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feeding the whole family
Recipes for Babies, Young Children, and Their Parents

cooking with whole foods

CYNTHIA LAIR FOREWORD BY PEGGY O’MARA

2
Dedicated to Michael and Grace,
who light the candle and eat the food with me.

Copyright © 2008 by Cynthia Lair

Electronic edition published 2009
All rights reserved. No portion of this book may be reproduced or utilized in any form, or by any
electronic, mechanical, or other means, without the prior written permission of the publisher.

First edition published by LuraMedia, Inc, 1994.

Second edition published by Moon Smile Press, 1997.

The information in this book has been prepared thoughtfully and carefully. It is not intended to be
diagnostic or prescriptive. Those who read the book are encouraged to use their own good judgment
and to consult with their chosen health practitioner when planning their family’s diet.

Printed in the United States of America

Published by Sasquatch Books
Distributed by PGW/Perseus
15 14 13 12 11 10 09 08     9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

Cover illustration: Nikki McClure

Cover & interior design: Kate Basart/Union Pageworks
Interior illustrations: Robynne Hawthorne

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data

Lair, Cynthia, 1953-
Feeding the whole family : recipes for babies, young children, and their parents
/ by Cynthia Lair ; foreword by Peggy O’Mara. -- [3rd ed.]
p. cm.
Includes bibliographical references and index.
ISBN-13: 978-1-57061-639-6 ISBN-10: 1-57061-639-6 (e-book)
ISBN-13: 978-1-57061-525-2 ISBN-10: 1-57061-525-X (paperback)
1. Cookery (Natural foods) 2. Natural foods. I. Title.

TX741.L345 2008
641.5’636--dc22
2007044496

Sasquatch Books
119 South Main Street, Suite 400
Seattle, WA 98104
(206) 467-4300
www.sasquatchbooks.com
[email protected]
Contents
Acknowledgments v
Foreword vii
Introduction to the Third Edition ix

Wholesome Family Eating 1

What Do We Mean by Wholesome? 2
Shopping for Sustenance 6
Sharing a Nourishing Meal 19
Setting the Table, Setting the Scene 21

Including Baby 25
Start with the Best, the Breast 26
Starting Solids 30
Food Allergies and Intolerances 36
Expanding the Diet of the Older Baby 38

Raising Healthy Eaters 41

Parents as Role Models 42
Setting Boundaries 44
What Should I Give My Child to Drink? 47
Involving Your Children in the Kitchen 51
Presenting Food So It Appeals to Young Children 52
“My Child Won’t Eat Vegetables” 54

Basic Grain and Bean Cookery 57

Bustling Breakfasts 73

Lively Lunch Boxes 97

Soothing Soups 123

Substantial Suppers 141

Got Color? 181

Fresh-Baked Breads and Muffins 211

Refreshing Relishes, Convenient Condiments 225

Simple Sweet Desserts 241

Daily Drinks and Brews 265

Appendix A: Have It Your Way: Flour, Fat, Milk, Sweetener, and Egg Substitutions 273
Appendix B: Identifying, Purchasing, and Storing Whole Foods 275
Appendix C: Meal Plans Using Recipes from This Book 285
References 288
Recommended Reading 291
Index 295

iv contents
Acknowledgments
I wish to acknowledge Jeff Basom, head chef at My heartfelt thanks to:
Bastyr University, for his incredible creativity Annemarie Colbin, my friend, colleague, and
with whole foods and for sharing his skills with influential teacher.
me. His following recipes or recipe adaptations Holly, Joy, and Matt for listening carefully and
are proudly featured in this book: Jeff’s Potato giving good counsel.
Pancakes, Lemon Basil Potato Salad, Golden Jamie for greasing the wheels.
Mushroom Basil Soup, Greens in Cashew Curry The talented performers in The Edge for keep-
Sauce, Luscious Beet Salad with Toasted Pump- ing me sane and out of my mind at the same time.
kin Seeds, Homemade Whole Grain Bread, and Lura Geiger, who was brave enough to give
Homemade Curry Paste. this book its start.
I am grateful to the faculty and staff at Bastyr I would also like to thank the following people
University’s School of Nutrition and Exercise and organizations for their various contributions
Science, who have given me a place to teach and of recipe ideas and expertise:
learn. In particular I wish to acknowledge Dr. Birgitte Antonsen, Aunt Cathy, Carlie Bockel-
Mark Kestin, Kathy Coffey, my creative colleague man, Michael Boer, Minx Boren, Karen Brown,
Mary Shaw and the two amazing women I teach Rita Carey, Goldie Caughlan, Mim Collins, Teresa
with—Jennifer Adler and Becky Boutch. Dowling, Connie Feutz, Dr. Bruce Gardner, Ronit
I have learned a great deal from Seattle’s own Gourarie, Jack Kelly, Chris Lair, Buck Levin, Judy
chain of high-quality natural foods markets— Loebl, Susan MacPherson, Kelly Morrow, Nina
Puget Consumers Co-op. I have been a teacher Petrulis, Nancy Rankin, Karen D. Seibert, Silence-
for the PCC Cooks program for a couple of Heart-Nest Restaurant, Gay Stielstra, Jackie Wil-
decades. The program is excellent, thanks to my liams, Susan Wilson, and Rebecca Wood.
friend Marilyn McCormick. And, finally, I would never have started this
The lovely people at Mothering magazine have journey without Michael and Grace and their
been very supportive of my work for many years. perpetual support of who I am.
Ashisha and Peggy O’Mara—though I’ve never met
you in person, I feel I know you and offer my grati-
tude. Many new additions to this version of the book
came from articles I have written for Mothering.


Foreword
Food is the new politics. In the past, it was enough choices, we need a guide, and there is no better
to know whether or not you ate meat. Now, we one than Cynthia Lair. Cynthia has an outstand-
also want to know where our food comes from, ing constellation of talents. She is well educated
how it was grown, and if there was any exploita- in nutrition and brings subtle expertise to the
tion involved. We’re also beginning to think about luscious recipes in this book. Because she is also
the carbon footprint of our food and, therefore, an excellent cook, the recipes are all delicious.
to ask if organic fruit from New Zealand is really Cynthia writes about food passionately, and
a sustainable choice. What we do realize now is with unusual clarity. And, because she is both
that local food is best. a teacher and a mother, she has anticipated the
One of the reasons that I’m so interested in questions her readers will have and has already
local food is that I want to support the farmers incorporated the solutions into her offerings.
who live near me. I also know that local food It is this outstanding combination of talents
requires less transportation, and thus less gas- that has called the editors at Mothering back to
oline, than food shipped in from hundreds or Cynthia’s articles again and again. For well over
thousands of miles away. And, in addition to a dozen years she has been our primary food
being sustainable, local food is simply fresher writer. She has an unequaled talent for writing
and tastier. about food and an enthusiasm for her subject
There’s no better place to get local food than that is contagious.
at our farmers’ market, and I rarely miss a Sat- In this book, you will have the pleasure of
urday there. Over the years, I’ve learned to bring reading astute food philosophy along with rich,
my own baskets, even my own plastic bags, and, tasty recipes that are responsive to your chal-
of course, cash. There are vegetables, fruits, lenges as a parent. It’s unusual, yet so rewarding,
meats, jellies, jams, baked goods, live plants, and to find a cookbook that includes the breastfeed-
music. A radio show may be broadcasting from ing years, early food for babies, and tips for
one of the booths. There is chili simmering in feeding children. And there are menus! The
the fall. I even noticed a cooking demonstration book is very comprehensive and that is comfort-
last Saturday. Going to the farmers’ market is a ing. What we need as parents is just one book, a
refreshing experience of community; it never guide. Feeding the Whole Family is that guide.
fails to cheer me up.
Buying local food and going to the farmers’ —Peggy O’Mara
market are both the result of a new awareness Editor and Publisher, Mothering
of our food choices. To lead us in making those October 2007

vii
Introduction to the Third Edition
During the quiet, steady life of this book, I have The “war on fat” dominated nutrition litera-
had the honor of being a teacher of cooking and ture in the 1980s and ’90s. Food with very little
nutrition. Every week, every class, students ask or no fat didn’t taste right or feel right no matter
questions that stump me, questions I find funny what compelling anti-fat “facts” prevailed. And
and annoying and stimulating. I am a natu- now we have a whole new bevy of pro-fat “facts”
rally curious person; the queries I can’t answer to add to the confusion. To gain some clarity, I
prompt me to keep learning. So when the oppor- looked at which fats add the most flavor while
tunity came to give Feeding the Whole Family a remaining stable when met with heat. I became
third incarnation, I was ready and said let’s go! A more and more picky about what I would use in
chance to incorporate new messages and recipes the teaching kitchen at Bastyr as well as in my
into the book sounded like fun. home. So in this version of Feeding the Whole
The good news is that the basic whole foods Family, I have used (almost exclusively) tradi-
premise with which this book began over a decade tional, stable fats and oils that people have used
ago still holds strong. When I began writing, the for centuries all over the globe. I’ve used them in
very term “whole foods” was new-age-ish and reasonable, but not restrictive, amounts. Health-
alternative, but surprise, surprise, it has become ful fats are crucial for the proper development
all the rage. Good for all of us. Imagine my glee of babies and young children, essential for the
when the USDA food pyramid (and Oprah!) pregnant or nursing mother. Put organic butter
started singing the praises of whole grains. Yee haw! on your baked potato. Olive oil makes fabulous
So what did you change in this third edition, salad dressing (and increases absorption of the
Cynthia? Over the years, I’ve realized that I really vitamins in the vegetables!).
have to dig my heels into organic dirt not to sway I’m sure you have heard stories of children who
with popular nutrition trends. We Americans (me proclaim themselves “vegetarian” to their unsus-
too!) are very susceptible to the latest whatever. pecting meat-and-potatoes parents. I experienced
We are willing to drop whole nutrient groups for the reverse. When my daughter was about 8 years
decades at a time (no butter? no bread?) because old, I brought home some raw beef chunks to give
of a newly released study or fad diet. This shun- to my terriers. My daughter pulled the plastic-
ning of staple foods (eggs, meat, butter, sugar, wrapped container from the grocery bag and begged
dairy, wheat, potatoes, you name it) does a lot to to eat the beef. I shrugged and said “sure,” suggest-
sell new products and little to improve overall ing that we cook it first. Being a mostly vegetarian
health. Like a garbage disposal, our media grinds parent raising a definitely carnivorous child and
up the tried-and-true systems of eating that have teaching hundreds of nutrition majors with differ-
supported generation after generation, leading us ent eating regimes, I strive to be open and accept-
to revere fear-based consumerism over common ing of everyone’s food choices, and that flexibility is
sense. I work to be loyal to what has sustained us reflected in these recipes.
in the past while incorporating (cautiously) the So you’ll notice more recipes using animal pro-
latest research. tein. Now that it is easier (not easy) to get meat,

ix
dairy, eggs, and poultry from humanely raised, from your need to eat, the whole mother earth
healthy animals, I feel easier about including more family. We are little links in an enormous, com-
in my book. It is perfectly cool to be a vegetarian. It plex food chain, and our lives depend on our
is also perfectly cool to be an omnivore. Every time appreciation and support of other links in the
we eat, it is costly; labor, resources, and lives are chain. When we buy organic green beans from
sacrificed to put delicious food on our tables. Who a local farmer, we not only support our family’s
can say if the life of a chicken is more valuable than vegetable intake and the farmer’s pocketbook,
the lives of thousands of microbes and insects that we support microorganisms in soil, plankton in
are destroyed when a row of kale is harvested? water, less junk in the landfill. Conscious grocery
Consciousness about this sacrifice, what we call cart choices support the sustainable future of all.
“giving thanks” before eating, is worth practicing Our children deserve to be fed well so that
and teaching to our children. they can pursue their dreams. Poor health due to
There are other new buttons and bows in this eating poor-quality food is fixable! When we help
edition. I’ve added over sixty new recipes that I children learn to eat well, we nourish our grand-
just love. I put together some new ways to design children and their children. Remind them that
meals that take into account not just nutrients the earth is the provider of food. Instill in chil-
and health, but color and flavor as well. The dren that no box, no powder, no concoction from
prevalence of food sensitivities in babies and a laboratory offers the same vitality and beauty as
children led me to offer additional help in mak- a direct offering from nature.
ing ingredient substitutions. What to give kids to Sitting down together and sharing food has
drink seems to confound most parents, so I’ve enormous power. This ritual is an essential ele-
provided some options. And since what is served ment in the spiritual glue that holds us together
at the table starts with choices at the grocery as families and communities. Learning to pre-
store (or farmers’ market), I thought I’d better pare and eat simple, whole foods that the earth
get pretty detailed about what deserves a spot in naturally provides can transform lives.
the grocery cart.
Feeding the whole family is not just about what —Cynthia Lair
you and your spouse and your offspring ingest for October 2007
dinner. It’s also about all the ripples that result

 introduction to the third edition

 Wholesome Family Eating
W
   hen my daughter was young I read and free colon cancer screening tests—all in the
aloud to her several books that were same store! The number of choices and amount
set in the late 1800s in this country. of stimuli are overwhelming. The question,
Only 100-plus years ago, our great-grandparents what should we eat for dinner? has ten thousand
created a dinner plate very different from what is answers. And there are several thousand more
typical today. Food on the table was, for the most choices of what to do after dinner.
part, grown, raised, caught, or shot. The only If I don’t have my priorities in place, a trip to
fresh fruits and vegetables available were what the grocery store can be like getting lost in the
grew in season in one’s climate. Often, folks ate woods. Not only do I function better with a list in
the same foods day after day. Corn mush and rab- hand, but I need a clear concept of what is healthy
bit stew was a regular hit on the prairie. Day after and wholesome and what isn’t. I want our hard-
day, Laura and Mary, in Little House on the Prairie, earned family dollars to buy food that will vitalize
ate corn mush. I felt so relieved when summer our bodies, minds, and spirits.
came, and they got to go blackberry picking. In this book I have carved out my own inter-
In the summer I sometimes visit Wichita, Kan- pretation of the more-than-ample information
sas, to see my family. My sister’s house is near a available about nutrition. I have used research
big suburban supermarket. This place has every- and data from today, as well as some of the simple
thing! There is every imaginable kind of food common sense of yesteryear. The information
available. People push giant grocery carts piled isn’t meant to be the final word for you or for me. I
high with packages of every color, shape, and size. encourage you to start your own journey with food
Besides a vast array of food, there’s a post office, a and health. Once you truly understand the power
paperback book section, video rentals, a banking you hold as you stroll down a grocery store aisle,
facility, dry cleaners, a prescription drug counter, your dinner plate may never look the same.
What Do We Mean by In our culture we maintain a very mechanistic
Wholesome? view of nutrition. We dissect food in an attempt
to quantify its contents. Charts are formed to
The word “wholesome” conjures up lovely images. show us how an average carrot contains a certain
We think of rosy-cheeked children running and number of calories, so many milligrams of this,
playing in the sunshine, or a tidy house where international units of that, and grams of such
there are clean cotton sheets on the beds, a simple and such. Then we take an “average” 8-year-old
wood table for meals, and the smell of homemade weighing so many pounds and walking this many
bread. The word can also suggest something about kilometers a week and decide how many units of
a person’s character, hinting at openness, hon- each of these macro- and micronutrients he or
esty, and a wealth of common sense. When the she will use up. After the data is gathered, some-
word “wholesome” is linked to food, the adjec- one attempts to crunch the numbers and make
tives “health-giving,” “fresh,” and “naturally pro- recommendations about how many units of each
duced” come to mind. We might picture a pot of of the nutrients need to be poured into the model
freshly made vegetable soup, a basket of apples, or child to make sure the machine works. That’s one
the local farmers’ market with its bounty of color- way of thinking about it.
ful produce. Sounds good. It is true that knowing something about the
As parents we want our children to have a nutrient content of food can be helpful in deter-
wholesome upbringing to establish a steady mining what is wholesome. Be aware, however,
base from which they can eventually contrib- that we have identified and named only a tiny
ute to the world. The most primary way to fulfill percent of all the miraculous nutrients that foods
that intention is by providing nourishing food are composed of. In the early nineteenth century,
for our children to eat. Yet most of our informa- protein, carbohydrates, and fat were named as
tion about how to do that is conflicting. The lat- compounds all foods were composed of. The sec-
est scientific research is sometimes at odds with ond wave of discovery about nutrition came when
common sense. The American diet lacks history. vitamins and minerals were identified. We found
Aside from apple pie and hot dogs, we don’t seem that for the macronutrients to metabolize in the
to have an undercurrent of traditional foods and body, certain vitamins and minerals had to also
flavors that have built our children and our chil- be present. Recently, another set of nutrients in
dren’s children to be strong. And so we are easily food plants were uncovered, polyphenols. There
swayed by facts, figures, and the latest fad diets. are hundreds of these compounds, and they give
Food manufacturers leap on evidence uncovered plants the things they need to manufacture not just
in a research project, identify a microscopic sub- vitamins, minerals, and various antioxidants—but
stance, and get their media machines to make us also flavor!
believe that we won’t survive without it. The fear Consider, too, that feeding a family must be
factor has been set in motion. The quality and more than a math quiz. Vitamins and minerals
integrity of the original food source is usually and grams of whatever are good to know about,
lost in exchange for quantity. Money is made, but but we have to take their presence on faith—they
I don’t believe anyone’s health is preserved. are invisible to us. When you eat kale, your taste

 feeding the whole family

 What is a Whole Food?
To determine whether a food is whole or not, we must be conscious when making food choices.
Before we put a bite of it in our mouths, before we heat it up, before we even decide to toss it
in our grocery cart, there needs to be a moment, a second, when we consider where the food
came from. What was its life like before it came to be on this grocery store shelf? Foods that
are in boxes can be pretty mysterious. For simple whole foods, foods that don’t need a list of
ingredients, imagining what their journey was like is easier. I have found that the best way to
determine whether a food is whole or not is to ask these questions:

Can I imagine it growing?

It is easy to picture a wheat field or an apple on a tree. Tough to picture a field of marshmal-
lows. I know of no streams where one can scoop up a bucket of diet soda, no trees where one
can pick Froot Loops.

How many ingredients does it have?

A whole food has only one ingredient—itself. No label of ingredients is necessary on simple
foods like apples, salmon, and wild rice.

What’s been done to the food since it was harvested?

The less, the better. Many foods we eat no longer resemble anything found in nature. Stripped,
refined, bleached, injected, hydrogenated, chemically treated, irradiated, and gassed, modern
foods have literally had the life taken out of them. Read the list of ingredients on the labels: if
you can’t pronounce it or can’t imagine it growing, don’t eat it. If it is not something that you
could possibly make in your kitchen or grow in a garden, be wary. For example, you can make
tofu, but you can’t make isolated soy protein.

Is this product “part” of a food or the “whole” entity?

Juice is only a part of a fruit. Oil is only part of the olive. When you eat
a lot of partial foods, your body in its natural wisdom will crave the
parts it didn’t get.

How long has this food been known to nourish human beings?
Sounds rough, but my criterion is a thousand years. Okay maybe a cou-
ple of hundred. Putting something on my toast or in my tea that the FDA
approved last month warrants caution. Time and again the rush to put
a new drug, supplement, or food additive on the market has had ques-
tionable long-term effects. Most whole foods have been on the dinner
table for centuries.

wholesome family eating 

buds can’t compute how many milligrams of cal- Our children deserve the best
cium, vitamin A, and vitamin C are present. We
need to expand our criteria for how to choose and One need only look at the health statistics of our
ingest food, employing not just data and research children to realize that changing the way we eat is
reported by the media, but also our senses. Sight, critical. Of our children ages 6 to 19, 30 percent
smell, touch, taste, and intuition are equally are overweight and 15 percent are obese. These
important. are staggering figures. With obesity comes a
Study a raspberry. Who could make such a higher prevalence of diabetes, hypertension, and
voluptuous, tasty thing? Who designed it to gen- orthopedic complications in our children, not
tly pull off the vine when it is ripe to perfection, to mention the devastating psychosocial effects.
to have all those succulent rosy red pockets of Among 3- to 17-year-olds, 8 percent have a
juicy flavor? Only sun, water, and fertile soil can learning disability (7 percent have ADHD). And
make this good fruit. Humans depend on simple 12 percent of our children have been diagnosed
whole foods like the raspberry, as well as other with asthma. Children under 6 years of age get an
plants and the animals that eat the plants, to cre- average of 6 to 8 colds a year. Some sources put
ate the tissue and blood and milk that form our the figure at closer to one a month for school-age
children and our children’s children. Let’s begin children! All of these maladies cannot be ascribed
by defining the concept of a “whole food,” for this to diet alone, but why not feed our children the
will lead us to wholesomeness. best food possible and create a better chance for
good health?
This country produces 3,900 calories of food
Why Choose Whole Foods? each day for every person. This represents a
Until the last century, humans have survived on huge excess of food that advertisers coax us to
whole foods found in nature. As industrialization consume. Obviously, we need to eat less and
and agribusiness made headway, refined foods move more, but we also need to serve our chil-
became not only available, but also popular. Our dren higher quality food. Empty calories from
attraction to these fractionated foods may be out highly refined foods like high-fructose corn
of habit and convenience rather than true appe- syrup (Americans eat 83 pounds a year per per-
tite. A whole food harvested in season, with very son of this!) contribute to weight gain and little
little transportation time to the market, is at its else. Synthetic sweeteners (such as aspartame
peak in flavor. The good taste and rich color of and splenda), pesticides, hormones, antibiotics,
food is an indication that nutrients are present. preservatives, dyes, fillers, stabilizers, and other
The fiber that comes as a natural part of whole chemical concoctions found in our food are used
foods makes us feel fuller and more satisfied to increase profits, not health. Optimistically
with smaller serving sizes. Deep in our cells we they are just foreign substances the body has to
know that whole, fresh, natural foods are the best eliminate or store. Realistically they can set the
nourishment for body and soul. stage for malfunction. Nutrient-dense, fiber-
rich whole foods are more nutritious and filling
per calorie. Every calorie of a peach or a piece of

 feeding the whole family

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