Bodice

Fitting
Guide
AN ESSENTIAL GUIDE FOR
SEWISTS TO ACHIEVE A
GREAT FIT
TAB L E O F CO N T ENTS
GETTING STARTED 4
Choosing a Size 5
Understanding Ease 7

DARTS BASICS 8
BUST ADJUSTMENTS 13
Small Bust Adjusment (SBA) 14
Full Bust Adjusment (FBA) 16

LENGTH AND WIDTH ADJUSTMENTS 18

Torso 20
Waist 22
Shoulders 24
Neckline 30
Back 32
Armscye 39
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BODICDE FITTING GUIDE

W
hen making fitted and semi-fitted
dresses and jumpsuits, ensuring the
bodice fits well is one of the biggest
steps to ensuring a beautiful and successful
garment. This guide is here to help you identify
and solve common bodice fitting issues, and
teach you how to make the proper adjustments
to get your bodice fitting you just right. As
always, we strongly suggest you make a quick
muslin of any fitted or semi-fitted garment to
help you identify fit issues before you cut into
your final fabric.

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PATTERNS WITH DARTS 3

BODICDE FITTING GUIDE

AZURE BELLADONE HYSOPE

SUREAU CIELO
COQUELICOT JO

EUCALYPTUS MYOSOTIS PAULINE

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GETTING
STARTED
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BODICDE FITTING GUIDE

CHOOSING A SIZE
As always, the first step is taking Note that some alterations can
a few key measurements that be done before you even cut
you can use to compare to the your fabric! Examples of these
size chart of the pattern you are alterations are figuring out if your
working with. We’ll work under apex coincides with the pattern
the assumption that you have apex, lengthening the pattern,
figured out any details you can grading between sizes and doing
about the body type that the a full or small bust adjustment. As
pattern company is drafting you become more experienced
for and have compared the sewing your own garments
measurements to figure out the and work with different pattern
best size for you. On the next companies, you will get to know
page is our Closet Core and your body better, and you will
Deer&Doe size charts in case recognize the alterations you
you want to know details of require most often.
the proportions we draft for. As
always, we strongly suggest you
make a quick muslin of any fitted
or semi-fitted garment to help
you identify fit issues before you
cut into your final fabric.

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CLOSET CORE SIZE CHART 6
0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20

BODICDE FITTING GUIDE

31" 32" 33" 34" 35" 36.5" 38" 40" 42" 44" 46"
FU LL BUS T
79 cm 81 cm 84 cm 86 cm 89 cm 93 cm 97 cm 102 cm 107 cm 112 cm 117 cm

29" 30" 31" 32" 33" 34.5" 36" 38" 40" 42" 44"
H IGH BUS T
74 cm 76 cm 79 cm 81 cm 84 cm 88 cm 91 cm 97 cm 102 cm 107 cm 112 cm
24" 25" 26" 27" 28" 29.5" 31" 33" 35" 37" 39"
WAIS T
61 cm 64 cm 66 cm 69 cm 71 cm 75 cm 79 cm 84 cm 89 cm 94 cm 99 cm
33" 34" 35" 36" 37" 38.5" 40" 42" 44" 46" 48"
H IP
84 cm 86 cm 89 cm 91 cm 94 cm 98 cm 102 cm 107 cm 112 cm 117 cm 122 cm
14 16 18 20 22 24 26 28 30 32
42" 44" 46" 48" 50" 52" 54" 56" 58" 60"
FU LL BUS T
107 cm 112 cm 117 cm 122 cm 127 cm 132 cm 137 cm 142 cm 147 cm 152 cm
38" 40" 42" 44" 46" 48" 50" 52" 54" 56"
H IGH BUS T
97 cm 102 cm 107 cm 112 cm 117 cm 122 cm 127 cm 132 cm 137 cm 142 cm
35" 37" 39" 41" 43" 45" 47" 49" 51" 53"
WAIS T
89 cm 94 cm 99 cm 104 cm 109 cm 114 cm 119 cm 124 cm 130 cm 135 cm
45" 47" 49" 51" 53" 55" 57" 59" 61" 63"
H IP
114 cm 119 cm 124 cm 130 cm 135 cm 140 cm 145 cm 150 cm 155 cm 160 cm

DEER&DOE SIZE CHART

34 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 52
31.5" 33" 34.5" 36.25" 37.75" 39.5" 41" 42.5" 44" 45.5"
FU L L BUS T
80 cm 84 cm 88 cm 92 cm 96 cm 100 cm 104 cm 108 cm 112 cm 116 cm

29.5" 31" 32.5" 38.25" 37.75" 39.5" 39" 40.5" 42" 43.5"
H IGH BUS T
75 cm 79 cm 83 cm 87 cm 91 cm 95 cm 99 cm 103 cm 107 cm 111 cm
23.5" 25.25" 26.75" 28.5" 30" 31.5" 33" 34.5" 36.25" 37.75"
WAIS T
60 cm 64 cm 68 cm 72 cm 76 cm 80 cm 84 cm 88 cm 92 cm 96 cm
33.75" 35.5" 37" 38.5" 40.25" 41.75" 43.25" 45" 46.5" 48"
H IP
86 cm 90 cm 94 cm 98 cm 102 cm 106 cm 110 cm 114 cm 118 cm 122 cm
46 48 50 52 54 56 58 60 62
41.25" 43.25" 45.75" 48" 50.5" 52.75" 55" 57.5" 59.75"
FU LL BUS T
105 cm 112 cm 117 cm 122 cm 128 cm 132 cm 140 cm 146 cm 152 cm

37.25" 39.25" 41.75" 44" 46.5" 48.75" 51" 53.5" 55.75"

H IGH BUS T
95 cm 100 cm 107 cm 112 cm 118 cm 122 cm 130 cm 136 cm 142 cm
35.5" 35.5" 37.75" 40.25" 42.5" 45" 47.25" 49.5" 52"
WAIS T
85 cm 90 cm 96 cm 102 cm 108 cm 114 cm 120 cm 126 cm 132 cm
43.75" 45.75" 48" 50.5" 52.75" 55" 57.5" 59.75" 62.25"
H IP
111 cm 116 cm 122 cm 128 cm 134 cm 140 cm 146 cm 152 cm 158 cm

Note: In the CCP 0-20 and DD 34-52 size ranges, we draft for a B cup, which means a 2" difference
between high and full bust measurements. In the CCP 14-32 and DD 46-62 size ranges, we draft for a D
cup, which means a 4" difference between high and full bust measurements.

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BODICDE FITTING GUIDE

UNDERSTANDING EASE With our patterns, we always
suggest choosing your size
Next, determine the fit intended
based on your measurements
by the designer. Is it meant to
rather than the final garment
be close-fitting with minimal
measurements so the pattern
ease? Or slightly looser and more
fits with the intended amount of
relaxed? If that’s not clear in the
wearing and design ease.
pattern description or photos,
take a look at the finished Here’s a helpful chart to help you
garment measurements. The identify the amount of ease a
difference between the body garment may have based on the
and final garment measurements difference between body and
in the bust, waist, and hip will garment measurements:
indicate how much ease is
intended.

BUST EASE PA N TS+ SK I RT E ASE

BLOUSE/ ST RID E
JACKETS COATS FU LL H I P WA I ST
DRESS LE NGT H

1" if hips are

FIT TED 3-4" 3.5-4.5" 5-7" 2-3" 1-2"
less than 37"

1.5" if hips are

S EMI-FITT ED 4-5" 4.5-5.5" 7-8" 3-4"
37-40"

LOOS E 1.5" if hips are

5-8" 5.5-10" 8-12" 4-6"
FITT IN G 37-40"

VERY LOOS E 2" if hips are

more than 8" more than 10" more than 12" more than 6"
FITT IN G 40" or more
Source: Craftsy w/ Linda Lee

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BASICS
DARTS
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WHAT ARE DARTS?

BODICDE FITTING GUIDE

MAKING DARTS WORK
Darts are a means to transition FOR YOU
from bigger to smaller parts of Depending on the difference
the body. They create shapes between the smaller and bigger
from a flat 2D pattern and tailor body part, more or less volume
volume. In bodices, darts can be will need to be created by the
found in many places depending dart. As a dart gets wider, it
on the designer’s intent. Most becomes harder to sew and
commonly they are found in press correctly, and the fabric
the side or waist seam pointing around it becomes more skewed,
towards the bust, but sometimes so it is recommended to divide a
they start at the shoulder seam, wide dart into two or more nar-
neckline or inside an armscye. rower darts.

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waistline
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Fre

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BODICDE FITTING GUIDE

Whether you are working with the overall fit and drape of the
one or multiple darts, they garment.
should always point to the full-
Please note that the drape of an
est part of the curved area. On
entire garment is significantly
the front bodice, darts should
influenced by how it hangs from
point towards your bust apex
the shoulders. Therefore, we
and should end 1”-2” (25-50 mm)
suggest taking a top-to-bottom
from the apex depending on the
approach. Start with the neckline
body size.
and the shoulders, as these are
Now that you have done some crucial fitting areas. Focusing on
basic fitting alterations, it’s time these areas first will influence
to cut your fabric and sew your the overall fit and drape of the
first muslin. In the following garment.
sections, we’ll discuss more
advanced alterations by analyz-
ing the wrinkles and fine-tuning
the fit of your bodice.

Note that the drape of an entire

garment is significantly influ-
enced by how it hangs from
the shoulders. Therefore, we
suggest taking a top-to-bottom
approach. Start with the neckline
and the shoulders, as these are
crucial fitting areas. Focusing on
these areas first will influence Mica Dress

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BODICDE FITTING GUIDE

FINDING YOUR BUST simply mark your apex (or the
APEX ON A SEWING fullest part of your bust) on the
PATTERN pattern tissue.

There are two ways to find YOUR

METHOD #2
bust apex and mark it on the
pattern. The first method works This method involves a bit more
best if you are working with work but may be more accurate.
pattern tissue. Here’s how to do it:

METHOD #1 1. From the top point of the

shoulder, measure your
Align the center front of the
Shoulder-to-Apex and your
bodice with the center of your
Apex-to-Apex measurement.
chest, and align the shoulder
point with your shoulder (you
may need to draw in the seam
allowances to do this). Next,

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BODICDE FITTING GUIDE

2. On your front pattern pieces, 4. Now that you have your bust
trace an arc (blue) with a apex located, compare it to
radius equal to the distance the bust apex on the pattern. If
between your neck point and they are more than 1/2" away
your apex. from each other, it is worth
manipulating the apex to
position it in the ideal place for
your body.

3. Starting at the center front,

draw a horizontal line that
is half of your Apex-to-Apex
measurement so it intersects
with the arc you just drew. You
just found the position of your
apex! Yippee!

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ADJUSTMENTS
BUST
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BODICDE FITTING GUIDE

SMALL BUST Solution:
ADJUSTMENT 1. Pinch out excess fabric
For removing more than 1/2" between the waist and the
(12.5 mm) of volume, you will armhole vertically on both
need a small bust adjustment sides. If the bodice is too long,
(SBA). To go in depth about SBAs, pinch out a horizontal line
see our exhaustive blog post. as well. Draw the following
lines on the front piece: L1
Symptom: The garment looks
from 1/3rd of the way up the
baggy across the bust, and the
armhole to the center front
bodice is too wide and long.
across the apex. L2 from the
Loose vertical folds form at
center of the dart to the apex.
the side along the bust area.
The front waistline may show a 2. Cut on L1 to the armhole and
horizontal fold. 1 overlap the lower
2 piece to re-
duce length.

1
1 2

3 2
4

3 4

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3. Cut on L2 to the apex and

BODICDE FITTING GUIDE

1 2 the center
sway the bottom of
piece back to remove width
until the center fronts are par-
allel.
1
4. The width of the dart will be
reduced. True the dart, the
2
center front, and the armscye.

3 4

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BODICDE FITTING GUIDE

LARGE BUST Solution:
ADJUSTMENT 1. Slash from the armhole to the
For adding more than 1/2" waistline crossing the apex,
(12.5 mm) of volume, you will need release the front waistline to
a full bust adjustment (FBA). To determine the volume required.
go into more depth about FBAs, Draw the following lines on the
see our exhaustive blog post. front piece: L1 From 1/3rd of
the way up the armhole to the
Symptom: There is tightness
center front across the apex. L2
around the bust. Horizontal
From the center of the dart to
wrinkles form between the
the apex.
breasts. Diagonal wrinkles appear
from under the arm towards the
1 2
bust. There is excess gaping
fabric at the front armhole. Front
waistline and hem hang higher 1

than the back. The side seam bows1 2

towards the front. 2

2. Cut on L1 to the armhole and

1

3 spread
on L2 to the apex and
the2 center lower piece to add
length, and width until the
center fronts are parallel, the
lower side piece will sway
3
accordingly. The width of

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BODICDE FITTING GUIDE

the dart will be increased, if it 3. True the dart, the center front,
becomes too wide, consider and the armscye.
dividing it.
3
2

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LENGTH
BUST

T IH
F
B OTED
T IBC
NED
ADJUSTMENTS
AND WIDTH

GTETPEFRR
IITNB
ADJUSTMENTS

TCION
EDSGISCGS
EUE IADMES

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BODICDE FITTING GUIDE

We all carry our weight in measurements on the pattern
different areas of our body. piece to your own for the back
Usually, our proportions differ and front waist length.
from those of a standardized
Similarly, it is necessary to
dress form. You might have
address width alterations before
experiences with ready-to-wear
cutting into your fabric to ensure
or patterns that are drafted
the pattern pieces accommodate
too short or too long for you,
you. Whether you find garments
or maybe you are wider or
too snug or too loose around
narrower in particular areas.
the bodice, understanding how
Off-the-rack garments often fall
to adjust width is key. In this
short when accommodating
case, modifying the bodice
these differences, but bespoke
width by grading to a larger
garments are tailored with care
or a smaller waist will ensure
to embrace every line and curve
your clothing fits comfortably
and contour of your unique body.
and complements your unique
If you know your torso is longer silhouette.
or shorter than most blocks
(we draft for a person with a
height of 5’-6”, for example) we
suggest you refer to the bodice
length alterations for the torso
in this guide so you know how
to alter your pattern pieces
before cutting into your fabric.
You may also compare vertical

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BODICDE FITTING GUIDE

LONG TORSO Solution: Slash and spread along
the lengthen/shorten line on the
Symptom: You have a long torso
pattern to extend the bodice the
or the bodice feels too short.
same amount for both front and
The waist of the garment is
back, keeping the center front/
sitting higher than the designer
grainline aligned. True/connect
intended.
the center front and side seams,
true waistline darts if applicable.

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SHORT TORSO Solution: On your muslin,
pinch out a tuck around
Symptom: You have a short torso
the entire waist area to
or the bodice feels long. Loose
determine the amount of
wrinkles appear around the waist
length to remove. Slash and
section.
overlap the bodice along the
lengthen/shorten line and
remove the desired amount
of length. Keep the center
front/grainline aligned. True
the center front and the side
seams, true waistline darts if
applicable.

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BODICDE FITTING GUIDE

WIDE WAIST Solution: Let out the side seams
on both sides. Grade to a larger
Symptom: The area around the
size between the underarm and
waist of the bodice is tight and
the waist as required. If there is
might creep up as you move.
an underarm dart, fold the dart
Tightness wrinkles appear below
closed before grading. True the
the underbust and around the
side seams. Pieces attached to
back.
the waist might also be affected.

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BODICDE FITTING GUIDE

NARROW WAIST Solution: Take in at the side
seams on both front and back.
Symptom: The garment looks
Grade to a smaller size between
baggy across the waistline. Loose
the underarm and the waist as
vertical folds form around the
required. If there is an underarm
waist in the front and back.
dart, fold the dart closed before
grading. True the side seams.
Pieces attached to the waist
might also be affected.

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BODICDE FITTING GUIDE

SLOPING SHOULDERS Solution:

Symptom: The armscye droops #1: Pinch the shoulder point as

or gapes. Wrinkles form needed to reduce wrinkles. Move
diagonally from shoulder to the shoulder point down by as
armhole and disappear when the much as you pinched. Draw a
shoulder point is pinched up. new shoulder line between the
Possible tightness underthe arm. new shoulder point and the side-
neck point. True the shoulder
seam.
OPTION 1
OPTION 1

OPTION 2
#2: If the underarm feels tight,
OPTION 2
draw a vertical line from mid-
point of shoulder and a horizontal
line 2” below the armhole notch.
Slash the front, the yoke, and
the back to create small cuts.
Overlap the pieces by moving
this section down. True the

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BODICDE FITTING GUIDE

bottom of the yoke and the top
of the back piece. Connect neck
point and shoulder point.

OPTION 2

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BODICDE FITTING GUIDE

SQUARE SHOULDERS The shoulder seam and neckline
are unsupported by the body
Symptom: The collar or shoulder
and may collapse. The neckline
bone slope is more horizontal
stands away from the neck and/
than the garment was drafted for
or horizontal wrinkles form across
and causes the armhole to shift
the upper front and back. The
upward. Tight diagonal wrinkles
bodice needs more fabric length
radiate from the shoulder to the
in the side seam.
bust, shoulder blade and biceps.
Solution:
OPTION 1
#1: Pinch the excess at the neck
point as needed to reduce
wrinkles. Move the shoulder point
up by as much as you pinched.
Draw a new shoulder line
between the new shoulder point
and the side-neck point. True the
shoulder seam.

OPTION
OPTION 2 1

OPTION 2
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BODICDE FITTING GUIDE

#2: If the side seam needs length,
move the shoulder point up by
as much as you pinched. Draw a
new shoulder line between the
new shoulder point and the side-
neck point. True the shoulder
seam.

OPTION 2

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BODICDE FITTING GUIDE

FORWARD SHOULDERS front and up at the back.

Symptom: The shoulders of the Retrace and true the shoulder

garment lie behind the shoulder seams. If the garment has
point. Loose wrinkles along the sleeves, move the sleeve notch
front armhole appear. Tight stress toward the front of the sleeve
wrinkles form between the back (not shown).
armhole and shoulder blade.
Wrinkles at the neckline and back
armholes; sleeves wrinkle and
feel uncomfortable.

Solution: The shoulder seam

needs to be moved down at the
front and up at the back by the
same amount. Shift the angle of
the shoulder seam down at the

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BODICDE FITTING GUIDE

NARROW SHOULDERS Solution: Draw a vertical line
from the mid-point of the
Symptom: The armhole seam
shoulder and a horizontal line
hangs too far past the shoulder
above the armhole notch. Slash
point. Loose vertical folds appear
to create small cuts. Overlap,
across the front and back chest.
moving the cut horizontally
The bodice needs less width
towards the center fold. Join
across the shoulders.
neck point and shoulder point.
True the armscye.

If the garment has sleeves,

the sleeve cap will need to be
retraced higher to reflect the
added ease on the armhole (not
shown).

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BODICDE FITTING GUIDE

NARROW NECKLINE Solution: #1: Move the high and
low shoulder points slightly
Symptom: The neckline feels
away from the center front and
too tight and doesn’t rest on
center back on the front and
the base of the neck. The bodice
back pieces. Ensure the armhole
might b pulled up. The front
circumference doesn’t change.
pieces sh`ow diagonal pulls and
horizontal folds may show at the #2: Trace a larger size neckline.
back.

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BODICDE FITTING GUIDE

WIDE NECKLINE Solution: #1: Move the high and
low shoulder points slightly
Symptom: The garment appears
closer to center front and center
too large. The neckline stands
back on the front and back
below the base of the neck and
pieces. Ensure the armhole
fits loosely (most commonly at
circumference doesn’t change.
the back). Vertical folds appear at
the front and back. #2: Trace a smaller size neckline.

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BODICDE FITTING GUIDE

ROUND UPPER BACK
traced at midpoint shoulder,
Symptom: The shoulder seam or refer to slouching alteration.
and front neck pull back, the
back neckline pulls down and
1 2
the waistline rises at the back.
Gaping at the back neckline and
wrinkles pulling the shoulders 1 2
back may also appear.

3
Slash the horizontal cut. Spread 4
the outer cut at the center back
pivoting towards the armhole
seam.
3 4
1 2

Solution: Draw a horizontal

line above the armhole notch,
and a line at a slight angle
from midpoint of neck to the
horizontal. If the fullness is more
prominent at the back shoulder
3
blades, the vertical line can be 4

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BODICDE FITTING GUIDE

Slash the vertical and make the
back edge parallel to the center
back (dotted line). A neckline
dart is created, making the dart
depth 3”- 4”.

3 4

Retrace and true the shoulder

seams and the armscye.

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BODICDE FITTING GUIDE

SLOUCHING BACK
Symptom: Symptoms are similar
to rounded upper back, but the
back is rounder between the
lower shoulder blades. The front
armhole position is high and the
front sleeves bunch under the
arm.

If the garment has a sleeve, slash

Solution: Slash a horizontal line
the sleeve cap and tilt the cap of
at armscye notches on front and
the armhole to spread the back
back pieces. Overlap the front
and back of the armhole, and
and spread the back. True the
overlap the front and the front
armscye.
armhole. True the armhole and
the sleeve (not shown).

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1 2

BODICDE FITTING GUIDE

ERECT BACK
Symptom: Excess fabric pools
across the upper back creating
loose horizontal wrinkles. Back

1
length from neck to waist is too
1 2 2
long.

Slash the diagonal and make

the back edge parallel to the
3 center back (dotted 4
line). Retrace
and true the neckline and the
armscye.

3 3 4 4

Solution: Pinch the excess fabric

on the upper back. Draw a
horizontal line above the armhole
notch, and a line at a slight angle
from mid-point of neck to that
line. To reduce the fullness at
the back shoulder blades, slash
and overlap the horizontal cut,
angling towards the center back.

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BODICDE FITTING GUIDE

SWAY BACK Solution: Pinch the excess
fabric on the lower back. Draw
Symptom: Excess fabric pools
a horizontal line above the back
across the waist center back
waist, slash and overlap the
creating loose horizontal folds.
lower section upwards pivoting
Back length from lower back is
at the side seam to reduce back
too long.
length. Retrace and true the
center back, the side seam and
the dart.

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BODICDE FITTING GUIDE

NARROW BACK Solution: Pinch the excess at
mid-shoulder blade. Cut the
Symptom: Excess fabric at the
back vertically starting at mid-
edges of the upper back, and it’s
shoulder. Cut horizontally 2”
not needed to move comfortably.
below the armscye. Pivot the cut
Loose vertical wrinkles form at
towards the center back. True
the sides. Check shoulder width
the shoulder seam and the side
before proceeding with this
seam.
alteration.

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BODICDE FITTING GUIDE

WIDE BACK Solution: Cut the pattern
horizontally 2” below the seam
Symptom: Fabric is tight
allowance, and vertically towards
between the armholes.
the mid-shoulder. Pivot the cut
Horizontal wrinkles appear across
at the shoulder seam to bring
the back. Check shoulder width
the armhole outward and add
before proceeding with this
fullness. True the shoulder seam
alteration.
and the side seam.

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BODICDE FITTING GUIDE

LOW ARMSCYE Solution: Slash a horizontal line
above the armhole notches, and
Symptom: The armhole position
across the front, and the back.
is too low and not sitting close
Overlap and true the armhole
enough to the armpit. Loose
and the sleeve. This alteration will
vertical underarm wrinkles may
affect the sleeve if there is one
appear. The waistline may fall
(not shown).
lower at the side.

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BODICDE FITTING GUIDE

HIGH ARMSCYE Solution: Slash a horizontal line
above the armhole notches, and
Symptom: The armhole
across the front, and the back.
position is too high and sitting
Spread and true the armhole. This
uncomfortably close to the
alteration will affect the sleeve if
armpit. Tight wrinkles appear
there is one (not shown).
under the armpit. The waistline
may fall high at the side.

TABLE O F CO N T E N T S