FLA301 COH Mudigere FLA505 (1+1) 2012-13
FLA301 COH Mudigere FLA505 (1+1) 2012-13
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Introduction
In the present scenario of perpetual demand for various modern flowers viz., Rose, Carnation, Gerberam Mums,
Anthurious and Orchids.
There is continuos shrinking of land holding every year drastically.
To overcome this problem and meet the consumers demand the protected cultivation is the best alternative for
using land and other resources more efficiently.
In protected structure, the natural environment is modified to suitable conditions for optimum plant growth to
provide quality products.
Hence, in tropical climate, Green house is an important place where the green house or shade-loving foliage
plants are kept.
Green house is an artificial constructed shade and covered structures of plastic film, which allow the solar
radiation to pass through but traps the thermal radiation emitted by plants inside and thereby provide favourable
climatic conditions for plant growth.
It is the ultra-mode device used for controlling temperature, humidity, light intensity, CO2 level inside if properly
constructed.
Keeping in view the availability of light and circulation of air, green house may also be used for growing orchids
both epiphytic and terrestrial types.
GREEN HOUSE
Greenhouse is a framed or inflated structure covered with transparent or translucent material large
enough to grow crops under partially or fully controlled environmental conditions to get optimum growth,
productivity and quality produce.
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GREENHOUSE EFFECT
The greenhouse effect refers to circumstances where the short wavelengths of visible light from the sun pass
through a transparent medium and are absorbed, but the longer wavelengths of the infrared re-radiation from
the heated objects are unable to pass through that medium.
The trapping of the long wavelength radiation leads to more heating and a higher resultant temperature.
Besides the heating of an automobile by sunlight through the windshield and the namesake example of heating
the greenhouse by sunlight passing through sealed, transparent windows, the greenhouse effect has been
widely used to describe the trapping of excess heat by the rising concentration of carbon dioxide in the
atmosphere.
The carbon dioxide strongly absorbs infrared and does not allow as much of it to escape into space.
A major part of the efficiency of the heating
of an actual greenhouse is the trapping of the air so
that the energy is not lost by convection.
Keeping the hot air from escaping out the
top is part of the practical "greenhouse effect", but it
is common usage to refer to the infrared trapping as
the "greenhouse effect" in atmospheric applications
where the air trapping is not applicable.
When sunlight hits the Earth's surface, the
incoming short wave radiation gets turned
into long wave infrared radiation that is reflected back into space.
One should plan before starting construction of greenhouse depending on the purpose, type of crop, crop
growth, quality requirements, market destination, demand, time of supply, quantity, type of business – retail or
wholesale, cut flower production, planting material, seed production etc.
Topography, drainage, ground slope, soil condition, temperature, relative humidity, wind velocity and direction,
rainfall, snow fall, irrigation facility, year round weather conditions etc.
Input availability, labour, equipments, transportation facilities, electricity/power supply etc.
Production area, sales area, storage, post harvest handling area, area for expansion, expertise, marketing etc.
Economic requirement, feasibility, profitability etc.
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East and south sun is excellent for the green house, which can remain open on both these sides, but it should be
shaded on the north and the west to protect from winds.
Construction: A plan should be prepared before constructing the green house together with plan of beds and
paths on the ground.
Selection of plastic film structure and roof slope
Use of proper controlled climatic condition
Area and Green house structure
Plant protection measures
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Styles
1. Quonset type – Also called arch roofed or hoop shaped
greenhouse. It is semicircular or arch shaped with medium to high
sidewall, most commonly constructed type for single span or multi
Lean to
Standard Peak
Arch Quonset span greenhouses.
2. Gable type – Also called angular or triangle type, wherein
the shape of the roof is in angular form with medium to high sidewalls.
Most suitable for temperate region for easy sliding or snowfall during
Multi Span / Ridge & Furrow
winter.
3. Trussed type – Similar to Quonset or Gable type but
provided with additional structural unit called trusses to the roof to strengthen the load of the frame.
4. Ground to ground or tunnel type – Semicircular shaped roof touching the ground on either side without any
sidewall or side screen for natural ventilation. Such structures are mostly used for propagation and raising plants
with small stature.
5. Lean to type – Greenhouse is said to be lean to type if it‟s one side especially, the northern side forms the
sidewall of the building and the roof is leaned to only one side.
6. Uneven span – If the span is uneven and not symmetric about its long axis then the structure is termed uneven
span.
III. BASED ON ENVIRONMENTAL CONTROL SYSTEM
1. Low-cost greenhouse/polyhouse
2. Medium-cost greenhouse/polyhouse:
Cooling pad is used for humidifying the air entering the polyhouse. The polyhouse frame and glazing material
have a life span of about 20 years and 2-3 years, respectively.
Hi-tech greenhouse/polyhouse
This type of greenhouse consists of
sensors, a computer and an operator.
The temperature, humidity and light
are automatically controlled.
These are indicated through sensors
or signal-receiver.
Sensor measures the variables, compare the measurement to a standard value and finally recommend to run the
corresponding device.
For example, temperature control system consists of temperature sensor, heating/cooling mechanism and
thermostat-operated fan.
Similarly, relative humidity is sensed through optical tagging devices.
Boiler operation, irrigation and misting systems are operated under pressure sensing system.
This modern structure is highly expensive, requiring qualified operators, maintenance, care and precautions.
b. Hot beds – If the greenhouses are artificially heated, they are called hot beds. Heating
is necessary in temperate regions where the temperature goes much below
0oC.
c. Other types – Greenhouses are also classified based on the use and purposes. It may be
retail or a wholesale greenhouse, greenhouses for academic or research
units, Public Park, instructional greenhouses etc.
b. Based on material used for covering – Before Second World War, most of greenhouses were constructed
using glass as the glazing material hence the term glasshouse and greenhouse became synonymous. With the
development of plastic films and rigid sheets began the era of plastic greenhouses. Polyethylene, PVC, acrylic,
polycarbonate, fiber glass and polyester are some of the plastic sheet materials in usage now days.
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2. Designing:
Designing of greenhouse depends upon the crop activity, weather conditions, environmental control
system used, type of construction material locally available etc. Thus, the greenhouse design becomes
more of a location and crop specific.
The greenhouse designing should be strong enough to withstand its load of the covering material,
intensity of rain, wind velocity, extreme local climatic conditions like snow, hail, frost etc.
Design should admit adequate solar radiation and the structure should require minimum energy for
maintaining the desired crop microclimate.
Design should be easy to operate, functional, allows planting of variety of crops, support the load of
internal service system, maximum longevity, easy to service, to cover and recover the covering material
and provide provisions for necessary changes in future.
The greenhouse structures are to be designed to take up various loads as per design loads prescribed
by the National Greenhouse Manufacturers Association (NGMA) of USA.
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iv. Snow load – The weight of the snow that forms vertical load applied to the horizontal position of the
greenhouse roof.
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b. Foundation – The foundation should be proper and able to take necessary load. The size of foundation may be
60cm x 60cm for the columns in cement concrete with sand, cement and jelly ratio of 1:2:4. The column should
also be covered with concrete of 15cm diameter upto a height of 60cm to avoid the rusting of the columns.
Foundations provide firm support to the hoops and to secure poly grip firmly. The foundation level should be at
same height at all places.
c. Hoops – Semicircular GI pipes or angles forms integral part of the greenhouse frame fixed to foundation poles
on both sides. The main roof structure placed at equidistance.
d. Ridge line – Ridge lines are necessary in order to keep the hoops at equidistance and to increase the structural
rigidity of the greenhouse structure, the hoops are inter connected with a ridge line. The number of ridgelines
depends on the width and length of the greenhouse structure.
e. Trusses – The trusses are the additional frame structure provided to roof structure to take the necessary loads.
The strength of the trusses depends on type of cover, width, dead and live load etc.
f. End frame – End frame are wooden or aluminum or steel structures to be fixed on both ends of the greenhouse
with a provision for a door and installation of environmental control equipments. End frames are provided with
lateral support to enhance the structural rigidity.
g. Doors – The size of the doors depends on the size of the greenhouse, for bigger greenhouses doors should be
sufficiently wide for taking tractor and other intercultural implements. The number and position of the doors
depends on orientation, operation, utility etc.
h. Poly grip assembly – To secure firmly polyethylene covering of the greenhouse to the foundation pipes/ridge
line. T-locks or the clips should be used to hold glazing to the structure or polythene films may be hold between
two GI angles fitted with bolt and nut.
i. Insect proof mesh – Fine plastic nets are used to cover all greenhouse openings/sidewall in order to prevent
insects from entering the greenhouse. 50 mesh nets are generally used refers to 50 plastic ropes per square
inch.
Table 1: Details of material requirement for construction of low cost (single span) greenhouse (size: 18.4m
x 5.5m = 100m2)
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Table 4: Details of material requirement for construction of low cost (multi span) Saw tooth type greenhouse
(size: 27m x 18.5m = 500m2)
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12. Practical experience – steps involved in the construction of a low cost greenhouse of
4m x 24m sizes in the field.
1. Mark 4m x 24m rectangle on the selected leveled site, preferably orienting the longer dimension in the East-West
direction. This rectangle will act as the floor plan of the greenhouse. Make sure that the two diagonal of the
rectangle are equal.
2. Mark four points on the four corners of the rectangle. Start from one corner point and move along the length of
the marked rectangle, marking a point at every one meter distance until reaching the other corner. The same
procedure is repeated on the other side of the rectangle.
3. Dig 30cm diameter pits of 60-75cm depths on all the marked points. There will be total of 50 pits on both the
parallel sides of the greenhouse floor, which will be a total of 24m long.
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4. Fix foundation pipes in the pit for 20-30cm and packed with concrete around the foundation and allow for curing
for 2-3 days. The height of the all foundation pipes above the ground level should be same at all the places.
Wherever poly grip assembling is used they are fixed to foundation pipe before concreting the pits.
5. After curing fill soil around the foundation pipes to the ground level and compact it well.
6. Install end frames vertically on both sides of the structure by fixing end frame legs firmly in the ground and
provide lateral support members connecting corner foundation pipe and end frame. In some structures there
may not be separate end frames, where the sides are covered with polythene films itself.
7. Place all the hoops in the foundation pipes such that the straight portion of hoop is inserted into the foundation
pipe and rests on the bolt used for fixing of the poly grip channel. In some cases the hoops are fixed directly on
the top of the foundation pipe with bolt and nut system.
8. Take 24m long ridge pipe by splicing 4 lengths of 6m each together and place at the ridge line i.e., generally in
the centre position of the hoops and fixed with bolt and nuts at each cross connections. While fixing cross
connectors the distance between the hoops should be maintained one meter. This grip mechanism will provide
a firm grip of the ridgeline pipe and hoops at right angles without allowing for slippage. Sometime two or three
ridgelines may be used for additional strength depending upon the width of the greenhouse structure.
9. Spread polyethylene film over the structure from one end to the other without wrinkles and keeping the edges
together. Fix the polyethylene film on one side with the help of poly grip assembly or by other means and then
the film is stretched gently and fixed on the other parallel side by poly grip assembly. This way the polyethylene
film is stretched and fixed from one end to other end.
10. Whenever medium to higher sidewalls are provided the sides should be fixed firmly with 50 mesh insect proof
net and over it a rollable polyethylene films to regulate temperature. If there is no need for sidewalls then the
polyethylene films can be directly secured inside the ground in trenches of 0.5m depths all along the periphery to
reduce the cost of fixing devices.
11. On the other two remaining ends, the film is fixed to end frames or to the structural member provided to fix the
film on both sides and wherever provision is made, the doors are fixed.
12. Depending on the crop requirement, heating and cooling equipments are installed on the end frame or on sides
(width side). The details of plan and structural design are provided in the figure showing pipe frame greenhouse.
The structural frame should not have any sharp edges as otherwise it would damage the cladding
material.
The film must be stretched and secured to the frame tightly by use of clamps/poly grip assembly/nuts
and bolts or any other similar devices.
The structural parts, which come in contact with the film, should be insulated by wrapping them with
separate plastic film.
MS pipes if used in the structures, need painting at least once a year to avoid rusting.
In heavy rainfall and snow fall areas, it is desirable to reduce the angle of curvature of the arches or to
have a gable shaped roof to avoid sagging of poly film due to heavy down pours/snow fall.
In a medium cost greenhouse where evaporative cooling gadgets are used, no ventilation should be
provided.
Adopt suitable structural design to withstand various loads, reducing any structural member due to cost
factor may cause bending, stress and structural failure.
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Fencing around greenhouses protects polyethylene film, cool-cell pad and other structure from
mechanical damage by animals etc.
No fire should be lit in the vicinity of the greenhouse as the glazing material and pads are highly
inflammable.
ENVIRONMENTAL CONTROL SYSTEMS REQUIRED IN GREENHOUSE
Temperature control system
Cooling and heating control equipments
Relative humidity control system
Light and shade management system
Carbon dioxide enrichment system
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Glass greenhouses: Prior to 1950‟s only glass greenhouse were existed and the
two structured pieces
advantage of glass is higher light transmission and durability over other cladding materials. Due to heavy weight and
massive frame work the initial cost is more but due to its long lasting life it is cheaper compared to frequent replacing
plastic/polythene films.
3. What are film plastics?
Flexible plastic film includes poly ethylene, polyester and polyvinyl chloride. Low density polyethylene
(LDPE) is popular and commonly used due to easy covering, low cost, minimum frame work cost and also save 40
per cent heat compared to glass or FRP greenhouses.
1. What is UV stabilization?
The ultraviolet (UV) rays of sunlight have serious effect on the life of the polyethylene film. UV radiation
breaks in the chemical bonds, by photo degradation and causes cracking, chalking, colour changes and loss of
physical properties such as impact strength, tensile strength and elongation. An ordinary LDPE film without a
stabilization system is incorporated at the time of manufacturing.
2. What is polyethylene?
Low-density polyethylene films are UV stabilized and also infrared blocking films, which can prevent radiant
heat loss are available in various thickness and sizes.
Product information of UV stabilized LDPE film produced and marketed from Indian Petro-Chemicals Limited is
as follows.
Product name Agri-film
Standard size 7m x 40m (width x length)
Standard thickness 200 micron
Tolerance on thickness + or – 20%
Tensile strength at Break M/D 160 kg/cm2, T/D 140 kg/cm2
Expected service life 3 years and more
Cost of film Rs.120 per kg
Address of Regional Office of Bangalore IPCL, Mission Road, Rallaram Building
Bangalore – 560 627, Phone No: 080 – 2223801-3
3. What is meant by Double Layer Covering?
Film plastic greenhouses make use of the air-in-flatted system. Two layers of film plastic are
placed on top of each other with cushion of air maintained at low positive pressure in between, double layer
films are stretched tightly to avoid excess durability of film life and reduced temperature inside the
greenhouse. However, the light transmission is reduced compared to single film.
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4. Rigid panel
a. Acrylic: Double layer rigid panels used for glazing side and end walls and top cover. Highly flammable
but passes higher light transmission and longer life. Available in 8 to 16mm thickness and 4 x 40 ft
(width and length) size. The heat less value is loss and PAR light transmission is 83 per cent.
b. Poly carbonate: Double layer rigid panels, popular due to lower price, flame and hail damage
resistant, used for covering, side walls and end walls, available in thickness of 4, 6, 8, 10 and 16mm
and varied sizes ranging 4-8 ft width and up to 32ft length. The PAR light transmission is 79 per cent.
c. Polyvinyl Chloride (PVC): Rigid panels available in different sizes, cheap but did not become popular
due to short life (2 – 3 years) and reduced light transmission.
d. Fibre glass – Reinforced plastic (FRP): Corrugated and flat panels are popular greenhouse covering
also used on the side and end walls. Rigid panels are available at breakage, uniform scattered light
intensity due to fibres in the panels. Higher transmission (81 to 90%) but becomes dull after few
years reducing light transmission. Easier to cool the greenhouses, constructions is easy require fewer
structural members.
5. Light transmission percentage in different cladding materials
Percentage
Cladding material No. of layers
transmission
One 88
Float glass
Two 77
One 90 – 92
Low-Iron glass
Two 81 – 85
One 87
Polyethylene-UV stabilized
Two 76
One 82
Polyethylene IR-absorbing
Two 67
Vinyl clear One 91
Vinyl hazy One 89
One 92
Polyvinyl fluoride film
Two 85
One 95
ETFE (Tefzel T2)
Two 90
Acrylic panels One 83
Polycarbonate panels One 79
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Temperature is the most important environmental factor has got great influence on other environmental
factors and direct effect on plant growth and quality. Depending on the crop requirement, season, elevation and
agro climatic region, the greenhouses require thermo control systems i.e. cooling and heating components. For
example, the greenhouses for Northern hilly areas have to be artificially heated whereas; greenhouses in plains,
coastal and places where outside temperature goes beyond 30oC require cooling. Whereas in some regions
both cooling and heating is required. The objective of temperature control inside the greenhouses is to keep the
air temperature within a required range. Therefore, the study of both cooling and heating systems in a
greenhouse is important.
2. COOLING SYSTEMS
The solar intensity under tropical and sub-tropical conditions on bright sunny day is around 1 K.W. per
square meter. The transmittance of most of the glazing is around 70% during continuous use i.e., around 700 W
energy enters the greenhouse per sqm. About 25% heat is used as latent heat for evaporation of water and
transpiration by the plants inside the greenhouse, about 75% heat or 500 W per sqm is sensible heat to be
removed from greenhouse by natural ventilation or by forced ventilation cooling systems.
e. What are the different types of ventilations used for cooling greenhouses?
There are two types of ventilations.
i) Natural ventilation or passive ventilation
ii) Forced ventilation or Active ventilation
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During the growing period, excess heat and humidity accumulate inside the greenhouse and air
becomes light and raise up. Due to differential thermal buoyancy of air and natural wind the inside air is pushed
outside through side and top vents there by hot air are removed naturally. The inlet for naturally ventilated
greenhouses is generally provided at the lower level near ground i.e. 1 – 2 meter height opening on all sides, but
covered with 40 – 60 mesh insect proof net and provision for covering and rolling up the LDPE film to regulate
temperature. The out let area is provided at the base as well as near the roof level depending on the size of the
structure. For larger polyethylene structures, natural ventilation at roof level is most effective.
g. What are the precautions to be taken while constructing naturally ventilated greenhouse structures?
Provide sufficient natural ventilation for control of temperature especially for large polyethylene
greenhouses where temperature build up is fast.
Inlet ventilation should be as close to the ground as possible so that the plants can get fresh air.
Temperature build up inside the greenhouse should not exceed 2oC throughout the year.
Inlet ventilation should not have any obstruction or other structures nearby.
The size of the natural ventilated greenhouses should not be too big.
The orientation of the structure should be right angle to the wind direction.
Provide rollable UV resistant LDPE film along all the sidewalls over insect proof net to regulate
temperature.
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The selection of size and number of inlet and exhaust fans depends on size of the greenhouse. The
general ventilation requirement is arrived by the following thumb rule.
Provide on airflow rate of 6 – 8 cubic feet per minute per square feet of floor space (cfm/sqf)
Provide one internal air change per minute of ventilation for summer cooling.
Airflow rate in the greenhouse should be such as to keep the air velocities around 1 meter per second.
The louvers can be either gravity louvers or motorized louvers. Motorized louvers have the advantage
of protecting the greenhouse structures against unpredicted windstorm. Also in case of greenhouse being
artificially heated, the motorized louvers do not let the outside air in.
l. What are evaporative cooling or fan and cool cell pad cooling system?
It is one of the most popular and widely adopted cooling systems used all over the world. In this system
of cooling the external air is sucked into the greenhouse through the wet pad by the exhaust fans located on the
wall opposite to the wet pads. The entering air is cooled by the evaporation of water from the pad, during the
process, the heated air inside the greenhouse is removed through exhaust fans and a slight vacuum or negative
pressure is developed throughout the entire greenhouse because it is substantially airtight. The slight vacuum
draws air in through the cooling pad system and causes cooled air to move smoothly through the growing region
of the crops absorbing hear. As the cooled air proceeds through the house, it picks up the solar heat getting
warmer by about 4oC by the time it reaches the exhaust fans. This temperature rise of air moving through the
house is a result of the heat removal process but can be reduced by increasing the airflow or reducing the light
intensity. The capacity of the fan and the size of the pad depend on the length and width of the greenhouse and
also the elevation and other parameter. In tropical conditions this system of cooling is very effective especially
where the ambient humidity is low.
n. How to select a good exhaust fan and work out the number of fans required in a greenhouse?
Generally, axial flow fans are used, before selecting a fan certain basic information‟s must be known
The quantity of air to be moved in a given time i.e. air delivery
The pressure against which the fan is required to operate
The density of the air or gas to be moved
Noise level permissible
Type of power and voltage supply
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Possible hazards involved i.e. high or low temperatures, high humidity, abrasive, corrosive or inflammable
fumes
Made up of steel frame, with aluminum louvers
Select proper size and number required to remove required volume of air
Different fan sizes for different rate of airflow are available (refer table). Generally, the number of fans
fixed at 25 ft apart and total number required is calculated by dividing the total length of the wall by 25 ft. The
size of the fan is determined by dividing the adjusted cfm or cmm to be removed by the numbers of fans
required.
Maintenance of exhaust fans: Place exhaust fans on the leeward side of the greenhouse to increase efficiency of
fans. Lubricate the bearing regularly, louvers should be properly lubricated. The frame of the fan and louvers should be
painted.
o. What are the precautions to be taken for installation of cool pad and fan system?
The greenhouse should be air tight as far as possible for effective operation of the system.
All access, openings and doors should be remaining closed to avoid infiltration of warm air from outside.
Always select proper fan size, number of fans and required pad area for effective cooling.
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Fog systems are most commonly operated under high pressure, water is being forced through
small nozzles to produce very small drop let size. Nozzles of various types are available to produce fine
droplets. High pressure water with stream of high pressure air is mixed to produce greater volume of
fog from a single nozzle. The quality of water is most important for the performance of fog system.
Hence, filtering of water is essential. The rate at which fog is added to the air depends on the cooling
load, solar intensity and cooling requirement. This can be adjusted by installing the required number of
nozzles in a greenhouse. The great advantage of fog system over mist is reducing the potential for
disease.
ii) Mist cooling: This method of cooling is also fairly common in greenhouses but proper management of
misting is important to prevent diseases increasing. In this system, the water droplets are bigger in size
and deposit on the surface of the foliage and plant parts thus encouraging spread of diseases.
iii) Roof shading: Reducing the amount of solar radiation energy entering the greenhouse by applying
opaque materials directly to the glazing is practiced. Use of commercially available shading compounds
is common and sometime they cannot be removed easily. However, various locally produced mixtures
based lime can also be used to create white wash like material which is ease to remove.
Shading materials can also be attached to the greenhouse and removed when no longer
needed. Shade screens such as saran cloth, polypropylene, polyester, cloth shades and shade nets
are used to reduce solar radiant energy entering the greenhouse. Movable shade systems are also
used when need and retracted the rest of the time, but more expensive. Lath shades constructed from
wood, bamboo strips, aluminum etc., also provide more cooling.
Greenhouses covered with double layer of glazing material particularly polyethylene films and
inflated i.e., passive the air between the two layers known to reduces light intensity in the greenhouses.
3. HEATING SYSTEMS
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c. Unit heaters
These are localized system of heating and a number of unit heaters are to be provided in the
greenhouse at a height of about 3 meter to distribute heat evenly in the greenhouse. The heat generated is
passed through perforated polythene tubing, which runs in the center of the greenhouse with the help of fan
jet system.
d. Infra-Red heaters
The fuel gas (LPG) is burnt and the fumes at a temperature of about 480 oC are passed in 10cm
diameter pipes kept overhead at a height of 1.5m above plants. Reflectors are provided over the full length
of pipe to radiate the infrared rays over the plants. The plants and soil only get heated without much heating
of air. The infra red heating pipes can be provided at 6 to 10 meters interval all along the length of
greenhouse. The temperature of fume gases at exit is about 65oC and exhaust fan is provided for
maintaining the flow of fumes.
e. Solar heating
Flat plate solar heaters are used to heat the water during daytime. The hot water is stored in the
insulated tanks. The hot water is circulated in pipe provided along the length of the greenhouse during
night. Supplementary of emergency heating systems is provided for heating the greenhouse during cloudy
or rainy days.
f. Burners
The oil burners are placed at a different places depending upon the size of the greenhouse. The
method of heating is not uniform and this is not an effective heating system.
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Protected cultivation is a practice in which crops are protected against the unfavorable environmental
conditions. The productivity of crops is influenced by its genetic makeup and also by the environmental conditions.
The important components of a protective structure are temperature, radiation, humidity and CO 2 concentration. In
order to optimize the environmental factors inside the protective structure, it is necessary to determine for any crop or
plant the ways in which that plant responds to given atmospheric conditions and its effect on the growth and
development which ultimately influence the plants yield inside the structure. The Thermo Control systems and its
influence on plants are discussed in previous chapter, the light and shade i.e., radiation factors are discussed in the
present activity.
Solar radiation popularly known as light, which includes both visible light and non-visible light. The quality of
light is classified according to its wavelength in nanometers.
UV V B G Y O R FR IR
300 400 460 510 570 610 650 700 750 800
/……………......Visible Light …………………/
All the visible light (400-700nm) is primarily used for photosynthesis, whereas the rate of photosynthesis is
found at higher levels in Blue and Red spectrum of light. However, when blue spectrum along was supplied to plants,
the growth were shortened plant parts become hard and dark in colour. Similarly, when red spectrum alone was
supplied, the plants became soft, increased internodal length resulting in taller plants.
The wavelength less than 400 is short waves called ultra violet rays (UV) and cannot be seen by the human
eye. In large quantities UV rays are harmful to plants. Glass screens cut most UV light and all light below a
wavelength of 325 nm. Far red light (700-750nm) are involved in plant activity and has very good interaction with red
light combination that has a low far red and red ratio (FR:R) causes plants to develop shorter stem and larger roots.
Whereas, light supplied with higher far red and red (FR:R) ratio favours growth of shoots, longer internodes resulting
in taller plants with more number of leaves. Thus, the quality of light can be commercially exploited for manipulation
of growth and flowering.
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The plant growth is influenced by radiation quality, radiation quantity, direction of light, duration of light,
polarization etc. However, under protective structure the energy interception by crop, the relationship between
radiation and photosynthesis and morphogenesis where low quantum plays a prominent role in flowering as well as
other aspects of greenhouse practices. Radiation interception varies with internal crop management, planting
arrangement and stage of crop growth.
The most common use of the photoperiodic signals in greenhouse practice is through the control and
manipulation of day length. Based on the requirement of critical day length required for the phase transition
(flowering) plants are divided into long day, short day and neutral plants. It has been established that the dark period
controls flower induction in both long day and short day plants. This phenomenon is widely used, example in the
year round production of chrysanthemum which requires at least a 5 to 6 hours dark period to induce flowering.
The spectral distribution may influence plant morphogenesis like more stem elongation due to lack of blue
light or more lateral branching at a high red to far red ratio. Though the practical application of this knowledge is still
limited, it is obvious that the use of covering materials, which alter the spectral distribution, can have a significant
impact on the crop productivity and quality.
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a. Structure designing
Maximization of light begins in the planning stage of the greenhouse construction. Minimum frame work
and sash bars increase light intensity as compared to massive framework seen under glasshouses. Use of
plastic film/rigid panels has become popular due to their easy installation and minimum framework requirement.
An average light intensity reduction is estimated as 10 per cent due to greenhouse frame, 5 per cent from
beam/sash bars and 7 per cent from cladding material in total accounting for nearly 22 per cent reduction in
transmission.
c. Covering material
Different covering materials have different light transmission capacity (60 – 95%) and also the
percentage transmission depends on the single or double covering. The quality and type of cladding material
selection depends on the cost, durability, crop requirement, framework etc.
f. Plant spacing
For availability of sufficient light to plants inside the greenhouse during winter season, wider spacing is
provided between the plants and also space in the centre of the bed/benches to get light for plants on all sides.
Whereas close spacing is adopted during summer planting.
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j. How high intensity discharge (HID) lamps are useful in supplemental lighting?
How intensity discharge lamps (HID) are the most used lamps in commercial greenhouses. These
lamps convert 25 to 35 per cent of electrical energy into photo synthetically active radiation and are most efficient
than other types. HID lamps are compact with high output and need less maintenance.
High pressure mercury lamps produce light by the passage of an electric current through a gas or
vapour under pressure. The lamps available in sizes of 400w and 100w.
Low pressure sodium lamps (LPS) produce yellow light. These are more efficient than the high
pressure sodium lamps for plant lighting to produce quality products. These lamps produce less heat, most
efficient of all lamps used for supplemental lighting converting 27 per cent of the electrical input into visible
radiation. LPS lamps can be located close to the plant canopies giving electrical utilization efficiencies.
High pressure sodium lamps (HPS) produce light by the passage of an electric current through
vaporized sodium under pressure at high temperature, popular, cheap, long lasting (20000 hr and more), convert
25 per cent of electrical input into visible light. These lamps are available in either 400 w or 1000 w capacity.
The other HID lamps include Metal halide type lamps available up to 2000 w and convert 20% of the
total electrical input into visible light. These lamps are a recent development, costlier, with a shorter life and lose
their output faster.
11. When to use artificial lighting? And how much lighting is needed?
Artificial lighting is required for photoperiod extension and it is achieved by providing continuous lighting
for a period of 4 to 8 hours before sunrise or after sunset or for a few hours during the middle of the night.
Generally, the light levels needed are 5 to 50 lamp watt/m2 of growing area. During cloudy periods or other low
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natural light periods artificial light are used to provide optimum light levels for the greenhouse crop. The light
levels for most crops are maintained in the range of 3000 to 10000 lux. It has been observed that providing light
at lower levels for more hours is more effective than providing light at higher levels for shorter period. Proper
lighting system can be designed by considering lamp characteristics, crop requirements and geometry of light
fixtures.
These formulations are long lasting and are used for orchids, anthuriums and foliage plants where
permanent shades are necessary. White compounds are preferred for as they reflect a maximum amount of
sunlight i.e. 83% against 43% for green and 25% for blue or purple.
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16. How lath shade and shading screens are helpful in reducing light intensity?
Lath shades constructed from wood or aluminium are more flexible than shading compounds but their
cost is considerably higher. Lath shades are more effective than shading compounds in reducing the radiant
energy and lath shades provide more cooling than shading compound because air circulates between the laths
and the cladding material.
Wherever shade is needed for a part of the growing season or a specific level of shade is required then
shade screens are installed. During early days of greenhouse technology, cheese cloth was used as shade
screens, but in recent years several synthetic materials such as polypropylene, polyester, saran, aluminium
coated screens etc., are available in different grades of shades ranging from 20 to 80 per cent. The shade
screens system may be operated manually or can be made automatic or computerized using appropriate
screens and control mechanism to give the most effective operation.
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A. RELATIVE HUMIDITY
2. What is humidity? Mention the factors influence humidity inside the greenhouses.
Humidity is the moisture content that present in the atmosphere, generally it is expressed as the ratio of
moisture present in one kg of air. There are several outside climatic factors which influences on the greenhouse
humidity like outside moisture content, air temperature, solar intensity, etc. Similarly, inside factors like
ventilation, rate of air movement, transpiration rate, moisture content, inside temperature, air vapour pressure
deficit etc., influences on the buildup of humidity inside the greenhouse.
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B. CARBON DIOXIDE
1. How important is carbon dioxide for greenhouse plants?
Carbon dioxide is a major substrate for synthesis of food by plants through process called
photosynthesis and responsible for biomass accumulation and crop yield. At present the CO 2 concentration in
the atmosphere (344ppm) limits the rate of photosynthesis in C3 plants. Therefore, increasing the present level of
CO2 to two to three folds (700 – 1000ppm) under greenhouse conditions found to enhance photosynthetic
activity, in-turn resulted in increased growth and yield. In commercial floriculture under controlled environmental
conditions CO2 enrichment or CO2 fertilization found to have several advantages.
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4. What are the factors influence CO2 requirement and CO2 enrichment under greenhouse conditions?
Should know the desired level of carbon dioxide concentration inside the greenhouse.
Average greenhouse air exchange rate during the period of enrichment.
Average rate of net photosynthesis during the period of CO2 enrichment.
Period or amount of time the greenhouse can be enriched with CO2.
Diurnal fluctuation of CO2 concentration in greenhouse – in a fully developed canopy, greenhouse
reaches CO2 level of 400 – 700ppm during the night hours and until around 9 – 10am. During daytime it
may decrease to 100ppm and towards 5-6pm the CO2 concentration may again rise to the level of the
atmosphere.
The number and phase growth and development of plants requires different levels of CO2 enrichment –
when the plants are small, the internal CO2 concentration of greenhouse reaches up to 500ppm during
the daytime, which is more than the external concentration. When the plants reach maximum size of
canopy growth, the CO2 consumption during the daytime increases and CO2 level decreases to 50-
100ppm.
CO2 level inside the greenhouse become deficient especially during winter months in temperate
countries where the greenhouses are closed and air circulation is reduced.
The CO2 enrichment of greenhouse is limited at higher temperature. Above 26-30oC, the greenhouse
must be ventilated and CO2 enrichment must be discontinued.
In un-enriched greenhouses, CO2 level dropped below the level of air concentration when the plants are
grown on peat which is a poor source of CO2 during the day time. If the plants are grown in media rich
in farmyard manure, the daytime CO2 content is maintained at above normal level when the greenhouse
is not ventilated.
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Should possess stable and high organic matter content that will not diminish quickly and the organic carbon
content should be more than 0.5 per cent.
Sufficient porous to permit good aeration, mobility of water and root penetration and at the same time it
should retain enough water. The texture and structure of the soil determine these aspects.
Medium with lower bulk density (1.1 to 1.4g/cc) is ideal for handling and transportation of potted plants and
also improves aeration. But it should be firm and dense enough to hold the plants.
Should possess high cation exchange capacity (CEC) for nutrient reserve (25-40 me/100cc).
The carbon and nitrogen (C:N) ratio should be narrow (10:1 to 20:1) to facilitate high rate of decomposition.
The optimum pH for soil based and soil less substrates is 6.2 to 6.8 and 5.4 to 6.0 respectively.
The soluble salt (EC) level of 0.4 ds/m is optimum for most of the greenhouse crops.
Sufficient amendments and nutrients should be added to root substrate for better results.
Media should be free from weed seeds, nematodes and disease causing pathogens.
It should withstand pasteurization by steam or chemicals.
It should be readily available or easily formulates within the acceptable cost.
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5. What are the different types of soil less substrate used in greenhouse cultivation?
There are several soilless substrates available which fulfill all the main functions of a good substrate.
Selection of single substrate or mixing of right types of substrates is essential. There are several formulations
available in the market and depending on the availability, cost, requirement of crop, purpose, season, water
availability etc., it is possible to mix two or three substrates to achieve proper aeration, water holding capacity, CEC
etc.
I. Peat: Peat substrate is obtained from the remains of aquatic, marsh, bog, swamp vegetation found under
water. Different types of peat deposits are found depending upon the vegetation, from which it originated,
state of decomposition, mineral content and degree of acidity.
i) Peat moss: Most commonly used coarse grade peat in horticulture derived from sphagnum or other
mosses. Light tan to dark brown in colour, highest moisture holding capacity among various peat‟s (about
60% of its volume in water), acidic in nature (3.2 to 4.5 pH) need lime application (8-20 kg/m3), contain
around 0.6 to 1.4 per cent nitrogen, decomposes slowly, good CEC (7 – 13 me/100cc).
ii) Reed-sedge peat: Derived from remains of grasses, reeds, sedges and other swamp plants, reddish
brown to almost black, more decomposed than peat moss, pH level vary from 4 to 7.5 high in salt content,
fine coarse, less water holding capacity, good for pot and bench crops.
iii) Peat Humus: It is an advanced state of decomposition of either reed-sedge peat or hypnum moss. Dark
brown to black in colour, low moisture holding capacity but contains 2 to 3.5 per cent nitrogen, pH level
range from 5 to 7.5.
iv) Hypnum moss: Derived from hypnum moss, pH level, 5.3 to 5.5 good when mixed with perlite and
vermiculate.
v) Sphagnum moss peat: Commercially used horticulture peat it is dehydrated residue or living potion of
acid-bog plants in the genus sphagnum, light in weight, relatively pathogen-free, high water holding
capacity, contain little minerals, pH 3.5 to 4, possess fungicidal substances.
II. Vermiculite: It is a micaceous mineral found in layer by layer, expands markedly when heated, chemically it
is hydrated magnesium. Aluminium Iron silicate, when heated it is very light in weight, neutral in reaction,
good buffering properties, high water holding capacity, high CEC, contain potassium, calcium and
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magnesium. Different horticultural grades are available (1mm to 8mm), highly suitable for pot culture,
greenhouse cultivation, seed germination. Due to soft and easily compressed, it is not suitable to mix with
soil.
III. Perlite: A grayish white silicaceous volcanic rock in origin mined from lava flows. When heated to 1000 oC it
expands to form white particles with numerous closed, air filled cells, light in weight, sterile, chemically inert,
neutral pH of 7 to 7.5 but no buffering capacity, high water holding capacity, low CEC, contains no minerals,
popular substrate for greenhouse cultivation and propagation when mixed with peat moss.
IV. Rock wool (Mineral wool): It is produced by burning a mixture of coke, basalt, limestone and slag from iron
production at a 1600oC temperature. The fibres rock wool is available in cubes, slabs, non-biodegradable,
pH is 7 to 8.5, no buffering capacity, contain calcium, magnesium, iron, manganese, copper and zinc, CEC‟s
negligible, does not require pasteurization, light in weight, high water holding capacity and provide good
aeration.
V. Pumice: Volcanic origin, mostly silicon dioxide and aluminium oxide with small amount of Ca, Mg and Fe. It
is used to increase aeration and drainage with other substrates.
VI. Calcined clay: Stable aggregates produced by heating clay, shale‟s pulverized fuel ash at high
temperatures. It is porous, absorb water but no nutrient value, mostly used to improve physical
characteristics of rooting substrates.
VII. Synthetic plastic aggregates: These are called polystyrene flakes used to improve drainage, aeration and
decrease bulk density, chemically neutral, do not absorb water and do not decay.
VIII. Urea formaldehyde foam: Obtained by mixing air with liquid resins under cool temperature.
IX. Shredded bark and wood shavings: Smaller pieces of shredded barks and wood shavings from several
woody species are used as component in growing and propagating media. The shredded barks and wood
shavings are decomposed by heap method before use as the fresh material may contain phenols, resins,
trepans and tannins.
X. Other substrates: Sand, coir pith, husk, saw dust, straw peanut hulls, begasse, rice hulls, coffee husk, leaf
mould etc.
6. Why preparation of formulations is done?
For achieving the basic functions of a root substrate it is essential to select and mix two or three substrates
together depending on the need. For example organic matter or clay is mixed to provide CEC for nutrient retention.
Sand or perlite or polystyrene for aeration, peat moss or clay or vermiculate for water holding capacity. To reduce
bulk density mix perlite or vermiculite or polystyrene beads. Depending on the crop requirement, purpose like for
germination, propagation, cultivation etc., type of container used, availability, climatic conditions, cultural practices
adopted etc., several commercial formulations are available in the market and also the grower can himself develop
substrate mix based on availability and experience.
7. Is substrate or media amendments are necessary?
It is desirable to amend both soil based and soil less substances with limes and gypsum depending on the
acidic or alkaline conditions of the substrate to bring the pH level in the range of 5 to 7. Addition of phosphorus and
micro nutrient mix sufficient to last for one crop (3-4 months) is done as post plant fertilization. Whereas nitrogen and
potassium provided during pre plant fertilization is sufficient for about two weeks only.
8. What is substrate pasteurization?
To eliminate disease organism, nematodes, insects and weeds the substrates are subjected for
pasteurization, which is a common practice in all greenhouse cultivation. Generally, done on an annual basis or
before every crop, it is must in soil based substrates where in soilless substrate generally does not pasteurize.
Pasteurization is carried by injecting steam or use of chemicals such as methyl bromide, chloropicrin (tear gas).
Basamid, formalin etc.
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Pasteurization
Sl.No. Method Recommendations
Agent
1 Heat Steam 70 – 100oC for 30 min
2 Chemical 10ml/cuft of medium. Cover with gas proof cover for
Methyl bromide
24-48 hr. Aerate 24-48 hrs before use
3-5ml/cuft of medium cover for 1-3 days with gas proof
Chloropicrin cover after sprinkling with water. Aerate for 14 days or
until no odour is detected before using
Dissolve commercial formulation (37%) of 20ml/l of
Formalin water. Apply 2 l/cuft cover for 14 to 36 hr and aerate for
at least 14 days.
8.0/cuft of medium cover for 7 days with gas proof
Basamid
cover and aerate for at least a week time.
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b. Post-plant fertilization: The application of fertilizers starts from the date of planting and during post-planting
period. The type of fertilizers to be used depend on frequency of application, method of application, rate of N, P
and K required, secondary and micro-nutrients requirement etc. The most common post-plant fertilization for
macro nutrients is 20:10:20.
There are different post-plant fertilization methods depending on the type of media used, plants
requirement, irrigation method adopted, type of container used etc. Soil application in the form of bands and
rows, foliar sprays, fertigation and nutrient film technique are important methods. However, in most of the
greenhouses fertilizers are applied through irrigation system using fertilizer injectors also called as proportioner.
4. What is fertigation?
Concept of fertigation is well tested and adopted for a number of crops under greenhouse conditions
worldwide. The development of water soluble fertilizers, liquid fertilizers and micro irrigation systems made possible
to develop this system of fertilization.
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Fertigation is a method of combined application of watering and fertilizer such that fertilizers solution is
applied every time the plants require water. This method effectively saves both water and fertilizers and
simultaneously enhancing the yields and quality of crops.
a. Mention the advantages of fertigation
Higher water use efficiency can economize the irrigation needs of the crops by 30 to 40 per cent.
Improve fertilizer use efficiency. Generally 60 to 80 per cent or the recommended dose of fertilizers is
sufficient to secure equivalent yields of crops as obtained with application of 10 per cent dose.
Least loss of nutrients through leaching to around 100 per cent compared to 40 to 55 per cent in the
traditional system.
Optimization of nutrient balance by supplying the desired and required quantities of nutrients directly to
the root zone in available forms.
It helps to match the physiological needs of the crop at different stages of crop growth. For ex
i. For better root development with high P fertilizers initially,
ii. For active vegetative growth after establishment with N fertilizers and
iii. For crop maturity, flower and fruit development and quantity with high K fertilizers at
reproductive stages.
It helps in maintaining and improving the physical, chemical and biological conditions of the soil.
Reduces ground water pollution.
Save in the application cost of fertilizers and quantity of fertilizers required is less.
Highly economical and provides additional returns due to increased yields.
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For example: to prepare a nitrogen solution of 200ppm concentration from urea (44% N)
200
= -------------- = 455g/1000 litres of water
0.44
6. What is nutrient film technique (NFT)?
The growing of plants in a system where a thin film of nutrient solution is circulated through a channel or
trough lay out on a one per cent slope containing plant roots. It is a specialized from of hydroponics wherein the
nutrient solution is pumped from the sump tank to an inlet at the upper end of the NFT channel. The solution flows by
gravity towards outlet at the lower end of the troughs passing through roots is finally collected back to sump and it is
recirculated again. The flow rate of nutrient film thickness is around 3mm over the entire bottom surface of the
channel. Intermediate circulation is followed for better oxygen supply to roots.
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Cultivation of crops under greenhouses is highly intensive and all the growth factors required for plants have
to be maintained at optimum levels. Water is one of the major inputs, which influence pronounced effect on the crop
growth and productivity.
3. Why source and quality of water are important under greenhouse cultivation?
Water quality and sources play a crucial role in limiting the growth of the crop. Sufficient quantity of good
quality water should be available for good crop development and yields. Source of water for irrigation may be tube
wells, open wells, ponds etc. However, storing in elevated tanks before supplying to plants is essential to ensure
continuous supply and to avoid frequent pumping and irregular power cuts.
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The good water should be free of dissolved impurities such as calcium, sodium and other salts, which are
not only increase the electrical conductivity level of water but also increases the root concentration in the soil which
block the nutritional absorption by the plants. Sodium affecting potassium uptake and chloride interfering with nitrate
intake by the plants. The maximum acceptable sodium and chloride concentrations in irrigation water for different
crops are as follows.
Solid impurities such as sand, soil, algae and decomposing vegetative materials should be separated by using
appropriate screens, disc and sand filters.
4. What are the different methods of irrigation adopted under protected cultivation?
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tank containing liquid fertilizer is connected to the irrigation supply line through either ventury or a positive
displacement pump. An irrigation system of this type is either a low pressure (20.6 kg/cm 2) or high pressure system
(50.61 kg/cm2).
Drip irrigation is today's need because Water - nature's gift to mankind is not unlimited and free forever.
World water resources are fast diminishing. The one and only answer to this problem is Drip Irrigation
Systems.
Model Design
Drip irrigation system delivers water to the crop using a network of mainlines, sub-mains and lateral
lines with emission points spaced along their lengths. Each dripper/emitter, orifice supplies a measured,
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precisely controlled uniform application of water, nutrients and other required growth substances directly into
the root zone of the plant.
Water and nutrients enter the soil from the emitters, moving into the root zone of the plants through the
combined forces of gravity and capillary. In this way, the plant‟s withdrawal of moisture and nutrients are
replenished almost immediately, ensuring that the plant never suffers from water stress, thus enhancing quality,
its ability to achieve optimum growth and high yield.
Fertilizer Tank
Fertilizer Injector
Ventury Injector
Injector Pump
Manifold Fertigation
Fertilizer Tank
Available in 30, 60, 90, 120 & 160 litre (8, 16, 24, 32 & 42 US gallon) capacity
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Fertilizer and chemical injection through drip and sprinkler irrigation systems
Fertilizer Injector
Applications:
Fertilizer and chemical injection through drip and sprinkler irrigation systems
Ventury Injectors
Fertilizer and chemical injection through drip and sprinkler irrigation systems.
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J-Injector Pump
Compact design.
Accurate and proportional injection rate.
Non electric, operates on hydraulic pressure.
Dosing rate can be set externally to desired percentage.
Low pressure loss.
¾” BSP inlet/outlet connection.
Dosing flow range 1- 30 lph (0.26 - 7.94 gph).
Side suction keeps the internal parts away from acids, chemicals, fertilizers.
Self priming.
Easy to connect and disconnect.
Operating pressure range: 0.3 - 5 kg/cm² (4.27-71.11 psi).
Applications:
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Roses are the most popular cut-flower worldwide. From the early days, many new varieties
have been selected aiming at an improved product in both cultivation and cut-flower aspects, like
the high yielding capacity, improved distribution of harvestable product throughout the year and
the improved quality aspects, like flower and stem quality to guarantee an optimal vase life and
satisfied customers. Roses are the most beautiful flowers tops among the cutflowers grown under protected cover and
marketed in the world. Excellent shape and size, bewitching colours and good keeping quality attracts people worldwide.
ENVIRONMENTAL REQUIREMENTS:
Rose is a sun loving plant requires high light intensity,
Optimum day and night temperature requirement is 24 – 26o C and 15
– 17oc, respectively,
75 per cent relative humidity and
CO2 level up to 1000 ppm.
CULTIVATION PRACTICES
Bed size:
1-1.6 m wide,
30-40m long and
15-20cm/ 30-40cm height
0.5-0.75m between two beds.
Spacing:
30-40cm between rows,
14-18cm or 15-20cm between Plants,
6-9 plants/M2,
7 plants/M2 is optimum, (Accommodate 70,000 plants/ha).
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Media:
Both soil and soil-less substrates (rockwool, peat, sphagnum moss, vermiculites, perlite, leaf mould,
coco peat, rice husk etc.,)
pH 5.5-6.8
30-40cm deep well drained, porous, rich in organic content.
Pasteurize with steam at 70-100oC for 30 minutes or use methyl Bromide @ 25-30g/ M2/ 10ml/cuft for
24-48 hr or Formalin @ 7.5-10.0 l /100 M2 or Basamid (Dazomet) @ 30-40g/ M2
Planting:
6-18 month old budded plants may be planted during May-June.
The soil should be loose and humid but not too wet nor muddy.
Growth regulation:
Primary bending : will to be taken up 5-6 weeks after planting to build a strong
frame work.
Secondary bending : 4-5 weeks after first bending to get more number of strong shoots.
Gradual pruning : Harvesting of flower shoot will take care of this operation.
Direct pruning
De-shooting,
Disbudding etc.
Manuring: Depends on variety, type of medium used, growth stage, irrigation system etc.
a. Well decomposed FYM have to be incorporated into the bed @ 100 t/ha.
b. Nutrient composition of rose plant based on leaf analysis is 3 per cent N, 0.2 per cent P, 1.8 per cent K,
1.0 per cent Ca and 0.25 per cent Mg.
c. Nutrient requirement @ 1:0.2:1.2:0.3 NPK Mg
d. Fertigation requirement 170ppm N, 34ppm P, 160ppm K, 120ppm Mg per every watering.
Irrigation:
The first week watering has to be done with sprinklers or hose pipe 5-8 times a day.
3-4 weeks after planting drip irrigation may be employed for uniform watering
Each plant has to be watered @ 1 liter /plant/day.
Harvesting and Yield:
Yield starts 4-5 months after planting,
Harvest at tight bud stage for long distance,
Stem length vary from 40-90cm.
Flower yield range from 100-150 stems, 200-225 and 250-350 stems per m2 in large hybrid tea, medium
types and small and sprays respectively.
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1. LIGHT:
Light is one of the important growth factors which influence both temperature and water.
Primarily light is necessary for assimilation (photosynthesis). Through chlorophyll in the leaves, light is
transformed into sugars, a process also requiring CO 2 and water.
This energy source is essential for growth and development of flowers, stems, leaves and roots.
The degree to which a plant can use the amount of light available depends on several factors, for example
chlorophyll contents of the leaves, CO 2 supply, temperature and humidity.
The other indirect effect of light is the stimulation of vascular transport through the plant.
As light raises the leave temperature, the leaves respond by opening the stomata to allow a higher
evaporation in order to cool down. This process also increases the water transport, enabling nutrients,
necessary for plant growth, to be distributed through the plant.
2. Temperature.
3. Water.
Water plays a very important part in the assimilation process, in transport of sugars and nutrients and in
the cooling system of the plant.
A plant consists for over 90% of water.
The plant is kept upright by regulating water pressure (osmotic systems).
Evaporation is influenced by factors like light and temperature, and to a lesser extent by humidity.
Stomata control evaporation; poor water supply will result in a closing of stomata with subsequently no
gas exchange and no production of sugars (energy).
Water uptake can also be improved by applying directly to the plant by drip irrigation and by reducing the
salt concentration in the water (E.C. or total nutrient value).
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4. Media:
i. Cocopeat.
Cocopeat is a waste product from the coconut palm. In fresh material a relatively high E.C.-value is measured
(caused by e.g. sodium, potassium, or chloride). This material is very easily to rinse causing these nutrients to leach.
Rinsing often is done at the place of origin, using local rainwater during the monsoon period. Cocopeat can hold both
water and air. Remarkable is the ability to take up water even after severe drought. Stability of cocopeat is presently
experienced to be good, even after several years little physiological changes have been recorded.
Cocopeat is pH neutral, at a value around 5.5 – 6.0. At fertilisation one should be aware of potassium present in
the cocopeat. Therefore often a dose (1-2 kg/m2) of calcium nitrate (CaNO3) is applied at the start of cultivation. Initially a
fertilisation schedule could be used replacing potassium nitrate (KNO3) by calcium nitrate. Please, check the iron (Fe)
content regularly; it has been observed that cocopeat may retain iron temporarily. During cultivation the pH can be
adjusted by applying acid and or ammonium nitrate in the nutrient mixture. Water supply does not much differ from
rockwool; perhaps cocopeat requires a little less water.
Rockwool.
The rock wool slap of 7.5 cm by 15 cm by 100 cm (height x width x length) may be used. The quality (durance) of
the slap is an important characteristic to take into account while purchasing (see and feel!) Since roses are grown for
several years on the same piece of rockwool, the quality should be maintained for a longer period. Often special types
are available, even though these might be a bit more expensive, the effects of an optimally operating rooting system will
become noticeable after some time. A hard rockwool slap has got sufficient air/ water capacity. The alkaline nature of
rockwool can be corrected by saturating the bread with a nutrient solution at a pH of 5.3-5.5. During cultivation the pH can
be adjusted by applying acid and or ammonium nitrate in the nutrient mixture.
Cultivation :
The rose plants have to be grown in 30-40 cm above the ground. This height is necessary to provide space for the
bend-out stems and provide enough air circulation through the crop. This improves the evaporation and increases the
amount of active foliage. If heating is required, it also allows the tubes to be places underneath the plants. To obtain the
elevated flower bed numerous systems can be developed and several are readily available on the market. When
applying drains it also offers sufficient space for installation of gutters. If cultivation in pots is desired, various systems
have been developed to allow optimal use of space (frameworks of iron).
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Planting:.
Drip irrigation.
A drip irrigation system is recommended; as each plant receives the same amount of water.
By supplying the water directly on the potting mix, the plant itself does not become wet (so preventing diseases).
The dripper line of the irrigation system are placed on the ground between the two rows, this prevent the dripper
line becoming empty and keep the water temperature low and the dripper line out the reach of direct sunlight.
A capacity of 2 liters per hour is preferred as the chance of congestion is smaller.
By using a drip system, a wet (water) column is created through which the roots grow.
Place the drippers by planting in the jiffy pot, after 2-3 weeks when the roots are growing out of the jiffy pot into
the potting soil replace them approximately 1 - 5 cm from the jiffy pot.
Start of cultivation.
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Fertilisation is in these initial stages done with an extra 20% calcium nitrate. As soon as the first basal shoots have
developed well, it should be returned to normal levels.
The water supply, i.e. the frequency and amount of drip irrigation, is depending on the season and the
development rate of the crop.
Check the amount drain regularly (minimal 35 - 45% over drain). The water gift per dripper is atleast 70 – 80 ml
per irrigation turn. When smaller gifts are used the irregularity between drips becomes too obvious.
At saturation and the initial weeks of cultivation, the E.C.-value of the nutrient solution should be lower than the
E.C.-value of the plants in the jiffy pots you receive from the propagator. This stimulates root growth and results in
a rapidly established crop.
After this initial period the E.C.-value of the water gift varies around 1.5 – 2.0 depending on the season.
The pH of the nutrient solution is maintained preferably between 5.3 – 5.5.
If the pH value in the drain water rises above pH 6.0, some ammonium nitrate could be applied. If the substrate
used is cocopeat, often less ammonium nitrate is required. Besides chemical analysis of the drain water, the
cocopeat media itself could be analysed.
Basal shoots.
Depending on the growth potential of a cultivar a number of basal shoots are formed.
Per plant 2 to 3 well-formed shoots are allowed to continue growing, if more shoots were formed it is recommended
for bending out of these shoots.
This way a plant has got the use of more active leaf canopy to supply enough energy for development of a heavy
crop with first quality flowers.
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Harvest.
At harvest it often was practice to cut back to the first 5-leaf stage.
Hence it is recommended for cutting back to just above the original cutting.
The length of the remaining stem decides the number of shoots (flower stems) which will grow back.
If too much (4-6 cm) stem is left, many shoots are formed of a poor quality. Therefore it is advised to cut back to 1
cm.
After 1 to 1.5 year the rose bush is cut back to approximately 10 cm above the original cutting, so creating a new
top. Now again only 1-cm stem is left after harvest.
To increase the stem length and the bud size, it is need to prevent stress situations.
It is very important to keep the heat out of the greenhouse. This can be done by;
Use shade screen with aluminum reflection parts.
White washes the greenhouse.
In summer start early with ventilation.
Also in-house misting system (above or under the crop) can help you to increase humidity and reduce
the temperature in the greenhouse.
Installing roof sprinklers; Roof sprinklers can reduce greenhouse temperature with 2 till 3 °C.
2. Drip EC level during the period of (extreme) high temperatures and low humidity's, can be reduced till 1.2-1.4. By
reducing the E.C. we can make the water easy available for the plant.
3. Need to check regularly (manual) the pH and EC in the drip and the drain water by the plants in the greenhouse,
Avoid extreme fluctuations. Use alarm system to avoid extreme values, but don‟t rely only on the irrigation
computer.
4. Increase the amount of cycles in summer. Water cycles of more than 100 ml per plant per cycle could be used.
This way we can also make the water more easily available for the plant.
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5. Especially in extreme circumstances you need a lot of leaves on the crop. It would be good if you stop harvesting
for some weeks in summer (when it is very hot). You only take away the buds/flowers. The plants can build up
energy for the new production season. Quality and stem length will increase this way. The amount of ground
shoots will increase also. Do not take too much leaves form the plant. It makes it harder to cool and recover.
6. The crop has to be healthy: white roots, no pests and diseases (like Pythium, Phytophthora, downy and powdery
mildew, spider mites).
7. Do not allow explosion of spider mites (two spotted mites or red spider)
High temperatures will reduce stem length because the bud development starts earlier.
The night temperature has to be atleast 15-16 degrees. Lower night temperatures will give blackening/browning
of the petals of the red varieties.
As you know it is very important to have white root development. If the roots are not healthy, one of the following
symptoms could be shown;
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The crop will show deficiencies and leaves will become yellow and will drop.
The crop will also be more sensitive for pest and diseases.
Root problems also can be caused by a bad drain system, especially when the cocopeat or rockwool is
too wet most of the time. Because of this there is not enough air in the root environment. This causes
fungi like Phytium and Phytophthora.
It is very important that the cocopeat or rock wool can drain easy, blocked drain or level difference in
the bench systems could course too much water around the roots.
In general you can say that water is no problem as long as it can drain out very easy.
Without a good root system you will never get long stems, big buds and big leaves.
It is also important to drip with water of a pH between 5.3 and 5.5 for keeping a healthy root system!
If the pH is too high a lot of elements cannot be taken by the plant. Some of these elements are for root
development.
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A high pH (above 6) or a low pH (below 5) can cause root problems and it‟s also a cause of deficiencies
in the crop. This will cause again a bad root development.
If the EC is (very) high (above 2.5) the roots cannot take the water (and nutrition‟s) easy. A (very) high
EC is causing short stems, small buds, small, thick and dark green leaves.
If the EC is very low, deficiencies can occur.
When the temperatures are high and the humidity is low, it is good to give an EC between 1.2 and 1.4.
This way the plants can take the water very easy (osmotic system in the roots).
If the humidity is high, it is good the give water with a higher EC level (1.6 till 1.8).
In the small amount of water the plant is taking in high humidity circumstances there are a lot of
nutrition‟s.
The EC of the drain water can get too high (above 2 / 2.5) when the EC of the dripping water is too high
or by a too low drain percentage.
Problems with the roots and the crop also can be caused by the use of the wrong fertilizers or a wrong
balance between the fertilizers.
To know the amount of elements it is a must to analyse the water at least every month.
Spores of most of the fungi are always present. If the circumstances are good for the fungi they will
develop and the roots will start getting brown.
If there are a lot of brown roots in coco peat or rockwool, you have to find out why this has happened. A
treatment with fungicide could help, but only solve problems on the short term.
It‟s important, when we have growing problems or diseases, to find the solution. Keep on doing trials
and tests on a small scale to find out how to solve the problems.
If you drench the plants (+/- 100-150 ml water + chemical per plant) you have to make sure that the
plants are thirsty. Before the drench/treatment stop the watering. After the drench/treatment you should
not give water for half a day. You can give the drench/treatment early morning or instead of the last drip
cycle.
Root temperature should not be above 25o C. For this reason it is very important to cover the stock tank
with a roof (it has to be able to ventilate).
A bad root development can also be caused by an unhealthy crop. Infection of insects, fungi or other
diseases will decrease the amount of green leaves. A low green leave amount will cause bad growth of leaves
and roots. A low leave amount can also be caused by harvesting too much stems.
Fertilization.
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An irrigation unit with an A + B tank is preferred to give the exact quantity of nutrients to the plants. The EC and
the pH are measured by the irrigation unit and directly corrected.
Trace elements:
Manganese Sulphate Mn 32% Mn **** 85 Gram
Borax B 11% B **** 190 Gram
Zinc Sulphate Zn 23% Zn **** 100 Gram
Copper Sulphate Cu 25% Cu **** 25 Gram
Sodium Molybdate Mo 40% Mo **** 25 Gram
* This depends of the PH of your drain water, if drain water PH below 6.0 you don‟t need Ammonium Nitrate
in the fertilizer tank.
** When the PH from the drain water is above the 6.5 / 7.0, you have to use EDDHA iron.
*** This depends on the PH of the type of water you use e.g., rain, dam, bore water.
****Always check if you use sulphate or chelate, and what strength the trace elements are!!!
***** You could add Agri Potash (Potassium Carbonate) to increase the PH of the drip irrigation water.
If the mineral elements are not present in the medium in quantities sufficient for plant growth, plants exhibit
nutrient deficiency symptoms. Anything that interferes with the active absorption of nutrient ions by the root system-eg.
Unfavorable pH levels or media temperatures significantly above or below optimum (17-22 degrees) may also result in
similar symptoms. Root injury caused by root rots, water logging and inadequate aeration. Some of the visible deficiency
symptoms of the different essential mineral elements are described below.
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a. Nitrogen; Nitrogen deficiencies are rarely seen in commercial rose production. However, they can occur when growing
media with low cat ion exchange capacities are used and over watering occurs. Nitrogen deficiency
shows as a general overall yellowing or chlorosis, starting on the oldest leaves and then moving
gradually upward. The progression of the chlorosis is from yellow-green to yellow to a creamy white.
Because nitrogen is translocated out of the older leaves to the new growth under deficiency conditions,
the youngest leaves rarely show any significant yellowing.
b. Potassium; Potassium deficiency first begins as a rusty brown, marginal necrosis of the older leaves. The centers of
the leaf blades usually remain green, although some necrotic spots might occur. Severely affected leaf
margins usually curl upward.
c. Phosphorus; Symptoms begin as a gradual brownish discoloration on the underside of older leaves, especially along
the veins. Phosphorus deficiency symptoms usually occur during winter when soil temperatures are
cold, and disappear when warmer weather returns.
d. Calcium; Calcium deficiency appears initially as death of the apical meristems (growing points), and sometimes as an
extreme yellowing of the young developing leaves. The young leaves remain small and yellow, with
colour turning gradually to a whitish yellow or creamy white. Edges of leaves eventually die and turn
brown.
e. Magnesium; Magnesium deficiency is common on gerberas, due to insufficient amounts of magnesium in the growing
medium and the lack of magnesium in most fertilization programs. The symptoms appear on the older
leaves as an interveinal chlorosis, with a persistent, inverted, V -shaped green area remaining at the
leaf bases. V-shaped green areas also persist at the leaf terminal. Once symptoms develop, they
cannot be reversed.
f. Iron; Iron deficiency symptoms occur as an interveinal chlorosis, primarily on the younger leaves. The veins and
veinlets remain as thin green lines. Leaves become progressively smaller, and the chlorotic areas
ultimately progress from yellow to creamy white. In the last stage, even the veins and veinlets become
chlorotic.
g. Zinc; Zinc deficient younger leaves are splotchy and chlorotic in colour, but the definitive symptom is that one half of
the leaf blade ceases to expand and develop, while the other half is normal in size and shape. This
uneven development causes the leaf to bend into a "C" shape.
h. Molybdenum; This deficiency is most prevalent in strongly acid («pH 5) growing media, and is displayed as "strapped"
leaves, i.e. the leaves become exceedingly narrow, and the veins run parallel and overgrow at the
margins to give ser- rated leaf edges.
I. Manganese; Manganese deficiency symptoms appear first on young leaves and are similar to those caused by iron
deficiency, except that the persistent bands of green along veins and veinlets are broader, extending
slightly out into the tissue to the leaf blade. The interveinal chlorosis is not as severe as with iron
deficiency
Please note; When you use the above fertilizer mix, and the drip and drain EC & pH are between the indicate optimum,
the chance to get some nutrient deficiency is minimal. So it‟s very important to check the EC & p H a few times a week, and
make adjustments when this is different than the indicate optimum.
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This is an international pest control list for roses. Because of government regulation some of these chemicals may not be
available or are not allowed in Australia and New Zealand. And we strongly recommend doing at least trials with the
chemicals you have not used before, this to find out if you get any damage on the plants or flowers.
White fly:
Trade name Active ingredient How to use
Chess Pymethrozine Spray
Ambush, Perthrine Permethrin Spray
Calypso Thiacloprid Spray * / **
Applaud Buprofezin Spray * / **
Admiral Pyriproxifen Spray * / **
Confidor, Admire Imidacloprid Drench / trough drippers
Lannate Methomyl Spray / LVM
Dichloorfos, DDVP Dichloorfos LVM
Decis Deltamethrin LVM
Folimat Omethoate LVM
Sanmite Pirydaben LVM
* When you spray Admiral, Applaud use double amount of water, and try to spray on the bottom side of the leaves.
** Save for most of the natural predators.
Thrips:
Trade name Active ingredient How to use
Orthene Acephate Spray
Success, Conserve Spinosad Spray
Vertimec, Avid Abamectin Spray
Regent, Violin Fipronil Spray
Lannate Methomyl Spray / LVM
Dichloorfos, DDVP Dichloorfos LVM
Folimat Omethoate LVM
White rust:
Trade name Active ingredient How to use
Baycor Bitertanol spray
Dithane Mancozeb Spray
Broad Mite:
Trade name Active ingredient How to use
Agramite, Floramite Bifenazate Spray
Vertimec, Avid Abamectin Spray
Kelthane Dicofol Spray
Powdery Mildew:
Sulphur pots / burners are often used in the roses to reduce the change on powdery Mildew, some natural
predators are sensitive to sulphur.
Trade name Active ingredient How to use
Nimrod Bupirimate Spray *
Fungazil, Fungaflor Imazalil Spray *
Baycor Bitertanol Spray
Prosper Spiroxamine Spray
Rubigan Fenarimol Spray
* You get the best result when you spray on a dark day with double amount of water.
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Carnations (Dianthus caryophyllus) are the most popular cutflowers in the global trade next to roses.
They are popular due to their attractive colour shades and keeping quality. Native of Mediterrarian region is
a recent introduction to India.
CLIMATE REQUIREMENT
Carnations likes‟ mild climate, cultivation at 30oN and S latitude of equator is ideal climate. For successful
cultivation on commercial scale growing under cover is must plants needs ample of diffused sunlight, temperature of 13 –
14oC is ideal, 50-60 per cent relative humidity, good ventilation and circulation of air is very important.
CULTIVARS
a. Standards – Kristena, Regina, Trendy, Gold Rush, Internet, Master, Iberia, Ariane,
Monterosa, Monaco, Cobra, Papaya, Monopole
b. Sprays – Elsy, Castells, Medly, Optima, Red Barbara, White Barbara, Stardust,
Furore, Kristel, Celins.
PROPAGATION
Terminal stem tip cuttings of 4-5 nodes (10-15cm long) from vigorously growing, perpetually flowering plant
roots, within 21 days. Stores cuttings at 0oC for 40-60 days known to root better.
MEDIA
Plants highly susceptible for water logged conditions and compactness. Therefore, need well drained, porous,
light sandy loamy soils rich in organic matter are ideal. Require pH of 6.50 – 7.00.
BED PREPARATIONS
20-25cm height, one meter width and convenient length beds are prepared and sterilized with methyl bromide or
formaldehyde.
NETTING
Nylon / GI nets of 10 x 10cm (1 No.), 12.5x12.5cm or 15x15cm (4-5 Nos.) square are placed on bed before
taking up planting. These nets are raised after planting at 15cm level intervals as and when the plants grows to provide
support for weak stems with the help of fixed frames on either ends of
the beds.
SPACING
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PLANTING
IRRIGATION
Overhead irrigation, mist and fogging system is ideal for first 30-35 days of planting
for better establishment of plants. When flower buds are appearing surface irrigation through
drip is best. Excess watering is harmful.
NUTRITION
Small doses in frequent application are better than heavy dose in a single application. The nutrient requirement
depends on the media, type of cultivar, stage of growth etc.
a. General applications is in the ratio of 1.0:0.5:1.5 NPK
b. Quantity of nutrients required per m2 per year is 250g N, 80g P2O2, 200g K2O, 125g Ca and 400g Mg. Applied in
4 splits at fortnightly intervals.
c. Nutrient based on growth stages;
i) From planting until the end of pinching 15.5g N, 6.5g P, 14.5g K, 10.25g Ca and 2.25g Mg per m2 per
month applied at weekly intervals.
ii) From end of pinching until stalks of harvesting 18.75g N, 6g P, 22.5g K, 11g Ca and 2g Mg per m 2 per
month applied at weekly intervals.
iii) During flower harvesting 19.5g N, 6g P, 28.25K, 12.5g Ca and 2g Mg per m2 per month applied at weekly
intervals.
GROWTH REGULATIONS BY PINCHING:
Dispending on the cultivar and purpose different pinching methods are followed.
a. FIRST PINCH – When plants are 21-25 days old, terminal portion of the main shoot leaving basal 4-6
pairs of leaves. This method of pinching is called single pinch which intern
produces 4-6 laterals.
b. SECOND PINCH – It is done when plants are 45-50 days old or 21-25 days after first pinch. Here 2-3
laterals developed from single pinch (out of 4-6 Nos.) are again pinched leaving 2-4
pair of leaves is removed or pinched off. This type of pinch is called one and a half
pinch. These pinched laterals again produce 2-4 shoots each.
c. DOUBLE PINCH – Here all the laterals produced after single pinch are pinched off to produce large
number of shoots.
DISBUDDING
All the auxiliary and lateral buds are removed within 7 days of their appearance to ensure the terminal bud to
produce a better quality flowers in standard cultivars. Whereas in sprays the terminal bud of the main axis is removed to
encourage lateral shoots.
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Plant start yielding 110-120 days after planting and continues for 1½ to 2
years. The stage of harvest of flowers depends on type of market. Flower yield of
150-300 cutflowers per m2 can be obtained.
PLANT PROTECTION
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Protected Cultivation of Carnation under Low Cost Poly House (560 m2 in Rs.)
Sl. Particulars Years
No. I II III IV V VI
I Non Recurring Contingency (NRC)
1 Construction of poly house 2,52,000 - - 50,000 - -
@ Rs. 450/m2 (for 560m2)
Top: UV stabilized plastic &
Side: 70% Agro shade net
d.2 Fertilizer and Plant protection 50,000 50,000 50,000 50,000 50,000 50,000
d.3 Packaging and transportation 25,000 25,000 30,000 30,000 35,000 35,000
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Anthurium is an evergreen, tropical herbaceous plant cultivated for its colourful spathe and
unusual attractive foliage. Originating in American tropics, the genus Anthurium has 600 species,
which are distributed worldwide. Among the number of species available, the most popular and
economically important species are Anthurium andreanum and A. scherzerianum, which posse‟s
attractive long-lasting inflorescence. Several other species like A. magnificium, A. digitatum, A.
crystallinum, A. watermaliense, A. clarinervium and A. hookeri are grown for their excellent foliage.
The Anthurium belongs to family Araceae and derives its name from Greek language
„Anthos‟ means „flower‟ and „Oura‟ means „tail‟ indicating the flower with a tail.
Anthurium ranked eleventh in the global flower trade is next only to orchids among the tropical flowers. Until
1970, Hawaii was the world‟s leading producer and exporter of Anthurium flowers. In the last ten years, the Hawaiian
Anthurium industry has declined because of bacterial blight. This is one of the major problems the Anthurium growers
face worldwide.
Presently, the Netherlands is the world’s leading producer (69 ha under glass) and exporter (36.4 million
stems in 1995 earning as much as US $ 30 million (1995). The Dutch production is concentrated during May to October
because of bright light intensity during these months. The preferred colours in Dutch markets are orange and red
followed by white and pink. Germany is the single largest importer of Dutch Anthuriums followed by Italy and France.
The Anthuriums are propagated on a large scale by tissue culture and supplied to the growers worldwide.
Mauritius is the second largest producer (50 ha) and exporter (12 million Stems/annum) of Anthuriums.
During the last ten years, the Anthurium flowers from Hawaii are exported to the main land United States of America or to
Japan. Anthurium is also produced commercially in Indonesia, Japan, South Korea, Thailand, Sri Lanka, Singapore and
Taiwan.
In India, Anthurium cultivation, which was mainly a hobby, is transformed into a commercial business by
enterprising coffee and tea planters, who were initially responsible for bringing many exotic varieties into India. The
coastal belts of south India, Eastern and Western Ghats and North-East hilly regions are potential area for Anthurium
cultivation may be taken up on a large scale.
Bestowed with natural wealth, the coffee belt along the Coorg district in Karnataka as many as 100 Anthurium
growers, who have formed an Anthurium club to promote and safeguard the interest of Anthurium cultivation. The Coorg
Anthuriums are presently marketed in nearby cities like Bengaluru, Mangalore, Mysore, Goa, etc., from where they reach
other flower markets in Delhi, Mumbai and Kolkata. Anthurium cultivation on commercial scale is also concentrated
around Thirthahalli (Shimoga), Mudigere (Chikmagalur) apart from Coorge in Karnataka, Pune, Nashik, Mumbai in
Maharashtra, Trivendrum, Cochin in Kerala, etc. Sensing the potential of this crop, corporate houses are also enthused to
cultivate exotic varieties imported mostly from Hawaii or the Netherlands. De Orchids and Anthuriums (Bombay), Noel
Agri-tech (Mangalore), Eden Flora (Bangalore) are few such enterprises.
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PLANT MORPHOLOGY
Anthurium andreanum a perennial with creeping, climbing or arborescent stems with lots of aerial roots.
The stem is highly condensed and is not visible during early growing period. As plants grow the stems become
noticeable with distinct node and internodal regions.
The roots are fleshy, thick and the root biomass is more when compared to the shoot biomass.
The lamina portion of the leaf is attached to a long petiole from where, the mid rib and lateral veins originate in a
radiant fashion. The leaves are coppery green in early stages, which turn to dark green as they mature.
The attractive colourful plant that is traded is actually a modification of the leaf, which is botanically called
‘spathe’.
The heart shaped spathe appears on a long flower stalk and a number of veins that originate from the junction of
the spathe and the flower stalk. The veins are interconnected with secondary and tertiary veins.
A cylindrical fleshy ‘spadix’ originates from the same junction and produces a number of bisexual flowers (150-
250 flowers) which are arranged in concentric whorls.
The female part of the flower matures first (protogynous), which can be noticed by nectar like secretions in the
form of shining droplets on the flowers.
The anthers dehisce at a later stage forcing the flowers to cross pollinate.
When the stigmatic surfaces are wet and receptive, pollen from another flower/variety/species can be applied to
pollinate the flowers.
After successful pollination, the spadix enlarges and turns dark green in colour; the spathe also loses its original
pigmentation and turns green by producing enough chlorophyll pigments.
The product of fertilization i.e. the fruit – is a berry which pops out of the spadix on maturity. The seed is covered
by juicy, mucilaginous pulp, which needs to be removed, when the seeds are sown.
AVAILABLE GERMPLASM
The genus Anthurium can be categorized into two distinct groups – flowering and foliage types. Although some
Anthurium species flowers are inconspicuous and unattractive, they have unique velvety attractive foliage. Such
Anthurium is grown as foliage potted plants. The flowering group products remarkably attractive spathe and colourful
spadices, but the foliage may not be so attractive. The species that are classified as foliage types and flowering types
are;
FLOWRING TYPE
Anthurium andreanum, A. seherzerianum, A. omaturm, etc.
FOLIAGE TYPE
A. Clarinervium, A. corrugatum, A.crystallinum, A. digitatum
A. holtanianum, A. leuconerum A. magnificum, A. pentaphyllum
A. pedetoradiatum, A. olfersianum, A. hookeri, A. veitchii
A. warocqueanum, A. watermaliense etc.
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VARIETIES
The present day flowering Anthuriums are mostly hybrids of A. andreanum and A. scherzerianum. Some
of the hybrids/varieties evolved during early stages of varietals improvement are listed below.
Variety/Hybrids Spathe Colour Variety/ Hybrids Spathe Colour
Abe Bright pink Jamaica White
Aneunue Green and coral pink Marian Seefurth Rose pink
Avo-Anneke Pink Manova mist White
Avo-Jose White Ozaki Red
Avo-Claudia Red Sunburst Bright Orange
Avo-Chemelion White Sariana White and rose
Favoriet Orange Trinidad Off white
Hage-White White Horning orange Orange
Besides these coloured varieties there are many varieties that are bi-coloured. Such bicoloured varieties are
known as Obakes in trade.
Examples of obakes include;
Madona (Cream obake)
Farao (bright orange with green borders)
Lambada (white-green obake) and Fla rose (Peach)
TYPES OF ANTHURIUM
2. Obake: Popular for their two-tone coloration usually a bi-colour pattern of green and a major spathe colour.
Some varieties will lose their green color in summer resulting in solid coloured spathe. Sizes vary from 8x7cm in
miniatures and 28x23cm large varieties and
3. Tulip: They have up right cupped spathes, with a straight and erect spadix. The spathe size ranges from
10x6cm. Tulip types are mostly hybrids with more than one species as their parents.
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GROWING STRUCTURES
Depending upon the area of cultivation, the growing structures can be modified to suit the local climatic
conditions. Commercial scale Anthurium cultivation can be taken up in low cost polyhouses, shade houses or climate
controlled green houses.
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SHADE HOUSES
In many of the commercial Anthurium growing areas, shade houses are the most popular structures because of
the simplicity of construction and low cost. The shade houses can be constructed by taking the support of existing tree
trunks if the Anthuriums are grown in multistoried plantation cropping. In open areas wooden, granite or pillars can be
erected at regular intervals connected by GI wires as a mesh on top. Shade net can be covered on the top to provide the
required shade 75%, (ie., 50 +25%, shade nets). Provision can be made for installing overhead sprinkler/misters/fogging
systems by running GI wires from one end to another end.
PHYSIOLOGICAL PROBLEMS
1) Excess light
Symptoms –Leaves appear bleached in the centers and may have brown tips.
Control – Increase shade so as to reduce light level to 1800-2500 foot-candles.
2) Over fertilization
Symptoms – Lower leaves become yellow and develop brown tips that gradually enlarge.
Control – Reduce fertilization and leach soils thoroughly. Check roots for damage and possibility of secondary
infection by fungus or bacteria.
3) Lack of flowering
Symptoms –Mature plants produce many leaves but few flowers. No flowers on the lateral shoots.
Control – Increase light level to 1800-2500 foot-candles. Maintain higher light intensity as long as leaves do not
develop symptoms mentioned in 1) above.
GROWING MEDIA
Anthurium requires a highly organic, well aerated medium with good water retention. However, the secret of success
for commercial cultivation is to have good drainage in the medium used. An ideal medium for pots or ground potting
should have the following properties;
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Various natural derivatives, which satisfy the above conditions, were tried to grow Anthuriums commercially.
The range of media that were used so far includes;
Sugarcane bagasse Saw dust
Coffee leaf mould Tree bark
Spent ground coffee Chicken manure
Coffee husk Ground nut shells
Cured coffee pulp Peat
Coffee parchment Wood shavings
Rock wool Brick, gravel, rubble etc
In many Anthurium growing countries, coconut husk and coco-peat have become the most popular media for
Anthurium cultivation. India has a rich wealth of coconut plantations throughout southern India, the byproducts of which
can be exploited for Anthurium. The coconut waste generated from the industry and in the trade can be collected and
washed repeatedly to wash of the excess salts especially sodium chloride. The coconut waste is allowed to decompose
by using microbial (Pleurotus sp.) inoculation to the stock of coconut husk/coco-coir/coir dust.
A. CULTIVATION IN POTS
Anthurium especially the miniature type, A. scherzerianum and its hybrids have to be grown in pots to use them
as potted plants. When young the plants can be planted in smaller pots (4”) and as they grow they can be shifted to
bigger pots (6” -10” diameter pots). Depending on the plant size, the pots have to be arranged in such a way that the
foliage does not overlap with the leaves of adjacent pots.
B. CULTIVATION IN BEDS
When planting is done in soil, the plants have to be grown in 1.00 meter wide raised beds with gentle slope,
which facilitates good drainage. The beds have to be raised approximately 30cm in height which gets compressed due to
frequent irrigation and other cultural practices. The beds are prepared by digging about 2 feet deep and filling the pits
with the chosen growing medium. The dug out soil is thoroughly mixed with chosen growing medium and is used as top
layer to create the raised beds. The mixing of soil with the medium, which is otherwise loose and friable, prevents runoff
of the medium.
PLANTING
Avoid planting during seasons with high temperature and high rainfall
Make sure the bed/medium is evenly moist but not wet
Provide an initial fertilizer dose having increased potassium and lower calcium levels.
Dip the roots in a fungicide solution before planting (0.1% Bavistin).
Plant them in rows in cross wise pattern.
Plant at an optimum depth (15cm deep so that new aerial roots appear above the planting surface.
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Do not prune the leaves immediately after planting, allow the plants to establish and cut down to three to four
leaves.
PLANTING DENSITY
The optimum spacing for commercial cultivation of Anthurium is 45 x 45cm, which accommodates 5 plants/m2. A
closer planting of 30cm apart is also remanded to accommodate 7 to 10 plants/m2 and 61,750 plants/ha. At higher
plant densities though Anthuriums produce more, dense planting restricts air circulation and interferes with spray
penetration. Hence, disease and pest management becomes difficult.
IRRIGATION
Anthurium requires generous watering and should be irrigated at least twice a day in summer months. In field
grown plantations besides ground level irrigation, the plants can also be watered using overhead sprinklers. Irrigation can
be accomplished by flooding beds or by installing micro-sprinklers at the plant level.
NUTRITION
Anthuriums prefer smaller doses of fertilizers at frequent intervals rather than larger doses in longer intervals.
For pot cultivation it is advisable to apply 5g of any complex fertilizer in 500ml of water (1%) once in a month. Anthuriums
can also efficiently take up nutrients thorough foliage. Foliar application of 0.1% urea at monthly intervals is found to be
beneficial. Adequate levels of calcium and magnesium are also necessary for optimum yield. Deficiency of calcium often
results in color break in the spathes. Application of 5g of CaNo 3 at monthly intervals stabilizes the spathe color.
On an average Anthuriums require two liters of water/m. sq. per day when supplied through online drippers. One
gram of fertilizer per ovary one liter of water is found to be suitable for good growth of Anthurium after fertilizer application
thorough irrigation water, it is essential to irrigate with two liters of plain water/m 2 to prevent accumulation of excess salts
in the root zone, which can lead to scorching of roots and leaves. In high rainfall areas the nutrients get washed away in
the rain water, slow releasing fertilizers like osmocote, neem coated urea etc. are preferred in such areas.
In commercial plantations, fertilizers are applied to the plants through ground level sprinklers or through the Drip
irrigation system.
Depending on the nutrient status of the medium, the following combinations of nutrients are supplied through
irrigation water by many commercial growers.
Major Nutrients Nutrient Concentration (ppm)
Potash 14
Calcium 176
Magnesium 60
Nitrate 91
Sulphate 48
Phosphate 31
Minor Nutrients Iron 0.80
Manganese 0.16
Boron 0.22
Zinc 0.20
Copper 0.03
Molybdenum 0.05
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PROPAGATION
Anthurium can be very easily grown by seeds, but it is an extremely slow process. The berries (fruit of
Anthurium) pop out extremely slow process. The seed (some times two) is enveloped by juicy, mucilaginous pulp which
depending needs to be removed completely before sowing. Depending upon the type of medium used the seeds will
germinate in 10 to 40 days. The seedlings can be transferred to individual pots when they attain 3-4 leaf stage.
Anthurium can be vegetatively propagated through cuttings obtained from fully grown plants. Since, the
vegetative growth is slow; the plants require at least 3-4 years to elongate and to produce 5-6 nodes and internodes.
Cuttings can be made by cutting just below the node, so that each cutting has single eye or bud in it the buds sprout in
20-30 days time and readily root treating the cuttings with growth hormones especially, the auxins (IBA, NAA) hastens the
sprouting and rooting.
PROPAGATION BY SUCKERS
The highly condensed underground stem often produces shoots at the plant base. Such multiple shoots may be
with or without roots and they can be separated from mother plant and planted in individual pots, the ability to produce
suckers is variety dependent and suckering capacity can be improved by exogenous application of growth regulators like
BAP (75 ppm) at monthly interval Anthurium start producing suckers once they attain an age of 12-16 months.
Anthuriums are highly amenable for in-vitro propagation using different parts as explants. Conventionally,
Anthuriums are propagated by seeds. The time required from pollination to the maturity of the seeds is about 6-7 months.
Seeds cannot be stored and this should be sown immediately. The flowering starts after two years. Seed propagated
cultivars are poor in uniformity. In fact, there may be a great variation in flower production, colour and shape. Vegetative
propagation by terminal cuttings and stem sections are very slow.
HARVESTING
Anthurium flowers are harvested when the spathe completely unfurls and the spadix is well developed.
Development of true flowers on the spadix is also used as a criterion for harvesting the blooms. When one third of the
flowers on the spadix mature, change of colour can be observed that moves from base to tip of spadix at that stage the
flowers are harvested. Harvesting has to be done during cooler parts of the day i.e. early morning or late evening.
PACKING
Dutch packing puts few Anthuriums in a box to make sure that the Anthurium spathes do not bruise. Within each
box flowers are of a uniform grade and generally of the same colour. Individual flowers are packed with water vials filled
with water with preservative solution. Flowers are packed so as not to touch each other or the ends of the box. White
foam rubber cushions are used to support the spadix. If flowers are layered, 4cm thick plastic sheeting is inserted
between the layers. White cellulose shredding is used around the ends, particularly in the winter, when foam peanuts or
other white foam pieces may be included in the box for insulation.
Anthurium packaging is into boxes of white surfaced corrugated cardboard, the lids which have been printed with
3-colour logos and lettering.
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Important Tips
Anthurium is a shade loving plant. It requires 70-75% shade.
Requires well drained, porous, organic matter rich soil/media
Coconut husk/coco peat/coir pith is good medium as it is abundantly available in coastal India.
Optimum pH (7.0), electrical conductivity (0.5 ms/cm) is crucial for production.
DISEASE:
Bacterial Diseases
1. Soft rot (Erwinia carotovora subsp. Carotovora), Xanthomonas blight (Xanthomonas campestris pv.
Dieffenbachiae),
2. Anthracnose (Colletotrichum gloeosporioides),
3. Leaf spot (Gloesporium, Cercospors,Colletotrichum and Phyllosticta)
4. Flower blight (Botrytis cinerea), and
5. Root rots (Phytophthora parasitica)
Nematode Management
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Wild growth of bamboo plantation in the hills facilitate the construction of a relatively low cost bamboo
poly house. The design and cost estimation details of construction of a poly house covering an area of 1500
Sq.ft (140 Sq.m) is given below
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The daisy-like flowers grow in a wide range of colors including yellow, orange, cream-white,
pink, brick red, scarlet, maroon, terracotta and various other intermediate shades. The double cultivars
sometimes have bicolor flowers, which are very attractive. The flower stalks are long, thin and leafless.
Plant system:
Gerbera's are mainly planted on a bench system. The space required between the walking paths is 75-80 cm.
And the recommended distance between rows is 75-80 cm. The distance between the plants within the row should be 20
cm. The size of the distance between the plants is measured from heart to heart of the pot centre. A pot size of 3.5 / 4.5
litre and 18-20 cm deep is recommended.
Disinfection:
Clean the ground and bench system so there is no old plant materials left in the greenhouse.
Disinfect the bench system, drippers and the pots with a disinfection material.
SOIL STRUCTURE
To be successful in Gerbera growing, soil selection is very important. The main factors to
consider are as under:
1. Soil pH should be between 5.5 – 6.5 or it should be maintained at this level to get maximum efficiency
in absorption of nutrients.
2. The salinity level of soil should not be more than 1 ms/cm. Therefore, as soon as you select the sire,
get the soil analyzed to decide its further reclamation.
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3. The soil should be highly porous and well drained to have better root growth and better penetration of
roots.
DISINFECTION OF SOIL
Before plantation of Gerbera, disinfections of soil are absolutely necessary. In particular, the
fungus Phytophthora is a menace to Gerbera. The various methods of sterilization are:
BED PREPARATION
In general, Gerberas are grown on raised beds to assist in easier movement and better
drainage. The dimensions of the bed should be as follows:
The beds for planting should be –Highly porous, well drained and airy
Gravel/sand can be added at the bottom for better drainage. Organic manure is recommended to
improve soil texture and to provide nutrition gradually.
The soil should be loose all time. Organic manure and soil should be mixed thoroughly for optimum
results.
The composition of bed material should be such that it should be highly porous, well drained and
provide proper aeration to the root system. Gravel/sand can be added at the bottom for better drainage.
Organic manure should be added to improve the soil texture and also to provide nutritious elements gradually.
The soil should not be very compact after watering. The upper layer of soil and FYM should be properly mixed.
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While bed preparation, add Single Super Phosphate (0:16:0) @ 2.5 kg per 100 sqft for better root establishment
and Magnesium Sulphate @ 0.5 kg per 100 sqft to take care of deficiency of Mg.
PLANTING
While planting Gerbera plants, the crown of plants should be 1-2 cm above soil level. As the
root system establishes the plants are pulled down. Therefore, the crown must be above the ground
level at planting and also throughout the life cycle.
Plant the seedlings without disturbing the root-ball. Generally, two rows should be planted on
one bed at 37.5cm distance between the rows and 30cm distance between the plants in one row i.e.
Row – Row = 37.5cm = 1.25‟
Plant – Plant = 30.0cm = 1.00‟
Rake the soil surrounding the plant every fortnight for aeration.
After plantation, maintain the humidity at 80 – 90% for 4 -6 weeks to avoid desiccation of
plants. “AVOID EXCESSIVE WATERING TO GERBERA”
POT CULTURE:.
Planting should be done in uniformly moistened potting mix. Place the plant into the potting mix so the top of the
fertile pot is 2 cm higher than the potting mix. If planted too high, the plants might break at harvest. While planting too
deep increases the risk of disease (rotting of the heart). Prevent root damage by carefully pressing the potting mix against
the pot. Under conditions with high day time temperatures in the greenhouse (> 30°C), it is recommended to plant early in
the morning or in the evening when the temperature are less extreme. To allow a good contact between pot and soil, it is
recommended hand water very soon after planting.
IRRIGATION
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6. Until the first flowers are produced, watering can be done as overhead irrigation. Thereafter irrigation is
through drippers.
7. The R.H. of air should not exceed 90 – 92%, as it will lead to deformity of flowers.
8. As a thumb rule, the soil should be moderately moist-however never having excessive water.
A drip irrigation system is recommended; as each plant receives the same amount of water, and by supplying the
water directly on the potting mix, the plant itself does not become wet (so preventing diseases). The pipes of the system
are placed on the ground between the two rows, to prevent the dripper line becoming empty, and the water temperature in
the dripper line is out the reach of direct sunlight.
Start with irrigation about one or two days before planting, to make the potting mix already wet. This will help the
gerbera plant to make a better start. Start one hour after sunrise when the plants are just planted in the pots/ beds. In the
first 1-2 months you must be careful that the potting mix/ media does not get too wet, in this period you could stop 5-6
hours before sunset. When the plants are full grown you could stop 3-4 hours before sunset,
Use the drip irrigation 2-10 times a day. This depends on the size of the plant and the time of the year. There
could be a difference, between a cloudy and sunny day of 40-50% in the usage of water with the gerbera plants.
The drain must be between the 30-40% of the total water gift, please note that there could be a difference
between the structures of the soil, these means that every type of soil requires a different amount of water.
Per dripper a minimum of 60cc and maximum of 100cc should be give per irrigation. When the plants are older a
minimum of 80cc per irrigation should be given depending on the season.
Check regularly if the moisture of the column just below the drip is the same as at the base of the column. If the top soil is
wetter than the soil at the base, increase the water quantity per supply. On the other hand, if the situation is reverse (top
soil drier than base), reduce the water gift.
Drippers
FERTILIZATION
1. After plantation apply N:P:K 1:1:1 (e.g. 20:@):@)) EC – 1.5 ms/cm or apply N:P:K 20:20:20 @ 0.4
g/plant every alternate day for first three months during the vegetative phase to have better foliage.
2. Once flowering commences, apply N:P:K 2:1:4 (e.g. N:P:K 15:8:35) EC – 1.5 ms/cm or apply N:P:K
15:8:35 @ 0.4 g/plant every alternate day for more flowers and better flower quality.
3. Irrigate and fertilize frequently in small quantities for optimum results. However, always take care to
fulfill the crop requirement.
4. Micronutrients should be given weekly or fortnightly as per the deficiency symptoms (preferably
chelated source).
5. Always do the soil analysis every 2-3 months to decide specific nutrient schedule.
6. As a layman, whenever you enter the greenhouse the plants should look very healthy and glossy.
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A feeding unit with an A + B tank is preferred to give the exact quantity of nutrients to the plants. The EC and the
pH are measured and directly corrected. The set points of the pH and EC put in the computer are given to the plants.
Fertilizer program:
Trace elements:
Manganese Sulphate Mn 32% Mn 70 Gram
Borax B 11% B 250 Gram
Zinc Sulphate Zn 23% Zn 125 Gram
Copper Sulphate Cu 25% Cu 25 Gram
Sodium Molybdate Mo 40% Mo 25 Gram
* This depends of the PH of your drain water, if drain water PH below 5.5 no
Ammonium Nitrate in the solution.
** When the PH from the drain water is above the 6.5, you have to use EDDHA
iron.
*** This depends on the PH of the type of water you use e.g., rain, dam, bore water.
Optimum EC & PH;
If mineral elements are not present in the medium in quantities sufficient for plant growth, plants exhibit nutrient
deficiency symptoms. Anything that interferes with the active absorption of nutrient ions by the root system, likes
unfavorable pH levels, or media temperatures significantly above or below optimum (15-25 degrees) may also result in
similar symptoms. Root injury caused by root rots, water logging and inadequate aeration. Some of the visible deficiency
symptoms of the different essential mineral elements are described below.
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1. Nitrogen; Nitrogen deficiencies are rarely seen in commercial gerbera production. However, they can occur
when growing media with low cat ion exchange capacities are used and over watering occurs. Nitrogen
deficiency shows as a general overall yellowing or chlorosis, starting on the oldest leaves and then moving
gradually upward. The progression of the chlorosis is from yellow-green to yellow to a creamy white. Because
nitrogen is translocated out of the older leaves to the new growth under deficiency conditions, the youngest
leaves rarely show any significant yellowing.
2. Potassium; Potassium deficiency first begins as a rusty brown, marginal necrosis of the older leaves. The
centres of the leaf blades usually remain green, although some necrotic spots might occur. Severely affected leaf
margins usually curl upward.
3. Phosphorus; Symptoms begin as a gradual brownish discoloration on the underside of older leaves, especially
along the veins. Phosphorus deficiency symptoms usually occur during winter when soil temperatures are cold,
and disappear when warmer weather returns.
4. Calcium; Calcium deficiency appears initially as death of the apical meristems (growing points), and sometimes
as an extreme yellowing of the young developing leaves. The young leaves remain small and yellow, with colour
turning gradually to a whitish yellow or creamy white. Edges of leaves eventually die and turn brown.
5. Magnesium; Magnesium deficiency is common on gerberas, due to insufficient amounts of magnesium in the
growing medium and the lack of magnesium in most fertilization programs. The symptoms appear on the older
leaves as an interveinal chlorosis, with a persistent, inverted, V -shaped green area remaining at the leaf bases.
A V-shaped green area also persists at the leaf terminal. Once symptoms develop, they cannot be reversed.
6. Iron; Iron deficiency symptoms occur as an interveinal chlorosis, primarily on the younger leaves. The veins and
veinlets remain as thin green lines. Leaves become progressively smaller, and the chlorotic areas ultimately
progress from yellow to creamy white. In the last stage, even the veins and veinlets become chlorotic.
7. Zinc; Zinc deficient younger leaves are splotchy and chlorotic in colour, but the definitive symptom is that one
half of the leaf blade ceases to expand and develop, while the other half is normal in size and shape. This
uneven development causes the leaf to bend into a "C" shape.
8. Molybdenum; This deficiency is most prevalent in strongly acid («pH 5) growing media, and is displayed as
"strapped" leaves, i.e. the leaves become exceedingly narrow, and the veins run parallel and overgrow at the
margins to give ser- rated leaf edges.
9. Manganese; Manganese deficiency symptoms appear first on young leaves and are similar to those caused by
iron deficiency, except that the persistent bands of green along veins and veinlets are broader, extending slightly
out into the tissue to the leaf blade. The interveinal chlorosis is not as severe as with iron deficiency
Please note; When you use the above fertilizer mix, and the drip and drain EC & p H are between the indicate optimum
(see 7.2), the chance to get some nutrient deficiency is minimal. So it‟s very important to check the EC & p H a few times a
week, and make adjustments when this is different than the indicate optimum.
Greenhouse climate.
As the conditions outside have a major influence on the climate inside the glasshouse, we can only give some general
advice and remarks:
In the initial period after planting, when light is a minor growing factor, shading of the glasshouse is
recommended;
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Prevent direct wind. Gerbera's are not partial to windy circumstances. In the initial period after planting, keep
the humidity as high as possible;
As the plants are developing, the light intensity and ventilation of the glasshouse may increase. The plants
themselves will have a major influence on the glasshouse climate by now (microclimate);
Moistening of the plants is not advisable, so leaf wetness should be avoided;
Prevent condensation on the flowers; it increases the problems with Botrytis on the petals (flowers). When this
occurs, fungicides are of less use. Avoid a rapid temperature rise, this causes condensation. If a heating
system is available, raise the glasshouse temperature several degrees about four hours before sunrise. Start
ventilation as soon as the sun starts influencing the glasshouse temperature;
To prevent Botrytis, a heating system could be used. The crop is kept dry by heating water at ± 45 °C through
a heating pipe between the rows.
Crop maintenance.
Growing Gerbera's is rather straight forward, however picking leaves is often debated. Leaves, besides allowing
photosynthesis, also reduce temperature and increase humidity, and therefore are an essential part of the plant.
However, if the plants do become too bushy, it is recommended to remove only a few leaves at regular intervals do not
take away too many leaves at once!
You can pull the leaves from the plant (natural breaking point), or cut them off leaving half of the leaf still standing.
After de-leaving it is advised to spray for Botrytis, this will kill the spores of the botrytis.
N.B. While pulling the leaves, be careful not to break the plant or damage young buds.
Gerbera is a 24-30 months crop. Depending on the conditions, the first flowers are produced 7-8 weeks
after plantation. The average yield is 240 flowers per sqm (6 plants/sqm).
The flowers are harvested when 2 – 3 whorls of stamens have entirely been developed; this will decide
the vase life of flowers.
a. Pluck the flowers in the morning or late in the evening or during the day when temperature is
low.
b. Pluck the flower from the plant rather than cutting them.
c. Cut the heel of the stem by giving an angular cut.
d. Immediately put the flowers in water after harvesting for four hours at 14 – 15oC.
e. Always add 7 – 10 ml commercial bleach/Sodium Hypochlorite solutions in one liter water i.e.
1% solution.
f. Pack the flowers in a box with following dimensions.
g. Harvest 2 to 3 times a week, however to get a uniform product some cultivars are
recommended to be harvested at least 3 times a week by warm weather.
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*** This figures are based on a 2 year crop production include the change of new plants.
1. Pick the flower from the plant when one or two rows of stamen are visible. This is important because raw flowers
need much more energy to develop completely but they have only a few reserves. Due to this the durability of
raw flowers is shorter.
2. Pick the flower of the plant instead of cutting it off. When the stem is cut, a part of it will remain on the plant and
starts rotting. This part can infect the heart of the plant, which will result in stagnation in the development of new
shoots. Therefore it is very important that the entire stem must be picked off the plant.
3. After the flower has been picked, 2 to 4 cm need to be cut off the lowest part off the stem. The lowest part of the
stem consists of very narrow xylem vessels, through which the water can hardly be transported into the stem. By
cutting off this hard part of the stem the flower can take up the water much better, which is important to avoid
breach of the stem and bending necks.
4. Put the stems in clean buckets with clean water immediately after harvesting and place them in a cool area.
Before every use these buckets need to be disinfected to avoid the growth of bacteria in it. Bacteria block the
stem so that it cannot take up any water. Using clean water is very important, the pH of the water may not be too
high, otherwise you create an ideal climate for bacteria. A pH level between 3.5 and 4 is good. Chloride is a good
product to be added to the water, because this kills bacteria and makes the pH of the water reduce. Don‟t place
the buckets in direct sunlight, because it will break down the Chloride.
5. The flowers take up water more easily if a large part of the stem is placed in water, 10 to 15 cm is ideal. The
temperature may not be too high, because otherwise the flowers would lose too much water through
evaporation. A temperature between 10° and 15° Celsius is ideal.
6. The area in which the gerberas are being watered for a long period should be free from ethylene. Ethylene is an
ageing hormone that affects the durability of the gerbera. Ethylene is liberated for example from the exhaust-
gases of engines. To avoid ethylene ageing of the gerbera flower, it is recommendable to turn off the engine of
the truck during loading, as a precaution.
7. The loss of water in a gerbera flower causes ageing, so this should be avoided as much as possible. Avoiding
draught or wind, as well as increasing the relative humidity around the gerberas up to 70% can decrease the
evaporation of water by the flower.
8. During the long period of watering the flowers, special flower nutrition can be added to the water. This gerbera
flower nutrition consists of sugars and ingredients to bring the pH down as well as to reduce the growth of
bacteria. Sugars have a favourable effect on the durability of gerbera flowers, but if only sugars would be added,
this would seriously stimulate the growth of bacteria, so this is not recommendable. A high concentration of
sugars in the petals makes it easier for the flower to take up water, which results in a better blooming and
durability. We recommend the use of an anti bacterial product (Florisant 500, or Chrysal RVB) to reduce the
growth of Bacteria in the flower stems.
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9. During storage and transport the process of ageing can be slowed down by keeping them in a cool climate. By
slowing down this process of live, the reserves in the flower won‟t be used and so they are saved for usage
during blooming at the consumer‟s. The ideal temperature during storage in the cool room and transport is
between 6° and 9° Celsius
White fly, Broad Mite, Thrips, Red Spider, Aphids; Powdery Mildew, White rust,
Symptoms of pests;
Note; The life cycle of the insects depend on the temperature, when it‟s hot (+ 30 degrees) you have to spray with a
shorter interval to keep the insects under control. Instead of ones a week you have to spray twice a week, best treatment
strategy is spray ones a week and do one LVM (low volume misting) treatment a week.
A. Aphids: When populations overcrowd leaves or stems, winged forms are produced, which migrate to greener
pastures to begin new infestations. Aphids excrete sticky honeydew that accumulates on the foliage of the plant.
This honeydew supports the growth of black sooty-mould fungi, which often renders the affected plant unsightly
and unsaleable.
Thrips; Thrips are small, slender, usually dark-coloured pests, about 1-3 mm long at maturity, with fine, feathery
wings. They feed on foliage, stems, and flowers. Affected foliage may appear to be ragged, scarred, and deformed.
Stippling or silvering maybe present on the leaves, along with an unsightly residue of tiny black drops of excrement
left by the pests. Thrips have rasping mouth parts that abrade the surface of flower petals or leaves that release plant
sap, which is then sucked up. This rasping injures the plant tissue, leaving brownish streaks on light coloured flower
petals, or whitish or silvery streaks on foliage or dark coloured flower petals. Like aphids thrips can also carry certain
plant viral diseases.
B. White Fly: Whitefly‟s are tiny (about 1-2 mm long) and resemble tiny white moths. Large numbers cause
reduced plant vigor, chlorosis, and yellowing of the foliage. Like aphids, they also excrete large quantities of
honeydew, which leads to the development of sooty mould on the foliage. Be sure that you use chemicals for the
fly, and the eggs.
C. Spider Mites; The spider mites or two spotted mite is the most common found on gerberas. The mite is tiny
(about 0.5-1.5 mm long) and you need a binocular to see the mites.
Mites feed by inserting their stylets into the plant cells, primarily on the underside of the leaves, and sucking out
the cell contents. Small greyish or yellowish stippled spots appear shortly thereafter on the upper leaf surfaces.
Be sure that you use chemicals for the spider, and the eggs.
D. Broad Mites and Cyclamen Mites; These are essentially microscopic in size, and are usually transparent or
translucent in colour. A binocular microscope is needed to view them. They inhabit meristematic areas such as
the vegetative growing point or young, developing flower buds. Leaves and / or petals are normally badly
distorted and deformed. Leaves may become rigid, much thicker than normal, and may be rolled and or cupped
at the edges, resulting is severely damaged plants.
Prevention: We advice to spray / LVM during the warmer period every week with chemicals which are killing a
wide range of insects. If a problem occurs with a type of insect; spray a separate time with a chemical which is
special made to kill that type of insect.
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Concentration per
Pests Suggested control
litre
Whitefly Astra, Lanate (Methomyl) 0.4 g
Rogor (Dimethoate) 2 ml
Endosulphon 2 ml
Neemazol 2 ml
Malathion 2 ml
Confidor (Imidacloprid) 0.5 ml
Pride (Acetamiprid) 0.4 g
Leaf Miner Chlorpyriphos 1 ml
Nuvan (Dichlorovos) 1 ml
Vertimec (Abamectin) 0.4 ml
Acephate (Acephate) 1.5 g
Metacid (Methyl Parathion) 1 ml
Thrips Regent (Fipronil) 1.5 ml
Confidor (Imidacloprid) 0.5 ml
Nuvan (Dichlorvos) 1.5 ml
Nuvacvon (Monocrotophos) 2 ml
Rogor (Dimethoate) 2 ml
Pride (Acetamiprid) 0.4 g
Vertimec Abamectin) 0.4 ml
Red mites Pure Water Spray
Wettable Sulphur 1.5 g
Karathane (Dinocap) 0.4 ml
Kelthane (Dicofol) 1.5 ml
Vertimec (Abamectin) 0.4 ml
Magister (Fenazaquin) 1 ml
Cyclamen Mites Wettable Sulphur 1.5 g
Karathane (Dinocap) 0.4 ml
Vertimec (Abamectin) 0.4 ml
Catterpiller Lanate (Methomyl) 1.5 g
Thimet (Phorate) (S) 2g/plant
Decis (Deltamethrin) 0.5 ml
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Flower bent – Loss of cell turgidity and under nutrition (lack of Calcium)
Pre-harvest stem break – High root pressure and high humidity in the air.
Premature wilting of Gerbera flower – Cloudy weather followed by bright sun or carbohydrate
depletion.
Double-faced Gerbera flower – A physiological disorder caused by imbalance of nutrients.
Too much growth too little flower buds.
Non-uniform flower blooming – Physical injury to flower stem/pest damage/phytotoxicity.
Short stem length – High salinity level, moisture stress, low soil temp.
DEFICIENCY SYMPTOMS
1. Nitrogen: General yellowing starts on older leaves and them moves gradually upward because nitrogen
is translocated out of older leaves to the new growth under deficiency.
2. Phosphorus: Brownish discoloration along the vein on underside of old leaves.
3. Potassium: Marginal necrosis of old leaves.
4. Calcium: Extreme yellowing of young leaves
5. Magnesium: Interveinal chlorosis on older leaves, leaves get thick and crispy.
6. Iron: Interveinal chlorosis on young leaves. Serious deficiency results in a yellowish-white coloring.
7. Zinc: Chlorosis, one half of leaf blade ceases to expand and develop while other halt is normal i.e., C
shaped leaf structure.
8. Manganese: Leaves turn yellowish, starting with younger ones; veins remain green, heavy chlorosis
9. Copper: Chlorosis in younger leaves; flower develops bad.
10. Molybdenum: Chlorosis on the edges of leaves.
11. Boron: Bases of younger leaves are black colored.
Control measure
Chelated sources (like Microsole, Tracel, Micnelf) of these microelements as a foliar spray.
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Table: Protected cultivation of gerbera under low cost poly house (560 m2)
Sl. Particulars Year
No. I II III IV V VI
I Non Recurring Contingency (NRC)
1 Construction of poly house 2,52,000 - - 50,000 - -
@ Rs. 450/m2 (for 560m2)
Top: UV stabilized plastic
Side: 70% Agro shade net
2 Irrigation systems & others
a. Irrigation system including 80,000 - - 10000 - -
foggers and
2 HP motor
b. Grading and packing area 50,000 - - - - -
d.3 Packaging and transportation 25,000 25,000 30,000 30,000 35,000 35,000
d.4 Polyhouse maintenance including 10,000 10,000 10,000 10,000 10,000 10,000
electricity charges
Total of ORC 2,69,700 1,35,000 1,45,000 2,57,000 1,55,000 1,55,000
Grand Total (NRC+ORC) 6,86,700 1,35,000 1,45,000 2,57,000 1,55,000 1,55,000
3 Gross return @ Rs. 2.5/flower 3,00,000 3,25,000 3,37,500 3,00,000 3,25,000 3,37,500
substantially high.
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CLIMATIC ZONES
Orchids are broadly classified depending on the climatic zones which they choose to grow, accordingly, three
different types of orchids with different climatic zones have been recognized.
Hebenaria, Phaius spps. Some rare orchids like C. gigantium, P. fairieanum have also been reported
from this zone (Western Ghats, South Karnataka).
SELECTION OF ORCHIDS
Orchids should be selected carefully keeping in view their growing conditions. The Know-how to select orchids
is a bit question and there is no such thing as difficult as growing an orchids but it is simply a matter of learning how plants
grown in nature and duplicating it as closely as possible. Certain essential requirements must be met.
Suitable temperature
An adequate supply of water
Plenty of fresh moving air
Suitable light
A suitable and adequate supply of essential mineral salts.
When we buy orchid hybrids, we should ask for the ones which will suit our climatic conditions. Another point to be
taken into account is to buy orchids according to the type of space you have.
It is all about choosing the right type of plant for the particular conditions and facilities available.
The only available space you have at house are window, still then you can go for shade loving orchids like
Vanda
For drawing rooms, orchids with foliage should be selected. Paphiopedilum, Phaius, Calanthe.
For Varandhas, partial shade loving orchids such as Cymbidium, Dendrobium, Rhyncostylis, Aerides which can
be humg in wooden baskets can be selected.
If there is a large space outside, sun loving orchids like Arudiana graminifolia and some Dendrobium, Vanda,
Aranda, Arachins, Oncidium plants can be grown.
The choice of orchids should be made in such a way that you get flowers round the year.
WHERE TO GROW
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Provided the root area is kept warm, heating the whole growing area is not required; quite often there is enough
radiant heat for the remainder of the plant. Inside most houses, the humidity is lower than most orchids
appreciate.
This can be increased by growing the plants on a tray of gravel with water kept to a level just below the surface
of the gravel.
Plants in pots standing on the gravel will benefit from the rising humidity.
In warmer regions, if you grow plants outside, an area below the outer branches of a tree will often be
satisfactory.
Place the pots on a small bench or bricks to allow free circulation of air, yet prevent insects entering the pots.
Most of the terrestrial orchids can be grown in soil or pots but most of the erect and epiphytic ones can be hung
in baskets down the roof.
They can also be arranged on the wooden logs or green fern and tied to the tree trunks if you have them in your
compound.
Trees in the garden form a natural Orchidarum.
LIGHT
o Sunlight has several „Photomorphogenetic influences‟ upon plants such as inducing photosynthesis,
phototropism and photoperiodism.
o Light is essential for plants in many ways.
o It helps the mature plant to flower.
o Bud initiation in plants is the result of the action of a hormone, the phytochrome, which requires for its
production, the correct duration of light and dark periods.
o It provides the energy necessary for the manufacture of carbohydrates.
Light, like many other cultural factors, will vary from orchid genus to genus under cultivation.
o The optimum which orchids generally require is between 3000-6000 foot candles.
o Cypripedium and Phalenopsis need only between 200-300 foot candles and hence are to be kept in
comparatively more shaded regions of the orchid house.
o Cymbidium will grow under full sun. Therefore, it becomes necessary to shade some orchid green houses to
ensure that the proper amount of light will be available for good plant growth.
o An intimate knowledge of the light requirements of orchids has led to the development of the fascinating
procedure called „light gardening‟ which now quite popular among orchid growers.
o There are particular regions in the spectrum of sunlight which aids particular processes in the physiology of
plants.
o Thus the blue and orange-red regions of the spectrum aid in photosynthesis,
o while absorption in the far-red regions of the spectrum stimulates flowering.
o Based on this knowledge, extra amount of illumination is now being supplied to orchids either to supplement
sunlight or to replace it entirely, with the result that more vigorous growth and greater output of flowers are
achieved.
o Light gardening has made it possible to grow orchids even in cellars where no sunlight penetrates.
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Even though the majority of orchids are day-neutral, there are a few species which are controllable.
In these plants, the hormone phytochrome is produced only then the day and night are able to control the time
of flowering in such species.
The correct ratio between the light and dark periods and in some cases, the correct temperature also initiates
the production of phytochrome, which is a protein acting as an enzyme.
In general, orchids grow best in diffused light but there are certain orchids which grow well in high light. We
should give our plants as much light as possible provided the roots stay moist and cool.
TEMPERATURE
The temperature regimes used will be governed by the genera grown. Even though various species of orchids
vary in their individual requirements of optimum temperature,
Generally orchids thrive in a day temperature varying between 16 to 21 o C and a night temperature of 13 to
16oC.
Three basic temperature regimes enable the enthusiast to grow nearly all cultivable orchids. They are
1. The cold or cool
2. The intermediate (temperate)
3. The warm or hot.
Summer: Day 16-21o C Cymbidiums,
Night 13o C Odontoglossums,
Paphiopedilums,
COOL SPECIES
Winter: Day 13-16o C Zygopetalums thrive
Night 10o C well.
HUMIDITY
Humidity is very important for the good growth of all plants especially tropical ones and particularly epiphytes,
which is much more difficult to control than either heat or light.
It has been proved that about 50% humidity is suitable for most orchids.
As a rule, they do not thrive in places where the relative humidity is less than 50%. In wild, the majority of
orchids flourish in regions of perpetual mist.
Since they are not regular soil plants, with a proper root system to absorb and supply them with enough
moisture from the soil, epiphytic orchids do best in an atmosphere as saturated with water vapour as possible.
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Excessive humidity is dangerous, for it brings about susceptibility to certain diseases. Plant parts may be
attacked by various bacteria and fungi. Excessive high relative humidity (above 70%) contributes to succulent
growth which is more susceptible to infection than hard growth.
The danger of infection during the high relative humidity maintained for the purpose of cooling the plants in the
daytime is lessened by good air movement.
Humidity levels vary greatly from area to area and from country to country and it would be unwise to
generalize.
The most popularly used device for creating humidity is the evaporative water coolers.
Spraying the benches, walls and floor of the orchid house or misting with very fine nozzles are also effective in
this respect.
In stagnant air of a greenhouse, it is wise to reduce humidity at night. This is in complete contrast to natural
conditions where the moisture content of the air is usually much greater during darkness but where it is
counteracted by air movements which are absent in green house.
As a general rule, any form of watering, clamping down or spraying should not be performed in the late
afternoon or evening.
In orchid houses we should run oscillating fans continuously.
During the warmer months, an evaporated cooler keeps the orchids house day time temperature around 10 oC
and increases further air movement.
AIR RELATIONS
Industrial regions offer hazards to orchid growing, both by the production of smoke and haze which reduce the
light available to the plants, and by the production of noxious fumes. When soot and grime collect on the plants, wash
them off with a forceful spray of water at frequent intervals. Dirt collecting on the leaves may plug up the stomata and cut
down the working power of the leaves.
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o Some like Pahpiopedilums do not have any pseudo bulbs at all, these therefore must be kept moist but not
at all times wet.
Generally speaking, watering twice or thrice a week would be best.
When drawing up such a schedule the following factors should be kept in mind.
Ideally, plants should remain highly moist to moist and should never be dry. More plants are lost to over
watering that is watering too often-than by under watering.
For most orchids, especially those with pseudo bulbs, a good rule is: “If in doubt, do not water.”
Orchids, the doyen among ornamentals are one of the few flowering plants of commercial valve to be
propagated in vitro both through seed and tissue culture. The modern methods of propagation have brought orchid
cultivation on par with other commercial crops.
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In vitro seed culture: Orchids seeds are extremely small (80-130 Mm wide and 410-560 Mm long) and usually
undifferentiated. They produced in large numbers ranging from 1300 to 5 lakh/capsule. Each seed contains an
undifferentiated embryo composed of 80-100 cells without any functional endosperm. Under natural conditions the orchid
seeds germinate in association with fungus (Mycorrhiza).
Viability testing: At IIHR a new technique was developed for viability testing of orchid seeds with the help of tetrazolium
chloride (2,3,5 Triphenyl 1-2-4 tetrazolium chloride) and malachite green. The chemical, tetrazolium chloride is imbibed
by the seeds as colourless solution and is reduced by the enzymes present in the viable embryo to a red coloured
substance formazan. In the absence of any enzyme the dead embryo will remain uncoloured composition of nutrient
media.
Different media used in Orchid seed culture range from simple three salts to complexes 20 or more salts. Some
media like knudson C, Vacin & Went are broad spectrum, while media like Burgeff N 3f are exclusively for paphiopedilum
seeds. Most of the orchids seeds utilize dissacharides such as sucrose, which is most commonly used carbon source.
Organogenesis is promoted at sub optimal conc. While protocorm proliferation is enhanced by supraoptimal
concentrations. However, after as certain stage of development the orchid seedlings do not require any exogenous
supply of sugars and it can be drastically reduced. Some species of cymbidium however prefers glucose to sucrose while
phalaenopsis prefers fructose to glucose.
According to some workers Ammonium nitrate is the best nitrogen source for early germination and protocorm
formation. After the roots and leaves are formed the protocorms prefer nitrate for their continued growth.
FEEDING/NUTRITION
Whether or not to feed orchid plants has long been a controversial question. Until quite recently the general
consensus of opinion was that it was not necessary and could in fact be dangerous, the advent of new, inert, plastic
potting materials may, however, necessitate the feeding of plants. If in doubt the beginner should not feed but rely on
rainwater to supply his plants‟ needs.
ORGANIC FEEDING
The use of organic fertilizers seems obvious since they are the natural food or orchids. Unfortunately, however,
the precise chemical formulae of organic feeds are not usually known and it is therefore impossible to control accurately a
plant‟s intake. The application of organic feeds has a great disadvantage in that it decomposes the potting compost very
quickly. There are several commercial organic feeds on the market and many of these are good for orchids, especially
those prepared from fish or seaweed bases.
INORGANIC FEEDING
With inorganic feeding the exact proportions of the different chemicals can be accurately ascertained and the
plants feed according to their requirements. The essential elements are Nitrogen (N), Phosphorous (P), and Potassium
(K). The NPK mixture fertilizer 2%N, 0.2% to 0.5% of P and K is mainly responsible for the control of flower and fruit
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development. A growth regulator like GA3 enhances flowering and also the yield of flowers when sprayed at 1.5ppm/lt
once in 15 days before flowering. IBA at 1ppm/lt promotes the growth of new shoots.
Orchids growing in nature do not need much of manuring but those grown in the orchidariums need spraying in the liquid
forms. Fertilizer doses should be dilute. The plants are easily burnt by over fertilizer which can be seen as burnt leaf tips.
One of the liquid spray‟s which gives healthy growth is the Ohio spray.
Requirements for inorganic feeding and tolerance against excessive amounts are correlated but much feeding is done by
trial and error. The order from highest to lowest in terms of requirements for the commoner genera is Cymbidium,
Phalaenopsis, Dendrobium and Cattleya. Intolerant of inorganic feeding are Paphiopedilums and even organic feeds are
usually given in liquid form it is possible to dry feed and the addition of dried blood and bone meal is often practiced
especially when dealing with Cymbidium, Coelogyne, Lycaste, etc.
For the naturally growing orchids the tree trunks, ground, damp broken walls and rocks are the containers. But
when we grow orchids domestically and commercially we need special types of containers well suited for their habitat.
Some of the most suitable containers used are (1) Pots, (2) Baskets, (3) Wooden logs, (4) Tree ferns, (5) Coconut husks,
etc.
Clay pots are generally used for orchids. They may have few to many holes for good drainage and aeration. The pot size
may vary from thumb size to 20 inch pots. Plastic pots can also be used. Wooden baskets are made up of high quality
wood which can withstand frequent watering. These may also differ in size and shape generally square baskets are used.
Similarly tree fern blocks can also be cut into different sizes and shapes and the plants can be tied to these with thin
copper wires.
In the above containers (Pots and baskets) compost mixture is added in different proportions. Care should be taken while
preparing the above compost mixtures so that it provides, (1) Aeration, (2) Drainage (3) Rich mineral nutrition etc.
The potting mixture which is generally used, consists of the following material: Brick pieces, Charcoal pieces, Peat moss,
Stone pieces or jelly, tree fern fiber, farm yard manure, Rock wool plugs, Peat moss, Vermiculite, Pots which have side
drainage holes the compost used is brick pieces, stones pieces, coke which are mixed in equal proportions 1:1:1. At the
bottom of the pots slightly bigger pieces of charcoal are put. Pots with bottom drainage holes are filled up with very small
pieces of charcoal and tree fern fiber powdered in equal proportions of 1:1. These compost mixtures are used for
epiphytic orchids.
In choosing suitable types of container, is it pot, basket or raft the needs of the plant must be considered alone
with one‟s own preferences. The bark of cork oak is extremely amenable to plant growth as well as being very durable.
Ordinary oak or pine bark is not so durable but even so will last for several years. Because of their porosity and durability
the stems of tree ferns are also extremely good.
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In larger collections, the traditional clay pots are still used, mainly because of their cheapness. They are also useful for
the beginner as indiscretions of over watering are offset by the porous nature of the pot which, incidentally, also helps to
maintain atmospheric humidity. Expanded polystyrene is very good, especially since its fantastic insulating properties
protect the roots and favour their growth but its one great disadvantage is that it is so light that plants are likely to be
knocked over more readily. The advantage of baskets is that air can enter from all directions, but this can lead to a more
rapid drying out of the compost, especially in hot summer spells, and therefore watering is more of a chore with them.
The best way of watering baskets is by dipping. Wire baskets, either of galvanized iron or aluminum or plastic-covered
copper-wire, can be used and shaped to fashion. Terrestrials present no problems, being grown exclusively in clay or
plastic pots or pans. For terrestrial or ground orchids, we use sand, mud and farm yard manure in equal proportions and
earthen pots. Now a days in Florida a new coconut basket has been introduced called the COCONEST. This is unique
spun coconut fiber NEST treated with organic substances, crating an strong flexible shell, allowing air to circulate and
retain humidity in the natural way, allowing a constant moist compost for growing. The NEST provides an even
distribution of water to the fine growing roots.
POTTING MATERIALS
Osmunda:
This is the root fibers of the Royal fern, Osmunda regalis. It is hard, durable, sufficiently springy but rigid enough
for good anchorage and contains very little mineral matter. Its great disadvantage is its high price and today good quality
osmunda is almost unobtainable.
Polypodium fiber
This is the root fibers of the common polyploidy fern, Polypodium vulgare. It is softer and finer than Osmunda
fiber and neither so durable nor so good for anchorage and aeration. A little soil should be added to it and this obviously
also increases its mineral nutrition.
Sphagnum
This bog moss is cheap, has excellent water retention property and is inert chemically. It is usually mixed with
some other media but can be used by itself for the establishing of seedlings and newly imported plants that need special
attention.
Tree fern
This is usually obtainable as the ground-down trunks of tree ferns. It is hard, fairly durable, without mineral content and
not very expensive but the fibers are not always long and spongy enough to provide good anchorage. Broken brick,
pumice granules, gravel and broken coke, fir bark, peat, synthetic materials can either be used by themselves in a form of
hydroponic orchid culture or mixed with sphagnum. Generally medium should be porous and well aerated for the roots to
freely grow and respire easily. Easily available and cheap medium should be used either individually or in combinations.
A mixture of brick and charcoal or peat moss which is degradable and holds moisture for a long time can be used.
POTTING
After the selection of plants proper potting with proper compost mixture has to be done. While potting the
epiphytic orchids like Vanda and Dendrobium care should be taken that aerial shoots or Keikis should not break. Vanda
plants are staked. Proper labeling should be done after the potting is over.
The pots should be filled to about 1/3 of their height with the compost material chosen. The bottoms of baskets
should be covered with large flat crocks. The bases generally the prepared pots. The oldest pseudo bulb should be
against the edge of the pot and the youngest ones towards the center so that there will be ample space for new shoots
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and pseudo bulbs to grow. More potting material is gradually added, being temped down firmly with a potting stick
working from the outside towards the center. With a coarse potting medium the top level should be 1-2 c, below pot level.
Monopodial orchids, such as Vanda, Renanthera and Phalaenopsis, should be potted similarly but, since they do
not have pseudo bulbs, they should all be planted in the center of the pots. In Paphiopedilum the potting material is
topped up with sphagnum, which, with correct watering, will continue to grow and be beneficial to the plants as well as act
as an indicator of the condition of the compost.
Without compelling reasons orchids should not be repotted. If, however, aeration of the potting material is poor
because of decomposition it must be replaced. If in doubt, put it off for another year| basically care must be taken that
new growth and shoots are not overlapping the rim of the pot, for large neglected plants which have been potted for a
long time are notoriously difficult to handle and it is very easy to break off new shoots and roots. As to the frequency and
time of repotting there are certain rules.
Annual repotting
Less frequently
All „tussock‟ orchids
It must be stressed again that repotting can seriously disturb a plant and therefore should not be undertaken
more than necessary. Repotting times do not vary very much but should usually be at the beginning of the active growing
season or at least when the new roots appear. The techniques or repotting can be difficult both for amateurs and
professionals and certain rules must be learned, especially regarding the treatment of the roots. To remove the root-ball
from the pot it is advisable to use a knife. All old potting material, dead roots and shriveled pseudo bulbs have to be
removed. With sympodial orchids such as Cattleya, Dendrobium, Odotoglossum, etc., not more than 5 or less than 3
pseudo bulbs should remain. When the older pseudo bulbs, the back bulbs are removed from many orchids it will be
noted that they often have „eyes‟. These back bulbs can be planted in small pots and within 2-3 years will belike ordinary
plants. The containers, pots, pans, baskets or rafts, should be large enough to carry two shoots or developing growths.
Too large pots are to be avoided because they can actually retard growth and inhibit flowering. While repotting, the plant
is held at the base and loosened along the pot inside. The old roots and leaves are removed. Then the plant is potted
again.
HARVESTING:
This is a very important operation and the growers should have thorough knowledge about the flowering
behaviour of the orchids used for cut-flower production. Proper time, stage and method of harvest determine the quality
of the produce. In general, orchid flowers do not mature until 3 to 4 days after they open. Flowers cut prior to their
maturity may wilt before reaching the wholesaler. Harvesting should preferably be done in the evening. All the tools
should be sterilized. Flowers harvested in the heat of the day can be stressed because of high temperature. Dark
coloured flowers may be as much as 5.5o C warmer than white flowers during mid afternoon. When individual Cattleya
and Cymbidium flowers are cut, the peduncle should immediately be inserted in a tube of water. In Hawaii and
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Singapore, some Dendrobium and Aranda growers immerse the entire sprays of flowers in water for 15 minutes before
packing and shipping (Sheehan, 1980).
POST-HARVEST HANDLING
GRADING: There are no standard grades for orchid flowers and their prices are fixed according to the size. In case of
Cattleya flowers both colour and size are considered while pricing. Grading is done mainly on length of the flower spike,
flower number and size and arrangement of flowers on the spike. Sometimes the number of lateral branches on the
inflorescence is also taken into consideration.
STORAGE: Since most orchid flowers are long-lived on the plants, they should not be harvested until needed. If these
are to be cut they should be stored at 5-7 C. At this temperature most orchid flowers can be stored for 10 to 14 days.
Plastic film storage is attractive and can be utilized.
PACKAGING
Packaging is another important aspect in the flower trade. If it is not done properly, the flowers may wither or
suffer mechanical injury during transit. An ideal package should be airtight, water proof, strong enough to withstand
handling and small in volume. Many ways are followed to pack orchid flowers. Cymbidium spikes are often packed 100
flowers to a box. Standard florist boxes are used for the packing of Cattleya floors. Hawaiian Dendrobium is packed in 4
dozen sprays per box. Keeping of a wet cotton at the cut end of the flower stem which is wrapped with a polythene
wrapper helps to maintain humidity.
VASE-LIFE
Orchid flowers, though long-lasting, should properly be handled to ensure minimum shelf life. Immediately after
arrival, the lower 0.75 cm. of the peduncle is cut off, and the flower is inserted into a fresh tube of water containing
preservative. In case of spray-type of orchids, the basal 2.5cm of the stem is cut upon arrival, placed in warm water at
38o C with a preservative and hardened off at 5o C. In cut-flower industry the major chemical environmental pollutant
affecting senescence is ethylene. Orchid flowers are very sensitive ethylene and proper management and control of
ethylene and ethylene like pollutants are important for the success of the industry.
Foliar application of aluminum chloride at 500ppm, ammonium molybdate at 100ppm or boric acid at 1000ppm
lengthened the vase-life of Oncidium foldiana. Hydroxy quinoline resulted in additional bloom opening of the flowers and
also increased the vase-life (Dong and Lim, 1983).
As with all other plants, orchids in the wild are subject to disease of various kinds as well as attacks by numerous
pests. Many of these diseases are transmitted into the greenhouse by imported orchids; others are introduced from
different sources. Healthy plants usually withstand infections and many a calamity can be prevented by high standards of
cleanliness in cultivation. Orchids are prone to a number of diseases caused by various agents like viruses, fungi,
bacteria, insect pests, etc.
Fortunately it can be said that, in general, orchids are quite hardy and less liable than other indoor plants to
catch disease or attract pests. Moreover, the advent of modern chemicals allows us to control most infections efficiently
or even prevent their occurrence. Preventive measures should be followed strictly and according to rules. Most fungi and
bacteria thrive under damp and soggy conditions, because invariably the spores need moisture for germination. Hence
over crowding should be avoided in orchid houses and facilities provided for free air circulation. Debris should not be
allow3ed to accumulate in the house or in its near vicinity. Watering, spraying, fogging etc should be done early in the
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day so that by night, when usually the temperature comes down, the plants may remain completely dry and relatively
impervious to attack by fungi or bacteria.
A clean plant environment is the best defense against pests and diseases; sterilize pots and tools and dispose of old
leaves and potting mixtures. Isolate or destroy infected plants. Provide good air circulation so that the leaves way gently,
and water plants early on sunny days when they will dry quickly. Careful weekly inspection with a strong magnifying glass
may alert you early on to illness or infestation. Remember to vary the kinds of insecticides and fungicides you use on
your plants in order to prevent the pest or disease from developing a resistance to a specific treatment. Always read the
chemical labels carefully, follow the instructions and observe all cautions.
The chart below identifies and illustrates types of damage to orchids and the various causes.
PEST/SYMPTOM CAUSE REMEDY
APHIDS: Leaves and stems appear Aphids are soft bodies plant lice less Wash off black fungus with water and
stunted; flowers may be malformed than 3mm long. Disease carries that mild kitchen detergent. Use an
or fail to open. Aphids are visible, suck sap. They have lump bodies, insecticide containing malathiion,
particularly on new growth. MOST narrow heads and a broad range of desis, nicotine or pyrethrum.
VULNERABLE: CATTLEYA, colours. Many are flying pests. All
ONCIDIUM, PHALAENOPSIS aphids secrete a shiny, sticky fluid
known as honeydew that invites ants
and an unsightly black fungus.
MEALY BUGS: Cottony masses Soft-bodied insects less than 6 mm Remove small infestations with a
especially infest points of juncture long. Mealy bugs have a white, cotton swab dipped in methylated
such as the crook between two powdery coat. They suck sap from spirits. On heavy infestations, use an
leaves. Plants may appear stunted stems, leaves and buds. The pests insecticide containing Malathion or
or shriveled. produce a sticky honeydew that nicotine.
MOST VULNERABLE: attracts ants and plays host to a
CATTLEYA, harmless but ill-appearing black
DENDROBIUM, PHALAENOPSIS fungus.
SCALES: Round or oval shell in Many species of scale insects infest Pick off small infestations with
brown, grey or white, often orchids, sucking their sap. Soft tweezers or a knife, or swab with
accompanied by a sooty mould. The scales are 2 to 8 mm long and methylated spirits. Spray adult
plant may be stunted, with leaves produce honeydew. Armoured scales with an insecticide containing
yellowing and falling off. scales are less than 3mm long and Malathion or nicotine.
MOST VULNERABLE: have a tough shell but do not
CATTLEYA, produce honeydew. Scales crawl to
CYMBIDIUM, PAHIOPEDILUM, one spot where they remain.
MILTONIA, ZYGOPETALUM
SLUGS AND SNAILS: Snails are 1.2 to 5 cm long; slugs A tuft of cotton wool around the stem
The plant is punctured with ragged may reach 12.5cm. Both are legless will protect flowers. Trap snails and
holes, and a slimy trail is visible mollusks that generally hide during slugs with pesticide bait containing
where pests have passed. the day and emerge at night to feed metaldehyde or methiocarb. Or lure
VULNERABLE: ALL ORCHIDS, on foliage, buds, flowers and root slugs at night into a saucer of beer to
ESPECIALLY SEEDLINGS. tips. The pests generally lay their drown.
eggs in damp areas or in the potting
mixtures.
SPIDER MITES: Leaves appear Less than 0.5mm long, spider mites Scrub and rinse foliage with warm
pitted or stipped with white. A white may be seen by tapping a leaf over a water to break up webs. Spray
webbing may show on the underside piece of paper so that they fall off. Or heavy infestations with pesticide
of the leaves. touch a leaf with cellophane tape, containing malathion or derris.
MOST VULNERABLE; CYMBIDIUM, then examine the tape with a
DENDROBIU, magnifying glass. Normally, spider
PHALAENOPSIS. mites suck sap only from the
undersides of leaves.
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DISEASES
As a general rule:
1) Apply fungicides and insecticides early in the morning or late in the evening.
2) Use a fine nozzle for spraying.
3) Heavily infected plants should be discarded and burnt, and should not be used as propagating material.
Floriculture has emerged as a major area in the agribusiness in the recent years. India produces annually about
2.07 lakh metric tons of lose flowers and 50 crore number of cut flowers worth over Rs. 300 crores. The international
trade on floriculture is estimated at about five billion dollars per annum, of which India‟s share is only 10 million dollars.
Though India‟s presence in the world market has been negligible, it is all set to expand rapidly with increased production
and addition of new items of orchids.
At present Orchid cut flower trade is a multi-million dollar business. The cut flowers of species like Cymbidium,
Paphipedilum, Phalaenopsis, Cattleyas and Dendrobiums have a tremendous market in USA and Europe. It is estimated
that two hundred million Cattleya flowers are sold annually in American market. Some of the developing countries like
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Malaysia. Singapore, Thailand and Sri Lanka are fast catching up the international market and run the cut flower industry
on c0-operative basis they pool the collections and export them to Europe, Japan and U.S.A. a few orchids figure
prominently as State or National flowers. E.g. Cypripedium reginae by Minnesota and Cattleya skinneri by Cost Rica.
Through commercial orchid cut flower nurseries provide under 3% of the world cut flowers they earn
considerable foreign exchange profit for many countries. The Netherlands is the only European country with a sizeable
orchid export industry. In 1993, the Netherlands exported 51.8 million stems of orchids valued at 77.4 million.
Phalaenopsis orchids were the 14th most popular cut flowers sold in Dutch auctions in 1993 with sales exceeding 12.8
millions. More than 3,600 tons of Dendrobiums were sent to Europe in 1993 from Thailand and more from Singapore.
Dendrobium orchids accounted for 3.2 million dollars of sales in Dutch auction market; but most were imported directly
whole sale distributions in France, Germany, England and Italy.
The largest importer of tropical cut orchids in Europe in Italy, importing about 21,43,425 kgs in 1993 and
30,00,725 kgs in 1996. Germany is the second largest importer of tropical orchids in Europe with 4, 78,446 kilos.
The growth and popularity of orchids is gaining lot of importance in our country due to the high rate of return. An
initial investment of Rs. 35,000 for say about 500 plants @ Rs. 70/- per plant) in a green house of just 150 sq. ft will yield
an annual income of Rs. 37,000 once the plants starts flowering after about 18-20 months. Each plant giving about 10
healthy flower stalks sold at an average rate of Rs. 10/- per stalk. This works out to be a profitable return of about 100%.
What prevents farmers in large scale cultivation is the high cost of plants. A plant costs Rs. 70 and to own even
100 plants a sum of 7,000 is necessary. Besides there is initial investment in Agro net cover, special pots, and iron pot
stands. Realizing the credit need and considering the immense potential for orchid cultivation, NABARD has formulated a
model scheme for refinancing under this scheme, banks will provide loans up to Rs. 15,000 without any collateral security
for three years at 12.5% interest. Loan repayment will start only after one year, when plants start yielding. State Bank of
India alone has financed 1,50,000 plants in the Ernakulam District in Kerala. The Ernakulam District Consultative
Committee headed by the District Collector has identified orchid cultivation as a thrust area for credit support and
women‟s programme.
INSURANCE:
A Comprehensive insurance scheme, the first of its kind in India was implemented by New India Assurance Co.
Ltd. To provide security to the small orchid growers. The scheme is unique in the sense that apart from natural
calamities, it covers pests and diseases also. For a grower with less than 1,000 plants, premium is only three percent of
the insured amount for two years. For more than 1,000 plants, premium 3.5 percent.
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INTRODUCTION
India is bestowed with natural resources and diverse agro-climatic situation, which provides large
scope for production of best quality flowers and vegetables. Flowers have been intimately associated with
mankind since time immemorial by way of religious offerings and social ceremonies. But flowers as a
commodity of a trade are only 5-6 decade old (Singh, 2005).
Flowers are highly valued floricultural products with high export potentiality. The world consumption of
floriculture produce is worth of US $ 12064 million, out of which the share of cut flowers is approximately US $
5371 million. Indian share in the world market is about US $ 17 million for cut flowers
(www.unionfluers.org,2006). The flowers like rose, carnation, chrysanthemum, gerbera and orchids are in high
demand in international market. The grading of these flowers is normally done on the basis of flower quality,
which is judged by color, appearance, stalk length and straightness and bloom regularity.
In rose, large flowered varieties with stalk length of 60-90 cm and whorl size of 3-5 cm without any
deformities are preferred in international market. Similarly, in standard type of carnation, tight unopened flower
buds having 55 cm stem length and 7 cm bud size are harvested for export market as specified by Society of
American Florists (www. Apeda. com, 2006).
India stands second in the world after China with respect to vegetable production. At present India is
exporting fresh vegetable to the tune of 939.70 crores (Gandhi, 2005). Among the vegetables, onions. okra,
chilli, tomato, potato, garlic, beans and peas are the major crops being exported from India to other countries.
Fresh yellow or brown onions with 100-110g weight and 7-10 cm in diameter having low pungency and better
TSS (10-12%) are ideal for exporting to Japan market, while light to dark red onions with strong pungency and
high TSS (12-14 %) are preferred in Srilanka. Similarly, cultivars like Clemson Spineless and Annie Oakley in
okra having green color, smooth surface and low ridged immature fruits with 4-10 cm in length are preferred in
European countries (www.freshfel.org, 2006).
Floriculture Exports Reported by the Indian Government Global Trade Atlas Navigator (GTA) July 25,
2005 is $17 million of cut flowers and $5 million in Live Plants, Cuttings and slips.
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Germany, USA, UK, France and Netherlands together contribute more than 50 per cent of world import
of cut flowers.
Table 4. Global export trends of cut flowers by country (in US $ million)
Table 4 indicates that around 50 per cent of world cut flower export is contributed by Netherlands alone
followed by Colombia, Italy and Belgium.
QUALITY STANDARDS FOR IMPORTANT CUT FLOWERS FOR EXPORT
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CONCLUSION
In the present days of fast changing urban social system and global village concept, quality of flowers
play an important role. Hence, there will be enhanced demand for these commodities in future too. India has
good potentiality for export of cut flowers provided some of the constraints faced by the Indian exporters are
tackled effectively.
CONSTRAINTS FACED BY INDIAN EXPORTERS
a. Higher air freight
Air freight for vegetables and flower export from India to gulf countries and U.K., etc., is very
high compared to Kenya, Jordan, Lebanon etc. This is one of the major bottlenecks in increasing the
export.
b. Restriction in the export
Many times because of failure of a particular crop and increased local demand the export has
to be restricted. This does not allow regular export due to which we loose many foreign markets.
c. Non- availability of suitable varieties
In onion we do not have production of yellow onions which are in demand in European and
Japanese markets.
d. No proper packing of the produce
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In many vegetables open mesh jute bags are still being used whereas preference is there for
open mesh plastic woven bags. The corrugated fibre board boxes, being used at present, also do not
have required strength and thus are damaged in transit.
e. No proper space for handling
Cold storage facilities at parts or airports do not exist. Adequate handling space also does not
exist. This results in damage to stock.
f. Inadequate research and development backup
Not much export oriented R and D programmes are being taken up in vegetables. The quality
of the produce is, therefore not uniform as per the requirement of foreign markets. Lot of labour is thus
wasted in sorting and grading of the produce.
Pesticide Residual Testing Laboratories in India
Industrial toxicological research centre – Lucknow
Central food lab – Kolkata
Central food technological research institute – Mysore
National Institute for nutrition – Hyderabad
Central grain storage institute – Hapur
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IEC Code is unique 10 digit code issued by DGFT – Director General of Foreign Trade , Ministry of
Commerce, Government of India to Indian Companies.
Full form of IEC Code is: “Importer Exporter Code”. To import or export in India, IEC Code is
mandatory. No person or entity shall make any Import or Export without IEC Code Number.
Eligibility condition and Legal Provisions are given for IEC Code Number Application in Foreign Trade
(Regulation) Rules, 1993 Ministry of Commerce, Notification No. GSR 791 (E), dated 30-12-1993.
An application for grant of IEC number shall be made by the Registered/Head Office of the applicant
and apply to the nearest Regional Authority of Directorate General Foreign Trade, the Registered office
in case of company and Head office in case of others, falls in the „Aayaat Niryaat Form - ANF2A‟ and
shall be accompanied by documents prescribed therein. In case of STPI/ EHTP/ BTP units, the
Regional Offices of the DGFT having jurisdiction over the district in which the Registered/ Head Office
of the STPI unit is located shall issue or amend the IECs.
Only one IEC would be issued against a single PAN number. Any proprietor can have only one IEC
number and in case there are more than one IECs allotted to a proprietor, the same may be
surrendered to the Regional Office for cancellation.
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The application can be download Form in PDF or Word. This is called "Aayaat Niryaat Form -
ANF2A". Along with IEC Code Number Application Form it is necessary to submit Appendix-18B
Attested by Applicant's Banker in his letter head with two passport size photo).
List Of Regional Authorities Of DGFT And The Corresponding Office of Reserve Bank Of
India, Exchange Control Department
You can find the list of Foreign Exchange Control Department of the RBI as given in Appendix-18D.
Validity of IEC No
An IEC number allotted to an applicant shall be valid for all its branches/divisions/units/factories as
indicated in the format of IEC given in Appendix- 18B.
Where an IEC Number is lost or misplaced, the issuing authority may consider requests for grant of a
duplicate copy of IEC number, if accompanied by an affidavit.
If an IEC holder does not wish to operate the allotted IEC number, he may surrender the same by
informing the issuing authority. On receipt of such intimation, the issuing authority shall immediately
cancel the same and electronically transmit it to DGFT for onward transmission to the Customs and
Regional Authorities.
Mode of Payment : In Demand Draft of any Bank or Payment through EFT ( Electronic Fund Transfer
by Nominated Bank by DGFT Like HDFC Bank, ICICI Bank, State Bank of India, UTI Bank, Punjab
National Bank, Central Bank etc) or Application fee can deposited by TR6 Challan with Duplicate Copy
in any branch of Central Bank of India and TR6 Challan need to be submit along with IEC Code
Application.
Specified fee shall be paid for making an application under any provision of the Policy and Handbook of
Procedure Volume-I.. The scale of fee, mode of payment, procedure for refund of fee and the
categories of persons exempted from the payment of fee are contained in Appendix-21B.
Every application, unless otherwise specified, shall be submitted to the Regional Authority of Directorate General
Foreign Trade, as per the territorial jurisdiction of the Regional authorities indicated in Policy and Handbook of
Procedure Volume-I.
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Filing of Application
Application can be filed online in DGFT website, details of online links are given below.
Every application for an Import/Export licence/ certificate/ Authorisation/ permission or any other purpose should
be complete in all respects as required under the relevant provisions of the Policy/Procedures and shall be
signed by the applicant as defined in paragraph 9.9 of the Policy. An incomplete application is liable to be
rejected giving specific reason for rejection. However in case of manual applications, the applicant would furnish
a soft copy of the application in MS word format.
Each Importer/Exporter shall be required to file importer/ exporter profile once with the Regional Authority in Part
1 of „Aayaat Niryaat Form - ANF2A‟. Regional Authority shall enter the information furnished in Part 1 of „Aayaat
Niryaat Form ANF-2A‟ in their database so as to dispense with the need for asking the repetitive information. In
case of any change in the information given in Part 1 of „Aayaat Niryaat Form ANF-2A‟, importer/exporter shall
intimate the same to the Regional Authority.
The applicant shall furnish a self addressed envelope of 40 x 15 cm with postal stamp affixed on the envelope as
follows for all documents required to be sent by Speed Post:
The following categories of importers or exporters are exempted from obtaining Importer - Exporter Code (IEC)
number:
0. Importers covered by clause 3 (1) [except sub-clauses (e) and (l)] and exporters covered by clause 3(2)
[except sub-clauses (i) and (k)] of the Foreign Trade (Exemption from application of Rules in certain cases)
Order, 1993.
1. Ministries/Departments of the Central or State Government.
2. Persons importing or exporting goods for personal use not connected with trade or manufacture or
agriculture.
3. Persons importing/exporting goods from/to Nepal provided the CIF value of a single consignment does not
exceed Indian Rs.25,000.
4. Persons importing/exporting goods from/to Myanmar through Indo-Myanmar border areas provided the CIF
value of a single consignment does not exceed Indian Rs.25,000.
However, the exemption from obtaining Importer-Exporter Code (IEC) number shall not be applicable for the
export of Special Chemicals, Organisms, Materials, Equipments and Technologies (SCOMET) as listed in
Appendix- 3, Schedule 2 of the ITC(HS) except in the case of exports by category(ii) above.
5. The following permanent IEC numbers shall be used by the categories of importers/ exporters mentioned
against them for import/ export purposes.
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6.
Note: Commercial Public Sector Undertaking (PSU) who have obtained PAN will however be
required to obtain Importer Exporter Code number. The permanent IEC number as mentioned
above, shall be used by non-commercial PSUs.
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PLANT PROTECTION CHEMICALS FOR CONTROLLING PESTS AND DISEASES UNDER PROTECTED
CULTIVATION
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1. M/s INDO Bloom Ltd. Empire Infantry, 13 M/s Blooming Meadows Ltd.
3rd Floor, 9 Infantry Road, No.120, West, Trinity Woods,
Bangalore – 560 001. Ph. 22860792 Near Bellandur Gate, Sarjapura Road,
Bangalore-560 034,Telefax: 5720261 / 572 1987
2. M/s Vasavi Florex Ltd. 202, 2nd Floor, 14 M/s IDL Chemicals Ltd.
House of Lords, St. Marks Road, P.O No. 397, Chowdiah Road, 18th Cross,
Bangalore – 1 Malleswaram, Bangalore – 560 003,
Ph.: 22231710, 22247728, 22245998 Ph.:23314866, 2223345617
3. M/s Megana Floritech Ltd. No. 372, 12th Cross 15 M/s Crystal Agritech Ltd.
5th Main, R.M.V. 2nd Stage, Gollahali Vilalge, Nelamangala,
Bangalore – 560 094, Bangalore Rural District,
Ph. : 23511343, Fax: 23512185. Ph. 23438878
4 M/s. Majesty Floritech Ltd. 16 M/s Manjushree Plantation Ltd.
367, Cottonpet, Kolar – 563 101 14th Floor, „A‟ Wing Mittal Towers,
Ph.: 08152-222105 M.G. Road, Bangalore – 560 001,
Ph: 25594430
5 M/s. Sachin Floritech Ltd. 17 M/s Scarlet Flowers & Agritech Pvt. Ltd.
18, East Trinity Woods, Sarjapura Road, # 248, 2nd Main, J.P. Nagar, 3rd Phase,
Bangalore – 560 034 Bangalore – 560 078 ; Ph: 8463878
Ph. 25720746, 25725917, Fax:25721894
6 M/s. Indus Flora Base Ltd. 18 M/s C.C.L. Flowers
No. 1088, Hall 2nd Stage, 12th Cross, Kodiyalam Vilalge, Hosur Tq.
Bangalore – 560 008 Tamil Nadu; Ph: 04344 254557; 254707
7 M/s Jagadle Industries Ltd. 19 M/s Floritech India Limited,
No. 27, Bull Temple Road, #13, 4th Main Rad, (Sumangali Seva Ashrama Road),
Basavanagudi, Bangalore – 560 004 1st Floor, (Above Dr. Chikkalingaiah), Hebbal,
Bangalore, Telefax: 3544651 – 27661059
Ph. 26508310
8 M/s Good Technolgies 20 M/s Asian Flora,
22/A. Cambridge Road, 1st Floor Ulsoor, # 2519, Law Casa, 5th Main, 4th Cross, BDA Layout,
Bangalore – 560 008 HAL 2nd Stage, Konena Agarahara, Bangalore – 560
Ph.: 25365145 017
9 M/s Edin Flori Agro, 21 M/s Blooms & Greens Pvt. Ltd., No. 609, „Baston
40/1, 2nd Floor, S&B Towers, Centre‟ No. 84, M.G. Road, Bangalore – 560 001, Ph.
30610701, 25596333
M.G. Road, Bangalore; Ph. 25586372
10 M/s. Zygo Flowers Ltd. 22 Sunrise Chambers R 101 & 102, 1st Floor, No. 22,
26/A, 1st Block, 2nd Stage, Ulsoor Road,
R.M.V. Extension, Bangalore Ph. 23411336 Bangalore – 560 042
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11 M/s. Rossette Agro Tech Ltd. 23 M/s Optimal Connection B.V. P.O. Box 1000, 1430 BA
No. 14, MSH Layout, Anand Nagar, Aalsmeer The Netherlands.
4th Main, Bangalore – 560 024,
Ph. 23630571
12 M/s Nupur Bio-tech Ltd. 24 M/s Span Floritech Pvt. Ltd. 252, HAL III Stage,
83, 80 Feet Main Road, Bangalore – 560 075,
R.M.V. Extention 2nd Stage, Phone: 7723060 / 98440 20608,
Bangalore – 560 094, Ph: 23414117 E-mail: [email protected].
25 M/s Tanflora Infrastructure Park Ltd. No. 834, 7th 26 M/s Sigma Blooms Ltd.
Main, 2nd Cross, HAL 2nd Stage, Indiranagar, Railway Gollahali, Nelamangala Taluk, Bangalore
Bangalore – 560 008, Rural District.
Ph: 5202446/7/8, Fax: 520449 Bangalore – 562 123
27 M/s SIP Industries Ltd. 28 M/s Pushpam Flora Base Pvt. Ltd. 191, 1st Block East,
No. 2565, 16th „D‟ Main Road, HAL II Byrasandra, Jayanagar, Bangalore – 560 011,
Stage, Indiranagar, Bangalore-560 008, Ph: 26632020, Fax: 26553757
Ph. 25202316
29 M/s Karuturi Floritech Ltd. 30 M/s HI-Tech Agro Plantation Ltd. No. 38, 2nd Main
203, Embassy Centre, Road, Amariyothi, Cholanagar, Bangalore – 560 032
11, Cresent Road, Bangalore – 560 001 Oh: 3336565
Ph: 2257470, 22259470, 2351181/2/3
31 Suvarna Florex Limited, 32 M/s SPIC – ABC, Siruvani Road,
No. 298, 15th B Main Road, 3rd Sector, HSR Chitrahavadi, Coimbatore – 641101
Layout, Bangalore – 560 034
Telefax No. 5725 220, 5725223
33 M/s Nagarjuna Agritech Ltd. 34 M/s SPIC Ltd.
HIG 90, IA, Main Road, New Yelahanka Town, Biotechnology Division, Pooluvapatti
Bangalore – 560 064 Village, Siruvani Road,
Ph. 28462829 Coimbatore - 641101
35 M/s Pochiraju Floritech Ltd. 36 M/s Sun Blossom Ltd.
5/9-E, Sapthagiri Nagar, Teachers Colony, Batuvaripalli Village, Bagulu, Husur Taluk, Hosur –
Hosur – 635 109 04344 - 254295
Ph: 954344 255044
37 M/s SPA Agro Pvt. Ltd., 38 M/s Camson Agritech Ltd.
342, Raheja Arcade, Koramangala, 233, 1st Main, Domlur 2nd Stage,
Bangalore – 560 095;Ph: 25520187/189 Bangalore – 560 071, Ph: 25355138, 25352232
39 M/s. Classic Biotech Exports Ltd.
223/B, 13th „A‟ Cross, New Ylahanka Town,
Bangalore – 560 064, Ph: 28463301.
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