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 EYEWITNESS TRAVEL

costa rica

raiNforEst • fiEstas
WiLDLifE • crafts
2
e
ll
ca

Exotic fLora • birDs

bEacHEs • NatioNaL ParKs
sPorts • voLcaNoEs • maPs
tHE GUiDEs tHat sHoW YoU WHat
otHErs oNLY tELL YoU
EYEWITNESS TRAVEL

COSTA RICA
 EYEWITNESS TRAVEL

COSTA RICA
MAIN CONTRIBUTOR: CHRISTOPHER P. BAKER
 MANAGING EDITOR Aruna Ghose
ART EDITOR Benu Joshi
SENIOR EDITOR Rimli Borooah
SENIOR DESIGNER Priyanka Thakur
EDITOR Ankita Awasthi
DESIGNER Shruti Singhi
SENIOR CARTOGRAPHER Uma Bhattacharya
CARTOGRAPHER Kunal Kumar Singh
PICTURE RESEARCHER Taiyaba Khatoon
DTP COORDINATOR Shailesh Sharma
DTP DESIGNER Vinod Harish
MAIN CONTRIBUTOR
Christopher P. Baker
PHOTOGRAPHERS Playa Chiquita, the Caribbean
Jon Spaull, Linda Whitwam
ILLUSTRATORS
P. Arun, Ashok Sukumaran, T. Gautam Trivedi, Mark Warner CONTENTS
Reproduced by Colourscan (Singapore)
LONDON, NEW YORK,
Printed and bound in China by AND
L. Rex
DELHIPrinting Co. Ltd
MELBOURNE, MUNICH
www.dk.com
INTRODUCING
First American Edition 2005
10 11 12 13 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 COSTA RICA
Published in the United States by
DK Publishing, 375 Hudson Street, DISCOVERING COSTA
New York, New York 10014
RICA 8
Reprinted with revisions 2008, 2010
Copyright © 2005, 2010 Dorling Kindersley Limited, London
A Penguin Company PUTTING COSTA RICA
ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. WITHOUT LIMITING THE RIGHTS UNDER COPYRIGHT ON THE MAP 12
RESERVED ABOVE, NO PART OF THIS PUBLICATION MAY BE REPRODUCED, STORED
IN OR INTRODUCED INTO A RETRIEVAL SYSTEM, OR TRANSMITTED, IN ANY FORM,
OR BY ANY MEANS (ELECTRONIC, MECHANICAL, PHOTOCOPYING, RECORDING, OR
A PORTRAIT OF
OTHERWISE) WITHOUT THE PRIOR WRITTEN PERMISSION OF BOTH THE COPYRIGHT COSTA RICA 14
OWNER AND THE ABOVE PUBLISHER OF THIS BOOK
PUBLISHED IN GREAT BRITAIN BY DORLING KINDERSLEY LIMITED. COSTA RICA THROUGH
A CATALOG RECORD FOR THIS BOOK IS AVAILABLE FROM THE
LIBRARY OF CONGRESS.
THE YEAR 34
ISSN 1542 1554
ISBN 978-0-75666-201-1 THE HISTORY OF
Front cover main image: Nicoya Peninsula, COSTA RICA 40
Tortuga Island, Costa Rica

The information in this

DK Eyewitness Travel Guide is checked regularly.
Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date
as possible at the time of going to press. Some details, however,
such as telephone numbers, opening hours, prices, gallery hanging
arrangements and travel information are liable to change. The
publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences arising
from the use of this book, nor for any material on third party
websites, and cannot guarantee that any website address in this
book will be a suitable source of travel information. We value the
views and suggestions of our readers very highly. Please write to:
Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides,
A performance of traditional
Dorling Kindersley, 80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL, Great Britain.
dance near Cartago

Tropical rainforest in Parque Nacional Corcovado, Peninsula de Osa

 THE NORTHERN ZONE SURVIVAL GUIDE
144
PRACTICAL
THE CARIBBEAN 160 INFORMATION 256

THE SOUTHERN ZONE TRAVEL INFORMATION

174 264

TRAVELERS’ GENERAL INDEX

NEEDS 272

WHERE TO STAY 196 ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

284
WHERE TO EAT 220
PHRASE BOOK 286
SHOPPING IN COSTA
RICA 238
COSTA RICA AREA
BY AREA
COSTA RICA AT A
GLANCE 50

SAN JOSÉ 52

THE CENTRAL
HIGHLANDS 80 Traditional carved and
painted Bribri gourd
THE CENTRAL PACIFIC
AND SOUTHERN ENTERTAINMENT IN
NICOYA 106 COSTA RICA 244

GUANACASTE AND OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES

NORTHERN NICOYA 120 AND SPECIALTY Fresh produce at the Santa Cruz
VACATIONS 248 market, Guanacaste

Exquisite orchid

Teatro Nacional
(see pp60–61)
INTRODUCING
COSTA RICA

DISCOVERING COSTA RICA 811

PUTTING COSTA RICA ON THE MAP 1213
A PORTRAIT OF COSTA RICA 1433
COSTA RICA THROUGH THE YEAR 3439
THE HISTORY OF COSTA RICA 4047
8 I N T R O D U C I N G C O S T A R I C A

D I S C O V E R I N G C O S TA R I C A
C osta Rica can be divided
into seven regions, corres-
ponding to well-defined
geographic criteria. The capital,
San José, occupies a broad valley
Nicoya are framed by volcanoes and,
to the west, by gorgeous beaches.
Northward, the land slopes down
to the sprawling lowlands of the
Northern Zone. The Caribbean’s
enfolded by the mountains of the coastal plains are unique for
Central Highlands. The Central their African culture and
Pacific and Southern Nicoya Macaw made endless beaches, while the
region is a transition zone of wood rugged Souther n Zone is
between a dry ecosystem and a covered in dense rainforest. Below is
humid one. To the northwest, the dry an overview of the distinctive
plains of Guanacaste and Northern highlights of each region.
and shop for quality arts
and crafts – the Centro
Comercial El Pueblo (see
p241) is recommended.
San José has many gourmet
dining options. Take your
pick from fine restaurants
that span the globe. La
Cocina de Leña (see p224)
offers great traditional Costa
Rican cuisine, with an
ambience to match.

Centro Costarricense de Ciencias y Cultura, San José 5)&
$&/53"-

)*()-"/%4
Correos (see pp58–9) are
SAN JOSÉ close at hand. The small t
4DFOJD
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squares that anchor the city t
%SJWFVQ
WPMDBOPFT
t
'BTDJOBUJOH
NVTFVNT core can also be taken in. t
&YIJMBSBUJOH
XIJUFXBUFS

t
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t
5PQOPUDI
EJOJOH to the Museo Nacional and t
$IBSNJOH
DPVOUSZ
JOOT
t
4QMFOEJE
TIPQQJOH Parque Nacional (see p70),
and to exploring Barrio Amón With its fabulous scenery,
A large, bustling conurbation (see p67) and the Centro charming towns, and colonial
with few historical buildings, Costarricense de Ciencias churches, the Central High-
San José does not have many y Cultura (see pp72–3). If lands region is tailor-made
sights of interests: two days time remains, check out for scenic drives. It offers
are sufficient for exploring the artwork at the Museo de delightful touring through
the city. Most attractions are Arte Costarricense (see p74) coffee fincas (farms) and
concentrated downtown
within walking distance of
one another in the compact
city core. With fine hotels for
every budget, the city center
is easily accessed on foot,
while the taxi system proves
efficient. Some localities can
be dangerous (see p270), but
police patrol the tourist areas.
One day should be spent
concentrating on San José’s
Museo del Oro Precolombino
(see pp62–3) and Museo de
Jade (see p67), as well as the
5FBUSP
/BDJPOBM (see pp60–61),
Costa Rica’s Neoclassical archi-
tectural gem. The Mercado
Central and Edificio de 3BGUJOH
EPXO
POF
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Ceramic wall mural in San José’s Barrio Amón created by local artist Fernando Matamoros
 D I S C O V E R I N G C O S T A R I C A 9

lush valleys, culminating atop

towering volcanoes. Two
active volcanoes are accessed
by paved roads that lead
through lush cloud forest to
the crater rims. Encompassed
within Poás and *SB[Þ

National Parks (see p90 and
p103), these volcanoes offer
superb opportunities for
hiking and birding, as do
relatively hard-to-access
Turrialba National Park (see
p103) and the rugged trails
of Braulio Carrillo and
Tapantí-Macizo National
Parks (see p91 and p101).
Wildlife is also displayed at
several sights near Alajuela
(see p84). Particularly recom-
mended are the Butterfly
Farm, Zoo Ave (see p84),
INBioparque (see p92) and
the World of Snakes (see p86).
Heredia (see p92) makes
a good base for exploring 5IF
CMVF
FYQBOTF
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(VMG
PG
/JDPZB
the coffee country, including
a visit to the Doka Estate and pre-Columbian site, and also 5PSUVHB (see pp110–11),
Café Britt (see p90 and p92) to a base for exciting rafting on offshore from Curú, is an
see how Costa Rica’s splendid the Reventazón and Pacuare idyllic escape that plays
coffees are produced. 4BSDIÓ Rivers (see p102). host to boat excursions
(see p86) – a must-visit Four days should prove departing the port town
center of crafts – lies along sufficient, although a week Puntarenas. Youthful travel-
an exquisite drive taking in would be required to explore ers are drawn to the tiny
Grecia (see p86) and Zarcero in-depth. Convoluted roads community of Montezuma
(see p87), known for their and lack of road signs can and the surfers’ haven of
metal church and topiary make for frustrating touring. .BMQBÓT (see p112), which
respectively. Some of the However, a large choice of enjoy spectacular settings
best scenery lies along the appealing boutique hotels, along rugged shorelines.
3PVUF
PG
UIF
4BJOUT (see p97), some set amid coffee estates, Popular with surfers, the
while east from San José, a makes up for this. beach resort town of Jacó
separate drive leads through (see p114) boasts casinos,
the Orosi Valley (see p98), nightclubs, and a range of
revealing some fine colonial 5)&
$&/53"-
1"$*'*$
hotels. Immediately north,
churches. Nearby, Turrialba "/%
4065)&3/
/*$0:" Parque Nacional Carara (see
(see p101) is a gateway p114) extends inland from
to Monumento Nacional t
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the coastal highway. Excur-
(VBZBCP (see pp104–105), Antonio sions, including crocodile
the nation’s foremost t
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t
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5PSUVHB p115), are offered from Jacó.
t
5ISJMMJOH
DSPDPEJMF
TBGBSJT Explore the forests of the
rugged coastal mountains at
With two of the nation’s most the Rainmaker Conservation
popular and easily accessed Project (see p115).
national parks, and a fistful Most travelers in this
of other coastal wildlife region head for the Parque
reserves, this region appeals Nacional Manuel Antonio
most strongly to wildlife (see pp118–19), accessed
lovers. Refugio Nacional de via the sportfishing town
Vida Silvestre Curú (see p110) of Quepos (see p116). This
and Reserva Natural Absoluta lovely park combines superb
Cabo Blanco (see p112), both beaches with a coral reef,
compact reserves along the fabulous wildlife viewing
shores of Southern Nicoya, along easily accessed trails,
Picturesque terraced farmland in offer diverse habitats and and some of the finest
UIF
$FOUSBM
)JHIMBOET a plethora of wildlife. *TMB
hotels in the country.
10 I N T R O D U C I N G C O S T A R I C A

Tropical dry forest in Guanacaste’s Parque Nacional Palo Verde, which boasts diverse habitats

of Guaitíl (see p143). The are concentrated in two

GUANACASTE AND Nicoya Peninsula is known distinct regions centered on
NORTHERN NICOYA for its profusion of beaches. the towns of La Fortuna and
Playas del Coco and Puerto Viejo de Sarapiquí.
• Scintillating beaches Flamingo (see p136) have Bustling La Fortuna (see
• Exciting horseback rides great scuba diving and p148) is the gateway to
• Mysterious cloud forests sportfishing. Tamarindo (see Parque Nacional Volcán
• Rare dry forest reserves p136) is the most developed Arenal (see p149), and offers
resort, while nesting marine several dozen lodges, most
The most diverse of Costa turtles can be spotted at with vistas of the soaring
Rica’s regions combines Playa Grande (see p136) and volcano that erupts almost
montane cloud forests and Ostional (see p140). daily. Activities such as
lowland dry forests – both spelunking in the Cavernas
full of wildlife – with lovely de Venado and superb bird-
beaches. At least one week THE NORTHERN ZONE ing at Refugio Nacional de
is needed to explore this Vida Silvestre Caño Negro
region, with two weeks • Volcán Arenal (see p154) lie close at hand.
required for a full tour. • Active adventures Soaking in the thermal
The key destinations are • Fabulous bird-watching waters at Tabacón (see p148)
connected by regional air • Centro Neotrópico is a great experience, as is
services. Exploring is easy SarapiquíS a ride on the Arenal Aerial
overland, with main sights Tram (see p149), which
accessed by spur roads that With Costa Rica’s most active combines excitement with
branch off the Pan-American volcano, an A–Z of active grand views of both the
Highway. However, a 4WD adventures, and a choice of volcano and of Lake Arenal
is recommended, not least to nature lodges and rewarding (see pp150–52), popular with
reach Monteverde (see birding, the Northern Zone is windsurfers and anglers.
pp124–8), acclaimed for its a booming latecomer to the Farther east, Puerto Viejo
cloud forest reserves. Farther tourist scene. The attractions de Sarapiquí (see p156) is a
north, Parque Nacional departure point for nature
Rincón de la Vieja (see p132) excursions on the Sarapiquí
offers spectacular hiking, as and San Juan Rivers. A short
well as horseback riding and distance away are eminent
mountain biking at ranches rainforest reserves such as
that double as rustic hotels. Selva Verde (see p156), Rara
Situated on the slopes Avis (see p159), and Tirim-
of Volcán Orosi, Parque bina (see p155). Adjoining
Nacional Santa Rosa (see Tirimbina is an excellent
pp134–5) is a dry forest educational facility, Centro
reserve where wildlife is Neotrópico SarapiquíS
easily seen. Although not as (see p155), which is dedi-
accessible as some other cated to a celebration of
parks, Santa Rosa is well pre-Columbian and contem-
worth the effort. In contrast, porary indigenous cultures.
Parque Nacional Palo Verde Heavy rainfall is possible
(see p130) has wetlands at any time of year. A 4WD
unrivaled for birding. is essential for successful
Chorotega Indian traditions Tabacón Hot Springs Resort and touring. Local airlines fly
live on in the potters’ hamlet Spa, Northern Zone to La Fortuna.
 D I S C O V E R I N G C O S T A R I C A 11

THE CARIBBEAN

t
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The Caribbean offers three

of Costa Rica’s premier rain-
forest reserves, plus splendid
sportfishing and a uniquely
laid-back ambience deriving
from its Afro-Caribbean
culture. The heritage is most
colorfully alive in the village .BOHSPWF
TXBNQ
BU
1VFSUP
+JNÏOF[
TPVUIFSO
$PTUB
3JDB
of $BIVJUB (see p170), where
spicy Caribbean dishes are nation. A minimum three-day terrain, requires a 4WD for
served at rough-hewn restau- stay is suggested – longer if travelers exploring on their
rants that reverberate to the you wish to combine own. Come prepared for high
sounds of Bob Marley. Steps Tortuguero with Cahuita and humidity and heavy rain.
away is 1BSRVF
/BDJPOBM
Puerto Viejo. Drawbacks to Inland, the Talamancas offer
$BIVJUB (see p170), with trails the area include the heavy a challenge to hikers. While
that include a snorkeling year-round rainfall. Be aware well-developed trails lead to
trail. Farther south, Puerto that drugs are a problem in the summit of Cerro Chirripó
Viejo (see p172) appeals to coastal communities, and you (see p181) from San Gerardo
lovers of surf and an offbeat may find that locals exhibit, at de Rivas (see p178), access
lifestyle. Its beaches unfurl times, a surliness not found into the more remote portions
southward, culminating in elsewhere in Costa Rica. of the mountains to the south
3FGVHJP
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EF
7JEB
is along seldom-trodden trails
4JMWFTUSF
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(see p172), good for hikes, THE SOUTHERN ZONE -B
"NJTUBE (see p179).
turtle-watching, and trips in Farther south is -BT
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search of dolphins and t 1BSRVF
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manatees. Excursions inland $PSDPWBEP a superb destination for
provide an opportunity to t *OUSJHVJOH
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birders and individuals with
learn about the lifestyles of SFTFSWFT a botanical interest. Nearby,
indigenous communities t $IBMMFOHJOH
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(see p173). t 6OTVSQBTTFE
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reserves are opening up to
The highlight of any EJWJOH the tourist trade (see p184).
Caribbean itinerary is a visit The rugged coast is known
to 1BSRVF
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5PSUVHVFSP Encompassing Costa Rica’s for high surf and some splen-
(see p167), where exploring premier rainforests and most did diving. %PNJOJDBM and
by boat unveils a rainforest rugged mountains, this region, Zancudo (see p182 and p192)
menagerie unsurpassed in the with its exceedingly diverse are popular surfing beaches,
while 1BSRVF
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whale-watching possibilities.
Whale- and dolphin-viewing
boat excursions are popular
from Bahía Drake (see p190),
where many lodges specialize
in scuba diving.
The big draw is 1BSRVF

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p191), which offers hiking
and superb wildlife-viewing.
Linked by water-taxi to the
sportfishing town of Golfito
(see p192), 1VFSUP
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Corcovado. To the southwest
is the hard-to-reach UNESCO
World Heritage Site *TMB
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12 I N T R O D U C I N G C O S T A R I C A

Putting Costa Rica on the Map

Washed by the waters of the Caribbean Sea and
Pacific Ocean, the republic of Costa Rica lies wholly
within the tropics, between 8 and 11 degrees north
of the Equator. Bordered by Nicaragua to the north
and tapering gradually southward to Panama,
it covers 19,650 sq miles (50,900 sq km). Much LAGO DE
N I C A R A G U A Isla
of this extremely mountainous country is Mancarrón
uninhabited and overlaid with several types San
of tropical forest; almost one-third of the Carlos b

La Cruz b 4
land area is protected within reserves. Isla Bolaños Los Chiles b

Administratively, the country is divided

into seven provinces and 81 cantones 1
Aguas
(counties). It has a population of 3.9 Islas Claras
million, heavily concentrated in the Murciélagos b

Central Highlands, with some 350,000 Golfo de

people living in the capital, San José. Papagayo b
Liberia 6

Daniel bici

o
21 Oduber Laguna

Cor
Rí de Arenal
o

Río
Tem 1 b
pi s b Tilarán
Cañas

que
0 km 50 Tamarindo b
GU ANACASTE Las
b
b
Juntas
Santa Cruz
0 miles 50
Nicoya b Isla Chira 1
Miramar
s ar a

Golfo b

21
de Nicoya
No

Ostional b Rí o
b b Puntarenas 17
Nosara Carmona b

b
Sámara
PUNT AREN AS
Isla
Tortuga
b

Malpaís b
Montezuma

Isla Cabo
Blanco

PA C I F I C O C E A N
Aerial view of the capital city, San José

ISLA DEL COCO Isla Manuelita

Isla Pajara Bahía Chatham
Bahía Weston Punta Paceco
Isla Cascara
Isla Conico
Bahía Wafer

Cabo Barreto
Cabo
Punta Atrevida
Maria Parque Nacional
Isla del Coco

Cabo Lionel Isla Montagne

Isla Dos
Amigos Isla Juan Bautista
Bahía Yglesias
Punta Turrialba Isla Muela 0 km 3
Cabo
Dampier 0 miles 3 Isla del Coco
(310 miles)
 P U T T I N G C O S T A R I C A O N T H E M A P 13

UNITED STATES OF AMERICA

ATLANTIC OCEAN

b Nueva Guinea Gulf of

MEXICO
Mexico

CUBA
NICARAG UA HAITI
DOMINICAN
REPUBLIC
BELIZE

GUATEMALA
b Punta Gorda HONDURAS Caribbean Sea
EL SALVADOR
NICARAGUA

COSTA
RICA PANAMA
VENEZ UELA
PACIFIC
Isla Del Coco
OCEAN COLOMBIA

ío
R

Sa
nJ
35 ECUADOR B R AZ IL
uan

PERU
uan
a nJ Barra del
Rí oS b

an s Colorado
o S C arl o rip
hir o
Rí

ALAJUELA HEREDIA
C
Río

o
or

Puerto Viejo Tortuguero

R ío T

4 b

de Sarapiquí
CARIBBEAN SEA
b b
La Fortuna
4
LIMÓN
b
Ciudad Quesada
(San Carlos) Guápiles
Zarcero
b
b

32
Sacramento Siquirres
n

Sarchí e
b
b
az b
Revent

3 Alajuela
b
Heredia
b
32
b
Puerto Limón
SAN JOSÉ o
Rí

Juan
23 e Santamaría Cartago ano
r and b
b 10 an
B

Turrialba 36
G

Río
Río

b
Tapantí
b Orosi b
LIMÓN
Tárcoles SAN CART AGO Cahuita b
Puerto Viejo de
JOSÉ Bribri Talamanca
2 b
b

Jacó Manzanillo
b

34 b
CO STA b

San Gerardo
de Dota R ICA
San Isidro de
n

Quepos b
re

El General
Río U

34 b
e
rib
2 Te
Río
b Río Buenos
Dominical Gen
er Aires
34 a l b

PA NA M A
Palmar
Norte
Isla b
Río Colon
Boca Brava
San
2
Isla Violin Vito
p
e

ier PUNTA RENAS b

S

R ío
KEY Bahía Drake b
Isla del Rincón Golfito 14 b Ciudad Neily
International airport Caño b
b
Coto 47
Domestic airport Puerto b b Zancudo David
b
Jiménez Golfo
b

Ferry La Cuesta
Dulce
Pan-American Highway
Major road

International border

Provincial border

Ferry route
 I N T R O D U C I N G C O S T A R I C A 15

A P O R T R A I T O F C O S TA R I C A

D
ominated by mountain ranges and verdant forests, gouged
by fertile valleys, and flanked by lovely beaches and the
ocean, Costa Rica is undoubtedly one of the most beau-
tiful places on earth. Vivid colors of nature, a virtually unmatched
range of outdoor activities, friendly, hospitable people, and the
subtle charm of an essentially rustic lifestyle – all combine to make
the country one of the world’s favorite tropical holiday destinations.

Straddling the Meso-American Central American nations, with

isthmus at the juncture of the Spanish influence being
North and South America, all-encompassing and indige-
this diminutive nation is nous culture having little
barely 300 miles (480 km) i m p a c t . H o w e v e r, n o n -
north to south and 175 miles Spanish cultures exist in a few
(280 km) at its widest point, Costa Rica’s official pockets, such as the Jamaican
near the Nicaraguan border. emblem ethos of the Caribbean coast.
Occupying one of the Another distinctive feature is
world’s most geologically unstable the nation’s conservation ethic, as evi-
areas, the country is subjected to denced by its nationwide network of
powerful tectonic forces that trigger wildlife parks and refuges, which
earthquakes and punctuate the land- embraces about 30 percent of its area,
scape with smoldering volcanoes. more than any other nation on earth.
With scores of micro-climates, the
emerald landscape is a quiltwork of CONSERVING NATURE’S WONDERS
12 different life zones, from coastal The greatest appeal of Costa Rica is
wetlands to subalpine grassland. its astonishing wealth of flora and
Costa Rica is characterized by a fauna, protected within more than
homogeneity of culture unique among 190 biological reserves, national parks,

A farmhouse on the flanks of Volcán Arenal, in the Northern Zone

A milkman pushing his cart along a street in one of San José’s residential districts
16 I N T R O D U C I N G C O S T A R I C A

Columbus stepped ashore in 1491, are

increasing in area once again.
Fortunately, there are several conser-
vation organizations that are unstinting
in their efforts to save flora and fauna.
Also, the government’s focus on inte-
grating protected regions by grouping
them into 11 distinct regional units
within a Sistema Nacional de Areas de
Conservación (National System of
Regional Conservation Areas) is a giant
step in the right direction.
The guanacaste tree, Costa Rica’s national tree
THE GOVERNMENT
wildlife refuges, and similar entities. A democratic republic, Costa Rica has a
The Reserva Natural Absoluta Cabo government headed by an elected
Blanco was created as the first pro- president, who is assisted by two vice
tected reserve in the country in 1963. presidents and a cabinet of 17 members.
Since then, more parks and reserves The Asamblea Legislativa (Legislative
have been set up every year. Assembly) is a single chamber of 57
However, destruction of the natural popularly elected diputados (deputies),
habitat continues, even in some pro- limited to two terms. The president
tected regions. The park service is appoints regional governors, who pre-
understaffed and lacks the funds to side over the seven provinces of San
compensate owners for expropriated José, Alajuela, Cartago, Guanacaste,
land. Thus, the wetlands of Refugio Heredia, Limón, and Puntarenas.
Nacional de Vida Silvestre Caño Two parties dominate the political
Negro are imperiled by landowners scene and have traditionally alternated
reclaiming precious marshlands for in power with each election. The
farming. Animal populations are social-democratic Partido de Liberación
declining in Parque Nacional Manuel Nacional (National Liberation Party)
Antonio due to loss of habitat. Illegal champions welfare programs, while the
hunting menaces the populations of conservative Partido de Unidad Social
jaguars, tapirs, and wild pigs in Parque Cristiana (Social Christian Unity Party)
Nacional Corcovado. Logging, how- is pro-business. All citizens between 18
ever, has been tamed and forests, and 70 years of age are mandated to
which diminished by two-thirds since vote. A Special Electoral Tribunal

The famed Reserva Biológica Bosque Nuboso Monteverde (Monteverde Cloud Forest Biological Reserve)
 A P O R T R A I T O F C O S T A R I C A 17

appointed by the Supreme Court over-

sees the integrity of elections.
Costa Rica declared neutrality in 1949
and has no official army, navy, or air
force, although branches of the police
force have a military capability. Citizens
proudly proclaim that since the late
19th century, only two brief periods of
violence have marred the nation’s
democratic development, and the coun-
try has avoided the bloodshed that has
afflicted neighboring countries. How-
ever, it has not been aloof from Latin
American issues: in 1987, President
Oscar Arias won the Nobel Peace Prize
for brokering peace on the isthmus.

THE ECONOMY
Costa Rica’s thriving economy is today Papayas being sorted for sale in a town market
powered mainly by tourism. With its
stupendous landscape of mountains, THE PEOPLE
beaches, and forests full of exotic flora Costa Ricans are known as Ticos
and fauna, the country offers opportu- because of their habitual use of this term
nities for outdoor life and active as a diminutive – for instance,
adventures. The focus is on “ momentico” f o r “ j u s t a
ecotourism, promoted by the moment,” instead of the usual
Instituto Costarricense de “momentito.” The majority
Turismo (Costa Rica Tourism are descendants of early
Institute) under the advertising Spanish settlers. Indigenous
slogan of “Costa Rica – No peoples account for a fraction
Artificial Ingredients.” Another of the pop ulation, and live
factor aiding tourism is the Resident in Costa tucked away in remote reserves.
country’s reputation for stabil- Rican colors Concentrated on the Caribbean
ity in an area rent by political coast, Afro-Caribbeans are main-
upheavals. Well-planned specialized ly descended from Jamaicans who came
lodges, large hotels, and beach resorts as contract labor in the 19th century,
serve the spectrum from budget to and form a large community. A sizeable
deluxe markets.
San José is one of
Central America’s
major financial centers
w i t h a b u rg e o n i n g
high-technology indus-
trial sector. Beyond the
capital, the country is
still largely agricultural.
Land ownership is
widespread, except in
Guanacaste, where
large-scale cattle fincas
(farms) prevail. Coffee
and bananas are Costa
Rica’s two most impor-
tant crops. The bustling capital city, San José
18 I N T R O D U C I N G C O S T A R I C A

Traditional oxcart used for farming in the Costa Rican countryside

Chinese population also exists, mainly especially in poorer areas and among
in the Caribbean province of Limón. In the indigenous communities.
recent years, tens of thousands of North The country has the highest rate of
Americans and people of other nation- literacy and life expectancy in Latin
alities have settled in Costa Rica, drawn America. Internet access is relatively
partly by its fabulous climate. widespread, and mobile telephone
About eight out of ten Costa Ricans are use is the highest in Central America.
nominally Catholic, and a significant Roads and electricity extend into even
portion of the population are regular the most remote backwaters, and
practitioners of the faith. The most ven- today few communities are entirely
erated figure is La Negrita, the country’s isolated from the modern world. In
patron saint, who is believed to grant fact, Josefinos (residents of San José)
miracles. Although proselytizing is ille- lead a typically modern urban lifestyle,
gal, the influence of evangelical and the capital has a well-developed
Christians has grown in recent years, and entrepreneurial middle-class.
However, old traditions survive in the
countryside, where a peasant lifestyle
still prevails, the horse is the main
form of transport, and oxen are used
as day-to-day beasts of burden.
Life revolves around the family – usu-
ally headed by a matriarch – and an
immediate circle of compadres (friends
and fellow workers). Individuals tend
to guard their personal lives closely
and are more inclined to invite
acquaintances to dine at restaurants
than to welcome them into their
homes. However, Ticos are a warm-
hearted people and always treat
strangers with great civility.
Costa Ricans are proud of their coun-
try’s neutrality and stable democracy.
Although a recent influx of immigrants
with “Indian” features from neigh-
boring countries has caused much
resentment, Ticos are generally a
Effigies carried along a street as part of Good Friday liberal, tolerant people with a concern
celebrations for societal harmony and welfare.
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