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THE SPEAKER
KEITH HERNANDEZ
A NATURAL FARMING PRACTICTIONER,
SPEAKER, AND AGRICULTURE TRAINER FOR
NGOS’AND LGU’S
 Day 1 Introduction To Landscaping
a. Landscaping Elements
b. Landscaping Design Principles
c. Choosing The Right Color Palette (Softscape And Hardscape)
d. Common Plants And Materials
e. Location And Area ( Urban And Rural)
Day 2 Preparation
a. Tools , Material And Equipment
b. Site Clearing And Grubbing Activities
c. Rough Grading And Site Preparation Activities,

introduction
d. Plants Installation At Designated Locations As Designed,
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about
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e. Plant Support,
Day 3 Hardscaping
a. Brick And Stones
b. Pots And Concreate
c. Decks And Others
Day 4 Softscaping
a. Trimming And Pruning Landscape Plants,
b. Weeding And Cultivation,
c. Apply Fertilizer(Nutrition), Water Plants, Control And Prevent
Plant Pest And Diseases, Provide Plant Support,
d. Lawn-Grass Maintenance,
 follow
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introduction

about
 introduction
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about
www.facebook.com/projectnaturalfarming
Gmail : [email protected]
Smart : 09983343277
Elements and Principles
of Landscape Design
Landscaping combines elements of art and
science to create a functional, aesthetically
pleasing extension of indoor living to the
outdoors.

One initial purpose of landscape design is to

blend man's technology (house or building)
into the natural surroundings.

To work toward a desirable landscape

design, the landscape horticulturist must
have a working knowledge of art elements
and design principles. This Webinar Series is
intended for the Basic and commercial
landscaper with little or no training in the
use of these basic principles.
ELEMENTS OF ART LINE

Elements of art include but are SHAPE

not limited to color, line, form,
texture and scale. These
elements are never
COLOR
independent of each other, but
we will discuss their individual VALUE
natures before considering the
interactions. FORM

TEXTURE

SPACE
Color variation can best be
explained by use of a color wheel
Primary colors are red, blue and
yellow. Orange, green and violet
are called secondary colors
because they are combinations of
two primary colors. For
example, yellow and red are
combined to yield orange. Tertiary
colors are the fusion of one
primary and one secondary
color. These colors would be
between primary and secondary
colors.
Tint refers to a light value and is
accomplished by adding white to
the pure color on the color wheel,
while shade is a
dark value and is created by
adding black to the pure color on
the color wheel. Black, white and
grey are neutrals and
are compatible with any color.
Light colors and tints tend to
attract attention as do bright,
vivid colors.
Colors are combined into color schemes
for practical applications. Three basic
color schemes are monochromatic,
analogous and complementary.

A monochromatic color scheme consists

of different tints and shades of one color
and is seldom achieved in its pure form
in the landscape. An example of an
incomplete monochromatic color
scheme would
https://colorpalettes.net/tag/monochrome-green-color-palette/
include white and pink flowers with a
background of a dark pink and red brick
house.
Complementary color schemes combine
colors directly across the color wheel. For
example, red and green would be
complementary colors. A complementary
color scheme may be achieved by using
plants with green foliage against a red
brick house.

https://www.levelgreenlandscaping.com/blog/the-best-landscape-design-ideas-for-brick-buildings
Colors can be used to visually change distance
perspective. Warm colors and light tints like
red, orange, yellow and white advance an
object or area toward the observer. These
colors and tints placed near the foundation of
a house would make the house appear closer
to the street. Cool colors and deep shades like
blue, green and black recede and can be used
to make the house appear farther from the
street. Cool colors are restful while warm
colors express action and are best used in
filtered light or against a green or dark
background
Line is related to eye movement or flow.
The concept and creation of line depends
upon the purpose of the design and
existing patterns. In the overall landscape,
line is inferred by bed arrangement and
the way these beds fit or flow
together ( Figure 2 ). Line is also created
vertically by changes in plant height and
the height of tree and shrub
canopies. Line in a small area such as an
entrance or privacy garden is created by
branching habits of plants,
arrangement of leaves and/or sequence of
plant materials.
Straight lines tend to be forceful,
structural and stable and direct the
observer's eye to a point faster than
curved lines.Curved or free-flowing lines
are sometimes described as smooth,
graceful or gentle and create a relaxing,
progressive, Bmoving and natural feeling.
Straight lines tend to be forceful,
structural and stable and direct the
observer's eye to a point faster than
curved lines.Curved or free-flowing lines
are sometimes described as smooth,
graceful or gentle and create a relaxing,
progressive, Bmoving and natural feeling.
Texture describes the surface quality of
an object than can be seen or felt.
Surfaces in the landscape includes
buildings, walks, patios, groundcovers and
plants. The texture of plants differs as the
relationships between the leaves,
twigs and branches differ ( Figure 4 ).
Coarse, medium or fine could be used to
describe texture but so could smooth,
rough, glossy or dull.

https://www.nicepng.com/ourpic/u2q8q8i1e6o0r5a9_s
oftscape-textures-landscape-texture-drawing/
Scale refers to the size of an object or
objects in relation to the surroundings.
Size refers to definite measurements
while scale describes the size relationship
between adjacent objects. The size of
plantings and buildings compared on
the human scale must be considered (
https://conceptsapp.medium.com/design-process-in-landscape-
Figure 5 ). architecture-69ab523a3f35
Color, line, form, texture
and scale are tools which
are used in combinations
to adjust design principles.

Design principles include

unity, balance, transition,
focalization, proportion,
rhythm, repetition and
simplicity. All these
principles interact to yield
the intended design.
Unity is obtained by the effective
use of components in a design to
express a main idea through
consistent style. Unity
is emphasized by consistency of
character between units in the
landscape. Use of elements to
express a specific theme
within units creates harmony.
Unity can be achieved by using
mass planting and repetition.
Unity means that all parts of the
composition or landscape go
together; they fit. A natural
feeling evolves when each
activity area belongs to and
blends with the entire landscape.
Everything selected for a
landscape must complement the
central scheme and must, above
all, serve some functional
purpose.
Balance in design refers to the
equilibrium or equality of visual
attraction ( Figure 6 ).
Symmetrical balance is
achieved when one side of the
design is a mirror image of the
other side. There is a distinct
dividing line between the
two sides. Equal lines, forms,
textures or colors are on each
side of a symmetrical design.
Asymmetrical balance uses
different forms, colors and
textures to obtain balance of
visual attraction. These opposing
compositions on either side of
the central axis create equal
attraction. For example, mass
may be opposed by color or
linear dimension by height
The landscape designer
must skillfully manipulate
the design elements to
create asymmetrical
balance. The central axis
must be predetermined
and then developed by
the elements of art and
other principles of design
discussed in this
publication.
Transition is gradual change. Transition in color
can be illustrated by the radial sequence on the
color wheel (monochromatic color scheme)
previously discussed. Transition can be obtained
by the arrangement of objects with varying
textures, forms, or sizes in a logical sequential
order. For example, coarse to medium to fine
textures, round to oval to linear structural
forms, or cylindrical to globular to prostrate
plants. An unlimited number of schemes exist
by combining elements of various size, form,
texture and color to create transition ( Figure 7
). Remember, transition refers to the 3-
dimensional perspective of composition, not
just the flat or facial view.
It is possible to use transition to extend visual
dimensions beyond actual dimensions. For
example, radical lines in the private area of the
landscape can be used to Inframe and/or
focalize a lake scene. Transition of plant
materials along these lines can make the scene
become a part of the landscape ( Figure 8 )
Transition from taller to shorter plants with
textural changes from coarse to fine along focal
lines emphasizes the beauty of a lake scene.
Transition from shorter to taller plants and from
fine to coarse textures would Inframe the scene
and make it appear closer, like a painting on a
wall. Generally, transition assists in the gradual
movement of a viewer's eye to the design and
within it.
Proportion refers to the size of parts of the
design in relation to each other and to the
design as a whole. One large
towering oak may compliment an office building
but would probably dwarf a single story
residence ( Figure 9 ). A three-foot pool would
be lost in a large open lawn but would fit
beautifully into a small private area. And of
course, a colossal fountain would dominate a
private garden but could enhance a large city
plaza. Proportion in landscape design usually
relates to people and their activities. The
desired size relationships of components in a
design should pose little problem for the
designer who considers this principle routinely
in systematic thought processes.
Rhythm is achieved when the
elements of a design create a
feeling of motion which leads the
viewer's eye through or
even beyond the designed area.
Tools like color schemes, line and
form can be repeated to attain
rhythm in landscape
design. Rhythm reduces confusion
in the design.
Focalization involves the leading
of visual observation toward a
feature by placement of this
feature at the vanishing
point between radial or
approaching lines. Straight radial
lines as in Figure 10 create a
strong focalization when
compared to curved lines. The
viewer's eye is quickly forced
along straight lines to a focal
point. Generally, weaker or
flowing lines of focalization are
desirable in the residential
landscape.
Transition of plants or other objects along
these
lines can strengthen or weaken the
focalization. Curved lines are stronger
when curved toward each other than
when
curved outward. Indirect focalization is
created by lines curved in the same
direction. Focalization can be adjusted by
plant materials along the lines to create
symmetrical or asymmetrical focalization.
Asymmetrical focalization is indirect
while symmetrical focalization is more
direct, creating stronger focalization.
Since focalization can be used to direct
attention to a point, traffic in an area is
usually directed to that point.
Therefore, focalization could be used to
direct traffic in a garden area. Guidance of
view toward features of commercial,
aesthetic or cultural value may attract the
eye of the unaware without conscious
effort.
Repetition refers to the repeated use of
features like plants with identical shape,
line, form, texture and/or color. Too
much repetition creates monotony but
when used effectively can lead to rhythm,
focalization or emphasis. Unity can be
achieved better by no other means than
repetition. Think of repetition as not
having too much variety in the design
which creates a cluttered or busy
appearance
Simplicity goes hand-in-hand with
repetition and can be achieved by
elimination of unnecessary detail. Too
much
variety or detail creates confusion of
perception. Simplicity is the reduction of a
design to its simplest, functional form,
which avoids unnecessary cost and
maintenance.
STEPS IN DEVELOPING A LANDSCAPE DESIGN

1. Develop a plot plan.

2. Conduct a site analysis.
3. Assess family needs and
desires.
4. Locate activity areas.
5. Design activity areas.
6. Plant selection and
placement.
It is difficult to visualize certain aspects of
design without putting it to scale on paper.
The designer should think with
drawings or sketches and make the mistakes
on paper not on the landscape site.
The plot plan should consist of
1)accurate house placement on the lot,
2) accurate lot and house dimensions with
window and door
3) existing driveways and/or walks. It saves a
lot of time if the customer has an accurate plat
of the house and lot and a house floor plan
with outside dimensions. These plans maybe
secured from the builder or developer
Although the floor plan scale will probably be
different from the scale you use, it will still be
easier to convert the scale than to physically
measure the house, lot, etc.
It is difficult to visualize certain aspects of
design without putting it to scale on paper.
The designer should think with
drawings or sketches and make the mistakes
on paper not on the landscape site.
The plot plan should consist of
1)accurate house placement on the lot,
2) accurate lot and house dimensions with
window and door
3) existing driveways and/or walks. It saves a
lot of time if the customer has an accurate plat
of the house and lot and a house floor plan
with outside dimensions. These plans maybe
secured from the builder or developer
Although the floor plan scale will probably be
different from the scale you use, it will still be
easier to convert the scale than to physically
measure the house, lot, etc.
Once the house position on the lot has been
determined, this should be drawn to a
predetermined scale on tracing paper placed
over grid paper. Commonly, 1 inch equals 5 feet
or 1 inch equals 10 feet, but you may choose
another scale based upon your drawing
equipment and project dimensions.
Recommended drawing equipment includes:
drafting pencils, T-square, scaled rulers,
triangle, art gum eraser, drafting tape, grid
paper (8 or 10 squares to the inch) and
tracing or drafting paper. The designer must
have a firm, steady working surface.
Conduct a Site Analysis
A complete survey of the customer's
property is essential. The plot plan will
assist you in organizing the information
from the site analysis. A thorough site
analysis can save you time and money.
Existing vegetation, natural factors and
features, views, noise levels, utility
placement, easements/setback lines and
primary architectural features of the house
should be noted.
Existing plants should be examined. Tree condition
and placement should be recorded. Trees on adjoining
property that would affect shade patterns on the
customer's lot should also be surveyed. This
information is essential to designers, especially since it
is their responsibility to blend this home into the
natural or existing setting, or to create a setting to be
functional and to complement the structure. Shrubs,
groundcovers and grasses should also be examined
as to their condition and potential use.
The landscape horticulturalist may also be involved in
protecting existing vegetation during construction. It
may be desirable to block vehicular traffic from areas
close to valuable trees.
Natural factors and features of a landscape include
house orientation, land form, soil conditions, rainfall
distribution, seasonal wind pattern and micro-
climatic conditions. House orientation affects the
exposure of various portions of the house to the sun
( Figure 11 ). This knowledge is essential so the
designer can provide shade in important spots and
locate activity areas appropriately. For example, a
southeastern exposure is generally the most
comfortable spot year-round while a western slope
will be hot in the summer
Land form refers to slope or land elevation changes.
It determines surface water drainage patterns and is
essential knowledge for the landscape horticulturalist
in developing functional and aesthetically pleasing
landscapes.
Soil characteristics will determine selection and
placement of plants. Soil pH, nutrient and
waterholding capacity and drainage should be
considered. Native fertility levels and soil
characteristics may be indicated by existing
vegetation.
Mahogany on the property usually indicate dry,
infertile soil. Native trees usually indicate poorly
drained soils exist or did exist in that area.
Rainfall distribution can be determined on a regional
basis. Periods of heavy rainfall can magnify the
problems of shallow soils or a hardpan resulting in
unwanted standing water. Sometimes these
conditions may require the engineering of drainage
modifications by some type of tiles or pipe. Often the
conditions simply require careful plant selection.

Predominate wind directions differ with the area of

the state, the season and the time of day. Where the
wind direction differs in summer and monsoon,
plantings can be arranged to block the rain winds
from a patio and direct summer breezes into this
same area ( Figure 12 ). While conducting the site
analysis, be sure to look for existing wind breaks
provided by plants and structures on the property or
on adjacent property.
Views should be identified that
are to be preserved or accented.
Likewise, less desirable views
must be considered so screening
can be planned. Views and
activities 30 feet (9 m) or so from
the property line must be
surveyed. During the site analysis,
views should be observed from
inside the house to outside and
from outside to inside the house (
Figure 13 ).
Observe the neighbors' property from
positions on the customer's lot and
view the customer's property from
the
neighbors' lots if possible. The house
should also be observed at multiple
angles from the street. Pictures from
an instant camera can be helpful in
reminding the designer of specific
views when sitting back at the
drawing table.
Observe the neighbors' property from
positions on the customer's lot and
view the customer's property from
the
neighbors' lots if possible. The house
should also be observed at multiple
angles from the street. Pictures from
an instant camera can be helpful in
reminding the designer of specific
views when sitting back at the
drawing table.
Surrounding distractions must be
identified. You may need to question
neighbors or the property owner
about these factors. Record a noise
source like roads, factories, saw mills,
etc. and plot the direction and
distance of the source. The
time of day for peak noise levels can
be important as well. It may be https://silverbirchgardens.co.uk/landscaping-to-block-noise/

necessary to return to the site during

such a period. Other distractions
could include glare or odors.
Utility lines may be on poles or
underground. Locate the position of
these on the plot plan. Also locate the
electrical meter on the house, the air-
conditioner unit and water outlets.
Consider the position of television
and telephone cables, water lines and
sewage lines, or a septic tank and field
line. Television cable companies and
the telephone company will usually
locate their service lines accurately.
However, these services must be
requested in advance.
Architectural style of the house is of
primary importance. Specific details of
interest must be identified during the
site analysis. Things like the height of
windows, the height of house corners
from the ground and overhang widths
should be considered. Is the house
guttered or should it be? If so, locate
the outlets. Notice major traffic
problems so proper access and link

movement can be provided.

Assess Family Needs
A landscape should be an outdoor
extension of indoor living areas. It
should be functional and provide space
for family
activities. Before the designer can
create such an environment, knowledge
of certain family characteristics is
essential.
link
 follow
organic
Topics
introduction

about
 introduction
Topics
follow

about
THE SPEAKER
KEITH HERNANDEZ
A NATURAL FARMING PRACTICTIONER,
SPEAKER, AND AGRICULTURE TRAINER FOR
NGOS’AND LGU’S
 Day 1 Introduction To Landscaping
a. Landscaping Elements
b. Landscaping Design Principles
c. Choosing The Right Color Palette (Softscape And Hardscape)
d. Common Plants And Materials
e. Location And Area ( Urban And Rural)
Day 2 Preparation
a. Tools , Material And Equipment
b. Site Clearing And Grubbing Activities
c. Rough Grading And Site Preparation Activities,

introduction
d. Plants Installation At Designated Locations As Designed,
follow

about
Topics

e. Plant Support,
Day 3 Hardscaping
a. Brick And Stones
b. Pots And Concreate
c. Decks And Others
Day 4 Softscaping
a. Trimming And Pruning Landscape Plants,
b. Weeding And Cultivation,
c. Apply Fertilizer(Nutrition), Water Plants, Control And Prevent
Plant Pest And Diseases, Provide Plant Support,
d. Lawn-Grass Maintenance,
 introduction
Topics
follow

about
www.facebook.com/projectnaturalfarming
Gmail : [email protected]
Smart : 09983343277
Develop outdoor use areas
It is easier to develop each of the outdoor use
areas separately and later combine them into
the overall plan. Imagine yourself sitting within
or using each area as you develop the
design ideas. For example, to design a patio
space, first decide on the elements that would
make a successful seating area. You may include
seats, tables, overhead shade structures,
a sense of enclosure, views , water features, or
other elements. Remember to keep in mind the
important principles from your site analysis
so that your proposed use areas do not conflict
with other elements, such as utility lines, water
drainage, and other existing conditions.
Value of Landscaping
An ideal home landscape design should have value in four
ways: aesthetically, economically, functionally, and environmentally.

Aesthetic value can be achieved in many ways: by enhancing

beautiful areas, creating new ones, or screening unattractive
parts of the property. Using features in a landscape that
impact all five senses can add to your pleasure and enjoyment
of the landscape.

Economic
A well-designed landscape can increase the value of your
home and property by as much as 15 percent. Landscaping
can also reduce energy costs by buffering seasonal temperatures.
Research indicates that heating or cooling bills could be
reduced by as much as 30 percent by the proper placement of
plants around the home. For example, proper placement of
shade trees could provide cooling in summer,
Function
Landscaping offers a special functional value, too. Wellplaced
trees, shrubs, turf, and construction features increase
the amount of the property you use. A little shade in the
right place, a little sun in another, a place for the kids to play,
a private patio, pool, or deck—all these add to the
enjoyment of being outside.
Landscaping helps you solve problems and cut down on
maintenance. For example, groundcover used on a steep hill
in the yard can help you avoid lawn maintenance headaches,
and groundcover on a very steep slope may be essential to
prevent erosion. https://www.johnson.k-state.edu/lawn-garden/agent-
articles/miscellaneous/defining-sun-requirements-for-
plants.html
Environment
Environmental benefits of a good landscape design can provide
climate control and many other energy-saving measures.
For example, trees and shrubs can influence wind, water, light,
noise, and temperature around the home landscape. Water
can be conserved and used more efficiently. Plants can also
provide erosion control and a habitat for wildlife. In addition,
plants in the landscape help clean the air of dust and some
pollutants. Proper plant selection and placement can deter fire
and criminal activity.
It is important to be able to measure and calculate surface areas. It might be necessary to
calculate, for example, the surface area of the cross-section of a canal or the surface area
of a site
The height (h) of a triangle, a rhombus, a parallelogram or a trapezium, is the distance
from a top corner to the opposite side called base (b). The height is always
perpendicular to the base; in other words, the height makes a right angle with the
base. An example of a right angle is the corner of this page.

In the case of a square or a rectangle, the expression length (l) is commonly used
instead of base and width (w) instead of height. In the case of a circle the expression
diameter (d) is used.
TRIANGLES
The surface area or surface (A)
of a triangle is calculated by
the formula:
A (triangle) = 0.5 x base x
height = 0.5 x b x h ..... (1)
Triangles can have many
shapes but the same formula
is used for all of them.
Some examples of triangles
EXAMPLE
Calculate the surface area of the triangles no. 1, no. 1a and no. 2 It can be seen that triangles no. 1, no. 1a and no. 2
have the same surface; the shapes of
Given Answer the triangles are different, but the base and the height
Triangles no. 1 and no. 1a: base = 3 cm are in all three cases the same, so the surface is the
height = 2 cm same.
Formula: A = 0.5 x base x height The surface of these triangles is expressed in square
= 0.5 x 3 cm x 2 cm = 3 cm2 centimeters (written as cm2).
Triangle no. 2: base =3 cm Surface areas can also be expressed in square
decimeters (dm2), square meters (m2), etc...
height = 2 cm
A = 0.5 x 3 cm x 2 cm = 3 cm
Landscape drawing: To develop a garden, both
the shapes and sizes must be known
before taking up the development. Therefore,
the drawing of an object, which contains all the
necessary information, like actual shape,
accurate sizes, method of development,
etc., required for the development of an object
is called landscape drawing.
Since, the landscaping of an object is drawn well
before the object is constructed,
the person who draws it must have a clear picture
of the shape of the object in his mind. Landscaping
drawing may be either representational of graphic.
The representation drawing shows only the
appearance of an object, whereas the graphic
drawing shows the accurate sizes and shapes of
the object. Since landscape drawing is a graphical
medium of expression of technical
details without the barrier of a language, it is called
the universal language of landscapers.
Drawing Equipment and Instruments
Since the landscape drawing shows the
accurate sizes and actual shapes of the
object, it must be drawn to scale with the aid of
geometrical instruments.
Drawing board: The drawing board is made of
well seasoned pine wood. This is rigid, sturdy
and light in weight. Along the left edge of the
board, a groove is cut, and a perfectly
supporting guide for the T-square to slide on.
The drawing board must be placed on the table
with the working edge always to be at the left
side.
OTHER TOOLS USED IN BASIC DESIGNING

T SQUARE TRIAGLES PROTRACTORS CLINOGRAPH

MINI DRAFTER PENSILS SCALES FRENCH CURVES

Tile Block: A title block is an important
feature provided on a technical
drawing or with an associated
document for recording the technical
and administrative details. It is placed
on the right hand bottom corner of
the drawing sheet. The space in the
title block is divided into:
i) Identification zone and (ii)
Additional information zone.
The identification zone includes the
following basic information:
- Registration or identification number
- Title of the drawing
- The name of the legal owner of the
drawing, i.e., name of the firm or the
company
The additional information zone https://markstewart.com/news/essential-elements-of-a-set-of-working-drawings/

includes the following items:

- Indicative items
- Technical items
- Administrative items
The indicative items are: the symbol indicating the
system of projection employed for the drawing, the
main scale of the drawing, and the linear unit of the
dimension if it is other than the millimeter.
The technical items are: method of indicating the
surface texture, method of indicating the geometric
tolerances, values of general tolerances and the other
relevant standards. Method of Numbering the
Multiple sheet drawings: If more than one sheet is
required for a component or an assembly, then the
same registration or identification number must
be indicated by means of a sequential sheet number.
In addition, the total number of sheets should be
shown on sheet 1, for example, Sheet No. n/p.
Where, n is the sequential sheet number and p is the
total number of sheets.
https://www.pinterest.ph/Hineroutdoorliving/landscape-plans-renderings/
Landscape (garden) symbols: Garden symbols are
nothing but the pictures, which are
used for representing the various garden components
(features). They are mainly used in
preparing the garden plan or design. The symbols
cover primarily the garden surfaces such as steps,
different typesof shrubs, trees, climbers, perennials
and other plants. On plan, the symbols are drawn to
scale wherever possible and make the transition from
broad outline plan to detailed structural and planting
plans. When drawing symbols, generally it should look
as much as possible like the shape of the plant or
structure it is representing.
Although many tools and implements may be used for a
single landscaping operation, use of a right type of tool
for a particular operation to achieve maximum
efficiency and quick turnout of work is indisputable.

Therefore selection of suitable tools/implements is

essential for carrying out various horticultural
operations. For example several tools are there for
cutting branches of plants such as secature, tree pruner,
pruning saw, carpenter’s saw etc. If the thickness of
branch is about 1-2 cm, the secature may be more
suitable, similarly if the branch in 4-6 cm is thickness
pruning saw is the proper tool and if the branch is still
bigger (more than 8cm) carpenter’s saw may be
required. Therefore one has to exercise option to select
a suitable tool/implement to carryout various operations
from the stage of land preparation to harvesting.
The following tools, implements and
plant protection equipment are
commonly used in Landscaping.
Analyzing the site’s
environmental conditions
and taking inventory of
other conditions of the site,
including soil, is an
important step. Accurate
analysis of the site will help
you understand existing
conditions.
You can then modify areas that need improvements and make the most
of natural areas. Note wind, sun, and shade patterns, as well as water
movement and terrain levels that impact where you locate play,
cooking, garden, entertaining, pool, and other activity areas of
the landscape.
Observing Over Time
For the most accurate site analysis, record
observations of the site for a year before you start to
change any of it.
It would be a good idea to go through one growing
season to determine the best areas for spring bulbs,
perennials, or other plants.

Take time to determine where the favored pathways

run. Where is the best spot to store gardening tools
or equipment? It takes time to see the best views to
enhance or the less attractive views to conceal.
Remember to conduct part of your site analysis from
inside your house, observing the views from windows
and doors through the season
Checklist
1. Sun patterns and movements by season across the property
2. Hot areas, shady areas, and cool areas
3. Areas that need shade
4. Windy areas
5. Noise screens
6. Existing soil conditions, especially around home foundation
7. Soil test results
8. Poorly drained, wet, soggy, or low areas
9. Surface water drainage routes, including downspouts,
drainage swales, and areas water drains
10.Areas where erosion is occurring
11.Slope of property, including banks, gullies, ditches, hills, etc.
Scientists divide soil into 12 textural
classes. The soil texture triangle can help
determine which class of soil you have.
›› After conducting the jar test to
determine the percentages of sand, silt,
and clay in your soil, locate the
percentage of clay
in your soil on the left side of the triangle
and follow the purple (clay) line across.
›› Next, find the percentage of sand along
the bottom of the triangle and follow the
blue (sand) line up to where it intersects
with the purple (clay) line you identified.
›› The green (silt) line at this intersection
represents the percentage of the silt in
your soil sample. The shaded area that
contains the point where the lines
intersect is you soil’s textural class.
Landscapers must determine the
texture, structure, and pH of a
given soil to properly identify it.

Soil texture is described as the

relative proportions of different
size mineral particles in
a soil. Sand, silt, and clay, the
major mineral particles, are
responsible for the size and
number of the soil’s pore spaces.
Soil pore space determines the
amount of oxygen, the
drainage rate, and capacity of
soil to hold nutrients.
Site Assessment — Basemap & Soils
A site assessment evaluates the
current conditions of the garden to
determine the resources, constrains,
and opportunities that should be
considered in design. The
site assessment assignment below
includes two parts that focus first on
creating a basemap and then on
using this basemap as a tool to assess
soil characteristics.
Using tracing paper over the
basemap, outline the
following characteristics:
›› Areas of erosion and
compaction
›› Low areas that are
commonly wet
›› Exposed rock
›› Shallow soils
›› Areas where the soil
abruptly changes texture or
structure
CLEARING AND GRUBBING ACTIVITIES

• Unwanted vegetation and debris are removed in

accordance with the instructions

• Trees designed to be retained are protected in

• accordance with standards.

• Site is cleared using prescribed tools and

equipment
• use appropriate safety protective devices
• Wastes are gathered and disposed in accordance
with environmental standards
CLEARING AND GRUBBING ACTIVITIES
Unwanted vegetation and debris

May include but are not limited to:

• Grasses

• Shrubs trees and tree stumps

• Stones

• Construction debris
Rough site grading is performed to achieve
desired
elevations or slopes by cut or fill in
accordance with thedesigned grading
plans, specifications or instructions.

Site is graded roughly using prescribed

tools and equipment in accordance with
standards of rough grading practice.
Site is graded to drain surface water and to shape the
land in accordance with the designed grading plans
and instructions

Newly graded site is protected against human, animal

and mechanical disturbance, and other potential
hazards like inclement weather
Existing Plant Materials
o What plants are currently in the landscape?
o What is their condition?
o Which will be kept?

Extensional Landscape
o Subdivision covenants
o Views to frame or mask
o Noise
o Neighborhood landscape style
o Privacy and security
Working with existing soil to
create sustainable gardens

Too often, gardeners try to amend or

modify their soils to fit the needs of
poorly selected vegetation. Continually
modifying soils and adding water,
fertilizers, pesticides, and other
elements can be wasteful, inefficient,
and damaging to the environment.
Sustainable gardens can save a
homeowner resources, time, and
money by incorporating plants that are
well adapted to surviving in the sites
existing soil conditions.
Sandy Soils
Plant roots can grow with ease in sandy soils, but water drains quickly and nutrient
ions do not readily bind to sand particles. As a result, sandy soils can lack moisture and
nutrients.

Strategies for working with sandy soil:

›› Grow drought-tolerant plants that are native to sandy soils or can adapt well to these
conditions.
›› Incorporate organic matter into the soil to improve water retention. Organic matter
decomposes relatively quickly in sandy soils; to address this issue, add a mix of
materials in various stages of decomposition such as humus, straw, or shredded bark.
››Mulch planting beds to retain water.
›› Frequently provide plants with small amounts of water, to give plant roots the moisture
they need while minimizing the leaching of nutrients.
›› Grow green manures, such as clover, to add organic matter and nitrogen.
Clay Soils
Soils with heavy clay content typically lack good drainage and aeration. Clay soils are
prone to compaction and when dry can become very hard. However, clay soils can hold on
to nutrients and are generally quite fertile.

Strategies for working with clay soil:

›› Grow plants adapted to heavy soils. ›› Use a fork rather than a shovel when cultivating the soil.
››Work the soil only when it is moist, not dry or wet, to avoid compacting. Let large clods
air dry before breaking them up with a rake.
›› Apply mulch to maintain organic matter. Mulch also helps minimize compaction from
rain and shields the soil from the sun.
›› Install pathways in the garden to minimize compaction from foot traffic.
›› Irrigate the soil slowly to avoid waterlogging.
Wet Soils
In wet or poorly drained soils, pore spaces are waterlogged and aeration is poor. Plants
not adapted to continually wet soils will suffer from disease, decline, and eventual death.

Strategies for working with wet soil:

›› Grow plants adapted to wet soils. In the eastern states, for example, good choices
include ›› Create raised planting beds.
›› Divert rainwater from the waterlogged area using practices such as rainwater harvesting or
bioswales.

Acid Soils
Acid or “sour” soils are often found in areas where rainwater leaches calcium and
magnesium from the soil. Acid rain and fertilizers can also acidify the soil. Most garden
plants do best in slightly acidic soil, with a pH of 6.2 to 6.8, but typically can tolerate levels
as low as 5.5.

Strategies for working with acid soil:

›› Grow plants adapted to acidic soils›› Certain animal manures, leguminous cover crops, or compost
to help raise a soil’s pH.
Mix in 1 to 3 inches of compost, then mulch with the same amount every year.
Alkaline Soils
Alkaline or “sweet” soils have a pH higher than neutral, or 7. These soils are common
in arid regions like the southwestern US, where evaporation exceeds precipitation and
calcium and magnesium accumulate in the soil. Nitrate-based fertilizers can also raise soil
pH. When soil pH is higher than 8, the solubility and ultimate availability of nutrients to
plants is significantly reduced.

Strategies for working with alkaline soil:

›› Grow plants adapted to alkaline soils.
›› Use compost made from oak leaves, sawdust, or other wood products that can
gradually lower soil pH.
›› Grow vegetables and herbs in raised beds that contain compost-rich soil.
Saline Soils
Saline soils are often found in arid, poorly drained, and coastal regions. In arid areas with a
high water table, dissolved salts are pulled up from the groundwater by capillary action.
In coastal areas, wind-blown salt from the ocean builds up in the soil. Fertilizers can also
increase salinity, and in some areas the use of salt on roads can contribute to the problem.
Soil tests such as those conducted to determine pH can also establish the salinity of soils.

Strategies for working with saline soil:

›› Grow plants adapted to saline soils. ›› In arid areas, use mulch to lessen salt accumulation by
reducing evaporation at the soil
surface. Avoid mulching with animal manures or other organic materials that are high in
salt or those, such as wood ash, that can raise soil pH.
›› Incorporate compost or other organic materials that are low in salt, if soil drainage is
poor.
Compacted Soils
Healthy soil typically has more than 40 percent pore space, ranging from large pores,
which promote drainage, to small pores, which help store water. This combination enables
air and water to penetrate, promotes good drainage, and allows soil organisms to flourish
and plant roots to grow. Compaction by machinery, foot traffic, and pounding rain makes
sustaining life in the soil difficult. Compacted soils can flood and also be droughty, since
water runs off rather than infiltrating. Repair compacted soils by rebuilding its spongy
structure.

Strategies for working with overly compacted soils:

›› Top-dress planting beds with several inches of compost to improve lightly compacted
soils. Earthworms and other soil fauna will gradually pull the compost down into the
soil, loosening the soil and improving water-holding capacity. A 2- or 3-inch layer of
shredded leaf mulch or wood chips will provide similar benefits.
›› Cultivate the soil lightly, taking caution to avoid large plant roots. Incorporating compost
into the soil can speed up the healing process.
›› Use more extreme physical aeration techniques to repair highly compacted soils. Be
cautious when working under and around existing vegetation to avoid damaging the
root system. Tree experts can provide guidance on the most appropriate methods,
which may include air-excavating tools, vertical mulching, or radial trenching.
›› Protect the soil from re-compaction. Create pathways and use garden walls, fences, or
mulches to keep foot traffic off the soil.
Strategies for protecting garden soils from compaction:
›› Avoid working garden soils when wet.
›› Avoid leaving soils bare. Cover soils with either vegetation or mulch.
›› Create pathways and designated areas for walking and driving.
›› Use walls, fences, and mulch to protect gardens from foot and vehicular traffic.
Special considerations for gardens that are
being newly developed or redeveloped
The development of a property can have a
profound effect on soil quality. The increase in
heavy equipment and overall traffic during this
process can easily lead to the compaction
of soils. By reducing air and water movement,
soil compaction greatly inhibits the growth
and vitality of plants and soil microorganisms.
Toxic chemicals from materials used during
the construction process can leach into the soil,
further degrading quality. In areas that are
undergoing development, it is important to
establish a strategy for protecting soils.
Strategies for protecting soils from development:
›› Prior to development, conduct a site analysis,
mapping areas of healthy soils and minimal, moderate,
and severe compaction. To the greatest extent
practicable, avoid grading, vegetation removal, or
other disturbances to healthy soils. Have site features
that require soil disturbance and compaction, such as
driveways, building foundations, and patios
constructed in areas where soil is degraded.
››Work with the building and landscape practitioners
to develop a soil preservation plan. The plan should
clearly outline the areas that are not to be disturbed.
Areas to be preserved should be fenced off and
preservation directives should be clearly
communicated to construction personnel.
During construction, enforce tight limits on
disturbance by defining perimeters around
constructed features. As a general guideline we
recommends that disturbance be limited to 40 feet
(12m) beyond the building perimeter; 10 feet (3m)
beyond surface walkways, patios, parking, and utilities
that are less than 12 inches (30cm) in diameter; 15
feet (6m) beyond primary roadways curbs and main
utility branch trenches; and 25 feet (8m) beyond
constructed areas with permeable surfaces, such as
stormwater detention facilities and recreational fields.

Work with the building and landscape practitioners to

designate areas for on-site parking and equipment/
material storage. Prioritize the use of areas that are
already degraded or will be compacted in order to
support a future use, such as patio, driveway,
or building site. Explore options to use existing roads
or parking areas adjacent to the
property for access and storage.
In areas where compaction cannot be avoided,
carefully harvest and store the topsoil for
reuse.

During the construction process, spread thick

layers of mulch over areas of soil that
may receive occasional traffic. Sheets of
plywood can be added on top of the mulch to
help spread the weight in areas of repeated
traffic.

Use the lightest equipment possible to

complete the job.
Row preparation
• Allow water to drain away from plant roots
• Provide furrows for irrigation
• Allow air to enter soil
• Help plants through periods of high rainfall
If the garden is large enough, make rows 36
inches apart. Where space is a problem, some
vegetables can be planted in rows closer than
this, but they will require more care during the
growing season.
Straight beds are nice but not necessary. In
small gardens worked with a hoe, rake or other
hand tools, straight beds are not as important.
If the garden is large and is worked with a
rototiller or garden tractor, the rows should be
made as straight as possible.
Use a shovel or rake to pull the soil up into beds
8 to 10 inches high. Pack beds or allow them to
settle before planting. Also level the tops of the
beds and widen them to about 6 to 8 inches
before planting. Plant on top of the beds (
Test your plan: Stake out your
proposed landscape plan. Before
you order plants and dig
the holes, test your plan. Take
your sketches outside
and take time to “stake out” your
proposed landscape.
Use short stakes to locate drives
and walkways. Use
taller stakes to define shrub
borders. By tying string to
the stakes, areas, volumes and
lines become even more
clearly defined.
LAYERING
Layering is a method by which adventitious roots are caused to form on
a stem while it is still attached to the parent plant.
Advantages
• It is an easy method and does not require much care and
arrangements like cuttings.
• The mother plant supplies nutrient and other metabolites as it
remains attached while rooting.
• Some of the species which do not root by cuttings can be propagated
by layering
Disadvantages
• A number of new plants that can be produced from any given number
of plants or mother
• plants by layering is low when compared with cutting
• It is very costly method where labour charges are very high
The methods of layering can be broadly divided into two main classes
• Ground layering
• Air layering
Ground layering
In these methods, the rooting of layers takes place in
the ground media or in pots containing
rooting media. Different kinds of ground layering are
as follows.
1. Simple layering: It consists of bending down a shoot
and burying a part of it in the soil so
that the tip is in air. The buried portion is wounded
by a single stroke upwards on the underside of the
shoot to be buried. The layered branch is held firmly
in position by pegs and large stones on the surface of
the soil above the bending. Roots are formed at the
buried portion where the cut has been
made. The bent portion is completely covered with
soil.
Ex: Rose, Jasmine, etc.
2. Compound or Serpentine layering: This is similar to simple
layering except that the flexible branches are covered with soil in
several places. The shoots are alternately covered and exposed
over
their entire length.
Ex: Clematis, Peperomia.

3. Trench layering or Etiolation method: Etiolation refers to

growing in darkness and in
this method; a branch is covered over its entire length to produce
from all nodes or buds,
wherein roots are formed. One year old plant is planted slantingly
at an angle of 30º to 45º and about 1m apart in the ground. Once
these plants are established, they are bent and laid
flat over the bottom of a trench of about 5 cm deep. When buds
start to swell, a layer of 2.5 cm soil is placed on the branch. As the
shoots grow, more soil is added until they are covered to a depth
of about 12-15 cm so that the shoots are etiolated to form roots.
4. Mound layering or Stooling: It is a form of
layering, in which the already established
parent plant is cut back to the ground and
resulting growths from the stud or stool are
covered with soil to one-half its height. The soil
is applied at intervals as the shoots grow.
5. Tip layering: The tips of current season’s
shoots are buried in the soil. The tip of the
shoot
curves upward to produce a sharp bend in the
stem from which roots develop.
What to Plant Look at the space where you intend to
plant the tree or shrub. Estimate the height and
diameter of a tree or shrub that will fit there. Check to
see if the soil stays wet, or if it drains quickly. Figure
out how much space the roots will have. Ask yourself
what role this plant will play in your yard. Will it be the
center of attention? Is it part of a living wall that
divides one part of the yard from another? Once you
know the function, soil type, sunlight, temperature,
water, size, and root requirements for the plant, start
thumbing through books and catalogs to find
something to fit your need. Then, head out to a
nursery to see what they have. Look for healthy,
disease- and pest-free plants with well-formed root
and branch systems. Resist any temptation to dig your
own tree or shrub from the wild. Wild-dug plants
often die after transplanting because they lose many
roots.

Purdue University
Once you know what kind of plant youíre going to buy, you must decide if you intend to buy a
bare-root, machine-balled, balled and burlapped, or containerized plant. How you treat the
tree or shrub at planting time will partially depend upon how the roots were prepared for
planting.

Bare-root - These are usually the least expensive

nursery plants. Nursery workers dig them when they
are dormant. You must protect the roots from drying
out and from mechanical damage. You should plant
them only while they are dormant.

Machine-balled -Nursery workers dig these plants

bare-root, then pack the roots in sphagnum peat moss
or wood shavings and wrap them in plastic. Handle
them carefully to avoid breaking roots. These, too,
should be planted while theyíre still dormant. ï

Purdue University
Planting a Containerized Tree

Pull out wound roots

The soil should be tilled as deeply as
possible, at least 8 to 10 inches. Deep
tilling loosens soil and lets vegetable roots
go deeper. Turn each shovelful of soil
completely over
Staking and Guying To keep trees from tipping
and the roots from moving too much, stake any
bare-root tree larger than 6-feet tall, and balled and
burlapped trees larger than 10-feet tall Small trees
usually donít need the support. Drive stakes into
the undisturbed ground before you backfill the
hole, to be sure you donít drive the stakes through
the root ball and damage the roots. Larger trees
should be guyed. To guy a tree, use three wires
attached to three stakes. Thread a one foot piece of
hose on each wire and have the hose-covered bit of
wire loop around the tree at the lowest branch
crotches.
 follow
organic
Topics
introduction

about
 introduction
Topics
follow

about
THE SPEAKER
KEITH HERNANDEZ
A NATURAL FARMING PRACTICTIONER,
SPEAKER, AND AGRICULTURE TRAINER FOR
NGOS’AND LGU’S
 Day 1 Introduction To Landscaping
a. Landscaping Elements
b. Landscaping Design Principles
c. Choosing The Right Color Palette (Softscape And Hardscape)
d. Common Plants And Materials
e. Location And Area ( Urban And Rural)
Day 2 Preparation
a. Tools , Material And Equipment
b. Site Clearing And Grubbing Activities
c. Rough Grading And Site Preparation Activities,

introduction
d. Plants Installation At Designated Locations As Designed,
follow

about
Topics

e. Plant Support,
Day 3 Hardscaping
a. Brick And Stones
b. Pots And Concreate
c. Decks And Others
Day 4 Softscaping
a. Trimming And Pruning Landscape Plants,
b. Weeding And Cultivation,
c. Apply Fertilizer(Nutrition), Water Plants, Control And Prevent
Plant Pest And Diseases, Provide Plant Support,
d. Lawn-Grass Maintenance,
 introduction
Topics
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about
www.facebook.com/projectnaturalfarming
Gmail : [email protected]
Smart : 09983343277
Hard Materials

• Natural: Fieldstone, flagstone,

aggregate, river slicks, etc
• Manmade: Brick, concrete, tile, etc
• Mortared vs dry laid
DESIGNING WITH

HARDSCAPES
• “Blending” vs “Matching”
• Everything is a room or hallway
• Outdoor rooms: floors, walls, ceilings
• Creativity and beauty by using a few
materials in
new ways
Eric king
Eric king
Eric king
Eric king
Eric king
Building a deck or patio can increase the living space
functionality of a home. These spaces are
cost-effective and straightforward projects that can
also significantly boost property values —
and property appeal.
From hosting family barbecues and birthday parties to
a quiet, relaxing outdoor retreat, decks
and patios are the most versatile hardscaping projects
you can add to your backyard.
They are as eye-catching as they are functional. You
can build them large or small, fit to host the
whole neighborhood or the tucked-away respite for a
relaxing drink after work. Patio design ideas
and hardscaped decks are numerous and trending.
We’ve got you covered on where to start.
Deck
a structure of planks or plates,
approximately horizontal, extending
across a ship or boat at any of various
levels, especially one of those at the
highest level and open to the weather.

In architecture, a deck is a flat surface

capable of supporting weight, similar to
a floor, but typically constructed
outdoors, often elevated from the
ground, and usually connected to a
building. In the United Kingdom it is
usually called a decked patio or area. The
term is a generalization from the deck of
a ship.
Deck or Patio Materials
Decks and patios are frequently constructed from these
materials, which you can sample at your local hardware store or
masonry distributor:
• Stonework: Laid stonework is perfect for courtyards and patio
entryways aiming for a classical, European ambiance.
• Tile: Ornate and chic, tiles are a stand-out base or trim Censored 
material to add to hardscaped patios and decks alike.
• Pavers: Patio pavers blend the look of stone and tile in an
easy-to-install base material great for walkways, driveways and
garden patios.
• Brick: Clay, concrete or stone blends to enhance the character
of decks and patios.
• Poured concrete: The most user- and budget-friendly of all
patio material bases.
• Natural wood: The classic and cozy base of attached or
freestanding decks that are so popular today.
• Wood composite: Achieving the same timeless look as wood,
but with a longer lifespan and often a smaller price tag.
Functions and materials

Historically, the softwoods used for decking were

logged from old growth forests. These include Atlantic
white cedar, redwood and western red cedar
(redcedar). Atlantic City built the first coastal
boardwalk in the United States, originally constructed
of the Atlantic white cedar. Soon, the commercial
logging of this tree and clearing of cedar swamps in
New Jersey caused a decline in the availability of
decking. Atlantic City and New York City both switched
to Western red cedar. By the 1960s, western red cedar https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Deck_(building)

from the US was declining due to over-logging. More

expensive western red cedar was available from
western Canada (British Columbia) but by then,
pressure-treated pine had become available.
Wood or timber decking can be
used in a number of ways: as part
of garden landscaping, to extend
the living area of a house, and as
an alternative to stone-based
features such as patios. Decks are
made from treated lumber,
composite lumber, composite
material, and aluminum.

https://www.lowes.com/l/about/deck-designer-planner
The deck of a house is generally a wooden
platform built above the ground and connected
to the main building. It is generally enclosed by
a railing for safety. Access may be from the
house through doors and from the ground via a
stairway. Residential decks can be constructed
over steep areas or rough ground that is
otherwise unusable. Decks can also be covered
by a canopy or pergola to control sunlight.
 Lanai (architecture)

lanai or lānai is a type of roofed, open-sided

veranda, patio, or porch originating in Hawaii.
Many homes, apartment buildings, hotels and
restaurants in Hawaii are built with one or more
lānais.

In Hawaii, the term's use has grown colloquially

to encompass any sort of outdoor living area
connected to or adjacent to an interior space—
whether roofed or not—including apartment
and hotel balconies.
https://www.stlmag.com/design/outdoors/outdoor-living-defined/
Patio: A paved outdoor area adjoining a
house, generally used for dining or
recreation. The term comes from Spanish,
where its meaning is different (inner
courtyard). Common materials employed
when building a patio include concrete,
stone, bricks, but also tiles or cobbles.

Image by: taboc.wordpress.com

Patio: A paved outdoor area adjoining a
house, generally used for dining or
recreation. The term comes from Spanish,
where its meaning is different (inner
courtyard). Common materials employed
when building a patio include concrete,
stone, bricks, but also tiles or cobbles.

Image by: taboc.wordpress.com

Patio Stone Installation
Columns make nice ends to
freestanding walls, formal stair
openings, stand-alone
monuments, and other areas to
enhance your project. Basic
steps of column construction are
shown here. Feel free to expand
on the ideas and bring your own
creativity into creating a custom
project.
Corner Construction Details
Installation Tips
• Begin laying pavers at a
corner, following a string or
chalk line to keep lines
straight.
• To ensure good color
distribution, take pieces from
several pallets at once.
Remove paving stones in
stacks rather than layers.
• Pallet configuration for some
products may not exactly
meet pattern requirements.
Cutting may be required
General Wall Excavation Process

Step 1 - Planning

• Mark the bottom and top of the wall

excavation location with spray paint or
stakes
• Establish proper elevation bottom
and top of wall before excavating
• Organic Materials should not be
used in Structural Backfill Zone
• Store and protect Structural Backfill
Materials from inclement weather
during construction
Step 2 - Excavation
• Excavate and prepare Sub Base
Leveling Pad Trench 6" below first
course
• Leveling Pad trench is approximately
2.5' to 3' wide
• Normal wall Burial Depth or
Embedment
• Depth is 6" to 12" or one block
• Excavate cut line to a 2 to 1 slope or
greater
• Back of wall excavation depth into
the
bank should be 12" beyond the back
of
the Sub Base Leveling Trench
Step 3 - Sub Base Compaction
• Excavate and prepare Sub Base Leveling
Pad Trench 6" below first course
• Leveling Pad trench is approximately
2.5' to 3' wide
• Normal wall Burial Depth or Embedment
• Depth is 6" to 12" or one block
• Excavate cut line to a 2 to 1 slope or
greater
• Back of wall excavation depth into the
bank should be 12" beyond the back of
the Sub Base Leveling Trench
Step 4 - Base Stabilization
• (Optional) place 5' to 6' wide
Base Stabilization Fabric on top of
leveling pad trench
• Base Stabilization Fabrics will
help prevent sub base materials
from mixing with the gravel base
leveling pad during compaction
• Fabric also provides extra
Structural Bearing Stability to the
base leveling pad
Step 5 - Rough Leveling Pad
• Place Well Graded Gravel (also
known
as Road Base Aggregates) on top
of
fabric in the leveling pad trench
approximately 6" deep
• Rough grade gravel with a rake
close
to finish base elevation
Step 6 - Compact Leveling Pad
• Compact the Gravel Leveling Pad
to 95% Standard Proctor Density or
greater
• Correct Moisture Content in the gravel
will help in reaching proper compaction
Step 7 - Level Screed Pipes
• Place first 3' long Screed Pipe across the
trench at one end of the wall or at the
lowest elevation
• Scratch a trench for the pipe in the
compacted gravel with a chipping hammer
• Use a 2’ level or Laser Level to set the
Screed Pipe to the proper level
• Gravel is added underneath and around
the Screed Pipe to support while leveling
• Place the second Screed Pipe across the
trench approximately 9' from the first Screed
Pipe
• Level the second Screed Pipe to the same
elevation as the first Screed Pipe by using a
4' level on top of a Screed
Board, Straight Edge or with a Laser Level
• Continue to place and level Screed Pipes
the full length of the trench leveling pad or
until reaching a base elevation change
Step 8 - Extra Gravel
• Place or remove extra Well Graded
Gravel (also known as Road Base
Aggregates) level to the top of the
Screed Pipes as needed
• (If more than 1 ½ inches of loose
gravel is added, repeat the compaction
steps again before screeding)
Step 9 - Screeding Leveling Pad
• Screed the gravel leveling pad with
a Screed Board or Straight Edge
across the trench on top of two
Screed Pipes
• The coarser the gravel the more
back and forth the screeding action
when drawing the Screed across the
leveling pad
• Too much pressure on the screed
straight edge may dislodge the level
of the Screed Pipes while screeding
• A second screed pass may be
needed to insure an accurate level
has been achieved
• Continue to screed the leveling pad
until completing the full length of
the trench or up to the first elevation
change
Base Elevation Changes
Pergola: A garden structure built up over a path
or narrow terrace, lined with evenly spaced
columns or posts that support a wooden-
framed roof without sheathing. Often, vines are
trained around the wooden framework of a
pergola, and the pergola may lead from one
building to another.

ILLUSTRATION BY CHRIS PHILPOT

STEP 1 – LAYOUT
a. Desired outside to outside
dimensions of your posts
b. Desired height to the
top of your beam
c. Desired direction of shade
purlins and rafters
d. If you desire to trim the
width of your pergola simply
determine your ideal size and
build accordingly. You can very
easily mount posts and trim the
appropriate beams and purlins as
you follow the installation steps.
 Step 2 – Install Post Mounts
a) Mount to Deck (Figure 2a) a. Add
blocking below deck flooring under each
post mount. Minimum blocking thickness
of 3" (this is two 2x10’s thick) b. Inset
mount as necessary to ensure the base of
post does not overhang edge of decking.
i. For standard kits (no post skirt), inset a
minimum 1" from deck edge to edge of
post mounting plate. ii. For kits with post
skirt (10 ½" square) – inset a minimum 3"
from deck edge to edge of post mounting
plate. c. Detail on nailing blocking –
Minimum 4 nails on each side of 2by
block d. Mount Fasteners – Carriage Bolts
or ledger attachment screws (5" or
greater) e. Use composite shims as
necessary to plumb mount. Tighten
fasteners
b) Mount to Concrete Slab or Landscape Column Top (Figure 2b)
a. NOTE: For a poured concrete slab or patio, make sure
concrete is in good repair For a landscape column we
recommend a one-piece cap of concrete or natural stone (4000
psi or greater), minimum thickness 2.25". It is important that
the post is constructed on a sound foundation. For a compacted
gravel base, this means a minimum two courses below grade.
For a concrete base, be sure to attach footing to base course
with the recommended amount of landscape adhesive. For
construction of post, we recommend either masonry or a high-
quality concrete product installed with a quality brand of
landscape adhesive. In the case of adhesive, follow
manufacturer’s instructions. For added strength you can also fill
the pillar(s) with concrete or mortar to add weight and rigidity.
b. Inset mount as necessary to ensure the base of post does not
overhang edge of concrete. i. For standard kits (no post skirt),
inset a minimum 2" from edge of mounting surface to edge of
post mounting plate. ii. For kits with post skirt (10 ½" square)–
inset a minimum 3" from edge of mounting surface to edge of
post mounting plate. c. Mount Fasteners - 3 /8" hot dipped
galvanized wedge or screw type anchors, minimum 2"
embedment. d. Use composite shims as necessary to plumb
mount. Tighten anchors.
Step 6 – Install Rafters
Step 7 – Install Purlin Holders
Gazebo: A free-standing structure with a roof
and open sides. Gazebos can be square,
rectangular or round, but the most popular
shape is a six- or eight-sided formation. They
can consist simply of a roof supported by posts,
or can incorporate a low wall, two or three feet
high

ILLUSTRATION BY CHRIS PHILPOT

Terrace: Derived from the Latin word for earth. As
such, the term was used for a structure that was built
on the earth, usually from rock, tiles or wood. In
modern times, the term is also used for open or
communal areas found on rooftops. In many places,
the term patio is also used interchangeably with
terrace.

ILLUSTRATION BY CHRIS PHILPOT

Deck and Patio Tips and Tricks
This final insider information will help you hack your way to a better-
hardscaped deck or patio,
one board or brick at a time:
1. Style your base materials. Consider the layout and patterns you can make
with your chosen materials, such as basket weaving deck boards or adding
decorative accent tiles to steps, caps and posts. Or you can opt for pavers
and learn how to choose the right paver for your project by browsing the
dozens of options within masonry catalogs.
2. Consider weather and climate. How will the climate conditions of your
area affect your desired building material? What kind of treatments will be
necessary to preserve the chosen wood, stone or tiling?
3. Be safe. Most residential decks come designed with a load-bearing
weight of 60 pounds
per foot. Going overboard with deck or patio furniture, outdoor kitchens,
hot tubs or even
too many guests will spell serious structural and safety concerns.
4. Allow for drainage. Space boards according to the manufacturer's
instructions to allow for
proper water runoff between.
5. Add finishing touches. Whether it’s decorative trim, post caps, skirting,
outdoor lighting,
plantings or tree and brush foliage — whatever you can think of — crown
your deck or patio
with the adornments all your hard work deserves.
Courtyards are a beautiful and refined addition to any residency, be
it part of a grand front
entryway, a backyard terrace or a stylish garden getaway. They add
charm and refinement to
your home and are easy additions to pair with other hardscape
features, such as outdoor dining,
retaining walls, planter pots and urns or garden benches — to name
a few.

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wall/14106/
 follow
organic
Topics
introduction

about
 introduction
Topics
follow

about
THE SPEAKER
KEITH HERNANDEZ
A NATURAL FARMING PRACTICTIONER,
SPEAKER, AND AGRICULTURE TRAINER FOR
NGOS’AND LGU’S
 Day 1 Introduction To Landscaping
a. Landscaping Elements
b. Landscaping Design Principles
c. Choosing The Right Color Palette (Softscape And Hardscape)
d. Common Plants And Materials
e. Location And Area ( Urban And Rural)
Day 2 Preparation
a. Tools , Material And Equipment
b. Site Clearing And Grubbing Activities
c. Rough Grading And Site Preparation Activities,

introduction
d. Plants Installation At Designated Locations As Designed,
follow

about
Topics

e. Plant Support,
Day 3 Hardscaping
a. Brick And Stones
b. Pots And Concreate
c. Decks And Others
Day 4 Softscaping
a. Trimming And Pruning Landscape Plants,
b. Weeding And Cultivation,
c. Apply Fertilizer(Nutrition), Water Plants, Control And Prevent
Plant Pest And Diseases, Provide Plant Support,
d. Lawn-Grass Maintenance,
 introduction
Topics
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about
www.facebook.com/projectnaturalfarming
Gmail : [email protected]
Smart : 09983343277
1
1
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PROJECT NATURAL FARMING
PROJECT NATURAL FARMING
Plant Structures: Roots

The roots are the beginning of the vascular system pipeline

that moves water and minerals from the soil up to the
leaves and fruits. Roots make up around one-fourth to
one-third of the total dry weight of a plant. The total
length of root tissues in a single rye plant is around 380
miles!
The structure and growth habits of roots have a
pronounced effect on
• Size and vigor of the plants
• Adaptation to certain soils
• Response to cultural practices
Types of Roots
Fibrous – Profusely branched roots that occupy a large
volume of shallow soil around a plant's base (petunias,
beans, peas).
Taproot – Main, downward- growing root with limited
branching, where soils permit (carrots, beets, radishes).
Adventitious roots arise at an unexpected place. For
example, the brace roots on corn and the short whitish
bumps along a tomato stem are adventitious roots.
Aerial roots arise from above-ground stem tissues. On
English ivy and poison ivy, the aerial roots support the
vine.
Lateral root – Side root
Sinker roots make a sharp dive into deeper soils,
following soil cracks where oxygen is available. Sinker
roots are common on some tree species.
Storage or Tuberous root – Enlarged roots that serve as
storage organs
Depth and Spread
The depth and spread of roots are dependent on the
inherent growth characteristics of the plant and the
soil’s texture and structure. Roots require adequate
levels of soil oxygen, so growth habit will be a factor of
the soil’s large pore space where oxygen is available.
• In compacted and clayey soils, roots will be shallow,
remaining near the surface where oxygen is available.

• In droughty soils, the root system will spread farther,

mining a larger soil area for moisture and minerals.

It is difficult to predict root spread of any plant. Under

favorable growing conditions, the typical root spread
of a tree includes:
• 90-95% in top 36 inches
• 50% in top 12 inches
• Spreads 2-3 times tree’s height or canopy (drip-line)
spread
In compacted clayey soils, the typical root spread of trees includes:
• 90-95% in top 12 inches or less
• 50% in top 4 inches
• Potentially spreads five plus times the tree’s height or canopy (drip-line)
spread
Some plants are genetically programmed to have very deep, spreading
root systems (i.e., they are more tolerant of low soil oxygen levels). This
growth habit is an environmental adaptation. Examples include bindweed
and prairie grasses.
Soil type is a key factor in water penetration and root uptake. Where soil
allows, the primary water extraction depth extends to:
• Flowers 18-24”
• Turf 24”
• Vegetables 24”
• Shade trees 24-60”
Modified Stems
Bulb – Thickened, underground stem with fleshy storage leaves
attached at base (tulips, lilies, onions).

Corm – Short, thickened, underground stem with reduced scaly

leaves (gladiolus).

Crown – Compressed stem having leaves and flowers growing above

and roots beneath (strawberry plant, dandelion, African violet).

Stolon (or runner) – Horizontal, above-ground stems often forming

roots and/or plantlets at their tips or nodes (strawberry runners,
spider plants).

Rhizome – Horizontal, underground stem, typically forms roots and

plantlets at tips or nodes (iris, bentgrass, cannas).
Leaves are the principle structure, produced on stems,
where photosynthesis takes place. Cacti are an
exception. The leaves are reduced to spines, and the
thick green, fleshy stems are where photosynthesis
takes place.

Leaf Arrangement on Stems

Alternate – Arranged in staggered fashion along stem
(willow)
Opposite – Pair of leaves arranged across from each
other on stem (maple)
Whorled – Arranged in a ring (catalpa)
Rosette – Spiral cluster of leaves arranged at the base
(or crown) (dandelion)
Leaf Type

Simple – Leaf blade is one continuous unit (cherry,

maple, and elm).
Compound – Several leaflets arise from the same
petiole.
Palmately compound – Leaflets radiate from one
central point (Ohio buckeye and horse chestnut).
Pinnately compound – Leaflets arranged on both sides
of a common rachis (leaf stalk), like a feather
(mountain ash)
Bi-pinnately (doubly) compound – Double set of
compound leaflets.
Overall Leaf Shape
Leaf shape is a primary tool in plant
identification. Descriptions often go into minute
detail about general leaf shape, and the shape
of the leaf apex and base. Figure 5 illustrates
common shapes as used in the Manual of
Woody Landscape Plants.
Cordate- heart-shaped
Cuneate – leaves with small width at base, widening near the top (think wedge)
Elliptical – leaves widest in the middle, tapering on both ends
Hastate – arrowhead shaped leaves
Lanceolate – leaf is 3x or more longer than width and broadest below the middle
Linear- leaves narrow, 4x longer than width and have the same width
Obcordate – reverse appearance of cordate leaves. (Heart shape is upside down)
Oblanceolate – leaf is 3x longer than wide and broadest above the middle
Oblong – leaf is 2-3x as long as it is wide and has parallel sides
Obovate – leaf is broadest above the middle and about 2x as long as the width
Ovate- leaf is broadest below the middle and about 2x as long as the width (egg
shaped)
Peltate – leaves rounded with petiole attached under the leaf base
Reniform – leaves wider than they are high
Spatulate – generally narrow leaves widening to a rounded shape at the tip
Flowers are the reproductive
structures of a flowering plant.
Flowers are the primary structures
used in grouping plant families.
Landscape plants vary in their adaptation to light intensity. Many gardening texts divide
plants into sun, partial sun and shade. However the experienced gardener understands the
differences between these seven degrees of sun/shade:
Full sun – Direct sun for at least 8 hours a day, including from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m.
Full sun with reflected heat – Where plants receive reflected heat from a building or other structure,
temperatures can be extremely hot. This situation significantly limits the choice of plants for the site.
Morning shade with afternoon sun – This southwest and west reflected heat can be extremely hot and
limiting to plant growth.
Morning sun with afternoon shade – This is an ideal site for many plants. The afternoon shade protects
plants from extreme heat.
Filtered shade – Dappled shade filtered through trees can be bright shade to dark shade depending on the
tree’s canopy. The constantly moving shade pattern protects under-story plants from heat. In darker
dappled shade, only the more shade-tolerant plants will thrive.
Open shade – Plants may be in the situation where they have open sky above, but direct sunlight is
blocked during the day by buildings, fences and other structures. Only more shade-tolerant plants will
thrive here.
Closed shade – The situation where plants are under a canopy blocking sunlight is most limiting. Only the
most shade-tolerant plants will survive this situation, like under a deck or covered patio.
Photoperiod and
Flowering - Left side:
Short day plants flower
with uninterrupted
long nights. Right side:
Long-day plants flower
with short nights or
interrupted long
nights.
Plant Growth Factors: Water
Pruning should be based
on pruning objectives
(why to prune). Do not
indiscriminately remove
branches. Pruning
objectives determine
methods (how to prune)
to be used, which in turn
determine the type of
pruning cuts made
Removal cuts reduce the canopy density but
have little influence on height. Thinning with
removal cuts allows better light penetration
into the canopy, which encourages desired
growth of interior branches. This improves
trunk taper and increases the general vigor of
primary branches and the trunk. Removal cuts
reduce the weight on large branches, giving the
tree resilience to snow loading. The primary use
of removal cuts is in structural pruning of small,
middle-aged and older trees and on shrubs.
Two features on the branch, the branch collar and the branch bark ridge, help
identify the proper cut angle. The branch collar is the area where the annual
growth rings of the trunk fold in between the annual growth rings of the side
branch, in a manner similar to shuffling a deck of cards. On some species, the
branch collar is readily noticeable, while on other species the branch collar is
less obvious.
With a removal cut, the final cut should be just beyond
the branch collar. Because the woundwood that grows
over the pruning cut originates in the branch defense
zone, it is imperative that the branch collar not be cut
or otherwise injured in pruning. To eliminate error, cut
a little beyond the collar region (i.e., 1/8 inch for
small-diameter twigs and 1/4 inch for larger branches).
In species where the branch collar is not clearly
identifiable, look for the branch bark ridge. Make the
final cut at the angle that mirrors (lies opposite) the
angle of the branch bark ridge.
Reduction Cuts
Reduction cuts remove a larger branch or trunk
back to a smaller-diameter side branch.
Reduction cuts are commonly used in training
young trees. They are also the only type of cut
that will significantly lower a tree’s height.
However, reduction cuts do not have a branch
defense zone, leaving the branch with a weak
defense against decay. This is not a major
concern on young, actively growing branches.
However, reduction cuts are discouraged on
mature trees and on limbs larger than two inches
in diameter. On trees under stress or in decline,
avoid reduction cuts as they can accelerate the
decline.
Heading Cuts
Heading cuts remove the growing tips of
branches. This releases the side buds to
grow, resulting in more dense growth at the
point of pruning.

Another type of undesirable heading cut is

the removal of a large trunk/branch back to
a smaller side branch when the side branch
is less than one-third the size of the larger
trunk being removed. Structurally unsound
water sprouts often emerge along the
branch, and the tree may become more
unsound than before the pruning.
Three-Cut Method for Larger Branches
When removing any branch larger than one inch in
diameter, use a three-cut method to protect the bark
from tearing.

Cut 1. Coming out 12 to 15 inches from the branch

union (crotch), make an undercut approximately one-
third to halfway through the branch.
Cut 2. Moving a couple of inches out past the first cut,
make the second cut from above, removing the
branch. This double-cut method prevents the weight
of the branch from tearing the bark below the collar.
Cut 3. Make the third and final cut at the correct
pruning point. For example, on a removal cut, just
outside the branch collar. For woundwood growth,
take extra caution not to cut into or otherwise injure
the branch collar.
Thinning

Thinning is the selective removal of

smaller branches (½ inch to 2.5 inches
in diameter) to reduce crown density.
Because the majority of small branches
are in the outer canopy, thinning
focuses in this area. Thinning should
retain crown shape and size, and
provide an even distribution of foliage
throughout the crown. Removal cuts
are primarily used.

Avoid lion-tailing which is the removal of the live small leafy twigs down in the tree’s
interior. Never clean out these lower branches and twigs on maturing trees. These small
interior branches are critical to the trunk’s structural integrity and vigor. They also serve
to dampen tree sway in wind. Lion-tailing shifts the wind loading to the outer canopy
increasing the tree’s potential for wind damage.
Raising
Raising is the removal of lower branches to
provide clearance for people, traffic, buildings, or
a view. When removing lower branches, maintain
at least one-half of the foliage in the lower two-
thirds of the tree. The lowest branch should
originate in the bottom one-third of the tree’s
height (live crown ratio).
Raising should be part of the tree’s structural
training while young. Ideally raising would be
done before branches to be removed exceed a
two-inch diameter. The potential for decay is high
when the branch removed is larger than four
inches or when a two-inch and larger branch is
greater than half the diameter of the adjacent
trunk (no branch collar to suppress decay).
In shortening a main upward growing
branch, pruning back to a narrow branch
union may be stronger than a wide
branch union.
Pruning Flowering Shrubs

Shaping is another reason for pruning shrubs. Shape

can be managed to some degree by pruning to side
buds or branches growing in the desired direction.
While pruning can provide some control over size, it is
not an effective method to keep a large shrub in a
small space. Where shrubs have overgrown their
space, consider replacing the plants with smaller
cultivars or other species.
Shape can be managed to some extent by pruning to
buds and branches growing in the desired direction of
growth.
Pruning to inward growing buds or branches results in
narrower shrubs. Pruning to outward-growing buds or
branches results in wider shrubs.
 With branch-by-branch
shaping, long branches are cut
back into the shrub, giving a
more natural shape. Avoid
making cuts at a uniform
“edge,” creating a rounded
ball

Flowering shrubs pruned by topping or

shearing become woody at the base
Over time, sheared shrubs become woody
with dead sections. The only treatment at
this point is to replace the shrub.
Line drawing: USDA
In shearing hedges,
maintain the natural shape
of the plant. A common
mistake is to shape shrubs
with a wide top and narrow
base. Lack of sunlight
shades out lower interior
growth, resulting in a
woody base.
Weed Management

• A plant out of place

• A plant not sown whose undesirable features
outweigh its desirable characteristics
• A plant or part of a plant interfering with the
objectives of human beings
• Any plant whose virtues have not yet been
discovered
• Any undesirable plant
• Oxford English Dictionary: a herbaceous plant not
valued for use of beauty, growing wild and regarded
as cumbering the ground or hindering the growth of
superior vegetation
Weed Management

Weed management in landscaped areas is made difficult by the

complexity of many plantings. Landscapes can include turfgrass,
bedding plants, herbaceous perennials, shrubs, and trees. Usually
more than one species is planted in the landscaped area, and there is
often a mix of annual and perennial ornamentals. The great variety of
ornamental species, soil types, irrigation systems, slopes, and use of
mulches creates the need for a variety of weed management options.
There is also public concern about the use of chemicals to control
weeds and their effect on water quality, public health, and non-target
species if the herbicide moves offsite through runoff, drift, or other
means of exposure.
WEED MANAGEMENT BEFORE PLANTING
An integrated approach using several methods is the
most economical and effective means of controlling
weeds. Develop a weed management plan for
landscapes before planting by following these five
basic steps:

Site assessment.
Before soil preparation and when weeds are visible,
evaluate the soil and slope of the site so problems can
be corrected or future problems anticipated before
planting. Site characteristics to look for include
drainage, soil compaction, shading, and water
infiltration rate.
* According to growth habit: *Body Texture
- vines - herbaceous
- shrubs - woody
- trees
* Life Span * Habitat
- annual - terrestial
- biennial - epiphytic
- perennial - aquatic

* Gross Morphology
- grasses - sedges
- broadleaf
LIFE SPAN
ANNUALS – complete their life cycles in one growing
seasons (ex. Echinochloa crus-galli)
BIENNIALS – complete their life cycle in two
growing seasons (ex. Wild carrot,
Daucus carota L.)
PERENNIALS – Live for 3 or more years
(ex. Bermuda grass, Cynodon dactylon)
Site preparation.
The most frequently overlooked aspect of a landscape
maintenance program is site preparation. Control existing
weeds, especially perennials, before any grading and
development are started. Non-selective translocated
herbicides (ones that move from the site of application to
other parts of the plant) containing the active ingredient
glyphosate (e.g., Roundup or glufosinate (e.g., Leopard or
Finale) can be used to kill existing annual grasses and many
types of perennial weeds. Non-selective contact herbicides,
including synthetic active ingredients (e.g., diquat-dibromide)
or organic ingredients (e.g., acetic acid and clove oil) are
effective for controlling young annual plants as long as there
is good spray coverage.

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Soil solarization can be used but the soil must be
covered with clear plastic for 4 to 6 weeks. Solarization
is most effective when done during the time of highest
solar radiation

The number of annual weeds can be reduced by

irrigating the area after final grading, allowing the
weeds to emerge. While the weeds are still small,
remove them through shallow cultivation (less than 1
inch deep), scrape them off the soil, or spray with a
postemergence non-selective herbicide, and then
repeating this process of irrigation, emergence, and
removal two or three times more. This will greatly
reduce annual weed competition and population size.
Define the type of planting.
Appropriate choice of plant types and landscape
design can make it easier to manage weeds. For
example, installing mowing strips, planter beds, and
borders help to reduce weed encroachment and
delineate planting types. Woody plants, especially
those that are established, are more tolerant to most
preemergence herbicides and close cultivation.
Consequently, there are more weed control options if
the planting consists entirely of woody plants, as
opposed to herbaceous annuals or perennial plants, or
a mixture of all three.
Don’t bring in new weeds.
Weeds are sometimes introduced in the soil brought
to the landscape site, either when amending the soil
or in the potting mix of transplants. Specify certified
amendments and check new plants for weeds,
especially perennials like purple and yellow nutsedge
or field bindweed. Annual weeds can be removed by
hand before planting but perennial weeds in a pot or
tree box will create a long term weed management
problem. Weed seeds can also be brought in on
equipment. Washing or blowing off mowers, trimmers,
and dirty shovels and hoes will help reduce the
introduction of new weeds.
Encourage rapid establishment of desired plants.
Use the best management practices to get the plants
established as quickly as possible so that they become
competitive with weeds and more tolerant of
herbicides applied to the site. Frequent weeding and
keeping weeds from producing seeds in the landscape
will greatly reduce overall weed populations. Using
mulch will reduce the growth of annual weeds.
Use preemergence herbicides only if needed.
Soon after planting, once the soil has settled and if
mulch is not used, preemergence herbicides can be
applied. These herbicides have specific label uses
regarding types of plants on which they can safely be
applied and how they should be used. The sites listed
on the label determine where the herbicide can legally
be used. Herbicides may damage new plantings if not
used correctly. Any weed seedlings that have emerged
between transplanting and the preemergence
herbicide application must be removed by hand or
https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/plant-
gentle hoeing as these will usually not be controlled by problems/weeds/using-herbicide-in-gardens.htm
preemergence herbicides.
Herbicides for Landscape Plantings
Herbicides have been effectively used in many types of
landscape plantings and are most often integrated
with the cultural practices discussed above. Generally,
home gardeners should not need to apply herbicides
to existing landscapes. Hand-weeding and mulching
should provide sufficient control and avoid the hazards
to desirable plants associated with herbicide use.

Many of the herbicide active ingredients and trade

names listed here are for use by professional
landscape pest managers and are not available to
home gardeners. There are some home-use products
that contain the same active ingredients, but the trade
name is different. To determine which herbicide active
ingredient(s) are in a product, read the information on
the label.
PREPARATION, PLANTING AND MULCHING GUIDE

• Spray paint all bed lines

• Spray Round-up inside beds (keep in mind-Round-up will not kill
dormant weeds and grasses) (optional )
• Wait at least 48 hours, preferably 2 weeks
• Cut bed edge with shovel 2”-3” deep
• Till bed one time
• Add soil conditioner/fill soil/top soil as needed
As you plant:
• Set out plants as per plan, stepping back to make small visual
adjustments
• Lightly scar outside roots of container plants
• Install plants with ¼ of root ball higher than existing grade; taper soil
up to top edge of root ball (no soil on top)
• Compress soil around plants with feet
• Stake trees, if needed, with water hose or flexible cloth at tie-in point
• Remove stakes after first summer
After you plant:

• Mulch with 3” dressing of compost, shaken and

separated
• Tuck edges of bed with a flat-edged shovel OR
• Mulch with 2” dressing of bark mulch or mini chips
(not recommended for sloped areas)

HOW MUCH TO USE? 1 sack per 40 sq ft

1-3 cu ft bag mulch per 18 sq ft
1 cubic yard mulch per 140 sq ft
MOWING HT: Mowing turf below the recommended height can
stress the grass and subject it to invasion by weeds.
LEAF: Fine, Medium, Coarse, Fine-Medium, Coarse-Medium
(Relative measure of leaf blade width. Texture is merely a visual
preference.)
MAINT. LEVEL: Low, Medium, High, Medium-High (Amount of
fertilization, irrigation, and mowing required.)
SOIL pH: Any, Acid (Ideal soil pH and texture for healthy turf.)
DROUGHT TOLERANCE: Low, Medium, High (Measure of how well
the turf will survive extended dry periods without irrigation
or rainfall after it has been properly established.)
SALT: Low, Medium, High, None (Ability to thrive when subjected
to salt stress from irrigation water, saltwater intrusion, or
salt spray from the ocean.)
SHADE: Low, Medium, High (Ability to thrive when exposed to
shade.)
ESTABLISHMENT METHODS: Sod, Sprigs, Plugs, Seed (A quality
lawn can be established by any method listed if the site is
properly prepared and maintained.)
 Ground preparation
Step 1: Digging Using a fork or a rotovator, dig the soil well,
removing all large stones, roots and other debris. If possible,
leave the soil to settle for a few days – you can also remove
any weeds that appear during this time.
Step 2: Leveling and improving Level the soil by raking it
(shallow dips and rises are fine but steep ones will make the
lawn difficult to mow). Remove any additional stones that
come to the surface; and if you are adding topsoil, do this
after raking.
Step 3: Treading It’s now time to walk slowly up and down
the area, letting your heels press down on the soil. This firms
the surface but without compacting it. If you can get a friend
to help it will save a lot of time! However, if it’s very wet you’ll
just create mud, so wait for it to dry off a little first.
Step 4: Final raking Go over the area once more with a rake,
working from different directions to create a smooth flat
surface. If you’re adding a pre-turf fertilizer, do this now and
then rake it gently in to a depth of a few milimetres
• After Care: It includes rolling, mowing, watering and restoration of patchy places,
which should be done regularly.

• Fertilizing the lawn thrice a year is adequate to maintain rich greenness. Application
of urea or ammonium sulphate at the rate of 1 kg / 50 sq. m during February -
March, June - July and October - November is quite beneficial. At times well
decomposed compost at 10 kg / 10 sq. m area will be sufficient as top dressing.
• Weeds should be removed as soon as they appear, otherwise they spread, seed
multiply and overpower the grass. Fill the gaps with grass roots and fine soil. In the
absence of rain, watering is done regularly at weekly intervals.
• A mower should not be employed until a firm green sword has been formed. The
grass is first cut with sickle and the surface is then rolled. Heavy roller should be used
frequently but not when the ground is either too wet or dry.
• Mowing should be done at brief intervals and never allow to produce seed stalks.
Avoid cutting the grass too short as this can damage the grass, inhibit a deeper root
system from setting up and give rise to weeds. Different grasses have different
heights at which they can grow best, so make sure you enquire about this from the
vendor or your landscaping company. The ideal height of most grasses is 3 to 4
inches. Removing more than one-third of the grass leaf in a single cutting is not
recommended. Mow only on dry grass and not when the grass is wet. Make sure
you mower's blade is a new and sharp before starting a fresh moving session. To
ensure smoothness make sure you change the mower's oil once or twice during
mowing season.
• Once in a year rake the lawn before rain and top dress with rich mixture of
decomposed manure and soil. This will accelerate the grass with new vigorous
growth.
• The best time to water the lawn would be during the early hours of morning.
Watering during this time will allow the water to reach the roots without
evaporating. Mid afternoons may lead to water getting evaporated soon and
watering at night times can give rise to the possibilities of diseases. While watering,
care should be taken to spread the water homogeneously across the lawn without
over flooding or missing certain areas/spots. If the lawn is placed on heavy slopes
make sure that the water does not run-off. Several applications of water would be
necessary for such surfaces to ensure adequate penetration.
PROS AND CONS

TURF
-Minimal maintenance
-Initially Expensive
-Captures water
-Engineered with plastics
-Will need to be replaced every 10-15 years
-Turf takes thousands of years to decompose

GRASS
-Requires Maintenance
-Water intensive
-Fertilizer use
-Aesthetic appeal
-Conducts photosynthesis
-Job security
-Invasive species
https://www.wikihow.com/Lay-a-New-Lawn
 “HINDI DAHIL
MADALING TINGNAN ,
MADALING GAWIN.
The right tools,
Knowledge and
Practice with
experience is the key”
-Keith Hernandez

Pict not mine credits to the owner 

MARAMING SALAMAT PO!

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