~ $H125/150, Dylan 125/150,

@125/150, PS125/150,
Pantheon 125/150, S-wing 125/150
- 2000 to 2009
Haynes Service and Repair Manual

“Haynes Manuals just cannotbe beaten”

Motor Cycle News : |
 | CKSHIRE COLLEGE_ae

Mi
inWARWI

A007

Honda 125/150 Scooters

service and Repair Manual
by Matthew Coombs Vo“ cara
Models covered ke (4873 - 272)
SH125/150 2001 to 2004 giegee C ~« lies a
SH125/150i 2005-on aev get ao \
Dylan 125/150 2002 to 2008 Woe eo \
@125/150 2000 to 2006 Sie )
PS125/150i 2006-on Me yn ae se
Pantheon 125/150 2003 to 2006 By adh
S-wing 125/150 2007-on 4 eros

ai fimy WYnvr.
ih | A iLeta
ABCDE 4 \ ANN
q anit
o AS ie bes ee eget

sane Kanthrane Ly
Wi oS aee a Pe Aa
© Haynes Publishing 2010

A book in the Haynes Service and Repair Manual Series ae

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or Printed in the USA
transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical,
including photocopying, recording or by any information storage or Haynes Publishing
retrieval system, without permission in writing from the copyright Sparkford, Yeovil, Somerset BA22 7JJ, England
holder.
Haynes North America, Inc
ISBN 978 1 84425 873 4 861 Lawrence Drive, Newbury Park, California 91320, USA

British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data Haynes Publishing Nordiska AB

A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library. Box 1504, 751 45 UPPSALA, Sverige

629g,
ae
LIVING WITH YOUR SCOOTER
Introduction Page 004
Acknowledgements Page 094
About this manual ; Page 004
Identification numbers and Buying spare parts Page 095
Safety first! Page 0°6

Pre-ride checks
Engine oil level check Page 007
Coolant level check Page 0e8
Brake fluid level check Page 0:9
Tyres checks Page 0e10
Suspension and steering checks Page 0*10
Legal and safety checks Page 0¢10

MAINTENANCE
Routine maintenance and servicing
Model specifications and service schedules Page 1¢2
Routine maintenance and servicing procedures Page 1°18
REPAIRS AND OVERHAUL
Engine, transmission and associated systems
Engine Page 2e1
Transmission Page 3e1
Cooling system Page 4e1
Fuel and exhaust systems — carburettor engines Page 5Ae1
Fuel injection system Page 5Be1
Ignition system Page 601

Chassis components
Frame and suspension Page 7e1
Brakes, wheels and tyres Page 8e1
Bodywork Page 921

Electrical system Page 1001

Wiring diagrams Page 10°28

Tools and workshop tips Page REFe1

Conversion factors Page REFe16
Fault Finding Page REFe17

Index Page REFe25

oe4 INtroduction

The 2009 SH125i The PS125i

Honda’s success with the step-thru lightweight an ideal commuter vehicle, cheap to run and wheels. Both remained in the range, without
motorcycle can be traced right back to the Cub capable of keeping up with mainstream traffic change, until discontinued in 2006 and 2008
models which first appeared in the late fifties. speed. respectively.
The Cub range, and in particular the C90, is The SH125 continued without change until The PES125/150 models, or simply PS as
a legend in two-wheeled circles and even 2005 when stricter emission laws forced the their bodywork decals show, were introduced in
today still provides many people around the fitting of fuel injection for many motorcycles 2006 and superseded the @ and Dylan models.
world with an economic form of transport. In and scooters over 50cc. The PGM-FI injection All PS models were fitted with Honda’s PGM-FI
April 2008 Honda celebrated 50 years of Cub system was the same as already fitted to the fuel injected engine and used the cable-
production and announced that a staggering 125/150cc Pantheon models. Cosmetically, operated linked braking system employed
60 million units had been produced since the redesigned bodywork and clear lens turn on other rear drum brake models. Apart from
first C100 model in 1958! signals gave the scooter a fresh look. colour and graphic updates they remained
So many of the current scooter designs After another four years, a further round of unchanged during their production range.
have their routes in the Cub range, and of improvements resulted in new bodywork Large-bodied scooters are now common
the models covered in this manual the SH125 and lighting, a new front brake caliper, and a in most manufacturers’ ranges and provide
best emulates the qualities of the original rear disc brake option (together with linked the serious commuter with good storage
design with its large diameter 13 inch wheels braking); the lesser priced rear drum brake capacity, comfort and weather protection. The
and open style step-thru bodywork. The SH model remained in the range and was dubbed Pantheon and the S-wing which superseded it,
prefix was first used on the 50cc two-stroke the SH125/150-D. — use the same fuel injected engine and variable
City Express produced from the mid 1980s The NES @ and SES Dylan models were transmission fitted to the SH and PS models,
to 2002. As a 125, fitted with the 124.7cc produced alongside the SH. They used the but are physically much bigger, and heavier,
four-stroke engine developed for the @125 the same engine and transmission unit, but were scooters. Linked disc brakes are fitted front
previous year, the UK SH125 (or SH150 as it styled in typical scooter mould, with fuller and rear, and there is an option of ABS on the
was in other European countries) proved to be bodywork and smaller diameter 13 inch S-wing.

Acknowledgements
Our thanks are due to Bransons Motorcycles scooters featured in the photographs throughout spark plug condition photos, Avon Tyres for
of Yeovil, V & J Motorcycles of Yeovil, Fowlers this manual. We would also like to thank NGK supplying the tyre sidewall illustration and Draper
of Bristol and Gina Deacon who supplied the Spark Plugs (UK) Ltd for supplying the colour Tools Ltd for some of the workshop tools shown.

About this Manual

The aim of this manual is to help you get the appointment to get the scooter into a dealer We take great pride in the accuracy of
best value from your scooter. It can do so in and making the trips to leave it and pick it information given in this manual, but
several ways. It can help you decide what work up. More importantly, a lot of money can manufacturers make alterations and design
must be done, even if you choose to have be saved by avoiding the expense the shop
it done by a dealer; it provides information changes during the production run of
must pass on to you to cover its labour and
and procedures for routine maintenance and overhead costs. An added benefit is the sense machines about which they do not inform
servicing; and it offers diagnostic and repair of satisfaction and accomplishment that you us. No liability can be accepted by the
procedures to follow when trouble occurs. feel after doing the job yourself. authors or publishers for loss, damage or
We hope you use the manual to tackle the References to the left or right side of the injury caused by any errors in, or omissions
work yourself. For many simpler jobs, doing scooter assume you are sitting on the seat, from, the information given.
it yourself may be quicker than arranging an facing forward.

Illegal Copying
It is the policy of Haynes Publishing to actively protect its Copyrights and Trade Marks. Legal action will be taken against
anyone who unlawfully
copies the cover or contents of this Manual. This includes all forms of unauthorised copying including digital, mechanical, and electronic
in any
form. Authorisation from Haynes Publishing will only be provided expressly and in writing. Illegal copying will also be reported
to the appropriate
statutory authorities.
 Identification numbers and buying spare parts oes
code: Production Frame and engine numbers
year The frame serial number, or VIN (Vehicle
a. 1 2001/2002 Identification Number) as it is often known,
is stamped into the frame, and also appears
on the identification (VIN) plate. The engine
number is stamped into either the rear of the
transmission casing or the left-hand side of
the crankcase, depending on model. Both of
these numbers should be recorded and kept
in a safe place so they can be furnished to law
enforcement officials in the event of a theft.
2009 The frame number is stamped into the
The frame and engine numbers should also
— 2001/2002 — be kept in a handy place (such as with your frame on the right-hand side...
2003 driving licence) so they are always available
Sadoe 9 when purchasing or ordering parts for your
2005 scooter.
‘SH150i
2006 Ren . :
A colour code label is stuck to the inside
hoes 2007 of the storage compartment under the seat —
ei this will be needed if ordering colour matched
parts.
SH1501 2009
The procedures in this manual identify
2009 models by their model name and production
2002 year (e.g. 2003 Pantheon), or by whether they
eine 2003 have a carburettor or fuel injection system, or
Dylan 125 SES125-4 2004 to 2008 by the engine size and/or model code (e.g.
Dylani50 =SES150-2 2002 FES125-3) — refer to the list below for details.
Dylan150 SES150-3 2003 The model code and production year are on
Dylan150 =-SES150-4 2004 to 2008 the VIN plate.
@ 125 NES125-Y 2000
125 NES125-1 2001 Buying spare parts
NES125-2 2002 When ordering replacement parts, it is
- NES125-3 2003 essential to identify exactly the model for
NES125-4 2004 which the parts are required. While in some
@- - NES125-5 =2005 cases it is sufficient to identify the machine
@ 125 NES125-6 2006 by its title e.g. ‘Dylan 125’, any modifications
@150 ~~ NES150-Y 2000 made to components mean that it is usually
@ 150, NES150-1 2001 essential to identify the scooter by its year
of production, or better still by its frame or The engine number is stamped into either
@150 ~——~‘NES150-2 =.2002 engine number prefix. the rear of the transmission casing.
@150 ~ NES150-3 2003 To be absolutely certain of receiving the
@150. ~—*NES150-4_ = 2004 correct part, not only is it essential to have
@ 150 NES150-5 2005 as the scooter engine or frame number prefix to
@ise = NESI50-6 ©2006. hand, but it is also useful to take the old part
PS125i PES125-6 2006 — for comparison (where possible). Note that
PS{25i = «PES125-7. 2007. where a modified component has superseded
PS125i PES125-8 2008 the original, a careful check must be made
that there are no related parts which have also
PSi25i — PES125-9 2009 iit”
been modified and must be used to enable
PS150i PES150-6 2006
the replacement to be correctly refitted;
PSi50i = +=PES150-7 =2007 where such a situation is found, purchase all
PS150i_ PES150-8 2008 the necessary parts and fit them, even if this
PS150i += PES150-9 2009 means replacing apparently unworn items.
Pantheon 125 FES125-3 2003 Purchase replacement parts from an
Pantheon 125 FES125-4 2004 authorised Honda dealer or someone who
Pantheon i FES125-5 2005/2006 specialises in scooter parts; they are more
0 FES150-3 2003 likely to have the parts in stock or can order
FES150-4 2004 them quickly from the importer. Pattern parts
2005/2006 may be available for certain components; if
2007/2008 used, ensure these are of recognised quality
” 9007/2008 brands which will perform as well as the
2009 original. !
‘ Expendable items such as lubricants, spark
2009 plugs, bearings, bulbs and tyres can usually
2007/ 2008 be obtained at lower prices from accessory :
2007/2008 shops, motor factors or from specialists 4 eolour code label (arrowed) is stuck on
2009 . advertising in the national motorcycle the helmet storage compartment under
L042 ie press. the seat
o6 Safety first!
Professional mechanics are trained in safe @ Always disconnect the battery earth ® Always disconnect the battery ground
working procedures. However enthusiastic terminal before working on any part of the fuel (earth) terminal before working on the fuel or
you may be about getting on with the job at or electrical system, and never risk spilling electrical systems (except where noted).
hand, take the time to ensure that your safety fuel on to a hot engine or exhaust. @ if possible, loosen the filler plugs or cover
is not put at risk. A moment’s lack of attention ® I\t is recommended that a fire extinguisher when charging the battery from an external
can result in an accident, as can failure to of a type suitable for fuel and electrical fires source. Do not charge at an excessive rate or
observe simple precautions. is kept handy in the garage or workplace at the battery may burst.
There will always be new ways of having all times. Never try to extinguish a fuel or @ Take care when topping up, cleaning or
accidents, and the following is not a electrical fire with water. carrying the battery. The acid electrolyte,
comprehensive list of all dangers; it is intended evenwhen diluted, is very corrosive and
rather to make you aware of the risks and to Fumes should not be allowed to contact the eyes or
encourage a safe approach to all work you @ Certain fumes are highly toxic and can skin. Always wear rubber gloves and goggles
carry out on your bike. quickly cause unconsciousness and even or a face shield. If you ever need to prepare
death if inhaled to any extent. Petrol vapour electrolyte yourself, always add the acid
Asbestos comes into this category, as do the vapours slowly to the water; never add the water to the
@® Certain friction, insulating, sealing and from certain solvents such as trichloro- acid.
other products - such as brake pads, clutch ethylene. Any draining or pouring of such
linings, gaskets, etc. - contain asbestos. volatile fluids should be done in a well Electricity
Extreme care must be taken to avoid ventilated area. @® When using an electric power tool,
inhalation of dust from such products since @ When using cleaning fluids and solvents, inspection light etc., always ensure that the
it is hazardous to health. If in doubt, assume read the instructions carefully. Never use appliance is correctly connected to its plug and
that they do contain asbestos. materials from unmarked containers - they that, where necessary, it is properly grounded
may give off poisonous vapours. (earthed). Do not use such appliances in damp
Fire @ Never run the engine of a motor vehicle in conditions and, again, beware of creating a
@ Remember at all times that petrol is highly an enclosed space such as a garage. Exhaust spark or applying excessive heat in the vicinity
flammable. Never smoke or have any kind of fumes contain carbon monoxide which is of fuel or fuel vapour. Also ensure that the
naked flame around, when working on the extremely poisonous; if you need to run the appliances meet national safety standards.
vehicle. But the risk does not end there - a engine, always do so in the open air or at @ A severe electric shock can result from
spark caused by an electrical short-circuit, least have the rear of the vehicle outside the touching certain parts of the electrical
by two metal surfaces contacting each other, workplace. system, such as the spark plug wires (HT
by careless use of tools, or even by static leads), when the engine is running or being
electricity built up in your body under certain The battery cranked, particularly if components are
conditions, can ignite petrol vapour, which in a @ Never cause a spark, or allow a naked damp or the insulation is defective. Where
confined space is highly explosive. Never use light near the vehicle’s battery. It will normally an electronic ignition system is used, the
petrol as a cleaning solvent. Use an approved be giving off a certain amount of hydrogen secondary (HT) voltage is much higher and
safety solvent. gas, which is highly explosive. could prove fatal.

Remember... X Don’t lift a heavy component which may

be beyond your capability - get assistance.
and long hair) well out of the way of moving
mechanical parts.
* Don’t rush to finish a job or take VY Do remove rings, wristwatch etc., before
¥ Don’t start the engine without first unverified short cuts. working on the vehicle - especially the
ascertaining that the transmission is in X Don’t allow children or animals in or electrical system.
neutral. around an unattended vehicle. V Do keep your work area tidy - it is only too
X Don’t suddenly remove the pressure cap * Don’t inflate a tyre above the easy to fall over articles left lying around.
from a hot cooling system - cover it with a recommended pressure. Apart from
cloth and release the pressure gradually v¥ Do exercise caution when compressing
overstressing the carcass, in extreme cases springs for removal or installation. Ensure
first, or you may get scalded by escaping the tyre may blow off forcibly.
coolant. that the tension is applied and released in
Y¥ Do ensure that the machine is supported
¥ Don’t attempt to drain oil until you are a controlled manner, using suitable tools |
securely at all times. This is especially
sure it has cooled sufficiently to avoid which preclude the possibility of the spring
important when the machine is blocked up
scalding you. escaping violently. ©
to aid wheel or fork removal.
¥ Don’t grasp any part of the engine or V Do ensure that any lifting tackle used hae
¥ Do take care when attempting to loosena
exhaust system without first ascertaining stubborn nut or bolt. It is generally better to a safe working load rating adequate for the
| that it is cool enough not to burn you. job.
pull on a spanner, rather than push, so that
¥ Don’t allow brake fluid or antifreeze to if you slip, you fall away from the machine v Do get someone to check periodically
contact the machine’s paintwork or plastic rather than onto it. that all is well, when working alone on the
components. Y Do wear eye protection when using vehicle.
X Don’t siphon toxic liquids such as fuel, power tools such as drill, sander, bench V Do carry out work in a logical sequence
hydraulic fluid or antifreeze by mouth, or grinder etc. and check that everything is correctly
allow them to remain on your skin. v¥ Do use a barrier cream on your hands assembled and tightened afterwards.
X Don’t inhale dust- it may be injurious to prior to undertaking dirty jobs - it will protect Vv Do remember that your vehicle’s safety
health (see Asbestos heading). your skin from infection as well as making affects that of yourself and others. If in
¥ Don’t allow any spilled oil or grease to the dirt easier to remove afterwards; but doubt on any point, get professional advice.
remain on the floor - wipe it up right away, make sure your hands aren’t left slippery. @ If in spite of following these precautions,
before someone slips on it. Note that long-term contact with used you are unfortunate enough to injure
¥ Don’t use ill-fitting spanners or other engine oil can be a health hazard. yourself, seek medical attention as soon as_
tools which may slip and cause injury. Vv Do keep loose clothing (cuffs, ties etc. possible. <
 Pre-ride checks o-7
Note: The Pre-ride checks outlined in your Owner’s Handbook cover those items which should be inspected before riding the scooter.

Engine oil level check

The correct oil Caution: Do not use chemical additives or Caution: Do not run the engine in an
@ Modern, high-revving engines place great oils labelled ‘ENERGY CONSERVING’. enclosed space such as a garage or
demands on their oil. It is very important that “If you are using the scooter constantly in workshop.
extreme conditions of heat or cold, other Y Stop the engine and leave it for a few
the correct oil for your bike is used.
more suitable viscosity ranges may be used — minutes for the oil level to stabilise.
@ Always top up with a good quality
refer to the viscosity table to select the oil best
motorcycle/scooter oil of the specified type
and viscosity and do not overfill the engine.
suited to your conditions. Scooter care
Do not use engine oil designed for car use. @ If you have to add oil frequently, check
Before you start the engine joints, oil seals and gaskets
Y Support the scooter upright on level for oil leakage. If not, the engine could be
ground. burning oil, in which case there will be white
V Start the engine and let it idle for 3 to 5 smoke coming out of the exhaust (see Fault
minutes. Finding).

Unscrew the oil filler cap/level dipstick y. Wipe the dipstick clean.
from the right-hand side of the engine. contacts the engine, but do not screw it
in.

Remove the dipstick and check the oil If the level is on or below the lower line, top On completion, make sure the O-ring
mark — it should lie between the upper up the engine with the recommended grade (arrowed) on the underside of the cap is in
and lower level lines (arrowed). and type of oil to bring the level almost up good condition and properly seated. Fit a
to the upper line. Do not overfill. new one if necessary. Wipe it clean and smear
new oil onto it. Fit the cap and tighten it by hand.
oes Pre-ride checks
Coolant level check

Warning: DO NOT remove the needed remove the rubber mat from the floor surplus should be siphoned or drained off to
radiator pressure cap to add panel and lift the access panel. prevent the possibility of it being expelled.
coolant. Topping up is done via V Make sure you have a supply of coolant @ If the coolant level falls steadily, check the
the coolant reservoir tank filler. DO NOT available (a mixture of 50% distilled water system for leaks (see Chapter 1). If no leaks
leave open containers of coolant about, as and 50% corrosion inhibited ethylene glycol are found and the level continues to fall, it is
it is poisonous. anti-freeze is needed). : recommended that the machine is taken to a
Y Support the scooter upright on level Honda dealer for a pressure test.
Before you start ground.
V Start the engine and let it warm up. Check
VY On SH and PS models the coolant reservoir
the coolant level with the engine running at
is located behind the upper front panel, and is
normal operating temperature.
visible through the grille, or by removing the
Caution: Do not run the engine in an
upper front cover for an improved view (see
enclosed space such as a garage or
Chapter 9). If top-up is needed, remove the
workshop.
upper front panel.
¥On Dylan and @ models the coolant
reservoir is located behind the upper front Bike care
panel, and is visible via an aperture in the @ Use only the specified coolant mixture.
inner front cover. If top-up is needed remove It is important that anti-freeze is used in the
the upper front panel (see Chapter 9). system all year round, and not just in the \
¥Y On Pantheon and S-wing models the winter. Do not top-up the system with water iu

coolant reservoir is located under the floor only, as the coolant will become too diluted. 1 Coolant level UPPER and LOWER level
panel on the left-hand side and is visible via ®@ Do not overfill the reservoir tank. The coolant lines on SH and PS models, with upper
an aperture in the lower cover. If top-up is level should be just below the MAX mark. Any front panel removed.

Coolant level UPPER and LOWER level ... if top-up is needed remove the upper 4 Coolant level UPPER and LOWER
lines on Dylan and @ models... front panel to access the reservoir cap level lines on Pantheon and S-wing
(arrowed). models...

Ue ioe Ree
5 .. . If top-up is needed peel back the 6 Remove the reservoir cap. Vf.Top-up with the specified coolant mixture
rubber mat and remove the access to bring the level almost up to the UPPER
panel. line. Do not overfill.
 Pre-ride checks ovg9
Brake fluid level check

Warning: Brake fluid can harm vV Make sure you have a supply of DOT 4 top the reservoir(s) up until the new pads have
your eyes and damage painted brake fluid. been fitted, and then check to see if topping
surfaces, so use extreme caution Vv Access to the reservoir cover is restricted up is still necessary — when the caliper pistons
when handling and pouring it and cover on some models by the handlebar cover. If are pushed back to accommodate the extra
surrounding surfaces with rag. Do not necessary, remove the cover to top up the thickness of the pads some fluid will be
use fluid that has been standing open for fluid level (see Chapter 9). displaced back into the reservoir.
some time, as it absorbs moisture from the Vv Wrap a rag around the reservoir to ensure @ If the reservoir requires repeated topping-up
air which can cause a dangerous loss of that any spillage does not come into contact this is an indication of a fluid leak somewhere
braking effectiveness. with painted or plastic surfaces. If any fluid is in the system, which should be investigated
spilt, wash it off immediately with cold water. immediately.
@ Check for signs of fluid leakage from the
Before you start Bike care brake hoses and components - if found,
vY Support the scooter in an upright position @ The fluid in the brake master cylinder rectify immediately.
on level ground and turn the handlebars until reservoir(s) will drop as the brake pads wear. If @ Check the operation of the brakes before
the brake reservoir is as level as possible -— the fluid level is low check the brake pads for riding the machine. If there is evidence of air in
remember to check both reservoirs if your wear (see Chapter 1), and replace them with the system (a spongy feel to the lever), bleed
scooter is equipped with a rear disc brake. new ones if necessary (see Chapter 8). Do not the brake as described in Chapter 8.

1 Set the handlebars so the reservoir is Where necessary, remove the handlebar Top up with new clean DOT 4 hydraulic
level and check the fluid level through cover (see Chapter 9). Undo the reservoir fluid, until the level is up to the UPPER
the window in the reservoir body, via cover screws and remove the cover, line (arrowed) on the inside of the
the aperture in the handlebar cover where diaphragm plate and diaphragm. reservoir. Do not overfill and take care to avoid
appropriate - the level must be above the spills (see Warning above).
LOWER level line (arrowed).

(Sah ee wee bs

Ensure that the diaphragm is correctly seated before fitting the

4 Wipe any moisture out of the diaphragm with a tissue.
plate and cover. Secure the cover with its screws.
o1o Pre-ride checks
Tyre checks
have become embedded in the tyre tread. If with no bald patches. Many riders, however,
The correct pressures left, they will eventually penetrate through the consider 2 mm tread depth minimum to be a
@ The tyres must be checked when cold, casing and cause a puncture. safer limit. Honda recommend a minimum of
not immediately after riding. Note that low @ If tyre damage is apparent, or unexplained 41.5 mm on the front and 2 mm on the rear.
tyre pressures may cause the tyre to slip on loss of pressure is experienced, seek the Refer to the tyre tread legislation in your
the rim or come off. High tyre pressures advice of a tyre fitting specialist without delay. country.
will cause abnormal tread wear and unsafe @ Many tyres now incorporate wear indicators
handling. Tyre tread depth in the tread. Identify the location marking on
@ Use an accurate pressure gauge. Many the tyre sidewall to locate the indicator bar
@ At the time of writing UK law requires that
forecourt gauges are wildly inaccurate. If you and replace the tyre if the tread has worn
tread depth must be at least 1 mm over 3/4 of
buy your own, spend as much as you can down to the bar.
the tread breadth all the way around the tyre,
justify on a quality gauge.
@ Proper air pressure will increase tyre life and
provide maximum stability and ride comfort.
@ Refer to the tables below for the correct
tyre pressures for your model.

Pantheon and S-wing

Poe Font | [Rear

Rider only |25psi 29 psi
. (1.75 Bar) (2.00 Bar)
Rider and 25 psi 36 psi :
passenger {(1.75Bar) _| (2.50 Bar)
1 Remove the dust cap from the valve and Check the tyre pressures when the tyres
All other models do not forget to fit it after checking the are cold.
pressure.
Rider only | 25 psi | 29 psi :
75 Bar) (2.00 Bar) _
Rider and | 25 psi 33 psi
passenger (1.75 Bar) (2.25 Bar)

Tyre care
@ Check the tyres carefully for cuts, tears,
embedded nails or other sharp objects and
excessive wear. Operation of the scooter with
excessively worn tyres is extremely hazardous,
as traction and handling are directly affected.
@ Check the condition of the tyre valve and Measure tread depth at the centre of the Tyre tread wear indicator bar (A) and its
ensure the dust cap is in place. tyre using a tread depth gauge. location marking (B) (usually an arrow, a
@ Pick out any stones or nails which may triangle or the letters TWI) on the sidewall.

Suspension and steering checks

@ Check that the front and rear suspension operates smoothly without @ Check that the steering moves smoothly from lock-to-lock.
binding.

Legal and safety checks

Lighting and signalling Safety Fuel
@ Take a minute to check that the headlight, ®@ Check that the throttle grip rotates smoothly @ This may seem obvious, but check that you
tail light, brake light, instrument lights and turn and snaps shut when released, in all steering have enough fuel to complete your journey.
signals all work correctly. positions. Do not wait until the fuel gauge or warning
@ Check that the horn sounds when the ®@ Check that stand return springs hold the light tells you that the level in the tank is low
switch is operated. stand(s) securely up when retracted. before filling up.
@ A working speedometer graduated in mph @ Check that both brakes work correctly @ If you notice signs of leakage you must
is a statutory requirement in the UK. when applied and free off when released. rectify the cause immediately.
@ Ensure you use the correct grade unleaded
petrol, minimum 91 octane (RON).
Chapter 1
Routine maintenance and servicing
Contents Section number Section number
LNPLC GIs Saeki oma) ac er ae suntBelton ehad's teriorWidgets ili: KG ALDOX OIE, angasecet a sehskst tale iimnreT eteitven ide Glin: asin ACR aes ee ee
Batohyeet semen of ck wteathe o Gewcnda ites Aion e's See ANT ce csttacs, ou 2 > Meadlightaim acith a ceasew © sem atte ts Be ohio cae ee cae ee ea
Brake fluid levercheck. .. ec -tas 2. cies os = See, Pre-rideichecks: ~ Idle'speedns ih eecpacdh pest tise Saar At acta eR ees 13
Brake pads and shoes..............2..005 Be ae Sens ON eR SES UINUTS ANG, DOITS ious aaetaamsrt tnts.e aera cinerea si siesta ee ES
EsteKOS VSECTINMME Cetin, te geWeh ueAscece asccrus,avn, ar oat Anas Wobexensti ererai 4 PAIR (pulse secondary air supply) system..................... 15
CGE |ieenn atc CRM ee al ea a a = Bat eee MR oto Oe SPArk"PlG wycisely che Wheater heever a ekeue ne wetee oinee mm GS
RHSCC TEKETIOS CHECKS: “Stand(S)\ Amica. ¢ nous lessees ara tshcn tic lisad a aia,« aa ie ae eee oe ee 17
SOONOISVStelMaee sew ~ Aisin sacle s wee « 0G,sevens bebe cn iene 6. Steering head bearings a 1. .)oakihel a +z. «cascode eave etna che eae eae,
CrankGase DISAatheMn week covers ew dew alwreiers Ben aed) heb c itetaie ie Late SUSPENSION Aiwersralia dele msedoc ip oucnzenhutiaschecttte haars chsavas elector eaeeeeee eee
DUANE $3 icuc eye an ee SSeS he pee ene re Be. TOUS tater) Soa.G rcs saat outs, SRNR ee Pio ayayee cgaane a ten oF rok eee
Enon olancd Strainer: oes ase vem ses aa PIA eae Re OM rIraniSimSsionGase item ses acai... Sete oa Ree eel
Engine oillevel Check... 5... ees nes cee ee ne af SCC UENO. CHECKS,” VIG CHECKS. ca waraiate trage ons ene oer) ss oye: oak eee see Pre-ride checks
Engine wear assessment................0- Pees. fe see Chapter.2 “Valve'clearanCeSs naea.si0 fas, nie 3.4 Fes a) odin cuss aes Se RE
PG) Si I) oracai eas Cee tC eR Cah ay tyCKD ROR ARS TO: *Wheelsrandetyress = ae aoe eee ee oe ro?

Degrees of difficulty
SN Fairly difficult, SS Difficult, suitable NS
NS Fairly easy, suitable
Easy, suitable for Very difficult,
s
EN
novice with little for beginner with suitable for competent SN for experienced DIY ®& suitable for expert
experience my some experience xN DIY mechanic RR mechanic DIY or professional

Introduction
1 This Chapter is designed to help the home to start the maintenance routine from the from that included here, use the information
mechanic maintain his/her scooter for safety, beginning as with a new machine. If you have on the decal.
economy, long life and peak performance. a used scooter and have no knowledge of
2 Deciding where to start or plug into a its history or maintenance record, you may Note 1: Pre-ride checks are listed at the
service schedule depends on several factors. desire to combine all the checks into one beginning of this manual. Always perform
lf the warranty period on your scooter has large service initially and then settle into the the pre-ride inspection at every maintenance
just expired, and if it has been maintained maintenance schedule prescribed. interval (in addition to the procedures listed).
according to the warranty standards, you 3 Before beginning any maintenance or repair, Note 2: The intervals listed below are the
will want to pick up routine maintenance as clean your scooter thoroughly, especially intervals recommended by the manufacturer
it coincides with the next mileage or calendar around the suspension, brakes, engine and for each particular operation during the model
interval. If you have owned the machine for gearbox covers. Cleaning will help ensure that years covered in this manual.
some time but have never performed any dirt does not contaminate the working parts Note 3: An initial (one-off) service will be
maintenance on it, then you may want to and will allow you to detect wear and damage performed by a Honda dealer after the first
start at the nearest interval and include some that could otherwise easily go unnoticed. 600 miles (1000 km) from new. Thereafter, the
additional procedures to ensure that nothing 4 Certain maintenance information is scooter should be serviced according to the
important is overlooked. If you have just had sometimes printed on decals attached to the intervals specified in the service schedules
a major engine overhaul, then you will want scooter. If the information on the decals differs which follow.
12 Specifications and schedules

SH125 and 150, 2001 to 2004

Model identification
Engine 125 or 150 cc single cylinder, liquid-cooled four-stroke
Gearbox sinrssack. trae: haa Re eee cps hn anette, ane tie erent Variable speed automatic, belt driven
Ignition Capacitor discharge ignition (CDI)
Fuel System sick: ie dierc ieitieide sere os alert pate Gases ehenat cee CV carburettor
Front suspensions. act. semtarmeicvuition. «a0 sae eee aonarealeis a stato Telescopic fork
RearsSuspensions:: dis accade the Seah hairs, bine Bethe Sees ste aes © mala chee Swingarm and twin shock
Frontibrakern: aren te ciccatci pee wean chs Ate © eee ae atest Hydraulic disc
Rearbrake tries -cicsettean sas aid +. ambedn W ee ee ae Drum
Front tyre.size': sitee@ . teais pte aps fences ss onto eeerceentee otis eee 100/80-16
Reartyre size ryase trite Get: Sinica ces n:3" cate ol le ee eee 120/80-16
Overall: length =wert ed etic ces nyse) tela Seem pte eres weeic 2020 mm
Overall: wWiGth yc 5.2 <waecn aresccaidee, ctra.a eillviw oe Ohe eae ne rene eee 705 mm
Overallineignt ys «ous oie.s kis(6doar Sevatae hele as Eee ae ee 1145 mm
Wheelbase rr ioc tae. of 3 6.4 s.cinuty tussle Slenee Re ae ae ete 1335 mm
SSO ATOIGNIY ctetrasks teaser ais Gumnons sl istetalao. foto eaandolean caterer a ate 790 mm
GroundiclearanCe nas. seackc ae oe ae heen atic oa «see 148 mm
DYIWEIGIE Het ceee tcc. nue ates 8 Bis Rade Scie WSUa Pete alesa ola RRL 122 kg
CurbnWwelg hits vctacs ieace. cueustsctoe a che,flops Si Salat ES,su,aiinew pcan 131 kg
UCI tANKIGADACILY seestrcty scm cre ape sien ceo eres er rie cic ites ans ee 8.3 litres

Servicing specifications and lubricants

Spark plug type
Standarieeewrsein, we te eons head moss a otis EMRE ae Oy,cakes NGK CR8EH-9 or Denso U24FER9
Extended high speed riding...................0000eeevaeee NGK CR9EH-9 or Denso U27FER9Q
Spark plug electrode gap .............. 0.00. ccc eee eee eens 0.8 to 0.9 mm
ldlerspeedie repr nit nperm trie tat a icles aaitend + Ale okie metieate < 1400 to 1600 rom
Disc brake pad and drum brake shoe wear limits............... see Text
Rear brake lever freeplay ..............0000 cece cee eeeneeeae 15 to 25 mm
Drum brake lining maximum diameter.....................0.- 131 mm
Drive belt wear limit (see text).......... 0.0... cc cece eee eee 21.5 mm
Throttle twistgrip freeplay ............. 0.0 ccc cece eee eee eens 2to6mm
Valve clearances (engine COLD)
BAKO WalVObeesrtteencnbs erie cies noe Wels « sCcte So cute vooud ara 0.14 to 0.18 mm
0.23 to 0.27 mm
UC MERE AAPA een hun cham evetta cite Mara s-cihticget ane kulayWie sceeiaiane coee Petrol (unleaded) min 91 octane
ENGineroilityDe! epee ie Ser aieostoe etter a hte drt ars chsce Roxecik ee Guahers Sneek SAE 10W30 or 10W40, API SG min, JASO MA or MB
Engine oil capacity
PATON, CITING verve teeres sage. oerctictee Wate ta ae TO eer 0.9 litre
After engine disassembly. ............... 0.0.00. ccc eeens 1.0 litre
Coolantitype ners we cae oi ee. Aare ia ble baie es aise due siglo Gara ahh see Pre-ride checks
Cooling system capacity............ 0.0... cece eee cece enue 1.15 litres
GOAanDOXSOUl ners eerie siefe ayia ciate athe Bociw ebm. ce Ara eee SAE 90W Hypoid gear oil or engine oil (see above)
Gearbox oil capacity
ALLO taGNALM G eeGeren. hice Sysop chores coos cle nei s ras oa 210 ml
After engine disassembly................0.0.0 cc ccc eeeeeee 220 ml
Brake mUidirscte rans acc: cee eee te coe ee ee ee eee DOT 4
Torque settings
Engine oildrainiplug sf 30 ccs es eek. cnc ce eee ee 20 Nm
SHACKIDIUG Wa tee cool ees hs Meee ee ee ee 12 Nm
Gearbox oil drain plug 27 Nm
Gearbox oil level plug 13 Nm
 Specifications and schedules 1-3

Service schedule
Note: Always perform the Pre-ride checks before every service interval —- see the beginning of this Manual.

Text sectionin |Every 2500 miles | Every 5000 miles Every 7500 miles Every 15,000 miles
this Chapter (4000 km) (8000 km) mat2,000 km) (24,000 km)
Air filter — replace* 1 Vv
Battery — check 2 v |

Brake pad and shoe - wear check 3 v

Brake system — check** 4 v
Clutch - check 5 ei | v
Cooling system — check*** 6
Crankcase breather — clean
: [
Drive belt — check S
Drive belt — replace
NS
10
Every 2 years

12
13

Nuts and bolts — tightness check

Stand(s) — check and lubricate SN

Steering head bearings — check
Suspension — check
Throttle — check and adjust

Transmission case filter - clean ©

=|

Valve clearances — check

in
Wheels and tyres — check
He |

* Replace the air filter more often if the scooter is ridden in constantly wet or dusty conditions.
* The brake fluid must be changed every 2 years, irrespective of mileage.
*“Drain and refill with fresh coolant every 2 years, irrespective of mileage
1-4 Specifications and schedules

SH125i and 150i, 2005 to 2008

Model identification
Engine 125 or 150 cc single cylinder, liquid-cooled four-stroke
GGOATTIONG oecssieis ayslee iekdedacs nia OR tte Moa oh Ade en eo ee Variable speed automatic, belt driven
Ignition a wie aie Roe kee ae Welene © Va [Oe ae) mela) eta) e ena 0G ge RRS pile « 0 6 ele ise Fully transistorised
FRUGESYSTOMYE | 5 Sire 5 i,5-5 ayers daw sche atari tnd ety DI eee Rem «is «Aree PGM-FI fuel injection
FrontuSuspensSiOn sy.issz osc fens cuales nee et ac ec emeeme neeee nieces va es Telescopic fork
FREAT: SUSPENSIONS sch. seis ccs soiewa once «9 hl cael cRNA er oh Swingarm and twin shock
FROMTDF AKO ioe soreinederete:nloeltahin laisse GEER ROIS © Mae otis ee aR os Coes Hydraulic disc
RO ar Draken. fc is Giacevs cia onaleis sal nee ace eer eT aeNe Drum
Frontityre'SiZ@ys:o'6 jac se hed ahtis eo emirate ©.(Pet Sumer vanes eel 100/80-16
Ram tyre SiZe re aioe ae cin cuedevevcsd dd Meek RE oo 8 Baalw aceraes 120/80-16
Overalliengtitiisa ince tiniocs Galea. Sete ecaieoam oe 2020 mm
OV eraliwiGtints cr .ot cis cyecciiryssc secu ca ekeShiuorn tine dente s Mahan atnets 705 mm
Overaliiheighte nce see ae ee ak RTC ee Gas nee 1140 mm
Witcelbasomurmcn. cin eri nar saath Baus crater ee? ean ne 1335 mm
SOAUMOIGHE eager Sys wate deecdhada aiceeteed eek Pe ee rere 790 mm
GroundiclearanCes Feira s atekure ates cohen vcsial es aeetebal cs wus 140 mm
GUND WEIN E reget enka sesgaices amhopenahe tan‘sttur Seas MRR aha erick ee 134 kg
Fuel tank capacity ......... Ae Ee recor 0. aI 7.5 litres

Servicing specifications and lubricants

Spark plug type
LETETee[oicachiensCHE SSRN RCRD cya CaRCELNew nes.cu mts keene os eeemcees eaecae a NGK CR8EH-9 or Denso U24FER9
Extended high speed riding.................00cc cece eens NGK CR9EH-9 or Denso U27FER9
Spark plug electrode gap ............... 0. cece eee eee ees 0.8 to 0.9 mm
Idlerspeed ieee ete re ites atte Ae Po a Sai ieoie Moai tee 1400 to 1600 rpm
Disc brake pad and drum brake shoe wear limits............... see Text
Rear brake lever freeplay ................00. eeee eee eee 10 to 20 mm
Drum brake lining maximum diameter........................ 131 mm
Drive belt wear limit (see text)........... 0.0.0.0... ccc eee eee 21.5mm
Throttle twistgrip freeplay ............ 0.0.00 ccc cece eee 2to6mm
Valve clearances (engine COLD)
intakewalve rrr ctr ieee scot Gib ahe ksOHa a ucnecd swe wate OE 0.14 to 0.18 mm
0.23 to 0.27 mm
Fuel Petrol (unleaded) min 91 octane
Engine Oty Pe cease terre cine lsCoiccat itulesen aj2 waprcanoeeg utara ERs SAE 10W30 or 10W40, API SG min, JASO MA or MB
Engine oil capacity
PTIGTACLalminiQipmes ie en og oGiate we ties dase h eee an eee 0.9 litre
After engine disassembly. .............. 0.000000 cee eee eeee 1.0 litre
GOGIAMEY PO pitystreet ie eilege cua nian seis dee dese wk atte Suds aceon ae anon see Pre-ride checks
Cooling system capacity
Radiatonandiengine= 2. sock. bce raw ees ees vad ee ae ea ve wk 0.95 litre
RESCH OWE tetera isco eye erenencna eka todays: te.caheittees tots Rea es 0.4 litre
GeanoxcOll Rewrscrgr a ctie. orca ayctbis Gisic suave: ovedma vee Siene Uo c be SAE 90W Hypoid gear oil or engine oil (see above)
Gearbox oil capacity
TLE FACAAINAG Somer tcp ingen ee sooo. Gay Pin. wicrao Shoe Glo aus etek ene 190 ml
After engine disassembly................... ccc. cc eeceuuce 220 ml
Brake Sluice toni trl wiienc ate stecaca Realises, «Guach adam eee DOT 4
Torque settings
Engine oll/drain'pliigs: 3. 6 Sewn ads oon eee eee 20 Nm
SPALKeDlUGwecmiy vest wees creche ois valley se eon 12 Nm
Gearboxioll drain plugie.. ccs ns vice be ab cd eee. eee 27 Nm
Gearbox oil level plug 13 Nm
 Specifications and schedules 1-5

Service schedule
Note: Always perform the Pre-ride checks before every service interval — see the beginning of this Manual.

Text sectionin | Every 2500 miles | Every 5000 miles Every 7500 miles__| Every 15,000 miles
this Chapter (4000 km) (8000 km) (12,000 km) cm)
(24,000 km
Air filter — replace*

Battery — check
Ae eee
Brake pad and shoe — wear check

Brake system — check**

Clutch — check
Cooling system — check***
Crankcase breather — clean
Drive belt —- check
Drive belt — replace v

Engine oil —- change

Fuel system — check

Gearbox oil change ok Every 2 years

Headlight aim — check

Nuts and bolts - tightness check
PAIR system — check

Spark plug — replace

Stand(s) - check and lubricate =s~J

Steering head bearings — check

Suspension — check
= = ° & oO ! i?)= o 9 a se)Ee]Q petin Cc n oo

Transmission case filter — clean R

Valve clearances — check

Wheels and tyres — check 23

fh
.
* Replace the air filter more often if the scooter is ridden in constantly wet or dusty conditions.
** The brake fluid must be changed every 2 years, irrespective of mileage.
***Drain and refill with fresh coolant every 2 years, irrespective of mileage
 16 Specifications and schedules

SH125i and 150i, 2009-on

Model identification
EENIQINON Siac cer Ae Aes hos oS ais tales cision + ee EMO eek hae 125 or 150 cc single cylinder, liquid-cooled four-stroke
GOAMDIONE ar aifoia iaatic wysretsys) ssoled exudes jes os oe ONE ee ececete, ciate Variable speed automatic, belt driven
NQIIEION 9Weird ict jboare teins a psnace ataheerd chee ageeee cts eree RAR oov8te Tac Fully transistorised
FUOIISYSTOMD ho sie. AM’ ave w cusiebiane se Meee oe OPS sara PGM-FI fuel injection
FFOnt SUSPENSION |)iiscineics demi | oa coe CR EMSs eae ae Telescopic fork
ROAM SUSDENSION «4.10.i0.ci:5. acs,Baws iso = ua RR RE DEO TA ars allo Swingarm and twin shock
Front Drake. «2 iiiis sida ance veces Cees ce er ee Hydraulic disc
Rear brake
SH=9 MOdEIS 4 isl oetes devas «ais cao Ses DR Hydraulic disc
SH=DS MmOdelS iis ie 5 Siese, src» Re es cae Drum
FROME CYTCSIZE <. cctescce ste dienes ain.c. 01a/0GRE ete rns) Ee ate 100/80-16
ROamtVTeISiZOn me Notre een scree soe. acc Ric Bes Fae ate eae Come 120/80-16
Overaliiongtnm cra ince cece ee acvis sw aicrs dete maanabsaeco we tte 2025 mm
Ovoralliwicthismedtersase ite clue bias h ya ne Baie arse foe ta 700 mm
OveralliWeiQhtrs ho ete sucescc hayare os clea eee A Ee ee 1230 mm
WVINOGID ASO etre tree eae ee, Ros U 4 TaSv shod aS e aig meee cee 1335 mm
SEAMMOIGN tact Avie inn rhe acre | on hee See te ie 785 mm
Ground claaranCen, 4. \shsiiacscespeyneeitacire en +cuoeatenthen: ona os 156 mm
Curb weight
Sid=O MOGGIS enter wey: eae Beth asters ance tera ehaeen os TSS 136 kg
SI -DOIMOGGIS. wneie as meieic dere ba FT tet au thane nee eae G 134 kg
US ANKCCADACHY: enccnateis Grupa? vic eve sccnuse wa-nvevanatonatnanee
Sela olenncebeer 7.5 litres

Servicing specifications and lubricants

Spark plug type
StanGarclre Petar aac cae os, rate ee SEN, chee athe oe eae NGK CR8EH-9 or Denso U24FER9
Extended high speed riding................ 00.00 cceeeeeee NGK CR9EH-9 or Denso U27FER9
Spark plug electrode gap ...............0 00. ceee ceee eeeaes 0.8 to 0.9 mm
IGI@ SPOOC esr rset ccshee e\cne eins ee Rides hiscw wo g SAR wT dhaendw ccc 1400 to 1600 rpm
Disc brake pad and drum brake shoe wear limits............... see Text
Rear brake lever freeplay (D9 models)........................ 10 to 20 mm
Drum brake lining maximum diameter (D9 models)............. 131 mm
Drive belt wear limit (see text)... ......0. 0.0.00. cece ee eee eee 21.5 mm
Throttle twistgrip freeplay ............. 00... cece cece eeee ee 2to6mm
Valve clearances (engine COLD)
Ip Re KQ NUCAL©vearer net en a soso ass pro Rov cicadn docssud un, avd ouesl esol ie 0.14 to 0.18 mm
EEXMAUISUAV AV OM Ete nae fietant(els wie ic Nok Cave. cusses Cee cin tune See 0.23 to 0.27 mm
FUL Seg ee 6 peekrceienn ee a ae aa cia Pe ae Petrol (unieaded) min 91 octane
ENGINGIONNYDOR sr meter arstyvec div susan cans ¢ aitiasta diode eres SAE 10W30 or 10W40, API SG min, JASO MA or MB
Engine oil capacity
UEC bettie! ite eee On Gere ee ee nL ce eens 0.9 litre
After engine disassembly. .................. 0.0.0 ceceeeeee 1.0 litre
COOlanityOe rere terse ull haere ak ccc ae co One see Pre-ride checks
Cooling system capacity
Radiator and engine.......2......0 ccc enc eu ccavescen 0.95 litre
RROSCIVOIN werent ret erste ee Tt ina kakey ee he ee et aelnin beh 0.4 litre
GearbOxiOlle en cyte svt Ais eetia syfrets ciate os clic ce ee SAE 90W Hypoid gear oil or engine oil (see above)
Gearbox oil capacity
PATROTECAECAUNVIEYCliecceratyctr Sivausca Reet wandtiia ete -chivreve svas a Soeeeeweewettvaper ere 190 ml
After engine disassembly.............. 0.0... .0cc ccc ceccee 220 ml
Bereta ee ie. le DOT 4
Torque settings
Engine-oil'drain plug 12 .¢tecne sees). <i iw ce eee 20 Nm
SDR PIU se uhh ties. MENT Sekt sox Ree 12 Nm
MeSereIONCONE CLAN NIG) unt Rete NeT boos «os desae a ee 27 Nm
Gearpox ol level plug 4... 66. ck ee ees ccna es cel dee elle. 13 Nm
 Specifications and schedules 1-7

Service schedule
Note: Always perform the Pre-ride checks before every service interval — see the beginning of this Manual.

Text sectionin |Every 2500 miles |Every 5000 miles | Every 7500 miles | Every 15,000 miles
this Chapter (4000 km) (8000 km) (12,000 km) (24,
24,000 km)

Battery — check
|
Brake pad and shoe — wear check rm
w| SN
Brake system — check**

Clutch — check
i
Cooling system — check*** SN
Crankcase breather — clean SN
Drive belt - check

Drive belt — replace Vv

Engine oil — change

ill |
Fuel system — check
Gearbox oil change
Headlight aim — check
Nuts and bolts — tightness check

PAIR system — check Vv

Spark plug — replace SN

SN
Stand(s) - check and lubricate SN
S
Steering head bearings — check Vv

= » 7! a 3. n : ° =) 9 rat)n 1) - ma@ os | Qo ro)» 22)

* Replace the air filter more often if the scooter is ridden in constantly wet or dusty conditions.
** The brake fluid must be changed every 2 years, irrespective of mileage.
*Drain and refill with fresh coolant every 2 years, irrespective of mileage
1s Specifications and schedules

Dylan 125 and 150

Model identification
Engine 125 or 150 cc single cylinder, liquid-cooled four-stroke
GANONG recos wpa eod)vaca in Sa a ae aeve trw bs 5 aca RRs oteaten c he Variable speed automatic, belt driven
Ignition Capacitor discharge ignition (CDI)
BUGHSYSTOMY. 55s dciigin tid ol cols wiley, 0h 2 Mt cachet Open SHAME Oe win eras CV carburettor ~
FrontUsSuspensioni« < cava nginc aekios yw dee LE Ms,» where Telescopic fork
Rear SUSPENSION. ~<a. Ge oo ai arnt < ee Dareehn Seana = ai.0 ls Swingarm and twin shock
Front Drake: «sf 5 eis ad wa exes aan cheb sey Oa eR tomes eta Hydraulic disc
Rearmbrake: 2.005 cic f4 cadiats s-cealce a cite steel & tase Shs 4 ena Cee eda Drum
Front tyre Sizes iif gjacl date ale chcta-coa fico eats. ov eRe See era 110/90-13
Rearitvre SiZ@ uty: c.oGcdias 2 cscs oles cals kre Se ees ot ners ov pears 130/70-13
Overall lengthier wires ce Ser Khwaticuiinid cote ctenreueerte anits inl cra 1949 mm
OVErallWIC acti tccle cise cie, «cit ine elagin o MnGie aeons Gettin eons bee 698 mm
OVerall Melle cee eens ais sis es is, lies) 5 Tnbake haters abaidleherens 1142 mm
WI NGEID ASCENT a tecte sicher a tens ayaas ais Soka wu eye eacodal Ghewre a omele 1328 mm
SSGAL NS UN ee ar aia Sesda ais aus-a's Sh pe. ee EE aie 795 mm
GrOUNGICIOALANGO.2 555 seo. foe orose yes0)5 bcu age Shcslletlopop neon ete tesmlaii 137 mm
DDGVAWOIG INU cry cca: Pctarr cane cid segnin, coral Mae» penaeadss eRe siegshes eel arr rispee 122 kg
GULDAWEI GIN net Ness eisfeceuaihac wane thee ic.a a aeaeeena tates sor aie 131 kg
Fuelitankicapacity (isms iktaretitds ot fe oe oe el Oo Sere ee 9.0 litres

Servicing specifications and lubricants

Spark plug type
LET Tne ftDAS dito Sra neitne eh eae aa rane COMME ERC A eon <tc ene peeene NGK CR8EH-9 or Denso U24FER9
Extended high speed riding................ 0000 cece eee eae NGK CR9EH-9 or Denso U27FER9
Spark plug electrode gap ............... 0ccc cece eeee eee 0.8 to 0.9 mm
IGGtIspeed Parcel rpc hs oe cota te cies diccsmeral Piola a ana Roa aGs 1500 to 1700 rpm
Disc brake pad and drum brake shoe wear limits............... see Text
Rear brake lever freeplay .............. 0.0.0 ecee eteens 15 to 25 mm
Drum brake lining maximum diameter........................ 131 mm
Drive belt wear limit (See text).......... 0.0.0.0... cee eee 21.5mm
Throttle twistgrip freeplay .............. 0... ccc eee eeee eee 2to6mm
Valve clearances (engine COLD)
DEE CAV AllVG pe teagtee ious deta ac sw hc)Sera otsocise hodsi0: doch, deitbaraurePeureievean« 0.14 to 0.18 mm
0.23 to 0.27 mm
EUG RPE a rree err adic asa jrs bok ato ee eb cote bier Petrol (unleaded) min 91 octane
EIGIMNG LON TVDO t artes ie ous a tres chesBus, cat uesie, einaus sdyatstadeaa, dx SAE 10W30 or 10W40, API SG min, JASO MA or MB
Engine oil capacity
ATterndrainingige sy coe Sri Pls 6 SG. eee ed ew ee alse aloes 0.9 litre
After engine disassembly................ 0.0.00 ccece ee eeee 1.0 litre
Goolantitype merits. she 3 8 OA Sescteie su win se a Oho Oa sa ene see Pre-ride checks
Gooling/SYSIEM: CAPACITY: ohare. ocseiestuiendy steric aricrareicn aie < naeucoamadauensnovans 0.95 litres
GEanDOxiOllee terre mee seen ort eyeeh iolLiiiccn a eiane, ealn aeid h ween 6 oe SAE 90W Hypoid gear oil or engine oil (see above)
Gearbox oil capacity
PAItGILOn alin Gaither sansa a cis cn ees aes hate 2 orachr ee ee ee 210 ml
After engine disassembly. ................. 0.0.0 cece acces 220 ml
Brakestiuicitemer ie: 7a. cst :ce semen ees ol See eee DOT 4
Torque settings
Engine oll'drainiplug =. Petes os vals se ve alow cc oaaeae 20 Nm
SSP cA POUL atest pec ckcata dlcopeorone MeNEIR ever Bevo entice dee bameeae 12 Nm
Gearbox oil drain plug ............
00... ccc ccc cece ee eus 27 Nm
Gearbox-oll:levelplug: oo. 3 icc. ae se ss ese eles dene 13. Nm
 Specifications and schedules 1-9

Service schedule
Note: Always perform the Pre-ride checks before every service interval — see the beginning of this Manual.

Text sectionin |Every 2500 miles | Every 5000 miles Every 7500 miles __| Every 15,000 miles
this Chapter (4000 km) (8000 km) (12,000 km) (24,
24,000 km)
Air filter — replace* Vv
Battery — check

Brake pad and shoe - wear check

Brake system — check**

Clutch — check

Cooling system — check***

Crankcase breather — clean

Drive belt — check

Drive belt - replace

Engine oil — change
Fuel system — check

Gearbox oil change Every 2 years

Headlight aim — check

Idle speed — check and adjust

Nuts and bolts — tightness check

PAIR system — check Vv

Spark plug — replace

Stand(s) - check and lubricate st=

Steering head bearings — check Vv

Suspension — check

Throttle — check and adjust

Transmission case filter — clean

Valve clearances — check

Wheels and tyres — check

* Replace the air filter more often if the scooter is ridden in constantly wet or dusty conditions.
** The brake fluid must be changed every 2 years, irrespective of mileage.
***Drain and refill with fresh coolant every 2 years, irrespective of mileage
1-10 Specifications and schedules

@ 125 and 150

Model identification
Engine DEC UCN ACN RCC Ee a I as an ere a Ue PCO Tee eT ee Cec ce Coy oe Sam cra 125 or 150 cc single cylinder, liquid-cooled four-stroke
GOATDOX ie idle oles = ook ons dkaleepees a:S)« eee ME le elle Srna ot Variable speed automatic, belt driven
Ignition Capacitor discharge ignition (CD))
FUCHSYSTONT roi coe ee ae hl oa woow eR etecaiettatigtte tsfecelle ovale CV carburettor
FronESUSDENSION S25) rins sae ecole hea Coane tenia e < inase Telescopic fork
Rear SUSPENSIONS 6:i°s oe s)si< Sch he ee oe ete oie eee a Swingarm and twin shock
Front Drake ein A ice el oS Ee neat: SO eee te ee ater cures Hydraulic disc
RR AM DEAK 8s a a's 0s, iets x icils153 o's,te Met ae be RR nage ee a ee Drum
FrontityreSiZe’. sais ods 6's aoe Sin, tek. Ce RT Tee ele 110/90-13
Rea tyre Size. ine ia edie coat SD ee DOR. e eee eee 130/70-13
Overalliiength. oii. i taal ea ets Pee oe Ge as Sie blees 1937 mm
OveralliwiGtherer sana eashictetei yet terteret ece eaete re a clas erie cre 698 mm
Overall NeiGhter er. cits ston setae vena lard ales artes rene tieraantre See)= 1174 mm
Wiheelbaseara sete stete ie attae eee bao fF Spelopleane tncreates @ ote 1328 mm
Seatinelght-y eh. cee k Gite ae 52 RNS BL eee 805 mm
Ground Clearance sa... oti metre roldoln ssOE asa a endo ah etcetera 141 mm
DIViWEIGK Ur rit tae trate ciereimttic a eis te neiccele creas Gurus aie ee eaeas 122 kg
Gurbiwelgiityeca tread hotatomeciec atk cicie, wieloys, 012 6 a syyncim eustaawle! sla assis 131 kg
Fuelitank’capacily sreccinarcscs wees tie eee. eee a ales ee 9.0 litres

Servicing specifications and lubricants

Spark plug type
Ce ET) 6 Bice 0.0 blot cub'e aid Oana ORR Rene eee omen, Ok ER NGK CR8EH-9 or Denso U24FER9
Extended high speed riding.............. 0.00 cc eee eens NGK CR9EH-9 or Denso U27FER9
Spark plug electrode gap ............... 0. ccc eee eee ete ee 0.8 to 0.9 mm
TGIGISPCOCC Peer eer ee. oe acd te ci ee i oe eooene s lene 1400 to 1600 rpm
Disc brake pad and drum brake shoe wear limits............... see Text
Rear brake lever freeplay ..............0.00 ccc cece eee eee 15 to 25 mm
Drum brake lining maximum diameter........................ 131 mm
Drive belt wear limit (see text)... 0.0.0.0... 0.0... 0c cece eee eee 21.5 mm
Throttle twistgrip freeplay .......... 0... ccc cece ee eee 2to6mm
Valve clearances (engine COLD)
IT AK WV ALVG rere peasy oicasket acysoevicha Puaseosls “ase canton slatiadeceleuathlwusuacaails 0.14 to 0.18 mm
0.23 to 0.27 mm
EUG le ete re eee Ore ince he nh oe en Petrol (unleaded) min 91 octane
ENGINGION YD ba eae ter tte neers Bao tos aaa hale hs altos SAE 10W30 or 10W40, API SG min, JASO MA or MB
Engine oil capacity
Atterdaraining! se 5 ire rers ee ote Pres cen eos ree wee 0.9 litre
After engine disassembly...................
0000 euee 1.0 litre
GOOEY PG merit rime fr wieicacic ae icra a cians aiaie slcha ely Oban reidl see Pre-ride checks
Cooling system capacity ............. 0.0.0. eeee eee eee eee 0.95 litres
GEalDOXCOMP ee tacts sancds chain ice oo wlag din oN ala. che ene ate \ SAE 90W Hypoid gear oil or engine oil (see above)
Gearbox oil capacity
STL TONCAITING Weeaa eh Lc re ies 2 Sen cin y.» elalernis wate eet ales 210 ml
After engine disassembly................. 0.000 cece ace eaue 220 ml
Brake tiidinr to es tek Saat eee ee ea Shale ee hie = DOT 4
Torque settings
Engineioll drain plug 3 4Acci ne ce vc ss ood scans as an 20 Nm
SP UC POLI) ciescd Pench. 20 teh oa eRe gurl earue Aocbat hy seen Lee: 12 Nm
Gearbox oil drain plug 27 Nm
Gearbox oil level plug 13 Nm
 Specifications and schedules 1611

ETAT ORR
EE EE SH a

Service schedule
Note: Always perform the Pre-ride checks before every service interval — see the beginning of this Manual.

Ea a Every 2500 miles | Every 5000 miles | Every 7500 miles | Every 15,000 miles
this Chapter (4000 km) (8000 km) (12,000 =f (24,000 km)
Air filter — replace*

Battery —check

Brake pad and shoe —- wear check

Brake system — check** Sea

Clutch — check acd

Cooling system — check***

Every 2 years

=e

* Replace the air filter more often if the scooter is ridden in constantly wet or dusty conditions.
** The brake fluid must be changed every 2 years, irrespective of mileage.
*Drain and refill with fresh coolant every 2 years, irrespective of mileage
1012 Specifications and schedules

PS125i and 150i

Model identification
=f} |[a> samehee, Aral eter ears ee eee cel ht iy oe, Renee er 125 or 150 cc single cylinder, liquid-cooled four-stroke
GOA DONG rests cicada sentate We sedarenie taleTaadvols «(See PS ee ais rte8Srote Variable speed automatic, belt driven
PGMAONTybsssciteeta ietisne lsavelacavetalatand iaytaneeal sone 8 ¥0Seog RPMI thors Gee ovale Fully transistorised
FUGISYVSTOIE coiis vess-s lee whitve Rect SAIS oneal sth oes eae eh oealen eae PGM-FI fuel injection
FronUSUSPenSlOMN ysis.) ce epg ice Ce ne ee le eh Telescopic fork
REF SUSDONSION =. ais eos Re nt Sree nee cde eee ane Swingarm and twin shock
PROMU DrakOs oe efi 0s kce GSA oe aon a Ree etre Hydraulic disc
Rear Drake recs occ. snd cece tats lath o Paget te pekinese ey cera acs Drum
Fronttyre SIZ@) 4 cies. cas 040 pais Bae 6 een Re eee 110/90-13
Rear tyre SIZO? nec c tie cick aie, oH ce ie 130/70-13
Overalliength 5-0. aiccieciciha. ct < eR ee ee aa aaa tee ee lees 1990 mm
Overallhwidthiaies acagnrns ete See ee ee or ee oe ae 700 mm
Overallihteight reset nk ete wens adhe s tact : waebiemts amabten. oe 1150 mm
WVREGID ASO lire rie eicerretaters te ahe Se cao 2 )ore aoidry usraiy «ns Peano er 1340 mm
SO AUG eee hans aie t: crest eo ha a es SS GUS fear PO NG On ee aie 800 mm
Ground Clearance h:vicias cisions cie ahs sconcite sepled ot aoe eiaieredete a elke 125 mm
CUrDIWOIGIE crserib er a1eeeie hs eared cre ahahes soapaps Ga Aas ce tap 135 kg
FuelitankccapaCity ): ..,.'-:5, qsteastacicieudt > weonve sake hasten aire is ores 8.3 litres

Servicing specifications and lubricants

Spark plug type
CLA ETRCls 3 cies trGrereaiagcien seth Orp One acnereCuFt CIRC: aerate occa NGK CR8EH-9 or Denso U24FER9
Extended high speed riding..................00c cee eeeeee NGK CR9EH-9 or Denso U27FER9
Spark plug electrode gap ............ 0.00. cece cece eee eee 0.8 to 0.9 mm
Idleispeeier rays rvrcices ialaiteatucba wiewtls ceed Artya eralPeer § antares 1400 to 1600 rpm
Disc brake pad and drum brake shoe wear limits............... see Text
Rear brake lever freeplay.................000 cc cece eee eves 10 to 20 mm
Drum brake lining maximum diameter........................ 131 mm
Drive belt wear limit (see text)............0. 00.000: eee eee 21.5 mm
Throttle twistgrip freeplay ............. 0.0.00... c cece eee ee 2to6mm
Valve clearances (engine COLD)
INtaKGWalVernrrr atten iene in <a Gide s dau oe Kaa aide whee es 0.14 to 0.18 mm
EXHAUST ValVO Retr acest renee ire iar erareanare eee puvE etMnah ele 0.23 to 0.27 mm
FCG lft capt cer haiaken cabbie eatin, guntehe ny aletann chpraia tate * Petrol (unleaded) min 91 octane
Enginecollitype cs -tsriss actrees Wares oR ala heron he kage eerie ee SAE 10W30 or 10W40, API SG min, JASO MA or MB
Engine oil capacity
PASCONTCHCAIIHENG) evap nce oya.55, via, aelaly Glate dow sr gcur bse enced ageUbwl 0.9 litre
After engine disassembly............... 0... 0.00 cee eeeeeee 1.0 litre
Goglant tyne terns aire erwin ba thin ts teenies ae heals see Pre-ride checks
Cooling system capacity
Radiator andengine............. 0... ccc ccece weenie eeees 0.9 litre
RESCLVOlieiric afer ele aia heen s dite do Re ben eee hes 0.4 litre
CGarDOXtOMe mee ea ae sian vis Se ban tv a,sdb ch mae ine eee ad SAE 90W Hypoid gear oil or engine oil (see above)
Gearbox oil capacity
ATLQT GAINING) © seers Soci iss eis eocks itera dso OEMs dco eco ae 190 mi
After engine disassembly. .............. 00.00.00 cc cee eeas 220 mi
Brake utluiler tery secret fiancee wysiete eich ossealeoliss von fev oc ae DOT 4
Torque settings
Engine ‘oil:drain plug 226 650. ein ok os odes oo eee 20 Nm
SANK PIUIC ern rte easton fcrtlardee ere planes xe wld ela ante oR ere 12 Nm
Gearbox oil drain plug . 050.0... cae ce wees cece esc uun 27 Nm
Gearbox oil level plug ............ 0.0... ccc cece cee cece een 13 Nm
 Specifications and schedules 1¢13

Service schedule
Note: Always perform the Pre-ride checks before every service interval — see the beginning of this Manual.

ee Text section in | Every 2500 miles Every 5000 miles Every 7500 miles

y
this Chapter (4000 km) (8000 km) (12,000 km) (24,000 km)

Every 2 years

i i

oh

ieee7a
* Replace the air filter more often if the scooter is ridden in constantly wet or dusty conditions.
** The brake fluid must be changed every 2 years, irrespective of mileage.
**Drain and refill with fresh coolant every 2 years, irrespective of mileage
1-14 Specifications and schedules

Pantheon 125 and 150

Model identification
Engine 125 or 150 cc single cylinder, liquid-cooled four-stroke
GOAT OX i sialiin, 8 isco tdai'gteiaca:Br wb.eden sso Escle Edo Variable speed automatic, belt driven
Ignition Fully transistorised
BUC SYSTEM 5 5.5525 oa.e 4.pa nteio atatleye eonloohv ani.a) ea eae lene PGM-FI fuel injection
Front: SUSPENSION. 5 mic 50.6 Gon ayere scaettios enee aE RRR re ete Telescopic fork
Rear SUSPENSION 3 -..5.5)<. sa seec evan niece ere en ED cee ee Swingarm and twin shock
BrOntibrakes o saicis wictartvs = e,cre se chSRGR REDS GL te Re OTs sarees Hydraulic disc
Roam Dr aK eo sae is ivi sie <a ckoeewhettim SRE era BI SRE Ne rea ea Hydraulic disc
Erontjtyte:Size sc oi caew feted eek eer ee ae 110/90-13
ROAMGLYTE:SIZE 5 sisi 5, Ses 5 tigre meee ees I os eee 130/70-12
Overallilengthisis. as .5 2:0 ak.» van on eee RE I. es.wae actos oe 2090 mm
Overall Width cnc, cniiatore ut wn 4 cas 2 er Gale eekcheds orate, Ae 735 mm
Overalheightaaccne een cahihe ahareiiael mates atoiae einer sterme oe erat 1460 mm
WVINEGID ASG Mews. 8 ee ete ratser ack aycS eNe aoa tahssCoe ame eet aeRO 1490 mm
PSO EINOIQIN Geeta sia eS sievteze «in epintiaks eS eet ee eee ee 770mm
GrouncCloaranCe 7.40.2 «thse eck emannt ons ubimuaeen me WA, aud ade 130 mm
IVAW OIG therterrc credins «sis ee iinse s cotcc ee mean e nie Mec oeepauat Aion Ses 142 kg
CULDIWCIQME re rercstonc gike Ait ae amrete s Puna tpou incites ets 149 kg
Eurelitanks Capacity, vae-.sanhubs aver iaax wei ge oncee eee ns eee na 9.4 litres

Servicing specifications and lubricants

Spark plug type
SLANG ANC Mt titers. Pete siciecs cc sus re abies. Seto G,« i)Shan aw e¥e ees Glace? NGK CR8EH-9 or Denso U24FER9
Extended high speed riding...................00
eee eee ues NGK CR9EH-9 or Denso U27FER9
Spark plug electrode gap .............
0.00 cece eee cece eeees 0.8 to 0.9 mm
Bee BB OOE Soe
Sie laoiigikita « a rnin e.c tid ain eke kee oe < > 1400 to 1600 rpm
Disc brake pad wear limits ............. 00000. ccae ecece eeees see Text
Drive belt wear limit (see text).......... 0.0.0... cc cece eee 21.5mm
Throttle twistgrip freeplay ............. 0.00.0 ccc eee cece eee 2to6mm
Valve clearances (engine COLD)
Intake WalVereert tresaNt rh fairs & hite teagsisires. 40M ele ki MEME he 0.13 to 0.19 mm
EXHAUSUVAIVO tern in hie ice tae he dike won ote ene 0.22 to 0.28 mm
FCC TE ereME eo ocr ie usu Uae chAP dugspass dct uahaces oanGeka Rhea Petrol (unleaded) min 91 octane
ENGinerOlitypetrr trie on 50 anionic th cote s «are dw Sala saree wavanbere SAE 10W30 or 10W40, API SG min, JASO MA or MB
Engine oil capacity
PATLOVACIN ANNI eee eykev: Get acethis, sees tie, oleate ved Bah wrested 0.9 litre
After engine disassembly. ............... 00.0.0 cc ucecueuee 1.0 litre
COOLANT AY DC i veatehaystantaemcetepiar arnt epaesovin cee eearorae avon prowaralleha none see Pre-ride checks
Cooling system capacity
Radiatonandiengine. 3. fas. ....eot erst seen cee es bee 0.95 litre
PROSOIV OMe a raters rent ecba, Seah asisRal evans’ spsa.hessasuke cet wine 0.26 litre
GEaKMOxdollieret tices cictain hePe akos wikia os dc aus Se hee SAE 90W Hypoid gear oil or engine oil (see above)
Gearbox oil capacity
AATECTACCACM neck er fia atts. Soave: wie asvidiars, Se a Re tere Oe ee 190 ml
After engine disassembly. ................ ccc cc ccuccucce
. 220 ml
Ga SituGlee rerratia aocesradeay srersteis wired Mieledire wees oreaceie mnie Frama DOT 4
Torque settings
Enginevoll drain plug’... 002.0.50:s ose ben cove cussehlaee es 20 Nm
SSESICSU GS cde ea tetwax aeuatsre) cueneic aiissaise ions, sssBecaeeacn ee ae ee 12 Nm
Gearbox oil drain plug 31 Nm
Gearbox oil level plug 13 Nm
 Specifications and schedules 1-15

Service schedule
Note: Always perform the Pre-ride checks before every service interval — see the beginning of this Manual.

Text section in Every 2500 miles Every 5000 miles Every 7500 miles Every 15,000 miles
this Chapter (4000 km) (8000 km) (12,000 km) (24,000 km)
* |Air filter — replace*

Battery — check

Brake pad and shoe - wear check

Brake system — check**

Clutch — check
Cooling system - check***
Crankcase breather — clean
Drive belt — check
i
:
Drive belt — replace
Engine oil — change
Fuel system — check
Gearbox oil change Every 2 years

Headlight aim — check

Nuts and bolts — tightness check

Sp ark plug — replace

Stand(s) — check and lubr icate —_=

Steering head bearings — check

Suspension - check
S;fo}a @O 2. = ”
i?)=f@ oO ~~ pe)=) o pe) a
a

Transmission case filter - clean

Valve clearances - check

Wheels and tyres — check

* Replace the air filter more often if the scoo ter is ridden in constantly wet or dusty conditions.
* The brake fluid must be changed every 2 years, irrespective of mileage.
**Drain and refill with fresh coolant every 2 years, irrespective of mileage
1-16 Specifications and schedules

S-wing 125 and 150

Model identification
Engine 125 or 150 cc single cylinder, liquid-cooled four-stroke
GOaRDOX Heisei eee ccohs eel Seto char RARE ahd, aiiees Variable speed automatic, belt driven
Ignition Fully transistorised
FUGISYSTOM <.03cnc 5 lariat file on cea ws) 2 DECREE Reale. sac itena PGM-FI fuel injection
FrOnESUSPENSION 2 oie he ea Od wb arse ee ithe casks Telescopic fork
Reansuspension. 4.) ocona oa evel Aa ees | eer Swingarm and twin shock
Frontbrake i. 65 2 ei aie ee Secs nie eee cosa ee ote Re tac eee ae eed Hydraulic disc, ABS on A models
Rear brake ..c2 oat: 26)avajarsie ota bis alae pee ea eee Rees ede Hydraulic disc, ABS on A models
Front tyre'siZ6 enn. tac adcds wicks Miran te ee ree reere 110/90-13
RantyreSIZe rita os heres coel cas </d Sctehee SERGE OS paca are ao nnle ere 130/70-12
OveralhiiGngtns sire iz sate cis s.5.5 wace’s aOR RES ook avai Me ebarehoions 2090 mm
OVGrallEWIGUa sist aetteke ngs trae texa ace thayov ae teieies ADEN a cling teen 745 mm
Overallineighteres cocis . ocies oe ue bienie oc erate te Mae etnias 1435 mm
WNeGIbaSe error aeaieie stoma sper Diste Siatane hsPaes eee ee ee ee 1490 mm
SGatiOighyepa ye wesc see ieeee erechite» weSI A ee eee eee 772 mm
GroundiclearanCe sx scwvsncitia = ae ole cca ferhinie Gehe ee ae on nde eae 132 mm
Curb weight
SWIC 2 rete hon sya cha coeeeee amie rae een ToL e maciec eatin tele as Oe 156 kg
SWI Ghl SOAC reek schrsitercet herahaticoanh nae: Aiaeasta,cheteco tyra sae ma rome ms 158 kg
S=WINGM OO raters. ceaitsiees rtameticswenarenn anaeam canadien kets ers 158 kg
SWING OOA Metre aie oc clei tre eae Rae ear ree Met kaa e 160 kg
UO tan K(CApAaCity se. oir erecsicicks sass siosstoresd evthe oithe,Guayubushen adeeb eebita oe 9.4 litres

Servicing specifications and lubricants

Spark plug type
SLAIN errr, Sree eeustetetarcke eka ha) -acie's] = CoM Mane “tphahite whe eine NGK CR8EH-9 or Denso U24FER9
Extended high speed riding............... 0.000. cee eee ees NGK CR9EH-9 or Denso U27FERQ
Spark plug electrode gap .............. 00.0 cece cece eee eee 0.8 to 0.9 mm
FGISISDOOC er ert rte ier aae cet nar v8 e aticctbina eRara a ave’alalaealare ia Be 1400 to 1600 rpm
Disc brake pad wear limits .................00.0 ccc cece eee see Text
Drive belt wear limit (see text)............... 00.00.00 cee eee 21.5mm
Throttle twistgrip freeplay .......... 0.0... 0. ccc cece eee eee 2to6mm
Valve clearances (engine COLD)
INTAKCWWAIVO) atsyre rachis sie Bouche oetcl Rana afera she a Sonac atl Mehendvn eSate 0.14 to 0.18 mm
0.23 to 0.27 mm
UG I nme per trysent ee ctctsiet cepSvs ists vas vaithap easter paella Petrol (unleaded) min 91 octane
Engine roll t¥PG mae ts 8 etre at atclava Slsdivs wistorava eave 3 @ me whee tle aes SAE 10W30 or 10W40, API SG min, JASO MA or MB
Engine oil capacity
Attere GralminG rattan ys:«1s.00.5 «aie cea o's v.00 2 So eae ero howe 0.9 litre
After engine disassembly...................0.
0. cc uuu eeeae 1.0 litre
Coolantety peri pet siecle adsare eel halal ae Seale see Pre-ride checks
Cooling system capacity
Radiatorandiengines i. 5) cee. ees bee ce eee 0.95 litre
FROSOLVOI perience tre focbtaeh Oe ti interest jaceal lace eeere RON Te 0.26 litre
GEARDOXCON Mr. errant eae Sei Matiitc a kiana disalo wie w mere aye a APOE OR SAE 90W Hypoid gear oil or engine oil (see above)
Gearbox oil capacity
PATCOTECI EME) crete fete ntcetein tina tie vee'accn 0 uae ere eee eee 190 ml
After engine disassembly....................0 0.00 ccc eeecue 220 ml
BoerO MIU searspciao on ele Peas hicsiteinatoueldiTcvaid'e, susie Ged yet ee A vena DOT 4
Torque settings
Engineroilidrain plug <2. 75 fe esos eondos favo ee eee 20 Nm
SPATIG PING Was aicttstrac crontiwhaes teeat a itrensic a:siicey Secdactance Gee 12 Nm
Gearbox oil drain plug 25 Nm
Gearbox oil level plug 13 Nm
 Specifications and schedules 1-17

Service schedule
Note: Always perform the Pre-ride checks before every service interval — see the beginning of this Manual.

Text section in | Every 2500 miles Every 5000 miles | Every 7500 miles Every 15,000 miles
this Chapter (4000 km) (8000 km) (12,000 km) (24,000 km)
Air filter — replace* Vv

Brake pad and shoe - wear check a a:

Brake system — check** eS

Cooling system — check***

Drive belt — check

Drive belt — replace
Engine oil — change
Fuel system — check
Every 2 years

ci

* Replace the air filter more often if the scooter is ridden in constantly wet or dusty conditions.
** The brake fluid must be changed every 2 years, irrespective of mileage.
*Drain and refill with fresh coolant every 2 years, irrespective of mileage
118 Routine maintenance and servicing procedures

A 1.1 Undo the screws (arrowed) and remove the cover

BS

1.2 Remove the filter

Note: Refer to the model specifications at the outer side facing down, to dislodge any dirt, the terminals are clean and tight and that the
beginning of this Chapter for service intervals then blow through it with compressed air, casing is not damaged or leaking. See Chapter
directing the air in the opposite way to normal 10 for further details.
flow, i.e. from the inner side. Do not use any 3 If the machine is not in regular use,
1s Air filter
solvents or cleaning agents on the element. disconnect the battery, and give it a refresher
5 Fit the filter into the housing, making sure charge every month to six weeks (see Chap-
it is properly seated (see illustration 1.2). On ter 10).
Pantheon and S-wing models secure it with 4 See Chapter 10 for battery voltage test.
Caution: If the machine is ridden in the two screws.
continuously wet or dusty conditions, the 6 Fit the filter cover and secure it with its 3 Brake pads and shoes
filter should be checked more frequently - screws (see illustration).
if it is still serviceable you can clean it as in
Step 3, rather than replacing it with a new
2 Battery
HU
one.
1 Undo the air filter cover screws and remove Disc brake pad wear check
the cover (see illustration). On Pantheon and
S-wing models undo the two screws securing
KU 1 Each brake pad has wear indicators, either
in the form of cut-outs in the face of the friction
the filter element. Caution: Be extremely careful when
material, or in the form of a groove in the side
2 Remove the filter from the housing, noting handling or working around the battery. of the friction material. The wear indicators
how it fits (see illustration). Honda specify The electrolyte is very caustic and an should be plainly visible by looking at the
that it is replaced with a new one at every explosive gas (hydrogen) is given off when edges of the friction material from the best
service interval. the battery is charging. vantage point, but note that an accumulation
3 Clean the inside of the filter housing and 1 All models covered in this manual are of road dirt and brake dust could make them
the cover. Make sure the rubber sealing rings fitted with a sealed MF (maintenance free) difficult to see (see illustration).
fitted in the grooves in the housing and cover battery. Note: Do not attempt to remove the 2 If the indicators aren’t visible, then the
rims are in good condition and properly seated battery caps to check the electrolyte level or amount of friction material remaining should
- replace them with new ones if damaged, battery specific gravity. Removal will damage be, and it will be obvious when the pads need
deformed or deteriorated (see illustration). the caps, resulting in electrolyte leakage and replacing. Honda do not specify a minimum
4 To clean the filter in between service battery damage. thickness for the friction material, but anything
intervals, tap it on a hard surface, with the 2 All that should be done is to check that less than 1 mm should be considered worn.
y poz gt ape

, ‘s J c
q

7 se fy Fe ig E eek bs

1.3 Make sure each sealing ring (arrowed) 1.6 Fit the cover 3.1 Front brake pad wear indicator cut-out
is in good condition and seated correctly (arrowed)
 Routine maintenance and servicing procedures 1-19

3.7 Drum brake shoe wear indicator (A) and limit line (B) 3.8 Check an d measure the drum lining

Note: Some after-market pads may use of the right-hand brake lever actuates only the used, apply it sparingly as it may attract dirt
different indicators to those on the original front brake. (which could cause the controls to bind or
equipment. 1 A routine check of the brake system will wear at an accelerated rate). Note: One of the
3 If the pads are worn to or beyond the wear ensure that any problems are discovered best lubricants for the control lever pivots is a
indicator (i.e. the bottom of the cut-out or and remedied before the rider’s safety is dry-film lubricant.
the beginning of the groove) or there is little jeopardised. 7 Where disc brakes are fitted, if the lever
friction material remaining, they must be 2 Make sure all brake fasteners, including action is spongy (i.e. the lever does not
replaced with new ones, though it is advisable the reservoir cover screws, brake hose banjo come up hard and can travel all the way to
to fit new pads before they become this worn. bolts and caliper mounting bolts, are tight. the handlebar, first check the fluid level (see
4 \f the pads are dirty or if you are in doubt as 3 Make sure the brake light operates when Pre-ride checks), then bleed the brakes (see
to the amount of friction material remaining, each brake lever is pulled in. The brake light Chapter 8).
remove them for inspection (see Chapter 8). switches are not adjustable. If they fail to 8 Where a rear drum brake is fitted check
If the pads are excessively worn, check the operate properly, check them (see Chap- the amount of freeplay in the left-hand brake
brake discs (see Chapter 8). ter 10). lever (measured in terms of the amount of
5 Refer to Chapter 8 for details of pad removal travel in the end of the lever) before the brake
and installation. Brake levers comes on (see illustration) — it should be as
4 Check the brake levers for looseness, rough specified at the beginning of the Chapter. If
Drum brake shoe and drum action, excessive play and other damage. not adjust it by turning the adjuster nut on the
wear check Replace any worn or damaged parts with new brake drum end of the brake cable as required
6 Make sure the amount of rear brake pedal ones (see Chapter 7). until the freeplay is correct — to reduce
freeplay is correct (see Section 4). As the 5 The lever pivots should be lubricated freeplay in the lever, turn the nut clockwise; to
brake shoes wear and the freeplay is adjusted periodically to reduce wear and ensure safe increase freeplay, turn the nut anti-clockwise
to compensate, the wear indicator moves and trouble-free operation. (see illustration). Make sure the nut is set so
closer to the wear limit line on the casing. 6 In order for the lubricant to be applied its cut-out seats around the pivot piece in the
7 Apply the brake and check the position of where it will do the most good, the lever arm. After adjustment turn the rear wheel and
the wear indicator on the top of the brake arm should be removed (see Chapter 7). However, check that there is no brake drag. Following
in relation to the limit line on the casing (see if an aerosol lubricant is being used, it can be adjustment of the drum brake the cable for the
illustration). If the indicator has reached the applied to the pivot joint gaps and will usually linked braking system connected to the front
line replace the brake shoes with new ones work its way into the areas where friction brake must also be checked and if necessary
(see Chapter 8). occurs. If motor oil or light grease is being adjusted. Remove the front handlebar cover
8 With the wheel removed check the condition
of the drum lining, and measure its internal
diameter (see illustration). If it has worn to or
beyond the service limit specified replace the
wheel with a new one.

4 Brake system

Mil
Note: A// models are fitted with a linked
braking system, whereby operation of the 4.8a Check the amount of freeplay at the 4.8b ...and adjust if necessary using the
left-hand brake lever actuates not only the lever end... nut on the end of the cable
rear brake but also the front brake. Operation
1220 Routine maintenance and servicing procedures

4 x
A cas ‘

tree 3

aie en es
es as ‘

4.8c Check for the correct amount of freeplay at the end of the cable 4.8d ... and adjust if necessary by slackening the nut (A) and
(arrowed)... turning the adjuster (B)

Now check the operation of the brake lock — seeping fluid. Check extra carefully where the
pull the brake lever in, then pull the lock lever hose connects to the banjo fittings as this is
in so that it sets (see illustration). Release a common area for hose failure. On 2009-on
the brake lever — the lock lever should stay in. SH models with a rear disc brake, and on all
Now pull the brake lever in again and check Pantheon and S-wing models also check the
that the lock lever releases itself. hoses and pipes linking the front and rear
9 Wherea rear disc brake is fitted place the brake systems via the delay valve, and on
scooter on its centrestand and raise the front S-wing models with ABS via the modulator,
wheel off the ground. Operate the left-hand removing the body panels as required for
brake lever and check that it actuates not only access — refer to Chapters 8 and 9.
the rear brake, but also the front brake, by 11 Inspect the banjo fittings, and where
trying to spin the front wheel. applicable the pipe fittings; if they are rusted,
cracked or damaged, fit new hoses.
4.8e Check the brake lock lever (arrowed - Brake hoses and pipes 12 Inspect the banjo union connections,
metal type shown) as described Note: For a complete check of all brake hose and where applicable the pipe gland nuts, for
and pipe connections, especially on models leaking fluid (see illustrations). If they leak
(see Chapter 9). Check that there is 0.5 to with a rear disc brake and on S-wing A models when tightened securely, unscrew the banjo
1.0 mm of freeplay between the cable end with ABS, remove the body covers and panels bolt and fit new washers, or fit a new pipe and
and the cable joint piece (see illustration). If as required according to model for access gland nuts (see Chapter 8).
adjustment is required slacken the locknut on (see Chapter 9). 13 Flexible hydraulic hoses will deteriorate
the adjuster, then turn the adjuster in or out as 10 Where disc brakes are fitted, look for with age and should be replaced with new
required until the amount of freeplay is correct, leaks at the hose connections. Twist and flex ones every three years regardless of their
then tighten the locknut (see illustration). the hose while looking for cracks, bulges and apparent condition (see Chapter 8).

&

4.12a Check all hoses and banjo unions (A)... 4.12b ...and any hose to pipe joints and pipe gland nuts (B)
 Routine maintenance and servicing procedures 1-21

4.23a Fit the cable into the adapter... 4.23b ...and tighten the screw to seal it 4.23c ... then apply the lubricant using
in... the nozzle provided inserted in the hole in
the adapter
Brake fluid is binding without the handlebar lever being
pulled, first check that the lever is moving first disconnect the end of the cable from the
14 The fluid level in the master cylinder
freely, and that there is the correct amount of brake actuating arm. Note the fitting of the
reservoir(s) should be checked before riding
freeplay (see Steps 4 to 6, and 8). bush in the arm and the location of the cable
the machine (see Pre-ride checks).
20 Disconnect the cable from the left-hand return spring, and make sure that it is not
15 Brake fluid will degrade over a period of
brake lever, the actuating arm on the back of damaged (see illustrations).
time. Honda recommends that it should be
the brake drum, and the arm under the front 27 Apply the brake using hand pressure on
changed every 2 years, or whenever a new
brake lever (see Chapter 8). Check that the the arm and ensure that the arm returns to the
master cylinder or caliper is fitted. Refer to
inner cable slides smoothly in the outer cable. rest position when it is released. If the brake
the brake bleeding and fluid change section in
If the action is stiff, inspect along the length arm is binding in the backplate, follow the
Chapter 8.
of the outer cable for splits and kinks, and the procedure in Chapter 8 to remove the brake
Brake caliper and master ends of the inner cable for frays, and replace it shoes and inspect the brake cam and the
cylinder seals with a new one if necessary (see Chapter 8). springs on the brake shoes.
16 Check the brake master cylinder(s) and 21 If there are no signs of damage, lubricate 28 Apply some copper grease to the bearing
caliper(s) for signs of leaking fluid. the cable (see Step 23). If the cable is still stiff surfaces of the cam and its shaft before
17 Brake system seals will deteriorate over a after lubrication, replace it with a new one (see reassembly. Adjust the freeplay on completion
period of time and lose their effectiveness. Old Chapter 8). (see Step 8).
master cylinder seals will cause sticky operation 22 Thecable should be lubricated periodically Caution: Do not apply too much grease
of the brake lever; old caliper seals will cause to ensure safe and trouble-free operation. otherwise there is a risk of it contaminating
the pistons to stick or fluid to leak out. The seals 23 To lubricate the cable, disconnect it at its the brake drum and shoe linings.
should be renewed if defects are evident. upper end and use a pressure adapter and
18 Replace all the seals in the caliper(s) as a aerosol cable lubricant (see illustrations). 5 Clutch
set — a rebuild kit for each caliper is available. 24 Reconnect the cable and adjust the
Master cylinder seals are supplied as a kit freeplay (see Step 8).
along with a new piston and spring assembly 25 If the handlebar lever and cable are in
good condition, check the operation of the
(see Chapter 8). 1 Refer to Chapter 3, remove the clutch
brake cam (see below).
Drum brake cable drum, and check the condition and thickness
19 The rear wheel should spin freely when Drum brake cam of the friction material on the clutch shoes.
the brake lever is not activated. If the brake 26 To check the operation of the brake cam, If the friction material has worn down to or

4.26a Fully unscrew the nut and draw the cable out... 4.26b ...retrieving the bush and noting the fitting of the return
spring (arrowed)
 1-22 Routine maintenance and servicing procedures

6.3a Check the radiator and all cooling 6.3b ... between it and the engine as 6.6 Straighten any fins that are bent
system hoses... described - Dylan shown

beyond the minimum thickness specified at 5 Check the radiator for leaks and other evidence of leaks can be found, have the entire
the beginning of Chapter 3, or is otherwise damage. Leaks in the radiator leave tell-tale system pressure checked by a Honda dealer.
damaged or contaminated, replace the shoes scale deposits or coolant stains on the outside
with a new set. of the core below the leak. If leaks are noted, 7 Crankcase breather
remove the radiator (see Chapter 4) and have <
6 Cooling system it repaired or replace it with a new one.
Caution: Do not use a liquid leak stopping
Sxs
compound to try to repair leaks.
KU 6 Inspect the radiator fins for mud, dirt
Caution: If the machine is continually ridden
in wet conditions or at full throttle, the
and insects which will impede the flow of
Warning: The engine must be crankcase breather should be drained more
air through the radiator. If the fins are dirty,
cool before beginning this frequently. It should also be checked after
remove the radiator (see Chapter 4) and clean
procedure. washing the scooter, and if it has fallen over.
it using water or low pressure compressed
1 Check the coolant level (see Pre-ride checks). 1 Locate the crankcase breather drain tube on
air directed through the fins from the back. If
2 Remove upper front panel on SH, Dylan, @ the rear of the transmission casing, and place
the fins are bent or distorted, straighten them
and PS models, and the floor panel(s) on all a suitable container or a wad of rag under it
models (see Chapter 9). Check the entire cooling carefully with a screwdriver (see illustration).
(see illustration).
system for evidence of leaks. Examine each If the air flow is restricted by bent or damaged
2 Remove the plug and allow any deposits to
coolant hose along its entire length. Look for fins over more than 30% of the radiator’s
drain into the container or onto the rag. Refit
cracks, abrasions and other damage. Squeeze surface area, fit a new radiator.
the plug when all deposits have drained.
the hoses at various points. They should feel 7 Check the condition of the coolant in
firm, yet pliable, and return to their original shape the reservoir. If it is rust-coloured or if
accumulations of scale are visible, drain, flush 8 Dririve belt xs
when released. If they are hard or perished,
replace them with new ones (see Chapter 4). and refill the system with new coolant (see
3 Check for evidence of leaks at each cooling Chapter 4). Note: Honda recommend draining ~
RR
system joint. Ensure that the hoses are pushed and refilling the cooling system with fresh
_ fully onto their unions and that the hose clips coolant every 2 years. 1 Referring to Chapter 3, remove the drive
* are tight (see illustrations). Check the tension 8 Check the antifreeze content of the coolant belt cover. Check along the entire length of
of any hose spring clips and replace them with with an antifreeze hydrometer. Sometimes the belt for cracks, splits, frays and damaged
new ones if they are loose. coolant looks like it’s in good condition, but is teeth and replace the belt with a new one if
4 Check the hole in the underside of the too weak to offer adequate protection. If the any damage is found (see illustration).
water pump in right-hand crankcase cover hydrometer indicates a weak mixture, drain, 2 The edges of the belt will gradually wear
for evidence of leakage — the hole drains any flush and refill the system (see Chapter 4). away — black dust inside the casing is evidence
coolant should the internal pump seal fail 9 Start the engine and let it reach normal of belt wear. Measure the width of the outer
(see illustration 6.3b). If there is evidence operating temperature, then check for leaks face of the belt and compare the result with
of leakage remove the pump and replace the again. the Specifications at the beginning of the
seals with new ones (See Chapter 4). 10 If the coolant level is consistently low, and no Chapter (see illustration).
‘ee

Sy
Zz

Zs
Be
2 oi

8.2 ...and measure its width as shown

its plug (B)
 Routine maintenance and servicing procedures 1-23

9.4 Unscrew the oil filler cap to act as a 9.5a Unscrew the oil drain plug 9.5b ...and allow the oil to completely
vent (arrowed)... drain

3 If the drive belt has worn below the limit, or after the next specified mileage has been Discard the O-ring on the drain plug as a new
if the belt shows signs of fraying or. cracking, covered — see Step 11. If the oil is changed one must be used on reassembly.
or if it is contaminated with oil or grease, or at before the indicator light comes on, make sure 6 Clean the strainer in solvent and remove any
the specified interval regardless of condition, you reset it in the same way. debris caught in the mesh (see illustration).
it must be replaced with a new one (see Caution: Do not run the engine in an Check the mesh for splits or holes and replace
Chapter 3). Note: /f there is any doubt about enclosed space such as a garage or it with a new one if necessary.
the condition of the drive belt, replace it with workshop. 7 When the oil has completely drained, fit a
a new one just in case — a broken belt could 3 Before changing the oil, warm up the engine new O-ring smeared with clean oil onto the
cause severe damage to engine or gearbox so the oil will drain easily. Stop the engine drain plug (see illustration). Fit the spring
components. and turn the ignition OFF, and wait for a few onto the drain plug and the strainer with its
4 In the event of premature belt wear, the minutes to allow the oil to drain to the bottom rounded end facing down into the spring as
cause should be investigated (see Chap- of the engine. Support the scooter on its shown, then insert them into the crankcase
ter 3). centre stand, and position a clean drain tray and tighten the drain plug to the torque setting
5 Oil or grease inside the casing is evidence under the engine. specified at the beginning of the Chapter (see
that a crankshaft, gearbox shaft or clutch 4 Unscrew the oil filler cap to vent the illustrations). Do not overtighten the plug as
assembly seal has failed. Trace the source of crankcase and to act as a reminder that there damage to the threads will result.
the leak and fit a new seal. is no oil in the engine (see illustration). 8 Refill the engine to the correct level using
6 Clean any dust from inside the casing 5 Unscrew the oil drain plug and remove the recommended type and amount of oil
before installing the drive belt cover. the spring and the strainer, and allow the oil (see Pre-ride checks). Make sure the O-ring
to flow into the drain tray (see illustrations). on the underside of the filler cap is in good

9 Engine oil and strainer paw

xRN
Va
Warning: Be careful when draining
A the oil, as the exhaust pipe, the
engine, and the oil itself can cause
severe burns. To avoid getting oil
over your hands it is best to wear some
disposable latex or nitrile gloves, cheaply
available from most chemists and hardware
stores.
1 Consistent routine oil changes are the
9.6 Clean the strainer and check the mesh 9.7a Fit a new O-ring onto the drain
single most important maintenance procedure
plug...
you can perform. The oil not only lubricates
the internal parts of the engine, but it also
acts as a coolant, a cleaner, a sealant, and
a protector. Because of these demands,
the oil takes a terrific amount of abuse and
should be replaced often with new oil of the
recommended grade and type. Saving a little
money on the difference in cost between a
good oil and a cheap oil won’t pay off if the
engine is damaged.
2 The instrument cluster features an oil
change indicator light that comes on or flashes
(depending on model) after the specified
mileage has been covered since the last oil
change. After changing the oil be sure to reset 9.7b ... then assemble the plug, spring 9.7c ... and fit them into the engine
the indicator light so that it will come on again and strainer as shown...
124 Routine maintenance and servicing procedures
come on and then go off. Push the reset
button (see illustration) and hold it down
for more than one second, until the light
either goes off (if it was on), or until the light
blinks twice (if it was off). Release the reset
button and turn the ignition switch off.
@ On 2005-on SH models and all PS models,
make sure the ignition switch is off. Hold
the clock reset button (see illustration)
down and turn the ignition switch on,
and keep the button held down until
the indicator light goes off (if the oil was
changed because the indicator light was
Reset button (arrowed) - 9.11b Clock reset button (arrowed) - on), or comes on for two seconds (if the
@ model shown SH shown, PS similar oil was changed before the light was on).
Release the reset button and turn the
ignition switch off.
@ On Dylan models, make sure the ignition
switch is off. Hold the clock reset button
(see illustration) down and turn the
ignition switch on, then release the reset
button. Turn the ignition switch off, then
turn it on again and check that the indicator
light does not come on.
@ On Pantheon models, turn the ignition
switch on. Hold the clock reset and trip
reset buttons (see illustration) down
: : ae ss simultaneously, and keep the buttons held
down until the indicator light goes off (if
9.11c¢ Clock reset button (arrowed) - 9.11d Clock reset button (A) and trip the oil was changed because the indicator
Dylan reset (B) - Pantheon light was on), or comes on for two seconds
(if the oil was changed before the light was
condition and properly seated. Fit a new one used oil for recycling. Don’t pour used oil into on). Release the reset buttons and turn the
if necessary. Wipe it clean and smear new oil drains or onto the ground. ignition switch off.
onto it. Fit the cap and tighten it by hand. @ On S-wing models, make sure the ignition
MINaas) Check the old oil carefully switch is off. Hold the reset button (the
Saving a little money on the - if it is very metallic right-hand of the two reset buttons in the
AN
AN =)
difference between good HINT coloured, then the engine centre of the instrument cluster) down and
and cheap oils won’t pay off is experiencing wear turn the ignition switch on, and keep the
if the engine is damaged as from break-in (new engine) or from button held down until the indicator light
a result. insufficient lubrication. If there are goes off (if the oil was changed because
flakes or chips of metal in the oil, the indicator light was on), or comes on for
then something
is drastically wrong two seconds (if the oil was changed before
9 Start the engine and let it run for two or internally
and the engine will have to be the light was on). Release the reset button
three minutes. Shut it off, wait a few minutes, disassembled
for inspection and repair. and turn the ignition switch off.
then check the oil level. If necessary, top-up
the oil to the correct level. Check around the
drain plug for leaks. 11 Now reset the oil change indicator light as
10 The old oil drained from the engine described for you model: 10 Fuel system
cannot be re-used and should be disposed of @ On 2001 to 2004 SH models and all @
properly. Check with your local refuse disposal models, turn the ignition switch on - the
company, disposal facility or environmental light will come on and stay on; if the oil Ve
agency to see whether they will accept the was changed before the light was on, it will
Warning: Petrol is extremely
A flammable, so take extra
precautions when you work on
any part of the fuel system. Don’t
smoke or allow open flames or bare light
bulbs near the work area, and don’t work
in a garage where a natural gas-type
appliance is present. If you spill any fuel
on your skin, rinse it off immediately with
soap and water. When you perform any
kind of work on the fuel system, wear
safety glasses and have a fire extinguisher
suitable for a Class B type fire (flammable
liquids) on hand.
10.2a Fuel tap (arrowed) and hoses on 10.2b Fuel hose connection with the fuel 1 Remove the storage compartment (see
carburettor models pump on fuel injection models Chapter 9).
 Routine maintenance and servicing procedures 1-25

La

11.1 Gearbox oil filler/level plug (A), and oil 11.3 Unscrew the filler/level plug...
(arrowed) at the carburettor end drain plug (B)

2 Check the fuel tank and the fuel hose rebuilt using new gaskets and seals (see threads so that it is visible on the threads,
between it and the carburettor or throttle body Chapter 5A). and may just dribble out over them (see
for signs of leakage, deterioration or damage 7 lf fuel starvation is suspected, and if there illustration).
(see illustrations). In particular check that is a suction on the fuel filler cap caused by 5 If there is no oil visible top the gearbox up
there is no leakage from the fuel hose. Replace a vacuum inside the tank as fuel is used, the with the grade and type of oil specified at the
the fuel hose with a new one if it is cracked vent in the fuel cap is blocked. You could try to beginning of the chapter using a pump-type
or deteriorated. Make sure that the hose is clear the vent, but it is best to fit a new cap. oil can or oil bottle with a pipe fitting that can
secure on its union at each end. 8 If the fuel gauge is believed to be faulty, be inserted in the hole (see illustration). Do
3 If there is evidence of leakage from around check the operation of the gauge and sensor not overfill. If necessary allow any excess
the tap or the fuel pump, remove the tap or (see Chapter 5A or B). oil to dribble out until the level is correct as
pump and replace the sealing O-ring with a described in Step 4.
new one (see Chapter 5A or B). 6 Fit the plug and tighten it to the torque
setting specified at the beginning of the
4 The fuel tap on carburettor models is 11 Gearbox oil Chapter (see illustration 11.3).
vacuum operated and should be closed

HOE
Warning: If the oil level is very low,
when the engine is not running. Disconnect
A or oil is leaking from the gearbox,
the fuel hose (the upper hose) from the tap to
refer to Chapter 3 and inspect
check that the valve inside is not leaking (see
the condition of the seals and
illustration 10.2a). If the valve is leaking, fit
Level check gaskets and replace them with new ones
a new tap (see Chapter 5A). Make sure the
1 The oil level is checked via the filler plug as necessary.
vacuum hose is secure on its union at each
end, and check for cracks and deterioration which also acts as a level plug; the filler/level
(see illustration). Replace it with a new one if plug is on the rear of the gearbox casing (see Oil change
necessary. illustration). 7 Position a clean drain tray below the
5 On carburettor models cleaning or 2 Place the scooter on its centrestand on gearbox (see illustration 11.1). Unscrew the
replacement of the fuel filter is advised after level ground, making sure the rear wheel is filler/level plug to vent the case and to act
a particularly high mileage has been covered off the ground, then start the engine and run as a reminder that there is no oil in it (see
or if fuel starvation is suspected (see Chapter it fast enough to get the rear wheel turning. illustration 11.3).
5A). The filter is fitted to the tap inside the Stop the engine and leave it for a couple of 8 Unscrew the oil drain plug and allow the oil
tank, and is available separately from the . minutes. Check for leaks around the filler/level to drain into the tray (see illustration). Discard
tap. On Fuel injection models the filter is an plug, and the drain plug. the sealing washer on the plug as a new one
integral component of the fuel pump and is 3 Clean around the filler/level plug then should be used.
not available separately. unscrew the plug from the gearbox casing 9 When the oil has completely drained, fit the
6 If the carburettor gaskets are leaking, the (see illustration). drain plug using a new sealing washer, and
carburettor should be disassembled and 4 The oil level should come up to the lower tighten it to the torque setting specified at the

11.5 Using an oil can to top the gearbox 11.8 Unscrew the drain plug and allow the
11.4 ... the oil should be visible and just
up oil to drain
dribble over the threads
122, Routine maintenance and servicing procedures

ae le .

11.9 Fit the drain plug using a new sealing 12.3a Headlight adjuster screw (arrowed) 12.3b Headlight adjuster screw (arrowed)
washer - SH models - PS models

ee ork a be ‘

12.4 Headlight adjuster screw (arrowed) — 12.5 Release the trim clip (A) and remove 12.6 Headlight adjuster knobs (arrowed)
Dylan and @ models the guard to access the adjuster screw (B)

beginning of the Chapter (see illustration). ground, with the fuel tank half full and with clockwise to meve the beam down, and anti-
Avoid over-tightening, as damage to the an assistant sitting on the seat. If the bike is clockwise to move it up.
casing will result. usually ridden with a passenger on the back, 6 On S-wing models, the adjuster knob for
10 Refill the gearbox using the grade and have a second assistant to do this. each headlight is located behind the headlight
type of oil specified at the beginning of the 2 Adjustment is made by turning the adjuster and is accessed by reaching up under it from
chapter until it is at the level of the filler/level screw on the headlight unit as follows. the front. Turn the knob clockwise to move the
plug hole threads (see Steps 5 and 4). Fit the 3 On SH and PS models the adjuster screw is beam up, and anti-clockwise to move it down
filler/level plug and tighten it to the specified located at the front centre below the headlight (see illustration).
torque setting. unit (see illustrations). Using a screwdriver
11 Refer to Steps 2 to 5 and check the oil turn the screw anti-clockwise to move the 13 Idle speed
level again after riding the scooter for a few beam up, and clockwise to move it down.
minutes and, if necessary, add more oil. Check
around the drain plug for leaks.
4 On Dylan and @ models, open the glove box.
Use a screwdriver to turn the adjuster screw on HUW
12 The old oil drained from the gearbox the back of the headlight unit to move the beam
cannot be re-used and should be disposed of up or down as required (see illustration). Carburettor models
properly. Check with’your local refuse disposal 5 On Pantheon models, open the glove box, 1 The idle speed (engine running with the
company, disposal facility or environmental then release the trim clip (see Chapter 9, Section throttle twistgrip closed) should be checked
agency to see whether they will accept the
1) and remove the guard (see illustration). The and adjusted when it is obviously too high or
used oil for recycling. Don’t pour used oil into
adjuster screw is on the back of the headlight too low. Before adjusting the idle speed, make
drains or onto the ground.
unit. Using a screwdriver turn the screw sure the throttle cable is correctly adjusted,
the spark plug is in good condition with the
12 Headlight aim correct gap, the air filter is clean, and the
valve clearances are correct, referring to the
relevant Sections in this Chapter).
2 The engine should be at normal operating
Note: An improperly adjusted headlight may temperature, which is usually reached after 10
cause problems for oncoming traffic or provide to 15 minutes of stop-and-go riding. Support
poor, unsafe illumination of the road ahead. the machine on its centre stand and make
sure the rear wheel is clear of the ground. Lift
Before adjusting the headlight aim, be sure to
consult with local traffic laws and regulations. the seat and remove the small access panel
from the storage compartment to access the
1 The headlight beam can adjusted vertically.
idle speed adjuster screw (see illustration).
Before making any adjustment, check that the
tyre pressures are correct and the suspension Warning: Do not allow exhaust
is adjusted as required. Make any adjustments 13.2 Remove the small panel to access gases to build up in the work
to the headlight aim with the machine on level the adjuster screw (arrowed) area; either perform the check
 - Routine maintenance and servicing procedures 1-27

15.1a PAIR control valve (arrowed) . . 15.1b ...and reed valve (arrowed) 16.3 Pull the cap off the spark plug

outside or use an exhaust gas extraction and are securely connected at each end —
system 15 PAIR (pulse secondary air — refer to Chapter 5A or 5B for access. Replace
3 With the engine running, turn the screw as supply) system any hoses that are cracked, split or generally
required to set the idle speed correctly. SS
® deteriorated with new ones.
4 As no tachometer is fitted to enable the idle 4 Refer to Chapter 5A or 5B for further
speed to be compared with that specified, it 1 To reduce the amount of unburned information on the system and for checks if it
is sufficient to ensure that at idle the engine hydrocarbons released in the exhaust gases,
is believed to be faulty.
speed is steady and does not falter, and that a pulse secondary air supply (PAIR) system
it is not so high that the automatic gearbox is fitted. The system consists of an air supply 16 Spark plug
engages, or so low that the engine stalls. If hose connected between the air compensation
you are unsure as to what the correct speed chamber or filter housing (according to model)
should be take the scooter to a Honda dealer. and a control valve, and another hose between
5 Snap the throttle open and shut a few times, the control valve and a reed valve on the 1 Make sure your spark plug socket is the
then recheck the idle speed. If necessary, engine, which is linked to the exhaust port via correct size (16 mm hex) before attempting to
repeat the adjustment procedure. an air passage (see illustrations). The control remove the plug — a suitable one is supplied in
6 If a smooth, steady idle can’t be achieved, valve is actuated electronically by the ECU.. the Scooter’s tool kit.
and all the items listed in Step 1 have been 2 Under normal running conditions, the ECU 2 Remove the maintenance access panel to
checked, the fuel/air mixture may be incorrect opens up the PAIR control valve which then the spark plug on the right-hand side of the
(see Chapter 5A). allows filtered air to be drawn through it and engine (see Chapter 9).
7 lf the idle speed has been adjusted, recheck the reed valve and cylinder head passage 3 Pull the cap off the spark plug (see
the throttle cable freeplay. and into the exhaust port. The air mixes with illustration).
the exhaust gases, causing any unburned 4 Clean the area around the base of the spark
Fuel injection models
particles of the fuel in the mixture to be burnt in plug to prevent any dirt falling into the engine.
8 The idle speed is controlled electronically by the exhaust port/pipes. This process changes 5 Using either the plug removing tool
the idle air control valve and is not adjustable a considerable amount of hydrocarbons and supplied in the toolkit or a deep spark plug
— if it is incorrect, or the engine is difficult to carbon monoxide into relatively harmless socket, unscrew and remove the plug from
start and/or does not idle smoothly, refer to carbon dioxide and water. The reed valve in the cylinder head (see illustration).
Chapter 5B, Section 5. the valve cover is fitted to prevent the flow 6 Check the condition of the electrodes,
of exhaust gases back up the cylinder head referring to the spark plug reading chart at the
14 Nuts and bolts passage and into the control valve and air end of this manual if signs of contamination
filter housing. When the throttle is closed on are evident.
over-run the ECU closes the control valve to 7 Clean the plug with a wire brush. Examine the
prevent popping in the exhaust. tips of the electrodes; if a tip has rounded off,
3 The system is not adjustable and requires the plug is worn. Measure the gap between the
1 Since vibration tends to loosen fasteners, all two electrodes using a feeler gauge or a wire
little maintenance. Check that the hoses are
nuts, bolts, screws, etc. should be periodically type gauge (see illustration). The gap should be
not kinked or pinched, are in good condition
checked for proper tightness.
2 Pay particular attention to the following:
Spark plug
Carburettor/throttle body clamps
Engine oil drain plug
Gearbox oil filler/level and drain plugs
Stand pivot bolts
Engine mounting bolts
Suspension bolts
Wheel bolts
Brake caliper mounting bolts (disc brakes)
Brake hose banjo bolts (disc brakes)
Exhaust system bolts/nuts id

3 If a torque wrench is available, use it along 16.5 Unscrew and remove the plug 16.7a Using a wire type gauge to measure
with the torque specifications given throughout the spark plug electrode gap
this manual. —
128 Routine maintenance and servicing procedures
and the balls will gradually wear. In extreme
AN
AN =t=) Stripped plug threads in the cases, worn or loose steering head bearings

HINT
cylinder head can be repaired can cause steering wobble — a condition that
with a Heli-Coil insert - see is potentially dangerous.
‘Tools and Workshop Tips’ in 2 Support the scooter on its centre stand
the Reference section. with the front wheel off the ground. Note:
Do not rest the weight of the scooter on the
belly panel — have an assistant push down on
17 Stand(s) the rear or place a support under the frame
once the belly panel has been removed (see

IGE Chapter 9).

3 Point the front wheel straight-ahead and
slowly turn the handlebars from side-to-side.
1 The return spring(s) must be capable
16.7b Adjusting the gap using the fitting Any dents or roughness in the bearing races
of retracting the stand fully and holding it
provided on the tool will be felt and the bars will not move smoothly
retracted when the machine is in use. If the
as given in the Specifications at the beginning and freely. If the bearings are damaged they
spring has sagged or broken it must be
of this chapter; if necessary adjust the gap by must be replaced with new ones (see Chap-
renewed (see Chapter 7).
bending the side electrode (see illustration). ter 7).
2 Since the stand is exposed to the elements,
8 Check the threads, the washer and the ceramic 4 Again point the wheel straight-ahead, and
from time to time, depending on the extent tap the front of the wheel to one side. The
insulator body for cracks and other damage. of use, the condition of the stand and the
9 If the plug is worn or damaged, or if any wheel should ‘fall’ under its own weight to the
conditions the scooter is ridden in, it should limit of its lock, indicating that the bearings are
deposits cannot be cleaned off, replace the be lubricated periodically to ensure safe and
plug with a new one. If in any doubt as to the not too tight (take into account the restriction
trouble-free operation. that cables and wiring may have). Check for
condition of the plug replace it with a new one 3 In order for the lubricant to be applied where
— the expense is minimal. At the prescribed similar movement to the other side.
it will do the most good, the stand should 5 Next, grasp the front suspension and try
interval, whatever the condition of the existing be removed, and the old grease cleaned off
spark plug, remove the plug as described to move it forwards and backwards (see
(see Chapter 7). However, if chain and cable illustration). Any freeplay in the steering head
above and install a new one. lubricant is being used, it can be applied to
10 Thread the plug into the cylinder head bearings will be felt as front-to-rear movement
the pivot joint gaps and will usually work its of the steering stem. If play is felt in the
until the washer seats (see illustration). Since way into the areas where friction occurs. If
the cylinder head is made of aluminium, which bearings, follow the procedure described
motor oil or light grease is being used, apply below to adjust them.
is soft and easily damaged, thread the plug it sparingly as it may attract dirt (which could
as far as possible by hand. Once the plug is cause the controls to bind or wear at an
finger-tight, the job can be finished with the accelerated rate). AyNaia-) Make sure you are not
tool supplied or a socket drive (see illustration mistaking any movement
16.5). If a new plug is being installed, tighten it HINT between the bike and stand,
by 1/2 a turn after the washer has seated. If the
18 Steering head bearings
or between the stand and the
old plug is being reused, tighten it by 1/8 to 1/4 ground, for freeplay in the bearings. Do
turn after the washer has seated, or if a torque
wrench can be applied, tighten the spark plug to
WM not pull and push the forks too hard -a
gentle movement is all that is needed.
the torque setting specified at the beginning of
the Chapter. Otherwise tighten it according the Check
instructions on the box. Do not over-tighten it. 1 The steering head bearings consist of ball 6 Over a period of time the grease in the
11 Fit the spark plug cap, making sure it bearings which run in races at the top and bearings will harden or may be washed
locates correctly onto the plug (see illustration bottom of the steering head. The races can out. Follow the procedure in Chapter 7 to
16.3). Install the access panel (see Chapter 9). become dented or rough during normal use disassemble the steering head and re-grease
n Z Ww rn =]

* Po ae

16.10 Thread the plug into the head by hand to prevent cross- 18.5 Checking for freeplay in the steering head bearings
threading
 Routine maintenance and servicing procedures 1-29

“ fe ~ “at! : tae &\

\t Sy ow all TS as

18.8a Steering head bearing locknut (A) and adjuster nut (B) - PS 18.8b Steering head bearing locknut (A) and adjuster nut (B) -
model shown Pantheon/S-wing type

the bearings. If the bearings are damaged adjusted, disassemble the steering head and smoothly without binding. If binding is felt,
they must be replaced with new ones (see check the bearings and races (See Chapter 7). the suspension should be disassembled and
Chapter 7). 11 With the bearings correctly adjusted, inspected (see Chapter 7).
tighten the locknut tight - where no lock 3 Inspect the area around the dust seal
washer is fitted between the locknut and for signs of oil leaks, then carefully lever up
Adjustment adjuster nut make sure the adjuster nut does the seal using a flat-bladed screwdriver and
7 On SH, PS and S-wing models remove the not turn as you tighten the locknut (see inspect the area below it (see illustration).
inner front panel (See Chapter 9). On Dylan, @ illustration). If corrosion due to the ingress of water is
and Pantheon models remove the upper front 12 Check the bearing adjustment as evident, the seals must be replaced with new
panel, and then if required for better access described in steps 2 to 5 and re-adjust if ones (see Chapter 7).
the inner front panel (see Chapter 9). necessary. 4 If oil is leaking, the oil seal has failed and
8 Slacken the locknut (see illustrations). 13 Install the body panel(s) as required the fork leg must be dismantled and a new
9 Turn the adjuster nut, on Pantheon and according to model (See Chapter 9). seal fitted (see Chapter 7).
S-wing models using a suitable drift located 5 The chromed finish on the forks Is prone
in one of the notches, either clockwise to 19 Suspension to corrosion and pitting, so it is advisable to
tighten the head bearings or anti-clockwise keep them as clean as possible and to spray
to loosen them, and only moving it a small them regularly with a rust inhibitor, otherwise
amount at a time. After each small adjustment HUT the seals will not last long. If corrosion and
pitting is evident, tackle it as early as possible
recheck the freeplay as described in steps 2
to 5, before making further adjustments. The 1 The suspension components must be to prevent it getting worse, and if necessary
object is to set the adjuster nut so that the maintained in top operating condition to replace the fork inner tubes with new ones.
bearings are under a very light loading, just ensure rider safety. Loose, worn or damaged 6 Check the tightness of all suspension nuts
enough to remove any freeplay, but not so suspension parts decrease the scooter’s and bolts to ensure none have worked loose.
much that the steering does not move freely stability and control. Refer to the torque settings specified at the
from side-to-side as described in the check beginning of Chapter 7.
Front suspension
procedure above.
2 While standing alongside the scooter, apply Rear suspension
Caution: Take great care not to apply
excessive pressure because this will cause the front brake and push on the handlebars to 7 Inspect the rear shock absorbers for fluid
premature failure of the bearings. compress the suspension several times (see leaks and corrosion on the damper rod. Check
10 If the bearings cannot be correctly illustration). See if it moves up-and-down that the upper and lower shock mounting

ae f43
19.2 Compress and release the front 19.3 Check the tube for damage and signs
18.11 Where no washer is fitted between
suspension of oil leakage
them, counter-hold the adjuster nut while
tightening the locknut
130 Routine maintenance and servicing procedures

Ns

19.9 Checking for play in the engine 19.11 Checking for play in the rear shock 20.4 Throttle cable freeplay is measured in
mounts mountings terms of twistgrip rotation

bolts are tight. If a shock is faulty it should be freeplay before the shock begins to compress rotation before the throttle opens, and compare
replaced with a new one (see Chapter 7). (see illustration). Any freeplay indicates a the amount to the Specifications at the
8 With the aid of an assistant to support worn shock or shock mountings. The worn beginning of this Chapter (see illustration).
the scooter, compress the rear suspension components must be identified and replaced 5 lf there is insufficient or excessive freeplay,
several times. It should move up and down with new ones (see Chapter 7). pull back the boot on the cable adjuster at
freely without binding. If any binding is felt, the the twistgrip end (see illustration). Loosen
worn or faulty component must be identified 20 Throttle the locknut on the adjuster, then turn it until
and renewed. The problem could be due to the specified amount of freeplay is evident.
either the shock absorber or the front engine Tighten the locknut. If the adjuster has
mounting/pivot assembly. reached its limit of adjustment, reset it so that
9 Support the scooter on its centre stand so freeplay is at a maximum. Remove the storage
that the rear wheel is off the ground. Grip the 1 Ensure the throttle twistgrip rotates easily compartment (see Chapter 9). Loosen the
engine/gearbox unit at the rear and attempt to from fully closed to fully open with the nuts securing the lower end of the cable in the
rock it from side to side — there should be no handlebars turned at various angles, and that carburettor or throttle body bracket and thread
discernible freeplay felt between the engine and the twistgrip returns automatically to the fully them up or down the cable as required until
frame (see illustration). If there is movement, closed position when released. the freeplay is correct, and tighten the locknut
refer to the engine removal section in Chapter 2 If the throttle sticks, this is probably due to (see illustration). If the freeplay cannot be
2. and check the tightness of the bolts securing a cable fault. Follow the procedure in Chapter set correctly replace the cable with a new one
the front engine pivot assembly. 5A and disconnect the cable at the twistgrip (see Chapter 5A or B).
10 Re-check for movement. If freeplay is felt, end, then lubricate it using a pressure adapter 6 Start the engine and check the idle speed.
disconnect the rear shock absorber lower and aerosol cable lubricant (see illustrations If the idle speed is too high, this could be due
mountings and displace the shock, then 4.23a, b and c). to incorrect adjustment of the cable. Loosen
check again — any freeplay in the front engine 3 If the throttle action is still stiff, remove the the locknut and turn the adjuster in — if the
mountings should be more evident. If there is body panels as required to access the cable idle speed falls as you do, there is insufficient
freeplay, inspect the mounting bushes in the and check for a trapped or damaged section. freeplay in the cable. Reset the adjuster (see
front of the crankcase and the pivot bracket If required, follow the procedure in Chapter 5A Step 4). Turn the handlebars from side to
for wear (see Chapter 2). and install a new cable. side and check that the idle speed does not
11 Reconnect the rear shock absorbers, 4 With the throttle operating smoothly, check change as you do. If it does, the throttle cable
then grasp the top of the rear wheel and pull for a small amount of freeplay in the cable, is routed incorrectly. Rectify the problem
it upwards — there should be no discernible measured in terms of the amount of twistgrip before riding the scooter.

20.5a Pull back the boot, then slacken the adjuster locknut (A)
and turn the adjuster (B) as required — throttle end
 Routine maintenance and servicing procedures 1-31
21 Transmission
case filter

1 Remove the left-hand lower panel, floor

panel or body cover as required according to
model for access to the transmission cover
on the left-hand side of the engine (see Chap-
ter 9).
2 Unscrew the two bolts and remove the filter
housing from the cover (see illustration).
Remove the O-ring from its groove and
discard it - a new one should be used (see 21.2a Unscrew the bolts and remove the
illustration). cover...
3 Release the tabs and remove the inner
cover from the housing (see illustration).
Remove the filter from the housing (see illus-
tration).
4 Clean the filter in solvent and squeeze it dry.
Check the condition of the filter and replace
it with a new one if damaged, deformed or
deteriorated.
5 Install the new or cleaned filter in a reverse
of the removal procedure.

22 Valve clearances
Po 21.3a Remove the inner cover... 21.3b ... and the filter

WHHL
1 The engine must be completely cold for this There should now be some freeplay in each clearance of each valve by inserting a feeler
maintenance procedure, so let the machine rocker arm (i.e. they are not contacting the gauge of the same thickness as the correct
sit overnight before beginning. On SH models valve stem). valve clearance (see Specifications) in the gap
remove the maintenance panel, then if 5 With the engine in this position, check the between the rocker arm and the valve stem
required for better access the body cover (see
Chapter 9). On Dylan and @ models remove
the floor panel (see Chapter 9). On PS models
remove the body cover and belly panel (see
Chapter 9). On Pantheon models remove
the small maintenance access panel in each
floor panel, then if required for better access
remove the floor panels (see Chapter 9). On
S-wing models remove the centre cover, then
if required for better access the body cover
(see Chapter 9).
2 Remove the spark plug (see Section
16). Remove the transmission case filter
housing (see Section 21). Unscrew the timing
inspection cap (see illustration).
3 Remove the valve cover (see Chapter 2). «
4 The valve clearances are checked with
the piston at top dead centre (TDC) on its
compression stroke (both valves are closed
and a small clearance can be felt at each
rocker arm). Turn the engine anti-clockwise
using a socket on the drive pulley nut until
the line next to the T mark on the alternator
rotor aligns with the static timing mark, which
is a notch in the inspection hole rim, and
the index line on the camshaft sprocket is
parallel and flush with the cylinder head top
surface, with the number 1 at the top of the
sprocket and the number 2 at the bottom (see os

illustrations). If everything else aligns but the

22.4b ... until the line next to the T mark 22.4c ... and the camshaft sprocket
1 is at the bottom and the 2 at the top, rotate numbers are as shown
aligns with the notch (arrowed) .. .
the engine anti-clockwise one full turn (360°).
132 Routine maintenance and servicing procedures

22.6 Slacken the locknut (A) then turn the adjuster (B) using a
the arm and the top of the valve stem as shown screwdriver until the gap is correct

(see illustration). The intake valve is on the O-ring, and smear the O-ring and the cap threads 4 Follow the same procedure to check for
top of the cylinder head and the exhaust valve with clean oil and the cap threads with grease play in the rear wheel. There are no rear wheel
is on the bottom. The gauge should be a firm (see illustration 22.2). Install the transmission bearings as such. The wheel is mounted
sliding fit — you should feel a slight drag when case filter housing (see Section 21). directly onto the gearbox output shaft which
you pull the gauge out. 9 On completion, check and adjust the idle turns on bearings located inside the gearbox.
6 If the gap (clearance) is either too wide speed (see Section 13). If any play is detected, refer to Chapter 3 to
or too narrow, slacken the locknut on the check the gearbox. Also check that play is not
adjuster in the rocker arm and turn the 23 Wheels and tyres due to a fault or wear in the rear suspension
adjuster as required using a screwdriver until (see Section 19).
the gap is as specified and the feeler gauge
is a sliding fit, then hold the adjuster still and HU Tyres
tighten the locknut (see illustration). Recheck
the clearance after tightening the locknut. 5 Check the tyre condition and tread depth
Wheels
7 When the clearances are correct install the thoroughly — see Pre-ride checks.
1 Cast wheels are virtually maintenance free, 6 Check that the directional arrow on the tyre
valve cover (see Chapter 2) and the spark plug
but they should be kept clean and checked sidewall is pointing in the normal direction of
(Section 16).
periodically for cracks and other damage. Also wheel rotation.
8 Install the timing inspection cap using a new check the wheel runout and alignment (see 7 Check the valve rubber for signs of damage
Chapter 8). Never attempt to repair damaged or deterioration and have it replaced if
cast wheels; they must be replaced with new necessary by a tyre specialist.
ones. 8 Make sure the valve stem cap is in place
2 The front wheel bearings will wear over a and tight. On some types, the cap doubles
period of time and result in handling problems. as a tool for the valve core. If a tyre looses
Support the scooter on its centre stand and pressure, and this is not due to damage to
check for any play in the bearings by pushing the tyre itself, check that the valve core is
and pulling the wheel against the hub (see tight (these caps are available in automotive
illustration). Also rotate the wheel and check accessory shops).
that it turns smoothly. 9 A smear of soapy water will indicate if the
3 If any play is detected in the hub, or if the valve is leaking — the leak will show as bubbles
wheel does not rotate smoothly (and this is in the water. If required, use the valve cap to
not due to brake drag), the wheel bearings unscrew the old valve and install a new one.
23.2 Checking for play in the front wheel must be inspected for wear or damage (see 10 If fitted, check that the wheel balance
bearings Chapter 8). weights are firmly attached to the rim.
 2¢1

Chapter 2
Engine
Contents Section number Section number
ARGH ALONE ET eRe Sere ke RA cite, ise Saws loa lanes see Chapter 10 idleispeed), © crit A zvr-cey ce Nh vicars teNip Gun Gin Susi taevels Oe see Chapter 1
CET TESLATAY EVAR (oA es Re ee if Initial Start-up, anc runninsien ov oie ewer sini ever) aetna 18
Camichaineblades and:Sprockets sis wc. 50 eee. Pesce eta ee ease 9 QiliPUROem eee aan cra ie Meter ares haan, 2 aha Skee cerDerene eae eae 16
Camsharmand*Ockenanns-<ceakean tn via st awaw oases see ols 8 Operations possible with the engine in the frame ............... 2
OMNES SOMMS eee eee... a ten cs ss esata bee's shel 3 PIStONIFINGSites ahs s.deisete cies aes cca pie Seine eve Sake ote ree eters 14
Crankcases, crankshaft assembly and bearings................ We PIStON Sd «va ai eh e.c a aye es Te POU ee ioe oat eae 13
SVN ICE ate eetiore nse a a aS licwln s carcadtios Wee fate 12 Shark PIUGIGAD Hers s.s dem bunch: bie se eA tin i a ete en ae see Chapter 1
Cylinder head and valve overhaul .............0cc cee eeeeeaes 11 Starter clutchvanedgearsiinn «mars te 2 <qae aiid eet eh ee eee 15
Cylinder head removal and installation ................0.00 eee 10 Startarinotoneiae Aye Gales col eaere eo ws wk SS meus see Chapter 10
Engine disassembly and reassembly general information......... 5 Valve"clearanCes ae Gaainwh ene os ieee oe Sia eresee Chapter 1
Engine removakand installation: sec.ccec sc) shee ee ee ce neo oe hs 4 Valve: COVel a FEY, sittts wjeci + suniie oss 28 a eating auscsieetelchehe =e eee 6
SOMOra ML Ontea ic)(ieMeN er = nae eee boc apt cie eels anata sets alee oN 1

Degrees of difficulty
Easy, suitable for
A
Ry
Fairly easy, suitable
.x Fairly difficult, SS Difficult, suitable N Very difficult,
S
novice with little
experience ~
for beginner with
some experience x
suitable for competent Ay
DIY mechanic EN
for experienced DIY W&
mechanic x suitable for expert
DIY or professional xxs

Specifications
General
Type Four-stroke single
Capacity
TIES (ATS7 S AR hacrch cRee eR Gtr oN RCRDRERE RCT CARR IP AE Sr 124.6 cc
TED pata(eER Ae Bern Phoseetiic, cacao Weg coeeit Mite gE arr area eee ee lS 202ec
Bore
TORS ce Penee ne irae cerehrieer esis fee write lens « care einva aioe d aah hielad 52.4 mm
Ha ONERIOELel serene tan te eee itaae Ie. ia aialend Aes hes ain so ee evaunteretia 58.0 mm
Stroke 57.8 mm
SOU MECS SION TAUO Metres ee - ~ aveldlalias oraqedd olep wile vitro Hopge tesla apalee 11.0 to 1
GYiINGehCOMPFESSION.v..¢ evieciae sare ese te ne eee ere en ences 200 psi (14.0 Bar) @ 600 rpm
SOOMMOSY State tatacr-vrs Stel pin viorale e bis eieree voi eelca ear yn oe Liquid-cooled
PIU TIG ALI ATT rete eos rime rte a na anon ceCarell eingah Gut ae ie pum erain Wet sump, trochoid pump

Camshaft and followers

Intake lobe height service limit (Min) ........-. +e eee eee eee tees 29.637 mm
Exhaust lobe height service limit (Min)... .... 06+... esse eee ee eee 29.395 mm
Rocker arm bore diameter
SSA CCAT C enera nie ACRE PE AeA PCE TCNee, WeRUSaTsc ge ba), eT ao Mote evela 10.000 to 10.015 mm
SERVIC Mit (IMUM) its. oea eta nae etm Go imine wie Mle Glew ehelnca aes 10.05 mm
Rocker arm shaft diameter
Cciacletna: kaa tee | Gene hi SIR to ne On eee CRROO oe Ree Ree nce a 9.972 to 9.987 mm
SOMiIGoOuiMe Imllinierecewes «Wee clerain canine wis acs c WT lels alee otsvL 9.937 mm
Rocker arm-to-shaft clearance
Ee ee eT eto Te eae Tihiiacayaitn Soe 6 oats, att 0.013 to 0.043 mm
Seynuitetenttl anti’ (agita)Vets ckaceecPees cn AE aca ERM gre tooo CIPRO cca 0.63 mm
2e2 Engine
eee een nN aero ek
Cylinder head
VE
(oftoteh (itz ae ieee bikin ern cretion.
cociGar amnip MMi oOcae 0.05 mm

Valves, guides and springs

WalVe iClearanG@Srm, «us cis «ix aleve SoS ian = ceueliena etree ammonautne cpsts see Chapter 1
Stem diameter
Intake valve
SLANG eee he nice ual snes Steere aco tet a (ava,octets ta shokalicaan wmeinaode ter> 4.975 to 4.990 mm
SEMice limit (MM) Meters aera es vtia makes hare mac eerieneios itive 4.90 mm
Exhaust valve
Standards. acerca eat eeatecderec ds cara mar aye Mn ne ARE eee 5 4.955 to 4.970 mm
SEnvice limits (Mim) cate eemetart arGhiave atte a sotePetaitene anya emp eeie 4.90 mm
Guide bore diameter — intake and exhaust valves
SLAC AC emp cremeterete Py oc Rete oust scetrsavade vince ecoiehin sualecee tecuePaeueirene 5.000 to 5.012 mm
SELVICS MM TItwiileax) Mewmeewe eee apes sere tucks 's,chanetenier sendyes ncaeetena att Mo 5.03 mm
Stem-to-guide clearance
Intake valve
Stamatis taste Gis, aca cheine-ecute ie aise oatcro aeweaeke 0.010 to 0.037 mm
SEMVICSNMMLe weer ittsicl eo aharion aus,ace)-Show <ratertnten svtecash Ahstate aries 0.08 mm
Exhaust valve
Stanclard seve eaten prcaee weieiarsiias Saas, a ncaa ener Parone 0.030 to 0.057 mm
SENVICEHI Miler rae wee aang ee Mitel eva o ele, Stans cere ae ermine 0.075 mm
Seat width — intake and exhaust valves
StanGlarcl meas or mers see oes cetera: cieyseerg i sehsule a:ca ahead one ROW Seatste eeerieers 0.90 to 1.10 mm
SONVICS TL. (TAX) Poets ater seas easite snails) 2:tye Rete ke aan See 1.80 mm
Valve guide height above cylinder head — intake and exhaust valves . . 11.35 to 11.65 mm
Valve spring free length — intake and exhaust valves
STAnGlarGlgncaebuaye cis sce katie nc 4 b.k e Saray eyaoggeaee Om mae ot, ae eae 36.2 mm
SERVICE METITE(MIMIM) estatescecesatien a een peeetaysodotte lsha:aiasa hefomen nie eneitenaata eaeeeo te 34.4 mm

Cylinder
Bore
125 engines
Slancarcl aretha sites hud ure ct seisioetnns Sco send MARTE 52.400 to 52.410 mm
SEIVICE MII IMAX) sane -onetennicls ticas coe.castMiaMera been Gye RAIN act,«ar 52.44 mm
150 engines
tal Gal Cena rete iantanies mew arbacs beactehacratercmaccie peaneteue Mains 58.000 to 58.010 mm
SOMVICO MIMIC, (CME) rabenctere yer estta cee cas autiane qielunte vous ach eeetenes atthe 58.04 mm
Wet acel imaXx) mera ntes eee regents am reins, Sic <a,niche GA Mana wiSalave 0.05 mm
OvalityaGut-of-rourc)) (imax) mest emmaredness ane at yas seme 0.05 mm
Haier (lax) mame eh. Rite eRsciapateeie sys: 5,0.8 aysudsheurohiens dint nans 0.05 mm

Piston
Piston diameter (measured 10 mm up from skirt, at 90° to piston pin axis)
125 engines
SLOMAN een ned Seve eh Pete stasis ata ced ch dea & ache dln Ae ene 52.37 to 52.39 mm
SSSEVIS) LTVits(MMII) yateerene este ccs! a)5)sokeaice a <a cchc ose ke ree ere 52.30 mm
150 engines
Sali ClalhG ercpsttenare were eats ane nkoho.@ 5,nazis -e°Sta sa ET a Pe 57.97 to 57.99 mm
SEMICEMIIL (MIN) eee ateathe ences ic oc aeee eo ae ay ee 57.90 mm
Piston-to-bore clearance
Stam ane reninc. 6 saris eck es IRAE Wiener cis. the eR RE OTe 0.01 to 0.04 mm
SSHVICSMIMUU (INN) ste ace carats cress GRE Sk es hs eas ee SR 0.10 mm*
Piston pin diameter
SSLEANING eters voc. 3 Bch apamen pte oVUGMaT Shirk n'a.ex xo eee 13.994 to 14.000 mm
SEMVicoimt (MM) Gra.s.c eth ge a eeeNetartle etn CS, woe ee ee 13.982 mm
Piston pin bore diameter in piston
SSETIG AC maredg ec = sv, alee’ apccls'va.p x ic« Menlo ehtnendtone’s Gate ae ea 14.002 to 14.008 mm
SSMIGE MIME (MAX) mrs kaw oreo a « cibice Meme alah cence Ge ciate a 14.02 mm
Piston pin-to-piston pin bore clearance
Standard. BORGER Win9a spe wee dE ene busin Waals ant aiken 0.002 to 0.014 mm
SSIVICOUNMM Eesare ctethe aan welsh s ascun sos alae este eh ae 0.02 mm
“If the piston-to-bore clearance exceeds the service limit, the cylinder can be rebored — Honda supply
+0.25 and +0.5 oversize piston and ring
sets. Following rebore, the piston-to-bore clearance must be as standard for a normal piston.
; Engine 2¢3
eer
Piston rings
Ring end gap (installed)
125 engines
Top ring
CLS EG | gameiiteg gen ee a rr 0.15 to 0.30 mm
ORM eeMTG (TCUAN) ice csdeel, Suet e, <vinsce v's « Awad Soeghalas 0.40 mm
Second ring
aE) oa 1c Ne MM ETERM CNIS SCD ats& << ood a's ax dd va HR 0.30 to 0.45 mm
See Ce ITH NIGIX) A BN Gets Nie «asst dees tcl ates 0.65 mm
Oil ring side-rail
ET OE NS Sy aS lias GA, tien 8 er 0.20 to 0.70 mm
See MATON TNR get Re whites» om oaks Dies sage wae 0.90 mm
150 engines
Top ring
SHETIIGE(2ly<ctpioeiien Si Mas ifis e e RE A 0.10 to 0.25 mm
ENV euiinity MAN ccm eee een ere mere ioe nite cesar care tokens 0.45 mm
Second ring
Sueiitceltl ve cin Seige WH 5 gidhicd re fic See eR eee ee 0.35 to 0.50 mm
SSMVIGSMMME MAN epee Nee aires wick c cle etna tee ma tee 0.70 mm
Oil ring side-rails
SLCC eld Sep cepa de detrueh 5 inideayceeShera ee ee 0.20 to 0.70 mm
SSGMC OME NTIAX |S settee ee cick: Colne eae Ce te 0.90 mm
Ring-to-groove clearance
125 engines
Top ring
SeAGeCle Cetera een Atte Ri, ct a) as ee ke 0.030 to 0.065 mm
DEIMICS MEME ITIAN) - soe meee aie OMe ee Bs aa te nee nue 0.105 mm
Second ring
SLATER pale SE SS SRR SS con roe ea RR eRe a 0.015 to 0.050 mm
SMU IGS MMC MAX mtu cin eres Gab uae + s-apeebaets Reeser sites, ole 0.095 mm
150 engines
Top ring
SABE |. corey 5M aR EAC Be EN Ie ee a 0.030 to 0.065 mm
SM EAN NE enceptcgss eign ars rie oie egehe cause Gack ess case 0.105 mm
Second ring
SotCAINS er re outa ta einai sash ae ie ake.gusts Seles sitio dahtos saa kb 0.015 to 0.055 mm
eMC TIE (BIRAN Hes ae tetneRee cakhahead Su.crnus 2.od sas yee weyetainne! Oxo ise 0.095 mm

Starter clutch
Starter driven gear hub OD
SSECIUIEI ALAM oo ieierartes slate, anetee ackscce > Gries BANK Mle at ae ores 39.622 to 39.635 mm
SERVICE LUTTE THN) ners eons yun cvelsneroieic <isicac eusuare ales ete ay a iaeur met tye 39.58 mm
Starter driven gear bush ID
SP ADICLLNC oe eva eee erie, ape eg eaguile ogsie © npeae ols da tausot eneres 22.026 to 22.045 mm
Sense nn (gallh) ee SO Seen ee eas erica can om aaoe 22.10 mm

Oil pump
Inner rotor tip-to-outer rotor tip clearance
SHUR GEIS liscctls ence RANE ERY NCIS EPSP STC ON CRORE Pero 0.15 mm
SEV COMIN HACINNUN) eee tease rea es cialevieyerates fopel so giehiea Manl eisunal 0.20 mm
Outer rotor-to-body clearance
SHBG EVatte ah Sheda 4 RANE tot ROE UE PEE Sic RO eNO eam 0.15 to 0.20 mm
vein eiig ct
SEMiColliiinie ina) ieeerie ate, dicoley als eysifele + srumilass_omacage 0.25 mm
Rotor end-float
SIETRG EO las Some dot Sh cetn at OIE LO NeChe ETS Panna SsucNo Beran oer 0.04 to 0.09 mm
Service) limits mex) eects saeteyacta aiela, ayate ews=: = disney e!lnirurs « ehenehals whale 0.12 mm

Connecting rod
Big-end side clearance
TET NTEETG lh adore Me AnOseib hay Or Leo c Oe RENT ekCeO ar. ede an a 0.10 to 0.835 mm
Semmes llititiet (ets) oe an cease aloe Acgien cool G h-geicve omeereoncan 0.60 mm
Big-end radial clearance
Eilat en ee ee meer erieee sas Tiae «oR legaha apes spanpaca yo Bom 0.000 to 0.008 mm
SIeCVICG MEMILAITIAX) ¢ puslvlel impaley saye cate ae + eels WRN? Reta y at 0.05 mm
Small-end inside diameter
StAMC ANC mercer Rea hh Ta SS ee es eed ce Pus 6 2d 14.016 to 14.034 mm
Service limit a ck PE GME elrcarcit MoI a aha age aos 14.06 mm
 2e4 Engine

Crankshaft
ERE CUUIEY(Ica pete tes chslenen 210seeded Stewotacyeta stees 0.10 mm

Torque settings
Camshaft:holderinutss 2.0.2) 2). sae ss bee = 27 Nm
Cam chain sprocket bolts to camshaft ....... 9Nm
Cam chain tensioner blade pivot bolt ........ 10 Nm
CrankCaseiboltSiraen tanec sie mecemetun
eee 12 Nm
Engine hanger bracket-to-engine bolt/nut..... 49 Nm
Engine hanger bracket-to-frame bolts nuts... . 49 Nm
StartenmGlutChiDolise na tae ae eererS ae ieee 30 Nm
E Walveicovenbolts= 2s tas venom te saree cies mots 12 Nm

on the outcome of the initial test, a squirt-type build-up of carbon deposits in the combustion
1 General information oil can may also be needed. chamber. Remove the cylinder head and
1 Poor engine performance may be caused scrape all deposits off the piston and the
by leaking valves, incorrect valve clearances, cylinder head.
a leaking head gasket, or a worn piston, piston
The engine is a single cylinder, overhead- rings or cylinder bore. A cylinder compression 4 Engine removal and
camshaft four-stroke, with pumped liquid check will highlight these conditions and installation
cooling (see Chapter 4). The camshaft is can also indicate the presence of excessive
chain-driven off the crankshaft and operates carbon deposits in the cylinder head.
the valves via rocker arms. 2 Make sure the valve clearances are correctly
Caution: The engine/transmission unit is
The crankshaft assembly is pressed set (see Chapter 1) and that the camshaft
not heavy, however removal and installation
together, incorporating the connecting rod. holder nuts are tightened to the correct torque
should be carried out with the aid of an
The crankcase divides vertically — the setting (see Section 10).
assistant; personal injury or damage could
left-hand crankcase is an integral part of the 3 Run the engine until it is at normal operating
occur if the engine falls or is dropped.
transmission casing and gearbox. temperature. Remove the spark plug (see
Chapter 1). Fit the plug back into the plug cap Removal
and ground the plug against the engine away 2001 to 2004 SH models, all Dylan
2 Operations possible with the
from the plug hole — if the plug is not grounded models, all @ models
engine in the frame
the ignition system could be damaged. 1 Support the scooter on its centrestand.
4 Fit the adaptor and gauge into the spark Work can be made easier by raising the
plug hole. machine to a suitable height on a hydraulic
Most components and assemblies, with 5 With the ignition switch ON, the throttle ramp or a suitable platform. Make sure it is
the exception of the crankshaft assembly held fully open and the spark plug grounded, secure and will not topple over.
and its bearings, can be worked on without turn the engine over on the starter motor until 2 Remove the body cover and floor panel (see
having to remove the engine/transmission unit the gauge reading has built up and stabilised. Chapter 9).
from the frame. If a number of areas require 6 Compare the reading on the gauge to the 3 If the engine is dirty, particularly around its
attention at the same time, removal of the cylinder compression figure specified at the mountings, wash it thoroughly before starting
engine is recommended, as it is an easy task beginning of the Chapter (under General any major dismantling work. This will make
to undertake. specifications). work much easier and rule out the possibility
7 If the reading is low, it could be due to a worn of dirt falling inside.
3 Compression test cylinder bore, piston or rings, failure of the head 4 Drain the engine oil (see Chapter 1) and
gasket, or worn valve seats. To determine which coolant (see Chapter 4).
is the cause, pour a small quantity of engine oil 5 Disconnect the battery negative terminal
into the spark plug hole to seal the rings, then (see Chapter 10). Disconnect the engine earth
repeat the compression test. If the figures are (ground) lead (see illustration).
Special tool: A compression gauge (with a 10 noticeably higher the cause is worn cylinder, 6 Remove the exhaust system (see Chapter 5A).
mm threaded adapter to fit the spark plug hole piston or rings. If there is no change the cause is 7 Disconnect the coolant inlet and outlet
in the cylinder head) and a 16 mm hex size a leaking head gasket or worn valve seats. hoses from their unions on the engine (see
spark plug socket will be needed. Depending 8 If the reading is high there could be a illustrations).
Es : ¥ ack OO et

fee
i

4.5 Unscrew the bolt (arrowed) and detach 4.7a Release the clamps and detach the 4.7b ...and the inlet hose (arrowed)
the lead
outlet hose (arrowed)...
 Engine 2¢5

ae ‘mae

4.11a Disconnect the relevant wiring 4.13 Unscrew the bolt and displace the
connectors connectors — Dylan cable guide

8 Remove the air filter housing and if required from the underside of the transmission casing machine to a suitable height on a hydraulic
the air compensation chamber (see Chap- (see illustration). ramp or a suitable platform. Make sure it is
ter 5A). 14 Check that all relevant wiring, cables secure and will not topple over.
9 If required now either remove the and hoses are free and clear of the engine/ 21 Remove the body cover and floor panel(s)
carburettor, or displace it from the cylinder transmission unit. (see Chapter 9).
head leaving the throttle cable attached, but 15 Place a suitable support under the rear of 22 If the engine is dirty, particularly around its
note that either can be done after removing the bottom section of the frame. Remove the mountings, wash it thoroughly before starting
the engine, in which case just disconnect rear shock absorbers (see Chapter 7). any major dismantling work. This will make
the fuel hose and the fuel tap vacuum hose 16 Unscrew the bolts securing the engine work much easier and rule out the possibility
from their unions on the carburettor and inlet hanger bracket to the frame (see illustration). of dirt falling inside.
manifold respectively, and disconnect the Either manoeuvre the engine unit back and 23 Drain the engine oil (see Chapter 1) and
throttle cable, and the automatic choke and out of the frame, or alternatively lift the frame coolant (see Chapter 4).
throttle position sensor wiring connectors (See up off the engine unit and move it clear, 24 Disconnect the battery negative terminal
Chapter 5A). making sure it is properly supported (see (see Chapter 10). On SH and PS models
10 Either remove the starter motor, or illustration). disconnect the engine earth (ground) lead
disconnect the lead(s) from it (see Chap- 17 Asrequired and if not already done remove (see illustration 4.5).
ter 10). the carburettor and air intake chamber, and 25 Remove the exhaust system (see Chapter
41 Trace the wiring from the alternator and the PAIR control valve (see Chapter 5A), and 5B).
ignition pulse generator coil from the right-hand the ignition coil (see Chapter 6). Unscrew the 26 Disconnect the coolant inlet and outlet
side of the engine and disconnect it at the nut and withdraw the bolt securing the hanger hoses from their unions on the engine (see
connectors (see illustration). Disconnect the bracket and detach it from the engine (see illustrations 4.7a and b).
common wiring connector for the PAIR system illustration). 27 Remove the air filter housing and the air
control valve, coolant temperature sensor and 18 If required, remove the centre stand (see intake chamber (SH and PS models) or duct
thermostat housing earth wire. Disconnect the Chapter 7) and the rear wheel (see Chapter 8), (Pantheon and S-wing models) (see Chapter
primary wiring connectors from the ignition but see the Note in Step 12. 5B).
coil (see illustration). Free the wiring from any 19 Check the condition of the engine 28 Remove the fuel injector/throttle body/
relevant clips or ties on the engine and frame. mounting bushes and bump pads in the ECM assembly (see Chapter 5B).
12 If you are going to be removing the rear hanger bracket and the bushes in the engine 29 Either remove the starter motor, or
wheel loosen the rear wheel nut at this point and replace them with new ones if worn or disconnect the leads from it (see Chapter 10).
before disconnecting the rear brake. Note: 30 Trace the wiring from the alternator
deteriorated.
The rear wheel and centrestand provide a and ignition pulse generator coil from the
2005-on SH models, all PS models, all right-hand side of the engine and disconnect
convenient support for the unit once it is
Pantheon and S-wing models it at the connectors. Disconnect the PAIR
removed from the scooter.
13 Disconnect the brake cable from the brake 20 Support the scooter on its centrestand. system control valve wiring connector. Pull
arm (see Chapter 8). Detach the cable guide(s) Work can be made easier by raising the the cap off the spark plug. Disconnect the

ma <
4.16b ... and manoeuvre the engine unit 4.17 Unscrew the nut, withdraw the bolt
4.16a Unscrew the bolt (arrowed) on eac
side... back and remove the bracket
 2°6 Engine

® Tighten the engine hanger bracket bolts incorrect approach or removal method - if in
bolt to the torque settings specified at the any doubt, re-check with the text.
beginning of the chapter. 7 A complete engine stripdown should be
@ Make sure all wires, cables and hoses done in the following general order with
are correctly routed and connected, and reference to the appropriate Sections.
secured by any clips or ties. Remove the valve cover
@ Check the operation of the rear brake Remove the camshaft and rocker arms
before riding the machine (see Chapter 8). Remove the cylinder head
Remove the cam chain and blades
Remove the cylinder block and piston
5 Engine disassembly Remove the starter motor (see Chapter 10)
and reassembly general Remove the transmission assembly (see
information Chapter 3)
4.30 Coolant temperature sensor wiring Remove the water pump (see Chapter 4)
connector (arrowed) Remove the alternator and starter clutch
wire from the coolant temperature sensor (see
1 Before beginning the engine overhaul, read (see Chapter 10)
illustration). On Pantheon and S-wing models
through the related procedures to familiarise Remove the oil pump
yourself with the scope and requirements of Separate the crankcase halves
trace the wiring from the speed sensor next to
the job. Overhauling an engine is not all that Remove the crankshaft
the left-hand shock absorber and disconnect
difficult, but it is time consuming. Check on
it at the wiring connector. Free the wiring from
any relevant clips or ties on the engine and
the availability of parts and make sure that Reassembly
frame. any necessary special tools are obtained in 8 Reassembly is accomplished by reversing
advance. the general disassembly sequence.
31 If you are going to be removing the rear
2 Most work can be done with a decent set
wheel loosen the rear wheel nut at this point
of typical workshop hand tools, although
before disconnecting the rear brake. Note:
a number of precision measuring tools are
The rear wheel and centrestand provide a 6 Valve cover
required for inspecting parts to determine if
convenient support for the unit once it is
they are worn.
removed from the scooter.
32 On models fitted with a drum rear brake,
3 To ensure maximum life and minimum
trouble from a rebuilt engine, everything must
Wily
disconnect the brake cable from the brake
be assembled with care and lubricated as Note: This procedure can be carried out with
arm (see Chapter 8). Detach the cable guide(s)
directed, in a spotlessly clean environment. the engine in the frame. If the engine has
from the underside of the transmission casing
(see illustration 4.13). Disassembly been removed, ignore the steps that do not
33 On models fitted with a disc rear brake, apply.
4 Before disassembling the engine, thoroughly
displace the brake caliper and the brake hose
clean and degrease its external surfaces.
guide (see Chapter 8). Removal
This will prevent contamination of the engine
34 Check that all relevant wiring, cables
internals, and will also make the job a lot easier 1 On SH models remove the maintenance
and hoses are free and clear of the engine/
and cleaner. A high flash-point solvent, such panel, then if required for better access the
transmission unit.
as paraffin (kerosene) can be used, or better body cover (see Chapter 9). On Dylan and @
35 Place a suitable support under the rear of
still, a proprietary engine degreaser such as models remove the floor panel (see Chapter
the bottom section of the frame. Remove the
Gunk. Use old paintbrushes and toothbrushes 9). On PS models remove the body cover (see
rear shock absorbers (see Chapter 7).
to work the solvent into the various recesses Chapter 9). On Pantheon models remove the
36 Unscrew the bolts securing the engine
of the casings. Take care to exclude solvent small maintenance access panel in each
hanger bracket to the frame (see illustration
or water from the electrical components and floor panel, then if required for better access
4.16a). Either manoeuvre the engine unit back
intake and exhaust ports. remove the floor panels (see Chapter 9). On
and out of the frame, or alternatively lift the
Warning: The use of petrol (gasoline) S-wing models remove the centre cover, then
frame up off the engine unit and move it clear,
as a cleaning agent should be if required for better access the body cover
making sure it is properly supported (see
avoided because of the risk of fire. (see Chapter 9).
illustration 4.16b).
5 When clean and dry, position the engine 2 Release the clips and detach the crankcase
37 Unscrew the nut and withdraw the bolt
on the workbench, leaving suitable clear breather and PAIR system hoses from the
securing the hanger bracket and detach it
area for working. Gather a selection of small valve cover (see illustration).
from the engine (see illustration 4.17).
containers, plastic bags and some labels so 3 Unscrew the bolts securing the valve cover,
38 If required, remove the centre stand (see
that parts can be grouped together in an easily
Chapter 7) and the rear wheel (see Chapter 8),
identifiable manner. Also get some paper and
but see the Note in Step 31.
a pen so that notes can be taken. You will also
39 Check the condition of the engine
need a supply of clean rag, which should be
mounting bushes and bump pads in the
as absorbent as possible.
hanger bracket and the bushes in the engine
6 Before commencing work, read through the
and replace them with new ones if worn or appropriate section so that some idea of the
deteriorated.
necessary procedure can be gained. When
removing components note that great force is
Installation seldom required, unless specified (checking
the specified torque setting of the particular
40 Installation is the reverse of removal,
bolt being removed will indicate how tight
noting the following:
@
it is, and therefore how much force should
Make sure no wires, cables or hoses
be needed). In many cases, a component’s
become trapped between the engine and 6.2 Detach the hoses (A), then unscrew
reluctance to be removed is indicative of an
the frame when installing the engine.
the bolts (B)...
 Engine 2¢7

then lift the cover off (see illustration). If

the cover is stuck, tap around the joint face
between the cover and the cylinder head with
a soft-faced mallet to free it. Do not try to lever
the cover off as this may damage the sealing
surfaces.
4 Remove the air passage collar and O-ring
(see illustration). Remove the gasket. Discard
both as new ones should be used. Check the
condition of the bolt sealing washers and
replace them with new ones if necessary.
Installation
5 Clean the mating surfaces of the cylinder
/
6.4 Remove the collar and its O-ring
head and the valve cover with a suitable (arrowed)
solvent to remove any traces of old gasket or
sealant.
6 Fit the air passage collar, then fit a new
O-ring smeared with oil around it (see
illustration 6.4). Fit the sealing washers onto
the bolts, making sure the UP mark faces the
head of the bolt.
7 Fit the new gasket into the groove in the
valve cover using dabs of grease to keep it in
place (see illustration).
8 Position the valve cover on the cylinder
head, making it locates over the air passage
collar and the gasket stays in place (see
a E il
illustration 6.3). Fit the bolts and tighten them
evenly and a bit at a time to the torque setting 6.7 Fit anew gasket into the groove 6.8 Fit the bolts with their washers, using
specified at the beginning of the Chapter (see new ones if necessary and making sure
illustration). 3 Insert a small flat-bladed screwdriver in they are the correct way up
9 Fit the crankcase breather and PAIR system the end of the tensioner so that it engages
hoses fully onto their unions and secure them tensioner and cylinder block surfaces are
the slotted plunger (see illustration). Turn
with the clamps (see illustration 6.2). clean and dry.
the screwdriver clockwise until the plunger is
10 Install the body covers and panels as fully retracted and hold it in this position, then Installation
required (see Chapter 9). unscrew and remove the tensioner mounting 7 Ensure the tensioner and cylinder block
bolts and withdraw the tensioner, moving the surfaces are clean and dry.
hose/cable bracket aside (see illustration). 8 Fit a new gasket onto the tensioner body.
7 Cam chain tensioner Release the screwdriver — the plunger will Insert a small flat-bladed screwdriver in the end
spring back out, but can be easily reset on of the tensioner so that it engages the slotted
Wilt installation.
4 Discard the gasket and O-ring as new ones
plunger, then turn the screwdriver clockwise
until the plunger is fully retracted and hold it
Note: This procedure can be carried out with must be used on installation. Do not attempt in this position, then fit the tensioner and the
the engine in the frame. If the engine has been to dismantle the tensioner. bracket and tighten the mounting bolts (see
removed, ignore the steps that do not apply. illustration 7.3b). Release and remove the
Inspection screwdriver — you should see the winding
Removal 5 Examine the tensioner components for mechanism turn as the plunger extends and
1 Remove the body cover (see Chapter 9). signs of wear or damage. takes up the slack.
2 Undo the tensioner cap screw and remove 6 Check that the plunger moves smoothly 9 Fit a new O-ring smeared with clean oil
the O-ring (see illustration). Slacken the when wound into the tensioner and springs onto the tensioner, then fit the cap screw and
tensioner mounting bolts slightly. back out freely when released. Ensure the tighten it (see illustration 7.2).
a

NY

7.2 Undo the cap screw, then slacken the 7.3a Use a small screwdriver to retract the 7.3b ... then remove the tensioner
bolts (arrowed) plunger...
 2°8 Engine

10 It is advisable to remove the valve cover 5 Remove the cam chain tensioner (see
(see Section 6) and check that the cam chain Section 7).
is tensioned — refer to Section 8, Step 4 and 6 Counter-hold the engine using a socket.
turn the engine a few times. If it is slack, the on the drive pulley nut to prevent it turning
tensioner plunger did not release. Remove (see illustration 8.4a). and unscrew the bolts
the tensioner and check the operation of the securing the cam chain sprocket to the camshaft
plunger again. (see illustration 8.4c). Slip the sprocket off its
11 Install the body panels (see Chapter 9). flange on the end of the camshaft and disengage

8 Camshaft and rocker arms . it from the chain (see illustration). Prevent the
chain from dropping down its tunnel by securing

BS
w~
it with a piece of wire.
7 Remove the circlip securing the camshaft
y
7 in the holder, then draw the camshaft out
8.2 Remove the timing inspection cap (see illustration). Discard the circlip if it has
Note: The camshaft and rockers can be
deformed and fit a new one on assembly.
removed with the engine in the frame. Stuff
Remove the transmission case filter housing While the camshaft is out do not rotate the
clean rag into the cam chain tunnel to prevent
(see Chapter 1). Unscrew the timing inspection crankshaft — the chain may drop down and
anything dropping into the engine. When
cap (see illustration). bind between the crankshaft and case, which
setting the position of the crankshaft for the
3 Remove the valve cover (see Section 6). could damage these components.
engine timing (Steps 4 and 19), be sure that
4 The engine must be at top dead centre 8 Working on one rocker shaft at a time,
you have the correct timing mark on the
(TDC) on its compression stroke. Turn the remove the shaft circlip, then thread a 5mm
flywheel — do not confuse the T mark that
engine anti-clockwise using a socket on the bolt into the end of the shaft and use it as a
denotes top dead centre (TDC) for engine
drive pulley nut until the line next to the T mark handle to draw the shaft out — hold the
timing with the F mark that denotes the firing
(ignition timing) point. on the alternator rotor aligns with the static rocker arm and remove it when free (see
timing mark, which is a notch in the inspection illustration). Slide the rocker back onto its
Removal hole rim, and the index line on the camshaft shaft to prevent related parts getting mixed
1 On SH models remove the body cover (see sprocket is parallel and flush with the cylinder
up — both rocker arms are identical and are
Chapter 9). On Dylan and @ models remove therefore interchangeable. If required mark
head top surface, with the number 1 at the
the body cover and floor panel (see Chapter them according to their location so they can
top of the sprocket and the number 2 at the
9). On PS models remove the body cover bottom (see illustrations). If everything else be installed in their original position. The
and belly panel (see Chapter 9). On Pantheon aligns but the 1 is at the bottom and the 2 at shafts are different - the intake side shaft has
models remove the body cover and floor two grooves in it.
the top, rotate the engine anti-clockwise one
panels (see Chapter 9). On S-wing models 9 Place a rag over the cylinder head.
full turn (360°). There should now be some
remove the body cover (see Chapter 9). freeplay in each rocker arm (i.e. they are not Inspection
2 Remove the spark plug (see Chapter 1). contacting the valve stem). 10 Check the bearing on each end of the

& ie.
8.4b ... until the line next to the T mark 8.4c ...and the camshaft sprocket
aligns with the notch (arrowed)... numbers are as shown

8.6 Slip the sprocket off the camshaft and 8.7 Release the circlip (arrowed) and
out of the chain 8.8 Release the circlips (arrowed) then
withdraw the camshaft withdraw the shafts and remove the
rockers as described
 Engine 2¢9

8.10 Check the camshaft bearings 8.11 Measuring the camshaft lobe height 8.12 Inspect the contact surfaces on the
with a micrometer rocker arms and cam lobes for wear and
pitting
camshaft -— they must run smoothly, quietly valves must be replaced with new ones as grease and engine oil). Position the rocker
and freely, and there should be no excessive required. arm in its location in the holder, making sure
play between the inner and outer races, or 13 Check for freeplay between each rocker the adjuster is on the outside, and slide its
between the inner race and the camshaft, or arm and its shaft. The arms should move shaft through, making sure the threaded end
between the outer race and the holder (see freely with a light fit but no appreciable is on the outer end (see illustration 8.8). Fit
illustration). If not, replace the bearings and/ freeplay. Measure the internal diameter of the the shaft circlip, making sure it locates in its
or camshaft and/or holder with new ones as arm bores and the corresponding diameter groove.
required — on some models the camshaft and of the shaft, and calculate the difference 18 Lubricate the camshaft bearings with
bearings are available separately, while on to obtain the clearance (see illustrations). clean engine oil and the camshaft lobes with
others they are only available as an assembly Replace the arms and/or shafts according to molybdenum disulphide oil. Slide the camshaft
— check with your dealer. Refer to Section 10 their measurements if the clearance is greater into the holder with its lobes pointing towards
to remove the holder. than the maximum specified at the beginning the cylinder head and away from the contact
11 Check the camshaft lobes for heat of the Chapter. Check that the fork shaft holes faces on the rocker arms, and aligning the
discoloration (blue appearance), score marks, in the holder are neither worn nor damaged. sprocket bolt holes parallel with the top of the
chipped areas, flat spots and spalling (see 14 Except in cases of oil starvation, the cam cylinder head, and secure it with the circlip,
illustration 8.12). Measure the height of each chain should wear very little. If the chain has using a new one if necessary (see illus-
lobe with a micrometer (see illustration) stretched excessively, which makes it difficult tration 8.7).
and compare the results to the minimum to maintain proper tension, or if it is stiff or the 19 Check that the line next to the T mark on
height listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. links are binding or kinking, replace it with a the alternator rotor aligns with the notch in the
lf damage is noted or wear is excessive, the new one (see Section 9). inspection hole rim (see illustration 8.4b).
camshaft must be replaced with a new one. 15 Check the sprocket for wear and damage, Engage the cam chain sprocket with the
and replace it with a new one if necessary. chain, making sure the crankshaft does not
If the sprocket is worn, the cam chain is rotate, that the front run of the chain between
PINTS Refer to Tools and Workshop
also worn, and so probably is the sprocket the sprockets is tight and that any slack is
Tips in the Reference section
on the crankshaft (see Section 9). If severe in the rear run so it will be taken up by the
for details of how to read a
wear is apparent, the entire engine should be tensioner, that the index line is facing out and
micrometer.
disassembled for inspection. is flush with the cylinder head, i.e. below the
16 Inspect the cam chain guide and tensioner bolt holes, with the number 1 at the top of the
12 Check the rocker arms for heat blades (see Section 9). sprocket and the number 2 at the bottom, and
discoloration (blue appearance), score that the bolt holes align, and fit the sprocket
marks, chipped areas, flat spots and spalling Installation
onto the flange (see illustration 8.6).
where they contact the camshaft lobes (see 17 Working on one rocker shaft at a time, 20 Fit the cam chain sprocket bolts and
illustration). Similarly check the bottom of and remembering that the grooved shaft goes tighten them to the specified torque setting
each clearance adjuster and the top of each in the intake side of the holder, lubricate the (see illustration 8.4c).
valve stem. If damage is noted or wear is shaft and arm with molybdenum disulphide oil 21 Use a piece of wooden dowel or other
excessive, the rocker arms, camshaft and (a 50/50 mixture of molybdenum disulphide suitable tool to press on the back of the cam
chain tensioner blade via the tensioner bore
in the cylinder block to ensure that any slack
in the cam chain is taken up and transferred
to the rear run of the chain. At this point
check that all the timing marks are still in
exact alignment as described in Step 4 (see
illustrations 8.4b and c). Note that it is easy
to be slightly out (one tooth on the sprocket)
without the marks appearing drastically out of
alignment. If the marks are out unscrew the
sprocket’s bolts and slide the sprocket off the
camshaft, then disengage it from the chain.
Move the camshaft and/or crankshaft round
Measure the ID of the bore... 8.13b ... and the OD of the shaft as required, then fit the sprocket back into
8.13a
the chain and onto the camshaft, and check
 2°10 Engine

the marks again. With everything correctly

aligned, tighten the bolts to the specified
torque setting.
Caution: If the marks are not aligned
exactly as described, the valve timing will
be incorrect and the valves may strike the
piston, causing extensive damage to the
engine.
22 Install the cam chain tensioner (see
Section 7).
23 Turn the engine anti-clockwise through
two full turns and check again that all the
timing marks still align (see Step 4) (see
illustrations 8.4a, b and c). Check the valve 9.3a Unscrew the bolts and remove the 9.3b ... then remove the oil seal
clearances and adjust them if necessary (see retainer...
Chapter 1).
7 Unscrew the crankcase oil seal retainer it may be that a sprocket from an earlier model
24 Install the timing inspection cap using a
bolts and remove the retainer (see illus- can be used.
new O-ring, and smear the O-ring and the cap
tration 9.3a).
threads with clean oil and the cap threads with Tensioner and guide blades
8 Unscrew the tensioner blade pivot bolt.
grease (see illustration 8.2). 12 Check the sliding surface and edges of
Draw the blade out of the top of the cylinder
25 Install the valve cover (see Section 6). the blades for excessive wear, deep grooves,
block (see illustration). Discard the pivot bolt
Install the spark plug and transmission case cracking and other obvious damage, and
O-ring - a new one must be used.
filter housing (see Chapter 1). replace them with new ones if necessary.
26 Install the body panels (see Chapter 9). Guide blade
9 Remove the cylinder head (see Section 10). Installation
9 Cam chain, blades and 10 Draw the guide blade out of the top of 13 Installation of the cam chain and blades is
sprockets S the cylinder block, noting how it locates (see the reverse of removal. Make sure the bottom
x
“~
illustration). of the guide blade sits in its seat and the
lugs near its top locate in the cut-outs in the
Inspection
cylinder block. Use a new O-ring smeared with
Note: The cam chain and its blades can be
removed with the engine in the frame. Cam chain and sprockets oil on the tensioner blade pivot bolt and tighten
the bolt to the torque setting specified at the
11 Check the chain for binding, kinks and
Removal beginning of the Chapter. Lubricate the new
any obvious damage and replace it with a
crankcase seal lips with oil. Do not forget the
Cam chain new one if necessary. Check the camshaft
and crankshaft sprocket teeth for wear and seal retainer. Refer to Section 8, Step 19-on for
1 Remove the camshaft sprocket (see Section installation of the camshaft sprocket.
8, Steps 1 to 6). damage and replace the cam chain, camshaft
2 Remove the transmission drive pulley (see sprocket and crankshaft sprocket with a new
set if necessary — the drive sprocket on the 10 Cylinder head removal and =&
Chapter 3).
3 Unscrew the crankcase oil seal retainer bolts crankshaft is pressed on, so the crankshaft installation SN
and remove the retainer (see illustration). will have to be taken to a workshop or dealer SS
Prise the oil seal out — discard it as a new one equipped with an hydraulic press to remove ~
must be used (see illustration). it and to fit a new one. When fitting the new Note: The cylinder head can be removed with
4 Draw the cam chain off the crankshaft sprocket make sure that the tip of any one the engine in the frame.
sprocket, noting that it engages with the tooth aligns with the punch mark on the Caution: The engine must be completely
middle set of teeth, and out of the engine (see left-hand end of the crankshaft where present, cool before beginning this procedure or the
illustration). or if not then with the centre of the crank pin, cylinder head may become warped.
according to model. Note that for certain later
Tensioner blade
models the sprocket is not listed as being Removal
5 Remove the cylinder head (see Section 10). available separately from the crankshaft 1 Remove the carburettor or fuel injector/
6 Remove the transmission drive pulley (see assembly, but check with a dealer before throttle body/ECM assembly, according to
Chapter 3). assuming you have to buy a new crankshaft — model (see Chapter 5A or B).
aa

“ea
9.4 Draw the chain out via the hole for the 9.8 Unscrew the pivot bolt and withdraw
oil seal
9.10 Withdraw the blade, noting how it
the blade
locates
 Engine 2¢11

10.5 Undo the smaller bolts on the side 10.8a The dowels (arrowed) could be in 10.8b ... or the head, or one in each
first then undo the main nuts (arrowed) the block ...

2 Remove the exhaust system (see Chapter 9 Secure the cam chain over the front of the been removed from the holder, make sure the
5A or B). block to prevent it dropping into the engine. camshaft is positioned so its lobes face away
3 Drain the cooling system (see Chapter 4). 10 Inspect the cylinder head gasket and from the contact faces on the arms. Make
Detach the thermostat housing from the head the mating surfaces on the cylinder head sure the crankshaft is correctly positioned
(see Chapter 4). and cylinder for signs of leaks, which could (see Section 8, Step 19). If removed fit the
4 Remove the camshaft sprocket (see Section indicate that the head is warped. Refer to dowels over the studs and into the cylinder
8, Steps 1 to 6). Section 11 and check the head mating surface head. Fit the camshaft holder assembly over
5 Unscrew and remove the two bolts on the for warpage. the studs and onto the head, making sure the
side of the head, then unscrew the camshaft 11 Clean all traces of old gasket material from sprocket end of the camshaft is over the cam
holder nuts, slackening them evenly and the cylinder head and cylinder with a suitable chain tunnel, and that the rocker arms locate
a little at a time in a criss-cross sequence, solvent. Take care not to scratch or gouge the correctly onto the valve stem ends, and locate
and remove them and their washers (see soft aluminium. Be careful not to let any of the it onto the dowels, making sure it is correctly
illustration). gasket material fall into the crankcase, the seated on all sides.
6 Lift off the holder complete with the camshaft cylinder bore or the oil or coolant passages. 16 Smear clean engine oil onto the seating
and rockers. Remove the two locating dowels surfaces of the nuts. Fit the nuts with their
from the studs or the underside of the holder if
Installation washers and tighten them evenly and a little
they are loose. 12 Lubricate the cylinder bore with engine at a time in a criss-cross sequence to the
Caution: Make sure the holder lifts up oil. If removed, fit the dowels into the cylinder torque setting specified at the beginning of
squarely and evenly and does not stick on block (see illustration 10.8a). Make sure the the Chapter (see illustration).
a dowel. cam chain guide blade is correctly seated (see 17 Fit the two bolts into the side of the head
7 Lift the cylinder head off carefully, feeding Section 9). and tighten them (see illustration 10.5).
the cam chain down through the tunnel in the 13 Ensure both cylinder head and cylinder 18 Install the camshaft sprocket (see Section
head. If the head is stuck, tap around the joint block mating surfaces are clean. Lay the new 8, Steps 19-on).
head gasket over the studs, the cam chain 19 Install the remaining components in the
face between the head and the cylinder with a
and blades and onto the block, locating it reverse order of removal, referring to the
soft-faced mallet to free it. Do not try to lever
over the dowels and making sure all the holes relevant Chapters and Sections as directed.
the head off as this may damage the sealing
surfaces. Note: Avoid lifting the cylinder off are correctly aligned (see illustration). Never
the crankcase when the head is removed, reuse the old gasket. 11 Cylinder head and valve wy
14 Carefully fit the cylinder head over the overhaul SN
x
otherwise a new cylinder base gasket will have
to be fitted (see Section 12). studs and the cam chain guide blade and onto
8 Remove the old cylinder head gasket and the block, feeding the cam chain up through
discard it as a new one must be fitted on the tunnel as you do, and making sure it 4 Because of the complex nature of this job
reassembly (see illustration 10.13). Remove locates correctly onto the dowels. Secure the and the special tools and equipment required,
the dowels from the cylinder block or the chain in place with a piece of wire to prevent it most owners leave servicing of the valves,
underside of the cylinder head if they are from falling in. valve seats and valve guides to a professional.
loose (see illustrations). 15 If the camshaft and rocker arms have not However, you can make an initial assessment
of whether the valves are seating correctly,
and therefore sealing, by pouring a small
amount of solvent into each of the valve ports.
If the solvent leaks past any valve into the
combustion chamber area the valve is not
seating correctly and sealing.
2 With the correct tools (a valve spring
compressor is essential — make sure it is
suitable for motorcycle work), you can also
remove the valves and associated components
from the cylinder head, clean them and check
them for wear to assess the extent of the work
eA needed, and, unless seat cutting or guide
40.13 Locate the new gasket over the 10.16 Tighten the nuts as described to the replacement is required, grind in the valves
dowels specified torque and reassemble them in the head.
2°12 Engine

11.6a Compressing the valve springs 11.6b Make sure the compressor locates
using a valve spring compressor correctly both on the top of the spring
retainer...

H28664

11.5 Valve components

1 Collets 4 Spring seat
2 Spring retainer 5 Valve stem seal
3 Valve spring 6 Valve 11.6c ...and on the bottom of the valve 11.7a Remove the collets...

3 A dealer service department or specialist returned to their original locations without spacer between them. Do not compress
can replace the guides and re-cut the valve getting mixed up (see illustration). Labelled the springs any more than is absolutely
seats. plastic bags or a plastic container with two necessary.
4 After the valve service has been performed, compartments are ideal. 7 Remove the collets, using a magnet or a
be sure to clean the head very thoroughly 6 Compress the valve spring on the first valve screwdriver with a dab of grease on it (see
before installation to remove any metal with a spring compressor, making sure it is illustration). Carefully release the valve spring
particles or abrasive grit that may still be correctly located onto each end of the valve compressor and remove the spring retainer,
present from the valve service operations. Use assembly (see illustration). On the top of the noting which way up it fits, the spring and the
compressed air, if available, to blow out all the valve the adaptor needs to be about the same valve (see illustrations). If the valve binds in
holes and passages. size as the spring retainer — if it is too small it the guide and won’t pull through, push it back
will be difficult to remove and install the collets into the head and deburr the area around the
(see illustration). On the underside of the
Disassembly collet groove with a very fine file or whetstone
head make sure the plate on the compressor
5 Before proceeding, arrange to label and (see illustration).
only contacts the valve and not the soft
store the valves along with their related aluminium of the head (see illustration)
components in such a way that they can be - if the plate is too big for the valve, use a

" y o, ~

1.28098

11.7b ...the spring retainer and the

. and the valve 11.7d_ If the valve stem (2) won’t pull
spring...
through the guide, deburr the area above
the collet groove (1)
 Engine 2°13

%, i , ;

j
11.8a Pull the seal off the valve stem... 11.8b ... then remove the spring seat 11.15 Measure the valve seat width

8 Pull the valve stem seal off the top of the for warpage. Take six measurements, one replacement. If the valve guide is within
valve guide with pliers and discard it (the old along each side and two diagonally across. If specifications, but is worn unevenly, it should
seals should never be reused), then remove the head is warped beyond the limit specified be replaced with a new one. Repeat for the
the spring seat noting which way up it fits (see at the beginning of this Chapter, consult a other valve.
illustrations). Honda dealer or take it to a specialist repair 17 Carefully inspect each valve face, stem
9 Repeat the procedure for the other valve. shop for an opinion, though be prepared to and collet groove area for cracks, pits and
Remember to keep the parts for each valve have to buy a new one. burned spots.
together so they can be reinstalled in the 15 Examine the valve seats in the combustion 18 Rotate the valve and check for any obvious
same location. chamber. If they are pitted, cracked or burned, indication that it is bent, in which case it must
10 Clean the cylinder head with solvent and the head will require work beyond the scope be replaced with a new one. Check the end
dry it thoroughly. Compressed air will speed of the home mechanic. Measure the valve of the stem for pitting and excessive wear.
the drying process-and ensure that all holes seat width and compare it to this Chapter’s The presence of any of the above conditions
and recessed areas are clean. Note: Do not Specifications (see illustration). If it exceeds indicates the need for valve servicing.
use a wire brush mounted in a drill motor to the service limit, or if it varies around its 19 Check the end of each valve spring
clean the combustion chambers as the head circumference, overhaul is required. for wear and pitting. Measure the spring
material is soft and may be scratched or free lengths and compare them to the
16 Working on one valve and guide at a
eroded away by the wire brush. specifications (see illustration). If any spring
time, measure the valve stem diameter (see
11 Clean the valve springs, collets, retainers is shorter than specified it has sagged and
illustration). Clean the valve’s guide using a
and spring seats with solvent and dry them must be replaced with a new one. Also place
guide reamer to remove any carbon build-up
thoroughly. Do the parts from one valve at a the spring upright on a flat surface and check
— insert the reamer from the underside of
time so that no mixing of parts between valves it for bend by placing a ruler against it, or
the head and turn it clockwise only. Now
occurs. alternatively lay it against a set square. If the
measure the inside diameter of the guide (at
12 Scrape off any deposits that may have bend in any spring is excessive, it must be
both ends and in the centre of the guide) with replaced with a new one.
formed on the valve, then use a motorised
a small bore gauge, then measure the gauge 20 Check the spring seats, retainers and
wire brush to remove deposits from the valve
with a micrometer (see illustration). Measure collets for obvious wear and cracks. Any
heads and stems. Again, make sure the valves
the guide at the ends and at the centre to questionable parts should not be reused, as
do not get mixed up.
determine if they are worn in a bell-mouth extensive damage will occur in the event of
Inspection pattern (more wear at the ends). Subtract the failure during engine operation.
13 Inspect the head very carefully for cracks stem diameter from the valve guide diameter 21 If the inspection indicates that no overhaul
and other damage. If cracks are found, a new to obtain the valve stem-to-guide clearance. work is required, the valve components can
head is required. If the stem-to-guide clearance is greater be reinstalled in the head.
14 Using a precision straight-edge and a than listed in this Chapter’s Specifications,
feeler gauge set to the warpage limit listed replace whichever component is beyond Reassembly
in the specifications at the beginning of the its specification limits with a new one — 22 Unless a valve service has been
Chapter, check the head gasket mating surface take the head to a specialist for valve guide performed, before installing the valves in the

11.16a Measure the valve stem diameter 11.16b Measure the valve guide with a 11.19 Measure the free length of the valve
with a micrometer small bore gauge, then measure the bore springs and check them for bend
gauge with a micrometer
2°14 Engine

11.24 Make sure the contact areas are as 11.28 Fit the spring seat using a rod to 11.29a Fita new piersstem pay
described guide it if necessary

head they should be ground in (lapped) to and unbroken around the entire circumference facing down so that it fits into the top of the
ensure a positive seal between the valves and (see illustration and 11.15). springs (see illustration 11.7b).
seats. This procedure requires coarse and fine 25 Carefully remove the valve and wipe off 31 Apply a small amount of grease to the
valve grinding compound and a valve grinding all traces of grinding compound, making sure inside of the collets to help hold them in place.
tool (either hand-held or drill driven — note none gets in the guide. Use solvent to clean Compress the valve springs with a spring
that some drill-driven tools specify using only the valve and wipe the seat area thoroughly compressor, making sure it is correctly located
a fine grinding compound). If a grinding tool with a solvent soaked cloth. onto each end of the valve assembly (see Step
is not available, a piece of rubber or plastic 26 Repeat the procedure with fine valve 6) (see illustrations 11.6a, 11.6b and 11.6c).
hose can be slipped over the valve stem (after grinding compound, then use solvent to clean Do not compress the springs any more than is
the valve has been installed in the guide) and the valve and flush the guide, and wipe the necessary to slip the collets into place. Locate
used to turn the valve. seat area thoroughly with a solvent soaked each collet in turn into the groove in the valve
23 Apply a small amount of coarse grinding cloth. Repeat the entire procedure for the stem using a screwdriver with a dab of grease
compound to the valve face. Smear some other valve. On completion thoroughly clean on it (see illustration). Carefully release the
molybdenum disulphide oil (a 50/50 mixture the entire head again, then blow through all compressor, making sure the collets seat and
of molybdenum disulphide grease and engine passages with compressed air. Make sure all lock in the retaining groove.
oil) to the valve stem, then slip the valve into traces of the grinding compound have been 32 Repeat the procedure for the other valve.
the guide (see illustration 11.7c). Note: removed before assembling the head. 33 Support the cylinder head on blocks so
Make sure each valve is installed in its correct 27 Coat the valve stem with molybdenum the valves can’t contact the work surface, then
guide and be careful not to get any grinding disulphide oil (a 50/50 mixture of molybdenum tap the end of each valve stem lightly using a
compound on the valve stem. disulphide grease and engine oil), then fit it copper or plastic hammer to seat the collets in
24 Attach the grinding tool to the valve and into its guide (see illustration 11.7c). Check their grooves (see illustration).
rotate the too! between the palms of your that the valve moves up-and-down freely.
hands. Use a back-and-forth motion (as though 28 Working on one valve at a time, lay the Check for proper sealing
rubbing your hands together) rather than a spring seat in place in the cylinder head with its of the valves by pouring a
circular motion (i.e. so that the valve rotates shouldered side facing up (see illustration). small amount of solvent
alternately clockwise and anti-clockwise rather 29 Fit a new valve stem seal over the valve into each of the valve ports.
than in one direction only). If a motorised tool stem and onto the guide, using finger pressure, If the solvent leaks past any valve into
is being used, take note of the correct drive a stem seal fitting tool or an appropriate size the combustion chamber the vaive
speed for it — if your drill runs too fast and is deep socket, to push the seal squarely onto grinding operation on that valve should
not variable, use a hand tool instead. Lift the the end of the valve guide until it is felt to clip be repeated.
valve off the seat and turn it at regular intervals into place (see illustrations).
to distribute the grinding compound properly. 30 Next fit the spring, with its closer-wound 34 After the cylinder head and camshaft holder
Continue the grinding procedure until the valve coils facing down into the cylinder head, then have been installed, check the valve clearances
face and seat contact area is of uniform width, fit the spring retainer, with its shouldered side and adjust as required (see Chapter 1).

11.29b ... and press it squarely into place 11.31 Locate each collet in its groove in 11.33 Seat the collets as described
the top of the valve stem
 Engine 2°15

2 Cylinder block

Why
Note: The cylinder block can be removed with
the engine in the frame.

Removal
1 Remove the cylinder head (see Section 10).
2 Draw the cam chain guide blade out of the
top of the block, noting how it locates (see
illustration 9.10).
3 Slacken the clamp securing the coolant 12.3 Slacken the clamp (arrowed) and 12.4 Carefully lift the block up off the
hose to the block and detach it, being detach the hose crankcase
prepared with a rag to catch any residual
coolant (see illustration). the beginning of the Chapter. If the cylinder 15 Remove the rags from around the piston
4 Hold the cam chain up and pull the cylinder is worn, oval or tapered beyond the service and the cam chain tunnel, taking care not to
block up off the crankcase, supporting the limit it can be re-bored — oversize (+0.25 and let the connecting rod fall against the rim of
piston so the connecting rod does not knock +0.5) piston and ring sets are available. Note the crankcase, and lay the new base gasket in
against the engine, then pass the cam chain that the person carrying out the re-bore must place, locating it over the dowels. The gasket
down through the tunnel (see illustration). be aware of the piston-to-bore clearance (see can only fit one way, so if all the holes do not
Do not let the chain fall into the engine — lay Specifications). line up properly it is the wrong way round.
it over the front and secure it with a piece of 11 If the precision measuring tools are not Never re-use the old gasket.
wire. If the block is stuck, tap around the joint available, take the cylinder block to a Honda 16 Ensure the piston ring end gaps are
faces with a soft-faced mallet. Do not attempt dealer or specialist motorcycle repair shop for positioned correctly before fitting the cylinder
to free it by inserting a screwdriver between assessment and advice. block (see Section 14) (see illustration 14.11).
the block and crankcase mating surfaces —- If possible, have an assistant to support the
you'll damage them. cylinder block while the piston rings are fed
5 Remove the base gasket and discard it as Installation into the bore.
a new one must be used. If they are loose, 12 Check that the mating surfaces of the 17 Rotate the crankshaft so that the piston
remove the dowels from the crankcase or the cylinder block and crankcase are free from oil is at its highest point (top dead centre). It is
underside of the cylinder block. or pieces of old gasket. useful to place a support under the piston so
6 Stuff some clean rag into the cam chain 13 Check that all the studs are tight in that it remains at TDC while the block is fitted,
tunnel and around the connecting rod to the crankcase. If any are loose, or need to otherwise the downward pressure will turn the
protect and support it and the piston and to be replaced with new ones, remove them, crankshaft and the piston will drop. Lubricate
prevent anything falling into the engine. noting that those on the left-hand side of the the cylinder bore, piston and piston rings with
7 Clean all traces of old gasket material from crankcase are longer than those on the right. clean engine oil.
the cylinder block and crankcase. If a scraper Clean their threads and smear them with clean 18 Carefully lower the block over the studs
is used, take care not to scratch or gouge the engine oil. Fit them into the crankcase and and onto the piston until the crown fits into
soft aluminium. Be careful not to let any of the tighten them using a stud tool, or by threading the bore, holding the underside of the piston
gasket material fall into the engine. two of the camshaft holder nuts onto the top if you are not using a support to prevent it
of the stud and tightening them together so dropping, and making sure it enters the bore
Inspection
they are locked on the stud, then tighten the squarely and does not get cocked sideways
Note: Do not attempt to separate the cylinder stud by turning the upper of the two nuts. The (see illustration 12.4). Feed the cam chain
liner from the cylinder block. distance between the top of each stud and up the tunnel and slip a piece of wire through
8 Check the cylinder walls carefully for the crankcase surface should be 175.5 mm on it to prevent it falling back into the engine.
scratches and score marks. the right-hand side and 181.5 mm on the left. Keep the chain taut to prevent it becoming
9 Using a precision straight-edge and a feeler 14 If removed, fit the dowels over the studs disengaged from the crankshaft sprocket.
gauge set to the warpage limit listed in the and into the crankcase and push them firmly 19 Carefully compress and feed each ring
specifications at the beginning of the Chapter, home. into the bore as the cylinder is lowered (see
check the block top surface for warpage. Take
six measurements, one along each side and
two diagonally across. If the block is warped
beyond the limit specified at the beginning of
this Chapter, consult a Honda dealer or take
it to a specialist repair shop for an opinion,
though be prepared to have to buy a new
one.
10 Using a telescoping bore gauge and a
micrometer, check the dimensions of the
cylinder to assess the amount of wear, taper
and ovality. Measure near the top (but below
the level of the top piston ring at TDC), centre 06341

and bottom (but above the level of the oil

ring at BDC) of the bore, both parallel to and
12.10a Measure the cylinder bore in the 12.10b ...using a telescoping gauge, then
across the crankshaft axis (see illustrations).
directions shown... measure the gauge with a micrometer
Compare the results to the specifications at
2°16 Engine

if \

12.19 Carefully feed each ring into the 13.3a Prise out the circlip using a suitable 13.3b ... then push out the pin and
bore as you lower the block tool in the notch... separate the piston from the rod

illustration). If necessary, use a soft mallet to 3 Carefully prise out the circlip on one side of of fine emery cloth can be used once most of
gently tap the cylinder down, but do not use the piston using needle-nose pliers or a small the deposits have been scraped away. Do not,
force if it appears to be stuck as the piston flat-bladed screwdriver inserted into the notch under any circumstances, use a wire brush
and/or rings will be damaged. (see illustration). Push the piston pin out from the mounted in a drill motor to remove deposits
20 When the piston and rings are correctly other side to free the piston from the connecting from the piston; the piston material is soft and
located in the bore, remove the support if used rod (see illustration). Remove the other circlip will be eroded away by the wire brush.
then press the cylinder block down onto the and discard them as new ones must be used. 6 Use a piston ring groove cleaning tool to
base gasket, making sure the dowels locate. remove any carbon deposits from the ring
21 Hold the block down and turn the FPN ac) /f the piston pin is a tight fit grooves. If a tool is not available, a piece

HINT,
crankshaft to check that everything moves as in the piston bosses, heat the broken off an old ring will do the job. Be very
it should. piston using a heat gun - this careful to remove only the carbon deposits.
22 Connect the coolant hose to its union and _ will expand the alloy piston Do not remove any metal and do not nick or
secure it with its clamp. sufficiently to release its grip on the pin. gouge the sides of the ring grooves.
23 Install the cam chain guide blade, making If the piston pin is particularly stubborn, 7 Once the deposits have been removed,
sure the bottom of the blade sits in its seat extract it using a drawbolt tool, but be
clean the piston with solvent and dry them
and the lugs near its top locate in the cut-outs careful to protect the piston’s working
thoroughly. Make sure the oil return holes
in the cylinder block (see illustration 9.10). surfaces.
below the oil ring groove are clear.
24 Install the cylinder head (See Section 10).
4 Using your thumbs or a piston ring removal Inspection
13 Piston and installation tool, carefully remove the 8 Carefully inspect the piston for cracks around
rings from the piston (see illustrations 14.10, the skirt, at the pin bosses and at the ring
14.9, 14.8 and 14.6c, b and a). Do not nick
WH or gouge the piston in the process. Carefully
lands. Normal piston wear appears as even,
vertical wear on the thrust surfaces. If the skirt
note which way up each ring fits and in which
Note: 7o remove the piston the engine must is scored or scuffed, the engine may have been
groove as they must be installed in their
be removed from the frame and the crankcase suffering from overheating and/or abnormal
original positions if being re-used. The upper
halves separated. combustion, which caused excessively high
surface of the top ring should be marked with
Removal operating temperatures. Also check that the
the letter R at one end (according to Honda’s
circlip grooves are not damaged.
1 Remove the cylinder block (see Section 12). manual, though on the engine we stripped
Check that the holes into the crankcase and 9 A hole in the top of the piston, in one
it wasn’t), and the second (middle) ring is
the cam chain tunnel are completely blocked extreme, or burned areas around the edge of
marked RN (see illustration 14.8). The rings
with rag. the piston crown, indicate that pre-ignition or
can also be identified by their differing profiles
2 Note that the piston crown is marked IN if necessary — the top ring has a chamfered knocking under load have occurred. If you find
(though the mark is likely to be invisible until the evidence of any problems the cause must be
top inner edge.
piston is cleaned) and this mark faces the intake corrected or the damage will occur again (see
5 Scrape all traces of carbon from the top of
side of the cylinder (see illustration 13.15). the piston. A hand-held wire brush or a piece Fault Finding in the Reference section).
10 Measure the piston ring-to-groove
clearance by laying each piston ring in its
groove and slipping a feeler gauge in beside
it (see illustration). Make sure you have the
correct ring for the groove (see Step 4). Check
the clearance at three or four locations around
the groove. If the clearance is greater than
specified, replace both the piston and rings as
a Set. If new rings are being used, measure the
clearance using the new rings. If the clearance
is greater than that specified, the piston is
worn and must be replaced with a new one.
11 Check the piston-to-bore clearance by
measuring the bore (see Section 12), then
13.10 Measure the piston ring-to-groove 13.11 Measure the piston diameter with a measure the piston 10 mm up from the bottom
clearance with a feeler gauge micrometer at the specified distance from
of the skirt and at 90° to the piston pin axis
the bottom of the skirt (see illustration). Refer to the Specifications
 Engine 2°17

13.12a Fit the pin into the piston and 13.12b Measure the external diameter of 13.12c ... and the internal diameter of the
check for any freeplay each end of the pin... bore in the piston on each side

13.12d Measure the external diameter of 13.12e ... and the internal diameter of the 13.15 Make sure the IN mark faces the
the middle of the pin... small-end of the connecting rod intake side

at the beginning of the Chapter and Subtract Installation properly seated in their grooves with the open
the piston diameter from the bore diameter to end away from the removal notch.
13 Inspect and install the piston rings (see
obtain the clearance. If it is greater than the Section 14). 17 Install the cylinder block (see Section 12).
specified figure, the piston must be replaced 14 Lubricate the piston pin, the piston pin
with a new one (assuming the bore itself is bore and the connecting rod small-end bore 14 Piston rings
within limits). with molybdenum disulphide oil (a 50/50

HEE
12 Apply clean engine oil to the piston pin, mixture of molybdenum disulphide grease and
insert it into the piston and check for any clean engine oil).
freeplay between the two (see illustration). 15 When fitting the piston onto the connecting
Measure the pin external diameter at each rod make sure the IN mark on the piston crown Inspection
end (see illustration), and the pin bore in faces the intake side (back) of the engine (see
the piston (see illustration). Calculate the 1 It is good practice to replace the piston
illustration).
difference to obtain the piston pin-to-piston rings with new ones when an engine is being
16 Fit a new circlip into one side of the
pin bore clearance. Compare the result to piston (do not reuse old circlips). Line up the overhauled. Before installing the rings, check
the specifications at the beginning of the piston on the connecting rod and insert the the end gaps with the rings fitted in the bore,
Chapter. If the clearance is greater than piston pin from the other side (see illustration as follows.
specified, replace the components that are 13.3b). Secure the pin with the other new 2 Fit the top ring into the bottom of the
worn beyond their specified limits. Repeat the circlip (see illustration). When fitting the bore and square it up with the bore walls by
check between the middle of the pin and the circlips, compress them only just enough to pushing it in with the top of the piston (see
connecting rod small-end (see illustrations). fit them in the piston, and make sure they are illustrations). The ring should be roughly

ae

13.16 Use new circlips and make sure they 14.2a Fit the ring inits bore... 14.2b ...and set it square using the
locate correctly piston...
2°18 Engine

14.2c ... then measure the end gap using 14.6a Fit the oil ring expander in its 14.6b ... then fit the lower side rail...
a feeler gauge groove...

half way up the bore. Slip a feeler gauge piston) first. It is composed of three separate is which — the upper surface of the top ring
between the ends of the ring and compare components, namely the expander and the should be marked with the letter R at one end
the measurement to the specifications at the upper and lower side-rails. Slip the expander (according to Honda’s manual, though on the
beginning of the Chapter (see illustration). into the groove, making sure the ends don’t engine we stripped it wasn’t), and the second
3 If the gap is larger or smaller than specified, overlap, then fit the lower side-rail (see (middle) ring is marked RN (see illustration).
double check to make sure that you have the illustrations). Do not use a piston ring The rings can also be identified by their
correct ring before proceeding; excess end installation tool on the side-rails as they may differing profiles if necessary — the top ring
gap is not critical unless it exceeds the service be damaged. Instead, place one end of the has a chamfered top inner edge.
limit. side-rail into the groove between the expander
9 Install the second (middle) ring next. Make
4 If the service limit is exceeded with new and the ring land. Hold it firmly in place and
sure that the identification letter near the end
rings, check the bore for wear (see Section slide a finger around the piston while pushing
12). If the gap is too small, the ring ends may gap is facing up. Fit the ring into the middle
the rail into the groove. Next, fit the upper
come in contact with each other during engine side-rail in the same manner (see illustration). groove in the piston (see illustration). Do not
operation, which can cause serious damage. Check that the ends of the expander have not expand the ring any more than is necessary to
5 Repeat the procedure for the middle ring overlapped. slide it into place. To avoid breaking the ring,
and the oil control ring side-rails, but not the 7 After the three oil ring components have use a piston ring installation tool.
expander ring. been installed, check to make sure that both 10 Finally, fit the top ring in the same
the upper and lower side-rails can be turned manner into the top groove in the piston (see
Installation illustration). Make sure the identification letter
smoothly in the ring groove.
6 Install the oil control ring (lowest on the 8 Identify which of the top and middle rings (where present) near the end gap is facing up,
or that the chamfered section of the inner
edge is at the top.
11 Once the rings are correctly installed,
check they move freely without snagging,
and stagger their end gaps as shown (see
illustration).

RSS

14.6c ...and the upper side rail on each 14.8 Note the marking on the ring and
side of it make sure it faces up

14.9 Install the middle ring... 14.10 ... and the top ring as described 14.11 Piston ring installation details -
stagger the ring end gaps as shown
 Engine 2°19

15.3 Check the operation of the clutch as 15.4 Withdraw the driven gear 15.5a Check the sprags (A) and the driven
described gear hub (B)

starter clutch, rotating it clockwise as you do diameter of the bush and check that it has not
15 Starter clutch and gears EN (see illustration). worn beyond the service limit specified.

xhi 5 Check the condition of the sprags inside the

clutch body and the corresponding surface
7 Check the teeth of the reduction and idle
gears and the corresponding teeth of the
on the driven gear hub (see illustration). If starter driven gear and starter motor drive
Note: The starter clutch can be removed with they are damaged, marked or flattened at shaft. Replace the gears and/or starter motor
the engine in the frame. If the engine has been any point, they should be replaced with new if worn or chipped teeth are discovered on
removed, ignore the steps which do not apply. ones. Measure the outside diameter of the related gears. Also check the idle gear shaft
hub and check that it has not worn beyond for damage, and check that the gear is not a
Check the service limit specified (see illustration). loose fit on it. Check the reduction gear shaft
1 The operation of the starter clutch can be To remove the starter clutch assembly, hold ends and the bores they run in for wear.
checked while it is in situ. Remove the starter the alternator rotor using a holding strap
motor (see Chapter 10). Check that the idle/ and unscrew the three bolts inside the rotor
Installation
reduction gear is able to rotate freely anti- (see illustration). The clutch outer and
sprag piece come as an assembly on some 8 Lubricate the outside of the starter driven
clockwise as you look at it via the starter motor
models, while on others the sprag assembly gear hub, the bush in its centre, and the clutch
aperture, but locks when rotated clockwise. If
is listed as being available separately — check sprags with clean engine oil, then fit the gear
not, the starter clutch is faulty and should be
with your dealer. Lift the sprag assembly out into the clutch, rotating it clockwise as you do
removed for inspection.
so to spread the sprags and allow the hub to
of the housing, noting which way round it
Removal enter (see illustration 15.4).
fits. Install the new assembly in a reverse
9 Install the alternator rotor (see Chapter 10).
2 Remove the alternator rotor (see Chapter sequence — the sprag assembly fits into the
10) — the starter clutch is bolted to the back lipped side of the housing, and the lipped side
of it. If the starter driven gear does not come faces the alternator rotor. Apply a suitable
away with the rotor slide it off the crankshaft. non-permanent thread locking compound to 16 Oil pump
the bolts and tighten them to the torque setting
Inspection
3 With the alternator face down on a
specified at the beginning of the Chapter.
6 Check the bush in the starter driven gear
Mil
workbench, check that the starter driven gear hub and its bearing surface on the crankshaft Note: This procedure can be carried out with
rotates freely clockwise and locks against (see illustration). If the bush shows signs of the engine in the frame.
the rotor anti-clockwise (see illustration). excessive wear (the holes or groove in the
If it doesn’t, the starter clutch should be surface of the bush for holding the oil will be Removal
dismantled for further investigation. barely visible) replace the driven gear with a 1 Remove the alternator rotor (see Chap-
4 Withdraw the starter driven gear from the new one. You can also measure the internal ter 10).

15.5b Measure the diameter of the hub 15.5c The starter clutch is secured by the 15.6 Check the bush (arrowed) for wear
bolts (arrowed)
2°20 Engine

16.2 Unscrew the bolt (arrowed) and 16.4a Release the circlip... 16.4b ... and remove the sprocket and
remove the cover chain

2 Unscrew the driven sprocket cover bolt and 8 Undo the screw securing the inner cover to the gauge and compare it to the service limit listed
remove the cover (see illustration). pump body and remove cover (see illustrations). in the specifications at the beginning of the
3 Mark the chain and sprocket so they can be Remove the locating pin if it is loose. Chapter (see illustration). Rotate the shaft
fitted the same way round. 9 Note any reference marks on the pump and repeat the measurement at several points.
4 Remove the circlip securing the sprocket, rotors, and make your own if none are visible If any one clearance measured is greater than
then draw the sprocket off the shaft — they must be reassembled the same way the maximum specified at the beginning of the
and remove it along with the chain (see round. Lift the inner and outer rotors out of the Chapter, replace the rotors with new ones.
illustrations). It is best to use a new circlip pump body. 12 Measure the clearance between the outer
on installation, and essential if the original one 10 Clean the pump components with a rotor and the pump body with a feeler gauge
distorts when removed. suitable solvent and dry them with compressed and compare it to the maximum clearance
5 Unscrew the pump retaining bolts, then air, if available. Inspect the pump body, rotors listed in the specifications at the beginning
remove the oil conveyor and withdraw the and shaft for scoring and wear. If any damage, of the Chapter (see illustration). Repeat
pump from the engine (see illustration). If a scoring, uneven or excessive wear is evident, the measurement at several points. If any
gasket is fitted behind the pump, discard it as either replace the pump with a new one, or fit one clearance measured is greater than the
a new one must be fitted. new rotors, according to what is necessary. maximum specified at the beginning of the
11 Fit the inner and outer rotors the Chapter, replace the rotors with new ones.
Inspection correct way round into the pump body (see 13 Lay a straight-edge across the rotors
6 Check the pump body for obvious signs of illustration 16.8b). Fit the shaft through the and the pump body and, using a feeler
damage. Turn the pump shaft by hand and body and into the inner rotor, aligning the gauge, measure the rotor end-float (the gap
check that the pump rotates smoothly. flats. Align an inner rotor tip with an outer rotor between the rotors and the straight-edge (see
7 Withdraw the shaft from the pump. tip then measure the clearance with a feeler illustration). If the clearance measured is
<a Z

16.5 Unscrew the bolts and remove the 16.8a Undo the screw and remove the 16.8b Oil pump components
conveyor and the pump cover

16.11 Measure the inner rotor tip-to-outer 16.12 Measure the outer rotor-to-body 16.13 Measure rotor end-float as shown
rotor clearance as shown clearance as shown
 Engine 2e¢21

16.19 Fit the conveyor, locating the tab in 17.5 Undo the crankcase bolts evenly in a 17.7 Pressing the crankshaft out of the
the slot (arrow) criss-cross sequence left-hand crankcase half

greater than the maximum listed, replace the problems to occur will be worn bearings. A tool (part No. O7SMC-0010001, or a suitable
pump with a new one. worn big-end bearing produces a pronounced equivalent two or three-legged puller, bolted
14 |f the pump is good, reassemble all the knocking noise, most audible when the engine into the right-hand crankcase half and with
components in reverse order, lubricating them is under load, and increasing as engine speed the central bolt bearing onto right-hand end of
with new oil and making sure the rotors are rises. A worn small-end bearing produces the crankshaft, or using a home-made set-up
fitted the same way round and the flats on the a lighter, metallic rattle. Worn main bearings using a metal bar and threaded rod and nuts,
shaft and inner rotor are aligned and correctly produce rumbling noise and vibration. The carefully draw the right-hand crankcase half
engaged. bearings should all be replaced with new ones off the left-hand half, making sure it comes
15 Fit the locating pin if removed, then fit the as part of a complete engine overhaul, or away evenly on all sides. In all cases thread an
cover and tighten the screw (see illustration required due to wear or failure. old nut onto the end of the crankshaft, or use
16.8a). Rotate the pump shaft by hand to 2 To access the crankshaft and the big-end a piece of brass or aluminium plate between
check that the rotors turn smoothly and freely. bearing, the crankcase must be split into two the puller bolt or plate, to protect the end of
16 Inspect the pump drive chain and parts. the shaft.
sprockets for wear or damage, and renew 7 Now press the crankshaft assembly out
them as a set if necessary — the drive sprocket Crankcase separation and of the left-hand crankcase half, using either
on the crankshaft is pressed on, so the crankshaft removal a hydraulic press or the set-up shown (see
crankshaft will have to be taken to a workshop 3 Refer to Section 4 and remove the engine illustration). Again thread an old nut onto the
or dealer equipped with an hydraulic press from the frame. end of the crankshaft or use a piece of brass
to remove it and to fit a new one. Note that 4 Before the crankcase halves can be or aluminium plate to protect the end of the
for certain later models the sprocket is not separated the following components must be shaft, and make sure you have an assistant
listed as being available separately from the removed: ready to prevent the crankshaft dropping
crankshaft assembly, but check with a dealer Cylinder head (Section 10) when it comes free. Note: /f the crankcase
before assuming you have to buy a new Camchain, blades and sprockets (Sec- halves do not separate easily, first ensure all
crankshaft — it may be that a sprocket from an tion 9) fasteners have been removed. Apply steady
earlier model can be used. Cylinder block (Section 12) pressure with the tools described and heat the
Installation Alternator rotor (Chapter 10) bearing housings with a hot air gun. Do not try
Transmission drive pulley (Chapter 3) and separate the halves by levering against the
17 Fit the pump into the crankcase with the
Starter motor (Chapter 10) mating surfaces as they are easily scored and
M mark at the top, and aligning the bolt holes.
Oil pump (Section 16) will not seal correctly afterwards. Do not strike
Fit the oil conveyor, aligning the holes, then fit
5 Tape some rag around the connecting the ends of the crankshaft with a hammer as
the bolts and tighten them (see illustration
rod to prevent it knocking against the damage to the end threads or the shatt itself
16.5). will result.
18 Fit the sprocket into the chain, then loop cases. Unscrew the three crankcase bolts
on the right-hand side evenly, a little at a 8 The main bearings should remain in place in
the chain around the drive sprocket on the
time and in a criss-cross sequence until the crankcase halves during disassembly but
crankshaft and fit the driven sprocket onto the
they are all finger-tight, then remove them could come out with the crankshaft assembly.
pump shaft, aligning the flats (see illustration
(see illustration). Note: Ensure that all the 9 Remove the two dowels from either
16.4b). Fit a new circlip with its chamfered side
crankcase bolts have been removed before crankcase half for safekeeping if they are
facing in, and making sure it locates correctly
attempting to separate the cases. loose.
in the groove (see illustration 16.4a).
19 Fit the sprocket cover, fitting its tab into Crankcase inspection
the slot in the conveyor, and tighten its bolt Make a cardboard template
of the crankcase and punch 10 Remove all traces of old gasket sealant
(see illustration). from the mating surfaces.
20 Install the alternator rotor (see Chapter 10).
a hole for each bolt location.
This will ensure all bolts are 11 Clean the crankcases thoroughly with new
installed correctly on reassembly - this solvent and dry them with compressed air.
17 Crankcases, crankshaft is important as some bolts may be of Blow out all oil passages with compressed air.
assembly and bearings different lengths.
Caution: Be very careful not to nick or

VK) gouge the crankcase mating surfaces or

oil leaks will result. Check both crankcase
6 Support the engine with the left-hand side halves very carefully for cracks and other
Note: Jo separate the crankcase halves, the
facing down and with the crankcase resting damage.
engine must be removed from the frame.
on wooden blocks so the crankshaft is clear 12 Cleanup minor damage to mating surfaces
4 The crankshaft assembly should give many
of the surface. Using either the Honda service with a fine sharpening stone or grindstone.
thousands ofmiles of service. The most likely
2°22 Engine

an integral part of the crankshaft assembly

which comes as a pressed-up unit — individual
components are not available.
Main bearings
23 Check the condition of the bearings (see
Tools and Workshop Tips in the Reference
section) and only remove them if they are
unserviceable. Always renew both main
bearings at the same time, never individually.
When driving the bearings out and in make
sure the crankcase is squarely and adequately
supported under the bearing housing on a
17.17 Measuring connecting rod side 17.18 Checking for up-and-down play in block or blocks of wood or on a flat surface
clearance the big-end bearing such as an MDF or ply board on a workbench,
the idea being not to have the crankcase
Small cracks or holes in aluminium castings 16 Place the crankshaft on V-blocks and resting on anything that can damage a mating
can be repaired with an epoxy resin adhesive check for runout using a dial gauge — on the surface .
as a temporary measure or with one of the low left-hand side set the gauge 100 mm along 24 Toremove the bearings from the crankshaft
temperature welding kits. Permanent repairs the shaft from the outside of the web, and use a bearing puller (see illustration). If the
can only be done by TIG (tungsten inert gas the right set it 50 mm from the web. Compare crankshaft is worn or damaged where the
or heli-arc) welding, and only a specialist in the reading to the maximum specified at the bearings seat a new assembly will have to be
this process is in a position to advise on the beginning of the Chapter. If the runout exceeds fitted.
economy or practical aspect of such a repair. the limit, the crankshaft must be replaced with 25 To remove the bearings from the cases,
If any damage is found that can’t be repaired, a new one. heat the bearing housings with a hot air gun
replace the crankcase halves as a set. 17 Measure the connecting rod side clearance and tap them out from the outside of the case
13 Damaged threads can be economically (the gap between the connecting rod big-end using a bearing driver or suitable socket.
reclaimed using a diamond section wire insert, and the crankshaft web) with a feeler gauge 26 New bearings should be fitted into the
for example of the Heli-Coil type (though there (see illustration). If the clearance is greater crankcases, not onto the crankshaft. Place
are other makes), which are easily fitted after than the service limit listed in this Chapter’s the bearings in the freezer for a while and
drilling and re-tapping the affected thread. Specifications, replace the crankshaft with a heat the crankcases in an oven or using a
14 Studs or bolts that have sheared below new one. hot air gun around the bearing housings just
their bore in the case can usually be removed 18 Hold the crankshaft still and check for before you fit the cold bearings — while the
with extractors, which consist of a tapered, any radial (up and down) play in the big-end temperature differences sometimes allow the
left-hand thread screw of very hard steel. bearing by pushing and pulling the rod against bearings to drop nicely into their housings,
These are tightened into a hole that must the crank (see illustration). If a dial gauge is it is likely you will still need to drive them in
be drilled into the stud or screw, and usually available measure the amount of radial play using a bearing driver or a socket that bears
succeed in dislodging the most stubborn and compare the reading to the maximum only on the outer race. Lubricate the bearing
stud or screw. If a stud or bolt has sheared specified at the beginning of the Chapter. If housings with a smear of clean oil and drive
above its bore line, it can be removed using a the play exceeds the limit, the crankshaft must the bearings in from the inside of the casing
conventional stud extractor which avoids the be replaced with a new one. with the marked side of the bearing facing up,
need for drilling. 19 Have the rod checked for twist and bend until they seat. Once they have seated check
Haynes Hint: Refer to Tools and Workshop by a Honda dealer if you are in doubt about its that the distance from the crankcase mating
Tips for details of installing a thread insert straightness. surface to the bearing inner race surface is
and using screw extractors. 20 Refer to Section 13 and check the 24.54 to 24.62 mm for the right-hand bearing
connecting rod small end and piston pin for and 21.55 to 21.63 mm for the left-hand
Crankshaft and connecting rod wear.
inspection bearing — this can be done quite easily by
21 Refer to Sections 9 and 16 and inspect laying a straight edge across the crankcase
15 Clean the crankshaft and connecting rod the camshaft and oil pump drive sprocket mating surface and using a Vernier gauge.
with solvent. If available, blow them dry with teeth on the crankshaft for damage or wear.
compressed air. 22 The connecting rod and its bearing are Reassembly
27 Draw the crankshaft assembly into the
left-hand crankcase half first, ensuring that the
connecting rod is aligned with the crankcase
mouth, and that the crankshaft enters the
bearing squarely. Lubricate the shaft and
bearing with clean engine oil and tape some
rag around the connecting rod to prevent it
knocking against the cases. Pull the assembly
into place either with the service tools (part
Nos. 07965-VM00100 and 07965-VM00200)
or using the set-up shown (see illustration).
Pull the crankshaft fully into the bearing until
it seats. Heating the bearing and cooling the
crankshaft will ease installation.
17.24 Using a puller to draw a bearing off 28 Wipe the mating surfaces of both crankcase
17.27 Drawing the crankshaft into the
the crankshaft halves with a rag soaked in a suitable solvent.
left-hand crankcase
Fit the dowels. Apply a small amount of suitable
 Engine 2°23

firm pressure with the assembly tools used 3 If a lubrication failure is suspected, stop
previously. Note: Do not attempt to pull the the engine immediately and try to find the
crankcase halves together using the crankcase cause. If an engine is run without oil, even
bolts as the casing will crack and be ruined. for a short period of time, severe damage will
31 Clean the threads of the crankcase bolts occur.
and install them finger-tight, then tighten 4 Check carefully that there are no oil or
them evenly a little at a time in a criss-cross coolant leaks and make sure the transmission
sequence to the torque setting specified and controls, especially the brakes,
at the beginning of the Chapter (see illus- function properly before road testing the
tration 17.5). Support the connecting rod and machine.
rotate the crankshaft by hand — if there are any 5 Treat the machine gently for the first
signs of undue stiffness, tight or rough spots, few miles to make sure oil has circulated
or of any other problem, the fault must be throughout the engine and any new parts
17.29 Pressing the right-hand crankcase rectified before proceeding further. installed have started to seat.
onto the crankshaft 32 Install the remaining components in the 6 Even greater care is necessary if a new
reverse order of removal. piston and rings or a new cylinder have been
sealant to the mating surface of the right-hand fitted, and the bike will have to be run in as
case. Lubricate around the connecting rod 18 Initial start-up and running-in when new. This means a restraining hand
big-end and bearing with clean oil. on the throttle until at least 300 miles (500
29 Now fit the right-hand crankcase half. km) have been covered. There’s no point in
Lubricate the shaft and bearing with clean keeping to any set speed limit — the main idea
engine oil. Press the crankcase half onto the 1 Make sure the engine oil and coolant levels is to keep from labouring the engine and to
crankshaft, either with the service tools (part are correct (see Pre-ride checks). Make sure gradually increase performance up to the 300
Nos. 07 YMF-KFGO0300, 07965-VM00100 and there is fuel in the tank. miles (500 km) mark. Experience is the best
07965-VM00200) or using the set-up shown 2 Start the engine and allow it to run ata guide, since it’s easy to tell when an engine is
(see illustration). Press the crankcase on until moderately fast idle until it reaches operating running freely.
it seats. Heating the bearing and cooling the temperature. 7 Upon completion of the road test, and
crankshaft will ease installation. Warning: If the oil pressure warning after the engine has cooled down completely,
30 Check that the crankcase halves are seated A light doesn’t go off, or it comes on recheck the valve clearances (see Chapter 1)
all the way round. If the casings are not correctly while the engine is running, stop and check the engine oil and coolant levels
seated, heat the bearing housings while applying the engine immediately. (see Pre-ride checks).
2°24 Notes
 3e1

Chapter 3
Transmission
Contents Section number Section number
hrenrancianven aulleyewase some sete ct. «cater clic Sense ack a 4=@Dnve pulley andivarlator xysiraterecscrasc
cw iets tateuices snteats Senet 3
ACEC Laer ieee a)iat. sah UM, SPER is wncloie Beck akon GOED OK Sa eae oan ann.«iSMe eReRome lero RECS nein es aetee 6
DVEOOICOVEIEM Sewists Seater: SIN AO ORR ee. Se chenaainnh een 2 ten GENSTAWINTORMATIOMN sx. cay ekevatbierins > Steen ten leomer ctens, ota eer etE 1

Siac
Easy, suitable for
novice with little
S| Fairly easy, suitable
SS | for beginner with
Fairly difficult,
ss
Difficult, suitable
suitable for competent& | for experienced DIY
S| Very difficult,
suitable for expert
NWw
experience | some experience DIY mechanic EN
mechanic N DIY or professional x
Specifications
Variator
Roller diameter
a EIETCSEANC) ene ci ce cLaati SERS oie Stelios caller com re share ere Susgates 19.92 to 20.08 mm
eaOTUICNOUIITITEBeets couse ote cs a PR eee ak GETS 0.» ese eresis aS, , Suckel Memeo 19.5 mm
Sleeve diameter
125 cc engines
STARS ANG Ss, Cc 1 RE es ABS SEO ee Rec ae rie 23.960 to 23.974 mm
Savio ane a. Meee othe Ge UUme nn ORD, > Erne ar ea 23.93 mm
150 cc engines
Seip eleliahersgo so OM de ale- ie ireRaels Cin ORERER MEMS olga ieee) Seen onan ete 23.986 to 24.000 mm
Sepa GME. OS. oat eon. dc cede enero enter npEE Meet 23.956 mm
Bush diameter
125 cc engines
(SAG lish: oe ooh eg ae Sac eee ieee rere ier oe 23.989 to 24.052 mm
SIENNA HR oe era ace: ciicas Wait o's Roam) amale wye-pre wiseMelon 24.09 mm
150 cc engines
SH TTSEO Ice oe ale re caer Oe aD Agony REN Deeg ira CAE eran Oar 24.015 to 24.026 mm
SRTRHI@E ITD cone Bone I eT CeO Telco RCRD PRREICSonar ar cern 24.064 mm

Clutch and driven pulley

Clutch drum inside diameter
POUNCEWal, syle cog Bee Oe tet Deen REG, arBRIERE PONCE ihn aerace CRAIC ge at 125.0 to 125.2 mm
SCOTVIGGMMITMMe che wick: itu Rreld wale site © Faia Prelaynlals nine Wale agedsva» 125.5 mm
Pulley inner face shaft OD
SUETGETCle en’ cicte inca Oh cn geoP ioe Renae ma Perera meg taca Php 33.965 to 33.985 mm
SEATGG MITE eens meee aetna fascretion oAMER EMOM GY a altascel's Je'aila 7 33.94 mm
Pulley outer face bore ID
SE eich oon ole Sam ont Ele One iggy OR RUE an lar CRO ar ae oO 34.000 to 34.025 mm
SSEVACE! IIa tt tee oe oes Seon ciel reas gitscn els » wlaflavale sows 34.06 mm
Spring free length
CUE IAs Seti ceri ead ho" Lie piaIeTNE ce" ret Rewde Memennn OAR 143.3 mm
STIG UIT E RR eRi erat meals LE Me: bitinga SOE a!wear APs agens <o¥Pre 123.0 mm
Clutch shoe lining thickness
IEG ok) rc ee eenee ore Cate cou Oe 0 CIO Renae teh Rom og 4.0 mm
Sretaettcre inn cee ce oy oe CaCO ip ONO a oe eon eae Ae 2.0 mm
3e2 Transmission

Drive belt
Width
Stamcard grtae actin bauer cefetes agence 22.5 mm
21.5 mm

Torque settings
Drive:belt:coverbolts\). «aim seinem
ain vice © 10 Nm
Drive ulleyinuitee © ene Sccesuctene tices ace Ghee aha iehe 59 Nm
Ghutchiciitiimitn Ute kee coer ours oy oer cud = 49 Nm
54 Nm

decreases. The result of the increasing front/ 2 If required remove the air filter housing (see
1 General information decreasing rear pulley as speed builds, and Chapter 5A or B). Unscrew the two bolts and
vice versa as speed reduces, gives a variable remove the transmission filter housing from
%
gear ratio. the cover (see illustration). Remove the
The transmission can be worked on with O-ring and discard it - a new one should be
The transmission is fully automatic. Power is the engine in the frame. used (see illustration).
transmitted from the engine to the rear wheel 3 On all except Pantheon and S-wing models
by belt, via a variable size drive pulley (the 2 Drive belt cover unscrew the rear brake cable guide bolt and
variator), an automatic clutch and a variable displace the cable (see illustration).
driven pulley and finally a reduction gearbox. 4 Undo the transmission cover bolts and
Both the variator and the automatic clutch
work on the principal of centrifugal force. As
WU remove the cover (see illustration) — if it will
not lift away easily, tap it gently around the
the speed of the drive pulley increases the edge with a soft-faced hammer. Remove the
variator squeezes the two sides of the pulley
Removal
gasket -— if it is damaged, discard it and fit a
together which makes the belt climb up the 1 Remove the left-hand lower panel, floor panel new one on reassembly. Note the location of
walls, its effective diameter increasing as it or body cover as required according to model the dowels and remove them for safekeeping
does. As this happens the effective diameter for access to the transmission cover on the if they are loose (see illustration).
of the belt around the driven pulley at the rear left-hand side of the engine (see Chapter 9). 5 Clean any dust or dirt from the inside of the

2.2a Unscrew the bolts and remove the 2.2b ...and the O-ring 2.3 Unscrew the bolt and displace the
cover... cable guide

2.4a Unscrew the bolts (arrowed) and remove the cover

2.4b Remove the dowels (arrowed) if loose
 Transmission 3¢3
—

arrows or mark the belt so that it can be

installed the same way round.
1 Remove the drive belt cover (see Sec-
tion 2).
2 To slacken the drive pulley nut, the pulley
must be held to prevent it turning. Honda
produce a holding tool (Part No. 07725-
0030000) that locates in the holes in the outer
face of the pulley, and similar holding tools are
commercially available from good suppliers.
Alternatively a tool that can be made from two
strips of steel will hold the pulley in a similar
way (see Tool Tip). In all cases make sure the
2.6a Fit a new seal (arrowed) onto each 2.6b Lay the gasket over the dowels tool is securely located (see illustration).
bolt if necessary 3 With the pulley held, unscrew the nut and
casing with a suitable solvent, taking care to
avoid contact with the belt and the drive faces 3 Drive pulley and variator &S remove the washer (see illustration). Slide
the outer half of the drive pulley off the shaft
of the pulleys. Any evidence of oil inside the
casing suggests a worn seal either on the
i
EN
7
(see illustration). Move the drive belt aside,
or of required slip it out of the driven pulley
crankshaft or the gearbox input shaft which and remove it (see illustration). Grip the
must be rectified. Evidence of grease inside Removal variator assembly so that the ramp plate at
the casing suggests worn seals in the clutch Note: /t is not necessary to remove the drive the back is held into the housing, then draw
centre which should also be rectified. belt from the machine during this procedure. the assembly, including the centre sleeve, off
If the belt is removed, note any directional the crankshaft (see illustration).
Installation 4 Withdraw the centre sleeve, then lift out the
6 Installation is the reverse of removal, noting ramp plate, noting how it fits (see illustration
the following: 3.12b).
@ Check the condition of the rubber 5 Lift out the rollers, noting which way round
seals on the bolts and fit new ones if they fit (see illustration 3.12a).
they are damaged or deformed or have 6 Clean all the components using a suitable
deteriorated (see illustration) solvent.
@ /f removed, fit the dowels in the case (see
Inspection
illustration 2.4b)
@ Fit the gasket, using a new one if 7 Inspect the surface of each roller for
necessary, over the dowels (see wear and flat spots. Measure the diameter
illustration) of the rollers and compare the result to the

A holding tool can be made using two

strips of steel bolted together in the
middle, and with a nut and bolt through
each end which locate into the holes, or 3.3a Unscrew the nut and remove the
3.2 Using a holding tool while unscrewing between the fins, on the pulley. washer
the drive pulley nut

3.3c ... then move the belt aside... 3.3d ...and slide off the inner face and
3.3b Slide off the outer face of the
variator assembly as described
pulley...
3e4 Transmission

rollers are dislodged, disassemble the variator

and reposition the rollers correctly.
14 Position the drive belt around the driven
pulley if removed from it, and around the end
of the shaft (see illustration 3.3c). If fitting a
new belt, make sure any directional arrows
point in the direction of normal rotation.
Ensure there is sufficient slack in the belt to
avoid it being trapped when the outer half of
the pulley is installed — if necessary, grasp the
driven pulley and pull it towards the clutch to
compress the spring and press the drive belt
into the pulley to create slack at the front to
3.9 Check the sleeve and bush (arrowed) ease fitting of the drive pulley.
for wear and damage 15 Slide the outer half of the drive pulley onto
the crankshaft (see illustration 3.3b).
16 Lubricate the nut threads and inner
seating face with clean oil. Fit the washer and
tighten the nut finger-tight (see illustration
3.3a). Make sure the outer pulley half butts
against the centre sleeve and is not skewed
by the drive belt.
17 Use the method employed on removal to
prevent the pulley turning and tighten the nut
to the torque setting specified at the beginning
of this Chapter (see illustration 3.2).
18 Ease the drive belt out of the driven pulley
to reduce the slack in the belt.
19 Install the drive belt cover (see Section 2).
3.12a Fit the rollers onto the ramps 3.12b Fit the guides (arrowed) onto the
ramp plate, then fit the plate
4 Clutch and driven pulley
specifications at the beginning of this Chapter 10 Check the condition of the splines in the
(see illustration). Replace the rollers with a
new set if any are worn below the minimum
centre of the outer half of the drive pulley.
Inspect the inner faces of the pulley halves
WHE
diameter. for signs of overheating or blueing, caused by
8 Inspect the surface of the ramps in the the pulley running out of alignment. Fit a new Removal
variator body and the ramp plate for wear or pulley assembly if it is damaged. 1 Remove the drive belt cover (see Sec-
damage (see illustrations 3.12a and b). Also tion 2).
check the splines in the centre of the ramp Installation
2 To slacken the clutch nut it is necessary to
plate and renew the plate if they are worn. 11 Ensure the inner surfaces of both pulley hold the clutch drum and stop it from turning.
Check the slots in the ramp plate guides halves, the sleeve, the rollers and the ramps Honda produce a holding tool (Part No. 07725-
where they fit in the variator body and fit new are clean and oil-free. 0040000) that locates around and grips the
guides if necessary. 12 Fit the rollers onto the ramps, making sure outer rim of the drum, and similar strap-type
9 Inspect the surfaces of the sleeve and the they are fitted in their original positions (unless rotor holding tools are commercially available
bush in the housing for wear — the sleeve new ones are used) (see illustration). Check from good suppliers.
should be a good sliding fit in the bush with that the ramp guides are correctly fitted on the 3 With the drum securely held, unscrew the
no excessive freeplay between them (see ramp plate, then fit the plate (see illustration). nut, then remove the washer (see illustration).
illustration). Measure the external diameter Insert the centre sleeve. Remove the clutch drum (see illustration).
of the sleeve and the internal diameter of the 13 Grip the variator so that the ramp plate is 4 Draw the clutch and driven pulley assembly
bush — if either component is worn beyond the held into the housing, then slide the assembly off the gearbox input shaft (see illustration).
specified service limit replace it with a new all the way onto the crankshaft (see illustration Disengage the drive belt from the pulley. Note:
one. 3.3d). Note: /f the ramp plate moves and the If the belt is removed from the machine, note

ay.

4.3a Counter-hold the clutch drum and 4.3b remove the drum 4.4 Draw the assembly off the shaft
unscrew the nut
 Transmission 3e5

ae
4.5a Loosen the clutch assembly nut... 4.5b ... then press down to compress the 4.6 Relax the spring and remove the
clutch spring and unscrew the nut fully clutch...

any directional arrows or mark the belt so that 7 Remove the spring collar, the spring, the O-rings should be fitted on reassembly,
it can be installed the same way round. spring seat and the washer (see illustrations). and new seals must be fitted if there is any
5 To disassemble the clutch and pulley 8 Lift the centre sleeve off the boss, then pull evidence of grease having worked its way
assembly, it is necessary first to hold it using out the guide pins, noting how they fit, and past them and onto the shaft on the inner half
a holding too! to initially slacken the nut, then separate the pulley halves (see illustrations). of the pulley (see illustrations).
to compress and hold the clutch spring while Note the location of the seals and the O-rings 9 Clean all the components with a suitable
the nut is undone and removed. Lay the clutch in the boss (see illustration 4.17) - new solvent.
on a flat surface, fit a holding tool (see Section
3, Step 2) in the holes in the backplate and
loosen the nut (see illustration). Now have
an assistant press down on the clutch to
compress the clutch spring while the nut is
finally unscrewed by hand and removed (see
illustration).
Warning: The clutch assembly is
under pressure from the centre
spring - take care to maintain
downwards pressure on the backplate to
avoid damage or injury.
6 Carefully release the downward pressure
on the clutch, allowing the spring to relax, and
remove the clutch (see illustration).

4.8b ...and the guide pins...

ieee cen

4.8c ... then separate the pulley halves 4.8d

—
Remove the old O-rings and discard 4.8e ...and if necessary lever the seals
them... out
3°6 Transmission

ie

4.10 Measure the diameter of the clutch 4.11a Measure the thickness of the friction 4.11b Remove the E-clips . .
drum material

Vicker es Eee Eiht

4.11c ... then lift off the back plate... 4.11d ...and remove the shoes and 4.11e Rubber damper located in shoe
springs as described cut-out (arrow)

Inspection Measure the internal diameter of the drum 11 Check the amount of friction material
10 Check the inner surface of the clutch at several points to determine if it is worn or remaining on the clutch shoes and compare
drum for damage and scoring and inspect the out-of-round (see illustration). If the drum is the results with the specifications (see
splines in the centre — the clutch drum should out-of-round, or if the results are outside the illustration). Inspect the shoe springs for
be a firm fit on the gearbox input shaft, with specifications listed at the beginning of this wear and stretching. Ensure that the shoes
no backlash between the drum and the shaft. Chapter, replace it with a new one. are not seized on their pivot pins and that the
retaining E-clips are secure in the grooves in
the ends of the pins. To fit new shoes, release
the three E-clips and remove the back plate
(see illustrations). Evenly lever the shoes up
off the pins until they can be removed, then
separate them and remove the springs (see
illustration). Check the condition of the rubber
dampers and replace them with new ones if
damaged, deformed or deteriorated — they
will be either in the cut-out in each shoe or on
the pegs on the drive plate (see illustration).
Fit the rubber dampers onto the pegs on the
drive plate (see illustration). Fit each shoe
onto its pin, making sure it is the correct way

SS

4.11h ... then locate the cut-out over the 4.11i Fit the springs... 4.11j ... using a cable tie or similar to
damper
stretch them into place
 Transmission 3¢7

round, then pivot it inwards so the cut-out on

the underside locates over the rubber damper
(see illustration). Fit the springs, making sure
each end locates correctly in its hole - use a
cable-tie as shown to stretch the springs into
their holes, then cut the ties to remove them
(see illustrations). Fit the back plate, tapping
it down over the pins until the grooves are
exposed, then fit the E-clips into the grooves
(see illustrations).
12 Inspect the inner faces of the driven pulley
for signs of overheating or blueing, caused
by the pulley running out of alignment. If the
pulley has run out of alignment, first check 4.11k Make sure the back plate is
the condition of the bearings in the hub of the correctly seated...
pulley inner half (see Step 14), then check the
gearbox input shaft for play in the bearings
(see Section 6).
13 Measure the external diameter of the shaft
on the inner half of the pulley and the internal
diameter of the boss on the outer half and
compare the results to the specifications at
the beginning of the Chapter (see illustration).
Replace either or both half with a new one if
they are worn beyond their limits.
14 A needle roller bearing and a sealed ball
bearing are fitted in the hub of the pulley inner
half (see illustration). Inspect the bearing
rollers for flat spots and pitting and check
4.13 Measure the shaft and the boss to 4.14 Check the bearings
that the ball bearing turns smoothly. If either
assess wear
bearing is worn or damaged replace them
both with new ones. First remove the needle Installation dished-side up so the base of the spring seats
bearing using a puller, then remove the circlip in it (see illustrations 4.7c, b and a).
17 Fit new O-rings smeared with grease onto
retaining the ball bearing and drive the bearing 20 Position the clutch assembly over the
the pulley outer half boss, and fit new oil seals
out — refer to the reference section for more spring, then press it down to compress the
if required (see illustration). Lubricate the oil
information on bearing removal and installation spring, ensuring that the flats on the clutch
seal lips with grease. drive plate are aligned with the flats on the end
methods and tools.
15 Inspect the guide pins and their slots 18 Fit the outer half of the pulley onto the of the shaft, and hold it there while an assistant
in the pulley outer boss and replace any inner half (see illustration 4.8c). Make sure threads the nut finger tight onto the shaft (see
components that are worn with new ones (see the rollers are fitted on the guide pins. Apply illustrations 4.6 and 4.5b). Fit the holding tool
illustration 4.8b). grease to the guide pin slots, then fit the guide as on disassembly and tighten the nut to the
16 Check the condition of the spring. Measure pins (see illustration 4.8b). Fit the centre torque setting specified at the beginning of this
its free length and compare the result with the sleeve over the boss with its flanged end Chapter (see illustration 4.5a).
figure in the Specifications (see illustration). facing down (see illustration 4.8a). 21 Lubricate the needle bearing inside
Replace the spring with a new one if it is bent 19 Fit the washer, the spring seat, the spring the pulley inner half with grease (see illus-
or has sagged to less than the service limit. and the collar — the spring seat must be fitted tration 4.14).

= ai # gus =

4.16 Measure the spring free length 4.17 Fit new O-rings (A), and seals (B) if required
3°8 Transmission

&
4.25 Fit the washer then thread the nut on 5.3 Remove the belt from around the driven pulley

22 Ensure the inner surfaces of both pulley 25 Fit the washer and tighten the nut according to the service interval (see Chapter
halves and the inside surface of the clutch finger-tight (see illustration). Using the 1). Note: Oj! or grease inside the casing will
drum are clean and grease-free. method employed on removal to prevent the contaminate the belt and prevent it gripping
23 If the drive pulley has not been removed fit clutch turning tighten the nut to the specified the pulleys. Any evidence of oil inside the
the drive belt around the driven pulley halves torque setting (see illustration 4.3a). casing suggests a worn seal on either the
and ease the belt into the pulley, forcing the 26 Install the drive belt cover (see Section 2). crankshaft or the gearbox input shaft; evidence
halves apart clutch. When there is sufficient of grease suggests worn seals in the clutch
slack in the belt, slide the assembly onto the centre,
5 Drive belt
gearbox input shaft. If the drive pulley has
been removed the belt can be fitted around
Renewal
the driven pulley after fitting it onto the shaft
(see illustration 4.4). Whi2 Follow the procedure in Section 3 to remove
24 Fit the clutch drum, aligning the splines the outer half of the drive pulley. Lift the belt
with those on the shaft (see illustration Inspection off the shaft.
4.3b). 1 The belt should be inspected regularly 3 Remove the belt from around the driven
¥ pulley (see illustration).
4 Fit the new belt, making sure any directional
arrows point in the direction of normal rotation.
Ease the belt into the driven pulley to ensure
there is sufficient slack to avoid the belt being
trapped when the outer half of the drive pulley
is installed.
5 Install the outer half of the drive pulley (see
Section 3).
6 Install the drive belt cover (see Section 2).

6 Gearbox
6.3b ... then draw the cable out

Removal
1 Remove the clutch and driven pulley (see
Section 4) and the rear wheel (see Chapter 8).
2 Drain the gearbox oil (see Chapter 1).
3 On all drum brake models unscrew the
drum brake cable adjustment nut, then draw
the cable out of the arm (see illustrations).
Remove the bush from the arm, and the spring
from between the arm and the Case, noting
how it locates (see illustrations).
4 Undo the bolts securing the gearbox cover
6.3c Remove the bush... and remove the cover — hold the end of the
6.3d ... and the spring
output shaft to keep it in place so the cover
comes away by itself leaving all shafts and
 Transmission 3¢e9

Oo
ae f iw ge
6.4a Unscrew the bolts (arrowed) ... 6.4b ... and remove the cover as
described

gears in place (see illustrations). Remove the

gasket and discard it as a new one will have to
be fitted. Note the location of the dowels and
remove them for safekeeping if they are loose
(see illustration).
5 Remove the thrust washer and outer gear
from the intermediate shaft, then remove the
shaft (see illustrations).
6 Remove the output shaft (see illustration).
7 If required, drive the input shaft from
the transmission casing using a soft-faced
hammer on the shaft end, but note that the
Does:
bearing and oil seal will have to be replaced
with new ones if you do so (see illustration). 6.5a Remove the thrust washer... 6.5b ... the outer gear...
If there are no signs of oil leakage on the
outside of the cover (behind the clutch), and
if the shaft turns smoothly and freely with no pinions and shaft. This could be caused by discard it as a new one must be used (see
signs of freeplay in the bearing or between overheating due to inadequate lubrication. illustration). Drive the input shaft oil seal out
the shaft and the bearing, it is better not to 11 Note which way round the output shaft oil using a socket or driver (see iilustration).
remove it, unless the shaft itself is worn or seal is fitted in the cover, then lever it out and 12 Check that all the bearings turn smoothly
damaged.

Inspection
8 Remove all traces of old gasket from the
casing and cover mating surfaces, taking care
not to nick or gouge the soft aluminium if a
scraper is used. Wash all of the components
in clean solvent and dry them off.
9 Check the pinion teeth for cracking,
chipping, pitting and other obvious wear or
damage. Check the splines on the shafts for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged
components with new ones.
10 Check for signs of scoring or bluing on the

6.7 Drive the input shaft out using a soft 6.11a Lever the output shaft oil seal out of 6.11b ...and drive the input shaft oil seal
hammer the cover... out of the housing
3e10 Transmission

6.12a Check the bearings (arrowed) in the 6.12b ...in the casing... 6.12c ...and on the input shaft
cover...

and freely without excessive play between the must be removed using a puller or a press. bearing. Install a new oil seal as required.
inner and outer races (see illustrations). The The other bearings in the casing and cover The new input shaft bearing can either be
bearings should be a tight fit in the casing; can be removed using an internal expanding pressed onto the shaft, or driven on using a
if a bearing is loose, and the casing is not puller with slide hammer attachment. To ease suitable tube that bears on the inner race of
damaged, use a suitable bearing locking removal of the bearings in the casing and the bearing.
compound to hold it in place. cover heat the area around it using a hot-air 14 Fit new oil seals and lubricate their lips
13 The output shaft bearing in the cover can gun. Install the new bearings into the casing with grease (see illustrations).
be driven out with a bearing driver or suitably and cover using a bearing driver or socket
sized socket. The bearing on the input shaft large enough to contact the outer race of the Installation
15 Fit the input shaft into the casing, then
use a drift located against the outer race of
the bearing and tap around it until the bearing
seats (see illustrations).
16 Fit the output shaft into its bearing in the
casing (see illustration 6.6).
17 Fit the intermediate shaft into its bearing
in the casing (see illustrations 6.5c). Fit the
outer gear and thrust washer onto the shaft
(see illustrations 6.5b and a).
18 If removed, fit the dowels, then locate the
new gasket onto them (see illustration 6.4c).
19 Install the cover, ensuring the shafts
engage fully with their bearings, then tighten
the cover bolts evenly and in a criss-cross
pattern to the torque setting specified at the
beginning of this Chapter (see illustration
6.4b). Ensure that the input and output shafts
turn freely.
20 Install the clutch and driven pulley (see
Section 4) and the rear wheel (see Chapter 8).
21 Fill the gearbox with the specified amount
and type of oil (see Chapter 1).
22 On drum brake models locate the brake
arm spring between the arm and the case,
with the case end in the hole and the arm
end over the point (see illustration 6.3d).
ao Fit the bush into the arm, then fit the cable
6.15a Fit the input shaft into the casing... through the bush and thread the nut on (see
6.15b ... and tap the bearing in until it
illustrations 6.3c, b and a). Refer to Chapter
seats
1 and adjust the brake freeplay.
 het

Chapter 4
Cooling system
Contents Section number Section number
CooClanthOSeSwerpay. cakes iE Seta ata eros Sam SN Garston ata ae 9 Generallinfor mations sci Beis deters tecemesne Memento palate teal eee a 1
Goolanhilevel: checktac views wer. Whee sheds ashok see Pre-ride checks Radiator 35. lene Shak esha sind: Sk Gate nae 6
GOGAMURSSOLVOlae basin eres CERRO cic ia oa MG Sectelehiawe hale ia 8 Temperature gauge and coolant temperature sensor ............ 4
Cooling fan and fan switch or relay .... 0.0.0.0... cece eee 3 Mhermostat and housing yee e/ ak eras sheets «eral ai: agerhart aie 5
Cooling systemichecks 34. oo Miccsre segs ces cas See see Chapter 1 Wat6r PUINID 0s %s.srcca. 8 coer Asai. Ee sree aiecass a eeiee ae ee if
Draining atushing ane inenling! isnt. aoe tGis «ae ise alec RUNG 2

Degrees of difficulty
Easy, suitable for SS Fairly easy, suitable SS Fairly difficult,
x Difficult, suitable SS
w~
Very difficult,
S
novice with little
experience
SS | for beginner with
some experience
NS suitable for competent BY
| DIY mechanic eS for experienced DIY w
mechanic ~w
suitable for expert
DIY or professional XS
“~

Specifications
Coolant
RR XCUT RO SG mre ee me tete ne sere tN cn Sispe evergs euomutgapeey 6h 50% distilled water, 50% corrosion inhibited ethylene glycol
anti-freeze
Coolant capacity
SH models
PATA OO 45 ete el mee ere. Siete ore pram eos uae ie hn feel as 1.15 litres
PRU S-OMM Re eee ore a ante aEyo yalnghian Sys iukaceRe sid b/2)ac 1.35 litres
yy elect onijOCOlSe cece ten ak ctr tnie faith) e a cere ace nec alloca oii 0.95 litres
PAS THN FE SeacieelS ennestalice’ Seeley a RRR EE ree neNe CarUeBe eeESTEne Eine ioe 1.3 litres
Paninean and o-WING MOGEIS 2.6. - is ec a cies eye cine ls: 1.2 litres

Temperature gauge sensor

SH, Dylan, @ and PS models
RecistanceraoUs Orme eer eis vets eee cea s neta ere se bre sapere Parcs ue 47 to 57 ohms
POCIST ANIC ONCE Gm a i ava Ie re obec tate one! aurea istclia) obagai veils 14 to 18 ohms
Pantheon and S-wing models
Se Stet erafe eae SONG, all/ncl eh decal cade temic OR oem romenees 6.8 to 7.4 ohms
ESSEGe TEGO: ee a ect Oe CaCI
| PRON REEPPROLEL eich Cpe wees 0.6 to 0.8 ohms

Thermostat
Opening temperature... 2 ic. e eee eee ce eee teeter eens 80 to 84°C
RU OROIT ie ote se teers Ving ts ess a aes eho eee ae dayne ee 8 a 95°C
Valve lift 4.5mm

Radiator
Cap valve opening pressure. .... 0.6.26. eee eee cette eee ees 16 to 20 psi (1.1 to 1.4 Bar)
Torque settings
Coolant temperature sensor
Carburettor models 10 Nm
Fuel injection models ..... 6.6... eee eee eee ees 23 Nm
eee eeeee ee
Cooling fan switch (carburettor models) .....---..++ee 18 Nm
Water pump impeller... 2.6.66... ee eee eee eee eee 12 Nm
 4e2 Cooling system

2.2a Radiator pressure cap (A) and reservoir cap (B) - SH and PS 2.2b Radiator pressure cap (A) and reservoir cap (B) — Dylan and
models @ models

conditions. The overflow pipe from the system

1 General information is connected to a reservoir into which excess 2 Draining, flushing and
coolant is expelled under pressure. The refilling
discharged coolant automatically returns to
the radiator by the vacuum created when the WHE
The cooling system uses a water and engine cools.
Warning: Allow the engine to cool
anti-freeze coolant mixture to carry away Warning: Do not remove the
completely before performing
excess heat from the engine and maintain A pressure cap from the radiator
this maintenance operation. Also,
as constant a temperature as possible. The when the engine is hot. Scalding don’t allow anti-freeze to come into contact
cylinder is surrounded by a water jacket hot coolant and steam may be
with your skin or the painted surfaces of
from which the heated coolant is circulated blown out under pressure, which could
the motorcycle. Rinse off spills immediately
by thermo-syphonic action in conjunction cause serious injury. When the engine
with plenty of water. Anti-freeze is highly
with a water pump, which is driven by has cooled, place a thick rag, like a towel,
the oil pump. The hot coolant from the toxic if ingested. Never leave anti-freeze
over the pressure cap; slowly rotate the
engine passes via the thermostat to the lying around in an open container or in
cap anti-clockwise to the first stop. This
radiator. The coolant then flows across the puddles on the floor; children and pets are
procedure allows any residual pressure
core of the radiator, then to the water pump attracted by its sweet smell and may drink
to escape. When the steam has stopped
and back to the engine where the cycle is it. Check with local authorities (councils)
escaping, press down on the cap while
repeated. about disposing of anti-freeze. Many
turning it anti-clockwise and remove it.
A thermostat is fitted in the system to prevent communities have collection centres which
Caution: Do not allow anti-freeze to will see that anti-freeze is disposed of
the coolant flowing through the radiator when come in contact with your skin or painted safely. Anti-freeze is also combustible, so
the engine is cold, therefore accelerating the surfaces of the motorcycle. Rinse off any
speed at which the engine reaches normal don’t store it near open flames.
spills immediately with plenty of water.
operating temperature. A temperature sensor Anti-freeze is highly toxic if ingested. Draining
mounted in the thermostat housing transmits Never leave anti-freeze lying around in an 1 Support the scooter on its centrestand on a
information to the temperature gauge or open container or in puddles on the floor; level surface. On SH, Dylan, @ and PS models
warning light (according to model) on the children and pets are attracted by its remove the inner front panel, on Pantheon
instrument panel, and on fuel injected models sweet smell and may drink it. Check with models remove the large maintenance panel
also provides engine temperature information the local authorities about disposing of in the centre cover, on S-wing models remove
to the engine management system. A cooling used anti-freeze. Many communities will the centre cover (see Chapter 9). On @ models
fan fitted to the back of the radiator aids have collection centres which will see that you may want to remove the right-hand lower
cooling in extreme conditions by drawing anti-freeze is disposed of safely. panel for best access to the drain bolt on the
extra air through. The fan motor is controlled Caution: At all times use the specified water pump. On Pantheon and S-wing models
on carburettor models by a thermo-switch type of anti-freeze, and always mix it with peel back the rubber mat on the left-hand
mounted in the right-hand side of the radiator, distilled water in the correct proportion. floor panel and remove the access panel to
or on fuel injection models by a relay that The anti-freeze contains corrosion the reservoir cap.
itself is controlled by the engine management inhibitors which are essential to avoid 2 Remove the pressure cap from the filler neck
system based on the information from the damage to the cooling system. A lack of by turning it anti-clockwise until it reaches a
temperature sensor. these inhibitors could lead to a build-up of stop (see illustrations). If you hear a hissing
The complete cooling system is partially corrosion which would block the coolant sound (indicating there is still pressure in the
sealed and pressurised, the pressure being passages, resulting in overheating and system), wait until it stops. Now press down
controlled by a valve contained in the severe engine damage. Distilled water on the cap and continue turning the cap until
spring-loaded radiator cap. By pressurising must be used as opposed to tap water to it can be removed. Also remove the coolant
the coolant the boiling point is raised, avoid a build-up of scale which would also reservoir cap.
preventing premature boiling in adverse block the passages. 3 Position a suitable container beneath the
 Cooling system 43

2.2c Radiator pressure cap... 2.2d . . .and reservoir cap - Pantheon and 2.3 Unscrew the bolt (arrowed) and drain
S-wing models the coolant

water pump on the right-hand side of the in the system. Once the hissing stops, push 17 Check the coolant level in the reservoir
engine. Unscrew the drain bolt and allow the down on the cap and remove it completely. and top up if necessary.
coolant to completely drain from the system 10 Drain the system once again. 18 Check the system for leaks. Install the
(see illustrations). If required retain the old 11 Fill the system with clean water, then fit body panels (see Chapter 9).
sealing washer for use during flushing. the radiator cap and repeat the procedure. 19 Do not dispose of the old coolant by
4 Either remove and drain the reservoir, or pouring it down the drain. Instead pour it
draw the coolant out using a siphon pump or Refilling into a heavy plastic container, cap it tightly
syringe (See Section 8). 12 Install the drain bolt using a new sealing and take it into an authorised disposal site or
washer and tighten it. service station - see at the beginning of this
Flushing 13 Using a suitable funnel inserted in the Section.
5 Flush the system with clean tap water by filler neck, fill the system to the base of the
inserting a hose in the filler neck. Allow the neck with the proper coolant mixture (see this 3 Cooling fan and fan switch
water to run through the system until it is Chapter’s Specifications) (see illustration). or relay
clear and flows out cleanly. If the radiator is Note: Pour the coolant in slowly to minimise
extremely corroded, remove it (see Section 6) the amount of air entering the system. Fill WH
and have it cleaned by a specialist. Also flush the reservoir to the UPPER level line (see
the reservoir. illustration). Carefully shake the scooter to Cooling fan
6 Clean the drain hole in the water pump dislodge any trapped air.
then install the drain bolt using the old sealing 14 Start the engine and allow it to idle for 2 Check
washer. to 3 minutes. Flick the throttle twistgrip part 1 If the engine is overheating and the cooling
7 Using a suitable funnel inserted in the open 3 or 4 times, so that the engine speed fan isn’t coming on, first check the fan fuse
filler neck, fill the system to the base of the rises to approximately 4000 to 5000 rpm, then (see Chapter 10). If the fuse is good, on
neck with clean water mixed with a flushing stop the engine. Any air trapped in the system carburettor models check the switch and
compound (see illustration 2.13a). Make should bleed back to the filler neck. on fuel injection models check the relay, as
sure the flushing compound is compatible 15 If necessary, top up the coolant level to described below.
with aluminium components, and follow the the base of the filler neck, then fit the pressure 2 To test the cooling fan motor, on SH and PS
manufacturer’s instructions carefully. Fit the cap. Also top up the coolant reservoir to the models remove the front panel, on all other
radiator cap and reservoir cap. UPPER level line if necessary. models remove the floor panel (see Chap-
8 Start the engine and allow it to reach normal 16 Start the engine and allow it to reach ter 9). Trace the wiring from the fan motor and
operating temperature. Let it run for about ten normal operating temperature, then shut it off. disconnect it at the connector. On carburettor
minutes. Let the engine cool then remove the pressure models also disconnect the wiring connector
9 Stop the engine. Let it cool for a while, cap. Check that the coolant level is still up to from the fan switch (see illustration). Using
then cover the pressure cap with a heavy rag the base of the filler neck. If it’s low, add the a 12 volt battery and two jumper wires with
and turn it anti-clockwise to the first stop, specified mixture until it reaches the base of suitable connectors, connect the battery
releasing any pressure that may be present the filler neck. Refit the cap. positive (+) lead to the blue wire terminal on

2.13a Fill the system with coolant... 2.13b ... then fill the reservoir to the 3.2 Fan switch wiring connector (arrowed
UPPER line - Dylan and @ models
 4e4 Cooling system

ac
4 ¢
F x y

7 " |

iB ou 4 \ i
: : ‘
ee %
€
inst. peace # abate .

3. 5a Cooling fan bolts (arrowed, bottom 3.5b Cooling fan bolts (arrowed) - Dylan 3.5¢ Cooling fan bolts (arrowed) —
one hidden) — SH and PS models and @ models Pantheon and S-wing models

the fan side of the motor wiring connector, and fuse (see Chapter 10). If the fuse is blown, of reading temperatures up to 130°C in the
the battery negative (-) lead to the fan switch check the fan circuit for a short to earth (refer coolant so that its bulb is close to the sensor.
wire terminal on carburettor models, and to to electrical system fault finding and the wiring Note: None of the components should be
the green wire terminal in the connector on diagrams in Chapter 10). allowed to directly touch the container.
fuel injection models. Once connected the fan 8 If the fuse is good, on SH models remove Warning: This must be done
should operate. If it does not, and the wiring the front panel, on Dylan and @ models very carefully to avoid the risk of
and connectors are all good, then the fan remove the floor panel (see Chapter 9). personal injury.
motor is faulty —- replace the fan assembly with Disconnect the fan switch wiring connector 11 Begin to heat the coolant, stirring it gently.
anew one. (see illustration 3.2). Initially there should be no continuity, showing
Replacement 9 With the ignition ON ground the terminal switch is open or off. When the temperature
Warning: The engine must be against the radiator body. The fan should reaches around 100°C, the switch should
completely cool before carrying come on - if it does the switch is faulty. If close (turn on) and there should be continuity
out this procedure. it doesn’t check the wire from the switch on the meter. Keep heating to a few degrees
3 On SH and PS models remove the front back to the fusebox, via the fan motor, for above 100, then turn off the heat. As the
panel, on all other models remove the floor continuity. Also check that the switch is tight coolant cools to around 100°C the switch
panel (see Chapter 9). in the radiator, and that the earth wire on the should open (turn off) and the meter should
4 Trace the wiring from the fan motor and right-hand mounting bolt is secure and clean. show no continuity. If there is more than a 5%
disconnect it at the connector. On carburettor Unscrew the earth wire bolt, detach the wire error in the temperature at which the switch
models also disconnect the wiring connector and check that it shows continuity to earth. closes and opens, or if it shows continuity the
from the fan switch (see illustration 3.2). If it doesn’t locate the break or the detached whole time or no continuity the whole time,
Release the wiring from any clips or guides wire or terminal and repair it. replace it with a new one (Steps 12 and 13).
not attached to the fan assembly. Where 10 If the wiring is good, or if the fan works Replacement
necessary release and move aside the but is suspected of cutting in at the wrong 12 The switch is in the radiator -— on SH
reservoir hose, disconnecting it if required. temperature orison the whole time, remove the models remove the front panel for access, on
5 Undo the bolts securing the fan assembly to switch (Steps 12 and 13) and test it as follows: Dylan and @ models remove the floor panel
the radiator, noting the earth wire secured by fill a small heatproof container with coolant (see Chapter 9). Drain the cooling system (see
the right-hand bolt on carburettor models, and and place it on a stove. Using an ohmmeter Section 2).
remove the fan assembly (see illustrations). or continuity tester, connect the positive (+) 13 Disconnect the wiring connector from the
6 Installation is the reverse of removal. probe of the meter to the wire terminal on the switch (see illustration 3.2). Unscrew the
switch, and the negative (-) probe to the body switch. Discard the O-ring as a new one must
Cooling fan switch - carburettor of the sensor (see illustration). Using some be used.
models wire or other support suspend the sensor in 14 Installation is the reverse of removal. Fit a
Check the coolant so that just the sensing head up to new O-ring onto the switch, and tighten it to
the threads is submerged, and with the head the torque setting specified at the beginning of
7 If the engine is overheating and the cooling a minimum of 40 mm above the bottom of the the Chapter. Fill the system with the specified
fan isn’t coming on, first check the fan motor coolant (see Section 2). Run the engine and
container. Also place a thermometer capable
check the switch for leaks before installing the
THERMOMETER body panel.
Cooling fan relay - fuel injection
models
Check
15 If the engine is overheating and the cooling
fan isn’t coming on, first check the cooling fan
fuse (see Chapter 10). If the fuse is blown,
check the fan circuit for a short to earth (refer
to electrical system fault finding and the wiring
diagrams in Chapter 10).
16 If the fuse is good, on 2005 to 2008 SH
3.10 Fan switch test set-up 3.16 Undo the screws (arrowed) and models and PS models remove the glove box
remove the inner cover inner cover (see illustration). On 2009-on SH
 Cooling system 4¢5

of the battery to the blue wire terminal (the 24 Pull the relay off the wiring connector (see
other one on SH and PS models) on the relay, illustration 3.17).
and the negative (-) terminal to the black/blue 25 Installation is the reverse of removal.
wire terminal. At this point the relay should
be heard to click and the multimeter read 0 4 Temperature gauge and
ohms (continuity). If this is the case the relay is coolant temperature sensor
proved good. If the relay does not click when
battery voltage is applied and still indicates WH
no continuity (infinite resistance) across its
terminals, it is faulty and must be replaced Temperature gauge
with a new one.
19 If the relay is good, check for battery Check
voltage at the blue wire in the relay wiring 1 The circuit consists of the sensor mounted
3.17 Cooling fan relay (arrowed) -
connector with the ignition switch ON. If there in the thermostat housing and the gauge
Pantheon and S-wing models
is no voltage, check the wiring between the or warning light (according to model) in the
models remove the upper front panel, and
relay and the fusebox for continuity, referring instrument cluster. If the gauge does not work
on Pantheon and S-wing models remove the to the relevant wiring diagram at the end of as the engine warms up or the warning light
Chapter 10. does not come on momentarily when the
storage compartment (see Chapter 9). The
20 Check that there is continuity in the ignition is switched on first check the fuse,
relay fits onto a common connector with the
wiring from the relay wiring connector to the and then on models with a warning light check
main relay on SH and PS models, and with
fan wiring connector. If there is no continuity, the bulb in the instrument cluster (see Chapter
the fuel pump relay on Pantheon and S-wing
check all the wiring in the circuit, looking for 10). If the gauge is on H or the light is on all
models — identify which is which by the colour
loose connections and broken wires, referring the time that the ignition is on, there is a short
of the wires going into the connector, referring
to electrical system fault finding and the wiring circuit in the wire from the instrument cluster
to the wiring diagrams at the end of Chap-
diagrams in Chapter 10. to the sensor - locate and repair the break,
ter 10.
21 If the fan is on the whole time, pull the referring to electrical system fault finding and
17 Pull the relay off the wiring connector
relay off its connector. The fan should stop. the wiring diagrams in Chapter 10.
(See illustration). Using a jumper wire short 2 Next remove the storage compartment (see
If it does, the relay is defective and must be
between the blue and black wire terminals Chapter 9). Disconnect the wiring connector
replaced with a new one.
on SH and PS models and the black and from the temperature sensor in the thermostat
22 If the fan works but is suspected of cutting
green wire terminals on Pantheon and S-wing housing (see illustrations). With the ignition
in at the wrong temperature, check the coolant
models on the loom side of the connector with on, ground the wire terminal (green/blue
temperature sensor (See Section 4).
the ignition ON - the fan should come on. If it wire on fuel injection models with multi-pin
does, the wiring between the relay and the fan Removal and installation
connector) against the engine and check
and the circuit to earth is all good, so go to 23 On 2005 to 2008 SH models and PS that the needle moves to H on the gauge
Step 18 and check the relay, then if the relay is models remove the glove box inner cover (see or the temperature warning light comes on
good to Step 19 to check the power supply to illustration 3.16). On 2009-on SH models (according to model), then quickly disconnect
it. If the fan doesn’t come on, go to Step 20. remove the upper front panel, and on Pantheon the wire to avoid damaging the gauge. If the
18 Set a multimeter to the ohms x 1 scale and S-wing models remove the storage gauge moves or the light comes on check for
and connect it between the adjacent blue and compartment (see Chapter 9). The relay fits continuity to earth between the sensor hex
black wire terminals on SH and PS models onto a common connector with the main and the battery negative (-) terminal. If there
and the black and green wire terminals on relay on SH and PS models, and with the fuel is none make sure the earth connectors on
Pantheon and S-wing models. There should pump relay on Pantheon and S-wing models the engine and frame are tight. If all is good
be no continuity (infinite resistance). Using a — identify which is which by the colour of the remove the sensor and check it (Steps 5 to 8).
fully-charged 12 volt battery and two insulated wires going into the connector, referring to the 3 If the gauge does not move or the light does
jumper wires, connect the positive (+) terminal wiring diagrams at the end of Chapter 10. not come on, check the wiring and connectors

4.2a Coolant temperature sensor wiring connector (A) and earth 4.2b Coolant temperature sensor wiring connector (arrowed) -
connector (B) — carburettor models fuel injection models
 4e¢6 Cooling system

between the sensor and the instrument cluster Warning: This must be done the torque setting specified at the beginning
for continuity, referring to Chapter 10 for very carefully to avoid the risk of of the chapter. Connect the wiring.
access to the instrument cluster wiring and for personal injury. 12 Install the storage compartment (see
the wiring diagrams. If the wiring is good the 8 Begin to heat the coolant, stirring it gently. Chapter 9). Refill the cooling system (see
instrument cluster power circuit or the gauge When the temperature reaches around 50°C Section 2).
is faulty. First check the power circuit (see on Pantheon and S-wing models or 80°C on all
Chapter 10). other models, turn the heat down and maintain 5 Thermostat and housing
the temperature steady for three minutes. The
Replacement meter reading should be as specified at the
4 The temperature gauge is part of the beginning of the Chapter. Turn the heat on
instrument cluster and is covered in Chap- again. When the temperature reaches around
ter 10. 120°C (or the highest possible without the 1 The thermostat is automatic in operation and
coolant boiling), again turn the heat down should give many years service without requiring
and maintain it for three minutes. The meter attention. In the event of a failure, the valve will
Temperature gauge sensor reading should again be as specified at the probably jam open, in which case the engine
Check beginning of the Chapter. If the meter readings will take much longer than normal to warm up.
obtained are different by a margin of 10% or Conversely, if the valve jams shut, the coolant
5 Drain the cooling system (see Section 2).
more, then the sensor is faulty and must be will be unable to circulate and the engine will
6 Remove the sensor (see Steps 9 and 10
replaced with a new one. overheat. Neither condition is acceptable, and
below).
the fault must be investigated promptly.
7 Fill a small heatproof container with coolant Replacement
and place it on a stove. Using an ohmmeter, Removal
Warning: The engine must be
connect the positive (+) probe of the meter to Note: The complete thermostat housing can
completely cool before carrying
the terminal on the sensor (green/blue wire be removed without removing the thermostat
out this procedure.
terminal on fuel injection models with multi-pin 9 Drain the cooling system (see Section 2). itself if required.
terminal), and the negative (-) probe to the Remove the storage compartment (see Chapter Warning: The engine must be
body of the sensor. Using some wire or other 9). The sensor is mounted in the thermostat A completely cool before carrying
support suspend the sensor in the coolant so
housing (see illustration 4,2a or b). out this procedure.
that just the sensing head up to the threads is 10 Disconnect the sensor wiring connector. 2 Drain the coolant (see Section 2). The
submerged, and with the head a minimum of Unscrew and remove the sensor. Where fitted thermostat housing is on the right-hand side of
40 mm above the bottom of the container (see remove and discard the sealing washer — a the engine. Remove the storage compartment
illustration 3.10). Also place a thermometer new one must be used. and any other panels as required according to
capable of reading temperatures up to 130°C 11 Apply a suitable sealant to the thread of model to give the desired amount of access
in the coolant so that its bulb is close to the the sensor, making sure none gets on the (See Chapter 9).
sensor. Note: None of the components should sensor head. Install the sensor, using a new 3 On carburettor models disconnect the
be allowed to directly touch the container. sealing washer where fitted, and tighten it to temperature sensor earth wire (see illus-
tration 4.2a).
4 To remove the thermostat, unscrew the two
bolts securing the cover and detach it from the
housing — move any wiring and hoses aside
as required (see illustration). Withdraw the
thermostat, noting how it fits (see illustration).
5 Toremove the thermostat housing, disconnect
the temperature sensor wiring connector, and
if the thermostat has not been removed on
carburettor models disconnect the temperature
sensor earth wire (see illustration 4.2a or b).
Release the clamps securing the hoses and
= f eS. detach them. Unscrew the bolts securing the
5.4a Unscrew the bolts (arrowed) and housing and remove it — move any wiring and
5.4b ... then remove the thermostat
detach the cover... hoses aside as required (see illustration).
Discard the O-ring - a new one must be used.
Check
THERMOMETER 6 Examine the thermostat visually before
THERMOSTAT Carrying out the test. If it remains in the open
position at room temperature, it should
be
replaced with a new one. Check the conditi
on
of the rubber seal around the thermostat
and
replace it with a new one if it is damaged,
deformed or deteriorated.
7 Suspend the thermostat by a piece
of
wire in a container of cold water. Place
a
thermometer capable of reading temper
atures
i up to 110°C in the water so that the
bulb is
5.5 Removing the thermostat housing — close to the thermostat (see illustr
5.7 Thermostat testing set-up ation).
discard the O-ring (arrowed) and fit a new Heat the water, noting the temperature
when
one the thermostat opens, and compare the
result
with the Specifications given at the beginn
ing
 Cooling system 4¢7

eR:

oe
6.3a Radiator hoses (A) and rubber sh roud (B) - Dylan and @ 6.3b Radiator hoses (arrowed) — Pantheon and S-wing models
models
of the Chapter. Also check the amount the hoses from their unions on the engine rather (see Section 3). On all other models if required
valve opens after it has been heated for a few than on the radiator and remove the radiator remove the cooling fan (see Section 3),
minutes and compare the measurement to the with the hoses attached to it. Note the routing otherwise just disconnect the fan motor wiring
specifications. If the readings obtained differ of the hoses. connector and feed the wiring to the radiator,
from those given, the thermostat is faulty and noting its routing.
Removal
must be replaced with a new one. 3 Slacken the clamps securing the hoses to
8 In the event of thermostat failure, as an Warning: The engine must be the radiator and detach them, noting which
emergency measure only, it can be removed completely cool before carrying fits where (see illustrations). On Dylan and @
and the machine used without it (this is better out this procedure. models release the rubber shroud.
than leaving a permanently closed thermostat 1 On SH and PS models remove the front 4 Unscrew the radiator mounting bolts (see
in, but if it is permanently open, you might as panel, on all other models remove the floor illustrations). Ease the radiator out, noting how it
well leave it in). Note: Take care when starting panel (see Chapter 9). Drain the coolant (see locates. Note the arrangement of the collars and
the engine from cold as it will take much longer Section 2). rubber grommets in the radiator mounts, where
than usual to warm up. Ensure that a new unit 2 On SH and PS models remove the coolant fitted. Replace the grommets with new ones if
reservoir (see Section 8) and the cooling fan they are damaged, deformed or deteriorated.
is installed as soon as possible.

Installation
9 To install the thermostat, first make sure the
thermostat seal or cover O-ring is fitted and
is in good condition, otherwise fit a new one
— smear some fresh coolant over it. Install the
thermostat with the hole at the top, making
sure it locates correctly. Fit the cover onto the
housing, then install and tighten the bolts. On
carburettor models connect the temperature
sensor earth wire (see illustration 4.2a).
10 Install the thermostat housing using a new ae
fn :
™: ;
Sa SANS *
O-ring and tighten the bolts (see illustration
5.5). Fit the hoses onto their unions and tighten 6.4a Radiator lower mounting bolt 6.4b ... and upper mounting bolts
the hose clamps. Connect the temperature (arrowed)... (arrowed) - SH and PS models
sensor wiring connector, and if the thermostat
has not been removed on carburettor models
connect the temperature sensor earth wire
(see illustration 4.2a or b).
141 Install the body panels and storage
compartment as required according to model
(see Chapter 9). Refill the cooling system with
fresh coolant (see Section 2).

6 Radiator

Will ef,

6.4c Radiator mounting bolts (arrowed) - 6.4d Radiator mounting bolts (arrowed) -
Note: /f the radiator is being removed as part
Dylan and @ models Pantheon and S-wing models
of the engine removal procedure, detach the
4e8 Cooling system

5 If required and not already done, remove Honda dealer with the special tester required if there is oil leakage or if the leakage is an
the cooling fan, from the radiator (see Section to do the job. If the cap is defective, replace it emulsion-like mix of coolant and oil.
3). On SH and PS models remove the radiator with a new one.
shroud. Check the radiator for signs of Removal
damage and clear any dirt or debris that might 7 Water pump 4 Drain the coolant (see Chapter 1).
obstruct air flow and inhibit cooling. If the 5 If required release the clamps securing
radiator fins are badly damaged or broken the the hoses to the pump cover and detach the
radiator must be replaced with a new one. WU hoses (see illustration).
6 Unscrew the pump cover bolts and remove
Installation
the cover (see illustration). Discard the
Check
6 Installation is the reverse of removal, noting O-ring as a new one must be used. Remove
the following. 1 The water pump is located on the lower the cover dowels if they are loose.
@® Where fitted make sure the rubber right-hand side of the engine. Visually check 7 Rotate the water pump impeller and
grommets are in place and the bolt collars the area around the pump for signs of wiggle it back-and-forth and in-and-out (see
are correctly installed in them. leakage. illustration). Also check for corrosion or a
@ Make sure that the fan wiring is correctly 2 To prevent leakage of water from the cooling build-up of scale in the pump body. If there is
connected. system to the lubrication system and vice excessive noise or roughness when turning
@ Ensure the coolant hoses are in good versa, two seals are fitted on the pump shaft. the impeller, or excessive movement when
condition (see Chapter 1), and are securely Below the pump housing there is a drain hole. wiggling it, remove and disassemble the pump
retained by their clamps, using new ones if If either seal fails, the drain allows the coolant as follows.
necessary. or oil to escape and prevents them mixing. 8 Drain the engine oil (see Chapter 1). Refer to
® On completion refill the cooling system with 3 The seal on the water pump side is of the Chapter 10 and remove the alternator cover.
fresh coolant as described in Section 2. mechanical type which bears on the rear 9 Counter-hold the inner end of the pump
face of the impeller. The second seal, which shaft using a spanner on the flats, then
Pressure cap check is mounted behind the mechanical seal, is of unscrew the impeller — turn it clockwise to
7 If problems such as overheating or loss the normal feathered lip type. If on inspection unscrew it as it has left-hand threads. Remove
of coolant occur, check the entire system the drain shows signs of leakage remove the the large circlip securing the bearing in the
as described in Chapter 1. The radiator cap pump, and fit a new mechanical seal if there cover (see illustration). Draw the shaft out,
opening pressure should be checked by a is coolant leakage, and a new oil seal as well bringing the bearing with it.

7.7 Check the impeller (arrowed) as descri

bed 7.9 Remov e the circlip (arrowed)
 Cooling system 4¢9

8 Coolant reservoir

HUE
Removal
1 On SH, Dylan, @ and PS models remove
the front panel, and on Pantheon and S-wing
models remove the left-hand lower floor panel
(see Chapter 9).
ce 2 Get a suitable container for holding the
coolant below the reservoir.
7.17a Fit anew O-ring (arrowed) into the 7.17b Make sure the dowels (arrowed) are
3 Unscrew the reservoir mounting bolt(s)
groove in place then fit the cover
and manoeuvre the reservoir out, noting
how it locates, and detaching the hose
Seal and bearing replacement the bearing, facing its sharp edge away from when accessible, according to model (see
Note: Do not remove the seals unless they the bearing (see illustration 7.9). Thread illustrations). Drain the reservoir into the
the impeller onto the shaft, turning it anti- container.
need to be replaced with new ones — once
removed they cannot be re-used.
clockwise, and tighten it to the torque setting
specified at the beginning of the Chapter, Installation
10 To remove the mechanical seal, an
counter-holding the shaft end as before. 4 Installation is the reverse of removal. On
expanding knife-edge bearing puller with
Rotate the pump by hand to make sure it completion refill the reservoir to the UPPER
slide-hammer attachment is useful, if available.
turns freely (but take into account the grip of level line with the specified coolant mixture
Fit the expanding end of the puller behind the
the seals). (see Pre-ride checks).
seal, then turn the puller to expand it and lock
16 Refer to Chapter 10 and install the
it. Attach the slide hammer to the puller, then alternator cover.
operate the slide hammer to jar the bearing 9 Coolant hoses
17 Smear the new cover O-ring with
out. Alternatively drive the seal out using a grease and fit it into its groove in the cover
suitable drift inserted from the inner side of
the cover.
(see illustration). Fit the locating dowels if
removed, then fit the cover and tighten the
UL
11 Drive the oil seal out using a suitable drift bolts (see illustration). Connect the hoses if
inserted from the inner side of the cover, or detached, and secure them with the clamps Removal
use a seal hook from the outside. Note which (see illustration 7.5). 1 Before removing a hose, drain the coolant
way round the seal fits. 18 Fill the engine with the correct amount (see Chapter 1).
12 Fit the new oil seal into the cover and and type of oil and coolant (see Chapter 1). 2 Use a screwdriver to slacken the larger-bore
drive it in until it seats using a suitable socket.
13 Fit the new mechanical seal into the cover
and drive it in until it seats using a suitable
socket that bears only on the outer flange.
14 If a new bearing is needed remove the
circlip securing it on the shaft, then draw it
off and fit a new one in its place. Use a new
circlip to secure the bearing, facing its sharp
edge away from the bearing.
Installation
15 Fit the shaft through the seals, rotating
it to ease its passage through, and make
sure the bearing seats so the circlip groove
is fully exposed. Use a new circlip to secure 8.3b ...and locating peg - SH and PS
models

tS a)
8.3c Reservoir mounting bolt (arrowed) - 8.3d Reservoir mounting bolt (arrowed) - 8.3e Reservoir mounting bolts (arrowed) -
Dylan models @ models Pantheon and S-wing models
4°10 Cooling system

hose clamps, then slide them back along Whilst this means replacing the hose with
the hose and clear of the union spigot. The a new one, it is preferable to buying a new AVN if the hose is difficult to push —
small-bore hoses are secured by spring radiator. HINT on its union, soften it by
clamps which can be expanded by squeezing soaking it in very hot water, |
their ears together with pliers. Installation or alternatively a little soapy
Caution: The radiator unions are fragile. Do 4 Slide the clamps onto the hose and then water on the union can be used
as a
not use excessive force when attempting work the hose on to its union as far as the lubricant.
to remove the hoses. spigot where present.
3 If a hose proves stubborn, release it by 5 Rotate the hose on its unions to settle it in
rotating it on its union before working it off. If position before sliding the clamps into place 6 Refill the cooling system with fresh coolant
all else fails, cut the hose with a sharp knife. and tightening them securely. (see Section 2).
 5Ae1

Chapter 5A
Fuel and exhaust systems — carburettor engines
Contents Section number Section number
Air filter housing and air compensation chamber................ 3 FuelisyStemicheckSs.. scien cris witlcs tee ao salad» ane et see Chapter 1
Air filter Euehtaprand, fiterann nue tis caceias sans sctemnt nies Hauer otetene oyeg: 2
General information and precautionS..............0+00eeeeeee 1
idle TUel/air Mixture: AGJUSTIMEME i. soxce waim0 seis) sie ate,Sue ea a ee abe al 4
Idle'speed 7... foes cn. mrhlls Ap hemo ersbals Mbateeneta pose nee see Chapter 1
XMaAUSuoyStell cae ete eae ine ac:eh nitaerraae cess oh Ge Saas 10 Pulse secondary air (PAIR) system. ..........-2+e
cee ees Geen 11
Float height check Throttle cable check and adjustment................ see Chapter 1
FueTogaugerancdleveliSQnsSOn usec fegien. aes Kees gie a alee s 12 Throttle cable removal and installation...............-....+05- 9

Degrees of difficulty
A ANN Fairly difficult, SS Difficult, suitable
EN
Easy, suitable for Fairly easy, suitable NS Very difficult,

x
suitable for competent Ay for experienced DIY Ww
x
novice with little for beginner with suitable for expert
experience some experience ™~ DIY mechanic mechanic DIY or professional

Specifications
Fuel
ACC MRA Wie de te Sicha, Meals nits Seley boea,- - APE wt cnet Unleaded. Minimum 91 RON (Research Octane Number)
GN TAINO GODACIVRS Pep. cis aiassyh cialis <aeter ys «a oie dda gle ele see Chapter 1

Carburettor
Type CV
ID number
ReRIOCIEN CICS epi ia aera teutioksarh. Sis yates, «,» cheng ie. sere siete VK4AA
SOO CMONIGUNGS tare aks Sianta isin slag aie sueys Agejaiva/o) «hoe Bat Staelin atBIER TaD VK4EA
Pilot screw setting (see text)
SH models
AIS CLINGS trade teasic f mucicy aisye ahs cabs. x i opened oe taonA sleet niet 1 1/2 turns out
PSU ENICUINSS iientes eran aye cre ts «Keys ioyaunt ecb ampieacRebegenct =x: a \06 1 1/4 turns out
Dylan and @ models
PODIGGENGINGS iets ae 2 cae clean cre alsakeaoeagegeiede)> tbs ceal 1 7/8 turns out
I SOICCONGINES fae eis ee sie cysts inisues noapes = estat iene ont)atteietehapaipt 1 3/4 turns out
Float height
SS anil GuINOGElS ae seich aie cre wena ataleks ebacna se Mia ates waaialeneayey aastctt 18.0 mm
DVieMTIOGEStee, cheers ectrce eetcie acorate ald nycten siebeume syate qyioke nayelanlnolay 18.2 mm
Hees SOC Caterteeere ceetys thet< 2g ecarnle ele winies ule = uilelisletnls ols’afetarocadene xs see Chapter 1
Pilot jet
SH models and 2002 Dylan modelS..........:00ceeeneneeeuee 38
2003-on Dylan models and @ models .......--.- +--+ seve eeeeee 35
Main jet 112

Automatic choke unit

ERS SIS EA CE eee rae etal sa eee ania nse aes aie) gaia whl goa, Rump ew alae max. 10 K-ohm

Fuel level sensor

Ge, Sic Bre
(Syyorisye ESIGUEINV Oe 3 Rien Cho ae Ole EIDE Dic UNCER roma it see table (Section 12)

PAIR system
Gontrol Valve rESIStaNnCG = wade cveticlce dine oe ene eels an Pe dle 20 to 24 ohms 20°C

Torque settings
Carburettor intake duct boltS... 02sec cece ete...
.... eee ene 12 Nm
Fuel tap nut 23 Nm
29 Nm
Exhaust downpipe nuts ......... 066 e ee eee eee eters
SSNCaTa DON SMa eee re ie tee cee ettterinlee = met nie aycler esatielofa cue grails 49 Nm
PAIR reed valve COver DOltS 2... 2... 2. ccc n tees ree eee nes 5 Nm
 SAe2 Fuel and exhaust systems — carburettor engines

ms a —

2.2 Detach the vacuum hose (arrowed) from the intake duct

Never work in a building containing a gas diaphragm inside the tap. If the tap is faulty,
1 General information and appliance with a pilot light, or any other form it must be replaced with a new one - it is a
precautions of naked flame. Ensure that there are no naked sealed unit for which no individual components
light bulbs or any sources of flame or sparks are available. The most likely problem is a hole
nearby. or split in the tap diaphragm.
SH models from 2001 to 2004, all Dylan Do not smoke (or allow anyone else to 2 To check the tap, remove the storage
models and all @ models are fitted with a smoke) while in the vicinity of petrol or of compartment and the body cover (see Chapter
carburettor. All other models have a fuel components containing it. Remember the 9). Detach the fuel hose from the carburettor
injection system (see Chapter 5B). possible presence of vapour from these
and place the open end in a small container
The fuel system consists of the fuel tank, sources and move well clear before smoking.
(see illustration 2.1). Detach the vacuum
fuel tap with filter, carburettor, fuel hoses and Check all electrical equipment belonging to
hose from the intake duct (see illustration).
control cables. the house, garage or workshop where work is
Apply a vacuum to it (suck on the hose end).
The fuel tap is automatic in operation and being undertaken (see the Safety first! section
Fuel should flow from the tap and into the
is opened by engine vacuum. The fuel filter is of this manual). Remember that certain
electrical appliances such as drills, cutters container — if it doesn’t, the diaphragm is
fitted inside the fuel tank and is part of the tap.
probably split.
For cold starting, an electrically-operated etc. create sparks in the normal course of
automatic choke is fitted in the carburettor. operation and must not be used near petrol or 3 Before fitting a new tap, check that the
A carburettor heater system passes hot any component containing it. Again, remember vacuum hose is securely attached, and that
engine coolant through a passage to prevent the possible presence of fumes before using there are no splits or cracks in it. If in doubt,
carburettor icing. A throttle position sensor electrical equipment. attach a spare hose to the vacuum union on
provides information on throttle position and Always mop up any spilt fuel and safely the tap and again apply a vacuum. If fuel still
rate of change to the ECU for optimum ignition dispose of the rag used. does not flow, remove the tap and fit a new
timing. Any stored fuel that is drained off during one.
Air is drawn into the carburettor via an air servicing work must be kept in sealed
Removal
filter and compensation chamber which is containers that are suitable for holding petrol,
housed above the transmission casing. The air and clearly marked as such; the containers 4 The tap should not be removed
filter incorporates a pilot air valve that controls themselves should be kept in a safe place. unnecessarily from the tank.
the flow of air to the pilot circuit. Read the Safety first! section of this manual 5 Before removing the tap, detach the fuel
carefully before starting work. hose from the carburettor and draw it out to
Precautions the side below the tap (see illustration). Place
Warning: Petrol is extremely the end in a fuel can with enough capacity to
flammable, so take extra 2 Fuel tap and filter
pre-cautions when you work on
any part of the fuel system. Don’t smoke
or allow open flames or bare light bulbs Hil

AN
near the work area, and don’t work in a
Warning: Refer to the precautions
garage where a natural gas-type appliance
given in Section 1 before starting
is present. If you spill any fuel on your
work.
skin, rinse it off immediately with soap and
water. When you perform any kind of work Check
on the fuel system, wear safety glasses and 1 The fuel tap is located on the underside of
have a fire extinguisher suitable for a class the fuel tank at the front, on the right-hand
B type fire (flammable liquids) on hand. side on SH models and on the left on Dylan
Always perform service procedures in a and @ models (see illustration). The tap is
well-ventilated area to prevent a build-up of
automatic, operated by a vacuum created 2.5 Detach the fuel hose (arrowed) from
fumes. when the engine is running which opens a the carburettor
 Fuel and exhaust systems — carburettor engines 5Ae3

store the fuel in the tank. Detach the vacuum

hose from the intake duct (see illustration
2.2) and apply a vacuum to it, and allow the
tank to fully drain. Reconnect the hoses to the
carburettor and duct, and then detach them
from the tap (see illustration 2.1).
6 Unscrew the nut and withdraw the tap
assembly from the tank (see illustration 2.1).
Remove the O-ring and discard it - a new one
must be used.
7 Clean the gauze filter to remove all traces
of dirt and fuel sediment. Check the gauze for
——— RO ae ie :
holes. If any are found, fit a new filter.
3.3 Slacken the clamp screw (A) and undo
Installation detach the hose the screws (B)
8 Fit the filter if removed, and a new O-ring.
Fit the fuel tap into the tank and tighten the
nut, to the torque setting specified at the
beginning of the Chapter if you have the
correct tools (see illustration 2.1).
9 Fit the fuel and vacuum hoses onto their
respective unions and secure them with their
clips — the fuel hose goes on the upper union
and the vacuum hose on the lower one.

3. Air filter housing and air

:
compensation chamber
WH 3.4 Detach the drain hose
5 Unscrew the bolts securing the air filter
Air filter housing housing to the transmission casing and
manoeuvre the housing away, noting how it
Removal
fits, and detaching the crankcase breather
1 Remove the storage compartment (see hose from its union when accessible (see
Chapter 9). illustrations).
2 Release the clamp and detach the idle Installation
air control valve hose from its union on the
6 Installation is the reverse of removal.
carburettor (see illustration).
3 Slacken the clamp securing the air duct Air compensation chamber
to the compensation chamber, and undo the
screws securing the filter housing to the rear Removal
hugger and compensation chamber (see 7 Remove the storage compartment (see
illustration). Chapter 9).
3.5b ... release the wiring from its clip on
4 Detach the drain hose from its union on the 8 Release the clamps and detach the PAIR
the front mount (arrow) .. .
rear of the housing (see illustration). system air hose and the carburettor vent

: Oo

f >

aad a a
a
. and detach the crankcase breather hose 3.8 Detach the hoses (A), release the wiring and hose (B), slacken
the clamp screws (C), undo the screw and the bolt (D)
5Ae4 Fuel and exhaust systems — carburettor engines

hose from their unions on the chamber (see a new pilot screw, turn the screw in until it
illustration). Release the wiring from its guide seats, then back it out the number of turns
on the right-hand side of the chamber and the specified at the beginning of the Chapter.
idle air control valve hose from the left. 3 Pilot screw adjustment must be made with
9 Slacken the clamps securing the chamber the engine running and at normal working
to the air filter housing and air intake duct on temperature. Stop the engine and screw the
the carburettor. pilot screw in until it seats lightly, then back
10 Undo the screw and the bolt and it out the number of turns specified at the
manoeuvre the chamber out. beginning of this Chapter. Start the engine
Installation and set the idle speed to the specified amount
(see Chapter 1). :
11 Installation is the reverse of removal.
4 Now turn the pilot screw outwards by %
turn at a time until the idle speed increases.
4 Idle fuel/air mixture Re-adjust the idle speed.
adjustment 5 Now turn the pilot screw in until the idle

Mi amount
speed drops by 50 rpm, noting exactly the
of turn it takes. Now turn the pilot screw H46880
Warning: Adjustment of the pilot out by half that amount so it is set between the
screw is made with the engine two parameters. Re-adjust the idle speed. 4.1 The pilot screw (A) is below the throttle
running. To prevent accidents 6 If it is not possible to achieve a satisfactory idle position sensor (B)
caused by the rear wheel contacting the speed after adjusting the pilot screw, take the the multimeter set to the K-ohms scale. If the
ground, ensure that the scooter is on machine to a scooter dealer and have the fuel/air result is not as specified at the beginning of the
its centrestand and if necessary place a mixture adjusted with the aid of an exhaust gas Chapter, replace the choke unit with a new one
support under the scooter to prevent the analyser. Also bear in mind that it is possible the (see Steps 7 and 8).
rear wheel contacting the ground. Do not problem is not down to the fuel system — ignition 4 To check that the plunger is not seized in
run the scooter in an enclosed space. system causes should also be considered. the choke body, first remove the choke unit
1 Idle fuel/air mixture is set using the pilot screw from the carburettor (see Section 8). Measure
(see illustration). Adjustment of the pilot screw 5 Automatic choke unit and the protrusion of the plunger from the body.
is not normally necessary and should only be idle air control valve Next, use jumper wires to connect a good
performed if the engine is running roughly, stalls
continually, or if the pilot screw has been turned Mi 12v battery to the choke unit terminals and
measure the protrusion again after 5 minutes.
or a new pilot screw has been fitted. Before If the measurement has not increased by
adjusting the pilot screw make sure the spark Automatic choke unit
approximately 3 to 6 mm (depending on
plugs are clean and in good condition with the Check
the type of carburettor) the unit is faulty and
correct gap, the air filter is clean, the fuel, air 1 Poor starting or poor engine performance should be replaced with a new one.
and vacuum hoses are all in good condition and and an increase in fuel consumption are
secure at each end, and the carburettor clamps possible signs that the automatic choke is not Removal and installation
are tight and the ducts in good condition so working properly. 5 Remove the storage compartment (see
there are no air leaks, and the intake manifold 2 The resistance of the choke unit can be Chapter 9).
bolts are tight, and the valve clearances are checked with a multimeter after the engine has 6 Trace the wiring from the choke unit on the
correct — refer to Chapter 1. been warmed to normal operating temperature left-hand side of the carburettor and disconnect
2 If the pilot screw is removed during a and then allowed to cool. Remove the storage it at the connector (see illustration).
carburettor overhaul, record its current setting compartment (see Chapter 9). Trace the wiring 7 Remove the cover from the unit. Undo the
by turning it in until it seats lightly, counting from the choke unit on the left-hand side of the screw securing the retaining plate and draw
the number of turns necessary to achieve this, carburettor and disconnect it at the connector the choke unit out. Remove the plate, noting
then unscrew it fully. On installation, turn the (see illustration 5.6). how it locates. Discard the O-ring - a new one
screw in until it seats lightly, then back it out 3 Measure the resistance between the terminals must be used (see illustration).
the number of turns you’ve recorded. If fitting on the choke unit side of the connector with 8 Install the unit using a new O-ring, and make

5.6 Automatic choke unit (A - cover removed), and its mounting

5.7 Remove the O-ring (arrowed) and fit a new one on installat
plate screw (B) ion
 Fuel and exhaust systems — carburettor engines 5Ae5

sure the retaining plate is correctly located in @ Make sure the air and intake ducts are
its groove. correctly positioned and fully engaged with
Idle air control valve the carburettor and the clamps securely
tightened. The duct joint between the
9 Poor engine performance at temperatures carburettor and the intake duct must
below 15°C or a rich mixture are possible be fitted with the CARB mark facing the
signs that the idle air contro! valve is not carburettor and the HEAD mark facing the
working properly. duct.
10 Remove the storage compartment (see @ Fit a new O-ring into the groove in the
Chapter 9) and the air filter (see Chapter 1). mating surface of the intake duct. Tighten
Check that the valve air hose is securely the duct bolts to the torque setting
connected to its union on the carburettor specified at the beginning of the Chapter
(see illustration 3.2) and to that on the valve (see illustration 6.7).
(see illustration). Check the hose for splits 5.10 Idle air control valve (A) and its @ Make sure all hoses and wiring are correctly
and cracks and replace it with a new on if hose (B) and screw (C) routed and secured and not trapped or
necessary. kinked.
illustration). Free the wiring from any clips or
11 Undo the screw and remove the valve. @ Check the throttle cable adjustment (see
ties.
12 Get two suitable containers for holding Chapter 1).
4 Place a rag under the right-hand side of
water into which the valve can be suspended. @ If any coolant was lost top-up the cooling
the carburettor. Clamp the carburettor heater
Fill one container with cold water (5°C) and system if necessary.
hoses to prevent coolant loss, then detach
one with warm water (20 to 25°C). Using @ Check the idle speed and adjust as
the hoses from their unions on the carburettor
some wire or other support suspend the necessary (see Chapter 1).
(see illustration).
sensing portion of the valve in the cold water
5 Release the throttle cable from its bracket,
for at least two minutes, making sure the air 7 Carburettor overhaul
then detach the cable end from the pulley
inlet and outlet ports are clear of the water.
(see illustrations 9.2a, b and c).
Remove the valve and try to blow through the
6 Release the clamp and detach the fuel tap
air ports — the valve should be closed so no air
vacuum hose from its union on the intake duct
should flow. Repeat
the test in the warm water
(see illustration 2.2). Warning: Refer to the precautions
— the valve should now be open allowing air to
7 Have some rag to hand to catch the given in Section 1 before
flow through. If the valve does not perform as
residual fuel in the fuel hose. Unscrew the proceeding.
described, replace the valve with a new one.
bolts securing the intake duct to the engine
The temperature at which the valve should
(see illustration). Lift the carburettor, then General information
open and close is in the range 10 to 15°C.
release the clamp and detach the fuel hose 1 Poor engine performance, difficult starting,
from its union, catching any fuel in the rag stalling, flooding and backfiring are all
6 Carburettor removal and Ee (see illustration 2.5). The breather and drain signs that carburettor maintenance may be
installation x hoses can be left attached and removed with required.
~ the carburettor — note the routing of the drain
hose as it is withdrawn. Discard the intake
2 Keep in mind that many so-called
carburettor problems can often be traced
Warning: Refer to the precautions duct O-ring - a new one must be used. to mechanical faults within the engine or
UN given in Section 1 before starting 8 Loosen the drain screw on the bottom of ignition system malfunctions. Try to establish
work. the carburettor and drain all the fuel into a for certain that the carburettor is in need
suitable container. of maintenance before beginning a major
Removal 9 If required slacken the clamps securing the overhaul.
1 Remove the storage compartment (see air and intake ducts and detach them from the 3 Check the fuel tap and filter, the fuel and
Chapter 9). carburettor, noting how they locate. vacuum hoses, the intake duct joints, the air
2 Release the clamp and detach the idle Caution: Stuff clean rag into the intake filter, the ignition system and the spark plug
air control valve hose from its union on the after removing the carburettor to prevent before assuming that a carburettor overhaul is
carburettor (see illustration 3.2). Remove the anything from falling inside. required.
air compensation chamber (see Section 3). 4 Most carburettor problems are caused
3 Trace the wiring from the automatic Installation by dirt particles, varnish and other deposits
choke unit and throttle position sensor 10 Installation is the reverse of removal, which build up in and eventually block the fuel
and disconnect it at the connectors (see noting the following: jets and air passages inside the carburettor.
a
Me 7 emma si
ee 9 ;
es y

(A) and throttle 6.4 Clamp the hoses (arrowed), then 6.7 Unscrew the intake duct bolts
position sensor (B) detach them (arrowed)
5SA*6 Fuel and exhaust systems — carburettor engines

eS po

7.9a Undo the screws (arrowed) and 7.9b ...the spring and the diaphragm/ 7.10a Release the needle retainer
remove the cover... piston assembly (arrowed) (arrowed)...

Also, in time, gaskets and O-rings deteriorate note their exact locations and any springs or anti-clockwise, then lift out the retainer, noting
and cause fuel and air leaks which lead to O-rings that may be fitted. the spring fitted underneath, then push the
poor performance. 8 If required remove the automatic choke unit needle up from the bottom of the piston and
5 When overhauling the carburettor, (see Section 5). If so, and again if required, withdraw it from the top (see illustrations).
disassemble it completely and clean the parts undo the choke unit housing screws and 11 Undo the screws securing the float
thoroughly with a carburettor cleaning solvent. remove the housing. Discard the sealing-ring chamber to the base of the carburettor and
If available, blow through the fuel jets and as a new one must be fitted. Do not remove remove it (see illustration). Discard the
air passages with compressed air to ensure the throttle position sensor. sealing ring as a new one must be used.
they are clear. Once the cleaning process is 9 Undo the top cover screws, then lift off the 12 Using a pair of thin-nose pliers, carefully
complete, reassemble the carburettor using cover and remove the spring from inside the withdraw the float pin — if necessary, displace
new gaskets and O-rings. piston (see illustrations). Carefully peel the the pin using a small punch or a nail. Remove
6 Before disassembling the carburettor, make diaphragm away from its sealing groove in the float and unhook the float needle
sure you have the correct carburettor gasket the carburettor and withdraw the diaphragm valve, noting how it fits onto the tab (see
set, some carburettor cleaner, a supply of and piston assembly. Note how the tab on the illustration).
clean rags, some means of blowing out the diaphragm fits in the recess in the carburettor 13 Unscrew the pilot jet (see illustration).
carburettor passages and a clean place to body. Unscrew the main jet, which threads into
work. Caution: Do not use a sharp instrument the base of the needle jet, then unscrew the
to displace the diaphragm as it is easily needle jet.
Disassembly damaged. 14 The pilot screw can be removed if required,
7 Remove the carburettor (see Section 6). 10 Using a Phillips screwdriver push down but note that its setting will be disturbed (see
Take care when removing components to lightly on the needle retainer and turn it 90° Haynes Hint). Unscrew and remove the pilot
screw along with its spring, washer and O-ring
(see illustration 4.1). Note: Do not remove
the screws securing the throttle butterfly to
the throttle shaft.

PVNaiaa] To record the pilot screw’s

current setting, turn the
HINT screw in until it seats lightly, —
counting the number of |
turns necessary to achieve this, then
unscrew it fully. On installation, turn the
screw in until it seats, then back it out
SE the number of turns you’ve recorded.
7.10b ...and remove the retainer (A),
spring (B) and needle (C) from the piston
Cleaning
Caution: Use only a petroleum-based
solvent for carburettor cleaning. Don’t use
caustic cleaners.
15 Use carburettor cleaning solvent to loosen
and dissolve the varnish and other deposits
on the carburettor body and float chamber;
use a nylon-bristled brush to remove the
stubborn deposits. Dry the components with
compressed air. Note: Avoid soaking the
carburettor body in solvent if any O-ring seals
remain inside.
16 If available, use compressed air to blow
a:
out all the fuel jets and the air passages in the
7.12 Remove the float then detach the 7.13 Pilot jet (A), main jet (B) carburettor body, not forgetting the passages
needle valve (arrowed) from it in the carburettor intake.
 Fuel and exhaust systems — carburettor engines 5Ae7

7.28 Fit a new sealing ring (arrowed) into 7.30 Make sure the tab (arrowed) is 8.4 Checking float height
the groove in the chamber correctly aligned and the diaphragm rim
seats properly

Caution: Never clean the jets or passages washer and O-ring (see illustration 4.1). connector, then turn the ignition ON. The oil
with a piece of wire or a drill bit, as they Adjust the screw to the setting as noted on change warning light in the instrument cluster
will be enlarged, causing the fuel and air removal (see Step 14). If a new pilot screw is will come on and after a few seconds will blink
metering rates to be upset. fitted, or if you want to make sure the previous twice and then stay on — this indicates that
setting was correct, check and adjust the the resetting procedure is complete. Turn the
Inspection ignition OFF and remove the jumper wire.
screw after assembling and installing the
17 If removed, check the tapered portion carburettor (see Section 4).
of the pilot screw and the spring for wear 25 Fit the needle jet, then fit the main jet into 8 Float height check SS
or damage. Fit a new O-ring, and replace
the screw and/or spring with new ones if
necessary. 4
the bottom of it (see illustration 7.13).
26 Fit the pilot jet (see illustration 7.13). x~S
27 Hook the float needle valve onto the float
18 Check the carburettor body, float chamber tab, then position the float assembly in the
and top cover for cracks, distorted sealing carburettor, making sure the needle valve 1 If the carburettor floods when the scooter
surfaces and other damage. If any defects are enters its seat (see illustration 7.12). Fit the is in use, and the float needle valve and the
found, replace the faulty component, although valve seat are good, the float height should
pin, making sure it is secure. Check the float
replacement of the entire carburettor will be checked and the result compared to the
height (see Section 8).
probably be necessary. specification at the beginning of the Chapter.
28 Fit a new sealing ring onto the float
2 If not already done, remove the carburettor
19 Inspect the piston diaphragm for splits, chamber, making sure it is seated properly
(see Section 6).
holes and general deterioration. Holding it up in its groove, then fit the chamber onto the
3 Undo the screws securing the float chamber
to a light will help to reveal problems of this carburettor and tighten the screws (see
to the base of the carburettor and remove it
nature. Insert the piston in the carburettor illustration).
(see illustration 7.11). Discard the sealing
body and check that the piston moves 29 Insert the needle into the piston (see
ring as a new one must be used.
up-and-down smoothly in its bore. Check the illustration 7.10b). Fit the spring, then fit
4 Turn the carburettor on its side so that the
surface of the piston for wear. If it’s worn or needle retainer, pressing down lightly on it and
float needle valve is just resting against the
scored excessively or doesn’t move smoothly, turning it 90° clockwise to lock it in place (see
valve seat and measure the distance between
replace the components with new ones as illustration 7.10a).
the float chamber gasket face and the bottom
necessary. 30 Align the tab on the diaphragm with the
of the float (see illustration).
20 Check the needle is straight by rolling it recess in the carburettor body, then fit the
5 Compare the result with the specified
on a flat surface such as a piece of glass. Fita piston assembly into the carburettor, ensuring
measurement.
new needle if it’s bent or if the tip is worn. the needle is correctly aligned with the needle 6 If the float height is incorrect, carefully bend
21 Inspect the tip of the float needle valve. If jet - keep the piston held up, holding it with the float needle valve tab until the float height
it has grooves or scratches in it, or is in any your finger inserted in the venturi, and press it is as specified.
way worn, it must be replaced with a new one. the rim of the diaphragm into its groove, 7 Fit anew sealing ring onto the float chamber,
If the valve seat is damaged a new carburettor making sure it is correctly seated (see making sure it is seated properly in its groove,
body will have to be fitted. illustration). Check the diaphragm is not then fit the chamber onto the carburettor and
22 Operate the throttle shaft to make sure creased, and that the piston moves smoothly tighten the screws (see illustration 7.28).
the throttle butterfly valve opens and closes up and down in its bore.
smoothly. If it doesn’t, cleaning the throttle 31 Keeping the piston held up (to prevent the
9 Throttle cable
linkage may help. Otherwise, fit a new the rim of the diaphragm unseating), fit the spring
carburettor. into the piston then fit the top cover, making
23 Check the float for damage. This will sure the spring locates over the raised section
usually be apparent by the presence of fuel on the inside of it, then tighten the cover
inside the float. If the float is damaged, replace screws (see illustrations 7.9b and a). Warning: Refer to the precautions
it with a new one. 32 If removed, fit the automatic choke unit given in Section 1 before
housing using a new sealing ring. Install the proceeding.
Reassembly choke unit (see Section 5).
Removal
Note: When reassembling the carburettor, 33 Install the carburettor (see Section 7).
be sure to use new O-rings and seals. Do not 34 Reset the throttle position sensor. Remove Note: This procedure covers both carburettor
overtighten the carburettor jets and screws as the battery cover and locate the white 2-pin and fuel injection models. On S-wing models
connector near the fusebox. Using a short the throttle cable pulley is housed in the
they are easily damaged.
jumper wire, bridge the two terminals in the handlebar switch housing — referrals to the
24 |f removed, install the pilot screw, spring,
5Ae®8 Fuel and exhaust systems — carburettor engines

a
9.2a Slacken the nut (arrowed)... 9.2b ... then free the cable elbow from 9.2c . . .and detach the end from the
the bracket... pulley

throttle pulley housing therefore refer to the Installation illustration 9.2c). Locate the elbow in the
switch housing. bracket (see illustration 9.2b), then set the
5 Thread the throttle pulley housing onto
1 Remove the body panels as required on nuts so the cable freeplay is as specified (see
the upper end of the cable elbow without it
your scooter to expose the cable from the Chapter 1).
becoming tight - the elbow must stay loose
handlebar to the carburettor (see Chap- 8 Operate the throttle to check that it opens
so that it aligns itself (see illustration 9.4d).
ter 9). and closes freely.
Lubricate the cable end with multi-purpose
2 Slacken the nuts on the cable elbow and 9 Turn the handlebars back-and-forth to make
grease and fit it into the throttle pulley (see
free the cable from the bracket, noting how sure the cable doesn’t cause the steering to
illustration 9.4c). Assemble the housing onto
it locates (see illustrations). Free the cable bind.
the handlebar, making sure the pin locates in
end from the pulley on the carburettor (see 10 Install the body panels (see Chapter 9).
the hole, then fit the screws and tighten them
illustration). 11 Start the engine and check that the idle
(see illustration).
3 Draw the cable out, noting its routing. speed does not rise as the handlebars are
6 Feed the cable through to the carburettor,
4 Unscrew the cable elbow nut from the turned. If it does, the throttle cable is routed
making sure it is correctly routed. The cable
throttle pulley housing (see illustration). incorrectly. Correct the problem before riding
must not interfere with any other component
Undo the housing screws and separate the motorcycle.
and should not be kinked or bent sharply. Now
the halves (see illustration). Detach tighten the cable elbow nut on the housing
the cable end from the pulley, then thread (see illustration 9.4a).
the housing off the cable elbow (see 7 Lubricate the cable end with multi- 10 Exhaust system
illustrations). purpose grease and fit it into the pulley (see

Mil
Warning: If the engine has been
A running the exhaust system will
be very hot. Allow the system to
cool before carrying out any work.
Removal
1 Remove the right-hand floor side panel and
for best access the belly panel (see Chap-
ter 9).
2 Undo the nuts securing the downpipe
to the exhaust port in the head (see
illustration).
9.4b ... then undo the housing screws 3 Unscrew the bolts securing the silencer,
(arrowed) then support the exhaust system, remove the

9.4c Detach the cable end... 9.4d ... then thread the housing off the 9.5 Assemble the housing halves, locating
cable the pin in the hole
 Fuel and exhaust systems — carburettor engines 5Ae9

10.2 Undo the nuts (arrowed) 10.3a Unscrew the bolts (arrowed)...

bolts, and manoeuvre the exhaust out. (see gases, causing any unburned particles of
illustrations) the fuel in the mixture to be burnt in the
4 Remove the gasket from the exhaust pipe exhaust port/pipes. This process changes a
or port and discard it as a new one must be considerable amount of hydrocarbons and
used (see illustration 10.5). carbon monoxide into relatively harmless
carbon dioxide and water. The reed valve in
PIMA) Exhaust system fixings tend the valve cover is fitted to prevent the flow
HINT to become corroded and of exhaust gases back up the cylinder head
seized. It is advisable to passage and into the control valve.
spray them with penetrating
oil before attempting to loosen them. Testing
Control valve
Installation 3 Remove the valve (see Steps 8 to 10).
5 Installation is the reverse of removal, noting 4 Check the operation of the control valve by 10.5 Fit the new gasket onto the exhaust
the following: blowing through the air intake hose union — air pipe
@ Clean the exhaust port studs and lubricate should flow out through the reed valve hose when sucked back up. If this is not the case
them with a suitable copper-based grease union. Now connect a 12 volt battery to the the reed valve is faulty, though it is worth
before reassembly. terminals in the control valve wiring connector removing it (see Steps 12 to 14) and cleaning
@ Clean the jointing surfaces of the exhaust and repeat the check — no air should now flow off any carbon deposits.
port and the pipe. through the valve if it is functioning correctly.
@ Use a new gasket and fit it onto the Replace the valve with a new one if faulty. Component renewal
flange of the exhaust header pipe (see 5 Connect the probes of a multimeter set Control valve
illustration). to read resistance (ohms) to the terminals in
the connector and measure the resistance 8 Remove the storage compartment (See
@ Leave the nuts and bolts finger tight until
of the valve windings. If it is not in the range Chapter 9).
all have been installed, then tighten the
9 Release the clamps and detach the air
exhaust port nuts first, then the bolts, to the specified at the beginning of the Chapter
hoses from the control valve (see illustration).
torque settings specified at the beginning replace the valve with a new one.
Disconnect the wiring connector. On models
of the Chapter. Reed valve with a common sub-loom to the thermostat
@ Run the engine and check that there are no
6 Remove the maintenance access panel (see housing disconnect the wiring from the coolant
exhaust gas leaks.
Chapter 9). Disconnect the hose from the reed temperature sensor and its earth terminal (see
valve housing (see illustration 11.13). Attach illustration).
11 Pulse secondary air (PAIR) aS
a clean auxiliary hose of the correct bore and 10 Unscrew the bolts and remove the sensor
system about 12 inches long to the union. (see illustration 11.9a). Note the collars in the
WH 7 Check the valve by blowing and sucking on
the auxiliary hose end. Air should flow through
grommets.
11 Installation is the reverse of removal.
the hose only when blown down it and not Check the condition of the rubber grommets
General information PHY We a , ar &
4 1 3

1 To reduce the amount of unburned

hydrocarbons released in the exhaust gases, a
pulse secondary air (PAIR) system is fitted. The
system consists of the control valve (mounted
on the right-hand side of the engine), the reed
valve (fitted in the valve cover) and the hoses
linking them. The control valve is actuated by
electronically by the ECU.
2 Under normal running conditions, the
ECU opens up the PAIR control valve which
then allows filtered air to be drawn from the
compensation chamber through the reed
valve and cylinder head passage and into the 411.9a PAIR control valve hoses (A) and
exhaust port. The air mixes with the exhaust mounting bolts (B) wiring connectors (arrowed)
5Ae¢10 Fuel and exhaust systems — carburettor engines

C=

11.13 Release the clamp (arrowed) and 11.14a Unscrew the bolts (arrowed) and 11.14b ... and the reed valve
detach the hose remove the cover...

and fit new ones if they are damaged, mounted in the top of the fuel tank and the a leak, and check that the arm moves up and
deformed or deteriorated. Make sure the gauge mounted in the instrument cluster. down smoothly.
collars are fitted in the grommets. Make sure If the instruments malfunction first check 6 Connect the probes of an ohmmeter to the
the hoses are pushed fully onto their unions the instrument cluster fuse (see Chap- specified terminals on the sensor connector as
and secured by their clamps (see illustration ter 10). shown in the table and check the resistance
11.9a). Connect the temperature sensor and 2 To check the gauge, remove the storage of the sensor in both the FULL and EMPTY
control valve wiring connectors. compartment and the body cover (see positions for each connection. If the readings
Reed valve Chapter 9). Trace the wiring from the sensor are not as specified, replace the sensor with a
and disconnect it at the wiring connector (see new one (Steps 11 and 12).
12 Remove the storage compartment (See
illustration).
Chapter 9).
13 Release the clamp and detach the air hose 3 Connect a jumper wire between the yellow/
Full Empty
white and green wire terminals on the loom
from its union (see illustration). position [position
14 Unscrew the bolts securing the reed valve side of the connector, then turn the ignition
on — the gauge needle should move the FULL Green/black - 30 to 45 400 to 700
cover and remove the cover (see illustration). yellow/white ohms ohms
Remove the reed valve, noting which way position. Detach the jumper wire and turn the
ignition off. Yellow/white — 450 to 750 | 450 to 750
around it is fitted (see illustration).
4 If the gauge does not respond as described, blue/white ohms ohms
15 Installation is the reverse of removal. Make
sure the reed valve and housing are clean and remove the handlebar front cover (see Chap-
correctly fitted. Tighten the cover bolts to the ter 9). Check the wiring between the sensor Replacement
torque setting specified at the beginning of connector and the gauge connectors on the
back of the instrument cluster for continuity, Warning: Refer to the precautions
the Chapter.
and check for continuity to earth in the green A given in Section 1 before starting
wire, referring to electrical system testing and work.
12 Fuel gauge and level sensor 7 The fuel gauge is part of the instrument
the wiring diagrams Chapter 10. If that is good
check for voltage at the black/brown wire to cluster and is covered in Chapter 10.

WH the gauge. If the wiring is good the gauge is

faulty.
8 To replace the sensor, remove the storage
compartment and the body cover (see Chap-
5 If the gauge and wiring are good, remove ter 9).
Check 9 Trace the wiring from the sensor and
the level sensor from the tank (Steps 8 to 10).
1 The circuit consists of the level sensor disconnect it at the connector (see illustration
Check that no fuel has entered the float due to
12.2). Free the wiring from any ties or guides
and feed it back to the sensor, noting its
routing.
10 Turn the sensor retainer anti-clockwise
and remove it, noting how it locates.
Carefully manoeuvre the sensor out of the
tank, taking care not to snag the float arm.
Discard the sealing-ring as a new one must be
used.
11 Fit anew sealing-ring onto the tank. Fit the
sensor into the tank, aligning the tab with the

pe A
groove. Fit the retainer and turn it clockwise to
\ lock it so that the arrow and mark are aligned
12.2 Fuel lev el sensor (arrowed)
(see illustration).
12.11 Align the retainer so when locked the 12 Install the body cover and storage
arrow aligns with the mark compartment (see Section 2),
 5Be1

Chapter 5B
Fuel injection system
Contents Section number Section number
Air filter housing and air compensation chamber................ 2 Fuel pump, fuel cut-off relay and engine stop relay.............. 8
Plt Colmes cts chaent ck Bertie ak Gp he asc kaa see Chapter 1 FUEL SVStent CHECKS .,.-:aiveuPrithaursit o taltal sate eevee: ants see Chapter 1
SCAtal VICEONVENLOMs aes ite mela ea tee hohekicas CoML ew entle 11 General information and precautionS.............. eee eeaeeee 1
EICcrOnicg GOmrolUnit(EGU)M es aca: salves os ue cs see Chapter 6 Idle "speed CHECK Mi a achat eect tea stn. wanes Seeds see Chapter 1
Exialisuov Stoners ermrinas pees SAG. tread Kes oe wic assem cls 9 FOMITIOMMSVSTSM ror ycactrins, sock, Soe Peart Th Aiur aPeofteieycesamere™ see Chapter 6
Rucheaugerand |6vel SONSOn- = oe se. ack sess ede e detec et 10 Pulse secondary air (PAIR) system. .............00- see Chapter 5A
Fuel injection and engine management system components ...... 5 ThrOttle! DOG Yi Fs cs kate aiara oe erigg Soe sete" lin eyP rie ate age 6
Buckinjectlon system deseriptioness f.k Mas icia kc. es ec ce 3 Throttle cable check and adjustment...............- see Chapter 1
Fuel injection system fault diagnosis................00ee cee 4 Throttle cable removal and installation.............. see Chapter 5A
FDGEH (ORES TaN Gk I A Gia cy8 a eg ee Pe vi

Degrees of difficulty
x Fairly difficult, SS Difficult, suitable SN
SN“~
Easy, suitable for AS
Fairly easy, suitable Very difficult,
s
novice with little .
experience ~
for beginner with
some experience x<
suitable for competent BY
DIY mechanic x
for experienced DIY &
mechanic x suitable for expert
DIY or professional

Specifications
Fuel
Grade Unleaded. Minimum 91 RON (Research Octane Number)
BUCH PANG AIGCILV Rete htoa det natant, wip bin cnccees. 5 Rata ag art ayer see Chapter 1

Fuel injection system

Throttle body ID number
2005 to 2008 SH models and all PS models
Me EC CNCIMES este cee alete win tech wvincstsee so qaleMeaMaymmmatel cdyan ng.nes GQM1A
ASO IGG CN GINGS erty 1-aesc a ceeekAieusisrs wisgs < anette eae a)cuir epsttar se GQM2A
2009-on SH models
NC ICCLCNGIMES tte Stes = Sicctvcotrettee oe tic’ stavemtine we aelishadele teu GQM8A
SOMES Teel pice Gc ierioe Se bor Opa (er meee tol Og gear omar cae GQM9A
Pantheon models
AZENCCIONGINGS 4 rete a 8 av ow sin ctad fi'ee ue cartounie ciate nyuietd tat GQMo
TSOIOGISMINESiery cxctacearetataraeyeReysym see ste aan sate d's)CeTapns Fo.» GQNO
S-wing models
GEG TEIICIMOS eens rece vocrte rete sa rte alataca ew evant a dim cha aietoy GQM4A
VeTon exe tetale nately nach ot)cap a Ptah 2 CMUaren eioReReena P-lciae) peraes recirncot GQM5A
MIGIS SOU ae ei aemiaca trate ree «2 cusicials sock nt cdl alaiyid lemitsnesiacaie ety see Chapter 1
Fuel pressure at specified idle speed... 1... 1. cece ee etree e eens 43 psi (3.0 Bar)
Minimum fuel flow rate
SEAN MIGCCISe ete a ued letstats, one oe, o.dunw aN ahsameily alafalety re 22 cc every 10 seconds
Pantheon and S-wing models .....-.. 0c cece eee cnet eee eees 25 cc every 10 seconds

Fuel injection system test data

Note: Values given are only accurate at 20°C (68°F)
Engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor resistance ..........++.. 2.3 to 2.6 K-ohms
Fuel injector resistance. 0.6.66. c cece ete eee eee eens 11.1 to 12.3 ohms

Torque settings
Exhaust downpipe nuts ....... 020. eee cece eee eee eens 29 Nm
Fuel pump nuts (SH and PS models). .......--++0 eee0eeeee 12 Nm
Fuel pump retainer (Pantheon and S-wing TOGEIS) Mate s sine
wesc ated 50 Nm
OXYGEN SENSOF ys er Cee eee cen eee ere ee eet 44 Nm
SHA ole aleliG te alge: eesea weicanes cede Mycota OPRothe ewe ieee a 49 Nm
5Be2 Fuel injection system

part with a new one. Keep in mind that most Always perform service procedures in a
1 General information and electronic parts, once purchased, cannot well-ventilated area to prevent a build-up of
precautions be returned. To avoid unnecessary expense, fumes.
make very sure the faulty component has been Never work in a building containing a gas
positively identified before buying a new part. appliance with a pilot light, or any other form
of naked flame. Ensure that there are no naked
General information Precautions light bulbs or any sources of flame or sparks
Warning: Petrol (gasoline) is nearby.
The fuel supply system consists of the fuel
extremely flammable, so take extra Do not smoke (or allow anyone else to
tank with internal and integral fuel pump, filter,
precautions when you work on smoke) while in the vicinity of petrol (gasoline)
pressure regulator and level sensor, the fuel
any part of the fuel system. Always remove or of components containing it. Remember
hose, the injector, the throttle body, and the
the battery (see Chapter 10). Don’t smoke the possible presence of vapour from these
throttle cable. The fuel pump is switched on
or allow open flames or bare light bulbs sources and move well clear before smoking.
and off with the engine via a relay. Idle speed
near the work area, and don’t work in a Check all electrical equipment belonging to
and fast idle speed for cold starting are set
garage where a natural gas-type appliance the house, garage or workshop where work is
automatically by the electronic control unit is present. If you spill any fuel on your skin, being undertaken (see the Safety first! section
(ECU) and the idle air control valve (IACV). rinse it off immediately with soap and water. of this manual). Remember that certain
The injection system, known as PGM-FI, When you perform any kind of work on the electrical appliances such as drills, cutters
supplies fuel and air to the engine via a single fuel system, wear safety glasses and have a etc, create sparks in the normal course of
throttle body with one injector. The injector is fire extinguisher suitable for a class B type operation and must not be used near petrol
operated by the ECU using the information fire (flammable liquids) on hand. (gasoline) or any component containing it.
obtained from the various sensors it monitors. With the fuel injection system, some residual Again, remember the possible presence of
The ECU and throttle body are an integrated pressure will remain in the fuel feed hose and fumes before using electrical equipment.
assembly along with the manifold absolute injector after the engine has been stopped. Always mop up any spilt fuel and safely
pressure (MAP) sensor, intake air temperature Before disconnecting the fuel hose, ensure the dispose of the rag used.
(IAT) sensor and throttle position (TP) sensor, ignition is switched OFF and make sure you Any stored fuel that is drained off during
and the IACV. Refer to Section 3 for more have some clean rag to catch and mop up the servicing work must be kept in sealed
information on the operation of the fuel fuel. It is vital that no dirt or debris is allowed to containers that are suitable for holding petrol
injection system. enter any part of the system while a fuel hose (gasoline), and clearly marked as such; the
All models have a fuel gauge incorporated is disconnected. Any foreign matter in the fuel containers themselves should be kept in a
in the instrument cluster, actuated by the level system components could result in injector safe place. Note that this last point applies
sensor inside the fuel tank. damage or malfunction. Ensure the ignition equally to the fuel tank if it is removed from
Note: /ndividual engine management is switched OFF before disconnecting or the machine; also remember to keep its filler
system components can be checked but not reconnecting any fuel injection system wiring cap closed at all times.
repaired. If system troubles occur, and the connector. If a connector is disconnected or Read the Safety first! section of this manual
faulty component can be isolated, the only cure reconnected with the ignition switched ON, the carefully before starting work.
for the problem in most cases is to replace the engine control unit (ECU) may be damaged.
2. Air filter housing and air
compensation chamber
Whi
Air filter housing -
SH and PS models
Removal
1 Slacken the clamp securing the air duct
to the compensation chamber, then undo
the screws securing the filter housing to the
rear hugger and compensation chamber (see
2.1 Slacken the clamp screw (A) and undo illustration).
the screws (B) 2 Detach the drain hose from its union on the
rear of the housing.
3 Unscrew the bolts securing the housing to
the transmission casing and manoeuvre the
housing away, noting how it fits, and detaching
the crankcase breather hose from its union
and releasing the starter motor cable from its
guide when accessible (see illustrations).
Installation
4 Installation is the reverse of removal.

Air filter housing - Pantheon

and S-wing models

2.3b . . release the wiring from its clip on

w" Removal
. . and detach the crankcase 5 Remove the storage
the front mount (arrow)... compartment (see
breather hose
Chapter 9).
 Fuel injection system 5Be3

ei

2.6 SI acken the duct clamp (arrowed)

6 Slacken the clamp securing the air duct to

the throttle body (see illustration).
7 Release the speed sensor wire from its
guide on the underside of the housing.
8 Undo the screw securing the filter housing
to the rear hugger.
9 Unscrew the bolts’securing the air filter
housing to the transmission casing and
manoeuvre the housing away, noting how it
fits, and detaching the crankcase breather
hose from its union when accessible.
Installation
sci oe EN Se ere
10 installation is the reverse of removal.
2.13 Detach the hose guide, noting how it 2.14 Air intake duct clamp screw
Air compensation chamber - locates (arrowed)
SH and PS models
@ Throttle position (TP) sensor — informs the appropriate for cold starting, warm up, idle,
Removal ECU of the throttle position, and the rate of cruising, and acceleration.
11 Remove the storage compartment (see throttle opening or closing. 4 Cold starting and warm up idle speeds are
Chapter 9). @ Engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor - controlled automatically by the ECU and the
12 Release the clamp and detach the informs the ECU of engine temperature. It idle air control valve (IACV). .
PAIR system air hose from the union on the also actuates the temperature gauge (see
chamber (see illustration). Chapter 4). 4 Fuel injection system fault &
13 Unscrew the fuel hose guide bolt and @ Manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor diagnosis Ss
detach the guide (see illustration). — informs the ECU of the engine load by
~
14 Slacken the clamps securing the chamber monitoring the pressure in the throttle body
to the air filter housing (see illustration 2.1) air intake duct.
1 When the ignition is switched on the
and air intake rubber on the throttle body (see @ Intake air temperature (IAT) sensor —
malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) in the
illustration). informs the ECU of the temperature of the
instrument cluster will come on for a few
15 Undo the screw and the bolt and air entering the throttle body. seconds, then go out. When the engine is
manoeuvre the chamber out. @ Ignition pulse generator coil — informs started the fuel injection system automatically
Installation the ECU of engine speed and crankshaft performs a self-diagnosis check. If all is good
position (see Chapter 6). the MIL remains off. If there is an abnormality in
16 Installation is the reverse of removal.
'@ Speed sensor —- informs the ECU of the any of the readings obtained from any sensor,
speed of the motorcycle (see Chapter 10). the ECU enters its back-up mode. If the ECU
~3 Fuel injection system @ Lean angle sensor — stops the engine if the enters this back-up mode while performing
description bike falls over. its self-diagnosis check on start-up the MIL
@ Oxygen sensor — informs the ECU of the will flash. If it enters this back-up mode while
oxygen content of the exhaust gases. riding the MIL will come on. In back-up mode
1 All models covered in this Chapter are 3 All the information from the sensors the ECU ignores the abnormal sensor signal,
equipped with Honda’s programmed fuel is analysed by the ECU, and from that it and assumes a pre-programmed value which
injection (PGM-Fl) system. It is controlled by determines the appropriate ignition and may, depending on the sensor in question
an electronic control unit (ECU) that operates fuelling requirements of the engine. The ECU and the fault detected, allow the engine to
both the injection and ignition systems. controls the fuel injector by varying its pulse continue running (albeit at reduced efficiency).
2 The engine control unit (ECU) monitors width — the length of time the injector is Otherwise the engine will stop, or will not be
signals from the following sensors: held open — to provide more or less fuel, as able to be restarted once it has been stopped.
5Be4 Fuel injection system

In each case the relevant fault code will be

stored in the ECU memory. The fault can be
identified by reading the fault code or codes
as follows.
2 If the engine can be started, place the
motorcycle on its centrestand then start the
engine and allow it to idle. Whilst the engine
is idling, observe the MIL on the instrument
cluster, and go to Step 5.
3 If the engine cannot be started, place
the motorcycle on its centrestand. Turn the
engine over on the starter motor for more
then ten seconds and observe the MIL on the
instrument cluster, and go to Step 5. 4.4a Data link connector (arrowed) - SH 4.4b Data link connector (arrowed) -
4 Alternatively, and to check for any stored and PS models Pantheon and S-wing models
fault codes even though the MIL has not
illuminated, on SH and PS models remove connectors and a piece of wire joining them, 0 — 9), there will be a number of short flashes
the battery access panel in the floor, and on between the brown and green wire terminals equivalent to the code being displayed. For
Pantheon and S-wing models remove the in the connector. Make sure the kill switch is example, two:long (1.3 sec) flashes followed by
seat, then remove the battery access panel in in the RUN position then turn the ignition ON three short (0.5 sec) flashes indicates the fault
the storage compartment (see Chapter 9), to and observe the warning light. If there are no code number 23. If there is more than one fault
gain access to the fuel injection system data stored fault codes, the light will come on and code, there will be a gap before the other codes
link connector (DLC), which is a capped 4-pin stay on. If there are stored fault codes, the are revealed, and the codes will be revealed
connector coming out of the wiring loom (see light will flash — go to Step 5. in order, starting with the lowest and finishing
illustrations). Ensure the ignition is switched 5 The light emits long (1.3 second) and short with the highest. Once all codes have been
OFF then remove the cap and either fit the (0.5 second) flashes to give out the fault code. revealed, the ECU will continuously run through
Honda DLC short connector (Part No. 070PZ- A long flash is used to indicate the first digit of the code(s) stored in its memory, revealing each
ZY30100, available at reasonable cost from a double digit fault code (i.e. 10 and above). If one in turn with a short gap between them. The
your dealer), or make your own using suitable a single digit fault code is being displayed (i.e. fault codes are shown in the table.

. Possible causes _

Q- no code Engine does not start Blown ignition/starter motor/fuel pump fuse
(MIL off) Faulty power supply to electronic control unit (ECU)
Faulty engine stop relay or wiring
Faulty engine stop switch/open circuit on switch earth (ground) wire
Faulty ignition switch
aulty lean fellas sensor or she

Short circuit inyes link connector or wiring

uy Hens corn! unlenc

TG oe
| Engine operates normally Faulty lean angle sensororwiring
 Fuel injection system 5Be5

Chapter 9). Check the wiring and connectors Intake air temperature (IAT)
ww
as in Step 1.
Sfi
RW’ sensor
6 Disconnect the wiring connector from the
sensor (see illustration). With the engine Check
cold, connect an ohmmeter between the 12 The IAT sensor is part of the throttle body/
Caution: Ensure the ignition is switched pink/white and green/orange wire terminals ECU assembly and can only be checked using
OFF before disconnecting/reconnecting on the sensor and measure its resistance. the Honda diagnostic test pin box.
any fuel injection system wiring connector. Compare the reading obtained to that given 13 Check the ECU wiring connector (see
If a connector is disconnected/reconnected in the Specifications, noting that the specified illustration 5.3). If it is good reset the system
with the ignition switched ON the engine value is valid at 20°C (68°F). If the resistance as described in Section 4, Step 6, then start
control unit (ECU) could be damaged. reading differs greatly from that specified, the the engine and check if the same fault code
1 If a fault is indicated in any of the system sensor is probably faulty. comes up. If it does the sensor is probably
7 If the sensor appears to be functioning faulty. If it doesn’t there was probably just a
components, first check the wiring and
correctly, check its power supply. Connect the temporary glitch in the system.
connectors between the appropriate
positive (+) lead of a voltmeter to the pink/white
component and the ECU and/or instrument Removal and installation
wire terminal in the sensor wiring connector,
cluster (refer to Electrical system fault finding 14 The IAT sensor is an integral part of the
then connect the negative (-) lead to a good
at the beginning of Chapter 10, and to the throttle body/ECU assembly and is not
earth. Turn the ignition switch ON and check
Wiring diagrams at the end of it). A continuity available separately. If the sensor is faulty, a
that a voltage of 4.75 to 5.25 volts is present. If
test of all wires will locate a break or short in complete new throttle body assembly will
it isn’t, there is a fault in the pink/white wire or
any circuit. Inspect the terminals inside the the ECU. If voltage was present, now connect have to be installed.
wiring connectors and ensure they are not the negative lead to the green/orange terminal
loose, bent or corroded. Spray the inside of of the connector and check that the same
the connectors with a proprietary electrical Speed sensor (Pantheon and
voltage is present. If it isn’t, there is a fault in
terminal cleaner before reconnection. S-wing models)
the green/orange wire or the ECU. If there is
Manifold absolute pressure voltage, the ECU is probably faulty. Check
(MAP) sensor Removal and installation 15 Check the wiring and connectors as in
Warning: The engine must be Step 1, checking for continuity in the pink
Check and yellow/red wires to the instrument cluster,
completely cool before carrying
2 The MAP sensor is part of the throttle body/ out this procedure. in the pink wire to the ECU on Pantheon
ECU assembly and can only be checked using 8 Refer to Chapter 4, Section 4. models, and in the green/black wire to earth
the Honda diagnostic test pin box. — remove the handlebar front cover to access
3 Check the ECU wiring connector (see Throttle position (TP) sensor the instrument cluster wiring connector (see
illustration). If it is good reset the system Check Chapter 9).
as described in Section 4, Step 6, then start 16 Unscrew the sensor cover bolts and
9 The TP sensor is part of the throttle body/ remove the cover (see illustration 5.20).
the engine and check if the same fault code
ECU assembly and can only be checked using Disconnect the wiring connector from the
comes up. If it does the sensor is probably
the Honda diagnostic test pin box. sensor. Check the connector for loose
faulty. If it doesn’t there was probably just a
10 Check the ECU wiring connector (see terminals. With the ignition switch ON, check
temporary glitch in the system.
illustration 5.3). If it is good reset the system the input voltage between the yellow/red (+)
Removal and installation as described in Section 4, Step 6, then start and green/black (-) wire terminals on the loom
4 The MAP sensor is an integral part of the engine and check if the same fault code
side of the connector — there should be 4.75
the throttle body/ECU assembly and is not comes up. If it does the sensor is probably
to 5.25 volts. If there is no voltage, and the
_ available separately. If the sensor is faulty, a faulty. If it doesn’t there was probably just a
wiring is good, the problem could be in the
complete new throttle body assembly will temporary glitch in the system.
instrument cluster — refer to Chapter 10.
have to be installed. Removal and installation 17 lf there is voltage, reconnect the wiring
11 The TP sensor is an integral part of connector, then place the machine on its
Engine coolant temperature
the throttle body/ECU assembly and is not centrestand so the rear wheel is off the ground.
(ECT) sensor
available separately. If the sensor is faulty, a Connect a voltmeter between the pink (+) and
Check complete new throttle body assembly will green/black (-) wire terminals —- make sure the
5 Remove the storage compartment (see have to be installed. probes make good contact when inserted into
the connector. With the ignition switch ON,
turn the rear wheel by hand and check that a
fluctuating voltage reading between 0 and 5
volts is obtained. If no reading is obtained, the
speed sensor is faulty and must be replaced
with a new one (see Steps 22 to 25).
18 lf all is good, refer to Chapter 10 and
check the instrument cluster power supply
and for continuity to earth in the green/black
wire from the instrument cluster. If they are
good the printed circuit board (PCB) could be
faulty.
Removal and installation
5.6 ECT sensor wiring connector 19 The speed sensor is mounted on the
securely locked in place and no wires are (arrowed) top of the transmission casing next to the
loose left-hand rear shock absorber the crankcase.
5Be6 Fuel injection system

5.20 Spee d sensor cover bolts (A), sensor 5.25a Disconnect the wiring connector 5.25b Checking injector resistance
mounting bolt (B) from the injector

20 Unscrew the sensor cover bolts and and discard it. Plug the sensor orifice with Fuel injector
remove the cover (see illustration). clean rag to prevent anything falling into the Warning: Refer to the precautions
21 Disconnect the wiring connector from the engine. given in Section 1 before starting
sensor. 23 Install the sensor using a new O-ring work.
22 Unscrew the sensor mounting bolt and smeared with clean oil. Make sure the wiring Check
remove the sensor. Remove the O-ring is secure, then fit the cover. 24 Remove the storage compartment (see
Chapter 9). Check the wiring and connectors
as in Step 1.
25 Disconnect the wiring connector from
the injector (see illustration). Connect an
ohmmeter between the terminals and measure
the resistance (see illustration). Compare the
reading to that given in the Specifications. Also
check that there is no continuity to earth on
the black/white wire terminal on the injector.
If the resistance of the injector differs greatly
from that specified, or there is continuity to
earth, a new injector should be fitted.
26 Next check for battery voltage at the black/ ©
5.29b ... then detach the fuel hose white wire terminal in the wiring connector
with the ignition ON and the kill switch set to
RUN. If there is no voltage, check the other
components in the power circuit and the wiring
and connectors between them, referring to the
wiring diagrams at the end of Chapter 10.
Removal
27 Remove the storage compartment (see
Chapter 9).
28 Disconnect the wiring connector from the
injector (see illustration 5.25a).
29 Have some rag to hand to catch residual
fuel. Unscrew the fuel supply hose holder bolts
and remove the holder, then detach the hose
from the top of the injector (see illustrations).
30 Remove the injector retaining plate, noting
5.30a Remove the retainer... how it locates (see illustration). Carefully
lift off the injector (see illustration). Discard
the O-rings as new ones must be used (see
illustration 5.31).
Installation
31 Fit new O-rings lubricated with clean
engine oil onto the injector - the orange O-ring
fits into the bottom groove and the black one
into the top (see illustration).
32 Ease the injector into the intake duct,
making sure the O-ring does not get dislodged,
then fit the retaining plate, making sure it locates
correctly (see illustrations 5.30b and a).
33 Fit the fuel hose onto the top of the
ea
5.31 Fit new O-rings (arrowed) - orange injector, making sure the O-ring does not get
5.33 Fit the fuel hose holder and bolts
(A), black (B) dislodged (see illustration 5.29b). Fit the
holder and tighten its bolts (see illustration).
 Fuel injection system 5Be7

34 Connect the wiring connector (see

illustration 5.25a).
35 Run the engine and check there are no
leaks from the injector that the fuel system is
working correctly before taking the machine
out on the road.
Oxygen sensor
Check
36 The operation of the oxygen sensor
itself can only be checked using the Honda
diagnostic test pin box.
37 Refer to Step 40 for access and check
the wiring and connectors as in Step 1. If all is 5.40a Oxygen sensor cover bolts 5.40b Oxygen sensor cover bolts
good reset the system as described in Section (arrowed) - SH and PS models (arrowed) — Pantheon and S-wing models
4, Step 6, then start the engine and check if
the same fault code comes up. If it does the
sensor is probably faulty. If it doesn’t there was
probably just a temporary glitch in the system.
38 To check the sensor heater, disconnect the
sensor wiring connector (see Step 40). Connect
an ohmmeter between the two white wire
terminals on the sensor side of the connector
and check that the resistance is below 13 ohms.
Also check that there is no continuity to earth
(ground) in each white wire. If the resistance is
not as specified or if there is continuity to earth,
replace the sensor with a new one.
a
39 Next check for battery voltage between
the black/white (+) wire terminal and earth 5.40c Release the wiring and connector, 5.41 Unscrew the sensor (arrowed)
with the ignition ON. If there is no voltage, and disconnect it
check the other components in the power Installation just a temporary glitch in the system. If it does
circuit and the wiring and connectors between have the system tested by a Honda dealer.
42 Installation is the reverse of removal. Fit
them, referring to the wiring diagrams at the
the sensor using a new sealing washer and Removal and installation
end of Chapter 10.
tighten it to the torque setting specified at the 45 The IACV is an integral part of the throttle
Removal beginning of the Chapter. body/ECU assembly and is not available
Note: The oxygen sensor is delicate and will
Idle air control valve (IACV) separately. If the sensor is faulty, a complete new
not work if it is dropped or knocked, or if any
Check throttle body assembly will have to be installed.
cleaning materials are used on it. Ensure the
exhaust system is cold before proceeding. 43 The IACV is part of the throttle body/ECU Lean angle sensor
40 Unscrew the sensor cover bolts and assembly. Turn the ignition ON and check that
remove the cover (see illustrations). Free the the valve makes a beeping sound. Check — 2005 to 2008 SH models, all
sensor wiring and connector from its clips and 44 Check the ECU wiring connector (see PS, Pantheon and S-wing models
disconnect it (see illustration). illustration 5.3). If it is good reset the system 46 Position the scooter on its centrestand
41 Unscrew and remove the sensor (see as described in Section 4, Step 6, then start stand so it is level. Remove the body cover
illustration). Discard the sealing washer — a the engine and check if the same fault code (see Chapter 9) — the sensor is mounted at the
new one must be used. comes up. If it doesn’t there was probably back of the scooter (see illustrations). On SH

Jf e
“y

5.46a Lean angle sensor (A), its wiring connector (B) and 5.46b Lean angle sensor (A), its wiring connector (B) and
mounting screws (C) - PS models mounting screws (C) - S-wing models
5Be8 Fuel injection system

models unscrew the three bolts securing the 49 If the relay does not click when the lean 56 On PS, Pantheon and S-wing models
bracket over the sensor and remove it. angle sensor is tilted the sensor is faulty. If the disconnect the lean angle sensor wiring connector.
47 With the ignition switch ON and the kill relay does not click at all it could be faulty. Undo the screws and remove the sensor. Note
switch set to run, connect the negative (-) Check — 2009-on SH models the collars in the mounting grommets.
lead of a voltmeter to the green wire terminal Installation
of the lean angle sensor connector (with 50 Remove the body cover (see Chapter 9).
Check the wiring and connectors as in Step 1. 57 Installation is the reverse of removal. Make
the connector still connected). Connect the
51 Disconnect the sensor wiring connector. sure the collars are in place and the sensor is
voltmeter positive (+) lead first to the black
wire terminal and check that battery voltage 52 Connect the positive (+) lead of a voltmeter fitted with its UP mark facing upwards.
to the yellow/red wire terminal in the sensor
(approximately 12 volts) is present, then
connect it to the red/orange wire terminal wiring connector, then connect the negative (-)
lead to a good earth. Turn the ignition switch ON
6 Throttlebody == = &
and check that between 0 to 1 volt is present.
and check that a voltage of 4.75 to 5.25 volts is
Turn the ignition OFF. If there is no voltage
present. If it isn’t, there is a fault in the yellow/
check the green wire for continuity to earth —
red wire or the ECU. If voltage was present, now
there should be continuity. If battery voltage Warning: Refer to the precautions
connect the negative lead to the green/orange
was not present also check the black wire given in Section 1 before starting
terminal of the connector and check that the
and connectors between the sensor and the work,
same voltage is present. If it isn’t, there is a fault
fusebox, referring to the wiring diagrams at
in the green/orange wire or the ECU. If there is Removal:
the end of Chapter 10. Otherwise check the
voltage, the ECU is probably faulty.
red/orange wire to the engine stop relay, then 1 On SH and PS models remove the air
check the relay itself (Steps 58 to 60). Removal compensation chamber (see Section 2). On
48 Undo the sensor mounting screws and 53 Remove the body cover (see Chapter 9) Pantheon and S-wing models remove the air
displace the sensor. Hold the sensor horizontal. — the sensor is mounted at the back of the filter housing (see Section 2).
Set the kill switch to RUN and switch the scooter (see illustration 5.46a). 2 Release the ECU wiring connector clamp and
ignition ON; the engine stop relay (next to 54 On 2005 to 2008 SH models unscrew disconnect the connector (see illustration).
the sensor) should click, indicating the power the three bolts securing the bracket over 3 Slacken the bottom nut on the cable elbow
supply is closed (on). Slowly tilt the sensor the sensor and remove it. Disconnect the and free the cable from the bracket, noting
to the left whilst listening to the engine stop lean angle sensor wiring connector. Undo how it locates (see illustrations). Free the
relay; once the sensor reaches an angle of the screws and remove the sensor. Note the cable end from the pulley on the throttle body
approximately 60° the relay should be heard to collars in the mounting grommets. (see illustration).
click, indicating the power supply is open (off). 55 On 2009-on SH models displace the fuel Caution: Do not snap the throttle from fully
Switch the ignition OFF and return the sensor pump relay and disconnect the licence plate open to fully closed once the cable has
to the horizontal, then switch the ignition back light wiring connector. Disconnect the lean been disconnected because this can lead
ON again (engine stop relay should click again) angle sensor wiring connector. Unscrew the to engine idle speed problems. ;
and tilt the sensor to the right. The engine stop three bolts and remove the bracket. Undo 4 Fully slacken the screws on the intake duct
relay should be heard to click again once the the screws and remove the sensor. Note the joint piece (see illustration). Ease the throttle
sensor reaches an angle of around 60°. collars in the mounting grommets. body assembly and joint piece off the intake

a i ‘

‘ 2 y ;
} atl

6.2 Release the clamp and disconnect the 6.3b ... then free the cable elbow from
wiring connector
the bracket...

. . and detach the end from the

6.4b ... and remove the throttle body
pulley
assembly
 Fuel injection system 5Be9

6.5 Remove the air intake rubber (A) and intake duct joint piece 6.8 Make sure the tabs locate around the lug (arrow)
(B) if required
duct, noting that it may be quite a tight fit, and multi-purpose grease and fit it into the pulley. pressure present in the fuel system by reading
remove it (see illustration). Locate the elbow in the bracket, then set the the gauge, then turn the engine off. Compare
Caution: Tape over or stuff clean rag into nuts so the cable freeplay is as specified (see the reading obtained to that given in the
the intake duct after removing the throttle Chapter 1). Specifications.
body assembly to prevent anything from 12 Connect and lock the ECU wiring 5 lf the fuel pressure is higher than specified,
falling in. connector (see illustrations 6.2 and 5.3). the fuel pump is faulty and must be replaced
5 If the air intake rubber shows signs of 13 On SH and PS models install the air with a new one.
cracking or deterioration a new one must be compensation chamber (see Section 2). On 6 If the fuel pressure is lower than specified,
fitted. Note its orientation and how the clamps Pantheon and S-wing models install the air likely Causes are.
locate and are orientated before slackening filter housing (See Section 2). @ Leaking fuel hose union
the clamp and removing it (see illustration). If @ Blocked fuel strainer
required also remove the intake duct joint piece 7 Fuel pressure check @ Faulty fuel pump
by fully undoing its screws and spreading it so If necessary remove the fuel pump (see
it clears the lug on the throttle body. Section 8) and clean the strainer. If the strainer
is clean and there are no leaks evident a new
6 If required unscrew the intake duct bolts
pump assembly must be installed — individual
and remove the duct and the joint plate, noting Warning: Refer to the precautions components are not available.
which way round it fits, from the cylinder given in Section 1 before starting 7 On completion, disconnect the battery
head. Discard the O-rings — new ones must be work. negative (-) lead again. Remove the fuel gauge
used. Note: A pressure gauge is required for this assembly, being prepared to catch the residual
Caution: The throttle body assembly must check. Honda specify the use of their gauge fuel. Fit a new hose retainer into the end of the
be treated as a sealed unit. NEVER loosen (Pt. No. 07406-0040003) along with an hose, making sure it clicks into place (see
any of the white-painted nuts/bolts/screws adapter and hose (part Nos. O7ZAJ-S5A0110 illustration 8.15a). Push the hose fully onto
on the assembly as these are pre-set at the and 07ZAJ-S5A0120), that fit between the fuel the pump union, again until it clicks into place
factory. hose and the fuel pump. (see illustration 8.15b) — check it is secure by
1 On SH and PS models remove the storage _ trying to pull it off. Relocate the rubber sealing
Installation compartment, on Pantheon models remove ring in the end of the hose and seat the tab on
7 If the intake duct was removed fit new the centre cover, and on S-wing models the top of the union (see illustration 8.8a).
O-rings smeared with oil into the grooves in remove the front inner cover (see Chapter 9). 8 Reconnect the battery then start the engine
the joint plate and the duct, and fit the plate Disconnect the battery negative (-) terminal and check that there is no sign of fuel leakage.
with its tab on the right-hand side. (see Chapter 10). If all is well, install the body panels (see
8 If the intake duct joint piece was removed 2 Lift the rubber seal tab off the top of the fuel Chapter 9).
make sure it is fitted with the THROT BODY hose union on the fuel pump and pull it away
mark on the throttle body side and that the from the hose so the sealing ring section is 8 Fuel pump, fuel cut-off relay S
tabs locate around the lug on the intake (see clear of it, and seat the ring around the top of
and engine stop relay SN
EN
illustration), and the hole locates over the peg the union to keep it clear (see illustration 8.8a).
(see illustration 6.5). Also fit the air intake On SH and PS models release the fuel hose
rubber if removed. from its clip (see illustration 8.8b). Place some

A
9 Remove the tape/plug from the intake duct. rag around the fuel hose. Press in the tabs on Warning: Refer to the precautions
Lubricate the inside of the joint piece with a the fuel hose retainer and draw the hose off given in Section 1 before starting
light smear of engine oil to aid installation. the union (see illustration 8.8c). Remove the work.
10 Fit the throttle body assembly onto the retainer from the union (see illustration 8.8d) —
intake duct, aligning and locating the tabs on Honda specify to use a new one. Fuel pump
each side of the lug, until it is fully engaged 3 Fit the gauge hose and adapter between
the fuel supply hose and fuel pump. Check
(see illustration 6.4b). Tighten the screws
4 Connect the battery negative (-) lead. 1 The fuel pump is fitted into the fuel tank.
(see illustration 6.4a).
Start the engine and allow it to idle. Note the The fuel pump runs for a few seconds when
411 Lubricate the throttle cable end with
5Be10 Fuel injection system

8.3a Disconnecting the pump wiring 8.3b Fuel pump wiring connector 8.8a Lift and displace the sealing ring as
connector - SH and PS models (arrowed) - Pantheon and S-wing models described
the ignition is switched ON to pressurise the 5 If no reading is obtained, check the fuel pump orifice as it is removed. Siphon pumps
fuel system, and then cuts out until the engine pump circuit wiring for continuity and make are cheaply available at most car parts and
is started. Check that it does this. If the pump sure all the connectors are free from corrosion accessories stores. Make sure you store the
is thought to be faulty, first check the main and are securely connected. Repair/replace fuel in a suitable sealable container, and refer
fuse and the fuel pump fuse (see Chapter 10). the wiring as necessary and clean the to the precautions and warnings given in
If they are OK proceed as follows. connectors using electrical contact cleaner. If Section 7 of this Chapter.
2 On SH and PS models remove the storage this fails to reveal the fault, check the following 6 On SH and PS models remove the storage
compartment, on Pantheon models remove components. compartment, on Pantheon and S-wing
the centre cover, and on S-wing models @ Engine stop switch (see Chapter 10) models remove the floor covers (see Chapter
remove the front inner cover (see Chapter 9). @ Fuel cut-off relay (see Steps 18 to 20) 9). Disconnect the battery negative (-) terminal
3 Ensure the ignition is switched OFF then @ Lean angle sensor (see Section 5) (see Chapter 10).
disconnect the fuel pump wiring connector @ Engine stop relay (see Steps 24 to 26) 7 Disconnect the fuel pump wiring connector
(see illustrations). Connect the positive (+)
@ Engine control unit (ECU) (see Chapter 6) (see illustration 8.3a or b).
lead of a voltmeter to the brown wire terminal
Removal 8 Lift the rubber seal tab off the top of the
on the loom side of the connector and the
fuel hose union on the fuel pump and pull it
negative (—) lead to the green wire terminal. Note: On SH and PS models the level of the
away from the hose so the sealing ring section
Switch the ignition ON whilst noting the fuel pump mounting is below that of the top
reading obtained on the meter. is clear of it, and seat the ring around the top
of the fuel tank — before removing the pump
4 If battery voltage is present for a few of the union to keep it clear (see illustration).
it is essential to check the level of the fuel in
seconds, the fuel pump circuit is operating On SH and PS models release the fuel hose
the tank via the filler cap, and if the tank is
correctly and the fuel pump itself is faulty and from its clip (see illustration). Place some rag
more than 1/3 full you must siphon out the
must be replaced with a new one. around the fuel hose. Press in the tabs on the
excess fuel to prevent it coming out of the fuel hose retainer and draw the hose off the
union (see illustration). Remove the retainer
from the union (see illustration) - Honda
specify to use a new one.
9 On SH and PS models unscrew the nuts
and remove the pump retaining plate (see
illustration). Carefully lift the pump out of the
tank, taking care not to snag the level sensor float
(see illustration 8.13b). Remove the rubber seal
from the pump or tank and discard it — a new one
must be used (see illustration 8.13a).
10 On Pantheon and S-wing models unscrew
the fuel tank mounting bolts, then tilt the
tank to the left and place a support under
the right-hand side so the top of the pump is
off clear of the frame (see illustration). Unscrew

= ed

8.8d Remove the retainer from the union 8.9 Unscrew the nuts (arrowed) and 8.10a Unscrew the bolts (arrowed) on
remove the plate
each side
 Fuel injection system 5Be11

8.10b Unscrew the pump retainer 8.12 Check for any debris caught in the 8.13a Fit the new seal...
(arrowed) strainer (arrowed)

the pump retainer — you will need to use large plate are all evenly seated, then fit the nuts and of the Chapter if the correct tools are available
grips or to drift it round to initially slacken it tighten them finger-tight (see illustration 8.9). (Honda specify an adapter part No. Miller 6856
(see illustration). Note the washer fitted in Now tighten the nuts evenly and a little at a time that can be used in conjunction with a socket),
the retainer. Carefully lift the pump out of the in the sequence shown to the torque setting or to a similar tightness using a pair of grips.
tank, taking care not to snag the level sensor specified at the beginning of the Chapter. Now slacken the retainer by one full turn, then
float. Remove the rubber seal and discard it — 14 On Pantheon and S-wing models make an tighten it again to the same torque setting or
a new one must be used. alignment mark on the fuel tank of the starting tightness. Honda say that the important thing
11 The pump comes as a complete assembly point of the thread for the fuel pump retainer. is that the retainer has tightened by more
and no individual components are available. Now make another mark on the tank 80° anti- than three full turns so the mark made on the
Installation clockwise from the first mark. Also make a outside of the retainer passes that made 80°
12 Make sure the fuel strainer is clean (see mark on the outside of the retainer of the anti-clockwise from the first mark on the tank.
illustration). Clean the mating surfaces of the starting point of the thread on its inside. Smear The important thing is that there is no leakage
top of the pump and the fuel tank. clean engine oil onto the upper lip of the new after running the engine and riding the scooter
13 On SH and PS models apply a smear of sealing ring, then fit the ring into the pump with a full tank. If there is, tighten the retainer
clean engine oil to the new rubber seal then orifice in the tank, making sure the lip sits flat some more. Relocate the fuel tank and tighten
fit it onto the tank (see illustration). Fit the on the rim. Fit the pump into the tank, aligning its bolts (see illustration 8.10a).
pump into the tank (see illustration). Fit the the tab with that on the tank, and press it into 15 Fit a new hose retainer into the end of the
retainer plate, aligning the triangular mark with the seal, making sure the seal lip remains flat hose, making sure it clicks into place (see
that on the tank, and aligning the pump so its on the rim. Make sure the washer is seated in illustration). Push the hose fully onto the
tabs locate in the cut-outs in the plate (see the retainer, then fit the retainer and tighten it pump union, again until it clicks into place
illustrations). Check that the pump, seal and to the torque setting specified at the beginning (see illustration) — check it is secure by trying

8.13b ... then manoeuvre the pump into 8.13d ... aligning the marks...
the tank

Civ
Sl

. . and making sure it locates over 8.15a Fit a new retainer into the hose... 8.15b .. then push the hose onto the union
the pump tabs
 5Be12 Fuel injection system

8.22a Fuel cut-off relay (A), engine stop relay (B) - SH and P Ss
iL
8.22b Fuel cut-off relay (A), engine stop relay (B) - Pantheon and
models S-wing models
to pull it off. Relocate the rubber sealing ring Engine stop relay
in the end of the hose and seat the tab on the 9 Exhaust system
top of the union (see illustration 8.8a). Check
16 Connect the fuel pump wiring connector
(see illustration 8.3a or b).
24 Remove the relay (see below).
25 Connect an ohmmeter between the black WHC?
17 Connect the battery negative (-) terminal and black/white wire terminals on the relay.
Warning: If the engine has been
(see Chapter 10). On SH and PS models install Using a 12 volt battery and auxiliary wires,
running the exhaust system will
the storage compartment, on Pantheon and connect the battery positive (+) terminal to the
be very hot. Allow the system to
S-wing models install the floor covers (see other black wire terminal on the relay and the
cool before carrying out any work.
Chapter 9). negative (-) terminal to the red/orange wire
terminal and note the meter reading obtained. If
Removal
the relay is operating correctly there should be 1 Remove the right-hand floor side panel and
Fuel cut-off relay continuity (zero resistance) when the battery is for best access the belly panel (see Chap- -
connected and no continuity (infinite resistance) ter 9).
Check
when the battery is disconnected. If this is not 2 Unscrew the oxygen sensor cover bolts
18 Remove the relay (see below). and remove the cover (see illustration 5.40a
the case, replace the relay with a new one.
19 Connect an ohmmeter between the black/ 26 If the relay is good check for battery or b). Free the sensor wiring and connector
white and adjacent brown wire terminals on voltage at each black wire terminal in the relay from its clips and disconnect the connector
the relay. Using a 12 volt battery and auxiliary wiring connector with the ignition on. If there (see illustration 5.40c). If required unscrew
wires, connect the battery positive (+) terminal is no voltage check the wiring to the fusebox, and remove the sensor (see illustration 5.41).
to the other black/white wire terminal on and check the ignition/starter/fuel pump fuse. Discard the sealing washer — a new one must
the relay and the negative (-) terminal to the If all is good check for continuity in the red/ be used.
brown/black wire terminal and note the meter orange wire to the lean angle sensor. 3 Undo the nuts securing the downpipe to the
reading obtained. If the relay is operating exhaust port in the head (see illustration).
Removal and installation
correctly there should be continuity (zero 4 Unscrew the bolts securing the silencer,
resistance) when the battery is connected 27 On SH models remove the body cover then support the exhaust system, remove the
and no continuity (infinite resistance) when the (see Chapter 9). On Pantheon and S-wing bolts, and manoeuvre the exhaust out (see
battery is disconnected. If this is not the case, models remove the storage compartment (see illustrations).
replace the relay with a new one. Chapter 9). 5 Remove the gasket from the exhaust pipe
20 If the relay is good check for battery 28 Pull the relay off its socket. or port and discard it as a new one must be
voltage at each black/white wire terminal in 29 Installation is the reverse of removal. used (see illustration 9.6).
the relay wiring connector with the ignition on.
If there is no voltage check the wiring to the
engine stop relay, then check the relay itself
(see below). If all is good check for continuity
in the brown wire to the fuel pump and the
brown/black wire to the ECU.
Removal and illustration
21 On SH models remove the body cover
(see Chapter 9). On Pantheon and S-wing
models remove the storage compartment (see
Chapter 9).
22 Pull the relay off its socket (see
illustrations). 9.3 Undo the nuts (arrowed) 9.4a Unscrew the bolts (arrowed)...
23 Installation is the reverse of removal.
 Fuel injection system 5Be13

connector and the gauge connectors on the

back of the instrument cluster on SH and PS
models, or the instrument cluster connector on
Pantheon and S-wing models, for continuity,
and check for continuity to earth in the green/
black wire, referring to electrical system
testing and the wiring diagrams Chapter 10.
If that is good check for voltage at the black
wire to the gauge. If the wiring is good the
gauge is faulty.
5 If the gauge and wiring are good, remove the
fuel pump (see Section 8). Check that no fuel
has entered the float due to a leak, and check
9.4b ... and remove the exhaust 9.6 Fit the new gasket onto the exhaust that the arm moves up and down smoothly.
pipe 6 Connect the probes of an ohmmeter to the
specified terminals on the sensor connector as
PNR Exhaust system fixings tend 10 Fuel gauge and level oe shown in the table for your model and check
to become corroded and sensor NY the resistance of the sensor in both the FULL
seized. It is advisable to
spray them with penetrating x and EMPTY positions, on SH and PS models
for each connection (see illustrations). If the
oilbefore attempting to loosen them. readings are not as specified, ee the fuel
Check
Ff
pump assembly with a new one (See Section 8).
1 The circuit consists of the level sensor, which
Installation is an integral part of the fuel pump assembly SH and PS Full © Empty
6 Installation is the reverse of removal, in the fuel tank, and the gauge mounted in models position position
noting the following: the instrument cluster. If the instruments Green/black — | 25 to 45 400 to 700
@ Clean the exhaust port studs and lubricate malfunction first check the instrument cluster yellow/white ohms ohms f
them with a suitable copper-based grease fuse (see Chapter 10). Yellow/white |450to 750 | 450 to 750
before reassembly. 2 To check the gauge, on SH and PS -gray/black |ohms ohms
@® Clean the jointing surfaces of the exhaust models remove the storage compartment, on
Pantheon models remove the centre cover,
port and the pipe. Pantheon Full Empty
and on S-wing models remove the front
@ Use a new gasket and fit it onto the and S-wing aren position
inner cover (see Chapter 9). Disconnect the
flange of the exhaust header pipe (see models
fuel pump assembly wiring connector (see
iflustration). Green/black — |6 to 8 ohms | 265 to 275
illustration 8.3a or b).
@ Leave the nuts and bolts finger tight until 3 Connect a jumper wire between the grey/black ohms
all have been installed, then tighten the yellow/white (SH and PS models) or grey/
exhaust port nuts first, then the bolts, to the black (Pantheon and S-wing models) and Replacement
torque settings specified at the beginning green/black wire terminals on the loom side Warning: Refer to the precautions
of the Chapter. of the connector, then turn the ignition on — given in Section 1 before starting
@ Install the oxygen sensor using a new the gauge needle should move to the FULL work.
sealing washer and tighten it to the torque position. Detach the jumper wire and turn the 7 The fuel gauge is part of the instrument
setting specified at the beginning of the ignition off. cluster and is covered in Chapter 10.
Chapter. 4 \f the gauge does not respond as described, 8 The fuel level sensor is an integral part of
@ Run the engine and check that there are no remove the handlebar front cover (see Chap- the fuel pump assembly and is covered in
exhaust gas leaks. ter 9). Check the wiring between the sensor Section 8.

10.6a Checking fuel level sensor resistance in the full position . . . 10.6b ... and in the empty position
5Be14 Fuel injection system

system engine control unit (ECU) by the DO NOT use leaded or lead replacement
11 Catalytic converter oxygen sensor. petrol (gasoline) — the additives will coat the
4 The oxygen sensor contains a heating precious metals, reducing their converting
element which is controlled by the ECU. When efficiency and will eventually destroy the
the engine is cold, the ECU switches on the catalytic converter.
heating element which warms the exhaust Always keep the ignition and fuel systems
General information gases as they pass over the sensor. This well-maintained in accordance with the
1 A catalytic converter is incorporated in brings the catalytic converter quickly up to its manufacturer’s schedule — if the fuel/air
the exhaust system to minimise the level normal operating temperature and decreases mixture is suspected of being incorrect
of exhaust pollutants released into the the level of exhaust pollutants emitted whilst have it checked on an exhaust gas
atmosphere. the engine warms up. Once the engine is
analyser.
sufficiently warmed up, the ECU switches off
2 The catalytic converter consists of a If the engine develops a misfire, do not
the heating element.
canister containing a fine mesh impregnated ride the bike at all (or at least as little as
5 Refer to Section 9 for exhaust system
with a catalyst material, over which the hot possible) until the fault is cured.
removal and installation, and Section 5 for
exhaust gases pass. The catalyst speeds up DO NOT use fuel or engine oil additives —
oxygen sensor removal and installation
the oxidation of harmful carbon monoxide, these may contain substances harmful to
information.
unburned hydrocarbons and soot, effectively the catalytic converter.
reducing the quantity of harmful products Precautions DO NOT. continue to use the bike if the
released into the atmosphere via the exhaust 6 The catalytic converter is a reliable and - engine burns oil to the extent of leaving a
gases. simple device which needs no maintenance visible trail of blue smoke.
3 The catalytic converter is of the closed-loop in itself, but there are some facts of which an Remember that the catalytic converter and
type with exhaust gas oxygen content owner should be aware if the converter is to oxygen sensor are FRAGILE — do not strike
information being fed back to the fuel injection function properly for its full service life. them with tools during servicing work.
 Get

Chapter 6
Ignition system
Co ntents Section number Section number
blecironte comirolunit(ECU) ee 20: DAG idlc lies sie wis Haw ie dle 5 geIGNITION TIMING 2 .nererrs « sheet aati arent tanner eit re et eine tee ae 6
General MAONINIALON anette ee hy cde ee sc lel yc he Sate & ii Rulsetgenerator coils.= «sachs ae dase ae Gee Se ee ee 4
Ignition switch Baan ae Rees aa om eee: - ot see (Ghapter 0; “Sidestand! switch ).75/~ «2 seedeeelaietcne
tee eects see Chapter 10
REIMEOMe Olly sagtobet. Sar Rapares Veit cesitae midst alate + a ctieneckituebactetle 2 shave SW Spark: PlUGi. As eres) « «ge teias tipster
lae. calles see Chapter 1
PM IOMISVStEIMICHECKHE Liner awk oC auinapiiieenses =Aeron aola eiG eleere © 2

Degrees of difficulty
Easy, suitable for SS Fairly easy, suitable EN Fairly difficult, SS Difficult, suitable N Very difficult, EN
novice with little SS for beginner with SN suitable for competent& | for experienced DIY | suitable for expert ZW
experience | some experience | DIY mechanic NY mechanic > DIY or professional EN

Specifications
General information
SIOETARYSIIU[G) radon Cots ele oho cps eRae NPT IS eer RR Sn eae oC see Chapter 1

Pulse generator coil

RESiStanc Ome aoteaenrrMi re ne airy cna: "eon Sis eho’, sycyetgs oman m8 see text
Minimum peak voltage (See text)... 66. c eee eee eee ees 0.7 volts

Ignition coil
MVIRIGUINCIMESISLATICO saree ean «ic ereucmnmcoyer er iviean cle.acomages Csya (eliePoe)ark whe see text
Spark’plug cap resistance . 0.0.2... e ek eee ee ene ae approx 5 K-ohms
Minimum peak voltage (See text)... 2.6... e eee eee eee eee eee 100 volts min

Torque wrench setting

Timing Inspection- capa ce ole ee Ee ed
 62 Ignition system

2.2 Pull the cap off the spark plug 2.4 A typical spark gap testing tool

ignition be switched on whilst the plug or produce a spark capable of jumping at least
1 General information plug cap is being held. Shocks from the HT 6 mm. Simple ignition spark gap testing
circuit can be most unpleasant. Secondly, tools are commercially available — follow the
it is vital that the engine is not turned over manufacturer’s instructions (see illustration).
or run with the plug cap removed, and that
5 If the test results are good the entire ignition
All models are fitted with a fully the plug is soundly earthed (grounded)
system can be considered good.
transistorised electronic ignition system which, when the system is checked for sparking.
6 Ignition faults can be divided into two
due to its lack of mechanical parts, is totally The ignition system components can
be seriously damaged if the HT circuit categories, namely those where the ignition
maintenance-free. The system comprises
a trigger, pulse generator coil, electronic becomes isolated. system has failed completely, and those which
control unit (ECU) and ignition coil (refer to 1 As no means of adjustment is available, any are due to a partial failure. The likely faults are
Wiring Diagrams at the end of Chapter 10 for failure of the system can be traced to failure of listed below, starting with the most probable
details). a system component or a simple wiring fault. source. Work through the list systematically,
The ignition trigger, which is on the Of the two possibilities, the latter is by far referring to the subsequent sections for full
alternator rotor on the right-hand end of the the most likely. In the event of failure, check details of the necessary checks and tests, to
crankshaft, magnetically operates the pulse the system in a logical fashion, as described electrical system fault finding at the beginning
generator coil as the crankshaft rotates. The below.
of Chapter 10 and to the Wiring Diagrams
pulse generator coil sends a signal to the 2 Put the scooter on its centrestand, making
at the end of it. Note: Before checking the
ECU, which then supplies the ignition coil with sure the rear wheel is clear of the ground.
following items ensure that the battery is
the power necessary to produce a spark at Remove the maintenance access panel to the
fully charged and that all fuses are in good
the plug. spark plug (see Chapter 9). Pull the cap off the
condition.
The ECU incorporates an electronic spark plug (see illustration). Fit a spare spark
plug that is known to be good into the cap a) Loose, corroded or damaged wiring and
advance system controlled by signals from
the ignition trigger and pulse generator coil. and lay the plug against the cylinder head with connectors, broken or shorted wiring
Because of their nature, the individual the threads contacting it. If necessary, hold between any of the component parts of
ignition system components can be checked the spark plug with an insulated tool. the ignition system (see Chapter 10).
but not repaired. If ignition system troubles Warning: Do not remove the spark 6) Faulty HT lead or spark plug cap, faulty
occur, and the faulty component can be A plug from the engine to perform Spark plug, dirty, worn or corroded plug
isolated, the only cure for the problem is to this check - atomised fuel being electrodes, or incorrect gap between
replace the part with a new one. Keep in mind pumped out of the open spark plug hole electrodes.
that most electrical parts, once purchased, could ignite, causing severe injury! Make c) Faulty pulse generator coil or damaged
cannot be returned. To avoid unnecessary sure the plug is securely held against
trigger.
expense, make very sure the faulty component the engine - if it is not earthed when the
engine is turned over, the ignition control d) Faulty ignition coil.
has been positively identified before buying a
e) Faulty ignition switch (see Chapter 10).
replacement part. unit could be damaged.
Note that there is no provision for adjusting 3 Turn the ignition switch ON, and turn f) Faulty sidestand switch (where fitted) (see
the ignition timing. the engine over on the starter motor. If the Chapter 10).
system is in good condition a regular, fat blue g) Faulty main relay (see Chapter 10).
2 Ignition system check spark should be seen at the plug electrodes. h) Faulty engine stop relay (fuel injection
Ww
S
CN
RR
lf the spark appears thin or yellowish, or
is non-existent, further investigation is
necessary.
models — see Chapter 5B).
i) Faulty lean angle sensor (fuel injection
models — see Chapter 5B).
4 The ignition system must be able to j) Faulty electronic control unit (ECU).
Warning: The energy levels in produce a spark which is capable of jumping
electronic systems can be very
7 If the above checks don’t reveal the cause
a particular size gap — Honda do not give a
high. On no account should the of the problem, have the ignition system
Specification, but a healthy system should
tested by a Honda dealer.
 Ignition system 63

p~ {

3.1a Ignition coil (A); primary wiring connectors (B), mounting bolt 3.1b Ignition coil (A); primary wiring connectors (B), mounting
(C) — 2001 to 2004 SH, Dylan and @ models bolts (C) - 2005-on SH and all PS models

from the coil (see illustration 3.1a, b or c).

3 Ignition coil Pull the cap off the spark plug (see illus-
tration 2.2).
WHE 4 Set an ohmmeter or multimeter to the
ohms x 1 scale and measure the resistance
between the primary terminals on the coil (see
Check illustration). This will give a resistance reading
1 On 2001 to 2004 SH, and all Dylan and of the primary windings of the coil — Honda
@ models the coil is mounted above the do not specify a value, but you should get a
alternator cover on the right-hand side of figure of a few ohms (an S-wing coil measured
the engine (see illustration). On 2005-on SH 2.8 ohms when tested). The important thing is
and all PS models the coil is mounted under that you do not get a zero or infinite reading.
the frame forward of the right-hand shock 5 Now set the meter to the K-ohm scale.
absorber (see illustration). On Pantheon Connect one meter probe to one of the 3.1¢ Ignition coil (A); primary wiring
and S-wing models the coil is mounted on primary terminals on the coil, and insert the connectors (B), mounting bolts (C) -
the right-hand frame rail (see illustration) other in the end of the spark plug cap, making Pantheon and S-wing models
— remove the storage compartment (see sure the probe is long enough to make contact
Chapter 9). Check the coil visually for loose (see illustration). This will give a resistance
or damaged connectors and terminals, cracks reading of the secondary windings of the coil 6 If the reading is not as described, unscrew
and other damage. — you should get a figure of several K-ohms the plug cap from the end of the HT lead.
2 Make sure the ignition is off. Remove the (the S-wing coil measured 15 K-ohms). The Measure the resistance of the spark plug cap
maintenance access panel (see Chapter 9). important thing is that you do not get a zero by connecting the meter probes between the
3 Disconnect the primary wiring connectors reading. HT lead socket and the spark plug contact

io fee ~ aa
3.4 To test the coil primary resistance, connect the multimeter 3.5 To test the coil secondary resistance connect the multimeter
leads between the primary circuit terminals leads between a primary circuit terminal and the spark plug cap
6e4 Ignition system

ae “at

3.6 Measuring the resistance of the spark plug cap 4.6 Unscrew the bolts (A) and free the wiring grommet (B)

(see illustration). The reading should be and @ models the coil is mounted above the and with the connector still connected, or by
around 5 K-ohms. If not replace the spark alternator cover on the right-hand side of a Honda dealer. Honda specify their own Imrie
plug cap with a new one. the engine (see illustration 3.1a) — the coil diagnostic tester (model 625), or the peak
7 If the primary and secondary resistance is accessible, but remove the body panels voltage adapter (Pt. No. O7HGJ-0020100) with
readings obtained are not as described, it is as required according to model for better an aftermarket digital multimeter having an
possible that the coil is defective. To confirm access if required. On 2005-on SH and all PS impedance of 10 M-ohm/DCV minimum, for a
this, it must be tested as follows using the models the coil is mounted under the frame complete test. If this equipment is available,
specified equipment, or by a Honda dealer. forward of the right-hand shock absorber (see on carburettor models connect the positive (+)
Honda specify their own Imrie diagnostic illustration 3.1b) — the coil is accessible, but lead of the voltmeter and peak voltage adapter
tester (model 625), or the peak voltage adapter remove the body cover for better access if arrangement to the white/yellow wire terminal
(Pt. No. O7HGJ-0020100) with an aftermarket required. On Pantheon and S-wing models the in the wiring connector, and the negative (-)
digital multimeter having an impedance of 10 coil is mounted on the right-hand frame rail lead to the yellow wire terminal, and on fuel
M-ohm/DCV minimum, for a complete test. (see illustration 3.1c) — remove the storage injection models connect the positive (+)
If this equipment is available, reconnect the compartment (see Chapter 9). lead to the yellow wire terminal in the wiring
wiring connectors to the coil. Connect the 12 Disconnect the primary wiring connectors connector, and the negative (-) lead to the
cap to a new spark plug and lay the plug from the coil (see illustration 3.1a, b or c). white/yellow wire terminal.
on the engine with the threads contacting Pull the cap off the spark plug (see illus- 4 Turn the ignition switch ON, turn the engine
it. If necessary, hold the spark plug with an tration 2.2). over on the starter motor and note the peak
insulated tool. Connect the positive (+) lead 13 Unscrew the bolt(s) and remove the coil voltage reading on the meter. If the peak
of the voltmeter and peak voltage adapter (see illustration 3.1a, b or c). voltage reading is lower than the specified
arrangement to the black/yellow primary wire 14 Installation is the reverse of removal. minimum, the pulse generator coil is faulty.
terminal on the coil on carburettor models, 5 If the ignition pulse generator coil functions
or to the black/white wire terminal on fuel 4 Pulse generator coil correctly then the fault must be in the wiring
injection models, with the wiring connector harness to the electronic control unit. Check
still connected, and connect the negative (-) the wiring for continuity, referring to electrical
lead to a suitable earth (ground) point. Whi system fault finding at the beginning of
8 Turn the ignition switch ON. Check that Chapter 10 and to the Wiring Diagrams at the
there is battery voltage reading on the meter, Check end of it. If the wiring is good, the ECU could
then turn the engine over on the starter motor be faulty.
1 Trace the 2-wire lead from the top of the
and note the peak voltage reading on the alternator cover on the right-hand side of the Removal and installation
meter. Once both readings have been noted, engine and disconnect it at the connector —
turn the ignition switch off and disconnect the 6 Remove the alternator cover (see Chapter
remove the body panels as required according
meter. 10). Unscrew the pulse generator coil bolts,
to your model for access to the connector (see
9 If the peak voltage readings are lower than then free the wiring grommet from the cover
Chapter 9).
the specified minimum then a fault is present and remove the coil (see illustration).
2 Using a multimeter set to the ohms x 10
somewhere else in the ignition system circuit 7 Installation is the reverse of removal. Apply
scale, measure the resistance between the
(see Section 2). some sealant to the wiring grommet.
white/yellow and yellow wire terminals on
10 If the initial and peak voltage readings are the alternator side of the connector — Honda
as specified and the plug does not spark, then do not specify a figure for any of the models 5 Electronic control eRe
the coil is faulty and must be replaced with a covered, but you should get a figure of a few unit (ECU) =x
new one.

Removal and installation

ohms. The important thing is that you do not
get a zero or infinite reading. If the reading x
obtained is not as described, it is possible
11 On all models remove the maintenance that the coil is defective. Check
access panel to the spark plug (see Chap- 3 To confirm this, it must be tested as 1 If the tests shown in the preceding or
ter 9). On 2001 to 2004 SH, and all Dylan described below using the specified equipment following Sections have failed to isolate the
 Ignition system 6¢5

ea
a =

5.2a ECU (arrowed) - Dylan and @ models 5.2b On fuel injection models release the 5.2c ... then pull the connector off
connector lock...

cause of an ignition fault, it is possible that the 5 On 2001 to 2004 SH and Dylan models tube lamps should be used, powered by an
electronic control unit (ECU) itself is faulty. No remove the body cover, on @ models remove external source of the appropriate voltage.
test details are available with which the unit can the right-hand side panel (see Chapter 9). Note: Do not use the machine’s own battery,
be tested. On carburettor models the best way Disconnect the wiring connector and remove as an incorrect reading may result from stray
to determine whether it is faulty is to substitute the ECU. impulses within the machine’s electrical
it with a Known good one, if available. On fuel 6 On fuel injection models remove the throttle system.
injection models, where the ECU is an integral body assembly — the ECU is an integral part of Check
part of the throttle body assembly, take the unit it.
to a Honda dealer for assessment. 3 Warm the engine up to normal operating
7 Installation is the reverse of removal.
2 Before condemning the ECU make sure temperature, then stop it.
Make sure the wiring connector is securely
the wiring connector is secure and the 4 Unscrew the timing inspection cap from the
connected.
terminals are clean and none of the wires alternator cover on the right-hand side of the
engine (see illustration).
have broken. For access, on 2001 to 2004 SH
5 The mark on the timing rotor which indicates
models remove the body cover — the ECU is 6 Ignition timing the firing point at idle speed is a line next to
at the back of the scooter. On Dylan models
an F (see illustration). The static timing mark
remove the body cover, and on @ models
remove the right-hand side panel — the ECU
is on the right-hand side (see illustration).
WEE with which this should align is the notch in the
inspection hole.
On all fuel injection models remove the
General information The timing marks can be
storage compartment (see Chapter 9) (see HAYNES
illustrations). Make sure the ignition is off 1 Since no provision exists for adjusting the highlighted with white paint
before disconnecting the wiring connector. ignition timing and since no component is to make them more visible
3 Also make sure the power supply and earth subject to mechanical wear, there is no need under the stroboscope light.
wires are good — with the ignition off disconnect for regular checks: only if investigating a fault
the wiring connector, then check for battery such as a loss of power or a misfire, should
the ignition timing be checked. 6 Connect the timing light to the coil
voltage at the black wire (carburettor models) HT lead as described in the manufacturer’s
or black/white wire (fuel injection models) 2 The ignition timing is checked dynamically
(engine running) using a stroboscopic instructions.
terminal of the connector using a voltmeter, 7 Start the engine and aim the light at the
with the ignition on. Also check for continuity lamp. The inexpensive neon lamps should
inspection hole.
to earth in the green wire(s). be adequate in theory, but in practice may
8 With the machine idling, the F mark should
produce a pulse of such low intensity that
Removal and installation align with the static timing mark.
the timing mark remains indistinct. If
9 Slowly increase the engine speed whilst
4 Make sure the ignition is off. possible, one of the more precise xenon
observing the F mark. The mark should
appear to move until it reaches full advance
(no identification mark).
10 As already stated, there is no means of
adjustment of the ignition timing on these
machines. If the ignition timing is incorrect,
or suspected of being incorrect, one of the
ignition system components is at fault, and
the system must be tested as described
in the preceding Sections of this Chap-
ter.
11 Install the timing inspection cap using a
new O-ring if required, and smear the O-ring
iii and the cap threads with clean oil. Tighten
6.4 Unscrew the inspection cap 6.5 The line above the F should align with the cap to the torque setting specified at the
the notch (arrowed) beginning of the Chapter.
6e6 Notes
 7e1

Chapter 7
Frame and suspension
Contents Section number Section number
FIRTOTE Ys SS Se, Se)Sa eee aa ee 2 Steering head bearing adjustment.................. see Chapter 1
Front forks PRA Ree fagSpee aes causal execs, Gas ce Age PST eats ¢ Steering head. bearing overhaul . wc. wie nyereces« ageye 2 oes se 6
ReiIh calICDSOUTMMALIGN sports ee tora <ca,© ces Buc sal, «oasesSEO 4. ,Steering Stems |... uil.-s savla diyees erste bectans aaa iene ion nae 5
AMC DGS AMC) EVGNS oie,cieners, incon crevess Seaianc« «AOS NAC ee Ag ESUSDENSION CHECK i> stay ohetereek) does cae ye reli cireehaweesyers see Chapter 1
ROAtesmOCkADSOMICMSusr cist gicdic scigunaed cv aterctalaa
here Sans Ste: SWING AN aks eet sttGhs ce attame eeschon tehe, aisu eis eAemeee e eereeeeeetae 9
SINGIG! . 2 COPE ROE Oo G COO On he eee ao ieee ae S

Degrees of difficulty
Easy, suitable for S Fairly easy, suitable S
$ Fairly difficult, “S Difficult, suitable Ss Very difficult, w
novice with little SS for beginner with SS suitable for BecaotadtS: for experienced DIY EN suitable for expert >
experience some experience N
DIY mechanic EN mechanic EN
DIY or professional SN
Specifications
Front forks
2001 to 2004 SH models
ROMY OG ot, 3 eedSMS austeense RPS nse on Sore cane Shoe Croatoa as 10W fork oil
EOUCOILCAD AGI Aot-ters tabi Hoc ei ri ees = aye cle iene suse eeetee 100 cc each leg
FOULAON NON Clits, by eis ts in Gyols cists sats. wha x papa aie Soe aletnld er allies 64 mm
Spring free length
STNG] AC nectene wee wep as eoenshetsi's baaSarthe iaaioe = iseRcrs RAE. aie ada, wgmhers 233.5 mm
Se VICE MINA RIN) ckeeteraitttoa eect cyasshile. 0.00. 2 Silo nara epodena PAREN Ns ole 228.8 mm
halt Cha EIG: FUMOU EwesiclisnecaistepencNetsigeite’.«,=.suo queen Matpeheaeer sais. atetameid 0.2 mm
2005-on SH models
OGON EV Cte ten cicicioseuvrss.ate cetera tee mee + ain ave eeu ateNe a's + isi ub re 10W fork oil
ea CNIC ACTIV rete aaa gon cheese Rortiches vayoaks» Sete mel Spe,Marlene ni(euetno re 99 to 101 cc each leg
Ot ONO Cline tecertri tv by Gcsvas tia Ain iaiS, << aime tetceg ree Gack rete he 106 mm
Spring free length
SAE oR ee a cr os Ai eetireny arate a epetch 257.2 mm
SEIN PVE UITIIED ieeeciderapart «ak oi wach«yhscien gaan aaa he eMail 252 mm
arin OCDE MUMOULE, tees on <depmus snGols aya,ole Fd nag aie mig,6 © ¥e a sie 0.2 mm
Dylan and @ models
RONGCONRVOGERBE ctetia erated | itil sets ieee 0s oe oie mca slso mleieraie 10W fork oil
ROMNGOMCADACIEY eeran) o etrie et Meets aie Wis the+ Werle ssa eines wilole.sisiars 108 cc each leg
Sarak Sill (EVE Boho co ae, Rea Cee CRE ER CR CCR NCO 50 mm
Spring free length
SLATICLANC Ena REI ee meet Gort Ble © GTN © ehananne i later es 233.5 mm
Sn Vi ONIIMTIUNC II) ssapeeeen sareeaaloiettanotcreyalnyersie e@ieuaysller ayelorlenfanas)ia oresa)pie 228.8 mm
ROKnontuOe TNOUL ssh tere -eisbeerress eatansls wa soles ale Siete alae) 0.2 mm
PS models
led at HiyGo a APRS Se toe nn eerie Ore a 10W fork oil
FOrkcOllGAPACILy eyes sista a sitet, aleve <)> « Aeimiunafonalelt eit «ns 9 ss 113 to 115 cc each leg
retate( Sul blFNWELRS ches chekRoce ce eae: Gel Renn cues eee oD Ac CRO cic Aeon oes 82 mm
Spring free length
SLAC ee ee eer ie ee ee ee ca ate 2 bee ee eee 6 250.2 mm
relavitere\ inaltin(nll) secant ic otseacu tcyol ics erUNeae Cn Sohne HCO 245 mm
Fork immer tuDS-srUnOuliey titre cna s ws oh naire aiebdteramle wlayaye ol ane 0.2 mm
7e2 Frame and suspension

Front forks (continued)

Pantheon models
RON OMY Dem sae aeteccgaciesk etie eiScielape arene 10W fork oil
ROLWOlliGapactl aims. e-iehs w vieiete: wena ks 133 to 135 cc each leg
FOUK OMMOVElgeerstuetie does. 2 4 oxen aonr eats ee 93 mm
Spring free length
LANG AnG racer ante ein otek arate 290.7 mm
Senviceslingit (min)ietase sos ae anaes 284.9 mm
Forkjinhentubeiminoutics). <2 a<cces0n t 0.2 mm
S-wing models
ROLKCOURY DO racks setae a rkial a2 hate clticicss atard 10W fork oil .
GFONCOMCAPACIY sheeicirs cow an gah. oom «ts 129.5 to 132.5 cc each leg
GOnkOnleVeline rere atm she caen scaaries oa ararn 97 mm
Spring free length
STAN CANCE eet re rk ea elle rs 296.7 mm
Selavilorey Vanlie (nin) ee ace nbs dtc a oe ae 290.8 mm
Fork inner tube runout .................. 0.2 mm
“measured from top of fork tube, leg fully compressed

Torque settings
Forcdampenrod DOlt mr. 5 ese. . cts oe-sncre
vies 20 Nm
Handlebar locating bolt
SAWIMIGAIMOCEIS mrasrer sas etkicieenoge
Gavan ale 44 Nm
AlOtnermOGdelSire sreccssve ac class c.cteitedereete 39 Nm
Realgaxleutaer mn sso a cusens atererereee as 118 Nm
Sidestand pivot bolt 10 Nm
Idestand PIVOLDOlt MU. cey.. eve fine ore ne cscere 29 Nm

2 After a high mileage, the frame should be between it and the mounting lugs, and noting
41> General information examined closely for signs of cracking or which fits where (see illustration).
splitting at the welded joints. Loose engine 4 Thoroughly clean the stand and inspect all —
mount and suspension bolts can cause ovaling components, replacing any that are worn or
or fracturing of the mounting points. Minor damaged with new ones.
All scooters covered by this manual are damage can often be repaired by specialist 5 Installation is the reverse of removal, noting
fitted with a tubular steel one-piece frame. welding, depending on the extent and nature the following:
Front suspension is by conventional of the damage. @ Apply grease to the pivot points.
telescopic forks, and is not adjustable on any 3 Remember that a frame which is out of @® Make sure that the springs hold the
model. alignment will cause handling problems. If stand up securely when it is not in use —
At the rear, twin oil damped shock absorbers misalignment is suspected as the result of an accident is almost certain to occur if
with adjustable spring pre-load are mounted an accident, it will be necessary to strip the the stand extends while the machine is
between the engine/transmission unit and machine completely so the frame can be
moving. If necessary, fit new springs.
the frame on the left-hand side and between thoroughly checked (see Chapter 8 for wheel
the swingarm and the frame on the right. The alignment checks). Sidestand
engine unit pivots on a hanger bracket with
6 A sidestand is fitted as standard to @,
Silentbloc bushes between the engine and 3 Stand(s) Pantheon and S-wing models, but may be
the bracket and between the bracket and the
fitted to other models as an optional extra.
frame.
Support the scooter on its centre stand.
Ancillary items such as stands and
handlebars are covered in this Chapter.
HUE 7 Remove the left-hand lower panel (see
Chapter 9).
Centrestand
2 Frame
1 The centrestand is fixed directly to the
underside of the engine. Support the scooter
securely in an upright position using an
auxiliary stand. Note: Do not rest the weight
1 The frame should not require attention of the machine on the bodywork - if necessary,
unless accident damage has occurred. In remove the belly panel to expose the frame
most cases, fitting a new frame is the only (see Chapter 9).
satisfactory remedy for such damage. A few 2 Note which way round the stand springs fit
frame specialists have the jigs and other and how they locate. With the stand retracted
equipment necessary for straightening the (UP position) carefully lever one end of each
frame to the required standard of accuracy, spring off using a large screwdriver or steel
but even then there is no simple way of rod.
assessing to what extent the frame may have 3 Unscrew the bolt on each side and 3.3 Unscrew the bolt (arrowed) on each
been over-stressed. remove the stand, retrieving the collars side
 Frame and suspension 7¢3

8 Unscrew the sidestand switch bolt and

displace the switch, noting how it locates (see
illustration).
9 Unhook the stand springs, noting how they
fit (see illustration).
10 Unscrew the nut on the stand pivot bolt,
then unscrew the bolt and remove the stand
(see illustration 3.9).
11 Installation is the reverse of removal,
noting the following:
@ Apply grease to the pivot bolt shank.
@ Tighten the pivot bolt to the torque setting
specified at the beginning of the Chapter,
then fit the nut and tighten that to the 3.8 Unscrew the bolt (arrowed) and 3.9 Unhook the springs (A). Pivot bolt nut
specified torque. displace the switch (B)
@ Make sure that the springs hold the
stand up securely when it is not in use — housings from the handlebars (see Chap- illustrations). Fit the spacers and nut in the
an accident is almost certain to occur if ter 10) — there is no need to disconnect the correct order and way round back onto the
the stand extends while the machine is wiring connectors. Undo the handlebar bolt to avoid confusion on installation.
moving. lf necessary, fit new springs. end-weight screws and remove the weights 8 If the handlebars are just being displaced,
@ Make sure the sidestand switch locates (see illustration). position and support them so that no strain
correctly. 4 Detach the throttle cable from the twistgrip is placed on any of the cables or hoses still
(see Chapter 5A). Slide the twistgrip off the attached.
end of the handlebar (see illustration).
Installation
5 Remove the left-hand grip. It may be
4 Handlebars and levers eS
Ss
CN
possible to pull the grip off the end of the bar,
if necessary cut it off.
9 Installation is the reverse of removal, noting
the following.
6 Release the cables/hoses/wiring from any @ Make sure the spacers are the correct way
al < ~
guides and ties on the handlebar as required round with the rounded side against the
according to model, noting their routing. steering stem.
Handlebars 7 Undo the handlebar retaining bolt nut and @® Tighten the handlebar locating bolt nut
Removal remove the spacer, noting which way round to the torque settings specified at the
it fits (see illustration). Withdraw the bolt beginning of this Chapter.
Note: /f required, the handlebars can be @ Make sure all cables, hoses and wiring are
with its spacer, then ease the handlebars up
displaced from the steering head for access off the stem, taking care not to strain any correctly routed and secured.
to the bearings without having to detach any cables, wiring and hoses that have been left in @® Check the throttle cable adjustment (see
cables or remove the front and rear brake position if only displacing the handlebars (see Chapter 1).
levers and/or brake master cylinder(s). If this is
the case, ignore the Steps which do not apply.
lf you are removing the handlebars completely,
carefully note the routing of all cables and
wiring before freeing it.
1 Remove the handlebar covers and any
other panels required according to model (see
Chapter 9).
2 Displace the front and rear brake lever
and master cylinder assemblies from the
handlebars (see Chapter 8). Make sure not
strain is placed on the hose(s) and/or cables,
according to model. Keep the brake fluid
reservoir(s) upright to prevent air entering the
4.3 Handlebar end-weight screw (arrowed)
system.
3 On S-wing models displace the switch

4.7a Unscrew the nut (arrowed) and 4.7b ... then withdraw the bolt... 4.7¢ ... and lift the handlebars off the
remove the spacer... steering stem
7e4 Frame and suspension

4.11 Unscrew the locknut (A) then unscrew 4.12a Unscrew the locknut then unscrew
the pivot bolt (B) and remove the lever the pivot bolt...

4.12c ... then remove the lever... 4.12d ...and if required the connecting 4.12e . . detaching it from the cable and
cable arm... removing the spring (arrowed)

@ Check the operation of the brakes and illustrations). If required detach the arm from make sure the spring is fitted over the end of
switches before riding the scooter. the cable, noting and retrieving the spring over the connecting cable, and apply a smear of
Brake levers the cable end (see illustration). grease to the cable end before fitting it into
13 To remove the rear brake lever on all the arm (see illustration 4.12e). Make sure
Removal except Pantheon and S-wing models, undo the ends of the spring under the pivot bolt
10 Remove the handlebar covers as required the screw securing the lever to the cable locate correctly (see illustration). Make sure
according to model for access to the lever linkage rod (see illustration). Unscrew the the brakes function correctly before riding the
pivots (see Chapter 9). lever pivot bolt locknut, then unscrew the pivot scooter.
11 On Pantheon and S-wing models unscrew bolt and remove the lever (see illustration).
the lever pivot bolt locknut, then unscrew Installation 5 Steering stem
the pivot bolt and remove the lever (see
illustration). 14 Installation is the reverse of removal. Apply
12 To remove the front brake lever on
all except Pantheon and S-wing models,
a smear grease or other suitable lubricant to
the pivot bolt shank and the contact areas Whi
unscrew the lever pivot bolt locknut, then between the lever and its bracket. Tighten
unscrew the pivot bolt and remove the spring, the pivot bolt lightly, then tighten the locknut. Removal
noting how its ends locate (see illustrations). Check that the lever doesn’t bind in its 1 Remove or displace the handlebars (see
Draw the lever and connecting cable arm out bracket. When fitting the front brake lever Section 4).
and separate them, noting how they fit (see on all except Pantheon and S-wing models 2 Remove the front forks (see Section 7).

* es ea’ a ee S 5k

4.13a Undo the cable linkage rod screw 4.13b ... then undo the locknut (A) then 4.14 Make sure the spring ends are
(arrowed)... the pivot bolt (B) correctly located
 Frame and suspension 7¢5

oi

5.4a Unscrew the brake hose guide bolt 5.4b Unscrew the bolts (arrowed) and 5.5 Locknut (A) and adjuster nut (B)
(arrowed - S-wing shown, other models displace the shield
vary in position)

5.6 Lower the steering stem out of the 5.8a Remove the upper bearing... 5.8b ...and the lower bearing
head

3 On SH models remove the front mudguard the steering head and the lower bearing from thread the adjuster nut onto the steering stem
(see Chapter 9). the steering stem (see illustrations). and tighten it finger-tight (see illustration).
4 Unscrew the bolt securing the brake hose 9 Remove all traces of old grease from the 12 Tighten the adjuster nut initially to settle
guide to the fork yoke (see illustration). On bearings and races and check them for wear the bearings, then slacken it, then re-tighten
Dylan, @ and PS models also displace the or damage as described in Section 6. Note: until all freeplay is removed. Check that the
deflector shield (see illustration). Do not attempt to remove the outer races steering still turns freely from side-to-side
5 Counter-hold the bearing adjuster nut, from the frame or the lower bearing inner race with no front-to-rear movement. The object
then unscrew and remove the locknut (see from the steering stem unless they are to be is to set the adjuster nut so that the bearings
illustration). Where fitted remove the washer, replaced with new ones. are under a very light loading, just enough to
noting how it locates. remove any freeplay.
6 Support the steering stem, then unscrew
Installation Caution: Take great care not to apply
the bearing adjuster nut and carefully lower 10 Smear a liberal quantity of grease on the excessive pressure because this will cause
the stem out of the steering head (see bearings and races. Fit the lower bearing onto premature failure of the bearings.
illustration). the steering stem (see illustration 5.8b). 13 Where removed fit the lockwasher,
7 On Pantheon and S-wing models lift out the 11 Carefully lift the steering stem up through locating its tab in the groove. Fit the locknut
upper bearing inner race — on all other models the steering head and hold it in position (see and tighten it tight (see illustration) - where
the inner race is formed into the underside of illustration 5.6). Fit the upper bearing (see no lock washer is fitted between the locknut
the adjuster nut. illustration), then on Pantheon and S-wing and adjuster nut make sure the adjuster nut
8 Remove the upper bearing from the top of models fit the upper race. On all models does not turn as you tighten the locknut (see

a #

5.11a Fit the upper bearing over the stem 5.11b Thread the adjuster nut on 5.13a Thread the locknut tightly against
finger-tight the adjuster nut...
7°6 Frame and suspension

Pw’ e ko» Pl ri

5.13b ... where no washer is fitted 6.3 Check the races for wear and damage 6.6a Drive the bearing races out with a
counter-holding the adjuster nut to prevent brass drift...
it turning

illustration).Check the bearing freeplay and on top of the upper bearing on Pantheon
re-adjust if necessary. and S-wing models, and is formed into the
14 Install the remaining components in the underside of the adjuster nut on all other
reverse order of removal. Check the bearing models, and the lower inner race is on the
freeplay according to the procedure in Chapter bottom of the steering stem (see illustration).
1 and re-adjust if necessary. 4 Inspect the bearings for signs of wear,
pitting or corrosion, and for cracks in the ball
cage.
6 Steering head bearing MS 5 If there are any signs of wear or damage on
overhaul SN any of the above components both upper and

x lower bearing assemblies should be replaced

as a set. Only remove the races from the
steering head and the stem if new ones are to
Inspection be fitted —- do not re-use them once they have 6.6b ... locating it against the exposed
been removed. rim (arrowed)
1 Remove the steering stem (see Section 5).
2 Remove all traces of old grease from the
bearings and races and check them for wear Renewal FINA) /nstallation of new bearing
or damage. 6 The outer races are an interference fit in HINT outer races is made much
3 The races should be polished and free the frame and can be tapped from position easier if the races are left
from indentations. The outer races are in using a suitable drift located against the inner overnight in the freezer. This”
the steering head, the upper inner race rests rim (see illustrations). Tap firmly and evenly causes them to contract slightly making
around each race to ensure that it is driven out them a looser fit.
squarely. It may prove advantageous to curve
the end of the drift slightly to improve access.
7 Alternatively, the races can be pulled out 9 To remove the lower inner race from the
using a slide-hammer with internal expanding steering stem, first drive a chisel between
extractor. the base of the race and the fork yoke
8 The new outer races can be pressed into (see illustration). Work the chisel around
the frame using a drawbolt arrangement (see the race to ensure it lifts squarely. Once
illustration), or by using a large diameter there is clearance beneath the race,
tubular drift which bears only on the outer use two levers placed on opposite sides
edge of the race. Ensure that the drawbolt of the race to work it free, using blocks of
washer or drift (as applicable) bears only wood to improve leverage and protect the
on the outer edge of the race and does not yoke (see illustration). If the race is firmly
contact the working surface. in place it can drawn off using a puller (see

6.8 Drawbolt arrangement for fitting

steering stem bearing races
1 Long bolt or threaded bar
2. Thick washer 6.9a Remove the lower bearing race using 6.9b ...and screwdrivers...
3 Guide for lower race a cold chisel...
 Frame and suspension 7¢7

BEARING
DRIVER

|=|
a
a
t

BEARING
PULLER
(crf

7.1 Detach the brake hose guide from the

fork
6.10 Drive the new race on using a
suitable bearing driver or a length of pipe clamp bolt. On 2001 to 2004 SH models and
6.9c ... ora puller if necessary that bears only against the inner edge all Dylan and @ models, if the fork oil has
been changed or the fork was disassembled,
illustration). Remove the dust seal and 2 Remove the front mudguard (see Chap- slacken the upper clamp bolt and tighten the
replace it with a new one. ter 9). If required remove the lower front panel fork top bolt now, then retighten the clamp
10 Fit the new lower inner race bearing onto for improved access to the top of the fork (see bolt.
the steering stem. A length of tubing with Chapter 9). 6 Install the remaining components in
an internal diameter slightly larger than the 3 Work on one fork at a time. Unscrew the reverse order of removal. Check the
steering stem will be needed to tap the new and remove the upper clamp bolt (see operation of the front forks before riding the
race into position (see illustration). Ensure illustration). On 2001 to 2004 SH models and scooter.
that the tube bears only on the inner edge all Dylan and @ models, if the fork oil is being
of the race and does not contact its working changed or the fork is being disassembled,
surface. slacken the top bolt now while the inner tube Oil change
11 Install the steering stem (see Section 5). is still clamped in the yoke. Hold the fork and 7 Remove the fork (see Steps 1 to 3).
slacken the lower clamp bolt, then remove the Always dismantle each fork separately
= Fro fork leg by twisting it and pulling it downwards to avoid interchanging parts. Store all
nt fork (see illustration). components in separate, clearly marked
s containers.
8 On 2001 to 2004 SH models and all Dylan
HEE HAYNES it the fork legs ¢
areseized ine
|
the yoke, spray the area with
and @ models unscrew the fork top bolt,
noting that it is under pressure from the fork
Note: A/ways dismantle each fork separately penetrating oil and allow — spring (see illustration) — using a ratchet tool
and store all components in separate, clearly _ time for it to soak in eters : enables you to maintain a constant downward
marked containers to avoid interchanging ee again. : pressure while unscrewing the bolt, then to
parts. Check the availability of replacement release the pressure slowly.
parts and the type and quantity of fork Warning: The fork spring is
oil required before disassembling the pressing on the fork top bolt or
Installation
forks. plug with considerable pressure.
4 Remove all traces of corrosion from the fork
It is advisable to wear some form of eye
inner tubes and in the yoke. Install each fork
and face protection when carrying out this
Removal separately.
operation.
1 Remove the front wheel (see Chapter 8). 5 Slide the fork up into the yoke and align
Unscrew the bolt securing the brake hose the groove in the top of the inner tube with 9 On 2005-on SH models, and all PS,
the upper clamp bolt hole in the yoke (see Pantheon and S-wing models remove the fork
_ guide to the left-hand fork and secure the
brake caliper with a cable-tie to avoid straining illustration 7.3b). Insert the bolt and tighten top cap, then press the top plug down against
it (see illustration 7.3a). Tighten the lower the tension of the fork spring and remove the
the hose (see illustration).

7.3a Remove the top clamp bolt and 7.3b ... then draw the fork out of the yoke 7.8 Unscrewing the fork top bolt using a
slacken the lower one (arrowed)... ratchet tool
7°8 Frame and suspension

7.9a Remove the cap... 7.9b ... then press down on the top plug 7.9c ... then release and remove the plug
and remove the retaining ring ...
retaining ring (see illustrations). Ease the 11 Invert the fork over a suitable container fork upright and allow the oil to settle for a few
plug out carefully (see illustration). and pump it to expel as much oil as possible minutes, then measure the oil level from the
10 Slide the inner tube down into the outer (see illustration). top of the tube with it fully compressed (see
tube and withdraw the spring, noting which way 12 Slowly pour in the correct quantity of the illustrations). Add or extract oil as necessary
up it is fitted - some models have closer-wound specified grade of fork oil and carefully pump to ensure the level is correct.
coils at one end (see illustration). the fork to distribute the oil evenly. Support the 13 Pull the inner tube out and install the
spring (see illustration 7.10). Note that if the
spring coils are closer together at one end,
this end should be uppermost.
14 If necessary, fit a new O-ring onto the fork
top bolt or plug and lubricate it with clean fork
oil (see illustration).
15 On 2001 to 2004 SH models and all
Dylan and @ models, keeping the fork leg fully
extended, fit the top bolt, pressing down onto the
spring, and thread it into the tube, again using
a ratchet tool if possible to maintain downward
pressure (see illustration 7.8). Tighten the bolt
as much as possible — it can be fully tightened
after the fork has been installed (see Step 5).
7.11 Invert the fork over a container and
Warning: Compressing the spring
tip the oil out
with the fork top bolt or plug is a
potentially dangerous operation
and should be performed with
care, using an assistant if necessary. Wipe
off any excess oil beforehand to prevent
the possibility of slipping.
16 On 2005-on SH models, and all PS,
Pantheon and S-wing models, keeping the
fork fully extended, press the plug down
onto the spring until the retaining ring groove
is visible and fit the ring (see illustrations).
Make sure the ring is correctly located in its
groove, then slowly release pressure so the
plug seats on the underside of the ring. Fit the
7.12a Pour the oil into the top of the tube, top cap (see illustration 7.9a).
and distribute and bleed it as described... 17 Install the fork (see Steps 4 to 6).

Eas Zi

7.14 Check the O-ring (arrowed) and fit a 7.16a Fit the plug... 7.16b ... the press it down and fit the
new one if necessary
retaining ring into its groove
 Frame and suspension 7¢9

7.19 Slacken the damper rod bolt 7.21 Unscrew and remove the damper rod 7.22a Draw the inner tube out of the outer
bolt tube...

Disassembly illustration). If the seat was not on the bottom either of the tubes is damaged or worn, or the
18 Remove the fork (see Steps 1 to 3). of the rod tip it out of the outer tube. amount of runout exceeds the limit specified
23 Carefully lever the dust seal out of the top at the beginning of the Chapter, replace both
19 Turn the fork upside down and compress
of the outer tube (see illustration). inner tubes with new ones.
it so that the spring exerts maximum pressure
24 Prise out the oil seal retaining clip (see 27 Check the condition of the bush in the
on the damper rod head, then loosen the
illustration). Remove the oil seal using an top of the outer tube (see illustration) — if the
damper rod bolt in the base of the fork outer
internal expanding puller with slide hammer grey Teflon surface has worn to expose the
tube, then lightly retighten it to prevent oil
attachment (see illustration). Discard the oil copper underneath over more than 3/4 of the
leaking from around it (see illustration).
and dust seals as new ones must be used on surface area, or if the surface is scratched or
20 Drain the oil from the fork (see Steps 7 otherwise damaged, remove it using the same
reassembly.
to 11). puller and slide hammer arrangement used for
21 Lay the fork flat and unscrew the damper Inspection the oil seal.
rod bolt (see illustration). Discard the sealing 25 Clean all parts in a suitable solvent and 28 Inspect the fork springs for cracks, wear
washer as a new one must be used on dry them with compressed air, if available. and other damage. Over an extended period,
reassembly. 26 Inspect the fork inner tubes for score the springs will sag — measure the spring
22 Pull the inner tube and damper rod out of marks, pitting or flaking of the chrome finish free length, and check they are both the
the outer tube (see illustration). The damper and excessive or abnormal wear. Check each same length (see illustration). If one spring
rod seat may come out on the bottom of the tube is straight by laying a straight-edge along is defective, or if the springs have sagged,
rod, in which case remove it, then tip the it. If any bend is evident check the amount replace the springs with a new pair.
damper rod out of the top the inner tube (see of runout using V-blocks and a dial gauge. If 29 Check the condition of the damper rod
RS 3 Ba

7.22b ...then remove the damper rod 7.23 Prise out the dust seal using a flat 7.24a Prise out the retaining clip using a
seat and tip the rod out bladed screwdriver flat bladed screwdriver

7.24b Locate the puller under the oil 7.27 Check the bush (arrowed) for wear 7.28 Measure the free length of the spring
seal and jar the seal out using the
slide-hammer attachment
7°10 Frame and suspension

7.29 Check the rod for damage and the

ring (arrowed) for wear
illustrations). The markings on the seal should
face upwards. When the seal is fully seated
secure it with the circlip (see illustration). Make
sure the clip is correctly located in its groove.
32 If removed fit the rebound spring onto
the damper rod, and the piston ring into the
groove in its head (see illustration 7.29). Fit
the damper rod into the top of the inner tube
and slide it down so that it protrudes from the
bottom (see illustration). Fit the seat onto
the bottom of the rod, then push it up into the
bottom of the tube (see illustrations).
OA 33 Lubricate the fork oil seal with the specified
7.31b ...and drive it into place... 7.31¢ Fit the seal retaining clip into its fork oil, then slide the inner tube fully into the
groove outer tube, taking care not to damage the lips
and its rebound spring (see illustration). of the seal (see illustrations). Temporarily
the top of the outer tube, then drive it into
Check the piston ring in the groove in the top fit the fork spring to hold the damper rod in
place using suitable drift, making sure it enters
of the rod for wear and replace it with a new position (see illustration 7.10).
squarely, until seated (see illustration). 34 Fit a new sealing washer to the damper
one if necessary.
31 Press a new oil seal into place in the outer bolt and apply a few drops of a suitable,
Reassembly tube, using a driver or suitably-sized socket that non-permanent thread-locking compound
30 If a new bush is being fitted, locate it in bears on the outer edge of the seal only (see (see illustration). Thread the bolt into the

¥ ee us

7.32b ...S0 it protrudes from the bottom, 7.32c ... and locate it in the bottom of the
then fit the seat... tube

7.33a Lubricate the seal lips... 7.33b ... then fit the inner tube into the 7.34 Fit the bolt using threadlock and a
outer tube new sealing washer
 Frame and suspension 7¢11

7.35 Fit the dust seal into the top of the 8.3b ... draw the shock back off the
outer tube mount after removing the bottom bolt
bottom of the damper rod via the hole in the
bottom of the outer tube and tighten it to
the torque setting specified at the beginning
of the chapter (see illustration 7.19). If the
damper rotates inside the tube, wait until the
fork is fully assembled then hold it with spring
pressure as on disassembly.
35 Lubricate the inside of the new dust seal
then slide it down the fork tube and press it
into position (see illustration).
36 Add the recommended quantity of oil then
finish rebuilding the fork — see Steps 12 to 17.
Do not forget to tighten the damper rod bolt if
necessary. 8.6 Check for oil leaks around the rod 8.11 Turn the spring seat (arrowed) to adjust
(arrowed) pre-load — Pantheon/S-wing type shown
8 Rear shock absorbers Inspect the mounting bolts and bolt holes for 13 On all other models the standard setting
wear. is in position 1, with the spring seat on the
Whi8mounting
With the exception of the
hardware, individual
bushes and
components
highest point so the spring is at its least
compressed. Positions 2 and 3 are for heavier
are not available for the shock. If any parts are loads.
Removal worn or damaged, a new shock must be fitted 14 Always make sure both shock absorbers
1 Support the scooter on its centre stand, - it is best to replace them as a pair. are set to the same position.
then position a support under the rear wheel
Installation
so that the engine does not drop when the 9 Swingarm
second shock absorber is removed. Check 9 Installation is the reverse of removal.
that the weight of the machine is off the
rear suspension so that the shock is not
Adjustment
10 The rear shock absorbers are adjustable
WHY
- compressed. for spring pre-load. On Pantheon and S-wing
2 Remove the body cover (see Chapter 9). On models there are five settings, and on all other Removal
SH, Dylan, @ and PS models remove the air models there are three. 1 Remove the exhaust system (see Chapter
filter housing to access the left-hand shock 41 Adjustment is made by turning the spring 5A or B). Remove the rear mudguard (see
absorber. On all models remove the exhaust seat on the bottom of the shock absorber, Chapter 9).
system to access the right-hand one (see using a pin spanner (see illustration). 2 Lock the wheel using a piece of wood between
Chapter 5A or B). 12 On Pantheon and S-wing models the a spoke and the transmission casing (see
3 Undo the bolt securing the lower end of standard setting is in position 3. Positions 1 illustration 9.10b), then slacken the rear wheel
the shock and pull the shock away from its and 2 are for lighter loads and smooth roads, nut and thread it off the axle (see illustration).
mounting (see illustrations). and positions 4 and 5 for heavy loads. Also remove the spacer (see illustration).
4 Undo the bolt securing the upper end of the
shock, then support the shock and withdraw
the bolt. Lift the shock absorber off.

Inspection
5 Inspect the shock absorber for obvious
physical damage. Check the coil spring for
looseness, cracks or signs of fatigue.
6 Inspect the damper rod for signs of bending,
pitting and oil leaks (see illustration).
7 Inspect the upper mounting bush in the top
of the shock absorber and the lower mounting
bush in either the transmission casing or the
swingarm for wear, and replace them with 9.2b ...and remove the spacer
9.2a Unscrew the rear wheel nut...
new ones if necessary (see illustration 8.3b).
7°12 Frame and suspension

9.5a Unscrew the bolts (arrowed) 9.5b Draw the swingarm off... 9.5c ...and remove the inner spacer

3 On 2009-on SH models with a rear disc Inspection into each side, setting them flush with their
brake, and all Pantheon and S-wing models, housing rim.
6 Thoroughly clean all components, removing
displace the rear brake caliper and hose and
all traces of dirt, corrosion and grease.
tie it clear of the swingarm (see Chapter 8). 7 Inspect the swingarm, looking for cracks or
On S-wing models with ABS remove the rear Installation
distortion due to accident damage.
wheel speed sensor cover and displace the 8 Check the condition of the rear axle bearing 10 Installation is the reverse of removal.
sensor and wiring from the swingarm (see and its grease seals (see illustration). If Apply grease to the inside of the spacers and
Chapter 8). necessary lever out the seals using a flat to the seal lips. Fit the shouldered spacer into
4 Undo the bottom bolt securing the bladed screwdriver or seal hook - discard the seal on the inside of the swingarm and
right-hand shock absorber to the swingarm, them and use new ones. the plain spacer into that in the outside. Make
then pivot it back and secure it clear (see 9 If the bearing is worn, remove the
illustration 8.3b). sure the washers are fitted with the bolts (see
circlip securing it, then drive it out from the
5 Unscrew the bolts securing the swingarm illustration). Tighten the rear axle nut to the
other side using a driver or suitable socket.
to the engine, noting the washers (see Drive the new bearing in until it seats using torque setting specified at the beginning of
illustration). Grasp the swingarm and draw it a driver or socket that bears only on the the Chapter, locking the rear wheel as before
off the rear axle (see illustration). Remove the outer race. Secure the bearing with a new (see illustration).
inner spacer — it may have stayed on the axle circlip — if the circlip has a chamfered edge 11 Check the operation of the rear brake and
(see illustration). face it towards the bearing. Fit a new seal suspension before riding the scooter.

tS 2

9.8 Check the seal on each side and the 9.10b Tighten the axle nut to the specified
bearing torque
 Be

Chapter8 ©
Brakes, wheels and tyres
Contents Section number Section number
ABS (Anti-lock Brake System) <0... 6.00. cee cee deems educate 1S Reanbrake:Calipery. ios its etatetersailedets lee elites tn hetets Aree 9
Brakeifiuid levelicheck . 2 cc).f.se sean cwlecc casas Seo Pres Oe CHECKS mcReal DIAKEYCISCL, “ena; s hte iouatte cre ae tae, cae ce ealceae tet ete 10
Brake mOSeS piIpeS-aNnd TUINGS ©c.. ;sadac Gen lesteate ee cans nes ae Roeat brake master: CVlMOGr wave, cin acralecarecn chit chalets eee ema ee 11
PeaCG VENS Reread te even tevey a Ak tae mtiare. © Ue k et eie was see Chapter. alRear Drake:DadS rc Bic tina a cuales bee caress eee eae eo 8
EtaKeMIGiE SWIICHES s 2 .0c wa holes onan cla cite smite den see Chapter 10 Rear drum brake cables and equalizer mechanism.............. if
Brake pad and shoe wear check...............000- See'Chapteng) near Oru Drake... to<'"gsh siete sisted eielees ele isu aban ater cuca 6
Brake system bleeding and fluid change...............-00e0eue Ta AEGAN WIHEC| atcil cnats Pacse ysrageptuskaccng abana a NegeNnee eeetaa oe uclie a Rebeee aeremee 19
BraK@isySleNnN GeO ent toon ts mec. cn nvm: see Chapter 1 Tyre pressure, tread depth and condition ......... see Pre-ride checks
SERMONS (eeTOTT: cain leand ie acyl ta2 ae am Mian ae mar Sle PUR KcUA A Seige cakomt cee ERe CEN on tice ceeahe tee atime Gdn Hise are 21
MEDI AKCIGSGtern ame see es eft eter < eile ches eas «adh as A SaVVieel alignment CHECK .ccntnsscru -taladciesters Sita tatacatarrs emer mete 17
Brant Orakoumaster CYIMOOrs. 1... 52-08 oh ste eens cadew ae wht ome Wheel bearing: checks iis ais sits )aactte tseka cla oa eethe see Chapter 1
Ricnti ak DAUSMENN ene se See Mis Sate ete Wicks dels wna we oboe 2, (Wheel Dearindss.. § igs sNetene eibedecat ule aes cee aie eres ee eee 20
TUSSIREN AMES) sueviors Rares oonciea aclneeRae e oe 48 e WNEGLICNEGKGi.5. tate a torasstaboncneie tetoie atpterbeeatececinis
com eeenemede see Chapter 1
Reso LcAMMALOKIMRCAON ete ete are vis siawlg fo ea doe niece: tka ae ee capes fayhas ape 1, Wheeliinspection and repair tin. .ch «2 a se oe eee erent 16
venaune systonn Gelay VaIVe. «fale Seca nein we a aes cpejeditea 12)

Degrees of difficulty
Easy, suitable for
novice with little
S| Fairly easy, suitable
SS | for beginner with S|
R Fairly difficult,
x Difficult, suitable
N
Very difficult,
suitable for competent & | for experienced DIY YQ | suitable for expert
experience &W | some experience N DIY mechanic x mechanic EN
DIY or professional

Specifications
Front disc brake
2001 to 2008 SH models, 2009-on SH models with rear drum brake, all Dylan, @ and PS models
Brake fliGivpomsmeriia, Gi errcricicie ters 6 sales nBine «ym iale wa DOT 4
Standard Service limit
ANE DONE Ded vera, cia rn cine Kies nce Sales saab te tn ries 27.000 to 27.050 mm 27.060 mm
ADC DISOM OWT wees ct ad cc tees ce Ghea deubnne nese em cesae 26.918 to 26.968 mm 26.910 mm
Master CYIINGER DOT): tet ncc src ea nares ceaer ae tere eene enn 12.700 to 12.743 mm 12.755 mm
Master cylinder piston OD ......0.. cece nen ecette ener ne nees 12.657 to 12.684 mm 12.645 mm
DIS GiMICKMOSS wate carer scammer aya rtd Goce ark « wei a eiTee Girma eim otwtene 3.8 to 4.2 mm 3.5mm
BSC re HUNT NUNMOUIE ct sree agere ceqraeieauayer ies..ga seh eaje vueiniiele shen ee ~ 0.30 mm

2009-on SH models with rear disc brake

Brakes titlidl typOur: ae ewicin seit rie aie oa eeienrde whe eo hile oe DOT 4 15
Caliper bore ID Standard Service limit
Upper and lower bores. ....... see cece eee terre ete teens 25.400 to 25.450 mm 25.460 mm
RANCH (OTC eae eta ails acon tis A siidkale o's ens Sta Fistarsimate 22.650 to 22.700 mm 22.710 mm
Caliper piston OD
Upper and lower boreS. 6... 6c t eee teeter eee tte 25.335 to 25.368 mm 25.310 mm
‘Wilvofeltsmavelrs isa cscacanin D PREG tS icles CLneRC ihr areAPMP wc eee RE 22.585 to 22.618 mm 22.56 mm
Master cylinder bore ID ...... 66. c eee eee eee eee eens 11.000 to 11.043 mm 11.055 mm
2... . 6c eee ee erect ee eee eens 10.957 to 10.984 mm 10.945 mm
Master cylinder piston OD...
3.8 to 4.2 mm 3.5mm
BSS THICKNICSS HINT eater eine ialoicts srarclelociega'as Hslagercmltya) seen iutaness
- 0.30 mm
AniUlAAl aulmeleevere ners coche AieRCRCReERCEEN Iciees noaee CocLear Cucispoetareca
Dy eon pateh
8e2 Brakes, wheels and tyres

Front disc brake (continued)

Pantheon and S-wing models
Brakentiuiichty pe jseuntate ss). fe ec seer tron aicae © isSesneee erstenae rere eee DOT 4
Caliper bore ID Standard Service limit
Uppermandilowermborest...- +. Sx-< Muieeoeteiniec 4 atch omic acaatv ome 27.000 to 27.050 mm 27.060 mm
WiGGIe IDOLE re dance tie ce -one REN UME « @ DTe oh Sener aren REN 22.650 to 22.700 mm 22.710 mm
Caliper piston OD
Wp perianal lOweMmbOnes sar. c.. wets coe ick tote a Sudanese uated Pele kaubEe 26.918 to 26.968 mm 26.910 mm
Midcleibonre sarah. = sare emtciens rs, ses cueie. 5c aaa Ope ee Gai 22.585 to 22.618 mm 22.560 mm
WEBCGM IiNs Eiploletieill Dike pomec oc oem eee rb ote e 6 aoe 12.700 to 12.743 mm 12.755 mm
Mastoncvliindempiston OD, see .cacie tien aires ution ake teen ere 12.657 to 12.684 mm 12.645 mm
DISCHITICKESS seen tee ee cronies Beane ook hays Grecabte Send Nene Geen 4.0 mm 3.5mm
SO medinann AUN decceccecns Getarcoe ty chee. SMP Rea eae MOM A ciceic antral a. - 0.25 mm

Rear drum brake

Drum internal diameter
SoTeattl CHARM TEIMe fou Sc reeois aru casdG) mech ranccunites Rasles Ea aeons 130.0 mm
SONVIGE TINUE tay RT Co titre circ den, terdec" Ata ee eS 131.0 mm

Rear disc brake

2009-on SH models
Brakes Uiclity pO sete chris, Sect, ota) satire mieosiiate aa as nis Meee ea DOT 4
Standard Service limit
(Celleci stolen D) spas Gage ere eace en os een ROS emt: ene 38.180 to 38.230 mm 38.240 mm
CalipGDiStOMO LD werwrer nt itr we ee tees a aca a chs Meme iaieas Meee 38.115 to 38.148 mm 38.09 mm
Mastenmeyiincderbore Dictate se ae sat ace)« & the autemtae 14.000 to 14.043 mm 14.055 mm
Mastemeviinden piston OD aise. mrartamit: sores 1 < baraceter a eescradrs (Steccas 13.957 to 13.984 mm 13.945 mm
DISCAINICKMESS wersect rece tices dtcmode © tet eek ate eis os ake ic Rea 4.8 to 5.2 mm 4.0 mm
DIRS CUO UO ae a ahs OO ERP Oe eee a ote - 0.30 mm
Pantheon models
Brakesuichtypemcryeait rie 2 siete tie siitetie cls & shee Sey eenoiias moe DOT 4
Standard Service limit
(Callfact stoi lD irs, ogee gets nine he Ge ee ME ee eee ee ee re 33.960 to 34.010 mm 34.020 mm
CalipegpistomOWmarrpesr ti nice utet.ca 5,Sects’ »,«chases ee mee ele 33.878 to 33.928 mm 33.870 mm
Mastemcviincdegbore: Demy ree Wc. cuir’ cus Re ENG EN. atone 14.000 to 14.043 mm 14.055 mm
MasichicylimcdenpistoniOU tutta coh ah ras. =. .:cawmcuncmreis he ons 13.957 to 13.984 mm 13.945 mm
DISCHIICKMESS Ee corte ERNE ce iste nores celitiae os Oe tan cet eee 5.0 mm 4.0 mm
DISciMmaxiiUnnrenOUienneeme serie cuales uiche a tekc aatal «kecine alias - 0.25 mm
S-wing models
Brake MIG LVDOM micas tater seb d ass he.c ok 4 cotati eee DOT 4
Standard Service limit
Galipombore Dyers sci ties tack G Sieade hota s 7 SORE SRE ee 38.180 to 38.230 mm 38.240 mm
Cali DetgDISLOMO Deere tek eus «ech ache ae, < eee ee Se Ee 38.098 to 38.148 mm 38.09 mm
WastelCVlindeR Dore: ID encriina.cte a secehamin cohen. ele eee ee 14.000 to 14.043 mm 14.055 mm
NasteneylindenpistonlOD....2 ce ses cooks. sos See Ge eae 13.957 to 13.984 mm 13.945 mm
DISC MINCKMESS on tere eastern rc Shae Sees Sic ice i» wamia bed eee ee 5.0 mm 4.0 mm
DISCIMAXiINUINNUAOUt Ee tetm rnc wos Sloe cace a). RAR ee eee - 0.25 mm

ABS (S-wing A models)

WieelSPESclSehSOMalh Gapmmtcts: ders nen uxecctoc ete ee ete eee 0.2 to 1.2 mm

Wheels
Maximum wheel runout (front and rear)
Axialk(SIGCtO-SIE) Fx euanccyerstaes Cet etn Sosaeducneneen oa 2.0 mm
Radial) (OUt-Of-round )\ewreeet so eco, csc 0st sae ceeene 2.0mm
Maxima axle TUnOUt(TTOnt) we terrersjeietiice'. «cla seen naan 0.20 mm

Tyres
MYLO HSSSLUNOS So. se SIN Sate ceils » acy«:21 ee rl see Pre-ride checks
Tyre sizes* Front Rear
SUM MOGEIS wvaicicdnre ee ote eather aca eee ees) Oe 100/80-16M/C (50P) 120/80-16M/C (60P)
Dylan @tand'PS models. = -y.". .... oan... eee 110/90-13M/C (56L) 130/70-13M/C (57L)
Pantheon and S-wing models 110/90-13M/C (56L)
“Refer to the owners handbook or the tyre information label on the swingarm for 130/70-12M/C (62L)
approved tyre brands.
 Brakes, wheels and tyres 8¢3

Torque settings
imeraxe caliper bleed valves... 0... og ees Pac. cade eae ndunasecda 6 Nm
GSE DONSING = 90s Wins SEL CES EE ha ores cents aepietie ss a Be 42 Nm
Beomamose banjo Polts.s\6. 0. ke Pees Goa owned Beene 34 Nm
Brae pI PSrGlandiiUts We wets seks sulcete © ais«vere aust ee Mouels 14. Nm
Front axle nut
Se bya, @ ane PS models: .e sey. ve. ok nih bw eee cs 68 Nm
Panhieonand’S-wing models 40:1. f.. s. woes vige es x elluhie on 59 Nm
Front brake caliper body bolts (Pantheon models) ...............- 320 Nm
Front brake caliperimounting bolts .. 2.5. glee ..
cetna beac 30 Nm
Rronuiotake padiretaining| Pin(S)a fads. «cate eclige se +
ve..o.< «cs os 17 Nm
Front wheel pulse ring (S-wing A models) ............00.0eeeeeee 8Nm
MIccteMGV INGO OOUSe hth Ue meam tore nckc sca coe mee seas « 12 Nm
meatbrakecalipeh mounting DONS so... oes ca cc eee ete ee 30 Nm
Rear brake caliper slider pin bolt (GH and S-wing models).......... 30 Nm
Rear brake caliper slider pin (Pantheon models...............0005 22 Nm
Rear brake pad retaining pin (Pantheon models)................-. 18 Nm
Rear wheel pulse ring (S-wing A models).............0.000eceeee 8 Nm

system, with the connecting cable pulling on disconnected, the union sealing washers
1 General information an arm mounted under the front brake lever. must be renewed and the system bled
On models with a rear disc brake the rear upon reassembly. Do not use solvents on
brake lever actuates the middle piston in the internal brake components. Solvents will
front brake caliper via a delay valve (the front cause the seals to swell and distort. Use
All models covered in this manual have an brake lever actuates the upper and lower only clean DOT 4 brake fluid for cleaning.
hydraulically operated front disc brake, with a pistons). Use care when working with brake fluid as
twin piston sliding caliper on models that have S-wing A models are fitted with an anti-lock it can injure your eyes and it will damage
a rear drum brake, and a triple piston sliding braking system (ABS), that prevents the painted surfaces and plastic parts.
caliper on models with a rear disc brake. All wheels from locking under heavy braking.
2 Front brake pads
x
models with a rear disc brake have a sliding All models are fitted with cast alloy wheels By
designed for tubeless tyres only.
ES
rear caliper with a single piston.
All models have a linked braking system, Caution: Disc brake components rarely
whereby the rear brake lever also actuates the require disassembly. Do not disassemble
front brake. On models with a rear drum brake components unless absolutely necessary.
If an hydraulic brake hose is loosened or Warning: The dust created by the
the front brake is actuated via a twin cable
VIN brake system is harmful to your
health. Never blow it out with
compressed air and don’t inhale
any of it. An approved filtering mask should
be worn when working on the brakes.

Removal
2001 to 2008 SH models, 2009-on
SH models with rear drum brake, all
Dylan, @ and PS models

VI
1 Unscrew the pad retaining pin plugs,
then slacken the pad retaining pins (see
illustration).
2 Unscrew the caliper mounting bolts and
2.1 Remove the plugs, then slacke slide the caliper off the disc (see illustration).
pins (arrowed) Free the brake hose from the front fork to give
more freedom of movement if required (see
illustration 3.2).
3 Unscrew and remove the pad pins, then
remove the pads, noting how they fit (see
illustrations). Note: Do not operate either
brake lever while the pads are out of the
caliper.
2009-on SH models with rear disc
brake, Pantheon and S-wing models
4 On Pantheon models remove the pad
retaining pin plug.
5 On S-wing models with ABS unscrew
the wheel speed sensor mounting bolts and
wiring guide bolt and displace the sensor from
2.3a Unscrew the pins... 2.3b ...and remove the pads the caliper bracket.
8°4 Brakes, wheels and tyres

section of each piston to remove any dirt

or debris that could cause the seals to be
damaged. If new pads are being fitted, push
the pistons all the way back into the caliper
to create room for them; if the old pads are
still serviceable push the pistons in a little
way. To push the pistons back use finger
pressure or a piece of wood as leverage, or
place the old pads back in the caliper and use
a metal bar or a screwdriver inserted between
them, or use grips and a piece of wood, with
= ‘ ® re ee
rag or card to protect the caliper body (see
illustration). Alternatively obtain a proper
2.7 Unscrew the bolts (arrowed) and piston-pushing tool from a good tool supplier
displace the caliper (see illustration). If there is too much brake
fluid in the reservoir it may be necessary to
remove the master cylinder reservoir cover,
plate and diaphragm and siphon some out
(see Pre-ride checks). If the pistons are difficult
to push back, remove the bleed valve cap,
then attach a length of clear hose to the bleed
valve and place the open end in a suitable
container, then open the valve and try again
(see Section 14). Take great care not to draw
any air into the system. If in doubt, bleed the
brake afterwards.
14 If a piston appears seized, first block or
ie hold the other piston(s) using wood or cable
2.8a Unscrew the pin. 2.8b ...and remove the pads ties, then apply the brake lever and check
whether the piston in question moves at all. If
6 Slacken the pad retaining pin (see it moves out but can’t be pushed back in the
of new pads. Note: /t is not possible to
illustration). chances are there is some hidden corrosion
degrease the friction material; if the pads
7 Unscrew the caliper mounting bolts and stopping it. If it doesn’t move at all, or to fully
are contaminated in any way they must be
slide the caliper off the disc (see illustration). replaced with new ones.
clean and inspect the pistons, disassemble .
Free the brake hose from the front fork to give and overhaul the caliper (see Section 3).
10 If the pads are in good condition clean
more freedom of movement if required (see 15 Clean off all traces of corrosion and
them carefully, using a fine wire brush which
illustration 3.2). hardened grease from the slider pins and
is completely free of oil and grease to remove
8 Unscrew and remove the pad pin, then boots. Replace the rubber boots with new
all traces of road dirt and corrosion. Using a
remove the pads, noting how they fit (see ones if they are damaged, deformed or
pointed instrument, dig out any embedded
deteriorated (see illustration 3.8). Make sure
illustrations). Note: Do not operate either particles of foreign matter. If available, spray
the slider pins are tight. Apply a smear of
brake lever while the pads are out of the with a dedicated brake cleaner to remove any
caliper. silicone-based grease to the boots and slider
dust.
pins, and where fitted to the O-ring on the pad
11 Check the condition of the brake disc (see
Inspection retaining pin.
Section 4).
9 Inspect the surface of each pad for 12 Remove all traces of corrosion from the Installation
contamination and check that the friction pad pin(s) and check for wear and damage. Note: Honda specify to use new caliper
material has not worn beyond its service Where fitted check the condition of the O-ring mounting bolts, which come pre-treated with
limit (see Chapter 1). If either pad is worn on its inner end and replace it with a new one a thread locking compound. If preferred, clean
down to, or beyond, the service limit wear if necessary. the old locking compound off the original bolts
indicator, is fouled with oil or grease, 13 Slide the caliper off the bracket (see and apply fresh compound just before fitting
or heavily scored or damaged, fit a set illustration). Clean around the exposed them.

=
2.13a Slide the caliper off the bracket 2.13b Push the pistons in using one of the 2.13c . . . this is a piston pushing tool
methods described...
 Brakes, wheels and tyres 8¢5

2.16a Correct fitting of the pad spring... 2.16b ... and pad guide 2.16c Make sure the boot lip locates
correctly

2001 to 2008 SH models, 2009-on Smear some copper grease over the pad 22 Check the operation of the front brake
SH modeis with rear drum brake, all retaining pins. Insert the pins and tighten them before riding the motorcycle.
Dylan, @ and PS models finger-tight (see illustration). 2009-on SH models with rear disc
19 Slide the caliper onto the disc making brake, Pantheon and S-wing models
16 Make sure the pad spring is correctly
sure the pads locate correctly on each side
located in the caliper, and the pad guide 23 Make sure the pad spring is correctly
(see illustration). Install the caliper mounting
is correctly located on the bracket (see located in the caliper, and the pad guide
bolts (see Note above) and tighten them to
illustrations). Slide the caliper onto the is correctly located on the bracket (see
the torque setting specified at the beginning
bracket (see illustration 2.13a) — make sure of the Chapter. Fit the brake hose onto the illustrations). Slide the caliper onto the
the rim of each boot locates correctly around front fork if displaced. bracket (see illustration) - make sure the
the base of its slider pin (see illustration). 20 Tighten the pad pins to the torque setting rim of each boot locates correctly around the
17 Lightly smear the’ back and the front edge specified at the beginning of this Chapter (see base of its slider pin (see illustration 2.16c).
of the pad backing material with copper-based illustration 2.1). Fit the pad pin plugs. 24 Lightly smear the back and the front edge
grease, making sure that none gets on the 21 Operate the brake lever until the pads of the pad backing material with copper-based
friction material. contact the disc. Check the level of fluid in the grease, making sure that none gets on the
18 Fit the pads into the caliper, making hydraulic reservoir and top-up if necessary friction material.
sure they locate correctly (see illustration). (see Pre-ride checks). 25 Fit the pads into the caliper, making sure

2.18b ... then fit the pins and tighten 2.19 Slide the caliper onto the disc and fit
finger-tight the bolts

2.23a Correct fitting of the pad spring... 2.23b ...and pad guide 2.23c Slide the caliper onto the bracket
8°6 Brakes, wheels and tyres

2.25 Fit the pads into the caliper 2.26 Slide the caliper onto the disc and fit
the bolts from the fork

they locate correctly (see illustration). Smear with compressed air and do not inhale any 4 If the caliper is being completely removed
some copper grease over the pad retaining of it. An approved filtering mask should or overhauled, unscrew the brake hose banjo
pin. Push the pads up against the spring to be worn when working on the brakes. bolt(s) and detach the hose(s), noting the
align the holes and insert the pin, then tighten Overhaul of the brake caliper must be alignment with the caliper (see illustrations).
it finger-tight (see illustration 2.8a). done in a spotlessly clean work area to Wrap plastic foodwrap around the banjo
26 Slide the caliper onto the disc making avoid contamination and possible failure union(s) and secure the hose(s) in an upright
sure the pads locate correctly on each side of the brake hydraulic system components. position to minimise fluid loss. Discard the
(see illustration). Install the caliper mounting Do not, under any circumstances, use sealing washers, as new ones must be fitted
bolts (see Note above) and tighten them to petroleum-based solvents to clean on reassembly.
the torque setting specified at the beginning brake parts. Use clean DOT 4 brake fluid, 5 Unscrew the caliper mounting bolts and
of the Chapter. Fit the brake hose onto the dedicated brake cleaner or denatured slide the caliper off the disc (see illustration
front fork if displaced. alcohol only, as described. To prevent 2.2 or 2.7). If the caliper is just being displaced,
27 Tighten the pad pin to the torque setting damage from spilled brake fluid, always secure it to the motorcycle with a cable-tie to
specified at the beginning of this Chapter (see cover paintwork when working on the avoid straining the brake hose. Note: Do not
illustration 2.6). On Pantheon models fit the braking system.
pad pin plug. operate either brake lever while the caliper is
28 On S-wing models with ABS fit the wheel Removal off the disc.
speed sensor and its wiring guide onto the 6 Ifthe caliper is being overhauled, remove the
Note: /f the caliper is being overhauled (usually brake pads (see Section 2). Also remove the
caliper bracket. due to sticking pistons or fluid leaks) read through
29 Operate the brake lever until the pads pad spring, noting how it fits (see illustration
the entire procedure first and make sure that you 2.16a or 2.23a).
contact the disc. Check the level of fluid in the
have obtained all the new parts required, including
hydraulic reservoir and top-up if necessary some new DOT4 brake fluid. Overhaul
(see Pre-ride checks).
1 If the caliper is being overhauled, remove 7 Slide the caliper off the bracket (see
30 Check the operation of the front brake
the pad retaining pin plug(s) where fitted then illustration 2.13a or 2.23c). On Pantheon
before riding the motorcycle.
slacken the brake pad retaining pin(s) (see models unscrew the caliper body bolts and
illustration 2.1 or 2.6). If the caliper is just remove the rear section.
3 Front brake caliper being displaced from the forks as part of the 8 Clean the exterior of the caliper and bracket
wheel removal procedure, the brake pads can with denatured alcohol or brake system
be left in place. cleaner. Have some clean rag ready to catch
2 Free the brake hose(s) from the front fork any spilled brake fluid. Clean off all traces
Warning: If the caliper is in need to give more freedom of movement if required of corrosion and hardened grease from the
of an overhaul al! old brake (see illustration). Slider pins and their rubber boots. Replace
fluid should be flushed from the. 3 On S-wing models with ABS unscrew the rubber boots with new ones if they are
system. Also, the dust created by the brake the wheel speed sensor mounting bolts and damaged, deformed or deteriorated (see
system may contain asbestos, which is wiring guide bolt and displace the sensor from illustration). Make sure the slider pins are
harmful to your health. Never blow it out the caliper bracket. tight.

&

3.4a Brake hose banjo bolt (arrowed) - .

3.4b Brake hose banjo bolts (arrowed) - 3.8 Check the condition of the boots
twin piston calipers triple piston calipers (arrowed) and fit new ones if necessary
 Brakes, wheels and tyres 87

elt
wees

3.10a Apply compressed air to the fluid 3.10b ... until the piston is displaced 3.12 Remove the seals and discard them
passage...

9 Make sure the bleed valve is tight. Place grease and fit them into the outer grooves in the old locking compound off the original bolts
some rag over the pistons. Place the caliper the caliper bore (see illustration). and apply fresh compound just before fitting
piston-down on the bench. 17 Lubricate the pistons with clean brake them.
10 Apply compressed air gradually and fluid and fit them, closed-end first, into the 20 If the caliper has not been overhauled,
progressively, starting with a fairly low caliper bores, taking care not to displace the refer to Steps 8 and 19 and clean, check and
pressure, to the fluid inlet in the caliper and seals (see illustration). Using your thumbs, re-grease the slider pins and boots.
allow the pistons to ease out of their bores, push the pistons all the way in, making sure 21 Fit the pad spring into the caliper, making
blocking them as required using a piece they enter the bore squarely. sure it locates correctly, and check the pad
of wood if one is moving out more than 18 On Pantheon models fit the rear section of guide is correctly located on the bracket (see
another, so they are expelled equally (see the caliper body and tighten the bolts to the illustrations 2.16a and b or 2.23a and b).
illustrations). torque setting specified at the beginning of Slide the caliper onto the bracket, making sure
11 If a piston is stuck in its bore due to the Chapter. rim of each boot locates correctly around the
corrosion, block the fluid inlet banjo bolt 19 Apply a smear of silicone-based grease base of its slider pin (see illustration 2.13a or
bore(s) using suitable bolt(s), then unscrew to the boots and slider pins. Slide the caliper 2.23c, and 2.16c).
the bleed valve and apply the air to this in the onto the bracket (see illustration 2.13a or 22 If removed, inspect and install the brake
same way -— the narrower bore will allow more 2.23c). pads (see Section 2).
air pressure to be applied to the pistons as 23 Slide the caliper onto the disc, making
less can escape. Do not try to remove a piston
Installation sure the pads locate correctly on each side
by levering it out or by using pliers or other Note: Honda specify to use new caliper (see illustration 2.19 or 2.26).
grips. If the piston has completely seized you mounting bolts, which come pre-treated with 24 Install the caliper mounting bolts (see
may have to replace the caliper with a new a thread locking compound. If preferred, clean Note above) and tighten them to the torque
one. Mark each piston and bore so they can
be returned to their original location.
12 Remove the dust seals and the piston
seals from the piston bores using a soft
wooden or plastic tool to avoid scratching the
bores (see illustration). Discard the seals as
» new ones must be fitted.
13 Clean the pistons and bores with clean
brake fluid. Blow through the fluid galleries in
the caliper with compressed air to ensure they
are clear.
Caution: Do not, under any circumstances,
use a petroleum-based solvent to clean
brake parts. 3.15a Lubricate the new piston seal with 3.15b ... then fit it into its groove
14 Inspect the pistons and bores for signs brake fluid...
of corrosion, nicks and burrs and loss of
plating. If surface defects are present, the
pistons and/or the caliper assembly must
be replaced with new ones. If the necessary
measuring equipment is available, compare
the dimensions of the caliper bore and piston
to those specified at the beginning of this
Chapter, and obtain new pistons or a new
caliper if necessary.
15 Lubricate the new piston seals with clean
brake fluid and fit them into the inner (large)
grooves in the caliper bore (see illustrations).
On models with triple pistons make sure the
correct size seals are fitted to the correct
3.17 Fit the piston and push it all the
bores — the middle piston and bore is smaller.
way in
16 Lubricate the new dust seals with silicone
 8°8 Brakes, wheels and tyres

cee
rs. d SS ae
4.2 Measure the thickness of the disc 4.3 Checking disc runout with a dial gauge 4.5 The disc is secured by four bolts
(arrowed)
setting specified at the beginning of the the gauge needle, comparing the reading Check the operation of the brake before riding
Chapter. If necessary tighten the pad pin(s) to with the limit listed in the Specifications at the motorcycle.
the torque setting specified at the beginning the beginning of this Chapter. If the runout
of this Chapter (see illustration 2.1 or 2.6). Fit is greater than the service limit, check the 5 Front brake master cylinder eS
the pad pin plug(s) where removed.
xs
wheel bearings for play (see Chapter 1). If
25 If removed, connect the brake hose(s) the bearings are worn, install new ones (see
to the caliper, making sure they are’ Correctly Section 16) and repeat this check. If the disc wy
aligned, and using new sealing washers runout is still excessive, a new disc will have
on each side of the banjo fitting(s) (see to be fitted. Warning: If the brake master
illustration 3.4a or b). Tighten the banjo A cylinder is in need of an overhaul
bolt(s) to the specified torque setting. Removal all old brake fluid should be
26 Fit the brake hose(s) onto the front fork if 4 Remove the wheel (see Section 18). flushed from the _ system.
displaced (see illustration 3.2). Caution: Don’t lay the wheel down and Overhaul must be done in a spotlessly
27 On S-wing models with ABS fit the wheel allow it to rest on the disc - the disc could clean work area to avoid contamination
speed sensor and its wiring guide onto the become warped. Set the wheel on wood and possible failure of the brake hydraulic
caliper bracket. blocks so the wheel rim supports the system components. Do not, under any
28 Top up the hydraulic reservoir with DOT 4 weight of the wheel. circumstances, use petroleum-based
brake fluid (see Pre-ride checks) and bleed the 5 If you are not replacing the disc with a solvents to clean brake parts. Use clean
system as described in Section 14. Check that new one, mark the relationship of the disc to DOT 4 brake fluid, dedicated brake cleaner
there are no fluid leaks and test the operation the wheel, so it can be installed in the same or denatured alcohol only, as described. To
of the brake before riding the motorcycle. position. Unscrew the disc retaining bolts, prevent damage from spilled brake fluid,
loosening them evenly and a little at a time in always cover paintwork when working on
4 Front brake disc a criss-cross pattern to avoid distorting the the braking system.
disc, then remove the disc (see illustration).
Removal
HEED!Note: Installation
Honda specify to use new disc
Note: /f the master cylinder is being overhauled
(usually due to sticking or poor action, or fluid
mounting bolts, which come pre-treated with leaks) read through the entire procedure first
Inspection and make sure that you have obtained all the
a thread locking compound. If preferred, clean
1 Inspect the surface of the disc for score the old locking compound off the Original bolts new parts required, including some new DOT
marks and other damage. Light scratches and apply fresh compound just before fitting 4 brake fluid.
are normal after use and won’t affect brake them. 1 Remove the handlebar covers, and then if
operation, but deep grooves and heavy score 6 Before installing the disc, make sure there not already done (according to model), remove
marks will reduce braking efficiency and is no dirt or corrosion where the disc seats on the mirror (see Chapter 9).
accelerate pad wear. If a disc is badly grooved the hub. If the disc does not sit flat when it is 2 Disconnect the wiring connectors from the
it must be replaced with a new one. bolted down, it will appear to be warped when brake light switch (see illustration).
2 The disc must not be machined or checked or when the front brake is used. 3 If the master cylinder is being overhauled,
allowed to wear down to a thickness less 7 Fit the disc on the wheel with its marked
than the service limit listed in this Chapter’s side facing out, aligning the previously applied
Specifications. The minimum thickness matchmarks (if you’re reinstalling the original
should also be stamped on the disc. Check disc).
the thickness of the disc with a Vernier gauge 8 Install the mounting bolts (see Note above)
or micrometer and replace it with a new one if and tighten them evenly and a little at a time
necessary (see illustration). in a criss-cross pattern to the torque setting
3 To check if the disc is warped, position the Specified at the beginning of this Chapter.
bike on an auxiliary stand with the front wheel Clean the disc using acetone or brake system
raised off the ground and turned to one side. cleaner. If a new disc has been installed,
Mount a dial gauge to the fork leg, with the
remove any protective coating from its working
gauge plunger touching the surface of the
surfaces and fit new brake pads.
disc about 10 mm from the outer edge (see 9 Install the front wheel (see Section 18).
illustration). Hold the handlebars against 10 Operate the brake lever several times 5.2 Disconnect the brake light switch
the stop then rotate the wheel and watch to bring the pads into contact with the disc. wires (A). Brake light switch screw (B)
 Brakes, wheels and tyres 8¢9

We

5.3 Unscrew the bolts (arrowed) and remove the master cylinder 5.4 Brake hose banjo bolt (arrowed) — note its alignment
and its clamp

follow Steps 4 to 9. If the master cylinder is just the parts out in the proper order to prevent at the beginning of this Chapter. If damage or
being displaced, follow this Step only: unscrew confusion during reassembly. wear is evident, the master cylinder must be
the master cylinder clamp bolts and remove 12 Clean the master cylinder bore with clean replaced with a new one. If the master cylinder
the back of the clamp, noting how it fits, then brake fluid. If compressed air is available, blow it is in poor condition, then the caliper should be
position the master cylinder assembly clear through the fluid galleries to ensure they are clear checked as well.
of the handlebar (see illustration). Ensure no (make sure the air is filtered and unlubricated). 14 The dust boot, circlip, washer (where
strain is placed on the hydraulic hose. Keep Caution: Do not, under any circumstances, fitted), piston, seal, cup and spring are all
the reservoir upright to prevent air entering the use a petroleum-based solvent to clean included in the master cylinder rebuild kit. Use
system. brake parts. all of the new parts, regardless of the apparent
4 Unscrew the brake hose banjo bolt and 13 Check the master cylinder bore for condition of the old ones.
detach the banjo union, noting its alignment corrosion, scratches, nicks and score marks. 15 Smear the cup and seal with new brake
with the master cylinder (see illustration).
If the necessary measuring equipment is fluid. If not already assembled fit them into
Wrap plastic foodwrap around the banjo union
available, compare the dimensions of the piston their grooves in the piston so their flared ends
and secure the hose in an upright position
and bore to those given in the Specifications will fit into the master cylinder first, according
to minimise fluid loss. Discard the sealing
washers as new ones must be fitted on
reassembly.
5 Remove the brake lever (see Chapter 7).
On models with a rear drum brake, undo the
screw securing the connecting cable holder
and displace the holder, noting how it locates
(see illustration).
6 Slacken the reservoir cover screws.
7 Unscrew the master cylinder clamp bolts and
remove the back of the clamp, noting how it fits,
then lift the master cylinder and reservoir away
from the handlebar (see illustration 5.3).
St 10S 2 ss
8 Remove the reservoir cover, diaphragm
plate and diaphragm. Drain the brake fluid 5.5 Undo the screw (arrowed) and displace
from the master cylinder and reservoir into a the cable holder
suitable container. Wipe any remaining fluid
out of the reservoir with a clean rag.
9 If required, undo the screw securing the brake
light switch to the bottom of the master cylinder
and remove the switch (see illustration 5.2).

Overhaul
10 Carefully remove the rubber boot from the
master cylinder (see illustration).
11 Depress the piston and use circlip pliers
to remove the circlip, and on 2009-on SH
models remove the washer (see illustration).
Slide out the piston assembly and the spring,
noting how they fit (see illustration). If they
5.11a Release the circlip... 5.11b ... then draw out the piston
are difficult to remove, apply low pressure
assembly and the spring
compressed air to the brake fluid outlet. Lay
8e10 Brakes, wheels and tyres

5.15a Fit the seal... 5.15b ... and the cup onto the piston... 5.15c ... making sure they are as shown

to the layout of the removed assembly (see cylinder bore with new brake fluid and slide piston, then push the piston in to compress the
illustrations). the assembly into the master cylinder (see spring and fit the circlip into its groove, making
16 Fit the spring onto the end of the piston, illustration). Make sure the lips on the cup sure it locates correctly (see illustrations).
twisting it slightly clockwise to spread the and seal do not turn inside out. On 2009-on 18 Smear some silicone grease onto the lips
coils if necessary (see illustration). SH models fit the washer. Fit the circlip, with and inside of the rubber boot. Fit the rubber
17 Lubricate the piston and the master its chamfered side facing in, over the end of the boot on the piston so its outer end lips locate
in the groove and press the boot into place in
the end of the cylinder (see illustrations).
19 Inspect the reservoir diaphragm and fit a
new one if it is damaged or deteriorated.
Installation
20 If removed, fit the brake light switch onto
the bottom of the master cylinder, making
sure the pin locates in the hole, and tighten
the screw.
21 Attach the master cylinder to the handlebar,
aligning the clamp joint with the punch mark
on the top of the handlebar, then fit the back
5.16 Fit the spring onto the end of the
of the clamp with its UP mark facing up (see
piston
illustration). Tighten the upper bolt first, then

5.17b . . making sure the lips do not turn

5.17d ... and push it into its groove
inside out

5.18b ... locating it as shown

surfaces of the
clamp with the punch mark (arrowed)
 Brakes, wheels and tyres 8¢11

amie mut

5.22 Fit the hole (arrowed) onto the pin 5.23 Connect the brake light switch wiring (arrowed)

the lower bolt, to the torque setting specified compressed air and don’t inhale any of it. the surface of the brake drum lining for scoring
at the beginning of the Chapter. An approved filtering mask should be worn and excessive wear. While light scratches are
22 On drum brake models fit the connecting when working on the brakes, expected, any heavy scoring or cracks will
cable holder, locating the hole over the pin impair braking and there is no satisfactory
(see illustration). way of removing them — the wheel should be
23 Connect the brake light switch wiring (see Check
replaced with a new one. Measure the internal
illustration). 1 Remove the rear wheel (see Section 19). diameter of the drum and replace the wheel
24 Install the brake lever (see Chapter 7). 2 Inspect the surface of the friction material on with a new one if it has worn below the service
25 Connect the brake hose to the master each shoe for contamination (see illustration). limit specified at the beginning of the Chapter
cylinder, aligning it as noted on removal, and If either shoe is fouled with oil or grease, or (see illustration).
using new sealing washers on each side of heavily scored or damaged by dirt and debris, 6 Check that the brake cam operates
the banjo fitting (see illustration). Tighten the both shoes must be replaced as a set. Note smoothly and to its full limits of travel by
banjo bolt to the torque setting specified at that it is not possible to degrease the friction operating the lever arm. Clean off all traces
the beginning of this Chapter. material; if the shoes are contaminated in any of old and hardened grease from the cam and
26 Fill the fluid reservoir with new DOT 4 way they must be replaced. pivot post — remove the shoes to do this. If
brake fluid (see Pre-ride checks). Refer to
3 If the shoes are in good condition clean the bearing surfaces of the cam are worn or
Section 14 and bleed the air from the system. them carefully, using a fine wire brush which damaged it should be replaced with a new
27 Install the mirror and handlebar covers
is completely free of oil and grease, some one. Remove the cable arm from the cam
(see Chapter 9). Check the operation of the
sandpaper, to remove all traces of road dirt shaft, noting or marking its alignment, then
brake before riding the motorcycle.
and corrosion. Using a pointed instrument, dig draw the cam out, noting the washer.
out any embedded particles of foreign matter. 7 Check the cables (See Section 7).
6 Rear drum brake lf the material appears glazed, roughen up the
surface using course sandpaper, bearing in
mind the Warning above. Shoe replacement
4 Check the condition of the brake shoe 8 Remove the wheel (See Section 19).

AN
Warning: The dust created by springs and replace them if they appear weak 9 Grasp the outer edge of each shoe and
the brake system may contain or are obviously deformed or damaged. fold them upwards and inwards to form a ‘V’,
asbestos, which is harmful to 5 Clean the brake drum lining using brake noting that they are under the pressure of the
your health. Never blow it out with cleaner or a rag soaked in solvent. Examine springs, then remove them, noting how they

%.
a.
5.25 Always use new sealing washers 6.2 Check the friction material on each 6.5 Check the drum lining, and measure the
shoe diameter to determine the extent of wear
 8¢12 Brakes, wheels and tyres

flat ends together. Position the shoes so that

the rounded end of each shoe fits around the
pivot post and the flat end against the flats on
the cam (see illustration). Fold the shoes flat,
making sure they sit correctly on each side of
the pivot and the cam and the springs remain
in place (see illustration 6.9). Operate the
lever arm to check that the cam and shoes
work correctly.
12 Install the wheel (see Section 19). Check
the operation of the brake before riding the
scooter.

7 Rear drum brake cables and

equalizer mechanism

Note: For details of cable adjustment and

lubrication see Chapter 1.
1 Remove the front handlebar covers (see
Chapter 9).
2 Undo the bolt securing the cable guide
on the underside of the drive belt cover (see
illustration).
3 Fully unscrew the adjuster nut on the
brake drum end of the cable, then draw the
cable out of the brake arm and the holder
6.11b
on the underside of the drive belt cover (see
... then connect them to the other 6.11c Locate the shoes around the post illustrations). Remove the bush from the
then against the cam arm and the return spring from between the
arm and casing, noting how it locates (see
locate around the cam and the pivot post (see 11 Apply some copper grease to the bearing
illustration). Remove the springs from the illustrations).
surfaces on the cam and pivot post. Fit the 4 Undo the screw securing the rear brake
shoes. springs onto the shoes (see illustrations) - lever to the cable linkage rod (see illustration).
10 Check the shoes and the drum as outlined make sure the shoes are the same way round, Either undo the screw and remove the brake
above. with their rounded ends together and their locking lever grommet, or remove the circlip

7.3a Unscrew the nut. 7.3b ...and draw the cable out

7.3¢ Remove the bush. 7.3d . . and the spring 7.4a Undo the screw (arrowed)
 Brakes, wheels and tyres 8¢13

7.4c ... then withdraw the pin and remove 7.4d ...and the seal
the spring and lever...

some grease to the ends of the inner cables

before fitting them, and to the lever and arm
pivot points.
10 Adjust the cable freeplay (see Chapter
1). Check the operation of the brakes before
riding the scooter.

HAYNES When fitting a new cable,

HINT,
tape the lower end of the
new cable to the upper
end of the old cable before
removing it from the machine. Slowly
pull the lower end of the old cable
7.5a Undo the screws (arrowed) and 7.56 Remove the brake lock arm (arrowed) out, guiding the new cable down into
remove the cover and spring — Dylan type shown position. Using this method will ensure
the cable is routed correctly.
from the lever pivot pin, withdraw the pin 7 Release both cable ends from the equalizer
and remove the return spring, lever and seal, housing, then draw the connector out and
according to the mechanism fitted to your detach the cable ends from it (see illustration).
model (see illustrations). Check the condition of the connect boot in 8 Rear brake pads
5 Undo the screws and remove the equalizer the housing, and replace it with a new one if
mechanism cover (see illustration). Remove
the brake lock arm and its spring, noting how
necessary.
8 Remove the front panel, floor or belly
WHY
they fit (see illustration). panels as required according to model to gain Warning: The dust created by
6 Create some slack in the connecting access to the cable run (see Chapter 9). Free A the brake system may contain
cable using the adjuster on the cable holder the cable from any clips or ties, then withdraw asbestos, which is harmful to
under the front brake master cylinder (see it carefully, noting its routing and any guides it your health. Never blow it out with
_ illustration). Release the cable end from the passes through. compressed air and don’t inhale any of it.
arm and remove the spring, then draw the 9 Install the new cables in a reverse of the An approved filtering mask should be worn
cable out of the holder. removal procedure (see Haynes Hint). Apply when working on the brakes.

7.6 Slacken the locknut (A) and turn the adjuster (B) in. Release 7.7 Draw the cables (A) out of the housing then remove and
the cable from the arm (C) and remove the spring (D) detach the connector (B)
 8e14 Brakes, wheels and tyres

8.2 Slacken the retaining pin (A), then unscrew the slider pin (B)
8.4 Caliper mounting bolts (arrowed)

Removal SH and S-wing models Inspection

1 Remove the exhaust system (see Chapter 5B). 5 Counter-hold the hex on the caliper bracket 8 Inspect the surface of each pad for
Pantheon models slider pin and slacken the slider pin bolt (see contamination and check that the friction
2 Slacken the pad retaining pin (see illustration). material has not worn beyond its service limit
illustration). Unscrew the rear slider pin. 6 Unscrew the caliper mounting bolts and (see Chapter 1). If either pad is worn down to,
3 Unscrew and remove the pad pin, then slide the caliper off the disc (see illustration). or beyond, the service limit wear indicator, is
remove the pads, noting how they fit. Note: 7 Unscrew and remove the slider pin bolt, fouled with oil or grease, or heavily scored
Do not operate the brake lever while the pads or damaged, fit a set of new pads. Note: /t is
then pivot the caliper up and slide it off the
are out of the caliper. bracket (see illustrations). Remove the pads not possible to degrease the friction material:
if the pads are contaminated in any way they
4 Unscrew the caliper mounting bolts and from the bracket, noting how they fit (see
slide the caliper off the disc (see illustration). must be replaced with new ones.
illustration). Note: Do not operate the brake 9 If the pads are in good condition clean
Slide the caliper off the bracket. lever while the pads are out of the caliper. them carefully, using a fine wire brush which

8.5 Counter-hold the hex and slacken the 8.6 Unscrew the bolts (arrowed) and slide 8.7a Unscrew the slider pin bolt...
bolt the caliper off the disc

8.7b ... then pivot the caliper up... 8.7c ... and slide it off the bracke
Be
8.7d Remove the pads from the bracke
y
|
Brakes, wheels and tyres 8¢15

is completely free of oil and grease to remove

all traces of road dirt and corrosion. Using a
pointed instrument, dig out any embedded
particles of foreign matter. If available, spray
with a dedicated brake cleaner to remove any
dust.
10 Check the condition of the brake disc (see
Section 9).
110n Pantheon models remove all traces of
corrosion from the pad pin and check it for wear
and damage. Check the condition of the O-ring
on its inner end and replace it with a new one if
necessary.
12 Clean around the exposed section of 8.12 Push the piston into the caliper
the piston to remove any dirt or debris that fitted
could cause the seals to be damaged. If new
pads are being fitted, push the piston all the
way back into the caliper to create room for
them; if the old pads are still serviceable push
the piston in a little way. To push the piston
back use finger pressure or a piece of wood
as leverage, or two pieces of wood and a
metal bar or a screwdriver inserted between
them, or use grips and a piece of wood, with
rag or card to protect the caliper body (see
illustration). Alternatively obtain a proper
piston-pushing tool from a good tool supplier
(see illustration 2.13c). If there is too much os ae f Par: f
brake fluid in the reservoir it may be necessary
8.23 Make sure the pads locate correctly 8.25 Slide the caliper onto the disc
to remove the master cylinder reservoir cover,
against the guides
plate and diaphragm and siphon some out
(see Pre-ride checks). If the piston is difficult the caliper, and the pad guide is correctly friction material. Fit the pads into the bracket
to push back, remove the bleed valve cap, located on the bracket. Slide the caliper onto (see illustration 8.7d), making sure they
then attach a length of clear hose to the bleed the bracket, making sure the rim of each boot locate correctly (see illustration).
valve and place the open end in a suitable locates correctly around the base of its slider 24 Slide the caliper onto the bracket, making
container, then open the valve and try again pin. sure rim of the boot locates correctly around
(see Section 14). Take great care not to draw 16 Slide the caliper onto the disc. Install the the base of its slider pin (see illustration
any air into the system. If in doubt, bleed the caliper mounting bolts (see Note above) and 8.7c). Pivot the caliper down onto the bracket
brake afterwards. tighten them to the torque setting specified (see illustration 8.7b). Apply some fresh
13 If the piston appears seized, apply the at the beginning of the Chapter (see illus- threadlock to the slider pin bolt threads and
brake lever and check whether the piston tration 8.4). tighten it finger-tight (see illustration 8.7a).
moves at all. If it moves out but can’t be 17 Lightly smear the back and the front edge 25 Slide the caliper onto the disc making
pushed back in the chances are there is some of the pad backing material with copper-based sure the pads locate correctly on each side
hidden corrosion stopping it. If it doesn’t grease, making sure that none gets on the (see illustration). Install the caliper mounting
move at all, or to fully clean and inspect the friction material. bolts (see Note above) and tighten them to
piston, disassemble and overhaul the caliper 18 Fit the pads into the caliper, making sure the torque setting specified at the beginning
(see Section 9). they locate correctly. Smear some copper of the Chapter. Counter-hold the hex on the
14 Clean off all traces of corrosion and grease over the pad retaining pin. Insert the caliper bracket slider pin and tighten the slider
hardened grease from the slider pins and pin, pushing the pads up against the spring to pin bolt to the specified torque (see illus-
boots. Replace the rubber boots with new align the holes, and tighten it finger-tight. tration 8.5).
ones if they are damaged, deformed or 19 Apply some fresh threadlock to the rear 26 Operate the brake lever until the pads
deteriorated (see illustration 9.6). Make slider pin threads and tighten it to the specified contact the disc. Check the level of fluid in the
sure the fitted slider pin is are tight. Apply a torque (see illustration 8.2). Tighten the pad hydraulic reservoir and top-up if necessary
smear of silicone-based grease to the boots pin to the specified torque. (see Pre-ride checks).
and slider pins, and on Pantheon models to the 20 Operate the brake lever until the pads 27 Check the operation of the front brake
O-ring on the pad retaining pin. contact the disc. Check the level of fluid in the before riding the motorcycle.
hydraulic reservoir and top-up if necessary
Installation (see Pre-ride checks). 9 Rear brake caliper
Note: Honda specify to use new caliper 21 Check the operation of the front brake
mounting bolts, which come pre-treated with before riding the motorcycle.
a thread locking compound. If preferred, clean SH and S-wing models
the old locking compound off the original bolts Warning: If the caliper is in need of
22 Clean the threads of the slider pin bolt.
and apply fresh compound just before fitting A an overhaul all old brake fluid should
Make sure the pad guides are correctly
them. located on the bracket (see illustration). be flushed from the system. Also,
Pantheon models 23 Lightly smear the back and the front edge the dust created by the brake system may
15 Clean the threads of the slider pin. Make of the pad backing material with copper-based contain asbestos, which is harmful to your
sure the pad spring is correctly located in grease, making sure that none gets on the health. Never blow it out with compressed
 8e¢16 Brakes, wheels and tyres

9.4a Brake hose banjo bolt (arrowed) - 9.4b Brake hose banjo bolt (arrowed) - SH 9.6 Check the condition of the boots
Pantheon and S-wing (arrowed) and fit new ones if necessary
air and do not inhale any of it. An approved new ones if they are damaged, deformed or bore, taking care not to displace the seals
filtering mask should be wom when working deteriorated (see illustration). Make sure the (see illustration 3.17). Using your thumbs,
on the brakes. Overhaul must be done rear slider pin is tight. push the piston all the way in, making sure it
in a spotlessly clean work area to avoid 7 Place a wad of rag over the piston and hold enters the bore squarely.
contamination and possible failure of the the caliper piston down on the bench. Apply 15 Apply a smear of silicone-based grease
brake hydraulic system components. Do not, compressed air gradually and progressively, to the boots and slider pins (see illus-
under any circumstances, use petroleum- starting with a fairly low pressure, to the fluid tration 9.6).
based solvents to clean brake parts. Use clean inlet on the caliper body and allow the piston
DOT 4 brake fluid, dedicated brake cleaner to ease out of its bore (see illustrations 3.10a Installation
or denatured alcohol only, as described. To and b). Note: Honda specify to use new caliper
prevent damage from spilled brake fluid, 8 If the piston is stuck in its bore due to mounting bolts, which come pre-treated with
always cover paintwork when working on the corrosion, find a suitable bolt to block the a thread locking compound. If preferred, clean
braking system. fluid inlet banjo bolt bore and thread it in, then the old locking compound off the original bolts
unscrew the bleed valve and apply the air and apply fresh compound just before fitting
Removal
to this in the same way — the narrower bore them.
Note: /f the caliper is being overhauled (usually will allow more air pressure to be applied to 16 If the caliper was just displaced, refer
que to a sticking piston or fluid leak) read through the piston as less can escape. Do not try to to the relevant steps in Section 8 for your
the entire procedure first and make sure that you remove the piston by levering it out or by model and make sure the pads and all caliper
have obtained all the new parts required, including using pliers or other grips. If the piston has components are in good functioning order.
some new DOT4 brake fluid. completely seized you may have to replace Slide the caliper onto the disc making sure
1 Remove the exhaust system (see Chap- the caliper with a new one. the pads locate correctly on each side (see
ter 5A). 9 Remove the dust seal and the piston seal illustration 8.25). Install the caliper mounting
2 If required unscrew the brake hose guide from the piston bore using a soft wooden or bolts (see Note above) and tighten them to
bolts and displace it from the swingarm. plastic tool to avoid scratching the bores (see the torque setting specified at the beginning
3 If the caliper is just being displaced, illustration 3.12). Discard the seals as new of the Chapter.
unscrew the caliper mounting bolts and slide ones must be fitted. 17 If the caliper has been overhauled refer to
the caliper off the disc (see illustration 8.6). 10 Clean the piston and bore with clean Section 8, Steps 15 to 21 for Pantheon models
Tie or support it clear, making sure no strain is brake fluid of the specified type. Blow through and Steps 22 to 27 for SH and S-wing models,
placed on the hose. Note: Do not operate the the fluid galleries in the caliper to ensure they and install the brake pads (see Section 6).
brake lever while the caliper is off the disc. are Clear. 18 If detached, connect the brake hose to
4 If the caliper is being completely removed Caution: Do not, under any circumstances, the caliper, aligning it as noted on removal,
or overhauled, unscrew the brake hose banjo use a petroleum-based solvent to clean and using new sealing washers on each side
bolt and detach the banjo union, noting its brake parts. of the fitting. Tighten the banjo bolt to the
alignment with the caliper (see illustrations). 11 Inspect the caliper bore and piston for torque setting specified at the beginning of
Wrap plastic foodwrap around the banjo union signs of corrosion, nicks and burrs and loss the Chapter (see illustration 9.4a or b).
and secure the hose in an upright position of plating. If surface defects are present, 19 If detached fit the rear brake hose guide
to minimise fluid loss. Discard the sealing the piston and/or the caliper assembly must onto the swingarm.
washers as new ones must be fitted on be replaced with new ones. If the necessary 20 Top up the hydraulic reservoir with DOT 4
reassembly. measuring equipment is available, compare brake fluid (see Pre-ride checks) and bleed the
5 If the caliper is being overhauled, remove the dimensions of the caliper bore and piston system as described in Section 14. Check that
the brake pads (see Section 8, Steps 2 to 4 for to those specified at the beginning of this there are no fluid leaks and test the operation
Pantheon models and Steps 5 to 7 for SH and Chapter, and obtain a new piston or a new of the brake before riding the motorcycle.
S-wing models). Caliper if necessary.
Overhaul
12 Lubricate the new piston seal with clean 10 Rear brake disc —
brake fluid and fit it into the inner (large)
6 Clean the exterior of the caliper and bracket

WED
groove in the caliper bore (see illustrations
with denatured alcohol or brake system 3.15a and b).
cleaner. Have some clean rag ready to catch 13 Lubricate the new dust seal with silicone
any spilled brake fluid. Clean off all traces grease and fit it into the outer groove in the Inspection
of corrosion and hardened grease from the caliper bore (see illustration 3.16).
slider pins on the bracket and from the boots 1 Refer to Section 4 of this Chapter, noting
14 Lubricate the piston with clean brake fluid
in the caliper. Replace the rubber boots with that the dial gauge should be attached to the
and fit it, closed-end first, into the Caliper
swingarm.
 Brakes, wheels and tyres 8¢17

_ Removal
2 Remove the wheel (see Section 19).
Caution: Don’t lay the wheel down and
allow it to rest on the disc - it could become
warped. Set the wheel on wood blocks so
the wheel rim supports the weight of the
wheel.
3 If you are not replacing the disc with a
new one, mark the relationship of the disc to
the wheel so it can be installed in the same
position. Unscrew the disc retaining bolts,
loosening them evenly and a little at a time in
a criss-cross pattern to avoid distorting the
disc, then remove the disc. 11.2 Disconnect the four wiring
connectors (arrowed) remove the master cylinder and its clamp
Installation
and make sure that you have obtained all the 12 Clean the master cylinder bore with clean
Note: Honda specify to use new disc mounting
new parts required, including some new DOT brake fluid. If compressed air is available,
bolts, which come pre-treated with a thread
4 brake fluid. blow it through the fluid galleries to ensure
locking compound. If preferred, clean the old
locking compound off the original bolts and 1 Remove the handlebar covers, and then if they are clear (make sure the air is filtered and
apply fresh compound just before fitting them. not already done (according to model) remove unlubricated).
the mirror (see Chapter 9). Caution: Do not, under any circumstances,
4 Before installing the disc, make sure there
is no dirt or corrosion where the disc seats on 2 Disconnect the wiring connectors from the use a petroleum-based solvent to clean
the hub. If the disc does not sit flat when it is brake light switch and starter inhibitor switch brake parts.
bolted down, it will appear to be warped when (see illustration). 13 Check the master cylinder bore for
checked or when the rear brake is used. 3 If the master cylinder is being overhauled, corrosion, scratches, nicks and score marks.
5 Install the disc on the wheel with its marked follow Steps 4 to 9. If the master cylinder is just If the necessary measuring equipment
side facing out, aligning the previously applied being displaced, follow this Step only: unscrew is available, compare the dimensions of
matchmarks (if you’re reinstalling the original the master cylinder clamp bolts and remove the piston and bore to those given in the
disc). the back of the clamp, noting how it fits, then Specifications at the beginning of this Chapter.
6 Install the mounting bolts (see Note above) position the master cylinder assembly clear If damage or wear is evident, the master
and tighten them evenly and a little at a time of the handlebar (see illustration). Ensure no cylinder must be replaced with a new one. If
in a criss-cross pattern to the torque setting strain is placed on the hydraulic hose. Keep the master cylinder is in poor condition, then
specified at the beginning of this Chapter. the reservoir upright to prevent air entering the the caliper should be checked as well.
Clean the disc using acetone or brake system system. 14 The dust boot, circlip, piston, seal, cup and
cleaner. If a new disc has been installed, 4 Remove the brake lever (See Chapter 7). spring are all included in the master cylinder
remove any protective coating from its working 5 Slacken the reservoir cover screws. rebuild kit. Use all of the new parts, regardless
surfaces and fit new brake pads. 6 Unscrew the brake hose banjo bolt and of the apparent condition of the old ones.
7 Install the rear wheel (see Section 19). detach the banjo union, noting its alignment 15 Smear the cup and seal with new brake
8 Operate the brake lever several times to with the master cylinder (see illustration 5.4). fluid. If not already assembled fit the seal into
bring the pads into contact with the disc. Wrap plastic foodwrap around the banjo union its groove in the piston so its flared ends will
Check the operation of the brake before riding and secure the hose in an upright position fit into the master cylinder first, according to
the motorcycle. to minimise fluid loss. Discard the sealing the layout of the removed assembly.
washers as new ones must be fitted on 16 Lubricate the piston and the master
reassembly. cylinder bore with new brake fluid
11 Rear brake master cylinder SN
7 Unscrew the master cylinder clamp bolts and 17 Fit the dished side of the cup onto the
é SN remove the back of the clamp, noting how it fits, narrow end of the spring. Fit the wide end of
“ then lift the master cylinder and reservoir away the spring into the master cylinder. Locate the
from the handlebar (see illustration 11.3). end of the piston against the cup and push
Warning: If the brake master 8 Remove the reservoir cover, diaphragm the cup and piston in, making sure the cup
A cylinder is in need of an overhaul plate and diaphragm. Drain the brake fluid and seal lips do not turn inside out. Fit the
all old brake fluid should be flushed from the master cylinder and reservoir into a circlip, with its chamfered side facing in, over
from the system. Overhaul must be done suitable container. Wipe any remaining fluid the end of the piston, and fit it into its groove
in a spotlessly clean work area to avoid out of the reservoir with a clean rag. in the master cylinder, making sure it locates
contamination and possible failure of the 9 If required, undo the screws securing the brake correctly (see illustrations 5.17c and d).
brake hydraulic system components. Do not, light/inhibitor switch to the bottom of the master 18 Smear some silicone grease onto the
under any circumstances, use petroleum- cylinder and remove the switch. lips and inside of the rubber boot. Fit the
based solvents to clean brake parts. Use rubber boot onto the piston so its outer end
clean DOT 4 brake fluid, dedicated brake Overhaul lips locate in the groove and press the boot
cleaner or denatured alcohol only, as 10 Carefully remove the rubber boot from.the into place in the end of the cylinder (see
described. To prevent damage from spilled master cylinder (see illustration 5.10). illustrations 5.18a and b).
brake fluid, always cover paintwork when 11 Depress the piston and use circlip pliers to 19 Inspect the reservoir diaphragm and fit a
working on the braking system. remove the circlip (see illustration 5.114). Slide new one it if it is damaged or deteriorated.
out the piston assembly and the spring, noting
Removal how they fit. If they are difficult to remove, apply Installation
Note: /f the master cylinder is being overhauled low pressure compressed air to the brake fluid 20 If removed, fit the brake light/inhibitor
(usually due to sticking or poor action, or fluid outlet. Lay the parts out in the proper order to switch onto the bottom of the master cylinder
leaks) read through the entire procedure first prevent confusion during reassembly. and tighten the screws.
 8e18 Brakes, wheels and tyres

12.1a Delay valve (arrowed) — Pantheon 12.1b Delay valve (arrowed) — S-wing 14.2 Set-up for bleeding the brakes

21 Attach the master cylinder to the 5 Unscrew the valve mounting bolts and ABS unit are held by nuts (see illustrations
handlebar, aligning the clamp joint with the remove the valve. 12.1a and b). There are no sealing washers.
punch mark on the top of the handlebar, then Unscrew the nuts to separates the hoses
Installation
fit the back of the clamp with its UP mark from the pipes and to detach the pipes.
facing up (see illustration 11.3). Tighten the 6 Installation is the reverse of removal. Use When refitting them tighten the nuts to the
upper bolt first, then the lower bolt, to the a new sealing washer on each side of each specified torque setting if the correct tools are
torque setting specified at the beginning of brake hose union and make sure the hoses available.
the Chapter. are correctly aligned. Tighten the brake hose 6 Flush the old brake fluid from the system,
22 Connect the brake hose to the master banjo bolts and the pipe union nut to the refill with new DOT 4 brake fluid (See Pre-ride
cylinder, aligning it as noted on removal, and specified torque, noting that to tighten the checks) and bleed the air from the system (see
using new sealing washers on each side of nuts you will need a special bit that is like Section 14).
the banjo fitting. Tighten the banjo bolt to the the end of an open spanner with a socket to 7 Check the operation of the brakes before
torque setting specified at the beginning of attach the torque wrench. riding the motorcycle.
this Chapter. 7 Bleed the hydraulic system following the
23 Install the brake lever (see Chapter 7). procedure in Section 14. Check the operation 14 Brake system bleeding and &
24 Connect the brake light/inhibitor switch of both front and rear brakes carefully before fluid change x
wiring (see illustration 11.2). riding the motorcycle.
25 Fill the fluid reservoir with new DOT 4 R
brake fluid (see Pre-ride checks). Refer to 13 Brake hoses, pipes and LG
Section 14 and bleed the air from the system. fittings N Note: /f required use a commercially available
26 Install the mirror and handlebar covers
(see Chapter 9). Check the operation of the x vacuum-type brake bleeding tool. If bleeding
the system using the conventional method
brake before riding the motorcycle. does not work sufficiently well, it is advisable
Inspection to obtain a bleeder and repeat the procedure
12 Hydraulic system delay a detailed below, following the manufacturers
1 see Chapter 1, Section 4. instructions for using the tool.
valve x
wy Removal and installation Bleeding
2 The brake hoses have a banjo union on 1 Bleeding the brakes is simply the process
1 The delay valve is fitted to models with an each end. Cover the surrounding area with of removing air from the brake fluid reservoir,
hydraulic rear brake and is part of the linked plenty of rags and unscrew the banjo bolt at the hoses/pipes and the brake caliper(s).
braking system (see illustrations). It receives each end of the hose, noting the alignment Bleeding is necessary whenever a brake
the hydraulic pressure from the rear master of the union (see illustrations 3.4a or b, 5.4, system hydraulic connection is loosened, after
cylinder and distributes it to the rear and front and 9.4a or b). Free the hose from any clips a component or hose is replaced with a new
calipers. The only maintenance is to check for or guides and remove it, noting its routing. one, or when the master cylinder or caliper
leaks around the hose and pipe unions. Discard the sealing washers. Note: Do not is overhauled. Leaks in the system may also
operate the brake lever or pedal while a brake allow air to enter, but leaking brake fluid will
Removal hose is disconnected. reveal their presence and warn you of the
2 On 2009-on SH models remove the front 3 Position the new hose, making sure it isn’t need for repair.
inner cover (see Chapter 9). On Pantheon twisted or otherwise strained, and ensure 2 To bleed the brakes, you will need some
models remove the headlight cover (see that it is correctly routed through any clips or new DOT 4 brake fluid, a length of clear
Chapter 9). On S-wing models remove the guides and is clear of all moving components. flexible hose, a small container partially filled
front cover (see Chapter 9). 4 Check that the fittings align correctly, then with clean brake fluid, some rags, a spanner
3 Place a wad of rag under and around the install the banjo bolts, using a new sealing to fit the brake caliper bleed valve, and help
delay valve to catch any spilled brake fluid. washer on each side of the union (see from an assistant (see illustration). Bleeding
4 Unscrew the brake hose banjo bolt(s) and illustration 5.25). Tighten the banjo bolts to kits that include the hose, a one-way valve
brake pipe gland nut and detach the brake the torque setting specified at the beginning and a container are available relatively cheaply
hose(s) and pipe from the valve. Wrap plastic of this Chapter. from a good auto store, and simplify the task.
foodwrap around the banjo union(s) and pipe 5 On models with a rear disc brake, and on 3 Cover painted components to prevent
end and secure the hose(s) in an upright S-wing models with ABS, the hoses join to damage in the event that brake fluid is spilled.
position to minimise fluid loss. Discard the pipes that connect the system components. 4 Refer to Pre-ride checks and remove
hose sealing washers as new ones must be The joints between the hoses and pipes, and the reservoir cover, diaphragm plate and
fitted on reassembly. where the pipes connect to the delay valve and diaphragm and slowly pump the brake lever
 Brakes, wheels and tyres 8¢19

je cot Bo We rs
14.6a Front brake caliper bleed valve (arrowed) - models with 14.6b Front brake caliper bleed valves (arrowed) - models with
rear drum brake rear disc brake

a few times, until no air bubbles can be seen

floating up from the holes in the bottom of the
reservoir. This bleeds the air from the master
cylinder end of the line. Temporarily refit the
reservoir cover.
5 On models with a rear disc brake, when
bleeding the front brake system do so via the
upper bleed valve on the front caliper, and
when bleeding the-rear/combined system
do so via the lower bleed valve on the front
caliper and the bleed valve on the rear caliper.
Note that when pumping the rear brake lever
some resistance may be felt — this is due to 2

the function of the delay valve and is not a 14.6c Rear brake caliper bleed valve 14.6d Fit a ring spanner onto the valve
problem, but make sure to overcome the (arrowed)
resistance and pull the lever all the way back. when applied, topping the reservoir up when new brake fluid, then carefully pump the brake
6 Pull the dust cap off the bleed valve (see necessary. On completion, disconnect the lever three or four times and hold it in while
illustrations). lf using a ring spanner fit it onto opening the caliper bleed valve (see Step 5).
hose, then tighten the bleed valve to the
the valve (see illustration). Attach one end of torque setting specified at the beginning of When the valve is opened, brake fluid will flow
the hose to the bleed valve and, if not using a this Chapter and fit the dust cap. out of the caliper into the clear tubing, and the
kit, submerge the other end in the clean brake lever will move toward the handlebar, or the
fluid in the container (see illustration 14.2). WYNatia-4 ‘fit is not possible to produce pedal will move down.
a firm feel to the lever, the 14 Tighten the bleed valve, then release
MPNaNis-y 10 avoid damaging the bleed HINT fluid may be aerated. Let the brake lever gradually. Keep the reservoir
valve during the procedure,
the brake fiuid in the system topped-up with new fluid to above the LOWER
| loosen it and then tighten
stabilise for a few hours and then repeat level at all times or air may enter the system
_ it temporarily with a ring the procedure when the tiny bubbles in and greatly increase the length of the task.
| spanner before attaching the hose. the system have settled out. Repeat the process until new fluid can be
With the hose attached, the valve can
seen emerging from the caliper bleed valve.
then be opened and closed either with
an open-ended spanner, or by leaving
the ring spanner located on the valve
10 Top-up the reservoir, then install the PAN AN) ==) Old brake fluid is invariably
diaphragm, diaphragm plate, and cover (see much darker in colour than
| and fitting the hose above it. Pre-ride checks). Wipe up any spilled brake new fluid, making it easy to
fluid. Check the entire system for fluid leaks. see when all old fluid has been
7 Check the fluid level in the reservoir. Do not 41 Check the operation of the brakes before expelled from the system.
allow the fluid level to drop below the lower riding the motorcycle.
mark during the procedure.
8 Carefully pump the brake lever three or four Fluid change 15 Disconnect the hose, then tighten the
times and hold it in while opening the bleed 12 Changing the brake fluid is a similar bleed valve to the specified torque setting and
valve. When the valve is opened, brake fluid process to bleeding the brakes and requires fit the dust cap.
will flow out of the caliper into the clear tubing, the same materials plus a suitable tool (such 16 Top-up the reservoir, then install the
and the lever will move toward the handlebar. as a syringe) for siphoning the fluid out of the diaphragm, diaphragm plate, and cover (see
If there is air in the system there will be air reservoir. Also ensure that the container is Pre-ride checks). Wipe up any spilled brake
bubbles in the brake fluid coming out of the large enough to take all the old fluid when it is fluid. Check the entire system for fluid leaks.
caliper. flushed out of the system. 17 Check the operation of the brakes before
9 Tighten the bleed valve, then release the 13 Follow Steps 3 and 6, then remove the riding the motorcycle.
brake lever gradually. Repeat the process reservoir cap, diaphragm plate and diaphragm
until no air bubbles are visible in the brake and siphon the old fluid out of the reservoir.
Draining the system for overhaul
fluid leaving the caliper, and the lever is firm Wipe the reservoir clean. Fill the reservoir with 18 Draining the brake fluid is again a similar
 8°20 Brakes, wheels and tyres

15.1 ABS component location and system layout

1 Front brake master cylinder 4 Front wheel pulse ring 7 Rear brake master cylinder 9 Rear wheel speed senor
2 Front brake caliper 5 ABS control unit 8 Rear brake caliper 10 Rear wheel pulse ring
3 Front wheel speed sensor 6 Delay valve

process to bleeding the brakes. The quickest 3 If the indicator light remains on, or starts double digit fault code. For example, two long
and easiest way is to use a commercially flashing while the machine is being ridden, (1.3 sec) flashes followed by three short (0.3 sec)
available vacuum-type brake bleeding tool there is a fault in the system and the ABS flashes indicates the fault code number 23. If
- follow the manufacturer’s instructions. function will be switched off — the brakes will there is more than one fault code stored, there
Otherwise follow the procedure described still function but in normal mode. will be a 3.6 second gap before the other codes
above for changing the fluid, but quite simply 4 If a fault is indicated, a fault code will be are revealed, and the codes will be revealed in
do not put any new fluid into the reservoir — stored in the control unit’s memory. The order, starting with the lowest and finishing with
the system fills itself with air instead. memory is only capable of recording one fault the highest. Once all codes have been revealed,
at a time — if there are multiple faults the first the ECU will continuously run through the
15 ABS (Anti-lock brake one must be diagnosed, rectified and the code code(s) stored in its memory, revealing each one
system) erased before the next one will be indicated. in turn with a short gap between them. The fault
However it can store and display more than codes are shown in the table.
one fault code if these are generated at 8 Turn the ignition OFF and remove the jump wire
different instances of the bike being used. when the code or codes have been recorded.
Operation and fault finding 5 Access the fault code or codes as follows. 9 Once the fault has been corrected, erase
1 The ABS prevents the wheels from locking up Make sure the ignition switch is OFF. Remove
under hard braking or on uneven road surfaces the maintenance access panel to the battery
(see illustration). A sensor on each wheel and fusebox (see Chapter 9).
transmits information about the speed of rotation 6 Locate the ABS service check connector
to the ABS control unit; if the unit senses that a and connect a jump wire between the brown/
wheel is about to lock, it releases brake pressure white and green/black wire terminals (see
to that wheel momentarily, preventing a skid. illustration). Turn the ignition switch ON and
2 The ABS is self-checking and is activated observe the warning light in the instrument
when the ignition switch is turned on — the cluster. The warning light comes on for 2
ABS indicator light in the instrument cluster seconds, then goes out for 3.6 seconds. After
will come on and will remain on until road that, if there are no stored fault codes, the
speed increases above 6 mph (10 kph) at light will come on and stay on. If there are one
which point, if the ABS is normal, the light will or more stored fault codes, the light will flash.
go off. Note: /f the ABS indicator light does 7 The light emits long (1.3 second) and short 15.6 Bridge the connector terminals in the
not come on initially there could be a fault in (0.3 second) flashes to give out the fault code. A ABS service check connector (arrowed) as
the instrument cluster — see Chapter 10. long flash is used to indicate the first digit of the shown to access fault codes
 Brakes, wheels and tyres 8¢21
poe i a a

the fault code(s) as follows: connect the jump 10 Turn the ignition switch OFF and remove System checks
wire between the brown/white and green/ the jump wire when the code or codes have
black wire terminals in the ABS service check 11 Ifa fault is indicated in the ABS, first check
been erased. Fit the access panel and install
connector as before. Turn the ignition witch ON that the battery is fully charged, then check
the seat (see Chapter 9). Check that the ABS
while squeezing the front brake lever. The ABS the ABS fuses (see Chapter 10).
iS operating normally (see Step 2).
light should come on for 2 seconds, then go 12 The ABS unit is a sealed component
Note: The ABS indicator may diagnose a
out. When the light goes out release the brake fault if tyre sizes other than those specified containing the modulator (with motor and
lever immediately. The light should come on by Honda are fitted, if the tyre pressures are solenoid valves) and the electronic control
again. When the light comes on squeeze the incorrect, if there is tyre or wheel damage, if unit. Individual components are not available
brake lever immediately. The light should go the machine has been run continuously over and no repairs can be made.
out. When the light goes out release the brake bumpy roads, if the front wheel is raised whilst 13 Refer to Chapter 10, Section 2, for
lever immediately. The code(s) should now be riding (wheelie) or if, for some reason, the general electrical fault finding procedures and
erased, and the light should flash twice then machine is on an auxiliary stand with the engine equipment.
stay on. If it does not flash code erasure has running and the rear wheel turning. Strong 14 If, after a thorough check, the source of
not been successful, in which case try again. If electromagnetic radio wave interference can a fault has not been identified, have the ABS
the light continues to flash the system is faulty. also cause a problem. system tested by a Honda dealer.

|Faultycomponentorsystem = tw __ |Possible causes

Indicator light does not come on with fanitok ewhoh No voltage at instrument cluster
Faulty wiring or wiring connector
Faulty ABS indicator light
Faulty ABS unit
Indicator lightstaysonafter self diagnosis _ |No voltage at control —
| Blown ABS main fuse—
Faulty wiring or ae connector
| Faulty ABS unit— : oe
| Faultyj instrument cluster orwiring Le
Front wheel speed sensor Faulty wiring or wiring connector
Faulty sensor
Electromagnetic interference
| Faulty wiring or wiring connectora
_| Faulty sensor —
aS Electromagnetic intederenes.
Front wheel speed sensor | Faulty wiring or wiring connector
Front wheel pulse ring Damaged pulse ring
Faulty sensor
| Faulty wiring or‘wiring connector
c
: Damaged pulse ring_ :

~ |Rear wheel lock oo at

Riding ee Note after Step 10)_
ABS motor lock Blown ABS fuse
Faulty wiring or wiring connector

TS
melasicko
Faulty ABS unit
|Blown ABS fuse— oo
Faulty wiring or wiring connector
Faulty ABS unit _
RBar infor stieion Blown ABS fuse
Faulty wiring or wiring connector
Faulty ABS unit

ee _| Blown ABS fuse —

Faulty wiring or wiring connector.
:

eae aout ~ input Wolebe too low Blown ABS fuse

Faulty wiring or wiring connector
Faulty ABS unit
E || Power circuit~inputvoltage toohigh _|Blown ABS fuse
_|Faulty wiring or wiring conheotor bak
| Faulty ABS unit 2k
Wrong tyre size(s), pressures, or fyrefwines! aaniage (see
Note after Step 10)
ABSelectronic
control unit(ECU) _|Faulty ABS unit _
SSL EEE TWA PIS
aE ESTs eae
ce Faulty
8e22 Brakes, wheels and tyres

No code displayed - indicator light follow the procedure in Step 9 to reset sensor cover bolts and remove the cover.
does not come on the control unit memory, then activate the Trace the wheel sensor wiring to the connector
self-checking procedure. If the fault code _is and disconnect it. Check for continuity first
15 First check the instrument cluster wiring
the result of unusual riding or conditions and in the pink/green wire between the control
connector, power supply and earth connection
the ABS is normal, the indicator light will go unit wiring connector and the sensor wiring
(see Chapter 10).
off. Otherwise perform the following checks. connector and then in the green/red wire —
16 Remove the front fairing panel (see
23 Measure the air gap between the front there should be continuity in each wire. If not
Chapter 9). Disconnect the ABS unit wiring
wheel speed sensor and the pulse ring with a locate and repair the break.
connector. Turn the ignition switch ON, and
feeler gauge, then compare the result with the 29 If there is continuity in the wiring next
check the ABS indicator light —- if the light
Specification at the beginning of this Chapter. check for continuity between each terminal
comes on the control unit is faulty and must
The gap is not adjustable - if it is outside the on the sensor side of the connector and
be replaced with a new one.
specification, check that the sensor and pulse earth (ground). If there is continuity in either
17 If the light does not come on, disconnect
ring fixings are tight, that the components of the wires the sensor is faulty and must be
the instrument cluster wiring connector and
are not damaged and that there is no dirt or replaced with a new one.
check for continuity in the red/black wire
anything else on the sensor tip or between the 30 If all the checks have failed to identify the
between the control unit and instrument wiring
slots in the pulse ring. If any of the components fault, replace the wheel sensor with a known
connectors. If there is no continuity locate and
are damaged they must be replaced with new good one. Connect all wiring connectors
repair the break in the wire or the connector
terminal. If there is continuity the instrument ones. then follow the procedure in Step 9 to reset
cluster is faulty (see Chapter 10). 24 Ifallis good so far remove the front fairing the control unit memory, then activate the
panel and the inner cover panel (see Chap- self-checking procedure. If the indicator light
No code displayed - indicator light ter 9). Disconnect the ABS unit wiring is no longer flashing, the original sensor was
stays on connector. Trace the wheel sensor wiring faulty. If the fault code reappears the ABS unit
18 First check the ABS main (10A) fuse (see to the green connector and disconnect it. is faulty.
Chapter 10). If the main fuse has blown remove Check for continuity first in the pink/black
the fuse and check for continuity to earth in wire between the control unit wiring connector Fault codes 31, 32, 33, 34, 37 and 38
the black/yellow wire from the fusebox. If and the sensor wiring connector and then
there is continuity a short circuit has blown the 31 Erase the fault code (see Step 9). Start
in the green/orange wire — there should be
fuse — locate and repair the break in the wire the engine and go for a short ride so the ABS
continuity in each wire. If not locate and repair
or the connector terminal. If not it is possible the break. system performs its self-diagnosis. If the
the fuse has blown for no reason other than it 25 If there is continuity in the wiring next
ABS indicator light stays off, the fault was
had had enough. Replace the fuse with a new temporary. If the fault code is displayed again
check for continuity between each terminal
one the ABS unit is faulty.
on the sensor side of the connector and
19 If the fuse is good remove the front fairing earth (ground). If there is continuity in either
panel (see Chapter 9). Disconnect the ABS of the wires the sensor is faulty and must be Fault codes 51, 52 or 53
unit wiring connector. Turn the ignition switch replaced with a new one. 32 First check the ABS motor (30A) fuse (see
ON, and check for battery voltage between 26 If all the checks have failed to identify the Chapter 10). If the fuse has blown remove the
the black/yellow and green wire terminals in fault, replace the wheel sensor with a known fuse and check for continuity to earth in the
the loom side of the connector. If there is no good one. Connect all wiring connectors red wire from the fusebox. If there is continuity
voltage check the black/yellow wire between then follow the procedure in Step 9 to reset a short circuit has blown the fuse — locate and
the connector and the fusebox for continuity, the control unit memory, then activate the repair the break in the wire or the connector
then check for continuity to earth in the green self-checking procedure. If the indicator light terminal. If not it is possible the fuse has blown
wire. There should be continuity in each case is no longer flashing, the original sensor was for no reason other than it had had enough.
— if not locate and repair the break in the wire faulty. If the fault code reappears the ABS unit Replace the fuse with a new one.
or the connector terminal. is faulty. 33 If the fuse is good remove the front fairing
20 If there is voltage turn the ignition switch panel (see Chapter 9). Disconnect the ABS
Fault codes 13,14, 23, and 43
OFF and check for continuity in the brown/
Note: Before carrying out any of the checks, unit wiring connector. Check there is battery
white wire between the ABS unit connector
follow the procedure in Step 9 to reset voltage at all times (i.e. with the ignition On
and the service check connector. There should
the control unit memory, then activate the and OFF) between the red and green wire
be continuity — if not locate and repair the
self-checking procedure. If the fault code is terminals in the loom side of the connector. If
break in the wire or the connector terminal.
the result of unusual riding or conditions and there is no voltage check the red wire between
21 If there is continuity short between the red/
the ABS is normal, the indicator light will go the connector and the battery for continuity,
black wire terminal in the instrument cluster
off. Otherwise perform the following checks. then check for continuity to earth in the green
wiring connector, with it still connected, and
27 Measure the air gap between the rear wire. There should be continuity in each case
ground using a jumper wire, then turn the
wheel speed sensor and the pulse ring with a — if not locate and repair the break in the wire
ignition switch ON and check the indicator
feeler gauge, then compare the result with the or the connector terminal.
light. If the light does not go out the instrument 34 If there is voltage erase the fault code (see
cluster is faulty (see Chapter 10). Specification at the beginning of this Chapter.
The gap is not adjustable — if it is outside the Step 9). Start the engine and go for a short
22 If the light goes out, turn the ignition OFF ride so the ABS system performs its self-
and remove the jumper wire. disconnect specification, check that the sensor and pulse
ring fixings are tight, that the components diagnosis. If the ABS indicator light stays off,
the instrument cluster and ABS unit wiring the fault was temporary. If the fault code is
connectors and check for continuity in the are not damaged and that there is no dirt or
anything else on the sensor tip or between the displayed again the ABS unit is faulty.
red/black wire between them. If there is no
continuity locate and repair the break in the slots in the pulse ring. If any of the components
wire or the connector terminal. If there is are damaged they must be replaced with new Fault code 56
continuity the ABS unit is faulty. ones. 35 First check the ABS FSR (830A) fuse (see
28 If all is good so far remove the front fairing Chapter 10). If the fuse has blown remove
Fault codes 11,12, 21, 41 and 42 panel (see Chapter 9). Disconnect the ABS the fuse and check for continuity to earth in
Note: Before carrying out any of the checks, unit wiring connector. Unscrew the oxygen the black wire from the fusebox. If there is
 Brakes, wheels and tyres 8¢23
a I an

continuity a short circuit has blown the fuse Fault code 81 Rear pulse ring
- locate and repair the break in the wire or the
43 Erase the fault code (see Step 9). Start 61 Remove the rear wheel (see Section 19).
connector terminal. If not it is possible the fuse
the engine and go for a short ride so the ABS 62 Undo the bolts securing the ring and lift it
has blown for no reason other than it had had
system performs its self-diagnosis. If the off.
enough. Replace the fuse with a new one.
ABS indicator light stays off, the fault was 63 Ensure there is no dirt or corrosion where
36 If the fuse is good remove the front fairing
temporary. If the fault code is displayed again the ring seats on the hub - if the ring does not
panel (see Chapter 9). Disconnect the ABS
the ABS unit is faulty. sit flat when it is installed the sensor air gap
unit wiring connector. Check there is battery
voltage at all times (i.e. with the ignition On will be incorrect. Clean the threads of the bolts
and OFF) between the black and green wire and apply a non-permanent thread locking
Component removal and
terminals in the loom side of the connector. compound (or alternatively use new bolts from
installation
If there is no voltage check the black wire Honda which come pre-treated) and tighten
between the connector and the fusebox and Front wheel speed sensor them to the torque setting specified at the
the red wire between the fusebox and the beginning of the Chapter.
44 Remove the front cover (see Chapter 9).
battery for continuity, then check for continuity 64 Install the rear wheel (see Sec-
Unscrew the cable guard bolts, then release
to earth in the green wire. There should be tion 19). Check the speed sensor air gap (see
and remove the guard, noting how it locates.
continuity in each case — if not locate and Step 27).
45 Trace the wheel sensor wiring to the green
repair the break in the wire or the connector connector and disconnect it. Undo the bolts ABS unit
terminal. securing the sensor wiring guides, and release Note: Before the modulator can be removed
37 If there is voltage erase the fault code (see the wiring from any other clips or ties, then from the bike, the brake fluid must be drained
Step 9). Start the engine and go for a short feed it down to the sensor, noting its routing. from the hydraulic system. When refilling and
ride so the ABS system performs its self- 46 Unscrew the sensor bolts and remove it bleeding the ABS-equipped brake system it is
diagnosis. If the ABS indicator light stays off, from the caliper bracket. essential to use a vacuum-type brake bleeder
the fault was temporary. If the fault code is 47 Clean the sensor head and check it for kit. Alternatively, removal and installation of the
displayed again the ABS unit is faulty. damage. control unit should be entrusted to a Honda
Fault codes 61 and 62 48 Install the sensor and tighten the mounting dealer.
bolts. Feed the wiring up to the connector, 65 Remove the front cover (see Chapter 9).
38 First check the ABS main (10A) fuse (see
routing and securing it as noted on removal. 66 Refer to the procedure in Section 14 and
Chapter 10). If the main fuse has blown remove
Install the cable guide drain the brake fluid — siphon the fluid out of
the fuse and check for continuity to earth in
49 Check the air gap (See Step 23). Install the the front and rear reservoirs and pump any
the black/yellow wire from the fusebox. If
front cover (see Chapter 9). residual fluid out through the brake calipers,
there is continuity a short circuit has blown the
fuse — locate and repair the break in the wire but do not refill the system at this stage.
or the connector terminal. If not it is possible Front pulse ring 67 Pull the wiring connector lock up and
the fuse has blown for no reason other than it 50 Remove the front wheel (see Section 18). disconnect the connector.
had had enough. Replace the fuse with a new 51 Undo the bolts securing the ring and lift it 68 Cover the area around the modulator with
one off. clean rag to catch any brake fluid.
39 If the fuse is good remove the front fairing 52 Ensure there is no dirt or corrosion where 69 Unscrew the five brake pipe gland nuts.
panel (see Chapter 9). Disconnect the ABS the ring seats on the hub - if the ring does not 70 Unscrew the modulator mounting bolts.
unit wiring connector. Turn the ignition switch sit flat when it is installed the sensor air gap Remove the modulator, taking care not to
ON, and check for battery voltage between will be incorrect. Clean the threads of the bolts bend any of the pipes. Cover the ends of the
the black/yellow and green wire terminals in and apply a non-permanent thread locking pipes in plastic foodwrap to prevent fluid drips
the loom side of the connector. If there is no compound (or alternatively use new bolts from and contamination of the system.
voltage check the black/yellow wire between Honda which come pre-treated) and tighten 71 Installation is the reverse of removal,
the connector and the fusebox for continuity, them to the torque setting specified at the noting the following:
then check for continuity to earth in the green beginning of the Chapter. @ If the correct tools are available tighten the
wire. There should be continuity in each case 53 Install the front wheel (see Section 18). brake pipe gland nuts to the torque setting
— if not locate and repair the break in the wire Check the sensor air gap (see Step 23). specified at the beginning of the Chapter.
Ensure the wiring connector is secure.
or the connector terminal.
40 If there is voltage erase the fault code (see Follow the procedure in Section 14 to refill
Rear wheel speed sensor
Step 9). Start the engine and go for a short and bleed the brake system.
54 Unscrew the oxygen sensor cover bolts
ride so the ABS system performs its self-
and remove the cover.
diagnosis. If the ABS indicator light stays off,
55 Undo the wheel sensor cover plate bolts
the fault was temporary. If the fault code is 16 Wheel inspection and repair S
displayed again the ABS unit is faulty.
on the swingarm and remove the plate.
56 Trace the wheel sensor wiring to the xeN
Fault code 71 connector and disconnect it. Undo the bolts
securing the sensor wiring guides, and release
fi
41 First the air pressure in each tyre (see
Pre-ride checks). Next check that the the wiring from any other clips or ties, then 1 In order to carry out a proper inspection
correct size tyres are fitted, referring to the feed it down to the sensor, noting its routing of the wheels, it is necessary to support
Specifications at the beginning of the Chapter. 57 Unscrew the sensor bolts and remove it the scooter upright so that the wheel being
Finally check for damage and deformation to from the swingarm. inspected is raised off the ground. Clean the
the tyres and wheels. 58 Clean the sensor head and check it for wheels thoroughly to remove mud and dirt that
42 If all appears good erase the fault code damage. may interfere with the inspection procedure or
(see Step 9). Start the engine and go for a 59 Install the sensor and tighten the mounting mask defects. Make a general check of the
short ride so the ABS system performs its bolts. Feed the wiring up to the connector, wheels (see Chapter 1) and tyres (see Pre-ride
self-diagnosis. If the ABS indicator light stays routing and securing it as noted on removal. checks).
off, the fault was temporary. If the fault code is 60 Check the air gap (see Step 27). Install the 2 Attach a dial gauge to the fork or the
displayed again the ABS unit is faulty. covers. swingarm and position its tip against the side
8e24 Brakes, wheels and tyres

wheel will have to be renewed. Never attempt wheels still may be out of alignment vertically.
to repair a damaged cast alloy wheel. 10 Using a plumb bob or spirit level, check
the rear wheel to make sure it is vertical. To do
17 Wheel alignment check ow this, hold the string of the plumb bob against

x
SN
the tyre upper sidewall and allow the weight
to settle just off the floor. If the string touches
both the upper and lower tyre sidewalls and is
perfectly straight, the wheel is vertical. If it is
1 Misalignment of the wheels due to a bent not, adjust the stand until it is.
frame, engine hanger or forks can cause 11 Once the rear wheel is vertical, check the
strange and possibly serious handling front wheel in the same manner. If both wheels
problems. If the frame or forks are at fault, are not perfectly vertical, the frame and/or
repair by a specialist or renewal are the only major Suspension components are bent.
options.
2 To check wheel alignment you will need 18 Front wheel
an assistant, a length of string or a perfectly
straight piece of wood and a ruler. A plumb
bob or spirit level for checking that the wheels WUC
H32229 are vertical will also be required.
3 In order to make a proper check of the
16.2 Check the wheel for radial (out-of- Removal
wheels it is necessary to support the scooter
round) runout (A) and axial (side-to-side) in an upright position, using an auxiliary 1 Position the motorcycle on its centrestand.
runout (B) stand. First measure the width of both tyres Remove the belly pan (see Chapter 9).
at their widest points. Subtract the smaller 2 Displace the front brake caliper (see
of the wheel rim. Spin the wheel slowly and measurement from the larger measurement, Section 3). Support the caliper with a cable-tie
check the axial (side-to-side) runout of the rim then divide the difference by two. The result is or a bungee cord so that no strain is placed
(see illustration). the amount of offset that should exist between
3 In order to accurately check radial (out of the front and rear tyres on both sides of the
round) runout with the dial gauge, remove the machine.
wheel from the machine, and the tyre from the 4 lf a string is used, have your assistant hold
wheel. With the axle clamped in a vice and the one end of it about halfway between the floor
dial gauge positioned on the top of the rim, and the rear axle, with the string touching the Distance between
the wheel can be rotated to check the runout back edge of the rear tyre sidewall. gauge and tyre must
(see illustration 16.2). 5 Run the other end of the string forward and be equa! each side
and front and back
4 An easier, though slightly less accurate, pull it tight so that it is roughly parallel to the
method is to attach a stiff wire pointer to the floor (see illustration). Slowly bring the string
fork or the swingarm and position the end a into contact with the front edge of the rear tyre
fraction of an inch from the wheel rim where sidewall, then turn the front wheel until it is
the wheel and tyre join. If the wheel is true, parallel with the string. Measure the distance
the distance from the pointer to the rim will from the front tyre sidewall to the string.
be constant as the wheel is rotated. Note: /f 6 Repeat the procedure on the other side of
wheel runout is excessive, check the wheel the scooter. The distance from the front tyre
bearings very carefully before renewing the sidewall to the string should be equal on both Perfectly straight
wheel. sides. lengths of wood
5 The wheels should also be inspected for or metal bar
7 As previously mentioned, a perfectly
cracks, flat spots on the rim and other damage. straight length of wood or metal bar may be
Look very closely for dents in the area where substituted for the string (see illustration).
the tyre bead contacts the rim. Dents in this 8 If the distance between the string and tyre is
area may prevent complete sealing of the tyre greater on one side, or if the rear wheel appears
against the rim, which leads to deflation of the to be out of alignment, have your machine
tyre over a period of time. If damage is evident, checked by a Honda dealer or frame specialist.
or if runout in either direction is excessive, the 9 If the front-to-back alignment is correct, the

Rear tyre must be

parallel to gauge
Fix string here at front and back

~ String held taut

ewer mem:
»>)d9>9>99>d))
Hold string so that these Check for contact here
distances are equal

17.5 Wheel alignment check using string

17.7 Wheel alignment check using a
straight edge
 Brakes, wheels and tyres 8°25

18.3 Speedometer cable retaining screw 18.4 Axle nut (arrowed) 18.5 Withdraw the axle and remove the
(arrowed) wheel

on the hydraulic hose. There is no need to remove the spacer from each side of the wheel. the direction of normal rotation of the wheel.
disconnect the hose from the caliper. Note: Clean all old grease of the spacer(s), drive 9 On all except Pantheon and S-wing models
Do not operate the front brake lever with the housing (where fitted), axle and bearing seals. apply a smear of grease io the inside of the
caliper removed. Caution: Don’t lay the wheel down and wheel spacer and to the speedometer drive
3 On all except Pantheon and S-wing models allow it to rest on the disc - it could become housing, and also to the seal lips. Make
undo the screw securing the speedometer warped. Set the wheel on wood blocks so sure the gear and the washers behind it are
cable or speed sensor wiring (according to the disc doesn’t support the weight of the correctly located in the speedometer drive
model) in the drive housing and draw the wheel. housing (see illustration). Make sure the drive
cable or sensor out (see illustration). 7 Check the axle is straight by rolling it on plate is correctly located in the wheel hub. Fit
4 Where fitted remove the axle nut cap. a flat surface such as a piece of plate glass the spacer into the left-hand side of the wheel
Slacken the axle nut (see illustration). Place (first remove any corrosion using wire wool (see illustration 18.6b). Fit the drive housing
a support under the frame so the front wheel or a suitable alternative). If the equipment into the right-hand side, locating the raised
is off the ground. Make sure the scooter is is available, place the axle in V-blocks and tabs on the drive plate in the cut-outs in the
secure. Unscrew and remove the axle nut. measure the runout using a dial gauge. If the housing (see illustration 18.6a).
5 Take the weight of the wheel, then withdraw axle is bent or the runout exceeds the limit 10 On Pantheon and S-wing models apply a
the axle (see illustration). Carefully lower the specified, replace it with a new one. smear of grease to the inside of each wheel
wheel and draw it forwards. 8 Check the condition of the grease seals and spacer and to the seal lips. Fit the spacer into
6 On all except Pantheon and S-wing models wheel bearings (see Section 20). each side of the wheel.
remove the speedometer drive housing from 11 Manoeuvre the wheel into position
the right-hand side of the wheel, noting how it Installation between the forks, making sure the brake disc
fits, and the spacer from the left-hand side (see Note: /f a new tyre has been fitted, make sure is on the left-hand side. Apply a thin coat of
illustrations). On Pantheon and S-wing models the directional arrow on the tyre is pointing in grease to the axle.
Te 12 Lift the wheel into place, making sure the
spacer(s) and/or speedometer drive housing
(where fitted) remain in position, and that the
lug on the speedometer drive housing (where
fitted) locates against the correct side of the
stopper on the bottom of the right-hand fork,
i.e. so in the normal direction of rotation of
the wheel the lug is effectively forced against
the stopper (see illustration). Slide the axle
through (see illustration 18.5).
13 Fit the axle nut and tighten it to the torque
setting specified at the beginning of the
Chapter (see illustration). Counter-hold the
18.6a Remove the drive housing... axle head if necessary.

k \

18.12 Butt the lug (arrowed) against the 18.13 Fit the axle nut and tighten to the
18.9 Check and lubricate the drive housing
stopper as shown - cable drive type shown specified torque
8°26 Brakes, wheels and tyres

18.15a Make sure the O-ring (arrowed) is 18.15b ... then fit the cable or sensor 19.2 Draw the wheel off the axle
fitted...

14 Lower the front wheel to the ground, then or a seal hook, and the speedometer hub using a drawbolt arrangement or by
install the brake caliper (see Section 3). driveplate/seal from the left (see illustrations). using a bearing driver or suitable socket (see
15 On all except Pantheon and S-wing On Pantheon and S-wing models lever out the illustration). Ensure that the drawbolt washer
models, make sure the O-ring on the end of bearing seal from each side of the hub using or driver (as applicable) bears only on the
the speedometer cable or sensor is fitted and a flat-bladed screwdriver or a seal hook. Take outer race and does not contact the bearing
in good condition (replace it with a new one if care not to damage the hub. Discard the seals housing walls. If the bearings are open-sided
necessary), and smear it with grease. Fit the as new ones must be fitted on reassembly. pack them with bearing grease.
cable or sensor into the drive housing and 3 Inspect the bearings — check that the inner 7 Install the left-hand bearing first, with
secure it with the screw (see illustrations). race turns smoothly, quietly and freely and the marked or sealed side facing outwards.
16 Apply the front brake a few times to bring that the outer race is a tight fit in the hub. Ensure the bearing is fitted squarely and all
the pads back into contact with the disc. Note: Honda recommends that the bearings the way into its seat.
17 Check for correct operation of the front are not removed unless they are going to be 8 Turn the wheel over then install the bearing
brake before riding the motorcycle. replaced with new ones. spacer and the other new bearing.
4 lf the bearings are worn, remove them using 9 On all except Pantheon and S-wing models
19 Rear wheel an internal expanding puller with slide-hammer fit the new speedometer drive plate/seal into
attachment. Remove the spacer which fits the right-hand side, and a new seal into the
between the bearings. left-hand side (see illustration). On Pantheon
WE 5 Thoroughly clean the hub area of the wheel and S-wing models fit a new seal into each
with a suitable solvent and inspect the bearing side of the hub. Press the seals in using your
Removal seats for scoring and wear. If the seats are fingers or a suitable driver. Level the seals with
damaged, consult a Honda dealer before the rim of the hub with a small block of wood.
1 Remove the swingarm (see Chapter 7).
reassembling the wheel. Apply a smear of grease to the seal lips.
2 Draw the wheel off the axle (see illustration).
6 The new bearings can be installed in the 10 Clean the brake disc using acetone or
Installation
Note: /f a new tyre has been fitted, make sure
the directional arrow on the tyre is pointing in
the direction of normal rotation of the wheel.
3 Installation is the reverse of removal. Check
the condition of the splines on the axle and in
the wheel and smear them with grease.

20 Wheel bearings

Caution: Don’t lay the wheel down and

20.2b ... and the driveplate/seal
allow it to rest on the disc - it could become
warped. Set the wheel on wood blocks so
the wheel rim supports the weight of the
wheel, or keep the wheel upright. Don’t
operate the brake lever with the wheel
removed.
Note: Always renew the wheel bearings in
sets, never individually. Avoid using a high
pressure cleaner on the wheel bearing area.
Front wheel bearings
1 Remove the wheel (see Section 18).
2 On all except Pantheon and S-wing models
lever out the bearing seal from the left-hand
side of the hub using a flat-bladed screwdriver 20.6 Using a socket to drive the bearing in 20.9 Press or drive the seal into place
 Brakes, wheels and tyres 8e27

MANUFACTURES NAME
OR BRAND NAME

PATTERN CODE

LOAD AND PRESSURE

_ MARKING REQUIREMENT (NOT
“APPLICABLE IN UK) ADVANCED VARIABLE BELT
DENSITY
COUNTRY OF TYRE CONSTRUCTION DETAILS WHERE APPLICABLE
MANUFACTURE (NOT REQUIRED IN U.K)

NORTH AMERICAN
TYRE IDENTIFICATION TYRE SIZE DESIGNATION
NUMBER

NORTH AMERICAN
DEPARTMENT OF SPEED SYMBOL
TRANSPORTATION
COMPLIANCE SYMBOL

ARROW DENOTING
THE DIRECTION OF
WHEEL ROTATION

BIAS BELTED TYRE SIZE

MAK SPEED

THE WORD TUBELESS ECE TYPE APPROVAL MARK

WHERE APPLICABLE — AND NUMBER
EM soe
= eal ee

21.3 Common tyre sidewall markings

brake system cleaner, then install the wheel to take tubeless tyres only. Tyre sizes are given 4 It is recommended that tyres are fitted
(see Section 18). in the Specifications at the beginning of this by a scooter tyre specialist rather than
Chapter. attempted in the home workshop. This is
Rear wheel bearings 2 Refer to the Pre-ride checks listed particularly relevant in the case of tubeless
. 11 The bearings for the rear wheel axle are at the beginning of this manual for tyre tyres because the force required to break
fitted on the output shaft in the gearbox (see maintenance. the seal between the wheel rim and tyre
Chapter 3), and in the swingarm (see Chap-
ter 7). bead is substantial, and is usually beyond
Fitting new tyres the capabilities of an individual working with
21 Tyres 3 When selecting new tyres, refer to the
normal tyre levers. Additionally, the specialist
will be able to balance the wheels after tyre
* tyre information in the Owner’s Handbook.
Ensure that front and rear tyre types are fitting.
compatible, the correct size and correct 5 Note that punctured tubeless tyres can in
speed rating; if necessary seek advice from some cases be repaired — seek advice first.
General information a Honda dealer or tyre fitting specialist (see “Repairs must be carried out by a tyre fitting
1 The wheels fitted to all models are designed illustration). specialist.
8028 Notes
 Qe

Chapter 9
Bodywork
Contents Section number Section number
ICEMIOCLOIS mee eRe cars acne ce ee we.cyst ie clk ee Sie rete atone ete 6 General information
Bi ae atone coe he 2 Pantheon models.....
ane ee ee ae ae SPS iIMmoOdels
Fa ects vues
MS a erence 4 S-wing models.......
NO PRR REET ea tt 5

Degrees of difficulty
AN
Easy, suitable for Fairly easy, suitable SS Fairly difficult, BRS Difficult, suitable Very difficult,
novice with little x for beginner with S&S suitable for competent xSN
RN
for experienced DIY suitable for expert S
xX
experience some experience SN
wy DIY mechanic mechanic DIY or professional ~

when there is a little gap to squirt it in, and its correct place. Ensure all the fasteners are
1 General information with care a taped-up flat bladed screwdriver in good condition, including all trim clips and
can be used to apply some genile and grommets; any of these should be replaced
even leverage, but take care not to damage with new ones if faulty before the panel is
the paintwork. Special panel release tools reassembled. Check also that all mounting
Almost all the functional components of the made out of plastic are available from good brackets are straight and repair or replace
scooters covered by this manual are enclosed automotive suppliers, but these are generally them if necessary before attempting to install
by body panels, making removal of relevant geared towards car interior panels and so the panel. Where assistance was required to
panels a necessary part of most servicing and should be selected and used with care. remove a panel, make sure your assistant is
Once the evident fasteners have been on hand to install it.
maintenance procedures.
removed, try to remove the panel as described Tighten the fasteners securely, but be
Before attempting to remove any body
but DO NOT FORCE IT - if it will not release, careful not to overtighten any of them or the
panel, study it closely, noting any fasteners
check that all fasteners have been removed panel may break (not always immediately) due
and associated fittings. Most panels are
and try again. Where a panel engages another to the uneven stress. Where quick-release
retained by screws and inter-locking tabs, and
by means of tabs, be careful not to break the fasteners are fitted, turn them 90° anti-
in some places trim clips are used, while on
tab or its mating slot. Remember that a few clockwise to release them, and 90° clockwise
later models snap-fit clips are used.
moments of patience at this stage will save to secure them.
To release trim clips, push the centre of the
you a lot of money in replacing broken body
clip into the body, then draw the body out of
the panel. Reset the clip by pulling the centre panels! Note that a small amount of
AN
AN ==)
When installing a body panel, check the

HINT
out of the body. To install the clip, push the lubricant or grease applied to
fasteners and associated fittings removed rubber mounting grommets
body into the hole in the panel, then push the
with it, to be sure of returning everything to and over the metal clip part
centre into the body.
The snap-fit clips can be quite hard to of the snap-fit clips will ease installation
release, and must be done so by pulling the and make removal the next time that
panel straight back from its position, not tilting much easier.
or angling it, so as not to damage the clip or
panel. The panel will probably come out a
In the case of damage to the body parts,
little bit then feel tight as the clip compresses
it is usually necessary to remove the broken
fully — at this point you will probably start to
component and replace it with a new (or used)
worry about the amount of force that may be
one. There are however some shops that
needed, especially if there is any corrosion on
specialise in ‘plastic welding’, so it may be
the metal clip part, but there is no alternative.
worthwhile seeking the advice of one of these
Be especially careful where there is more than specialists before consigning an expensive
one clip to be released - if one clip releases
component to the bin. Additionally, proprietary
before the other the panel will tilt. Try to release
repair kits can be obtained for repair of small
them evenly. You can use a spray lubricant 1.1 A typical repair kit components (see illustration).
9e2 Bodywork

2.32 Upper front panel removal 2.37 Lower front panel removal
7 Inner panel screw - 4 off 2 Front panel bolt — 2 off 1 Lower panel 2 Panel screws — 4 off

17 Remove the luggage rack. 34 Release the front panel from the inner
2 2001 to 2004 SH models Be 18 Undo the screw on each side (see panel, then disconnect the turn signal wiring
&& illustration 3.19a). connectors and remove the panel.
~’
RR 19 Release the body cover sections from the 35 Installation is the reverse of removal.
floor panel on each side and from each other
at the front and draw the assembly back a Lower front panel
Seat little (see illustration 3.20a). Disconnect the 36 Remove the upper front panel.
1 Unlock the seat and swing it up (see tail light assembly wiring connector, release 37 Undo the screws on the inner panel and
illustration 3.1). the seat lock cable, and remove the body floor cover (see illustration).
2 Undo the nuts securing the seat to the hinge cover (see illustration 3.20d). 38 Release the panel and slide it down.
and remove the seat (see illustration 3.2). 20 Installation is the reverse of removal. 39 Installation is the reverse of removal.
3 Installation is the reverse of removal. Make sure the wiring connector is securely
connected, and check the operation of the
Inner front panel
Storage compartment turn signals, brake light and tail light before 40 Remove the upper and lower front panels.
4 Remove the seat. riding the scooter. 41 Remove the handlebar covers — although
5 Undo the screw at the front (see illus-
not strictly necessary it makes removing the
Belly panel panel a lot easier.
tration 3.5).
21 Undo the two screws on each side (see 42 Disconnect the white 3-pin and black
6 Unscrew the four bolts inside the
illustration 3.22). 6-pin wiring connectors on the right-hand
compartment, noting which fits where (see
22 Release the tabs from the floor panel and side.
illustration 3.6).
remove the belly panel out from under the 43 Release the ignition switch cover by
7 Lift the storage compartment out, noting
scooter. turning it anti-clockwise and draw it off the
how it locates (see illustration 3.7b).
23 Installation is the reverse of removal. switch, noting how it locates — it may need to
8 Installation is the reverse of removal.
be eased off the tabs on the switch using a
Floor panel
Maintenance panel screwdriver (see illustration).
24 Remove the maintenance panel. 44 Undo the shopping bag hook screws and
9 Undo the screw at the front and the screw 25 Remove the belly panel. remove the hook.
on each side (see illustration 3.9). 26 Remove the body cover. 45 Open the glove compartment and unscrew
10 Release the tabs from the body cover 27 Remove the inner front panel. the bolt.
on each side then the floor panel at the 28 Remove the battery (see Chapter 10). 46 Release the panel from the floor panel,
front, and remove the panel (see illus- Release the battery leads and starter relay and if not removed draw it out from under the
tration 3.10). from the floor panel, noting their routing (see handlebar covers - if difficulty is encountered
11 Installation is the reverse of removal. illustration 3.29). removing the panel from under the handlebar
29 Lower the passenger footrests and undo covers, remove them.
Luggage rack
the screws behind them. 47 Installation is the reverse of removal.
12 Unlock the seat and swing it up. 30 Unscrew the floor panel bolts and remove
13 Unscrew the bolts and remove the rack the panel (see illustration 3.31a and b). Mirrors
(see illustration 3.13a and b). 31 Installation is the reverse of removal. 48 Lift the rubber boot (see illustration 3.51).
14 Installation is the reverse of removal. Hold the mirror stem and slacken the locknut,
Upper front panel
Body cover then unscrew the mirror.
32 Undo the four screws on the inner panel 49 Installation is the reverse of removal —
15 Remove the storage compartment. (see illustration). position the mirror as required, then hold it in
16 Remove the maintenance panel. 33 Unscrew the bolt on each side. place and tighten the locknut.
| Bodywork 9e3

Front handlebar cover

50 Remove the upper front panel.
51 Undo the screws in the bottom of the
front cover and the two in the rear cover, then
release the front cover from the rear cover
at each end, draw the cover forwards and
disconnect the headlight wiring connector
(see illustration).
52 Installation is the reverse of removal.
Make sure the wiring connector is securely
connected, and check the operation of the
aS headlight before riding the scooter.
Ignition switch cover eee ei Rear handlebar cover
Bag hook Pee, |
Glove box cover 53 Remove the front handlebar cover.
Bolt inside glove box 54 Remove the mirrors.
Floor panel 55 Disconnect the speedometer cable.
Inner front panel 56 Disconnect the instrument cluster/
Panel screws handlebar switch loom wiring connectors.
57 Disconnect the brake light switch wiring
connectors (see illustration).
58 Undo the screws and remove the
2.43 Inner front panel removal cover along with the instrument cluster and
sub-loom, noting its routing as you draw it out
(see illustration).
59 Installation is the reverse of removal. Make
sure the wiring connectors are correctly and
securely connected, and check the operation
of all instruments, warning lights and.switches
before riding the scooter.

Front mudguard
60 Remove the front wheel (see Chapter 8).
61 Unscrew the bolts securing the mudguard,
then draw it down, freeing the cable from the
guide (see illustrations 3.63a and b).
62 Installation is the reverse of removal.

Rear hugger
63 Undo the screw securing the left-hand
side of the hugger to the air filter housing (see
illustration 3.65).
64 Unscrew the bolts securing the right-hand
side of the hugger to the swingarm and
manoeuvre the hugger out.
65 Installation is the reverse of removal.

2.57 Disdonnaot the brake light switch 2.58 Rear handlebar cover screws (arrowed8
connectors (arrowed)
9e4 Bodywork

3.5 Undo the screw (arrowed)... 3.6 ...and the four bolts (arrowed)...

3 2005t0 2008 SH models tration,

hinge and remove the seat (see iilus- compartment,
illustration).
noting which fits where (see

eS 3 Installation is the reverse of removal. 7 Lift the front of the storage compartment
wy and release the two tabs at the back from the
Storage compartment frame cross-piece, then lift the compartment
Seat 4 Remove the seat. out (see illustrations). Note the washer on
1 Unlock the seat and swing it up (see 5 Undo the screw at the front (see the support lug and remove it for safekeeping
illustration). illustration). (see illustration).
2 Undo the nuts securing the seat to the 6 Unscrew the four bolts inside the 8 Installation is the reverse of removal.

3.7a Release the tabs... 3.7b ...and remove the storage 3.7¢ Note the washer (arrowed)
compartment
 Bodywork 9e5

3.9 Undo the screw (A) at the front and the screw (B) on each side

Maintenance panel Body cover

9 Undo the screw at the front and the screw 15 Remove the storage compartment.
on each side (see illustration). 16 Remove the maintenance panel.
10 Release the tabs from the body cover on 17 Remove the luggage rack.
each side then the floor panel at the front, and 18 Undo the two screws on the fuel tank
remove the panel (seeillustration). cover (see illustration). Undo the fuel filler
11 Installation is the reverse of removal.
cap, then lift the tank cover, noting how the
Luggage rack tabs along the front locate, and detach the
12 Unlock the seat and swing it up (see fuel drain hose (see illustrations). Refit the
illustration 3.1). filler cap.
13 Unscrew the bolts and remove the rack 19 Undo the screw and release the trim clip
(see illustrations). on each side (see illustrations).
14 Installation is the reverse of removal. 20 Release the body cover sections from the

3.18c ...then lift the cover and detach the 3.19a Undo the screw (arrowed) on each 3.19b ... and release the trim clip
drain hose side... (arrowed) on each side
9°6 Bodywork

3.20a Release the tabs from the floor 3.20b ...and separate the sections at the 3.20c ... then draw the cover back,
panel on each side... front... disconnect the wiring connector...

Hut

3.22 Undo the screws (arrowed) on each 3.23 Detach the drain hose (arrowed) as
side you remove the panel

\
3.29 Free the leads and displace the relay 3.30a Undo the screw (arrowed) behind 3.30b ...and the two at the front on each
each footrest... side
floor panel on each side and from each other connected, and check the operation of the 23 Release the tabs from the floor panel, then
at the front and draw the assembly back a turn signals, brake light and tail light before detach the fuel drain hose and remove the
little (see illustrations). Disconnect the tail riding the scooter. belly panel out from under the scooter (see
light assembly wiring connector and remove illustration).
the body cover (see illustrations). Belly panel
24 Installation is the reverse of removal.
21 Installation is the reverse of removal. 22 Undo the two screws on each side (see
Make sure the wiring connector is securely illustration). Floor panel
25 Remove the maintenance panel.
26 Remove the belly panel.
27 Remove the body cover.
28 Remove the inner front panel.
29 Remove the battery (see Chapter 10). Release
the battery leads and starter relay from the floor
panel, noting their routing (see illustration).
30 Lower the passenger footrests and undo
the screw behind each one (see illustration).
Undo the four screws along the front of the
panel (see illustration).
31 Unscrew the floor panel bolts and remove
Si “e
3.31a Unscrew the bolts (arrowed) .. . the panel (see illustrations).
3.31b ...and remove the floor panel 32 Installation is the reverse of removal.
 Bodywork 9e7

3.33a Undo the upper screws 3.33b ... and the lower screws
(arrowed)... (arrowed)...

Upper front panel

33 Undo the two screws at the top and the
two on the underside (see illustrations).
34 Release and remove the panel (see
illustration).
35 Installation is the reverse of removal.

Lower front panel

36 Remove the upper front panel.
37 Remove the inner front panel.
38 Remove the front wheel (see Chapter 8).
Remove the front mudguard. 3.41a Unscrew the bolt 3.41b Release the pegs and the hook...
39 Undo the front screw on each side of the
belly panel and the four screws along the front
of the floor panel (see illustrations 3.22 and
3.30b).
40 Disconnect the turn signal wiring
connectors and free the wiring and the fan
wiring from the guides.
41 Unscrew the bolt in the front (see
illustration). Carefully pull the panel forwards
to release the pegs from the grommets at
each end of the coolant reservoir, then lift the
panel to release the hook, then slide it down
under the forks (see illustrations).
42 Installation is the reverse of removal.
3.41c ...and remove the panel 3.44 Undo the screws (arrowed) on each
Inner front panel side
43 Remove the handlebar covers.
44 Remove the four screws on each side of 46 Release the ignition switch cover the switch using a screwdriver (see illus-
the panel (see illustration). by turning it anti-clockwise and draw it _ tration).
45 Remove the in-fill panel at the front by off the switch, noting how it locates - it 47 Undo the shopping bag hook screws and
sliding it forwards (see illustration). may need to be eased off the tabs on remove the hook (see illustration).

3.45 Release and remove the in-fill panel 3.46 Twist the cover anticlockwise over 3.47 Undo the screws (arrowed) and
the tabs and draw it off the switch remove the hook
9°8 Bodywork

3.49b ... free the wiring from the hook

(arrowed) on each side...

3.49c ... disconnect the wiring 3.51 Lift the boot, slacken the locknut and
connectors... unscrew the mirror

48 Open the glove compartment and unscrew

the bolt (see illustration).
49 Release the panel from the floor panel,
then draw it out from under the handlebars,
free the wiring from the hook on each side,
disconnect the white 4-pin and black 6-pin
wiring connectors, and remove the panel (see
illustrations).
50 Installation is the reverse of removal.

Mirrors
51 Lift the rubber boot (see illustration).
Hold the mirror stem and slacken the locknut, 2. = 3 sae f

then unscrew the mirror. 3.54a Undo the screws (arrowed)... 3.54b ... then release the hooks
52 Installation is the reverse of removal —
position the mirror as required, then hold it in 54 Undo the screws securing the top section, the rear cover at each end, draw the cover
place and tighten the locknut. then lift the top of it and draw it forwards to forwards to free the pegs from the grommets,
release the hooks (see illustrations). and disconnect the headlight wiring connector
Front handlebar cover
55 Undo the screws in the bottom of the (see illustrations).
53 Remove the upper front panel. front cover, then release the front cover from 56 Installation is the reverse of removal.

3.55b Release the pegs from the holes at 3.55c¢ ... free the pegs from the
each end... grommets...
 Bodywork 9e9

3.55d .

3.59b ...and the screw (arrowed) at the 3.59c ... then displace the cover... 3.60 ...and disconnect the switch wiring
back... connectors

Make sure the wiring connector is securely the wiring, it is advisable to mark or tag the 63 Unscrew the bolts securing the mudguard,
connected, and check the operation of the connectors as a reminder of where they then draw it down, freeing the cable from the
headlight before riding the scooter. connect. Ensure all the wiring has been guide (see illustrations).
disconnected and remove the cover. 64 Installation is the reverse of removal.
Rear handlebar cover 61 Installation is the reverse of removal. Make
57 Remove the front handlebar cover. sure the wiring connectors are correctly and
Rear hugger
58 Remove the mirrors. securely connected, and check the operation 65 Undo the screw securing the left-hand
59 Undo the five screws from the front and of all instruments, warning lights and switches side of the hugger to the air filter housing (see
the single screw from the back and displace before riding the scooter. illustration).
the cover (see illustrations). 66 Unscrew the bolts securing the right-hand
60 Disconnect the wiring connectors for the side of the hugger to the swingarm and
handlebar switches, noting where they fit Front mudguard manoeuvre the hugger out.
(see illustration). Note: When disconnecting 62 Remove the front wheel (see Chapter 8). 67 Installation is the reverse of removal.

3
a Ss diet
3.63a Unscrew the bolts (arrowed) ... 3.63b ... and remove the mudguard 3.65 Undo the screw (arrowed)
9°10 Bodywork

4.9 Undo the two screws under the seat

(arrowed)

4 2009-on SH models

Seat
1 Unlock the seat and swing it up (see
illustration 3.1).
2 Undo the nuts securing the seat to the hinge 4.18 Body cover screws (1), tail light connect (2) and mounting stud (8)
and remove the seat (see illustration 3.2).
3 Installation is the reverse of removal. Maintenance panel 13 Unscrew the bolts and remove the rack
(see illustrations 3.13a and b).
Storage compartment 9 Unlock the seat and swing it up (see
14 Installation is the reverse of removal.
illustration 3.1). Undo the screws on the top
4 Remove the seat.
of the panel (see illustration). Close the seat. Body cover
5 Undo the two screws at the front (see
10 Release the tabs from the body cover
illustration 3.9) and the two to the rear of the 15 Remove the maintenance panel.
on each side then the floor panel at the front
fuel filler cap (see illustration 7.6b). 16 Remove the storage compartment.
and sides, and remove the panel (see illus-
6 Unscrew the four bolts inside the 17 Remove the luggage rack.
tration 3.10).
compartment, noting which fits where (see 18 Undo the three screws on each side (see
11 Installation is the reverse of removal.
illustration 3.6). illustration).
7 Lift the storage compartment and remove it. 19 Release the body cover sections from
Note the washer on the support lug and remove Luggage rack the floor panel on each side and from the lug
it for safekeeping (see illustration 3.7c). at the back and draw the assembly back a
12 Unlock the seat and swing it up (see
8 Installation is the reverse of removal. little. Disconnect the tail light assembly wiring
illustration 3.1).
connector and remove the body cover.
20 Installation is the reverse of removal.
Make sure the wiring connector is securely
connected, and check the operation of the
turn signals, brake light and tail light before
riding the scooter.

Belly panel
21 Undo the three screws on each side,
noting which fits where (see illustration).
22 Release the tabs from the floor panel
by sliding the panel forwards, then detach
the fuel drain hose and remove the belly
panel out from under the scooter (see illus-
ration 3.23).
23 Installation is the reverse of removal.
Floor panel
24 Remove the maintenance panel.
25 Remove the belly panel.
26 Remove the body cover.
27 Remove the inner front panel.
28 Remove the battery (see Chapter 10).
Release the battery leads and starter relay
4.21 Belly panel screws (1), tab (2) and tab slot (3) from the floor panel, noting their routing (see
illustration 3.29).
29 Lower the passenger footrests and
 Bodywork 9e11

Coe HU,
AS
Rw YO
1 Lower front panel
)wr,
2 Inner front panel @) y x .

3 Wire connectors
4 Wiring clamp
5 Screws - 10-off
6 Bolt
4.32 Upper front panel screws (1) and 7 Peg - 2-off
snap-fit clip locations (2) 8 Grommet - 2-off
9 Snap-fit clips
undo the screw behind each one (see illus-
10 Hook GE a
tration 3.30a).
30 Unscrew the floor panel bolts, then lift the
panel at the front and manoeuvre it up over
the footrests (see illustration 3.31a).
31 Installation is the reverse of removal.
H46892
Upper front panel
32 Undo the two screws at the top (see
illustration).
4.39 Lower front panel
33 Release the three snap-fit clips, one on
each side and one at the bottom, and remove 38 Disconnect the turn signal/sidelight wiring Inner front panel
the panel. connectors and free the wiring from the
42 Remove the trim panels from the inner
34 Installation is the reverse of removal. guides.
front panel by undoing the screw and releasing
39 Undo the five screws up each side of the the tabs securing each one.
Lower front panel inner front panel (see illustration).
43 Remove the handlebar covers.
35 Remove the upper front panel. 40 Unscrew the bolt in the front. Carefully 44 Remove the four screws on each side of
36 Remove the trim panels from the inner pull the panel forwards to release the two
the panel (see illustration).
front panel by undoing the screw and releasing pegs from the grommets and the two snap-fit 45 Remove the in-fill panel at the front by
the tabs securing each one. clips, then lift the panel to release the hook,
sliding it rearwards.
37 Remove the front wheel (See Chapter 8). then slide it down under the forks. 46 Release the ignition switch cover by
Remove the front mudguard. 41 Installation is the reverse of removal. turning it anti-clockwise and draw it off the
switch, noting how it locates — it may need to
be eased off the tabs on the switch using a
screwdriver (see illustration).
47 Undo the shopping bag hook screws and
SY) (2) remove the hook.
gv
KEE a 48 Undo the centre screw.
49 Release the panel from the floor panel,
then draw it back to release the two snap-fit
yy
clips, and out from under the handlebars, and
remove the panel.
50 Installation is the reverse of removal.

Inner front panel

Screws — 4 each side
In-fill panel
Ignition switch cover
Bag hook
Centre screw
Snap-fit clips 4.46 Ignition switch cover (1) locks into
Locating tabs
ANOaAAWNH place over tabs (2) on switch body. Rotate
the cover anti-clockwise to release its
4.44 Inner front panel slots (3) from the tabs
9e12 Bodywork

Rear cover screws

Tab (on each side)
Tab slot (on
each side)
Pegs
Grommets
Handle cover

H46895
rN

4.56 Front handlebar cover trim panel screws (1), snap-fit clips (2) 4.57 Front handlebar cover mountings
and tab (8)

Mirrors 56 Remove the trim panels from the cover to the handlebar cover. Also remove the
51 Lift the rubber boot. by undoing the screw and releasing the tab single screw from the back of the cover, then
52 To remove the mirror from the adapters, and the snap-fit clip securing each one (see withdraw the cover (see illustration).
hold the adaptor and unscrew the mirror, turning illustration). 62 Disconnect the wiring connectors for the
the right-hand one anti-clockwise and the 57 Undo the four self-tapping screws in the handlebar switches, noting where they fit.
left-hand clockwise. Now if required unscrew rear handlebar cover (see illustration). Note: When disconnecting the wiring, it is
the adapters, turning the right-hand one 58 Release the front cover tabs from the rear advisable to mark or tag the connectors as a
clockwise and the left-hand anti-clockwise. cover, draw the cover forwards to free the reminder of where they connect. Ensure all
53 To remove the mirror and adapters pegs from the grommets, remove the handle the wiring has been disconnected and remove
together, unscrew the adapter, turning the cover caps, and disconnect the headlight the cover.
right-hand one clockwise and the left-hand wiring connector. 63 Installation is the reverse of removal. Make
anti-clockwise. 59 Installation is the reverse of removal. sure the wiring connectors are correctly and
54 Installation is the reverse of removal — if the Make sure the wiring connector is securely securely connected, and check the operation
mirrors and adapters were separated, thread connected, and check the operation of the of all instruments, warning lights and switches
the adapter in tight, then thread the mirror in headlight before riding the scooter. before riding the scooter.
and position it as required on the adapter, then
hold it in place and tighten the locknut. Rear handlebar cover
60 Remove the front handlebar cover. Front mudguard
Front handlebar cover 61 Undo the five screws from the front which 64 Remove the front wheel (see Chapter 8).
55 Remove the mirrors. retain the handlebar and instrument cluster 65 Unscrew the bolts securing the mudguard,

H46897

4.61 Rear handlebar cover

1 Front screws 2 Rear screw 3 Wiring connectors
 Bodywork 9e13

then draw it down, freeing the cable from the

guide (see illustrations 3.63a and b).
66 Installation is the reverse of removal.

Rear hugger
67 Undo the screw securing the left-hand
side of the hugger to the air filter housing (see
illustration 3.65).
68 Unscrew the bolts securing the right-hand
side of the hugger to the swingarm, on
models with a rear disc brake noting how they
secure the brake hose guide, and manoeuvre
+ eamamaeiammee
the hugger out, noting how the slit locates
over the tab on the air filter housing. 5.1 Unlock and raise the seat
69 Installation is the reverse of removal.

5 Dylan models

Mil
Seat
1 Unlock the seat and swing it up (see
illustration).
2 Undo the nuts securing the seat to the
hinge and remove the seat (see illustration).
3 Installation is the reverse of removal.

Storage compartment 5.5 Undo the screw (arrowed) 5.6a Unscrew the bolts (arrowed) . .

4 Remove the seat.

5 Undo the screw at the front (see Maintenance panels storage compartment. Undo the screw at the
illustration). 9 To remove the small access panel to the front and release the trim clip on each side
6 Unscrew the two bolts and the four nuts, spark plug undo the screw, then release (see illustration). Release the tabs from the
removing their washers (see illustrations). the tabs and remove the panel (see illus- body cover on each side then the floor panel
7 Lift the storage compartment and remove it trations). at the front and sides, and remove the panel
(see illustration). 10 To remove the large access panel to the (see illustration).
8 Installation is the reverse of removal. battery/fusebox/starter relay, first remove the 11 Installation is the reverse of removal.

5.6b ... and the nuts (arrowed)... 5.9a Undo the screw (arrowed) . . .

5.9b ... and remove the panel 5.10a Undo the screw (A) and release the 5.10b ... and remove the panel
trim clip (B) on each side...
 9e14 Bodywork

a | wth
5.13a Unscrew the bolts (arrowed) 5.13b Remove the rack and the spacer 5.18a Undo the screw (arrowed) on each
side...

Luggage rack assembly wiring connector and remove the

12 Unlock the seat and swing it up (see body cover (see illustrations).
illustration 5.1). 20 Installation is the reverse of removal.
13 Unscrew the bolts, noting the spacer Make sure the wiring connector is securely
under the rear one, and remove the rack (see connected, and check the operation of the
illustrations). turn signals, brake light and tail light before
14 Installation is the reverse of removal. riding the scooter.

Body cover Lower covers

15 Remove the storage compartment. 21 Unscrew the bolt and release the trim clip
16 Remove the large maintenance panel. at the front, then undo the screw and the bolt
17 Remove the luggage rack. at the back (see illustrations).
18 Undo the screw and release the trim clip 22 Release the tabs from the floor panel
5.18b ... and release the trim clip on each side (see illustrations). by sliding the cover back — when removing
(arrowed) on each side 19 Release the body cover sections from the the left-hand cover on models fitted with a
floor panel on each side and from the lug at sidestand, move the stand as required as you
the back and draw the assembly back a little remove the cover (see illustration).
(see illustration). Disconnect the tail light 23 Installation is the reverse of removal.

~ a cc
5.19a Release the tabs from the floor
5.19c ...and remove the cover
panel

Ue os
5.21a Unscrew the bolt (A) and release the 5.21b Undo the screw (A) and the bolt (B)
tien ANE8

5.22 Release and remove the cover

trim clip (B)
 Bodywork 9¢15

5.25a Unscrew the bolts (arrowed) on each side...

Belly panel 30 Undo the three screws and two floor panel
24 Remove the lower covers. bolts on each side (see illustration).
25 Unscrew the two bolts on each side and 31 Pull the bottom of the inner front panel
remove the belly panel out from under the Way and release the floor panel from it, then
scooter (see illustrations). remove the floor panel (see illustrations).
26 Installation is the-reverse of removal. 32 Installation is the reverse of removal.

Floor panel Upper front panel

27 Remove the body cover. 33 Undo the two screws on the inner front
28 Remove the lower covers. panel (see illustration).
29 Unscrew the passenger footrest bracket 34 Draw the panel down and remove it (see
bolts and remove each footrest assembly (see _ illustration).
illustrations). 35 Installation is the reverse of removal.

5.29b ... and remove the footrest

assembly bolts (B)... panel...

t pe

5.31b ...and remove it 5.33 Undo the screws (arrowed) . . 5.34 ...and remove the panel
9°16 Bodywork

5.38c ... release the tabs (arrowed) on

each side...

39 Disconnect the headlight and turn signal

wiring connectors (see illustration).
40 Undo the. two screws on the underside
of the nose and the two bolts at the top
(see illustration). Draw the panel forwards
to release the pegs from the grommets (see
illustrations).
41 Installation is the reverse of removal.
Inner front panel
42 Remove the upper front panel.
43 Remove the handlebar covers.
44 Release the ignition switch cover by
5.38d ...and draw the centre 5.39 Disconnect the headlight wiring turning it anti-clockwise and draw it off the
section out connector and the turn signal connector switch, noting how it locates (see illustration)
on each side — it may need to be eased off the tabs on the
Lower front panel switch using a screwdriver.
underside of the centre section, then undo 45 Undo the shopping bag hook screws and
36 Remove the upper front panel. the three screws on each side, release remove the hook (see illustration).
37 Remove the inner front panel. its tabs and draw it out to one side (see 46 Release the wiring from the ties (see
38 Release the two trim clips on the illustrations). illustration).

J cei

5.40b ... then free the pegs from the

grommets...

5.44 Twist the cover anticlockwise over 5.45 Undo the screws (arrowed) and
the tabs and draw it off the switch 5.46 Release the wiring from the ties
remove the hook
(arrowed)
 Bodywork 9e17

5.47 Undo the screws (arrowed) on each 5.48a Release the panel and displace the 5.48b ...and remove the panel
side relays (arrowed)...

47 Undo the three screws on each side of the

panel (see illustration).
48 Release the panel from the lower front
panel and floor panel and displace the turn
signal and starter relays from their bracket,
then remove the panel (see illustrations).
49 Installation is the reverse of removal.

Mirrors
50 Lift the rubber boot (see illustration).
Hold the mirror stem and slacken the locknut,
then unscrew the mirror.
51 Installation is the reverse of removal — al eal

position the mirror as required, then hold it in 5.50 Lift the boot, slacken the locknut and 5.53a Undo the rear screws (arrowed)...
place and tighten the locknut. unscrew the mirror
54 Release the tabs from the rear cover and 57 Remove the mirrors.
Front handlebar cover 58 Disconnect the instrument cluster wiring
draw the cover forwards (see illustrations).
52 Remove the upper front panel. 55 Installation is the reverse of removal. connector (see illustration).
53 Undo the two screws in the rear handlebar 59 Undo the two screws from the front and
cover and the two on the underside of the Rear handlebar cover the single screw from the back and displace
front (see illustrations). 56 Remove the front handlebar cover. the cover (see illustrations).

5.53b ...and the front screws (arrowed) 5.54a Release the pegs from the holes at 5.54b ...and remove the cover
eachend...

. . oe ee

| 5.58 Disconnect the wiring connector 5.59a Undo the front screws (arrowed)... 5.59b .. . and rear screw (arrowed) . .
9°18 Bodywork

Ye | Ca

5.60 ... then displace the cover and 5.62 Undo the screws (arrowed) on each 5.64 Undo the screw (A) and the bolts (B)
disconnect the switch connectors side

60 Disconnect the wiring connectors for the Rear hugger Storage compartment
handlebar switches, noting where they fit 64 Undo the screw securing the left-hand 4 Remove the seat.
(see illustration). Note: When disconnecting side of the hugger to the air filter housing and
the wiring, it is advisable to mark or tag the
5 Undo the screw at the front (see
the bolts securing the right-hand side to the illustration).
connectors as a reminder of where they swingarm and manoeuvre the hugger out (see 6 Unscrew the two bolts and the four nuts,
connect. Ensure all the wiring has been illustration). removing their washers (see illustration).
disconnected and remove the cover. Remove 65 Installation is the reverse of removal. 7 Lift the storage compartment out (see
the instrument cluster from it if required.
illustration).
61 Installation is the reverse of removal. Make 6 @models 8 Installation is the reverse of removal.
sure the wiring connectors are correctly and

IE:
securely connected, and check the operation Maintenance panels
of all instruments, warning lights and switches 9 To remove the small access panel to the
before riding the scooter. spark plug undo the screw, then release the
Seat tabs and remove the panel (see illustrations
Front mudguard
1 Unlock the seat and swing it up (see 5.9a and b).
62 Undo the two screws on each side illustration). 10 To remove the large access panel to the
and draw the mudguard forwards (see 2 Undo the nuts securing the seat to the battery/fusebox/starter relay, first remove the
illustration). hinge and remove the seat (see illustration). storage compartment. Release the trim clip on
63 Installation is the reverse of removal. 3 Installation is the reverse of removal. each side (see illustration). Release the tabs

sa:
6.6 Unscrew the bolts (A) and the 6.7 ...and lift the compartment out 6.10a Release the trim clip (arrowed) on
nuts (B)...
each side...
 Bodywork 9e19

= ¥ — 5

6.10b ...and remove the panel 6.13 Unscrew the bolts (arrowed) and 6.16a Undo the screw (arrowed) at the
remove the rack front...

from the body cover on each side then the

floor panel at the front and sides, and remove
the panel (see illustration).
11 Installation is the reverse of removal.

Luggage rack 125

FEE IEN,

12 Unlock the seat and swing it up (see

illustration 6.1).
13 Unscrew the bolts and remove the rack
(see illustration). Remove the spacers, noting
which fits where.
14 Installation is the reverse of removal.
6.16b ... the screw (A) and the bolts (B) on 6.16c .. . and remove the cover
the side...
Side covers
21 Release the seat lock cable from the
15 Remove the large maintenance panel. Body cover
locking mechanism (see illustration).
16 Undo the screw at the front and the screw 18 Remove the side covers. 22 Lift the rear of the cover to release the
and two bolts on the side and release the 19 Remove the luggage rack. pegs from the grommets on the tail light, and
cover from the floor panel (see illustrations). 20 Undo the screw on each side (see remove the cover (see illustration).
17 Installation is the reverse of removal. illustration). 23 Installation is the reverse of removal.

Lower covers
24 Undo the screw at the back and the bolts
on the side (see illustrations).
25 Release the tabs from the floor panel —
when removing the left-hand cover, move the
stand as required as you remove the cover.
26 Installation is the reverse of removal.

Belly panel
27 Remove the lower covers.
28 Unscrew the two bolts on each side and
remove the belly panel out from under the
6.20 Undo the screw (arrowed) on each scooter (see illustration 5.25a and b).
side 29 Installation is the reverse of removal.

6.22 Release and remove the cover 6.24a Undo the screw (arrowed) ... 6.24b ... and the bolts (arrowed)
9e20 Bodywork
Me
Bo
o

6.36 Undo the screws (arrowed) on each 6.37a Release the tabs...
side

6.37b ... then disconnect the wiring 6.43 Undo the screw (A) and the bolt (B) 6.44 Undo the nuts (arrowed) and remove
connector and remove the panel on each side the panel
Fioor panel on each side, then disconnect the turn signal the washers, then draw the panel down
30 Remove the side covers. wiring connectors and remove the panel (see from around the forks and remove it (see
31 Remove the lower covers. illustrations). illustration).
32 Unscrew the passenger footrest bracket 38 Installation is the reverse of removal. 45 Installation is the reverse of removal.
bolts and remove each footrest assembly (see
Lower front panel Inner front panel
illustrations 5.29a and b).
33 Undo the two screws and the two floor 39 Remove the upper front panel. 46 Remove the upper front panel.
panel bolts on each side (see illustration). 40 Remove the inner front panel. 47 Either remove the handlebar covers or the
34 Release the floor panel from bottom of the 41 Remove the front wheel (see Chapter 8). floor panel — the handlebar covers require less
inner front panel and remove the floor panel. Remove the front mudguard. work, but if you are removing the floor panel
35 Installation is the reverse of removal. 42 Remove the deflector from the underside anyway and not the handlebar covers, do it
of the bottom yoke. that way.
Upper front panel 43 Undo the screw in the floor panel and 48 Undo the shopping bag hook screws and
36 Undo the two upper screws on each side the bolt in the lower cover on each side (see remove the hook (see illustration).
of the inner front panel (see illustration). illustration). 49 Undo the two screws on each side of the
37 Release the tabs from the lower front panel 44 Unscrew the two nuts and remove panel (see illustration).

6.48 Undo the screws (arrowed) and remove the hook

6.49 Undo the screws (arrowed) on each side
 Bodywork 9e21

6.50b ... displace the relays (arrowed)... 6.50c ... and release the wiring clip
(arrowed)

re A tt s
6.54 Undo the screws (arrowed) 6.55a Release the pegs from the holes at 6.55b ...and remove the cover
each end...
50 Release the panel from the lower front Front handlebar cover Note: When disconnecting the wiring, it is
panel and floor panel if not removed, then advisable to mark or tag the connectors as a
54 Undo the four screws in the rear handlebar
displace the turn signal and starter relays reminder of where they connect. Ensure all
cover (see illustration).
from their bracket, release the wiring clip, and the wiring has been disconnected and remove
55 Release the tabs from the rear cover and
the cover.
remove the panel (see illustrations). draw the cover forwards (see illustrations). 61 Installation is the reverse of removal. Make
51 Installation is the reverse of removal. 56 Installation is the reverse of removal. sure the wiring connectors are correctly and
Rear handlebar cover securely connected, and check the operation
Mirrors of all instruments, warning lights and switches
57 Remove the front handlebar cover. before riding the scooter.
52 Lift the rubber boot (see illustration 5.50). 58 Remove the mirrors.
Hold the mirror stem and slacken the locknut, 59 Undo the five screws from the front and Front mudguard
then unscrew the mirror. the single screw from the back and displace 62 Either free the speedometer cable guide
53 Installation is the reverse of removal - the cover (see illustrations). from the mudguard, or undo the screw
position the mirror as required, then hold it in 60 Disconnect the wiring connectors for the securing the cable to its drive housing on the
place and tighten the locknut. handlebar switches, noting where they fit. front wheel and draw the cable out.

| Fae poser preleete! 68 am

your horener write 8)" elt
Read the awaer's ~

6.59b ... and rear screw (arrowed)

9e22 Bodywork

63 Undo the two screws on each side and

draw the mudguard forwards (see illustration
5.62).
64 Installation is the reverse of removal.

Rear hugger
65 Undo the screw securing the left-hand
side of the hugger to the air filter housing and pes
Bins
NH-1

the bolts securing the right-hand side to the coor NAT

swingarm and manoeuvre the hugger out (see

illustration 5.64).
66 Installation is the reverse of removal.

7.1 Unlock and raise the seat 7.2 Unscrew the two nuts (arrowed)
7 PS models
compartment, noting which fits where, and
Wi the two bolts to the rear of the fuel filler cap
(see illustrations).
Seat 7 Lift the storage compartment out (see
illustration). Note the washer on the support
1 Unlock the seat and swing it up (see
illustration). lug and remove it for safekeeping (see
2 Undo the nuts securing the seat to the illustration).
hinge and remove the seat (see illustration). 8 Installation is the reverse of removal.
3 Installation is the reverse of removal.
Maintenance panels
Storage compartment 9 To remove the small access panel to the
4 Remove the seat. spark plug undo the screw, then release the
5 Undo the screw at the front (see tabs and remove the panel (see illustrations).
illustration). 10 To remove the large access panel to the
6 Unscrew the four bolts inside the battery/starter relay, undo the screw, then

7.6a ...the four bolts (arrowed)...

7.7a ...and remove the storage compartment

7.7b Note the washer (arrowed)
 Bodywork 923

7.9a Undo the screw (arrowed)... 1.9b as

release the tabs from the floor panel at the

front and sides, and remove the panel (see
illustrations).
11 Installation is the reverse of removal.

Luggage rack
12 Unlock the seat and swing it up (see
illustration 7.1).
13 Unscrew the bolts and remove the rack
(see illustration).
14 Installation is the reverse of removal.
Pan Rae tae

Body cover 7.10b ...and release the panel 7.13 Unscrew the bolts (arrowed) and
15 Remove the storage compartment. remove the rack
16 Undo the three screws securing the centre
section, noting which fits where, then release 19 Undo the two screws on each side (see (see illustrations). Disconnect the tail light
the tabs from the body cover and remove it illustration). assembly wiring connector and remove the
(see illustrations). 20 Release the body cover from the floor body cover (see illustration).
17 Remove the large maintenance panel. panel on each side and from the lug at the 21 Installation is the reverse of removal.
18 Remove the luggage rack. back and draw the assembly back a little Make sure the wiring connector is securely

side

7.20a Release the tabs from the floor 7.20b ...then draw the cover back... 7.20c ... and disconnect the wiring
panel on each side... connector
9e24 Bodywork

7.22a Undo the screws (arrowed) on each 7.22b ...and the screw (arrowed) at the
side... back

7.23b ... then release the hooks by sliding 7.23c ...and remove it
the panel back... Footrest bracket bolts (B)
connected, and check the operation of the 26 Remove the belly panel.
turn signals, brake light and tail light before 27 Remove the inner front panel.
riding the scooter. 28 Undo the screw on each side at the back
(see illustration).
Belly panel 29 Unscrew the passenger footrest bracket
22 Undo the two screws on each side and bolts on one side (see illustration 7.28). Lift
the screw at the back (see illustrations). the floor panel and remove the one footrest
23 Detach the fuel drain hose (see assembly (see illustration) — remove both if
illustration). Slide the panel back to release required, but there is no need.
it from the floor panel hooks, then remove the 30 Remove the battery (see Chapter 10).
belly panel out from under the scooter (see Release the battery leads and starter relay
illustrations). from the floor panel, noting their routing (see
24 Installation is the reverse of removal. illustration).
7.29 Lift the panel and manoeuvre the 31 Undo the four screws along the front of the
Floor panel
footrest out panel (see illustration).
25 Remove the body cover. 32 Unscrew the floor panel bolts and

7.31 Undo the screws (arrowed) on each side

 Bodywork 925

7.32a Unscrew the bolts (arrowed) ... 7.32b ...and remove the floor panel 7.34a Undo the upper screws
(arrowed)... y

remove the panel, manoeuvring it around the belly panel (see illustration 7.22a) and the
remaining passenger footrest if not removed four screws along the front of the floor panel
(see illustrations). (see illustration 7.31).
33 Installation is the reverse of removal. 40 Disconnect the turn signal wiring
connectors (see illustration).
41 Unscrew the bolt in the front (see
Upper front panel illustration). Carefully pull the panel forwards
34 Undo the two screws at the top and the two to release the pegs from the grommets at each
on the underside (see illustrations). Release end of the coolant reservoir (see illustration),
and remove the panel (see illustration). then lift the panel to release the hook (see
35 Installation is the reverse of removal. illustration), then slide it down under the
forks. i
42 Installation is the reverse of removal.
Lower front panel 7.34b ...and the lower screws
36 Remove the upper front panel. Inner front panel (arrowed)...
37 Remove the inner front panel. 43 Remove the upper front panel.
38 Remove the front wheel (see Chapter 8). 44 Remove the handlebar covers. 46 Release the ignition switch cover by
Remove the front mudguard. 45 Remove the five screws on each side of turning it anti-clockwise and draw it off the
39 Undo the front screw on each side of the the panel (see illustration). switch, noting how it locates (see illus-

7.40 Disconnect the turn signal wiring

connectors

7.41c ... and the hook (arrowed) and 7.45 Undo the screws (arrowed) on each
remove the panel side
9°26 Bodywork

7.46 Twist the cover anticlockwise over 7.47 Undo the screws (arrowed) and 7.48 Unscrew the bolt (arrowed)
the tabs and draw it off the switch remove the hook

tration) — it may need to be eased off the tabs

on the switch using a screwdriver.
47 Undo the shopping bag hook screws and
remove the hook (see illustration).
48 Open the storage compartment and
unscrew the bolt (see illustration).
49 Undo the two screws at the front (see
illustration). Release the panel at the top,
then draw it out from under the handlebars
and disconnect the white 4-pin and black
6-pin wiring connectors (see illustrations).
Release it from the floor panel, and remove
the panel (see illustration).
50 Installation is the reverse of removal.

Mirrors
51 Lift the rubber boot (see illustration).
Hold the mirror stem and slacken the
locknut, then unscrew the mirror, turning the
right-hand mirror clockwise and the left one
anti-clockwise.
52 Installation is the reverse of removal —
position the mirror as required, then hold it in
place and tighten the locknut.

Front handlebar cover

53 Undo the screws in the rear cover (see
illustration).
54 Undo the screws in the bottom of the
ail front cover (see illustration). Release the
7.49d_ ...and disconnect the wiring front cover from the rear cover at each end,
connectors draw the cover forwards to free the pegs from

7.51 Lift the boot, slacken the locknut and 7.53 Undo the screws (arrowed) 7.54a Undo the screws jarrow be
unscrew the mirror
 Bodywork 9¢27

7.54b Release the pegs from the holes at 7.54c ... free the pegs from the 7.54d ... disconnect the wiring connector
eachend... grommets... and remove the cover _

the grommets, and disconnect the headlight

wiring connector (see illustrations).
55 Installation is the reverse of removal.
Make sure the wiring connector is securely
connected, and check the operation of the
headlight before riding the scooter.

Rear handlebar cover

56 Remove the front handlebar cover.
57 Remove the mirrors.
58 Undo the five screws from the front and the
single screw from the back and displace the
cover (see illustrations).
59 Disconnect the wiring connectors for the 7.58a Undo the screws (arrowed) at the 7.58b ... and the screw (arrowed) at the
handlebar switches, noting where they fit front... back...
(see illustration). Note: When disconnecting
the wiring, it is advisable to mark or tag the
connectors as a reminder of where they Rear hugger 2 Undo the nuts securing the seat to the hinge
connect. Ensure all the wiring has been 64 Undo the screw securing the left-hand and remove the seat (see illustration 9.2).
disconnected and remove the cover. 3 Installation is the reverse of removal.
side of the hugger to the air filter housing and
60 Installation is the reverse of removal. Make the bolts securing the right-hand side to the Storage compartment
sure the wiring connectors are correctly and swingarm and manoeuvre the hugger out (see
securely connected, and check the operation 4 Remove the seat. Remove the carpet (see
illustration).
of all instruments, warning lights and switches illustration 9.4).
65 Installation is the reverse of removal.
before riding the scooter. 5 Undo the tail light bulb access panel screws
and displace the panel, then disconnect the
Front mudguard 8 Pantheon models power socket and storage compartment light
61 Either free the speedometer cable guide wiring connectors (see illustrations 9.5a and
from the mudguard, or undo the screw
securing the cable to its drive housing on the
Milly b). Also disconnect the storage compartment
light switch wiring connector.
front wheel and draw the cable out. 6 Remove the battery (see Chapter 10).
62 Unscrew the bolts securing the mudguard Seat Displace the fusebox and starter relay from
and draw it forwards (see illustration). 1 Unlock the seat and swing it up (see their mounts (see illustration 9.6).
63 Installation is the reverse of removal. illustration 9.1). 7 Release the seat lock cable cover trim clip

i A A
7.59 ... then displace the cover and 7.62 Unscrew the bolts (arrowed) and 7.64 Undo the screw (A) and the bolts (B)
disconnect the switch wiring connectors remove the mudguard
9e28 Bodywork
eSSee ed

the seat lock cable out (see illustrations

9.11a and b).
12 Installation is the reverse of removal.

Maintenance panels
13 To remove the small access panel to the
engine in each floor panel, undo the screw,
then release the tabs and remove the panel
(see illustrations).
14 To remove the large access panel to the
radiator in the centre cover, unlock the seat
and swing it up (see illustration 9.1). Undo
the two screws, then release the tabs from
the centre cover and remove the panel (see
illustrations).
15 To remove the access panel to the
battery/fusebox/starter relay in the storage
compartment, unlock and raise the seat (see
illustration 9.1), then remove the carpet (see
illustration 9.4). Undo the screws and remove
the panel (see illustration 9.13).
16 Installation is the reverse of removal.

Luggage rack
17 Unlock the seat and swing it up (see
illustration 9.1).
18 Unscrew the bolts and remove the
8.14a Undo the screws (arrowed)... 8.14b ... then release the tabs and washers, then lift the rack away and remove
remove the panel the spacers, noting which fits where (see
illustration 9.19).
and remove the cover (see illustration 9.7a). 9 Undo the three screws around the front of
19 Installation is the reverse of removal.
Detach the cable from the lock mechanism the compartment.
(see illustration 9.7b). 10 Unscrew the seven bolts inside the
8 Unscrew the two bolts on the outside of the compartment (see illustration 9.10). Body cover
battery case (see illustration 9.8). 11 Lift the storage compartment and draw 20 Remove the seat.

b 21 Remove the luggage rack.

22 Remove the storage compartment.
23 Undo the two screws above the licence
plate and the two screws on each side (see
illustrations).
24 Unscrew the bolt near the seat hinge.
Remove the seat hinge.
25 Release the body cover from the floor
panel on each side and draw the assembly
back a little. Disconnect the tail light assembly
wiring connectors and remove the body
cover.
26 Installation is the reverse of removal.
Make sure the wiring connectors are securely
connected, and check the operation of the
turn signals, brake light and tail light before
riding the scooter.

Centre cover
27 Remove the seat.
28 Remove the storage compartment.
29 Remove the large maintenance panel to
the radiator.
30 Unscrew the bolt near the seat hinge.
Undo the screw on each side of the front of
the body cover (see illustration 8.23c).
31 Raise the fuel filler cap cover. Undo the
screws and remove the cover from the hinge
8.23c ... and the screw (arrowed) 8.31 Undo the screws (A) and remove the (see illustration). Unscrew the bolt next to
cover, then unscrew the bolt (B) the hinge.
 Bodywork 929

———
wy * Pat
8.32 Undo the screws (arrowed) on each 8.33 Undo the screw (arrowed) on each
side side

8.36 Undo the screws (A) and the bolts (B) 8.47 Undo the screw (A) and the bolts (B)

32 Undo the two screws on each side of the 40 Unscrew the two bolts on each side (see 46 Remove the inner front panel.
centre cover (see illustration). illustration 9.35). 47 Undo the screw at the back and the two
33 Release the body cover from the floor 41 Slide the panel back to release the tab bolts (see illustration). Release the panel
panel on each side to expose the rear screws at the front, then detach the fuel drain hose from the frame and remove the panel.
for the centre cover, then undo the screws and remove the belly panel out from under the 48 Installation is the reverse of removal.
- (see illustration). Draw the centre cover back scooter.
to release the tabs from the floor covers, and Upper front panel
42 Installation is the reverse of removal.
remove the cover. 49 Undo the two screws at the top and the
34 Installation is the reverse of removal. Floor panels two on the underside (see illustrations).
Make sure the wiring connectors are securely 50 Draw the panel forwards to free the
43 Remove the body cover.
connected, and check the operation of the
44 Remove the centre cover. pegs from the grommets, then disconnect
turn signals, brake light and tail light before
45 Remove the lower covers. the headlight wiring connector and remove
riding the scooter.

Lower covers
835 Release the floor mat locating pegs from
the floor covers and remove the mats (see
illustration).
36 Undo the three screws along the top and
the two bolts on the side (see illustration).
37 Release the tabs from the floor panel and
the lower front cover and remove the cover —
when removing the left-hand cover, move the
sidestand as required.
38 Installation is the reverse of removal.

Belly panel 8.49a Undo the screw (arrowed) on each 8.49b ... and the screws (arrowed) on the
side... underside . .
39 Remove the lower covers.
9e30 Bodywork

8.50a ... then release the panel... 8.50b ...and disconnect the headlight 8.54 Disconnect the wiring connector
wiring connector (arrowed) (arrowed) on each side

the panel along with the headlight (see 58 Installation is the reverse of removal. 68 Undo the shopping bag hook screws and
illustrations). remove the hook (see illustration 9.66).
51 Installation is the reverse of removal.
Inner front panel 69 Release the panel from the top of the
59 Remove the centre cover. lower front panel, then draw it out from under
Lower front panel 60 Remove the upper front panel. the handlebars and release it from the floor
52 Remove the upper front panel. 61 Remove the rear handlebar cover. panel and remove the panel.
53 Remove the front mudguard. Remove the 62 Release the ignition switch cover by 70 Installation is the reverse of removal.
front wheel (see Chapter 8). turning it anti-clockwise and draw it off the
54 Disconnect the turn signal wiring switch, noting how it locates (see illustration Mirrors
connectors (see illustration). 9,57) — it may need to be eased off the tabs on 71 Lift the rubber boot (see illustration
55 Undo the two screws in the front (see the switch using a screwdriver. 7.51). Hold the mirror stem and slacken the
illustration 9.49a), and the five screws 63 Release the wiring from the clamp. locknut, then unscrew the mirror, turning the
on each side of the inner front panel (see 64 Release the floor mat locating pegs from right-hand mirror clockwise and the left one
illustration). the floor covers and remove the mats (see anti-clockwise.
56 Unscrew the bolt on each side at the illustration 8.35). 72 Installation is the reverse of removal —
bottom (see illustration 9.50a) and the two 65 Undo the two screws in the front of the position the mirror as required, then hold it in
bolts in the front (see illustration 9.50b). lower front panel (see illustration 9.49a). place and tighten the locknut.
57 Carefully pull the panel forwards to release 66 Unscrew the two bolts on each side at the
the pegs from the grommets and the bottom bottom (see illustration 9.63). Handlebar covers, windshield
of the panel from the belly panel tab, then 67 Undo the five screws on each side of the and instrument cover
slide it down under the forks. panel (see illustration 8.55). 73 To remove the front handlebar cover undo
ve
the six screws in the rear cover and remove
the front cover (see illustrations).
74 To remove the windshield, remove the front
handlebar cover, then undo the four screws
and remove the windshield (see illustration).
75 To remove the inner front cover, remove
the front handlebar cover and windshield, then
undo the three screws and remove the cover
(see illustration).
76 To remove the instrument cover, remove the
front handlebar cover, windshield, inner front
cover and the mirrors. Disconnect the instrument
cluster wiring connector and displace the turn
8.55 Undo the screws (arrowed) on each 8.73a Undo the screws (arrowed) on each signal relay, then undo the screws and displace
side side...
the cover, disconnect the dimmer switch wiring

8.75 Undo the screws (arrowed) and

remove the cover
 Bodywork 9e31

8.76a Disconnect the wiring connector (A) and displace the relay 8.76b ... and the rear screws (arrowed)
(B), then undo the front screws (arrowed)...

connector, and remove the cover along with the and draw it forwards (see illustration 9.85).
instrument cluster (see illustrations). 80 Installation is the reverse of removal.
77 To remove the rear handlebar cover,
remove the front handlebar cover, windshield Rear hugger
and inner front cover. Detach the throttle 81 Undo the screw securing the left-hand
cable from the throttle pulley and housing (see side of the hugger to the back of the air filter
Chapter 5A). Disconnect the wiring connectors housing (see illustration 9.87).
for the handlebar switches, noting where they 82 Unscrew the bolts securing the right-hand
fit. Note: When disconnecting the wiring, it is side of the hugger to the swingarm, noting how
advisable to mark or tag the connectors as a they secure the brake hose guide, and manoeuvre
reminder of where they connect. Undo the the hugger out (see illustration 9.88).
screw and remove the cover, drawing it off the 83 Installation is the reverse of removal.
ae
throttle cable (see illustration).
8.77 Undo the screw (arrowed) and 78 Installation is the reverse of removal. 9 S-wing models
remove the cover - note the routing of the
throttle cable Front mudguard
79 Unscrew the bolts securing the mudguard WU
Seat
1 Unlock the seat and swing it up (see
illustration).
2 Undo the nuts securing the seat to the
hinge and remove the seat (see illustration).
3 Installation is the reverse of removal.

Storage compartment
4 Remove the seat. Remove the carpet (see
illustration).
5 Undo the tail light bulb access panel screws
and displace the panel, then disconnect the
9.2 Unscrew the nuts (arrowed) and
power socket and storage compartment
remove the seat
light wiring connectors (see illustrations).

a a é
‘i seh dee
a :1

™ = Z

9.4 Lift the carpet out 9.5a Undo the screws (arrowed) and 9.5b ...and disconnect the wiring from it
displace the panel...
9e32 Bodywork

9.6 Displace the fusebox and relay 9.7a Release the trim clip (arrowed) and 9.7b ... then detach the cable
remove the cover...

Also disconnect the storage compartment 6 Remove the battery (see Chapter 10). clip and remove the cover (see illustration).
light switch wiring connector — do this after Displace the fusebox and starter relay from Detach the cable from the lock mechanism
displacing the storage compartment for easier _their mounts (see illustration). (see illustration).
access if necessary. 7 Release the seat lock cable cover trim 8 Unscrew the two bolts on the outside of the
battery case (see illustration).
9 Remove the centre cover (Steps 14 to 16).
Undo the two screws around the front of the
compartment (see illustration).
10 Unscrew the seven bolts inside the
compartment (see illustration).
11 Lift the storage compartment and
draw the seat lock cable out (see illus-
trations).
12 Installation is the reverse of removal.

Maintenance panel
ji 13 To remove the access panel to the
9.9 Undo the screw (arrowed) on each battery/fusebox/starter relay in the storage
side compartment, unlock and raise the seat,
then remove the carpet (see illustrations 9.1
and 9.4). Undo the screws and remove the
panel (see illustration). Installation is the
reverse of removal.

Centre cover
14 Unlock the seat and swing it up (see
illustration 9.1).
15 Undo the screw and release the trim clip
on each side (see illustration).
16 Release the tabs on each side at the
back of the cover from the body cover,
_ =e 2 .a é i then release the tabs along the front and
9.10 Unscrew the bolts (arrowed)... 9.11a ... then lift the storage slide the cover back to release the hooks
compartment out... along each side from the slots in the

9.11b ...and draw the cable out 9.13 Undo the screws (arrowed) and 9.15 Undo the screw (A) and release the
remove the panel trim clip (B) on each side...
 Bodywork 9¢33

ae

9.16 ...then release the tabs and remove 9.19 Unscrew the bolts (arrowed) and 9.26a Undo the screws (arrowed) on each
the cover remove the rack side...

body cover and remove the panel (see

illustration).
17 Installation is the reverse of removal.

Luggage rack
18 Unlock the seat and swing it up (see
illustration 9.1).
19 Unscrew the bolts and remove the
washers, then lift the rack away (see
illustration).
20 Installation is the reverse of removal.
et, ¢ A
9.26b ...and the screw (arrowed) on each
Body cover side...
21 Remove the seat.
22 Remove the luggage rack. Lower covers the screw to the rear of the passenger
23 Remove the storage compartment. 30 Release the floor mat locating pegs from footrest, and the two bolts on the side (see
24 Remove the centre cover. the floor covers and remove the mats (see illustrations).
25 Remove the seat hinge. illustration). 32 Release the tabs from the floor panel
26 Undo the three screws on each side at the 31 Undo the three screws along the top, and the lower front cover and remove the
front and the screw on each side at the back
(see illustrations).
27 Unscrew the two bolts on the top (see
illustration).
28 Release the body cover from the front inner
cover and floor panel on each side, then pull
each side out to free the screw lugs and draw
the assembly back a little (see illustrations).
_ Disconnect the tail light assembly wiring
connectors and remove the body cover.
29 Installation is the reverse of removal.
Make sure the wiring connectors are securely
connected, and check the operation of the
turn signals, brake light and tail light before
riding the scooter.

9.30 Release and remove the floor mat 9.31a Undo the screws (arrowed) ... 9.31b ... the screw (A) and the bolts (B)
9e34 Bodywork

9.32 Release the tabs and remove the 9.35 Unscrew the bolts (arrowed) on each
cover side

9.41b Release and remove the panel 9.44a Undo the screws (arrowed) . . . 9.44b ... then pull the panel off

cover (see illustration) - when removing Belly panel Upper front panels
the left-hand cover, move the sidestand as 34 Remove the lower covers. 43 Remove the windshield (Steps 72 and
required. 35 Unscrew the two bolts on each side (see 73).
33 Installation is the reverse of removal. illustration). 44 Undo the two screws at the top of the
36 Slide the panel back to release the tab headlight trim panel, then pull the panel away
at the front, then detach the fuel drain hose to release the snap-fit clips (see illustrations).
and remove the belly panel out from under the 45 Undo the two screws, then release
scooter. the panel from the instrument cover (see
37 Installation is the reverse of removal. illustrations).
46 Installation is the reverse of removal.
Floor panels Lower front panel
38 Remove the centre cover. 47 Remove the headlight trim panel (Steps
39 Remove the lower covers. 43 and 44).
40 Remove the inner front panel. 48 Release the floor mat locating pegs from
41 Undo the two screws at the back (see the inner front panel and remove the mats
illustration 9.26a). Unscrew the two bolts (see illustration).
(see illustration). Release the panel from the 49 Undo the two screws in the front, and the
frame and remove it (see illustration). four screws on each side of the inner front
42 Installation is the reverse of removal. panel (see illustrations).

9.48 Release and remove the floor mat on 9.49a Undo the screw (arrowed) on each
each side side...
 Bodywork 9¢35

<.
& 7}
rs

9.49b ... and the four screws (arrowed) on 9.50a Unscrew the bolt (arrowed) on each 9.50b ...and the bolts (arrowed) at the
each side side... front

50 Unscrew the bolt on each side at the lower front panel (see illustration 9.49a). 63 Unscrew the two bolts on each side at the
bottom and the two bolts in the front (see 62 Undo the two screws on each side at the bottom (see illustration).
illustrations). back of the panel (see illustration). 64 Undo the three screws securing the
51 Carefully pull the panel forwards to release
the snap-fit clips, and the bottom of the panel
from the belly panel tab, then manoeuvre it
down and out from between the forks and the
frame (see illustration).
52 Installation is the reverse of removal.

Inner front panel

53 Remove the instrument cover.
54 Remove the centre cover.
55 Undo the four screws on each side of
the body cover securing it to the storage
compartment, inner front panel and floor
9.51 Release and remove the panel as 9.56 Unscrew the bolt (arrowed)
covers (see illustrations 9.26a and b).
described
Carefully release the body cover from the
inner front panel and floor covers on each side
(see illustration 9.28a).
56 Raise the fuel filler cap cover. Unscrew the
bolt next to the hinge (see illustration).
57 Release the ignition switch cover by
turning it anti-clockwise and draw it off the
switch, noting how it locates (see illustration)
- it may need to be eased off the tabs on the
switch using a screwdriver.
58 Release the fuel hose guide peg from the
grommet (see illustration).
59 Release the wiring guide (see
illustration).
Been oe Boor a sb oeaung pegs and 9.57 Twist the cover anticlockwise over
remove the mats (see illustration 9.48). the tabs and draw it off the switch
61 Undo the two screws in the front of the

9.59 ... and the wiring guide 9.62 Undo the screws (arrowed) 9.63 Unscrew the bolts (arrowed) on each
side
9°36 Bodywork

9.64a Undo the screws (arrowed) ... 9.64b ... then release the snap-fit clips as 9.66 Undo the screws (arrowed) and
described and remove the panel remove the hook
trim panel (see illustration). Carefully ease
the five snap-fit clips free using a taped-up
screwdriver, inserting it at the top-right-hand
corner and working it down the side and along
the bottom to free the three clips there, then
starting again top-right and working along the
top to release the two clips (see illustration).
65 Undo the four screws on each side of the
panel (see illustration 9.49b).
66 Undo the shopping bag hook screws and
remove the hook (see illustration).
67 Slightly spread the front of the body cover
on each side, then draw the inner front panel
back to free its tabs and hooks from the floor
panels and remove it (see illustrations).
68 Installation is the reverse of removal.
Mirrors and mirror covers
69 Lift the rubber boot, then unscrew the two
bolts and remove the mirror (see illustration).
70 Undo the two screws securing the cover,
then release the tabs and remove the cover
(see illustrations).

|
71 Installation is the reverse of removal. To
re-position the mirror as required, slacken the
upper nut on the mirror stem, move the mirror,
then hold it and tighten the nut.
Windshield
Aj 72 Remove the mirrors and mirror covers.
e ; LA aS 73 Undo the six screws, noting the plastic
9.69 Unscrew the bolts (arrowed) and 9.70a Undo the screws (arrowed)... washers, and remove the windshield (see
remove the mirror illustration).
74 Installation is the reverse of removal.

at

9.70b ... and remove the cover ; 9.73 Windshield screws (arrowed)
 Bodywork 9°37

9.75a Undo the screws (arrowed) 9.75b Release the tabs and the clip and 9.76a Undo the screws (arrowed)
remove the cover

Handlebar covers 81 Undo the five screws along the back of the back from the inner front panel and remove
75 To remove the lower handlebar cover cover (see illustration). Release the centre the cover along with the instrument cluster,
undo the two screws, then release the tab on section tabs and remove it (see illustration). noting how its pegs locate in the grommets
each end and the snap-fit clip in the centre 82 Release the two snap-fit clips on each (see illustrations).
from the upper cover, and remove the cover side, then release the screw tabs along the 83 Installation is the reverse of removal.
(see illustrations).
76 To remove the upper handlebar cover,
remove the lower cover. Undo the two screws
on the underside, then release the peg from
the grommet and remove the cover (see
illustrations).
Instrument cover
77 Remove the lower and upper handlebar
covers and the upper front panel.
78 Refer to Step 64 and remove the trim
panel from the inner front panel.
79 Unscrew the bolts and remove the bracket
cross-piece (see illustration).
80 Disconnect the instrument cluster wiring 9.76b Release the peg and remove the
connector (see illustration).
cover

*. va
9.82a Release the snap-fit clips... 9.82b ...and remove the cover... . » noting how the instrument
cluster peg (arrowed) on each side locates
9°38 Bodywork

9.85 Front mudguard bolts (arrowed)

Dy
9.87 Undo the screw (arrowed)... 9.88 ... and the bolts (arrowed)

Front mudguard Rear hugger hand side of the hugger to the swingarm,
84 Remove the front wheel (see Chapter 8). 87 Undo the screw securing the left-hand noting how they secure the brake hose
85 Unscrew the bolts and manoeuvre the _ side of the hugger to the back of the air filter guide, and manoeuvre the hugger out (see
mudguard out (see illustration). housing (see illustration). illustration).
86 Installation is the reverse of removal. 88 Unscrew the bolts securing the right- 89 Installation is the reverse of removal.
 10¢1

Chapter 10
Electrical system
Contents Section number Section number
OUIGIMTE HOLE ras 6 Pecal save 0 BERENS ELSri aa ee 28 Instrument and warning light bulbs .....-.-.2.5. j0:+---+2s4e- Ae
Atenas ating tommy Ree Ties Ne BN Zke easlst, 2s Poe ce et chew 4 Instrument checks ic: ca.» attedeteastenteeowlt
ileeheci nn eevee Pees 16
Battery removal, installation and inspection ................... 3 IStRUMeN CIS tres. syeeieune becekete ac aes care he Meee ee 15
ErOReOiGht SWItCheSias 4. Le We cease sieeve wobec aecs hac w tee 14 LIQGHtNGISYSteM CHECK: pee cree gies peur a ote le ara toe aap ee 6
Brake/tail light bulb and license plate bulb .................... 9 RMeguiator/roctiticnamrarn: rceteus st gai nisigeact atte alle chs eee ae 29
Paging SVStchl tastinGeece ace ihekds Pale ahs < o's bo cpad < dn es coe ce 2 SIGESLANG SSWICH Artes sce nna erie tne nee eect hit te eieger, har eee tee 21
Eecthical system faulb findingy. fi<ig4 feels se bc cee ene ae te 2 Speedometer cable or speed SenSor...........002seeeeeceaee 18
PISS ElgteNnTET Re]EAE MRSSale eelSg we oe et a a a StanreranMpltOr SWC namie nas stare ache: shcahs ius ye ena ances oun 22
Sonera Oma agen re cing antl oe. eee + oe le se eee eects 1 Starter motor overiedl uj. tse. ce co comms sets RPKPt 26
mcniclebar switches se me Beek ate Se we ss oe gs eta ee 20 Starter motor removal and installation.....................+2- 25
meacioht and sidelignt DUIDS: wa. 2 oes caueds oe ee ec en es 7 Staten TelaViermmn see Metess ce mpecevean enasters execs, « fire,ach arm ue ete eon oe 24
CAA atone tere eae iets «bi Nite be kee ed oes Oe 8 Valhihitmerccertistgas ties vs Sore tee tee, © eee cece aster eee oe eee 10
PYSIIN coi: ohginienc. coeaeheurgey ie Flieee CELE OCs aca) ine a es 23 TUrHSIGHAl'ASSOMBUCS: aepec. wetem atin em mic one atte orc ieters caine 13
PREC S MILE inn een ESET wieits 2 Says SIRE GhE sss es ae ee oe oe ase 19 MUM SlOMal Ul Steratn os etc, eke ead iene ee aa are 12
Ignition system components ................20000: see Chapter 6 TUM SiGnalrGiIrGulcMneck, nce. «eae see hosts s cece riteee ote ee ene 11

Degrees of difficulty
Easy, suitable for Fairly easy, suitable Fairly difficult, EN Difficult, suitable N Very difficult,
<
SN eS
novice with little for beginner with suitable for competent ay for experienced DIY & suitable for expert
experience ~ES some experience w
~ DIY mechanic mechanic DIY or professional

Specifications
Battery
Capacity 12 V,6Ah
Voltage
Filta epee fetelhe S Beeline #8 oo Ce) Or OREO Ree EE ae 13.0 to 13.2 V
“UGE(| sees. Oa, ho SCENES Sin, OP Et ee below 12.3 V
Charging rate
HEAP NIEH S05 Jy cle eee ane a SI aoe eee 0.6 A for 5 to 10 hrs
3.0 A for 1 hr

Charging system
Current leakage
2001 to 2004 SH; Dylan'and @ models ..,.....2..050eneneee 1.0 mA (max)
POOS-OM OH AMG PS MMOGEIS cis cixdes a ce oie +o wladis erase 6 oe mom Reyne 0.2 mA (max)
Pantheon and S-wing models ..........00000sece cece renee 0.1 mA (max)
Alternator stator coil resistance ......-..00ceecene eres ew nee nne 0.1 to 0.5 ohms
Alternator output
2001 to 2004 SH, Dylan and @ models..........-..see sees vane 230 W @ 5000 rpm
2005-on SH, PS, Pantheon and S-wing models ............-... 300 W @ 5000 rpm
Regulated voltage output... .. 2-6... ee eee ee eee eee 14.5 to 15.3 V @ 5000 rpm

Starter motor
Brush length
Standatdte 2024 seats AE ite scare cs SRO ele 2Bee hes 10 to 10.5 mm
Service limit (Min)... [..- 6 60ers 6.5 mm
}
10¢2 Electrical system
ee ee

Fuses
Main 30 A
Others 15 Aor 10 A (see Section 5)

Bulbs
Headlight
@, Pantheon and S-wing models.......... 55W x2
SH, Dylan and PS models ............... 60/55W x1
Sidelight
Brakentalilighttamtrscysctvetns
oberctetcnerccs mise ean
Licence: platelighte-c) smsrci.o).
cote ache sinc uctats
TUNA SOME GM Seewe, ie ie oat eieka a above rey «

Torque settings
PANILEY MaAtOrmroton Mutat tis ene alt,suvis: ate nee starsat 116 Nm
AltenmatOnstatOh DOltSaecratnas voids cele s 3 12 Nm

use a dedicated electrical cleaning spray along

1 General information 2 Electrical system fault with sandpaper, wire wool or other abrasive
finding material to remove corrosion, and a dedicated
electrical protection spray to prevent further
problems. All of the connections and wires
All models have a 12 volt electrical system 1 A typical electrical circuit consists of an should also be wiggled to check for looseness
which can cause intermittent failure.
charged by a three-phase alternator with a electrical component, the switches, relays,
4 If you don’t have a multimeter it is highly
separate regulator/rectifier. etc, related to that component and the wiring
advisable to obtain one —- they are not
The regulator maintains the charging system and connectors that link the component to the
expensive and will enable a full range of
output within the specified range to prevent battery and the frame.
electrical tests to be made. Go for a modern
overcharging, and the rectifier converts the 2 Before tackling any troublesome electrical
digital one with LCD display as they are
ac (alternating current) output of the alternator circuit, first study the wiring diagram
easier to use. A continuity tester and/or test
to de (direct current) to power the lights and thoroughly to get a complete picture of what
light are useful for certain electrical checks
other electrical systems and components makes up that individual circuit. Trouble
as an alternative, though are limited in their
and to charge the battery. The alternator spots, for instance, can often be narrowed
usefulness compared to a multimeter (see
rotor is mounted on the right-hand end of the down by noting if other components related
illustrations).
crankshaft. to that circuit are operating properly or not. If
The starter motor is mounted on the top of several components or circuits fail at one time, Continuity checks
the crankcase. The starting system includes chances are the fault lies either in the fuse or 5 The term continuity describes the
the motor, the battery, the relay and the various in the common earth (ground) connection, as uninterrupted flow of electricity through an
wires and switches. A safety system, either several circuits are often routed through the electrical circuit. Continuity can be checked
using the brake light switch(es) or a separate same fuse and earth (ground) connections. with a multimeter set either to its continuity
inhibitor switch (depending on model), 3 Electrical problems often stem from simple function (a beep is emitted when continuity
prevents the engine from being started unless causes, such as loose or corroded connections is found), or to the resistance (ohms / Q)
the rear brake lever, or on some models either or a blown fuse. Prior to any electrical fault function, or with a dedicated continuity tester.
brake lever, is pulled in. On models with a finding, always visually check the condition of Both instruments are powered by an internal
sidestand, the sidestand switch prevents the the fuse, wires and connections in the problem battery, therefore the checks are made with
engine from being started if it isdown. circuit. Intermittent failures can be especially the ignition OFF. As a safety precaution,
Note: Keep in mind that electrical parts, once frustrating, since you can’t always duplicate always disconnect the battery negative (-) lead
purchased, often cannot be returned. To avoid the failure when it’s convenient to test. In before making continuity checks, particularly
unnecessary expense, make very sure the such situations, a good practice is to clean all if ignition switch checks are being made.
faulty component has been positively identified connections in the affected circuit, whether or 6 If using a multimeter, select the continuity
before buying a replacement part. not they appear to be good - where possible function if it has one, or the resistance (ohms)

2.4a A digital multimeter can be used for 2.4c A simple test light is useful for
all electrical tests
voltage tests
 Electrical system 103

H46305
H46304 oe
2.12 Wiring continuity check. Connect the 2.15 Voltage check. Connect the meter
meter probes across each end of the same positive probe to the component and the
wire negative probe to earth

2.10 Continuity should be indicated across wire (see illustration). Continuity (low or no is voltage, you know the problem lies between
switch terminals when lever is operated resistance — 0 ohms) should be indicated if the that point and your last check point.
wire is good. If no continuity (high resistance)
function. Touch the meter probes together is shown, suspect a broken wire.
Earth (ground) checks
and check that a beep is emitted or the meter 13 To check for continuity to earth in any 20 Earth connections are made either directly
reads zero, which indicates continuity. If there earth wire connect one probe of your meter to the engine or frame via the mounting of the
is no continuity there will be no beep or the or tester to the earth wire terminal in the component, or by a separate wire into the
meter will show infinite resistance. After using connector and the other to the frame, engine, earth circuit of the wiring harness. Alternatively
the meter, always switch it OFF to conserve or battery earth (-) terminal. Continuity (low or a short earth wire is sometimes run from the
its battery. no resistance - 0 ohms) should be indicated component directly to the scooter’s frame.
7 Acontinuity tester can be used in the same if the wire is good. If no continuity (high 21 Corrosion is a common cause of a poor
way -— its light should come on or it should resistance) is shown, suspect a broken wire or earth connection, as is a loose earth terminal
beep to indicate continuity in the switch ON corroded or loose earth point (see below). fastener.
position, but should be off or silent in the OFF 22 \|f total or multiple component failure is
position. Voltage checks experienced, check the security of the main
8 Note that the polarity of the test probes 14 A voltage check can determine whether earth lead from the negative (-) terminal of the
doesn’t matter for continuity checks, although power is reaching a component. Use a battery, the earth lead bolted to the engine,
care should be taken to follow specific test multimeter set to the dc voltage scale, or a test and the main earth point(s) on the frame. If
procedures if a diode or solid-state component light. The test light is the cheaper component, corroded, dismantle the connection and clean
is being checked. but the meter has the advantage of being able all surfaces back to bare metal. Remake the
to give a voltage reading. connection and prevent further corrosion from
Switch continuity checks forming by smearing battery terminal grease
15 Connect the meter or test light in parallel,
9 If a switch is at fault, trace its wiring to the i.e. across the load (see illustration). over the connection.
wiring connectors. Separate the connectors 16 First identify the relevant wiring circuit by 23 To check the earth of a component,
and inspect them for security and condition. referring to the wiring diagram at the end of use an insulated jumper wire to temporarily
A build-up of dirt or corrosion here will most this manual. If other electrical components bypass its earth connection (see illustration)
likely be the cause of the problem — clean up share the same power supply (i.e. are fed from — connect one end of the jumper wire to the
and apply a water dispersant such as WD40, the same fuse), take note whether they are earth terminal or metal body of the component
or alternatively use a dedicated contact working correctly — this is useful information in and the other end to the scooter’s frame. If the
cleaner and protection spray. circuit works with the jumper wire installed,
deciding where to start checking the circuit.
10 If using a multimeter, select the continuity the earth circuit is faulty.
17 If using a meter, check first that the meter
function if it has one, or the resistance (ohms) 24 To check an earth wire first check for
leads are plugged into the correct terminals on
function, and connect its probes to the terminals corroded or loose connections, then check
the meter (red to positive (+), black to negative
in the connector (see illustration). Simple ON/ the wiring for continuity (Step 13) between
(-). Set the meter to the dc volts function, where
OFF type switches, such as brake light switches, each connector in the circuit in turn, and then
necessary at a range suitable for the battery
only have two wires whereas combination to its earth point, to locate the break.
voltage — 0 to 20 vde. Connect the meter red
switches, like the handlebar switches, have probe (+) to the power supply wire and the
many wires. Study the wiring diagram to ensure black probe to a good metal earth (ground) on
that you are connecting to the correct pair of the scooter’s frame or directly to the battery
wires. Continuity should be indicated with the negative terminal. Battery voltage should be
switch ON and no continuity with it OFF. shown on the meter with the ignition switch,
Wiring continuity checks and if necessary any other relevant switch, ON.
11 Many electrical faults are caused by 18 If using a test light, connect its positive
damaged wiring, often due to incorrect routing (+) probe to the power supply terminal and
or chaffing on frame components. Loose, wet its negative (-) probe to a good earth (ground)
or corroded wire connectors can also be the on the scooter’s frame. With the switch, and if
cause of electrical problems. necessary any other relevant switch, ON, the
412 A continuity check can be made on a test light should illuminate.
single length of wire by disconnecting it 19 If no voltage is indicated, work back
towards the fuse continuing to check for 2.23 A selection of insulated jumper wires
at each end and connecting the meter or
continuity tester probes to each end of the voltage. When you reach a point where there
10°4 Electrical system

3.2a Undo the screws (arrowed) and 3.2b Disconnect the negative lead first, 3.2c ... and lift the battery out
remove the retainer then disconnect the positive lead
(arrowed)...
Unscrew the negative (-) terminal bolt first access the positive (+) terminal, then unscrew
3 Battery removal, installation 2. and disconnect the lead from the battery (see the bolt and disconnect the lead. Draw the
and inspection . x illustration). Lift up the red insulating cover to battery out (see illustration).
access the positive (+) terminal, then unscrew 5 On installation, clean the battery terminals
bs the bolt and disconnect the lead. Lift the and lead ends with a wire brush, fine
Caution: Be extremely careful when battery out (see illustration). sandpaper or steel wool. Reconnect the leads,
handling or working around the battery. 3 On Dylan and @ models unscrew the connecting the positive (+) terminal first.
The electrolyte is very caustic and an negative (-) terminal bolt first and disconnect
explosive gas (hydrogen) is given off when the lead from the battery (see illustration). fia) Battery corrosion can be
Lift up the red insulating cover to access the kept to a minimum by
the battery is charging.
positive (+) terminal, then unscrew the bolt applying a layer of battery
Removal and installation and disconnect the lead. Unscrew the battery terminal grease or petroleum
retainer bolt and remove the battery (see jelly (Vaseline) to the terminals after the
1 Make sure the ignition is switched OFF. illustration). leads have been connected. DO NOT
Remove the maintenance access panel to the 4 On Pantheon and S-wing models unscrew use a mineral based grease.
battery (see Chapter 9). the negative (-) terminal bolt first and
2 On SH and PS models undo the screws and disconnect the lead from the battery (see
remove the battery retainer (see illustration). illustration). Lift up the red insulating cover to 6 Where removed fit the battery retainer
(see illustration 3.2a or 3.3b). Install the
maintenance access panel (see Chapter 9).

Inspection
7 The battery fitted to all models covered
in this manual is of the maintenance-free
(sealed) type, therefore requiring no regular
maintenance. However, the following checks
4 3 sins 4 should still be performed.
# in i ce ,
8 Check the battery terminals and leads
s, ee e "g are tight and free of corrosion. If corrosion
.
ip:
BS
i
Pe ale e is evident, clean the terminals as described
Pies a _. above, then protect them from further
3.3a On Dylan and @ models disconnect 3.3b Unscrew the bolt (arrowed) and corrosion (see Haynes Hint).
the negative lead (A) first, then disconnect remove the retainer, then remove the 9 Keep the battery case clean to prevent
the positive lead (B) battery current leakage, which can discharge the
battery over a period of time (especially when
it sits unused). Wash the outside of the case
with a solution of baking soda and water.
Rinse the battery thoroughly, then dry it.
10 Look for cracks in the case and replace
the battery with a new one if any are found. If
acid has been spilled on the frame or battery
box, neutralise it with a baking soda and water
solution, dry it thoroughly, then touch up any
damaged paint.
11 If the scooter sits unused for long periods
of time, disconnect the cables from the battery
terminals, negative (-) terminal first. Refer to
Section 4 and charge the battery once every
3.4a On Pantheon and S-wing models 3.4b ...and draw the battery out month to six weeks.
disconnect the negative lead (A) first, then
12 Check the condition of the battery by
disconnect the positive lead (B)... measuring the voltage present at the battery
 Electrical system 10°5

terminals (see illustration). Connect the

voltmeter positive (+) probe to the battery
positive (+) terminal, and the negative (-)
probe to the battery negative (-) terminal.
When fully-charged there should be 13.0 to
13.2 volts present. If the voltage falls below
12.3 volts remove the battery (see above), and
recharge it as described below in Section 4.

4 Battery charging
H46301

3.12 Checking battery voltage 4.1 Battery connected to a charger

Caution: Be extremely careful when be required. A sound item will tend to lose its circuit. If the complete lighting circuits fail at
handling or working around the battery. charge at about 1% per day. the same time, check the main relay. If there
The electrolyte is very caustic and an 4 Install the battery (see Section 3). are no electrical systems working at all, check
explosive gas (hydrogen) is given off when 5 If the scooter sits unused for long periods the main fuse.
the battery is charging. of time, charge the battery once every month
1 Remove the battery (see Section 3). Fuses
to six weeks and leave it disconnected.
Connect the charger to the battery, making 2 The electrical system is protected by fuses
sure that the positive (+) lead on the charger of different ratings. The main fuse is integral
x
is connected to the positive (+) terminal on the
5 Fuses and main relay
with the starter relay. The other fuses are all
battery, and the negative (-) lead is connected housed in the fusebox.
to the negative (-) terminal (see illustration). Ss
®R 3 To access the main fuse remove the
2 Honda recommend that the battery is maintenance access panel to the battery (see
charged at the normal rate specified at the 1 If one particular electrical circuit or Chapter 9). Disconnect the starter relay wiring
beginning of the Chapter. Exceeding this component fails to work, i.e. the brake lights connector (see illustrations).
figure can cause the battery to overheat, or the horn, check the individual fuse for that 4 To access the fusebox, on 2001 to 2008 SH
buckling the plates and rendering it useless.
Few owners will have access to an expensive
current controlled charger, so if a normal
domestic charger is used check that after a
possible initial peak, the charge rate falls to a
‘safe level. If the battery becomes hot during
charging stop. Further charging will cause
damage. Note: /n emergencies the battery
can be charged at the quick rate specified.
However, this is not recommended and the
normal charging rate is by far the safer method
of charging the battery.
3 If the recharged battery discharges
. rapidly if left disconnected it is likely that an
internal short caused by physical damage or 5.3a Starter relay (arrowed) - SH and PS 5.3b ... disconnect the relay wiring
sulphation has occurred. A new battery will models... connector to access the main fuse (arrowed)

gueet ="

5.3c Starter relay (arrowed) - Dylan and @ models 5.3d Starter relay (arrowed) - Pantheon and S-wing models
10°6 Electrical system

5.4a Fusebox (arrowed) - SH and PS 5.4b .. 5.4c Fusebox (arrowed) — Dylan and @
models... models...

5.4d ...unclip the lid to access the fuses 5.4e Fusebox (arrowed) - Pantheon and 5.5 A blown fuse can be identified by a
S-wing models break in its element

models and PS models open the glove box, on a new one so that a spare of each rating is Main relay
later SH models remove the upper front panel carried on the bike at all times.
(see Chapter 9), and on Dylan, @, Pantheon 8 The main relay controls power from the
Warning: Never put in a fuse
and S-wing models remove the maintenance A of a higher rating or bridge ignition switch to the fuses (except the main
access panel to the battery (see Chapter 9) the terminals with any other fuse), thereby controlling all lighting, signalling
(see illustrations). On S-wing models with substitute, however temporary it and instrumentation functions. When the
ABS there are two fuseboxes. Unclip the may be. Serious damage may be done to ignition is switched ON the relay should click.
fusebox lid to expose the fuses — the location, the circuit, or a fire may start. If the relay is suspected of being faulty, the
identity and rating of each fuse is marked on a 6 If the new fuse blows immediately check the easiest way to tell is to substitute it with another
s ticker on the lid. wiring circuit very carefully for evidence of a one, if available. To access the relay, on 2001
5 The fuses can be removed and checked short-circuit. Look for bare wires and chafed, to 2004 SH models open the glove box; on
visually. If you can’t pull the fuse out with melted or burned insulation. 2005 to 2008 SH models and PS models open
your fingertips, use a pair of suitable pliers. 7 Occasionally a fuse will blow or cause an the glove box then displace its inner panel (see
A blown fuse is easily identified by a break in open-circuit for no obvious reason. Corrosion illustration); on later SH, Dylan and @ models
the element (see illustration). Each fuse is of the fuse ends and fusebox terminals may remove the upper front panel (see Chapter 9);
clearly marked with its rating and must only occur and cause poor fuse contact. If this on Pantheon and S-wing models remove the
be replaced by a fuse of the correct rating. A happens, remove the corrosion with a wire storage compartment (see Chapter 9). Displace
spare fuse of each rating is housed in the box. brush or emery paper, then spray the fuse end the relay from its mount and disconnect the
If a spare fuse is used, always replace it with and terminals with electrical contact cleaner. wiring connector (see illustrations).

=
5.8a On SH and PS models undo the 5.8b Main relay (arrowed) - Dylan models 5.8c Main re lay (arrowed) - @ models
screws (arrowed) and remove the panel
 Electrical system 10¢7

lever pulled in, then with the rear brake lever

pulled in. If voltage is present with one brake
on but not the other, then the switch or its
wiring is faulty. If voltage is present in both
cases, check for continuity to earth (ground)
in the green wire from the wiring connector.
If no voltage is indicated, check the wiring
and connectors between the brake light and
the brake switches, the fuse, and the ignition
switch, then check the switches themselves.
Refer to Section 14 for the switch testing
procedures, to electrical system fault finding
: ! Ll , (Section 2) and to the wiring diagrams at the
5.8d Main relay (arrowed) — Pantheon and 6.1 Checking a bulb filament for continuity end of this Chapter.
S-wing models
Licence plate light (SH,
9 If a substitute is not available, remove that a bulb has blown (see illustration). When Pantheon and S-wing models)
the suspect one and test it as follows: set a testing for continuity, remember that on single 6 If the licence plate light bulb fails to work,
multimeter to the ohms x 1 scale and connect terminal bulbs it is the metal body of the bulb first check the bulb (Section 9), then the fuse
it across the relay’s red and red/yellow wire that is the earth (ground). (Section 5). If they are good disconnect the
terminals. There should be no continuity licence plate light wiring connector and check
(infinite resistance). Using a fully-charged 12 Headlight for battery voltage at the brown or black/
volt battery and two insulated jumper wires, 2 All models have either one or two twin brown wire terminal (according to model) on
connect the positive (+) terminal of the battery filament bulbs. If one headlight beam fails to the loom side of the wiring connector with the
to the red/black wire terminal on the relay, work, first check the bulb (See Section 7). If ignition switch ON. If voltage is present, check
and the negative (-) terminal to the green both headlight beams fail to work, first check for continuity to earth (ground) in the green
wire terminal. At this point the relay should the fuse (see Section 5), and then the bulb(s) wire from the wiring connector. If no voltage
be heard to click and the meter read 0 ohms (see Section 7). If they are good, the problem is indicated, check the wiring and connectors
(continuity). If this is the case the relay is good. lies inthe wiring or connectors, the light switch in the license plate light circuit, referring to the
If the relay does not click when battery voltage (where fitted), or the dimmer switch. Refer to wiring diagrams at the end of this Chapter.
is applied and indicates no continuity (infinite Section 20 for the switch testing procedures,
Turn signals
resistance) across its terminals, it is faulty and and also to electrical system fault finding
must be replaced with a new one. (Section 2) and the wiring diagrams at the end 7 See Section 11.
10 If the relay is good, check for battery of this Chapter.

SN
voltage at the red wire terminal in the 3 If the bulb is good, check for battery voltage 7 Headlight and sidelight bulbs 2.
connector with the ignition OFF, and at the red/ at the blue or white wire terminal (according to
&
black wire terminal with the ignition ON. Also
check for continuity to earth in the green wire,
beam) on the headlight wiring connector with
the ignition ON. If voltage is present, check Va
and for continuity to the fusebox in the red/ for continuity to earth (ground) in the green Note: The headlight bulbs are of the quartz-
yellow wire, referring to the wiring diagrams at wire from the wiring connector. If no voltage is halogen type. Do not touch the bulb glass as
the end of the Chapter. Also make sure that indicated, check the wiring and connectors in skin acids will shorten the bulb’s service life. If
all the terminals in the connectors are clean the circuit, referring to electrical system fault the bulb is accidentally touched, it should be
and secure. Repair or renew the wiring or finding (Section 2) and the wiring diagrams at wiped carefully when cold with a rag soaked in
connectors as necessary. the end of this Chapter. methylated spirit and dried before fitting.
Tail light/sidelight(s) Warning: Allow the bulb time to
6 Lighting system check A cool before removing it if the
4 If the tail light fails to work, first check the headlight has just been on.
bulb (Section 9 or 7), then the fuse (Section
5). If they are good, disconnect the tail light Headlight
.
or sidelight wiring connector, and check for 1 On SH and PS models remove the front
41 The battery provides power for operation of battery voltage at the brown or black/brown handlebar cover (see Chapter 9). Remove
the lights. If a light fails first check the bulb wire terminal (according to model) on the loom the rubber dust cover (see illustration).
(see relevant Section), and the bulb terminals side of the connector with the ignition switch
in the holder. If none of the lights work, always ON. If voltage is present, check for continuity
check battery voltage before proceeding. to earth (ground) in the green wire from the
Low battery voltage indicates either a faulty wiring connector. If no voltage is indicated,
battery or a defective charging system. Refer check the wiring and connectors in the circuit,
to Section 3 for battery checks and Section referring to electrical system fault finding
27 for charging system tests. Also, check (Section 2) and the wiring diagrams at the end
the fuses and main relay (section 5) — if there of this Chapter.
is more than one problem at the same time,
Brake light
it is likely to be a fault relating to a multi-
function component, such as one of the fuses 5 If the brake light fails to work, first check
governing more than one circuit, or the main the bulb (Section 9), then the fuse (Section 5).
relay or the ignition switch. When checking for lf they are good disconnect the tail light wiring
a blown filament in a bulb, it is advisable to connector, and check for battery voltage at
7.1a Remove the dust cover...
back up a visual check with a continuity test the green/yellow wire terminal on the loom
of the filament as it is not always apparent side of the connector, first with the front brake
 10°¢8 Electrical system

= ~

7.1b ... disconnect the wiring 7.1c . . . release the retainer (shown) or 7.1d ...and remove the bulb
connector... clip...
Disconnect the wiring connector (see illustration). Withdraw the bulb, noting how it @ models unscrew the headlight mounting
illustration). Either turn the bulb retainer locates (see illustration). bolts and displace the headlight (see
anti-clockwise, or release the bulb retaining 2 On Dylan, @, and Pantheon models remove illustration). Remove the rubber dust cover
clip, noting how it fits, according to type (see the upper front panel (see Chapter 9). On (see illustrations). Disconnect the wiring
connector. Either turn the bulb retainer anti-
clockwise, or release the bulb retaining clip,
noting how it fits, according to type (see
illustration 7.1c). Withdraw the bulb, noting
how it locates (see illustration 7.1d).
3 On S-wing models undo the three screws
securing the trim panel to the inner front
panel (see illustration). Carefully ease the
five snap-fit clips free using a taped-up
screwdriver, inserting it at the top-right-hand
corner and working it down the side and along
the bottom to free the three clips there, then
Mr Starting again top-right and working along the
7.2a On @ models unscrew the bolt 7.2b Headlight bulb cover (A), sidelight
top to release the two clips (see illustration).
(arrowed) on each side and tilt the bulb (B) - Dylan models
headlight forwards If after removing the panel you find that
access to the bulbs via the apertures is too

ms ee ; a
ik =
7.2¢ Headlight bulb covers (A), sidelight 7.2d Remove the cover to access the
bulb (B) - Pantheon models
wiring connector(s) and bulb

7.3b ... then release the snap-fit clips as

7.3¢ ...then access the headlight (A),
described and remove the panel. . . 7.3d Remove the dust cover wand
sidelight (B) and turn signal (C) bulbs
 Electrical system 10¢9

7.3e ... disconnect the wiring

connector...
restricted for you, remove the upper front
panels (see Chapter 9). Remove the rubber
dust cover (see illustrations). Disconnect the
wiring connector (see illustration). Release
the bulb retaining clip, noting how it fits (see
illustration). Withdraw the bulb, noting how it
locates (see illustration).
4 Fit the new bulb in reverse order.

HAYNES Always use a paper towel

or dry cloth when handling
new bulbs to prevent injury if
the bulb should break and to |
7.6b ...and pull the bulb out
increase bulb life.

5 Check the operation of the headlight.

Sidelight
6 On 2001 to 2004 SH and all PS models
remove the front handlebar cover (see Chapter
9). Carefully pull the bulb holder out of the
headlight, then pull the bulb out of the holder
(see illustrations).
7 On 2005-on SH models remove the upper
front panel (see Chapter 9). Carefully pull the
bulb holder out of the turn signal/sidelight
unit, then pull the bulb out of the holder (see
illustrations). 7.7a Withdraw the bulb holder... 7.7b ...and pull the bulb out
8 On Dylan and Pantheon models remove the
upper front panel (see Chapter 9). Carefully 10 On S-wing models undo the three screws top to release the two clips (see illustration
pull the bulb holder out of the headlight, then securing the trim panel to the inner front 7.3b). Carefully pull the bulb holder out of the
pull the bulb out of the holder (see illustration panel (see illustration 7.3a). Carefully ease headlight, then pull the bulb out of the holder
7.2b or c). the five snap-fit clips free using a taped-up (see illustration 7.3c).
9 On @ models access the sidelight from the screwdriver, inserting it at the top-right-hand 11 Fit the new bulb in reverse order.
underside of the headlight. Carefully pull the corner and working it down the side and along 12 Check the operation of the sidelight.
bulb holder out of the headlight, then pull the the bottom to free the three clips there, then
pulb out of the holder. 8 Headlight
Mill
Removal
1 On SH and PS models remove the front
handlebar cover (see Chapter 9). Undo the
screws securing the headlight and lift it out
(see illustration).
2 On Dylan models remove the lower front
panel (see Chapter 9). Undo the screws
securing the headlight and lift it out (see
illustration).
8.1 Headlight screws (arrowed) - 8.2 Headlight screws (arrowed) - 3 On @ models remove the upper front panel
SH models Dylan models (see Chapter 9). Disconnect the headlight
10°10 Electrical system

fas re 4

8.4 Headlight screws (arrowed) - 8.5a Disconnect the wiring connector 8.5b Undo the screws (arrowed) on each
Pantheon models side
wiring connector. Unscrew the headlight illustration). centre bolt in the front and lift the headlight
mounting bolts and remove the headlight (see 5 On S-wing models remove the upper front assembly out, noting how the pegs locate in
illustration 7.2a). panels and the inner front panel (see Chapter the grommets (see illustrations).
4 On Pantheon models remove the upper 9). Disconnect the headlight wiring connector 6 If required remove the headlight bulb(s) and
front panel (see Chapter 9). Undo the screws (see illustration). Undo the three screws along the sidelight bulbholder(s) (see Section 7), and
securing the headlight and lift it out (see each rear side (see illustration). Unscrew the free the wiring from any ties, noting its routing.
On S-wing models separate the headlight
units if required (see illustration).

Installation
7 Installation is the reverse of removal.
Make sure all the wiring is correctly routed,
connected and secured. Check the operation
of the headlight(s) and sidelight(s). Check the
headlight aim.

Headlight aim
Note: An improperly adjusted headlight
may cause problems for oncoming traffic or
8.5d ... and remove the headlight provide poor, unsafe illumination of the road
assembly... ahead. Before adjusting the headlight aim, be
sure to consult with local traffic laws.
8 The headlight beams can adjusted vertically.
Before making any adjustment, check that the
tyre pressures are correct and the suspension
is adjusted as required. Make any adjustments
to the headlight aim with the machine on level
ground, with the fuel tank half full and with
an assistant sitting on the seat. If the bike is
usually ridden with a passenger on the back,
have a second assistant to do this.
9 On SH and PS models adjustment is made
by turning the adjuster screw on the underside
of the headlight (see illustrations).
8.5e ... noting how it locates 8.6 Unscrew the bolts and separate each 10 On Dylan and @ models open the glove
compartment — adjustment is made by turning
unit if required
the adjuster screw inside (see illustration).

me

8.9a Headlight adjuster (arrowed) - 8.9b Headlight adjuster (arrowed) -

SH models 8.10 Headlight adjuster (arrowed) -
PS models
@ models
 Electrical system 10¢11

8.11 Release the trim clip (A) and remove 9.1a Undo the screws (arrowed — PS
the guard to access the adjuster (B) models)...

11 On Pantheon models open the glove

compartment, then release the trim clip and
remove the guard — adjustment is made by turning
the adjuster screw inside (see illustration).
12 On S-wing models adjustment of each
headlight unit is made by turning the adjuster
knob on the back of each unit, which are
accessed by reaching up from below the
headlight (see illustration).

9 Brake/tail light bulb and

licence plate bulb S sf wit | iene
ad XS
9.1b ...and remove the lens 9.1c Release and remove the bulb

Note: /t is a good idea to use a paper towel or the screws and remove the lens (see illus- the tail light bulb access panel screws and
dry cloth when handling the new bulb to prevent trations). Carefully push the bulb in and displace the panel (see illustration) — if
injury if it breaks, and to increase bulb life. turn it anti-clockwise to release it (see required disconnect the power socket and
illustration). storage compartment light wiring connectors
Brake/tail light bulb(s) 2 On Pantheon and S-wing models unlock (see illustration). Turn the bulbholder anti-
1 On SH, Dylan, @ and PS models undo and raise the seat (see illustration). Undo clockwise to release it. Carefully push the bulb

9.2b Undo the screws (arrowed) and 9.2c ... and disconnect the wiring
displace the panel... connectors if required

9.2d Reach inside to access the bulb 9.2e ... for the brake and tail light (A) and 9.2f Release the bulb holder...
holders... the turn signal (B) - S-wing models
10e12 Electrical system

in and turn it anti-clockwise to release it (see

illustrations).
3 Fit the new bulb in reverse order. On SH,
Dylan, @ and PS models do not over-tighten
the screws as it is easy to strip the threads or
crack the lens.

Licence plate light bulb (SH,

Pantheon and S-wing models)
4 Undo the screw and remove the light
housing (see illustration).
5 Carefully pull the bulbholder out, then pull
bm sams = sees. the bulb out of its socket (see illustrations).
9.2g ... then release the bulb from it 9.4 Undo the screw (arrowed) and detach _ 6 Fit the new bulb in reverse order.
the housing

10 Tail light.

HELE,
~

1 Remove the body cover (see Chapter 9).

2 On @ models disconnect the tail light wiring
connector, then unscrew the bolt on each side
and remove the tail light (see illustrations).
3 On all other models undo the screws
securing the tail light unit(s) and remove them
from the body cover (see illustrations).
EE a= 4 Installation is the reverse of removal. Check
9.5b ... then dessa bulb out of the the operation of the tail and brake lights.
older

11 Turn signal circuit check SS

Shi
1 Most turn signal problems are the result of
a burned out bulb or corroded socket. This is
especially true when the turn signals function
on one side (although possibly too quickly),
but fail to work on the other side. If this is the
case, first check the bulbs, the sockets and the
ae 2 a wiring connectors. If all the turn signals fail to
e a
10.2a Disconnect the relevant wiring reed ; work, first check the fuse (see Secti
10.2b ... then unscrew the bolt (arrowed) then the relay (see nae If neve Bel
Eoanesponinthe boot (arrowed): on each side the problem lies in the wiring or connectors, or

10.3a Tail light unit screws (arrowed) - SH models

10.3b Tail light unit screws (arrowed) - Dylan models
 Electrical system 10°13

10.3c Tail light unit screws (arrowed) - PS models 10.3d Tail light unit screws (arrowed) - S-wing models (Pantheon
similar)

the switch. Refer to Section 20 for the switch and disconnect the wiring connector (see 5 lf the turn signals do not come on, check
testing procedures, and also to the wiring illustrations). the grey wire for continuity to the left-hand
diagrams at the end of this Chapter. 3 Check for battery voltage at the black/brown switch housing, and the green wire for
2 To access the relay, on 2001 to 2004 SH wire terminal on the loom side of the connector continuity to earth. Repair or replace the
models open the glove box; on 2005 to 2008 with the ignition ON. If no voltage is present, wiring or connectors as required.
SH models and PS models open the glove box check the wiring from the relay to the ignition 6 If allis good so far, or if the turn signals work
then displace its inner panel (see illustration (main) switch (via the fuse) for continuity. on one side but not the other, check the wiring
5.8a); on later SH, Dylan and @ models 4 lf voltage was present, short between between the left-hand switch housing and the
remove the upper front panel (See Chapter 9); the black/brown and grey wire terminals turn signals themselves. Repair or renew the
wiring or connectors as necessary.
on Pantheon models remove the inner front on the connector using a jumper wire. Turn
handlebar cover (See Chapter 9); on S-wing the ignition ON and operate the turn signal
models remove the upper front panels (see switch. If the turn signals come on, the relay is
Chapter 9). Displace the relay from its mount confirmed faulty. 12 Turn signal bulbs

Kl
Note: /t is a good idea to use a paper towel
or dry cloth when handling the new bulb to
prevent injury if the bulb should break and to
increase bulb life.

Front
1 On 2001 to 2004 SH and all Dylan, @ and
PS models undo the screw securing the lens
and detach the lens from the housing, noting
—
how it fits (see illustration). Push the bulb
11.2a Turn signal relay (arrowed) - 11.2b Turn signal relay (arrowed) - into the holder and twist it anti-clockwise to
Dylan models @ models remove it (see illustration).

11.2c Turn signal relay (arrowed) - 12.1a Undo the screw and remove the lens 12.1b Release the bulb and replace it with
Pantheon and S-wing models a new one
10°14 Electrical system

12.2b ... then release the bulb from it 12.3 Turn signal bulb holder (arrowed)

inserting it at the top-right-hand corner and

working it down the side and along the bottom
to free the three clips there, then starting again
top-right and working along the top to release
the two clips (See illustration 7.3b). Turn the
bulbholder anti-clockwise to release it. Push the
bulb into the holder and twist it anti-clockwise
to remove it (see illustration 7.3c).
5 Fit the new bulb in reverse order. On 2001
to 2004 SH and all Dylan, @ and PS models
do not over-tighten the screw as it is easy to
strip the threads or crack the lens.
Si at

12.6a Undo the screw and remove the lens

Rear
12.6b Release the bulb and replace it with
anew one 6 On SH, Dylan, @ and PS models undo the
screw and remove the lens (see illustration).
2 On 2005-on SH models remove the upper anti-clockwise to release it (see illustration). Carefully push the bulb in and turn it anti-
front panel (see Chapter 9). Turn the bulbholder Push the bulb into the holder and twist it anti- clockwise to release it (see illustration).
anti-clockwise to release it (see illustration). clockwise to remove it. 7 On Pantheon and S-wing models unlock
Carefully push the bulb in and turn it anti- 4 On S-wing models undo the three screws and raise the seat (see illustration 9.2a).
clockwise to release it (see illustration). securing the trim panel to the inner front panel Undo the tail light bulb access panel screws
3 On Pantheon models remove the upper front (see illustration 7.3a). Carefully ease the five and displace the panel (see illustration 9.2b)
panel (see Chapter 9). Turn the bulbholder snap-fit clips free using a taped-up screwdriver, — if required disconnect the power socket and
storage compartment light wiring connectors
s\ (see illustration 9.2c). Turn the bulbholder
anti-clockwise to release it (see illustrations
9.2d and e). Carefully push the bulb in and
turn it anti-clockwise to release it.
8 Fit the new bulb in reverse order. On SH,
Dylan, @ and PS models do not over-tighten
the screw as it is easy to strip the threads or
crack the lens.

13 Turn signal assemblies SS

13.3a Turn signal screws (arrowed) -

S
~
2005-on SH models
Front turn signals
1 On 2001 to 2004 SH and @ models remove
the upper front panel (see Chapter 9). On
later SH models remove the lower front panel
(see Chapter 9). On Dylan and PS models
remove the inner front panel (see Chapter 9).
On Pantheon models remove the upper front
panel, and if required for improved access the
inner front panel (see Chapter 9). On S-wing
models the front turn signals are part of the
headlight assembly (see Section 8).
2 Where necessary (i.e. the turn signal is not
mounted in a panel that has been remove
d)
13.3¢ Turn signal screws (arrowed) - disconnect the turn signal wiring connector.
13.3d Turn signal screws (arrowed) -
@ models 3 Undo the turn signal screws and remove
PS models it
from the panel (see illustrations).
 Electrical system 10°15

‘a
14.2a Front brake switch wiring 14.2b Rear brake switch connectors (A 14.2c Rear brake switch wiring
connectors (A) and mounting screw (B) and retaining clip (B) - drum brake models connectors (A), inhibitor switch connectors
(B)...

4 Installation is the reverse of removal. Check With the brake lever at rest, there should be 7 Installation is the reverse of removal.
the operation of the turn signals. no continuity. With the brake lever applied, Make sure the switch is correctly located
there should be continuity. If the switch does before tightening the screw. The switch isn’t
not behave as described, replace it with a new adjustable.
Rear turn signals
one.
5 The turn signals are part of the tail light unit 4 lf the switches are good, check for voltage
(see Section 10). at the black wire terminal on the loom side 15 Instrument cluster
with the ignition switch ON — there should

Mitt
be battery voltage. If there’s no voltage
14 Brake light switches present, check the wiring between the
connector and the ignition switch via the

Whi fusebox (see the wiring diagrams at the end

of this Chapter). If voltage is present, check
Removal
1 On 2001 to 2004 SH models remove the
the green/yellow (rear) wire for continuity to handlebar covers (see Chapter 9). Disconnect
Circuit check the brake light wiring connector, referring the wiring connectors for the handlebar
1 Before checking the switches, and if not to the relevant wiring diagram. Repair switches in the rear cover, noting where they
already done, check the brake light circuit or replace the wiring or connectors as fit. Note: When disconnecting the wiring, it
(see Section 6). necessary. is advisable to mark or tag the connectors as
2 The switch is mounted on the underside a reminder of where they connect. Undo the
of the brake master cylinder or drum brake instrument cluster screws and lift it out of the
Switch replacement
equalizer mechanism — remove the handlebar rear cover.
cover(s) as required according to model for 5 The switch is mounted on the underside 2 On 2005-on SH models remove the
access (see Chapter 9). Disconnect the switch of the brake master cylinder or drum brake handlebar covers (see Chapter 9). Disconnect
wiring connectors (see illustrations) —- on equalizer mechanism - remove the front the brake light switch wiring connectors (see
Pantheon and S-wing models and 2009-on cover(s) as required according to model for illustrations 14.2a and b). Disconnect the
SH models with a rear disc brake, where access (see Chapter 9). Disconnect the switch instrument cluster/handlebar switch loom
the rear brake light switch is integral with wiring connectors (see illustrations 14.2a, b wiring connectors. Remove the in-fill pane!
the starter inhibitor switch, the brake light and c) - on Pantheon and S-wing models and at the front of the inner front panel by sliding
switch connectors are the ones on the side 2009-on SH models with rear disc brake also it forwards (see illustration). Release the
of the switch, not at the back (see illus- disconnect the starter inhibitor switch wiring. instrument cluster/handlebar switch loom
trations). 6 Either undo the screw(s) securing the switch from any ties. Disconnect the speedometer
3 Using a continuity tester, connect the and remove it, or press in the retaining clip and cable (see illustration).
probes to the terminals of the switch, or to pull the switch out of its housing, according to 3 On Dylan models remove the handlebar
the terminals in the switch side connectors. model (see illustrations 14.2a, b, c and d). covers (see Chapter 9). Undo the instrument

14.2d ...and switch mounting screws 15.2a Release and remove the panel 15.2b Unscrew the ring (arrowed) and
detach the cable
(arrowed) - Pantheon and S-wing models
 10°16 Electrical system

15.3 Instrument cluster screws (arrowed) 15.4a Unscrew the ring (arrowed) and 15.4b Unscrew the ring (arrowed) and
detach the cable - @ models detach the cable - PS models

cluster screws and lift it out of the rear cover of the relevant (where there is more than one instrument board is faulty. If there is no voltage
(see illustration). connector) wiring connector with the ignition check the pink and yellow/red wires between
4 On @ and PS models remove the handlebar ON. There should be battery voltage. If there the connector and the speed sensor connector
covers (see Chapter 9). Disconnect the is no voltage, refer to the wiring diagrams and for continuity - unscrew the sensor cover
brake light switch wiring connectors (see check the wire between the connector and bolts on the back of the transmission casing
illustrations 14.2a and b). Disconnect the the fuse for loose or broken connections or to access the connector (see illustration). If
instrument cluster/handlebar switch loom a damaged wire. Where the connector does that is good check there is 5 volts present at
wiring connectors. Release the instrument not go directly into the back of the instrument the yellow/red wire terminal in the loom side
cluster/handlebar switch loom from any ties. cluster next check for continuity between the of the sensor wiring connector. If there isn’t,
Disconnect the speedometer cable (see black/brown wire terminal in the instrument but the wire showed continuity, the instrument
illustrations). Lift the instrument cluster out side of the wiring connector and each relevant board is faulty. If there is, check for continuity
along with the sub-loom, noting its routing as terminal on the back of the instrument cluster. to earth in the green/black wire. If all is good,
you draw it out. the sensor could be faulty — unscrew the bolt
4 Check for continuity to earth in the green
5 On Pantheon and S-wing models remove and remove the sensor, and make sure the
and green/black wires in the loom side of the
the instrument cover (see Chapter 9). Undo relevant connector. head is clean and check for damage. If all is
the instrument cluster screws and lift it out of good unscrew the bolt and replace the senor
the cover (see illustration). Instrument checks with a new one.
Installation 5 OnSH, @andPS models, if the speedometer 8 On S-wing models, if the tachometer does
does not work, first check the cable (section not work, first check that when the ignition
6 Installation is the reverse of removal. Make
18), then remove the front wheel and check is switched on the needle moves around
sure all wiring is correctly routed and all
the drive gear and plate (see Chapter 8). the meter and back along with the other
connectors are secure.
6 On Dylan models, if the speedometer does instrument needles. If none do, check the
not work, first check the speed sensor wire power circuit. If all except the tacho needle
16 Instruments check and connectors between the front wheel and move replace the instrument board with a
the instruments, then remove the front wheel new one. If the tacho needle moves, but does
Wil and check the sensor and rotor (see Chap-
ter 8).
not register engine speed when the engine is
running, it must be tested as follows using the
1 Where necessary refer to Section 15 7 On Pantheon and S-wing models, if the specified equipment and with the connector
for access to the instrument cluster wiring speedometer does not work, first check still connected, or by a Honda dealer. Honda
connector for your model. the voltage between the pink wire (+) in specify their own Imrie diagnostic tester
the instrument wiring connector, with it still (model 625), or the peak voltage adapter (Pt.
Power circuit check connected, and ground, with the ignition ON, No. 07HGJ-0020100) with an aftermarket
2 If none of the instruments or displays are the scooter on the centrestand and turning digital multimeter having an impedance of 10
working, first check the fuse (see Section 5). the rear wheel by hand - a pulsing voltage of M-ohm/DCV minimum, for a complete test.
3 Next check for battery voltage at the 0 to 5 volts should be present. If that is found, If this equipment is available, connect the
black/brown wire terminal in the loom side the sensor and the wiring are good, but the positive (+) lead of the voltmeter and peak
voltage adapter arrangement to the blue/yellow
wire terminal in the wiring connector, and the
negative (-) lead to earth. Start the engine and
note the peak voltage reading on the meter —
there should be a minimum of 10.5 volts. If the
peak voltage reading is normal the instrument
board is faulty. If there is a reading but it is
below 10.5 volts the ECU could be faulty. If
there is no reading check the wire between the
connector and the ECU for continuity. If that is
good the ECU could be faulty. For information
on the ECU see Chapter 6.
9 The temperature gauge and sensor are
15.5 Instrument cluster screws (arrowed) - 16.7 Speed sensor cover bolts (A) and covered in Chapter 4.
S-wing models 10 The fuel gauge and level sensor are
sensor mounting bolt (B)
covered in Chapter 5A.
 Electrical system 10°17

11 Referring to Electrical system fault finding

in Section 2 and to the wiring diagram at the
end of this Chapter for your model, check the
jLbig
Ae yu
wiring and connectors between the relevant
instrument or bulb and its source for continuity
and security.

Instrument replacement
12 Remove the instrument cluster (Section
15). Individual instruments are not available,
but the instrument board is available
separately from the front cover and housing.
13 Where applicable (according to model) 17.2b Carefully release and pull out the
undo the individual wiring connector screws bulb holder...
and detach the wires, tagging them if
necessary (their colour code may or may not
be marked next to their terminal) according to
their location. Also pull each bulbholder out.
Release any wiring guides.
14 Undo the front cover and housing screws
and separate them.
15 Carefully lift the instrument board out.
16 Installation is the reverse of removal.

47 Instrument and warning

light bulbs N
~
hi 17.2c ...then remove the bulb 17.3 Instrument light caps (arrowed)

1 On SH, @ and PS models remove the front

handlebar cover (see Chapter 9). Carefully pull signal, and all wiring and connectors between 3 Unscrew the knurled ring and detach
the relevant bulb holder out of the back of the the source and the instrument cluster are the cable from the instrument cluster (see
instrument cluster, then pull the bulb out of good, a new instrument board may have to be illustration 15.2b, 15.4a or 15.4b).
the holder and replace it with a new one (see fitted — individual LEDs are not available. 4 Withdraw the cable, noting its routing.
illustration 15.2b, 15.4a or 15.4b). 5 Installation is the reverse of removal. Make
2 On Dylan models remove the front handlebar sure the O-ring on the end of the speedometer

<
cover (see Chapter 9). Remove the relevant 18 Speedometer cable or cable is fitted and smear it with grease (see
bulb holder rubber cap (see illustration). speed sensor illustration). Push the cable into the drive
housing, making sure the slot in the cable
Twist the bulbholder anti-clockwise to release
it, then pull the bulb out of the holder and
w
» locates correctly over the drive tab.
replace it with a new one (see illustrations).
Speed sensor - Dylan models
3 On Pantheon models remove the inner front Speedometer cable - SH, @ and
handlebar cover. Remove the relevant bulb 6 Remove the upper front panel, and if
PS models required for better access the inner front panel
holder rubber cap (see illustration). Twist the
bulbholder anti-clockwise to release it, then 1 Remove the front handlebar cover (see (see Chapter 9).
pull the bulb out of the holder and replace it Chapter 9). 7 Trace the wiring from the sensor in the drive
with a new one. 2 Undo the screw securing the speedometer housing on the right-hand side of the front
4 On S-wing models all instrument and cable in the drive housing on the right-hand wheel and disconnect it at the connector.
warning bulbs are LEDs. If one fails, and the side of the front wheel and draw the cable out Release the wiring from any ties and feed it
cause is not due to the source that supplies its (see illustrations). down to the sensor, noting its routing.

Ala
18.2a Undo the screw (arrowed) ... 18.2b ...and detach the cable 18.5 Make sure the O-ring (arrowed) is
fitted
 10°18 Electrical system

models, repeat the check between the red overlooked. If breakage does occur, the entire
and red/blue wire terminals. switch and related wiring harness will have
3 If the switch fails the test, replace it with to be replaced with a new one, as individual
a new one. If it is good, check for battery parts are not available.
voltage at the red wire terminal on the loom 2 The switches can be checked for continuity
side of the connector. If there is none, check using an ohmmeter or a continuity test light.
for continuity in the wire to the starter relay Always disconnect the battery negative (-)
(Section 24), and check the main fuse (Section cable, which will prevent the possibility of a
5). If there is voltage, check the red/black wire short circuit, before making the checks.
between the connector and the fusebox and 3 On all except S-wing models remove the
main relay for continuity, then check the relay handlebar covers (see Chapter 9). Check
itself (Section 5). : for continuity between the terminals of the
switch with the switch in the various positions
18.8 Undo the screw (arrowed) and detach Removal and installation
(i.e. switch off —- no continuity, switch on —
the sensor 4 Remove the upper front panel (see Chap- continuity) (see illustration 20.7) — see the
ter 9). wiring diagrams at the end of this Chapter.
8 Undo the screw securing the sensor and 5 On SH and PS models displace the radiator, Continuity should exist between the terminals
draw it out (see illustration). or if required for greater clearance remove it connected by a solid line on the diagram when
9 Installation is the reverse of removal. Make (see Chapter 4). Release the wiring from the
the switch is in the indicated position.
sure the O-ring on the end of the speedometer air guide plate and remove the plate.
4 On S-wing models undo the three screws
cable is fitted and smear it with grease. Push 6 On all except @ models release the ignition
securing the trim panel on the inner front
the cable into the drive housing, making sure switch cover by turning it anti-clockwise and
panel (see illustration 7.3a). Carefully ease
the inner cable locates in the shaft, setting the draw it off the switch, noting how it locates
the five snap-fit clips free using a taped-up
retaining tab in the cut-out. (see illustration) — it may need to be eased
screwdriver, inserting it at the top-right-hand
off the tabs on the switch using a screwdriver.
Speed sensor - Pantheon and 7 As required according to model detach the
corner and working it down the side and along
S-wing models seat lock cable, and on Pantheon and S-wing
the bottom to free the three clips there, then
10 Unscrew the bolts and remove the sensor starting again top-right and working along the
models the fuel filler cover lock cable (see
cover (see illustration 16.7). illustration 19.9a). top to release the two clips (see illustration
11 Disconnect the wiring connector. 7.3b). Disconnect the relevant switch wiring
8 Disconnect the ignition switch connector.
12 Unscrew the bolt and remove the sensor. Feed the wiring back to the switch, freeing it connector(s) (see illustration 7.3c). Check for
13 Installation is the reverse of removal. Use from any clips and ties and noting its routing. continuity between the terminals of the switch
a new O-ring and smear it with oil. 9 Unscrew the switch bolts and remove the connector with the switch in the various
switch (see illustrations) — where shear-head positions (i.e. switch off — no continuity, switch
19 Ignition switch or one way bolts are used carefully drift them on — continuity) — see the wiring diagrams at
round until loose using a suitable chisel or the end of this Chapter. Continuity should
punch, and use new bolts on installation. exist between the terminals connected by a
10 Installation is the reverse of removal. Make solid line on the diagram when the switch is in
sure the wiring connector is correctly routed the indicated position.
Warning: To prevent the risk of and securely connected. 5 If the continuity check indicates a problem
short circuits, disconnect the exists, on S-wing models displace the switch
battery negative (-) lead before housing (see below). On all models spray
making any ignition switch checks.
20 Handlebar switches
the switch contacts with electrical contact
Check cleaner (there is no need to remove the
1 Remove the upper front panel (see Chapter Mil switch completely). If they are accessible,
the contacts can be scraped clean with a
9). Disconnect the ignition switch wiring knife or polished with crocus cloth. If switch
connector. Check
components are damaged or broken, it will be
2 Using an ohmmeter or a continuity tester, 1 Generally speaking, the switches are obvious.
check there is continuity between the red and reliable and trouble-free. Most troubles, when
red/black wire terminals in the switch side of they do occur, are caused by dirty or corroded Removal
the connector with the ignition switch ON, and contacts, but wear and breakage of internal 6 Remove the handlebar covers (see Chap=
there is no continuity with it OFF. On Pantheon parts is a possibility that should not be ter 9).
=

19.6 Release and remove the cover 19.9a Seat lock cable (A) and ignition 19.9b Ignition switch shear-head bolts
switch shear-head bolts (B) - Dylan models
(arrowed) - @ models
 Electrical system 10°19

20.7 Handlebar switches are retained in 20.8 Left-hand switch housing screws 21.2 Sidestand switch (arrowed)
the cover by tabs (arrowed)

7 On all except S-wing models release the switch prevents the engine starting if the making sure the pin locates in the hole, and
switch tabs and withdraw it from the cover sidestand is down, and will stop the engine if the lug on the stand bracket locates into the
(see illustration). the stand is extended while running. cut-out in the switch body. Secure the switch
8 On S-wing models undo the three screws with the bolt (see illustration 21.2).
securing the trim panel on the inner front Check
9 Feed the wiring back to its connector,
panel (see illustration 7.3a). Carefully ease 2 The sidestand switch is mounted on the making sure it is correctly routed and secured
the five snap-fit clips free using a taped-up stand pivot (see illustration). On Dylan and @ by any clips and ties.
screwdriver, inserting it at the top-right-hand models remove the belly panel (See Chapter 9). 10 Reconnect the wiring connector and
corner and working it down the side and along On Pantheon models remove the maintenance check the operation of the sidestand switch.
the bottom to free the three clips there, then panel for access to the right-hand side of the 11 Install the body panels (see Chapter 9).
starting again top-right and working along the engine (see Chapter 9). On S-wing models
top to release the two clips (see illustration remove the centre cover (see Chapter 9).

A
22 Starter inhibitor switch ya
7.3b). Disconnect the relevant switch wiring Disconnect the green 2-pin wiring connector.
connector(s) (see illustration 7.3c). Feed
the wiring back to the switch, freeing it from
3 Check the operation of the switch using an
ohmmeter or continuity test light. Connect the
meter between the terminals on the switch
x
any clips and ties and noting its routing. If
removing the right-hand switch disconnect side of the connector. With the sidestand up 1 The switch prevents the engine from
the wires from the brake light switch (see there should be continuity (zero resistance) starting unless the rear brake lever is pulled in.
illustration 14.2a). If removing the left-hand between the terminals, and with the stand On models with a rear disc brake the switch
switch disconnect the wires from the brake down there should be no continuity (infinite is integral with the rear brake light switch, but
light/inhibitor switch (see illustration 14.2c). resistance). has its own connectors. On all other models
To remove the right-hand switch, refer to 4 Check for voltage at the green/white wire the function is incorporated into the brake
Chapter 5A for disconnection of the throttle terminal on the loom side of the connector light switch circuit (see the wiring diagrams at
cable, which involves detaching the switch with the ignition ON — there should be battery the end of the Chapter).
housing from the handlebars. Free the throttle voltage.
Circuit check
cable from the twistgrip and remove it from 5 If the switch does not perform as expected,
the housing. To remove the left-hand switch, it is faulty and must be replaced with a new 2 The switch is mounted on the underside
unscrew the two handlebar switch screws one. If the switch is good, check the other of the brake master cylinder or drum brake
components and their wiring and connectors in equalizer mechanism — remove the handlebar
and free the switch from the handlebar by
separating the halves (see illustration). the starter circuit as described in the relevant cover(s) as required according to model for
sections of this Chapter. If all components are access (see Chapter 9). Disconnect the switch
Installation good, check the wiring between the various wiring connectors — where the rear brake light
9 Installation is the reverse of removal. components (see the wiring diagrams at the switch is combined with the starter inhibitor
10 On all except S-wing models make sure end of this Chapter). Repair or replace the switch, the brake light switch connectors are
the switch tabs locate correctly in the cover wiring as required. the ones on the side of the switch, not at the
(see illustration 20.7). back (see illustrations 14.2a, b, c and d).
Replacement 3 Using a continuity tester, connect the
11 On S-wing models make sure the locating
pin in the switch housing locates in the hole 6 The sidestand switch is mounted on the probes to the terminals of the switch, or to
in the handlebar. Refer to Chapter 5A for stand pivot (see illustration 21.2). On Dylan the terminals in the switch side connectors.
installation of the throttle cable and right-hand and @ models remove the belly panel (see With the brake lever at rest, there should be
Chapter 9). On Pantheon models remove no continuity. With the brake lever applied,
switch housing.
12 Check the operation of the switches the maintenance panel for access to the there should be continuity. If the switch does
before riding the scooter. right-hand side of the engine (see Chapter 9). not behave as described, replace it with a new
On S-wing models remove the centre cover one.
21 Sidestand switch (see Chapter 9). Disconnect the green 2-pin
wiring connector. Feed the wiring back to the
4 lf the switches are good, check for voltage
at the black/white or black wire terminal
switch, freeing it from any clips and ties and (according to model) on the loom side with the
noting its routing, and removing any other ignition switch ON - there should be battery
ae x
body panels as required according to model. voltage. If there’s no voltage present, check
1 A sidestand switch is fitted as standard to 7 Unscrew the bolt and remove the switch, the wiring between the connector and the
@, Pantheon and S-wing models, and may noting how it locates. ignition switch via the fusebox (see the wiring
be fitted as an option on Dylan models. The 8 Fit the new switch onto the sidestand, diagrams at the end of this Chapter). If voltage
10°20 Electrical system

23.2a Horn (A) and its wiring connectors 23.2b Horn (A) and its wiring connectors 23.2c Horn (A) and its wiring connectors
(B) - SH and PS models (B) - Dylan and @ models (B) - Pantheon and S-wing models

is present, check the green/yellow, green/red left-hand switch gear. If there is, the problem lever pulled in, press the starter switch. The
or pink wire (according to model) for continuity lies between the switch and the horn. If there relay should be heard to click.
to the starter button, referring to the relevant isn’t, the problem lies between the ignition 4 If the relay doesn’t click, switch off the
wiring diagram. Repair or replace the wiring or switch and the horn switch via the fuse. ignition, remove the relay as described below,
connectors as necessary. 5 If all the wiring and connectors are good, and test it as follows.
Switch replacement check the horn button contacts in the switch 5 Set a multimeter to the ohms x 1 scale and
(see Section 20). connect it across the relay’s starter motor
5 See Section 14.
and battery lead terminals (see illustration
Replacement
24.3). There should be no continuity. Using a
23 Horn 6 On SH and PS models remove the upper fully-charged 12 volt battery and two insulated
front panel (see Chapter 9). On Dylan, @, jumper wires, connect the positive (+) terminal of
MiG Pantheon and S-wing models remove the
inner front panel (See Chapter 9).
the battery to the yellow/red wire terminal of the
relay, and the negative (-) terminal to the green
7 Disconnect the wiring connectors from the or green/white (according to model) wire terminal
Check
horn (see illustration 23.2a, b or c). Unscrew of the relay. At this point the relay should be
1 On SH and PS models remove the upper the bolt securing the horn. heard to click and the multimeter read 0 ohms
front panel (see Chapter 9). On Dylan, @, 8 Install the horn and connect the wiring. (continuity). If this is the case the relay is proved
Pantheon and S-wing models remove the Check that it works.
inner front panel (see Chapter 9). good. If the relay does not click when battery
2 Disconnect the wiring connectors from the voltage is applied and indicates no continuity
24 Starter relay (infinite resistance) across its terminals, it is
horn (see illustrations). Check them for loose
wires. Using two jumper wires, apply voltage faulty and must be replaced with a new one.
from a fully-charged 12V battery directly to
the terminals on the horn. If the horn doesn’t
i
WH 6 If the relay is good, check for continuity in
the main lead from the battery to the relay. Also
sound, replace it with a new one. check that the terminals and connectors at each
3 If the horn works check the fuse (Section 5), Check end of the lead are tight and corrosion-free.
then check for voltage at the light green wire 1 If the starter circuit is faulty, first check the 7 Next check for battery voltage at the yellow/
connector with the ignition ON and the horn fuses (see Section 5). red wire terminal on the relay wiring connector
button pressed. If voltage is present, check 2 The starter relay is located next to the with the ignition ON, the sidestand up where
the green wire for continuity to earth. battery (see illustration 5.3a, c or d) — remove fitted, the rear brake lever pulled in, and the
4 If no voltage was present, check the light the maintenance access panel to the battery/ starter button pressed. If there is no voltage,
green wire for continuity between the horn fusebox/starter relay (see Chapter 9). check the wiring and connectors between
and the switch, and the black/brown wire from 3 Lift the main terminal cover and unscrew the relay wiring connector and the starter
the switch to the fuse (see the wiring diagrams the bolt securing the starter motor lead (see button, and then from the starter button back
at the end of this Chapter). With the ignition illustration); position the lead away from the to the fusebox via the brake light switches
switch ON, check that there is voltage at the relay terminal. With the ignition switch ON, the or inhibitor switch, according to model. Next
black/brown wire to the horn button in the sidestand up where fitted, and the rear brake check the switches themselves.
8 If voltage is present, check that there is
continuity to earth in the green or green white
wire, on models with a sidestand making sure it is
retracted. If not check the wiring and connectors,
and where fitted the sidestand switch.

Replacement
9 The starter relay is located next to the
battery (see illustration 5.3a, c or d) - remove
the maintenance access panel to the battery/
fusebox/starter relay (see Chapter 9).
10 Disconnect the battery, remembering to
disconnect the negative (-) terminal first (see
24.3 Starter motor lead and battery lead Section 3).
24.11 Disconnect the relay wiring
(arrowed) 11 Disconnect the relay wiring connector (see
connector
illustration). Lift the main terminal cover and
 Electrical system 10¢21

le : Ae

25.3 Pull back the terminal cover then 25.4a Unscrew the two bolts (arrowed), 25.4b ... and remove the starter motor
unscrew the nut (arrowed) and detach the noting the earth lead(s) ...
lead

unscrew the bolts securing the starter motor 5 Remove the O-ring on the end of the starter tion 25). Cover the body in some rag and
and battery leads to the relay and detach the motor and discard it as a new one must be clamp the motor in a soft-jawed vice — do not
leads (see illustration 24.3). Remove the relay used. over-tighten it.
from its rubber sleeve. If the relay is being 2 Using a fully-charged 12 volt battery and
replaced with a new one, remove the main Installation
two insulated jumper wires, connect the
fuse from the relay. 6 Fit a new O-ring onto the end of the starter positive (+) terminal of the battery to the
12 Installation is the reverse of removal. Make motor, making sure it is seated in its groove protruding terminal on the starter motor, and
sure the terminal bolts are securely tightened. (see illustration). Apply a smear of engine oil the negative (-) terminal to one of the motor’s
Do not forget to fit the main fuse into the relay, to the O-ring. mounting lugs. At this point the starter motor
if removed. Connect the negative (-) lead last 7 Manoeuvre the motor into position and should spin. If this is the case the motor is
when reconnecting the battery. slide it into the crankcase (see illustration proved good, though it is worth overhauling it
25.4b). Ensure that the starter motor teeth if you suspect it of not working properly under
25 Starter motor removal and mesh correctly with those of the starter idle/ load. If the motor does not spin, disassemble
installation reduction gear. Install the mounting bolts, it for inspection.
not forgetting to secure the earth lead(s)
Wit where fitted, and tighten them (see illus-
20017 to 2008 SH, Dylan, @, PS
tration 25.4a).
8 Connect the starter lead to the motor and and Pantheon models
Removal
secure it with the nut (see illustration 25.3). Disassembly
1 Disconnect the battery negative (-) lead Fit the rubber cover over the terminal.
(see Section 3). The starter motor is mounted 9 Install the air filter housing (see Chapter 5A 3 Remove the starter motor (see Sec-
on the top of the crankcase. or B). tion 25).
2 Remove the air filter housing (see Chap- 10 Connect the battery negative (-) lead (see 4 Note any alignment marks between the
ter 5A or B). For best access also remove the Section 3). Install any removed body panels main housing and the front and rear covers,
storage compartment (see Chapter 9). (see Chapter 9). or make your own if they aren’t clear (see
3 Peel back the rubber terminal cover on the illustration 26.26).
starter motor (see iliustration). Unscrew the 5 Unscrew the two long bolts, noting the
nut securing the starter lead to the motor and O-rings, then remove the front cover (see
26 Starter motor overhaul illustrations). Remove the tabbed washer
detach the lead — if the terminal is corroded

HH
spray it with some penetrating fluid and leave from the cover and slide the insulating washer
it for a while before attempting to undo it. and shim(s) from the front end of the armature
4 Unscrew the two bolts securing the starter (though they could be stuck to the tabbed
motor to the crankcase, where fitted noting the washer), noting the number of shims and their
earth lead(s) (see illustration). Slide the starter Check correct fitted order.
motor out and remove it (see illustration). 1 Remove the starter motor (see Sec- 6 Hold the rear cover and armature and draw

eS

25.6 Fit a new O-ring (arrowed) and 26.5a Unscrew and remove the two 26.5b ... then remove the front cover
lubricate it bolts...
10°22 Electrical system

26.6 Remove the housing, then draw the 26.9a Unscrew the nut and remove the 26.9b ... then remove the brush plate
armature (arrowed) out of the rear cover plain washer and the large and small
insulating washers...

the main housing off (see illustration) — it will Specifications (see illustration 26.33). If needle bearing in the front cover and the bush
be held in by the attraction of the magnets. either of the brushes are worn beyond the in the rear cover for wear and damage — the
Note the sealing ring on each end of the service limit, fit a new set. If the brushes are seal, bearing, bush and covers are not listed
housing. not worn excessively, nor cracked, chipped, as being available separately so if necessary
7 Withdraw the armature from the rear cover or otherwise damaged, they may be reused. a new starter motor must be fitted (see
(see illustration 26.6). Remove the shim(s) Check the brush springs for distortion and illustrations 26.37a and b).
from the rear end of the armature or from in fatigue. Check the brushplate and insulators 15 Inspect the magnets in the main housing
the rear cover noting how many and their for damage. and the housing itself for cracks.
correct fitted positions. 11 Inspect the commutator bars on 16 Inspect the insulating washers, O-rings,
8 At this stage check for continuity between the armature for scoring, scratches and and sealing rings for signs of damage,
the terminal bolt and its brush - there should discoloration. The commutator can be cleaned deformation and deterioration and replace
be continuity (zero resistance). Check for and polished with crocus cloth, but do not use them with new ones if necessary. Honda
continuity between the terminal bolt and the sandpaper or emery paper. After cleaning, specify to use new O-rings and sealing rings
cover — there should be no continuity (infinite wipe away any residue with a cloth soaked whatever the condition of the old ones.
resistance). Also check for continuity between in electrical system cleaner or denatured
the other brush and the rear cover — there Reassembly
alcohol.
should be continuity (zero resistance). If there 12 Using an ohmmeter or a continuity 17 Make sure each brush is correctly located
is no continuity when there should be or vice in its housing. Fit the insulator piece onto the
test light, check for continuity between the
versa, identify the faulty component and terminal bolt. Insert the terminal bolt through
commutator bars (see illustration). Continuity
replace it with a new one. its hole and seat the brush plate in the rear
should exist between each bar and all of the
9 Noting the correct fitted location of each cover, locating the tab in the groove. Fit the
others. Also, check for continuity between the
component, unscrew the nut from the terminal O-ring down over the bolt and press it into
commutator bars and the armature shaft (see
bolt and remove the plain washer, the one place between the bolt and the cover. Slide
illustration). There should be no continuity
large and two small insulating washers (see the small insulating washers onto the terminal
(infinite resistance) between the commutator
illustration). Lift the brush plate out of the rear bolt, followed by the large insulating washer
and the shaft. If the checks indicate otherwise,
cover, noting how it locates, and withdraw the and the plain washer. Fit the nut onto the
the armature is defective and a new starter
terminal bolt from the cover (see illustration). terminal bolt and tighten it.
Remove the O-ring from the bolt and the motor bust be obtained —- the armature is not
available separately. 18 At this stage check for continuity between
insulator piece from the cover. the terminal bolt and the cover — there should
13 Check the front end of the armature shaft
Inspection for worn, cracked, chipped and broken teeth. be no continuity (infinite resistance). Also
10 The parts of the starter motor that are If the shaft is damaged or worn, a new starter check for continuity between the negative
most likely to require attention are the brushes. motor must be obtained — the armature is not brush and the rear cover — there should be
Slide each brush out of its housing. Measure continuity (zero resistance). If there is no
available separately.
the length of each brush and compare the 14, Inspect the front and rear covers for signs continuity when there should be or vice versa,
results to the length listed in this Chapter’s identify the faulty component and replace it
of cracks or wear. Check the oil seal and the
with a new one.
19 Fit the shim(s) onto the rear of the
armature shaft. Apply a smear of grease to
the end of the shaft. Fit the armature into the
rear cover, locating the brushes against the
commutator bars, then pushing them back
into their housings to align the shaft end with
its bush, and push the armature in.
20 Fit the sealing ring onto the rear of the
main housing, which has a cut-out in its rim.
Grasp both the armature and the rear cover
in one hand and hold them together - this will
prevent the armature being drawn out by the
26.12a There should be continuity magnets in the housing. Note however that
26.12b ...and no continuity between the
between the bars... you should take care not to let the housing
bars and the shaft
be drawn forcibly onto the armature by the
 Electrical system 10°23

26.26 Note the alignment marks between 26.27a Unscrew and remove the two bolts 26.27b ... then remove the front cover
the housing and the covers (arrowed)...

magnets. Carefully allow the housing to be 28 Hold the rear cover and armature and 31 Slide the brushes out of their housings
drawn onto the armature, making sure the end draw the main housing off (see illustration) and remove the springs (see illustration).
with the cut-out faces the rear cover, that the — it will be held in by the attraction of the Undo the screw securing the negative
cut-out locates over the tab on the insulator magnets. Note the sealing ring on each end of brush and remove the brush (see illus-
piece, and the marks between the cover and the housing. tration).
housing align (Step 4) (see illustration 26.6). 29 Withdraw the armature from the rear cover 32 Unscrew the nut from the terminal bolt and
21 Apply a smear of grease to the front cover (see illustration). remove the washer, the insulator, the terminal
oil seal lip. Fit the tabbed washer into the 30 At this stage check for continuity between housing and the O-ring (see illustration).
cover so that its teeth are correctly located the terminal bolt and the positive brush (see Remove the terminal bolt and positive brush
with the cover ribs. illustrations 26.32 and 26.31b) — there should from the cover, then remove the brush holder
22 Fit the sealing ring onto the front of the be continuity (zero resistance). Check for (see illustration 26.31b).
housing. Slide the shim(s) onto the front end continuity between the terminal bolt and the
of the armature shaft then fit the insulating cover - there should be no continuity (infinite
Inspection
washer. Slide the front cover into position, resistance). Also check for continuity between
aligning the marks (see illustration 26.5b). the negative brush and the rear cover — there 33 The parts of the starter motor that
23 Check the marks made on removal are should be continuity (zero resistance). If there are most likely to require attention are the
correctly aligned then fit the long bolts, not is no continuity when there should be or vice brushes. Measure the length of each brush
forgetting the O-rings, and tighten them (see versa, identify the faulty component and and compare the results to the length listed
illustration 26.5a). replace it with a new one. in this Chapter’s Specifications (see illus-
24 Install the starter motor (see Section 25).

2009-on SH and all S-wing

models
Disassembly
25 Remove the starter motor (see Sec-
tion 25).
- 26 Note any alignment marks between the
main housing and the front and rear covers,
or make your own if they aren’t clear (see
illustration).
27 Unscrew the two long bolts, then
26.29 Draw the armature out of the rear
remove the front cover from the motor (see
cover
illustrations).

bere
see e sidaF ee: a

26.31b Negative brush screw (A), negative 26.32 Terminal bolt (arrowed)
26.31a Slide the brushes out and remov
the springs (arrowed) brush (B), positive brush (C)
10°24 Electrical system

26.33 Measure the length of each brush 26.37a Check the bearing and seal in the 26.37b ... and the bush (arrowed) in the
front cover... rear cover

tration). If either of the brushes are worn as being available separately so if necessary armature shaft. Fit the armature onto the rear
beyond the service limit, fit a new set. If a new starter motor must be fitted (see cover so that the shaft end locates in its bush
the brushes are not worn excessively, nor illustrations). (see illustration 26.29).
cracked, chipped, or otherwise damaged, they 38 Inspect the magnets in the main housing 44 Fit the sealing ring onto the rear of the
may be reused. Check the brush springs for and the housing itself for cracks. main housing, which has a cut-out in its rim.
distortion and fatigue. Check the brushplate 39 Inspect the insulator, O-rings, and sealing Grasp both the armature and the rear cover
and insulators for damage. rings for signs of damage, deformation and in one hand and hold them together — this will
34 Inspect the commutator bars on deterioration and replace them with new ones prevent the armature being drawn out by the
the armature for scoring, scratches and if necessary. Honda specify to use new O-rings magnets in the housing. Note however that
discoloration. The commutator can be cleaned and sealing rings whatever the condition of you should take care not to let the housing
and polished with crocus cloth, but do not use the old ones. be drawn forcibly onto the armature by the
sandpaper or emery paper. After cleaning, Reassembly magnets. Carefully allow the housing to be
wipe away any residue with a cloth soaked drawn onto the armature (see illustration
40 Fit the brush holder into the rear cover
in electrical system cleaner or denatured 26.28), making sure the end with the cut-out
(see illustration 26.31b). Locate the positive
alcohol. faces the rear cover, that the cut-out locates
brush on the holder and insert the terminal
35 Using an ohmmeter or a continuity over the tab, and the marks between the cover
bolt through its hole. Fit the O-ring down over
test light, check for continuity between the and housing align (Step 26) (see illustration).
the bolt and press it into place between the
commutator bars. Continuity should exist 45 Fit the sealing ring onto the front of the
bolt and the cover. Fit the terminal housing,
between each bar and all of the others. Also, the insulator and the washer (see illustration housing. Apply a smear of grease to the front
check for continuity between the commutator 26.32). Fit the nut onto the terminal bolt and cover oil seal lip. Slide the front cover into
bars and the armature shaft. There should tighten it. position, aligning the marks (see illustration
be no continuity (infinite resistance) between 41 Fit the negative brush and secure it with 26.27b).
the commutator and the shaft. If the checks the screw (see illustration 26.31b). Fit the 46 Check the marks made on removal are
indicate otherwise, the armature is defective brush springs into the brush housings, then fit correctly aligned (see illustration 26.26)
and a new starter motor bust be obtained — the brushes onto the springs (see illustration then fit the long bolts and tighten them (see
the armature is not available separately. 26.31). illustration).
36 Check the front end of the armature shaft 42 At this stage check for continuity between 47 Install the starter motor (see Section 25).
for worn, cracked, chipped and broken teeth. the terminal bolt and the cover — there should
If the shaft is damaged or worn, a new starter be no continuity (infinite resistance). Also 27 Charging system testing N
motor bust be obtained —- the armature is not check for continuity between the negative S ;
available separately. brush and the rear cover — there should be
37 Inspect the front and rear covers for signs continuity (zero resistance). If there is no
of cracks or wear. Check the oil seal and continuity when there should be or vice versa,
the bearing in the front cover and the bush identify the faulty component and replace it 1 If the performance of the charging system
in the rear cover for wear and damage — the is suspect, the system as a whole should
with a new one.
seal, bearing, bush and covers are not listed be checked first, followed by testing of
43 Apply a smear of grease to the end of the
the individual components. Note: Before
beginning the checks, make sure the
battery is fully charged and that all system
connections are clean and tight.
2 Checking the output of the charging system
and the performance of the various components
within the charging system requires the use of
a multimeter (with voltage, current, resistance
checking facilities). If a multimeter is not
available, the job of checking the charging
system should be left to a Honda dealer.
3 When making the checks, follow the ’

procedures carefully to prevent incorrect

26.44 Fit the housing onto the armature connections or short circuits resulting in
26.46 Fit the long bolts and tighten them
locating the cut-out over the tab irreparable damage to electrical system
components.
 Electrical system 10¢25

Leakage test
Caution: Always connect an ammeter in
series, never in parallel with the battery,
otherwise it will be damaged. Do not turn
the ignition ON or operate the starter motor
when the ammeter is connected - a sudden
surge in current will blow the meter’s fuse.
4 Ensure the ignition is OFF, then disconnect
the battery negative (-) lead (see Section 3). pease
5 Set the multimeter to the Amps function
) ®
and connect its negative (-) probe to the
battery negative (-) terminal, and positive (+) H46302 H46300
probe to the disconnected negative (-) lead
27.5 Checking the charging system 27.9 Checking regulated voltage output —
(see illustration). Always set the meter to
leakage rate - connect the meter as shown connect the meter as shown
a high amps range initially and then bring it
down to the mA (milli Amps) range; if there is a the beginning of this Chapter. If the regulated of three readings, then check for continuity
high current flow in the circuit it may blow the voltage output is outside the specification, between each terminal and ground (earth). If
meter’s fuse. check the alternator and the regulator (see the stator coil windings are in good condition
6 Battery current leakage should not exceed Sections 28 and 29). the three readings should be within the
the maximum limit (See Specifications). If a
range shown in the Specifications at the
higher leakage rate is shown there is a short PAN
AN =) Clues to a faulty regulator start of this Chapter, and there should be no
Circuit in the wiring, although if an after-market are constantly blowing continuity (infinite resistance) between any of
immobiliser or alarm is fitted, its current draw bulbs, with brightness the terminals and ground (earth). If not, the
should be taken into account. Disconnect the varying considerably with
alternator stator coil assembly is at fault and
meter and reconnect the battery negative (-) engine speed, and battery
should be replaced with a new one. Note:
lead. overheating.
Before condemning the stator coils, check the
7 lf leakage is indicated, refer to Wiring
fault is not due to damaged wiring between
Diagrams at the end of this Chapter to
the connector and the coils.
systematically disconnect individual electrical 28 Alternator
components and repeat the test until the Removal
source is identified.
Wh 4bodyRemove the storage compartment and the
Regulated output test cover (see Chapter 9).
Check 5 Drain the engine oil (see Chapter 1). Drain
8 Start the engine and warm it up. Remove
the maintenance access panel to the battery/ 1 Remove the storage compartment (see the coolant (see Chapter 4). Remove the
fusebox/starter relay (see Chapter 9). Chapter 9). Trace the alternator wiring from the exhaust system (see Chapter 5A or B).
9 To check the regulated (DC) voltage output, cover on the right-hand side of the engine and 6 Release the clamps and detach the coolant
allow the engine to idle with the headlight main disconnect it at the white wiring connector hoses from the water pump (see illustration).
beam (HI) turned ON. Connect a multimeter with the three yellow wires — if necessary, on 7 On SH models lower the right-hand
set to the 0-20 volts DC scale across the 2001 to 2004 SH, Dylan and @ models also passenger footrest and undo the screw behind
terminals of the battery with the positive (+) remove the body cover for better access (see it. Unscrew the footrest bracket bolts and
meter probe to battery positive (+) terminal Chapter 9). remove the footrest, pulling the floor panel
and the negative (-) meter probe to battery 2 Check the connector terminals for corrosion away as required for clearance. ;
- negative (-) terminal (see Section 3) (see and security. 8 Check the hooking point of the right-hand
illustration). 3 Using a multimeter set to the ohms x 1 spring for the centrestand on your model -
10 Slowly increase the engine speed to (ohmmeter) scale measure the resistance where it hooks onto a post on the alternator
5000 rpm and note the reading obtained. between each of the yellow wires on the cover, retract the stand and support the
scooter,
Compare the result with the Specification at alternator side of the connector, taking a total then unhook the spring (see illustration). Place

28.8 Unhook the spring from its post (arrowed) on the cover
28.6 Release the clamps (arrowed) and detach the hoses
 10°26 Electrical system

= lll J

28.11 Note the earth lead (arrowed) secured 28.13 Withdraw the shaft (arrowed) and 28.16 Stator bolts (arrowed)
by one of the cover bolts on some models remove the gear

the scooter back on the stand — the left-hand onto the centre of the rotor, then counter-hold 20 Clean the tapered end of the crankshaft
spring is sufficient to hold it. it using a spanner on the flats and tighten the and the corresponding mating surface on the
9 On 2001 to 2004 SH models, all Dylan and bolt in its centre until the rotor is displaced inside of the rotor with a suitable solvent. Fit
@ models displace or remove the ignition coil from the shaft (see illustration 28.21). the Woodruff key into its slot in the crankshaft
(see Chapter 6). Remove the Woodruff key from its slot in the if removed (see illustration 28.21). Lubricate
10 Trace the alternator and pulse generator crankcase if it is loose. If required detach the the flat section of the crankshaft that the
coil wiring from the cover and disconnect it starter clutch from the rotor (see Chapter 2). starter driven gear turns on with molybdenum
at the connectors. Free all necessary wiring 16 To remove the stator from the cover, first oil (a 50/50 mix of engine oil and molybdenum
from any guides and ties around the alternator remove the pulse generator coil (see Chapter grease).
cover. Check around the cover and make sure 6), then unscrew the stator bolts and lift the 21 If removed fit the starter clutch onto the
everything is clear for the bolts to be undone stator out, noting how the rubber wiring rotor (see Chapter 2). Make sure that no metal
and the cover to be removed —- remove or grommet fits (see illustration). objects have attached themselves to the
displace anything in the way. 17 Note that there is an oil seal in the magnet on the inside of the rotor. Slide the
11 Working in a criss-cross pattern, evenly alternator cover that is crucial for the oil rotor onto the shaft, making sure the groove
slacken the alternator cover bolts, noting the supply to the crankshaft, and it is best to fit on the inside of the rotor is aligned with and
position of the engine earth lead where fitted a new one whenever the alternator cover is fits over the Woodruff key (see illustration).
(see illustration). removed. Remove the circlip securing the seal, Make sure the Woodruff key does not
12 Draw the cover off the engine, noting then lever the seal out using a screwdriver or become disicdged when installing the
that it will be restrained by the force of the seal hook, or use a puller if necessary (see rotor.
rotor magnets, and be prepared to catch any illustration). 22 Apply some clean oil to the rotor nut
residual oil. Remove and discard the gasket threads and the underside of the head. Fit
(see illustration 28.24a). Remove the dowels the nut with its washer and tighten it to the
from either the cover or the crankcase if Installation
torque setting specified at the beginning of
loose. 18 Fit a new oil seal into the cover with its the Chapter, using the method employed on
13 Withdraw the idle/reduction gear shaft marked side facing out of the cover. Smear the removal to prevent the rotor from turning (see
and remove the gear (see illustration). seal lips with oil. Fit the circlip (see illustration illustration).
14 To remove the rotor nut it is necessary 28.17). 23 Lubricate the idle/reduction gear shaft
to stop the rotor from turning using a 19 Fit the stator into the cover, aligning the with clean engine oil, then locate the gear,
commercially available rotor strap (see rubber wiring grommet with the groove (see meshing the small inner gear teeth with those
illustration 28.22). With the rotor held, illustration 28.16). Tighten the bolts to the on the driven gear and the larger outer gear
. unscrew the nut and remove the washer. torque setting specified at the beginning of teeth with those of the starter motor shaft, and
15 To remove the rotor from the shaft it is the Chapter. Apply a suitable sealant to the insert the shaft into its bore in the crankcase
necessary to use a rotor puller (Honda part wiring grommet, then press it into the cut-out (see illustration 28.13).
No.07KMC-HEO00100, or its commercially in the cover. Install the pulse generator coil 24 Fit the dowels into the crankcase if
available equivalent). Thread the rotor puller (see Chapter 6). removed, then locate a new gasket onto the

28.21 Slide the rotor onto the shaft, 28.22 Hold the rotor and tighten the nut to
remove the seal aligning the cut-out with the Woodruff key
the specified torque
(arrowed)
 Electrical system 10¢27

Bese oor. PERG.

28.24a Make sure the dowels (arrowed) are in place, then fit the 28.24b Smear sealant onto the grommet (arrowed)
new gasket

dowels (see illustration). Smear a suitable 3 Set the multimeter to the 0-20 DC volts 7 If the wiring checks out, the regulator/
sealant onto the wiring grommet (see setting. Connect the meter positive (+) probe rectifier unit is probably faulty. Honda provide
illustration). Install the alternator cover, noting to the red/white wire terminal on the loom side no test data for the unit itself. Take it to a
that the rotor magnets will forcibly draw the of the connector and the negative (-) probe Honda dealer for confirmation of its condition
cover/stator on, making sure it locates onto to a suitable ground (earth) and check for before replacing it with a new one.
the dowels. Tighten the cover bolts evenly ina voltage. Full battery voltage should be present
criss-cross sequence, not forgetting the earth at all times. On models with two connectors, FPNas-y Clues to a faulty regulator
lead where detached (see illustration 28.11). also check for battery voltage at the black are constantly blowing
25 Reconnect the wiring at the connector. wire terminal with the ignition ON. bulbs, with brightness
26 Install all remaining components as 4 Switch the multimeter to the resistance varying considerably with
required according to model in a reverse of (ohms) scale. Check for continuity between engine speed, and battery
the removal procedure (Steps 11 back to the green wire terminal on the loom side of the overheating.
4), referring to the relevant Chapters where connector and ground (earth). There should
directed. Make sure all wiring and hoses are be continuity in each terminal. Removal and installation
securely connected and correctly routed. 5 Set the multimeter to the ohms x 1 8 On SH, Dylan @ and PS models remove
(ohmmeter) scale and measure the resistance the body cover (see Chapter 9). On Pantheon
29 Regulator/rectifier between each of the yellow wires on the loom models remove the upper front panel and
side of the connector, taking a total of three the centre cover (see Chapter 9). On S-wing
WHE readings, then check for continuity between
each terminal and ground (earth). The three
models remove the instrument cover and the
inner front panel (See Chapter 9).
readings should be within the range shown in 9 Disconnect the regulator/rectifier wiring
Check the Specifications for the alternator stator coil connector(s) (see illustration 29.2a, b or c).
1 On 2001 to 2004 SH, all Dylan and @ at the start of this Chapter, and there should 10 Unscrew the two bolts securing the
models remove the body cover (see Chapter be no continuity (infinite resistance) between regulator/rectifier, noting the earth wire on
9). On later SH and all PS models remove any of the terminals and ground (earth). 2001 to 2004 SH, Dylan and @ models (see
the storage compartment (see Chapter 9). 6 If the above checks do not provide the illustration 29.2a).
On Pantheon models remove the upper front expected results check the wiring and 11 Fit the new unit and tighten its bolts, not
panel (see Chapter 9). On S-wing models connectors between the battery, regulator/ forgetting the earth wire on 2001 to 2004
remove the instrument cover (see Chapter 9). rectifier and alternator, and where fitted the SH, Dylan and @ models. Connect the wiring
2 Disconnect the regulator/rectifier wiring black wire to the fusebox, for shorts, breaks, connector(s).
connector(s) (see illustrations). Check the and loose or corroded terminals (see the 12 Install the body panels as required (see
connector terminals for corrosion and security. wiring diagrams at the end of this chapter). Chapter 9).

P Ped en oh we nf al Noe wtih -

29.2a Regulator/rectifier (A) and its wiring 29.2b Regulator/rectifier (A) and its wiring 29.2c Regulator/rectifier (A) and its wiring
connector (B) — 2001 to 2004 SH, and all connectors (B) - 2005-on SH and all connectors (B) - S-wing models (Pantheon
Dylan and @ models PS models similar)
10028 ; Notes
 Wiring diagrams 10°29

B pe yew Aejassopeyg
ue

esnj
L20L¢H
>>o330 pec
cMa=

ES
SS E e6neb

a
oyHosyy
uonisod
4osuas

>
o0 pue
ey 4eue}S
eye1q
2y46y 4ojow

Ossicleas
oOcoun
O>>+oMOOOMTOS>+OO
SMa
Prousjos

=
4Josues
SAJEA
SEO =:
eunjesoduiay
0.4209.
see

esjnd

uno Sea
4oyesoueb
Now JueweBeuew eubuz

, E
Pesce

888 83
|

mona
uonuby

messehse

4OR|G/USSID)
pey/uee5
= essinz

MO||BA/UBAIE)
umoleveni
Oo ne]
Sz
8oseS
®
sQ}eURYY

ey
Usa
£= 25

yorlg
a /4ojejnBey

+]

PE
4OunIeL

ep
sass
Sxg = &

am

Pee
[=

o
eyjoiyy
uonisod

|
4osues

ira
yeses
40}9@UU09

geo
xo
pue joo uomuby

re Tl nr —

noo
—_Bnjd yseds

eulely

poe
yee

=
oe
4

@
=i
6
32
yun
&| a
§ Aejas uieyy

932
<2:
eee

(o}
ojny
Fi

2 @
ae

oa eyoyo

82
b=
iv g 5 fo)>
G) |
c
ae |
oe

pue}js

28
Oo

oO =
youms
Gohl

o©
eon

©
jeuBis wing

.
.
J
|

,
apis
om 8 |
2 a e)5
i
£8
Feszeu
S52
Ost
SSpeno
3

uej
eulbuz
:

Buyooo
xoq esny

0 =
Jeng]
a Josuas
@
an jong
O f\ x (
) @., ©
jepow
youms uonsuby

Buissed
youms
Cm pT

yoyns
|
eet |

Sen
i
ie

sessggs 1euLIg
Pw BAY

ed
onom
ieiecon OS
O}
youms Bunybry

S
i

is
ae,

=
A

|aca
5 =ee youms
= x
mea

oO
Ls

lil

=f

yeubrs
a 2
“

Be
platens

ail
BOS

sie
eyesgzuoly
youms jy6)

win
i]
=
|
V/
oe8 &
°

qoyms
Joy eyeiq
5aS=a

ra
Yyoums
2

z
Se
= sOLIEIS

yy6y
BES
yous

WOH}
Oe|g/uaeID*
umoig/oe|g
oxraneei9

enppoommmnccmmences
umoig/en|g
=

uMmolg/49e|g
yoe|g/ueei5
uMmolg/oR|G uMOIg/OE|G
pop=
ON|G'}]
ueetd)

cHils
ri
SUUMVENIG
r=
ale
way
_
246ypeay
uoyung
yesey

“|
ao

7 PO
een

»\
seysnjo eusis_ weeq eBuey)
yBiy weegq

von
e6neb 4o3e0;pur
4O,BOI/pul ‘o
a0
Bl
=
anjg/ebuei9
“

ca ybIH ji0
S=2S$385
FES3S
zo
665
o£6
quewnsjsuy
weeg

MO|eA/OUUM
tony
ebriedenig/ueei5
bad
, pectic, 4ojeo|pur
H7

He
moj
10¢30 Wiring diagrams

§ 2 « > g
as
8
Yellow/Red
s
B85 2
< t
@:
a)
-
«
:
A sam Yellow/Blue = | j= raze ae Ey 8
ES Blue/Green 5 rs = So 85
2 B HES

: 7 - Blue/Green
aera] | Poaemniettemeree BS
&& ge
I Wid
aisof
ae
= Yellow/Blue °85>
=] a Black
8 r= Yellow/Red 4 85
= breer Pik sereseanconmsrnnaaeeenamnanesnlt pst White/Yellow = as
g mm Black gs Yellow s
% jae Green/Blue l 8§
£ |= White/Yellow if L== Yellow === 5
£ r= Yellow ‘ |i = Yellow =
3 g RE Yellow
3
) jaa" ae
asGreen/White 1D 3 « =
a jes Green/Black 3 3§ 5: 2 25 x |)
-: =x Black/Yellow - 190
4586 ic
= 32s
258

Yellow a
ae 5 Yellow 53
Oo. e
Bee a fe acl coo | Yellow 35
gk

gg3 5 Black edaie &

vuc .
BD 2
3a Black ge
5= ROE SU SRE nes Sees asec” meas eat Green oe |
p> & §
so
be

3 O10 Red =
e aad Red/Black Green/Black gA
g Red/Yellow S = Yellow. == a
Green 8

Pe Green/Red
i4 Black/Brown
e
Headlight

Horn, turn signal,

|meter, tail &
position li
Engine

box
Fuse
Green
Blue/White
fan
cooling
sensor
Yellow/White = Fuel
level Dylan
2002

Ignition
switch

Black/Brown
Brown
Black
Black/Red
3 Blue/White
switch
Lighting

a Green/Yellow *
j= Yellow/Red
Green/Yellow
switch
light
Front
brake Lt.Green
Black/Brown

Brown/Black
Green/Black
Lt.Green/Black
Lt.Blue
Green Orange BrownBlack/Brown
Green/Black
Green/Blue
Black/Yellow
==

Headlight Sidelight
 iring diagrams 10°31
e/130/41 uonIsod

esnjujew

ee
JaLE}SAejas
USS 1yBi
rg in ye]yeuGis

:
4osues
Yellow/Red =
i Be
4osues

4e28y

4epe}S
exe.1g
Yellow/Blue

4ojow
wing
Blue/Green

pue
E

g89
:‘enue
l ulvd AJA
Juewebeuew

eile
Blue/Green

4o}B10Ue6
!
No

-= Yellow/Blue

uoniubyasjnd
83
t= Yellow/Red

>>> =>
eulbuzZ
=be
el

DOOD OD
=)

2
=
=
j= Black
femme
aa
feast’ Green/Blue

=
White/Yellow

JoEWweyy
eulbuzZ

Ema
eecccennsain
Yellow Mo||eA/evUM O}U\/\/USO1D)

888
MO||9\/US0J5)
Green zac

|
POY/MO||OA
Hes Green/White
ONEUMOJG
pecan
pees Green/Black mmmasmm USSJD)

/4oyejnbey
Black/Yellow Y
|

deynoal
emjoiy,

smexmesay
sams mmm
sommanmemsy ==]
one)
=

353
[=
ny!uonyisod

Ses White/Yellow
Black
as
oo pue=

eulesy
88
no
uowuby

yee
Bnjd yseds

x
Black/Yellow ==
§=—
ureyy Aejas

eyoysyun
2 £8;
oo

ony
aS

eS
ec
G
5
Red/Black

2
Red/Yellow =
Biss aSS
yeu6is

glee
F ; |

=
3

©
5
S

©
2
i
Green/Red Bee
aes
Ce :
wing

Black/Brown p=
h
eee Sees

ueyBuyjoos
A
o

8002
eujbuz
'

- oO

ld
esn4 xoqg

9}
ue|Aq £002
a 5

~—_4osues
B2=
oS OZ

jong Jere]
|aes
ceca CERES

2s

oe
=:

oD
=
8 ~L = a t
uoruBl youms

SESE

d
MO||BA/UBSIF) OR|G/USS15)
Ee
ebueso
ONT]
comms

@n|q/UseID)
Sure
UDOIE)"Y]
umoigese orld iene
commmneremmaermmmennamme

JOURLECPYM
bit}

peyorig Boon we| amlwal as wel

“I
1]
yOR|g/UE2AID)
40L/e}5 YoUIMs

Black/Red
:

Blue/White
Black
SBESOS

Green/Yellow = "
jane poy

| de
OOM
5sgl

:.
PES 2 a
‘

tae steolar
youms
}UOIY eyeIG

UL

gS
VAY
One

s/s
Ee
Ox
3461]

:
2
yoe|g/umoig
mo|eA9RIG
}OE|G/USE1S)
peeds 4osues

|G/UBE1D'Y]

pes=
OR

l
umoig/pjoe|g
UMCIG/4OR|GyoR|g/useel5 Ainpeoved
QHUCIC)

anig/ueei5 Pey/used5)
SYUM/en|g
ONT]
USO)

eniay
=
eng
eae

sm =
meee

sxen|
meas}
may

=a

cia :

_> ;
flojsazOUIOpO/YyI0/D
oe :
quewingysuy
)reabis eunjesodusey
wing jeuBis

a
sowopur bee Bunsen
3
rm
yeuBis
246i
WOH
JULYYo]

4ajsnjo wing i
eS
juoly
471 win}

+Yyb)/peayH
2yByepis
yori
 =—--JOLIEIS eyesg yUolJ youms Buny6ry jeuBjs using pue joo uonjuBy = uonyuby enjosyy enqosyy
YOUMS . - Aad youms = Bnjd yueds uoyisod uogysod
3 4osues

: unt
oe = = Omn7T0OS+smonmn SFn
25 is = lan6s san ao=
e038
852635 So £ QO0FH SEO SoG
<5
339
3S Oo 2a g g aseSsifs cas
=
by 2 & gsezsits B35
= FS) Beet A
i
n uy

o
10°32 Wiring diagrams

= eHUMvenig
MOlleA/OUUM
umolgpjoRr|g
enjg/uea5
yoe|g/ueeld
umaigpjoerlg

a
enig

E77
ubiH
weg
=D wnorgoeid

usd)
:
subus Jonu0o
pileg — aunjedue,
yee e6neb
& enig/ebuei9

US2IE)
= pey/ueain'y] =f 7] POY/USEID)
gos
7esey UB2ID)
umoig/en|g : Thea mm uMolg/an|g

umoig/4oR|g i :

jel
pue
g/USEI5 OR] eyesq 1yBy

Hire}

3y6u

Juosy

usny
jeu6is
copie
= MO|IEA/OUUM

sae}SAejas
pue ulew esnj
a G) 6
JUOLAYo]

Black/B
26

Lt.Green
g g
usny jeuBis aed A te g
= ss mo 06M DID@
(ra aE: woo 5b gi

jony Jeng] eulbuz ony ewesy uonuBby]esjnd 4eue3S$ ear

4osues Buyjooo
uej eyoyoyun yyee JOyNIEL JQ}BLETYy 4ojesoueB 4ojow

OSL/SZLHS
1002 Pue Z00¢
 Juosy eyesg ELIS YOUNS wing yeu6is =
=uonsuBy joo pue
uoniuby emjouys, euibuzZ No®
JueweBbeuvew
3y6y youms —
4osues
: es eer eo Ne Sens i

Bnjd
jeses

yueds
| 4032@uU02

—uomsod
I I EUS ERPEDE
RU
> Fa a2seS550a756S%
6 8
a
2%Oooo FR SSSzRRS3Os ES
Granite Bw sx OG clodg Oss
eee 8 eae
BE ct
eee
s& esscasiips
fi seciilessa
sSB
‘ = = Bosx
4 i
||

anig/ueeld
yOe|G/USS15)

umoig/OR|g
umoig/oe|g
januoo
= =
pyouejos eunjeseduiel
[IO /e8ueys
, ie umoig/oe|g
; me ONIG/SBHUCIC a 4osues
ita ;
enen

"
e6neb

or fs
— |[el ita b
a
een si om Y/USSIE)7 sel jc a
ry
ss p. J
To
a :
roe
aaR fe a i, ae pie re (ie heer
we eeeea Soc el ee ee
yor|g/ueeld
erayueoi0
sare
Fa fili fi
: ae Peers
a ONT] iit
poommmcnmee —e c recon
49019 yor|g/usaiy'y] [ [= Ae = SS -a MO|[9A /USCUE) se]fat|e

- = USGI) st prat
el ll LL Le
lone j}eed OR
0880
2461s ju0L4
ee

win}
IF

jeuBis
Te =) MOIA/EUUM

{0
aes
246y|peeH :
7 :
: 1
;
G
|| ma
MOI
SUU/V/PoY
cam

eaae 2

=
=k

aa]
d

2yByepis
sez==

Wait
POY/MO}|SA
aot

+yByepis
emer == ——| 101815Aejas
A u i pue uleu esnj
2 6m | o G) =
, oD = | 2 2 £
U0ssYo] 5g m 5 s/
win} jeuBis Ose 2) 5 [700 ‘ Ss
Ses o)
Bee ges 333 53
© x eS
= Yellow
==
—H)

jong Jee] eujbuz ony jsoyeinBey uojyubyasind Jee]

dosues Buyjooo
uey
Wiring diagrams

eyoyoqiun 4OUNIOI JOB 4ojesoueb 4sozow BLOLPH

OSL/SCLHS
€002 Pue pode
10°33
10°34 Wiring diagrams

aa switch Fuse box Turn signal Cooling fan Main

—— . relay relay relay

'.It Tit
<@ o DOQQ 3O DOD
23 D> a a > @ 2B
a $ 9 83 8 Q
23 o ay] £]s8
aS g 5 Fae a
f= 5
Instrument i

- 1 in

ti "5inl
i
Red
Black/Red
Lt.Green/Black

eet

a i
= Green/Yellow | W ty a al le a
Black : Black/Brown
Green
Lt.Green/Black
GS
ee
eee
5
2a

RH sidelight

ar|
Black/Brown
Front right
turn signal

Front left (=
turn signal \*

LH sidelight

el i
usaI5
7]
Passing
SUUM/MO}I|2A
yoe|g/UEeID) yorlg eBueiQ/pey
YOR|G/AQID)
Het
maa
ames
switch

Rear brake
light switch

47019
Fuel level
Fuelpump sensor

SH125/150 2005 to 2008

 Wiring diagrams 10°35

Fuel cut-off Engine stop Ignition coil and Engine management ECU/throttle body
relay relay spark plug

Trtr ii i] bn LA A IS, i
DOOD DOD
ae @
EEPES
Lest tee
DOWSU®D ©
ere wouvo

mets 94
ggés 8288
= $s 2528S5 808
258755
B22
a ee
[22
To) oO a=
o
5
wopeZso
Caso
B ss
> 8
a}
=sp
oe
yte)
oo)
5
2:
7 | > ke ef 1
y Wl al
ra Raya k A
b Hi | ; I
iW

o a

1 Wt |
| iF ' i
LJ a)

j |
Orange/White
Brown Data link
Green connector
Black/White

we PiNk/Blue saemvsmeca
Black/White oma Fuel injector

a Pink vam | PAIR control

solenoid valve
Black/White a

Rear right
tum signal

» Lt.Blue ®
jaan Green/Yellow a
Tail and
Black/Brown brake light
Green
Orange

Rear left
tumsignal

Black/Brown Licence
Green plate light

Green
Starter relay
==" Yellow/Red == = and main fuse
\=— White/Yellow 7
=== Yellow ==]

ayUM

@BURIO/US2I5)

aa /\/\
9}!
C/G
es
aBbueiopoe|g

=
cy,
HU
SHUAA/
ee
see
eee:
oe
are enjgsueai
nesses aBueIQ/Usa!d
23
oO YUld/UBS15,
usal5
YOR|G/USSIS)
49C|G/U8815)
ae sald) MO}|OA/OUUM

=
Engine coolant
temperature Oxygen Ignition pulse Starter
sensor sensor earth Regulator/rectifier generator motor 47020

SH125/150 2005 to 2008

10°36 Wiring diagrams

Fuse box Turn signal Cooling fan Main

—- = relay relay relay

5
z o io)
rift
DODD
a
DOD
“|
gE 1
see
&
5588
=
gga
270
5 3 oe
= =|

Instrument
cluster

pey/oeig
use}
yoR|g

488 0 Os oe
SEER sce sees

i=
RH sidelight

Front right ;
turn signal (4:

Headlight

Front left
turn signal

LH sidelight

Green
ent @©— Lt. Green

usa)
umoig
OYUM/MOI|2A
==
=

“ : Fuel level Engine

47021 Tum signal switch Dimmerswitch Fuelpump sensor cone fan

SH125/150 2009-on
 Wiring diagrams 10°37

Fuel cut-off Ignition coil and Engine management ECU/throttle body

relay spark plug

7 2 22.813 29 14 19, 16 26 20 9
21 25 31 28; § 28.30 16> 24° 12
‘ee ta okey Lhe UOTE PETIT REG

2288
55 88§ 28:
= &&E aS
ECS Teri
STETrL
re
eee
238505
o naw o> 2 aa
wy
bp = = =
at se@ Do -esO0
exrcSar pole)
P9O5 o22. | oO
2 Ben a eo 3 oRcame oFOS am oo
caves ie| 13 = : ee ee
©
| @O f [ q
. a) L
\ ae
.

I
ka

i
a a H | ba

Tae
5 |
: ti |
a in.

|
tL}
| | al
Ba | id

| hi a i i if a
| 0 F
q \
W SS a a |
: 8) Orange/White
i : Bown Data link

2. i Rarer
ae Te
We Fe es U ‘ oh nrr np Se tel Walte
clack cg
LJ 4 a

f baci Pink/Blue a ae
Re Black/White pene
a : it | a | . a es Sf wl :

ee em A : Black/White Joint
cee Black/White

|mone |prem Pink PAIR control

4 reece |fece Black/Whi ie solenoid valve

Rear right
tum signal

Lt.Blue =a
a Greer/Yellow = eon ane,
Black/Brown brake light
Green
Orange
Rear left
tum signal

Black/Brown Licence
Green plate light

ht : - iai
a

=
{|
LU! =

Starter relay
and main fuse

ty} Ly

B ||@ fo)
2 ||8 g zul g=
9S
F =e}
23 @
g= g
3
28
D és
oo
yy
yor|g/usalD
US2I5)
eniay) yoelg
e6ueICyoelg SBUBIO/UBEI5)
ao x ox ==

anja/pey MO||EAVEUUM

a: al
PSY/MO||9,,
saa
aGuEiC/UsaI5 anjg/usai5 yoe|g
am SUM YOP|G/USC/5
4OL|G/U98I5)
sues

peste: @BULIO/UBEIE)
MOl|9A
==
A/c]
YU
HN,
AR
INO,
ee
ae
se
armen
semen fomee
KONC)
wwcmniees
srmace

Engine coolant
Lean angle temperature Oxygen Ignition pulse
Alarm Regulator/rectifier generator 47022
connector sensor sensor sensor

$H125/150 2009-on
10°38 Wiring diagrams

Fuse box Turn signal Cooling fan

as relay relay

<@ oO DOD WOOD woOD

2g a Dg ceopap @ f QeR
ae te ene, eae
(eo) ®o Qo Q

ae2 °
g
5
5) 2]2
Instrument |
—— wpDODODOD
puede as abe
cluster
— x
Green | 8 3 & Ss oy é ha
Black a] B ‘RX 2
(0) ocdg 9
foe g
oO 9
Green a 2 | :
Black a ce ls :
Green % le :
Black | é
pact Grey/Black svamipjennlies zB oie) s

= Yellow/White == - 2a anes
Black | nee 68 0
Greer/Blue aE
Green/Black
0 Sareea ¥
::

tf
Lt.Blue
ass
eee
— ae
f:
: --
=——
Blue Ir i
:
ii

oi it F
= White/Blue sel K}>

t
7
i 82g
8
FODRODE®D

RH sidelight
Black/Brown =a |
Front right / Green ssmnnacosanns|
turn signal \-
Lt.Blue

ao ~ Blue SE!
EP
Oe
0©
Green sstemmesasanaces

Front left /
turn signal

LH sidelight

Nn
em)

FA Eo) TH
a@ oO
28
5 Og = Qo
S22
g
Passing
gs 38 g8
Horn awitcs cel switch

Rear brake

Oo)
lightswitch yoe|q/Aasd
ER
ME
ae
MS
mA
INE ome

Fuel level Engine

47023 Tum signal switch Dimmerswitch Fuel pump — sensor cooling fan

SH125/150-D 2009-on
 iring d iagrams 10°39

Fuel cut-off Ignition coil and Engine management ECU/throttle body

relay spark plug

fees

Yellow/Blue
a
$2
w & 26

2° E Yellow
~
8

White
™ fame @

&

a -Yellow/Red
mt

2 E White/Yellow
osBlack/White

jm Green/Pink 2
Brown/Black Green/Orange

3 Black/White
Pirnk/ Black/White
Black/White

Yellow/Blue =

White/Blue
Brown White:

Black
&Pink
pm
wee

=Green
S
Red/Blue
Black/Blue
a see |&
Black/Orange
=
=m

==
Brown/Black

eecena
==

A
2

senses
ieee
ee

Data link
connector
Wl

4
fe

| Fuel injector

SOK Re RRL SER REE“ ee ee Re st em ae

Joint

PAIR control
solenoid valve
‘

ra Green/Yellow
Tail and
Black/Brown brake light
Ps - my

?
fie S ; i
ie 4l
i; ee
i

i
.
a

Black/Brown Licence
plate light

mare|
ee
“
name

em
ae I
a
SS BPSe

fe
SS

iH art
=

Fe
ieee
Lt.Green/Black

RTs al
]

ES
a

ag
RA

fe
s |TT
p

a5
"os
ame Yellow/Red «===

ds
e's ee

Bo
=
AA

White/Yellow
1
OR SR RE

Green/Pink 8
Greern/Orange
Black/Orang¢

Red/White
Black/White

Green

Green Green Yellow

Black
or
Lt.Blue
—

White
Gen

Black

A
RE ee se aE Tete ee: Pink/White mx

538
aiebirs
ame
TES

3
|

Green/Pink
snatcheiae
Green/Orange

Red/White
Green/Black
Yellow/Red

Green
Greer/Blue

=
Red/Blue

Yellow
ees Grey wines)

Green Green Yellow

Green Yellow Yellow
Black
White
White
Black
Black

Black YellowYellow White/Yellow

Yellow

\»
|)
28 5
oS
Ep
g ag

Qc
883

5 Fiz 5 8 = & Ignition pulse

§3
Bs

55
3a

ao
“8
3:

2&
ee

generator
gs
©

H47024
AS

$H125/150-D 2009-on
 10°40 Wiring diagrams

Turn signal Cooling fan Main

relay relay relay

rrr it Le Tt

en
28 * eg esa
DOO
&
S58
W8HBWD
ceed
DHOHDV

ae eae
z
a 5
g5 g
3 Pis[8
) = x
= =
Instrument |i ——S
Green i "
Black | GEi 2
Green a
Black Red
Green a a Black/Red
Black | Lt.Green/Black
Grey/Black rms ae mE eo
= Yellow/White = Lt = 4
Black | i
[Sane
Green/Black
GiREAR
4
Black —

i
ad
1

p= Green/Yellow
Black/Brown

Front right “ Lt.Blue

turn signal
ig) 3S
G e : = i)

#1

Headlight Els
White 2
a ::

eed A a8
B is a

5
sidetom (J| akg GC ihl
an
: LJ
Front left
turn signal i

ie
RES
PA

MO|[9A/USAID SYUM/MO}|OA
OR|G/US8215)
Passing
yoerlg
usaeBueIO/PeY used
yor
switch

YOR|/AQIC)
emmccrrmmmenismes:
wamnvcamen

47028 Fuel level Lean angle Engine

Fuel pump sensor sensor cooling fan

PS125/150
 Wiring diagrams 10¢41

Fuel cut-off |Engine stop Ignition coil and Engine management ECU/throttle body
relay relay spark plug : -
ET

15
L
$co PR
$2969
5388
BND
Cy Fi
DIOD
BBD
902906
Sas
a
H G

=
D <
» &
eh
$s
y
12

SDDSVOVSOOKS
SPeSRsE
62s =
g5e8ss
Sag
a8 33
Ee:
8
DW
OVID
Os 5 a5
Sab elee
a5
21

se POrerzOg ||PEW ss
Se
Bes [3]28 | éUe s° TTPHSSe alee z
Oo wa el i i

iy!
I
I
rida
:
I
I Data link
i connector

a rr 4 |

Pink/Blue aeeseme (ee S

Black/White cman E Fuel injector

: PAIR control
| solenoid valve

Rear right
tum signal

Lt.Blue
ae
|e |
Green/Yellow = ,
Tail and
oO brake light
Green
= Orange

4 Rear left
|| === White/Yellow > tum signal
= Yellow ==

| Starter relay
- | and main fuse

SHUM

SHUMPRIG MO|lEA/SUM
=
ebueioppeig

Ulq/USEI5)
usar user)
/U9915)
OE)
OC|G/U00/5)
EEE ypeld
MO||@A/OUUM
=

Engine coolant
Oxygen
i= Frame
‘
Ignition pulse Starter
ee etae sensor earth Regulator/rectifier Alternator generator motor 447029

PS125/150
 10°42 Wiring diagrams

Starterswitch Ignition switch

[FREE] | | O07]
[PUSH] Ompeo |

Instrument
cluster

peywpeig
peyenig yoe|g/poy
Pey/ueaid) euuwvenig
umagpjorlg
MO||eA/UeeID
P8Y/MO||eA
=

Lt.Green/Black
White/Blue ==—s7—sr
Black/Brown
cm Grey/Black eee We ct dee ee cee a ee, ee ee ee ee ee
Green/Blue

Yellow/Red ===
Lt.Blue
Orange
Blue

Front right
turn signal

RH headlight
high beam

Blue
LH. White
low beam Green
C
Black/Brown

Sidelight

iBwe
mesS
Ale
ig
Sidelight

Front left
turn signal \

Green
Lt. Green

usa) yoe|g uee/5

Hom switch umoig/yoelg OB YUld/Ue215

|g/UBEID)

Rear brake
light switch

Limit switch

H47030 Turn signal relay

iD
a

Pantheon 125/150

uf
——w
>
 Wiring diagrams 10°43

pela coiland Engine stop Main Fuel cut-off Cooling fan Engine cooling Lean angle Engine management ECU/throttle
iesplug
body
relay relay relay relay ~ fan sd pata ed a

oT
wo
a &
ooDI rorirrr
BS D ag KS
i
DP
a
DOOD i
oOo
ooL
& ®
at
ow
DE
@©@WD
D
es
OWO<X<SOOTVHWUD<K
OS ee
ee ee
ee eo
ee
ouo
ee
Wee35 ee Ose
= aie
[ris ffs
33 oyeo x6 gsog
s sasa5,s0sear0eeseeesss
Hae) Ss ie) (2)
=ss iS ete saa 152
testsaxs Q oO
5A | s So2 2 hed ce ee eae 8 iGI
= oO Zs x = oO OPREGSPTHSS PSiaollz =

LJ
i 33 |
I i l om ite
| Brown Data link
| a Black/white connector
Green

Lt.Green
Luggage
box light
Lt.Green/Black

Black/Yellow
Green

Green/Yellow Tail and

brake fights
Green/Yellow

Rear left
tum signal

Licence
ie T ars
ne Co en
(Ste end asm iit iE
, PDH =oy
@DS0D
, l
pze &8 |:
sat Starter relay
: | og | : al | i and main fuse
| ||| f a
I i 33 a x
i
it a8 I LI

HelIIl HIM
hy

at en|g/ueeid
eBueio/susaid
ote

yorig/ueal5SUM
P8Y/MO}|9A
=
cress
yoelg MO}
SYUNV/PSY MO||8A
= |
MOIJOA
ea
ss
a0
MO|jeA
==
5
3
2
MOIRA
=
wn
KAI
sana
Ulc]
mame
wana

Speed Oxygen ‘ih

|
57) Ignition pulse tl2
gpoche
Fuel Jevel Engine coolant Bree
temperature sensor sensor sensor Regulator/rectifier |Altemator generator
aie ae
switch Fuelpump sensor

Pantheon 125/150
 10°44 Wiring diagrams ;

Turn signal relay Starterswitch — Front brake

light switch

|
ge gro)
fe]
E28
o

Qe g = g
5 | =
Instrument i a

ggape
cluster

g
MO||eA/PeY
2 2 uMaIg
ORIG
MO||EA/POY
MO||EA/9R|G
cece
2 = = a

Lt.Green/Black
pews Lt. Blue :
| ‘e=:
a.
g

F=8 White/Blue =e H rr eo ———

f= Brown/White nw ( cI ia oie - = rE

Blue/Black
ripe = : in acetll Ei
aS i te i as

Resco
AAs
—et | |
awe © SEE MD Ses REET
El
Se pe
eqeI mS He AN Men rT GD
Sere —
== Yellow/Red === qae i . VV
=

Front right a
tum signal a

RH headlight :
bad eg! Q : |

Lt. Blue aS
Blue/Black
LH White
low beam Green/Black

m= eeFI Te
= s “Se ee eet ee
Black/Brown SS aa

Orange
Sidelight ier Wig

Sidelight

Front left eR
turn signal G |

Rear brake
light switch

Limit switch

47032 i n ql i Sengor

S-wing 125/150

=—
 Wiring diagrams 10°45

Ignition coiland _Engine stop Main Fuel cut-off Cooling fan Engine cooling Lean angle Engine management ECU/throttle body
spark plug relay relay relay relay fan sensor

Eee 9 EO TO Te jase MO
== =o Te Ra
TiTt rrr Privy frit a os)
am eeae a
>DWAOD
> > DDOD
© 0 ® DOOD
aE Ge Doo
—- > & [eoo)
iy g ©D5 DOXxSWDDOOVOa
poesgecstast DSHOKXSOBOVU
sae Sas IO
d
RRS BERGE
Dax
Bese
Sa>
SRRR
ss
BR EHR EGos
SECS
age eeRSsosg
s
2ASSIETSE
hazed
a gs
D om w O>susocgy O||s < Qe
= te} fo} ee) S PoawaPsetuysoC CX S05
2 ‘hs S228 =® 6 TP@FSTLAATI S @ || Sloss
® ®oQ Q° 1 F ia o |= 2. ys fs@

a Data link
j connector

i i
4
a
4
;
* Pink/Blue * _ Fuel
| Black/White injector

_ = os = : _ ss — 2 es SS
Ss a ia re a
tii j
Orange/Black
PAIR
control
Black/White solenoid
2 valve

Luggage
Pa box light
r Lt.Green putes:

: Luggage
Lt.Green box light
i ncdenes
fe Lt.Green/Black
leat Green
3 } : Black
‘ r mcm: Green/Yellow
3 5
= Black/Yellow Accessary
i bl Green socket

Rear night
ai | | tum signal

: Lt.Blue
i Gree) Ey
Black/Brown sms
i Greer/Yellow =| Tail and
brake lights
Greer/Yellow = ]

i
i Rear left
Kbaglede,

= = — er = = = = 7 = Lic

ee eet
ee [aio
ee ee

| ss g Sse
i oF fo}
is are) S
opse FPe > ||z8
ms 3p

e =a i
i 8& o a * g |hae
id = [=== Yellow , j
2 5 Starter relay
| x Yellow == and main fuse
q j= Yellow ==
i epee |G
i aoe ore
a 219 =
QI
2 @ Do W® 8 7 a =
$8 g z PTT “< Ae Me
Sh ee @) ae) oFoaa S Ques DOEES ooo es Battery
Pa us San oe gB822 289999 ooo S90
88538 82 528 36 2OQss FAQS228 Sess! a =a=

a i
Pe |
Fuel level Engine coolant Oxygen y es ¥ Ignition pulse Starter
: ie
es preheee Fuelpump sensor temperature sensor sensor — Regulator/rectifier | Alternator generator notor, H47033

S-wing 125/150
 10°46 Wiring diagrams

Turn signal relay Fuse box

= QDD®
$8 gs
soo
8 3
rel Te
Theater |it
Inst
53 |
j
25
toy

Instrument J
itumination CS
a2 5
Pointer ere
RH turn signal ® $S 5
licator ary
LH turn signal °
g = a
indicator é ~

TT)

i
A ne a he Be
Hd Lt.Green/Black EE a Ee Pe Es ee

n
2 jews Lt.Blue =
43 =» White/Blue =a
4 ie Brown/White

tH BITgi
===

Bithl
6 Orange
H7 Blue/Black

AIIM,
8 ~Black/Brown
Tachometer(- ) 7 9 Blue/Yellow m:msammers 7] SS SS
ae 10} Green/Black I a ee Gs me
ic H tbeGrey/Black(a = eee
Teint
1 12a: Green/Blue ees ee
i a

I]
[= Yellow/Red

ae |

Front right /
turn signal \_ :
!

RH headlight
high beam i H

Lt. Blue
A
Blue/Black
i
White
ae
low beam
Sel deets gs
NEE OS en ee ‘ eee eee oe
Black/Brown ee ee gS
Seen
Orange POE ERT Se .

pe
Hs

PBR ae
eats Prien [ojUd a ane |EMeai
Ee i
Front left
turn signal —s ceil
ina
L]

po) i ae
“7 |

i ee ee ee,
Front wheel
speed sensor a 6

Blue [sso sms A

White | a ah
hili a)
ABS service | A bl =
connector 5 . G)
a = 8 1% : g

Passing switch DoD i Qfwa

3 ae g 2 UG

7
light switch
3g 525858
3 53 Pye ® :wk
,
QO®D ae
o8o 2 ==
SSEBREQE
eee 7Litntatt &
g gg g g
101 7
5 oe
ill
nee ; ‘ ABS Rear wheel
Dimmer switch
modulator
Speed
Speed sensor scnone

S-wing 125/150 with ABS

e
 iring d iagrams 10°47

Ignition coiland En. gine stop Main Fuel cut-off Cooling fan Engine cooling Lean angle Engine management ECU/throttle body
spark plug relay relay relay relay fan sensor

a
Blue/Yellow
=e
f=

pa ©
==

O foe Crarna/Piocks
§ = Green/Pink *
jm Black
j= Black

tat Black/White

p= Black/White
i= Black/White
Red/Black Brown/Black

= Black/White
Black/Blue Red/Orange

= Black/Orange

E Yellow =
k= Brown/White

Ea Green/White
= White/Blue ss

= Orange/White
Black/White
Yellow/Blue

White
Black/Blue
Red
j= Blue
f=
Green
pes
Brown
Black
m= Black Black
Green &Brown
@

Red/Yellow p=
Black/White Green/Pink
=
||
Green
Red/Orange
ja

= Brown/Black
m= Pink/White
=es

Green/Black
j=
Pink/Blue
sme
ee
===

FWhite/Yellow
Green/Orange
ov#

Bee
Data link
connector

ar

eee ee
as
ome
Yellow/Blue
=

s
es # Pink/Blue sve Fuel
Black/White injector

PAIR
oe Orange/Black control
Black/White solenoid
valve

Luggage
box light
switch

Luggage
swe Lt.Green box light
Lt.Green/Black

ry Lt.Green/Black

Black
eneaaemeame: Green/Yellow
cS

ais Black/Yellow
Green
Accessary
socket
A,
A

Black/Brown sma
Green/Yellow Tail and
brake lights
Green/Yellow = |
Black/Brown ===

Rear left
tum signal

= sia
Bs
i — Licence
plate light

OFS a el Bg
=
2 LR

Yellow
White/Yellow Beco

Green/White 3
Blac!
Red
TE

= Black/Orange ===
ee

White
WHOA SEAR eee

Yellow
j=
Black/White
Yellow osmo]rsBofc302) ®
Green/Orange Yellow
a!
||ai

a)
aE
Black

= Yellow
= Yellow

Yellow

Green/Pink
m Green/Pink
ssa
Yellow

Fuel level Engine coolant Oxygen Ignition pulse Starter

Frame Side stand
earth switch Fuel pump sensor temperature sensor sensor Regulator/rectifier generator motor
H47035

S-wing 125/150 with ABS

10°48 Notes
 REFe1

Reference

Tools and Workshop Tips ... . REFe1

Conversion Factors ........ REFe16
Fault Finding.............. REFe17
(6 SOO Se Ea ee REFe25

Tools and Workshop Tips

Buying tools Manufacturer’s service tools Oil fitter adapters (4-stroke engines)
Oil drainer can or tray
A toolkit is a fundamental requirement for Inevitably certain tasks require the use of a Pump type oil can
servicing and repairing a scooter. Although service tool. Where possible an alter Grease gun
there will be an initial expense in building up native tool or method of approach is Straight-edge and steel! rule
enough tools for servicing, this will soon be recommended, but sometimes there is no
|_|] Continuity tester
offset by the savings made by doing the job option if personal injury or damage to the Battery charger
yourself. As experience and confidence grow, component is to be avoided. Where required, | Hydrometer (for battery specific gravity
additional tools can be added to enable the service tools are referred to in the relevant check)
repair and overhaul of the scooter. Many of procedure. [_] Anti-freeze tester (for liquid-cooled engines)
the specialist tools are expensive and not Service tools can usually only be
often used so it may be preferable to hire purchased from a scooter dealer and are
them, or for a group of friends or scooter club identified by a part number. Some of the
Repair and overhaul tools
to join in the purchase. commonly-used tools, such as rotor pullers, (] Torque wrench (small and mid-ranges)
As a tule, it is better to buy more are available in aftermarket form from mail- Conventional, plastic or soft-faced hammers
expensive, good quality tools. Cheaper tools order motorcycle tool and accessory Impact driver set
are likely to wear out faster and need to be suppliers. Vernier gauge
renewed more often, nullifying the original Circlip pliers (internal and external, or
saving. combination)
Maintenance and minor Set of cold chisels and punches
Warning: To avoid the risk of a Selection of pullers
poor quality tool breaking in use,
repair tools Breaker bars
causing injury or damage to the _] Set of flat-bladed screwdrivers
SI One-man brake bleeder kit
A component being worked on,
Set of Phillips head screwdrivers
Wire stripper and crimper tool
Combination open-end and ring spanners
always aim to purchase tools which meet the Multimeter (measures amps, volts and ohms)
Socket set (3/8 inch or 1/2 inch drive)
relevant national safety standards. Stroboscope (for dynamic timing checks)
Set of Allen keys or bits IO!
Hose clamp
The following lists of tools do not represent Set of Torx keys or bits
[| Clutch holding tool
the manufacturer’s service tools, but serve as Pliers, cutters and self-locking grips (Mole
a guide to help the owner decide which tools grips)
are needed for this level of work. In addition, Adjustable spanners Sspecialist tools
items such as an electric drill, hacksaw, files, C-spanners O Micrometers (extemal type)
soldering iron and a workbench equipped Tread depth gauge and tyre pressure gauge Telescoping gauges
with a vice, may be needed. Although not L] Cable oiler clamp Dial gauge
classed as tools, a selection of bolts, screws, Feeler gauges Stud extractor
nuts, washers and pieces of tubing always Screw extractor set
1 Spark plug gap measuring tool Bearing driver set
come in useful. Spark plug spanner or deep plug sockets
For more information about tools, refer to Wire brush and emery paper Valve spring compressor (4-stroke engines)
the Haynes Motorcycle Workshop Practice Calibrated syringe, measuring vessel and L] Piston pin drawbolt tool
Techbook (Bk. No. 3470). funnel Piston ring clamp
reFe2 TOOIS and Workshop Tips

1.1 Hydraulic motorcycle ramp 1.2 Use an approved can only for storing 1.3 A fire extinguisher, goggles, mask and
petrol (gasoline) protective gloves should be at hand in the
workshop
the workshop is ventilated to avoid a build-up What to do with old fluids
1 Workshop equipment and of fumes. This applies equally to fume build-
@ Old cleaning solvent, fuel, coolant and oils
facilities up when charging a battery. Do not smoke or
should not be poured down domestic drains
allow anyone else to smoke in the workshop.
or onto the ground. Package the fluid up in old
Fluids oil containers, label it accordingly, and take it
The workbench to a garage or disposal facility. Contact your
@ If you need to drain fuel from the tank, store
local authority for location of such sites.
@ Work is made much easier by raising the it in an approved container marked as suitable
scooter up on a ramp — components are much for the storage of petrol (gasoline) (see
more accessible if raised to waist level. The illustration 1.2). Do not store fuel in glass jars
hydraulic or pneumatic types seen in the or bottles. 2 Fasteners —
dealer’s workshop are a sound investment if @ Use proprietary engine degreasers or screws, bolts and nuts
you undertake a lot of repairs or overhauls solvents which have a high flash-point, such
(see illustration 1.1). as paraffin (kerosene), for cleaning off oil,
@ If raised off ground level, the scooter must grease and dirt — never use petrol (gasoline) for
be supported on the ramp to avoid it falling. cleaning. Wear rubber gloves when handling Fastener types and applications
Most ramps incorporate a front wheel locating solvent and engine degreaser. The fumes from Bolts and screws
clamp which can be adjusted to suit different certain solvents can be dangerous — always
@ Fastener head types are either of hexagonal,
diameter wheels. When tightening the clamp, work in a well-ventilated area.
Torx or splined design, with internal and external
take care not to mark the wheel rim or
Dust, eye and hand protection versions of each type (see illustrations 2.1
damage the tyre —- use wood blocks on each
and 2.2); splined head fasteners are not in
side to prevent this. @ Protect your lungs from inhalation of dust
common use on scooters. The conventional
particles by wearing a filtering mask over
Fumes and fire slotted or Phillips head design is used for certain
the nose and mouth. Many frictional
@ Refer to the Safety first! page at the screws. Bolt or screw length is always measured
materials still contain asbestos which is
beginning of the manual for full details. Make from the underside of the head to the end of the
dangerous to your health. Protect your
sure your workshop is equipped with a fire item (see illustration 2.11).
eyes from spouts of liquid and sprung
extinguisher suitable for fuel-related fires @ Certain fasteners on the scooter have a
components by wearing a pair of protective
(Class B fire — flammable liquids) — it is not tensile marking on their heads, the higher the
goggles (see illustration 1.3).
sufficient to have a water-filled extinguisher. marking the stronger the fastener. High tensile
@ Protect your hands from contact with
@ Always ensure adequate ventilation is fasteners generally carry a 10 or higher
solvents, fuel and oils by wearing rubber
available. Unless an exhaust gas extraction marking. Never replace a high tensile fastener
gloves. Alternatively apply a barrier cream to
system is available for use, ensure that the with one of a lower tensile strength.
your hands before starting work. If handling hot
engine is run outside of the workshop. components or fluids, wear suitable gloves to Washers (see illustration 2.3)
@ If working on the fuel system, make sure protect your hands from scalding and burns. @ Plain washers are used between a fastener

2.1 Internal hexagon/Allen (A), Torx (B) 2.2 External Torx (A), splined (B) and 2.3 Plain washer (A), penny washer (B),
and splined (C) fasteners, with hexagon (C) fasteners, with corresponding spring washer (C) and serrated washer (D)
corresponding bits sockets
 Tools and Workshop Tips reres

2.4 Plain nut (A), shouldered locknut (B), 2.5 Bend split pin (cotter pin) arms as 2.6 Bend split pin (cotter pin) arms as
nylon insert nut (C) and castellated nut (D) shown (arrows) to secure a castellated nut shown to secure a plain nut
head and a component to prevent damage to
the component or to spread the load when
torque is applied. Plain washers can also be
used as spacers or shims in certain
assemblies. Copper or aluminium plain
washers are often used as sealing washers on
drain plugs.
@ The split-ring spring washer works by
applying axial tension between the fastener
head and component. If flattened, it is
fatigued and must be renewed. If a plain (flat)
washer is used on the fastener, position the
spring washer between the fastener and the
plain washer. 2.7 Correct fitting of R-pin. Arrow 2.8 External stamped circlip (A), internal
@ Serrated star type washers dig into the indicates forward direction stamped circlip (B), machined circlip (C)
fastener and component faces, preventing and wire circlip (D)
loosening. They are often used on electrical
can be reused unless the tabs are damaged. next slot aligns with the hole - never
earth (ground) connections to the frame.
The shouldered type must be renewed every slacken the nut to align its slot.
@ Cone type washers (sometimes called
time it is disturbed. Circlips (see illustration 2.8)
Belleville) are conical and when tightened
@ Split pins (cotter pins) are used to lock a
apply axial tension between the fastener head @ Circlips (sometimes called snap-rings) are
castellated nut to a shaft or to prevent slackening
and component. They must be installed with used to retain components on a shaft or in a
of a plain nut. Common applications are wheel
the dished side against the component and housing and have corresponding external or
axles and brake torque arms. Because the split
often carry an OUTSIDE marking on their internal ears to permit removal. Parallel-sided
pin arms are deformed to lock around the nut a
outer face. If flattened, they are fatigued and (machined) circlips can be installed either way
new split pin must always be used on installation
must be renewed. round in their groove, whereas stamped
— always fit the correct size split pin which will fit
@ Tab washers are used to lock plain nuts or circlips (which have a chamfered edge on one
snugly in the shaft hole. Make sure the split pin
bolts on a shaft. A portion of the tab washer is face) must be installed with the chamfer
arms are correctly located around the nut (see
bent up hard against one flat of the nut or bolt facing away from the direction of thrust load
illustrations 2.5 and 2.6).
to prevent it loosening. Due to the tab washer (see illustration 2.9).
@ R-pins (shaped like the letter R), or slip pins as
being deformed in use, a new tab washer @ Always use circlip pliers to remove and
they are sometimes called, are sprung and can
should be used every time it is disturbed. install circlips; expand or compress them just
be reused if they are otherwise in good
@ Wave washers are used to take up endfloat enough to remove them. After installation,
condition. Always install R-pins with their closed
on a shaft. They provide light springing and rotate the circlip in its groove to ensure it is
end facing forwards (see illustration 2.7).
prevent excessive side-to-side play of a securely seated. If installing a circlip on a
Caution: If the castellated nut slots do not
component. Can be found on rocker arm splined shaft, always align its opening with a
align with the shaft hole after tightening to
shafts. shaft channel to ensure the circlip ends are
the torque setting, tighten the nut until the
well supported and unlikely to catch (see
Nuts and split pins
illustration 2.10).
@ Conventional plain nuts are usually six- @ Circlips can wear due to the thrust of
sided (see illustration 2.4). They are sized by components and become loose in their
THRUST LOAD
thread diameter and pitch. High tensile nuts el

carry a number on one end to denote their

tensile strength. THRUST WASHER
@ Self-locking nuts either have a nylon insert,
or two spring metal tabs, or a shoulder which
is staked into a groove in the shaft — their
advantage over conventional plain nuts is a
resistance to loosening due to vibration. The te
et SHARP EDGE
nylon insert type can be used a number of
times, but must be renewed when the friction CHAMFERED EDGE

of the nylon insert is reduced, ie when the nut

spins freely on the shaft. The spring tab type 2.9 Correct fitting of a stamped circlip 2.10 Align circlip opening with shaft channel
reFes TOOIS and Workshop Tips —

2.11 Fastener length (L), thread diameter (D), 2.12 Using a thread gauge to measure 2.13 A sharp tap on the head of a fastener
thread pitch (P) and head size (AF) pitch will often break free a corroded thread

grooves, with the subsequent danger of @ The threads of most fasteners are of the Depending on the location, you may be able to
becoming dislodged in operation. For this right-hand type, ie they are turned clockwise make up a Plasticine well around the fastener
reason, renewal is advised every time a circlip to tighten and anti-clockwise to loosen. The head and fill it with penetrating fluid.
is disturbed. reverse situation applies to left-hand thread @ If you are working on an engine internal
@ Wire circlips are commonly used as piston fasteners, which are turned anti-clockwise to component, corrosion will most likely not be a
pin retaining clips. If a removal tang is tighten and clockwise to loosen. Left-hand problem due to the well lubricated
provided, long-nosed pliers can be used to threads are used where rotation of a environment. However, components can be
dislodge them, otherwise careful use of a component might loosen a conventional right- very tight and an impact driver is a useful tool
small flat-bladed screwdriver is necessary. hand thread fastener. in freeing them (see illustration 2.14).
Wire circlips should be renewed every time AF size Thread diameter x pitch (mm) @ Where corrosion has occurred between
they are disturbed. 8mm M5 x 0.8 dissimilar metals (eg steel and aluminium
8mm M6 x 1.0 alloy), the application of heat to the fastener
Thread diameter and pitch 10mm = M6x 1.0 head will create a disproportionate expansion
@ Diameter of a male thread (screw, bolt or 12mm M8x 1.25
rate between the two metals and break the
stud) is the outside diameter of the threaded 14mm M10x 1.25
seizure caused by the corrosion. Whether
portion (see illustration 2.11). Most scooter 17mm = M12x 1.25
manufacturers use the ISO (International heat can be applied depends on the location
Standards Organisation) metric system of the fastener — any surrounding components
expressed in millimetres, eg M6 refers to a
Seized fasteners likely to be damaged must first be removed
6 mm diameter thread. Sizing is the same for ®@ Corrosion of external fasteners due to water (see illustration 2.15). Heat can be applied
nuts, except that the thread diameter is or reaction between two dissimilar metals can using a paint stripper heat gun or clothes iron,
measured across the valleys of the nut. occur over a period of time. It will build up or by immersing the component in boiling
@ Pitch is the distance between the peaks of the sooner in wet conditions or in countries where water — wear protective gloves to prevent
thread (see illustration 2.11). It is expressed in salt is used on the roads during the winter. If a scalding or burns to the hands.
millimetres, thus a common bolt size may be fastener is severely corroded it is likely that @ As a last resort, it is possible to use a
expressed as 6.0 x 1.0 mm (6 mm thread normal methods of removal will fail and result hammer and cold chisel to work the fastener
diameter and 1 mm pitch). Generally pitch in its head being ruined. When you attempt head unscrewed (see illustration 2.16). This
increases in proportion to thread diameter, removal, the fastener thread should be heard will damage the fastener, but more
although there are always exceptions. to crack free and unscrew easily — if it doesn’t, importantly extreme care must be taken not to
@ Thread diameter and pitch are related for stop there before damaging something. damage the surrounding component.
conventional fastener applications and the @ A smart tap on the head of the fastener will Caution: Remember that the component
accompanying table can be used as a guide. often succeed in breaking free corrosion being secured is generally of more value
Additionally, the AF (Across Flats), spanner or which has occurred in the threads (see than the bolt, nut or screw - when the
socket size dimension of the bolt or nut (see illustration 2.13). fastener is freed, do not unscrew it with
illustration 2.11) is linked to thread and pitch @An aerosol penetrating fluid (such as force, instead work the fastener back and
specification. Thread pitch can be measured WD-40) applied the night beforehand may work forth when resistance is felt to prevent
with a thread gauge (see illustration 2.12). its way down into the thread and ease removal. thread damage.

ae.
2.14 Using an impact driver to free a 2.15 Using heat to free a seized fastener 2.16 Using a hammer and chisel to free a
fastener
seized fastener
 Tools and Workshop Tips eres

} ’
2.18 Two nuts can be locked together to 2.19 When using a screw extractor, first
a broken crankcase stud unscrew a stud from a component drill a hole in the fastener...
Broken fasteners and damaged possible, but avoid leaving too small a wall doubt, entrust the work to an engineer.
heads thickness otherwise the extractor will merely ® Bolts and nuts with rounded corners cause
@ If the shank of a broken bolt or screw is force the fastener walls outwards wedging it the correct size spanner or socket to slip when
accessible you can grip it with self-locking in the casing thread. force is applied. Of the types of spanner/socket
grips. The knurled wheel type stud extractor @ If a spiral type extractor is used, thread it available always use a six-point type rather
tool or self-gripping stud puller tool is anti-clockwise into the fastener. As it is than an eight or twelve-point type — better grip
particularly useful for removing the long studs screwed in, it will grip the fastener and unscrew is obtained. Surface drive spanners grip the
which screw into the cylinder mouth surface it from the casing (see illustration 2.20). middle of the hex flats, rather than the corners,
of the crankcase or bolts and screws from Warning: Stud extractors are and are thus good in cases of damaged heads
which the head has broken off (see A very hard and may break off in (see illustration 2.21).
illustration 2.17). Studs can also be removed the fastener if care is not taken - @ Slotted-head or Phillips-head screws are
by locking two nuts together on the threaded ask an engineer about spark often damaged by the use of the wrong size
end of the stud and using a spanner on the erosion if this happens. screwdriver. Allen-head and Torx-head
lower nut (see illustration 2.18). screws are much less likely to sustain
@ If a taper type extractor is used, tap it into
damage. If enough of the screw head is
@ A bolt or screw which has broken off below the fastener so that it is firmly wedged in
exposed you can use a hacksaw to cut a slot
or level with the casing must be extracted place. Unscrew the extractor (anti-clockwise)
in its head and then use a conventional flat-
using a screw extractor set. Centre punch the to draw the fastener out.
bladed screwdriver to remove it. Alternatively
fastener to centralise the drill bit, then drill a @ Alternatively, the broken bolt/screw can be
use a hammer and cold chisel to tap the head
hole in the fastener (see illustration 2.19). drilled out and the hole retapped for an
of the fastener around to slacken it. Always
Select a drill bit which is approximately half to oversize bolt/screw or a diamond-section
replace damaged fasteners with new ones,
three-quarters the diameter of the fastener thread insert. It is essential that the drilling is
preferably Torx or Allen-head type.
and drill to a depth which will accommodate carried out squarely and to the correct depth,
the extractor. Use the largest size extractor otherwise the casing may be ruined - if in

A dab of valve grinding compound

2.20 ... then thread the extractor anti- 2.21 Comparison of surface drive ring between the screw head and screw-
clockwise into the fastener spanner (left) with 12-point type (right) driver tip will often give a good grip.

Thread repair
@ Threads (particularly those in aluminium
alloy components) can be damaged by
overtightening, being assembled with dirt in
the threads, or from a component working
loose and vibrating. Eventually the thread will
fail completely, and it will be impossible to
tighten the fastener.
@ |f a thread is damaged or clogged with old
locking compound it can be renovated with a
2.22 A thread repair tool being used to 2.23 A thread repair tool being used to thread repair tool (thread chaser) (see
correct an internal thread correct an external thread illustrations 2.22 and 2.23); special thread
reFes TOOIS and Workshop Tips |

Ca’ & mw 7s
2.24 Using a thread restorer file 2.25 Obtain a thread insert kit to suit the 2.26 To install a thread insert, first drill out
thread diameter and pitch required the original thread...

chasers are available for spark plug hole is a simple and effective method of renewing Thread locking and sealing
threads. The tool will not cut a new thread, but the thread and retaining the original size. A kit compounds -
clean and true the original thread. Make sure can be purchased which contains the tap,
@ Locking compounds are used in locations
that you use the correct diameter and pitch insert and installing tool (see illus-
where the fastener is prone to loosening due
tool. Similarly, external threads can be tration 2.25). Drill out the damaged thread
to vibration or on important safety-related
cleaned up with a die or a thread restorer file with the size drill specified (see illus-
items which might cause loss of control of the
(see illustration 2.24). tration 2.26). Carefully retap the thread (see
scooter if they fail. It is also used where
@ It is possible to drill out the old thread and illustration 2.27). Install the insert on the
important fasteners cannot be secured by
retap the component to the next thread size. installing tool and thread it slowly into place
other means such as lockwashers or split
This will work where there is enough using a light downward pressure (see
pins.
surrounding material and a new bolt or screw illustrations 2.28 and 2.29). When positioned
can be obtained. Sometimes, however, this is @ Before applying locking compound, make
between a 1/4 and 1/2 turn below the surface
not possible — such as where the bolt/screw sure that the threads (internal and external)
withdraw the installing tool and use the break-
passes through another component which are clean and dry with all old compound
off tool to press down on the tang, breaking it
must also be suitably modified, also in cases off (see illustration 2.30).
removed. Select a compound to suit the
where a spark plug or oil drain plug cannot be @ There are epoxy thread repair kits on the component being secured — a non-permanent
obtained in a larger diameter thread size. market which can rebuild stripped internal general locking and sealing type is suitable for
@ The diamond-section thread insert (often threads, although this repair should not be most applications, but a high strength type is
known by its popular trade name of Heli-Coil) used on high load-bearing components. needed for permanent fixing of studs in
castings. Apply a drop or two of the
compound to the first few threads of the
fastener, then thread it into place and tighten
to the specified torque. Do not apply
excessive thread locking compound
otherwise the thread may be damaged on
subsequent removal.
@ Certain fasteners are impregnated with a
dry film type coating of locking compound on
their threads. Always renew this type of
fastener if disturbed.
@ Anti-seize compounds, such as copper-
based greases, can be applied to protect
threads from seizure due to extreme heat and
corrosion. A common instance is spark plug
threads and exhaust system fasteners.

3 Measuring tools and gauges

Feeler gauges
@Feeler gauges (or blades) are used for
measuring small gaps and clearances (see
illustration 3.1). They can also be used to
measure endfloat (sideplay) of a component
on a shaft where access is not possible with a
dial gauge.
oe
@ Feeler gauge sets should be treated with
2.29 ...and thread into the 2.30 ... break off the tang when complete care and not bent or damaged. They are
component...
etched with their size on one face. Keep them
 Tools and Workshop Tips rere7
@ To use, first make sure that the item being
measured is clean. Place the anvil of the
micrometer (1) against the item and use the
thimble (2) to bring the spindle (3) lightly into
contact with the other side of the item (see
illustration 3.3). Don’t tighten the thimble
down because this will damage the
micrometer — instead use the ratchet (4) on
the end of the micrometer. The ratchet
mechanism applies a measured force
preventing damage to the instrument.
@ The micrometer is read by referring to the
linear scale on the sleeve and the annular
3.1 Feeler gauges are used for measuring 3.2 Check micrometer calibration before scale on the thimble. Read off the sleeve first
small gaps and clearances - thickness is use to obtain the base measurement, then add the
marked on one face of gauge fine measurement from the thimble to obtain
clean and very lightly oiled to prevent the overall reading. The linear scale on the
@ Internal micrometers (or bore micrometers)
corrosion build-up. sleeve represents the measuring range of the
are used for measuring inside diameters, such
@ When measuring a clearance, select a gauge micrometer (eg 0 to 25 mm). The annular
as valve guides and cylinder bores.
which is a light sliding fit between the two scale on the thimble will be in graduations of
Telescoping gauges and small hole gauges
components. You may need to use two gauges 0.01 mm (or as marked on the frame) — one full
are used in conjunction with an external micro-
together to measure the clearance accurately. revolution of the thimble will move 0.5 mm on
meter, whereas the more expensive internal
the linear scale. Take the reading where the
micrometers have their own measuring device.
Micrometers datum line on the sleeve intersects the
@ A micrometer is a precision tool capable of External micrometer thimble’s scale. Always position the eye
measuring to 0.01 or 0.001 of a millimetre. It Note: The conventional analogue type directly above the scale otherwise an
should always be stored in its case and not in instrument is described. Although much easier inaccurate reading will result.
the general toolbox. It must be kept clean and to read, digital micrometers are considerably In the example shown the item measures
never dropped, otherwise its frame or more expensive. 2.95 mm (see illustration 3.4):
measuring anvils could be distorted resulting @ Always check the calibration of the Linear scale 2.00 mm
in inaccurate readings. micrometer before use. With the anvils closed Linear scale 0.50 mm
@ External micrometers are used for (0 to 25 mm type) or set over a test gauge (for Annular scale 0.45 mm
measuring outside diameters of components the larger types) the scale should read zero Total figure 2.95 mm
and have many more applications than (see illustration 3.2); make sure that the Most micrometers have a locking lever (6) on
internal micrometers. Micrometers are anvils (and test piece) are clean first. Any the frame to hold the setting in place, allowing
available in different size ranges, eg 0 to 25 discrepancy can be adjusted by referring to the item to be removed from the micrometer.
mm, 25 to 50 mm, and upwards in 25 mm the instructions supplied with the tool. @ Some micrometers have a vernier scale on
steps; some large micrometers have Remember that the micrometer is a precision their sleeve, providing an even finer
interchangeable anvils to allow a range of measuring tool — don’t force the anvils closed, measurement to be taken, in 0.001
measurements to be taken. Generally the use the ratchet (4) on the end of the increments of a millimetre. Take the sleeve
largest precision measurement you are likely micrometer to close it. In this way, a and thimble measurement as described
to take on a scooter is the piston diameter. measured force is always applied. above, then check which graduation on the
vernier scale aligns with that of the annular
scale on the thimble Note: The eye must be
perpendicular to the scale when taking the
vernier reading — if necessary rotate the body
of the micrometer to ensure this. Multiply the
vernier scale figure by 0.001 and add it to the
base and fine measurement figures.

3.3 Micrometer component parts boss

71 Anvil 3 Spindle 5 Frame 3.4 Micrometer reading of 2.95 mm

2 Thimble 4 Ratchet 6 Locking lever
rer*s TOOIS and Workshop Tips —

3.5 Micrometer reading of 46.99 mm on 3.6 ...and 0.004 mm on vernier scale 3.7 Expand the telescoping gauge in the
linear and annular scales... bore, lock its position...

3.8 ... then measure the gauge witha 3.9 Expand the small hole gauge in the 3.10 ... then measure the gauge witha
micrometer bore, lock its position... micrometer

In the example shown the item measures and unlikely to be available for home use. It is illustration 3.7). Measure across the gauge
46.994 mm (see illustrations 3.5 and 3.6): suggested that a set of telescoping gauges ends with a micrometer (see illustration 3.8).
Linear scale (base) 46.000 mm and small hole gauges, both of which must be @ Very small diameter bores (such as valve
Linear scale (base) 00.500 mm used with an external micrometer, will suffice guides) are measured with a small hole gauge.
Annular scale (fine) 00.490 mm for taking internal measurements on a scooter. Once adjusted to a slip-fit inside the
Vernier scale 00.004 mm @Telescoping gauges can be used to component, its position is locked and the
Total figure 46.994 mm measure internal diameters of components. gauge withdrawn for measurement with a
Select a gauge with the correct size range, micrometer (see illustrations 3.9 and 3.10).
Internal micrometer
make sure its ends are clean and insert it into
@ Internal micrometers are available for the bore. Expand the gauge, then lock its Vernier caliper
measuring bore diameters, but are expensive position and withdraw it from the bore (see Note: The conventional linear and dial gauge
type instruments are described. Digital types
are easier to read, but are far more expensive.
@ The vernier caliper does not provide the
precision of a micrometer, but is versatile in
being able to measure internal and external
diameters. Some types also incorporate a
depth gauge. It is ideal for measuring clutch
plate friction material and spring free lengths.
@ To use the conventional linear scale vernier,
slacken off the vernier clamp screws (1) and
set its jaws over (2), or inside (3), the item to
be measured (see illustration 3.11). Slide the
jaw into contact, using the thumb-wheel (4) for
fine movement of the sliding scale (5) then
tighten the clamp screws (1). Read off the
main scale (6) where the zero on the sliding
scale (5) intersects it, taking the whole number
to the left of the zero; this provides the base
measurement. View along the sliding scale
and select the division which lines up exactly
with any of the divisions on the main scale,
3.11 Vernier component parts (linear gau noting that the divisions usually represents
ge)
0.02 of a millimetre. Add this fine
71 Clamp screws 3 Internal jaws 5 Sliding scale 7 Depth gauge measurement to the base measurement to
2 . External jaws 4 Thumbwheel 6 Main scale obtain the total reading.
 Tools and Workshop Tips eres

if

3.12 Vernier gauge reading of 55.92 mm 3.14 Vernier gauge reading of 55.95 mm

In the example shown the item measures gauge reading as the amount of runout in the
55.92 mm (see illustration 3.12): shaft. Note: The reading obtained will be total
Base measurement 55.00 mm runout at that point - some manufacturers
Fine measurement 00.92 mm 3.13 Vernier component parts (dial gauge) specify that the runout figure is halved to
Total figure 55.92 mm compare with their specified runout limit.
@ Some vernier calipers are equipped with a 1 Clamp screw 5 Main scale
@ Endfloat (sideplay) measurement requires
2 External jaws 6 Sliding scale
dial gauge for fine measurement. Before use, that the gauge is mounted securely to the
3 Internal jaws 7 Dial gauge
check that the jaws are clean, then close them surrounding component with its probe
4 Thumbwheel
fully and check that the dial gauge reads zero. touching the end of the shaft. Using hand
If necessary adjust the gauge ring accordingly. pressure, push and pull on the shaft noting
set usually comes with a range of different
Slacken the vernier clamp screw (1) and set its the maximum endfloat recorded on the gauge
probes and adapters and mounting equipment.
jaws over (2), or inside (3), the item to be (see illustration 3.17).
@ The gauge needle must point to zero when
measured (see illustration 3.13). Slide the @ A dial gauge with suitable adapters can be
at rest. Rotate the ring around its periphery to
jaws into contact, using the thumbwheel (4) for used to determine piston position BTDC on
zero the gauge.
fine movement. Read off the main scale (5) two-stroke engines for the purposes of ignition
@ Check that the gauge is capable of reading
where the edge of the sliding scale (6) timing. The gauge, adapter and suitable length
the extent of movement in the work. Most
intersects it, taking the whole number to the probe are installed in the place of the spark
gauges have a small dial set in the face which
left of the zero; this provides the base plug and the gauge zeroed at TDC. If the
records whole millimetres of movement as well
measurement. Read off the needle position on piston position is specified as 1.14 mm BTDC,
as the fine scale around the face periphery
the dial gauge (7) scale to provide the fine which is calibrated in 0.01 mm divisions. Read rotate the engine back to 2.00 mm BTDC, then
measurement; each division represents 0.05 of off the small dial first to obtain the base slowly forwards to 1.14 mm BTDC.
a millimetre. Add this fine measurement to the measurement, then add the measurement
base measurement to obtain the total reading. from the fine scale to obtain the total reading.
In the example shown the item measures In the example shown the gauge reads
4 Torque and leverage
55.95 mm (see illustration 3.14): 1.48 mm (see illustration 3.15):
Base measurement 55.00 mm Base measurement 1.00 mm
Fine measurement 00.95 mm Fine measurement 0.48 mm
Total figure 55.95 mm Total figure 1.48 mm
What is torque?
@ If measuring shaft runout, the shaft must be
Dial gauge or DTI (Dial Test supported in vee-blocks and the gauge @ Torque describes the twisting force about a
Indicator) mounted on a stand perpendicular to the shaft. shaft. The amount of torque applied is
@A dial gauge can be used to accurately Rest the tip of the gauge against the centre of determined by the distance from the centre of
measure small amounts of movement. Typical the shaft and rotate the shaft slowly whilst the shaft to the end of the lever and the amount
uses are measuring shaft runout or shaft watching the gauge reading (see illustration of force being applied to the end of the lever;
endfloat (sideplay) and setting piston position 3.16). Take several measurements along the distance multiplied by force equals torque.
for ignition timing on two-strokes. A dial gauge length of the shaft and record the maximum @The manufacturer applies a measured

d ite ee ey heen be

3.15 Dial gauge reading of 1.48 mm 3.16 Using a dial gauge to measure shaft 3.17 Using a dial gauge to measure shaft
runout endfloat
rEFe10 TOOIS and Workshop Tips_

4.1 Set the torque wrench index mark to 4.2 Angle tightening can be accomplished
the setting required, in this case 12 Nm with a torque-angle gauge... surrounding component
torque to a bolt or nut to ensure that it will not circumstances and the manufacturer will take in the REVERSE of this, but if not, work from
slacken in use and to hold two components this into account in the specified torque figure. the outside in, in a criss-cross sequence (see
securely together without movement in the Similarly, the manufacturer may also specify illustration 4.4).
joint. The actual torque setting depends on the application of thread-locking compound.
the thread size, bolt or nut material and the @ Tighten the fasteners in the specified Tightening sequences
composition of the components being held. sequence until the torque wrench clicks, @ If a component is held by more than one
@ Too little torque may cause the fastener to indicating that the torque setting has been fastener it is important that the retaining
loosen due to vibration, whereas too much reached. Apply the torque again to double- bolts/nuts are tightened evenly to prevent
torque will distort the joint faces of the check the setting. Where different thread uneven stress build-up and distortion of sealing
component or cause the fastener to shear off. diameter fasteners secure the component, as faces. This is especially important on high-
Always stick to the specified torque setting. a rule tighten the larger diameter ones first. compression joints such as the cylinder head.
@ When the torque wrench has been finished @A sequence is usually provided by the
Using a torque wrench with, release the lock (where applicable) and manufacturer, either in a diagram or actually
@ Check the calibration of the torque wrench fully back off its setting to zero — do not leave marked in the casting. If not, always start in
and make sure it has a suitable range for the the torque wrench tensioned. Also, do not use the centre and work outwards in a criss-cross
job. Torque wrenches are available in Nm a torque wrench for slackening a fastener. pattern (see illustration 4.5). Start off by
(Newton-metres), kgf m (kilograms-force securing all bolts/nuts finger-tight, then set
metre), Ibf ft (pounds-feet), Ibf in (inch- Angle-tightening the torque wrench and tighten each fastener
pounds). Do not confuse ibf ft with Ibf in. @ Manufacturers often specify a figure in by a small amount in sequence until the final
@ Adjust the tool to the desired torque on the degrees for final tightening of a fastener. This torque is reached. By following this practice,
scale (see illustration 4.1). If your torque wrench usually follows tightening to a specific torque the joint will be held evenly and will not be
is not calibrated in the units specified, carefully setting. distorted. Important joints, such as the
convert the figure (see Conversion Factors). A @ A degree disc can be set and attached to cylinder head and big-end fasteners often
manufacturer sometimes gives a torque setting the socket (see illustration 4.2) or a have two- or three-stage torque settings.
as a range (8 to 10 Nm) rather than a single figure protractor can be used to mark the angle of
— in this case set the tool midway between the movement on the bolt/nut head and the Applying leverage
two settings. The same torque may be surrounding casting (see illustration 4.3). @ Use tools at the correct angle. Position a
expressed as 9 Nm + 1 Nm. Some torque socket wrench or spanner on the bolt/nut so
wrenches have a method of locking the setting Loosening sequences that you pull it towards you when loosening. If
so that it isn’t inadvertently altered during use. @ Where more than one bolt/nut secures a this can’t be done, push the spanner without
@ Install the bolts/nuts in their correct location component, loosen each fastener evenly a curling your fingers around it (see illus-
and secure them lightly. Their threads must be little at a time. In this way, not all the stress of tration 4.6) — the spanner may slip or the
clean and free of any old locking compound. the joint is held by one fastener and the fastener loosen suddenly, resulting in your
Unless specified the threads and flange should components are not likely to distort. fingers being crushed against a component.
be dry — oiled threads are necessary in certain @ If a tightening sequence is provided, work @ Additional leverage is gained by extending
the length of the lever. The best way to do this
is to use a breaker bar instead of the regular
length tool, or to slip a length of tubing over
the end of the spanner or socket wrench.
@ If additional leverage will not work, the
fastener head is either damaged or firmly
corroded in place (see Fasteners).

H28662 H29201

4.4 When slackening, work from the 4.5 When tightening, work from the inside 4.6 If you can’t pull on the spanner to loosen
outside inwards outwards a fastener, push with your hand open
 Tools and Workshop Tips rere11

* Ht
-

ee Sa e

5.1 Using a bearing driver against the 5.2 Using a large socket against the 5.3 This bearing puller clamps behind the
bearing’s outer race bearing’s outer race bearing and pressure is applied to the
shaft end to draw the bearing off
locate the puller behind a gear pinion if there @ Where a bearing locates in a blind hole in a
5 Bearings is no access to the race and draw the gear casing, it cannot be driven or pulled out as
pinion off the shaft as well (see illus- described above. A slide-hammer with knife-
tration 5.4). edged bearing puller attachment will be
Caution: Ensure that the puller’s centre required. The puller attachment passes
bolt locates securely against the end of the through the bearing and when tightened
Bearing removal and installation shaft and will not slip when pressure is expands to fit firmly behind the bearing (see
applied. Also ensure that puller does not illustration 5.6). By operating the slide-
Drivers and sockets
damage the shaft end. hammer part of the tool the bearing is jarred
® Before removing a bearing, always inspect out of its housing (see illustration 5.7).
@ Operate the puller so that its centre bolt
the casing to see which way it must be driven @ It is possible, if the bearing is of reasonable
exerts pressure on the shaft end and draws
out — some casings will have retaining plates weight, for it to drop out of its housing if the
the bearing off the shaft.
or a cast step. Also check for any identifying casing is heated as described opposite. If this
@ When installing the bearing on the shaft, tap
markings on the bearing and if installed to a method is attempted, first prepare a work
only on the bearing’s inner race — contact with
certain depth, measure this at this stage. surface which will enable the casing to be
the balls/rollers or outer race with destroy the
Some roller bearings are sealed on one side — tapped face down to help dislodge the
bearing. Use a socket or length of tubing as a
take note of the original fitted position. drift which fits over the shaft end (see bearing — a wood surface is ideal since it will
@ Bearings can be driven out of a casing illustration 5.5). not damage the casing’s gasket surface.
using a bearing driver tool (with the correct
size head) or a socket of the correct diameter.
Select the driver head or socket so that it
contacts the outer race of the bearing, not the
balls/rollers or inner race. Always support the
casing around the bearing housing with wood
blocks, otherwise there is a risk of fracture.
The bearing is driven out with a few blows on
the driver or socket from a heavy mallet.
Unless access is severely restricted (as with
wheel bearings), a pin-punch is not
recommended unless it is moved around the
bearing to keep it square in its housing.
@ The same equipment can be used to install
bearings. Make sure the bearing housing is 5.4 Where no access is available to the 5.5 When installing a bearing on a shaft
supported on wood blocks and line up the rear of the bearing, it is sometimes use a piece of tubing which bears only on
bearing in its housing. Fit the bearing as noted possible to draw off the adjacent the bearing’s inner race
on removal — generally they are installed with component
their marked side facing outwards. Tap the
bearing squarely into its housing using a
driver or socket which bears only on the
bearing’s outer race — contact with the
bearing balls/rollers or inner race will destroy
it (see illustrations 5.1 and 5.2).
@ Check that the bearing inner race and
balls/rollers rotate freely.
Pullers and slide-hammers
@ Where a bearing is pressed on a shaft a
puller will be required to extract it (see
illustration 5.3). Make sure that the puller
clamp or legs fit securely behind the bearing
and are unlikely to slip out. If pulling a bearing 5.6 Expand the 5.7 . . attach the slide hammer to the
off a gear shaft for example, you may have to locks behind the bearing . . bearing puller
reFs12 TOOIS and Workshop Tips
Bolt or length of threaded
bar
Nuts
Washer (external diameter
greater than tubing internal
diameter)
Tubing (internal diameter
sufficient to accommodate
bearing)
Suspension arm with bearing
Tubing (external diameter
slightly smaller than bearing)
5.8 Tapping a casing face down on wood Washer (external diameter
blocks can often dislodge a bearing slightly smaller than bearing)
Wearing protective gloves, tap the heated
5.9 Drawbolt component parts assembled on a suspension arm
casing several times against the work surface
to dislodge the bearing under its own weight
(see illustration 5.8). (such as a blow torch) — aluminium alloy has a
internal diameter larger than the bearing/bush,
@ Bearings can be installed in blind holes
another piece of tubing which has an external low melting point.
using the driver or socket method described
diameter slightly smaller than the bearing/ @ Approved methods of heating a casing are
above. i
bush, and a selection of washers (see using a domestic oven (heated to 100°C) or
Drawbolts illustrations 5.9 and 5.10). Note that the immersing the casing in boiling water (see
pieces of tubing must be of the same length, illustration 5.12). Low temperature range
@ Where a bearing or bush is set in the eye of a
or longer, than the bearing/bush. localised heat sources such as a paint stripper
component, such as a suspension linkage arm or
@ The same kit (without the pieces of tubing) heat gun or clothes iron can also be used (see
connecting rod small-end, removal by drift may
can be used to draw the new bearing/bush illustration 5.13). Alternatively, soak a rag in
damage the component. Furthermore, a rubber
back into place (see illustration 5.11). boiling water, wring it out and wrap it around
bushing in a shock absorber eye cannot
Temperature change the bearing housing.
successfully be driven out of position. If access is
Warning: All of these methods
available to a engineering press, the task is @ If the bearing’s outer race is a tight fit in the
require care in use to prevent
straightforward. If not, a drawbolt can be casing, the aluminium casing can be heated
scalding and burns to the hands.
fabricated to extract the bearing or bush. to release its grip on the bearing. Aluminium
Wear protective gloves when
@ To extract the bearing/bush you will need a will expand at a greater rate than the steel
handling hot components.
long bolt with nut (or piece of threaded bar bearing outer race. There are several ways to
@ If heating the whole casing note that plastic
with two nuts), a piece of tubing which has an do this, but avoid any localised extreme heat
components, such as the oil pressure switch,
may suffer —- remove them beforehand.
@ After heating, remove the bearing as
described above. You may find that the
expansion is sufficient for the bearing to fall
out of the casing under its own weight or with
a light tap on the driver or socket.
@ If necessary, the casing can be heated to
aid bearing installation, and this is sometimes
the recommended procedure if the scooter
manufacturer has designed the housing and
bearing fit with this intention.
@ Installation of bearings can be eased by
placing them in a freezer the night before
5.10 Drawing the bearing out of the 5.11 Installing a new bearing (1) in the installation. The steel bearing will contract
suspension arm suspension arm slightly, allowing easy insertion in its housing.
This is often useful when installing steering
head outer races in the frame.
Bearing types and markings
@ Plain bearings, ball bearings, needle roller
bearings and tapered roller bearings will all be
found on scooters (see illustrations 5.14 and
5.15). The ball and roller types are usually
caged between an inner and outer race, but
uncaged variations may be found.
@ Plain bearings are sometimes found at the
crankshaft main and connecting rod big-end
where they are good at coping with high
loads. They are made of a phosphor-bronze
5.12 A casing can be immersed in a sink 5.13 Using a localised heat source to aid material and are impregnated with self-
of boiling water to aid bearing removal bearing removal lubricating properties.
 Tools and Workshop Tips rere13

5.14 Bearings are either plain or grooved. 5.15 Tapered roller bearing (A), needle
They are usually identified by colour code roller bearing (B) and ball journal
(arrow) bearing (C)

FATIGUE FAILURE IMPROPER SEATING

CRATERS OR POCKETS BRIGHT.

(POLISHED) SECTIONS

SCRATCHED BY DIRT LACK OF OIL

DIRT EMBEDDED INTO OVERLAY WIPED OUT

BEARING MATERIAL
aia

5.18 Example of ball journal bearing with 5.19 Hold outer race and listen to inner

es
mee
EXCESSIVE WEAR TAPERED JOURNAL
damaged balls and cages race when spun

of dirt in the oil may embed in the bearing illustration 6.1). In the case of crankcase
OVERLAY WIPED OUT RADIUS RIDE material whereas larger particles will score the seals, check first that the seal is not lipped on
bearing and shaft journal. If a number of short the inside, preventing its removal with the
5.17 Typical bearing failures journeys are made, insufficient heat will be crankcases joined.
generated to drive off condensation which has @ New seals are usually installed with their
built up on the bearings. marked face (containing the seal reference
@ Ball bearings and needle roller bearings @ Ball and roller bearings will fail due to lack code) outwards and the spring side towards
consist of a steel inner and outer race with the of lubrication or damage to the balls or rollers. the fluid being retained. In certain cases, such
balls or rollers between the races. They require Tapered roller bearings can be damaged by as a two-stroke engine crankshaft seal, a
constant lubrication by oil or grease and are overloading them. Unless the bearing is double lipped seal may be used due to there
good at coping with axial loads. Tapered roller sealed on both sides, wash it in paraffin being fluid or gas on each side of the joint.
bearings consist of rollers set in a tapered (kerosene) to remove all old grease then allow @ Use a bearing driver or socket which bears
cage set on the inner race; the outer race is it to dry. Make a visual inspection looking to only on the outer hard edge of the seal to
separate. They are good at coping with axial dented balls or rollers, damaged cages and install it in the casing - tapping on the inner
loads and prevent movement along the shaft — worn or pitted races (see illustration 5.18). edge will damage the sealing lip.
a typical application is in the steering head. @ A ball bearing can be checked for wear by
@ Bearing manufacturers produce bearings to Oil seal types and markings
listening to it when spun. Apply a film of light oil
ISO size standards and stamp one face of the to the bearing and hold it close to the ear — hold @ Oil seals are usually of the single-lipped
bearing to indicate its internal and external the outer race with one hand and spin the inner type. Double-lipped seals are found where a
diameter, load capacity and type (see race with the other hand (see illustration 5.19). liquid or gas is on both sides of the joint.
illustration 5.16). The bearing should be almost silent when
@ Metal bushes are usually of phosphor- spun; if it grates or rattles it is worn.
bronze material. Rubber bushes are used in
suspension mounting eyes. Fibre bushes have
also been used in suspension pivots. 6 Oilseals

Bearing fault finding

@ If a bearing outer race has spun in its
housing, the housing material will be
damaged. You can use a bearing locking Oil seal removal and installation
compound to bond the outer race in place if @ Oil seals should be renewed every time a
damage is not too severe. component is dismantled. This is because the
@ Plain bearings will fail due to damage of seal lips will become set to the sealing surface
their working surface, as a result of lack of and will not necessarily reseal.
lubrication, corrosion or abrasive particles in @ Oil seals can be prised out of position using 6.1 Prise out oil seals with a large flat-
the oil (see illustration 5.17). Small particles a large flat-bladed screwdriver (see bladed screwdriver
rere14 TOOIS and Workshop Tips

6.2 These oil seal markings indicate 7.1 If a pry point is provided, apply gently 7.2 Tap around the joint with a soft-faced
inside diameter, outside diameter and seal pressure with a flat-bladed screwdriver mallet if necessary — don’t strike cooling fins
thickness
setting liquid gasket compounds can be used
@ Oil seals can harden and lose their sealing with a gasket or between a metal-to-metal
ability if the scooter has been in storage for a joint. Select the sealant to suit the application:
long period — renewal is the only solution. universal non-hardening sealant can be used
@ Oil seal manufacturers also conform to the on virtually all joints; semi-hardening on joint
ISO markings for seal size - these are faces which are rough or damaged; hard
moulded into the outer face of the seal (see setting sealant on joints which require a
illustration 6.2). permanent bond and are subjected to high
temperature and pressure. Note: Check first if
the paper gasket has a bead of sealant
7 Gaskets and sealants impregnated in its surface before applying
additional sealant.
@ When choosing a sealant, make sure it is
suitable for the application, particularly if
being applied in a high-temperature area or in Most components have one or two
Types of gasket and sealant the vicinity of fuel. Certain manufacturers hollow locating dowels between the
@ Gaskets are used to seal the mating surfaces produce sealants in either clear, silver or black two gasket faces. If a dowel cannot be
between components and keep lubricants, colours to match the finish of the engine. removed, do not resort to gripping it
fluids, vacuum or pressure contained within the @ Do not over-apply sealant. That which is with pliers — it will almost certainly be
assembly. Aluminium gaskets are sometimes squeezed out on the outside of the joint can distorted. Install a close-fitting socket
found at the cylinder joints, but most gaskets are be wiped off, whereas an excess of sealant on or Phillips screwdriver into the dowel
paper-based. If the mating surfaces of the the inside can break off and clog oilways. and then grip the outer edge of the
components being joined are undamaged the dowel to free it.
gasket can be installed dry, although a dab of Breaking a sealed joint
sealant or grease will be useful to hold it in place @ Age, heat, pressure and the use of hard Caution: If the joint will not separate,
during assembly. setting sealant can cause two components to double-check that you have removed all
@RTV (Room Temperature Vulcanising) stick together so tightly that they are difficult the fasteners.
silicone rubber sealants cure when exposed to separate using finger pressure alone. Do
to moisture in the atmosphere. These sealants not resort to using levers unless there is a pry Removal of old gasket and
are good at filling pits or irregular gasket point provided for this purpose (see sealant
faces, but will tend to be forced out of the illustration 7.1) or else the gasket surfaces @ Paper gaskets will most likely come away
joint under very high torque. They can be used will be damaged. complete, leaving only a few traces stuck on
to replace a paper gasket, but first make sure @ Use a soft-faced hammer (see illus- the sealing faces of the components. It is
that the width of the paper gasket is not tration 7.2) or a wood block and conventional imperative that all traces are removed to
essential to the shimming of internal hammer to strike the component near the ensure correct sealing of the new gasket.
components. RTV sealants should not be mating surface. Avoid hammering against @ Very carefully scrape all traces of gasket
used on components containing petrol cast extremities since they may break off. If away making sure that the sealing surfaces
(gasoline). this method fails, try using a wood wedge are not gouged or scored by the scraper (see
@ Non-hardening, semi-hardening and hard between the two components. illustrations 7.3, 7.4 and 7.5). Stubborn

7.3 Paper gaskets can be scraped off with 7.4 ...aknife blade... 7.5 ...0r a household scraper
a gasket scraper tool...
 Tools and Workshop Tips rereis
c) Two sockets placed each side of the hose
and held with straight-jawed self-locking
grips (see illustration 8.3).
d) Thick card each side of the hose held
between straight-jawed self-locking grips
(see illustration 8.4).

Freeing and fitting hoses

@ Always make sure the hose clamp is moved
well clear of the hose end. Grip the hose with
your hand and rotate it whilst pulling it off the
union. If the hose has hardened due to age and
7.6 Fine abrasive paper is wrapped around 7.7 A kitchen scourer can be used on will not move, slit it with a sharp knife and peel
a flat file to clean up the gasket face stubborn deposits its ends off the union (see illustration 8.5).
@ Resist the temptation to use grease or soap
deposits can be removed by spraying with an permanently distorted or damaged by the on the unions to aid installation; although it
aerosol gasket remover. Final preparation of clamp. helps the hose slip over the union it will
the gasket surface can be made with very fine a) A brake hose clamp available from auto equally aid the escape of fluid from the joint. It
abrasive paper or a plastic kitchen scourer accessory shops (see illustration 8.1). is preferable to soften the hose ends in hot
(see illustrations 7.6 and 7.7). b) A wingnut type hose clamp (see water and wet the inside surface of the hose
@ Old sealant can be scraped or peeled off illustration 8.2). with water or a fluid which will evaporate.
components, depending on the type originally
used. Note that gasket removal compounds
are available to avoid scraping the
components clean; make sure the gasket
remover suits the type of sealant used.

8 Hoses

Clamping to prevent flow

®@ Small-bore flexible hoses can be clamped
to prevent fluid flow whilst a component is
worked on. Whichever method is used, 8.1 Hoses can be clamped with an 8.2 ...a wingnut type hose clamp...
ensure that the hose material is not automotive brake hose clamp...

8.3 ... two sockets and a pair of self- 8.4 ... or thick card and self-locking grips 8.5 Cutting a coolant hose free witha
locking grips... sharp knife
REFe16 Conversion Factors
Length (distance)
Inches (in) x 25.4 Millimetres (mm) 0.0394 Inches (in)
Feet (ft) x 0.305 Metres (m) x<
x 3.281 Feet (ft)
Miles x 1.609 Kilometres (km) x 0.621 Miles

Volume (capacity)
Cubic inches (cu in; in’) 16.387 Cubic centimetres (cc; cm’) 0.061 Cubic inches (cu in; in’)
Imperial pints (imp pt) 0.568 Litres (I) 1.76 Imperial pints (Imp pt)
Imperial quarts (Imp qt) 1.137 Litres (I) Imperial quarts (Imp qt)
Imperial quarts (Imp qt) 1.201 US quarts (US qt) 0.833 Imperial quarts (Imp qt)
US quarts (US qt) 0.946 Litres (I) 1.057 US quarts (US qt)
Imperial gallons (Imp gal) 4.546 Litres (I) 0.22 Imperial gallons (Imp gal)
Imperial gallons (Imp gal) 1.201 US gallons (US gal) 0.833 Imperial gallons (Imp gal)
US gallons (US gal) x 3.785
K~
RK
KK
KKK Litres (I) x 0.264
xXx
XK
KK
KKK et US gallons (US gal)
ee
TC

Mass (weight)
Ounces (02) x 28.35 Grams (g) x 0.035 Ounces (02)
Pounds (Ib) 0.454 Kilograms (kg) x 2.205 Pounds (Ib)
Force
Ounces-force (ozf; oz) 0.278 Newtons (N) Ounces-force (ozf; 0z)
Pounds-force (Ibf; |b) 4.448 Newtons (N) x 0.225 Pounds-force (Ibf; Ib)
Newtons (N) 0.1 Kilograms-force (kgf; kg) Newtons (N)
Pressure
Pounds-force per square inch 0.070 Kilograms-force per square X 14.223 = Pounds-force per square inch
(psi; Ibf/in?; |b/in?) centimetre (kgf/cm?; kg/cm?) (psi; Ibf/in?; Ib/in?)
Pounds-force per square inch 0.068 Atmospheres (atm) x 14.696 = Pounds-force per square inch
(psi; Ibf/in?; Ib/in?) (psi; lbf/in?; Ib/in?)
Pounds-force per square inch 0.069 Bars 14S Pounds-force per square inch
(psi; Ibf/in?; !b/in?) (psi; Ibf/in?; Ib/in?)
Pounds-force per square inch 6.895 Kilopascals (kPa) x 0.145 = Pounds-force per square inch
(psi; Ibf/in?; Ib/in?) (psi; Ibf/in?; Ib/in?)
Kilopascals (kPa) 0.01 Kilograms-force per square xX 98.1 Kilopascals (kPa)
centimetre (kgf/cm?; kg/cm?)
Millibar (mbar) 100 Pascals (Pa) x 0.01 Millibar (mbar)
Millibar (mbar) *< 0.0145 Pounds-force per square inch x 68.947 Millibar (mbar)
(psi; Ibf/in?; Ib/in?)
Millibar (mbar) X 0.75 Millimetres of mercury (mmHg) x 1.333 Millibar (mbar)
Millibar (mbar) Xx 0.401 Inches of water (inH2O) x 2.491 Millibar (mbar)
Millimetres of mercury (mmHg) Xx 0.535 Inches of water (inH,O) x 1.868 Millimetres of mercury (mmHg)
Inches of water (inH,O) Xx 0.036 = Pounds-force per square inch x 27.68 = Inches of water (inH,O)
(psi; Ibf/in?; Ib/in?)
Torque (moment of force)
Pounds-force inches Xx 1.152 Kilograms-force centimetre x 0.868 = Pounds-force inches
(Ibf in; Ib in) (kgf cm; kg cm) (Ibf in; Ib in)
Pounds-force inches X 0.113 Newton metres (Nm) X08:85 8 = Pounds-force inches
(Ibf in; Ib in) (Ibf in; Ib in)
Pounds-force inches x 0.083 Pounds-force feet (bf ft; Ib ft) x 12 = Pounds-force inches
(Ibf in; Ib in) (Ibf in; Ib in)
Pounds-force feet (Ibf ft; Ib ft) Xx 0.138 Kilograms-force metres K238 "= Pounds-force feet (Ibf ft; Ib ft)
(kgf m; kg m)
Pounds-force feet (Ibf ft; Ib ft) Xx 1.356 Newton metres (Nm) x 0.738 Pounds-force feet (Ibf ft; Ib ft)
Newton metres (Nm) Xx 0.102 Kilograms-force metres x 9.804 1 Newton metres (Nm)
(kgf m; kg m)
Power
Horsepower (hp) 745.7 Watts (W) x 0.0013 = Horsepower (hp)
Velocity (speed)
Miles per hour (miles/hr; mph) 1.609 Kilometres per hour (km/hr; kph) x O62 = Miles per hour (miles/hr; mph)
Fuel consumption*
Miles per gallon (mpg) xX 0.354 Kilometres per litre (km/) Xe2. 6205 = Miles per gallon (mpg)
Temperature
Degrees Fahrenheit = (°C x 1.8) + 32 Degrees Celsius (Degrees Centigrade; °C) = (°F - 32) x 0.56
“It is common practice to convert from miles per gallon (mpg) to litres/100 kilometres (/100km),
where mpg x I/100 km = 282
 Fault Finding rere17

This Section provides an easy reference-guide to the more common of possible causes, starting with the simplest or most obvious and
faults that are likely to afflict your machine. Obviously, the progressing in stages to the most complex.
opportunities are almost limitless for faults to occur as a result of Take nothing for granted, but above all apply liberal quantities of
obscure failures, and to try and cover all eventualities would require a common sense.
book. Indeed, a number have been written on the subject. The main symptom of a fault is given in the text as a major heading
Successful troubleshooting is not a mysterious ‘black art’ but the below which are listed the various systems or areas which may contain
application of a bit of knowledge combined with a systematic and the fault. Details of each possible cause for a fault and the remedial
logical approach to the problem. Approach any troubleshooting by first action to be taken are given, in brief, in the paragraphs below each
accurately identifying the symptom and then checking through the list heading. Further information should be sought in the relevant Chapter.

1 Engine doesn’t start or is difficult to start 6 Abnormal engine noise

Starter motor doesn’t rotate Knocking or pinking
Starter motor rotates but engine does not turn over Piston slap or rattling
Starter works but engine won’t turn over (seized) Valve noise
No fuel flow Other noise
Engine flooded
eoNo spark or weak spark
[i 7 Abnormal frame and suspension noise
Compression low Front end noise
Stalls after starting Shock absorber noise
Rough idle Brake noise
Poor running at low speed
8 Excessive exhaust smoke
IISSpark weak
LIC) |_| White smoke
Fuel/air mixture incorrect
[_] Compression low Black smoke
Poor acceleration Brown smoke

3 Poor running or no power at high speed 9 Poor handling or stability

|_| Firing incorrect Handlebar hard to turn
|] Fuel/air mixture incorrect Handlebar shakes or vibrates excessively
_[] Compression low Handlebar pulls to one side
Knocking or pinking Poor shock absorbing qualities
Miscellaneous causes

4 Overheating 10Braking problems - disc brakes

[_] Engine overheats Brakes are ineffective
Firing incorrect Brake lever pulsates
Fuel/air mixture incorrect Brakes drag
Compression too high
Engine load excessive =, 1 Braking problems - drum brakes
Lubrication inadequate Brakes are ineffective
Miscellaneous causes Brake lever pulsates
Transmission problems |] Brakes drag

[Oj
[1mNo drive to rear wheel 12 Electrical problems
[| Vibration
[_] Poor performance Battery dead or weak
[] Clutch not disengaging nempltely Battery overcharged
reFeis Fault Finding
1 Engine doesn’t start or is difficult to start
Starter motor doesn’t rotate are worn, then the leaking will persist and the parts should be
renewed (Chapter 5).
Fuse blown. Check fuse and starter circuit (Chapter 10).
On fuel injection models the injector could be stuck open, or there
Battery voltage low. Check and recharge battery (Chapter 10).
could be too much pressure in the system. Check the injector first,
Starter motor defective. Make sure the wiring to the starter is
then check fuel pressure (Chapter 5B).
secure. Make sure the starter relay clicks when the start button is
pushed. If the relay clicks, then the fault is in the wiring or motor.
Starting technique incorrect. Under normal circumstances the
Starter relay faulty. Check it (Chapter 10). machine should start with no throttle, whatever the temperature.
ENG Starter button on handlebar not contacting. The contacts could be No spark or weak spark
wet, corroded or dirty. Disassemble and clean the switch
Battery voltage low. Check and recharge the battery as necessary
(Chapter 10).
Wiring open or shorted. Check all wiring connections and (Chapter 10).
harnesses to make sure that they are dry, tight and not corroded. Spark plug dirty, defective or worn out. Locate reason for fouled
Also check for broken or frayed wires that can cause a short to plug using spark plug condition chart at the end of this manual
earth. and follow the plug maintenance procedures (Chapter 1).
O Ignition switch defective. Check the switch according to the Spark plug cap or lead faulty. Check condition (Chapter 6).
procedure in Chapter 10. Renew the switch if it is defective. Spark plug cap not making good contact. Make sure that the plug
L Starter safety circuit fault. Check brake light switches and/or cap fits snugly over the plug end.
inhibitor switch (according to model) and wiring (Chapter 10). Electronic control unit (ECU) defective. Check the unit, referring to
Chapter 6 for details.
Starter motor rotates but engine does not turn Pulse generator coil defective. Check it, referring to Chapter 6 for
over
details.
Starter clutch defective. Inspect and repair or renew (Chapter 2). Ignition coil defective. Check the coil, referring to Chapter 6.
Damaged starter gears. Inspect and renew the damaged parts Wiring shorted or broken. Make sure that all wiring connections
(Chapter 2). are clean, dry and tight. Look for chafed and broken wires
Starter works but engine won’t turn over (seized) (Chapters 6 and 10).

O Seized engine caused by one or more internally damaged

components. Failure due to wear, abuse or lack of lubrication. Compression low
Damage can include piston, cylinder, connecting rod, crankshaft Spark plug loose (Chapter 1).
and bearings (Chapter 2). Cylinder head not sufficiently tightened down. If the cylinder head
No fuel flow - carburettor models is suspected of being loose, then there’s a chance that the gasket
or head is damaged if the problem has persisted for any length of
No fuel in tank.
time. The camshaft holder nuts should be tightened to the proper
Fuel hose pinched — check the hose and its routing.
torque in a criss-cross sequence (Chapter 2).
Fuel hose clogged. Remove the fuel hose and carefully blow
Cylinder and/or piston worn. Excessive wear will cause
through it.
compression pressure to leak past the rings. This is usually
Fuel tank vent in filler cap blocked. Clean and blow through or
accompanied by worn rings as well. A top-end overhaul is
replace with a new one.
necessary (Chapter 2).
Fuel filter clogged. Remove the tap and clean the filter.
Piston rings worn, weak, broken, or sticking. Broken or sticking
Fuel valve vacuum hose split or detached. Check the hose.
piston rings usually indicate a lubrication or fuelling problem that
Fuel valve diaphragm split. Renew the valve (Chapter 5A).
ey
fe
ees Causes excess carbon deposits to form on the pistons and rings.
Float needle valve or carburettor jets clogged. The carburettor
Top-end overhaul is necessary (Chapter 2).
should be removed and overhauled if draining the float chamber
doesn’t solve the problem. Piston ring-to-groove clearance excessive. This is caused
by excessive wear of the piston ring lands. Piston renewal is
No fuel flow - fuel injection models necessary (Chapter 2).
No fuel in tank. Cylinder head gasket damaged. If the head is allowed to become
Fuel tank vent in filler cap blocked. Clean and blow through or loose, or if excessive carbon build-up on the piston crown and
replace with a new one. combustion chamber causes extremely high compression, the
7 Fuel hose pinched — check the hose and its routing. head gasket may leak. Retorquing the head is not always sufficient
Fuel hose clogged. Remove the fuel hose and carefully blow to restore the seal, so gasket renewal is necessary (Chapter 2).
through it. Cylinder head warped. This is caused by overheating or
Fuel pump circuit fault - check all components in the circuit improperly tightened camshaft holder nuts. Machine shop
(Chapter 5B). resurfacing or head renewal is necessary (Chapter 2).
L Fuel pump defective — problems could include a faulty pump Incorrect valve clearance. If a valve is not closing completely then
motor, faulty pressure regulator or blocked filter. In all cases engine pressure will leak past the valve. Check and adjust the
replace the pump with a new one (Chapter 5B). valve clearances (Chapter 1).
Fuel injection system fault. See Chapter 5B. Valve not seating properly. This is caused by a bent valve (from
Over-revving or improper valve adjustment), burned valve or seat
m n gine flooded
(improper combustion) or an accumulation of carbon deposits
On carburettor models the float needle valve could be worn or on the seat (from combustion or lubrication problems). The
stuck open. A piece of dirt, rust or other debris can cause the valves must be cleaned and/or renewed and the seats serviced if
valve to seat improperly, causing excess fuel to be admitted to the possible (Chapter 2).
float chamber. In this case, the float chamber should be cleaned Valve spring broken or weak. Caused by component failure or
and the needle valve and seat inspected. If the needle and seat wear; the springs must be renewed (Chapter 2).
 Fault Finding rere19
1 Engine doesn’t start or is difficult to start (continued)
Stalls after starting - carburettor models Fuel contaminated. The fuel can be contaminated with either dirt
Faulty automatic choke unit (Chapter 5A). or water, or can change chemically if the machine is allowed to sit
Faulty idle air control valve (Chapter 5A). for several months or more. Drain the tank (Chapter 5B).
Carburettor fault (Chapter 5). Intake air leak. Check for loose throttle body-to-intake manifold
Ignition system fault (Chapter 6). connection (Chapter 5B).
OOOO0
Fuel contaminated. The fuel can be contaminated with either dirt Rough idle
or water, or can change chemically if the machine is allowed to
Ignition malfunction (Chapter 5).
sit for several months or more. Drain the tank and carburettor
Idle speed incorrect (Chapter 1).
(Chapter 5A).
Carburettor or fuel injection system fault (Chapter 5A or 5B).
|] Intake air leak. Check for loose carburettor-to-intake manifold
Fuel contaminated. The fuel can be contaminated with either dirt
connection, loose carburettor top (Chapter 5A).
or water, or can change chemically if the machine is allowed to
Stalls after starting - fuel injection modeis sit for several months or more. Drain the tank and fuel system
[_] Faulty idle air control valve - the valve is part of the throttle body components (Chapter 5).
(Chapter 5B). Intake air leak. Check for loose intake manifold connection
Ignition malfunction (Chapter 6). (Chapter 5A or 5B).
Fuel injection system fault (Chapter 5B). Air filter clogged. Clean or renew the air filter element (Chapter 1).

2 Poor running at low speeds

Spark weak or head is damaged if the problem has persisted for any length of
time. The camshaft holder nuts should be tightened to the proper
Battery voltage low. Check and recharge battery (Chapter 10).
torque in the correct sequence (Chapter 2).
Spark plug fouled, defective or worn out. Refer to Chapter 1 for
Cylinder and/or piston worn. Excessive wear will cause compression
spark plug maintenance.
pressure to leak past the rings. This is usually accompanied by worn
] Spark plug cap or HT wiring defective. Refer to Chapter 6 for
rings as well. A top-end overhaul is necessary (Chapter 2).
details on the ignition system.
Piston rings worn, weak, broken, or sticking. Broken or sticking
Spark plug cap not making contact.
piston rings usually indicate a lubrication or fuelling problem that
Incorrect spark plug. Wrong type, heat range or cap configuration. causes excess carbon deposits to form on the pistons and rings.
Check and install correct plug listed in Chapter 1. Top-end overhaul is necessary (Chapter 2).
Electronic control unit (ECU) defective (Chapter 6). Piston ring-to-groove clearance excessive. This is caused
Pulse generator coil defective (Chapter 6). by excessive wear of the piston ring lands. Piston renewal is
Ignition coil defective (Chapter 6). necessary (Chapter 2).
Fuel/air mixture incorrect - carburettor models Cylinder head gasket damaged. If the head is allowed to become
loose, or if excessive carbon build-up on the piston crown and
[] Faulty automatic choke unit (Chapter 5A). combustion chamber causes extremely high compression, the
_] Faulty idle air control valve (Chapter 5A). head gasket may leak. Retorquing the head is not always sufficient
[] Pilot screw out of adjustment (Chapter 5A). to restore the seal, so gasket renewal is necessary (Chapter 2).
Pilot jet or air passage clogged. Remove and clean the carburettor Cylinder head warped. This is caused by overheating or
(Chapter 5A). improperly tightened camshaft holder nuts. Machine shop
[] Air hole clogged. Remove carburettor and blow out all passages resurfacing or head renewal is necessary (Chapter 2).
(Chapter 5A). Incorrect valve clearance. If a valve is not closing completely then
Air filter clogged, poorly sealed or missing (Chapter 1). engine pressure will leak past the valve. Check and adjust the
Air filter housing poorly sealed. Look for cracks, holes or loose valve clearances (Chapter 1).
screws and renew or repair defective parts. Valve not seating properly. This is caused by a bent valve (from
Carburettor intake duct loose. Check for cracks, breaks, tears or over-revving or improper valve adjustment), burned valve or seat
loose fixings. (improper combustion) or an accumulation of carbon deposits
(] Fuel tank vent in filler cap blocked. Clean and blow through or on the seat (from combustion or lubrication problems). The
replace with a new one. valves must be cleaned and/or renewed and the seats serviced if
possible (Chapter 2).
Fuei/air mixture incorrect - fuel injection models Valve spring broken or weak. Caused by component failure or
(1) Fuel injector clogged or fuel injection system fault (see wear; the springs must be renewed (Chapter 2).
Chapter 5B).
Poor acceleration
C1 Air filter clogged, poorly sealed or missing (Chapter 1).
Air filter housing poorly sealed. Look for cracks, holes or loose Carburettor leaking or dirty. Overhaul the carburettor (Chapter 5A).
clamps and renew or repair defective parts. Faulty automatic choke unit or idle air control valve (Chapter 5A
Intake air leak. Check for loose throttle body-to-intake manifold or 5B).
connections or a leaking gasket (Chapter 5B). Fuel injection system fault (Chapter 5B).
Faulty idle air control valve (Chapter 5B). Timing not advancing. The pulse generator coil or the electronic
Fuel tank vent in filler cap blocked. Clean and blow through or control unit (ECU) may be defective (Chapter 6).
replace with a new one. Brakes dragging. On disc brakes, usually caused by debris which
has entered the brake piston seals, or from a warped disc or bent
Compression low axle, or cable out of adjustment where appropriate. On drum
[] Spark plug loose (Chapter 1). brakes, cable out of adjustment, shoe return spring broken. Repair
[] Cylinder head not sufficiently tightened down. If the cylinder head as necessary (Chapter 8).
Clutch slipping, drive belt worn, or variator faulty (Chapter 3).
is suspected of being loose, then there’s a chance that the gasket
reFe20 Fault Finding
3 Poor running or no power at high speed
Firing incorrect Piston ring-to-groove clearance excessive. This is caused
O Air filter clogged. Clean or renew filter (Chapter 1). by excessive wear of the piston ring lands. Piston renewal is
Spark plug fouled, defective or worn out (Chapter 1). necessary (Chapter 2).
Spark plug cap or HT lead defective. See Chapter 6 for details of Cylinder head gasket damaged. If the head is allowed to become
the ignition system. loose, or if excessive carbon build-up on the piston crown and
Spark plug cap not in good contact (Chapter 6). combustion chamber causes extremely high compression, the
Incorrect spark plug. Wrong type, heat range or cap configuration. head gasket may leak. Retorquing the head is not always sufficient
Check and install correct plug listed in Chapter 1. to restore the seal, so gasket renewal is necessary (Chapter 2).
Electronic control unit (ECU) or ignition coil defective (Chapter 6). Cylinder head warped. This is caused by overheating or
improperly tightened camshaft holder nuts. Machine shop
u el/air mixture incorrect - carburettor models
resurfacing or head renewal is necessary (Chapter 2).
Tl

Faulty automatic choke unit (Chapter 5A). Incorrect valve clearance. If a valve is not closing completely then
Faulty idle air control valve (Chapter 5A). engine pressure will leak past the valve. Check and adjust the
Pilot screw out of adjustment (Chapter 5A). valve clearances (Chapter 1).
Pilot jet or air passage clogged. Remove and clean the carburettor Valve not seating properly. This is caused by a bent valve (from
(Chapter 5A). over-revving or improper valve adjustment), burned valve or seat
O Air hole clogged. Remove carburettor and blow out all passages (improper combustion) or an accumulation of carbon deposits
(Chapter 5A).
on the seat (from combustion or lubrication problems). The
Air filter clogged, poorly sealed or missing (Chapter 1).
valves must be cleaned and/or renewed and the seats serviced if
OO Air filter housing poorly sealed. Look for cracks, holes or loose possible (Chapter 2).
screws and renew or repair defective parts.
Valve spring broken or weak. Caused by component failure or
Carburettor intake duct loose. Check for cracks, breaks, tears or
loose fixings. wear, the springs must be renewed (Chapter 2).
‘a Fuel tank vent in filler cap blocked. Clean and blow through or
replace with a new one.
Knocking or pinking
Carbon build-up in combustion chamber. Use of a fuel additive
Fu el/air mixture incorrect - fuel injection models
that will dissolve the adhesive bonding the carbon particles to the
Fuel injector clogged or fuel injection system fault (see Chapter crown and chamber is the easiest way to remove the build-up.
5B). Otherwise, the cylinder head will have to be removed and
Air filter clogged, poorly sealed or missing (Chapter 1). decarbonised (Chapter 2).
Air filter housing poorly sealed. Look for cracks, holes or loose Incorrect or poor quality fuel. Old or improper grades of fuel
clamps and renew or repair defective parts. can cause detonation. This causes the piston to rattle, thus the
Intake air leak. Check for loose throttle body-to-intake manifold
knocking or pinking sound. Drain old fuel and always use the
connections or a leaking gasket (Chapter 5B). recommended fuel grade.
Faulty idle air control valve (Chapter 5B). Spark plug heat range incorrect. Uncontrolled detonation indicates
OO Fuel tank vent in filler cap blocked. Clean and blow through or the plug heat range is too hot. The plug in effect becomes a glow
replace with a new one.
plug, raising cylinder temperatures. Install the proper heat range
plug (Chapter 1).
Compression low Improper air/fuel mixture. This will cause the cylinder to run
Spark plug loose (Chapter 1). hot, which leads to detonation. Clogged carburettor jets, a fuel
O Cylinder head not sufficiently tightened down. If the cylinder head injection system fault or an air leak can cause this imbalance
is suspected of being loose, then there’s a chance that the gasket (Chapter 5A or 5B).
or head is damaged if the problem has persisted for any length of
time. The camshaft holder nuts should be tightened to the proper Miscellaneous causes
torque in the correct sequence (Chapter 2). Throttle valve doesn’t open fully. Check the action of the twistgrip,
Cylinder and/or piston worn. Excessive wear will cause and check the cable for kinks and incorrect routing. Adjust the
compression pressure to leak past the rings. This is usually throttle twistgrip freeplay (Chapter 1).
accompanied by worn rings as well. A top-end overhaul is Clutch slipping, drive belt worn, or variator faulty (Chapter 3).
necessary (Chapter 2). Timing not advancing (Chapter 6).
Piston rings worn, weak, broken, or sticking. Broken or sticking Brakes dragging. On disc brakes, usually caused by debris which
piston rings usually indicate a lubrication or fuelling problem that has entered the brake piston seals, or froma warped disc or bent
causes excess carbon deposits to form on the pistons and rings. axle. On drum brakes, cable out of adjustment, shoe return
Top-end overhaul is necessary (Chapter 2). spring
broken. Repair as necessary (Chapter 8).
 Fault Finding rere21
4 Overheating
Cooling system fault Fuel/air mixture incorrect - fuel injection models
Coolant level low. Check and add coolant (Pre-ride checks).
Fuel injector clogged or fuel injection system fault (see
Leak in cooling system. Check cooling system hoses and radiator
Chapter 5B).
for leaks and other damage. Repair or renew parts as necessary
Air filter clogged, poorly sealed or missing (Chapter 1).
(Chapter 4).
Air filter housing poorly sealed. Look for cracks, holes or loose
Thermostat sticking open or closed (Chapter 4).
clamps and renew or repair defective parts.
Coolant passages clogged. Drain and flush the entire system, then
Intake air leak. Check for loose throttle body-to-intake manifold
refill with fresh coolant (Chapter 4).
connections or a leaking gasket (Chapter 5B).
Air lock in system — usually follows draining and refilling of the
Faulty idle air control valve (Chapter 5B).
system. If less than the specified amount of coolant could be
Fuel tank vent in filler cap blocked. Clean and blow through or
added when filling, drain the system again, then refill adding the
replace with a new one.
coolant slowly, and tip the scooter from side to side to dislodge
any trapped air (Chapter 4). Compression too high
Water pump defective. Remove the pump and check the
Carbon build-up in combustion chamber. Use of a fuel additive
components (Chapter 4).
that will dissolve the adhesive bonding the carbon particles to
Clogged radiator fins. Clean them by blowing compressed air
the piston crown and chamber is the easiest way to remove the
through the fins from the back of the radiator.
build-up. Otherwise, the cylinder head will have to be removed
Firing incorrect and cleaned (Chapter 2).
[| Air filter clogged. Clean or renew filter (Chapter 1).
Spark plug fouled, defective or worn out (Chapter 1).
Engine load excessive
Spark plug cap or HT lead defective. See Chapter 6 for details of Clutch slipping, drive belt worn, or variator faulty (Chapter 3).
the ignition system. Brakes dragging. On disc brakes, usually caused by debris which
Spark plug cap not in good contact (Chapter 6). has entered the brake piston seals, or from a warped disc or bent
Incorrect spark plug. Wrong type, heat range or cap configuration. axle. On drum brakes, cable out of adjustment, shoe return spring
Check and install correct plug listed in Chapter 1. broken. Repair as necessary (Chapter 8).
Electronic control unit (ECU) or ignition coil defective (Chapter 6).
Lubrication inadequate
Fuel/air mixture incorrect - carburettor models
Engine oil level too low. Friction caused by intermittent lack of
Faulty automatic choke unit (Chapter 5A).
lubrication or from oil that is overworked can cause overheating.
Faulty idle air control valve (Chapter 5A).
The oil provides a definite cooling function in the engine. Check
L) Pilot screw out of adjustment (Chapter 5A).
the oil level (Pre-ride checks).
) Pilot jet or air passage clogged. Remove and clean the carburettor
(Chapter 5A). Poor quality engine oil or incorrect viscosity or type. Oil is rated
|] Air hole clogged. Remove carburettor and blow out all passages not only according to viscosity but also according to type. Some
(Chapter 5A). oils are not rated high enough for use in this engine. Check the
Air filter clogged, poorly sealed or missing (Chapter 1). Specifications section and change to the correct oil (Chapter 1).
car |
Air filter housing poorly sealed. Look for cracks, holes or loose
screws and renew or repair defective parts. Miscellaneous causes
Carburettor intake duct loose. Check for cracks, breaks, tears or Modification to exhaust system. Most aftermarket exhaust
loose fixings. systems cause the engine to run leaner, which make them run
Fuel tank vent in filler cap blocked. Clean and blow through or hotter. When installing an accessory exhaust system, always
replace with a new one. obtain advice on rejetting the carburettor.

5 Transmission problems
No drive to rear wheel Poor performance
Drive belt broken (Chapter 3). Variator worn or damaged (Chapter 3).
0 Clutch not engaging (Chapter 3). Weak or broken clutch pulley spring (Chapter 3).
Clutch or drum excessively worn (Chapter 3). Clutch shoes or drum excessively worn (Chapter 3).
Grease on clutch friction material (Chapter 3).
Transmission noise or vibration Drive belt excessively worn (Chapter 3).
Bearings worn. Also includes the possibility that the shafts are
worn. Overhaul the gearbox (Chapter 3). Clutch not disengaging completely
Gears worn or chipped (Chapter 3). Weak or broken clutch shoe springs (Chapter 3).
Clutch drum worn unevenly (Chapter 3). Engine idle speed too high (Chapter 1).
Worn bearings or bent shaft (Chapter 3).
Loose clutch nut or drum nut (Chapter 3).
reFe22 Fault Finding
6 Abnormal engine noise
Knocking or pinking badly flooded engine or from ingesting a foreign object into the
combustion chamber. Renew the damaged parts (Chapter 2).
|] Carbon build-up in combustion chamber. Use of a fuel additive
that will dissolve the adhesive bonding the carbon particles to Piston pin or piston pin bore worn or seized from wear or lack of
the piston crown and chamber is the easiest way to remove the lubrication. Renew damaged parts (Chapter 2).
build-up. Otherwise, the cylinder head will have to be removed Piston ring(s) worn, broken or sticking. Overhaul the top-end
and decarbonised (Chapter 2). (Chapter 2).
L Incorrect or poor quality fuel. Old or improper fuel can cause Piston seizure damage. Usually from lack of lubrication or
detonation. This causes the piston to rattle, thus the knocking overheating. First find and cure the cause of the problem
or pinking sound. Drain the old fuel and always use the (Chapters 2 and 4), then rebore the cylinder and fit an oversize
recommended grade fuel (Chapter 5A or 5B). piston and rings (Chapter 2).
7 Spark plug type incorrect. Uncontrolled detonation indicates Connecting rod small- or big-end clearance excessive. Caused by
that the plug heat range is too hot. The plug in effect becomes a excessive wear or lack of lubrication. Renew worn parts (Chapter 2).
glow plug, raising cylinder temperatures. Install the proper plug
Other noise
(Chapter 1).
q Improper air/fuel mixture. This will cause the cylinder to run hot Exhaust pipe leaking at cylinder head connection. Caused by
and lead to detonation. Clogged carburettor jets, a fuel injection improper fit of pipe or damaged gasket. All exhaust fasteners
system fault or an air leak can cause this imbalance (Chapter 5A should be tightened evenly and carefully (Chapter 5A or 5B).
or 5B). Crankshaft runout excessive. Caused by a bent crankshaft (from
over-revving) or damage from an upper cylinder component failure
Piston slap or rattling (Chapter 2).
|_| Cylinder-to-piston clearance excessive. Caused by improper Engine mounting bolts loose. Tighten ail engine mounting bolts
assembly. Inspect and overhaul top-end parts (Chapter 2). (Chapter 2).
Connecting rod bent. Caused by over-rewving, trying to start a Crankshaft bearings worn (Chapter 2).

7 Abnormal frame and suspension noise

Front end noise Brake noise
[| Steering head bearings loose or damaged. Clicks when braking. i Squeal caused by dust on brake pads or shoes. Usually found in
Check and adjust or replace as necessary (Chapters 1 and 7). combination with glazed pads or shoes. Renew the pads/shoes
L] Bolts loose. Make sure all bolts are tightened to the specified (Chapter 8).
torque (Chapter 7).
O Contamination of brake pads or shoes. Oil or brake fluid causing
[_] Fork tube bent. Good possibility if machine has been in a collision.
brake to chatter or squeal. Renew pads or shoes (Chapter 8).
Renew the tube or the fork assembly (Chapter 7).
Pads or shoes glazed. Caused by excessive heat from prolonged
[_] Front axle nut loose. Tighten to the specified torque (Chapter 8).
[_] Loose or worn wheel bearings. Check and renew as needed use or from contamination. Do not use sandpaper, emery cloth,
(Chapter 8). carborundum cloth or any other abrasive to roughen the pad
surfaces as abrasives will stay in the pad material and damage
Shock absorber noise the disc or drum. A very fine flat file can be used, but pad or shoe
Fluid level low due to leakage from defective seal. Shock will be renewal is advised (Chapter 8).
covered with oil. Renew the shock (Chapter 7). Disc or drum warped. Can cause a chattering, clicking or
Defective shock absorber with internal damage. Renew the shock intermittent squeal. Usually accompanied by a pulsating lever
(Chapter 7). and uneven braking. Check the disc runout and the drum ovality
Bent or damaged shock body. Renew the shock (Chapter 7). (Chapter 8).
Loose or worn rear suspension swingarm components. Check and Loose or worn wheel (front) or transmission (rear) bearings. Check
renew as necessary (Chapter 7). and renew as needed (Chapter 8).
I"
Fault Finding rerez3
ee

8 Excessive exhaust smoke

White smoke [_] Float needle valve held off needle seat. Clean the float chamber
L] Piston oil ring worn. The ring may be broken or damaged, causing and fuel line and renew the needle if necessary
oil from the crankcase to be pulled past the piston into the (Chapter 5A).
a lanes chamber. Replace the rings with new ones (Chapter
Black smoke (rich mixture) - fuel injection models
2)
L] Cylinder worn, cracked, or scored. Caused by overheating or oil Air filter clogged. Clean or renew the element (Chapter 1).
starvation. First find and cure the cause of the problem (Chapters Fuel injection system or idle air control valve malfunction (Chapter
2 and 4), then rebore the cylinder and fit an oversize piston and 5B).
rings (Chapter 2). Fuel pressure too high. Check the fuel pressure (Chapter 5B).
[| Valve stem seal damaged or worn. Remove valves and replace Brown smoke (lean mixture) - carburettor models
seals with new ones (Chapter 2).
_| Valve guide worn. Perform a complete valve job (Chapter 2). Main jet too small or clogged. Lean condition caused by wrong
Engine oil level too high, which causes the oil to be forced past size main jet or by a restricted orifice. Clean float chamber and jets
the rings. Drain oil to the proper level (Pre-ride checks). and compare jet size to specifications (Chapter 5A).
|_| Head gasket broken between oil return and cylinder. Causes oil to Fuel flow insufficient. Float needle valve stuck closed due to
be pulled into the combustion chamber. Renew the head gasket chemical reaction with old fuel. Restricted fuel hose. Clean hose
and check the head for warpage (Chapter 2). and float chamber (Chapter 5A).
Abnormal crankcase pressurisation, which forces oil past the Carburettor clamp or intake duct bolts loose (Chapter 5A).
rings. Clogged breather is usually the cause. Air filter poorly sealed or not installed (Chapter 1).
Ignition timing incorrect (Chapter 6).

Black smoke (rich mixture) - carburettor models Brown smoke (lean mixture) - fuel injection models
Air filter clogged. Clean or renew the element (Chapter 1). Fuel pump faulty or pressure regulator stuck open (Chapter 5B).
Main jet too large or loose. Compare the jet size to the Throttle body clamp or intake duct bolts loose (Chapter 5B).
Specifications (Chapter 5A). Air filter poorly sealed or not installed (Chapter 1).
Automatic choke unit or idle air control valve faulty (Chapter 5A). Fuel injection system malfunction (Chapter 5B).

9 Poor handling or stability

Handlebar hard to turn Engine mounting bolts loose. Will cause excessive vibration with
increased engine rpm (Chapter 2).
(-} Steering head bearing adjuster nut too tight. Check adjustment as
described in Chapter 1.
[| Bearings damaged. Roughness can be felt as the bars are turned
Handlebar pulls to one side
from side-to-side. Replace bearings and races (Chapter 7).
[_] Races dented or worn. Denting results from wear in only one Frame bent. Definitely suspect this if the machine has been in a
position (e.g. straight ahead), from a collision or hitting a pothole collision. May or may not be accompanied by cracking near the
or from dropping the machine. Renew races and bearings bend. Renew the frame (Chapter 7).
(Chapter 7). Wheels out of alignment. Caused by improper location of axle
[] Steering stem lubrication inadequate. Causes are grease getting spacers or from bent steering stem or frame (Chapter 8).
hard from age or being washed out by high pressure car washes. Steering stem bent. Caused by impact damage or by dropping the
Disassemble steering head and repack bearings (Chapter 7). machine. Renew the steering stem (Chapter 7).
Steering stem bent. Caused by a collision, hitting a pothole or Fork tube bent. Disassemble the forks and renew the damaged
by dropping the machine. Renew damaged part. Don’t try to parts (Chapter 7).
straighten the steering stem (Chapter 7).
Front tyre air pressure too low (Pre-ride checks).
Poor shock absorbing qualities
Handlebar shakes or vibrates excessively Too hard:
[] Tyres worn (Pre-ride checks). a) Fork oil quantity excessive (Chapter 7).
Suspension worn. Renew worn components (Chapter 7). b) Fork oil viscosity too high (Chapter 7).
Wheel rim(s) warped or damaged. Inspect wheels for runout c) Suspension bent. Causes a harsh, sticking feeling (Chapter 7).
(Chapter 8). d) Fork internal damage (Chapter 7).
Wheel bearings worn. Worn wheel bearings (front) or transmission e) Rear shock internal damage (Chapter 7).
bearings (rear) can cause poor tracking. Worn front bearings will f) Tyre pressure too high (Pre-ride checks).
cause wobble (Chapter 8). Too soft:
Handlebar mounting loose (Chapter 7). a) Fork oil viscosity too light (Chapter 7).
Front suspension bolts loose. Tighten them to the specified torque b) Fork or shock spring(s) weak or broken (Chapter 7).
(Chapter 7). c) Fork or shock internal damage or leakage (Chapter 7).
 reFe24 Fault Finding
10 Braking problems - disc brakes
Brake is ineffective Brake lever pulsates
Air in brake hose. Caused by inattention to master cylinder fluid Disc warped. Renew disc (Chapter 8).
level (Pre-ride checks) or by leakage. Locate problem and bleed Axle bent. Renew axle (Chapter 8).
brake (Chapter 8). Brake caliper bolts loose (Chapter 8).
Pads or disc worn (Chapters 1 and 8). Wheel warped or otherwise damaged (Chapter 8).
Brake fluid leak. Locate problem and rectify (Chapter 8). Wheel or hub bearings damaged or worn (Chapter 8).
Contaminated pads. Caused by contamination with oil, grease,
brake fluid, etc. Renew pads. Clean disc thoroughly with brake Brake drags
cleaner (Chapter 8). iS Master cylinder piston seized. Caused by wear or damage to
Brake fluid deteriorated. Fluid is old or contaminated. Drain piston or cylinder bore (Chapter 7).
system, replenish with new fluid and bleed the system ist Lever baliky or stuck. Check pivot and lubricate (Chapter 7).
(Chapter 8). Brake caliper piston seized in bore. Caused by wear or ingestion
Master cylinder internal parts worn or damaged causing fluid to of dirt past deteriorated seal (Chapter 7).
bypass (Chapter 8). Brake pads damaged. Pad material separated from backing plate.
Master cylinder bore scratched by foreign material or Usually caused by faulty manufacturing process or from contact
broken spring. Repair or renew master cylinder (Chapter 8). with chemicals. Renew pads (Chapter 7).
Disc warped. Renew disc (Chapter 8). Caliper slider pins sticking (sliding caliper). Clean the slider pins
and apply a smear of silicone grease (Chapter 7).
Pads improperly installed (Chapter 7).

11 Braking problems —- rear drum brake

Brake is ineffective Brake drags
[_] Cable incorrectly adjusted. Check cable (Chapter 1). Cable incorrectly adjusted or requires lubrication. Check cable
IL] Shoes or drum worn (Chapter 8). (Chapter 8).
Contaminated shoes. Caused by contamination with oil, grease Shoe return springs broken (Chapter 8).
etc. Renew shoes. Clean drum thoroughly with brake cleaner Lever balky or stuck. Check pivot and lubricate (Chapter 7).
(Chapter 8). Brake arm or cam binds. Caused by inadequate lubrication or
|] Brake arm incorrectly positioned, or cam excessively worn damage (Chapter 8).
(Chapter 8). Brake shoe damaged. Friction material separated from shoe.
Brake lever pulsates Usually caused by faulty manufacturing process or from contact
with chemicals. Renew shoes (Chapter 8).
Drum warped. Renew drum (Chapter 8). Shoes improperly installed (Chapter 8).
Axle bent. Renew axle (Chapter 8).
Wheel warped or otherwise damaged (Chapter 8).
OOO
Wheel/hub bearings (front) or transmission bearings (rear)
damaged or worn (Chapter 8).

12 Electrical roblems
Battery dead or weak Alternator stator coil open or shorted (Chapter 10).
|_| Battery faulty. Caused by sulphated plates which are shorted Wiring faulty. Wiring either shorted to earth or connections loose in
through sedimentation. Also, broken battery terminal making only ignition, charging or lighting circuits (Chapter 10).
occasional contact (Chapter 10). Battery overcharged
Battery leads making poor electrical contact (Chapter 10).
Regulator/rectifier defective. Overcharging is noticed when battery
Load excessive. Caused by addition of high wattage lights or
gets excessively warm (Chapter 10).
other electrical accessories. Battery defective. Renew battery (Chapter 10).
Ignition switch defective. Switch either earths internally or fails to
Battery amperage too low, wrong type or size. Install
shut off system. Renew the switch (Chapter 10). manufacturer’s specified amp-hour battery to handle charging
Regulator/rectifier defective (Chapter 10). load (Chapter 10).
 Index rere2s

Note: References throughout this index are in the form “Chapter number” e “Page number”. So, for example, 2°10 refers to page 10 of Chapter 2.
A Bulbs
brake/tail light — 10°11
headlight - 10¢7
ABS system checks and fault finding — 8°20 instrument and warning light bulbs — 10°17
ABS unit - 8°23 licence plate bulb — 10¢11
Air compensation chamber — 5Ae3, 5Be2 sidelight - 10¢9
Air filter -— 1°18 turn signal - 10°13
Air filter housing — 5Ae3, 5Be2 wattage — 10¢2
Alternator — 10¢25 Buying spare parts — 0e5
Automatic choke unit — 5Ae4
B C
Cables
Battery—1°18 rear brake and equalizer - 1°21, 8¢12
charging — 10e5 speedometer — 10°17
inspection — 1004 throttle - 1°30, 5Ae7
removal and installation - 10¢4 Cam chain tensioner — 2°7
Body panels and covers Cam chain blades and sprockets - 2°10
@ models — 9°19 Camshaft and rocker arms — 2°8
Dylan models - 9°15 Carburettor overhaul - 5A*¢5
Pantheon models — 9°28 Carburettor removal and installation — 5A*5
PS models — 9¢24 Catalytic converter - 5Be14
SH 01-04 models — 9e2 Centre stand — 7e2
SH 05-08 models — 9°6 Charging system testing - 10°24
SH 09-on models — 9°10 Clutch shoe wear check - 1°21
S-wing models — 9°33 Clutch and driven pulley — 3¢4
Bodywork -— 9e1 et seq Compression test — 2¢4
Brakes, wheels and tyres — 8¢7 et seq Cooling system - 4¢1 et seq
Braking system — 1°19 coolant level — 0°8
fluid -0°9, 1°21, 8°18 coolant reservoir — 4¢9
hoses, pipes and fittings —- 1°20, 8°18 cooling fan and fan switch or relay - 4e3
levers — 1°19, 794 draining, flushing and refilling — 4e2
light — 10¢7 fan and fan switch or relay — 4¢3
light bulb — 10¢11 hoses — 4¢9
light switches testing and replacement - 10°15 radiator - 4¢7
pads and shoes — 1°18, 8¢3, 8°11 specifications — 4¢1
system bleeding and fluid change - 8°18 system hoses — 4°9
ABS system checks and fault finding - 8°20 temp gauge/coolant temp sensor — 4¢5
ABS unit — 8°23 thermostat and housing — 4¢6
brake cables and equalizer mechanism — 1°21, 8°12 water pump — 4°8
brake system bleeding and fluid change - 8°18 Crankcase breather — 1°22
front brake caliper — 86 Crankcases, crankshaft assembly and bearings — 2¢21
front brake disc — 8°8 Cylinder block — 2°15
front brake master cylinder — 8°8 Cylinder head and valve overhaul — 2°11
front brake pads — 1°18, 893 Cylinder head removal and installation — 2°10
rear brake caliper — 8¢15
rear brake disc — 8°16 D
rear brake drum - 1°19, 8¢11
rear brake master cylinder — 8°17 Drive belt — 1¢22, 3¢8
rear brake pads — 1°18, 8°13 Drive belt cover — 3e2
specifications — 8¢1 Drive pulley and variator — 3e3
 REFe26 INdeX
Note: References throughout this index are in the form “Chapter number” « “Page number”. So, for example, 2°10 refers to page 10 of Chapter 2.

E Filter
air- 1°18
fuel — 1°25, 5Ae2
ECT sensor — 5Be5 transmission case - 1°31
ECU - 6¢4 Float height check — 5A°7
Electrical system - 10°17 et seq
Fluids
battery charging — 10°5
brake — 0e9, 1°21, 8°18
battery inspection — 1°18, 10¢4
coolant — 0¢8, 1°22, 4e2
battery removal and installation - 10¢4
oil — 0e7, 1°23
brake light switches testing and replacement — 10°15
oil (gearbox) — 1°25
brake light - 10°7
Forks — 1°29, 7¢7
brake/tail light bulb —- 10¢11
Frame and suspension — 71 et seq
charging system testing - 10°24
centre stand — 1°28, 72
continuity checks — 10¢2
front forks — 1°29, 7¢7
earth checks — 10¢3
handlebars — 7e3
fault finding - 10°¢2, REFe24
levers — 7°4
fuses — 10°5
rear shock absorbers — 1°29, 7°11
headlight aim - 10°10
sidestand — 1°28, 7e2
headlight bulb — 10°7
specifications — 7¢1
headlight removal - 10¢9
headlight — 10°7 steering head bearings — 1°28, 7°6
steering stem — 7¢4
instrument and warning light bulbs — 10¢17
instrument check — 10°16 swingarm — 1°29, 7e11
instrument cluster removal — 10¢15 frame number — 0¢5
instrument replacement — 10°17 Front brake
leakage test - 10°25 caliper — 8¢6
licence plate bulb - 10°11 brake disc — 8¢8
licence plate light (SH, Pantheon and S-wing models) — 10°7 master cylinder — 8¢8
main relay — 10°6 brake pads — 1°18, 8¢3
regulator/rectifier - 10°27 Front forks — 1°29, 7e7
sidelight bulb - 109 Front mudgard
specifications — 10¢1 @ models - 9e21
tail light - 10°12 Dylan models - 9°17
tail light/sidelight - 10°7 Pantheon models — 9¢31
turn signal assemblies — 10014 PS models — 9°27
turn signal bulbs — 10¢13 SH 01-04 models — 9¢3
turn signal circuit check — 10°12 SH 05-08 models — 99
voltage checks — 10e3 SH 09-on models - 9e12
wiring diagrams — 10°28 S-wing models — 9e38
Engine - 2°71 et seq Front pulse ring (ABS) — 8°23
cam chain tensioner — 2¢7 Front wheel — 8°24
cam chain, blades and sprockets — 2°10 Front wheel speed sensor — 8°23
camshaft and rocker arms — 2¢8 Fuel and exhaust systems carburettor engines - 5A¢1 et seq
crankcases, crankshaft assembly and bearings — 2°21 air compensation chamber — 5Ae3
cylinder block — 2e¢15 fuel tap and filter — 5Ae2 :
cylinder head — 2°10 pulse secondary air system (PAIR) — 5Ae9
disassembly and reassembly — 2e6 air filter housing — 5Ae3
engine number — 0e5 automatic choke unit — 5Ae4
engine removal and installation — 2¢4 exhaust system — 5Ae8
oil top up — 0°7 float height check — 5Ae7
oil change and strainer — 1°23 fuel gauge and level sensor — 5Ae10
oil pump — 2°19 Idle air control valve — 5Ae¢4
piston rings — 2°17 specifications — 5Ae1
piston — 2°16 throttle cable - 1°30, 5Ae7
specifications — 2¢1 carburettor removal and installation — 5Ae5
starter clutch and gears - 2e19 carburettor overhaul — 5Ae5
stop relay — 5Be9 Fuel cut-off relay — 5Be9
valve clearances — 1°31 Fuel gauge and level sensor - 5A°10, 5Be13
valve cover — 2¢6 Fuel injection and engine management system components
— 5Be5
Exhaust system — 5Ae8, 5Be12 Fuel injection system - 5Be1 et seq
F air compensation chamber - 5Be2
air filter housing - 5Be2
catalytic converter — 5Be14
Fault finding - REFe17 et seq description — 5Be3
ABS - 8°20
ECT sensor - 5Be5
electrical system — 10¢2
engine stop relay —- 5BeQ
fuel injection system — 5Be3
exhaust system - 5Be12
Ee
ae ee a a
Index rere27
re
Note: References throughout this index are in the form “Chapter number” e “Page number”. So, for example, 2°10 refers to page 10 of Chapter 2.
fault diagnosis — 5Be3 Instrument replacement — 10°17
Fl and engine management system components - 5Be5 Introduction — 0°4
fuel cut-off relay — 5Be9
fuel gauge and level sensor — 5Be13
fuel injector - 5Be6
L
fuel pressure check — 5Be9 Leakage test (current) — 10°25
fuel pump — 5Be9 Lean angle sensor — 5Be7
IAT sensor — 5Be5 Lever (brake) — 1°19, 74
idle air control valve —- 5Be7 Licence plate bulb — 10¢11
lean angle sensor - 5Be7 Licence plate light (SH, Pantheon and S-wing models) — 10¢7
MAP sensor - 5Be5 Lighting system checks — 10°7
oxygen sensor — 5Be7 Luggage rack
specifications — 5Be1 @ models —- 9¢19
speed sensor — 5Be5 Dylan models — 9¢14
throttle body — 5Be8 Pantheon models — 9°28
TP sensor — 5Be5 PS models — 9¢22
Fuel injector — 5Be6 SH 01-04 models — 9e2
Fuel pressure check — 5Be9 SH 05-08 models - 9¢5
Fuel pump — 5Be9 SH 09-on models -— 9°10
Fuses — 10¢2, 10¢5 S-wing models — 9°33

G M
Gearbox — 3°8 Main relay — 10°6
Gearbox oil level and oil change — 1°25 Maintenance panel

H
@ models — 9e18
Dylan models — 9e13
Pantheon models — 9°28
Handlebar covers PS models — 9e22
@ models - 9e21 SH 05-08 models - 9¢5
Dylan models — 9°17 SH 09-on models — 9°10
PS models — 9¢26 S-wing models — 9e32
SH 01-04 models — 9e3 Maintenance schedules — 1¢2 et seq
SH 05-08 models — 9¢8 MAP sensor —- 5Be5
SH 09-on models - 9°12 Master cylinder
S-wing models — 9°37 front — 8¢8
Handlebar switches — 10°18 rear — 8e17
Handlebar, windshield and instrument cover, Pantheon models — 9°30 Mirrors
Handlebars — 73 @ models — 9e21
Headlight — 10°7 Dylan models — 9¢17
Headlight aim -— 1°26, 10°10 Pantheon models — 9¢30
Headlight bulb — 10¢7 PS models — 9°26
Headlight unit — 10¢9 SH 01-04 models - 9e2
Horn — 10°20 SH 05-08 models - 9e¢8
Hydraulic system delay valve (ABS) — 8°18 SH 09-on models - 9°12
S-wing models — 9°36

IAT sensor — 5Be5

O
Idle air control valve — 5Ae¢4, 5Be7 Oil
Idle fuel/air mixture adjustment — 5A°¢4 engine — 0e7, 123
Idle speed — 1°26 front forks — 7¢1, 7e7
Ignition coil — 6e2 gearbox — 1°25
Ignition switch — 10°18 Oil pump - 2°19
Ignition system — 6¢7 et seq Oxygen sensor - 5Be7
check — 6e2
ECU - 6e4
p
ignition timing — 6¢4
pulse generator coil - 6e4 Piston — 2°16
spark plug — 1°27 Piston rings — 2°17
specifications — 6¢1 Pulse generator coil - 6e4
timing — 6¢4 Pulse secondary air system (PAIR) - 1°27, 5Ae9
Instrument bulbs — 10°17
Instrument check — 10°16 R
Instrument cluster removal — 10°15
Instrument cover S-wing models — 9°37 Radiator — 4¢7
REFe28 Notes
Note: References throughout this index are in the form “Chapter number” « “Page number”. So, for example, 2°10 refers to page 10 of Chapter 2.
Rear brake caliper — 8¢15 Steering stem —- 7°4
Rear brake disc - 8¢16 Storage compartment
Rear brake drum - 8e11 @ models —- 9°18
Rear brake master cylinder — 8°17 Dylan models —- 9°13
Rear brake pads - 1°18, 8¢13 Pantheon models — 9¢27
Rear drum brake cables and equalizer mechanism — 1¢19, 8¢12 PS models - 9e22
Rear hugger SH 05-08 models — 994
@ models - 9e21 SH 09-on models - 9°10
Dylan models - 9°18 S-wing models — 9¢31
Pantheon models — 9°31 Suspension - 1°29, 7¢7, 7°11
PS models — 9°27 Swingarm - 7¢11
SH 01-04 models — 9e3 Switches
SH 05-08 models — 9e9 handlebar — 10¢18
SH 09-on models - 9e13 ignition — 10°18
S-wing models — 9¢38 sidestand — 10°19
Rear pulse ring (ABS) — 8¢23 starter inhibitor - 10e19
Rear shock absorbers — 1°29, 7°11 System checks ABS - 8¢21
Rear wheel - 8°26 7
Rear wheel speed sensor - 823
Regulator/rectifier — 10¢27
Tail light - 10¢12
Ss Tail
Tail
light bulb — 10°11
light/sidelight circuit — 10¢7
Safety — 0¢6 Tap (fuel) — 5Ae2
Seat Temperature gauge and coolant temperature sensor — 4¢5
@ models - 9°18 Thermostat and housing — 4°6
Dylan models — 9°13 Throttle body — 5Be8
Pantheon models — 9°27 Throttle cable — 1°30, 5Ae7
PS models — 922 Tools and Workshop Tips — REFe1 et seq
SH 01-04 models - 92 TP sensor — 5Be5
SH 05-08 models — 994 Transmission — 3¢1 et seq
SH 09-on models — 9°10 case filter — 1°31
S-wing models - 9¢31 clutch and driven pulley —- 1°21, 3e4
Sensors drive belt - 1°22, 308
ECT - 5Be5 drive belt cover — 3e2
front wheel speed sensor (ABS) — 8°23 drive pulley and variator - 3e3
IAT - 5Be5 gearbox — 1°25, 3°8
idle air control valve —- 5Be7 specifications — 3¢1
lean angle sensor — 5Be7 Turn signal bulbs - 10¢13
MAP — 5Be5 Turn signal circuit check — 10°12
oxygen — 5Be7 Turn signals assemblies — 10°14
rear wheel speed sensor (ABS) - 8°23 Tyre pressures and tread — 0¢10
speed — 5Be5, 10°17 Tyres — 8e2, 8e27

V
TP -5Be5
Shock absorbers - 1°29, 7°11
Sidelight bulb — 10°9
Valve clearances — 1¢31
Sidestand — 1°28, 7¢2
Valve cover — 2°6
Sidestand switch - 10¢19
Spark plug -— 1°27 Valves (engine) — 2°11
Specifications and schedules — 1°2 et seq
cooling system — 4¢1 W
electrical system — 10¢1 Warning light bulbs — 10¢17
frame and suspension — 7¢1 Water pump - 4¢8
fuel and exhaust systems - carburettor engines — 5Ae1 Wheels
fuel injection system - 5Be1 front pulse ring (ABS) — 8e23
ignition system — 6e1 front wheel — 8¢24
transmission — 3e1
front wheel speed sensor (ABS) — 8¢23
brakes wheels and tyres — 8¢1 rear pulse ring — 8e23 (ABS)
engine — 2¢1 rear wheel — 8e26
Speed sensor — 5Be5, 10¢17 rear wheel speed sensor (ABS) — 8°23
Speedometer cable - 10°17 specifications - 8¢1
Stands - 1°28, 7e¢2 tyres — 8e27
Starter clutch and gears — 2¢19
wheel alignment check — 8¢24
Starter inhibitor switch — 10¢19 wheel bearings — 826
Starter motor - 10°21
wheel inspection and repair — 8¢23
Starter relay — 10°20
Windshield (S-wing models) — 9°36
Steering head bearings — 1°28, 7¢6 Wiring diagrams — 10¢28
Haynes Motorcycle Manuals = The Complete List
Title BookNo Title Book No ‘Title Book No
APRILIA RS50 (99 - 06) & RS125 (93 - 06) 4298 Honda GL1100 Gold Wing (79 - 81) 0669 Yamaha YB100 Singles (73 - 91) © 0474
Aprilia RSV1000 Mille (98 - 03) @ 4255 — Honda Gold Wing 1200 (USA) (84 - 87) 2199 Yamaha RS/RXS100 & 125 Singles (74 - 95) 0331
Aprilia SR50 4755 —_Honda Gold Wing 1500 (USA) (88 - 00) 2225 Yamaha RD & DT125LC (82 - 95) © 0887
BMW 2-valve Twins (70 - 96) @ 0249 KAWASAKI AE/AR 50 & 80 (81 - 95) 1007 | Yamaha TZR125 (87 - 93) & DT125R (88 - 07) > 1655
BMW F650 @ 4761 ~— Kawasaki KC, KE & KH100 (75 - 99) 1371. Yamaha TY50, 80, 125 & 175 (74 - 84) > 0464
BMW K100 & 75 2-valve Models (83 - 96) @ 1373 Kawasaki KMX125 & 200 (86 - 02) © 3046 Yamaha XT & SR125 (82 - 03) © 1021
BMW R850, 1100 & 1150 4-valve Twins (93 - 04) @ 3466 Kawasaki 250, 350 & 400 Triples (72 - 79) 0134 Yamaha YBR125 47197
BMW R1200 (04 - 06) @ 4598 Kawasaki 400 & 440 Twins (74 - 81) 0281 Yamaha Trail Bikes (81 - 00) 2350
BSA Bantam (48 - 71) 0117 — Kawasaki 400, 500 & 550 Fours (79 - 91) 0910 Yamaha 2-stroke Motocross Bikes 1986 - 2006 2662
BSA Unit Singles (58 - 72) 0127 — Kawasaki EN450 & 500 Twins (Ltd/Vulcan) (85 - 07) 2053 Yamaha YZ & WR 4-stroke Motocross Bikes (98-08) 2689
BSA Pre-unit Singles (54 - 61) 0326 Kawasaki EX500 (GPZ500S) & ER500 (ER-5) (87-08) 2052 Yamaha 250 & 350 Twins (70 - 79) 0040
BSA A7 & A10 Twins (47 - 62) 0121 Kawasaki ZX600 (ZZ-R600 & Ninja ZX-6) (90 - 06) 2146 Yamaha XS250, 360 & 400 sohc Twins (75 - 84) 0378
BSA ASO & A65 Twins (62 - 73) 0155 Kawasaki ZX-6R Ninja Fours (95 - 02) @ 3541 Yamaha RD250 & 350LC Twins (80 - 82) 0803
Chinese Scooters 4768 — Kawasaki ZX-6R (03 - 06) @ 4742 Yamaha RD350 YPVS Twins (83 - 95) 1158
DUCATI 600, 620, 750 and 900 2-valve V-Twins (91 - 05) 3290 Kawasaki ZX600 (GPZ600R, GPX6OOR, Ninja 600R Yamaha RD400 Twin (75 - 79) 0333
Ducati MK Ill & Desmo Singles (69 - 76) © 0445 & RX) & ZX750 (GPX750R, Ninja 750R) 1780 Yamaha XT, TT & SR500 Singles (75 - 83) 0342
Ducati 748, 916 & 996 4-valve V-Twins (94 - 01) @ 3756 Kawasaki 650 Four (76 - 78) 0373 Yamaha XZ550 Vision V-Twins (82 - 85) 0821
GILERA Runner, DNA, Ice & SKP/Stalker (97 - 07) 4163 Kawasaki Vulcan 700/750 & 800 (85 - 04) @ 2457 Yamaha FJ, FZ, XJ & YX600 Radian (84 - 92) 2100
HARLEY-DAVIDSON Sportsters (70 - 08) @ 2534 — Kawasaki 750 Air-cooled Fours (80 - 91) 0574 Yamaha XJ600S (Diversion, Seca Il) & XJ600N Fours (92 - 03) @ 2145
Harley-Davidson Shovelhead and Evolution Big Twins Kawasaki ZR550 & 750 Zephyr Fours (90 - 97) 3382 Yamaha YZF600R Thundercat & FZS600 Fazer (96 - 03) # 3702
(70 - 99) @ 2536 Kawasaki Z750 & Z1000 (03 - 08) 4762 YamahaFZ-6Fazer(04-07)
© A751
Harley-Davidson Twin Cam 88 (99 - 03) @ 2478 — Kawasaki ZX750 (Ninja ZX-7 & ZXR750) Fours (89 - 96) @ 2054 Yamaha YZF-R6 (99 - 02) 3900
HONDA NB, ND, NP & NS5O Melody (81 - 85) © 0622 Kawasaki Ninja ZX-7R & ZX-9R (94 - 04) ¢ 3721 Yamaha YZF-R6 (03 - 05) 4601
Honda NE/NBSO Vision & SA5O Vision Met-in (85-95) © 1278 Kawasaki 900 & 1000 Fours (73 - 77) 0222 Yamaha 650 Twins (70 - 83) 0341
Honda MB, MBX, MT & MTX50 (80 - 93) 0731 Kawasaki ZX900, 1000 & 1100 Liquid-cooled Fours (83-97) @ 1681 Yamaha XJ650 & 750 Fours (80 - 84) 0738
Honda C50, C70 & C90 (67 - 03) 0324 KTM EXC Enduro & SX Motocross (00 - 07) 4629 Yamaha XS750 & 850 Triples (76 - 85) 0340
Honda XR80/100R & CRF80/100F (85 - 04) 2218 MOTO GUZZI 750, 850 & 1000 V-Twins (74 - 78) 0339 Yamaha TDM850, TRX850 & XTZ750 (89 - 99) © @ 3540
Honda XU/XR 80, 100, 125, 185 & 200 2-valve Models (78 - 87) 0566 © MZETZ Models (81 - 95) © 1680 Yamaha YZF750R & YZF1000R Thunderace (93-00) 3720
Honda H100 & H100S Singles (86 - 92) © 0734 NORTON 500, 600, 650 & 750 Twins (57 - 70) 0187 Yamaha FZR600, 750 & 1000 Fours (87 - 96) @ 2056
Honda CB/CD125T & CM125C Twins (77 - 88) © 0571 ~~Norton Commando (68 - 77) 0125 = Yamaha XV (Virago) V-Twins (81 - 03) 0802
Honda CG125 (76 - 07) © 0433 PEUGEOT Speedfight, Trekker & Vivacity Scooters (96 - 08) 3920 Yamaha XVS650 & 1100 Drag Star/V-Star (97 - 05) @ 4195
Honda NS125 (86 - 93) © 3056 PIAGGIO (Vespa) Scooters (91 - 06) © 3492 Yamaha XJ9OOF Fours (83 - 94) 3239
Honda CBR125R (04 -.07) 4620 SUZUKI GT, ZR & TS50 (77 - 90) © 0799 Yamaha XJ900S Diversion (94 - 01) 3739
Honda MBX/MTX125 & MTX200 (83 - 93) © 1132 — Suzuki TS50X (84 - 00) © 1599 Yamaha YZF-R1 (98 - 03) @ 3754
Honda CD/CM185 200T & CM250C 2-valve Twins (77 - 85) 0572 Suzuki 100, 125, 185 & 250 Air-cooled Trail bikes (79 - 89) 0797 © Yamaha YZF-R1 (04 - 06) 4605
Honda XL/XR 250 & 500 (78 - 84) 0567 Suzuki GP100 & 125 Singles (78 - 93) © 0576 Yamaha FZS1000 Fazer (01 - 05) 4287
Honda XR250L, XR250R & XR400R (86 - 03) 2219 Suzuki GS, GN, GZ & DR125 Singles (82 - 05) © 0888 Yamaha FJ1100 & 1200 Fours (84 - 96) @ 2057
Honda CB250 & CB400N Super Dreams (78 - 84) © 0540 Suzuki GSX-R600/750 (06 - 09) 4790 Yamaha XJR1200 & 1300 (95 - 06) @ 3981
Honda CR Motocross Bikes (86 - 01) 2222 = Suzuki 250 & 350 Twins (68 - 78) 0120 Yamaha V-Max (85 - 03) @ 4072
Honda CRF250 & CRF450 (02 - 06) 2630 Suzuki GT250X7, GT200X5 & SB200 Twins (78-83) © 0469 ATVs
Honda CBR400RR Fours (88 - 99) © 3552 Suzuki GS/GSX250, 400 & 450 Twins (79 - 85) 0736 Honda ATC70, 90, 110, 185 & 200 (71 - 85) 0565
Honda VFR400 (NC30) & RVF400 (NC35) V-Fours (89-98) © @ 3496 Suzuki GS500 Twin (89 - 06) # 3238 Honda Rancher, Recon & TRX250EX ATVs 2553
Honda CB500 (93 - 02) & CBF500 03 - 08 © 3753 Suzuki GS550 (77 - 82) & GS750 Fours (76 - 79) 0363 Honda TRX300 Shaft Drive ATVs (88 - 00) 2125
Honda CB400 & CB550 Fours (73 - 77) 0262 Suzuki GS/GSX550 4-valve Fours (83 - 88) 1133 Honda Foreman (95 - 07) 2465
Honda CX/GL500 & 650 V-Twins (78 - 86) 0442 Suzuki SV650 & SV650S (99 - 08) @ 3912 Honda TRX300EX, TRX400EX & TRX450R/ER ATVs (93 - 06) 2318
Honda CBX550 Four (82 - 86) © 0940 Suzuki GSX-R600 & 750 (96 - 00) @ 3553 Kawasaki Bayou 220/250/300 & Prairie 300 ATVs (86 - 03) 2351
Honda XL600R & XR60OR (83 - 08) 2183 Suzuki GSX-R600 (01 - 03), GSX-R750 (00 - 03) & Polaris ATVs (85 - 97) 2302
Honda XL600/650V Transalp & XRV750 Africa Twin GSX-R1000 (01 - 02) 3986 Polaris ATVs (98 - 06) 2508
(87 to 07) 3919 Suzuki GSX-R600/750 (04 - 05) & GSX-R1000 (03 - 06) # 4382 Yamaha YFS200 Blaster ATV (88 - 06) 2317
Honda CBR600F1 & 1000F Fours (87 - 96) 1730 Suzuki GSF600, 650 & 1200 Bandit Fours (95-06) 3367 Yamaha YFB250 Timberwolf ATVs (92 - 00) 2217
Honda CBR600F2 & F3 Fours (91 - 98) 2070 Suzuki Intruder, Marauder, Volusia & Boulevard (85 - 06) # 2618 © Yamaha YFIM350 & YFM400 (ER and Big Bear) ATVs (87 - 03) 2126
Honda CBR600F4 (99 - 06) @ 3911 Suzuki GS850 Fours (78 - 88) 0536 © Yamaha Banshee and Warrior ATVs (87 - 03) 2314
Honda CB600F Hornet & CBF600 (98 - 06) © @ 3915 Suzuki GS1000 Four (77 - 79) 0484 Yamaha Kodiak and Grizzly ATVs (93 - 05) 2567
Honda CBR600RR (03 - 06) 4 4590 Suzuki GSX-R750, GSX-R1100 (85 - 92), GSX600F, ATV Basics 10450
Honda CB650 sohc Fours (78 - 84) 0665 GSX750F, GSX1100F (Katana) Fours @ 2055 TECHBOOK SERIES
Honda NTV600 Revere, NTV650 and NT650V Deauville Suzuki GSX600/750F & GSX750 (98 - 02) 3987 — Twist and Go (automatic transmission) Scooters
(88 - 05) © @ 3243 Suzuki GS/GSX1000, 1100 & 1150 4-valve Fours (79 - 88) 0737 Service and Repair Manual 4082
Honda Shadow VT600 & 750 (USA) (88 - 03) 2312 Suzuki TL1000S/R & DL1000 V-Strom (97 - 04) 4083 Motorcycle Basics TechBook (2nd Edition) 3515
Honda CB750 sohc Four (69 - 79) 0131 Suzuki GSF650/1250 (05 - 09) 4 4798 — Motorcycle Electrical TechBook (3rd Edition) 3471
Honda 45/65 Sabre & Magna (82 - 88) 0820 Suzuki GSX1300R Hayabusa (99 - 04) @ 4184 Motorcycle Fuel Systems TechBook 3514
Honda VFR750 & 700 V-Fours (86 - 97) @ 2101 Suzuki GSX1400 (02 - 07) ¢ 4758 Motorcycle Maintenance TechBook 4071
Honda VFR800 V-Fours (97 - 01) 3703 TRIUMPH Tiger Cub & Terrier (52 - 68) 0414 Motorcycle Modifying 4272
4196 — Triumph 350 & 500 Unit Twins (58 - 73) 0137 Motorcycle Workshop Practice TechBook (2nd Edition) 3470
Honda VFR800 V-Tec V-Fours (02 - 05)
Honda CB750 & CB900 dohc Fours (78 - 84) 0535 — Triumph Pre-Unit Twins (47 - 62) 0251
Super Hawk) & Triumph 650 & 750 2-valve Unit Twins (63 - 83) 0122 © = not available in the USA @ = Superbike
Honda VTR1000 (FireStorm,
XL1000V (Varadero) (97 - 08) @ 3744 Triumph Trident & BSA Rocket 3 (69 - 75) 0136
2161 — Triumph Bonneville (01 - 07) @ 4364 :
Honda CBR9OORR FireBlade (92 - 99)
Honda CBR9OORR FireBlade (00 - 03) 4060 Triumph Daytona, Speed Triple, Sprint & Tiger (97-05) @ 3755 The manuals on this page are available through good
Honda CBR1000RR Fireblade (04 - 07) 4604 Triumph Triples and Fours (carburettor engines) (91-04)@2162 | Motorcyle dealers and a shops. _
Honda CBR1100XX Super Blackbird (97 - 07) @ 3901 VESPA P/PX125, 150 & 200 Scooters (78 - 06) 0707 ~—‘'n case of difficulty, contact: Haynes pepe
Honda $11100 Pan European V-Fours (90 - 02) # 3384 —Vespa Scooters (59 - 78) 0126 © (UK) +44 1963 442030 = (USA) +1 805 498
Honda Shadow VT1100 (USA) (85 - 98) 2313 YAMAHA D150 & 80 Trail Bikes (78 - 95) > 0800 ©:(SV) +46 18 124016 a :
Honda GL1000 Gold Wing (75 - 79) 0309 Yamaha 150 & 80 Townmate (83 - 95) 1247 ~—_(Australia/New Zealand) +61 3 9763 610 MCL24,.08/09
 ne. ee ee ee ee, Bot Ff PF te fF Ne

NOP be WARWIANS! F *
TH1 WAR
aa oy Line
Vis Wi ji
WAC yy
Fi ee
ArWitar LIRDAL
res

The ModelJDuesenberg
Derham Tourster.
Only eight of these
magnificent cars were
ever built — this is the
only example to be found
outside the United States
of America
Almost every car you’ve ever loved, loathed or desired is gathered under one tgof-at the Haynes Motor
Museum. Over 300 immaculately presented cars and motorbikes represent every aspect“Of our motoring
heritage, from elegant reminders of bygone days, such as the superb ModelJ Dugsenberg to curiosities like the
bug-eyed BMW Isetta. There are also many old friends and flames. Perhaps ybu-rememibét the 1959 Ford.
Popular that you did your courting in? The magnificent “Red Collection’ is a Spectacle of elassic sports cars /'
including AC, Alfa Romeo, Austin Healey, Ferrari, Lamborghini, Maserati, MG,'Riley, Porsche and Triumph.
f
A Perfect Day Out eS i | se = F

Each and every vehicle at the Haynes Motor Museum has played its part infthe | history’ and culture of Mipiding
Today, they make a wonderful spectacle and a great day out for all the fayhily. Bring the kids, bring Mum and
Dad, but above all bring your camera to capture those golden memgties for ever,/You will also find an
impressive array of motoring memorabilia, a comfortable 70 seat vide cinema and one of the’most extensive
transport book shops in Britain. The Pit Stop Cafe serves everything from aa cup.of tea to whblesomie, home-
made meals or, if you prefer, you can enjoy the large picnic area nestled in the, beautiful rural’Surroundings of
Somerset. : er

John Haynes O.B.E, fe J * : i | mV Bee) The 1936 490cc

Founder and aa, i>. j LS z TP = oe © 1 sohc-engined
Chairman of the nd ; ; ’ le e International
museum at the wheel PT ge t ay Norton — well known
of a Haynes Light 12. © | for its racing success
A903 ANDOVER—>
OG ty

See }}
EXETER
TO M5 J 25
TAUNTON mo
z
PUBLISHING
aN
cy

The Museum is situated on the A359 Yeovil to Frome road at Sparkford, just off the A303 in Somerset. It is about 40 miles south of Bristol, and
25 minutes drive from the M5 intersection at Taunton.
Open 9.30am- 5.30pm (10.00am-4.00pm Winter) 7 days a week, except Christmas Day, Boxing Day and New Years Day
Special rates available for schools, coach parties and outings Charitable Trust No. 292048
 Spark Plugs Condition Chart

Electrode gap adjustment — bend the side electrode using the

correct tool.

Normal condition — A brown, tan or grey firing end indicates that Ash deposits — Light § brown deposits encrusted on the electrodes
the engine is in good condition and that the plug type is correct. and insulator, leaGini arithand hesitation. Caused by
| excessive amourtts Co};alin theSombustion chamber or poor
i) quality fuel/oil. «©,
Gy eal & yi

Carbon fouling - Dry, black sooty deposits leading to misfire and Oil fouling — Wet oily deposits leading to misfire and weak spark.
weak spark. Caused by an over-rich fuel/air mixture, faulty choke | Caused by oil leakage past piston rings or valve guides (4-stroke
operation or blocked air filter. | engine), or excess lubricant (2-stroke engine).

Overheating- A blistered white insulator and glazed electrodes. | Worn plug - Worn electrodes will cause poor starting in damp or
Caused by ignition system fault, incorrect fuel, or cooling system '. cold conditions and will also waste fuel.
fault.
 Haynes Service and Repair Manual
SH125 PLUMMER CORIY EN|'Aal=1¢al=]acer-lea alate Melel@-Maeleldia(-e-\-
aU (e-me)s
SH150 1527cc 01t0'04 rebuilding the engine, Haynes SHOWS YOU HOW
SH125i 1246cc ‘05to'09 and SAVES YOU MONEY
SH150i 152.7cc 05to 09
Dylan 125 124.6cc '02 to 08
Dylan 150 1527 cc 02 to 08
@125 124.6cc 00 to ‘06
@150 152.7cc 00 to 06
P$125i 124.6cc '06 to ‘09
PS150i SYA OR OMS)
Pantheon 125 124.6cc '03 to 06
Pantheon 150 152./cc '03 to '06
S-wing 125 124.6cc '07 to 09
S-wing 150 152.7¢¢ 07 to 09

# Acomplete step-by-step guide to servicing and routine

-maintenance.
¢ Engine, transmission, fuel and ignition system procedures and
_ repairs. |
¢ Braking, suspension and steering procedures and repairs.
# Haynes Hints and Tool Tips give you inside information.
Spanner ratings grade all tasks by experience level.
_ # Comprehensive wiring diagrams and fault finding.

ISBN 978 1 84425 873 4

UPC CODE

|
| | al ie News

| he t live without my Haynes...

Superbike |
pee? Publishing, Sparkford,
Sp Yeevil, Somerset BA22 7JJ. England. www.haynes.co.uk 6 ™99414"0069 RMN g
ABCDEFG