Wheel Alignment Diagnosis and Service

Author: Marius Gedvila

1. Wheel Alignment Diagnosis

1.1. Driving Symptoms
1.1.1. Causes of Pull:
• Camber out of specification: Vehicle will pull to side with most positive
camber
• Tires: Usually rotating the tires front to rear will eliminate the pull
1.1.2.Causes of Lead or Drift:
• Caster out of specification: The vehicle will drift to the side with the least
amount of positive camber.
• Camber out of specification: Vehicle will lead or drift more to the side
with the most positive camber
• Tires: Usually rotating the tires front to rear will eliminate the lead or drift
1.1.3. Causes of Wander:
• Excessive negative toe
1.1.4. Causes of Shimmy:
• Excessive positive toe
1.2. Tire Wear Symptoms
1.2.1. Camber:
Negative camber will cause excessive tire wear on the inside edge of the tire.
Positive camber will cause excessive tire wear on the outside edge of the tire.
1.2.2. Toe:
A feathered edge will be created on the edges of bias ply tires if the toe is out of
specification. Radial tires will show wear on the outside edge if toe is out of
specification.
1.2.3. Tire inflation:
Tires that are driven on when the inflation pressure is below specifications will
display excessive wear on the outside edges. Tires that are driven on when the
inflation pressure is above specifications will display excessive wear on the
center of the tread. Usually, tires would have to be driven on for awhile before
inflation related wear is evident.
1.2.4. Patch wear:
Patch wear occurs when the wheel is not balanced correctly (Osceola Garage).
1.2.5. Cup wear:
Bent or worn suspension components will cause cupped wear (Osceola Garage).
 Figure 1 (Osceola Garage)

2. Pre-alignment Checklist
If the vehicle’s alignment is determined as being out-of-specification, a pre-
alignment checklist needs to be completed before any adjustment is made. If a
vehicle alignment is attempted before these items are inspected, the alignment
will never be within specifications.
2.1. Tires and Wheels
2.1.1. Wear Patterns:
Check if the tire wear patterns are due to normal wear or caused by incorrect
alignment.
2.1.2. Correct Size and Type:
Check that the correct tire size and type is installed on the vehicle. The tire
placard on the inside of the driver’s door jamb will display the required tire size.

Figure 2 (Blain’s Farm and Fleet)

 2.1.3. Inflation Pressure:
Make sure all the tires are inflated to the correct cold-tire specification as
indicated on the inside driver’s door jamb placard.

Figure 3 (Modern Tire Dealer)

2.1.4. Wheel/rim Damage
Inspect the vehicle’s tires and wheels for any bent or damaged components.
2.2. Wheel Bearings
2.2.1. Check for excessive wheel bearing play:
With the tire off the ground and unloaded, grab the tire at the 12 o’clock and 6
o’clock position. Move the tire forward and back at these positions to check for
looseness in the wheel bearing. Repeat the same test by grabbing the tire at the 3
o’clock and 9 o’clock positions. The wheel bearing should have no play.
2.3. Steering Linkage
2.3.1. Tie Rods:
Check the part where the tie rod end connects to the steering knuckle. That
balljoint should have zero movement up and down. The tie rod end boot must
also not be torn. Figure 4 shows the component that must be checked. The tie rod
will pivot because of the balljoint inside, which is normal. Usually, a good
amount of force must be used to discover a loose tie rod end.

Figure 4 (Car Treatments)

2.3.2. Center Link:
Check the center link bushings for play. The center link bushing’s boot must not
be torn.
2.3.3.Idler Arm and Pitman Arm:
Check the idler and pitman arms for play. The boots for the arms must not be
torn. The pitman arm boot in figure 5 is torn, indicated by the leak, and requires
replacement. Figure 6 shows the idler arm.

Figure 5 (PantherBB)

Figure 6 (PantherBB)
2.4. Suspension Components
2.4.1. Check struts/shocks for leakage or damage:
Visually inspect the struts/shocks for external fluid leakage. Also check the
strut/shock mounting bushings for wear. Figure 7 shows a leaking strut. A little
bit of oil should be present on the strut shaft underneath the rubber boot, but
excessive leakage indicates torn seals in the strut. The strut should be replaced if
this occurs.

Figure 7
2.4.2. Check springs:
Check the suspension springs for broken coils. Figure 8 shows a broken coil
spring. The spring should be replaced if this occurs.

Figure 8

2.4.3. Measure vehicle for proper ride height:

Measure vehicle height and compare to specifications. Follow manufacturers
procedure for determining the correct way to measure ride height.
Ride height measurements on modern vehicles are usually complicated and some
even require special tools. The prerequisites for a ride height measurement are
usually the same across many vehicles. The vehicle must be on the ground with
its weight on the tires. The tires must be inflated to the correct cold tire
specification, and the fuel tank must be full. The vehicle must also not have any
heavy cargo in the cabin or bed.
Here’s an example of a front ride height measurement on a 2017 Ford Escape
(Ford):
1. The required tool is a surface gauge (Figure 9).

Figure 9

2. Place the surface gauge on the ground. Measure in the center of the purple
bolts in figure 10. Subtract measurements 3-2, the height of the balljoint
bolt, minus the height of the control arm bolt to the ground.

Figure 10 (Ford)
 3. The measurement acquired in step 2 is the front ride height. The
specification is 10.2mm for AWD and 15.3mm for FWD. If the ride
height is out of specification, this could indicate suspension components
that are worn.
This is the rear ride height measurement procedure for the same 2017 Ford
Escape (Ford).
1. Use the same surface gauge as for the front ride height measurement.
2. Place the surface gauge on the ground. Measure in the center of the rear
lower control arm cam adjuster bolt in figure 11. Repeat the measurement
in the center of the rear lower arm outboard bolt.

Figure 11 (Ford)
3. Subtract measurements 2-3 to obtain the rear ride height. The
specification is 75.2mm for AWD and 77.3mm for FWD. Once again, an
out of specification rear ride height measurement could indicate worn
suspension components.
2.5. Subframe
2.5.1. Check front and rear axle carriers:
Inspect the axle carriers for damaged and bent components.
2.5.2. Check for bent/twisted subframes
Inspect the subframes for damage. Usually a visual inspection is required to
check for subframe damage. Compare control arm, spring, strut, sway bar mounts
between the two sides of the vehicle.
2.5.3. Check crossmembers for evidence of shifting:
Make sure the crossmembers are aligned with each other.
2.5.4. Check mounting bolts for “clean spots” indicating movement:
2.6. Brakes
2.6.1. Road test vehicle for brake system for pulling and vibrations. A pull that occurs
only while braking is not an alignment issue. It’s usually caused by a stuck brake
caliper or restricted brake hose.
 2.7. Drivetrain
2.7.1. When road testing look for vibrations and/or noises that could be drivetrain
related.

3. Wheel Alignment Service

Once the pre-alignment checklist has been completed, the vehicle can then
be aligned.
3.1. Setting up the alignment machine
This procedure is for a Hunter Engineering alignment machine.
3.1.1. Pulling the vehicle onto the alignment machine:
Make sure the vehicle is centered on the alignment machine with the front tires
placed on the turnplates (figure 12). Make sure the pins in the turnplates are in
place.

Figure 12 (Hunter Engineering)

3.1.2. Installing the alignment machine sensors:
The sensors are labeled according to which wheel they should be attached to.
There are two main types of sensors that Hunter uses. The first kind is shown in
figure 13 along with the procedure on how to mount it.
 Figure 13 (Hunter Engineering)
1. Place the hooks of the sensors on in the gap between the tire and wheel.
Be careful as to not damage the wheel. If the vehicle has hub caps, they
must be removed before the sensor can be attached.
2. Mount the sensor vertically. Once mounted and all four hooks are around
the wheel, tighten the knob on top as tight as possible. Do not use tools to
tighten the knob.
3. Repeat the process for the other three wheels.
This is the process for the second type of sensor.

Figure 14 (Hunter Engineering)

1. Mount the wheel sensor parallel to the alignment lift.
 2. Attach the two hooks to the tires and lock them by pulling the silver lever
away from the sensor.
3.1.3. Setting up the alignment machine:
The next step involves selecting the correct vehicle (figure 15).

Figure 15 (Hunter Engineering)

3.1.4. Rolling compensation:
Perform the rolling compensation.
1. The machine instructs you to release the parking brake and place the
transmission in neutral.
2. Then, roll the vehicle backwards until the tires on the screen are in the
white zone. The white zone will turn green when the tires are in the
correct position (figure 16).

Figure 16 (Hunter Engineering)

 3. Then, perform the same procedure, but roll the vehicle forwards (figure
17).

Figure 17 (Hunter Engineering)

3.1.5. Locking steering wheel and brake pedal:

1. Keep the transmission in neutral.
2. Install the steering wheel lock and brake pedal lock (figure 18). Installing
the steering wheel lock with the steering wheel centered ensures that the steering
wheel will be straight after the alignment is complete.

Figure 18 (Hunter Engineering)

3.2. Performing the alignment in the rear.

Now it is time to align the vehicle. These will be the procedures for rear
alignment, which should be completed before the front. The correct order
is caster, camber, then toe. Note: Some vehicles do not have provisions to
adjust caster or camber, check the service information for the vehicle
you are working on.
There are two main views the Hunter alignment machine can provide.
Figure 19 shows the bar graph view. Figure 20 shows the virtual view.

Figure 19 (Hunter Engineering)

Figure 20 (Hunter Engineering)

3.2.1.Rear Caster
Most front-wheel drive vehicles do not have provisions for rear caster
adjustment. Caster adjustment requires the vehicle’s wheels to be elevated. Use
the alignment lifts jacks to lift the rear.
This is the procedure for a rear-wheel drive vehicle with front and rear caster
adjustment.
1. Starting at the rear of the vehicle, loosen both nuts at the end of the eccentric
cam bolt on the upper control arm.

Figure 21 (Ford)
2. Adjust both cam bolts to set the caster within specifications. For example, to
make the caster more negative, meaning the steering axis line is pointed
inboard the vehicle, adjust the forward-most cam bolt in and adjust the
rearward-most cam bolt out. Do the opposite to make the caster more positive.
 Figure 22
3. The alignment machine will automatically tell you what the caster
specification is. Adjust both cam bolts accordingly until the caster angle is
within specification.
4. Hold both cam bolts still and tighten the lock nuts.
5. Perform the same procedure on the other side.

3.2.2.Rear Camber
Camber adjustment requires the vehicle’s wheels to be elevated. Use the
alignment lifts jacks to lift the rear.
1. Follow the same procedure for rear caster adjustment, but this time, adjust
both cam bolts the same exact distance.
2. Adjust them until the camber angle is within specification.

Figure 23 (Ford)
3. At this point, hold the cam bolt in place while tightening the cam bolt nut on
the other side. Do this for both cam bolts.
4. Hold both cam bolts still and tighten the lock nuts.
5. Perform the same procedure on the other side.

3.2.3. Rear Toe

There are two basic designs of rear toe adjustment. One is with a rear tie-rod, and the
other is with an eccentric bolt again on the rear toe-arm. The rear turnplate lock pins
must be removed before rear toe can be adjusted.
Procedure for adjustment with rear tie-rods:
1. Loosen the rear tie-rod lock nut. Do this procedure on one side at a time (Figure
24).
 Figure 24
2. Place a wrench on the hex portion of the tie-rod. (Figure 25)

Figure 25
3. Turn the tie-rod with the wrench. If the toe is too negative, turn the tie rod to
lengthen it. Figure 26 shows the direction the tie rod end should move.
 Figure 26
4. If the toe is too positive, shorten the length of the toe rod. Figure 27 shows the
direction the tie rod end needs to move.

Figure 27
5. Once the toe has been set to specifications, hold the tie rod in place and tighten
the lock nut
6. Repeat this same procedure on other side.
Procedure for adjustment with rear cam bolts:
1. Loosen the nut on the other side of the cam bolt on the toe arm. Perform this
procedure on one side at a time.
2. Turning the cam bolt will lengthen or shorten the toe arm.
 Figure 28
3. Once the toe is in specification, hold the cam bolt in place while tightening the nut
on the other side.
4. Repeat this same procedure on the other side.
3.3. Performing the alignment in the front

The same order of caster, camber, then toe applies to the front alignment.

3.3.1 Front caster

Front caster adjustment is very similar to rear caster adjustment. Caster
adjustment requires the vehicle’s wheels to be elevated. Use the alignment lifts jacks
to lift the front.
1. Loosen both nuts at the end of the eccentric cam bolt on the upper control
arm.

Figure 29 (Ford)
2. Adjust both cam bolts to set the caster within specifications. For example, to
make the caster more negative, meaning the steering axis line is pointed
inboard the vehicle, adjust the forward-most cam bolt in and adjust the
rearward-most cam bolt out. Do the opposite to make the caster more positive.
 Figure 30
3. The alignment machine will automatically tell you what the caster
specification is. Adjust both cam bolts accordingly until the caster angle is
within specification.
4. Hold both cam bolts still and tighten the lock nuts.
5. Perform the same procedure on the other side.

3.3.2 Front camber

Front camber adjustment is very similar to rear camber adjustment. Camber
adjustment requires the vehicle’s wheels to be elevated. Use the alignment lifts jacks
to lift the front.
1. Follow the same procedure for rear caster adjustment, but this time, adjust
both cam bolts the same exact distance.
2. Adjust them until the camber angle is within specification.
 Figure 31 (Ford)
3. At this point, hold the cam bolt in place while tightening the cam bolt nut on
the other side. Do this for both cam bolts.
4. Hold both cam bolts still and tighten the lock nuts.
5. Perform the same procedure on the other side.
3.3.3 Front Toe
There are two main ways to adjust the front toe depending on which type of front
steering the vehicle is equipped with. The two main types of front steering systems
are recirculating ball and rack-and-pinion steering gears. The front turnplate lock pins
must be removed before front toe can be adjusted.
Front toe procedure with steering rack and tie rod ends:
This procedure is for a 2010 Ford Crown Victoria (Ford).
1. Loosen the clamp on the steering rack boot (figure 32).

Figure 32 (Ford)
2. Loosen the tie rod lock nut (figure 33).
 Figure 33 (Ford)

3. Place a wrench on the hex part of the tie rod and turn it (figure 34). Adjust
the tie rod until the toe is within specifications.

Figure 34 (Ford)
4. Hold the tie rod in place while retightening the lock nut.

Front toe procedure with a steering box

3.4. Post-alignment verification of repair

After the alignment is complete, drive the vehicle. Make sure the vehicle
drives straight down the road and the steering wheel is centered.
 Resources
Alldata
Blain’s Farm and Fleet: https://www.farmandfleet.com/
Car Treatments: https://cartreatments.com/
Ford Motor Company
General Motors
Modern Tire Dealer: https://www.moderntiredealer.com/
Osceola Garage: https://www.osceolagarage.com/tire-wear-problems-make-sure-your-tires-are-
ready-for-a-long-summer-trip/
PantherBB:
http://www.pantherbb.com/p71interceptor/undercarriage/pictures/legacy/1989stationwagon/inde
x.html