elata/!

ITALIAN ICE CREAMS, SORBETTI & GRANITE ae

 $15.99
(Canada: $17.99)

For Italians, pausing to enjoy a scoop of intensely flavored,

velvety gelato is a favorite pastime that requires no special
occasion. It’s an excuse to take an afternoon stroll or
visit with others at the neighborhood gelateria, where
the proprietor uses only premium ingredients and age-
old techniques to handcraft the world’s best ice cream.
Every Italian town and city has its own beloved ge/aterie,
offering seasonal specialties and family recipes that have
been handed down for generations. Pamela Sheldon Johns
gives us the grand tour of these gel/aterie, tracing gelato’s
roots back to Sicily and uncovering the secrets of great
gelato making.

Gelati and its fruit-based cousins, sorbetti and granite,

are richer than ordinary ice creams and sherberts yet less
fattening and sweet. And the best news is that authentic
gelato, and even the waffle cones they are often served
in, are surprisingly easy to make at home!

As with most foods in Italy, each region has its own special
flavors and interpretations. In Gelato! you'll find these local
favorites and more, including:

¢ Blood Orange—Campari Sorbetto

* Chocolate-Hazelnut Gelato
¢ Blackberry-Sangiovese Sorbetto
¢ Almond Granita
¢ Caramel Semifreddo

More than 50 recipes for gelato and other desserts made with
this sumptuous, icy treat glisten and tempt in glorious pho-
tographs. Gelato! captures the flavors, places, and passions
that have inspired many a culinary pilgrimage to Italy.
fh
‘ge
Ge ICE CREAMS, SORBETT!I & GRANITE

TEXT & RECIPES BY PAMELA SHELDON JOHNS

PRODUCED BY JENNIFER BARRY DESIGN

' PHOTOGRAPHY BY JOYCE OUDKERK POOL

18
TEN SPEED PRESS
Berkeley
 Text copyright © 2000, 2008 Pameia Sheldon Johns and Jennifer Barry Design
Photographs copyright © 1999 Joyce Oudkerk Pool
Photographs on pages 6, 12, 15, 58-59 copyright © Pamela Sheldon Johns
Photograph on pages 82-83 copyright © Jennifer Barry

All rights reserved. Published in the United States by Ten Speed Press, an imprint of the
Crown Publishing Group, a division of Random House, Inc., New York.
Www.crownpublishing.com
www.tenspeed.com

Ten Speed Press and the Ten Speed Press colophon are registered trademarks of Random House, Inc.

Originally published in hardcover in the United States in 2000.

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data

Johns, Pamela Sheldon. Gelato! : Italian ice creams, sorbetti & granite / text & recipes by Pamela Sheldon Johns;
produced by Jennifer Barry Design; photography by Joyce Oudkerk Pool. p. cm.
Includes index.
1. Ice cream, ices, etc. |. Title TX795.J64 2000 641.8'62--dc21 00-023433

ISBN-13: 978-1-58008-197-9 (cloth)

ISBN-13: 978-1-58008-923-4 (paperback)

Printed in China

Concept and Design: Jennifer Barry Design, Fairfax, California

Production Assistant: Kristen Wurz
Copy Editor: Carolyn Miller
Food Stylist: Pouké
Prop Stylist: Carol Hacker/Tableprop

111098765432

First Paperback Edition

 Contents

Intreduction
6

Gelat
Sye

Sorbetti & Granite

Bye)

‘Desserts & Complements

52

Techniques & ‘Flaver Glossary

706
 Introduction

The heat of the day’s sun is waning as we take our after-dinner History
stroll, the traditional passegg/ata
that fills the streets with families Who invented frozen desserts? The Bible tells us that Isaac offered

chatting and nodding hellos as they pass. Facing the bustle of Abraham goat milk mixed with snow. The Chinese recorded eating

this joyful street scene, a sparkling glass case beckons. A hand- a refreshing iced mixture as early as 200 B.C. From there, the

printed sign, Nostra Produzione (Our Production), dangles over process of making frozen sweets probably found its way to India

the pastel rainbow of stainless-steel tubs filled with freshly made and then Persia, and was brought to Sicily by the Arabs. In early

gelato, promising that the gelato is made on the premises. Another, Rome of A.D. 1, Emperor Nero Claudius Caesar was said to have

smaller sign, Produzione Artigianale (Artisan Production), is taped had his slaves bring him snow and ice to be flavored with honey

inside the window. Our passegg/ata is interrupted by the pleasure and fruits. In the seventh century, something known as sharbet,

of selecting two or three flavors of this handcrafted gelato to a crushed ice drink flavored with local fruit, was found among

fill a little paper cup. “Leccalo dalle parti, se no ti sporchi” (“Lick the Arab population of Sicily. The Greeks and the Turks made a

around the sides so it won't drip”), | hear a mother instructing lemon ice called by a similar name, serbet or sharbat, which

a toddler with a creamy chocolate-filled cone. literally means “fresh beverage.” Other sources report that Marco

Eating gelato, like drinking espresso, is a favorite Italian Polo returned to Italy with a recipe for sherbet from the Far East

pastime. It is an opportunityto linger for conversation and people- in the twelfth century.

watching, and a way to cool down from summer's unrelenting In the ruins of the taverns of Pompeii, a device was found

heat. In the south, gelato is even eaten for breakfast, served in that was equipped with what may have been a cooling unit

a fresh brioche with a steaming cup of rich, black coffee! containing a residue of lemon, wild berries, and fish gelatin.

of
Ice vendors collected blocks of ice and conserved them in salt an envelope for Caterina, having written on the back: “With your

in large caverns, then distributed them to upper-class taverns permission | return to my chickens, hoping that they won't remind

and wealthy families. A scoop of crushed ice was served with me of the pleasures of my gelato.”

a drizzle of saba or Sapa, a sweet syrup of reduced grape In this same era, Florentine court architect and artist

must. The beverage was drunk, then the flavored ice was eaten. Bernardo Buontalenti was credited with inventing the first gelato

It must have been a true luxury in the intense heat of a to be churned over salt and ice. He built an ice cave in the Boboli

Campania summer. Palace, and served his “marvels of ge/ati” at the Medici’s many

Caterina de’ Medici, who was born in Florence and was sumptuous banquets. Buontalenti invented a way to blend

queen to Henry II in France in the mid-1500s, brought sorbetto sweetened milk with a zabaglione of Malavasia wine and egg

to France. A few years earlier, the court of the Medici in Florence yolks and then freeze it. A gelato flavor is still named after him

had held a contest to discover a “singular plate that has never today: Buontalenti, a rich, eggy gelato with a warm yellow color

been seen.” Giuseppe Ruggeri, a vendor of chicken, showed up due to the golden yolks of corn-fed chickens.

and prepared an exquisite sorbetto, and became quite famous Gelato was not only a food for the nobles. By the early

as a result. When Caterina married Henry II, she brought Ruggeri 1600s, every public square in Italy hosted a little three-wheeled

with her to challenge the French chefs. He created splendid cart of carved and painted wood selling sorbetti. Meanwhile, in

concoctions for the many heads of Europe. All of the powerful the streets, other rolling vendors made the rounds to the sound

noble families wanted to know his secrets, but Caterina refused of a little bell. In the heat of the summer, refreshing ices could

every request. Ruggeri, hated by all the cooks of the capital, be found at folk festivals and became a popular treat following

was often physically accosted. Eventually, he left the recipe in religious gatherings.
 Gelato found commercial success in France in 1686, where In Naples during the reign of the Bourbons, Duke Ippolito

it was created by Sicilian Francesco Procopio dei Coltelli at the Cavalcanti di Bonvicino, as a hobby, wrote the /rattato di cucina

Café Procope in Paris. Procopio was a young man full of talent teorico-practica (The Theory and Practice of the Kitchen),

and enthusiasm. His grandfather, Francesco, a fisherman, had dedicating an entire chapter to the art of making sorbetti. One

tried to invent a little machine for the preparation of sorbetto, of the recipes was for a chocolate sorbetto made with sugar

but he had not succeeded in making it work. The young Francesco, syrup, using snow. He also described “gelati al forno,” created

tired of the fishing life, decided to see if he could find the secret. by a Bari pastry cook, Felice Lippolis: two slices of pan di Spagna

After many tries, he discovered the two principles for its success: made into a sandwich stuffed with gelato. Another, more com-

using sugar in place of the honey, and adding salt to the ice to prehensive description for making fruit ge/at/ was included in

make it last longer. With the “fever of the gelato,” he headed up /! Re dei cuochi, an Italian cookbook published in 1885: “Fill a

to Paris and opened a shop near the Comédie-Francaise, whose bucket with crushed ice and salt, set a second metal bucket

noble and scholarly patrons embraced his offerings of iced fruits with the ingredients in it, and churn the ingredients vigorously

and almond milk sorbets. for about an hour, or until the mixture is creamy and smooth.”

Meanwhile, gelato found its way to England in 1650, in In the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries, it was believed

the court of King Charles |, whose pastry chef was Italian. Another that sorbets had beneficial digestive properties. The tradition of

Italian, Alessandro Tortoni, became famous in Paris at his Café serving sorbet between heavy courses, still occasionally seen

Napolitain at the end of the eighteenth century, creating a frozen in fine dining establishments, was initiated. Today, some modern

dessert that bears his name. Without a doubt, whether they cookbooks include recipes for “digestive” sorbetti, flavored with

invented it or not, Italians were the emissaries of the gelato gospel. basil, sage, celery, tomato, and even lettuce.
 The word gelato is the past participle of the Italian verb lower in fat, often with no more than 6 to 7 percent butterfat,

gelare, to freeze. The term is often used in Italy for any frozen gelato has much more flavor than American ice cream. This is

dessert, whether milk or water-based. In the most common defi- because fat tends to coat the mouth, blocking the experience of

nition, ge/ati
are made from milk-based mixtures and sorbetti the fresh and natural flavor. In addition, the best ge/aterie use

and granite are fruit-based. Sorbetto, called sorbet in French, full-flavored seasonal products, maximizing the essence of the

is made from juice or strained fruit purée, whereas cremolata main ingredient. Another reason for the intense flavors is that

is made with unstrained puréed gelato is kept at a warmer freez-

fruit. Granita is fruit-flavored icy ing temperature. The consistency

granules, coarser than sorbetto, is dense and velvety, with less air

so slushy that in hot weather it beaten into it. The softer texture

is best served in a glass. Ideally, glides through the mouth, and

ie
gelati, sorbetti, and granite should because it is not so cold, the taste

be made daily in small batches buds do not become numb with

with no added chemical preserva- freezing, but are open to accept

tives, emulsifiers, or stabilizers. more of the flavor.

Gelato, sorbetto, and granita flavors run the gamut from As with most foods in Italy, each region has a local inter-

seasonal fresh fruits to popular essences including coffee and pretation, whether in style or in the use of local ingredients. In

chocolate or liqueurs such as vin santo, Marsala, limoncello, or the south, particularly in Sicily, gelato made with milk or fresh

even grappa. Each bite packs a wallop of sensory stimulation, a cheese may be thickened with a vegetable starch rather than with

celebration of the primary ingredient undisguised by additives eggs. In central Italy, the base is a custard made with milk and

or cloying, heavy ingredients that mask the original flavor. Though eggs. In the north, the custard is richer, made by adding cream.

LO
 Your first decision on entering a gelateria is how much in, a technique that prevents the dessert from freezing com-

gelato you want to eat. In most ge/aterie you pay first, then take pletely. Also included in this category are mousses and

your receipt to the counter to request your choice of flavors. molded desserts. Cassate and bombe are popular desserts of

Most often gelato is served from a little cup, usually paper, and two or more flavors of gelato frozen in a domed, flat, round, or

eaten with a tiny, flat spade-shaped plastic spoon. Often, a heart-shaped pan. Individual molds or frozen slices are called

display on the countertop shows the prices on samples. The pezzi duri. Another prevalent dessert is a variety of gelato

smallest usually start at 1,500 to cake called torta gelato, made

2,000 lire, about a dollar. The size with gelato layered with sponge

of the cup determines the number cake, meringue, candied fruit,

of flavors you can choose, and cookie crumbs, and/or ladyfin-

don’t be surprised if the ge/ataio gers. Many of these desserts,

(the gelato maker) recommends such as a panettone filled with

complementary flavors. You can gelato, a favorite holiday sweet,

also request an assaggio, a taste, are made at home with purchased

before making your final decision. gelati. The name for spumoni

Most ge/aterie also offer cones, though you may see the Italians comes from spuma, which means foam. It is a light dessert,

eat the gelato first with a spoon, then consume the cone. usually an egg-based gelato filled with semifreddo. Zuccotto is

A number of desserts have been developed using ge/atior made in a similar way, with the addition of.a layer of pan di

sorbetti. The general classification of chilled or partially frozen Spagna, or sponge cake, which is often soaked with liqueur.

desserts is semifreddo, which means “partly cold.” It describes The Sicilian cassata has even more layers, including pan di Spagna,

desserts made from a gelato base with whipped cream folded and is covered with marzipan.

Vf
 Gelateria/bar establishments offer dramatic presentations Greeks, Romans, Spanish, Bourbons, and the French are part of

such as combinations of gelato with syrups, sauces, and whipped Sicilian cooking.

cream. One of my favorites is affogato, which literally means It is widely believed that sorbetto was adopted in the two
db
“drowned,” a scoop of gelato served in a tall glass and topped hundred years of Saracen domination. The Arabs’ “sophisticated

with brandy, grappa, or hot coffee. In the summer it is pleasant and luxurious habits,” along with their importation of sugar-

to sip ona frappé, a blended drink made with gelato and fruit or cane, citrus, and almonds, led to the development of elaborate

espresso. Sometimes it is just a Simple macedonia (fresh-fruit desserts. The moderate climate and the year-round availability

salad), topped with a scoop of gelato and panna montata (whipped of fruits made the island a perfect place to make sorbet, an art

cream). In the winter, some ge/aterie offer gelato caldo, literally the Arabs apparently learned from the Chinese. Because they

“warm gelato,” a mousse or semifreddo of seasonal fruits, such believed that sugar was healthful and had divine properties, sweet

as persimmons, or chestnuts. foods such as sorbetto were used in religious celebrations, a

tradition that continues today in many of the convents and on

A Tour of Gelaterie annual feast days.

Since gelato is said to have ancient origins in Sicily, we should Today, Sicily grows 90 percent of the citrus for the Italian

start our tour of Italian ge/aterie there. market. The fertile land surrounding Mt. Etna provides many of

Sicily’s colorful and flavorful cuisine was created from its the natural ingredients that form the base of their magnificent

sun-drenched local foods and the delicacies imported from the gelati, such as cherries from Macchia and pistachios from Bronte,

countries of its many invaders over the centuries. Spices and as well as honey, Avola almonds, walnuts, chestnuts, and wild

plants with origins in faraway lands have found their way to the strawberries. They have perfected liqueurs of lemon, mandarin,

fertile soil of this island, and the foods and culture of the Moors, Rosolio (made from flower petals and spices), laurel leaves, and
orange blossoms. Nearby Catania is famous for cassata gelata, Brown, 1997). Costanza’s specialties continue to draw “foodies,”

bricks of vanilla or hazelnut gelato with a center of candied fruit but what captured me were the aromatic sorbettiand gelatimade

and liqueur. from the blossoms of roses and jasmine flowers. His tangerine

Just south, near Siracusa, is the honey-colored town of sorbetto is the ultimate refreshing flavor on a steamy hot Sicilian

Noto. Noto was leveled in 1693 by a terrible day, bringing out the sweet essence of

earthquake, and completely rebuilt of the local fruit. Also, Costanza makes a

ornate stone in the baroque style. Among traditional granita from almond milk,

the many folkloric celebrations held there, thought to be one of the earliest types of

one of the most charming and colorful is ice made. It is made from local almonds,

the Primavera Barocca, a baroque salute which are finely chopped and left to steep

to spring. The Infiorata di Via Nicolaci, in water. The water is strained to yield a

held on the third Sunday of May, is a series intensely flavorful almond milk, which is

of mosaics made of flower petals that then sweetened and frozen to a granita.

carpet the length of the street. Some of Sicily is a food-lover’s paradise,

these aromatic flowers also end up in the made both challenging and charming by

sorbetti and gelati of Corrado Costanza, the lack of tourism. Nibbling around the

a well-known pastry and gelato maker with almost fifty years’ island by way of the coast, | found myself in Mondello, a beachy

experience. | first read about him in Nick Malgieri’s book, Great suburb of Palermo. In the early morning heat, | partook in a

Italian Desserts (Little, Brown, 1990). | found reference to him Sicilian breakfast tradition at Antico Chiosco, a gelateria and bar

again in // Buon Paese, Slow Food’s guide to Italian food experts, that serves a fresh brioche, a cornetto, filled with your choice

and again in Fred Plotkin’s /taly for the Gourmet Traveler (Little, of sorbetto. | chose raspberry.

VA Mie = i
 Palermo was the Saracen capital of Sicily in 831 and re- just across from one of Palermo’s busy train stations, | found

mains the capital of the island today. It is a busy port, with all of the best pistachio gelato | have ever tasted. Among the forty

the bustle of a major city’s commerce, and reflects the diversity flavors, | spotted the drab green tub immediately; it tasted

of its history. Food is celebrated with elaborate dishes created like a creamy mouthful of aromatic pistachios. Much to my sur-

from the abundant supply of local and prise, right next to it was another tub with

international ingredients. A visit to the the same label, a mound of fluorescent

colorful Arab-style shopping streets of green gelato. When | asked the brothers

Ballaro or Via della Vucciria reveals a rich Stancampiano which one they sold the

source of local fresh and prepared prod- most of, one told me the natural version

ucts, as well as those from North Africa, sold more. He explained, “We make the

the Mediterranean, and other parts of real pistachio one for the adults; the

Europe. At night, when shopkeepers illu- brightly colored one is for the bimbi,” the

minate their wares with fantastically bright little children, who are attracted to its

lights, all of your senses are bombarded. neon glow. The natural pistachio is made

In the heart of the city is Gelateria of fresh pistachios, from Bronte in west-

Stancampiano. In the tradition of his ern Sicily. It is made by creaming the nuts

father before him, Umberto Stancampiano founded the business in a centrifuge at 45,000 spins per minute. As they become a

in the current location in 1974 and now runs it with the help paste, the sugar and the milk are added. The mixture is then

of his brother, Giovanni, and their children. In fact, the whole pasteurized, cooled, and put in the machine to churn.

family works in the food business; other brothers run the The second brother responded differently to my question;

nearby pasticceria and bar a half-block away. In the gelato kiosk, his impression was that they sold more of the brightly colored

Oe ee one ba
gelato. “It is made with a typical regional base called pasta reale, and delivered in plastic tubs that fit right into the display unit. It

which is made of marzipan and artificial color. Because of the is even possible to call the gelato artigianale, or artisan, by using

sugar in the pasta reale, it is sweeter and tastes more of almonds a premade mix that is poured into a machine to be churned on

than pistachios,” but, as he explained, “The people love it because site. But in order to have a natural product, made from fresh

pasta reale is the ingredient used to make the molded fruits and fruit without the stabilizers and emulsifiers needed for the instant

figures which are so popular here. It’s a typical taste of Sicily, to kinds of ge/ati, much more time and labor are necessary.

which they are accustomed.” | learned about this when | spent a half day with Antonio

The gelateria is open almost year-round, closing only from Lisciandro. Lisciandro’s family came from Sicily. His father and

mid-Decemberto mid-January, and sometimes it doesn’t close grandfather were gelato makers; his family has been in the busi-

at all. The “regular” business hours are from 9 A.M. to 4 A.M., ness for eighty-eight years. Antonio started working with them

when the brothers cater to all kinds of customers, from teen- when he was fifteen. He and his wife, Loredana, have run the

agers who spend their afternoons sitting on their motorini parked inspired Gelateria Carabe in Florence on via Ricasoli, near the

in front of the shop, to small children buying tiny cones that Accademia, for ten years, and he has just opened a new gelateria

have been dipped in chocolate and frozen. Sunday is a popular in Vittoria Apuana, a suburb of Forte dei Marmi on the Tuscan coast.

day to pick up a torta gelato, one of their molded desserts. In With an impressive backdrop of marble, Vittoria Apuana is a sum-

the winter, the crowds still gather for the gelato caldo: semifreddi mer retreat with abundant markets, lush green summer growth,

and gelato mousses. hotels with private beaches, and a gelateria every few meters.

How is gelato made? There is great variation in the answer “My art is the transformation of the materie prime, the

to this question. Some gelaterie buy the gelato already made main ingredients, which must be ofthe highest quality,” Antonio
explains, “A good example is the conversion of a tree to a The gelati are kept at the lowest possible temperature to

table. The quality of the table will only be as good as the quality maintain their structure while not freezing them too hard. Gelati

of the wood and the craftsmanship used to make it. Gelato is a with more fat need colder temperatures, up to -10°C (the freezing

living product; it evolves. My goal is how | can make the best temperature for milk mixtures) to -14°C. /ndustriale gelati, with

possible gelati.” their high fat content, need to be kept colder, down to —22°C.

Handmade gelato is lower in fat than its commercial coun- Antonio says, “In the summer, my customers prefer flavors with

terpart. /ndustriale, as the Italians call a nonartisan product, low-fat and low-sugar content; it takes three times longer to

needs more fat and stabilizers to maintain the molecular struc- digest high-fat ge/ati. And, the flavor is better; it cleans and

ture and antioxidants to maintain color. Gelato is made by two refreshes the mouth. Milk-based ge/ati make you feel that you

actions, chilling and stirring. The purpose of the stirring is to need to have a drink of water.”

add air, but not too much. Antonio’s gelato has a maximum of In accordance with Italian sanitation laws, Antonio pas-

30 percent air, and usually 20 to 25 percent, depending on the teurizes the milk and egg mixtures at 90°C for 4 minutes, then

gelato. /ndustriale is 60 percent air, much of which Is artificially cools them to 4°C for 25 minutes. When | asked him if he was

blown in to increase the volume. discouraged about the loss of flavor caused by using such high

For the most part, Antonio makes his ge/ati, sorbetti, and heat, he responded, “It is a necessary process; it pasteurizes

granite with only fruit, sugar, and water or milk. In some cases the ingredients and kills the bacteria.”

he uses carruba, a natural stabilizer made of carob bean gum. Antonio’s secret for excellent ge/ati is “excellent ingredi-

In low-fat mixtures, it prevents the formation of ice crystals by ents. My lemons, pistachios, and fichi d’/ndia [cactus pears]

absorbing some of the extra water. come from Sicily. You can’t use a recipe, because every fruit is

lip
~
 puss se er

different every day—sometimes they are very ripe and don't ten. | like people.” And it’s a good thing, for the line spills out

need as much sugar, sometimes they do.” the door, especially on Sundays when customers buy their

Even though Antonio lives in Tuscany, his style is very much gelato by the kilo. Guido keeps one machine next to the dis-

reminiscent of his Sicilian roots. | went to Guido Ballerini to play counter running almost constantly to replenish directly to

experience a historical Tuscan perspective. His family’s ge/ateria, the stainless-steel tubs. He explains, “We make ten to twelve

Il Fantino, goes back four gen- flavors at the most. | have to start

erations in Campi Bisenzio, a Sub- at six in the morning, and we’re

urb of Florence. Great grandfather usually not done until midnight.

Giuseppe, known as || Fantino At the end of the day there is

(the jockey), due to his short nothing left; we start completely

stature, delivered gelati on his fresh in the morning.”

bicycle. Guido’s grandfather, also Guido’s grandfather and

named Guido, followed in great-grandfather offered fewer

his footsteps, making the rounds flavors, but the quality of ingre-

with a little cart pulled with a bicycle. His son, Giancarlo, mod- dients was always the most important thing, a philosophy that

ernized the business and used a Lambretta scooter. has endured in each generation. The base they used is now called

Today, Giancarlo’s three sons, Guido, Claudio, Marco, and crema vecchia maniera, old-style crema, or custard. Sugar and

his daughter, Carla, run a small store in this business suburb. egg yolks were beaten and added to hot milk and cream, then

Carla says, “I’ve worked here for thirty-four years, since | was churned. In the past, the only flavoring used was vanilla, or
 Cr '

ar cones, can

be traced back to ‘European

cookie makers in the

fifteenth century, specifically

ihe Viennese waffeln, or

wafers which were cooked

on special irons.

One of Ttaly’s most

popular cialde companies

is Babbi. Gianluigi Babbi

carries. on the family

tradition begun in 1953 in

‘Romagna. The company

alse makes cookie wafers

of all shapes and sizes,

some filled with vanilla er

chocolate, others dipped

in chocolate.
es
ant si

we

ne i‘sy
ae

a7
. [
ae
ane
ia}
sometimes Marsala. Today, Guido might add ground coffee, lemon along with chopped chocolate and candied orange peel.

zest, of maybe cinnamon. His modern-day base utilizes the Piero sliced the pan di Spagna into 1/4-inch-thick slices

same ingredients; the only difference is in the pasteurization, a and lined a smooth-sided mold with them, filling in any open

hotter and lengthier exposure to high temperatures. spaces with custom-cut wedges. He then soaked the cake

A visit to Florence isn’t complete without a stop at with liqueur. He spooned in the whipped cream and sprinkled

Vivoli, renowned gelateria since 1930. Piero Vivoli and his it with a layer of chocolate. This was topped with a layer of

daughter Silvana preside over an pan di Spagna that was soaked

immaculate and enormous again, and another layer of

laboratorio, or workshop, while whipped cream sprinkled with

mother Simonetta and sister the candied orange peel. This

Patrizia work the counter. In layering is continued until the

spite of the amazing volume of dish is full, with one last layer

gelato produced, Vivoli remains Ebi fe) of pan di Spagna to cover. Placed
Ve rent

committed to using fresh and in the freezer for at least two

wholesome ingredients. hours, the zuccotto never com-

In addition to numerous ge/ati and sorbetti served by the pletely freezes, due to the alcohol in the cake and the high fat

cup (no cones used here), they also are masters of torte, gelato content of the whipped cream. But it chills firmly enough that

cakes. One of their specialties is zuccotto, a typical Tuscan it can be sliced when unmolded (see recipe, page 94).

dessert. Piero gave me a lesson in putting one together. First, In Cuneo, in southern Piedmont, cheerful Claudio Elli

he assembled all of the necessary ingredients: pan di Spagna, began studying the art of gelato and pastry in the 1950s. In

or homemade sponge cake, and cream whipped with sugar, 1969, he moved with his wife, Maria Antonetta Boglione, a legal

Lap
secretary, to Alessandria to open Cremeria del Corso. He started are jars of freshly preserved fruit purées and nut pastes. Claudio

with a small bar-ge/ateria- pasticceria, offering only a few high- pulls me aside and points around the kitchen: “Pulita, pulita,

quality items in each section, along with the best coffee. He pulita. . .” His passion for cleanliness and purity is evident.as |

was an immediate success, and soon his wife came to work watch him wash strawberries three times, using a little bicarbonate

with him. The great flood of 1994 dam- of soda to disinfect them.

aged his workshop, so the next year they Enrico explains, “We use only fresh

decided to completely renovate and to seasonal and local products, without the

expand to a grand cafe with two floors addition of any type of semi-industrial or

and 150 seats. Claudio’s two sons, Enrico industrial product, or something not made

and Giampiero, came to work with him. by nature.” He has researched the best

Inthe summer, cafe tables set under source for each of his ingredients, using,

umbrellas invite passersby to pause in their for example, milk from Milan, even though

passeggiata on the cobbled pedestrian- local milk would cost less. Though he can

only Corso Roma to enjoy “gelato viene buy prepasteurized whole eggs and egg

prodotto giornalmente solo con materie whites, he prefers to use fresh.

prime naturali: uova, latte, panna, zucchero Claudio, smiling as always, interjects,

é frutta di stagione’: “gelato made daily only with the best-quality “The gelato should be soft like butter,” yet they churn it for only

natural ingredients: eggs, milk, cream, sugar, and seasonal fruit.” fifteen minutes for about 15 percent air volume. How do they

One look at the kitchen, Enrico’s domain, tells the whole get that consistency without stabilizers? Because the gelato is

story. Everything sparkles, from the gelato-making units to the made daily, and doesn’t need to be as stable as gelato that is

pristine stainless-steel counters and shelves. On the shelves held for several days or longer. They also use a cooked meringue

\s &
that is folded in, giving the ge/atiand sorbettia silky consistency potato ricer to make a mound of spaghetti-like threads that

and body. As Enrico prepared a batch of nocciola, or hazelnut, is “sauced” with a fresh strawberry “ragu” and topped with

gelato, | began to understand his commitment to quality. It starts crumbled amaretti that look like pieces of grated cheese.

with the kind of hazelnut, tonda delle Langhe, a local variety Gelateria Stancampiano, Carabe, II Fantino, and Cremeria

determined by professional chefs to have the best flavor and del Corso are examples of artisan producers who take their

aroma for pastry and gelato. Even though it is local, it still costs work seriously. At the other end of the artisanal spectrum lie

more than hazelnuts from Turkey, the industrial producers who

Sicily, or Campania. “But,” Enrico make the gelato available in

says, “because the flavor is so Supermarkets or in freezer cases

intense, you use less,” and he in many bars. Multinational busi-

pulls down a jar of paste that he nesses such as Unilever and

has ground himself. Nestlé own Italian divisions that

The parlor menu lists a va- make popular stick ice creams.

riety of gelato compositions: There is no denying the popu-

castagne di bosco, made with larity of these products, which

marron glacé or chocolate gelato and whipped cream, and topped sell for only 800 lire (about 35 cents).

with candied chestnuts and hot chocolate sauce; gianduiotto There does exist an industrial producer, however, who

features the superb local hazelnuts in a classic combination of maintains all of the integrity of a one-man gelateria. Along the

mounds of hazelnut and chocolate gelato, garnished with hazel- Tuscan coast to the south, in Castiglioncello, Dai Dai is a small-

nut praline and caramel sauce. Enrico’s playful side is displayed scale gelato company specializing in chocolate-coated gelato

in the whimsical “spaghetti,” crema gelato pressed through a desserts. Antonio Bartoletti is best known for Cassatina Dai Dai,

wey Sl
 Oo

An artisanal producer

is easily recognized by the

equipment in fits er her

kitchen. ‘Industrial gelato

requires only one machine:

The premixed base mixture

is poured in, and gelato

comes out. The artisan

requires separate machines

to control each step of

—" the process: pasteurization

Fi Seri
"emp
of the natural raw ingre-

dients, homogenization,

and freezing.

cy
the uae 1s: Jone by hank
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a brick of gelato with pine nuts, coffee, chocolate, or plain cream, the toasting of the pine nuts to the whipping of the cream, and

covered in chocolate, and bocconcini, bite-sized chocolate-coated most importantly, the cutting of the bricks and dipping them by

gelato cubes. He also produces pezzi duri, slices of fruit and hand in chocolate. The bricks are even packaged by hand in

cream sorbetti. printed brown wrappers; the blocks are then placed one at a

The name Dai Dai, which means “give it to me,” originated time into boxes made of pure cellulose.

from a man named Signore Tancredi who, in 1920, sold gelato The ingredients are the best available, such as milk from

from a little cart pulled by a Piedmont, Pernigotti chocolate,

mule in Castiglioncello. Antonio and pine nuts from Pisa grown

started his business in 1984, and by a family who have been in that

for the first five years he person- business for four generations.

ally made deliveries in his little Other ingredients listed on the

Fiorino, sometimes driving all packaging are “fresh cream and

the way to Milan with only two fresh milk from the dairy, egg

boxes. When the business began yolk quality A, sugar, wheat flour.”

to take off, he calculates he One stabilizer, gelatin, is used.

drove 150,000 kilometers (90,000 miles) in a year. All of these artisinal gelato makers described here make

Antonio walked me through the process of making Cassatina their products in volume using large equipment, but the methods

Dai Dai. Three women (he calls them his bambine; most have are the same as what we will do at home: selection of high-

worked with him for at least ten years) produce 200 kilograms quality ingredients, pasteurization (heating raw dairy and eggs

(440 pounds) of the bricks per day, in small batches. They work to the proper temperature), homogenization (mixing), chilling,

quickly, and all of the work is done completely by hand, from and churning.
Making Gelato at Home science to the combination of ingredients and the techniques

Making your own gelato may be even better than buying it. Be- for freezing. For example, the more sugar or alcohol you use,

cause the batch will be small, with very little air churned the less the gelato or sorbetto will freeze. If you use too much

in, the result will be creamy and delicious. Because you will of either, the mixture won't freeze at all. On the other hand, too

probably eat it the day it is made, the gelato will be fresh, and little sugar will affect the texture, making it grainy. Texture can

will not need stabilizers. The best results occur with the best also be controlled by the temperature when freezing, especially

ingredients. Seasonal ripe fruit when you use ice and salt. Cold,

is essential. Even the water is fast churning (using a lot of salt)

important: Use spring water, fil- yields a coarser dessert; using

tered, or bottled water, especially less salt and a longer churning

in areas where the tap water has time makes the gelato silkier.

been heavily treated. Adding liqueur gives gelato

As Leonardo da Vinci said, a new flavor dimension. Grand

“Quelli che si innamorano di sola Marnier and Cointreau are orange

pratica senza scienza so come liqueurs, while Moscato has

l'nocchier che entra un navilio senza timon o bussola, che mai slightly less orange essence. Kirsch (cherry) and Chambord

ha certezza dove si vada”: “Those enamored of practice without (raspberry) liqueurs both go well with pears or chocolate. Fora

science are like the navigator who enters a boat without a com- hazelnut essence, try Frangelico. Some other, more rare, essences

pass and never knows with certainty where he is going.” You include Averna, a typical Sicilian favorite with a bitter coffee

can adjust gelato and sorbetto recipes somewhat, according to and chocolate taste, and Rosolio, made from rose petals, jasmine

your personal taste and the maturity of the fruit, but there is a flowers, and orange blossoms, sometimes spiced with cinnamon
;

TAMEALLS
Pe
 and cloves. Galliano is an old favorite made with herbs, berries, a chicken that is roasted in an electric oven versus one that

and spices, with tones of vanilla and anise. has been roasted in a gas oven or another cooked in a wood-

Hard liquors can enhance iced desserts as well. Grappa burning oven.”

spikes the taste of sorbetti: it is especially good with pear, Probably the easiest, least messy method is using one of

currant, and raspberry. Rum and cognac warm up grape, peach, the top-of-the-line machines with a built-in freezing unit. There

and apple sorbetti as well as some milk-based gelati. But is no ice and no salt to deal with. All you do is put the chilled

remember: Too much alcohol will keep gelato or sorbetto from mixture into the bowl, and in about thirty minutes you have

freezing completely. The higher the proof of the alcohol, the fresh gelato. The bowls are easy to remove and clean. Three

less you can use. See guidelines on page 106. brands to look for are Il Gelataio Magnum, manufactured in

Because it has no stabilizers, homemade gelato doesn’t Italy by Simac; Lussino, manufactured in Italy by Musso, a

keep in the freezer well: it becomes too hard. Better to make high-tech-looking unit with a stainless-steel external finish; and

the base mixture ahead (up to three days) and keep it chilled the Robot Coupe Piccolo.

until you are ready to churn. If the recipe calls for folding in But since gelato doesn’t need tons of air churned into it,

whipped cream or beaten egg whites, wait until you’re ready even the simplest ice cream maker will work. Several manual

to churn before completing this step. and electric units, such as Donvier, Krups, and Cuisinart, have

The first manual gelato-making machines came out at metal liners which are prefrozen, also eliminating the need for

the end of nineteenth century, and the first successful electric ice and salt. The drawback is that you can only make one batch,

version came out in 1929, created by Otello Cattabriga of Bologna, as you will need to wait until the liner has time to freeze again.

who is still producing commercial equipment for ge/aterie. White Mountain still makes old-fashioned wooden ice

Choosing the right gelato machine makes a difference; cream churns with a hand-crank as well as electric versions

it is, as Antonio Lisciandro says, “. . . like the difference in that maintain the tradition without the effort.

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Mascarpone Gelato Vanilla Gelato

East of Florence, in the village of Vanilla, my daughter's faverite flaver,

San Francesce, Gelateria Sottani makes mascarpene is net very commen wn the Ttalian gelaterie. When

gelato with pine nuts. Here is my version. available, it is knewn as fier di latte.

2 cups whole milk 11/2 cups heavy cream

2 cups heavy cream 11/2 cups whole milk

2/3 cup Sugar 1 cup sugar

1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise 1/2 vanilla bean, split lengthwise

2 cups (16 ounces) mascarpone cheese at room temperature

In a medium saucepan, combine the cream, milk, and sugar.
1 teaspoon grated lemon zest
Cook over medium heat, stirring until the sugar is dissolved,

2/3 cup pine nuts, toasted (see page 106) then cook until bubbles form around the edges of the pan. Remove

from heat. Add the vanilla bean, scraping the seeds into the

In a medium saucepan, combine the milk, cream, and sugar. milk, and let stand for 30 minutes. Cover and refrigerate for at

Cook over medium heat, stirring until the sugar is dissolved, least 2 hours, or until thoroughly chilled.

then cook until bubbles form around the edges of the pan. Remove Remove the vanilla pod and transfer the mixture to an ice

from heat. Add the vanilla bean, scraping the seeds into the milk, cream maker. Freeze according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

and let stand for 30 minutes. Cover and refrigerate for at least 2 Makes 1 quart; serves 4

hours, or until thoroughly chilled.

Remove the vanilla pod. Stir in the mascarpone, lemon zest,

and pine nuts. Transfertoan ice cream maker and freeze according

to the manufacturer's instructions. Makes 11/2 quarts; serves 6

So for Aaa
 Stracciatella Chestnut Honey Gelato
This ts one of my favorite Ttalian ice creams. The smoky flavor of chestnut honey is

The chocolate pieces are so fine they seem ta have intensely apparent in this rich gelato. For a lighter flaver,

been shaved or finely grated. substitute orange blossem or lavender honey.

11/2 cups heavy cream 2 cups whole milk

11/2 cups whole milk 1/2 cup chestnut honey

11/4 cups sugar 1 cup heavy cream

1/2 vanilla bean, split lengthwise

In a medium saucepan, heat the milk over medium heat until

2 ounces semisweet chocolate, finely chopped bubbles form around the edges of the pan. Add the honey and

stir until dissolved. Remove from heat and let cool. Refrigerate

In a medium saucepan, combine the cream, milk, and sugar. for at least 2 hours, or until thoroughly chilled.

Cook over medium heat, stirring until the sugar is dissolved, In a deep bowl, beat the cream until soft peaks form. Fold

and then cook until bubbles form around the edges of the pan. the whipped cream into the milk mixture and transfer it to an

Remove from heat. Add the vanilla bean, scraping the seeds ice cream maker. Freeze according to the manufacturer’s instruc-

into the milk, and let stand for 30 minutes. Cover and refrigerate tions. Makes 1 quart; serves 4

for at least 2 hours, or until thoroughly chilled.

Remove the vanilla pod and stir in the chocolate pieces.

Transfer to an ice cream maker and freeze according to the

manufacturer’s Instructions. Makes 7 quart; serves 4

86.
 tlazelnut Gelato
‘Nacciela, er fiazelnut, is a classic Ttalian gelato flaeor. The nuts are grown

in Turkey, Spain, Greece, the United States, and Maly. The preferred variety is tonda delle Langhe,

from Piedmont, full of fragrance and long-lasting flaeer.

1/2 cup (4 ounces) hazelnuts, toasted, and Pinch of salt

skinned (See page 106)
6 egg yolks
2/3 Cup Sugar

1/4 cup heavy cream

3 cups whole milk

In a food processor, combine the hazelnuts with '/3 cup of the Return the mixture to the saucepan. Cook over medium

Sugar and grind until fine. heat, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, for 6 to 8 min-

In a medium saucepan, combine the milk and salt. Add utes, until the mixture thickens slightly and coats the back of

the ground hazelnuts and heat the mixture over medium heat the spoon. Remove from heat and set the pan in a bowl of ice

until bubbles form around the edges of the pan. Remove from water. Stir for 2 minutes to cool the mixture. Stir in the cream.

heat and cool. Cover and refrigerate overnight. Return to a Cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hours, or until thoroughly

saucepan and heat until bubbles form again. chilled.

In a blender or food processor, beat the remaining sugar Transfer the mixture to an ice cream maker and freeze

and egg yolks together until very thick. With the machine run- according to the manufacturer's instructions. Makes 11/2 quarts;

ning, gradually add the hot milk. serves 6

 Chocolate-Hazelnut Gelato
Gianduia, Piedmont’s heavenly combination of checolate and hazelnuts, is eaten

as a candy, a sauce, or an absolutely divine gelato.

31/2 cups hazelnuts, toasted, and 1/2 Cup Sugar

skinned (see page 106)
5 egg yolks
41/2 cups whole milk
Chocolate Cream Sauce (page 105) for topping
6 ounces semisweet chocolate, coarsely chopped

In a food processor, finely grind 3 cups ofthe hazelnuts; set aside. gradually add the chocolate mixture. Return the mixture to the

Coarsely chop the remaining 1/2 cup hazelnuts and set aside. saucepan.

In a medium saucepan, heat the milk over medium heat Cook over medium heat, stirring constantly with a wooden

until bubbles form around the edges of the pan. Add the ground spoon, for 6 to 8 minutes, or until the custard thickens and

hazelnuts, remove from heat, and let stand for at least 45 minutes coats the back of the spoon. Remove from heat and set the pan

at room temperature, or up to overnight in the refrigerator. in a bowl of ice water. Stir for 2 minutes to cool the mixture.

Strain the milk through a fine-meshed sieve lined with Cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hours, or until thoroughly

dampened cheesecloth, pressing to extract as much milk as chilled.

possible. Return the milk to the saucepan and add the chocolate. Transfer the mixture to an ice cream maker and freeze

Simmer over low heat, stirring, until melted. according to the manufacturer's instructions.

In a blender or food processor, beat the sugar and egg Top each serving with chocolate sauce and sprinkle with

yolks together until very thick. With the machine running, the coarsely chopped hazelnuts. Makes 11/2 quarts; serves 6

EEO BIE OS I Sa SsSaas, SC TT ee ee

 Chestnuts are the

harbinger offall. In Italy,

caré are often pulled

off the side of the road se

families can gather

a basket of the fuzzy nuts.

On the streets in the

villages, vendors sell them

frem carts, warm and

redolent with smoke.

DS
 PF FS EPSSS EP

Chestnut Gelato
Fall is chestnut season. On the streets, vendors sell reasted chestnuts fresh from

the coals in little brown paper bags. When not in season, this gelato can alse be made from canned purée;

Just be careful to taste and adjust the sugar if you buy sweetened purée.

2 cups whole milk 4 egg yolks

1/2 vanilla bean, split lengthwise 1 cup (8 ounces) unsweetened chestnut purée

2/3 Cup Sugar 1 cup heavy cream

In a medium saucepan, cook the milk over medium heat until Cook over medium heat, stirring constantly with a wooden

bubbles form around the edges of the pan. Add the vanilla bean, spoon, for 6 to 8 minutes, until the mixture thickens and coats

scraping the seeds into the milk. Remove from heat and let stand the back of the spoon. Remove from heat and set the pan ina

for 30 minutes to infuse. Remove the pod and reheat the milk bowl of ice water. Stir for 2 minutes to cool the mixture. Stir in

until bubbles form again. Cover to keep hot. : the cream. Cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hours, or until

In a blender or food processor, beat the sugar and egg thoroughly chilled.

yolks together until very thick. Add the chestnut purée and pro- Transfer the mixture to an ice cream maker. Freeze accord-

cess until blended. With the machine running, gradually add ing to the manufacturer’s instructions. Makes 11/2 quarts; serves 6

the hot milk. Return the mixture to the saucepan.

PENS IE CLES TD MMI oS A ET

 Pistachio Gelato
Pistachio gelato is the benchmark by which many gelaterie are judged. Yeu can tell at

a glance if an artificial base has been used, just by the color. If the gelato maker is using real pistachio nuts,

the color will be an almost drab green. Tf the bin flashes a neon green, keep walking!

1 cup (6 ounces) shelled pistachios, lightly toasted 3 cups whole milk

(about 12 ounces in the shell)
3/4 cup sugar

In a food processor or coffee grinder, coarsely chop the pista- Strain the milk mixture through a fine-meshed sieve,

chios, reserving a few whole ones for garnish. pressing on the nuts with the back of a large spoon to get as

In a medium saucepan, combine the milk and sugar. Cook much liquid from the nuts as possible. Transfer to an ice cream

over medium heat, stirring until the sugar is dissolved, and bubbles maker and freeze according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

form around the edges of the pan. Remove from heat, add the Makes 1 quart; serves 4

pistachios, cool, cover, and refrigerate overnight.

 Grape Gelato with Saba
Saba (or sapa) has been known since ancient times. Tt is a syrup made from cooked and

reduced grapes, the same process used in making traditional balsamic vinegar. Some producers of balsamic vinegar

sell this unfermented cooked grape must to serve spooned over desserts (see Resources, page 108).

2 pounds sweet seedless red grapes Pinch of salt

1 cup apple juice 6 egg yolks

3/4 Cup Sugar Saba for topping

3 cups whole milk

In a medium saucepan, combine the grapes, apple juice, and Cook over medium heat, stirring constantly with a wooden

1/4 cup of the sugar. Cook over medium-low heat, stirring occa- spoon, for 6 to 8 minutes, or until the mixture thickens and coats

sionally, for 25 to 30 minutes until the grapes are very tender the back of the spoon. Remove from heat and set the pan ina

and the mixture has thickened. Set aside to cool. bowl of ice water. Stir for 2 minutes to cool the mixture. Cover

In amedium saucepan, combine the milk and salt. Cook over and refrigerate for at least 2 hours, or until thoroughly chilled.

medium heat until bubbles form around the edges of the pan. Ina blender or food processor, combine the chilled custard

In a blender or food processor, beat the remaining 1/2 cup and the cooked grapes and purée until smooth. Transfer to an

sugar and egg yolks together until very thick. With the machine ice cream maker and freeze according to the manufacturer’s

running, eat add the hot milk. Return the mixture to the instructions.

saucepan. Serve drizzled with saba. Makes 11/2 quarts; serves 6

 ‘banana Gelato
Tf gelate can be “comfort food,” this is it. You might need to adjust the sugar if you use very ripe bananas.

Try to aveid touching the flesh of the bananas while peeling them to keep them from browning.

41/2 cups whole milk 1/2 Cup Sugar

4 ripe bananas, peeled and chopped 5 egg yolks

Juice of 1 lemon

In a medium saucepan, heat the milk over medium heat until Cook over medium heat, stirring constantly with a wooden

bubbles form around the edges of the pan. Set aside and cover spoon for 6 to 8 minutes, or until the mixture thickens and coats

to keep hot. the back of the spoon. Remove from heat and set the pan ina

In a blender or food processor, purée the bananas, lemon bowl of ice water. Stir for 2 minutes to cool the mixture. Stir in

juice and 1/4 cup of the sugar until smooth. Set aside. the banana mixture. Cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hours,

In the blender or food processor, beat the remaining 1/4 or until thoroughly chilled.

Cup sugar and the egg yolks together until very thick. With the Transfer the mixture to an ice cream maker and freeze

machine running, gradually add the hot milk. Return the mixture according to the manufacturer's instructions. Makes 11/2 quarts;

to the saucepan. serves 6

 Persimmon Gelato Peach Gelato
Persimmons are available only in the fall. Tt is easy to peel peaches (see Techniques, page 106).

Creamy persimmon gelato makes a delicious partner You can also try substituting nectarines or apricots in this

for pumpkin pie at the holidays. recipe when they are ripe and in seasen.

1 cup sugar 4 cups whole milk

1 cup spring water 4 ripe peaches, peeled, pitted, and

chopped (about 2 cups)
2 fresh Fuyu persimmons
(about 12 ounces total), peeled Juice of 1 lemon

1 cup heavy cream 3/4 Cup Sugar

4 egg yolks
In amedium saucepan, combine the sugar and water. Cook over

medium heat, stirring until the sugar has dissolved. Set aside
Follow the same instructions for Banana Gelato (page 46),
to cool.
substituting puréed peaches for the bananas. In step 3, beat the
In a blender or food processor, purée the persimmons.
remaining 1/2 cup sugar and the egg yolks together until very
Blend in the cooled sugar syrup and transfer to a large bowl.
thick. Continue as directed. Makes 11/2 quarts; serves 6
Refrigerate for at least 2 hours, or until thoroughly chilled.

Ina deep bowl, beat the cream until soft peaks form. Fold

it into the persimmon mixture and transfer it to an ice cream

maker. Freeze according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Makes

1 quart; serves 4

VOY
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 Zabaglione Gelato with Figs
Marsala, a Sicilian fortified wine, is most commenly used to flaver zabaglione, a warm custardlike dessert often

served over fresh fruit. Here, the custard is used as a base for gelato, which is served over fresh figs.

2/3 cup Sugar

2/3 cup heavy cream

6 egg yolks
Pinch of salt

1/4 cup sweet Marsala

12 ripe fresh figs, stemmed and halved

21/4 cups whole milk

In a blender or food processor, beat the sugar and egg yolks whisking constantly. Remove the pan from heat and place it

together until pale in color. With the machine running, pour in in a bowl of cold water, stirring for at least 2 minutes to cool

the Marsala. Transfer the mixture to a double boiler over sim- the mixture. Cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hours, or until

mering water and cook, whisking constantly, for 8 to 10 min- thoroughly chilled.

utes, or until thickened. Transfer the mixture to an ice cream maker and freeze

In a medium saucepan, combine the milk, cream, and according to the manufacturer’s directions.

salt. Heat over medium heat until bubbles form around the edge Arrange the figs on individual serving plates and spoon

of the pan. Gradually add the hot milk to the Marsala mixture, the gelato on top. Makes 11/2 quarts; serves 6
 Amaretto—Poached Pear Gelato
Serve this creamy pear gelato with a little glass of delicate but nutty amaretto liqueur.

2 cups pear or apple juice 21/4 cups whole milk

1 cup amaretto di Saronno Pinch of salt

1/2 cup plus 2/3 Cup sugar 6 egg yolks

6 pears, peeled, halved, and cored 1/2 cup hazelnuts, toasted, skinned, and
chopped (see page 106)
2/3 cup heavy cream

Ina large saucepan, combine the pear or apple juice, amaretto, Return the mixture to the saucepan. Cook over medium

and the 1/2 cup sugar. Heat the mixture over medium heat, stirring heat, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, for 6 to 8 minutes,

until the sugar is dissolved. Add the pears and poach for 35 to until the mixture thickens slightly and coats the back of the spoon.

40 minutes, or until tender but not falling apart. Using a slotted Remove the pan from heat and set it in a bowl of ice water. Stir

spoon, transfer the pears to a plate. Reduce the cooking liquid for 2 minutes to cool the mixture. Cover and refrigerate for at

for 20 minutes, or until slightly thickened. Set aside to cool. least 2 hours, or until thoroughly chilled.

Stir in the cream. Cover and refrigerate the pears and liquid Chop 6 of the pear halves, refrigerate the remaining 6 for

separately until needed. serving. In a blender or food processor, purée the chilled cus-

In a medium saucepan, combine the milk and salt. Heat tard and the chopped pears until smooth. Freeze in an ice cream

over medium heat until bubbles form around the edges. Remove maker according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

from heat and cover to keep hot. To serve, arrange a pear half on each plate. Reheat the

In a blender or food processor, blend the 2/3 cup sugar reduced cooking liquid. Scoop gelato on top of each pear half,

and the egg yolks together until very thick and smooth. With spoon some of the reduced cooking liquid over, and garnish

the machine running, gradually add the hot milk. with the chopped hazelnuts. Makes 11/2 quarts; serves 6
 Caffe Latte Gelato
tHardcore coffee-lovers can intensify the flavor of this coffee gelato by doubling the ameunt of ground coffee.

Tt is essential to grind the coffee fresh and as fine as possible to extract the mest flavor.

2 cups whole milk 5 egg yolks

1/2 cup coffee beans, freshly ground to 1 cup heavy cream

a very fine powder
Whipped cream and chocolate-covered
2/3 Cup Sugar coffee beans for garnish

In a medium saucepan, combine the milk and ground coffee. 8 minutes, until the mixture thickens slightly and coats the back

Bring to a low simmer over very low heat and cook for 20 min- of the spoon. Remove the pan from heat and set it in a bowl of

utes. Cover and let stand for 30 minutes, or refrigerate overnight. ice water. Stir for 2 minutes to cool the mixture. Cover and

Strain the milk through a fine-meshed strainer. In a medium refrigerate for at least 2 hours, or until thoroughly chilled.

saucepan, heat the milk over medium heat until bubbles form In a deep bowl, beat the cream until soft peaks form. Fold

around the edges of the pan. Set aside and cover to keep hot. the whipped cream into the custard mixture. Transfer to an ice

In a blender or food processor, blend the sugar and egg cream maker and freeze according to the manufacturer’s

yolks together until very thick and smooth. With the machine instructions.

running, gradually add the hot milk. Serve garnished with whipped cream and chocolate-

Transfer the mixture to the saucepan and cook over covered coffee beans. Makes 11/2 quarts; serves 6

medium heat, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, for 6 to

 Custard Gelato
One of the mest popular flavors in gelaterie in Italy is crema, a simple frozen custard unenhanced by any flavering.

It has a rich yellow color due to the brightness of the yolks of Malian corn-fed chickens.

21/4 cups whole milk 6 egg yolks

Pinch of salt 2/3 cup heavy cream

2/3 Cup Sugar

Ina medium saucepan, combine the milk and salt. Heat the milk thickens slightly and coats the back of the spoon. Remove the

over medium heat until bubbles form around the edges of the pan from heat and set it in a bowl of ice water. Stir for 2 minutes

pan. Set aside and cover to keep hot. to cool the mixture. Cover and refrigerate for 2 hours, or until

In a blender or food processor, blend the sugar and egg thoroughly chilled.

yolks together until very thick and smooth. With the machine In a deep bowl, beat the cream until soft peaks form. Fold

running, gradually add the hot milk. Return the mixture to the the whipped cream into the custard mixture. Transfer to an

saucepan and cook over medium heat, stirring constantly ice cream maker and freeze according to the manufacturer’s

with a wooden spoon, for 6 to 8 minutes, or until the mixture instructions. Makes 11/2 quarts; serves 6
 Florentine ‘Rice Gelato
The best gelato di rise 7 tasted was from Gelateria 11 Fantine in Campi Bisenzio, near Florence.

Since Guide Ballerini wouldn't part with his recipe, 1 tried to re-create it using a basic vanilla base. Tt is best

to use long-grain rice; it fias less starch, so the grains don’t stick together when cooking.

61/2 cups whole milk Pinch of salt

1 cup sugar 1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise

1 cup long-grain rice, rinsed well 6 egg yolks

2/3 cup heavy cream 1/2 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

In a large Saucepan, heat 4 cups of the milk. Add 1/3 cup of the In a blender or food processor, beat the remaining 2/3 cup

sugar and stir until the sugar is dissolved. Add the rice and sugar and the egg yolks together until very thick. Gradually add

simmer for 1 hour, stirring frequently and mixing any skin that the hot milk. Return the mixture to the saucepan.

forms back into the mixture. The rice will be very tender, and Cook over medium heat, stirring constantly with a wooden

the mixture will have thickened. Set aside to cool, stirring spoon, for 6 to 8 minutes, or until the custard thickens and coats

occasionally to keep it from clumping. Stir in the cream. Cover the back of the spoon. Remove from heat and set the pan ina

and refrigerate for at least 2 hours, or until thoroughly chilled. bowl of ice water. Stir for 2 minutes to cool the mixture. Cover

In a medium saucepan, combine the remaining 21/2 cups and refrigerate for at least 2 hours, or until thoroughly chilled.

milk, the salt, and vanilla bean, scraping the seeds from the pod Stir the rice and nutmeg into the custard. Transfer to an

into the milk. Cook over medium heat until bubbles form around ice cream maker and freeze according to the manufacturer’s

the edges of the pan. Remove from heat and remove the vanilla instructions. Makes 2 quarts; serves 8

pod. Cover to keep hot.

“
O Ge LESSOBLE SSP Ee

Wes
 Oo

Although rice originated

in Asia, Ttaly now produces

60 percent of the rice for the

‘European market. Originally

imported by the early

Romans for medicinal and

cosmetic purposes, this

gram has clearly reached

a high culinary stature.

>
 Nea et

cA aoSrat ata

ra
ie
i
a
 Orange Sorbetto
This easy do-ahead dessert is charmingly presented in a hollowed-out orange shell.

Lemon Granite and Sorbetto (page 79) can be similarly served in lemon shells.

2 oranges 1 teaspoon grated orange zest

2 cups spring water 1 egg white

1/2 cup Sugar

Cut the oranges in half and scoop the pulp with a spoon, taking back of a large spoon. Discard the pulp. Refrigerate the mixture

care not to puncture the skin. Set the shells aside. Place the for at least 2 hours, or until thoroughly chilled.

pulp in a blender or food processor and add the water, sugar, Transfer to an ice cream maker and freeze according to

and orange zest. Blend until the sugar is dissolved. the manufacturer’s instructions until partially frozen. Add the

Strain the pulp mixture through a fine-meshed sieve, egg white and continue to fieeze until firm.

pressing out as much liquid from the pulp as possible with the Scoop the sorbetto into the reserved orange shells and

freeze until ready to serve. Makes 7 quart; serves 4

 Cactus ‘Pear Sorbetto
Found in kitchens the world over, fico d’India, literally Indian fig, is the fruit of the Opuntia cactus.

Antonio Lisciandro of Gelateria Carabe demonstrates fiow fie turns this magically colored fruit inte festive gelato

and serbette. This base mixture also makes. a delicious drink, mixed with vodka or rum.

1 pound fresh cactus pears, peeled (See page 106)

1 cup spring water

1/2 cup sugar

In a blender or food processor, combine all the ingredients and

process until smooth. Strain through a fine-meshed sieve.

Refrigerate for at least 2 hours, or until thoroughly chilled.

Transfer the mixture to an ice cream maker and freeze

according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Makes 1 quart;

serves 4

ea bos Sink
 Melon Sorbetto
This: shockingly simple sorbetto is unbelievably fresh tasting.

Try it alse with watermelon er fioneydew melon. Garnish with a slice

of fresh melon for an attractive presentation.

1/2 cantaloupe, peeled, seeded, and

chopped (about 2 cups)

1 cup spring water

1/2 Cup Sugar

Combine all the ingredients in a blender or food processor and

process until smooth. Refrigerate for at least 2 hours, or until

thoroughly chilled.

Transfer to an ice cream maker and freeze according to

the manufacturer’s instructions. Makes 7 quart; serves 4

 Pr SSX FS e- =e ee OS OO Oe:

Strawberry Sorbetta
For a very silky sorbetto, strain the strawberries. through

a fine-meshed sieve after puréeing.

1/2 Cup sugar

1/4 cup spring water

4 cups fresh strawberries, hulled

1 egg white

In a medium saucepan, combine the sugar and water. Cook

over medium heat, stirring until the sugar dissolves. Set aside

to cool completely.

In a blender or food processor, purée the strawberries.

.

You should have about 2 cups purée. Stir the purée into the

cooled sugar syrup. Refrigerate for at least 2 hours until chilled.

Transfer to an ice cream maker and freeze according to

the manufacturer’s instructions until partially frozen. Add the

egg white and continue to freeze until firm. Makes 11/4 quarts;

serves 4

~, >

\
 Plum Serbetto ‘Kiwi Sorbetto
Create a leaning tower of plum with fresh plum slices If you prefer a silky green sorbetto, strain eut

and reunds. of plum serbetto. the little black seeds after puréeing.

1 pound fresh plums, peeled, 3/4 Cup Sugar

seeded, pitted, and chopped (about 2 cups),
plus 6 whole plums for garnish 1/4 Cup spring water

1 cup spring water 2 pounds ripe kiwis

1/2 Cup Sugar 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

1 egg white
In a blender or food processor, combine all the ingredients and

process until smooth. Refrigerate for at least 2 hours, or until

Inamedium saucepan, combine the sugar and water over medium
thoroughly chilled. Transfer to an ice cream maker and freeze
heat, stirring, until the sugar dissolves. Set aside to cool.
according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
Reserve 1 kiwi for garnish. Peel and chop the remaining
When firm, transfer to a 9-inch square baking dish.Smooth
kiwis. Ina blender or food processor, combine the chopped kiwis
the top and place in the freezer for at least 1 hour.
and lemon juice; purée until smooth. Stir the purée into the cooled
To serve, slice the 6 reserved plums crosswise into 4 rounds
sugar syrup. Refrigerate for at least 2 hours until chilled.
each. Use a 2-inch biscuit cutter to cut the sorbetto into 18
Transfer the mixture to an ice cream maker and freeze
rounds. Quickly stack 3 rounds of sorbetto between 4 slices of
according to the manufacturer’s instructions until partially frozen.
plum. Serve at once. Makes 18 rounds; serves 6
Add the egg white and continue to freeze until firm.

Peel and slice the reserved kiwi. Scoop the sorbetto into

clear glass cups and top each with a slice of kiwi. Makes 11/2

quarts; serves 6

bh
&
 Blood Orange -Campart Pear-Grappa Sorbetto
Sorbetto Grappa is a distilled alcohel made from the pressed

Campari ts a bitter apéritif with a glorious coler similar grapes used for wine. ‘Because the flaver of grappa ts se

to that of bleed oranges. This serbetto is alse good made intense, you will need only a small ameunt. Tt alse

with grapefruits (increase the sugar to 11/2 cups). combines well with strawberries, raspberries, and currants.

10 blood oranges 1 pound ripe pears, peeled, seeded, and chopped

1 cup sugar 1 cup spring water

1/2 Cup Sugar

1 egg white

2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

Sat 1/4 cup Campari

1 egg white
Squeeze 9 of the oranges, reserving 1 orange for garnish. You
2 tablespoons grappa
should have about 3 cups juice. In a medium bowl, combine the

Orange juice and sugar and stir until the sugar is dissolved.
Ina blender or food processor, combine the pears, water, sugar,
Refrigerate for at least 2 hours until chilled.
and lemon juice. Process until smooth. Cover and refrigerate
Transfer the mixture to an ice cream maker and freeze
for at least 2 hours until chilled.
according to the manufacturer’s instructions until partially
Transfer the mixture to an ice cream maker and freeze
frozen. Add the egg white and continue to freeze until firm. Add
according to the manufacturer’s instructions until partially frozen.
the Campari and continue to freeze until firm again.
Add the egg white and continue to freeze until firm. Add the
Peel the remaining orange and cut crosswise into 1/4-inch
grappa and continue to freeze until firm again. Makes 7 quart;
slices. Serve the sorbets garnished with the slices. Makes 1 quart;
serves 4
serves 4

Se
 ‘Raspberry Sorbetto Blackberry-Sangiovese
The raspberries macerated in Chamberd can be used as Sorbetto
a topping for other gelati and serbetti as well. Sangiovese is the grape used to make Chianti. A young

fruity wine, tt is an interesting complement to berry serbetti.

3/4 Cup Sugar

1/2 cup spring water 3/4 Cup Sugar

4 cups fresh raspberries 1/2 Cup spring water

Juice of 1/2 lemon 4 cups fresh blackberries

1 egg white 1 egg white

1/2 cup Chambord liqueur 1/2 Cup Sangiovese wine

In a medium saucepan, combine the sugar and water over me- In a medium saucepan, combine the sugar and water; heat over

dium heat, stirring, until the sugar dissolves. Set aside to cool. medium heat, stirring, until the sugar dissolves. Set aside to cool.

In blender or food processor, purée 31/2 cups raspberries In blender or food processor, purée the blackberries until

until smooth. Strain in a fine-meshed sieve to remove the seeds. smooth. Strain in a fine-meshed sieve to remove the seeds. Stir
Stir the purée into the cooled sugar syrup. Stir in the lemon the purée into the cooled sugar syrup. Refrigerate for at least 2

juice. Refrigerate for at least 2 hours until chilled. hours until chilled.

Transfer
the mixture to ice cream maker and freeze according Transfer the mixture to an ice cream maker and freeze

to the manufacturer’s instructions until partially frozen. Add the according to the manufacturer’s instructions until partially

egg white and continue to freeze until firm. frozen. Add the egg white and continue to freeze until firm. Add

In a small bowl, combine remaining raspberries and the the wine and continue to freeze until firm again. Makes 1 quart;

Chambord. Serve sorbetto with a spoonful of the raspberry mixture serves 4

drizzled over the top of each serving. Makes 7 quart; serves 4

 Sorbetto ‘Bellini
The white peaches of the Veneto inspired a bartender at Harry's Bar in Venice te create

the Bellini cocktail, using the local Prosecco, a sparkling white wine, and a peach purée. In this variation,

the purée is made into sorbette and served in glasses of the wine.

5 white peaches, peeled and pitted (see page 106) 2/3 cup Sugar

1/4 cup fresh raspberries 2 bottles Prosecco or other sparkling white wine

2 cups spring water

In a blender or food processor, combine 4 of the peaches, To serve, fill each of 12 champagne flutes two-thirds full

raspberries, water, and sugar. Process until smooth. Transfer with Prosecco or other sparkling wine. Slice the remaining peach

to an ice cream maker and freeze according to the manufac- into 12 thin slices. Using a melon baller, scoop 2 to 3 balls of

turer’s instructions. Transfer to an airtight container and put in the sorbetto into each glass, gently sliding them into the sparkling

the freezer for 1 hour. wine. Add a peach slice to the rim of each glass and serve at

once. Makes 11/2 quarts; serves 12

 ‘Rose Petal Sorbetto
In Sicily, wt is net uncommon ta find sorbetti made from fragrant petals, such as jasmine or orange blossem.

Tf rose petals are unavailable, substitute 1 tablespoon battled rose water.

13/4 cups sugar Juice of 1 orange

11/2 cups spring water Juice of 1/2 lemon

8 cups unsprayed aromatic fresh pink rose petals 2 egg whites

In a medium saucepan, combine the sugar and water and cook and lemon juice to the syrup. Transfer the syrup to an ice cream

over medium-high heat, stirring until the sugar dissolves. Remove maker and freeze according to the manufacturer’s instructions

from the heat and add the rose petals. Let stand for 30 minutes. until partially frozen. In a large bowl, beat the egg whites until

Refrigerate for at least 2 hours, or until thoroughly chilled. soft peaks form. Stir into the sorbetto until blended. Continue

Strain out and discard the rose petals. Add the orange to freeze until firm. Makes 7 quart; serves 4

aos Te A res i
 Almend Granita
Almond milk has a surprisingly rich, yet delicate flaver that is maintained even when frozen.

‘In hot weather, it is very refreshing.

2 cups slivered almonds 2/3 Cup Sugar

4 cups spring water

In a food processor, grind the almonds to a fine paste. Add 1 process two more times. Reserve the almond milk and discard

cup of the water, and process with the almonds. Let stand for the almond paste.

1 hour. Strain through a fine-meshed sieve, stirring and press- In a medium bowl, combine the almond milk and sugar,

ing on the almond paste with the back of a large spoon to stirring to dissolve the sugar. Pour into a 9-inch round or square

release as much liquid as possible. Set the almond milk aside. baking dish. Freeze until the mixture becomes slushy around

Return the almond paste to the food processor, and add 1 more edges, about 30 minutes. Stirtobreak up the ice crystals. Continue

cup water. Process, let stand, and strain as before. Repeat this freezing, stirring the mixture every 20 minutes, until it is slushy,

about 1 hour. Makes 7 quart; serves 4

 Or

On the southeastern coast

of Sicily, below Siracusa, ts

the baroque village of ‘Noto

where Corrada Costanza

fas been making gelati for

Sifty years. One of his

specialties, a granita made

from almond milk, uses the

renowned local almonds

from Avola.

sO
PS aS OS Ley ay a a a

Lemon Granita
Lemen granita ts one of the Ttalian classics, simple and refreshing.

This recipe can also be used te make a sorbetto by freezing the mixture in

an ice cream maker until partially frezen. Add an egg white and continue

to process until firm. ‘For an interesting presentation, serve in hollowed

lemon halves, similar to the recipe for Orange Sorbette (page 61).

2 cups spring water

1 cup sugar

1 cup fresh lemon juice

1 teaspoon grated lemon zest

In a large bowl, combine all the ingredients and stir until the

sugar is dissolved.

Pour into a 9-inch round or square baking dish. Freeze

until the mixture becomes slushy around the edges, about 30

minutes. Stir to break up the ice crystals. Continue freezing,

stirring the mixture every 20 minutes, until it is slushy, about

1 hour. Makes 7 quart; serves 4

He SPSS
 Coffee Granita RSS

A Sicilian classic, coffee granita is wonderful served in a fresh brioche (page 90) for breakfast

on a het day, or as an after-dinner refreshment in small elegant glasses.

4 cups hot, freshly brewed espresso or strong coffee

1/2 Cup Sugar

In a medium bowl, combine the espresso and sugar, stirring to

dissolve the sugar. Set aside to cool. Pour into a 9-inch round

or square baking dish. Freeze until the mixture becomes slushy

around edges, about 30 minutes. Stirto break up the ice crystals.

Continue freezing, stirring the mixture every 20 minutes, until it

is slushy, about 1 hour. Makes 1 quart; serves 4

iin
SEBO
oeaBORIS
x
eed
ne

SO
. ma
ESS
 \ oo

iN
 Grandma’s Gelate Cake
Grandma's Gelato Cake, or torta gelato della nenna, is a good

way to use leftover gelato. It’s also a great do-ahead dessert—use two or three

of your favorite flavers and freeze them for next weekend.

1 cup Peach Sorbetto (page 72)

1 cup Vanilla Gelato (page 35)

1 cup Strawberry Sorbetto (page 66)

11/2 cups heavy cream

1/2 pint fresh raspberries, washed, for garnish

Spread a 1-inch layer of peach sorbetto into a chilled 9-inch

springform pan. Pack firmly. Top with a 1-inch layer of vanilla

gelato, packing firmly. Top vanilla layer with a 1-inch layer of

strawberry sorbetto, packing firmly and smoothing the top. Cover

with plastic wrap and freeze overnight.

In a deep bowl, beat the cream until soft peaks form. To

unmold the cake, loosen the edges with a sharp knife, then

release the sides. Garnish with the whipped cream and rasp-

berries. Serves 8
 ueme
The duome, or dome, is malded in the colors of the Ttalian flag.

It is an elegant presentation when served on a pool of Raspberry or

‘Kiwi Sauce (page 104) or Crema Inglese (page 105).

2 cups Pistachio Gelato (page 43)

2 cups Vanilla Gelato (page 35)

2 cups Raspberry Sorbetto (page 71)

In achilled 8-cup dome mold, spread a 1-inch layer of pistachio

gelato. Pack firmly. Cover with a 1-inch layer of vanilla gelato,

packing firmly. Finish by filling with a third layer of raspberry

sorbetto, packing firmly and smoothing the top. Cover with plastic

wrap and freeze overnight.

To unmold, loosen the edges with a sharp knife, cover with

the serving platter, invert both, and remove the mold. To slice,

dip a sharp knife in hot water, wipe it dry, then cut each slice.

Serves 8
 Cherry Cup
This dish would alse be delicious with Custard Gelato (page 55). Freshi cherries are the best,

but when they are not in season, 1 cup (8 ounces) dried cherries can be substituted.

3/4 Cup apple juice 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

3/4 Cup spring water 1 pound (about 3 cups)

dark sweet cherries, pitted
1/2 cup sugar
Vanilla Gelato (page 35)
1/2 teaspoon grated lemon zest

Chill 6 individual serving dishes until ready to serve. Cook for 8 to 10 minutes, or until cherries are soft. Let cool to

In a medium saucepan, combine the apple juice, water, room temperature before serving.

sugar, lemon zest, and cinnamon. Bring to a boil, stirring to Place a scoop of vanilla gelato into each chilled serving dish.

dissolve the sugar. Add the cherries and reduce heat to a simmer. Spoon the cherries and their liquid on top. Serves 6
 PRK Fre Pe FPS Ter Veus

‘Brioche
Here is a delicious eggy breakfast bread, perfect for accompanying sorbette on a hot summer morning.

A nice variatien is te knead in 1/2 cup raisins seaked in 1/4 cup rum, just before the last rise.

1 package active dry yeast 2 egg yolks

11/2 cups warm milk (105° to 115°F) 41/2 to 5 cups unbleached all-purpose flour

SSeLlrs=
eS:
Parr
FS
1/2 cup sugar plus 1 tablespoon sugar 1/2 teaspoon salt

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 1 egg white

In a large bowl, dissolve the yeast in the warm milk. Stir in 1 Place the dough in a lightly oiled bowl and turn the dough
LIE,
ICE
PGF tablespoon of the 1/2 cup sugar and the Olive oil. Set aside until to coat it. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and let the dough

foamy, about 10 minutes. rise in a warm place until doubled, about 1 hour.
pag
Whisk the egg yolks into the yeast mixture until well blended. Divide the dough into 12 portions, shaping each into a ball.

Whisk in 1 cup of the flour, the rest of the 1/2 cup of sugar, and Place each ball in a muffin cup and let rise in a warm place until

the salt. Cover with plastic wrap and let stand in a warm place doubled, about 1 hour.

for 1 hour. Preheat the oven to 375°F. In a small bowl, whisk the egg

Whisk in the remaining flour 1/2 cup at a time, switching white and sugar just until the sugar is dissolved. Set aside.

to a wooden spoon when necessary, until too stiff to stir. Turn Bake the rolls for18 to 20 minutes, or until golden. Remove

the dough onto a floured work surface and knead until smooth, from the oven and brush with the egg white mixture while still

about 5 minutes, adding more flour 1 tablespoon at a time as warm. Let cool in the pan.

necessary if the dough is sticky. To serve, slice in half and fill with a scoop of sorbetto.

Makes 1 dozen rolls

~
&
(Fre .
 Or

‘In Sicily, the steamy

heat of merning offers an

excellent excuse to start

eating gelato early. Tt is

traditional to have a

fresh brioche with a fruit

sorbetto or coffee granita.

The frozen dessert

can be eaten from a dish

with a speen or scooped

into the split brioche.

“OQ
 : werk
Twamisu
Taking a cue from a favorite Italian dessert, this dessert combines

mascarpone gelato and ladyfingers infused with espresso syrup. Creamy, freshly made gelate is easiest

to work with, or let a previously made batch soften slightly before using.

24-30 saviordi (ladyfingers) 11/2 quarts Mascarpone Gelato (page 35)

2 cups freshly brewed espresso, cooled 1 cup heavy cream

4 tablespoons sugar 4 ounces bittersweet chocolate,

finely chopped
4 tablespoons dark rum

In a 9-inch baking dish, arrange a single layer of ladyfingers. and the gelato. Place the layered parfait glasses in the freezer

In amedium bowl, combine the espresso, sugar, and rum. Pour for at least 20 minutes to allow the tiramisu to firm up.

the mixture over the ladyfingers to cover. Set aside to Soak for In a deep bowl, beat the cream until soft peaks form. To

10 to 15 minutes. serve, top the tiramisu with whipped cream and sprinkles of the

In parfait glasses, alternate layers of the soaked cookies chopped chocolate. Serves 8
 In Ttaly, the preferred flour for this sponge cake is Tipo 00, a wheat flour slightly lower in protein than our

all-purpose flour. In fer book “The Italian Baker,” Carol Field recommends using 1 part pastry flour to 3 parts all-purpose

flour to approximate Tipe 00 flour. The addition of the softer flour further lightens the texture of this airy cake.

3 eggs, Separated 6 tablespoons unbleached all-purpose flour

1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract 2 tablespoons pastry flour

1 cup sugar 1/4 teaspoon baking powder

Pinch of salt

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Line a 9 by 13-inch sided baking Stir one-third of the beaten egg whites into the egg yolk,

sheet (a jelly roll pan) with parchment paper. Lightly butter the then gently fold in the remaining egg whites. Fold the dry

parchment and the sides of the pan. ingredients into the egg mixture in 3 increments, taking care

In a large bowl, with an electric mixer, blend the egg yolks not to overmix the batter. Pour into the prepared pan and gently

and vanilla together. Add 1/2 cup of the sugar and beat until smooth the surface. Bake until the top is firm but not browned,

light and creamy. 20 to 25 minutes. Loosen the edges with a knife and invert the

In alarge bowl, with an electric mixer, beat the egg whites cake onto a wire rack. Let cool slightly before removing the

with the salt until frothy. Gradually beat in the remaining 1/2 parchment paper. Makes one 9 by 13-inch cake

Cup sugar until soft peaks form.

 Luccotto
Tuscans claim zuccotto as their invention, first made by the Florentine architect Buontalenti in the 1500s.

LZuccotte can be made ahead and frozen; let it stand in the refrigerator for 30 minutes. before sereing.

Pan di Spagna (page 94) 1/2 Cup sugar

4 tablespoons maraschino liqueur 1/4 cup candied orange peel

2 cups heavy cream 6 ounces bittersweet chocolate, finely chopped

Cut the pan di Spagna into 1/4-inch-thick slices and line a 6-cup with half of the remaining candied orange peel and chopped

smooth-sided bowl with them, cutting wedges as needed to fill chocolate, reserving the rest for garnish. Top with a layer of

in the spaces. Drizzle the cake evenly with 1 tablespoon of the pan di Spagna slices and drizzle evenly with 1 tablespoon of

maraschino liqueur. the maraschino.

In a deep bowl, whip 1 cup of the cream until soft peaks Spoon in the chocolate whipped cream to fill the mold.

form. Gradually beat in the sugar and continue to beat until stiff Cover the top of the zuccotto with the remaining slices of pan di

peaks form. Divide the whipped cream among 3 bowls. Fold Spagna, and drizzle evenly with the remaining 1 tablespoon of

half of the candied orange peel into one, fold half of the chopped maraschino. Cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hours or overnight.

chocolate into another, and leave one plain. To serve, dip the mold in hot water. Invert it onto a serving

Spoon the orange peel whipped cream into the cake-lined platter and remove the mold. In a deep bowl, beat the remaining

bowl. Arrange a layer of pan di Spagna slices over the top and 1 cup cream until soft peaks form. Decorate the zuccotto with

drizzle evenly with 1 tablespoon of the maraschino. the whipped cream and the reserved candied orange peel and

Spoon the plain whipped cream over the cake and sprinkle chopped chocolate. Serves 8
 Caramel Semifreddo
Adding whipped cream to a gelato base keeps it from freezing solid, hence the name semifreddo, or “partly chilled.”

11/2 cups milk 4 large egg yolks

1/2 Cup spring water 11/2 cups heavy cream

3/4 cup sugar 1 cup crushed amaretti cookies

(about 15 to 20 cookies)
2 large eggs

In a small pan, heat the milk over medium heat until bubbles place it in a bowl of ice water. Stir for 2 minutes to cool the

form around the edges of the pan. Cover and set aside. In a mixture. Cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hours, or until thor-

medium saucepan, heat the water and 1/4 cup of the sugar over oughly chilled. At the same time, refrigerate an 8-cup terrine or

medium heat, stirring until the sugar dissolves. Continue to cook eight 1-cup ramekins.

until the mixture turns a rich caramel color. Stir in the hot milk. In a deep bowl, beat the cream until soft peaks form. Fold

Set the pan ina larger pan of hot waterto keep the caramel warm. the whipped cream into the custard. Pour half of the mixture

In a blender or food processor, beat the remaining 1/2 cup into the chilled terrine or ramekins. Sprinkle with half of the

sugar and the eggs and egg yolks together until very thick. With amaretti crumbs. Pour in the remaining mixture and smooth.

the machine running, gradually add half of the hot caramel mix- Cover with plastic wrap and freeze overnight.

ture. Return the mixture to the saucepan. Cover and refrigerate To unmold, dip the terrine or ramekins into a pan of warm

the remaining caramel, reserving it for sauce. water for a few seconds. Cover with a serving plate, invert both,

Cook over medium heat, stirring constantly with a wooden and remove the terrine or ramekins. Drizzle with the remaining

spoon, for 6 to 8 minutes, or until the mixture thickens slightly caramel sauce, sprinkle with the remaining amaretti crumbs,

and coats the back of the spoon. Remove from the heat and and serve at once. Serves 8
 Chocolate Soufflé Semifreddo
When malded in individual serving dishes, these frozen soufflés resemble their baked cousins.

This recipe can alse be made in an 8-cap mold and cut inte individual servings.

11/2 cups milk 2/3 Cup Sugar

6 ounces semisweet chocolate, 4 large egg yolks

coarsely chopped
2 cups heavy cream

In a medium saucepan, heat the milk over medium heat until and set it in a bowl of ice water. Stir for 2 minutes to cool the

bubbles form around the edges of the pan. Add the chopped mixture. Cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hours, or until thor-

chocolate and stir until melted. oughly chilled. At the same time, refrigerate eight 1-cup ramekins.

In a blender or food processor, beat the sugar and egg In a deep bowl, beat the cream until soft peaks form. Fold
iw
au
yolks together until very thick. With the machine running, gradu- the cream into the custard mixture. Divide the mixture among
5

ally add the chocolate-milk mixture. Return the mixture to the the chilled ramekins. Cover with plastic wrap and freeze overnight.

saucepan. To unmold, dip the ramekins briefly into a pan of hot water
PTs
Cook over medium heat, stirring constantly with a wooden and loosen the edges with a sharp knife. Cover each with an

spoon, for 6 to 8 minutes, or until the mixture thickens slightly individual serving dish, invert both, and remove the mold. Serve

and coats the back of the spoon. Remove the pan from the heat at once. Serves 8
 ‘Bruttu Ma ‘buen
Ugly, but good. These macarooniike cookies keep well in an airtight container,

and are a delicious accompaniment to gelati.

3 cups (20 ounces) slivered almonds, toasted and 2 cups Sugar

finely chopped (see page 106)
7 egg whites

Preheat the oven to 325°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment In a large bowl, beat the egg whites until stiff peaks form.

paper. Fold them into the sugar mixture.

Ina large bowl, stir the almonds and sugar together and Drop spoonfuls on the prepared pan and bake for 35 to 40

set aside. minutes, or until golden brown. Makes about 3 dozen cookies
 Chocolate ‘Meringue ‘Kisses
This: recipe makes. a lot of sweet little kisses to top gelato or serbetto, but they will keep for days in an airtight container.

The meringue can alse be piped into a flat disk of any size, which can be used for serving gelato.

6 tablespoons unsweetened cocoa powder 8 egg whites

1 cup confectioners’ sugar 1/2 teaspoon fresh lemon juice

1 cup granulated sugar

Preheat the oven to 250°F. Line 2 baking sheets with parchment Gently fold the cocoa mixture into the beaten egg whites.

paper and set aside. Place the mixture in a pastry bag fitted with a plain tip with at

Sift the cocoa and confectioners’ sugar together into a least a 1/2-inch opening. Pipe 1-inch “kisses” onto the lined pans.

medium bowl. Bake in the oven for 2 hours, or until meringues are dry

In a large bowl, beat the egg whites with the lemon juice and crisp. Turn off the oven and let meringues dry further in the

until soft peaks form. Beat in 3 tablespoons of the granulated oven for 2 hours, or overnight if desired. Makes 4 dozen kisses

sugar. Beat until stiff, then beat in the remaining sugar, beating

until glossy peaks form.

 Biscotti di ‘Prato
This: popular cookie is. famous for dipping into espresso or vin santo. Tt is a nice, crunchy complement to gelato.

for a variation, try substituting toasted pine nuts for the almonds.

1 cup whole almonds 1/2 teaspoon baking soda

13/4 cups cake flour 4 large eggs

1 cup unbleached all-purpose flour 3/4 Cup Sugar

1 teaspoon salt 2 teaspoons vanilla extract

1 teaspoon baking powder 1 tablespoon grated orange zest

Preheat the oven to 325°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment. Transfer the dough to the prepared baking sheet. Moisten

Spread the almonds on another baking sheet and bake for your fingers with water and form the dough into a log about 3

12 to 15 minutes, or until golden brown. Transferto a cool surface inches wide and 1 inch high. Bake until a toothpick inserted into

and let stand until cool. the center comes out clean, about 30 minutes. Remove to a

In a large bowl, mix together the cake flour, all-purpose wire rack to cool to the touch. Reduce the oven temperature to

flour, salt, baking powder, baking soda, and the cooled almonds. 275°F. Replace the parchment paper on the baking sheet.

In a medium bowl, beat the eggs and sugar until pale in Cut the log into 1/2-inch diagonal slices and place them on

color. Add the vanilla and orange zest and mix well. Stir the egg the pan. Bake for 10 minutes, then turn the cookies. Continue

mixture into the dry ingredients just until blended. Do not to bake until the cookies are a pale golden brown, about 20

overmix. The dough will be sticky. minutes. Transfer to wire racks to cool. Makes 2 dozen cookies
 Pizzelle Cones or Wafers
Tfyou have a pizzelle iron, yeu can make your own gelato cones by shaping the pizzelle

while warm, er cut them inte fans and insert one in the top of each serving of gelato.

Other shapes can be made by draping a soft pizzelle over a glass or the neck of a bottle, or pressing

it inte a muffin cup. Optional flavers can be added, such as nutmeg, cinnamen, or vanilla.

1/2 cup all-purpose flour 2 egg whites

1/4 teaspoon baking soda 1/2 Cup sugar

Pinch of salt 4 tablespoons unsalted butter,

melted and cooled

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground nutmeg or

ground cinnamon (optional) 1 teaspoon vanilla (optional)

In a large bowl, combine the flour, baking soda, salt, and optional Heat a pizzelle iron according to the manufacturer’s

spices. Stir to mix and set aside. instructions and brush it with a light coat of the remaining

In a large bowl, beat the egg whites until soft peaks form. melted butter. Pour a small amount of batter in the center of

Gradually beat in the sugar until stiff, glossy peaks form. Whisk each pizzelle stamp, close, and cook for 30 to 45 seconds, until

in 2 tablespoons of the melted butter (and optional vanilla, if golden brown. Shape as desired while warm, or cut into quar-

using). Fold the egg whites into the flour mixture. Place the ters to serve as wafers. Repeat the process to use all the

remaining butter in a container with a pour spout. remaining batter. Makes 6 cones or 24 wafers
 ‘Fruit Sauces
Fresh fruit sauces are the perfect accompaniment to gelato. These easy combinations can be enhanced with

the addition of 1 or 2 tablespoons of liqueur such as kirsch, Grand ‘Marnier, er maraschine.

Apricot Sauce ‘Raspberry Sauce ‘Kuo Sauce

1 pound fresh apricots, 2 cups fresh raspberries, washed 6 fresh kiwis, peeled
peeled and pitted
2/3 Cup Sugar 3/4 Cup Sugar
1/2 cup sugar

1/4 Cup spring water 1/4 Cup spring water

1/4 Cup spring water

Juice of 1/2 lemon Juice of 1/2 lemon

Juice of 1/2 lemon

For each sauce, combine all the ingredients in a blender or food purée through a fine-meshed sieve. Makes approximately 21/2

processor and process until smooth. For a silky sauce, pass the cups; serves 6
 Crema Inglese
This classic dessert sauce can be varied simply by adding a variety of other flavors to the finished sauce.

The sauce can be made and refrigerated a day ahead of serving.

2 Cups whole milk 4 egg yolks

1 cup heavy cream 1/2 Cup Sugar

1/2 vanilla bean, split lengthwise

In a saucepan, combine the milk, cream, and vanilla bean, scrap- Chocolate Cream Sauce
ing the seeds into the milk. Heat over medium heat until bubbles After straining, return the sauce to the saucepan and add 4 ounces

form around the edges of the pan. Set aside and cover. finely chopped bittersweet chocolate, stirring until melted.

In a medium bowl, beat the egg yolks and sugar together

until pale in color. Remove the vanilla bean from the mixture Coffee Cream Sauce
and gradually whisk the mixture into the eggs.
Substitute 1/4 cup freshly ground coffee for the vanilla bean.
Return to the saucepan and cook over low heat, stirring

constantly, until the custard thickens enough to coat the back

Orange Cream Sauce
of the spoon. Strain through a fine-meshed sieve. Serve warm
Substitute 1/2 cup fresh orange juice for the vanilla bean. Add 1
or chilled. Makes 31/2 cups
teaspoon finely grated orange zest after straining.
 Techniques
Peeling Cactus Pears Peeling Peaches
Many cactus pears purchased in the market have had their stickers Score an X in the skin and drop the peaches in boiling water for

mechanically removed, but there are usually still some fine 30 seconds. Immediately immerse them in ice water and the

irritating ones remaining. The best way to peel the pears is to skin will slip right off.

slice off 1/4 inch at each end and stick a fork in one end. With a

sharp knife, make a slit the length of the pear through the skin. Lesting Citrus
Using the knife, loosen the edge of the slit and flatten the skin Use a citrus zester or grater to grate the brightly colored skin of

against the cutting board, rotating the fruit as you unroll the citrus or remove the skin with a vegetable peeler, then mince it.

skin. See page 63 for a photo illustration of this technique. Do not use the white pith, as it is bitter.

Toasting ‘Nuts Using Alcohel in Gelato

To toast almonds or walnuts, place them on a baking sheet ina Too much alcohol can slow or stop the freezing process. Use

preheated 350°F oven for 8 to 10 minutes, or until golden brown the following guidelines for each 4 cups of base mixture:
and aromatic. Toast pine nuts at the same temperature for 5 to Wine (up to 12 percent alcohol):
7 minutes. less than 1 cup

Dessert wine or liqueur (up to 25 percent alcohol):

Toasting and Skinning Hazelnuts up to 1/2 cup

Toast the nuts on a baking sheet in a preheated 325°F oven for Distilled alcohol (up to 48 percent alcohol):

10 to 12 minutes, or until aromatic. While the nuts are still hot, up to 1/4 cup

place them in a terrycloth towel and rub them together. Most of

the brown skins should come off.

ZOO
 Flaver Glossary

— % Italian
Albicocca
English

Apricot
Italian

Limone
English

Lemon
Amarena Wild cherry Mandarino Tangerine
Ananas Pineapple Mandorla Almond
Be, ; a Arancia Orange Marron glacé Candied chestnuts
Bacio Chocolate with chopped hazelnuts Mela Apple
Banana Banana Melone Melon
F Buontalenti Eggy Menta Mint
B Caffe Coffee Miele Honey
Canela Cinnamon Mirtillo Blueberry
~ Caramel Caramel Mora Blackberry
Cassata siciliana Contains bits of dried fruit Nocciola Hazelnut
Castagna Chestnut Noce Walnut
Ciliegia Cherry Panna Whipped cream
Ps, i Cioccolato Chocolate Pera Pear
Cioccolato bianco White chocolate Pesca Peach
Cocco Coconut Pescanoce Nectarine
Cocomero Watermelon Pistacchio Pistachio
Crema Custard Pompelmo Grapefruit
Datteri Dates Prugna Plum
Fico Fig Ribes Currants
a 4 Fico d’India Cactus pear Riso Rice
Fior di latte Pure, rich milk and sugar Rosa Rose
Fior di panna Pure, rich cream and sugar Stracciatella Vanilla with fine chocolate pieces
oan &
Fragola Strawberry Tarocchio Blood orange
Wild strawberries Tartufo Chocolate truffle
=} iat,
‘Fragoline
Frutti di bosco Wild berries Torrone Nougat
7 Gelsomino Jasmine Uva Grape
Gianduia Chocolate-hazelnut Vaniglia Vanilla
Lampone Raspberry

4O/
 ‘Resources.
Supplies Gelaterie
Chef's Catalog Sicily Antonio Lisciandro
P.O. Box 620048 Mondello Gelateria Carabe (pages 16-18, 62-63)
Dallas, TX 75262 Gelateria Antico Chiosco (page 14) Via Ricasoli, 60/r
Tel. (800) 338-3232 Piazza Mondello
Fax (800) 967-3291 Beachfront resort near Palermo Forte dei Marmi

www.chefscatalog.com Antonio Lisciandro

Ice cream makers Noto Gelateria Carabe (pages 16-18)
Corrado Costanzo (page 14) Via Pl Carrara
Hayward Enterprises Via Silvio Spaventa, 7/9 Vittoria Apuana
Perfect Puree Company
Palermo Livorno
975 Vintage Avenue
Umberto and Giovanni Stancampiano Antonio Bartoletti
St. Helena, CA 94574
Gelateria Stancampiano (pages 15-16) Dai Dai Gelateria Artigiana (pages 24-27)
Tel. (707) 967-8700
Via Notarbartolo, 51 Via del Sorriso, 8 Fraz.
Fax (707) 967-8799
Castiglioncello
California white peach purée
Piedment
Pelago
Alessandria
Manicaretti Imports Giancarlo Sottani
Claudio and Enrico Elli
5332 College Avenue, No. 200 Gelateria Sottani (page 35)
-Cremeria del Corso (pages 21-25)
Oakland, CA 94618 Via Forlivese, 93
Corso Roma, 69
Tel. (800) 799-9830 Localita San Francesco
Saba, chestnut honey
fuscany
(an ae .

Campi Bisenzio
Sur La Table
Stores nationwide
Guido Ballerini Biblegraphy
Il Fantino Gelateria-Latteria (pages 18-21)
Catalogue Tel. (800) 243-0852 Caviezel, Luca. Scienza e technologia del gelato
Via 24 Maggio, 12
Ice cream makers artigianale. Pinerolo (TO): Chiriotti, 1996.

Firenze Gosetti, Fernanda. // Gelato. Milano: Fabbri, 1985.

Williams-Sonoma
Piero Vivoli
Stores nationwide Landra, Laura and Margherita. Come farei
Il Gelato Vivoli (page 21)
Catalogue Tel. (800) 541-2233 gelati in casa. Milano: De Vecchi, 1997.
Via Isola delle Stinche, 7/r
Ice cream makers
Preti, G. // gelato artigianale italiani. Milano:
Hoepli, 1982.

7OS
 Acknowledgments

Pamela Sheldon Johns would like to thank two dear friends, Jennifer Barry Design would like to thank the following individuals

Lucy De Fazio and Kimberly Wicks Bartolozzi, for their invaluable and establishments for their support of this book project:

help with research and logistics in Italy.

Ten Speed publisher Kirsty Melville and editorial director Lorena

Thanks also to Antonio Davi, president of the Messina, Sicily, Jones for their continued editorial guidance and enthusiasm for

convivium of Slow Food for spending a day with me in Palermo. Italian cuisine; Joyce Oudkerk Pool for traveling to Italy to

Much appreciation back at home to my friends who helped with photograph all the wonderful gelaterie that we may now enjoy

recipe testing and other details: Judy Dawson, Philippa Farrar, in this book. For this, in addition to Joyce’s lovely photography

Mari Kay Bartoli, and especially Gioia Bartoli Cardi. of the recipes with the help of stylist Pouké, who has styled

every book in our Italian food series so beautifully, we are most

Alaia and | wish to express our appreciation and love to our
appreciative; Kristen Wurz, Leslie Barry, Carolyn Miller, Barbara
traveling companions, Donna LeBlanc and Linda Hale. Kisses
King, and prop stylist Carol Hacker for their expert assistance
to Courtney, who never once complained about tasting so many
in producing the book. Special thanks go to Jeannie and Gary
gelati! Tremendous thanks and appreciation to the generous
Rulli of Emporio Rulli in Larkspur, California, for inspiring both
collaboration of Jennifer Barry, a great partner and friend.
our photography and ou taste buds with their authentic gelati

and do/ci. And to Pamela Sheldon Johns, our muse and friend

on another culinary adventure to our favorite country, our greatest

appreciation of her talent and inspiration for another delicious

book together.

709
aa

‘Recipe Index
Almond Granita 76 Coffee Coffee Granita 80 Pistachio
Amaretto—Poached Pear Coffee Cream Sauce 105 Lemon Granita 79 Duomo 86
Gelato 51 Coffee Granita 80 Grape Gelato with Saba 45 Pistachio Gelato 43
Banana Gelato 46 Caffé Latte Gelato 52 Grappa Pizzelle Wafers 103
Bellini Cookies Pear-Grappa Sorbetto 70 Pizzelle Cones 103
Sorbetto Bellini 72 Brutti Ma Buoni 99 Hazelnut Plum Sorbetto 69
Biscotti di Prato 102 Biscotti di Prato 102 Chocolate-Hazelnut Gelato 38 Raspberry
Blackberry-Sangiovese Custard Gelato 55 Hazelnut Gelato 37 Duomo 86
Sorbetto 71 Duomo 86 Honey Raspberry Sorbetto 71
Blood Orange—Campar! Figs Chestnut Honey Gelato 36 Sorbetto Bellini 72
Sorbetto 70 Zabaglione Gelato with Kiwi Sorbetto 69 Rice
Brioche 90 Figs 48 Lemon Granita 79 Florentine Rice Gelato 56
Brutti Ma Buoni 99 Gelati Mascarpone Rose Petal Sorbetto 75
Cactus Pear Amaretto-Poached Pear Mascarpone Gelato 35 Saba
Cactus Pear Sorbetto 62 Gelato 51 Tiramisu 93 Grape Gelato with Saba 45
Cake Banana Gelato 46 Melon Sorbetto 65 Sangiovese
Grandma’s Gelato Cake 85 Caffé Latte Gelato 52 Meringue Blackberry—Sangiovese
Pan di Spagna 94 Chestnut Gelato 41 Chocolate Meringue Kisses Sorbetto 71
Campari Chestnut Honey Gelato 36 101 Sauce
Blood Orange—Campari Chocolate-Hazelnut Gelato 38 Orange Apricot Sauce 104
Sorbetto 70 Custard Gelato 55 Blood Orange—Campari Crema Inglese with
Cantaloupe Florentine Rice Gelato 56 Sorbetto 70 Chocolate, Coffee, and
Melon Sorbetto 65 Grandma’s Gelato Cake 85 Orange Cream Sauce 105 Orange variations 105
Caramel Semifreddo 97 Grape Gelato with Saba 45 Orange Sorbetto 61 Kiwi Sauce 104
Cherry Cup 89 Hazelnut Gelato 37 Pan di Spagna 94 Raspberrry Sauce 104
Chestnut Mascarpone Gelato 35 Zuccotto 94 Semifreddo
Chestnut Gelato 41 Peach Gelato 47 Peach Caramel Semifreddo 97
Chestnut Honey Gelato 36 Persimmon Gelato 47 Peach Gelato 47 Chocolate Souffle
Chocolate Pistachio Gelato 43 Sorbetto Bellini 72 Semifreddo 98
Chocolate Cream Sauce 105 Stracciatella 36 Pear Sorbetti
Chocolate-Hazelnut Gelato 38 Vanilla Gelato 35 Amaretto—Poached Pear Blackberry-Sangiovese
Chocolate Meringue Kisses Zabaglione Gelato with Gelato 51 Sorbetto 71
101 Figs 48 Pear-Grappa Sorbetto 70 Blood Orange-—Campari
Chocolate Soufflé Granite Persimmon Gelato 47 Sorbetto 70
Semifreddo 98 Almond Granita 76 Pine Nuts Cactus Pear Sorbetto 62
Stracciatella 36 Mascarpone Gelato 35 Kiwi Sorbetto 69

SOT aS peltihiae
 General Index
Melon Sorbetto 65 Babbi 19 France 8,9, 13 Pistachio 15
Orange Sorbetto 61 Ballerini, Guido 18, 21, 56 Frappe 13 Plotkin, Fred 14
Peach Sorbetto 72 Bartoletti, Antonio 24, 26 Gelaterie 10, 11, 13-24 Pompeii 7
Pear-Grappa Sorbetto 70 Bombe 11 Gelati al forno 9 Prices 11
Plum Sorbetto 69 Bourbons 9, 13 Gelato caldo 13, 16 Procopio dei Coltelli,
Raspberry Sorbetto 70 Breakfast 14, 80, 90 Gelato makers 11, 14-30 Francesco 9
Rose Petal Sorbetto 75 Buontalenti, Bernardo 8, 94 Grappa 10, 30, 70 Romans 7, 13, 57
Sorbetto Bellini 72 Caesar, Nero Claudius 7 Greeks 7, 13 Rosolio 13, 28
Strawberry Sorbetto 66 * Café Napolitain 9 ll Fantino 18, 24, 56 Ruggeri, Giuseppe 8
Stracciatella Campania 8, 24 I! Re dei cuochi 9 Saba (Sapa) 8, 45
Stracciatella 36 Campi Bisenzio 18, 56 India 7 Saracen 13, 15
Strawberry Carabe, Gelateria 16, 24, 62 Industriale 17, 25 Semifreddo 11, 16
Strawberry Sorbetto 66 Carruba 17 Lippolis, Felice 9 Sicily 7, 10, 11, 13-16, 24,
Tiramisu 93 Cassata 11 Lisciandro, Antonio 16-18, 75, 77, 80, 91
Torta Gelato Cassata gelata 14 30, 62-63 Slow Food 14
Duomo 86 Castiglioncello 24 Macedonia 13 Sottani, Gelateria 35
Grandma’s Gelato Cake 85 Cattabriga, Otello 30 Malgieri, Nick 14 Spanish 13
Tiramisu 93 Cavalcanti di Bonvicino, Duke Marco Polo 7 Spumoni 11
Zuccotto 95 Ippolito 9 Marsala 10, 21, 48 Stabilizers 10, 16, 17, 22, 27,
Vanilla Charles | 9 Marzipan 11, 16 28, 30
Cherry Cup 89 Chinese 7, 13 Medici, Caterine de’ 8 Stancampiano, Gelateria,
Duomo 86 Cones 11, 19, 103, Mondello 14 Giovanni, Umberto 15, 24
Grandma’s Gelato Cake 85 Costanza, Corrado 14, 77 Moors 13 Temperature 17, 21, 28
Vanilla Gelato 35 Crema vecchia maniera 18 Naples 9 Torta gelato 11, 16
Zabaglione Gelato with Cremeria del Corso 22-24 Noto 14, 77 Tortoni, Alessandro 9
Figs 48 Cremolata 10 Palermo 14-16 Trattato di cucina teorico-
Zuccotto 95 Dai Dai 24-27 Pan di Spagna 9, 11, 21 practica 9
Digestive 9 Panna montata 13 Turks 7, 24
Affogato 13 Elli, Claudio and Enrico 21-24 Pasta reale 16 Tuscany 16, 18, 21, 24, 95
Alcohol 10, 13, 28, 30, 106 England 9 Pasteurization 15, 17, 21, Vin santo 10, 102
Almond milk 14, 76, 77 Equipment (home) 30, 31, 103 Ds), 7A Vittoria Apuana 16
Antico Chiosco 14 FateaOMmee2i Persia 7 Vivoli, Piero 21
Arabs 7, 13 Field, Carol 95 Pezzi duri 11, 27 Zabaglione 8
Artigianale 7, 16 Florence 8, 16, 21 Piedmont 21, 37 Zuccotto 11, 20, 21

ROT ETE TE,

Pamela Sheldon Johns is a well-known cooking instructor
and the host of Italian culinary workshops throughout Italy.
She has authored fourteen cookbooks, many specializing in
Italian food such as the popular Parmigiano!
and Balsamico!,
and most recently Prosciutto, Pancetta, Salame. A regular
visitor to Italy since 1983, she and her family decided to
make Tuscany their permanent home in 2001. They now live
at Poggio Etrusco, Pamela’s fifteen-acre organic farm near
Montepulciano. Pamela has spent more than twenty years
exploring and writing about the back roads of Italian food
culture and hosts many of her food and wine workshops from
her farm in Tuscany. She returns to the United States twice
a year to teach cooking classes.

Jennifer Barry is the designer and producer of the series of

popular cookbooks on Italian foods and specialty ingredients
written by Pamela Sheldon Johns. Her book packaging and
design firm, based in Fairfax, California, specializes in cook-
books and photography books.

Jacket design by Jennifer Barry Design

Jacket photographs by Joyce Oudkerk Pool
Author photograph by Ingo Markmann

18
TEN SPEED PRESS
Berkeley
www.crownpublishing.com
www.tenspeed.com

Printed in China
 “Gelato! by Pamela Sheldon Johns reveals the secrets of the uncompromising Italian artisans who make
smooth and creamy natural ice cream the old fashioned way. With sensational recipes, fascinating stories, and photos so
appealing it’s hard not to lick the pages, Pamela captures the pure pleasure of gelato. Bravo for this enticing book!”
—Michele Scicolone, author of La Dolce Vita, A Fresh Taste of Italy, and Savoring Italy

U.S. $15.99
/ $17.99 CAN
Cooking
ISBN 978-1-58008-923-4
| | 5 S99

9"781580"089234 ll