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A CULTURAL HISTORY
OF HAIR
VOLUME 5
A Cultural History of Hair
General Editor: Geraldine Biddle-Perry

Volume 1
A Cultural History of Hair in Antiquity
Edited by Mary Harlow

Volume 2
A Cultural History of Hair in the Middle Ages
Edited by Roberta Milliken

Volume 3
A Cultural History of Hair in the Renaissance
Edited by Edith Snook

Volume 4
A Cultural History of Hair in the Age of Enlightenment
Edited by Margaret K. Powell and Joseph Roach

Volume 5
A Cultural History of Hair in the Age of Empire
Edited by Sarah Heaton

Volume 6
A Cultural History of Hair in the Modern Age
Edited by Geraldine Biddle-Perry
A CULTURAL HISTORY
OF HAIR

IN THE AGE
OF EMPIRE
VOLUME 5

Edited by Sarah Heaton

 BLOOMSBURY ACADEMIC
Bloomsbury Publishing Plc
50 Bedford Square, London, WC1B 3DP, UK
1385 Broadway, New York, NY 10018, USA

BLOOMSBURY, BLOOMSBURY ACADEMIC and the Diana logo are trademarks

of Bloomsbury Publishing Plc

First published in Great Britain 2019

Copyright © Bloomsbury Publishing, 2019

Sarah Heaton has asserted her right under the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act,
1988, to be identified as Editor of this work.

Series design: Raven Design

Cover image: Bare female figure among lilies, Palermo, Sicily, Italy
© Mondadori Portfolio / Getty Images

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted

in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying,
recording, or any information storage or retrieval system, without prior permission in
writing from the publishers.

Bloomsbury Publishing Plc does not have any control over, or responsibility for,
any third-party websites referred to or in this book. All internet addresses given in this
book were correct at the time of going to press. The author and publisher regret any
inconvenience caused if addresses have changed or sites have ceased to exist, but
can accept no responsibility for any such changes.

A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.

A catalog record for this book is available from the Library of Congress.

ISBN: HB: 978-1-4742-3209-8

Set: 978-1-4742-3212-8

Series: The Cultural Histories Series

Typeset by Integra Software Services Pvt. Ltd.

To find out more about our authors and books visit www.bloomsbury.com
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 CONTENTS

L ist of F igures  vi
G eneral E ditor ’ s P reface  x

Introduction: Empires of Hair and their Afterlives 1

Sarah Heaton

1 Religion and Ritualized Belief: Myth, Folklore, and Spiritualism in

Victorian and Neo-Victorian Representations of Hair 19
Richard Leahy

2 Self and Society: Hair Consciousness in the Age of Empire 35

Jonathon Shears

3 Fashion and Adornment: African American Women in the United States,

1800 to 1920 53
Patricia Hunt-Hurst

4 Production and Practice: Hair Harvest, Hairpieces, and Hairwork 65

Sallie McNamara

5 Health and Hygiene: “Monster top-knots and balloon chignons” 83

Janice M. Allan

6 Gender and Sexuality: Tresses Adorned and Adored, Locks Coiled and Cut 101
Sarah Heaton

7 Race and Ethnicity: Strands of the Diaspora 117

Elizabeth Way

8 Class and Social Status: “The more you have the better” 139
Elizabeth Carolyn Miller

9 Cultural Representations: Hair as the Abundant Signifier 157

Sally West

N otes  169
B ibliography  197
C ontributors  211
I ndex  213
 LIST OF FIGURES

INTRODUCTION

I.1 The Seven Sutherland Sisters. 3

I.2 Elizabeth Barrett Browning’s hair in the J.H. Leigh Hunt Collection.
Courtesy Harry Ransom Center at the University of Texas at Austin. 5
I.3 John Absolon, “General view of the interior,” from Recollections
of the Great Exhibition (1851). Courtesy Metropolitan Museum of Art,
New York. 7
I.4 Simon Grennan, Hair in the Age of Empire, May 2017. 12
I.5 Advertisement for Parker’s Hair Balsam. 14
I.6 Advertisement for Harlene Hair Products. Courtesy Wellcome images. 16
I.7 Mourning brooches containing the hair of a deceased relative. 17

CHAPTER ONE

1.1 Dante Gabriel Rossetti (1828–1882), Mnemosyne, 1881. Oil on

canvas, 126.4 cm × 61 cm. Delaware Art Museum, Samuel
and Mary R. Bancroft Memorial, 1935. 31

CHAPTER TWO

2.1 Dr. Scott’s Electric Hair Brush. 38

2.2 Edward’s Harlene for the Hair. 41
2.3 “The Beard Movement,” Punch, March 8, 1856. 46

CHAPTER FOUR

4.1 Hairwork by Linherr & Co., Gleason’s Pictorial Drawing Room

Companion, 1853. Courtesy Trustees of the Boston Public Library. 71
4.2 Advertisement for Edwards’ Harlene, 1898. The Shetland Times,
June 25, 1898. 72
LIST OF Figures vii

4.3 Advertisement for the “Kaiser Mustache Trainer,” 1904. 74

4.4 One step in palette-working hair. Alexanna Speight, The Lock of Hair:
Its History, Ancient and Modern, Natural and Artistic; With the Art
of Working in Hair (London: A. Goubard, 1871). 77

CHAPTER FIVE

5.1 “The present fashions in hair, 1870.” From a Private Collection. 84

5.2 “Human hair sewn onto a braid foundation” (1850s–1880s). © Victoria
and Albert Museum, London. 86
5.3 Advertisement for “Postiches, nattes et crêpes.” La mode illustrée: Journal
de la famille 22 (May 31, 1863): 174. 88
5.4 “English plate.” Hairdresser’s Journal 1, no. 4 (June 1863): n.p. 89
5.5 “Fair at Collinée.” From chapter 18 of Thomas Adolphus Trollope’s
A Summer in Brittany. Edited by Frances Trollope, 2 vols. (London: Henry
Colburn, Publishers, 1840), vol. 1. 91
5.6 “Next Hideous ‘Sensation Chignon.’” Punch 53 (November 30, 1867):
219. Artist: Edward Linley Sambourne. 95

CHAPTER SIX

6.1 Dante Gabriel Rossetti, Lady Lilith, 1866–1868 (altered 1872–1873).

Oil on canvas, 97.5 cm × 84.1 cm. Delaware Art Museum, Wilmington,
USA/Samuel and Mary R. Bancroft Memorial, 1935. 111
6.2 Dante Gabriel Rossetti, Lady Lilith, 1873. Oil on canvas. Rossetti,
Dante Gabriel Charles (1828–82) / Universal Images Group North
America LLC / Alamy Stock Photo. 111
6.3 William Holman Hunt, The Lady of Shalott, 1857. Wood-engraved
illustrations from the Moxon edition. Engraver J. Thompson. 113
6.4 William Holman Hunt, The Lady of Shalott, 1886–1905. 113

CHAPTER SEVEN

7.1 The Smithsonian Museum of African Art describes the hairstyle of this
Yoruba figure as “cone-shaped […] with cylindrical projections [indicating]
stylistic traits from the Oyo and Owo regions.” Female figure, Yoruba
peoples, Nigeria, mid-nineteenth century. Ivory, black stone, 30.2 cm
× 5.3 cm × 8.6 cm. Acquisition grant from the James Smithson Society and
museum purchase, 85-9-1. Photo: Franko Khoury, National Museum of
African Art, Smithsonian Institution. 119
viii LIST OF Figures

7.2 This photograph is captioned “The Givers,” and it illustrates the social bonds
created through hair care on slave plantations. Photograph album:
“Rose-mary. A Plantation Home” (ca. 1890–1910), Edward Ward Carmack
Papers, 1850–1942. From the Southern Historical Collection, Louis Round
Wilson Special Collections Library, University of North Carolina at Chapel
Hill. (Original image has been cropped.) 122
7.3 Aquatint cartoon, drawn and etched by E.W. Clay. Philadelphia. Published
by S. Hart & Son, 1829. The Library Company of Philadelphia. 125
7.4 Jean-Baptiste Debret, “Esclaves nègres, de différentes nations.” Print.
One of 153 hand-colored lithographs on 140 sheets for Jean-Baptiste
Debret, Voyage pittoresque et historique au Brésil, ou Séjour d’un artiste
français au Brésil, depuis 1816 jusqu’en 1831 inclusivement, 3 vols.
(Paris: Firmin Didot frères, 1834–1839), ii: pl. 22. Hickey and Robertson,
Houston/Menil Foundation. 126
7.5 Frederick Douglass, ca. 1865. Photo: J.W. Hurn.
Library of Congress, Prints and Photographs Division (LC-USZ62-24165). 129
7.6 Studio portrait of an unidentified African American woman, no date.
(The vintage photograph is a carte de visite with the imprint of J.H. Smith,
769 Broad Street, Newark, NJ. A later copy print made by R.H. Beckwith,
photographer, Helena, MT, is on a cabinet mount.) Montana Historical
Society Research Center Photograph Archives, Helena, Montana. 130
7.7 This man’s hairstyle and facial hair are typical of fashionable men’s styles at
the turn of the twentieth century. Young African American man, 1900. Part
of W.E.B. Du Bois’s albums of photographs of African Americans in Georgia
exhibited at the Paris Exposition Universalle 1900. Library of Congress
(LC-USZ62-121113). 132
7.8 This class photograph of college-aged women shows a variety of women’s
hairstyles worn at the beginning of the twentieth century, some more
elaborate and fashionable than others. Junior normal class of Fisk University,
Nashville, Tennessee. Images collected by W.E.B. Du Bois and Thomas
J. Calloway for the “American Negro Exhibit” at the Paris Exposition of
1900. Library of Congress (LC-USZ62-112357). 133
7.9 Nannie Helen Burroughs, 1909. Photo: Rotograph Co., New York City.
Library of Congress, Prints and Photographs Division
(LC-USZ62-79903). 134

CHAPTER EIGHT

8.1 Boys at Crumpsall Workhouse, ca. 1895–1897. Source:

https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Children_at_crumpsall_
workhouse_circa_1895.jpg. 141
8.2 Punch cartoon with chignon, 1870. 143
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