Part No.

8252

m 1982-92 REPAIR MANUAL

Covers all U.S. and Canadian models of Chevrolet

Celebrity, Buick Century, Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera
and Pontiac 6000
 unir/uii
1982-92 REPAIR MANUAL

Senior Vice President Ronald A. Hoxter

Publisher Kerry A. Freeman, S.A.E.
Editor-In-Chief Dean F. Morgantini, S.A.E.
Director of Manufacturing Mike D’lmperio
Production Manager W. Calvin Settle, Jr., S.A.E.
Senior Editor Richard J. Rivele, S.A.E.
Project Manager Martin J. Gunther
Editor Ken Grabowski, A.S.E.

musooK
%JFTWCOMPANY
ONE OF THE DIVERSIFIED PUBLISHING COMPANIES,
A PART OF CAPITAL CITIES/ABC, INC.

Manufactured in USA
© 1992 Chilton Book Company
Chilton Way, Radnor, PA 19089
ISBN 0-8019-8252-9
Library of Congress Catalog Card No. 91-058818
1234567890 1098765432
Contents
1-2 How to Use this Book 1-20 Jump Starting
General Information 1-2 Tools and Equipment 1-51 Capacities Chart
1-13
and Maintenance Routine Maintenance
and Lubrication

2-2 Tune-Up Specifications 2-6 Firing Orders

Engine Performance 2-3 Tune-Up Procedures 2-8 Electronic Ignition

and Tune-Up

3-4 Engine Electrical Systems 3-36 Engine Specifications

Engine and 3-25 Engine Mechanical 3-86 Exhaust Systems
3-94
Engine Overhaul Service Engine Troubleshooting

4-2 Engine Emission Control System And Service

4-15 Electronic Engine Control System

5-22 Carbureted Fuel System 5-41 Diesel Fuel System

5-26 Gasoline Fuel Injection 5-44 Fuel Tank
System

6-9 Heating and Air Cond. 6-44 Instruments and Switches

6-26 Cruise Control 6-47 Lighting
6-34 Radio 6-50 Circuit Protection
6-36 Windshield Wipers 6-58 Wiring Diagram
 Contents
7-5 Manual Transmission 7-46 Front Drive Axle
7-46 Driveshaft and U-Joints 7-50 Clutch
7-46 Rear Axle 7-55 Automatic Transmission

8-3 Front Suspension 8-11 Rear Suspension

8-9 Wheel Alignment Specs. 8-15 Steering Suspension
and Steering

9-9 Disc Brakes 9-26 Anti-Lock Brake System

9-15 Drum Brakes 9-64 Brake Specifications
9-24 Parking Brake

10-2 Exterior 10-29 Stain Removal

10-9 Interior

10-31 Glossary

Glossary

10-35 Master Index

Master Index
 SAFETY NOTICE

Proper service and repair procedures are vital to the safe, reliable operation of all motor vehicles, as well as the personal safety of those performing
repairs. This manual outlines procedures for servicing and repairing vehicles using safe, effective methods. The procedures contain many NOTES,
CAUTIONS and WARNINGS which should be followed along with standard safety procedures to eliminate the possibility of personal injury or improper
service which could damage the vehicle or compromise its safety.

It is important to note that the repair procedures and techniques, tools and parts for servicing motor vehicles, as well as the skill and experience of the
individual performing the work vary widely. It is not possible to anticipate all of the conceivable ways or conditions under which vehicles may be serviced,
or to provide cautions as to ail of the possible hazards that may result. Standard and accepted safety precautions and equipment should be used when
handling toxic or flammable fluids, and safety goggles or other protection should be used during cutting, grinding, chiseling, prying, or any other process
that can caus material removal or projectiles.

Some procedures require the use of tools specially designed for a specific purpose. Before substituting another tool or procedure, you must be
completely satisfied that neither your personal safety, nor the performance of the vehicle will be endangered.

Although information in this manual is based on industry sources and is complete as possible at the time of publication, the possibility exists that some
car manufacturers made later changes which could not be included here. While striving for total accuracy, Chilton Book Company cannot assume
responsibility for any errors, changes or omissions that may occur in the compilation of this data.

PART NUMBERS

Part numbers listed in this reference are not recommendations by Chilton for any product by brand name. They are references that can be used with
interchange manuals and aftermarket supplier catalogs to locate each brand supplier’s discrete part number.

SPECIAL TOOLS

Special tools are recommended by the vehicle manufacturer to perform their specific job. Use has been kept to a minimum, but where absolutely
necessary, they are referred to in the text by the part number of the tool manufacturer. These tools can be purchased, under the appropriate part number,
from your GM dealer or regional distributor, or an equivalent tool can be purchased locally from a tool supplier or parts outlet. Before substituting any tool
for the one recommended, read the SAFETY NOTICE at the top of this page.

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

The Chilton Book Company expresses appreciation to General Motors Corp., Detroit, Michigan for their generous assistance.

No part of this publication may be reproduced, transmitted or stored in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopy,
recording, or by information storage or retrieval system without prior written permission from the publisher.
AIR CLEANER 1-13 IDENTIFICATION
AIR CONDITIONING Drive axle 1-13
Charging 1-31 Engine 1-8
Discharging 1-29 Model 1-7
Evacuating 1-30 Serial number 1-6
Gauge sets 1-29 Transmission
General service 1-26 Automatic 1-13
Inspection 1-28 Manual 1-13
Safety precautions 1-28 Vehicle 1-6
Service valves 1-30 JACKING POINTS 1-48
System tests 1-31 JUMP STARTING 1-20
Troubleshooting 1-31 MAINTENANCE INTERVALS
ANTIFREEZE 1-43 CHART 1-50
AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION MASTER CYLINDER 1-45
Fluid change 1-41 MODEL IDENTIFICATION 1-7
BATTERY OIL AND FUEL
Cables 1-19 RECOMMENDATIONS 1-37
Charging 1-21 OIL AND FILTER CHANGE
General maintenance 1-19
(ENGINE) 1-38
Fluid level and maintenance 1-21
OIL LEVEL CHECK
Jump starting 1-20 Engine 1-37
Transmission 1-41
Replacement 1-21
Testing 1-21 PCV VALVE 1-17
POWER STEERING PUMP 1-46
BELTS 1-21
PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE
CAPACITIES CHART 1-51
CHARTS 1-50
CHASSIS LUBRICATION 1-47 RADIATOR 1-43
COOLING SYSTEM 1-43 ROUTINE MAINTENANCE 1-13
CRANKCASE VENTILATION VALVE 1-17 SAFETY MEASURES 1-4
DRIVE AXLE SERIAL NUMBER LOCATION 1-6
Lubricant level 1-40 SPECIAL TOOLS 1-4
EVAPORATIVE CANISTER 1-18 SPECIFICATIONS CHARTS
FILTERS
Air 1-13
Crankcase 1-18
Fuel 1-14
Capacities 1-50
Preventive Maintenance
TIRES
Buying 1-35
1-50
AND
Oil 1-38 Inflation 1-34
FLUIDS AND LUBRICANTS Rotation 1-34
Automatic transmission 1-41 Storage 1-34
Battery 1-19 Tread depth 1-34
Chassis greasing 147 Wear problems 1-34
Coolant 1-43 TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT 1-2
Engine oil 1-37 TRAILER TOWING 1-47 Air Cleaner 1-13
Fuel recommendations 1-37 TRANSMISSION
Air Conditioning 1-29
Manual transmission 1-40 Routine maintenance 1-43
Master cylinder 1-45 TROUBLESHOOTING CHARTS Capacities Chart 1-51
Power steering pump 1-46 Air conditioning 1-54 Cooling System 1-43
Steering gear 1-47 Tires 1-56 Fuel Filter 1-14
FRONT DRIVE AXLE Wheels 1-56
Jump Starting 1-20
Lubricant level 1-40 VEHICLE IDENTIFICATION 1-6
FUEL FILTER 1-14 WHEEL BEARINGS 1-47 Oil and Filter Change 1-38
HOSES 1-24 WHEELS 1-56 Windshield Wipers 1-31
HOW TO USE THIS BOOK 1-2 WINDSHIELD WIPERS 1-31
 1-2 GENERAL INFORMATION AND MAINTENANCE
HOW TO USE THIS BOOK

This Chilton’s Total Car Care manual for In using the Table of Contents, refer to the When reference is made in this book to the
Celebrity, Century, Ciera and 6000 cars is bold listings for the beginning of the section. See right side or left side of the car, it should be
designed to teach you some of the operating the smaller listings or the index for information understood that the positions are always to be
principles of your car, and guide you through on a particular component or specifications. viewed from the front seat. Thus, the left side of
maintenance and repair operations. You can Before removing any bolts, read through the the car is always the driver’s side and the right
perform many repairs yourself, as long as you entire procedure. This will give you the overall side is always the passenger’s side, even when
have the time, initiative, patience, and proper view of what tools and supplies will be required. facing the car, as when working on the engine.
assortment of tools. There is nothing more frustrating than having to We have attempted to eliminate the use of
A secondary purpose of this book is a walk to the bus stop on Monday morning special tools whenever possible, substituting
reference for owners who want to understand because you were short one bolt on Sunday more readily available hand tools. However, in
their car and/or their mechanics better. In this afternoon. So read ahead and plan ahead. Each some cases the special tools are necessary.
case, no tools at all are required. operation should be approached logically and all These can be purchased from your General
Sections 1 and 2 will probably be the most procedures thoroughly understood before Motors dealer, or an automotive parts store.
frequently used in the book. The first section attempting any work. Always be conscious of the need for safety in
contains all the information that may be required Cautions and notes will be provided where your work. Never get under the car unless it is
at a moment’s notice - information such as the appropriate to help prevent you from injuring firmly supported by jackstands or ramps. Never
location of the various serial numbers and the yourself or damaging your car. Therefore, you smoke near or allow flame to get near the battery
proper towing instructions. It also contains all the should read through the entire procedure before or the fuel system. Keep your clothing, hands
information on basic day-to-day maintenance beginning the work, and make sure that you are and hair clear of the fan and pulleys when
that you will need to ensure good performance aware of the warnings. Since no number of working near the engine, if it is running. Most
and long component life. Section 2 covers tune- warnings could cover every possible situation, importantly, try to be patient; even in the midst of
up procedures which will assist you not only in you should work slowly and try to envision what an argument with a stubborn bolt, reaching for
keeping the engine running properly and at peak is going to happen in each operation ahead of the largest hammer in the garage is usually a
performance levels, but also in restoring some of time. cause for later regret and more extensive repair.
the more delicate components to operating When it comes to tightening things, there is As you gain confidence and experience, working
condition in the event of a failure. Sections 3 generally a slim area between too loose to on your car will become a source of pride and
through 10 cover repairs (rather than properly seal or resist vibration and so tight as to satisfaction.
maintenance) for various portions of the car, risk damage or warping. When dealing with When repair is not considered practical, we
with each section covering either one system or major engine parts, or with any aluminum tell you how to remove the part and then how to
two related systems. The appendix then lists component, it pays to procure a torque wrench install the new or rebuilt replacement. In this
general information which may be useful in and go by the recommended figures. way, you at least save the labor costs.
rebuilding the engine or performing some other
operation on any car.

TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT

It would be impossible to catalog each and Begin accumulating those tools that are used 5. Grease gun for chassis lubrication;
every tool that you may need to perform all the most frequently: those associated with routine 6. A container for draining oil;
operations included in this book. It would also maintenance and tune-up. In addition to the 7. Many rags for wiping up the inevitable
not be wise for the amateur to rush out and buy normal assortment of screwdrivers and pliers, mess.
an expensive set of tools on the theory that he you should have the following tools for routine In addition to the above items there are
may need one of them at some time. The best maintenance jobs: several others that are not absolutely necessary,
approach is to proceed slowly, gathering 1. SAE (or Metric) or SAE/Metric wrenches- but handy to have around. These include oil dry
together a good quality set of those tools that are sockets and combination open end/box end (oil-absorbent), a transmission funnel and the
used most frequently. Don’t be misled by the low wrenches in sizes from Vs in. (3mm) to 3A in. usual supply of lubricants, antifreeze and fluids,
cost of bargain tools. It is far better to spend a (19mm) and a spark plug socket (V« in.). although these can be purchased as needed.
little more for quality, name brand tools. Forged If possible, buy various length socket drive This is a basic list for routine maintenance, but
wrenches, 12 point sockets and fine-tooth 'extensions. One break in this department is that only your personal needs and desire can
ratchets are a better investment than their less the metric sockets available in the U.S. will all fit accurately determine your list of tools.
expensive counterparts. As any good mechanic the ratchet handles and extensions you may A more advanced set of tools, suitable for
can tell you, there are few worse experiences already have (V4 in., 3/s in., and V2 in. drive); tune-up work, can be drawn up easily. While the
than trying to work on a car or truck with bad 2. Jackstands for support; tools are slightly more sophisticated, they need
tools. Your monetary savings will be far 3. Oil filter wrench; not be outrageously expensive. The key to these
outweighed by frustration and mangled 4. Oil filler spout for pouring oil; purchases is to make them with an eye towards
knuckles.
 GENERAL INFORMATION AND MAINTENANCE 1-3
adaptability and wide range. A basic list of tune- all these cars have an electronic ignition system, seals easily and eliminates the need for a remote
up tools could include: the timing light should have an inductive pickup starting switch during compression testing.
1. Tachometer; which clamps around the No. 1 spark plug cable 2. A manifold vacuum gauge;
2. Spark plug socket (the timing light illustrated has one of these 3. A12 VDC test light;
3. Spark plug gauge and gapping tool pickups). 4. A combination volt/ohmmeter;
4. Timing light. In addition to these basic tools, there are 5. An induction meter, used to determine
The choice of a timing light should be made several other tools and gauges which, though not whether or not there is current flowing through a
carefully. A light which works on the DC current particularly necessary for basic tune-up work, wire.
supplied by the car battery is the best choice; it you may find to be quite useful. These include: Finally, you will find a torque wrench
should have a xenon tube for brightness. Since 1. A compression gauge. The screw-in type necessary for all but the most basic of work. The
1-4 GENERAL INFORMATION AND MAINTENANCE
SERVICING YOUR CAR
SAFELY

It is virtually impossible to anticipate all of the

hazards involved with automotive maintenance
and service, but car and common sense will
prevent most accidents.
The rules of safety for mechanics range from
“don’t smoke around gasoline”, to “use the
proper tool for the job”. The trick to avoiding
injuries is to develop safe work habits and take
every possible precaution.

Do’s
FIG.2 Three basic styles of torque wrenches
• Do keep a fire extinguisher and first aid kit
within easy reach.
• Do wear safety glasses or goggles when
cutting, drilling, grinding or prying, even if you
have 20/20 vision. If you wear glasses for the
sake of vision, then they should be made of
hardened glass that can serve also as safety
glasses, or wear safety goggles over your
regular glasses.
• Do shield your eyes whenever you work
around the battery. Batteries contain sulphuric
FIG.2a Compression gauge and vacuum/fuel acid; in case of contact with the eyes or skin,
pressure gauge flush the area with water or a mixture of water
and baking soda and get medical attention
immediately.
• Do use safety stands for any undercar
service. Jacks are for raising vehicles; safety
stands are for making sure the vehicle stays
raised until you want it to come down. Whenever
the vehicle is raised, block the wheels remaining
on the ground and set the parking brake.
• Do use adequate ventilation when working
with any chemicals. Like carbon monoxide, the
asbestos dust resulting from brake lining wear
can be poisonous in sufficient quantities.
• Do disconnect the negative battery cable
when working on the electrical system. The
Special Tools secondary ignition system can contain up to
beam-type models are perfectly adequate. The
newer click-type (breakaway) and digital torque * SEE FIGS. 1 to 3 40,000 volts.
wrenches are more accurate, but are also much Most of the jobs covered in this guide can be • Do follow manufacturer’s directions
more expensive and must be periodically accomplished with commonly available hand whenever working with potentially hazardous
recalibrated. tools. However, in some cases special tools are materials. Both brake fluid and antifreeze are
required. Your General Motors dealer can poisonous if taken internally.
probably supply the necessary tools, or they can • Do properly maintain your tools. Loose
be ordered from: hammerheads, mushroomed punches and
Kent-Moore Corporation chisels, frayed or poorly grounded electrical
1501 South Jackson St. cords, excessively worn screwdrivers, spread
Jackson, Ml. 49203 wrenches (open end), cracked sockets, slipping
ratchets, or faulty droplight sockets can cause
accidents.
• Do use the proper size and type of tool for
the job being done.
 GENERAL INFORMATION AND MAINTENANCE 1-5
• Don’t smoke when working around the
battery. When the battery is being charged, it
gives off explosive hydrogen gas.
• Don’t use gasoline to wash your hands;
there are excellent soaps available. Gasoline
may contain lead, an lead can enter the body
through a cut, accumulating in the body until you
are very ill. Gasoline also removes all the natural
oils from the skin so that bone dry hands will
suck up oil and grease.
• Don’t service the air conditioning system
unless you are equipped with the necessary
tools and training. The refrigerant, R-12, is
extremely cold and when exposed to the air, will
• Do when possible, pull on a wrench handle long time to leave the human body and you can instantly freeze any surface it comes in contact
rather than push on it, and adjust your stance to build up a deadly supply of it in your system by with, including your eyes. Although the
prevent a fall. simply breathing in a little ever day. You may not refrigerant is normally non-toxic, R-12 becomes
• Do be sure that adjustable wrenches are realize you are slowly poisoning yourself. a deadly poisonous gas in the presence of an
tightly adjusted on the nut or bolt and pulled so Always use power vents, windows, fans or open open flame. One good whiff of the vapors from
that the face is on the side of the fixed jaw. the garage doors. burning refrigerant can be fatal.
• Do select a wrench or socket that fits the • Don;t work around moving parts while
nut or bolt. The wrench or socket should sit wearing a necktie or other loose clothing. Short
straight, not cocked. sleeves are much safer than long, loose sleeves
• Do strike squarely with a hammer - avoid and hard-toed shoes with neoprene soles protect
glancing blows. your toes and give a better grip on slippery
• Do set the parking brake and block the surfaces. Jewelry such as watches, fancy belt
drive wheels if the work requires that the engine buckles, beads or body adornment of any king is
be running. not safe working around a car. Long hair should
be hidden under a hat or cap.
• Don’t use pockets for toolboxes. A fall or
bump can drive a screwdriver deep into your
body. Even a wiping cloth hanging from the back
• Don’t run an engine in a garage or pocket can wrap around a spinning shaft or fan. FIG.6 When using an open-end wrench, make
anywhere else without proper ventilation - • Don’t smoke when working gasoline, certain it is the correct size
EVER! Carbon monoxide is poisonous; it takes a cleaning solvent or other flammable material.

TWO WIRE CONDUCTOR THREE WIRE CONDUCTOR

THIRD WIRE GROUNDING GROUNDING THRU
THE CASE A CIRCUIT

FIG.6a When using a screwdriver, make

certain it is the correct size and the tip is in
THREE-WIRE CONDUCTOR THREE WIRE CONDUCTOR good condition. A) is a good screwdriver,
ONE WIRE TO A GROUND GROUNDING THRU
AN ADAPTER PLUG B) needs to be replaced

FIG.5 Make certain all electrical tools are properly grounded

1-6 GENERAL INFORMATION AND MAINTENANCE

SERIAL NUMBER IDENTIFICATION

• 11TH DIGIT - Indicates the specific plant

Vehicle at which the vehicle was assembled. Body
* SEE FIG. 7 • 12TH-17TH DIGITS - This is the plant
* SEE FIG. 8
The vehicle identification number (V.I.N.) is a sequential number, which identifies the specific
An identification plate for body-related items
seventeen digit alpha/numeric sequence number of each vehicle within a production run.
is attached to the front tie bar, just behind the
stamped on a plate which is located at the top, In the event of engineering change or a recall
passenger side headlamp. Information on the
left hand side of the instrument panel. involving only a certain quantity of vehicles
body identification plate would rarely be useful to
within a production run, the affected vehicles can
As far as the car owner is concerned, many of the owner. An illustration of the plate is provided.
be identified.
the digits in the V.I.N. are of little or no value. At /
certain times, it may be necessary to refer to the
V.I.N. to interpret certain information, such as
when ordering replacement parts or determining
if your vehicle is involved in a factory service
campaign (recall). In either of these instances,
the following information may be helpful:
• 1ST DIGIT - Indicates the place of
manufacture. A1 designates the U.S.A.; 2
designates Canada.
• 8TH DIGIT - Indicates the type and the
manufacturer of the original engine which was
installed in the vehicle (see Engine).
• 10TH DIGIT - Indicates the model year of
the vehicle. C designates a 1982 model, D is for
1983, and so on.

1 — BODY STYLE
2 — ASSEMBLY PLANT
3 — UNIT NUMBER
4 — PAINT TYPE
5 — ROOF OPTION
6 — SEAT OPTION
7 — TRIM COMBINATION
8 — UPPER BODY
9 — UPPER COLOR
10 — LOWER BODY
11 — REMAINING LINES
— AVAILABLE FOR
— PLANT USE
12 — LOWER COLOR
13 —MODEL YEAR
14 — TIME BUILD CODE
15— DIVISION
16— BODY TYPE

FIG.8 Body number plate identification system

 GENERAL INFORMATION AND MAINTENANCE 1-7
:l)(2)(3) (6) (8) : io) ill! ; 12 i thru (17)

DIVISION/ CAR LINE CARLINE/ BODY REST¬ ENGINE CHECK MODEL PLANT PRODUCTION SEQUENCE
MAKE CODE SERIES “TYPE RAINT CODE DIGIT YEAR CODE NUMBER
SYST.

1 G 1 in 3 1* 1@ X H R 1 0 0.0 0 1

=□ .7" 3
DIVISION CODE MAKE CAR LINE / SERIES ENGINE CODES

1G1 Chevrolet Passenger CHEVROLET (Code 1) OLDSMOBILE (Code 3) DIV

1G2 Pontiac Passenger CODE LITERS CARB USAGE
1G3 Oldsmobile Pass. B-Chevette CS M-Cutlass Ciera
1G4 Buick Passenger C-Cavalier Brougham(19-27) A 3.8 V6 2 1234
1G6 Cadillac Passenger D-Cavalier CS N-Delta 88 Royale C 1.6 L4 2 12
1G7 GM of Canada Pass. E-Cavalier(Hatchback) P-Custom Cruiser D 2.3 L4 FI 3
1GC Chevrolet Truck (Type 10 - Convert.) R-Cutlass Supreme F 5.0 V8 TPI 12
1GT GMC Truck F-Spectrum - Level I T-Calais Supreme G 5.0 V8 4 12
J8C*Chevrolet Truck F-Cavalier Z24 W-98 Regency Brougham H 5.0 V8 4 1234
1G8 Chevrolet MPV G-Spectrum - Level II (FWD) K 2.0 L4 EFI 1 *
1G5 GMC Truck MPV K-Nova X-98 Regency(FWD) L 3.0 V6 MFI 234
* L-Caprice Y-Delta 88 Royale M 2.0 L4 MFI 1
GM merchandised vehicle N-Caprice Classic Brougham R 2.5 L4 TBI 1234
built by Isuzu Motors. P-Camaro Sport Coupe Z-Toronado Brougham S 2.8 V6 MFI 12
Fujisawa Japan R-Sprint U 2.5 L4 TBI 234
S-Sprint ER BUICK (Code 4) W 2.8 V6 MFI 12346
T-Corsica Y 5.0 V8 4 34
U-Caprice Brougham C-Skylark Z 4.3 V6 TBI 12 4
ll- V-Beretta D-Skylark Limited 1 2.0 L4 EFI 1 34
CARLINE CODE W-Celebrity (19-27) E-Skyhawk(T Type) 2 1.0 L3 EFI 1
Y-Corvette F-Electra(T Type)(FWD) 3 3.8 V6 MFI 34
CHEVROLET Z-Monte Carlo G-Century Sport(T Type 4 1.6 L4 2 1
PONTIAC (Code 2) H-Century Custom 5 1.0 L3 2 1
A-Celebrity H-LeSabre 6 5.7 V8 4 1
B-Impala Caprice (RWD) B-Sunbird 2000 J-Regal 7 3.8 V6 SFI 4
F-Camaro D-Sunbird 2000 SE J-Somerset Custom 7 1.5 L4 2 1
G-El Camino/Monte Carlo E-Pontiac 6000 SE K-Somerset(T Type) 7 4.1 V8 DFI 6
J-Cavalier E-Fiero Coupe L-Century Limited 8 5.7 V8 MFI 1
L- E-Grand Am M-Regal Limited 8 4.1 V8 DFI 6
M-Sprint F-Fiero(SE)(37) M-Somerset Limited 9 2.8 V6 MFI 2
R-Spectrum F-Pontiac 6000 P-LeSabre Custom 9 5.0 V8 4 3
S-TVX (Venture) G-Fiero GT Sport Coupe R-LeSabre Limited 9 3.8 V6 SFI 4
T-Chevette G-Pontaic 6000 LE R-LeSabre Estate Wagon
Y-Corvette H-Pontiac 6000 STE S-Skyhawk Custom
J-Grand Prix T-Skyhawk Limited
PONTIAC K-Grand Prix LE V-Electra Estate(RWD)
L-T1000(08-68) W-Electra Park AvefFWD
A-6000 L-Safari Wagon X-Electra Limited(FWD)
B-Safari M-Fiero Sport Coupe Y-Riviera *T* NOTE: DIVISION / MAKE
F-Firebird P-Grand Prix Brougham Z-Riviera Luxury 1st Position = Country
G-Grand Prix Brougham R-Firefly 1 = United States
H-Bonneville S-Firebird(87) CADILLAC (Code 6) 2 = Canada
J-Sunbird 2000 U-Sunbird GT J = Japan
N-Grand Am V-Grand Am LE B-Fleetwood(FWD)
P-Fiero W-Grand AM SE D-DeVi1le(FWD) 2nd Position = Manufacture
T-T1000 W-Firebird Trans Am G-Cimarron G = General Motors
X-Bonneville H-Limousine
OLDSMOBILE Z-Bonneville LE L-Eldorado 3rd Position = Division
R-Allante 1 = Chevrolet
A-Cutlass Ciera OLDSMOBILE (Code 3.) S-Seville 2 = Pontiac
B-Custom Cruiser (RWD) S-Fleetwood 60 Special 3 = Oldsmobile
C-98 Regency (FWD) C-Firenza W-Fleetwood Brougham 4 = Buick
E-Toronado D-Firenza Brougham (RWD) 6 = Cadillac
G-Cutlass F-Calais 7 = Canada
H-Delta 88 J-Cutlass Ciera LS GM TRUCK & COACH Z = Isuzu (Luv)
J-Firenza K-Cutlass Calais (Code 5)
N-Calais M-Cutlass Supreme
Brougham(47-69) W-Caballero
BUICK

A-Century
B-LeSabre Electra BUICK (Cont'd) CADILLAC
Estate Wagon (RWD) @ RESTRAINT SYSTEM TYPE
C-Electra (FWD) N-Somerset Regal D-Fleetwood DeVille(RWD) 1 MANUAL BELTS
E-Riviera E-Eldorado 2 MANUAL BELTS(BUILT IN SFTY)
G-Regal CADILLAC J-Cimarron 3 MANUAL BELTS(BUILT IN SFTY-
H-LeSabre K-Seville DRIVER ONLY)
J-Skyhawk C-DeVi1le(FWD) V-Allante 4 AUTOMATIC BELTS

FIG.7 General Motors vehicle identification number system

1-8 GENERAL INFORMATION AND MAINTENANCE

1.6 OHC L-4 (CODE C) [I]

2.8L V-6 (CODES W& X & 9)

2.5L L-4

1— V.I.N. NUMBER LOCATION

2— OPTIONAL V.I.N. NUMBER LOCATION

FIG.9 Engine VIN plate locations

 GENERAL INFORMATION AND MAINTENANCE 1-9
Engine
The engine identification code will sometimes
be required to order replacement engine parts.
The code is stamped in different locations,
depending upon the size of the engine. Refer to
the accompanying illustrations to determine the
code location for your engine.

_ENGINE IDENTIFICATION _
Engine Engine Series
Displacement Identification Fuel No. of Engine
Year_Model_Cu. In. (liter)_(VIN)_System_Cylinders_Type
Celebrity 151 (2.5) R TBI 4 OHV
Celebrity 151 (2.5) 5 2 bbl 4 OHV
Celebrity 173(2.8) X 2 bbl 6 OHV
Celebrity 260 (4.3) T DFI 6 OHV
Century 151 (2.5) R TBI 4 OHV
Century 173(2.8) X 2 bbl 6 OHV
Century 183 (3.0) E 2 bbl 6 OHV
Century 260 (4.3) T DFI 6 OHV
Cutlass Ciera 151 (2.5) R TBI 4 OHV
Cutlass Ciera 173(2.8) X 2 bbl 6 OHV
Cutlass Ciera 183 (3.0) E 2 bbl 6 OHV
Cutlass Ciera 260 (4.3) T DFI 6 OHV
6000 151 (2.5) R TBI 4 OHV
6000 173(2.8) X 2 bbl 6 OHV
6000 260 (4.3) T DFI 6 OHV
Celebrity 151 (2.5) R TBI 4 OHV
Celebrity 151 (2.5) 5 2 bbl k 4 OHV
Celebrity 173(2.8) X 2 bbl 6 OHV
Celebrity 260 (4.3) T DFI 6 OHV
Century 151 (2.5) R TBI 4 OHV
Century 173(2.8) X 2 bbl 6 OHV
Century 183 (3.0) E 2 bbl 6 OHV
Century 260 (4.3) T DFI 6 OHV
Cutlass Ciera 151 (2.5) R TBI 4 OHV
Cutlass Ciera 173(2.8) X 2 bbl 6 OHV
Cutlass Ciera 183 (3.0) E 2 bbl 6 OHV
Cutlass Ciera 260 (4.3) T DFI 6 OHV
6000 151 (2.5) R TBI 4 OHV
6000 173 (2.8) X 2 bbl 6 OHV
6000 260 (4.3) T DFI 6 OHV
1-10 GENERAL INFORMATION AND MAINTENANCE
ENGINE IDENTIFICATION
Engine Engine Series
Displacement Identification Fuel No. of Engine
Year Model Cu. In. (liter) (VIN) System Cylinders Type
1984 Celebrity 151 (2.5) R TBI 4 OHV
Celebrity 151 (2.5) 5 2 bbl 4 OHV
Celebrity 173 (2.8) X 2 bbl 6 OHV
Celebrity 260 (4.3) T DFI 6 OHV
Century 151 (2.5) R TBI 4 OHV
Century 173(2.8) X 2 bbl 6 OHV
Century 183 (3.0) E 2 bbl 6 OHV
Century 231 (3.8) 3 MFI 6 OHV
Century 260 (4.3) T DFI 6 OHV
Cutlass Ciera 151 (2.5) R TBI 4 OHV
Cutlass Ciera 231 (3.8) 3 MFI 6 OHV
Cutlass Ciera 183 (3.0) E 2 bbl 6 OHV
Cutlass Ciera 260 (4.3) T DFI 6 OHV
6000 151 (2.5) R TBI 4 OHV
6000 173 (2.8) X 2 bbl 6 OHV
6000 173(2.8) HO Z 2 bbl 6 OHV
6000 260 (4.3) T DFI 6 OHV
1985 Celebrity 151 (2.5) R TBI 4 OHV
Celebrity 173(2.8) X 2 bbl 6 OHV
Celebrity 173 (2.8) HO W MFI 6 OHV
Celebrity 260 (4.3) T DFI 6 OHV
Century 151 (2.5) R TBI 4 OHV
Century 183 (3.0) E- 2 bbl 6 OHV
Century 231 (3.8) 3 MFI 6 OHV
Century 260 (4.3) T DFI 6 OHV
Cutlass Ciera 151 (2.5) R TBI 4 OHV
Cutlass Ciera 231 (3.8) 3 MFI 6 OHV
Cutlass Ciera 183 (3.0) E 2 bbl 6 OHV
Cutlass Ciera 260 (4.3) T DFI 6 OHV
6000 151 (2.5) R TBI 4 OHV
6000 173(2.8) X 2 bbl 6 OHV
6000 173(2.8) HO Z 2 bbl 6 OHV
6000 260 (4.3) T DFI 6 OHV
1986 Celebrity 151 (2.5) R TBI 4 OHV
Celebrity 173(2.8) X 2 bbl 6 OHV
Celebrity 173(2.8) HO W MFI 6 OHV
Century 151(2.5) R TBI 4 OHV
Century 173(2.8) X 2 bbl 6 OHV
Century 231 (3.8) 3 SFI 6 OHV
Cutlass Ciera 151 (2.5) R TBI 4 OHV
Cutlass Ciera 173(2.8) X 2 bbl 6 OHV
Cutlass Ciera 173(2.8) W MFI 6 OHV
Cutlass Ciera 231 (3.8) 3 SFI 6 OHV
Cutlass Ciera 231 (3.8) B SFI 6 OHV
 GENERAL INFORMATION AND MAINTENANCE Ml
ENGINE IDENTIFICATION
Engine Engine Series
Displacement Identification Fuel No. of Engine
Year__Model_Cu. In, (liter)_(VIN)_System_Cylinders_Type
1986 6000 151 (2.5) R TBI 4 OHV
6000 173 (2.8) X 2 bbl 6 OHV
6000 173(2.8) W MFI 6 OHV
1987 Celebrity 151 (2.5) R TBI 4 OHV
Celebrity 173 (2.8) W MFI 6 OHV
Century 151 (2.5) R TBI 4 OHV
Century 173 (2.8) W MFI 6 OHV
Century 231 (3.8) 3 SFI 6 OHV
Cutlass Ciera 151 (2.5) R TBI 4 OHV
Cutlass Ciera 173 (2.8) W MFI 6 OHV
Cutlass Ciera 231 (3.8) HO 3 SFI 6 OHV
6000 151 (2.5) R TBI 4 OHV
6000 173(2.8) W MFI 6 OHV
1988 Celebrity 151 (2.5) R TBI 4 OHV
Celebrity 173 (2.8) W MFI 6 OHV
Century 151(2.5) R TBI 4 OHV
Century 173 (2.8) W MFI 6 OHV
Century 231 (3.8) 3 SFI 6 OHV
Cutlass Ciera 151 (2.5) R TBI 4 OHV
Cutlass Ciera 173(2.8) W MFI 6 OHV
Cutlass Ciera 231 (3.8) 3 SFI 6 OHV
6000 151 (2.5) R TBI 4 OHV
6000 173 (2.8) W MFI 6 OHV
1989-90 Celebrity 151 (2.5) R TBI 4 OHV
Celebrity 173(2.8) W MFI 6 OHV
Century 151(2.5) R TBI 4 OHV
Century 173 (2.8) W MFI 6 OHV
Century 204 (3.3) N MFI 6 OHV
Cutlass Ciera 151 (2.5) R TBI 4 OHV
Cutlass Ciera 173(2.8) W MFI 6 OHV
Cutlass Ciera 204 (3.3) N MFI 6 OHV
6000 151 (2.5) R TBI 4 OHV
6000 173(2.8) W MFI 6 OHV
6000 192 (3.1) T MFI 6 OHV
1990 Celebrity 151 (2.5) R TBI 4 OHV
Celebrity 192 (3.1) T MFI 6 OHV
Century 151 (2.5) R TBI 4 OHV
Century 204 (3.3) N MFI 6 OHV
Cutlass© 151 (2.5) R TBI 4 OHV
Cutlass© 204 (3.3) N MFI 6 OHV
6000 151 (2.5) R TBI 4 OHV
6000 192 (3.1) T MFI 6 OHV
1-12 GENERAL INFORMATION AND MAINTENANCE
ENGINE IDENTIFICATION
Engine Engine Series
Displacement Identification Fuel No. of Engine
Year Model Cu. In. (liter) (VIN) System Cylinders Type
1991 Century 151(2.5) R TBI 4 OHV
Century 204 (3.3) N MFI 6 OHV
Cutlass© 151 (2.5) R TBI 4 OHV
Cutlass© 204 (3.3) N MFI 6 OHV
6000 151 (2.5) R TBI 4 OHV
6000 192 (3.1) T MFI 6 OHV
1992 Century 151 (2.5) R TBI 4 OHV
Century 204 (3.3) N MFI 6 OHV
Cutlass© 151 (2.5) R TBI 4 OHV
Cutlass© 204 (3.3) N MFI 6 OHV
6000 151 (2.5) R TBI 4 OHV
6000 192 (3.1) T MFI 6 OHV
TBI—Throttle Body Injection
MFI—Multiport Fuel Injection
SFI—Sequential Fuel Injection
HO—High Output
OHV—Overhead Valves
© Ciera & Cruiser

VIN

TRANS. NAMEPLATE
YPSILANTI PLANT, Ml TRANS. NAMEPLATE
THM 126 - THM 126C WINDSOR PLANT, CANADA
THM 126C

/' MANUAL 4S TRANSAXLE

“ N

P • F P • F
J_86992 |
1 J 105A J,
J - WINDSOR PLANT
106 - JULIAN DATE
•PF - MODEL A - SHIFT (A - FIRST
86992 - SERIAL NO. SHIFT)
4PF - MODEL CODE
(1984 PF)
H >» UMl nMIH.11

•PF 3.18 AXLE RATIO

•PI 2.84 AXLE RATIO
W/HEAVY DUTY RADIATOR

FIG.10 Manual transaxle identification locations

 GENERAL INFORMATION AND MAINTENANCE 1-13
HYDRA MATIC 4T60
TRANSAXLE I
FRONT WHEEL DRIVE CALENDAR YEAR
NAMEPLATE
LINE BUILT
LOCATION
(1 = LINE 1) JULIAN DATE OR
(2 = LINE 2) -=-!#### DAY OF THE YEAR
TRANSAXLE 13 = LINE 3)
(4 * LINE 4)

FRONT
MODEL YEAR
(1 = 1991)
H
sX SHIFT
A = FIRST SHIFT
B - SECOND SHIFT
C - THIRD SHIFT

MODEL
L MODEL
HYDRA MATIC 4T60
W - WARREN PLANT —1
■AM M
TRANSAXLE VEHICLE IDENTIFICATION u
SERIAL NUMBER IN
NUMBER IS STAMPED INTO THE BASE CODE 31
HORIZONTAL CAST RIB ON RIGHT REAR
OF TRANSAXLE HOUSING

FIG.11 Automatic transaxle identification locations

Transaxle
The transaxle code serves the same purpose
as the engine identification code. Transaxle code
locations may be determined by referring to the
accompanying illustration.

Drive Axle
The drive axle code is stamped onto the axle
shaft near the CV boot. FIG.12b Bolt strength is marked on bolt heads

ROUTINE MAINTENANCE

Proper maintenance of any vehicle is the key The literature provided with your car when it
to long and trouble-free vehicle life. As a was originally delivered includes the factory Air Cleaner
conscientious car owner, set aside a Saturday recommended maintenance schedule. If you do
morning, say once a month, to check or replace not have the factory schedule, we have provided } SEE FIG. 12
items which could cause major problems later, a mirror image of the GM schedule which should Regular air cleaner element replacement is a
keep your own personal log to jot down which be used. No matter which schedule is used, must, since a partially clogged element will
services you performed, how much parts cost follow it to the letter. Even if your car was cause a performance loss, decreased fuel
you, the date, and the exact odometer reading at previously owned, it is important that the mileage, and engine damage if enough dirt gets
the time. Keep all receipts for such items as maintenance be performed. The effects of poor into the cylinders and contaminates the engine
engine oil and filters, so that they may be maintenance can at least be halted by initiating a oil.
referred to in case of related problems or to regular maintenance program. The air cleaner element must be checked
determine operating expenses. As a do-it- periodically. Replacement of the element is
yourselfer, these receipts are the only proof you simply a matter of removing the wing nut(s) from
have that the required maintenance was the air cleaner lid, lifting off the lid, and removing
performed. In the event of a warranty problem, the old filter element. Wipe the inside of the
these receipts will be invaluable. housing with a damp cloth before placing the
1-14 GENERAL INFORMATION AND MAINTENANCE
BOLTS

GRADE 0 GRADE 2 GRADE S GRADE S GRADE 7 GRADE I ALLEN CARRIAGE

NUTS

PLAIN JAM CASTLE SELF-LOCKING SPEED

(CASTELLATED)

SCREWS

ROUND PAN FILLISTER HEXAGON SHEET

METAL

LOCKWASHERS

INTERNAL EXTERNAL SPLIT PLAIN

TOOTH TOOTH

STUD

FIG.12c Identification of various fasteners and bolts

new element into the housing. When tightening

the wing nut(s), just snug it down with moderate
finger pressure. Excessive tightening of the wing
nut(s) will damage components.

p» Never attempt to clean or soak

the element In gasoline, oil, or
cleaning solvent. The element Is
designed to be a throw-away Item.

Fuel Filter

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

t SEE FIGS. 13 to 15
Gasoline Engines
INTERNAL
The internal filter is located in the inlet fitting of
 GENERAL INFORMATION AND MAINTENANCE 1-15
THREADED FITTING
The filter is an inline unit located just ahead of
the TBI unit or to the left of the fuel tank.
1. Ensure the engine is cold, then unclamp
and remove the fuel hose.
2. Unscrew the filter from the fuel line.
To Install:
3. Place the new filter into position and
connect the fuel lines.
4. Tighten the retaining clamp.
5. Start the engine and check for fuel leaks.
QUICK-CONNECT FITTING
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Relieve the fuel system pressure.
3. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
4. Remove the filter bracket attaching screw
and filter bracket.
5. Grasp the filter and 1 fuel line fitting. Twist
the quick-connect fitting V4tum in each direction
to loosen any dirt within the fitting. Repeat for the
other fuel line fitting.
6. Use compressed air, blow out dirt from the
quick-connect fittings at both ends of the fuel
FIG. 12e Releasing the clips on air cleaner assembly - 3.3L Century shown filter.
7. To disconnect the fuel line fittings, squeeze
the plastic tabs of the male end of the connector
and pull the connector apart. Repeat for the other
fitting.
8. Remove the fuel filter.
Diesel Engines
The fuel filter is located on the left fender front
wheel house.
1. Disconnect the fuel lines from the inlet and
the outlet ports. Disconnect the drain hose and,
if equipped, the electrical connector harness at
the filter.
2. Remove the filter assembly clamp-to-
bracket bolts and the clamp. Rotate the filter
assembly to disengage it from the bracket, then
remove the filter assembly.
3. Cover the assembly with a cloth and clamp
it in a vise, using the line openings and the flat on
the opposite side.
4. Remove the filter and clean the gasket
mounting surface.
5. Coat the new filter gasket with engine oil or
diesel fuel. Install the filter on the cover and
tighten it to Vz turn beyond the gasket contact.
FIG. 12f Removing the air cleaner filter - 3.3L Century shown 6. Place the assembly into the bracket and
engage the bracket lock tab into the bracket.
Install new O-rings and loosely assemble the fuel
lines to the assembly.
all carburetors. The elements are spring loaded 2. Install a new filter (with the check valve 7. To complete the installation, reverse the
and are held against the inlet fitting gasket end facing the fuel line), the spring, the gasket removal procedures. >
surface. and the fuel line nut 8. Open the air bleed screw, turn the ignition
1. Disconnect the fuel line connection at the 3. Torque the fuel filter nut to 18 ft. lbs. (24 switch to the Run position (the pump will run)
fuel inlet filter nut. Remove the inlet filter nut, the Nm.), then install the fuel line and check for and close the air bleed screw when fuel flows
filter and the spring. leaks. from the opening.
9. Start the engine and check for leaks.
1-16 GENERAL INFORMATION AND MAINTENANCE

22

1. Air cleaner assembly

2. Body assembly
3. Cover assembly
4. Vacuum control
5. Thermo sensor assembly
6. Seal
7. Vacuum hose
8. Element
9. Hot idle compensator
10. Element gasket
11. Cover gasket
12. Hose tee
13. Vacuum hose
14. Vacuum hose
15. Carburetor gasket
16. Clip
17. Cap
18. Clamp
19. Wing nut
20. Washer
21. Bracket
22. Screw
23. Stud
24. Screw
25. Hose
26. Clamp
27. Flex hose
FIG.12 Air cleaner assembly used on carbureted or throttle body injected engines
 GENERAL INFORMATION AND MAINTENANCE 1-17

10 13

1.
2.
Water in fuel module
Cover assembly
0
3. Drain valve—7 Nm (5 lbs. ft.) min.
4. Water in fuel probe (part of No. 2)
5. Filter
6. Fully driven, seated and not stripped
7. Fuel heater (optional)
8. “O" ring
9. Bracket lock tab (part of No. 2)
10. Outlet pipe fitting—23 N m (17 lbs. ft.)
11. Inlet pipe fitting—27 N m (20 lbs. ft.)
12. Outlet pipe “O" ring
13. Inlet pipe “O” ring
14. Air bleed seal
15. Air bleed

FIG.13 Exploded view of a diesel fuel filter assembly

The inline filter should be
changed when changing the fuel
filter.

PCV Valve
The Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV)
valve regulated crankcase ventilation during
various engine running conditions. At high
vacuum (idle speed and partial load range) it will
open slightly and at low vacuum (full throttle) it
will open fully. This causes vapors to be drawn
from the crankcase by engine vacuum and then
sucked into the combustion chamber where they
are dissipated.
The PCV valve must be replaced every 30,000
miles (48,300km). Details on the PCV system,
including system tests, are given in Section 4.
The valve is located in a rubber grommet in
the valve cover, connected to the air cleaner
housing by a large diameter rubber hose. To
replace the valve:
1. Pull the valve (with the hose attached)
from the rubber grommet in the valve cover.
2. Remove the valve from the hose.
3. Install a new valve into the hose.
4. Press the valve back into the rubber
grommet in the valve cover.
FIG. 15a The fuel filter on multi-port fuel injection is located under the car near the rear spring
mount- 3.3L Century shown
1-18 GENERAL INFORMATION AND MAINTENANCE

PCV FILTER

The PCV filter is located in the air cleaner

housing and must be replaced every 50,000
miles (80,000km).
1. Remove the air cleaner housing lid.
2. Slide back the filter retaining clip and
remove the old filter.
3. Install the new filter, replace the retaining
clip and replace the housing lid.

Evaporative Emissions
System
♦ SEE FIG. 17
FIG. 15b Use care when disconnecting the special fuel line clips on high pressure fuel inlines -
Check the fuel vapor lines and the vacuum
3.3L Century shown
hoses for proper connections and correct
routing, as well as condition. Replace clogged,
damaged or deteriorated parts as necessary.
For more details on the evaporative emissions
system, please refer to Section 4.

Battery
The single battery used in models equipped
with gasoline engines is located at the drivers
side front corner of the engine compartment
 GENERAL INFORMATION AND MAINTENANCE 1-19

FIG.16a PCV valve system operation

Because of the added cranking loads, diesel disconnect the battery and clean the terminals of
models use two batteries; one in each front both the battery and the cables. Cleaning tools
comer of the engine compartment. All models for this purpose are available at most any auto
use a Delco Freedom II battery. Though this parts store. When you buy a cleaning tool, be
battery is considered to be maintenance free due sure to specify whether you have a top terminal
to the fact that it will never need water added, the or side terminal battery, as the type of tool differs
cattery should be given some attention once in a depending upon the style of battery.
while.

CAUTION
GENERAL MAINTENANCE
When loosening or tightening the
positive battery cable screw(s) at
The major cause of slow engine cranking or a the battery, DO NOT touch the
no-start condition is battery terminals which are wrench to any metal surface.
loose, dirty, or corroded. Every 3 months or so, Personal Injury and/or component
damage will result.
To use a terminal cleaning tool on
the battery(ies), It will probably be
necessary to remove the
windshield washer bottle (all
models) or the coolant recovery
tank (diesel only) to gain the
necessary clearance.
Batteries themselves can be cleaned using a
solution of baking soda and water. Surface
CABLES coatings on battery cases can actually conduct
electricity which will cause a slight voltage drain,
so make sure the battery case is clean. To
| SEE FIG. 19
remove the battery(ies):
Check the battery cables for signs of wear or
chafing. If corrosion is present on the cable or if
the cable is visible through the cable jacket, the
cable assembly should be replaced. If cable
replacement is necessary, it is best to purchase
a high quality cable that has the cable jacket
sealed to the terminal ends.
1-20 GENERAL INFORMATION AND MAINTENANCE

JUMP STARTING
A DEAD BATTERY
The chemical reaction in a battery produces explosive hydrogen Jump Starting Procedure
gas. This is the safe way to jump start a dead battery, reducing the
chances of an accidental spark that could cause an explosion. 1. Determine voltages of the two batteries; they must be the
same.
Jump Starting Precautions 2. Bring the starting vehicle close (they must not touch) so that
the batteries can be reached easily.
1. Be sure both batteries are of the same voltage. 3. Turn off all accessories and both engines. Put both vehicles
2. Be sure both batteries are of the same polarity (have the in Neutral or Park and set the handbrake.
same grounded terminal). 4. Cover the cell caps with a rag-do not cover terminals.
3. Be sure the vehicles are not touching. 5. If the terminals on the run-down battery are heavily corroded,
4. Be sure the vent cap holes are not obstructed. clean them.
5. Do not smoke or allow sparks around the battery. 6. Identify the positive and negative posts on both batteries and
6. In cold weather, check for frozen electrolyte in the battery. connect the cables in the order shown.
Do not jump start a frozen battery. 7. Start the engine of the starting vehicle and run it at fast idle.
7. Do not allow electrolyte on your skin or clothing. Try to start the car with the dead battery. Crank it for no more
8. Be sure the electrolyte is not frozen. than 10 seconds at a time and let it cool for 20 seconds in
between tries.
CAUTION: Make certin that the ignition key, in the vehicle with the 8. If it doesn’t start in 3 tries, there is something else wrong.
dead battery, is in the OFF position. Connecting cables to vehicles 9. Disconnect the cables in the reverse order.
with on-board computers will result in computer destruction if the 10. Replace the cell covers and dispose of the rags.
key is not in the OFF position.

Side terminal batteries occasionally pose a

MAKE CERTAIN VEHICLES DO NOT TOUCH
problem when connecting jumper cables.
■J CONNECT JUMPER O CONNECT OTHER+END There frequently isn’t enough room to
1 CABLE TO DEAD BATTERY OF JUMPER CABLE clamp the cables without touching sheet
(+ TE;v TO GOOD B VT ERY
{+ TERMINAL)
metal. Side terminal adaptors are available
to alleviate this problem and should be
BATTERY IN VEHICLE WITH removed after use
IS DISCHARGED/DEAD CHARGED/GOOD BATTERY

±=J ENGINE
a MAKE LAST CONNECTION 3 CONNECT SECOND
H OFSECOND JUMPER JUMPER CABLE TO GOOD
CABLE (-)TO ENGINE IN BATTERY (- TERMINAL)
CAR WITH DEAD BATTERY;
MAKE CONNECTION AWAY
FROM BATTERY. FOR NEGATIVE GROUND
VEHICLES
 GENERAL INFORMATION AND MAINTENANCE 1-21
TESTING p* If the car engine cranks over 7. Thoroughly flush the battery tray and the
normally when cold, but cranks surrounding area with clear water. Using a wire
slowly when hot the problem Is brush, remove any rust which may be on the
The quickest test of a battery, without mostly NOT the battery. The starter tray. Clear away the rust and dry the tray.
expensive tools, is a by using voltmeter set on and battery cables should be the 8. Coat the battery tray liberally with anti-rust
the 15 volt dc scale. Attach the leads across the first items suspected. paint. Thoroughly clean the battery and cable
battery terminals it should read about 13 volts
terminals BEFORE installing the battery.
with the engine and lights off. If turning the
9. Install the battery in the reverse of steps
headlights and defogger on lowers the reading CHARGING 1-4. Tighten the holddown bolt snugly - don’t
below 10.5 volts the battery is too low. Before overtighten it.
replacing the battery, charge the battery on a low After you clean the terminals and reconnect
ampere charger over for several hours, and Any time the engine won’t crank, check the
the battery, apply a corrosion inhibitor to the
repeat the test. The voltmeter should not drop color of the battery condition indicator (which is
terminals. Stay away from using any substance
below 10.5 volts when cranking the engine with actually a built-in hydrometer). If the indicator is
which is not meant specifically for this purpose.
the starter either, but caution must be used to green, the battery is sufficiently charged and in
Do not apply the corrosion inhibitor to the mating
prevent injury and the test could be misleading if good condition. A complete check of the starter
surfaces of the terminals unless specified by the
the starter is defective causing a greater voltage and related wiring should be performed. If the
chemical manufacturer.
drop. indicator is darkened, the battery is discharged.
In this case, the reason for the discharge should
be determined (e.g. low alternator output,
8ATTE BY TO'
BATTE RY TO'
voltage draw, etc.) then the battery itself should Drive Belts
/-
be tested and recharged. If the indicator is light
0 without a green dot visible or if it is yellow in
darkcne o
INOiC ATOB
(WITH GREEN
DOT)
OARKENE O
'NOiCATOR
'NO GREEN
_
~€
LIGHT
YE L LOW OR
8 « i qV< T
color, the battery must be replaced - DO NOT
attempt to test or recharge a battery with this INSPECTION
may 8 E JUMP
DOT) 1 NO'C A TO R
indicator condition. Test the electrical system
MAY 8 E JUWI DO NO T jump
started
started START after the battery has been replaced.
Every 12 months or 15,000 miles (24,100km)
FIG.20 Maintenance free batteries may - every 5,000 miles (8,000km) on diesel
contain a built in hydrometer REPLACEMENT engines, not dependent upon a period in months
* - check the drive belts for proper tension. Also
look for signs of wear, fraying, separation,
Charging Rati 1. Raise the hood and remove the front end glazing and so on, and replace the belts as
Amp* Tlmi diagonal brace(s) from above the battery(ies). required.
75 40 min 2. Disconnect the battery cables from the
50 1 hr battery(ies). It may be necessary to use a small
25 2 hr
10 5 hr
box end wrench or a in. drive ratchet to sneak ADJUSTMENT
in between the battery and the windshield
washer (or coolant recovery) tank. Avoid using
Test Load
an open-end wrench for the cable bolts. See the Belt tension should be checked with a gauge
BaHery (Amps)
previous CAUTION. made for that purpose. If a gauge is not
83-50 150 3. Loosen and remove the battery holddown available, tension can be checked with moderate
83-60 180
bolt and block. The use of a long extension thumb pressure applied to the belt at its longest
85A-60 170
which places the ratchet above the battery span midway between pulleys. If the belt has a
87A-60 230
89A-60 270 makes it very easy to get to the holddown bolt. free span less than 12 in. (305mm), it should
1981103 200 4. Carefully lift the battery from the engine deflect approximately Vs-Va in. (3-6mm). If the
1981104 / 250 span is longer than 12 in. (305mm), deflection
1981105 270
compartment, it may be necessary to remove
the air cleaner intake duct (except 4-cyl.) or the can range between Vs in. (3mm) and 1 2 3 4 5 6/a
1981577 260
intake resonator (4-cyl. only) for clearance. in.(IOmm).
Timperstun Minimum 5. Clean the battery and the battery tray +■ Models with a serpentine belt
m Voltage thoroughly with the baking soda/water solution. which is automatically adjusted by
70 or above 9.6 Don’t allow the solution to get into the small vent a spring loaded belt tensioner.
60 9.5 holes of the battery. Adjustments are not normally
50 9.4 6. Rinse the battery with clear water and wipe required.
40 9.3
it dry with a couple of clean paper towels. Don’t 1. Loosen the driven accessory’s pivot and
30 9.1
20 8.9 use the towels for anything else - they probably mounting bolts.
10 8.7 have traces of sulfuric acid on them. Dispose of 2. Move the accessory toward or away from
0 8.5 the paper towels. the engine until the tension is correct. You can
use a wooden hammer handle or a broomstick
as a lever, but do not use anything metallic.
FIG.21 Proper charging rates for a battery
1-22 GENERAL INFORMATION AND MAINTENANCE

WORN V-BELTS

V—Belts are vital to efficient engine operation-they drive the fan, water pump and other ac¬
cessories. They require little maintenance (occasional tightening) but they will not last forev¬
er. Slipping or failure of the V-belt will lead to overheating. If your V—belt looks like any of
these, it should be replaced.

Cracking or Weathering
This belt has deep cracks, which cause it to flex. Too much
flexing leads to heat build-tip and premature failure. These
cracks can be caused by using the belt on a pulley that is
too small. Notched belts are available for small diameter
pulleys.

Softening (Grease and Oil)

Oil and grease on a belt can cause the belt’s rubber
compounds to soften and separate from the reinforcing cords
that hold the belt together. The belt will first slip, then finally
fail altogether.

Glazing
Glazing is caused by a belt that is slipping. A slipping belt
can cause a run-down battery, erratic power steering,
overheating or poor accessory performance. The more the
belt slips, the more glazing will be built up on the surface of
the belt. The more the belt is glazed, the more it will slip. If
the glazing is light, tighten the belt.

Worn Cover
The cover of this belt is worn off and is peeling away. The
reinforcing cords will begin to wear and the belt will shortly
break. When the belt cover wears in spots or has a rough
jagged appearance, check the pulley grooves for roughness.

Separation
This belt is on the verge of breaking and leaving you
stranded. The layers of the belt are separating and the
reinforcing cords are exposed. It’s just a matter of time
before it breaks completely.
 GENERAL INFORMATION AND MAINTENANCE 1-23

3. Tighten the bolts and recheck the tension.

If new bolts have been installed, run the engine
for a few minutes, then recheck and readjust as
necessary.
It is better to have belts too loose than too
tight, because overtight belts will lead to bearing
failure, particularly in the water pump and
alternator. However, loose belts place an
extremely high impact load on the driven
component due to the whipping action of the
belt.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

Except Serpentine Belt

1. Loosen the driven accessory’s pivot and
FIG. 22b Release tension on serpentine drive belt by turning tensioner
mounting bolts.
2. Move the accessory toward or away from
the engine until there is enough slack in the belt
to slip it over the pulley of the driven accessory.

3. Install the new belt and move the Serpentine Belt

accessory toward or away from the engine until 1. Place a tool over the tensioner pulley axis
the tension is correct. You can use a wooden bolt.
hammer handle or a broomstick as a lever, but 2. Rotate the tool counterclockwise.
do not use anything metallic. 3. Remove the drive belt.
4. Tighten the bolts and adjust the belt 4. Remove the tool.
tension as explained above.
1-24 GENERAL INFORMATION AND MAINTENANCE
To install:
5. Route the belt over the pulleys, except
tensioner.
6. Place tool over tensioner, rotate
counterclockwise and install belt.
7. Remove belt and check alignment of
tension and belt.

Hoses
The upper and lower radiator hoses and the
heater hoses should be checked periodically for
deterioration, leaks, and loose clamps. G.M.
recommends that this be done every 12 months,
or 15,000 miles (24,100km). For your own
peace of mind, it may be wise to check these
items at least every spring and fall, since the
summer and winter months wreak the most
havoc with your cooling system. Expect to
replace the hoses about every 24 months or
30,000 miles (48,300km). To replace the hoses:

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

1. Drain the cooling system.

** CAUTION
When draining the coolant, keep in
mind that cats and dogs are
FIG. 22d Hold wrench on tension to release tension while installing the belt making certain belt attracted by the ethylene glycol
is positioned correctly antifreeze, and are quite likely to
drink any that is left in an
uncovered container or in puddles
on the ground. This will prove fatal
in sufficient quantity. Always drain
the coolant Into a sealable
container. Coolant should be
reused unless it is contaminated or
several years old.

2. Loosen the hose clamps at each end of the

hose to be removed. If the clamps are of the type
which have a screw positioned vertically in
relation to the hose, loosen the screw and gently
tap the head of the screw towards the hose.
Repeat this until the clamp is loose enough. If
corrosion on the clamp prevents loosening in
this manner, carefully cut the clamp off with
cutters and replace the clamp with a new one.
3. Once the clamps are out of the way, grasp
the hose and twist it off of the tube connection
using only moderate force. If the hose won’t
break loose, DON’T use excessive force -
doing so can easily damage the heater core and/
 GENERAL INFORMATION AND MAINTENANCE 1-25

Both the upper and lower radiator hoses are called upon to perform difficult jobs in an inhos¬
pitable environment. They are subject to nearly 18 psi at under hood temperatures often over
280°F, and must circulate nearly 7500 gallons of coolant an hour-3 good reasons to have
good hoses.
Swollen Hose
A good test for any hose is to feel it for soft or spongy
spots. Frequently these will appear as swollen areas of the
hose. The most likely cause is oil soaking. This hose could
burst at any time, when hot or under pressure.

Cracked Hose
Cracked hoses can usually be seen but feel the hoses to be
sure they have not hardened; a prime cause of cracking. This
hose has cracked down to the reinforcing cords and could
split at any of the cracks.

Frayed Hose End (Due to Weak Clamp)

Weakened clamps frequently are the cause of hose and
cooling system failure. The connection between the pipe and
hose has deteriorated enough to allow coolant to escape
when the engine is hot.

Debris in Cooling System

Debris, rust and scale in the cooling system can cause the
inside of a hose to weaken. This can usually be felt on the
outside of the hose as soft or thinner areas.
1-26 GENERAL INFORMATION AND MAINTENANCE
1. 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm)
2. Upper mounting
panel
3. insulator
4. Radiator assembly
5. Radiator support

VIEW A |
TYPICAL

FIG.22b Radiator mounting and hose removal. Cut old hoses off of radiator or heater core to avoid damaging them by pulling.

or radiator tubes. Using a razor blade, carefully operated with a continuous leak. Because the
slit the portion of the hose which covers the
Air Conditioning System expansion valve regulates the flow of refrigerant
connection point, peel the hose off of the to the evaporator, the level of refrigerant there is
connection and disconnect the hose. fairly constant. The receiver/drier stores any
4. If so equipped, disconnect the hose excess of refrigerant, and so a loss will first
GENERAL SERVICING appear there as a reduction in the level of liquid.
routing clamps from the hose.
5. Remove the hose and clean the hose PROCEDURES As this level nears the bottom of the vessel,
connection points. some refrigerant vapor bubbles will begin to
6. Slip the (loosened) hose clamps onto the appear in the stream of liquid supplied to the
The most important aspect of air conditioning
hose ends and install the new hose, being careful expansion valve. This vapor decreases the
service is the maintenance of a pure and
to position the hose so that no interference is adequate charge of refrigerant in the system. A capacity of the expansion valve very little as the
encountered. refrigeration system cannot function properly if a valve opens to compensate for its presence. As
7. Position the clamps at the ends of the significant percentage of the charge is lost. the quantity of liquid in the condenser decreases,
hoses, beyond the sealing bead, and centered on Leaks are common because the severe vibration the operating pressure will drop there and
the clamping surface. Tighten the hose clamps encountered in an automobile can easily cause a throughout the high side of the system. As the
with a screwdriver - don’t use a wrench on the sufficient cracking or loosening of the air R-12 continues to be expelled, the pressure
screw heads to tighten them, as overtightening conditioning fittings; as a result, the extreme available to force the liquid through the
can damage the hose and/or connections points. operating pressures of the system force expansion valve will continue to decrease, and,
8. Refill the cooling system (detailed later) refrigerant out. eventually, the valve’s orifice will prove to be too
and check for leakage. The problem can be understood by much of a restriction for adequate flow even with
considering what happens to the system as it is the needle fully withdrawn.
 GENERAL INFORMATION AND MAINTENANCE 1-27

"HPV" HIGH PRESSURE VAPOR LEAVING COMPRESSOR.

HPL" VAPOR IS COOLED DOWN BY CONDENSER AIR FLOW AND LEAVES AS HIGH PRESSURE LIQUID.
"LPL" ORIFICE METERS THE LIQUID R-12. INTO EVAPORATOR. REDUCING ITS PRESSURE, AND
WARM BLOWER AIR ACROSS EVAPORATOR CORE CAUSES BOILING OFF OF LIQUID INTO VAPOR.
"LPV” LEAVES EVAPORATOR AS LOW PRESSURE VAPOR AND RETURNS WITH THE
SMALL AMOUNT OF . . .

"Ipl" . . LOW PRESSURE LIQUID THAT DIDN'T BOIL OFF COMPLETELY BACK TO
THE COMPRESSOR TO BE COMPRESSED AGAIN.

FIG.23 Air conditioning system functional layout

At this point, low side pressure will start to 5. When adding oil, pour it through an 9. When overhauling a compressor, pour
drop, and severe reduction in cooling capacity, extremely clean and dry tube or funnel. Keep the some of the oil into a clean glass and inspect it.
marked by freeze-up of the evaporator coil, will oil capped whenever possible. Do not use oil that If there is evidence of dirt or metal particles, or
result. Eventually, the operating pressure of the has not been kept tightly sealed. both, flush all refrigerant components with clean
evaporator will be lower than the pressure of the 6. Use only refrigerant R-12. Purchase refrigerant before evacuating and recharging the
atmosphere surrounding it, and air will be drawn refrigerant intended for use in only automatic air system. In addition, if metal particles are
into the system wherever there are leaks in the conditioning systems. Avoid the use of present, the compressor should be replaced.
low side. refrigerant R-12 that may be packaged for 10. Schrader valves may leak only when
Because all atmospheric air contains at least another use, such as cleaning, or powering a under full operating pressure. Therefore, if
some moisture, water will enter the system and horn, as it is impure. leakage is suspected but cannot be located,
mix with the R-12 and the oil. Trace amounts of 7. Completely evacuate any system that has operate the system with a full charge of
moisture will cause slugging of the oil, and been opened to replace a component, or that has refrigerant and look for leaks from all Schrader,
corrosion of the system. Saturation and clogging leaked sufficiently to draw in moisture and air. valves. Replace any faulty valves.
of the filter/drier, and freezing of the expansion This requires evacuating air and moisture with a
valve orifice will eventually result. As air fills the good vacuum pump for at least one hour. If a Additional Preventive Maintenance
system to a greater and greater extent, it will system has been open for a considerable length Checks
interfere more and more with the normal flows of of time it may be advisable to evacuate the
refrigerant and heat. system for up to 12 hours (overnight). ANTIFREEZE

From this description, it should be obvious 8. Use a wrench on both halves of a fitting In order to prevent heater core freeze-up
that much of the repairman’s time will be spent that is to be disconnected, so as to avoid placing during A/C operation, it is necessary to maintain
detecting leaks, repairing them, and then torque on any of the refrigerant lines. permanent type antifreeze protection of +15°F
restoring the purity and quantity of the refrigerant
charge. A list of general precautions that should
be observed while doing this follows:
1. Keep all tools as clean and dry as possible.
2. Thoroughly purge the service gauges and
hoses of air and moisture before connecting
ORIFICE (EXPANSION) TUBE
them to the system. Keep them capped when not
in use. 1. LONG SCREEN END (INLET)
3. Thoroughly clean any refrigerant fitting 2. "O” RING
before disconnecting it, in order to minimize the 3. SHORT SCREEN END (OUTLET)
entrance of dirt into the system.
INSTALL WITH SHORTER SCREEN END IN
4. Plan any operation that requires opening
EVAPORATOR INLET PIPE (TOWARDS EVAPORATOR)
the system beforehand, in order to minimize the USE NEW "O" RINGS.
length of time it will be exposed to open air. Cap
or seal the open ends to minimize the entrance of
foreign material. FIG.24 Air conditioning system orifice tube
1-28 GENERAL INFORMATION AND MAINTENANCE
4. Discharge the system only in a well
ventilated area, as high concentrations of the gas
can exclude oxygen and act as an anesthetic.
When leak testing or soldering, this is
particularly important, as toxic gas is formed
when R-12 contacts any flame.
5. Never start a system without first verifying
that both service valves are back-seated, if
equipped, and that all fittings throughout the
system are snugly connected.
6. Avoid applying heat to any refrigerant line
Outlet
Refrigerant vapor
or storage vessel. Charging may be aided by
inlet using water heated to less than 125°F (52°C) to
Inlet warm the refrigerant container. Never allow a
Baffle refrigerant storage container to sit out in the sun,
Internal tube
Desiccant bag or near any other source of heat, such as a
Filter assembly radiator.
Oil bleed hole in 7. Always wear goggles when working on a
tube
system to protect the eyes. If refrigerant
contacts the eyes, it is advisable in all cases to
see a physician as soon as possible.
FIG.26 Air conditioning system accumulator components
8. Frostbite from liquid refrigerant should be
treated by first gradually warming the area with
(—9°C), or lower. A reading of —15°F (-26°C) is cool water, and then gently applying petroleum
SAFETY WARNINGS jelly. A physician should be consulted.
ideal since this protection also supplies
sufficient corrosion inhibitors for the protection 9. Always keep refrigerant drum fittings
of the engine cooling system. Because of the importance of the necessary capped when not in use. Avoid sudden shock to
safety precautions that must be exercised when the drum, which might occur from dropping it or
r+The same antifreeze should not
working with air conditioning systems and R-12 from banging a heavy tool against it. Never carry
be used longer than the
refrigerant, a recap of the safety precautions are a drum in the passenger compartment of a car.
manufacturer specifies.
outlined. 10. Always completely discharge the system
RADIATOR CAP 1. Avoid contact with a charged refrigeration before painting the vehicle (if the paint is to be
For efficient operation of an air conditioned system, even when working on another part of baked on), or before welding anywhere near
car’s cooling system, the radiator cap should the air conditioning system or vehicle. If a heavy refrigerant lines.
have a holding pressure which meets tool comes into contact with a section of copper
manufacturer’s specifications. A cap which fails tubing or a heat exchanger, it can easily cause
to hold these pressures should be replaced. the relatively soft material to rupture. SYSTEM INSPECTION
2. When it is necessary to apply force to a
CONDENSER
fitting which contains refrigerant, as when
Any obstruction of or damage to the
checking that all system couplings are securely The air conditioning system should be
condenser configuration will restrict the air flow
tightened, use a wrench on both parts of the checked periodically for worn hoses, loose
which is essential to its efficient operation. It is
fitting involved, if possible. This will avoid putting connections, low refrigerant, leaks, dirt and
therefore a good rule to keep this unit clean and
in proper physical shape. torque on refrigerant tubing. (It is advisable, bugs. If any of these conditions exist they must
when possible, to use tube or line wrenches be corrected or they will reduce the efficiency of
Bug screens are regarded as when tightening these flare nut fittings.) your air conditioning system.
obstructions. 3. Do not attempt to discharge the system by
Keep the Condenser Clear
CONDENSATION DRAIN TUBE merely loosening a fitting, or removing the
service valve caps and cracking these valves. Periodically inspect the front of the condenser
This single molded drain tube expels the
condensation, which accumulates on the bottom Precise control is possible only when using the for bent fins or foreign material (dirt, bugs,
of the evaporator housing, into the engine service gauges. Place a rag under the open end leaves, etc.) If any cooling fins are bent,
compartment. If this tube is obstructed, the air of the center charging hose while discharging straighten them carefully with needlenosed
conditioning performance can be restricted and the system to catch any drops of liquid that pliers: You can remove any debris with a stiff
condensation buildup can spill over onto the might escape. Wear protective gloves when bristle brush or hose.
vehicle’s floor. connecting or disconnecting service gauge
Operate the A/C System
hoses.
Periodically
A proper recycling machine that
meets SAE standards should be A lot of A/C problems can be avoided by
employed when discharging the simply running the air conditioner at least once a
system. Discharging Freon Into the week, regardless of the season. Let the system
air should be avoided. run for at least 5 minutes a week (even in the
 GENERAL INFORMATION AND MAINTENANCE 1-29
HIGH SIDE DISCHARGING THE SYSTEM

CAUTION
Perform in a well ventilated area.
The compressed refrigerant used In
the air conditioning system
expands and evaporates Into the
atmosphere at a temperature of -
21.7°F (-29.8°C) or less. This will
freeze any surface (Including your
eyes) that it contacts. In addition,
the refrigerant decomposes into a
poisonous gas In the presence of
flame.

R-12 refrigerant Is a
chlorofluorocarbon which, when
released into the atmosphere, can
contribute to the depletion of the
ozone layer in the upper
CENTER SERVICE CONNECTOR atmosphere. Ozone filters out the
(SYSTEM SERVICE) harmful radiation from the sun. If
possible, an approved R-12
Recovery Recycling machine that
FIG.28 Air conditioning system gauge set
meets SAE standards should be
employed when discharging the
winter), and you’ll keep the internal parts valves and the use of the attached test hoses system. Follow the operating
lubricated as well as preventing the hoses from allow the user to perform the following services: instruction provided with the
hardening. 1. Test high and low side pressures. approved equipment exactly to the
2. Remove air, moisture, and contaminated properly discharge the system.
refrigerant. 1. Operate the air conditioner for at least 10
REFRIGERANT LEVEL 3. Purge the system of refrigerant. minutes.
4. Charge the system with refrigerant. 2. Attach the gauges, shut off the engine, and
CHECK the air conditioner.
The manifold valves are designed so they
have no direct effect on gauge readings, but 3. Connect the center hose of the gauge set
The factory installed air conditioning unit has serve only to provide for, or cut off, flow of to the proper recovery system for the used R-12.
no sight glass for system checks. It is refrigerant through the manifold. During all The refrigerant will be discharged there and this
recommended that all air conditioning service testing and hook-up operations, the valves are precaution will control its uncontrolled exposure.
work be entrusted to a qualified mechanic. The kept in a closed position to avoid disturbing the 4. Open the low side hand valve on the gauge
system is a potentially hazardous one. refrigeration system. The valves are opened only slightly.
to purge the system of refrigerant or to charge it. 5. Open the high side hand valve slightly.
When purging the system, the center hose is If not discharged Into a recovery
GAUGE SETS uncapped at the lower end, and both valves are system, too rapid a purging process
cracked open slightly. This allows refrigerant will be identified by the appearance
pressure to force the entire contents of the of an oily foam. If this occurs, close
Most of the service work performed in air system out through the center hose. During the hand valves a little more until
conditioning requires the use of two gauges, one charging, the valve on the high side of the this condition stops.
for the high (head) pressure side of the system, manifold is closed, and the valve on the low side
the other for the low (suction). 6. Close both hand valves on the gauge set
is cracked open. Under these conditions, the low when the pressures read 0 and all the refrigerant
The low side gauge records both pressure and pressure in the evaporator will draw refrigerant
vacuum. Vacuum readings are calibrated from 0 has left the system.
from the relatively warm refrigerant storage
to no less than 60 psi (413.7kpa). container into the system. The system should always be
The high side gauge measures pressure from discharged before attempting to
0 to at least 600 psi (4137kpa). Both gauges are remove any hoses or component
threaded into a manifold that contains two hand parts of the air conditioning
shut off valves. Proper manipulation of these system.
1-30 GENERAL INFORMATION AND MAINTENANCE

5. Accumulator
15. Electrical connector
16. Pressure cycling switch adjusting screw
17. "Schrader” type valve
FIG.29 Air conditioning system straight
adapter. J-5420 for 7/16; J-25498 for Vs

FIG.25 Air conditioning system low pressure cut off switch - Schrader valve type shown

FIG.30 Air conditioning system 90 degree

adapter. J-9459 for 7/1s; J-25499 for 3/s

to do so will result in ineffective charging and

possible damage to the system.
Use this hook-up for the proper evacuation
procedure:
1. Connect both service gauge hoses to the
high and low service outlets.
2. Open high and low side hand valves on
gauge manifold.
3. Open both service valves a slight amount
(from back seated position), allow refrigerant to
discharge from system.
4. Install center charging hose of gauge set to
vacuum pump.
5. Operate vacuum pump for at least one
hour. (If the system has been subjected to open
conditions for a prolonged period of time it may
be necessary to “pump the system down”
overnight. Refer to “System Sweep”
procedure.)
FIG. 25a Air conditioning pressure switch and remove Schrader valve cap - 3.3L Century shown
If low pressure gauge does not
show at least 28 In.Hg within 5
minutes, check the system for a
leak or loose gauge connectors.
EVACUATING THE SYSTEM
6. Close hand valves on gauge manifold.
7. Shut off pump.
Before charging any system it is necessary to 8. Observe low pressure gauge to determine
purge the refrigerant and draw out the trapped if vacuum is holding. A vacuum drop may
moisture with a suitable vacuum pump. Failure indicate a leak.

HOSE
VALVE CORE
CONNECTION
DEPRESSOR
SCHRADER VALVE

4L LLWZZZi
TEST HOSE
PH 8 SIDED (FOR SOCKET)
[~2~1 O-RING cnCT74 L'l
SERVICE GAGE PORT
COMPRESSOR

FIG.27 Air conditioning system charging valve FIG.31 Air conditioning system schrader valve
 GENERAL INFORMATION AND MAINTENANCE 1-31
SYSTEM SWEEP LEAK TESTING

An efficient vacuum pump can remove all the Refrigerant leaks show up as oily areas on the
air contained in a contaminated air conditioning various components because the compressor oil
system very quickly, because of its vapor state. is transported around the entire system along
Moisture, however, is far more difficult to with the refrigerant. Look for oily spots on all the
remove because the vacuum must force the hoses and lines, and especially on the hose and
liquid to evaporate before it will be able to tubing connections. If there are oily deposits, the
remove it from the system. If a system has system may have a leak, and you should have it
become severely contaminated, as, for example, checked by a qualified repairman.
it might become after all the charge was lost in A small area of oil on the front of
conjunction with vehicle accident damage, the compressor is normal and no
moisture removal is extremely time consuming. cause for alarm.
A vacuum pump could remove all of the
moisture only if it were operated for 12 hours or Leak Testing the System
more. There are several methods of detecting leaks
Under these conditions, sweeping the system in an air conditioning system; among them, the
with refrigerant will speed the process of two most popular are (1) halide leak-detection or
2. Install the dispensing valve (closed
moisture removal considerably. To sweep, the “open flame method,” and (2) electronic
position) on the refrigerant container. Single and
follow the following procedure: leak-detection.
multiple refrigerant manifolds are available to
1. Connect vacuum pump to gauges, operate The halide leak detection is a torch like device
accommodate one to four 15 oz. (0.425kg)
it until vacuum ceases to increase, then continue which produces a yellow-green color when
cans.
operation for ten more minutes. refrigerant is introduced into the flame at the
3. Attach the center charging hose to the
2. Charge system with 50% of its rated burner. A purple or violet color indicates the
refrigerant container valve.
refrigerant capacity. presence of large amounts of refrigerant at the
4. Open dispensing valve on the refrigerant
3. Operate system at fast idle for ten minutes. burner.
valve.
4. Discharge the system. 5. Loosen the center charging hose coupler In electronic leak detector is a small portable
5. Repeat twice the process of charging to where it connects to the gauge manifold to allow electronic device with an extended probe. With
50% capacity, running the system for ten the escaping refrigerant to purge the hose of the unit activated the probe is passed along
minutes, and discharging it, for a total of three contaminants. those components of the system which contain
sweeps. 6. Tighten the center charging hose refrigerant. If a leak is detected, the unit will
6. Replace drier. connector. sound an alarm signal or activate a display signal
7. Pump system down as in Step 1. 7. Purge the low pressure test hose at the depending on the manufacturer’s design. It is
8. Charge system. gauge manifold. advisable to follow the manufacturer’s
8. Start the engine, roll down the windows instructions as the design and function of the
and adjust the air conditioner to maximum detection may vary significantly.
CHARGING THE SYSTEM cooling. The engine should be at normal
operating temperature before proceeding. The
« CAUTION
heated environment helps the liquid vaporize
more efficiently. Care should be taken to operate
CAUTION Placing the refrigerant can In a either type of detector In well
container of warm water (no hotter ventilated areas, so as to reduce
Never attempt to charge the system
than 125°F [52°C]) will speed the the chance of personal Injury,
by opening the high pressure gauge which may result from coming In
control while the compressor Is charging process. Slight agitation
contact with poisonous gases
operating. The compressor of the can Is helpful too, but be
produced when R-12 Is exposed to
accumulating pressure can burst careful not to turn the can upside
flame or electric spark.
the refrigerant container, causing down.
severe personal Injury. 9. Crack open the low side hand valve on the
manifold. Manipulate the valve so that the
refrigerant that enters the system does not cause
Refrigerant enters the suction side of the the low side pressure to exceed 40 psi
system as a vapor while the compressor is
Windshield Wipers
(275.8kpa). Too sudden a surge may permit the
running. Before proceeding, the system should entrance of unwanted liquid to the compressor. Each exposed windshield wiper is divided
be in a partial vacuum after adequate evacuation. Since liquids cannot be compressed, the basically into four segments:
Both hand valves on the gauge manifold should compressor will suffer damage if compelled to 1. Wiper arm connected to the pivot at the
be closed. attempt it. If the suction side of the system base of the windshield.
1. Attach both test hoses to their respective remains in a vacuum the system is blocked. 2. Wiper blade connected at the opposite end
service valve ports. Mid-position manually Locate and correct the condition before of the wiper arm and hoes the yokes.
operated service valves, if present. proceeding any further.
1-32 GENERAL INFORMATION AND MAINTENANCE
TPICO BLADE FRAME LEVER RUBBER BLADE
ELEMENT ASSY. SQUEEZE SIDES
OF RETAINER

LEVER JAWS
LATCH LOCK RELEASE

METAL BACKING IS WIDER HOLD FRAME METAL BACKING STRIP

FROM TWISTING
RETAINING TABS

METAL BACKING STRIP

INSERT SCREWDRIVER
BEHIND TAB AND PUSH
FRAMt-;
HANDLE DOWN
ANCO

LATCH-PIN

YOKE JAWS
RUBBER BLADE ELEMENT ASSY.
YOKE JAWS
FIG.33 Wiper blade assembly; the refill elements can be changed without the replacing the entire blade assembly

3. Wiper yokes hold the element in a manner

which distributed the pressure load across the
element.
4. Wiper element flexible rubber element
which contacts the windshield glass and actually
performs the cleaning function.
For maximum effectiveness and longest life,
the windshield and wiper elements should be
kept clean. Dirt, tree sap, road tar, etc., will
cause streaking, smearing, and wiper element
deterioration. Hardening of the elements will
cause the elements to chatter as they wipe the
windshield. Wash the windshield thoroughly with
a glass cleaner at least once a month. Wipe off
the rubber element with a wet rag afterwards.
Obviously, the item most frequently requiring
replacement is the element. It is very rarely
necessary to replace the blade or arm unless
they become accidentally bent or damaged in
some other manner.
Your car can use one of three types of
elements: the first type is commonly referred to
as the Anco® style; the second type is the Trico®
style; and the third is the plastic style which uses
a plastic blade assembly. Replacement of any
element type is very simple and requires only a
few minutes to do.
 GENERAL INFORMATION AND MAINTENANCE 1-33

REPLACEMENT

ANCO® Style Element

1. Locate the red release button at the top of
one of the yokes (free yoke), push the button,
and separate the free yoke from the blade.
2. Pull the element out of the other yoke
(attached yoke).
3. Transfer the free yoke to the new element,
being sure to engage the element into all of the
yoke jaws.
4. Feed the other end of the element into the
attached yoke, again being sure that the element
is fully engaged.
5. Push the button and snap the free yoke into
place on the blade. Release the button and
double-check that the element is fully engaged
into all of the yoke jaws.

Trico® Style Element

1. Squeeze the sides of the element retainer
(located on only one side of the element) and
pull the element out of the blade/yoke assembly.
2. To install the new element, guide the new
element into all of the blade/yoke jaws. The
element must be positioned in the same manner
as the one which was removed. When the
retainer comes in contact with the end of the
blade, make sure that each side of the retainer is
positioned on the inside of the jaws, then snap
the element into place.
3. Check that the element is fully engaged to
all of the jaws before operating the wipers. FIG. 33c Make certain not to confuse the coolant bottle with the windshield washer fluid.
Even a little anti-freeze here would impair vision. _
1-34 GENERAL INFORMATION AND MAINTENANCE
Plastic Mark the wheel position or TIRE INFLATION
1. Remove the wiper blade and element direction of rotation on radial tires
assembly from the wiper arm. or studded snow tires before
removing them. Tire inflation is the most ignored item of auto
2. Pull the wiper blade and the element apart,
maintenance. Gasoline mileage can drop as
then pull the element downward. This will
much as 0.8% for every 1 pound per square inch
disengage the element from the retaining tabs.
TIRE DESIGN (6.9kpa) of under inflation.
3. Pull the element out, guide the new
Two items should be a permanent fixture In
element into place, and release the hand
every glove compartment: a tire pressure gauge
pressure on the blade to engage the retaining
For maximum satisfaction, tires should be and a tread depth gauge. Check the tire air
tabs. Be sure that the element is completely
used in sets of five. Mixing of different types pressure (including the spare) regularly with a
engaged. Snap the wiper blade and element
(radial, bias-belted, fiberglass belted) should be pocket type gauge. Kicking the tires won’t tell
assembly into place on the arm.
avoided. Conventional bias tires are constructed you a thing, and the gauge on the service station
Two different wiper blade attachment
so that the cords run bead to bead at an angle. air hose is notoriously inaccurate.
methods are used. Refer to the accompanying
Alternate plies run at an opposite angle. This type The tire pressures recommended for your car
illustration to replace the blades.
of construction gives rigidity to both tread and are usually found on the left door or in the
Wiper arm replacement is covered in Section
side wall. Bias belted tires are similar in owner’s manual. Ideally, inflation pressure
6, later in this book.
construction to conventional bias ply tires. Belts should be checked when the tires are cool. When
run at an angle and also at a 90° angle to the the air becomes heated it expands and the
bead, as in radial tires. Tread life is improved pressure increases. Every 10°F (rise (or drop) in
Tires and Wheels considerably over the conventional bias tire. The temperature means a difference of 1 psi
radial tire differs in construction, but instead of (6.9kpa), which also explains why the tire
the carcass running at an angle of 90«t to each appears to lose air on a very cold night. When it
other they run at an angle of 90° to the bead. This is impossible to check the tires cold, allow for
TIRE ROTATION gives the tread a great deal of rigidity and the pressure build-up due to heat. If the hot pressure
side wall a great deal of flexibility (which exceeds the cold pressure by more than 15 psi
Tire rotation is recommended every 6,000 accounts for the characteristic bulge associated (103.4kpa), reduce your speed, load or both.
miles (9,655km) or so, to obtain maximum tire with radial tires). Otherwise internal heat is created in the tire.
wear. The pattern you use depends on whether When the heat approaches the temperature at
or not your car has a usable spare. Radial tires which the tire was cured, during manufacture,
TIRE STORAGE the tread can separate from the body.
should not be cross-switched (from one side of
the car to the other). They last longer if their
direction of rotation is not changed. Snow tires Store the tires at the proper inflation pressure CAUTION
sometimes have directional arrows molded into if they are mounted on wheels. Keep them in a Never counteract excessive
the side of the carcass. The arrow shows the cool dry place, laid on their sides. If the tires are pressure build-up by bleeding off
direction of rotation. They will wear very rapidly stored in the garage or basement, do not let them air pressure (letting some air out).
if the rotation is reversed. Studded tires will lose stand on a concrete floor. Set them on strips of This will only further raise the tire
their studs if their rotational direction is reversed. wood. operating temperature.
 GENERAL INFORMATION AND MAINTENANCE 1-35
Before starting a long trip with lots of luggage,
you can add about 2-4 psi (13.8—27.6kpa) to
the tires to make them run cooler, but never
exceed the maximum inflation pressure on the
side of the tire.

CARE OF SPECIAL WHEELS

If you have invested money in magnesium,

aluminum alloy or sport wheels, special
precautions should be taken to make sure your
investment is not wasted, and that your special
wheels look good for the lifetime of the car. replaced. You can measure snow tires in the
Special wheels are easily scratched and/or same manner by using the tails side of the
damaged. Occasionally check the rim for cracks, Lincoln penny. If you can see the top of the
damage or air leaks. If any of these conditions Lincoln memorial, it’s time to replace the snow
are found, replace the wheel. In order to prevent tires.
this type of damage, and the costly replacement
of a special wheel, observe the following
precautions: BUYING NEW TIRES
• Take special care not to damage the
wheels during removal, installation, balancing
When buying new tires, give some though to
etc. After removal of the wheels from the car,
the following points, especially if you are
place them on a rubber mat or other protective
considering a switch to larger tires or a different
surface.
profile series:
• While the vehicle is being driven, be careful
1. All four tires must be of the same
not to drive over sharp obstacles or allow the
construction type. This rule cannot be violated.
wheels to contact the shoulder of the road.
Radial, bias, and bias-belted tires must not be
• When washing, use a mild detergent and
mixed.
water. Avoid using cleansers with abrasives, or
hard brushes. And a little polish after washing 2. The wheels should be the correct width for
will help your wheels keep that new look. the tire. Tire dealers have charts of tire and rim
compatibility. A mismatch will cause sloppy
• If possible, remove your special wheels TREAD DEPTH handling and rapid tire wear. The tread width
from the car during the winter months, and
should match the rim width (inside bead to
replace them with regular steel rims. Salt and
All tires made since 1968, have 7 built-in inside bead) within an inch. For radial tires, the
sand that is applied to the roadways for snow
tread wear indicator bars that show up as V2 in. rim width should be 80% or less of the tire (not
removal during these months can do severe
damage to special wheels. (13mm) wide smooth bands across the tire tread) width.
• Make sure that the recommended lug nut when V32 in. (0.8mm) of tread remains. The 3. The height (mounted diameter) of the new
torque is never exceeded, or you may crack your appearance of tread wear indicators means that tires can change speedometer accuracy, engine
wheels. And never use snow chains with special the tires should be replaced. In fact, many states speed at a given road speed, fuel mileage,
wheels. have laws prohibiting the use of tires with less acceleration, and ground clearance. Tire
• If you intend to store the wheels, lay them than V32 in. (0.8mm) tread. manufacturers furnish full measurement
flat on a protective surface and cover them. Do You can check your own tread depth with an specifications.
not stack them on top of each other and do not inexpensive gauge or by using a Lincoln head 4. The spare tire should be usable, at least for
place anything else, except a protective cover, penny. Slip the Lincoln penny into several tread short distance and low speed operation, with the
on them. grooves. If you can see the top of Lincoln’s head new tires.
in 2 adjacent grooves, the tires have less than 5. There shouldn’t be any body interference
V32 in. (0.8mm) tread left and should be when loaded, on bumps, or in turns.
1-36 GENERAL INFORMATION AND MAINTENANCE

FLUIDS AND LUBRICANTS

Fuel and Engine Oil Anticipated Temperature

Range SAE Viscosity
Recommendations
Multi- Above 32°F 10W—40
grade 10W—50
20W—40
20W—50
10W—30
FUEL RECOMMENDATIONS
May be used as low 10W—30
as — 10°F 10W—40

Gasoline Consistently below 5W—20

10°F 5W—30
All these cars must use unleaded fuel. The use
Single- Above 32°F 30
of leaded fuel will plug the catalyst rendering it
grade
imperative, and will increase the exhaust back
pressure to the point where engine output will be Temperature between 10W
+32°F and -10°F
severely reduced. The minimum octane for all
engines is 87 RON. All unleaded fuels sold in the FIG.38a Oil viscosity selection chart - vehicle since 1987 are designed to use 5W-30 all year
U.S. are required to meet this minimum octane
rating.
Use of a fuel too low in octane (a Diesel Depending upon the temperature, the wax flakes
measurement of anti-knock quality) will result in can block wither or both of the two fuel filters
spark knock. Since many factors affect operating (tank or engine) and stop fuel from reaching the
efficiency, such as altitude, terrain, air ** WARNING engine.
temperature and humidity, knocking may result Since Number 2-D fuel has more paraffin
Failure to use fuels specified below components than Number 1-D (or blended
even though the recommended fuel is being
will result In engine damage for Number 2-D), Number 2-D would be more apt to
sued. If persistent knocking occurs, it may be
which the manufacturer Is not cause waxing problems (See Fuel
necessary to switch to a slightly higher grade of
responsible. Use of fuel additives Is Recommendations).
unleaded gasoline. Continuous or heavy
NOT recommended. If the fuel tank filter plugs due to waxing, a
knocking may result in serious engine damage,
for which the manufacturer is not responsible. check valve inside of the fuel tank will open and
allow fuel to flow to the engine. Because of the
p* Your car’s engine fuel At any outside temperature above 20°F (-
check valve location, not all of the fuel in the tank
requirement can change with time, 7°C), Number 2-D diesel fuel should be used,
due to carbon buildup, which can be used if the filter remains clogged (check
since it will give better fuel economy then
valve open). About 4 gallons of fuel will remain
changes the compression ratio. If Number 1-D. When the outside temperature is
in the tank when you mn out of fuel. When
your car’s engine knocks, pings, or below 20°F (—7°C), use either Number 1-D fuel
driving in temperatures below 20°F (-7°C), be
runs on, switch to a higher grade of (preferred if available) or a blended Number 2-D.
fuel, if possible, and check the sure to keep the tank more than V* full to help
The blended Number 2-D has 1-D fuel in it, but
prevent running out of fuel if the filter plugs.
ignition timing. Sometimes will usually be called just Number 2-D. Check
changing brands of gasoline will If equipped, the fuel line heater should be used
with the service station operator to be sure you
cure the problem. If it Is necessary when temperatures are expected to be below
get the proper fuel.
to retard timing from 10°F (-12°C) and you have Number 2-D fuel in
Diesel fuel may foam during the tank.
specifications, don’t change it
filling, which Is normal. The foam
more than a few degrees. Retarded WATER IN THE FUEL
may cause the automatic pump
timing will reduce power output Diesel fuel should be purchased from a
nozzle to turn off before the tank Is
and fuel mileage, and will Increase reputable dealer, since the majority of the water
actually filled. The foaming effect
engine temperature. found in a diesel fuel system gets into the
can be reduced by slowing the fill
rate. system during refueling. Water can cause
extensive (and expensive) damage to the diesel
OPERATING IN COLD WEATHER fuel system.
All types of diesel fuel have a certain paraffin These cars have a water separator system In
content. The paraffin components are high in the fuel tank and a Water-In-Fuel indicator on the
energy content and help to improve fuel instrument panel. The indicator is designed to
economy. Below about 20°F (-7°C), the trouble illuminate when starting the engine (as a bulb
with paraffin begins. At this temperature, the check), or when water is detected in the tank. If
paraffin components begin turning to wax flakes. the light comes on at any other time, there is
 GENERAL INFORMATION AND MAINTENANCE 1-37
probably a fault in the detector circuit. If the
engine loses power and begins to run rough
without the detector light on, there is probably
water in the system. Both the fuel system and the
detector circuit should be checked.
If the indicator light comes on immediately
after refueling, a large amount of water was
pumped into the tank - DON’T run the engine;
the fuel system must be purged right away.
If the indicator lights after braking, cornering,
etc., a moderate amount of water is in the
system. In this case, the water should be FIG.38 Gasoline engine oil selection chart
removed within one or two days.

DlESE L ENGINES USE THESE SAE VISCOSITY GRADES

OIL RECOMMENDATIONS 1 , J
SAE X

i i ¥,

I SAE 15W - 40
Ik
( SAE lOW - 30

Gasoline Engine 1 1
OF -2° TO 3? 40 60 80 100
Under normal conditions, the engine oil and °C 30 - TO 10 0 »0 TO 30 *0

the filter should be changed at the first 7500 TEMPERATURE RANGE YOU EXPECT BEFORE NEXT OIL CHANGE

miles (12,000km) or once a year (1982-86

models), or every 3,000 miles (4,800km) or 3 FIG.39 Diesel engine oil selection chart
months (1987-92 models) or whichever comes
first. G.M. recommends that the oil filter be
changed at every other oil change thereafter on
qualities (less friction = easier and more
the 1982-86 models. On 1987 and later models ** CAUTION
efficient engine operation) and fuel saving
G.M. recommends that the oil filter be changed
characteristics. Use of engine oil additives is not Failure to use an SG/CC or SG/CD oil
at every oil change. For the small price of an oil
recommended, because if the correct oil is will result In excessive engine wear
filter, it’s cheap insurance to replace the filter at
purchased to begin with, the additives will be of and will probably void the engine
every oil change on the 1982-86 models as
no value. warranty. Failure to change the oil
well. One of the larger filter manufacturers points
out in its advertisements that not changing the r+ Use of engine oils without an SG and filter at the recommended
filter leaves one quart of dirty oil in the engine. rating, or falling to change the oil intervals will have the same
This claim is true and should be kept in mind and filter at the recommended results.
when changing your oil. intervals will cause excessive
Under severe conditions, such as: a) driving engine wear and could affect your
in dusty areas, b) trailer towing, c) frequent idling warranty. In diesel engines, the use of oil in regard to its
or idling for extended periods, or d) frequently viscosity is limited. With a diesel, you only have
Diesel Engines three choices: 10W-30,15W-40, or straight
driving short distances - 4 miles (6km) or so
The engine oil requirements for diesel engines 30W. Refer to the accompanying chart to
- in freezing weather, the engine oil and filter
should be changed every 3 months or 3000 are more stringent than those for gasoline choose the engine oil viscosity according to the
engines, since contaminant build-up in the expected outside air temperature.
miles (4,800km), whichever comes first. If dust
storms are ever encountered in your area, engine oil occurs much faster in the diesel
change the oil and filter as soon as possible after engine. Also, the diesel contaminants are more
the storm. damaging to the engine oil. OIL LEVEL CHECK
The A.P.I. (American Petroleum Institute) Under normal operating conditions, the engine
designation (printed on the oil container) oil and filter MUST be changed every 5000 miles
The engine oil level may be checked either
indicates the classification of engine oil for use (8,000km), regardless of the time period
when the engine is cold or warm, though the
under certain operating conditions. Oils having involved.
latter is preferred. If you check the level while the
an A.P.I. service designation of SG should be Under severe operating conditions, such as engine is cold, DO NOT start the engine first,
used in your car. The SG rating designates the those mentioned previously under Gasoline since the cold oil won’t drain back to the engine
highest quality oil meant for passenger car Engines, the oil and filter must be changed every oil pan fast enough to give an accurate reading.
usage. It is okay to use an SG oil having a 2500 miles (4,000km) or 3 months, whichever Even when the engine is warm, wait a couple of
combination rating such as SG/CC or SG/CD for comes first.
minutes after turning it off to let the oil drain back
gasoline powered engines. In addition, G.M. In the diesel equipped car, ONLY an engine oil
to the pan.
recommends the use of SG/Energy Conserving having one of the two following A.P.I.
1. Raise the hood, pull the dipstick out and
oil. Oils labeled, Energy Conserving (or Saving); designations should be used: SG/CC or SG/CD.
wipe it clean.
Fuel (Gas or Gasoline) Saving, etc., are Period! Don’t use any other type of oil.
2. Reinsert the dipstick, being sure that you
recommended due to their superior lubricating push it back in completely.
 1-38 GENERAL INFORMATION AND MAINTENANCE

FIG.42 Loosen the drain plug and get the

drain pan ready

3. Pull the dipstick back out, hold it OIL AND FILTER CHANGE
horizontally, and check the level at the end of the
dipstick. Some dipsticks are marked with ADD
and FULL lines, others with ADD 1 QT and I SEE FIGS. 42 to 47
OPERATING RANGE. In either case, the 1. Drive the car until the engine is at normal
3. Remove the drain plug from the engine oil
level must be above the ADD line. Reinsert the operating temperature. A run to the parts store
pan, after wiping the plug area clean. The drain
dipstick completely. for oil and a filter should accomplish this. If the
plug is the bolt inserted at an angle into the
4. if oil must be added, it can be poured in engine is not hot when the oil is changed, most
lowest point of the oil pan.
through the rocker (valve) cover after removing of the acids and contaminants will remain inside
4. The oil from the engine will be HOT. It will
the filler cap on the cover. Recheck the level a the engine.
probably not be possible to hold onto the drain
few minutes after adding oil. 2. Shut off the engine, and slide a pan of at
plug. You may have to let it fall into the pan and
5. Be sure that the dipstick and oil filler cap least six quarts capacity under the oil pan.
fish it out later. Allow all the oil to drain
are installed before closing the hood. completely. This will take a few minutes.
 GENERAL INFORMATION AND MAINTENANCE 1-39

FIG.44 Loosen the oil filter, move the drain

pan under the filter then remove it. Take care
as there is still oit in the filter.

FIG.45 Wipe clean oil on the new filter seal

before Installing it

FIG.46 Install the new oil filter and hand

tighten it.

FIG. 47a Placing the vehicle on safety stands and removing one wheel may make access to the
oil filter easier on some models

5. Wipe off the drain plug, removing any located on the passenger side face of the engine
traces of metal particles. Check the condition of block. Use an oil strap wrench to loosen the oil
the plastic drain plug gasket. If it is cracked or filter; these are available at auto parts stores. It
distorted in any way, replace it. Reinstall the is recommended that you purchase one with as
drain plug and gasket. Tighten the drain plug thin a strap as possible, to get into tight areas.
FIG.47 Make certain the drain plug and filter snugly. Place the drain pan on the ground, under the
are installed properly before adding the 6. The oil filter for the V6 gasoline engine is filter. Unscrew and discard the old filter. It will be
new oil right up front, just behind the radiator. The four VERY HOT, so be careful.
cylinder oil filter is at the back of the engine. It is 7. If the oil filter is on so tightly that it
impossible to reach from above, and almost as collapses under pressure from the wrench, drive
inaccessible from below. It may be easiest to a long punch or a nail through it, across the
remove the right front wheel and reach through diameter and as close to the base as possible,
the fender opening to get at the four cylinder oil and use this as a lever to unscrew it. Make sure
filter. The oil filter of the diesel V6 engine is you are turning it counterclockwise.
1-40 GENERAL INFORMATION AND MAINTENANCE
8. Clean off the oil filter mounting surface
with a rag. Apply a thin film of clean engine oil to
the filter gasket.
9. Screw the filter on by hand until the gasket
makes contact. Then tighten it by hand an
additional Vz to 3A of a turn. Do not overtighten.
10. Remove the filler cap on the rocker
(valve) cover, after wiping the area clean.
11. Add the correct number of quarts of oil
specified in the Capacities chart. If you don’t
have an oil can spout, you will need a funnel. Be
certain you do not overfill the engine, which can
cause serious damage. Replace the cap.
12. Check the oil level on the dipstick. It is
normal for the level to be a bit above the full
mark. Start the engine and allow it to idle for a
few minutes.

CAUTION
Do not run the engine above Idle
speed until it has built up oil
pressure, indicated when the oil
light goes out.

Check around the filter and and drain plug for

any leaks.
13. Shut off the engine, allow the oil to drain
for a minute, and check the oil level.
After completing this job, you will have
several quarts of oil to dispose of. The best thing
to do with it is to funnel it into old plastic milk
containers or bleach bottles. Then, you can
locate a service station with a recycling barrel.
Disposing of oil in drain systems pollutes the
environment and violates federal law.

Manual Transaxle

FLUID RECOMMENDATIONS

Under normal conditions, the lubricant used in

the manual transaxle does not require periodic

FIG. 47c Using a funnel, even with the newer type bottles, can help keep the engine clean by
avoiding the drips and spills
 GENERAL INFORMATION AND MAINTENANCE 1-41
4. Allow all of the lubricant to drain from the delivery purposes. Remember, these are the
transaxle, then install the drain plug and gasket factory recommendations, and in this case are
(if so equipped). considered to be the minimum. You must
5. Remove the transaxle dipstick and fill the determine a change interval which fits your
transaxle to the capacity shown in the Capacities driving habits. If your vehicle is never subjected
chart. Do not overfill. to these conditions, a 100,000 mile
6. Check the oil level as outlined above. (161,000km) change interval is adequate. If you
are a normal driver, a two-year/30,000 mile
(48,300km) interval will be more than sufficient
Automatic Transaxle to maintain the long life for which your automatic
transaxle was designed.
When replacing or adding fluid, use only fluid
FLUID RECOMMENDATIONS labeled Dexron®ll. Use of other fluids could
FIG.49 Most models use filler plug to fill and cause erratic shifting and transmission damage.
check the manual transaxle lubricant
Under normal operating conditions, the
automatic transmission fluid only needs to be
changing. The fluid level in the transaxle should changed every 100,000 miles (161,000km),
be checked every 12 months or 7500 miles according to G.M. If one or more of the following
(12,000km), whichever comes first. The manual driving conditions is encountered, the fluid and
transaxle is designed for use with Dexron®ll filter should be changed every 15,000 miles
automatic transmission. Don’t use standard (24,100km): a) driving in heavy city traffic when
manual transmission lubricant in the transaxle. the outside temperature regularly reached 90°F
(32°C), b) driving regularly in hilly or
mountainous areas, c)towing a trailer, or d)
LEVEL CHECK using the vehicle as a taxi or police car, or for

1. Park the car on a level surface. Before

proceeding, the transaxle case must be cool to
the touch. Due to the expansion characteristics
of the Dexron®ll fluid, it will be above the level of
the filler plug when the transmission is hot.
2. Slowly remove the filler plug from the
driver’s side of the transaxle (see the
illustration). The lubricant level should be right at
the bottom of the filler plug hole. If the fluid
trickles out as the plug is removed, or if you can
just touch the fluid through the filler plug hole,
the level is correct.
3. If you cannot feel the fluid level with your
finger through the filler plug hole, add Dexron®ll
automatic transmission through the hole until the
fluid begins to trickle out of the hole.
4. When the level is correct, install the filler
plug and tighten it snugly.

DRAiN AND REFILL

1. Park the car on a level surface, turn off

engine and apply the parking brake.
2. Place a container of adequate capacity
beneath the drain plug which is located
underneath the car, on the bottom of the
transaxle housing.
3. Use the proper size wrench to loosen the
drain plug slowly, while maintaining a slight
upward pressure, to keep the oil from leaking out FIG. 51a Automatic transaxle dipstick - 3.3L Century shown
around the plug.
 1-42 GENERAL INFORMATION AND MAINTENANCE
be between the dimples above the FULL HOT
mark. If the fluid feels hot, the level should be in
the hatched area, between the ADD 1 PT and
FULL HOT marks.
8. If required, add just enough Dexron®ll
automatic transmission fluid to bring the level to
where it should be. One pint of fluid will raise the
level from ADD to FULL when the transaxle is
hot. Recheck the level.
9. Reinsert the dipstick, again making sure
that it is fully seated. Lower the hood.

** WARNING
NEVER overfill the transaxle, as
fluid foaming and subsequent
transaxle damage will occurl

LEVEL CHECK

The fluid level may be checked with the

transaxle code, warm, or hot, as this is
accounted for on the dipstick graduations.
If the vehicle has Just been driven
In extreme conditions, allow the
fluid to cool for about 30 minutes.
1. Park the car on a level surface and set the
parking brake.
2. Start the engine, apply the regular brakes,
and move the shift lever through all of the gear
ranges, ending up in Park.
3. Let the engine idle for at least 5 minutes
with the transaxle in Park.
4. The dipstick is located on the driver’s side
of the engine compartment, ahead of the engine.
5. Raise the hood, pull the dipstick out and
wipe it off with a clean cloth.
6. Reinsert the dipstick, being sure that it is
fully seated.
7. Again, remove the dipstick. Hold it
FIG. 52a Special long neck funnels are available for adding automatic transmission fluid, they
horizontally and read the fluid level. Touch the must be kept clean
fluid - if it feels cold or warm, the level should
 GENERAL INFORMATION AND MAINTENANCE 1-43
DRAIN, FILTER SERVICE AND After the hissing stops, completely remove the
REFILL
Cooling System cap (press and turn counterclockwise).
Check the condition of the radiator cap gasket
Every 12 months or 15,000 miles
and the seal inside of the cap. The radiator cap
(24,100km), the following services should be
Some transaxle use RTV sealer In is designed to seal the cooling system under
performed:
place of a gasket. Do not attempt to normal operating conditions which allows the
1. Wash and inspect the radiator cap and the
replace the sealer with a gasket. system to build-up a certain amount of pressure
filler neck.
(this pressure rating is stamped or printed on the
1. Jack up the front of your vehicle and 2. Check the coolant level and the degree of cap). The pressure in the system raises the
support it with jackstands. freezing protection. boiling point of the coolant to help prevent
2. Remove the front and side pan bolts. 3. If a pressure tester is available, pressure overheating. If the radiator cap does not seal, the
3. Loosen the rear bolts about 4 turns. test the system and the radiator cap. boiling point of the coolant is lowered and
4. Carefully pry the oil pan loose, allowing the 4. Inspect the hoses of the cooling system. overheating will occur. If the cap must be
fluid to drain. Expect to replace the hoses at 24 months/ replaced, purchase the new cap according to the
5. Remove the remaining bolts, the pan, and 30,000 miles (48,300km). pressure rating which is specified for your
the gasket or RTV. Discard the gasket. 5. Check the fins of the radiator (or air vehicle.
6. Clean the pan with solvent and dry conditioning condenser, if equipped as such) for Prior to installing the cap, inspect and clean
thoroughly, with compressed air. ^ blockage. the radiator filler neck. If you are reusing the old
7. Remove the strainer and 0-ring seal. cap, clean it thoroughly with clear water. After
turning the cap on, make sure that the arrows on
8. Install new strainer and new 0-ring seal
RADIATOR CAP the cap align with the overflow hose.
locating the strainer against the dipstick stop.
9. Install a new gasket or RTV. Tighten the
pan bolts to 12 ft. lbs. S Before removing the cap. squeeze the upper FLUID RECOMMENDATIONS
t SEE FIG. 53. radiator hose. If it compresses easily (indicating
10. Lower the car. Add about 4 quarts of little or no pressure in the system), the cap may
Dexron®ll transmission fluid. be removed by turning it counterclockwise until The coolant used in any General Motors
11. Start the engine; let it idle. Block the it reaches the stop. If any hissing is noted at this engine must:
wheels and apply the parking brake. point (indicating the release of pressure), wait a. Be a high quality ethylene glycol-based
12. Move the shift lever through the ranges. until the hissing stops before you remove the solution. Do not use alcohol or methanol-
13. With the lever in park check the fluid cap. To completely remove the cap, press based solutions at any time.
level. Add fluid if necessary. downward and turn it counterclockwise. b. Have built-in rust inhibitors.
c. Be designed for year-round use.
Always replace the filter with a d. Offer complete protection for a
new one, don’t attempt to clean the ❖❖ CAUTION minimum of 1 years/30,000 miles
old filter. The transmission fluid (48,300km), without replacement, as long as
currently being used may appear to To avoid personal Injury, DO NOT
ATTEMPT to remove the radiator the proper concentration is maintained.
be darker and have a strong odor. e. Meet G.M. Specification 1825-M (as
This is normal and not a sign of cap while the engine Is hot.
specified on the container). This point is
required maintenance or critical for diesel engines; coolant meeting
transmission failure. other specifications could result in cooling
If the upper radiator hose is hard, pressure is system damage and engine damage due to
indicated within the system. In this case, a overheating.
greater degree of caution should be used in f. Be mixed in the proper proportions:
removing the cap. Cover the radiator cap with a 50% coolant/50% water for gasoline engines;
thick cloth, and while wearing a heavy glove, 64% Coolant/36% water for diesel engines.
carefully turn the cap to the stop. This will allow On diesels, this proportion can be
the pressure to be relieved from the system. accurately attained only when
refilling the system entirely. See
Draining and Refilling.
The use of self-sealing coolants is not
recommended. Also, the use of a coolant
FIG.53 Installing a new pan gasket meeting the above requirements negates the
need for supplemental additives. Use of such
supplemental products is an unnecessary
expense and may cause less than optimum
cooling system performance.
1-44 GENERAL INFORMATION AND MAINTENANCE
cooling system should be completely drained 10. Fill the radiator to the base of the radiator
LEVEL AND CONDITION
and refilled with the proper mixture of coolant filler neck with a 50/50 mixture of coolant/water.
CHECK and water. Many mechanics recommend that Remember, on diesel equipped models, add a
this be done once a year for extra protection gallon of undiluted coolant first, then add the 50/
Any time the hood is raised, check the level ot against corrosion and subsequent overheating. 50 solution.
the coolant in the see-through plastic coolant Though most coolants are labeled permanent,
If only the radiator was drained,
recovery tank. With the engine cold, the coolant this only means that the coolant will retain its
use a 50/50 solution to refill It, then
level should be near the ADD mark on the tank. anti-freezing characteristics. The required rust
check the freezing protection after
At normal engine operating temperature, the inhibitors and other chemicals which were added
the level stabilizes.
level should be at the FULL mark on the bottle. to the coolant during its manufacture will
become less effective over a period of time. The 11. Fill the coolant recovery tank to the
If coolant must be added to the tank, use a 50/50
following procedure covers the factory FULL mark with the 50/50 solution.
mix of coolant/water to adjust the fluid level on
recommended procedure for draining and 12. With the radiator cap still removed, start
models with gasoline engines. On models with
refilling the system. the engine and allow it to idle until the upper
diesel engines, use straight, undiluted coolant to
radiator hose becomes hot, indicating that the
adjust the level in the tank. If you are only replacing the
thermostat has opened.
An inexpensive tester may be purchased to hoses, perform steps 1-3, and 11-
test the freezing protection of the coolant. Follow 13. With the engine still idling, fill the radiator
16 as required.
the instructions provided with the tester. The to the base of the filler neck with the 50/50
1. Remove the radiator cap. solution.
coolant used in models with gasoline engines
2. Raise the front of the vehicle and support 14. Install the radiator cap, being sure to align
should protect to -37°F (-38°C); diesels must
it safely with jackstands. the arrows on the cap with the overflow tube.
have protection to -75°F (-59°C).
3. Open the radiator fitting (located at the 15. Turn the engine Off, check for leakage,
bottom of the radiator) by turning it and double check that the radiator drain is closed
counterclockwise. It may be wise to coat the and the drain plug(s) is tighten.
DRAINING AND REFILLING
fitting with penetrating lubricant before you
attempt to turn it. Allow the coolant to drain from
At least every 2 years or 30,000 miles the radiator. CLEAN RADIATOR OF
(48,300km) - whichever comes first - the
DEBRIS
CAUTION
When draining the coolant, keep In Periodically clean any debris - leaves,
mind that cats and dogs are paper, insects, etc. - from the radiator fins.
attracted by the ethylene glycol Pick the large pieces off by hand. The smaller
antifreeze, and are quite likely to pieces can be washed away with water pressure
drink any that is left In an from a hose.
uncovered container or In puddles Carefully straighten any bent radiator fins with
on the ground. This will prove fatal a pair of needle nose pliers. Be careful - the
in sufficient quantity. Always drain fins are very soft. Don’t wiggle the fins back and
the coolant into a sealable forth too much. Straighten them once and try not
container. Coolant should be to move them again.
reused unless it Is contaminated or
several years old.
FIG.55 Coolant protection can be checked
with a simple float-type tester
4. Remove the drain plug(s) from the engine
block (located on the engine block, above the
engine oil pan) and allow the coolant to drain.
5. Close the radiator drain fitting and reinstall
the engine block plugs.
6. Add clear water to the system until it is
filled.
7. Start the engine and repeat steps 3-6 until
the drained water is almost colorless. Turn the
engine OFF.
8. Allow the system to drain completely and
repeat step 5. Remove the cap from the coolant
recovery tank, leaving the hoses connected to
the cap.
FIG.56 The system should be pressure tested 9. Unbolt and remove the coolant recovery
at least once a year tank, drain it, and flush it with clear water.
Reinstall the tank.
 GENERAL INFORMATION AND MAINTENANCE 1-45

2. Wipe off the master cylinder cover before

you remove it, to prevent contaminating the fluid
with dirt.
On most models, a see-through
reservoir is used, eliminating the
need of removing the cylinder
cover.
3. The cover is snapped into place on the
master cylinder. To remove the cover, just press
FIG. 57a Rll the coolant system recovery tank to between the add and full hot marks with a up on the two tabs on the side of the cover, tilt
mixture of anti-freeze and water it, then remove it. Be careful not to damage the
rubber seal under the cover.

FLUSHING AND CLEANING

THE SYSTEM

Several aftermarket radiator flushing and

cleaning kits can be purchased at your local auto
parts store. It is recommended that the radiator
be cleaned and flushed of sludge and any rust
build-up once a year. Manufacturers directions
for proper use, and safety precautions, come in
each kit.

Master Cylinder

FLUID RECOMMENDATIONS

Only extra-heavy duty fluid meeting DOT 3

specifications must be used. Using an inferior
fluid will result in component damage and
reduced braking capabilities.

LEVEL CHECK

About once a month, the fluid level in the

master cylinder should be checked.
FIG. 58a Before removing the cap to the master cylinder clean the area so no dirt can fall into
1. Park the car on a level surface, turn it off
and raise the hood. the fluid
1-46 GENERAL INFORMATION AND MAINTENANCE
CAUTION
Iff you value the paint on your car,
don’t spill brake fluid on the finish.
Brake fluid destroys paint.

Don’t leave the cover off of the

master cylinder or the cap off of the
brake fluid container any longer
than necessary.
4. The fluid level in each master cylinder
reservoir should be V4 in. (6mm) below the
lowest edge of the filler opening. Use fresh brake
fluid to adjust the level if necessary.
It is normal for the master cylinder fluid level
to drop as the brake linings wear - Vs in.
(3mm) drop about every 10,000 miles
(16,100km). If the fluid level is constantly low,
the system should be checked for leaks.
5. Carefully seat the cover seal into the cover,
then snap the cover into place on the master
cylinder. Be sure that all four snaps latch
completely.

Power Steering Pump

FLUID RECOMMENDATIONS
FIG. 59b Proper level for power steering fluid is between the lines on the dipstick.
When adding power steering fluid use G.M. Always check the power steering fluid warm
part #1050017 or its equal. Dexron®ll automatic
transmission fluid is an acceptable substitute.
LEVEL CHECK

The power steering fluid level should be

checked at every oil change. On models with
gasoline engines, the power steering pump and
reservoir are integrated into one unit bolted to the
front of the engine. On models with diesel
engines, the pump is mounted on the engine, and
"HOT" a separate, translucent reservoir is attached to
the firewall in the engine compartment.
To check the fluid level, run the engine until it
reaches normal operating temperature, then turn
"COLD" the engine off. Remove the reservoir filler cap
and check the oil level on the dipstick. The fluid
"ADD" level must be between the HOT and COLD marks
on the filler cap indicator. Add power steering
fluid as required then reinstall the cap.

FIG.59 Power steering fluid dipstick and fill cap

FIG. 59c The ball joints and tierods usually
have grease fittings
 GENERAL INFORMATION AND MAINTENANCE 1-47
chassis greasing, which should meet G.M.
Steering Gear specification 6031M. The automatic transaxle Rear Wheel Bearings
linkage should be lubricated with clean engine
oil. The bearing assembly used on these vehicles
doesn’t need normal grease service, the
FLUID RECOMMENDATIONS following procedures can be used if a problem
AND LEVEL CHECK with the rear bearing assembly is suspected.
Body Lubrication
Clean the latch surfaces and apply clean
All models use integral rack and pinion power REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
engine oil to the latch pilot bolts and the spring
steering. The power steering pump delivers
anchor. Use the engine oil to lubricate the hood
hydraulic pressure through two hoses to the
hinges as well. Use a chassis grease to lubricate 1. Raise and support the car on a hoist.
steering gear itself. Refer to the power steering
all the pivot points in the latch release
pump fluid recommendation and level check 2. Remove the wheel and brake drum.
mechanism.
procedures above to check the steering gear
fluid level.
CAUTION
DOOR HINGES
Do not hammer on the brake drum
Chassis Greasing as damage to the bearing could
The gas tank filler door, car door, and rear result.
Front Suspension and Steering hatch or trunk lid hinges should be wiped clean
Linkage and lubricated with clean engine oil. Silicone
spray also works well on these parts, but must 3. Remove the hub and bearing assembly to
These parts should be greased every 12 rear axle attaching bolts and remove the rear
be applied more often. Use engine oil to lubricate
months or 7,500 miles (12,000km) with an EP the trunk or hatch lock mechanism and the lock axle.
grease meeting G.M. specification 6031M. bolt and striker. The door lock cylinders can be
If you choose to do this job yourself, you will The bolts which attach the hub
lubricated easily with a shot of silicone spray or and bearing assembly also support
need to purchase a hand operated grease gun, if one of the many dry penetrating lubricants the brake assembly. When
you do not own one already, and a long flexible commercially available. removing these bolts, support the
extension hose to reach the various grease
fittings. You will also need a cartridge of the brake assembly with a wire or other
means. Do not let the brake line
appropriate grease.
PARKING BRAKE LINKAGE support the brake assembly.
Press the fitting of the grease gun hose onto
the grease fitting of the suspension or steering 4. Install the hub and bearing assembly to the
linkage component. Pump a few shots of grease Use chassis grease on the parking brake rear axle and torque the hub and bearing bolts to
into the fitting, until the rubber boot on the joint cable where is contacts the guides, links, levers, 45 ft. lbs.
begins to expand, indicating that the joint is full. and pulleys. The grease should be a water 5. Install the brake drum, tire and wheel
Remove the gun from the fitting. Be careful not to resistant one for durability under the car. assembly and lower the car.
overfill the joints, which will rupture the rubber
boots, allowing the entry of dirt. You can keep
the grease fittings clean by covering them with a ACCELERATOR LINKAGE ADJUSTMENT
small square of tin foil.
Transaxle Shift Linkage Lubricate the carburetor stud, carburetor There is no necessary adjustment to the rear
Lubricate the manual transaxle shift linkage lever, and the accelerator pedal lever at the wheel bearing and hub assembly.
contact points with the EP grease used for support inside the car with clean engine oil.

TRAILER TOWING

Your car is designed and intended to be used PUSHING AND TOWING normally operable, your car may be towed on al!
mainly to carry people. Towing a trailer will affect four wheels. If this is done, don’t exceed 35 mph
handling, durability and economy. or travel further than 50 miles (80km). The
Your safety and satisfaction depend upon DO NOT attempt to start your car by pushing steering wheel must be unlocked, the transaxle
proper use and correct equipment. You should or towing as damage to the catalytic convertor or in Neutral, and the parking brake released. Never
also avoid overloads and other abusive use. other components may result. If the battery is attach towing equipment to the bumpers or
Information on trailer towing ability, special weak, the vehicle may be jump started, using the bumper brackets - the equipment must be
equipment required and optional equipment procedure found after this section. attached to the main structural members of the
available should be obtained from your dealer. As long as the driveline and steering are car.
1-48 GENERAL INFORMATION AND MAINTENANCE

SUSPENSION CONTACT HOIST

WHEN USING FLOOR JACK, LIFT WHEN USING FLOOR JACK, LIFT
ON CENTER OF FRONT CROSSMEMBER ON REAR SUSPENSION AXLE

FIG.60 Proper lifting and jacking locations

Remember that there will be no If the car is to be towed by a wrecker,

power assist for brakes and instructions supplied by the wrecker ❖❖ CAUTION
steering with the engine Off. Also, manufacturer should be followed. Because of the Don’t exceed the speed or distance
be sure to check Into state and front wheel drive, towing on the rear wheels is limits which are outlined here.
local towing laws before flat- preferred. If absolutely necessary, the car may Severe transaxle damage could
towing your vehicle. be towed on the front wheels as long as the result.
speed does not exceed 25 mph and the towing
distance does not exceed 10 miles (16km).

JACKING

•.NEVER start or run the engine while the car

Precautions is supported by only a jack. Instructions (Factory
•.ALWAYS secure the spare tire, jack, etc., to
•NEVER use the jack supplied with the vehicle
prevent loose parts from causing personal injury
supplied Jack Only)
for anything but changing tire and wheel during hard braking.
assemblies. Please refer to the accompanying illustrations
•.NEVER crawl underneath the vehicle while it for detailed jacking instructions and spare tire/
is supported by the factory supplied jack. jack stowage instructions.
 GENERAL INFORMATION AND MAINTENANCE 1-49
The accompanying illustrations depict the crossmember or the center of the rear axle bar
CAUTION preferred jacking and jack stand support points can be used as jacking points in addition to the
Be especially careful not to damage underneath the vehicle. When using a floor jack, previous hoisting points.
the catalytic convertor when either the center of the engine cradle
jacking from the floor side rails.

FIG. 63 The proper safety stand location for the front of car. Be careful FIG. 64 The proper safety stand location for the rear of car. Be careful
take stand doesn’t touch painted body panel take stand doesn’t touch painted body panel
1-50 GENERAL INFORMATION AND MAINTENANCE
PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE CHART

The services shown in this schedule up to

When to Perform 60,000 miles are to be performed after
Item Miles or Months, Whichever Occurs First 60,000 miles at the same intervals
No. To Be Serviced Miles (000) 7.5 15 22.5 30 37.5 45 52.5 60
1 Engine Oil Change Every 7,500 Miles or • • • • • • • •
12 Months
Oil Filter Change At First and Every Other Oil Change or 12 • • • •
Months
2 Chassis Lubrication Every oil change • • • • • • • •
3 Carburetor Choke and Hoses Inspection At 6 Months or 7,500 Miles and at- • • •
60,000 Miles
4 Carburetor or T.B.I. Mounting Bolt At 6 Months or 7,500 Miles and at • •
Torque Check 60,000 Miles
5 Engine Idle Speed Adjustment At 6 Months or 7,500 Miles and at • •
60.000 Miles
6 Engine Accessory Drive Belts Inspection Every 24 Months or 30.000 Miles • •
7 Cooling System Service Every 24 Months or 30,000 Miles • •
8 Front Wheel Bearing Repack Every 30.000 Miles • •
9 Transmission Service 30,000 Miles • •
10 Vacuum Advance System Inspection Check at 6 Months or 7,500 Miles, then at • • • •
30,000 Miles, and then at 15,000 Mile
intervals.
11 Spark Plugs and Wire Service Every 30,000 Miles • •
12 PCV System Inspection Every 30,000 Miles • •
13 ERG System Check Every 30,000 Miles • •
14 Air Cleaner and PCV Filter Replacement Every 30,000 Miles • •
15 Engine Timing Check Every 30,000 Miles • •
16 Fuel Tank, Cap and Lines Inspection Every 24 Months or 30,000 Miles • •
17 Early Fuel Evaporation System Inspection At 7,500 Miles and at 30,000 Miles then at • • •
30.000 Mile intervals.
18 Evaporative Control System Inspection Every 30,000 Miles • •
19 Fuel Filter Replacement Every 30,000 Miles • •
20 Valve Lash Adjustment Every 15.000 Miles • • • •
21 Thermostatically Controlled Air Cleaner Every 30,000 Miles • •
Inspection
 GENERAL INFORMATION AND MAINTENANCE 1-51
CAPACITIES
Engine
Engine Crankcase Transmission Fuel Cooling
Engine Displacement with __ Tank System
Year Model VIN cu. in. (liter) filter 4 5 Auto. (gals.) (qts.)
1982 Celebrity R 151 (2.5) 3.5 — — 10© 16.0 9.6
Celebrity X 173(2.8) 4.5 — — 10© 16.0 12.5
Celebrity T 260 (4.3) 6.5 — — 10 16.0 13.1
Century R 151 (2.5) 3.5 6 6 8© 15.7 9.7®
Century X 173(2.8) 4.5 — — 10© 16.0 12.5
Cutlass Ciera R 151 (2.5) 3.5 6 6 8© 15.7 9.5
Cutlass Ciera X 173(2.8) 4.5 6 6 8© 16.5 11.7
6000 R 151 (2.5) 3.5 6 — 8© 15.7 9.4
6000 X 173(2.8) 4.5 6 — 8© 16.4 11.3
1983 Celebrity R 151 (2.5) 3.5 — — 10© 16.0 9.6
Celebrity 5 151 (2.5) 3.5 — — 10© 16.0 9.6
Celebrity X 173(2.8) 4.5 — — 10© 16.0 12.5
Celebrity T, 260 (4.3) 6.5 — — 10© 16.0 13.1
Century R 151(2.5) 3.5 6 6 8© 15.7 9.7®
Century X 173(2.8) 4.5 — — 10© 16.0 12.5
Century E 183 (3.0) 4.5 6 6 8© 15.7 13.1
Century T 260 (4.3) 6.5 — — 8© 16.4 12.6
Cutlass Ciera R 151 (2.5) 3.5 6 6 8© 15.7 9.5
Cutlass Ciera X 173 (2.8) 4.5 6 6 8© 16.5 11.7
Cutlass Ciera E 183 (3.0) 4.5 6 6 8© 15.7 12.5
Cutlass Ciera T 260 (4.3) 6.5 — — 8© 16.5 13.2
6000 R 151 (2.5) 3.5 6 — 8© 15.7 9.4
6000 X 173(2.8) 4.5 6 — 8© 16.4 11.3
6000 T 260 (4.3) 6.5 — — 8© 16.5 13.2
1984 Celebrity R 151 (2.5) 3.5 — — 10 16.0 9.6
Celebrity 5 151 (2.5) 3.5 — — 10 16.0 9.6
Celebrity X 173(2.8) 4.5 — — 10 16.0 12.5
Celebrity T 260 (4.3) 6.5 — — 10 16.0 13.1
Century R 151 (2.5) 3.5 6 6 8© 15.7 9.7©
Century X 173(2.8) 4.5 — — 10 16.4 12.5
Century E 183 (3.0) 4.5 6 6 8© 15.7 13.1
Century 3 231 (3.8) 4.5 6 6 8© 16.6® 12.6
Century T 260 (4.3) 6.5 — — 8© 16.4 12.6
Cutlass Ciera R 151 (2.5) 3.5 6 6 © 15.7 9.5
Cutlass Ciera 3 231 (3.8) 4.5 6 6 © 15.7 12.8
Cutlass Ciera E 183 (3.0) 4.5 6 6 © 15.7 12.8
Cutlass Ciera T 260 (4.3) 6.5 — — © 16.6 12.8
6000 R 151 (2.5) 3.5 6 — 8© 15.7 9.4
6000 X 173(2.8) 4.5 6 — 8© 16.4 11.3
6000 Z 173(2.8) 4.5 6 — 8© 16.4 11.3
6000 T 260 (4.3) 6.5 — — © 16.5 13.2
1-52 GENERAL INFORMATION AND MAINTENANCE
CAPACITIES
Engine
Engine Crankcase Transmission Fuel Cooling
Engine Displacement with (P*s.)_ Tank System
Year Model VIN cu. in. (liter) filter 4 5 Auto. (gals.) (qts.)
1985 Celebrity R 151 (2.5) 3.5 6 — © 15.7 9.7
Celebrity X 173 (2.8) 4.5 6 — © 16.4 12.6
Celebrity W 173(2.8) 4.5 6 — © 15.7 12.6
Celebrity T 260 (4.3) 6.5 — — © 16.6 13.1
Century R 151 (2.5) 3.5 6 6 © 15.7 9.7®
Century E 183 (3.0) 4.5 6 6 © 15.7 13.1
Century 3 231 (3.8) 4.5 6 6 © 16.6 12.6
Century T 260 (4.3) 6.5 — — © 16.4 12.6
Cutlass Ciera R 151 (2.5) 3.5 6 6 © 15.7 9.5
Cutlass Ciera 3 231 (3.8) 4.5 6 6 © 15.7 12.8
Cutlass Ciera E 183 (3.0) 4.5 6 6 © 15.7 12.8
Cutlass Ciera T 260 (4.3) 6.5 — — © 16.6 12.8
6000 R 151 (2.5) 3.5 6 — © 15.7 9.4
6000 X 173(2.8) 4.5 6 — © 16.4 11.3
6000 Z 173(2.8) 4.5 6 — © 16.4 11.3
6000 T 260 (4.3) 6.5 — — © 16.5 13.2
1986 Celebrity R 151 (2.5) 3.5 6 — © 15.7 9.6
Celebrity X 173(2.8) 4.5 6 — © 16.4 12.6
Celebrity W 173(2.8) 4.5 6 — © 15.7® 12.6
Century R 151 (2.5) 3.5 6 6 © 16.6© 9.7
Century X 173(2.8) 4.5 6 6 © 16.6® 11.8
Century 3 231 (3.8) 4.5 6 6 © 16.6® 12.6
Cutlass Ciera R 151 (2.5) 3.5 6 6 © 15.7 9.7
Cutlass Ciera X 173(2.8) 4.5 6 6 © 16.4 12.7
Cutlass Ciera W 173(2.8) 4.5 6 6 © 15.7 12.7
Cutlass Ciera 3 231 (3.8) 4.5 6 6 © 15.7 12.7
Cutlass Ciera B 231 (3.8) 4.5 6 6 © 15.7 12.7
6000 R 151 (2.5) 3.5 — — © 15.7 9.7
6000 X 173(2.8) 4.5 — — © 16.4 12.7
6000 W 173(2.8) 4.5 — — © 16.4 12.7
1987 Celebrity R 151 (2.5) 3.5 6 — © 15.7 9.6
Celebrity W 173(2.8) 4.5 6 — © 15.7 12.6
Century R 151 (2.5) 3.5 — — © 15.5 9.7©
Century W 173(2.8) 4.0 — — © 15.5 12.5
Century 3 231 (3.8) 4.5 — — © 15.5 12.6
Cutlass Ciera R 151 (2.5) 3.5 6 6 © 15.7 12.0
Cutlass Ciera W 173(2.8) 4.5 6 6 © 15.7 13.5
Cutlass Ciera 3 ’ 231 (3.8) 4.5 6 6 © 15.7 12.7
6000 R 151 (2.5) 3.5 — 4 © 15.7 9.7©
6000 W 173(2.8) 4.5 — 4 © 16.4 12.9
 GENERAL INFORMATION AND MAINTENANCE 1-53
CAPACITIES
Engine
Engine Crankcase Transmission Fuel Cooling
Engine Displacement with (Pts.) Tank System
Year Model VIN cu. in. (liter) filter 4 5 Auto. (gals.) (qts.)
1988 Celebrity R 151 (2.5) 3.5 — 4 © 15.7 9.7©
Celebrity W 173(2.8) 4.0 — 4 © 15.7 13.5
Century R 151 (2.5) 3.5 — — © 15.7 9.7©
Century W 173(2.8) 4.5 — — © 15.7 13.5
Century 3 231 (3.8) 4.5 — — © 15.7 12.7
Cutlass Ciera R 151 (2.5) 3.5 6 6 © 15.7 12.0
Cutlass Ciera W 173(2.8) 4.5 6 6 © 15.7 13.5
Cutlass Ciera 3 231 (3.8) 4.5 6 6 © 15.7 12.7
6000 R 151 (2.5) 4.5 — — © 15.7 9.7©
6000 W 173(2.8) 4.5 — — © 15.7 13.5
1989 Celebrity R 151 (2.5) 4.5 — — © 15.7 9.7
Celebrity W 173(2.8) 4.5 — — © 15.7 13.2
Century R 151 (2.5) 4.5 — — © 15.7 9.7
Century W 173(2.8) 4.5 — — © 15.7 13.2
Century N 204 (3.3) 4.5 — — © 15.7 15.7
Cutlass Ciera R 151 (2.5) 4.5 — — © 15.7 9.7
Cutlass Ciera W 173(2.8) 4.5 — — © 15.7 13.2
Cutlass Ciera N 204 (3.3) 4.5 — — © 15.7 12.7
6000 R 151 (2.5) 4.5 — — © 15.7 9.7
6000 W 173(2.8) 4.5 — — © 15.7 13.2
6000 T 192 (3.1) 4.5 — — © 15.7 12.6
1990 Celebrity R 151 (2.5) 4.5 — — © 15.7 9.7
Celebrity T 192 (3.1) 4.5 — — © 15.7 12.8
Century R 151 (2.5) 4.5 — — © 15.7 9.7
Century N 204 (3.3) 4.5 — — © 15.7 15.7
Cutlass R 151 (2.5) 4.5 — — © 15.7 9.7
Cutlass N 204 (3.3) 4.5 — — © 15.7 13.2
6000 R 151 (2.5) 4.5 — — © 15.7 9.7
6000 T 192(3.1) 4.5 — — © 15.7 12.6
1991 Century R 151 (2.5) 4.5 — — © 15.7 9.7
Century N 204 (3.3) 4.5 — — © 15.7 15.7
Cutlass R 151 (2.5) 4.5 — — © 15.7 9.7
Cutlass N 204 (3.3) 4.5 — — © 15.7 13.2
6000 R 151 (2.5) 4.5 — - — © 15.7 9.7
6000 T 192(3.1) 4.5 — — © 15.7 12.6
1992 Century R 151 (2.5) 4.5 — — © 15.7 9.7
Century N 204 (3.3) 4.5 — — © 15.7 15.7
Cutlass R 151 (2.5) 4.5 — — © 15.7 9.7
Cutlass N 204 (3.3) 4.5 — — © 15.7 13.2
6000 R 151 (2.5) 4.5 — — © 15.7 9.7
6000 T 192 (3.1) 4.5 — — © 15.7 12.6
CD 125C 8pts—Overhaul 12pts;
440T4—13pts—Overhaul 20pts.
© 12 qts. with heavy duty system
© Wagon 15.7 gals.
1-54 GENERAL INFORMATION AND MAINTENANCE
Troubleshooting Basic Air Conditioning Problems
Problem Cause Solution

There's little or no air coming from • The A/C fuse is blown • Check and/or replace fuse
the vents (and you're sure it’s on) • Broken or loose wires or connec¬ • Check and/or repair connections
tions
• The on/off switch is defective • Replace switch

The air coming from the vents is not • Windows and air vent wings open • Close windows and vent wings
cool enough • The compressor belt is slipping • Tighten or replace compressor belt
• Heater is on • Shut heater off
• Condenser is clogged with debris • Clean the condenser
• Refrigerant has escaped through a • Check system
leak in the system
• Receiver/drier is plugged • Service system
The air has an odor • Vacuum system is disrupted • Have the system checked/repaired
• Odor producing substances on the • Clean the evaporator case
evaporator case
• Condensation has collected in the • Clean the evaporator housing
bottom of the evaporator drains
housing
System is noisy or vibrating • Compressor belt or mountings • Tighten or replace belt; tighten
loose mounting bolts
• Air in the system • Have the system serviced
Sight glass condition
Constant bubbles, foam or oil • Undercharged system • Charge the system
streaks
Clear sight glass, but no cold air • No refrigerant at all • Check and charge the system
Clear sight glass, but air is cold • System is OK
Clouded with milky fluid • Receiver drier is leaking dessicant • Have system checked
Large difference in temperature of • System undercharged • Charge and leak test the system
lines
Compressor noise • Broken valves • Replace the valve plate
• Overcharged • Discharge, evacuate and install the
correct charge
• Incorrect oil level • Isolate the compressor and check
the oil level. Correct as neces¬
sary.
• Piston slap • Replace the compressor
• Broken rings • Replace the compressor
• Drive belt pulley bolts are loose • Tighten with the correct torque
specification
Excessive vibration • Incorrect belt tension • Adjust the belt tension
• Clutch loose • Tighten the clutch
• Overcharged • Discharge, evacuate and install the
correct charge
• Pulley is misaligned • Align the pulley
Condensation dripping in the • Drain hose plugged or improperly • Clean the drain hose and check for
passenger compartment positioned proper installation
• Insulation removed or improperly • Replace the insulation on the
installed expansion valve and hoses
 GENERAL INFORMATION AND MAINTENANCE 1-55
Troubleshooting Basic Air Conditioning Problems (cont.)
Problem Cause Solution

Frozen evaporator coil • Faulty thermostat • Replace the thermostat

• Thermostat capillary tube improp¬ • Install the capillary tube correctly
erly installed
• Thermostat not adjusted properly • Adjust the thermostat
Low side low—high side low • System refrigerant is low • Evacuate, leak test and charge the
system .
• Expansion valve is restricted • Replace the expansion valve

Low side high—high side low • Internal leak in the compressor— * Remove the compressor cylinder
worn head and inspect the compres¬
sor. Replace the valve plate as¬
sembly if necessary. If the
compressor pistons, rings or

Low side high—high side low (cont.) cylinders are excessively worn
or scored replace the compres-
oUl
• Cylinder head gasket is leaking • Install a replacement cylinder head
- gasket
• Expansion valve is defective • Replace the expansion valve
• Drive belt slipping • Adjust the belt tension

Low side high—high side high • Condenser fins obstructed • Clean the condenser fins
• Air in the system • Evacuate, leak test and charge the
system
• Expansion valve is defective • Replace the expansion valve
• Loose or worn fan belts • Adjust or replace the belts as nec¬
essary

Low side low—high side high • Expansion valve is defective • Replace the expansion valve
• Restriction in the refrigerant hose • Check the hose for kinks—replace
if necessary

Low side low—high side high • Restriction in the receiver/drier • Replace the receiver/drier
• Restriction in the condenser • Replace the condenser

Low side and high normal . Air in the system . Evacuate, leak test and charge the
(inadequate cooling) system
• Moisture in the system • Evacuate, leak test and charge the
system
1-56 GENERAL INFORMATION AND MAINTENANCE
Troubleshooting Basic Wheel Problems
Problem Cause Solution

The car’s front end vibrates at high • The wheels are out of balance • Have wheels balanced
speed • Wheels are out of alignment • Have wheel alignment
checked/adjusted

Car pulls to either side • Wheels are out of alignment • Have wheel alignment
checked/adjusted
• Unequal tire pressure • Check/adjust tire pressure
• Different size tires or wheels • Change tires or wheels to same
size

The car's wheel(s) wobbles • Loose wheel lug nuts • Tighten wheel lug nuts
• Wheels out of balance • Have tires balanced
• Damaged wheel • Raise car and spin the wheel. If
the wheel is bent, it should be
replaced
• Wheels are out of alignment • Have wheel alignment
checked/adjusted
• Worn or damaged ball joint • Check ball joints
• Excessive play in the steering link¬ • Check steering linkage
age (usually due to worn parts)
• Defective shock absorber • Check shock absorbers

Tires wear unevenly or prematurely • Incorrect wheel size • Check if wheel and tire size are
compatible
• Wheels are out of balance • Have wheels balanced
• Wheels are out of alignment • Have wheel alignment
checked/adjusted

Troubleshooting Basic Tire Problems

Problem Cause Solution

The car’s front end vibrates at high • Wheels out of balance • Have wheels balanced
speeds and the steering wheel • Front end needs aligning • Have front end alignment checked
shakes

The car pulls to one side while • Unequal tire pressure (car will • Check/adjust tire pressure
cruising usually pull to the low side)
• Mismatched tires • Be sure tires are of the same type
and size
• Front end needs aligning • Have front end alignment checked
Abnormal, excessive or uneven tire • Infrequent tire rotation • Rotate tires more frequently to
wear equalize wear
• Improper tire pressure • Check/adjust pressure
See "How to Read Tire Wear”
• Sudden stops/starts or high speed • Correct driving habits
on curves
Tire squeals • Improper tire pressure • Check/adjust tire pressure
• Front end needs aligning • Have front end alignment checked
 GENERAL INFORMATION AND MAINTENANCE 1-57
Tire Size Comparison Chart
“Letter” sizes inch Sizes Metric-inch Sizes
“60 Series" “70 Series" "78 Series” 1965-77 “60 Series” “70 Series” “80 Series”

5.50-12, 5.60-12 165/60-12 165/70-12 155-12

Y78-12 6.00-12
W78-13 5.20-13 165/60-13 145/70-13 135-13
• Y78-13 5.60-13 175/60-13 155/70-13 145-13
6.15-13 185/60-13 165/70-13 155-13, PI 55/80-13
A60-13 A70-13 A78-13 6.40-13 195/60-13 175/70-13 165-13
B60-13 B70-13 B78-13 6.70-13 205/60-13 185/70-13 175-13
6.90-13
C60-13 C70-13 C78-13 7.00-13 215/60-13 195/70-13 185-13
D60-13 D70-13 D78-13 7.25-13
E60-13 E70-13 E78-13 7.75-13 195-13
5.20-14 165/60-14 145/70-14 135-14
5.60-14 175/60-14 155/70-14 145-14
5.90-14
A60-14 A70-14 A78-14 6.15-14 185/60-14 165/70-14 155-14
B70-14 ' B78-14 6.45-14 195/60-14 175/70-14 165-14
C70-14 C78-14 6.95-14 205/60-14 185/70-14 175-14
D60-14 D70-14 D78-14
E60-14 E70-14 E78-14 7.35-14 215/60-14 195/70-14 185-14
F60-14 F70-14 F78-14, F83-14 7.75-14 225/60-14 200/70-14 195-14
G60-14 G70-14 G77-14, G78-14 8.25-14 235/60-14 205/70-14 205-14
H60-14 H70-14 H78-14 8.55-14 245/60-14 215/70-14 215-14
J60-14 J70-14 J78-14 8.85-14 255/60-14 225/70-14 225-14
L60-14 L70-14 9.15-14 265/60-14 235/70-14

A70-15 A78-15 5.60-15 185/60-15 165/70-15 155-15

B60-15 B70-15 B78-15 6.35-15 195/60-15 175/70-15 165-15
C60-15 C70-15 C78-15 6.85-15 205/60-15 185/70-15 175-15
D70-15 D78-15
E60-15 E70-15 E78-15 7.35-15 215/60-15 195/70-15 185-15
F60-15 F70-15 F78-15 7.75-15 225/60-15 205/70-15 195-15
G60-15 G70-15 G78-15 8.15-15/8.25-15 235/60-15 215/70-15 205-15
H60-15 H70-15 H78-15 8.45-15/8.55-15 245/60-15 225/70-15 215-15
J60-15 J70-15 J78-15 8.85-15/8.90-15 255/60-15 235/70-15 225-15
K70-15 9.00-15 265/60-15 245/70-15 230-15
L60-15 L70-15 L78-15, L84-15 9.15-15 235-15
M70-15 M78-15 255-15
N78-15
NOTE: Every size tire is not listed and many size comaprisons are approximate, based on load ratings. Wider tires than those supplied new
with the vehicle should always be checked for clearance
1-58 GENERAL INFORMATION AND MAINTENANCE

TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
Component English Metric
Automatic Transaxle
Oil pan retaining nuts
1982-88: 15 ft. lbs 20 Nm
1989-92: 8 ft. lbs. 11 Nm
Fuel Line Fittings: 22 ft. lbs. 30 Nm
Oil Pan Plug
2.5L engine: 25 ft. lbs. 34 Nm
3.3L engine: 30 ft. lbs. 40 Nm
3.8L engine: 30 ft. lbs. 40 Nm
Except above:
M6 bolt: 8 ft. lbs. 11 Nm
M8 bolt: 18 ft. lbs. 25 Nm
Oil Filter Access Plug
2.5L engine: Hand tighten + Va turn Hand tighten + Va
turn
Belt tensioner bolt
2.5L engine: 37 ft. lbs. 50 Nm
2.8L engine: 40 ft. lbs. 54 Nm
3.1 L engine: 40 ft. lbs. 54 Nm
3.3L engine: 38 ft. lbs. 52 Nm
Spark plugs:
Except 2.8L carburated 20 ft. lbs. 27 Nm
2.8L carburated 15 ft. lbs. 17 Nm
Starter through bolts: 32 ft. lbs. 43 Nm
Wheel lug nuts: 100 ft. lbs. 138 Nm
CARBURETOR ADJUSTMENTS 2-26
CRANKSHAFT SENSOR 2-21
DISTRIBUTOR
Service 2-15
Testing 2-15
DISTRIBUTORLESS IGNITION
Service 2-20
DIESEL IDLE SPEED 2-26
ELECTRONIC IGNITION 2-8
FIRING ORDERS 2-6
IDLE SPEED AND MIXTURE
ADJUSTMENT 2-25
IGNITION TIMING 2-23
SPARKPLUGS 2-3
SPARK PLUG DIAGNOSIS 2-27
SPARK PLUG WIRES 2-6
SPECIFICATIONS CHARTS 2-2
TIMING 2-23
TROUBLE CODES
Accessing codes 2-12
Clearing codes 2-12
TUNE-UP
Idle speed and mixture 2-25
Ignition Timing 2-23
Procedures 2-3
Spark plugs 2-3
Spark plug wires 2-6
Specifications 2-2
Troubleshooting 2-11
Valve lash adjustment 2-25
WIRING
Spark plug 2-6

Electronic Ignition 2-4

Firing Orders 2-6
Idle Speed and
Mixture Adjustment 2-25
Ignition Timing 2-23
Tune-up Charts 2-2
Valve Lash Adjustment 2-25
2-2 ENGINE PERFORMANCE AND TUNE-UP
GASOLINE ENGINE TUNE-UP SPECIFICATIONS
Ignition Idle
Engine Spark Plugs Timing Fuel Speed Valve
Engine Displacement Gap (deg.) Pump (rpm) Clearance
Year VIN cu. in. (liter) (in.) MT AT (psi) MT AT In. Ex.
1982 R 4-151 (2.5) 0.060 8B 8B 6.0-8.0 950 750 Hyd. Hyd.
X 6-173(2.8) 0.045 10B 10B 6.0-7.5 800 600 Hyd. Hyd.
Z© 6-173(2.8) 0.045 6B 10B 6.0-7.5 850® 750 Hyd. Hyd.
E 6-181 (3.0) 0.080 — 15B 6.0-8.0 — © Hyd. Hyd.
1983 R 4-151 (2.5) 0.060 8B 8B 6.0-8.0 950 750 Hyd. Hyd.
X 6-173(2.8) 0.045 10B 10B 6.0-7.5 800 600 Hyd. Hyd.
Z© 6-173(2.8) 0.045 6B 10B 6.0-7.5 850® 750 Hyd. Hyd.
E 6-181 (3.0) 0.080 — 15B 6.0-8.0 — © Hyd. Hyd.
1984 R 4-151 (2.5) 0.060 8B 8B 6.0-8.0 950 750 Hyd. Hyd.
X 6-173(2.8) 0.045 10B 10B 6.0-7.5 800 600 Hyd. Hyd.
Z© 6-173(2.8) 0.045 6B 10B 6.0-7.5 850® 750 Hyd. Hyd.
E 6-181 (3.0) 0.080 — 15B 6.0-8.0 — © Hyd. Hyd.
1985 R 4-151 (2.5) 0.060 © ©. 6.0-7.0 © © Hyd. Hyd.
X 6-173(2.8) 0.045 © © 6.0-7.0 © © Hyd. Hyd.
W 6-173(2.8) 0.045 © © 9.0-13.0 © © Hyd. Hyd.
E 6-181 (3.0) 0.060 © © 4.0-6.5 © © Hyd. Hyd.
3 6-231 (3.8) 0.080 © © 34.0-40.0 © © Hyd. Hyd.
1986 R 4-151 (2.5) 0.060 © © 6.0-7.0 © © Hyd. Hyd.
X 6-173(2.8) 0.045 © © 6.0-7.0 © © Hyd. Hyd.
W 6-173(2.8) 0.045 © © 40.0-46.0 © © Hyd. Hyd.
3 6-231 (3.8) 0.080 © © 34.0-40.0 © © Hyd. Hyd.
B 6-231 (3.8) 0.045 © © 34.0-40.0 © © Hyd. Hyd.
1987 R 4-151 (2.5) 0.060 © © 6.0-7.0 © © Hyd. Hyd.
W 6-173(2.8) 0.045 © © 40.0-46.0 © © Hyd. Hyd.
3 6-231 (3.8) 0.080 © © 34.0-40.0 © © Hyd. Hyd.
1988 R 4-151 (2.5) 0.060 © © 6.0-7.0 © © Hyd. Hyd.
W 6-173(2.8) 0.045 © © 40.0-46.0 © © Hyd. Hyd.
3 6-231 (3.8) 0.080 © © 34.0-40.0 © © Hyd. Hyd.
1989 R 4-151 (2.5) 0.060 © © 6.0-7.0 © © Hyd. Hyd.
W 6-173(2.8) 0.045 © © 40.0-46.0 © © Hyd. Hyd.
T 6-192 (3.1) 0.045 © © 34.0-47.0 © © Hyd. Hyd.
N 6-204 (3.3) 0.060 © © 37.0-43.0 © © Hyd. Hyd.
1990 R 4-151 (2.5) 0.060 © © 6.0-7.0 © © Hyd. Hyd.
T 6-192 (3.1) 0.045 © © 34.0-47.0 © © Hyd. Hyd.
N 6-204 (3.3) 0.060 © © 41.0-47.0 © © Hyd. Hyd.
1991 R 4-151 (2.5) 0.060 © © 9.0-13.0 © . © Hyd. Hyd.
T 6-192 (3.1) 0.045 © © 40.5-47.0 © © Hyd. Hyd.
N 6-204 (3.3) 0.060 © © 41.0-47.0 © © Hyd. Hyd.
 ENGINE PERFORMANCE AND TUNE-UP 2-3
GASOLINE ENGINE TUNE-UP SPECIFICATIONS
Ignition Idle
Engine Spark Plugs Timing Fuel Speed Valve
Engine Displacement Gap (deg.) Pump (rpm) Clearance
Year VIN cu. in. (liter) (in.) MT AT (psi) MT AT In. Ex.
1992 R 4-151 (2.5) 0.060 © © 9.0-13.0 © © Hyd. Hyd.
T 6-192 (3.1) 0.045 © © 40.5-47.0 © © Hyd. Hyd.
N 6-204 (3.3) 0.060 © © 41.0-47.0 © © Hyd. Hyd.
NOTE: The lowest cylinder pressure should be within 75% of the highest cylinder pressure reading. For example, if the highest cylinder is 134 psi, the lowest
should be 101. Engine should be at normal operating temperature with throttle valve in the wide open position.
The underhood specifications sticker often reflects tune-up specification changes in production. Sticker figures must be used if they disagree with those in this chart.
© High Output
© With A/C: 900
© California: 750
© Refer to underhood specifications sticker
© See text

DIESEL ENGINE TUNE-UP SPECIFICATIONS

Injection
Intake Injection Nozzle Cranking
Engine Valve Clearance Valve Pump Pressure Compression
Engine Displacement Intake Exhaust Opens Setting (psi) Idle Speed Pressure
Year VIN cu. in. (liter) (in.) (in.) (deg.) (deg.) New Used (rpm) (psi)
1983 T 6-263 (4.3) Hyd. Hyd. 16 © 1000 850 650 300
1984 T 6-263 (4.3) Hyd. Hyd. 16 © 1000 850 650 300
1985 T 6-263 (4.3) Hyd. Hyd. 16 © 1000 850 650 300
© Refer to the underhood sticker

TUNE-UP PROCEDURES

In order to extract the full measure of have a decided effect on the results of a tune-up. extraordinarily long life is the exclusive use of
performance and economy from your car’s All of the applicable steps should be followed in unleaded fuel, which reduces the amount of
engine it is essential that it be properly tuned at order, as the result is a cumulative one. deposits within the combustion chamber and on
regular intervals. Although the tune-up intervals If the specifications on the tune-up label in the the spark plug electrodes themselves, compared
for these cars have been stretched to limits engine compartment of your A-Body disagree with the deposits left by the leaded gasoline used
which would have been thought impossible a with the Tune-Up Specifications chart in this in the past. An additional contribution to long life
few years ago, periodic maintenance is still section, the figures on the sticker must be used. is made by the HEI (High Energy Ignition)
required. A regularly scheduled tune-up will keep The label often reflects changes made during the System, which fires the spark plugs with over
your car’s engine running smoothly and will production run. 35,000 volts of electricity. The high voltage
prevent the annoying minor breakdowns and serves to keep the electrodes clear, and because
poor performance associated with an untuned it is a cleaner blast of electricity than that
engine. Spark Plugs produced by breaker points ignitions, the
A complete tune-up should be performed at electrodes suffer less pitting and wear.
the interval specified in the Maintenance #SEE FIGS. 1 to 6 Nevertheless, the life of a spark plug is
Intervals chart in Section 1. This interval should Spark plugs ignite the air and fuel mixture in dependent on a number of factors, including the
be halved if the car is operated under severe the cylinder as the piston reaches the top of the mechanical condition of the engine, driving
conditions, such as trailer towing, prolonged compression stroke. The controlled explosion conditions, and the driver’s habits.
idling, continual stop-and-start driving, or if that results forces the piston down, turning the When you remove the plugs, check the
starting and running problems are noticed. It is crankshaft and the rest of the drive train. condition of the electrodes, they are a good
assumed that the routine maintenance described The average life of a spark plug 30,000 miles indicator of the internal state of the engine. Since
in the first section has been kept up, as this will (48,300km). Part of the reason for this the spark plug wires must be checked every
2-4 ENGINE PERFORMANCE AND TUNE-UP
THE SHORTER the longer
deposits, but the electrodes will bum away
THE PATH THE THE PATH, THE quickly and, in some cases, pre-ignition may
EASTER THE SLOWER THE
HEAT IS DIS¬ HEAT IS DIS¬
result. Pre-ignition occurs when the spark plug
SIPATED AND SIPATED AND tips get so hot that they ignite the fuel/mixture
THE COOLER THE HOTTER
THE PLUG HE PLUG before the actual spark fires. This premature
ignition will usually cause a pinging sound under
conditions of low speed and heavy load. In
severe cases, the heat may become high enough
to start the fuel/air mixture burning throughout
HEAVY LOADS. SHORT TRIP the combustion chamber rather than just to the
HKJM SPEEDS stopand-go
front of the plug. In this case, the resultant
SHORT Iniulltor Tip LONG IntulaKx Tip explosion (detonation) will be strong enough to
Fa*t Hoi Tunslar Slow Haat Tfanjlaf
LOWER H«al Rang* HIGHER Haat Range damage pistons, rings, and valves.
COLD PLUG HOT PLUG In most cases, the factory recommended heat
FIG. 1 Spark plug heat range range is correct; it is chosen to perform well
under a wide range of operating conditions.
However, if most of your driving is long distance,
high speed travel, you may want to install a
spark plug one range colder than standard. If
most of your driving is of the short trip variety,
when the engine may not always reach operating
temperature, a hotter plug may help bum off the
deposits normally accumulated under those
conditions.

REMOVAL

1. Number the wires with pieces of adhesive

tape so that you won’t cross them when you
replace them.
2. The spark plug boots have large grips to
aid in removal. Grasp the wire by the rubber boot
and twist the boot Vi turn in either direction to
break the tight seal between the boot and the
plug. Then twist and pull on the boot to remove
FIG.2 Cross section of a spark plug
the wire from the spark plug. Do not pull on the
wire itself or you will damage the carbon cord
conductor.
15,000 miles (24,000km), the spark plugs can misfire, you will have to investigate, correct the 3. Use a 1 2 3 4 5/s in. spark plug socket to loosen
be removed and examined at the same time. This cause of the fouling, and either clean or replace of the plugs about two turns. A universal joint
will allow you to keep an eye on the mechanical the plug. installed at the socket end of the extension will
status of the engine. There are several reasons why a spark plug ease the process.
A small deposit of light tan or rusl/red material will foul and you can learn which is at fault by If removal of the plugs is difficult, apply a few
on a spark plug that has been used for any just looking at the plug. A few of the most drops of penetrating oil or silicone spray to the
period of time is to be considered normal. Any common reasons for plug fouling, and a area around the base of the plug, and allow it a
other color, or abnormal amounts of wear or description of the fouled plug’s appearance, are few minutes to work.
deposits, indicates that there is something amiss listed in the color insert section. 4. if compressed air is available, apply it to
in the engine. Spark plugs suitable for use in your car’s the area around the spark plug holes. Otherwise,
The gap between the center electrode and the engine are offered in a number of different heat use a rag or a brush to clean the area. Be careful
side or ground electrode can be expected to ranges. The amount of heat which the plug not to allow any foreign material to drop into the
increase not more than 0.001 in. (0.025mm) absorbs is determined by the length of the lower spark plug holes.
every 1,000 miles (1609km) under normal insulator. The longer the insulator, the hotter the 5. Remove the plugs by unscrewing them the
conditions. plug will operate; the shorter the insulator, the rest of the way.
When a spark plug is functioning normally or, cooler it will operate. A spark plug that absorbs
more accurately, when the plug is installed in an (or retains) little heat and remains too cool will
engine that is functioning properly, the plugs can accumulate deposits of oil and carbon, because
be taken out, cleaned, regapped, and reinstalled it is not hot enough to bum them off. This leads
in the engine without doing the engine any harm. to fouling and consequent misfiring. A spark plug
When, and if, a plug fouls and begins to that absorbs too much heat will have no
 ENGINE PERFORMANCE AND TUNE-UP 2-5
THREAD SIZE LONG TAPERED SUFFIXES ARE COMBINED TO FORM SUCH
4 = 14mm SHELL (SUFFIX* DESIGNATIONS AS: LS, LTS, TS, ETC

• = COPPER CORE
L = LONG REACH
5 = EXTENDED TIP
T = TAPERED SEAT SHELL DESIGN
TSE = TAPERED SEAT WITH EXTENDED TIP

' / \
HEAT RANGE
0-1-2-3-4-5-6-7-8-9
SPECIAL DESIGN
ELECTRODE
M = SPECIAL DESIGN ELECTRODE
X = WIDE GAP
Z = SPECIAL GAP (USUALLY DENOTES WIDE GAP) ALSO EUROPEAN
6 = 1.5mm (0.60 IN.) GAP
8 = 2.0mm (0.80 IN.) GAP
COLD-►- HOT

FIG.3 Heat range example for 3.1 L engine

Do not use a flat feeler gauge when measuring

the gap, because the reading will be inaccurate.
Wire gapping tools usually have a bending tool
attached. Use that to adjust the side electrode
until the proper distance is obtained. Also, be
careful not to bend the side electrode too far or
too often; it may weaken and break off within the
engine, requiring removal of the cylinder head to
retrieve it

FIG.4 Checking the spark plug gap

INSTALLATION

1. Lubricate the threads of the spark plugs

with a drop of oil or a shot of silicone spray.
Install the plugs and tighten them handtight Take
care not to crossthread them.
2. Tighten the spark plugs with the socket Do
not apply the same amount of force you would
INSPECTION use for a bott; just snug them in. These spark
plugs do not use gaskets, and over-tightening
Check the plugs for deposits and wear. If they will make future removal difficult, if a torque
are not going to be replaced, clean the plugs wrench is available, tighten to 10-20 ft lbs.
thoroughly. Remember that any kind of deposit While over-tightening the spark
will decrease the efficiency of the plug. Plugs plug Is to be avoided,
can be cleaned on a spark plug cleaning under-tightening Is Just as bad. If
machine, which can sometimes be found in combustion gases leak past the
service stations, or you can do an acceptable job
threads, the spark plug will
of cleaning with a stiff brush. If the plugs are overheat and rapid electrode wear
cleaned, the electrodes must be filed flat. Use an
will result.
ignition points file, not an emery board or the
like, which will leave deposits. The electrodes
must be filed perfectly flat with sharp edges; 3. Install the wires on their respective plugs.
rounded edges reduce the spark plug voltage by Make sure the wires are firmly connected. You
as much as 50%. will be able to feel them click into place. Spark
Check the spark plug gap before installation. plug wiring diagrams are in this section if you get
The ground electrode must be parallel to the into trouble.
center electrode and the specified size wire
gauge should pass through the gap with a slight
drag. Always check the gap on new plugs, too;
they are not always correctly set at the factory.
2-6 ENGINE PERFORMANCE AND TUNE-UP
Spark Plug Wires
* SEE FIG. 7 and 8
Every 15,000 miles (24,000km), inspect the
spark plug wires for bums, cuts, or breaks in the
insulation. Check the boots and the nipples on
the distributor cap. Replace any damaged wiring.
Every 45,000 miles (72,400km) or so, the
resistance of the wires should be checked with
an ohmmeter. Wires with excessive resistance
will cause misfiring, and may make the engine
difficult to start in damp weather. Generally, the
useful life of the cables is 45,000-60,000 miles
(72,400-96,500km).
1. INSERT SCREWDRIVER TO UNLOCK
To check resistance, remove the distributor 2. RETAINER-DO NOT PULL ON WIRE
cap, leaving the wires in place. Connect one lead WITH RETAINER LOCKED
of an ohmmeter to an electrode within the cap;
connect the other lead to the corresponding FIG.7 Unlocking the plastic retainers to replace spark plug wires
spark plug terminal (remove it from the spark
plug for this test). Replace any wire which
shows a resistance over 30,000(1 The following
chart gives resistance values as a function of
length. Generally speaking, however, resistance
should not be considered the outer limit of
acceptability.
• 0-15 in. (0-38cm): 3,000-10,0000
• 15-25 in. (38-64cm): 4,000-15,0000
• 25-35 in. (64-89cm): 6,000-20,0000
• Over 35 in. (89cm): 25,0000
It should be remembered that resistance is
also a function of length; the longer the wire, the
greater the resistance. Thus, if the wires on your
car are longer than the factory originals,
resistance will be higher, quite possibly outside
these limits.
When installing new wires, replace them one
at a time to avoid mixups. Start by replacing the
longest one first. Install the boot firmly over the
spark plug. Route the wire over the the same
path as the original. Insert the nipple firmly onto
the tower on the distributor cap, then install the
cap cover and latches to secure the wires.

Firing Orders
To avoid confusion, remove and
tag the wires one at a time, for
replacement
 ENGINE PERFORMANCE AND TUNE-UP 2-7

FIG.11 2.8L engine with distributor

Engine firing order 1-2-3-4-5-6
Distributor rotation clockwise

FIG.12 3.8L engine without distributor

Engine firing order 1-6-5-4-3-2
Distributorless ignition

FIG.13 2.5L engine without Distributor

Engine firing order 1-3-4-2
Distributorless ignition

FIG.14 3.1 L engine without Distributor

Engine firing order 1-2-3-4-5-6
FIG.15 3.3L engine without Distributor
Distributorless ignition
Engine firing order 1-6-5-4-3-2
Distributorless ignition
2-8 ENGINE PERFORMANCE AND TUNE-UP

ELECTRONIC IGNITION SYSTEMS

For 1982 and later an HEI distributor with pick-up coil. When the teeth of the rotating timer
Description and Electronic Spark Timing is used (for more align with the teeth of the pole piece, the induced
information on EST, refer to Section 4). voltage in the pick-up coil signals the electronic
Operation module to open the coil primary circuit. The
All spark timing changes in the 1982 and later
distributors are done electronically by the primary current then decreases, and a high
General Motors uses two basic ignition Electronic Control Module (ECM) which voltage is induced in the ignition coil secondary
systems on these vehicles. A high energy monitors information from various engine windings which is then directed through the rotor
distributor type system or a high energy sensors, computes the desired spark timing and and high voltage leads, (spark plug wires) to fire
distributorless type system. The High Energy then signals the distributor to change the timing the spark plugs.
Ignition (H.E.I.) system is virtually maintenance accordingly. No vacuum or mechanical advance In essence then, the pick-up coil module
free, since it is electronic and, therefore, uses no , systems are used whatsoever. system simply replaces the conventional breaker
breaker points. The only required service for the In the HEI system, as in other electronic points and condenser. The condenser found
H.E.I. distributor is to check the distributor cap ignition systems, the breaker points have been within the distributor is for radio suppression
and rotor for cracks, carbon tracking, and replaced with an electronic switch, a transistor, purposes only and has nothing to do with the
corrosion every 30,000 miles (48,300km). which is located within the control module. This ignition process. The module automatically
On distributorless systems, even less switching transistor performs the same function controls the dwell period, increasing it with
maintenance is required. Since there is no the points did in a conventional ignition system; increasing engine speed. Since dwell is
distributor, there is also no distributor cap or it simply turns coil primary current on and off at automatically controlled, it cannot be adjusted.
rotor to wear out. The only normal maintenance the correct time. Essentially then, electronic and The module itself is non-adjustable and non-
required on these systems will be the spark plug conventional ignition systems operate on the repairable and must be replaced if found
wires. Diagnosis of no start conditions may same principle. defective.
require testing the ignition module or coil The module which houses the switching
assemblies, these items are not much different transistor is controlled (turned on and off) by a
than the ignition module or coll used on HEI magnetically generated impulse induced in the
systems.
The distributorless ignition systems used by
General Motors go by two names, either DIS or
C3I. DIS simple stands for distributorless ignition
system while C3I stands for computer controlled
coil ignition. Both of these systems function the
same way; by connecting a several coil packs to
a pairs of spark plugs and firing the proper coil
each time the a specific plug should spark,
instead of using a distributor cap and rotor.
The distributorless systems is a far better
ignition system. More accurate spark control,
less parts to wear, capable of higher spark
output and hotter spark at the high rpm that
newer engine run at

HIGH ENERGY IGNITION

(HEI) SYSTEM

The General Motors HEI system is a pulse-

triggered, transistor-controlled, inductive
discharge ignition system. The entire HEI system
is contained within the distributor cap.
The distributor, in addition to housing the
mechanical and vacuum advance mechanisms,
contains the ignition coil, the electronic control
module, and the magnetic pick-up assembly
contains a permanent magnet, a pole piece with
internal teeth, and a pick-up coil (not to be
confused with the ignition coil).
 ENGINE PERFORMANCE AND TUNE-UP 2-9

FIG.17 Electrical schematic C3I ignition system

COMPUTER CONTROLLED GRD

«B +
COIL IGNITION (C3I) SYSTEM

Starting in 1987, some models of the A-body ENGINE

CONTROL
cars came with 4 and 6 cylinder engines MODULE (ECM)
equipped with Computer Controlled Coil Ignition
(C3I) or Distributorless Ignition System (DIS),
which eliminates the distributor. The C3I ignition
system consists of a coil pack, ignition module,
camshaft and crankshaft sensor. There are two
types of C3I coils used. Type 1 coils have three
plug wires on each side of the coil assembly;
Type 2 coils have all six wires connected on one
side of the coil. When troubleshooting or SPARK
PLUGS
replacing components, it is important to
determine which C3I system is installed on the
engine. CRANKSHAFT
Both DIS and C3I system consists of the coil SENSOR
pack, ignition module, crankshaft sensor,
interrupter rings and electronic control module CRANKSHAFT
WHEEL
(ECM). All components are serviced as
complete assemblies, although individual coils SHOWN AT \ 0 i) 10
TDC CYLINDERS
are available for Type 2 coil packs. Since the 6 AND 3 ROTATION
ECM controls the ignition timing, no timing
adjustments are necessary or possible.
FIG.26 Direct ignition system used on the 2.8L engine

Diagnosis and Testing

The ignition, fuel, electrical and emission
systems are all interrelated on the newer
2-10 ENGINE PERFORMANCE AND TUNE-UP
HIGH ENERGY IGNITION

0
Ui SO 100
• MAGNETIC SENSOR
PRECAUTIONS

This is an extremely high voltage system and

contact with the spark plug wires with the
ignition switch ON can give a very dangerous
shock. Never service the or test the spark plug
wires, distributor cap or coil with the key ON or
engine running unless instructed to perform a
specific test. Before going on to troubleshooting,
it might be a good idea to take note of the
following precautions:
To avoid damage to the ECM or
other ignition system components,
do not use electrical test
equipment such as battery or AC
powered voltmeter, ohmmeter, etc.
FIG.27 Notch effect on the output signal used on crank sensor or any type of tester other than
specified.
• When performing electrical tests on the
vehicles that have computer control engines. may be in the fuel or engine electrical sections. system, use a high impedance multimeter,
Testing these systems has become very If a component test or symptom is not found in digital voltmeter (DVM) J-34029-A or equivalent.
involved because of this. When using this the section of the book that you expect, check • To prevent electrostatic discharge damage,
manual it’s important to realize that these the other related sections and you’ll find the when working with the ECM, do not touch the
systems overlap. Some testing or component necessary procedures. connector pins or soldered components on the
replacement that may effect the ignition system circuit board.
 ENGINE PERFORMANCE AND TUNE-UP 2-11
system, there are certain preliminary checks
which you should carry out before you begin to
check the electronic portions of the system.
First, it is extremely important to make sure the
vehicle battery is in a good state of charge. A
defective or poorly charged battery will cause
the various components of the ignition system to
read incorrectly when they are being tested.
Second, Make sure all wiring connections are
clean and tight, not only at the battery, but also
at the distributor cap, ignition coil, and at the
electronic control module.
Since the only change between electronic and
conventional ignition systems is in the distributor
component area, it is imperative to check the
secondary ignition circuit first If the secondary
circuit checks out properly, then the engine
condition is probably not the fault of the ignition
system. To check the secondary ignition system,
perform a simple spark test. Remove one of the
plug wires and insert some sort of extension in
the plug socket. An old spark plug with the
ground electrode removed makes a good
extension. Hold the wire and extension about V4
in. (6mm) away from the block and crank the
engine. If a normal spark occurs, then the
problem is most likely not in the ignition system.
not necessarily mean the reading is correct. In Check for fuel system problems, or fouled spark
• When handling a PROM, CAL-PAK or MEM-
plugs.
CAL, do not touch the component leads. Also, do addition, some tachometers hook up differently
not remove the integrated circuit from the carrier. from others. If you can’t figure out whether or not If, however, there is no spark or a weak spark,
• When performing electrical tests on the your tachometer will work on your car, check then further ignition system testing will have to
system, use a high impedance multimeter, with the tachometer manufacturer. Dwell be done. Troubleshooting techniques fall into
digital voltmeter (DVM) J-34029-A or equivalent. readings, or course, have no significance at all. two categories, depending on the nature of the
• Never pierce a high tension lead or boot for problem. The categories are (1) Engine cranks,
any testing purpose; otherwise, future problems HEI System Testers but won’t start or (2) Engine runs, but runs rough
are guaranteed. Instruments designed specifically for testing or cuts out. To begin with, let’s consider the first
• Leave new components and modules in the HEI systems are available from several tool case.
shipping package until ready to install them. manufacturers. Some of these will even test the
Engine Fail to Start
• Never disconnect any electrical connection module itself.
with the ignition switch ON unless instructed to If the engine cranks but doesn’t start If the engine won’t start, perform a spark test
do so in a test. additional tests are in section 4. Use the A- as described earlier. This will narrow the
Charts especially Charts A-2 to A-7. These problem area down considerably. If no spark
Timing Light Use charts provide step by step instruction fortesting occurs, check for the presence of normal battery
Inductive pick-up timing lights are the best for spark and fuel. voltage of the battery (BAT) terminal in the
kind of use with HEI. Timing light which connect distributor cap. The ignition switch must be in
between the spark plug and the spark plug wire the ON position for this test. Either a voltmeter or
occasionally (not always) give false readings. TROUBLESHOOTING THE a test light may be used for this test. Connect the
test light wire to ground and probe end to the
Spark Plug Wires IGNITION SYSTEM BAT terminal at the distributor. If the light comes
The plug wires used with HEI systems are of on, you have voltage on the distributor. If the light
a different construction than conventional wires. The symptoms of a defective component fails to come on, this indicates an open circuit in
When replacing them, make sure you get the within the electronic ignition system are exactly the ignition primary wiring leading to the
correct wires, since conventional wires won’t the same as those you would encounter in a distributor. In this case, you will have to check
carry the voltage. Also, handle them carefully to conventional system. Some of these symptoms wiring continuity back to the ignition switch
avoid cracking or splitting them and never pierce are: using a test light. If there is battery voltage at the
them. • Hard or no Starting BAT terminal, but no spark at the plugs, then the
• Rough Idle problem lies within the distributor assembly.
Tachometer Use • Poor Fuel Economy
Not all tachometers will operate or indicate • Engine misses under load or while
correctly when used on a HEI system. While accelerating
some tachometers may give a reading, this does If you suspect a problem in your ignition
2-12 ENGINE PERFORMANCE AND TUNE-UP
Engine Runs, But Runs Rough or MM ■_■
Cuts Out LF E D C B A
O
1. Make sure the plug wires are in good Rrr M a >
shape first. There should be no obvious cracks
or breaks. You can check the plug wires with an TERMINAL IDENTIFICATION
ohmmeter, but do not pierce the wires with a E SERIAL DATA
A GROUND
probe. Check the chart for the correct plug wire
resistance. B DIAGNOSTIC TERMINAL F TCC (IF USED)
2. If the plug wires are OK, remove the cap
C A.I.R. (IF USED) G FUEL PUMP (IF USED)
assembly and check of moisture, cracks, ships,
or carbon tracks, or any other high voltage leaks D SERVICE ENGINE M SERIAL DATA (IF USED)
or failures. Replace the cap if any defects are SOON LIGHT (IF USED)
found. Make sure the timer wheel rotates when FIG.16 ALDL connector
the engine is cranked.

3. High MAP output voltage-less spark 4. Select IAC system, then Idle Learn in the
READING CODES advance MISC Test mode.
4. Hot engine-less spark advance 5. Proceed with the Idle Learn as directed by
Therefore, detonation could be caused by low the scan tool.
t SEE FIG. 16 MAP output or high resistance in the coolant
Assembly Line Diagnostic Link (ALDL) sensor circuit.
connector is used for communicating with the Poor performance could be caused by high DISTRIBUTOR
ECM. It is usually located under the instrument MAP output or low resistance in the coolant COMPONENTS TESTING
panel and is sometimes covered by a plastic sensor circuit.
cover labeled DIAGNOSTIC CONNECTOR. Codes
stored in the ECM’s memory can be read through If the trouble has been narrowed down to the
a handheld diagnostic scanner plugged into the units within the distributor, the following tests
IDLE LEARN PROCEDURE
ALDL connector. Codes can also be read by can help pinpoint the defective component. An
connecting terminal A to B of the ALDL ohmmeter with both high and low ranges should
connector and counting the number of flashes of This procedure allows the ECM memory to be be used. These tests are made with the cap
the Service Engine Soon light, with the ignition updated with the correct IAC valve pintle assembly removed and the battery wire
switch turned ON. position. The Idle Learn procedure must be disconnected. If a tachometer is connected to
performed on the 3.1 L engine as follows: the TACH terminal, disconnect it before making
1. Place the transaxle in P or N. these tests.
CLEARING CODES 2. Install the Tech 1 scan tool or equivalent.
3. Turn the ignition switch ON, engine OFF.

To clear codes from the ECM memory, the

ECM power feed must be disconnected for at IGNITION COIL
least 30 seconds. Depending on the vehicle, the CONNECTOR
ECM power feed can be disconnected at the TERMINALS
positive battery terminal pigtail, the inline
fuseholder that originates at the positive
connection at the battery or the ECM fuse in the
fuse block. The negative battery cable may also
be disconnected; however, other on-board LATCH (2)
memory data, such as preset radio tuning, will
also be lost.

SYMPTOM DIAGNOSIS

The ECM uses information from the MAP and

coolant sensor, in addition to rpm to calculate
spark advance as follows: 4-TERMINAL
CONNECTOR
1. Low MAP output voltage-more spark
advance
2. Cold engine-more spark advance
FIG.19 HEI ESTDistributor assembly
 ENGINE PERFORMANCE AND TUNE-UP 2-13

PICKUP COIL
ASSEMBLY

"C"
WASHER

MODULE
..p.. PICKUP COIL
IGNITION COIL
TERMINAL CONNECTOR

IGNITION CONNECTOR
TERMINALS

PICKUP LATCH
COIL
ASSEMBLY

MODULE
TERMINAL
"P" CONNECTOR
TERMINAL
PICKUP COIL LEADS
DISCONNECTED FROM
MODULE

FIG.18 Distributor and ignition coil components

Tachometer Hookup ^ These resistance checks will not 4. To test the pick-up coil, first disconnect
There is a terminal marked TACH on the disclose shorted could windings. the white and green module leads. Set the
distributor cap. Connect one tachometer lead to This condition can only be detected ohmmeter on the high scale and connect it
this terminal and the other lead to a ground. On with scope analysis or a suitably between a ground and either the white or green
some tachometer, the leads must be connected designed coil tester. If these lead. Any resistance measurement less than
to the TACK terminal and to the battery positive instruments are unavailable, infinity requires replacement of the pick-up coil.
terminal. replace the coil with a known good 5. Pick-up coil continuity is tested by
coil as a final coll test. connecting the ohmmeter (on low range)

CAUTION
Never ground the TACH terminal;
serious module and Ignition coil
damage will result. If there is any
doubt as to the correct tachometer
hookup, check with the tachometer
manufacturer.

1. Connect an ohmmeter between the TACH

and BAT terminals in the distributor cap. The
primary coil resistance should be less than 1ft.
2. To check the coil secondary resistance,
connect an ohmmeter between the rotor button
and BAT terminal. Note the reading. Connect the
ohmmeter between the rotor button and the
TACH terminal. Note the reading. The resistance
in both cases should be between 6,000 and
30,000ft. Be sure to test between the rotor
button and both the BAT and TACH terminals.
3. Replace the coil only if the readings in Step
1 and Step 2 are infinite. FIG.20 Electronic Distributor modules used by General Motors
2-14 ENGINE PERFORMANCE AND TUNE-UP
8. Coat the rubber seal with a dielectric
lubricant furnished in the replacement ignition
coil package.
9. Reverse the above procedures to install.

HEI DISTRIBUTOR CAP

1. Remove the feed and module wire terminal

connectors from the distributor cap.
2. Remove the retainer and spark plug wires
from the cap.
3. Depress and release the 4 distributor cap-
to-housing retainers and lift off the cap
assembly.
4. Remove the 4 coil cover screws and
cover.
5. Using a finger or a blunt drift, push the
spade terminals up out of the distributor cap.
6. Remove all 4 coil screws and lift the coil,
coil spring and rubber seal washer out of the cap
coil cavity.
7. Using a new distributor cap, reverse the
above procedure to assemble being sure to
clean and lubricate the rubber seal washer with
dielectric lubricant.

HEI ROTOR

1. Disconnect the feed and module wire

connector from the distributor.
2. Depress and release the 4 distributor cap-
to-housing retainers and lift off the cap
assembly.
3. Remove the two rotor attaching screws
and rotor.
between the white and green leads. Normal 4. Reverse the above procedure to install.
resistance is between 800-1500 ohms. Move HEI Parts Replacement
the vacuum advance arm while performing this
test. This will detect any break in coil continuity. HEI MODULE
Such a condition can cause intermittent
misfiring. Replace the pick-up if the reading is HEI INTEGRAL IGNITION
outside the specified limits. COIL 1. Remove the distributor cap and rotor as
6. if no defects have been found at this time, previously described.
you still have a problem, then the module will 2. Disconnect the harness connector and
1. Disconnect the feed and module wire
have to be checked. If you do not have access to pick-up coil spade connectors from the module.
terminal connectors from the distributor cap.
a module tester, the only possible alternative is Be careful not to damage the wires when
2. Remove the ignition set retainer. removing the connector.
a substitution test. If the module fails the
3. Remove the 4 coil cover-to-distributor cap
substitution test, replace it. 3. Remove the two screws and module from
screws.
the distributor housing.
5. Using a blunt drift, press the coil wire
4. Coat the bottom of the new module with
spade terminals up out of the distributor cap.
dielectric lubricant supplied with the new
6. Lift the coil up out of the distributor cap.
module. Reverse the above procedure to install.
7. Remove and clean the coil spring, rubber
seal washer and coil cavity of the distributor cap.
 ENGINE PERFORMANCE AND TUNE-UP 2-15

DISTRIBUTOR DISASSEMBLY
TEST AND REASSEMBLY
(SEPARATELY MOUNTED COIL)
TESTING PICKUP COIL

1. A TYPICAL DISTRIBUTOR USED WITH A

SEPARATELY MOUNTED COIL IS SHOWN.

TESTING IGNITION COIL

3. REMOVE ROTOR AND PICKUP COIL LEADS FROM

MODULE.
4. CONNECT OHMMETER PART 1 AND PART 2.
5. OBSERVE OHMMETER. FLEX LEADS BY HAND TO
CHECK FOR INTERMITTENT OPENS.
STEP 1 — SHOULD READ INFINITE AT ALL TIMES.
IF NOT, PICKUP COIL IS DEFECTIVE.
STEP 2 — SHOULD READ ONE STEADY VALUE
BETWEEN 500-1500 OHMS AS LEADS ARE FLEXED
BY HAND. IF NOT, PICKUP COIL IS DEFECTIVE.

DRIVING PIN FROM SHAFT

2. CHECK IGNITION COIL WITH OHMMETER FOR

OPENS AND GROUNDS:
STEP 1. — USE HIGH SCALE. SHOULD READ VERY
HIGH (INFINITE). IF NOT, REPLACE COIL.
STEP 2. — USE LOW SCALE. SHOULD READ VERY
LOW OR ZERO. IF NOT, REPLACE COIL.
STEP 3. — USE HIGH SCALE. SHOULD NOTREAD SHAFT ASSEMBLY. MARK GEAR AND SHAFT FOR
INFINITE. IF IT DOES, REPLACE COIL. CORRECT REASSEMBLY.
2-16 ENGINE PERFORMANCE AND TUNE-UP

DISTRIBUTOR DISASSEMBLY
TEST AND REASSEMBLY
(SEPARATELY MOUNTED COIL)

REMOVE PICKUP COIL

PRY OFF RETAINER

POLE PIECE
PICKUP
COIL

9. DISCONNECT WIRING CONNECTORS FROM

MODULE. REMOVE TWO SCREWS TO REMOVE MODULE
TEST MODULE WITH AN APPROVED MODULE TESTER.
REASSEMBLY
10. WIPE DISTRIBUTOR BASE AND MODULE CLEAN,
APPLY SILICONE LUBRICANT BETWEEN MODULE AND
BASE FOR HEAT DISSIPATION.
11. ATTACH MODULE TO BASE. ATTACH PICKUP
CONNECTOR TO MODULE.
12. ASSEMBLE PICKUP POLE PIECE AND RETAINER.
13. ASSEMBLE SHAFT, GEAR PARTS AND ROLL PIN.
7. TO REMOVE PICKUP COIL, REMOVE RETAINER. 14. SPIN SHAFT TO INSURE THAT TEETH DO NOT
8. LIFT PICKUP COIL ASSEMBLY STRAIGHT UP TO TOUCH.
REMOVE FROM DISTRIBUTOR. 15. INSTALL ROTOR AND CAP.
 ENGINE PERFORMANCE AND TUNE-UP 2-17

DISTRIBUTOR DISASSEMBLY
TEST AND REASSEMBLY
(COIL IN CAP)
TESTING IGNITION COIL
"COIL IN CAP" DISTRIBUTOR

4. Connect ohmmeter. Test 1.

5. Reading should be zero, or nearly zero. If not. replace
coil. Step 8
6. Connect ohmmeter both ways. Test 2. Use high scale.
Replace coil only if both readings are infinite. Step 8.
7. If coil is good, go to Step 13.

IGNITION COIL ATTACHING SCREWS

h A 6-cyl. EST distributor with coil-in-cup is illustrated.

2. Detach wiring connector from cap. as shown.
3. Turn four latches and remove cap and coil assembly from
lower housing.

8. Remove coil-cover attaching screws and lift off cover.

2-18 ENGINE PERFORMANCE AND TUNE-UP

IGNITION COIL REMOVED FROM CAP DRIVING PIN FROM SHAFT

IGNITION
COIL

9. Remove ignition coil attaching screws and lift coil with

leads from cap
10. Remove ignition coil arc seal.
11. Clean with soft cloth and inspect cap for defects. Re¬
place. if needed.
12. Assemble new coil and cover to cap 18 Mark distributor shaft and gear so they can be reassem¬
bled in same position.
TESTING PICKUP COIL 19. Drive out roll pin.
OHMMETER OHMMETER
SHAFT ASSEMBLY REMOVED

three
ATTACHING
SCREWS
MAGNETIC
SHIELD

13. On ail distributors, including distributors with Hall Effect

Switch identified in Step 27. remove rotor and pickup coil leads
from module.
14. Connect ohmmeter Test 1 and then Test 2.
15. If vacuum unit is used, connect vacuum source to vac¬
uum unit. Replace unit if inoperative. Observe ohmmeter
throughout vacuum range; flex leads by hand without vacuum
to check for intermittent opens.
16. Test 1 — should read infinite at all times.
Test 2 — should read steady at one value within 500-1500 PICKUP COIL
ohm range. LEADS DIS¬
NOTE: Ohmmeter may deflect if operating vacuum unit CONNECTED
causes teeth to align. This is not a defect. FROM MODULE
17. If pickup coil is defective, go to Step 18. If okay, go to
Step 23. 20. Remove gear and pull shaft assembly from distributor.
 ENGINE PERFORMANCE AND TUNE-UP 2-19

ALUMINUM NON MAGNETIC SHIELD REMOVED MODULE REMOVED

PICKUP COIL PICKUP COIL

23. Remove two module attaching screw'., and capacitor at¬

taching screw. Lift module, capacitor and harness assembly
from base.
24. Disconnect wiring harness from module.
21. Remove three attaching screws and remove magnetic 25. Check module with an approved module tester.
shield. 26. Install module, wiring harness, and capacitor assembly.
Use silicone lubricant on housing under module.

PICKUP COIL REMOVED AND DISASSEMBLED

REASSEMBLY

27. Assemble pickup and thin "C" washer.

28. Assemble shaft, gear parts and roll pin.
29. Spin shaft to insure that teeth do not touch.
30. Loosen, titer, re-tigiuen pickup coil teeth to eliminate
contact.
31. Install rotor and cap.

22. Remove retaining ring and remove pickup coil, magnet

and pole piece.
2-20 ENGINE PERFORMANCE AND TUNE-UP
DIS Parts Replacement
1. No. 2/3 ignition coil
2. No. 1/4 ignition coil
3. Ignition module
4. Crankshaft sensor
DIS ASSEMBLY 5. Bolt

2.5L, 2.8L and 3.1 L Engines

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
On the 3.1 L engines If battery
power is lost to the engine
computer the Idle learn memory
FIG.31 Coil, module and crank sensor - 4-cylinder
will be lost, causing poor or no Idle
control. A special Scan Tool, must
be used to perform the Idle learn a. Connect the Scan tool to the ALDL.
To Install:
procedure. Avoid disconnecting the b. Turn the ignition switch to the ON
6. Install the DIS assembly and attaching
battery on 3.1 L whenever possible. position with the engine not running.
bolts.
2. Disconnect the DIS electrical connectors. 7. Connect the spark plug wires. c. In the “Misc. Test” mode, select “IAC
3. Tag and disconnect the spark plug wires. 8. Connect the DIS electrical connectors. System”, then “Idle Learn”.
4. Remove the DIS assembly attaching bolts. 9. Connect the negative battery cable. d. Proceed with idle leam as directed.
5. Remove the DIS assembly from the 10. On 3.1 L engine, perform the Idle Learn
engine. Procedure as follows:
IGNITION COIL(S)

2.5L, 2.8L and 3.1 L Engines

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
On the 3.1 L engines if battery
power Is lost to the engine
computer the idle learn memory
will be lost, causing poor or no idle
control. A special Scan Tool, must
be used to perform the Idle learn
procedure. Avoid disconnecting the
battery on 3.1 L whenever possible.
2. Disconnect and tag spark plug wires.
3. Remove ignition coii(s) attaching bolts,
then the ignition coil from the module.
To install:
4. Install the coil(s) and attaching bolts.
5. Connect the spark plug wires.
6. Connect the negative battery cable.
MRnSTT 7. On 3.1 L engine perform the Idle Leam
Procedure as follows:
a. Connect the Scan tool to the ALDL
b. Turn the ignition switch to the ON
position with the engine not running.
c. In the “Misc. Test” mode, select “IAC
System”, then “Idle Leam”.
d. Proceed with idle leam as directed.

IGNITION MODULE

FIG.24 Distributorless ignition system function 2.5L, 2.8L and 3.1 L Engines
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
 ENGINE PERFORMANCE AND TUNE-UP 2-21
^ On the 3.1 L engines if battery
power Is lost to the engine
computer the Idle learn memory
will be lost, causing poor or no Idle
control. A special Scan Tool, must
be used to perform the Idle learn
procedure. Avoid disconnecting the
battery on 3.1 L whenever possible.
2. Remove the DIS assembly from the
engine.
3. Remove the coils from the assembly.
4. Remove DIS module from the assembly
plate.
To Install:
5. Install the DIS module to the assembly
plate.
6. Install the coils to the assembly. FIG.30 Distributorless C3I coils and module assembly - 3.3L engine shown
7. Install the DIS assembly to the engine.
8. Connect the negative battery cable.
9. On 3.1 L engine perform the Idle Learn To install:
Procedure as follows: 6. Install the coil assemblies to the ignition
a. Connect the Scan tool to the ALDL. module and install the 6 attaching bolts.
b. Turn the ignition switch to the ON 7. Install the nuts and washers attaching the
position with the engine not running. assembly to the bracket.
c. In the “Misc. Test” mode, select “IAC 8. Connect the spark plug wires.
System”, then “Idle Learn”. 9. Connect the 14-way connector to the
d. Proceed with idle leam as directed. module.
10. Connect the negative battery cable.
FIG.36 Camshaft sensor used on 3.8L (VIN C)
CRANKSHAFT SENSOR engine with C3I system
IGNITION COIL(S)

2.5L, 2.8L and 3.1 L Engines b. Turn the ignition switch to the ON
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. position with the engine not running. 3.3L and 3.8L Engine
c. In the “Misc. Test” mode, select “IAC 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
On the 3.1 L engines if battery System”, then “Idle Leam”.
power Is lost to the engine 2. Tag and disconnect spark plug wires.
d. Proceed with idle leam as directed. 3. Remove ignition coil(s) attaching bolts,
computer the Idle learn memory
will be lost, causing poor or no idle then the ignition coil from the module.
control. A special Scan Tool, must To install:
be used to perform the Idle learn C* 1 2 3 4 5I System Parts 4. Install the coil(s) and attaching bolts.
procedure. Avoid disconnecting the 5. Connect the spark plug wires.
battery on 3.1 L whenever possible.
Replacement 6. Connect the negative battery cable.
2. Disconnect crankshaft sensor electrical
connector.
DUAL CRANKSHAFT
3. Remove the crankshaft sensor attaching
bolt, then remove the crankshaft sensor from the
C3I MODULE SENSOR
vehicle.
To install: * SEE FIG. 34
4. Inspect the sensor 0-ring for wear, cracks 3.3L and 3.8L Engine
or leakage. Replace as necessary. Lubricate the 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 3.3L and 3.8L Engine
new 0-ring with engine oil prior to installation. 2. Disconnect the 14-way connector at the 1. Disconnect battery negative cable.
5. Install the sensor into the hole in the engine ignition module. 2. Disconnect serpentine belt from crankshaft
block and install retaining bolt. 3. Tag and disconnect the spark plug wires at pulley.
6. Connect the electrical connector. the coil assembly. 3. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
7. Connect the negative battery cable. 4. Remove the nuts and washers securing 4. Remove right front tire and wheel
8. On 3.1 L engine perform the Idle Leam the C3! module assembly to the bracket. assembly, then the inner access cover.
Procedure as follows: 5. Remove the 6 bolts attaching the coil 5. Remove crankshaft harmonic balancer
a. Connect the Scan tool to the ALDL. assemblies to the ignition module. retaining bolt and crankshaft harmonic balancer.
2-22 ENGINE PERFORMANCE AND TUNE-UP

1. Retaining screws
2. Ignition module
3. Ignition coils (3)

FIG.33 Ignition coil removal and installation - 3.8L engine shown

6. Disconnect electrical connector from

sensor and remove the crankshaft sensor from
the vehicle.
To install:
7. Loosely install the crankshaft sensor on
the pedestal.
8. Position the sensor with the pedestal
attached on special tool J—37089.
9. Position the tool on the crankshaft.
10. Install the bolts to hold the pedestal to the
block face. Tighten to 14-28 ft. lbs. (20-40
Nm).
11. Tighten the pedestal pinch bolt to 30-35
inch lbs. (3-4 Nm).
12. Remove special tool J—37089.
13. Place special tool J—37089 on the
harmonic balancer and turn. If any vane of the
harmonic balancer touches the tool, replace the
balancer assembly.
A clearance of 0.025 inch Is
required on either side of the
interrupter ring. Be certain to
obtain the correct clearance.
Failure to do so will damage the
sensor. A misadjusted sensor of
bent interrupter ring could cause
rubbing of the sensor, resulting in
potential driveability problems,
such as rough idle, poor
performance, or a no start
condition.
14. Install the balancer on the crankshaft and
install the crankshaft balancer bolt. Tighten to
200-239 ft. lbs. (270-325 Nm).
15. Install the inner fender shield. FIG.35 Harmonic balancer with interrupter rings - C3I system
16. Install the tire and wheel assembly.
Tighten to 100 ft. lbs. (140 Nm).
17. Lower the vehicle.
18. Install the serpentine belt.
19. Connect the negative battery cable.
 ENGINE PERFORMANCE AND TUNE-UP 2-23
IGNITION TIMING

t SEE FIGS. 37-40 can mechanically do so. This contest between ADJUSTMENT
Ignition timing is the point at which each spark the explosion forcing the piston downward and
plug fires in relation to its respective piston, the crankshaft forcing the piston upward will
during the compression stroke of the engine. result in a pinging sound if you’re lucky; severe
As far as ignition timing is concerned, the engine damage if you’re not so lucky. If you
DIS and C3I Systems
position of the piston, can be related (in degrees) experience pinging, check with a trusted All vehicles that equipped with either the
to the following reference terms: Top Dead mechanic to determine if the pinging is mild or Direct Ignition System (DIS) or the Computer
Center (TDC), After Top Dead Center (ATDC), severe. Only a trained car mechanic can safely Controlled Coil Ignition (C3I) system. The
and Before Top Dead Center (BTDC). The determine this. systems consist of a coil pack, ignition module,
movement of the piston is expressed in degrees crankshaft reluctor or interrupter ring(s),
Pinging can also be caused by
due to the rotation of the crankshaft. Even though magnetic sensor and an Electronic Control
inferior gasoline, since lower
the crankshaft turns 720° to complete one entire Module (ECM). Timing advance and retard are
octane gas burns at a faster, more
4-stroke cycle, all we’re concerned about here is accomplished through the ECM with the
uncontrolled rate than a higher
the compression stroke, since this is when the Electronic Spark Timing (EST) and Electronic
octane fuel.
ignition of the air/fuel mixture takes place (or Spark Control (ESC) circuitry. No ignition timing
more accurately, shouid take place). In order to compensate for low quality gas, adjustment is required or possible.
Because it takes a fraction of a second for the the ignition timing may be retarded a couple of
degrees, though this is not recommended since HEI System
spark (at the spark plug) to ignite the air/fuel
mixture and for the mixture to bum completely, performance and fuel economy will suffer. To check the timing before and after
the spark should ideally occur just before the On United States engines, after the initial adjustment, a timing light is used. The timing
piston reaches TDC. If the spark didn’t occur (base) timing is set, the emission control light will visually show you a) when the spark is
until exactly TDC or ATDC, the piston would computer and related components electronically sent to the spark plug, and b) the position of the
already be on its way down before the mixture determine and adjust the degree of spark crankshaft when the spark occurs.
explosion would not exert as much downward advance under all conditions. On 1982-85 There are three basic types of timing light
force on the piston as it would if the ignition Canadian models, total ignition timing advance is available. The first is a simple neon bulb with two
timing was properly set. The result of this would determined by three things: initial timing setting, wire connections (one for the spark plug and one
be reduced power and fuel economy. distributor vacuum controh and distributor for the plug wire, connecting the light in series).
Should ignition of the air/fuel mixture occur mechanical control. This type of light is quite dim, and must be held
too far BTDC (advanced), the mixture explosion closely to the marks to be seen, but it is quite
will try to force the piston downward before it inexpensive. The second type of light operates

INDUCTIVE
TIMING LIGHT
PICKUP
CLAMP AROUND
IGNITION COIL
WIRE AT DISTRIBUTOR
TIMING TAB
CYL #1

CYL #3

CYL #4
ADJUST DISTRIBUTOR
TO CENTER APPARENT
NOTCH WIDTH ABOUT
THE TIMING SPECIFICATION BATTERY

FIG.37 Ignition timing using the averaging method - 4-cylinder with Distributor
2-24 ENGINE PERFORMANCE AND TUNE-UP
form the car’s battery. Two alligator clips
MAGNETIC TIMING PROBE HOLE
connect to the battery terminals, while a third
*4 wire connects to the spark plug with an adapter.
“O" STAMP ON
This type of light is more expensive, but the
POINTER
xenon bulb provides a nice bright flash which
NOTCH IN PULLEY
can even be seen in sunlight. The third type
replaces the battery source with 110 volt house
MAGNETIC TIMING current. Some timing lights have other functions
ASM. MOUNTED TO PROBE HOLE ASM. built into them, such as dwell meters,
FRONT COVER \o tachometers, or remote starting switches. These
are convenient, in that they reduce the tangle of
wires under the hood, but may duplicate the
functions of tools you already have.
Because your car has electronic ignition, you
should use a timing light which has an inductive
pick-up. This type of pick-up merely clamps
FIG.38 Magnetic probe timing hole and marks around the No. 1 spark plug wire, eliminating any
kind of adapter. Other types of timing lights may
cause false timing readings when used with
H.E.I. systems.

« CAUTION
NEVER use a timing light which
requires piercing off the spark plug
wire.

1. Refer to the instructions listed on the

emission control label inside the engine
compartment. Follow all instructions on the
label.
2. Locate the timing marks on the front of the
engine and on the crankshaft balances.
3. Clean off the marks so that they are

REAR VIEW ENGINE 1. Electrical harness

CRANKSHAFT ROTATION i 2. Shim (if applicable)
3. Electrical connector
4. Crankshaft sensor
5. Mounting bolt
6. Engine block
7. Crankshaft slotted
wheel

i r-
FIG.39 Crank shaft sensor position and operation. Timing is not adjustable on vehicles without a Distributor
 ENGINE PERFORMANCE AND TUNE-UP 2-25
readable. Chalk or white paint on the balancer 5. Attach a timing light according to the distributor holddown bolt slightly. Slowly rotate
mark (line) and at the correct point on the timing timing light manufacturer’s instructions. the distributor until the proper setting is attained.
scale will make the marks much easier to Remember that the inductive pick-up is clamped 9. Tighten the holddown bolt, recheck the
accurately align. around the No. 1 spark plug wire. timing and readjust if required.
4. If specified on the emissions label, attach 6. Check that all wiring is clear of the fan, 10. Turn the engine off and disconnect the
a tachometer to the engine according to the then start the engine. Allow the engine to reach timing light (and tachometer, if in use).
tachometer manufacturer’s instructions. normal operating temperature. +■Disregard the short tube which
On 4-cylinder engines, the TACH 7. Aim the timing light at the timing marks. may be integral with the timing
terminal is at the brown wire The line on the crankshaft balancer will line up at scale on some engines. This tube Is
Connection at the Ignition coll; on a timing mark. If the line is within 1° of where it used to connect magnetic timing
V6’s, it Is next to the BAT connector should be, no adjustment is necessary. equipment which is marketed to
on the distributor cap. 8. If adjustment is necessary, loosen the professional shops.

VALVE LASH

Adjustment
EXCEPT 2.8L ENGINE
All models utilize an hydraulic valve lifter
system to obtain zero lash. No adjustment is
necessary. An initial adjustment is required
anytime that the lifters are removed or the valve
train is disturbed, this procedure is covered in
Section 3.
2.8L (173CID) ENGINE
* SEE FIG. 42
Anytime the V6 valve train is disturbed, the
valve lash must be adjusted. Crank the engine
until the timing mark aligns with the O mark on
the timing scale, and both valves in the No. 1
cylinder are closed. If the valves are moving as
the timing marks align, the engine is in the No. 4
firing position. Turn the crankshaft one more
revolution. With the engine in the No. 1 firing
position, adjust the following valves: • Exhaust-4,5,6 pushrod with your fingers while tightening the
• exhaust-1,2,3 • Intake-2,3,4 adjusting nut). When the pushrod cannot be
• intake-1,5,6 Adjustment is made by backing off the rocker freely turned, tighten the nut Vh additional turns
Rotate the crankshaft one full revolution, until arm adjusting nut until there is play in the to place the hydraulic lifter in the center of its
it is in the No. 4 firing position. Adjust the pushrod. Tighten the nut to remove the pushrod travel. No further adjustment is required.
following valves: clearance (this can be determined by rotating the

IDLE SPEED AND MIXTURE ADJUSTMENTS

on the carburetor. Before adjusting, check the models, though this is not part of a normal tune-
Gasoline Engines underhood sticker for any preparations required. up. Be sure to follow the instructions on the
On A/C equipped models which do not have an underhood emissions label to the letter in order
ISC motor, an idle speed solenoid is used. This to properly perform this adjustment.
IDLE SPEED
solenoid is adjusted at the solenoid screw.
Consult the underhood specifications sticker for Fuel Injected Models
special instructions. No idle speed or mixture adjustments are
U.S. Carbureted Models possible on fuel injected engines.
On non-A/C models not equipped with ISC, Canadian Models
the idle speed is adjusted at the idle speed screw The idle speed may be adjusted on Canadian,
2-26 ENGINE PERFORMANCE AND TUNE-UP
MIXTURE ADJUSTMENT holder) and the crankshaft balancer rim.
5. Install the magnetic pick-up probe of tool
J-26925 fully into the rpm counter. Connect the
Carbureted Models battery leads; red to positive (+) and black to
negative (-).
Mixture adjustments are a function of the
Computer Command Control (CCC) system. The 6. Disconnect the two-lead connector at the
idle speed on models equipped with an Idle generator.
Speed Control (ISC) motor is also automatically 7. Turn off all electrical accessories.
adjusted by the Computer Command Control 8. Allow no one to touch either the steering
System, making manual adjustment wheel or service brake pedal.
unnecessary. The underhood specifications 9. Start the engine and place the transmission
sticker will indicate ISC motor use. We strongly selector lever in Drive.
recommend that mixture adjustments be referred 10. Check the slow idle speed reading
to a qualified, professional technician. against the one given on the underhood emission
As on U.S. models, the idle mixture screws
control sticker. Reset if required.
are concealed under hardened plugs and mixture
11. Unplug the connector from the fast idle
adjustments are not normally required. Since
carburetor removal Is necessary in order to gain cold advance (engine temp.) switch and install a
access to the screws, the plug removal and jumper between the connector terminals. Do not
adjustment procedures are covered in Section 5. allow the jumper to touch ground.
The mixture adjustment procedures for U.S. and IDLE ADJUSTMENT 12. Check the fast idle solenoid speed
Canadian models are different. Be sure to follow against the one given on the underhood sticker
the proper procedure. and reset if required.
Adjustments to diesel fuel injection units are 13. Remove the jumper and reconnect the
Fuel Injected Models to be performed only in the case of parts connector to the temperature switch.
No idle speed or mixture adjustments are replacement on the injection unit.
14. Recheck and reset the slow idle speed if
possible on fuel injected engines. 1. Apply the parking brake, place the
necessary.
transmission selector lever in Park and block the
drive wheels. 15. Shut off the engine.
2. Start engine and allow it to run until warm, 16. Reconnect the lead at the generator.
usually 10-15 minutes. 17. Disconnect and remove the tachometer.
3. Shut off the engine, remove the air cleaner 18. If equipped with cmise control adjust the
assembly. servo throttle cable to minimum slack then install
4. Clean the front cover rpm counter (probe the clip on the servo stud.

(
 ENGINE PERFORMANCE AND TUNE-UP 2-27
Diagnosis of Spark Plugs
Problem Possible Cause Correction

Brown to grayish-tan deposits • Normal wear. • Clean, regap, reinstall.

and slight electrode wear.
Dry, fluffy black carbon • Poor ignition output. • Check distributor to coil
deposits. connections.
Wet, oily deposits with very • “Break-in” of new or recently • Degrease, clean and reinstall
little electrode wear. overhauled engine. the plugs.
• Excessive valve stem guide • Refer to Section 3.
clearances.
• Worn intake valve seals. • Replace the seals.
Red, brown, yellow and white • By-products of combustion. • Clean, regap, and reinstall. If
colored coatings on the heavily coated, replace.
insulator. Engine misses
intermittently under severe
operating conditions.
Colored coatings heavily • Leaking seals if condition is • Check the seals. Replace if
deposited on the portion found in only one or two necessary. Clean, regap, and
of the plug projecting into cylinders. reinstall the plugs.
the chamber and on the side
facing the intake valve.
Shiny yellow glaze coating on • Melted by-products of • Avoid sudden acceleration with
the insulator. combustion. wide-open throttle after long
periods of low speed driving.
Replace the plugs.
Burned or blistered insulator • Overheating. • Check the cooling system.
tips and badly eroded • Check for sticking heat riser
electrodes. valves. Refer to Section 1.
• Lean air-fuel mixture.
• Check the heat range of the
plugs. May be too hot.
• Check ignition timing. May be
over-advanced.
• Check the torque value of the
plugs to ensure good plug-
engine seat contact.

Broken or cracked insulator • Heat shock from sudden rise • Replace the plugs. Gap
tips. in tip temperature under correctly.
severe operating conditions.
Improper gapping of plugs.
2-28 ENGINE PERFORMANCE AND TUNE-UP
\
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
Component u.s. Metric
C3I Ignition module: 19 ft. lbs. 25 Nm
C3I Crankshaft sensor: 71 inch lbs. 8 Nm
Crankshaft bolt
3.3L engine: 220 ft. lbs. 300 Nm
3.8L engine: 220 ft. lbs. 300 Nm
DIS Coil pack: 40 inch lbs. 4.5 Nm
DIS Crankshaft sensor: 20 inch lbs. 2.3 Nm
Spark plugs:
Except 2.8L carburated 20 ft. lbs. 27 Nm
2.8L carburated 15 ft. lbs. 17 Nm
ALTERNATOR Valves 3-60
Alternator precautions 3-10 Valve seats 3-61
Operation 3-9 Valve springs 3-60
Removal and installation 3-11 Water pump 3-55
BATTERY 3-11 EXHAUST MANIFOLD 3-50
CAMSHAFT EXHAUST PIPE 3-86
Bearings 3-74 EXHAUST SYSTEM 3-86
Inspection 3-77 FAN 3-55
Removal and installation 3-74 FLYWHEEL AND RING GEAR 3-86
CATALYTIC CONVERTER 3-87 FREEZE PLUGS 3-81
CHARGING SYSTEM 3-9 IGNITION COIL 34
COIL (IGNITION) 34 IGNITION MODULE 3-7
COMPRESSION TESTING 3-26 INTAKE MANIFOLD 344
CONNECTING RODS AND BEARINGS MAIN BEARINGS 3-84
Service 3-77 MANIFOLDS
Specifications 3-32 Intake 3-44
COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR 3-21 Exhaust 3-50
CRANKSHAFT MODULE (IGNITION) 3-7
Service 3-83 MUFFLER 3-88
Specifications 3-32 OIL PAN 3-63
CRANKSHAFT SENSOR 3-18 OIL PUMP 3-65
CYLINDER HEAD OXYGEN SENSOR 3-21
Cleaning and inspection 3-60 PICKUP COIL 34
Removal and installation 3-56 PISTON PIN 3-78
Resurfacing 3-60 PISTONS 3-77
DISTRIBUTOR 3-8 RADIATOR 3-54
ENGINE REAR MAIN OIL SEAL 3-81
Block heater 3-81 RING GEAR 3-86
Camshaft 3-74 RINGS 3-80
Camshaft bearings 3-74 ROCKER ARMS 343
Compression testing 3-26 ROCKER STUDS 343
Connecting rods and bearings 3-77
Crankshaft 3-83
Crankshaft damper 3-66
Cylinder head 3-56
SENDING UNITS AND SENSORS 3-18
SENSOR LOCATIONS 3-19
SPECIFICATIONS CHARTS
Camshaft 3-30
AND
Cylinders 3-80 Crankshaft and connecting rod 3-32
Description 3-25 General engine 3-27
Exhaust manifold 3-50 Piston and ring 3-34
Fan 3-55 Torque 3-36
Flywheel 3-86 Valves 3-29
Freeze plugs 3-81 STARTER
Front (timing) cover 3-67 Brush replacement 3-15
Front seal 3-70 Drive replacement 3-14
Intake manifold 3-44 Overhaul 3-14
Lifters 3-62 Removal and installation 3-13
Main bearings 3-84 Solenoid or relay replacement 3-17
Oil pan 3-63 Troubleshooting 3-12
Oil pump 3-65 STRIPPED THREADS 3-26
Camshaft Specifications
Overhaul techniques 3-25 TAILPIPE 3-88
THERMOSTAT 344 Chart 3-30
Piston pin 3-78
Pistons 3-77 TIMING CHAIN 3-71 Crankshaft and Connecting
Rear main seal 3-81 TIMING GEARS 3-67 Rod Specifications Chart 3-32
Removal and installation 3-37 TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS 3-112
Engine Electrical Systems 3 4
Ring gear 3-86 TROUBLESHOOTING
Rings 3-80 Battery and starting systems 3-93 Engine Mechanical Systems 3 25
Rocker arms 3-43 Charging system 3-93 Engine Torque
Rocker studs 3-43 Cooling system 3-98 Specifications Chart 3 36
Specifications 3-27 Engine mechanical 3-94
Thermostat 3-44 VALVE GUIDES 3-62 Exhaust System 3 86
Timing covers 3-67 VALVE LIFTERS 3-62 General Engine
Timing chain 3-71 VALVE SEATS 3-61 Specifications Chad 3 27
Timing gears 3-71 VALVE SERVICE 3-60
Piston Specifications Chau 3 34
Troubleshooting 3-94 VALVE SPECIFICATIONS 3-29
Valve (rocker) cover 3-41 VALVE SPRINGS 3-61 Piston Ring Specifications
Valve guides 3-62 WATER PUMP 3-55 Chad 3 34
Valve Specifications Chart 3-29
3-2 ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL
Troubleshooting the Cooling System
Problem Cause Solution

High temperature gauge indication— • Coolant level low • Replenish coolant

overheating • Fan belt loose • Adjust fan belt tension
• Radiator hose(s) collapsed • Replace hose(s)
• Radiator airflow blocked • Remove restriction (bug screen,
fog lamps, etc.)
• Faulty radiator cap • Replace radiator cap
• Ignition timing incorrect • Adjust ignition timing
• Idle speed low • Adjust idle speed
• Air trapped in cooling system • Purge air
• Heavy traffic driving • Operate at fast idle in neutral inter¬
mittently to cool engine
• Incorrect cooling system compo¬ • Install proper component(s)
nents) installed
• Faulty thermostat • Replace thermostat
• Water pump shaft broken or • Replace water pump
impeller loose
• Radiator tubes clogged • Flush radiator
• Cooling system clogged • Flush system
• Casting flash in cooling passages • Repair or replace as necessary.
Flash may be visible by remov¬
ing cooling system components
or removing core plugs.
• Brakes dragging • Repair brakes
• Excessive engine friction • Repair engine
• Antifreeze concentration over 68% • Lower antifreeze concentration
percentage
• Missing air seals • Replace air seals
• Faulty gauge or sending unit • Repair or replace faulty
component
• Loss of coolant flow caused by • Repair or replace leaking compo-
leakage or foaming nent, replace coolant
• Viscous fan drive failed • Replace unit
Low temperature indication— • Thermostat stuck open • Replace thermostat
undercooling • Faulty gauge or sending unit • Repair or replace faulty
component
Coolant loss—boilover • Overfilled cooling system • Reduce coolant level to proper
specification
• Quick shutdown after hard (hot) • Allow engine to run at fast idle
run prior to shutdown
• Air in system resulting in occa¬ • Purge system
sional "burping” of coolant
• Insufficient antifreeze allowing • Add antifreeze to raise boiling
coolant boiling point to be too point
low
• Antifreeze deteriorated because of • Replace coolant
age or contamination
• Leaks due to loose hose clamps, • Pressure test system to locate
loose nuts, bolts, drain plugs, source of leak(s) then repair as
faulty hoses, or defective necessary
radiator
 ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL 3-3
Troubleshooting the Cooling System (cont.)
Problem Cause Solution
Coolant loss—boilover • Faulty head gasket • Replace head gasket
• Cracked head, manifold, or block • Replace as necessary
• Faulty radiator cap • Replace cap
Coolant entry into crankcase or • Faulty head gasket • Replace head gasket
cylinder(s) • Crack in head, manifold or block • Replace as necessary
Coolant recovery system inoperative • Coolant level low • Replenish coolant to FULL mark
• Leak in system • Pressure test to isolate leak and
repair as necessary
• Pressure cap not tight or seal • Repair as necessary
missing, or leaking
• Pressure cap defective • Replace cap
• Overflow tube clogged or leaking • Repair as necessary
• Recovery bottle vent restricted • Remove restriction

Noise • Fan contacting shroud • Reposition shroud and inspect

engine mounts
• Loose water pump impeller • Replace pump
• Glazed fan belt • Apply silicone or replace belt
• Loose fan belt • Adjust fan belt tension
• Rough surface on drive pulley • Replace pulley
• Water pump bearing worn • Remove belt to isolate. Replace
pump.
• Belt alignment • Check pulley alignment. Repair as
necessary.
No coolant flow through heater core • Restricted return inlet in water • Remove restriction
pump
• Heater hose collapsed or restricted • Remove restriction or replace hose
• Restricted heater core • Remove restriction or replace core
• Restricted outlet in thermostat • Remove flash or restriction
housing
• Intake manifold bypass hole in • Remove restriction
cylinder head restricted
• Faulty heater control valve • Replace valve
• Intake manifold coolant passage • Remove restriction or replace
restricted intake manifold

NOTE: Immediately after shutdown, the engine enters a condition known as heat soak. This is caused by the cooling
system being inoperative while engine temperature is still high. If coolant temperature rises above boiling point,
expansion and pressure may push some coolant out of the radiator overflow tube. If this does not occur frequently it
is considered normal.
3-4 ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL
THE ENGINE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

The engine electrical system can be broken

down into three separate and distinct systems:
1. The starting system
2. The charging system
3. The ignition system.

HEI Ignition Coil

TESTING

* SEE FIGS. 1 to 3
An ohmmeter with both high and low ranges
should be used for these test. Tests are made
with the cap assembly removed and the battery
wire disconnected. If a tachometer is connected
to the TACH terminal, disconnect it before
making these test.
1. Connect an ohmmeter between the TACH
and BAT terminals in the distributor cap. The
primary coil resistance should be less than 1X1.
2. To check the coil secondary resistance,
connect an ohmmeter between the rotor button
and the BAT terminal. Note the reading. Connect
an ohmmeter between the rotor button and the
TACH terminal. Note the reading. The resistance
in both cases should be between 6,000 and
30,000 ohms. Be sure to test between the rotor
button and both the BAT and TACH terminals.
3. Replace the coil ONLY if the readings in
Step 1 and Step 2 are infinite.
These resistance checks will not
disclose shorted coil windings. This
condition can only be detected with
scope analysis or a suitably
designed coil tester. If these
instruments are not available,
replace the coil with a known good
coil as a final coil test.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

1. Disconnect the feed and module wire

terminal connectors from the distributor cap.
2. Remove the ignition set retainer.
3. Remove the 4 coil cover-to-distributor cap
screws.
5. Using a blunt drift, press the coil wire
spade terminals up out of the distributor cap.
6. Lift the coil up out of the distributor cap.
 ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL 3-5
■

Follow the engine cranks but won’t run charts in

the fuel system section of this manual.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

2.5L, 2.8L and 3.1 L Engines

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

On the 3.1 L engines if battery

power is lost to the engine
computer the Idle learn memory
will be lost, causing poor or no Idle
control. A special Scan Tool, must
be used to perform the Idle learn
procedure. Avoid disconnecting the
battery on 3.1 L whenever possible.
2. Disconnect and tag spark plug wires.
3. Remove ignition coil(s) attaching bolts,
then the ignition coil from the module.
To install:
4. Install the coil(s) and attaching bolts.
7. Remove and clean the coil spring, rubber 5. Connect the spark plug wires.
seal washer and coil cavity of the distributor cap. DIS and C* 1 2 3 4 5 6 7I Ignition 6. Connect the negative battery cable.
8. Coat the rubber seal with a dielectric 7. On 3.1 L engine perform the Idle Learn
Coils Procedure as follows:
lubricant furnished in the replacement ignition
coil package. a. Connect the Scan tool to the ALDL.
9. Reverse the above procedures to install. b. Turn the ignition switch to the ON
position with the engine not running.
TESTING c. In the “Misc. Test” mode, select "IAC
System”, then “Idle Learn”.
d. Proceed with idle learn as directed.
Since the ignition and fuel system are both
controlled by the same computer and the
computer bases it’s ignition and timing on
sensors these systems must be tested together.
3-6 ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL
2. Connect a 12 volts battery and a voltmeter
to the switch, as indicated. Be certain to note the
proper polarity markings.
3. Insert a knife blade between the magnet.
The voltmeter should read within 0.5 volts of
battery voltage. If not, replace the hall effect
switch.
4. Without the knife blade inserted, the
voltmeter should read less than 0.5 volts. If not,
replace the hall effect switch.

EST Performance

TESTING

The ECM will set timing at a specified value

when the diagnostic TEST terminal in the ALDL
connector is grounded. To check for EST
operation, run the engine at 2000 rpm with the
terminal ungrounded. Note the ignition timing.
Then, ground the TEST terminal and again note
the timing. If the EST is operating, there should
be a noticeable engine rpm change. A fault in the
EST system will set a trouble Code 42.
3.3L Engine
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Hall Effect Switch
Pickup Coil
2. Tag and disconnect spark plug wires.
* SEE FIG. 4
3. Remove ignition coil(s) attaching bolts, t SEE FIG. 5
then the ignition coil from the module.
TESTING
To install: TESTING
4. Install the coil(s) and attaching bolts.
5. Connect the spark plug wires. 1. Remove the hall effect switch from the
6. Connect the negative battery cable. distributor. 1. Remove the rotor and pickup coil leads
from the module.

Fig. 5 Testing pick-up coil - HEI type-2

distributor
 ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL 3-7
ECM

BAROMETRIC PRESSURE

MANIFOLD VACUUM

PICKUP COOLANT TEMPERATURE

—■
COIL
CRANKSHAFT POSITION
(RPM) iki
COMPENSATED E
BATTERY- IGNITION SPARK S
T
IGNITION COIL TIMING SIGNAL
TRIGGER SIGNAL* SIGNAL
'' CONVERTER
BYPASS DISABLE
T
I ABOVE 200 RPM
S VOLT [AFTER 6-IS SEC
ORD
HEI MODULE (7 TERMINAL)
J
Fig. 7 EST control circuit functional diagram

OHMMETER QHMMETER
2. Using an ohmmeter, test as follow:
~ 2H PICKUP COIL LEADS a. Connect 1 lead of the ohmmeter
! DISCONNECTED
between the distributor housing and 1 of the
pickup coil lead. Meter should read infinity.
Flex the leads by hand while observing the
ohmmeter, to check for intermittent opens.
b. Connect the ohmmeter between leads
between both of the pickup coil leads. Meter
should read a steady value between 500—
1500 ohms.
3. If the readings are not as specified, the
pickup coil is defective and should be replaced.

HEI Module
t SEE FIG. 8

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

Fig. 5a Testing pick-up coil - coil in cap type distributor

1. Remove the distributor cap and rotor as
previously described.
2. Disconnect the harness connector and
pickup coil spade connectors from the module.
Be careful not to damage the wires when
removing the connector.
3. Remove the two screws and module from
the distributor housing.
4. Coat the bottom of the new module with
dielectric lubricant supplied with the new
module. Reverse the above procedure to install.
3-8 ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL
7. Install the nuts and washers attaching the 3. Place a jack under the engine cradle then
DIS Ignition Module assembly to the bracket. extend the jack so that it just touches the cradle.
8. Connect the spark plug wires. The jack must not block any of the engine cradle
9. Connect the 14-way connector to the bolts.
module. 4. Remove the two rear engine cradle
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 10. Connect the negative battery cable. attaching bolts and lower the cradle just enough
to gain access to the distributor.
5. Remove the five screws which attach the
2.5L, 2.8L and 3.1 L Engines Distributor brake line support to the floorpan.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 6. Remove the coil wire from the distributor.
7. Remove the distributor cap.
On the 3.1 L engines If battery
8. Mark the position of the rotor firing tip on
power is lost to the engine
the distributor body, then mark the relationship
computer the Idle learn memory REMOVAL between the distributor body and some on the
will be lost, causing poor or no idle
engine.
control. A special Scan Tool, must
be used to perform the Idle learn
procedure. Avoid disconnecting the 4'Cylinder Engines
** WARNING
battery on 3.1 L whenever possible. 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Raise the front of the vehicle and support DO NOT attempt to crank the
2. Remove the DIS assembly from the
is safely with jackstands. DO NOT place the engine while the distributor Is
engine.
jackstands under the engine cradle. removed.
3. Remove the coils from the assembly.
4. Remove DIS module from the assembly
plate.
To install:
5. Install the DIS module to the assembly
plate.
6. Install the coils to the assembly.
7. Install the DIS assembly to the engine.
8. Connect the negative battery cable.
9. On 3.1 L engine perform the Idle Learn
Procedure as follows:
a. Connect the Scan tool to the ALDL.
b. Turn the ignition switch to the ON
position with the engine not running.
c. In the “Misc. Test” mode, select “IAC
System”, then “Idle Learn”.
d. Proceed with idle learn as directed.

C* 1 2 3I Ignition Module

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

3.3L Engine
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Disconnect the 14-way connector at the
ignition module.
3. Tag and disconnect the spark plug wires at 1. Distributor cap 9. Pole piece and plate assy,
2. Screw (pick-up coil)
the coil assembly. 10. Seal
3. Rotor
4. Remove the nuts and washers securing 4. Bushing 11. Module
the Cul module assembly to the bracket. 5. Distributor shaft 12. Housing assembly
5. Remove the 6 bolts attaching the coil 6. Retainer 13. O-ring
7. Distributor shaft 14. Washer
assemblies to the ignition module.
8. Wiring harness 15. Distributor gear
To install: 16. Pin
6. Install the coil assemblies to the ignition Fig. 6 Exploded view of 4 cylinder distributor
module and install the 6 attaching bolts.
 ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL 3-9
9. Loosen the distributor holddown clamp cap. On the V6, position the firing tip between the at the alternator output, the alternator’s field is
bolt and slide the holddown clamp aside to clear Nos.1 and 6 towers of the cap. wired in series with the voltage regulator.
the distributor body. 5. Install the distributor and follow steps 3 Alternators are self-limiting as far as maximum
10. Lift the distributor out of the engine and through 6 of the first (previous) installation current is concerned.
mark the point at which the rotor stops turning procedure to complete the installation.
while you’re pulling upward. The rotor will have
to be positioned at this same spot in order to SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
install the distributor correctly. The Charging System
V6 Engines Observing these precautions will ensure safe
The automobile charging system provides
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable at electrical power for operation of the vehicle’s handling of the electrical system components,
the battery. ignition and starting systems and all the and will avoid damage to the vehicle’s electrical
2. Release the distributor and ignition coil electrical accessories. The battery serves as an system:
electrical connections at the distributor cap. electrical surge or storage tank, storing (in a. Be absolutely sure of the polarity of a
3. Follow steps 8 through 10 of the previous chemical form) the energy originally produced booster battery before making connections.
procedure to complete the removal of the by the engine driven A.C. (alternator). The Connect the cables positive to positive, and
distributor. system also provides a means of regulating negative to negative. Connect positive cables
alternator output to protect the battery from being first and then make the last connection to a
overcharged and to avoid excessive voltage to ground on the body of the booster vehicle so
INSTALLATION - ENGINE the accessories. that arcing cannot ignite hydrogen gas that
The storage battery is a chemical device may have accumulated near the battery. Even
NOT DISTURBED momentary connection of a booster battery
incorporating parallel lead plates in a tank
containing a sulfuric acid/water solution. with the polarity reserved will damage
1. Align the ignition rotor with the mark made Adjacent plates are slightly dissimilar, and the alternator diodes.
during the previous step 10. chemical reaction of the two dissimilar plates b. Disconnect both vehicle battery cables
2. Install the distributor into the engine, noting produces electrical energy when the battery is before attempting to charge a battery.
that the marks made during the previous step 8 connected to a load such as the starter motor. c. Never ground the alternator output or
must align. If they don’t line up the first time, The chemical reaction is reversible, so that when battery terminal. Be cautious when using
remove the distributor and try again. the alternator is producing a voltage (electrical metal tools around a battery to avoid creating
3. Reposition the holddown clamp on the pressure) greater than that produced by the a short circuit between the terminals.
distributor body and tighten the bolt until the battery, electricity is forced into the battery, and d. Never run an alternator or generator
distributor is snug, but can be moved with a little the battery is returned to its fully charged state. without load unless the field circuit is
effort. The vehicle’s alternator is driven disconnected.
4. Connect all wiring to the distributor, and on mechanically, through belts, by the engine e. Never attempt to polarize an alternator.
four cylinder models, jack the engine cradle back crankshaft. It consists of two coils of fine wire,
into place, install the engine cradle bolts and the cone stationary (the stator), and one movable
brake line support bolts. (the rotor). The rotor may also be known as the Alternator
5. Connect the battery cable and lower the armature, and consists of fine wire wrapped
vehicle if necessary. Two of the serviceable models are the SI
around an iron core which is mounted on a shaft.
6. Adjust the ignition timing as previously series alternator are used. The 10 SI, 12SI, 15 SI
The electricity which flows through the two coils
outlined. and 17 SI are of similar construction; the 15 SL
of wire (provided initially by the battery in some
and 17 SI are slightly larger, use different stator
cases) creates an intense magnetic field around
windings, and produce more current. The new
both rotor and stator, and the interaction
CS series, CS130, require no periodic
INSTALLATION - ENGINE between the two fields creates voltage, allowing
maintenance. The CS series can only be
DISTURBED WITH the generator to power the accessories and
serviced as a complete unit, no internal repair
charges the battery.
DISTRIBUTOR REMOVED Newer automobiles, including your car, use
parts are available.
The procedures for overhaul included in this
alternating current alternators because they are
manual only cover the the older style alternators
1. Remove the spark plug from the No. 1 efficient, can be rotated at high speeds, and have
used before 1987 that General Motors
cylinder. few brush problems. In an alternator, the field
recommended servicing. General Motors does
2. Place your thumb over the spark plug hole rotates while all the current produced passes
not advise servicing the newer type alternator
and turn the crankshaft by hand with a wrench only through the stator windings. The brushes
bear against continuous slip rings rather than a and does not provide parts for them. Before
until pressure is felt at the plug hole.
commutator. This causes the current produced attempting to service or disassemble any
3. Look at the timing marks on the front of the electrical component always check on the cost
engine and check to see if the balancer slash is to periodically reverse the direction of its flow.
Diodes (electrical one-way switches) block the and availability of replacement parts. A complete
aligned with the 0 on the timing scale. If rebuilt or new unit may be more cost effective
necessary, turn the crankshaft until it does align. flow of current from traveling in the wrong
direction. A series of diodes is wired together to than trying the safe the defective part.
4. On the four cylinder engine, turn the rotor
until the rotor firing tip is positioned between the permit the alternating flow of the stator to be
converted to a pulsating, but unidirectional flow
Nos. 1 and 3 spark plug towers of the distributor
3-10 ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL
PRECAUTIONS

1. When installing a battery, make sure that

the positive and negative cables are not
reversed.
2. When jump-starting the car, be sure that
like terminals are connected. This also applies to
using a battery charger. Reverse polarity will
burn out the alternator and regulator in a matter
of seconds.
3. Never operate the alternator with the
battery disconnected or on an otherwise
uncontrolled open circuit.
4. Do not short across or ground any
alternator or regulator terminals.
5. Do not try to polarize the alternator.
6. Do not apply full battery voltage to the field
(brown) connector.
7. Always disconnect the battery ground
cable before disconnecting the alternator lead.
8. Always disconnect the battery (negative
cable first) when charging it.
9. Never subject the alternator to excessive

1. Rotor 9. Pulley 17. Stator

2. Front bearing retainer 10. Lockwasher 18. Insulating washer
3. Inner collar 11. Pulley nut 19. Capacitor
4. Bearing 12. Terminal assembly 20. Diode trio
5. Washer 13. Rectifier bridge 21. Rear housing
6. Front housing 14. Regulator 22. Through bolt
7. Outer collar 15. Brush assembly 23. Bearing and seal assembly
8. Fan 16. Screw 24. Terminal assembly

Fig. 9 Exploded view of the 10-SI alternator

 ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL 3-11
plates held a short distance apart in a solution of
sulfuric acid and water. The two types of plates
are of dissimilar metals. This causes a chemical
reaction to set up, and it is this reaction which
produces current flow from the battery when its
positive and negative terminals are connected to
an electrical appliance such as a lamp or motor.
The continued transfer of electrons would
eventually convert the sulfuric acid in the
electrolyte to water, and make the two plates
identical in chemical composition. As electrical
energy is removed from the battery, its voltage
output tends to drop. Thus, measuring battery
voltage and battery electrolyte composition are
two ways of checking the ability of the unit to
supply power. During the starting of the engine,
electrical energy is removed from the battery.
However, if the charging circuit is in good
condition and the operating conditions are
normal, the power removed from the battery will
be replaced by the generator (or alternator)
which will force electrons back through the
battery, reversing the normal flow, and restoring
the battery to its original chemical state.
The battery and starting motor are linked by
very heavy electrical cables designed to
minimize resistance to the flow of current. The
GENERATOR major power supply cable that leaves the battery
Fig. 10 CS Series charging system diagram goes directly to the starter, while other electrical
system needs are supplied by a smaller cable.
During the starter operation, power flows from
heat or dampness. If you are steam cleaning the 8. On gasoline engined models, remove the the battery to the starter and is grounded through
engine, cover the alternator. alternator pivot bolt and remove the alternator. the car’s frame and the battery’s negative ground
10. Never use arc-welding equipment on the 9. On diesel models, remove both alternator strap.
car with the alternator connected. attaching bolts and remove the alternator.
10. Installation is the reverse of removal. Be
sure to adjust the tension of the drive belt REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION properly, then tighten the adjusting bolt(s) (on
gasoline engined models).
1. Raise the hood and remove the front end
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. diagonal brace(s) from above the battery(ies).
2. Remove the two-terminal plug and the
battery leads from the rear of the alternator. Regulator 2. Disconnect the battery cables from the
battery(ies). It may be necessary to use a small
3. Remove the adjusting bolt from the box end wrench or a V4 in. drive ratchet to sneak
A solid regulator is mounted within the
alternator on gasoline engined models. The in between the battery and the windshield
alternator. All regulator components are
adjusting bolt is the one within the slotted hole. washer (or coolant recovery) tank. Avoid using
enclosed in a solid mold. The regulator is non-
4. On diesel equipped models, fit the end of an open-end wrench for the cable bolts.
adjustable and requires no maintenance.
a ratchet extension into the square hole of the 3. Loosen and remove the battery holddown
belt tensioner bracket, then attach a ratchet to bolt and block. The use of a long extension
the extension. Lever the tensioner towards the which places the ratchet above the battery
firewall side of the engine compartment and Battery
makes it very easy to get to the holddown bolt.
remove the serpentine drive belt from the 4. Carefully lift the battery from the engine
The battery is the first link in the chain of
alternator. compartment. It may be necessary to remove
mechanisms which work together to provide
5. On gasoline engined models, move the the air cleaner intake duct (except 4-cyl.) or the
cranking of the automobile engine. In most
alternator to loosen the drive belt, then remove intake resonator (4-cyl. only) for clearance.
modern cars, the battery is a lead-acid electro¬
the belt.
chemical device consisting of six two-volt (2V)
6. On four cylinder models, remove the upper
subsections connected in series so the unit is
alternator bracket.
capable of producing approximately 12 volts of
7. On diesel models, remove the alternator
electrical pressure. Each subsection, or cell,
brace bolt from the rear of the alternator.
consists of a series of positive and negative
3-12 ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL

NO CRANKING, NO SOUND FROM SOLENOID

 ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL 3-13
flywheel ring gear via a collar and spring. If the 3. Remove the lower starter shield nut and
Starter teeth on the pinion and flywheel match properly, flex the starter shield for access during removal.
t SEE FIGS. 11 to 17 the pinion will engage the flywheel immediately. 4. Mark and disconnect the wires from the
If the gear teeth butt one another, the spring will starter.
The starting motor is a specially designed,
direct current electric motor capable of be compressed and will force the gears to mesh 5. Remove the front starter attaching bolt.
producing a very great amount of power for its as soon as the starter turns far enough to allow 6. Loosen the rear starter attaching bolt and
them to do so. As the solenoid plunger reaches remove the starter assembly, leaving the rear
size. One thing that allows the motor to produce
a great deal of power is its tremendous rotating the end of its travel, it closes the contacts that bolt in the starter housing.
speed. It drives the engine through a tiny pinion connect the battery and starter and then the 7. Installation is the reverse of removal.
engine is cranked.
gear (attached to the starter’s armature), which 1983-85
drives the very large flywheel ring gear at a As soon as the engine starts, the flywheel ring
gear begins turning fast enough to drive the 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable(s)
greatly reduced speed. Another factor allowing it from the battery(s).
to produce so much power is that only pinion at an extremely high rate of speed. At this
point, the one-way clutch begins allowing the 2. Install tool J—28467 to the engine, then
intermittent operation is required of it. Thus, little
pinion to spin faster than the starter shaft so that raise the vehicle on a hoist.
allowance for air circulation is required, and the
the starter will not operate at excessive speed. 3. Remove the left and the center engine
windings can be built into a very small space.
When the ignition switch is released from the mounting stud nuts.
The starter solenoid is a magnetic device
start position, the solenoid is de-energized, and 4. Move the intermediate shaft seal upwards,
which employs the small current supplied by the
a spring contained within the solenoid assembly then remove the intermediate shaft-to-stud shaft
starting switch circuit of the ignition switch. This
pulls the gear out of mesh and interrupts the pinch bolt and disconnect the shaft from the
magnetic action moves a plunger which
current flow to the starter. gear.
mechanically engages the starter and electrically
closes the heavy switch which connects it to'the
battery. The starting switch circuit consists of
the starting switch contained within the ignition REMOVAL & INSTALLATION ** CAUTION
switch, a transmission neutral safety switch or It Is necessary to disconnect the
clutch pedal switch, and the wiring necessary to intermediate shaft from the rack
connect these with the starter solenoid or relay. Diesel Engine and pinion stud shaft; otherwise,
A pinion, which is a small gear, is mounted to damage to the steering gear and/or
a one-way drive clutch. This clutch is splined to 1982
the intermediate shaft can occur,
the starter armature shaft. When the ignition 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable(s). which may result In the loss of
switch is moved to the start position, the 2. Raise the front of the vehicle and support steering control.
solenoid plunger slides the pinion toward the it safely with jackstands.

5 \O 10 /
11

/ / M.

/ 22 2:
a •

20
21. Drive end bushing
1. Frame, commutator 15. Brush attaching 22. Pinion stop collar
end 7. Solenoid Switch screw 23. Trust collar
2. Brush and holder 8. Armature 16. Field lead screw 24. Grommet
Pkg. 9. Drive assembly 17. Switch attaching 25. Grommet
3. Brush 10. Plunger screw 26. Plunger pin
4. Brush holder 11. Shift lever 18. Brake washer 27. Pinion stop retainer
5. Housing, drive end 12. Plunger return spring 19. Bolt ring
6. Frame and field 13. Shift lever shaft 20. Commutator end 28. Lever shaft retaining
assembly 14. Lock washer bushing ring

FIG. 11 Exploded view of the 5MT starter

3-14 ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL
Diesel Aluminum Starter
(Type 2)
After the field coil connector nut and the two
solenoid attaching screws are removed, pull the
solenoid upward and forward to remove it
Installation is simply a matter of bolting the
solenoid into place, fastening the field coil
connector and reinstalling the starter. It is
recommended by G.M., however, to check the
pinion position as outline (Step 35a-35e of the
Diesel Type 2 assembly procedure).

STARTER OVERHAUL -
GASOLINE ENGINES

Drive Replacement
1. Disconnect the field coil straps from the
solenoid.
2. Remove the through-bolts, and separate
the commutator end frame, field frame
assembly, drive housing, and armature
assembly from each other.
3. Slide the thrust washer off the end of the
armature shaft.
4. Slide a suitably metal cylinder, such as a
standard half-inch pipe coupling, or an old
pinion, on the shaft so that the end of the
coupling or pinion butts up against the edge of
the pinion retainer.
5. Support the lower end of the armature
securely on a soft surface, such as a wood
block, and tap the end of the coupling or pinion,
driving the retainer towards the armature end of
the snapring.
6. Remove the snapring from the groove in
the armature shaft with a pair of pliers. Then,
slide the retainer and starter drive from the shaft.
7. To reassemble, lubricate the drive end of
the armature shaft with silicone lubricant, and
then slide the starter drive onto the shaft with the
pinion facing outward. Slide the retainer onto the
shaft with the cupped surface facing outward.
8. Again, support the armature on a soft
surface, with the pinion at the upper end. Center
the snapring on the top of the shaft (use a new
snap if the original was damaged during
removal). Gently place a block of wood flat on
top of the snapring so as not to move it from a
centered position. Tap the wooden block with a
hammer in order to force the snapring around the
shaft. Then, slide the ring down into the snapring
groove.
9. Lay the armature down flat on the surface
you’re working on. Slide the retainer up on to the
shaft and position it and the thrust collar next to
the snapring. Using two pairs of pliers on
opposite sides of the shaft, squeeze the thrust
 ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL 3-15
collar and the retainer together until the snapring STARTER OVERHAUL - 17. Place the drive shaft washer over the
is forced into the retainer. drive shaft on the side of the gear opposite the
DIESEL TYPE ONE
10. Lube the drive housing bushing with a drive assembly. Lubricate the gear teeth with
silicone lubricant. Then, install the armature and G.M. #1960954 lubricant or its equivalent.
clutch assembly into the drive housing, engaging 18. Assemble the gear housing with the
The Type One diesel starter Is
the solenoid shift lever with the clutch, and attaching screws.
identified by having a cast Iron
positioning the front end of armature shaft into housing, whereas the Type Two 19. Assemble the solenoid to the drive
the bushing. unit covered later, has an housing.
11. Apply a sealing compound approved for aluminum housing. 20. Lubricate the bushing in the commutator
this application onto the drive housing; then end frame with the same lubricant mentioned
position the field frame around the armature Drive Replacement previously.
shaft and against the drive housing. Work slowly 1. Remove the starter from the vehicle as 21. Assemble the armature, field frame and
and carefully to prevent damaging the starter previously outlined. the commutator end frame to the gear housing
brushes. 2. Remove the screw from the field coil with the through-bolts.
12. Lubricate the bushing in the commutator connector strap at the solenoid. 22. Attach the field coil connector to the
end frame with a silicone lubricant, place the 3. Separate the field frame assembly from the solenoid terminal. Install the starter assembly as
leather brake washer onto the armature shaft, drive gear assembly. previously outlined.
and then slide the commutator end frame over 4. Remove the solenoid mounting screws, Brush Replacement
the shaft and into position against the field frame. turn the solenoid 90° and remove the solenoid.
Line up the bolt holes, and then install and 1. Please follow steps 1-5 of the last Drive
5. Remove the shift lever shaft retaining ring,
tighten the through-bolts. Replacement procedure in order to separate the
lever shaft, and the housing through-bolts in
13. Reconnect the field coil straps to the field coil and frame assembly from the armature.
order to separate the drive assembly, drive
motor terminal of the solenoid. housing and gear housing. 2. Remove the commutator end frame in
6. Remove the thrust washer or collar from order to gain access to the brushes.
p* If replacement of the starter drive 3. Remove the brush holder pivot pin which
fails to cure the Improper the drive shaft, in front of the drive assembly.
positions one insulated and one grounded brush.
engagement of the starter pinion to 7. Slide a * 1 2 3 * 5/s in. deep socket (or a piece of
4. Remove the brush spring.
the flywheel, there are probably suitably sized pipe) over the shaft and against
5. Replace the brushes as required, then
defective parts In the solenoid and/ the retainer.
reinstall the brush spring and the pivot pin.
or shift lever. The best procedure 8. Tap the socket (or pipe) to move the
6. Repeat steps 3,4, and 5 for the remaining
would probably be to take the retainer off the snapring.
pair of brushes.
assembly to a shop where a pinion 9. Remove the snapring from the groove in
7. Re-assemble the remaining starter
clearance check can be made by the shaft. If the ring becomes distorted during
components in the reverse of removal.
energizing the solenoid on a test removal, it must be replaced with a new ring
bench. If the pinion clearance is during assembly.
incorrect, disassemble the 10. Remove the starter drive assembly from
solenoid and the shift lever, the shaft.
STARTER OVERHAUL -
Inspect, and replace worn parts. 11. Slide the new drive assembly onto the DIESEL TYPE TWO
drive shaft, then place the snapring retainer over
Brush Replacement the shaft with the cupped side of the retainer
1. After removing the starter from the engine, facing away from the gear of the drive unit. r+ The Type Two diesel starter Is
disconnect the field coil from the motor solenoid 12. Position the armature upright (drive unit identified by having an aluminum
terminal. facing upward), resting the lower end on a block housing.
2. Remove the starter through-bolts and of wood. Drive and Brush Replacement
remove the commutator end frame and washer. 13. Center the snapring on the top of the
3. Remove the field frame and the armature shaft. Remember that a new ring should be used i*- G.M. special tool #J-22888 and a
assembly from the drive housing. if the old one was damaged during removal. dial indicator will be needed to
4. Remove the brush holder pivot pin which 14. Carefully place a block of wood on the properly assemble the starter.
positions one insulated and one grounded brush. ring then tap on the block of wood (using a light 1. Remove the starter assembly from the
5. Remove the brush springs. hammer) to force the ring onto the shaft. Slide vehicle as previously outlined.
6. Remove the brushes. the ring down into the snapring groove. 2. Remove the nut from the field coil
7. Installation is in the reverse order of 15. Place the thrust collar onto the drive connector at the solenoid.
removal. shaft, then squeeze the thrust collar and retainer 3. Remove the two solenoid mounting
together, which will force the retainer over the screws then remove the solenoid by pulling it
snapring. upward and forward.
16. Assemble the plunger and shift lever into
the drive housing with the lever shaft and the
retaining ring.
3-16 ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL
8. Mark and disconnect the wires from the 6. Remove the 4 bolts holding the dust
starter. Remove the starter mounting bolts and covers. Remove the dust covers.
the starter. 7. Remove the 2 bolts attaching the starter.
9. To install, reverse the removal procedures. 8. On the 2.5L engine, remove the bolt
Torque the stub shaft pinch bolt to 45 ft. lbs. (62 attaching the starter bracket to the engine.
Nm.) and the starter-to-engine bolts to 32 ft. lbs. 9. Remove the starter and any shims.
(43 Nm.). To install:

1982-85 Except Diesel Engines If replacing the starter, transfer

the starter bracket to the new
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
starter.
2. Raise the front of the vehicle and support
it safely with jackstands. 10. Install the starter and any shims.
3. From underneath the vehicle, remove the 11. Install the 2 starter attaching bolts.
two starter motor-to-engine bolts and carefully 12. On the 2.5L engine, install the bolt
lower the starter. Note the location of shims (if attaching the starter bracket to the engine.
so equipped). 13. Install the dust cover and 4 attaching
4. On the four cylinder engine, remove the nut bolts.
that holds the starter bracket to the rear of the 14. Connect the battery cable and solenoid
starter. wires.
5. Mark and disconnect all wiring at the 15. Lower the vehicle.
starter. 16. Roll the engine forward and replace the
6. Installation is the reverse of removal. engine brace bolts.
17. Connect the negative battery cable.
1986-92
3.1 L ENGINE
2.5L AND 2.8L ENGINES 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
2. Raise and safely support the vehicle. 3. If equipped, remove the nut from the brace
5. Remove the 2 front cradle mounting bolts, 3. Disconnect the solenoid wires and battery at the air conditioning compressor.
then lower the cradle at the front to gain access cable from the starter. 4. If equipped, remove the nuts from the
to the flywheel cover bolts. 4. Remove the bolt from the engine cross starter-to-engine brace.
6. Remove the flywheel cover bolts and the brace. 5. Remove the drain pan under the engine oil
cover. 5. Place a prybar tool between the upper pan.
7. Remove the starter shield nut from the engine mount and engine to pry rearward and 6. Disconnect the oil pressure sending unit
starter and the flex shield. support the engine. electrical connector. Remove the oil pressure
sending unit.
7. Remove the oil filter.
8. Remove the bolts from the flywheel
inspection cover. Remove the inspection cover.
9. Remove the bolts from the starter motor.
10. Remove the starter motor and any shims.
11. Disconnect the starter motor electrical
connectors.
To install:
12. Connect the starter motor electrical
connectors.
13. Install the starter motor and any shims.
14. Install the starter motor attaching bolts.
Tighten to 32 ft. lbs. (43 Nm).
15. Install the flywheel inspection cover and
attaching bolts.
16. Install the oil filter.
17. Install the oil pressure sending unit.
Connect the electrical connector.
18. Install the drain pan.
19. Install the nuts to the starter-to-engine
brace.
20. Install the nut to brace at the air
conditioner compressor.
21. Lower the vehicle.
22. Connect the negative battery cable.
 ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL 3-17
23. Check the engine oil level, add as
required.
3.3L ENGINE
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Properly discharge the air conditioning
system.
3. On 3.3L engine, remove the cooling fan
assembly.
4. Remove the front exhaust manifold.
5. Raise and support the vehicle safely.
6. Remove the bolts from the flywheel
inspection cover and remove the cover.
7. Disconnect the air conditioner condenser
hose from the compressor and position aside.
8. Disconnect the starter motor electrical
connectors.
9. Remove the 2 bolts attaching the starter.
10. Remove the starter and any shims.
To install:
11. Install the starter motor and any shims.
12. Install the 2 bolts attaching the starter.
Tighten to 30 ft. lbs. (40 Nm).
13. Connect the starter motor electrical
connectors.
14. Replace the condenser O-ring. Lubricate
with refrigerant oil. Connect the air conditioner
condenser hose to the compressor.
15. Install the flywheel inspection cover and
attaching bolts.
16. Lower the vehicle.
17. Install the front exhaust manifold.
18. On 3.3L engine, install the cooling fan
•gj assembly.
19. Evacuate, recharge and leak test the air
Fig. 14a There is not much room for tools. Make certain to use the correct size wrench, for conditioning system.
starter solenoid wiring 20. Connect the negative battery cable.

SOLENOID REMOVAL AND

INSTALLATION

Except Diesel Aluminum Starter

1. Remove the starter and solenoid assembly
as previously outlined.
2. Remove the screw and washer from the
motor connector strap terminal.
3. Remove the two screws which retain the
solenoid housing to the encf frame assembly.
4. Twist the solenoid clockwise to remove
the flange key from the keyway slot in the
housing.
5. Remove the solenoid assembly.
6. With the solenoid return spring installed on
the plunger, position the solenoid body on the
drive housing and turn it counterclockwise to
engage the flange key in the key way slot.
7. Install the two screws which retain the
solenoid housing to the end frame.
3-18 ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL
In some cases, shims will be To assemble the starter: must align with the locating ribs of the center
present between the solenoid and The lubricant mentioned during housing.
the drive end housing. These shims assembly should be G.M. #1960954 30. Pry the brush spring back, which will
are used to set the drive pinion or Its equivalent. allow the brushes to seat against the
position. commutator bars of the armature.
18. Lubricate the splines and bearing 31. Position the commutator end frame
4. Remove the two through bolts and the two surfaces of the pinion shaft/overrunning clutch, onto the field frame, aligning the marks made
brush holder retaining screws. Remove the the nylon lever holders and both ends of the during disassembly.
commutator end frame from the armature and lever. 32. Install and tighten the two brush holder
bearing assembly. 19. Install the lever assembly on the screws, then the through bolts.
5. Remove the field frame assembly and the overrunning clutch (see the accompanying 33. Install the solenoid switch and shims
armature from the center housing. illustration). The lever MUST be installed as onto the drive end housing. Make sure that the
6. Carefully pry each brush spring back so shown; if not, the clutch mechanism could lock slot of the solenoid plunger engages with the
that each brush can be backed away from the during operation. top of the lever. Install and tighten the solenoid
armature about V4 in. (6mm). Release the spring 20. Install the pinion shaft/overrunning clutch retaining bolts.
to hold the brushes in the backed out position, and lever assembly into the drive end housing.
then remove the armature from the field frame 34. Connect the field coil connector to the
21. Slide the spring, drive pinion and stopper solenoid switch terminal.
and brush holder. (in that order) over the pinion shaft, making sure 35. Because the starter has been
7. Remove the cover retaining screws, cover, that the cupped side of the stopper faces the end disassembled, it is necessary to check the
C-washer and plate from the armature side of the of the shaft.
center housing. pinion position as follows:
22. Press the drive pinion and stopper a. Connect one 12V lead of a battery to
8. Remove the two center housing bolts, the towards the drive end housing and install the
center housing and the shim thrust washers. the terminal marked S on the solenoid.
snapring into the groove of the pinion shaft. Momentarily touch the other 12V lead to the
9. Remove the reduction gear, spring holder 23. Using tool J—22888, force the drive starter frame. This action will shift the drive
and two lever springs. pinion towards the end of the pinion shaft, which pinion into its cranking position until one of the
10. Slide a 5/s in. socket or suitably sized will force the stopper over the snapring. It may
piece of pipe over the nose of the pinion shaft, battery leads is disconnected. DO NOT leave
be necessary to tap the ring with a drift pin to the pinion in the cranking position for more
against the drive pinion stopper. seat the ring in the groove of the stopper. than 30 seconds at a time.
11. Tap on the socket (or pipe) to drive the 24. Install the two lever springs and the b. With the pinion in the cranking position,
stopper off of the snapring. Using a pair of spring holder into the drive end housing.
snapring pliers, remove the drive pinion snapring set up a dial indicator as shown, then zero the
25. Lubricate the reduction gear teeth, then indicator needle.
from the groove in the pinion shaft. install the gear and shim thrust washer(s) onto c. Push the pinion shaft back by hand and
If the ring becomes distorted the pinion shaft assembly. record the amount of movement indicated by
during removal, It must be replaced 26. Position the center housing to the drive the indicator needle. Detach one of the battery
with a new ring during assembly. end housing and install the two attaching bolts. leads to bring the drive pinion back to its off
12. Remove the stopper, drive pinion gear 27. Check the end-play of the pinion shaft as position.
and spring. follows: d. The indicator reading should have been
13. Remove the pinion shaft/overrunning a. Install the plate and the C-shaped between 0.020-0.080 in. (0.50-2.00mm).
clutch from the drive end housing. washer onto the pinion shaft. The clearance is adjusted by adding or
To replace the brushes: b. With the drive end housing suitably removing shims between the solenoid and the
14. Remove the brush holder and the supported, insert an appropriately sized feeler front bracket. Shims are available in 0.010 in.
gauge between the C-washer and the cover (0.25mm) and 0.020 in. (0.50mm)
negative brush assembly from the field frame by
removing the positive brushes from the brush plate. Using a screwdriver, move the pinion thicknesses.
holder. shaft axially to determine the total end play. e. If a shim thickness adjustment was
Try different sized feeler gauges until the required, reinstall the solenoid with the new
15. Cut the old positive brush leads from the
thickest gauge fits the clearance. Total end- shims and repeat the clearance check.
field coil bar as close to the brush connection
play should be 0.004-0.020 in. (0.10—
point as possible; cut the negative brush leads
0.50mm). Replace or remove the shim thmst
from the brush holder plate.
washers as required to bring the clearance
16. Connection tangs are provided for
within specification.
Sending Units and
installation of new brushes. Clean the connection
c. Remove the cover plate (if it is not Sensors
tangs then solder the new brush leads on the
already removed) and fill the cover Vz full with
tangs. Use only high temperature solder to
lubricant.
connect the new brushes, and make sure that the | SEE FIGS. 18 to 23
d. Reinstall the cover and install and
positive brush connections are made properly in
tighten the two cover bolts. REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
order to prevent grounding of the brush
28. Install the armature by carefully
connection.
engaging the splines of the shaft with the
17. Reinstall the positive and the negative
reduction gear.
brushes in the brush holder assembly. Position Crankshaft Sensor
the brushes in the backed-out position as 29. Position the field frame and brush
described earlier. holder assembly on the center housing, noting 2.5L, 2.8L AND 3.1 L ENGINES
that the rubber grommet for the field coil lead 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL 3-19
3-20 ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL

1. Differential lock
vacuum solenoid
(AWD) 5. Power steering 15. Oxygen sensor
2. Differential lock pressure switch 9. Neutral start switch connector
connector (PSPS) 10. Alternator lead 16. Oxygen sensor
3. Vehicle speed 6. PSPS connector 11. Boot 17. Injector connector
sensor (WS) 7. Detonation sensor 12. Alternator 18. Temperature sensor
4. Vehicle speed 8. Neutral start switch 13. Alternator connector 19. Temperature sensor
sensor connector connector 14. MAP sensor connector

Fig. 18a Sensor locations 6 cylinder engine - 3.1 L engine shown

 ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL 3-21
2. Disconnect crankshaft sensor electrical Coolant Temperature Sensor 3. Release the electrical connector locking
connector. tab.
Most engine functions are effected by the
3. Remove the crankshaft sensor attaching coolant temperature. Determining whether the 4. Remove the bolts or release the MAP
bolt, then remove the crankshaft sensor from the engine is hot or cold is largely dependent on the sensor locking tabs and remove the sensor.
vehicle. temperature of the coolant. An accurate To install:
To install: temperature signal to the ECM is supplied by the 5. Install the bolts or snap sensor onto the
4. Inspect the sensor O-ring for wear, cracks coolant temperature sensor. The coolant bracket.
or leakage. Replace as necessary. Lubricate the temperature sensor is a thermistor mounted in 6. Connect the MAP sensor electrical
new 0-ring with engine oil prior to installation. the engine coolant stream. A thermistor is an connector.
5. Install the sensor into the hole in the engine electrical device that varies its resistance in 7. Connect the MAP sensor vacuum harness
block and install retaining bolt. relation to changes in temperature. Low coolant connector.
6. Connect the electrical connector. temperature produces a high resistance 8. Connect the negative battery cable.
7. Connect the negative battery cable. (100,000 ohms at -40°F/-40°C) and high
8. On 3.1 L engine perform the Idle Learn Manifold Air Temperature (MAT)
coolant temperature produces low resistance
Procedure as follows: (70 ohms at 266°F/130°C). The ECM supplies a Sensor
a. Connect the Scan tool to the ALDL. signal of 5 volts to the coolant temperature The MAT sensor is a thermistor which
b. Turn the ignition switch to the ON sensor through a resistor in the ECM and supplies manifold air temperature information to
position with the engine not running. measures the voltage. The voltage will be high the ECM. The MAT sensor produces high
c. In the “Misc. Test” mode, select “IAC when the engine is cold and low when the engine resistance (100,000 ohms at-40°F/-40°C) at
System”, then “Idle Learn”. is hot. low temperatures and low resistance of 70 ohms
d. Proceed with idle learn as directed. 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. at 266°F (130°C) at high temperatures. The ECM
2. Drain the cooling system into a clean supplies a 5 volt signal to the MAT sensor and
Dual Crankshaft Sensor container for reuse. measures MAT sensor output voltage. The
3. Disconnect the electrical connector from voltage signal will be high when the air is cold
3.3L AND 3.8L ENGINES
the coolant temperature sensor. and low when the air is hot.
1. Disconnect battery negative cable.
4. Remove the coolant temperature sensor. 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Disconnect serpentine belt from crankshaft
To install: 2. Disconnect the MAT sensor electrical
pulley.
5. Install the coolant temperature sensor. connector locking tab.
3. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
6. Connect the electrical connector. 3. Remove the MAT sensor.
4. Remove right front tire and wheel
7. Fill the cooling system. To install:
assembly, then the inner access cover.
8. Connect the negative battery cable. 4. Install the MAT sensor.
5. Remove crankshaft harmonic balancer
9. Start the engine and check for leaks. 5. Connect the electrical connector.
retaining bolt and crankshaft harmonic balancer.
6. Connect the negative battery cable.
6. Disconnect electrical connector from Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP)
sensor and remove the crankshaft sensor from Oxygen Sensor
Sensor
the vehicle. The exhaust oxygen sensor or 02 sensor is
To install: The MAP sensor measures the changes in
mounted in the exhaust stream where it monitors
7. Loosely install the crankshaft sensor on intake manifold pressure, which result from
oxygen content in the exhaust gas. The oxygen
the pedestal. engine load and speed changes and converts
content in the exhaust is a measure of the air/fuel
8. Position the sensor with the pedestal this information to a voltage output. The MAP
mixture going into the engine. The oxygen in the
attached on special tool J-37089. sensor reading is the opposite of a vacuum
exhaust reacts with the oxygen sensor to
9. Position the tool on the crankshaft. gauge reading: when manifold pressure is high,
produce a voltage which is read by the ECM. The
10. Install the bolts to hold the pedestal to the MAP sensor value is high and vacuum is low. A
voltage output is very low, ranging from 0.1 volt
block face. Tighten to 14-28 ft lbs. (20-40 MAP sensor will produce a low output on engine
in a high oxygen-lean mixture condition to 0.9
coastdown with a closed throttle while a wide
Nm). volt in a low oxygen-rich mixture condition.
11. Tighten the pedestal pinch bolt to 30-35 open throttle will produce a high output. The high
inch lbs. (3-4 Nm). output is produced because the pressure inside PRECAUTIONS:
the manifold is the same as outside the manifold, • Careful handling of the oxygen sensor is
12. Remove special tool J-37089.
13. Place special tool J-37089 on the so 100 percent of the outside air pressure is essential.
measured. • The electrical pigtail and connector are
harmonic balancer and turn. If any vane of the
The MAP sensor is also used to measure permanently attached and should not be
harmonic balancer touches the tool, replace the
barometric pressure under certain conditions, removed from the oxygen sensor.
balancer assembly.
which allows the ECM to automatically adjust for • The inline electrical connector and louvered
14. Install the balancer on the crankshaft and
different altitudes. end of the oxygen sensor must be kept free of
install the crankshaft balancer bolt. Tighten to
The MAP sensor changes the 5 volt signal grease, dirt and other contaminants.
200-239 ft. lbs. (270-325 Nm).
supplied by the ECM, which reads the change • Avoid using cleaning solvents of any type
15. Install the inner fender shield.
and uses the information to control fuel delivery on the oxygen sensor.
16. Install the tire and wheel assembly.
and ignition timing. • Do not drop or roughly handle the oxygen
Tighten to 100 ft. lbs. (140 Nm).
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. sensor.
17. Lower the vehicle.
2. Disconnect the vacuum harness assembly. • The oxygen sensor may be difficult to
18. Install the serpentine belt.
remove if the engine temperature is below 120°F
19. Connect the negative battery cable.
3-22 ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL

1. A/C compressor
2. A/C hose 9. Fan assembly
3. Cooling fan pressure 10. Fan connector
switch connector 11. Air cleaner
4. Low pressure switch 12. IAC stepper motor
connector 13. Throttle body
5. Direct fire ignition 14. TPS connector
connector 15. MAT sensor
6. Oil pressure switch connector
connector 16. MAT sensor
7. High pressure switch 17. Coolant temperature
connector switch
8. A/C compressor 18. Starter solenoid
connector 19. Positive battery cable

Fig. 20 Sensor locations 6 cylinder engine - 3.1 L engine shown

 ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL 3-23

9. Oxygen sensor
connector
1. Air control connector 5. Knock sensor 10. Injector connector
2. PSPS switch 6. EGR solenoid 11. Temperature sensor
3. Neutral start switch connector connector
4. Neutral start switch 7. Alternator lead 12. Nut (5.5 ft. lbs)
connector 8. Alternator connector 13. Bolt (20 ft. lbs)

Fig. 21 Sensor locations 6 cylinder engine - 2.8L (VIN W) engine shown

3-24 ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL

MAS sensor
MAS sensor
connector
Crankscase vent
tube
Throttle body
IAC connector
TPS connector
Air temperature
sensor
Air temperature
connector
Fuel pump prime
connector
Battery feed
ENGINE HARNESS - Knock sensor
Knock sensor
REAR AND L.H. VIEW connector

Fig. 22 Sensor locations 6 cylinder engine - 3.8L (VIN 3) engine shown

(48°C). Excessive force may damage the

1. Coolant temperature threads in the exhaust manifold or exhaust pipe.
sensor (CTS) 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. CTS connector
3. Fan switch connector
2. Release the electrical connector locking
4. CTS switch ^ tab and disconnect.
connector 3. Carefully remove the oxygen sensor.
To install:
Replacement oxygen sensors will
have a coating of an anti-seize
compound on the threads. If, for
any reason, the original sensor Is
being reinstalled, apply a thin
coating of a suitable antl-selze
compound to the threads prior to
installation.

5. Alternator connector 4. Install the oxygen sensor and tighten to 30

6. Coolant fan switch ft. lbs. (41 Nm).
7. Coolant temperature 5. Connect the electrical connector.
switch 6. Connect the negative battery cable.
8. Alternator
9. Crank sensor Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)
connector
10. Crank sensor The TPS is mounted to the throttle body,
11. Cam sensor opposite the throttle lever and is connected to
connector 14. Fuel pump/oil the throttle shaft. Its function is to sense the
12. Cam sensor pressure connector
13. Fuel pump/oil current throttle valve position and relay that
15. Engine harness 16. Power steering
pressure sensor grounds pressure switch information to the ECM. Throttle position
information allows the ECM to generate the
Fig. 23 Sensor locations 6 cylinder engine - 3.8L (VIN 3) engine shown required injector control signals. The TPS
consists of a potentiometer which alters the flow
of voltage according to the position of a wiper on
the variable resistor windings, in proportion to
the movement of the throttle shaft.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Disconnect the TPS electrical connector.
 ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL 3-25
6. Install the 2 TPS mounting screws.
7. Connect the electrical connector.
8. Connect the negative battery cable.
’ Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS)
The VSS is located on the transmission or
behind the dash at the speedometer, and sends
a pulsing voltage signal to the ECM which is
converted to miles per hour. This sensor mainly
controls the operation of the TCC system, shift
light, cruise control and activation of the EGR
system. The following procedures are for the
transmission mounted unit. Follow the
instrument panel procedures for the VSS
mounted to the back of the speedometer.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
3. Disconnect the VSS electrical connector.
4. Remove the retaining bolt.
5. Have a clean container to catch the
transmission fluid and remove the VSS.
6. Remove and discard the O-ring.
To Install:
7. Lubricate a new O-ring with a thin film of
transmission fluid. Install the O-ring and VSS.
8. Install the retaining bolt.
3. Remove the 2 mounting screws. To Install: 9. Connect the electrical connector.
4. Remove the TPS and, if equipped, TPS 5. Place the TPS in position. Align the TPS 10. Lower the vehicle.
seal from the throttle body. lever with the TPS drive lever on the throttle 11. Connect the negative battery cable.
body. 12. Refill transmission to proper level.

ENGINE MECHANICAL

TOOLS from a local parts jobber or tool supply house

Engine Overhaul Tips specializing in automotive work.
Occasionally, the use of special tools is called
Most engine overhaul procedures are fairly The tools required for an engine overhaul or for. See the information on Special Tools and
standard. In addition to specific parts parts replacement will depend on the depth of Safety Notice in the front of this book before
replacement procedures and complete your involvement. With a few exceptions, they
specifications for your individual engine, this substituting another tool.
will be the tools found in a mechanic’s tool kit
Section also is a guide to accept rebuilding (see Section 1). More in-depth work will require
procedures. Examples of standard rebuilding any or all of the following:
practice are shown and should be used along INSPECTION TECHNIQUES
• a dial indicator (reading in thousandths)
with specific details concerning your particular
mounted on a universal base
engine. Procedures and specifications are given in
• micrometers and telescope gauges
Competent and accurate machine shop this Section for inspecting, cleaning and
• jaw and screw-type pullers
services will ensure maximum performance, assessing the wear limits of most major
• scraper
reliability and engine life. components. Other procedures such as
• valve spring compressor
In most instances it is more profitable for the Magnafiux® and Zyglo® can be used to locate
• ring groove cleaner
do-it-yourself mechanic to remove, clean and material flaws and stress cracks. Magnafiux® is
• piston ring expander and compressor
inspect the component, buy the necessary parts a magnetic process applicable only to ferrous
• ridge reamer
and deliver these to a shop for actual machine materials. The Zyglo® process coats the material
• cylinder hone or glaze breaker
work. with a fluorescent dye penetrant and can be used
• Plastigage®
On the other hand, much of the rebuilding on any material Check for suspected surface
work (crankshaft, block, bearings, piston rods, • engine stand
cracks can be more readily made using spot
and other components) is well within the scope Use of most of these tools is illustrated in this
Section. Many can be rented for a one-time use check dye. The dye is sprayed onto the
of the do-it-yourself mechanic.
3-26 ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL
suspected area, wiped off and the area sprayed
with a developer. Cracks will show up brightly.

OVERHAUL TIPS

Aluminum has become extremely popular for

use in engines, due to its low weight. Observe
the following precautions when handling
aluminum parts:
• Never hot tank aluminum parts (the caustic
hot tank solution will eat the aluminum.
• Remove all aluminum parts (identification
tag, etc.) from engine parts prior to the tanking.
• Always coat threads lightly with engine oil FIG. 24 Damaged bolt holes can be repaired
with thread repair inserts. There is also liquid Fig. 28 Screw the threaded insert onto the
or antiseize compounds before installation, to installation tool until the tang engages the
prevent seizure. thread maker available.
slot. Screw the insert into the tapped hole
• Never over-torque bolts or spark plugs
until it is 1/4 to 1/2 turn below the top of
especially in aluminum threads.
the surface. After installation break off the
Stripped threads in any component can be tang with a hammer and a punch
repaired using any of several commercial repair
kits (Heli-Coil®, Microdot®, Keenserts®, etc.).
When assembling the engine, any parts that they require a tap equipped with pilot threads and
will be frictional contact must be prelubed to a combined reamerAap section. Most
provide lubrication at initial start-up. Any product manufacturers also supply blister-packed thread
specifically formulated for this purpose can be repair inserts separately in addition to a master
used, but engine oil is not recommended as a kit containing a variety of taps and inserts plus
Fig. 25 standard thread repair insert (left) and
prelube. installation tools.
spark plug threat repair insert (right)
When semi-permanent (locked, but Before effecting a repair to a threaded hole,
removable) installation of bolts or nuts is remove any snapped, broken or damaged bolts
desired, threads should be cleaned and coated or studs. Penetrating oil can be used to free
with Loctite® or other similar, commercial non- frozen threads; the offending item can be
hardening sealant. removed with locking pliers or with a screw or
stud extractor. After the hole is clear, the thread
can be repaired, as follows:
REPAIRING DAMAGED
THREADS
Checking Engine
t SEE FIGS. 24 to 28
Several methods of repairing damaged
Compression
threads are available. Heli-Coil® (shown here),
Keenserts® and Microdot® are among the most t SEE FIGS. 29 and 31
widely used. All involve basically the same A noticeable lack of engine power, excessive
principle - drilling out stripped threads, tapping oil consumption and/or poor fuel mileage
the hole and installing a prewound insert - measured over an extended period are all
making welding, plugging and oversize fasteners indicators of internal engine war. Worn piston
unnecessary. rings, scored or worn cylinder bores, blown
Two types of thread repair inserts are usually head gaskets, sticking or burnt valves and worn
supplied - a standard type for most Inch valve seats are all possible culprits here. A check
Coarse, Inch Fine, Metric Course and Metric Fine of each cylinder’s compression will help you
thread sizes and a spark lug type to fit most locate the problems.
spark plug port sizes. Consult the individual As mentioned in the Tools and Equipment
manufacturer’s catalog to determine exact section of Section 1, a screw-in type
Fig. 27 With a tap supplied, tap the hole to
applications. Typical thread repair kits will compression gauge is more accurate that the
receive the thread insert. Keep the tap well type you simply hold against the spark plug hole,
contain a selection of prewound threaded
oiled and back it out often to avoid cracking
inserts, a tap (corresponding to the outside although it takes slightly longer to use. It’s worth
the treads
diameter threads of the insert) and an installation it to obtain a more accurate reading. Follow the
tool. Spark plug inserts usually differ because procedures below for gasoline and diesel
engines.
 ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL 3-27
3. Disconnect the high tension lead from the compression test. If the compression comes up
ignition coil. after adding the oil, it appears that the cylinder’s
4. On fully open the throttle either by piston rings or bore are damaged or worn. If the
operating the carburetor throttle linkage by hand pressure remains low, the valves may not be
or by having an assistant floor the accelerator seating properly (a valve job is needed), or the
pedal. head gasket may be blown near that cylinder. If
5. Screw the compression gauge into the compression in any two adjacent cylinders is
no.1 spark plug hole until the fitting is snug. low, and if the addition of oil doesn’t help the
compression, there is leakage past the head
Be careful not to crossthread the
gasket. Oil and coolant water in the combustion
plug hole. On aluminum cylinder
chamber can result from this problem. There
heads use extra care, as the
Fig. 29 The screw in type compression gauge may be evidence of water droplets on the engine
threads In these heads are easily
is more accurate dipstick when a head gasket has blown.
ruined.
6. Ask an assistant to depress the accelerator
pedal fully on both carbureted and fuel injected Diesel Engines
vehicles. Then, while you read the compression Checking cylinder compression on diesel
gauge, ask the assistant to crank the engine two engines is basically the same procedure as on
or three times in short bursts using the ignition gasoline engines except for the following:
switch. 1. A special compression gauge adaptor
7. Read the compression gauge at the end of suitable for diesel engines (because these
each series of cranks, and record the highest of engines have much greater compression
these readings. Repeat this procedure for each pressures) must be used.
of the engine’s cylinders. Compare the highest 2. Remove the injector tubes and remove the
reading of each cylinder to the compression injectors from each cylinder.
pressure specification in the Tune-Up
Specifications chart in Section 2. The specs in Don’t forget to remove the washer
underneath each injector;
this chart are maximum values. A cylinder’s
otherwise, it may get lost when the
compression pressure is usually acceptable if it
engine is cranked.
is not less than 80% of maximum. The difference
GASOLINE ENGINES between each cylinder should be no more than 3. When fitting the compression gauge
12-14 pounds. adaptor to the cylinder head, make sure the
1. Warm up the engine to normal operating 8. If a cylinder is unusually iow, pour a bleeder of the gauge (if equipped) is closed.
temperature. tablespoon of clean engine oil into the cylinder 4. When reinstalling the injector assemblies,
2. Remove all spark plugs. through the spark plug hole and repeat the install new washers underneath each injector.

GENERAL ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS

Engine Fuel Net Net Com- Oil
Engine Displacement System Horsepower Torque @ rpm Bore x Stroke pression Pressure
Year_VIN cu. in. (liter) Type@ rpm(ft. lbs.)(inj Ratio @ rpm
1982-84 R 4-151 (2.5) TBI 92 @4000 134 @ 2800 4.000 x 3.000 8.2:1 37.5 @ 2000
X 6-173(2.8) 2 bbl 112 @4800 145 @2100 3.500 x 3.000 8.5:1 50-65 @1200
Z 6-173(2.8)© 2 bbl 135 @5400 145 @ 2400 3.500 x 3.000 8.9:1 50-65 @1200
E 6-181 (3.0) 2 bbl 110 @4800 145 @2600 3.800 x 2.660 8.45:1 35-42 @ 2000
1983 R 4-151 (2.5) TBI 92 @ 4000 134 @ 2800 4.000 x 3.000 8.2:1 37.5 @ 2000
X 6-173(2.8) 2 bbl 112 @4800 145 @2100 3.500 x 3.000 8.5:1 50-65 @1200
Z 6-173(2.8)© 2 bbl 135 @5400 145 @ 2400 3.500 x 3.000 8.9:1 50-65 @1200
E 6-181 (3.0) 2 bbl 110 @4800 145 @ 2600 3.800 x 2.660 8.45:1 35-42 @ 2000
T 6-263 (4.3) Diesel 85 @ 3600 165 @1600 4.057 x 3.385 21.6:1 40-45 @ 2000
1984 R 4-151 (2.5) TBI 92 @ 4000 134 @ 2800 4.000 x 3.000 8.2:1 37.5 @ 2000
X 6-173(2.8) 2 bbl 112 @ 4800 145 @2100 3.500 x 3.000 8.5:1 50-65 @1200
Z 6-173(2.8)© 2 bbl 135 @5400 145 @2400 3.500 x 3.000 8.9:1 50-65 @1200
E 6-181 (3.0) 2 bbl 110 @4800 145 @2600 3.800 x 2.660 8.45:1 35-42 @ 2000
T 6-263 (4.3) Diesel 85 @ 3600 165 @1600 4.057 x 3.385 21.6:1 40-45 @ 2000
3-28 ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL
GENERAL ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS
Engine Fuel Net Net Com¬ Oil
Engine Displacement System Horsepower Torque @ rpm Bore x Stroke pression Pressure
Year VIN cu. in. (liter) Type @ rpm (ft. lbs.) (in.) Ratio @ rpm
1985 R 4-151 (2.5) TBI 92 @ 4000 134 @ 2800 4.000 x 3.000 8.2:1 37.5 @2000
X 6-173(2.8) 2 bbl 112 @ 4800 145 @2100 3.504 x 2.992 8.5:1 50-65 @1200
W 6-173(2.8) MFI 130 @4800 155 @3600 3.504 x 2.992 8.5:1 50-65 @1200
E 6-181 (3.0) 2 bbl 110 @4800 145 @2600 3.800 x 2.660 8.45:1 35-42 @ 2000
3 6-231 (3.8) MFI 125 @4800 195 @2000 3.800 x 3.400 8.0:1 35-42 @ 2000
T 6-263 (4.3) Diesel 85 @ 3600 165 @ 1600 4.057 x 3.385 21.6:1 40-45 @ 2000
1986 R 4-151 (2.5) TBI 92 @4000 134 @ 2800 4.000 x 3.000 8.2:1 37.5 @2000
X 6-173(2.8) 2 bbl 112 @4800 145 @2100 3.504 x 2.992 8.5:1 50-65 @1200
W 6-173(2.8) MFI 130 @4800 155 @3600 3.504 x 2.992 8.5:1 50-65 @1200
3 6-231 (3.8) SFI 150 @4400 200 @ 2000 3.800 x 3.400 8.0:1 37 @ 2400
B 6-231 (3.8) SFI 150 @4400 200 @ 2000 3.800 x 3.400 8.0:1 37 @ 2400
1987 R 4-151 (2.5) TBI 92 @4000 134 @2800 4.000 x 3.000 8.2:1 37.5 @2000
W 6-173(2.8) MFI 130 @4800 155 @3600 3.504 x 2.992 8.5:1 50-65 @1200
3 6-231 (3.8) SFI 150 @4400 200 @ 2000 3.800 x 3.400 8.0:1 37 @ 2400
1988 R 4-151 (2.5) TBI 92 @ 4000 134 @ 2800 4.000 x 3.000 8.3:1 37.5 @2000
W 6-173(2.8) PFI 130 @4800 155 @3600 3.503 x 2.992 8.9:1 50-65 @1200
3 6-231 (3.8) SFI 150 @4400 200 @ 2000 3.800 x 3.400 8.0:1 37 @ 2400
1989 R 4-151 (2.5) TBI 92 @ 4000 134 @2800 4.000 x 3.000 8.3:1 37.5 @2000
W 6-173 (2.8) PFI 130 @4800 155 @3600 3.503 x 2.992 8.9:1 50-65 @1200
T 6-192 (3.1) PFI 120 @4200 175 @ 2200 3.503 x 3.312 8.8:1 50-65 @ 2400
N 6-204 (3.3) PFI 160 @5200 185 @ 2000 3.700 x 3.160 9.0:1 45 @ 2000
1990 R 4-151 (2.5) TBI 92 @ 4400 134 @2800 4.000 x 3.000 8.3:1 37.5 @ 2000
T 6-192 (3.1) PFI 120 @4200 175 @ 2200 3.503 x 3.312 8.8:1 50-65 @ 2400
N 6-204 (3.3) PFI 160 @5200 185 @2000 3.700 x 3.160 9.0:1 45 @ 2000
1991 R 4-151 (2.5) TBI 92 @ 4400 134 @ 2800 4.000 x 3.000 8.3:1 37.5 @2000
T 6-192 (3.1) PFI 120 @4200 175 @2200 3.503 x 3.312 8.8:1 50-65 @ 2400
N 6-204 (3.3) PFI 160 @ 5200 185 @ 2000 3.700 x 3.160 9.0:1 45 @ 2000
NOTE: Due to manufacturing tolerance variations, figures given for bore and stroke are reference values only. Always use actual piston, bore and crankshaft
measurements prior to any machine work.
TBI—Throttle Body Injection
PFI—Port Fuel Injection
SFI—Sequential Multi-port Fuel Injection
© California
© HO—High Output
 ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL 3-29
VALVE SPECIFICATIONS
Spring Stem-to-Guide Stem
Engine Seat Face Spring Test Installed Clearance Diameter
Engine Displacement Angle Angle Pressure Height (loJ (in-)
VIN cu. in. (liter) (deg.) (deg.) (lbs. @ in.) (in.) Intake Exhaust Intake Exhaust
1982-84 R 4-151 (2.5) 46 45 176 @1.254 1.660 0.0010- 0.0010- 0.3418- 0.3418-
0.0027 0.0027 0.3425 0.3425
x,z 6-173(2.8) 46 45 155 @ 1.160 1.610 0.0010- 0.0010- 0.3410- 0.3410-
0.0027 0.0027 0.3416 0.3416
E 6-181 (3.0) 45 45 220 @1.340 1.727 0.0015- 0.0015- 0.3401- 0.3402-
0.0035 0.0035 0.3412 0.3415
1983 R 4-151 (2.5) 46 45 176 @1.254 1.660 0.0010- 0.0010- 0.3418- 0.3418-
0.0027 0.0027 0.3425 0.3425
x,z 6-173(2.8) 46 45 155 @1.160 1.610 0.0010- 0.0010- 0.3410- 0.3410-
0.0027 0.0027 0.3416 0.3416
E 6-181 (3.0) 45 45 220 @1.340 1.727 0.0015- 0.0015- 0.3401- 0.3402-
0.0035 0.0035 0.3412 0.3415
T 6-263 (4.3) © © 210 @ 1.220 1.670 0.0010- 0.0015- 0.3425- 0.3420-
0.0027 0.0032 0.3432 0.3427
1984 R 4-151 (2.5) - 46 45 176 @1.254 1.660 0.0010- 0.0010- 0.3418- 0.3418-
0.0027 0.0027 0.3425 0.3425
X,Z 6-173(2.8) 46 45 155 @1.160 1.610 0.0010- 0.0010- 0.3410- 0.3410-
0.0027 0.0027 0.3416 0.3416
E 6-181 (3.0) 45 45 220 @1.340 1.727 0.0015- 0.0015- 0.3401- 0.3402-
0.0035 0.0035 0.3412 0.3415
T 6-263 (4.3) © © 210 @ 1.220 1.670 0.0010- 0.0015- 0.3425- 0.3420-
0.0027 0.0032 0.3432 0.3427
1985 R 4-151 (2.5) 46 45 176 @1.254 1.660 0.0010- 0.0010- 0.3418- 0.3418-
0.0027 0.0027 0.3425 0.3425
X, W 6-173(2.8) 46 45 155 @ 1.160 1.610 0.0010- 0.0010- 0.3410- 0.3410-
0.0027 0.0027 0.3416 0.3416
E 6-181 (3.0) 45 45 220 @1.340 1.727 0.0015- 0.0015- 0.3401- 0.3402-
0.0035 0.0035 0.3412 0.3415
T 6-263 (4.3) © © 210 @ 1.220 1.670 0.0010- 0.0015- 0.3425- 0.3420-
0.0027 0.0032 0.3432 0.3427
1986 R 4-151 (2.5) 46 45 176 @1.260 1.690 0.0010- 0.0010- 0.3420- 0.3420-
0.0027 0.0027 0.3430 0.3430
3 6-231 (3.8) 45 45 220 @1.340 1.727 0.0015- 0.0015- 0.3405- 0.3412
0.0032 0.0032 0.3412
B 6-231 (3.8) 45 45 220 @1.340 1.727 0.0015- 0.0015- 0.3405- 0.3412
0.0032 0.0032 0.3412
1987 R 4-151 (2.5) 46 45 176 @1.254 1.690 0.0010- 0.0010- 0.3410- 0.3410-
0.0027 0.0032 0.3140 0.3130
W 6-173(2.8) 46 45 215 @ 1.291 1.727 0.0015- 0.0015- 0.3412- 0.3412-
0.0027 0.0027 0.3416 0.3416
3 6-231 (3.8) 45 45 195 @1.340 1.727 0.0015- 0.0015- 0.3412- 0.3412-
0.0032 0.0032 0.3405 0.3405
1988 R 4-151 (2.5) 46 46 176 @1,254 1.440 0.0010- 0.0013- 0.3130- 0.3120-
0.0028 0.0041 0.3140 0.3130
W 6-173(2.8) 46 45 215 @ 1.291 1.727 0.0010- 0.0010- 0.3412- 0.3412-
0.0027 0.0027 0.3416 0.3416
3 6-231 (3.8) 45 45 195 @1.340 1.727 0.0015- 0.0015- 0.3405- 0.3405-
0.0035 0.0032 0.3412 0.3412
3-30 ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL
VALVE SPECIFICATIONS
Spring Stem-to-Guide Stem
Engine Seat Face Spring Test Installed Clearance Diameter
Engine Displacement Angle Angle Pressure Height (In-) (in.)
Year VIN cu. in. (liter) (deg.) (deg.) (lbs. @ in.) (in.) Intake Exhaust Intake Exhaust
1989 R 4-151 (2.5) 46 46 176 @1.254 1.440 0.0010- 0.0013- 0.3130- 0.3120-
0.0028 0.0041 0.3140 0.3130
W 6-173(2.8) 46 45 215 @ 1.291 1.727 0.0010- 0.0010- 0.3412- 0.3412-
0.0027 0.0027 0.3416 0.3416
T 6-192 (3.1) 46 45 215 @ 1.291 1.575 0.0010- 0.0010- NA NA
0.0027 0.0027
N 6-204 (3.3) 46 45 215 @ 1.291 1.701 0.0010- 0.0010- NA NA
0.0027 0.0027
1990 R 4-151 (2.5) 46 46 176 @1.254 1.440 0.0010- 0.0013- NA NA
0.0028 0.0041
T 6-192 (3.1) 46 45 215 @ 1.291 1.575 0.0010- 0.0010- NA NA
0.0027 0.0027
N 6-204 (3.3) 46 45 215 @ 1.291 1.701 0.0010- 0.0010- NA NA
0.0027 0.0027
1991 R 4-151 (2.5) 46 45 173 @1.240 1.680 0.0010- 0.0013- NA NA
0.0028 0.0041
T 6-192 (3.1) 46 45 215 @ 1.291 1.5758 0.0010- 0.0010- NA NA
0.0027 0.0027
N 6-204 (3.3) 45 45 210 @ 1.315 1.690- 0.0015- 0.0015- NA NA
1.720 0.0035 0.0032
1992 R 4-151 (2.5) 46 45 173 @1.240 1.680 0.0010- 0.0013- NA NA
0.0028 0.0041
T 6-192 (3.1) 46 45 215 @ 1.291 1.5758 0.0010- 0.0010- NA NA
0.0027 0.0027
N 6-204 (3.3) 45 45 210 @1.315 1.690- 0.0015- 0.0015- NA NA
1.720 0.0035 0.0032
NA—Not available
© Intake: 45
Exhaust: 31
© Intake: 44
Exhaust: 30

CAMSHAFT SPECIFICATIONS
All measurements given in inches.
Engine
Engine Displacement Journal Diameter Elevation Bearing Camshaft
Year VIN cu. in. (liter) 1 2 3 4 5 In. Ex. Clearance End Play
1982 R 4-151 (2.5) 1.869 1.869 1.869 — — 0.398 0.398 0.0007- 0.0015-
0.0027 0.0050
X 6-173(2.8) 1.869 1.869 1.869 1.869 — 0.231 0.263 0.0010- —

0.0040
Z 6-173 (2.8) 1.869 1.869 1.869 1.869 — 0.231 0.263 0.0010- —

0.0040
E 6-181 (3.0) 1.786 1.786 1.786 1.786 1.786 0.406 0.406 © —
 ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL 3-31
CAMSHAFT SPECIFICATIONS
All measurements given in inches.
Engine
Engine Displacement Journal Diameter Elevation Bearing Camshaft
Year VIN cu. in. (liter) 1 2 3 4 5 in. Ex. Clearance End Play
1983 R 4-151 (2.5) 1.869 1.869 1.869 — — 0.398 0.398 0.0007- 0.0015-
0.0027 0.0050
X 6-173(2.8) 1.869 1.869 1.869 1.869 — 0.231 0.263 0.0010- —

0.0040
Z 6-173(2.8) 1.869 1.869 1.869 1.869 — 0.231 0.263 0.0010- —

0.0040
E 6-181 (3.0) 1.786 1.786 1.786 1.786 1.786 0.406 0.406 © —

T 6-263 (4.3) © 2.205 2.185 2.165 — NA NA 0.0020- 0.0008-

0.0059 0.0228
1984 R 4-151 (2.5) 1.869 1.869 1.869 — — 0.398 0.398 0.0007- 0.0015-
0.0027 0.0050
X 6-173(2.8) 1.869 1.869 1.869 1.869 — 0.231 0.263 0.0010- —

0.0040
Z 6-173 (2.8) 1.869 1.869 1.869 1.869 — 0.231 0.263 0.0010- —

0.0040
E 6-181 (3.0) 1.786 1.786 1.786 1.786 1.786 0.406 0.406 © —

T 6-263 (4.3) © 2.205 2.185 2.165 — NA NA 0.0020- 0.0008-

0.0059 0.0228
1985 R 4-151 (2.5) 1.869 1.869 1.869 — — 0.398 0.398 0.0007- 0.0015-
0.0027 0.0050
X 6-173 (2.8) 1.869 1.869 1.869 1.869 — 0.231 0.263 0.0010- —

0.0040
Z 6-173 (2.8) 1.869 1.869 1.869 1.869 — 0.231 0.263 0.0010- —

0.0040
E 6-181 (3.0) 1.786 1.786 1.786 1.786 1.786 0.406 0.406 © —

3 6-231 (3.8) 1.786 1.786 1.786 1.786 1.786 0.406 0.406 © —

T 6-263 (4.3) © 2.205 2.185 2.165 — NA NA 0.0020- 0.0008-

0.0059 0.0228
1986 R 4-151 (2.5) 1.869 1.869 1.869 — — 0.398 0.398 0.0007- 0.0015-
0.0027 0.0050
X 6-173 (2.8) 1.869 1.869 1.869 1.869 — 0.263 0.273 0.0010- —

0.0040
W 6-173(2.8) 1.869 1.869 1.869 1.869 — 0.263 0.273 0.0010- —

0.0040
3 6-231 (3.8) 1.786 1.786 1.786 1.786 1.786 0.397 0.397 © —

B 6-231 (3.8) 1.786 1.786 1.786 1.786 1.786 0.397 0.397 © —

1987 R 4-151 (2.5) 1.869 1.869 1.869 — — 0.398 0.398 0.0007- 0.0015-
0.0027 0.0050
W 6-173(2.8) 1.869 1.869 1.869 1.869 — 0.263 0.273 0.0010- —

0.0040
3 6-231 (3.8) 1.786 1.786 1.786 1.786 1.786 0.397 0.397 © —

1988 R 4-151 (2.5) 1.8690 1.8690 1.8690 — — 0.232 0.232 0.0007- 0.0015-
0.0027 0.0050
W 6-173(2.8) 1.8678- 1.8678- 1.8678- 1.8678- — 0.262 0.273 0.0010- NA
1.8815 1.8815 1.8815 1.8815 0.0040
3 6-231 (3.8) 1.7850- 1.7850- 1.7850- 1.7850- — 0.245 0.245 0.0005- NA
1.7860 1.7860 1.7860 1.7860 0.0035
3-32 ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL
CAMSHAFT SPECIFICATIONS
All measurements given in inches.
Engine
Engine Displacement Journal Diameter Elevation Bearing Camshaft
Year VIN cu. in. (liter) 1 2 3 4 5 In. Ex. Clearance End Play
1989 R 4-151 (2.5) 1.8690 1.8690 1.8690 — — 0.232 0.232 0.0007- 0.0015-
0.0027 0.0050
W 6-173(2.8) 1.8678- 1.8678- 1.8678- 1.8678- — 0.262 0.273 0.0010- NA
1.8815 1.8815 1.8815 1.8815 0.0040
T 6-192 (3.1) 1.8678- 1.8678- 1.8678- 1.8678- — 0.263 0.273 0.0010- NA
1.8815 1.8815 1.8815 1.8815 0.0040
N 6-204 (3.3) 1.7850- 1.7850- 1.7850- 1.7850- — 0.250 0.255 0.0005- NA
1.7860 1.7860 1.7860 1.7860 0.0035
1990 R 4-151 (2.5) 1.8690 1.8690 1.8690 — — 0.248 0.248 0.0007- 0.0015-
0.0027 0.0050
T 6-192 (3.1) 1.8678- 1.8678- 1.8678- 1.8678- — 0.263 0.273 0.0010- NA
1.8815 1.8815 1.8815 1.8815 0.0040
N 6-204 (3.3) 1.7850- 1.7850- 1.7850- 1.7850- — 0.250 0.255 0.0005- NA
1.7860 1.7860 1.7860 1.7860 0.0035
1991 R 4-151 (2.5) 1.8690 1.8690 1.8690 — — 0.248 0.248 0.0007- 0.0015-
0.0027 0.0050
T 6-192 (3.1) 1.8678- 1.8678- 1.8678- 1.8678- —r 0.263 0.273 0.0010- NA
1.8815 1.8815 1.8815 1.8815 0.0040
N 6-204 (3.3) 1.7850- 1.7850- 1.7850- 1.7850- — 0.250 0.255 0.0005- NA
1.7860 1.7860 1.7860 1.7860 0.0035
1992 R 4-151 (2.5) 1.8690 1.8690 1.8690 — — 0.248 0.248 0.0007- 0.0015-
0.0027 0.0050
T 6-192 (3.1) 1.8678- 1.8678- 1.8678- 1.8678- — 0.263 0.273 0.0010- NA
1.8815 1.8815 1.8815 1.8815 0.0040
N 6-204 (3.3) 1.7850- 1.7850- 1.7850- 1.7850- — 0.250 0.255 0.0005- NA
1.7860 1.7860 1.7860 1.7860 0.0035
NA—Not available © No. 1 bearing is not boreable, but must be
© No. 1: 0.0005-0.0025 replaced separately
No. 2-5: 0.0005-0.0035

CRANKSHAFT AND CONNECTING ROD SPECIFICATIONS

All measurements are given in inches.
Engine _Crankshaft_ _Connecting Rod
Engine Displacement Main Brg. Main Brg. Oil Shaft Thrust Journal Oil Side
Year VIN cu. in. (liter) Journal Dia. Clearance End-play on No. Diameter Clearance Clearance
1982 R 4-151 (2.5) 2.2995- 0.0005- 0.0035- 5 1.9995- 0.0005- 0.006-
2.3005 0.0022 0.0085 2.0005 0.0026 0.022
x,z 6-173(2.8) 2.4397- 0.0017- 0.0020- 3 1.9984- 0.0014- 0.006-
2.4946 0.0030 0.0067 1.9994 0.0036 0.017
E 6-181 (3.0) 2.4990- 0.0003- 0.0030- 2 2.2487- 0.0005- 0.023-
2.5000 0.0018 0.0090 2.2495 0.0026 0.022
1983 R 4-151 (2.5) 2.2995- 0.0005- 0.0035- 5 1.9995- 0.0005- 0.006-
2.3005 0.0022 0.0085 2.0005 0.0026 0.022
x,z 6-173(2.8) 2.4397- 0.0017- 0.0020- 3 1.9984- 0.0014- 0.006-
2.4946 0.0030 0.0067 1.9994 0.0036 0.017
E 6-181 (3.0) 2.4990- 0.0003- 0.0030- 2 2.2487- 0.0005- 0.023-
2.5000 0.0018 0.0090 2.2495 0.0026 0.022
T 6-263 (4.3) 2.9993- © 0.0035- 4 2.2490- 0.0003- 0.008-
3.0003 0.0135 2.2510 0.0025 0.021
 ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL 3-33
CRANKSHAFT AND CONNECTING ROD SPECIFICATIONS
All measurements are given in inches.
En9'ne Crankshaft Connecting Rod
Engine Displacement Main Brg. Main Brg. Oil Shaft Thrust Journal Oil Side
Year VIN cu. in. (liter) Journal Dia. Clearance End-play on No. Diameter Clearance Clearance
1984 R 4-151 (2.5) 2.2995- 0.0005- 0.0035- 5 1.9995- 0.0005- 0.006-
2.3005 0.0022 0.0085 2.0005 0.0026 0.022
x,z 6-173(2.8) 2.4397- 0.0017- 0.0020- 3 1.9984- 0.0014- 0.006-
2.4946 0.0030 0.0067 1.9994 0.0036 0.017
E 6-181 (3.0) 2.4990- 0.0003- 0.0030- 2 2.2487- 0.0005- 0.023-
2.5000 0.0018 0.0090 2.2495 0.0026 0.022
T 6-263 (4.3) 2.9993- © 0.0035- 4 2.2490- 0.0003- 0.008-
3.0003 0.0135 2.2510 0.0025 0.021
1985 R 4-151 (2.5) 2.2995- 0.0005- 0.0035- 5 1.9995- 0.0005- 0.006-
2.3005 0.0022 0.0085 2.0005 0.0026 0.022
X, W 6-173(2.8) 2.4397- 0.0017- 0.0020- 3 1.9984- 0.0014- 0.006-
2.4946 0.0030 0.0067 1.9994 0.0036 0.017
E 6-181 (3.0) 2.4990- 0.0003- 0.0030- 2 2.2487- 0.0005- 0.023-
2.5000 0.0018 0.0090 2.2495 0.0026 0.022
T 6-263 (4.3) - 2.9993- © 0.0035- 4 2.2490- 0.0003- 0.008-
3.0003 0.0135 2.2510 0.0025 0.021
1986 R 4-151 (2.5) 2.2995- 0.0005- 0.0035- 5 1.9995- 0.0005- 0.006-
2.3005 0.0022 0.0085 2.0005 0.0026 0.022
X, W 6-173(2.8) 2.4397- ., 0.0017- 0.0020- 3 1.9984- 0.0014- 0.006-
2.4946 0.0030 0.0067 1.9994 0.0036 0.017
3 6-231 (3.8) 2.4995 0.0003- 0.003- 2 2.2487- 0.0005- 0.006-
0.0018 0.011 2.2495 0.0026 0.023
B 6-231 (3.8) 2.4995 0.0003- Q.003- 2 2.2487- 0.0005- 0.006-
0.0018 0.011 2.2495 0.0026 0.023
1987 R 4-151 (2.5) 2.2995- 0.0005- 0.0035- 5 1.9995- 0.0005- 0.006-
2.3005 0.0022 0.0085 2.0005 0.0026 0.022
W 6-173(2.8) 2.6473- 0.0016- 0.002- 3 1.9983- 0.0013- 0.006-
2.6483 0.0033 0.008 1.9993 0.0026 0.017
3 6-231 (3.8) 2.4995 0.0003- 0.003- 2 2.2487- 0.0005- 0.006-
0.0018 0.011 2.2495 0.0026 0.023
1988 R 4-151 (2.5) 2.3000 0.0005- 0.003- 5 1.9995- 0.0005- 0.006-
0.0022 0.008 2.0005 0.0026 0.022
W 6-173(2.8) 2.6473- 0.0016- 0.002- 3 1.9983- 0.0013- 0.006-
2.6483 0.0033 0.008 1.9993 0.0026 0.017
3 6-231 (3.8) 2.4988 0.0003- 0.003- 2 2.2487- 0.0005- 0.006-
2.4998 0.0018 0.011 2.2495 0.0026 0.023
1989 R 4-151 (2.5) 2.3000 0.0005- 0.003- 5 1.9995- 0.0005- 0.006-
0.0022 0.008 2.0005 0.0026 0.022
W 6-173(2.8) 2.6473- 0.0016- 0.002- 3 1.9983- 0.0013- 0.006-
(
2.6483 0.0033 0.008 1.9993 0.0026 0.017
T 6-192 (3.1) 2.6473- 0.0012- 0.002- 3 1.9983- 0.0013- 0.014-
2.6483 0.0027 0.008 1.9994 0.0031 0.027
N 6-204 (3.3) 2.4988- 0.0003- 0.003- 3 2.2487- 0.0003- 0.003-
2.4998 0.0018 0.011 2.2499 0.0026 0.015
3-34 ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL
CRANKSHAFT AND CONNECTING ROD SPECIFICATIONS
All measurements are given in inches.
Engine _Crankshaft_ _Connecting Rod
Engine Displacement Main Brg. Main Brg. Oil Shaft Thrust Journal Oil Side
Year VIN cu. in. (liter) Journal Dia. Clearance End-play on No. Diameter Clearance Clearance
1990 R 4-151 (2.5) 2.3000 0.0005- 0.003- 5 1.9995- 0.0005- 0.006-
0.0022 0.008 2.0005 0.0026 0.022
T 6-192 (3.1) 2.6473- 0.0012- 0.002- 3 1.9983- 0.0013- 0.014-
2.6483 0.0027 0.008 1.9994 0.0031 0.027
N 6-204 (3.3) 2.4988- 0.0003- 0.003- 3 2.2487- 0.0003- 0.003-
2.4998 0.0018 0.011 2.2499 0.0026 0.015
1991 R 4-151 (2.5) 2.3000 0.0005- 0.005- 5 2.0000 0.0005- 0.006-
0.0022 0.001 0.0030 0.024
T 6-192 (3.1) 2.6473- 0.0012- 0.002- 3 1.9983- 0.0011- 0.014-
2.6483 0.0030 0.008 1.9994 0.0034 0.027
N 6-204(3.3) 2.4988- 0.0003- 0.003- 3 2.2487- 0.0003- 0.003-
2.4998 0.0018 0.011 2.2499 0.0026 0.015
1992 R 4-151 (2.5) 2.3000 0.0005- 0.005- 5 2.0000 0.0005- 0.006-
0.0022 0.001 0.0030 0.024
T 6-192 (3.1) 2.6473- 0.0012- 0.002- 3 1.9983- 0.0011- 0.014-
2.6483 0.0030 0.008 1.9994 0.0034 0.027
N 6-204 (3.3) 2.4988- 0.0003- . 0.003- 3 2.2487- 0.0003- 0.003-
2.4998 0.0018 0.011 2.2499 0.0026 0.015
NOTE: Due to manufacturing tolerance variations, figures given are reference values only. Always use actual piston, bore and crankshaft measurements prior to
any machine work.
©No. 1,2, 3:0.0005-0.0021
No. 4: 0.0020-0.034

PISTON AND RING SPECIFICATIONS

All measurements are given in inches.
Engine __Ring Gap_ _Ring Side Clearance
Engine Displacement Piston Top Bottom Oil Top Bottom Oil
Year VIN cu. in. (liter) Clearance Compression Compression Control Compression Compression Control
1982 R 4-151 (2.5) 0.0025- 0.010- 0.010- 0.0015- 0.0015- 0.0015- Snug
0.0033 0.022 0.027 0.0055 0.0030 0.0030
x,z 6-173(2.8) 0.0017- 0.010- 0.010- 0.020- 0.0012- 0.0016- 0.008
0.0027 0.020 0.020 0.055 0.0028 0.0037
E 6-181 (3.0) 0.0008- 0.013- 0.013- 0.015- 0.0030- 0.0030- 0.0035
0.0020 0.023 0.023 0.035 0.0050 0.0050
1983 R 4-151 (2.5) 0.0025- 0.010- 0.010- 0.0015- 0.0015- 0.0015- Snug
0.0033 0.022 0.027 0.0055 0.0030 0.0030
x,z 6-173(2.8) 0.0017- 0.010- 0.010- 0.020- 0.0012- 0.0016- 0.008
0.0027 0.020 0.020 0.055 0.0028 0.0037
E 6-181 (3.0) 0.0008- 0.013- 0.013- 0.015- 0.0030- 0.0030- 0.0035
0.0020 0.023 0.023 0.035 0.0050 0.0050
T 6-263 (4.3) 0.0030- 0.015- 0.015- 0.015- 0.0050- 0.0030- 0.001-
0.0040 0.025 0.025 0.055 0.0070 0.0070 0.005
1984 R 4-151 (2.5) 0.0025- 0.010- 0.010- 0.0015- 0.0015- 0.0015- Snug
0.0033 0.022 0.027 0.0055 0.0030 0.0030
x,z 6-173(2.8) 0.0017- 0.010- 0.010- 0.020- 0.0012- 0.0016- 0.008
0.0027 0.020 0.020 0.055 0.0028 0.0037
E 6-181 (3.0) 0.0008- 0.013- 0.013- 0.015- 0.0030- 0.0030- 0.0035
0.0020 0.023 0.023 0.035 0.0050 0.0050
T 6-263 (4.3) 0.0030- 0.015- 0.015- 0.015- 0.0050- 0.0030- 0.001-
0.0040 0.025 0.025 0.055 0.0070 0.0070 0.005
 ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL 3-35
PISTON AND RING SPECIFICATIONS
All measurements are given in inches.
Engine _Ring Gap_ _Ring Side Clearance
Engine Displacement Piston Top Bottom Oil Top Bottom Oil
Year VIN cu. in. (liter) Clearance Compression Compression Control Compression Compression Control
1985 R 4-151 (2.5) 0.0014- 0.010- 0.010- 0.020- 0.002- 0.001- 0.015-
0.0022© 0.020 0.020 0.060 0.003 0.003 0.055
X, W 6-173(2.8) 0.0017- 0.010- 0.010- 0.020- 0.0012- 0.0016- 0.008
0.0027 0.020 0.020 0.055 0.0028 0.0037
E 6-181 (3.0) 0.0008- 0.013- 0.013- 0.015- 0.0030- 0.0030- 0.0035
0.0020 0.023 0.023 0.035 0.0050 0.0050
3 6-231 (3.8) 0.0008- 0.010- 0.010- 0.015- 0.003- 0.003- 0.0035
0.0020 0.020 0.020 0.055 0.005 0.005
T 6-263 (4.3) 0.0035- 0.019- 0.013- 0.015- 0.005- 0.003- 0.001-
0.0045 0.027 0.021 0.055 0.007 0.007 0.005
1986 R 4-151 (2.5) 0.0014- 0.010- 0.010- 0.020- 0.002- 0.001- 0.015-
0.0022© 0.020 0.020 0.060 0.003 0.003 0.055
X, W 6-173(2.8) 0.0017- 0.010- 0.010- 0.020- 0.0012- 0.0016- 0.008
0.0027 0.020 0.020 0.055 0.0028 0.0037
3, B 6-231 (3.8) 0.001- 0.013- 0.013- 0.015- 0.003- 0.003- 0.0035
0.002 0.023 0.023 0.035 0.005 0.005
1987 R 4-151 (2.5) 0.0014- 0.010- 0.010- 0.020- 0.002- 0.001- 0.015-
0.0022© 0.020 0.020 0.060 0.003 0.003 0.055
W 6-173(2.8) 0.0020- 0.010- 0.010- 0.020- 0.001- 0.001- 0.008-
0.0028 0.020 0.020 0.055 0.003 0.003 0.005
3 6-231 (3.8) 0.001- 0.013- 0.013- 0.015- 0.003- 0.003- 0.0035,
0.002 0.023 0.023 0.035 0.005 0.005
1988 R 4-151 (2.5) 0.0014- 0.010- 0.010- 0.020- 0.002- 0.001- 0.015-
0.0022© 0.020 0.020 0.060 0.003 0.003 0.055
W 6-173(2.8) 0.0020- 0.010- 0.010- 0.020- 0.001- 0.001- 0.005-
0.0028 0.020 0.020 0.055 0.003 0.003 0.008
3 6-231 (3.8) 0.0010- 0.013- 0.013- 0.015- 0.003- 0.003- 0.003
0.0020 0.023 0.023 0.035 0.005 0.005
1989 R 4-151 (2.5) 0.0014- 0.010- 0.010- 0.020- 0.002- 0.001- 0.015-
0.0022© 0.020 0.020 0.060 0.003 0.003 0.055
W 6-173(2.8) 0.0020- 0.010- 0.010- 0.020- 0.001- 0.001- 0.005-
0.0028 0.020 0.020 0.055 0.003 0.003 0.008
T 6-192 (3.1) 0.0022- 0.010- 0.010- 0.010- 0.002- 0.002- 0.008®
0.0028 0.020 0.020 0.050 0.004 0.004
N 6-204 (3.3) 0.0004- 0.010- 0.010- 0.010- 0.001- 0.001- 0.001
0.0022© 0.025 0.025 0.040 0.003 0.003 0.008
1990 R 4-151 (2.5) 0.0014- 0.010- 0.010- 0.020- 0.002- 0.001- 0.015-
0.0022© 0.020 0.020 0.060 0.003 0.003 0.055
T 6-192 (3.1) 0.0022- 0.010- 0.010- 0.010- 0.002- 0.002- 0.008®
0.0028 0.020 0.020 0.050 0.004 0.004
N 6-204 (3.3) 0.0004- 0.010- 0.010- 0.010- 0.001- 0.001- 0.001
0.0022® 0.025 0.025 0.040 0.003 0.003 0.008

1991 R 4-151 (2.5) 0.0014- 0.010- 0.010- 0.020- 0.002- 0.001- 0.015-
0.0022 0.020 0.020 0.060 0.003 0.003 0.055

T 6-192 (3.1) 0.0009- 0.010- 0.010- 0.010- 0.0020- 0.0020- 0.008®

0.0022 0.020 0.028 0.030 0.0035 0.0035
N 6-204 (3.3) 0.0004- 0.010- 0.010- 0.010- 0.0013- 0.0013- 0.0011-
0.0022® 0.025 0.025 0.040 0.0031 0.0031 0.0081
3-36 ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL
PISTON AND RING SPECIFICATIONS
All measurements are given in inches.
Ring Gap Ring Side Clearance
Piston Top Bottom Oil Top Bottom Oil
Engine Displacement
Clearance Compression Compression Control Compression Compression Control
Year VIN cu. in. (liter)
0.010- 0.010- 0.020- 0.002- 0.001- 0.015-
1992 R 4-151 (2.5) 0.0014-
0.0022 0.020 0.020 0.060 0.003 0.003 0.055

0.0009- 0.010- 0.010- 0.010- 0.0020- 0.0020- 0.008©

T 6-192 (3.1)
0.0022 0.020 0.028 0.030 0.0035 0.0035

0.0004- 0.010- 0.010- 0.010- 0.0013- 0.0013- 0.0011-

N 6-204 (3.3)
0.0022® 0.025 0.025 0.040 0.0031 0.0031 0.0081

© Measured Vs in. down from piston top

© Maximum clearance
® 44 mm from top of piston

TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
__All readings in ft. Ibs._
No!
Cylinder Cylinder Main Rod Crankshaft
Displacement Head Bearing Bearing Pulley Flywheel Manifold Spark
Year VIN ,cu. in. (liter) Bolts_Bolts Bolts_Bolts_Bolts_Intake Exhaust Plugs
1982 R 4-151 (2.5) 92 70 32 200 44 29 44 NA
x,z 6-173(2.8) 70 68 37 75 50 23 25 7-15
E 6-181 (3.0) 80 100 40-45 225 60 32 25-37 13
1983 R 4-151 (2.5) 92 70 32 200 44 29 44 NA
x,z 6-173(2.8) 70 68 37 75 50 23 25 7-15
E 6-181 (3.0) 80 100 40-45 225 60 32 25-37 13
T 6-263 (4.3) © 107 42 200 76 41 29 —

1984 R 4-151 (2.5) 92 70 32 200 44 29 44 NA

X,Z 6-173(2.8). 70 68 37 75 50 23 25 7-15
E 6-181 (3.0) 80 100 40-45 225 60 32 25-37 13
T 6-263 (4.3) © 107 42 200 76 41 29 —

1985 R 4-151 (2.5) 92 70 32 200 44 29 © 15

X,W 6-173(2.8) 70 68 37 75 50 23 25 15
E 6-181 (3.0) 80 100 40-45 200 60 47 25-37 13
3 6-231 (3.8) 80 100 40 200 60 47 25 13
T 6-263 (4.3) © 107 42 200 76 41 29 —

1986 R 4-151 (2.5) 92 70 32 200 44 25 © 15

X,W 6-173(2.8) 65-90 68 37 75 50 23 25 7-15
3,B 6-231 (3.8) © 100 40 200 60 32 37 20
1987 R 4-151 (2.5) © 70 32 162 © 25 © 15
W 6-173 (2.8) © 68 37 75 ® 25 15-23 10-25
3 6-231 (3.8) © 100 45 219 60 32 37 20
1988 R 4-151 (2.5) © 70 32 162 55 25 © 15
W 6-173(2.8) © 73 39 76 52 © 15-23 10-25
3 6-231 (3.8) © 100 45 219 60 32 37 20
1989 R 4-151 (2.5) © 70 32 162 55 25 © 15
W 6-173(2.8) © 73 39 76 52 © 15-23 10-25
T 6-192 (3.1) © 73 34-40 76 52 © 19 10-25
N 6-204 (3.3) © © © 219 © ' 88® 41 20
 ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL 3-37
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
All readings in ft. lbs.
No.
Cylinder Cylinder Main Rod Crankshaft
Displacement Head Bearing Bearing Pulley Flywheel Manifold Spark
Year VIN cu. in. (liter) Bolts Bolts Bolts Bolts Bolts Intake Exhaust Plugs
1990 R 4-151 (2.5) © 65 29 162 55 25 © 15
T 6-192 (3.1) © 73 39 76 52 © 19 10-25
N 6-204 (3.3) © © © 219 © 88® 41 20
1991 R 4-151 (2.5) © 65 29 162 55 25 © 20
T 6-192 (3.1) © 73 39 76 52 © 19 18
N 6-204 (3.3) © © © 219 © 89® 41 20
1992 R 4-151 (2.5) © 65 29 162 55 25 © 20
T 6-192 (3.1) © 73 39 76 52 © 19 18
N 6-204 (3.3) © © © 219 © 89® 41 20
© Step 1: All bolts to 18 ft. lbs.
©Step 1:25 ft. lbs. © Step 1: 20 ft. lbs.
Step 2: Except position “I or 9” to 26 ft. lbs.
Step 2: +90° turn Step 2: +50° turn
Step 3: Retorque position “I or 9” to 18 ft. lbs. Step 3: +90° turn © Manifold-to-cylinder head: 24 ft. lbs.
Step 4: All bolts +90° turn NOTE: If at any time 60 ft. lbs. is reached Manifold-to-plenum: 16 ft. lbs.
© Step 1: 33 ft. lbs. ; , during the sequence, STOP! Do not continue ® Inch lbs.
Step 2: +90° turn turning the bolt ® Allexc. No. 5, 6, 11,12,13,14:142ft. lbs
® Inner bolts: 37 ft. lbs. ©Step 1:35ft. lbs. No. 5, 6, 11, 12, 13, 14: 59 ft. lbs.
Outer bolts: 28 ft. lbs. Step 2: +130° turn © Manual Trans.: 69 ft. lbs.
© Step 1: 89 inch lbs. Step 3: +30° turn on 4 center bolts only Automatic Trans.: 55 ft. lbs.
Step 2: +90° turn ©Step 1:26ft. lbs. © Manual Trans.: 52 ft. lbs.
Step 2: +45° turn Automatic Trans.: 46 ft. lbs.

3. Remove front mount-to-cradle nuts. 23. Connect engine harness at bulkhead

Engine 4. Remove forward exhaust pipe. connector.
5. Remove starter assembly (wires attached 24. Connect radiator hose.
and swing to side). 25. Connect heater hose.
6. Remove flywheel inspection cover.. 26. Connect the throttle cable
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 7. Lower car. 27. Install the heater blower motor.
8. Remove air cleaner. 28. Install the vacuum hoses and electrical
9. Remove all bell housing bolts. connectors at the solenoid.
10. Remove forward torque reaction rod from 29. Install the power steering hose.
CAUTION engine and core support. 30. Install the emission hoses at the canister.
11. If equipped with air conditioning, remove 31. Install the air conditioning compressor
When draining the coolant, keep In and belt.
air conditioning belt and compressor and swing
mind that cats and dogs are 32. Install the forward torque reaction rod to
to side.
attracted by the ethylene glycol the engine and core support.
12. Remove emission hoses at canister.
antifreeze, and are quite likely to 33. Install all bell housing bolts.
13. Remove power steering hose (if so
drink any that is left In an 34. Install the air cleaner.
uncovered container or In puddles equipped).
14. Remove vacuum hoses and electrical 35. Raise the vehicle.
on the ground. This will prove fatal
connectors at solenoid. 36. Install the flywheel inspection cover.
in sufficient quantity. Always drain
15. Remove heater blower motor. 37. Install the starter assembly.
the coolant into a sealable
16. Disconnect throttle cable. 38. Connect the forward exhaust pipe.
container. Coolant should be
17. Drain heater hose. 39. Install the front mount-to-cradle nuts.
reused unless it Is contaminated or
18. Disconnect heater hose. 40. Lower the vehicle and install the battery.
several years old.
19. Disconnect radiator hose.
2.5L Engine with Automatic
20. Disconnect engine harness at bulkhead
Transaxle
connector.
2.5L Engine with Manual Transaxle 21. With engine lifting tool, hoist engine Relieve the pressure in the fuel
(remove heater hose at intake manifold and system.
Relieve the pressure In the fuel
disconnect fuel line).
system. 1. Disconnect battery cables at battery.
To Install: 2. Drain cooling system.
1. Disconnect battery cables at battery. 22. Lower the engine into the engine
2. Hoist car. 3. Remove air cleaner and pre-heat tube.
compartment.
3-38 ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL
4. Disconnect engine harness connector. 38. Install the air conditioning compressor 27. If air conditioning equipped, remove
5. Disconnect all external vacuum hose mounting brackets and the compressor. compressor from mounting bracket and swing
connections. 39. Install the upper radiator hose. aside.
6. Remove throttle and transaxle linkage at 40. Connect the throttle and transaxle linkage 28. Disconnect forward strut bracket from
E.F.I. assembly and intake manifold. at the E.F.I. assembly and intake manifold. radiator support Swing aside.
7. Remove upper radiator hose. 41. Connect all external vacuum hose 29. Lift engine out of vehicle.
8. If equipped with air conditioning, remove connections. To Install:
air conditioning compressor from mounting 42. Connect the engine harness connector. 30. Lower the engine into the vehicle.
brackets and set aside. Do not disconnect hoses. 43. Install the air cleaner and pre-heat tube. 31. Connect forward strut bracket to radiator
9. Remove the front engine strut assembly. 44. Fill the cooling system. support.
10. Disconnect heater hose at intake 45. Connect battery cables at battery. 32. Install the air conditioning compressor
manifold. and mounting bracket.
2.8L Engine with Manual Transaxle
11. Remove transaxle to engine bolts leaving 33. Raise the vehicle and place the transaxle
upper two bolts in place. 1. Disconnect cables from battery. jack under the transaxle.
12. Remove front mount-to-cradle nuts. 2. Remove air cleaner. 34. Raise the transaxle flush with the engine
13. Remove forward exhaust pipe. 3. Drain cooling system. and install the engine-to-transaxle attaching
14. Remove flywheel inspection cover and 4. Disconnect vacuum hosing to all non¬ bolts.
remove starter motor. engine mounted components. 35. Remove the transaxle jack and lower the
15. Remove torque converter to flywheel 5. Disconnect accelerator linkage from vehicle just enough to install the engine support
bolts. carburetor. fixture.
16. Remove power steering pump and 6. Disconnect engine harness connector 36. Raise engine until weight is relieved from
bracket and move to one side. from the ECM and pull the connector through the mount assemblies.
17. Remove heater hose and lower radiator front of the dash. 37. Connect all power train mount to cradle
hose. 7. Disconnect radiator hoses from radiator. attachments.
18. Remove two rear transaxle support 8. Disconnect heater hoses from engine. 38. Connect exhaust pipe.
bracket bolts. 9. If equipped, remove power steering pump 39. Install the side and crossmember
19. Remove fuel supply line at fuel filter. and bracket assembly from engine. assembly. Connect the engine harness to the
20. Using a floor jack and a block of wood 10. Disconnect clutch cable from transaxle. junction block at the left side of the dash.
placed under the transaxle, raise engine and 11. Disconnect shift linkage from transaxle 40. Install all remaining transaxle to engine
transaxle until engine front mount studs clear shift levers. Remove cables from transaxle retaining bolts.
cradle. bosses. 41. Install the exhaust crossover.
21. Connect engine lift equipment and put 12. Disconnect speedometer cable from 42. Remove the engine support fixture.
tension on engine. transaxle. 43. Lower the vehicle.
22. Remove two remaining transaxle bolts. 13. Raise and support the vehicle on jack 44. Connect the speedometer cable to the
23. Slide engine forward and lift from car. stands. transaxle.
To Install: 14. Remove exhaust crossover. 45. Install the cables to the transaxle bosses.
24. Lower the engine into the vehicle. Do not 15. Remove all but one of the transaxle to 46. Connect the transaxle shift linkage.
completely lower the engine with a jack engine retaining bolts. 47. Connect the clutch cable.
supporting the transaxle. 16. Remove side and crossmember 48. Install the power steering bracket and
25. Install two transaxle botts. assembly.
pump assembly.
26. Remove the floor jack and lower the 17. Disconnect exhaust pipe.
49. Connect the heater hoses to the engine.
engine completely into the vehicle. 18. Remove all power train mount to cradle
50. Install the radiator hoses to the radiator.
27. Connect the fuel supply line and install attachments.
51. Feed the engine harness connector
the filter. 19. Disconnect the engine harness from the
through the front of the dash and connect it to the
28. Install the two transaxle rear support junction block at the left side of the dash.
ECM.
bracket bolts. 20. Lower vehicle. If equipped with MR,
52. Connect the throttle, the T.V. and the
29. Install the heater and lower radiator disconnect the throttle, the T.V. and the cruise
cruise control cables at the throttle body.
hoses. control cables at the throttle body.
53. Connect the accelerator linkage to the
30. Connect the power steering bracket and 21. Install engine support fixture. Raise
carburetor.
engine until weight is relieved from mount
pump. 54. Connect vacuum hosing to all non-engine
assembled.
31. Install the torque converter-to-flywheel mounted components.
bolts. 22. Lower left side of engineAransaxle
55. Rll the cooling system.
32. Install the starter motor and the flywheel assembly by loosening tool J—22825.
56. Install the air cleaner.
inspection cover. 23. Place jack under transaxle.
58. Connect the battery cables.
33. Connect the forward exhaust pipe. 24. Remove the final transaxle to engine
34. Install the front mount-to-cradle nuts. attaching bolt and separate transaxle from 2.8L Engine with Automatic
engine and lower. Transaxle
35. Install the transaxle to engine bolts.
36. Connect the heater hose at intake 25. Lower vehicle.
1. Disconnect battery cables from battery.
manifold. 26. Install engine lifting fixture.
2. Remove air cleaner.
37. Install the front engine strut assembly. 3. Drain cooling system.
 ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL 3-39
4. Disconnect vacuum hosing to all non- 34. Install the engine front mount to cradle 21. Remove transaxle to cylinder case
engine mounted components. retaining nuts (right side of vehicle). retaining bolts. Make note of ground stud
5. Disconnect detent cable from carburetor 35. Connect fuel lines at rubber hose location.
lever. connections at right side of engine. 22. If air conditioning equipped, remove
6. Disconnect accelerator linkage, if 36. Connect exhaust pipe. compressor from mounting bracket and lay
equipped with MFI, disconnect the throttle at the 37. Lower the vehicle. aside.
T.V. and the cruise control cables at the throttle 38. Install the power steering pump and 23. Install a lift fixture to the engine.
body. bracket assembly to the engine. 24. Remove the engine from the vehicle.
7. Disconnect engine harness connector 39. Connect the heater hoses to the engine. To Install:
from the ECM and pull the connector through the 40. Connect the radiator hoses to the 25. Lower the engine into the vehicle.
front of the dash, then disconnect it from the radiator. 26. Install the compressor mounting bracket
junction block at the left side of the dash. 41. Connect the ground strap to the engine at and the compressor.
8. Disconnect ground strap from engine at the engine forward strut. 27. Install the transaxle to cylinder case
engine forward strut. 42. Connect the engine harness connector to retaining bolts and the ground stud.
9. Disconnect radiator hoses from radiator. the junction block at the left side of the dash then 28. Install the exhaust crossover pipe.
10. Disconnect heater hoses from engine. push the connector through the front of the dash 29. Install the engine stud bracket to the
11. Remove power steering pump and and connect it to the ECM. radiator support.
bracket assembly from engine, if equipped. 43. Connect accelerator linkage. If equipped 30. Raise the vehicle and remove the support
12. Raise vehicle. with MFI, connect the throttle at the T.V. and the from the transaxle rear extension.
13. Disconnect exhaust pipe. cruise control cables at the throttle body. 31. Install the transaxle case to cylinder case
14. Disconnect fuel lines at rubber hose 44. Connect detent cable from carburetor support bracket bolts.
connections at right side of engine. lever. 32. Connect the torque converter to the flex
15. Remove engine front mount to cradle - 45. Connect vacuum hosing to all non-engine plate and install the flex plate cover.
retaining nuts (right side of vehicle). mounted components. 33. Connect the battery cables to the engine
16. Disconnect battery cables from engine 46. Fill the cooling system. (Starter and transaxle housing bolt).
(Starter and transaxle housing bolt). 47. Install the air cleaner. 34. Install the engine front mount to cradle
17. Remove flex plate cover and disconnect 48. Connect battery cables. retaining nuts (right side of vehicle).
torque convertor from flex plate. 35. Connect fuel lines at rubber hose
18. Remove transaxle case to cylinder case 3.0L Engine
connections at right side of engine.
support bracket bolts. 1. Disconnect battery cables from battery. 36. Connect exhaust pipe.
19. Lower vehicle. Place a support under the 2. Remove air cleaner. 37. Lower the vehicle.
transaxle rear extension. 3. Drain cooling system. 38. Install the power steering pump and
20. Remove engine strut bracket from 4. Disconnect vacuum hosing to all non¬ bracket assembly to the engine.
radiator support and swing rearward. engine mounted components. 39. Connect the heater hoses to the engine.
21. Remove exhaust crossover pipe. 5. Disconnect detent cable from carburetor 40. Connect the radiator hoses to the
22. Remove transaxle to cylinder case lever. radiator.
retaining bolts. Make note of ground stud 6. Disconnect accelerator linkage. 41. Connect the ground strap to the engine at
location. 7. Disconnect engine harness connector. the engine forward strut.
23. If air conditioning equipped, remove 8. Disconnect ground strap from engine at 42. Connect the engine harness connector to
compressor from mounting bracket and lay engine forward strut. the junction block at the left side of the dash then
aside. 9. Disconnect radiator hoses from radiator. push the connector through the front of the dash
24. Install lift fixture to engine and remove 10. Disconnect heater hoses from engine. and connect it to the ECM.
engine from vehicle. 11. Remove power steering pump and 43. Connect the accelerator linkage.
To Install: bracket assembly from engine. 44. Connect detent cable from carburetor
25. Lower the engine into the vehicle. 12. Raise vehicle. lever.
26. Install the compressor mounting bracket 13. Disconnect exhaust pipe at manifold. 45. Connect vacuum hosing to all non-engine
and the compressor. 14. Disconnect fuel lines at rubber hose mounted components.
27. Install the transaxle to cylinder case connections. 46. Fill the cooling system.
retaining bolts and the ground stud. 15. Remove engine front mount to cradle 47. Install the air cleaner.
28. Install the exhaust crossover pipe. retaining nuts (right side of vehicle). 48. Connect battery cables.
29. Install the engine stud bracket to the 16. Disconnect battery cables from engine
radiator support. (Starter and transaxle housing bolt). 3.1 L Engine
30. Raise the vehicle and remove the support 17. Remove flex plate cover and disconnect 1. Relieve the fuel system pressure.
from the transaxle rear extension. torque converter from flex plate. 2. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
31. Install the transaxle case to cylinder case 18. Remove transaxle case to cylinder case Scribe reference marks at the hood supports and
support bracket bolts. support bracket bolts. remove the hood. Install covers on both fenders.
32. Connect the torque converter to the flex 19. Lower vehicle. Place a support under the 3. Remove the airflow tube at the air cleaner
plate and install the flex plate cover. transaxle rear extension. and throttle valve.
33. Connect the battery cables to the engine 20. Remove engine strut bracket from 4. Drain the cooling system.
(Starter and transaxle housing bolt). radiator support and swing rearward.
3-40 ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL
5. Disconnect vacuum hoses from all non¬ 28. Position the front engine mount studs in 5. Remove the upper engine strut and engine
engine mounted components. the cradle and engine bracket. cooling fan.
6. Disconnect the accelerator linkage and TV 29. Remove the engine lift tool. Raise and 6. Remove the intake duct from the throttle
cable. Disconnect the cruise control cable, if support the vehicle safely. body. Disconnect vacuum hoses from all non¬
equipped. 30. Install the engine mount retaining nuts. engine mounted components. Disconnect all
7. Disconnect the engine harness connector 31. If equipped, connect the power steering electrical connections.
from the ECM and pull the connector through the cut-off switch. 7. Remove the cable bracket and cables from
front of dash. Disconnect the engine harness 32. Install the 1 transaxle-to-engine bolt from the throttle body.
from the junction block at the dash panel. the back side of the engine. 8. Remove the serpentine belt. If equipped,
8. Remove the engine stmt bracket from the 33. Connect the exhaust pipe- remove the power steering pump and locate to
radiator support and position aside, as required. 34. If equipped with automatic transaxle, the side.
9. Disconnect the radiator hoses from connect the torque converter to the flexplate and 9. Remove the upper transaxle-to-engine
radiator and heater hoses from engine. install the transaxle inspection cover. retaining bolts.
Disconnect and plug the transaxle cooler lines. 35. Install the starter and retaining bolts. 10. Raise and support the vehicle safely.
10. Remove the serpentine belt cover and Connect the starter electrical connectors. 11. Remove the air conditioning compressor
belt. 36. Install the engine front mount-to-cradle and locate to the side.
11. On vehicles with the air conditioning and mount-to-engine bracket retaining nuts. 12. Remove the engine mount-to-frame nuts,
compressor mounted on the upper portion of the 37. On vehicles with the air conditioning flywheel dust cover and flywheel-to-converter
engine, remove the AIR pump and bracket. Then, compressor mounted on the lower portion of the bolts.
remove the air conditioning compressor from the engine, install the air conditioning compressor. 13. Remove the lower engine-to-transaxle
mounting bracket and position aside. 38. Lower the vehicle. bolts; 1 bolt is located behind the transaxle case
12. If equipped, remove power steering 39. Connect the EGR at the exhaust, if and engine block.
pump from engine and set it aside. removed. 14. Lower the vehicle. Install an engine lift
13. Disconnect and plug the fuel lines. 40. Connect the fuel lines. tool and remove the engine from the vehicle.
14. Disconnect the E6R at the exhaust, as 41. If equipped, install power steering pump. To install:
required. 42. On vehicles with the air conditioning 15. Install the engine in the engine
15. Raise and safely support the vehicle. compressor mounted on the upper portion of the compartment. Install the upper engine-to-
16. On vehicles with the air conditioning engine, install the air conditioner compressor. transaxle bolts. Remove the engine lift tool.
compressor mounted on the lower portion of the Install the AIR pump and bracket. 16. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
engine, remove the air conditioning compressor 43. Install thq serpentine belt cover and belt. 17. Install the lower engine-to-transaxle
from the engine. Do not discharge the air 44. Connect the radiator and heater hoses. bolts; 1 bolt is located behind the transaxle case
conditioning system. Connect the transaxle cooler lines. and engine block.
17. Remove the engine front mount-to-cradle 45. Install the engine strut bracket to the 18. Install the flywheel-to-converter bolts,
and mount-to-engine bracket retaining nuts, as radiator support. flywheel dust cover and engine mount-to-frame
required. 46. Connect the engine harness connector to nuts.
18. Disconnect and tag all electrical wiring at the ECM. 19. Install the air conditioning compressor.
the starter. Remove the starter retaining bolts 47,. Connect the accelerator linkage and TV 20. Lower the vehicle.
and remove the starter. cable. Connect the cruise control cable, if 21. If equipped, install the power steering
19. If equipped with automatic transaxle, equipped.
pump. Install the serpentine belt.
remove the transaxle inspection cover and 48. Connect vacuum hoses to all non-engine
disconnect the torque converter from the 22. Install the cable bracket and cables to the
mounted components.
flexplate. throttle body.
49. Install the airflow tube at the air cleaner
20. Disconnect the exhaust pipe. 23. Install the intake duetto the throttle body.
and throttle valve.
21. Remove the 1 transaxle-to-engine bolt Connect vacuum hoses to all non-engine
50. Install the hood using the reference
from the back side of the engine. mounted components. Connect all electrical
marks made upon removal.
connections.
22. Disconnect the power steering cut-off 51. Connect the negative battery cable.
switch, if equipped. 24. Install the upper engine strut and engine
52. Fill cooling system and check for leaks.
23. Lower the vehicle. cooling fan.
Start the engine and allow to come to normal
24. Remove the exhaust crossover pipe. 25. Connect the radiator and heater hoses.
operating temperature. Check for leaks and refill
25. Remove the remaining transaxle-to- Connect the transaxle cooler lines.
the cooling system.
engine bolts. 26. Install the hood.
26. Support the transaxle by positioning a 3.3L Engine 27. Connect the negative battery cable.
floor jack and a block of wood under the 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 28. Fill cooling system and check for leaks.
transaxle. Install an engine lift tool and remove Scribe reference marks at the hood supports and Start the engine and allow to come to normal
the engine from the vehicle. remove the hood. Install covers on both fenders. operating temperature. Recheck for leaks and fill
To install: the cooling system.
2. Relieve the fuel system pressure.
27. Position the engine in the vehicle while 3. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 3.8L Engine
aligning the transaxle. Install the transaxle-to- 4. Drain the cooling system. Disconnect the
engine bolts. 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
radiator and heater hoses. Disconnect and plug
Scribe reference marks at the hood supports and
the transaxle cooler lines.
remove the hood. Install covers on both fenders.
 ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL 3-41
2. Remove the air cleaner assembly and 30. If equipped, install the power steering 20. Disconnect the throttle and T.V. cables at
drain the cooling system. bracket assembly and pump. the injection pump and cable bracket. Position
3. Disconnect vacuum hoses to all non¬ 31. Connect the heater and radiator hoses. cables aside.
engine mounted components. Connect the transaxle cooler lines, if equipped. 21. Disconnect the upper oil cooler hose and
4. Disconnect the detent cable and 32. Connect the engine electrical harness and cap the openings.
accelerator linkage. ground strap. 22. Remove the exhaust crossover pipe heat
5. Disconnect the engine electrical harness 33. Connect the detent cable and accelerator shield.
and ground strap. linkage. 23. Disconnect and move aside the transaxle
6. Disconnect the heater hoses from the 34. Connect vacuum hoses to all non-engine filler tube.
engine and radiator hoses from the radiator. mounted components. 24. Remove the exhaust crossover pipe.
Disconnect the transaxle cooler lines, if 35. Install the air cleaner assembly. 25. Remove the engine mounting strut and
equipped. 36. Install the hood. strut brackets.
7. If equipped, remove the power steering 37. Connect the negative battery cable. 26. Install a suitable engine lifting device.
pump and bracket assembly. 38. Fill cooling system and check for leaks. Make certain that when installing chains to the
8. Raise and safely support the vehicle. Start the engine and allow to come to normal cylinder heads that washers are used under the
9. Disconnect the exhaust pipe from the operating temperature. Check for leaks and refill chains and bolt heads and that the bolts are
manifold. the cooling system. torqued to 20 ft. lbs.
10. Disconnect the fuel lines.
4.3L Diesel Engine
11. Remove the engine front mount-to-cradle
retaining nuts. 1. Drain the cooling system. Remove the ** CAUTION
12. Disconnect and tag all electrical wiring at serpentine drive belt (and vacuum pump drive Failure to properly secure the
the starter. Remove the starter retaining bolts belt, if air conditioning equipped). engine lift to the aluminum cylinder
and remove the starter. 2. Remove air cleaner and install cover J- heads can result in personal Injury.
13. If equipped with automatic transaxle, 26996.
remove the flexplate cover and disconnect the 3. Disconnect battery negative cable(s) at
flexplate from the torque converter. batteries and ground wires at inner fender panel. 27. Position a support under the transaxle
14. Remove the retaining bolts from the Disconnect engine ground strap, rear (right) rear extension. It may be necessary to raise the
transaxle rear support bracket. head to cowl. support as the engine is being removed.
15. Lower the vehicle and place a support 4. Hoist car. 28. Remove the engine to transaxle bolts and
under the transaxle rear extension. 5. Remove the flywheel cover. remove the engine.
16. Remove the engine strut bracket from the 6. Remove the flywheel to torque converter 29. To install, reverse the removal process
radiator support and position aside. bolts. noting the following:
17. Remove the transaxle-to-engine retaining 7. Disconnect the exhaust pipe from the rear a. Before installing the flex plate-to-
bolts. exhaust manifold. converter bolts, make sure that the weld nuts
18. If equipped with air conditioning, remove 8. Remove the engine to transaxle brace. on the converter are flush with the flex plate,
the air conditioning compressor from the 9. Remove the engine mount to cradle and the converter rotates freely by hand.
mounting bracket and lay aside. retaining nuts and washers. b. Use only new O-rings at all
19. install an pngine lift tool and remove the 10. Disconnect the leads to the starter motor, connections.
engine from the vehicle. #2 cylinder glow plug and battery ground cable c. Adjust the throttle valve cable as
To Install: at transaxle to engine bolt. outlined in the Section 7.
20. Position the engine in the vehicle and 11. Disconnect the lower oil cooler hose and
align the engine front mount studs. Align the cap the openings.
transaxle and install the transaxle-to-engine 12. Remove the accessible power steering Valve Cover(s)
retaining bolts. pump bracket fasteners.
21. Remove the engine lift tool. 13. Lower the car.
22. If equipped, install the air conditioning 14. Remove the remaining power steering
compressor to the mounting bracket. pump bracket/brace fasteners and lower the REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
23. Raise and safely support the vehicle. power steering pump with hoses out of the way.
Install the retaining bolts to the transaxle rear 15. Remove heater water return pipe.
16. Disconnect all remaining glow plug leads
support bracket.
at the glow plugs.
24. If equipped with automatic transaxle, » CAUTION
connect the flexplate to the torque converter and 17. Disconnect all other leads at the engine,
disconnect the engine harness at the cowl When draining the coolant, keep In
install the flexplate cover.
connector and body mounted relays and position mind that cats and dogs are
25. Install the starter and retaining bolts.
the engine harness aside. attracted by the ethylene glycol
Connect the starter electrical connectors.
18. If air conditioning equipped, disconnect antifreeze, and are quite likely to
26. install the engine front mount-to-cradle
the compressor with brackets and lines attached drink any that is left In an
retaining nuts.
and position aside. uncovered container or In puddles
27. Connect the fuel lines.
28. Connect the exhaust pipe to the manifold. 19. Disconnect the fuel and vacuum hoses, on the ground. This will prove fatal
cap all fuel line openings.
29. Lower the vehicle.
3-42 ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL
in sufficient quantity. Always drain 8. Remove the valve cover retaining bolts, 3.1 L Engine
the coolant into a sealable then remove the valve cover. If the cover sticks, On the 3.1 L engines If battery
container. Coolant should be tap it loose with a rubber mallet. DON’T attempt power Is lost to the engine
reused unless It is contaminated or to pry it off of the head, as the cover may be computer the Idle learn memory
several years old. easily damaged. will be lost, causing poor or no Idle
9. Refer to steps 6-8 of the previous 4-2.5L control. A special Scan Tool, should
procedure to prepare and seal the valve cover be used to perform the Idle learn
during installation. The valve cover retaining procedure. Avoid disconnecting the
2.5L Engine
bolts must be torqued to 11 ft. lbs. battery on 3.1 L whenever possible.
1. Remove the air cleaner assembly, being 10. The remainder of the installation is
sure to tag all disconnected hoses for performed in the reverse order of removal. FRONT COVER
reassembly purposes. 1. Release fuel system pressure and
2. Remove the P.C.V. valve and hose from 3.0L, and 3.8L Engines disconnect the negative battery cable.
the valve cover grommet. 2. Remove the air cleaner assembly.
FRONT COVER
3. Remove the valve cover retaining bolts. 3. Drain the cooling system.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
4. Remove the spark plug wires from the 4. Disconnect the ignition wire clamps from
2. Remove the crankcase breather tube.
spark plugs and the locating clips. Be sure to tag the coolant tube.
3. Remove the spark plug wire harness cover
the wires so that they may be attached properly. 5. Remove the coolant tube mount at head
and disconnect the spark plug wires at the spark
5. Remove the cover retaining bolts, then the and coolant tube from each end.
valve cover by tapping it with a rubber mallet. plugs.
6. Remove the coolant tube at the coolant
This must be done to break the R.T.V. seal. 4. Remove the valve cover nuts, washers,
pump and remove the tube.
DON’T attempt to pry the cover off, as it is easily seals and valve cover.
7. Remove the ignition wire guide.
damaged. 5. Using a putty knife, clean the gasket
8. Remove the spark plug wire harness cover
6. Remove the valve cover retaining bolts mounting surfaces.
and disconnect the spark plug wires at the spark
then remove the valve cover. If the cover sticks, 6. To install, use a new gasket and reverse
plugs, as needed.
tap it loose with a rubber mallet. DONT attempt the removal procedures. Torque the valve cover
9. Remove the valve cover nuts, washers,
nuts to 7 ft. lbs. (10 Nm.).
to pry it off of the head, as the cover may be seals and valve cover.
easily damaged. REAR COVER 10. Using a putty knife, clean the gasket
7. Refer to steps 6-8 of the previous 4-2.5L 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. mounting surfaces.
procedure to prepare and seal the valve cover 2. Remove the C3I ignition coil module, the 11. To install, use a new gasket and reverse
during installation. spark plug cables, the wiring connectors, the the removal procedures. Torque the valve cover
8. The remainder of the installation is EGR solenoid wiring and vacuum hoses. nuts to 7 ft. lbs. (10 Nm.).
performed in the reverse of removal. Torque the If equipped with an MFI system,
front engine strut bracket bolts to 35 ft. lbs. REAR COVER
remove any component which will 1. Release fuel system pressure and
2.8L Engine interfere with the valve cover disconnect the negative battery cable.
removal. 2. Drain the cooling system below the level of
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable at
the battery. 3. Remove the serpentine drive belt. the heater hose.
2. Remove the air cleaner assembly, being 4. Remove the alternator’s wiring 3. Remove the hoses at the intake plenum.
sure to tag all disconnected hoses for connectors, then the mounting bolt and swing 4. Remove the airflow tube.
reassembly purposes. the alternator toward the front of the vehicle. 5. Remove the EGR valve crossover pipe.
5. Remove the power steering pump from the 6. Remove the ignition wire guide.
If equipped with an MFI system,
belt tensioner (move it aside) and the belt 7. Tag and remove the ignition wires.
remove any component which will
tensioner assembly. 8. Disconnect the coolant hoses at the
interfere with the valve cover
6. Remove the engine lift bracket and the rear throttle body.
removal.
alternator brace. 9. Tag and disconnect all electrical
3. Remove the spark plug wires from the 7. Drain the cooling system below the level of connectors to throttle body and that will ease the
spark plugs and the locating clips. Be sure to tag the heater hose, then disconnect the throttle operation by moving asside.
the wires so that they may be attached properly. body heater hoses. 10. Disconnect the throttle body cables.
4. Disconnect the accelerator linkage and 8. Remove the valve cover nuts, the washers, 11. Remove the bracket at the right side of
springs from the carburetor. the seals, the valve cover and the gasket. the intake plenum.
5. If your vehicle has an automatic transaxle, 9. Using a putty knife, clean the gasket 12. Remove the power brake booster supply
disconnect the T.V. (throttle valve) linkage at the mounting surfaces. hose.
carburetor. 10. To install, use a new gasket and reverse 13. Remove the serpentine belt.
6. If your vehicle has cruise control remove the removal procedures. Torque the valve cover 14. Remove the coolant recovery bottle.
the diaphragm actuator mounting bracket. nuts to 7 ft. lbs. (10 Nm.). 15. Remove the exhaust crossover pipe.
7. Remove the air management valve and the 16. Remove the alternator and support it out
necessary hoses (see Section 4). of the way.
17! Remove the PCV valve from the valve
cover.
 ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL 3-43
18. Remove the valve cover nuts, the 8. To install, use a new gasket and reverse
washers, the seals, the valve cover and the the removal procedures. Torque the valve cover Rocker Arm and
gasket. nuts to 7 ft. lbs. (10 Nm.).
19. Using a putty knife, clean the gasket 9. Reinstall the power steering pump and
Pushrod
mounting surfaces. install the serpentine drive belt.
To Install: 10. Install the negative battery cable, start
20. Use a new gasket and reverse the engine and check for leaks.
removal procedures. Torque the valve cover nuts REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
to 7 ft. lbs. (10 Nm.). 4.3L Diesel Engine
21. Install the PCV valve. 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
22. Install the alternator, exhaust crossover 2. Remove the fuel injection lines. 2.5L Engine
and coolant recovery tank. 3. Remove the forward engine support strut, 1. Remove the valve cover.
23. Install the serpentine drive belt. which is bolted to the radiator support strut and 2. On fuel injected engines, see the fuel pump
24. Install the brake booster hose. an engine bracket. section to relieve pressure, in the fuel system
25. Install the bracket to the right side of the 4. Unbolt and remove the strut bracket from before disconnecting any fuel lines.
intake plenum. the engine. 3. If only the pushrod is being removed,
26. Connect the throttle body cables, 5. If necessary, remove any additional loosen the rocker arm bolt and swing the rocker
electrical connectors and hoses. piece(s) which may interfere with removal of the arm aside.
27. Install the ignition wires and guides. cover. 4. Remove the rocker arm nut and ball.
28. Install the EGR valve crossover pipe and 6. Unbolt and remove the cover. If the cover 5. Lift the rocker arm off the stud, keeping
the airflow tube. sticks, tap it loose with a rubber mallet. DON’T rocker arms in order for installation.
29. Install the vacuum hoses. attempt to pry it off of the head, as the cover may 6. To install reverse steps 1 through 5.
30. nil the radiator and check for leaks. ' be easily damaged. Tighten the rocker arm bolt to 20 ft. lbs.; the
31. Connect the negative battery cable, install 7. Raise the jack until it just starts to lift the rocker cover to 5 ft. lbs.
air cleaner and perform the Idle Learn Procedure vehicle.
on 3.1 L engines. Tighten the air cleaner bolt to 8. Remove the two front body mount bolts 2.8L Engine
lift. lbs. (15 Nm). from the cradle, along with the cushions and the Rocker arms are removed by removing the
retainers. Remove the cushions from the bolts. adjusting nut. Be sure to adjust valve lash after
3.3L Engine 9. Thread the body mount bolts (with the replacing rocker arms.
FRONT COVER retainers) back into place, making sure to turn When replacing an exhaust
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. them at least three full turns each. rocker, move an old Intake rocker
2. Remove the serpentine drive belt. 10. Carefully and slowly lower the jack until arm to the exhaust rocker arm stud
3. Remove the alternator brace bolt and the cradle contacts the retainers. While you are and Install the new rocker arm on
brace. lowering the jack, be sure to watch for any the Intake stud.
4. Remove the spark plug wire harness cover component interference and correct as required.
Cylinder heads use threaded rocker arm
and disconnect the spark plug wires at the spark
studs. If the threads in the head are damaged or
plugs. stripped, the head can be retapped and a helical
5. Remove the valve cover nuts, washers,
** CAUTION
type insert installed.
seals and valve cover. DO NOT attempt to lower the cradle
6. Using a putty knife, clean the gasket without the bolts and retainers in If engine Is equipped with the
mounting surfaces. place, as this could cause damage A.I.R. exhaust emission control
7. To install, use a new gasket and reverse of various underhood components. system, the Interfering
the removal procedures. Torque the valve cover components of the system must be
nuts to 7 ft. lbs. (10 Nm.). removed. Disconnect the lines at
11. Unbolt and remove the cover. If the cover the air injection nozzles In the
REAR COVER sticks, tap it loose with a rubber mallet. DON’T exhaust manifolds.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. attempt to pry it off of the head, as the cover may
2. Remove the serpentine drive belt. 3.0L and 3.8L Engine
be easily damaged.
3. Loosen the power steering pump bolts and 1. Remove the rocker arm cover(s).
12. Refer to steps 6-8 of the previous 4-
slide the pump forward. Remove the pump 2. Remove the rocker arm shaft(s).
2.5L procedure to prepare and seal the valve
braces. 3. Place the shaft on a clean surface.
cover during installation.
5. Remove the power steering pump from the 4. Remove the nylon rocker arm retainers. A
13. To install reverse steps 1 through 12.
belt tensioner (move it aside) and the belt pair of slip joint pliers is good for this.
tensioner assembly. 5. Slide the rocker arms off the shaft and
6. Remove the valve cover nuts, the washers, inspect them for wear or damage. Keep them in
the seals, the valve cover and the gasket. order!
7. Using a putty knife, clean the gasket 6. To install reverse steps 1 through 5. If new
mounting surfaces. rocker arms are being installed, note that they
are stamped R (right) or L (left), meaning that
they be used on the right or left of each cylinder,
3-44 ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL
NOT right and left cylinder banks. Each rocker Keep all components separated, in sufficient quantity. Always drain
arm must be centered over its oil hole. New if old parts are to be reinstalled the coolant Into a sealable
nylon retainers must be used. they must be Installed In the same container. Coolant should be
locations. reused unless it is contaminated or
3.1 L Engine several years old.
5. Remove the pushrods.
1. Release fuel pressure and disconnect the To Install:
negative battery cable. 6. Install the pushrods taking care they are in
3. Some models with cruise control have a
On the 3.1 L engines If battery the proper locations.
power is lost to the engine vacuum modulator attached to the thermostat
7. Make sure the pushrods are seated in the
computer the idle learn memory housing with a bracket. It your vehicle is
lifters.
will be lost, causing poor or no Idle equipped as such, remove the bracket from the
8. Install the rocker arm assembly. Coat
housing.
control. A special Scan Tool, should threads with lock compound GM 12345493 or
be used to perform the Idle learn 4. On the 4-cyl. engines, unbolt the water
equivalent.
procedure. Avoid disconnecting the outlet from the thermostat housing, remove the
9. Torque the rocker arm bolts to 28 ft. lbs.
battery on 3.1 L whenever possible. outlet from the housing and lift the thermostat
(38Nm).
out of the housing. On all other models, unbolt
2. Remove the valve covers. 10. Install the valve covers. Install the battery
the water outlet from the intake manifold, remove
3. Remove the rocker arm nuts. cable.
the outlet and lift the thermostat out of the
4. Remove rocker are pivot ball and arms. manifold.
4.3L Diesel Engine
r+ Keep all components separated, To Install:
if old parts are to be reinstalled r+ This procedure requires that the 5. Clean both of the mating surfaces and run
they must be installed In the same valve lifters be bledl a Vs in. (3mm) bead of R.T.V.(room temperature
locations. 1. Remove the valve cover(s). See the Valve vulcanizing) sealer in the groove of the water
5. Remove the pushrods. Cover procedure. outlet.
2. Remove the rocker arm nuts, pivot and 6. Install the thermostat (spring towards
Keep all components separated. rocker arms. engine) and bolt the water outlet into place while
The pushrods are not the same
3. If rocker arms are being replaced, they the R.T.V. sealer is still wet. Torque the bolts to
length. Intake pushrods are 6 In. must be replaced in cylinder sets. Never replace 21 ft. lbs. The remainder of the installation is the
(152mm) long and mark orange,
just one rocker arm per cylinder! If a stud was reverse of removal. Check for leaks after the car
while the exhaust pushrods are 63/s replaced, coat the threads with locking is started and correct as required.
In. (162mm) long and marked blue.
compound and torque it to 11 ft. lb.
To install:
4. To installation reverse the above process.
6. Install the pushrods taking care they are in the
See the section on Valve lifter bleed-down. This Intake Manifold
proper locations.
is absolutely necessary! If lifters are not bled,
7. Make sure the pushrods are seated in the lifters. engine damage will be unavoidable! Torque the
8. Install the rocker arms, pivots and nuts. They ♦ SEE FIGS. 33 to 38
rocker arm nuts to 28 ft. lbs.; the cover to 5 ft.
should be coated with prelube GM 1052365 or lbs.
equivalent. REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
9. Torque the rocker arm nuts to 18 ft. lbs. (25
Nm).
10. Install the valve covers. Install the battery
Thermostat
cable. CAUTION
11. On 3.1 L engine perform the Idle Learn
Procedure as follows: When draining the coolant, keep In
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION mind that cats and dogs are
a. Connect the Scan tool to the ALDL.
b. Turn the ignition switch to the ON attracted by the ethylene glycol
position with the engine not running. antifreeze, and are quite likely to
c. In the “Misc. Test” mode, select “IAC All Models drink any that Is left In an
System”, then “Idle Learn”. 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. uncovered container or in puddles
d. Proceed with idle learn as directed, by on the ground. This will prove fatal
2. Drain the cooling system.
the Scan Tool. in sufficient quantity. Always drain
the coolant Into a sealable
3.3L Engine CAUTION container. Coolant should be
1. Release fuel pressure and disconnect the reused unless It Is contaminated or
When draining the coolant, keep In several years old.
negative battery cable.
mind that cats and dogs are
2. Remove the valve covers.
attracted by the ethylene glycol
3. Remove the rocker arm pedestal bolts. antifreeze, and are quite likely to
4. Remove rocker arm and pedestal drink any that is left In an
assembly. uncovered container or In puddles
on the ground. This will prove fatal
 ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL 3-45
2.5L Engine FUEL INJECTED
1. Relieve the pressure in the fuel system
© © © © ©
before disconnecting any fuel line connections.
** CAUTION \ FRONT 2. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
If throttle body injected, bleed 3. Disconnect the accelerator and TV cable
pressure from the fuel system,
before servicing. See Section 5. © © 0 © ©r bracket at the intake plenum.
4. Disconnect the throttle body at the intake
plenum.
Fig. 34 Intake manifold bolt torque sequence - 5. Disconnect the EGR valve at the intake
2.8L (VIN X) engine plenum.
1. Remove the air cleaner and the PCV valve.
2. Drain the cooling system into a clean 6. Remove the intake plenum.
container. 8. Remove the carburetor linkage. 7. Disconnect the fuel inlet and return pipes at
Disconnect and plug the fuel line. the fuel rail.
3. Disconnect the fuel and vacuum lines and
the electrical connections at the carburetor and If equipped with an MFI system, 8. Remove the serpentine belt.
manifold. remove any component which will 9. Remove the power steering pump and lay
interfere with the intake manifold it aside.
4. Disconnect the throttle linkage at the EFI
removal. 10. Disconnect the alternator and lay it aside.
unit and disconnect the transaxle downshift
11. Loosen the alternator bracket.
linkage and cruise control linkage. 9. Remove the manifold retaining bolts and
12. Disconnect the idle air vacuum hose at
5. Remove the carburetor and the spacer. nuts.
the throttle body.
6. Remove the bell crank and the throttle 10. Remove the intake manifold. Remove and
13. Disconnect the wires at the injectors.
linkage. Position to the side for clearance. discard the gaskets, and scrape off the old
14. Disconnect the fuel rail.
7. Remove the heater hose at the intake - silicone seal from the front and rear ridges.
15. Remove the breather tube.
manifold. To install:
16. Remove both rocker covers.
8. Remove the pulse air check valve bracket 1. The gaskets are marked for right and left
17. Drain the cooling system.
from the manifold. side installation; do not interchange them. Clean
18. Disconnect the radiator hose at the
9. Remove the manifold attaching bolt and the sealing surface of the engine block, and
thermostat housing.
remove the manifold. apply a 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9/16 in. (5mm) bead of silicone sealer to
19. Disconnect the wires at the coolant
each ridge.
2.8L Engine sensor and the oil sending switch.
2. Install the new gaskets onto the heads. The
20. Remove the coolant sensor.
gaskets will have to be cut slightly to fit past the
CARBURETED ENGINE 21. Disconnect the bypass hose at the fill
center pushrods. Do not cut any more material
1. Remove the rocker covers. neck and head.
than necessary. Hold the gaskets in place by
2. Drain the cooling system. 22. Loosen the rocker arms and remove the
extending the ridge bead of sealer ’A in. (6mm)
3. If equipped, remove the AIR pump and pushrods.
onto the gasket ends.
bracket. 23. Remove the intake manifold bolts and
3. Install the intake manifold. The area
4. Remove the distributor cap. Mark the remove the intake manifold.
between the ridges and the manifold should be
position of the ignition rotor in relation to the To install:
completely sealed.
distributor body, and remove the distributor. Do 24. Place a 3/16 in. (5mm) diameter bead GM
4. Install the retaining bolts and nuts, and
not crank the engine with the distributor sealer 1052917 or equivalent, on each ridge.
tighten in sequence to 23 ft. lbs. Do not
removed. 25. Position a new intake manifold gasket.
overtighten; the manifold is made from
5. Remove the heater and radiator hoses 26. Install the pushrods and tighten the
aluminum, and can be warped or cracked with
from the intake manifold. rocker arm nuts to 14-20 ft. lbs. (19-27 Nm).
excessive force.
27. Install the intake manifold and torque the
6. Remove the power brake vacuum hose. 5. The rest of installation is the reverse of
7. Disconnect and label the vacuum hoses. removal. Adjust the ignition timing after bolts to specifications.
Remove the EFE pipe from the rear of the installation, and check the coolant level after the 28. Connect the bypass hose to the filler neck
manifold. engine has warmed up. and head.
29. Install the coolant sensor.
30. Connect the wires to the coolant sensor
and the oil sending switch.
31. Connect the radiator hose to the
thermostat housing.
32. Install both rocker covers.
33. Install the breather tube.
34. Connect the fuel rail.
35. Connect the wires to the injectors.
36. Connect the idle air vacuum hose to the
throttle body.
37. Tighten the alternator bracket.
38. Connect the alternator electrical
connectors.
39. Install the power steering pump.
3-46 ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL
1. Piston ring
2. Piston
3. Piston pin
4. Connecting rod
5. Connecting rod bolt

B
6. Connecting rod

4E*}+—
bearing
7. Connecting rod nut
8. Pushrod cover
9. Pushrod cover stud
10. Cylinder head dowel
pin I—|
11. Trans line up pin
12. Camshaft rear
bearing plug
13. Cylinder and case oil
gallery plug
14. Oil level indicator
tube
15. Oil level indicator
16. Oil level indicator
tube seal
17. Engine block heater
18. Engine block heater
bolt
19. Flywheel to
crankshaft bolt
20. Flywheel
21. Flywheel to
crankshaft spacer
22. Crankshaft insert
23. Crankshaft rear oil
seal
24. Coolant drain bolt
25. Engine
26. Crankshaft rear
bearing
27. Crankshaft bearing
28. Crankshaft
29. Crankshaft gear key
30. Crankshaft sprocket
31. Bearing cap
32. Crankshaft bearing
cap
33. Gear
34. Spring pin
35. Oil pressure
regulator spring 55. Oil pump gear
36. Oil pressure 56. Balancer bolt
regulator valve 57. Balancer bolt
37. Bolt 58. Screw
38. Oil pump screw 59. Balancer pump shaft
39. Oil pump cover 60. Baffle
40. Internal oil filter 61. Bushing Camshaft sprocket
41. Starter 62. Balancer housing key
42. Starter bolt 63. Housing dow pin i^KjinKS' Camshaft
43.
44.
Starter bolt
Washer
64. Bolt _- @ Camshaft bearing
65. Seal Valve lifter guide
45. Starter bracket 66. Pully retainer
46. Nut 67. Washer 77. Coolant plug Push rod cover stud
47. Bolt 68. Bolt 78. Roller lifter Coolant pump pulley
48. Oil pan 69. Front cover seal 79. Valve lifter guide Coolant pump
49. Oil pan drain adn 70. Crankshaft pulley 80. Bolt Bolt
filter gasket bolt 81. Washer Coolant pump bolt
50. Oil pan and filter 71. Drive belt tensioner 82. Camshaft timing Bolt
plug 72. Oil gallery plug chain Coolant pump inlet
51. Drain plug 73. Coil and module 83. Camshaft sprocket Bolt/Screw
52. Gasket 74. Module studs 84. Bolt Fuel feed and return
53. Bolt 75. Bolt 85. Camshaft thrust pipe clip bracket
54. Pump screen 76. Switch/sensor bearing 99. Nut

Fig. 106 Exploded view of 4 cylinder engine - 2.5L (VIN R) engine with timing chain shown
 ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL 3-47
remove the Torx® head bolt from the left side of
m 22 N-m (16 LB. FT.) the manifold.
THEN 32 N-m (23 LB. FT.) 8. Unbolt and remove the manifold.
RETORQUE 32 N-m 9. To install reverse steps 1 through 8. When
(23 LB. FT.) IN SEQUENCE
installing the front and rear seals, make sure that
(?) ® (D <D the ends of the seals fit snugly against the block
(t> (D ® ® and head. Install nos. 1 & 2 bolts first and tighten
them until snug, then install the other bolts in
order.
3.1 L ENGINE
1. Relieve the pressure in the fuel system
before disconnecting any fuel line connections.
2. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
On the 3.1 L engines if battery
power is lost to the engine
computer the idle learn memory
will be lost, causing poor or no Idle
control. A special Scan Tool, should
be used to perform the Idle Learn
procedure.
3. Disconnect the accelerator and TV cable
bracket at the intake plenum.
Fig. 35 Intake manifold bolt torque sequence - 2.8L (VIN W) and 3.1 L (VIN T) engines 4. Disconnect the throttle body at the intake
plenum.
5. Disconnect the EGR valve at the intake
4 * plenum.
6. Remove the intake plenum.
7. Disconnect the fuel inlet and return pipes at
the fuel rail.
8. Remove the serpentine belt.
9. Remove the power steering pump and lay
it aside.
10. Disconnect the alternator and lay it aside.
11. Loosen the alternator bracket.
12. Disconnect the idle air vacuum hose at
the throttle body.
13. Disconnect the wires at the injectors.

y\Mi 14. Disconnect the fuel rail.

15. Remove the breather tube.
16. Remove both rocker covers.
tV\ , W III v- AAV A'-,* S\IW)\ 17. Drain the cooling system.
Fig. 36 Intake manifold bolt torque sequence - 3.0L (VIN E) and 3.8L (VIN 3) engines 18. Disconnect the radiator hose at the
thermostat housing.
19. Disconnect the wires at the coolant
40. Install the serpentine belt. 3.0L Engine sensor and the oil sending switch.
41. Connect the fuel inlet and return pipes to 1. Disconnect the battery ground. 20. Remove the coolant sensor.
the fuel rail. 2. Drain the cooling system. 21. Disconnect the bypass hose at the fill
42. Install the intake plenum. 3. Remove the air cleaner. neck and head.
43. Connect the EGR valve to the intake 4. Disconnect all hoses and wiring from the 22. Loosen the rocker arms and remove the
plenum. manifold. pushrods.
44. Connect the throttle body to the intake 5. Disconnect the accelerator linkage and 23. Remove the intake manifold bolts and
plenum. cruise control chain. remove the intake manifold.
45. Connect the accelerator and TV cable To Install:
bracket to the intake plenum. If equipped with an MFI system,
remove any component which will 24. Place a 3/16 in. (5mm) diameter bead GM
46. Connect the negative battery cable. sealer 1052917 or equivalent, on each ridge.
47. Fill cooling system and check for leaks. Interfere with the Intake manifold
removal. 25. Position a new intake manifold gasket.
Start the engine and allow to come to normal 26. Install the pushrods and tighten the
operating temperature. Check for leaks and top 6. Disconnect the fuel line. rocker arm nuts to 14-20 ft. lbs. (19-27 Nm).
off the coolant. 7. Remove the distributor cap and rotor and
48. Adjust the valve, as required.
3-48 ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL
27. Install the intake manifold and torque the
bolts to specifications.
28. Connect the bypass hose to the filler neck
and head.
29. Install the coolant sensor.
30. Connect the wires to the coolant sensor
and the oil sending switch.
31. Connect the radiator hose to the
thermostat housing.
32. Install both rocker covers.
33. Install the breather tube.
34. Connect the fuel rail.
35. Connect the wires to the injectors.
36. Connect the idle air vacuum hose to the
throttle body.
37. Tighten the alternator bracket.
38. Connect the alternator electrical
connectors.
39. Install the power steering pump.
40. Install the serpentine belt.
41. Connect the fuel inlet and return pipes to
the fuel rail.
42. Install the intake plenum.
43. Connect the EGR valve to the intake
plenum.
44. Connect the throttle body to the intake
plenum.
45. Connect the accelerator and TV cable
bracket to the intake plenum.
46. Connect the negative battery cable.
47. Fill cooling system and check for leaks.
Start the engine and allow to come to normal
operating temperature. Recheck for leaks. Top-
up coolant.
48. Adjust the valve, as required. compound 1052624 or equivalent, to the intake 3. Remove the mass air flow sensor and air
manifold bolt threads before assembly. intake duct.
3.3L Engine
12. Install the new gasket and intake 4. Remove the serpentine accessory drive
1. Relieve the pressure in the fuel system manifold. Tighten the intake manifold bolts twice belt, alternator and bracket.
before disconnecting any fuel line connections. to 88 inch lbs. (10 Nm) in the proper sequence. 5. Remove the ignition coil module, TV cable,
2. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 13. Install the fuel rail, vapor canister purge throttle cable and cruise control cable.
3. Drain the cooling system. line and heater hose from the throttle body. 6. Disconnect and tag all vacuum hoses and
4. Remove the serpentine belt, alternator and 14. Connect all vacuum hoses and electrical electrical wiring, as necessary.
braces and power steering pump braces. connectors. 7. Drain the cooling system. Remove the
5. Remove the coolant bypass hose, heater 15. Install the air inlet duct, throttle cable heater hoses from the throttle body and upper
pipe and upper radiator hose. bracket and cables. radiator hose.
6. Remove the air inlet duct, throttle cable 16. Install the coolant bypass hose, heater 8. Disconnect the fuel lines from the fuel rail
bracket and cables. pipe and upper radiator hose. and injectors.
7. Disconnect and tag all vacuum hoses and 17. Install the serpentine belt, alternator and 9. Remove the intake manifold retaining bolts
electrical connectors, as necessary. braces and power steering pump braces. and remove the intake manifold and gasket.
8. Remove the fuel rail, vapor canister purge 18. Connect the negative battery cable. To install:
line and heater hose from the throttle body. 19. Fill cooling system and check for leaks. 10. Clean the cylinder head and intake
9. Remove the intake manifold retaining bolts Start the engine and allow to come to normal manifold surfaces from any foreign matter, nicks
and intake manifold. operating temperature. Recheck for leaks. Top- or heavy scratches.
To install: up coolant. 11. Install the intake manifold gasket and
10. Clean the cylinder head and intake rubber seals. Apply sealer 1050026 or
manifold surfaces from any foreign matter, nicks 3.8L Engine equivalent, on the gasket. Apply sealer/lubricant
or heavy scratches. 1. Relieve the pressure in the fuel system 1052080 or equivalent, to all pipe thread fitting.
11. Apply sealer 12345336 or equivalent, to before disconnecting any fuel line connections. 12. Carefully install the intake manifold to
the ends of the manifold seals. Clean the intake 2. Disconnect the negative battery cable. cylinder block. Install the intake manifoid bolts
manifold bolts and bolt holes. Apply thread lock and torque in sequence to the specified value.
 ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL 3-49
13. Connect the fuel lines to the fuel rail and 19. Clean the machined surfaces of cylinder engine damage if not installed in their original
injectors. head and intake manifold with a putty knife. Use positions!
14. Install the heater hoses to the throttle care not to gouge or scratch the machined 1. Remove intake manifold. Refer to Intake
body and upper radiator hose. surfaces. Clean all bolts and bolt holes. Manifold.
15. Connect all vacuum hoses and electrical 20. Coat both sides of gasket sealing surface 2. Remove valve covers, rocker arm
wiring. that seal the intake manifold to the head with assemblies and pushrods.
16. Install the ignition coil module, TV cable, 1050026 sealer or equivalent and position intake 3. Remove the valve lifter guide retainer
throttle cable and cruise control cable. manifold gasket. Install end seals, making sure bolts.
17. Install the bracket, alternator and that ends are positioned under the cylinder 4. Remove the retainer guides and valve
serpentine belt. heads. The seals and mating surfaces must be lifters.
18. Install the mass air flow sensor and air dry. Any liquid, including sealer will act as a
intake duct. lubricant and cause the seal to move during
19. Connect the negative battery cable. assembly. Use RTV sealer only on each end of
20. Fill cooling system and check for leaks. the seal.
DISASSEMBLY
Start the engine and allow to come to normal 21. Position intake manifold on engine.
operating temperature. Recheck for leaks. Top- Lubricate the entire intake manifold bolt (all) with 1. Remove the retainer ring with a small
up coolant. lubricant 1052080 or equivalent. screwdriver.
22. Torque the bolts in sequence shown to 2. Remove pushrod seat and oil metering
6-4.3L Diesel Engine
20 ft. lbs. Then retorque to 41 ft lbs. valve.
This procedure requires the 23. Install the drain tube. 3. Remove plunger and plunger spring.
removal, disassembly draining and 24. Install the pump adapter. 4. Remove check valve retainer from plunger,
reassembly of the valve lifters. 25. Apply chassis lube to seal area of intake then remove valve and spring.
Read that procedure, below, before manifold and pump adapter.
continuing. 26. Apply chassis lube to inside and outside
1. Remove the air cleaner assembly. diameter of seal and seal area of tool J—28425. CLEANING AND INSPECTION
2. Drain the radiator, then disconnect the 27. Install seal on tool and install the seal.
upper radiator hose from the water outlet. 28. Install intermediate pump adapter.
3. Disconnect the heater inlet hose from the After lifters are disassembled, all parts should
29. Reverse the order of removal and install be cleaned in clean solvent. A small particle of
outlet on intake manifold and disconnect the all other removed parts except the air crossover.
heater outlet pipe from the intake manifold foreign material under the check valve will cause
30. Rll the cooling system. malfunctioning of the lifter. Close inspection
attachments and move it aside. 31. Install manifold covers, J—29657.
4. Remove air crossover and the fuel should be made for nicks, burrs or scoring of
32. Start engine and check for leaks. parts. If either the roller body or plunger is
injection pump.
33. Check and if necessary, reset the defective, replace with a new lifter assembly.
5. Disconnect wiring as necessary at the
generator (and air conditioning compressor) and injection pump timing. Whenever lifters are removed, check as follows:
switches (if so equipped). 34. Remove screen covers from manifold. 1. Roller should rotate freely, but without
6. Remove the cruise control servo if so 35. Install air crossover. excessive play.
equipped. 36. Install the air cleaner. 2. Check for missing or broken needle
7. Remove the air conditioning compressor 37. Road test car and inspect for leaks. bearings.
bracket and brace bolts and position the 3. Roller should be free of pits or roughness.
compressor (if so equipped) with lines attached If present, check camshaft for similar condition.
out of the way. If pits or roughness are evident replace lifter and
8. Remove the generator assembly. Diesel Engine Valve camshaft.
9. Disconnect the engine mounting strut. Lifter Bleed-Down
10. Remove the fuel lines, filter and brackets.
Cap all openings.
ASSEMBLY
If the intake manifold and valve rocker arms
11. Disconnect the electrical leads to the
have been removed, it will be necessary to
glow plug controller and sending units. 1. Coat all lifter parts with a coating of clean
remove, disassemble, drain and reassemble the
12. Disconnect the exhaust crossover pipe kerosene or diesel fuel.
lifters on that side. If the rocker arms have been
heat shield. 2. Assemble the ball check, spring and
13. Remove the left (forward) injection lines loosened or removed, but the intake manifold
was not removed, skip down to the Bleed-Down retainer into the plunger.
and cap all openings. Use backup wrench on the 3. Install plunger spring over check retainer.
procedure.
nozzles. 4. Hold plunger with spring up and insert into
14. Disconnect the throttle and T.V. cables lifter body. Hold plunger vertically to prevent
from the bracket. cocking spring.
15. Remove the drain tube. REMOVAL
5. Submerge the lifter in clean kerosene or
16. Remove the intermediate pump adapter. diesel fuel.
17. Remove pump adapter and seal. Keep lifters and pushrods in order! This is 6. Install oil metering valve and pushrod seat
18. Remove the intake manifold. absolutely necessary for installation, since these into lifter and install retaining ring.
parts have differences which could result in
3-50 ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL
INSTALLATION indicated by strong resistance while still turning
the pivot retaining bolts. Going beyond this
would bend the pushrod.
Prime new lifters by working lifter plunger 6. DO NOT turn the engine crankshaft for at
while submerged in clean kerosene or diesel least 45 minutes.
fuel. Lifter could be damaged when starting 7. Finish reassembling the engine as the
engine if dry. lifters are being bled.
1. When a rocker arm is loosened or
Do not rotate the engine until the
removed, valve lifter bleed down is required.
valve lifters have been bleed down,
Lifters must be bled down as possible valve to
or damage to the engine will occur.
piston interference due to the close tolerances
could exist. Before installing a new or used lifter
in the engine, lubricate the roller and bearings of
the lifter with No. 1052365 lubricant or Exhaust Manifold
equivalent.
2. Install lifters and pushrods into original | SEE FIGS. 39 and 40
position in cylinder block. See note under
Removal. REMOVAL & INSTALLATION BOLT LOCATIONS
3. Install manifold gaskets and manifold.
4. Position rocker arms, pivots and bolts on Fig. 39 Exhaust manifold bolt torque
cylinder head. sequence - 2.5L (VIN R) engine
2.5L Engine
5. Install valve covers.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
6. Install intake manifold assembly.
Remove the air cleaner and the TBI preheat tube.
2. Remove the manifold strut bolts from the To install:
radiator support panel and the cylinder head. 5. Clean the mating surfaces of the cylinder
BLEED-DOWN 3. Remove the air conditioning compressor head and manifold. Install the manifold onto the
bracket to one side. Do not disconnect any of the head, and install the retaining bolts finger tight.
refrigerant lines. 6. Tighten the manifold bolts in a circular
1. Before installing any removed rocker
4. If necessary, remove the dipstick tube pattern, working from the center to the ends, to
arms, rotate the engine crankshaft to a position
attaching bolt and the engine mount bracket from 25 ft. lbs. in two stages.
of number 1 cylinder being 32° before top dead
the cylinder head. 7. Connect the exhaust pipe to the manifold.
center. This is a 50mm (2 in.) counterclockwise
5. Raise the vehicle and support safely. 8. The remainder of installation is the reverse
from the 0 pointer. If only the right valve cover
Disconnect the exhaust pipe from the manifold. of removal.
was removed, remove No. 1 cylinder’s glow
plug to determine if the position of the piston is 6. Remove the manifold attaching bolts and RIGHT SIDE
the correct one. The compression pressure will remove the manifold. 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
tell you that you are in the right position. If the left To install: 2. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
valve cover was removed, rotate the crankshaft 7. Install the exhaust manifold and gasket to 3. Disconnect the exhaust pipe and lower the
until the number 5 cylinder intake valve pushrod the cylinder head. Torque all bolts in sequence to vehicle.
ball is 7.0mm (0.28 in.) above the number 5 the specified torque value. 4. Remove the air cleaner assembly,
cylinder exhaust valve pushrod ball. 8. Connect the exhaust pipe to the manifold. breather, mass air flow sensor and heat shield.
Lower the vehicle. 5. Remove the crossover at the manifold.
r+ Use only hand wrenches to torque
9. Install the dipstick tube attaching bolt and 6. Remove the accelerator and TV cables and
the rocker arm pivot nuts to avoid
the engine mount bracket to the cylinder head. brackets, as required.
engine damage.
10. Install the air conditioning compressor 7. Remove the exhaust manifold retaining
2. If removed, install the No. 5 cylinder pivot bracket. bolts and remove the manifold.
and rocker arms. Torque the nuts alternately 11. Install the manifold strut bolts to the To install:
between the intake and exhaust valves until the radiator support panel and the cylinder head. 8. Install the exhaust manifold and retaining
intake valve begins to open, then stop. 12. Install the air cleaner and the TBI preheat bolts. Tighten to 15-22 ft. lbs. (20-30 Nm).
3. Install remaining rocker arms except No. 3 tube. 9. If removed, install the accelerator, TV
exhaust valve. (If this rocker arm was removed). 13. Connect the negative battery cable. cables and brackets.
4. If removed, install but do not torque No. 3 10. Install the crossover at the manifold.
valve pivots beyond the point that the valve 2.8L Engine
11. Install the air cleaner assembly, breather,
would be fully open. This is indicated by strong LEFTSIDE mass air flow sensor and heat shield.
resistance while still turning the pivot retaining 1. Remove the air cleaner. Remove the 12. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
bolts. Going beyond this would bend the exhaust crossover pipe. 13. Connect the exhaust pipe and lower the
pushrod. Torque the nuts SLOWLY allowing the 2. Remove the air supply plumbing from the vehicle.
lifter to bleed down. exhaust manifold, if equipped. 14. Connect the negative battery cable.
5. Finish torquing No. 5 cylinder rocker arm 3. Raise and support the car. Unbolt and
pivot nut SLOWLY. Do not go beyond the point remove the exhaust pipe at the manifold.
that the valve would be fully open. This is 4. Unbolt and remove the manifold.
 ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL 3-51

1. Rail
2. Nut
3. Hose
4. Seal
5. Flange
6. Bolt
7. Pipe
8. Cap seal
9. Cover
10. Bolt
11. Washer *
12. Seal pipe
13. Bolt
14. Bracket
15. Bracket
16. Pipe
17. Nut
18. Body
19. Bolt
20. Gasket
21. Outlet
22. Bolt
23. Stud
24. Key
25. Cap
26. Seal
27. Spring
28. Bolt
29. Arm and pivot
30. Thermostat
31. Stud
32. Lifter
33. Guide tube
34. Guide
35. Rod
36. Arm and pedestal
37. Head
38. Gasket
39. Plug
40. Brace
41. Bolt
42. Bracket
43. Pin
44. Valve
45. Indicator
46. Bolt
47. Nut
48. Shield
49. Nut
50. Tube
51. Bolt
52. Bolt
53. Bolt
54. Stud
55. Manifold
68. Bolt
56. Manifold
69. Bolt 80. Harness and bracket
57. Spacer
70. Tensioner 81. Manifold
58. Bolt
71. Sensor 82. Sensor
59. Channel kit
72. Sensor 83. Shield
60. Bolt
73. Bracket 84. Grommet
61. Bracket
74. Pipe 85. Grommet
62. Nut
75. Retainer 86. Valve
63. Stud
76. Gasket 87. Clamp
64. Support
77. Gasket 88. Grommet
65. Module
78. Manifold 89. Brace
66. Harness
79. Gasket 90. Spring
67. Stud

Fig. 104 Exploded view of 6 cylinder upper engine - 3.3L (VIN N) engine shown
3-52 ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL
1. Block 26. Seal 44. Bolt 62. Bolt 71. Plate
2. Pin 27. Seal 45. Bolt 63. Switch 72. Bolt
3. Plug 28. Bolt 46. Reinforcement 64. Gasket 73. Bearing
4. Bearing 29. Cover 47. Gasket 65. Valve 74. Plug
5. Rod 30. Pump 48. Nut 66. Bolt 75. Sensor
6. Piston 31. Gasket 49. Bolt 67. Chain 76. Plug
7. Ring 32. Cover 50. Bolt 68. Sprocket 77. Pin
8. Plug 33. Crank sensor 51. Bolt 69. Damperner 78. Filter
9. Plug 34. Cap 52. Washer 70. Camshaft 79. Plug
10. Heater 35. Gasket 53. Balancer
11. Flywheel 36. Housing 54. Sensor shield
12. Bolt 37. Bolt 55. Seal
13. Motor 38. Cap 56. Gasket
14. Pin 39. Cap 57. Pump kit
15. Bolt 40. Bolt 58. Pulley
16. Spring 41. Gasket 59. Bolt
17. Hose 42. Pan 60. Bolt
18. Clamp 43. Bolt 61. Adapter rzn
19. Sprocket [751
20. Crankshaft
21. Key
22. Bearing
23. Bolt
24. Bolt
25. Cap

Fig. 104 Exploded view of 6 cylinder lower engine - 3.3L (VIN N) engine shown
 ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL 3-53

3.0L Engine turns into the cage nuts, then slowly release the 12. Install the heat shield, if equipped.
jack. 13. If removed, install the right side torque
LEFTSIDE 7. Remove the power steering pump and strut, air conditioning and torque strut mounting
1. Disconnect the battery ground. bracket, then move it aside. bracket.
2. Unbolt and remove the crossover pipe. 8. Disconnect the oxygen sensor connector. 14. If removed, install the air conditioning
3. Remove the upper engine support strut. 9. Remove the crossover pipe-to-manifold compressor.
4. Unbolt and remove the manifold. nuts, the exhaust manifold bolts and the 15. If removed, install the serpentine belt and
5. To install reverse steps 1 through 4. manifold. cover.
10. To install, reverse the removal 16. If removed, install the coolant recovery
RIGHT SIDE procedures. bottle.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 17. Install the air supply plumbing to the
2. Remove the intermediate shaft pinch bolt 3.1 L ENGINES
exhaust manifold.
and separate the intermediate shaft from the stub 18. Connect the negative battery cable.
LEFTSIDE
shaft.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. RIGHT SIDE
2. Remove the air supply plumbing from the 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
❖❖CAUTION exhaust manifold, as required. 2. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
3. Remove the coolant recovery bottle, if 3. Disconnect the exhaust pipe and lower the
Failure to disconnect the necessary.
intermediate shaft from the rack vehicle.
4. Remove the serpentine belt cover and belt, 4. Remove the air cleaner assembly,
and pinion stub shaft can result In
as required. breather, mass air flow sensor and heat shield.
damage to the steering gear and/or
5. Remove the air conditioning compressor 5. Remove the crossover at the manifold.
the Intermediate shaft. This
and lay aside, if necessary. 6. Remove the accelerator and TV cables and
damage can cause loss of steering
6. Remove the right side torque strut, air brackets, as required.
control. conditioning and torque strut mounting bracket, 7. Remove the exhaust manifold retaining
as required. bolts and remove the manifold.
7. Remove the heat shield, if equipped. To install:
3. Raise the support the vehicle on
8. Remove the exhaust crossover pipe at the 8. Install the exhaust manifold and retaining
jackstands.
manifold. bolts. Tighten to 15-22 ft. lbs. (20-30 Nm).
4. Remove the exhaust pipe-to-manifold
9. Remove the exhaust manifold retaining 9. If removed, install the accelerator, TV
bolts, then lower the vehicle.
5. Place a jack under the front crossmember bolts and manifold. cables and brackets.
To install: 10. Install the crossover at the manifold.
of the cradle, then raise the jack until it starts to
raise the vehicle and remove the two front body 10. Install the exhaust manifold and retaining 11. Install the air cleaner assembly, breather,
bolts. Tighten to 15-22 ft. lbs. (20-30). mass air flow sensor and heat shield.
mount bolts.
11. Install the exhaust crossover pipe at the 12. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
6. With the cushions removed, thread the
body mount bolts and retainers at least three manifold.
3-54 ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL
13. Connect the exhaust pipe and lower the Failure to disconnect the 4.3L Diesel Engine
vehicle. Intermediate shaft from the rack
and pinion stub shaft may result In LEFTSIDE
14. Connect the negative battery cable.
damage to the steering gear and/or 1. Remove the crossover pipe from the
3.3L Engine intermediate shaft. manifolds.
2. Raise and support the car on jackstands.
LEFTSIDE 2. Remove the pinch bolt from the
3. Unbolt and remove the manifold.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. intermediate shaft and separate the intermediate
4. Installation is the reverse of removal.
2. Remove the air cleaner inlet ducting. Install shaft from the stub shaft.
Lubricate the entire length of each manifold bolt
the spark plug wires. 3. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
with lubricant 1052080 or its equivalent
3. Remove the 2 bolts attaching the exhaust 4. Remove the 2 bolts attaching the exhaust
crossover pipe to the manifold. pipe to the manifold. RIGHT SIDE
4. Remove the engine lift hook, manifold heat 5. Lower the vehicle. 1. Remove the engine support strut.
shield and oil level indicator. 6. Remove the upper engine support strut. 2. Place a floor jack under the front
5. Remove the exhaust manifold retaining 7. Place a jack under the front crossmember crossmember and take up the weight of the car.
bolts and remove the manifold. of the cradle and raise the jack until it starts to 3. Remove the two front body mount bolts.
To Install: raise the vehicle. Remove the cushions from the bolts.
6. Install the exhaust manifold and retaining 8. Remove the 2 front body mount bolts. 4. Thread the body mount bolts with their
bolts. Tighten to 30 ft. lbs. (41 Nm). 9. With the cushions removed, thread the retainers into the cage nuts so that the bolts
7. Install the engine lift hook, manifold heat body mount bolts and retainers a minimum of 3 restrict movement of the engine cradle.
shield and oil level indicator. turns into the cage nuts. 5. Lower the jack until the crossmember
8. Install the 2 bolts attaching the exhaust 10. Release the jack slowly. contacts the body mount bolt retainers. Check
crossover pipe to the manifold. To avoid damage, do not lower the for any hose or wire interference.
9. Install the air cleaner inlet ducting. Install cradle without it being restrained. 6. Remove the crossover pipe.
the spark plug wires. 7. Raise and support the car on jackstands.
1 i. Remove the power steering pump and
10. Connect the negative battery cable. 8. Disconnect the exhaust pipe from the
bracket from the cylinder head and exhaust
manifold.
RIGHT SIDE manifold.
9. Lower the car.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 12. Disconnect the oxygen sensor.
10. Unbolt and remove the manifold.
2. Remove the spark plug wires, oxygen 13. If removing the left side exhaust manifold, 11. Installation is the reverse of removal.
sensor connector, throttle cable bracket and remove the upper engine support strut. Lubricate the entire length of each manifold bolt
cables. 14. Remove the 2 nuts retaining the with lubricant 1052080 or its equivalent.
3. Remove the brake booster hose from the crossover pipe to the exhaust manifold.
manifold. 15. Remove the 6 bolts attaching the
4. Remove the 2 bolts attaching the exhaust manifold to the cylinder head.
crossover pipe to the manifold. 16. Remove the exhaust manifold.
Radiator
5. Remove the exhaust pipe-to-manifold To install:
bolts, engine lift hook and transaxle oil level 17. Carefully, clean the gasket sealing REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
indicator tube. surfaces of old gasket material.
6. Remove the manifold heat shield. Remove 18. Install the exhaust manifold and the
the exhaust manifold retaining bolts and remove manifold-to-cylinder head bolts. Tighten to 37 ft.
All Models
the manifold. lbs. (50 Nm).
To install: 19. If the left side exhaust manifold was 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. On
7. Install the exhaust manifold and retaining removed, install the crossover pipe to the 3.1 L and 3.3L engines remove the air cleaner
bolts. Tighten to 30 ft. lbs. (41 Nm). Install the manifold. assembly.
manifold heat shield. 20. If the right side exhaust manifold was 2. Drain the cooling system.
8. Install the exhaust pipe-to-manifold bolts, removed, install the upper engine support strut.
engine lift hook and transaxle oil level indicator 21. Connect the oxygen sensor wire.
tube. 22. Install the power steering pump and
** CAUTION
9. Install the 2 bolts attaching the exhaust bracket. When draining the coolant, keep In
crossover pipe to the manifold. 23. Support the cradle with the jack. Remove mind that cats and dogs are
10. Install the brake booster hose to the the 2 body mount bolts and install the cushions. attracted by the ethylene glycol
manifold. 24. Raise the cradle into position and install antifreeze, and are quite likely to
11. Install the spark plug wires, oxygen the 2 body mount bolts. drink any that is left In an
sensor connector, throttle cable bracket and 25. Remove the jack. uncovered container or In puddles
cables. 26. Connect the intermediate shaft to the stub on the ground. This will prove fatal
12. Connect the negative battery cable. shaft and install the pinch bolt. in sufficient quantity. Always drain
27. Raise and safely support the vehicle. the coolant Into a sealable
3.8L ENGINE
28. Install the exhaust pipe-to-manifold bolts. container. Coolant should be
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 29. Lower the vehicle. reused unless it is contaminated or
30. Connect the negative battery cable. several years old.
 ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL 3-55
3. Remove the forward strut brace for the 6. Install the fan frame-to-radiator support 4. With the sealant surfaces cleaned, place a
engine at the radiator. Loosen the bolt to prevent bolts. 2mm (* 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9/32 in.) bead of sealant #1
shearing the rubber bushing, then swing the strut 7. Connect the electrical connector to the fan equivalent on the water pump sealing surface.
rearward. motor. 5. Clean old sealant from pump.
4. On 2.5L engine, remove the resonator 8. Connect the negative battery cable. 6. Coat bolt threads with pipe sealant
mounting and resonator. Disconnect the #1052080 or equivalent.
headlamp wiring harness from the fan frame. 7. Install pump and torque bolts to 10 ft. lbs.
Unplug the fan electrical connector. Water Pump 8. Connect battery negative battery cable.
5. Remove the attaching bolts for the fan.
When replacing the water pump
6. Scribe the hood latch location on the
on a car equipped with the V6
radiator support, then remove the latch.
engine, the timing cover must be
7. Disconnect the coolant hoses from the REMOVAL & INSTALLATION clamped to the cylinder block
radiator. Remove the coolant recovery tank hose PRIOR TO removing the water pump
from the radiator neck. Disconnect and plug the bolts. Certain bolts holding the
automatic transmission fluid cooler lines from water pump pass through the front
the radiator, if so equipped. On the diesel engine,
« CAUTION cover and when removed, may
disconnect the engine oil cooler hoses. allow the front cover to pull away
8. Remove the radiator attaching bolts and When draining the coolant, keep In from the cylinder block, breaking
remove the radiator, if the car has air mind that cats and dogs are the seal. This may or may not be
conditioning, if first may be necessary to raise attracted by the ethylene glycol readily apparent and If left
the left side of the radiator so that the radiator antifreeze, and are quite likely to undetected, could allow coolant to
neck will clear the compressor. drink any that Is left In an enter the crankcase. To prevent
To Install: uncovered container or In puddles this possible separation during
on the ground. This will prove fatal
If a new radiator Is going to be water pump removal, Special Tool
in sufficient quantity. Always drain
installed, check that all the fittings #J29176 will have to be Installed.
and brackets from the old radiator the coolant into a sealable
container. Coolant should be 3.0L Engine
are removed, you’ll need them on
reused unless It Is contaminated or 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable and
the new one.
several years old. drain the coolant.
9. Install the radiator in the car, tightening the
mounting bolts to 7 inch lbs. Connect the 2. Remove accessory drive belts. Removed
transmission cooler lines and hoses. Install the the radiator and the heater hoses from the water
coolant recovery hose. 2.5L Engine pump.
1. Disconnect battery negative cable. 3. Remove water pump attaching bolts.
10. Install the hood latch. Tighten to 6 ft lbs.
11. Install the fan, making sure the bottom leg 2. Drain the cooling system. 4. Remove the engine support strut.
of the frame fits into the rubber grommet at the 3. Remove serpentine belt, removal of the 5. Place a floor jack under the front
lower support. alternator and/or bracket may help give more crossmember of the cradle and raise the jack
12. Install the fan wires and the headlamp room for easier access. until the jack just starts to raise the car.
wiring harness. Swing the strut and brace 4. Remove water pump attaching boits and 6. Remove the front two body mount bolts
forward, tightening to 11 ft. lbs. nut and remove pump. with the lower cushions and retainers.
13. Connect the engine ground strap to the To install: 7. Remove the cushions from the bolts.
strut brace. Install the negative battery cable, fill 8. Thread the body mount bolts with retainers
5. Clean the sealing surfaces and place a y32
the cooling system, and check for leaks. a minimum of three (3) turns into the cage nuts
in. (2mm) bead of RTV sealant or equivalent on
so that the bolts restrain cradle movement.
the water pump sealing surface.
9. Release the floor jack slowly until the
6. Coat bolt threads with pipe sealant
crossmember contacts the body mount bolts
Electric Cooling Fan 1052080 or equivalent.
retainers. As the jack is being lowered watch and
7. Install pump and torque bolts to 10 ft. lbs.
correct any interference with hoses, lines, pipes
8. Connect the negative battery cable.
and cables.
9. Fill cooling system and check for leaks.
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Start the engine and allow to come to normal Do not lower the cradle without
operating temperature. Recheck for leaks. Top- its being restrained as possible
up coolant. damage can occur to the body and
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
underhood Items.
2. Tag and disconnect the electrical
2.8L Engine 10. Remove water pump from engine.
connector from the fan motor and fan frame.
3. Remove the fan frame-to-radiator support 1. Disconnect battery negative cable. 11. Reverse removal procedure.
bolts. 2. Drain cooling system and remove heater 12. Install pump and torque to 25 ft. lbs.
4. Remove the fan and frame assembly from hose. 13. Connect negative battery cable.
the vehicle. 3. Remove water pump attaching bolts and 14. Fill with coolant and check for leaks.
To install: nut and remove pump.
3.1 L Engine
5. Install the fan and frame assembly to the
vehicle. 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
3-56 ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL
On the 3.1 L engines If battery 2. Drain cooling system. attracted by the ethylene glycol
power is lost to the engine 3. Remove the serpentine drive belt. antifreeze, and are quite likely to
computer the idle learn memory 4. Disconnect the radiator and heater hoses drink any that Is left In an
will be lost, causing poor or no Idle at the water pump. uncovered container or in puddles
control. A special Scan Tool, should 5. Remove the water pump pulley bolts, long on the ground. This will prove fatal
be used to perform the Idle Learn bolt removed through access hole provided in in sufficient quantity. Always drain
procedure. Avoid disconnecting the the body side rail. Remove the pulley. the coolant into a sealable
battery on 3.1 L whenever possible. 6. Remove the water pump attaching bolts. container. Coolant should be
Remove the water pump. reused unless It Is contaminated or
2. Drain cooling system in to a drain pan.
To install: several years old.
3. Remove the serpentine belt.
7. Clean all gasket mating surfaces.
4. Remove the heater hose and radiator hose.
5. Remove the water pump cover attaching 8. Using a new gasket, install the water pump
bolts and remove the cover. to the engine.
2.5L Engine
6. Remove the water pump attaching bolts 9. Install the water pump pulley.
and remove the water pump. Notice that the 10. Connect the radiator and heater hoses to
the water pump.
water pump has a vacuum line attached that ** CAUTION
must be reattached when installing. 11. Install the serpentine drive belt.
To install: 12. Connect the negative battery cable. On fuel injected engines, relieve
13. Fill cooling system and check for leaks. the pressure in the fuel system
7. Position the water pump on the engine and
Start the engine and allow to come to normal before disconnecting any fuel line
install the attaching bolts. Torque bolts to 89 inch
operating temperature. Check for leaks and top- connections.
lbs. (10 Nm).
8. Install the water pump cover and attaching off the coolant.
bolts. 4.3L Diesel Engine
9. Install the heater hose and radiator hose. The engine should be not be
1. Drain radiator. Remove the negative warm, it is best to leave engine sit
10. Install the serpentine belt.
battery cable. overnight to cool before removing
11. Connect the negative battery cable.
2. Disconnect lower radiator hose at water the cylinder head.
12. Fill cooling system and check for leaks.
pump.
Start the engine and allow to come to normal 1. Drain the cooling system into a clean
3. Disconnect the heater return hose at the
operating temperature. Recheck for leaks. Top- container.
water pump, remove the bolt retaining the heater
up coolant. 2. Remove the air cleaner, the negative
water return pipe to the intake manifold and
position the pipe out-of-the-way. battery cable, the oil indicator tube, the ignition
3.3L Engine
coil, the engine-to-upper strut rod bolt and the
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 4. If equipped with AC, remove the vacuum
power steering pump bracket.
2. Drain cooling system. pump drive belt.
5. Remove the serpentine drive belt. 3. Remove the intake and exhaust manifolds
3. Remove the serpentine drive belt. as previously outlined.
4. Remove the coolant hose at the water 6. Remove the generator, air conditioning
compressor or vacuum pump brackets. 4. Remove the alternator bracket bolts.
pump.
7. Remove the water pump attaching bolts 5. Remove the air conditioning compressor
5. Remove the water pump pulley bolts. The bracket bolts and position the compressorto one
long bolt should be removed through the access and remove the water pump assembly.
8. Using tools J-29785 and J-29786, remove side. Do not disconnect any of the refrigerant
hole provided in the body side rail. Remove the lines.
pulley. the water pump pulley.
9. Clean gasket material from engine block. 6. Disconnect all vacuum and electrical
6. Remove the water pump attaching bolts connections from the cylinder head.
and remove the water pump. 10. Apply a thin coat of 1050026 sealer or
7. Disconnect the upper radiator hose.
To install: equivalent to the water pump housing to retain
the gasket, then position new gasket on the 8. Disconnect the spark plug wires and
7. Install the water pump attaching bolts and
housing. Also apply sealer to water pump remove the plugs.
install the water pump.
mounting bolts. Torque bolts to 12-15 ft. lbs. 9. Remove the rocker arm cover, rocker
8. Install the pulley. Install the water pump
arms, and pushrods.
pulley bolts. The long bolt should be installed
through the access hole provided in the body 10. Unbolt and remove the cylinder head.
side rail. Cylinder Head 11. Clean the gasket surfaces thoroughly.
9. Install the coolant hose at the water pump. 12. Install a new gasket over the dowels and
position the cylinder head.
10. Install the serpentine drive belt. * SEE FIGS. 41 to 46
11. Connect the negative battery cable. 13. Coat the head bolt threads with sealer
12. Fill cooling system and check for leaks. REMOVAL & INSTALLATION and install finger tight.
Start the engine and allow to come to normal 14. Tighten the bolts in sequence, in three
operating temperature. Recheck for leaks. Top- equal steps to the specified torque.
up coolant. 15. Install all parts in the reverse of removal.
CAUTION
3.8L Engine
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. When draining the coolant, keep in
mind that cats and dogs are
 ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL 3-57
5. Remove the intake manifold. arm and shaft assembly from cylinder head.
10 6 2 3 7 6. Remove the exhaust crossover. Lift out pushrods.
-e* 7. Loosen the rocker arm nuts and remove i-» If lifters are to be serviced,
the pushrods. Keep the pushrods in the order in remove them at this time and place
10 o o 0 9 )
which they were removed. them in a container with numbered
8. Remove the cylinder head bolts in stages holes or a similar device, to keep
a 5 i 4 and in the reverse order of the tightening them identified as to engine
sequence. position. If they are not to be
Fig. 41 Cylinder head bolt torque sequence -
9. Remove the cylinder head. Do not pry on removed, protect lifters and
2.5L (VIN R) engine the cylinder head to loosen it. camshaft from dirt by covering area
(* The words This Side Up on the with a clean cloth.
new cylinder head gasket should 10. Loosen all cylinder head bolts, then
face upwards. Coat the cylinder remove bolts and lift off the cylinder head.
0 0
0 0
0 0
0 0

head bolts with sealer and tighten 11. With cylinder head on bench, remove all
them to specifications In the spark plugs for cleaning and to avoid damaging
sequence shown. Make sure the them during work on the head.
lower ends of the pushrods seat In 12. Installation is the reverse of removal.
the lifter seats and adjust the Clean all gasket surfaces thoroughly. Always use
valves. a new head gasket. The head gasket is installed
Fig. 42 Cylinder head bolt torque sequence - with the bead downward. Coat the head bolt
2.8L (VIN X) engine 3.0L Engine threads with heavy-bodied thread sealer. Torque
1. Disconnect negative battery cable. the head bolts in three equal stages. Recheck
2. Remove intake manifold. head bolt torque after the engine has been
2.8L Engine 3. Loosen the remove belt(s). warmed to operating temperature.
4. When removing LEFT cylinder head;
LEFTSIDE 3.1 L Engine
a. Remove oil dipstick.
1. Raise and support the car.
b. Remove air and vacuum pumps with LEFTSIDE
2. Drain the coolant from the block and lower
mounting bracket if present, and move out of 1. Relieve the pressure in the fuel system
the car.
the way with hoses attached. before disconnecting any fuel line connections.
3. Remove the intake manifold.
5. When removing RIGHT cylinder head: Disconnect the fuel lines.
4. Remove the crossover.
a. Remove alternator. 2. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
5. Remove the alternator and AIR pump
b. Disconnect power steering gear pump Raise and safely support the vehicle.
brackets.
and brackets attached to cylinder head. 3. Drain the cylinder block and lower the
6. Remove the dipstick tube.
6. Disconnect wires from spark plugs, and vehicle.
7. Loosen the rocker arm bolts and remove
remove the spark plug wire clips from the 4. Remove the oil level indicator tube, rocker
the pushrods. Keep the pushrods in the same
rocker arm cover studs. arm cover, intake manifold and plenum, as
order as removed.
7. Remove exhaust manifold bolts from required.
8. Remove tlje cylinder head bolts in stages head being removed. 5. Remove the exhaust crossover, alternator
and in the reverse order of the tightening 8. With air hose and cloths, clean dirt off bracket, AIR pump and brackets.
sequence. cylinder head and adjacent area to avoid
9. Remove the cylinder head. Do not pry on 6. Disconnect and tag all electrical wiring and
getting dirt into engine. It is extremely vacuum hoses that may interfere with the
the head to loosen it. important to avoid getting dirt into the removal of the left cylinder head.
10. Installation is the reverse of removal. hydraulic valve lifters. 7. Loosen the rocker arm until the pushrods
f* The words This Side Up on the 9. Remove rocker arm cover and rocker
new cylinder head gasket should
face upward. Coat the cylinder
head bolts with sealer and torque
to specifications In the sequence
shown. Make sure the pushrods
seat In the lifter seats and adjust
the valves.
RIGHT SIDE
1. Raise the car and drain the coolant from
the block.
2. Disconnect the exhaust pipe and lower the
car.
3. If equipped, remove the cruise control
servo bracket.
4. Remove the air management valve and Fig. 43 Cylinder head bolt torque sequence - 3.0L and 3.8L engine
hose.
3-58 ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL
can be removed. Remove the pushrods. Keep 10. Position the new cylinder head gasket 15. Coat the cylinder head bolts with sealing
the pushrods in the same order as removed. over the dowel pins with the words “This Side compound and install into the head. Tighten the
8. Remove the cylinder head bolts. Remove Up” facing upwards. Carefully guide the cylinder cylinder head bolts according to the following
the cylinder head. Do not pry on the head to head into place. Install the pushrods and loosely procedure:
loosen it. retain with the rocker arms. a. Tighten in sequence to 35 ft. lbs. (47
To install: 11. Install the cylinder head bolts and tighten Nm).
9. Clean the cylinder head and block from in sequence to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm). Turn an b. Using an appropriate torque angle
any foreign matter, nicks or heavy scratches. additional 90° in sequence. gauge, rotate each bolt in sequence an
Clean the cylinder head bolt threads and threads 12. Install the pushrods. Make sure the lower additional 130°.
in the cylinder block. ends of the pushrods are in the lifter seats. Install c. Rotate the center 4 bolts an additional
10. Position the new cylinder head gasket the rocker arm nuts and torque the nuts to 14-20 30° in sequence.
over the dowel pins with the words “This Side ft. lbs. (20-27 Nm). 16. Install the pushrods, guide plate and
Up” facing upwards. Carefully guide the cylinder 13. Install the intake manifold. rocker arm assembly. Tighten the rocker arm
head into place. 14. Install the rocker cover. pivot bolts to 28 ft. lbs. (38 Nm).
11. Install the cylinder head bolts and tighten 15. Connect all electrical wiring and vacuum 17. Install the intake manifold and exhaust
in sequence to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm). Turn an hoses. manifold.
additional 90° in sequence. 16. If removed, install the crossover exhaust 18. Install the valve cover.
12. Install the pushrods. Make sure the lower pipe and heat shield. 19. Remove the ignition module and coils
ends of the pushrods are in the lifter seats. Install 17. If equipped, install the cruise control as a unit, as required.
the rocker arm nuts and torque the nuts to 14-20 servo bracket, the air management valve and 20. Connect all electrical wiring and
ft. lbs. (20-27 Nm). hose. vacuum hoses.
13. Install the intake manifold. 18. Connect the negative battery cable. 21. If equipped with air conditioning, install
14. Connect all electrical wiring and vacuum 19. Fill cooling system and check for leaks. the air conditioning compressor.
hoses. Start the engine and allow to come to normal 22. Install the alternator and power
15. Install the exhaust crossover, alternator operating temperature. Recheck for leaks. Top- steering pump. Remove the belt tensioner
and AIR pump brackets, alternator and AIR up coolant. assembly.
pump. 20. Adjust the valve lash, as required. 23. Connect the negative battery cable.
16. If removed, install the oil level indicator 24. Fill cooling system and check for
3.3L Engine
tube, rocker arm cover, intake manifold and leaks. Start the engine and allow to come to
plenum. 1. Relieve the pressure in the fuel system normal operating temperature. Recheck for
17. Connect the fuel lines. before disconnecting any fuel line connections. leaks. Top-up coolant.
18. Connect the negative battery cable. 2. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
19. Adjust the valve lash, as required. Raise the vehicle and support it safely. 3.8L Engine
3. Drain the cylinder block and lower the 1. Relieve the pressure in the fuel system
RIGHT SIDE
vehicle. before disconnecting any fuel line connections.
1. Relieve the pressure in the fuel system 4. Remove the intake manifold and exhaust 2. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
before disconnecting any fuel line connections.
manifold. Raise the vehicle and support it safely.
2. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
5. Remove the valve cover. 3. Drain the cylinder block and lower the
Raise the vehicle and support it safely.
6. Remove the ignition module and coils as a vehicle.
3. Drain the cylinder block and lower the
unit. 4. Remove the serpentine belt.
vehicle.
7. Disconnect and tag all electrical wiring and 5. Remove the alternator, AIR pump, oil
4. If equipped, remove the cruise control
vacuum hoses, as necessary. indicator and power steering pump, as required.
servo bracket, the air management valve and
8. If equipped with air conditioning, remove Position to the side.
hose and the intake manifold.
the air conditioning compressor and position to 6. Remove the throttle cable. Remove the
5. Remove the exhaust pipe at crossover,
the side. cruise control cable, if equipped.
crossover and heat shield, as required. 9. Remove the alternator and power steering
6. Disconnect and tag all electrical wiring and 7. Disconnect the fuel lines and fuel rail, as
pump and position to the side. Remove the belt required.
vacuum hoses that may interfere with the tensioner assembly.
removal of the right cylinder head. 8. Remove the heater hoses and radiator
10. Remove the rocker arm assembly, guide
7. Remove the rocker cover. Loosen the hoses.
plate and pushrods.
rocker arm nuts and remove the pushrods. Keep 9. Disconnect and tag all vacuum and
11. Remove the cylinder head bolts and
the pushrods in the order in which they were electrical wiring.
remove the cylinder head.
removed. 10. Remove the radiator and cooling fan, if
To install:
8. Remove the cylinder head bolts. Remove necessary.
12. Clean the cylinder head and block of any
the cylinder head. Do not pry on the head to 11. Remove the intake manifold and valve
foreign matter, nicks or heavy scratches. Clean
loosen it. cover.
the cylinder head bolt threads and threads in the
To Install: 12. Remove the exhaust manifold(s).
cylinder block.
9. Clean the cylinder head and block from 13. Remove the rocker arm assembly and
13. Position the new cylinder head gasket on
any foreign matter, nicks or heavy scratches. pushrods.
the block.
Clean the cylinder head bolt threads and threads 14. Remove the.cylinder head bolts and
14. Carefully guide the cylinder head into
in the cylinder block. remove the cylinder head.
place.
 ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL 3-59
arms and pushrods. Scribe pivots and keep
rocker arms separated so they can be installed in
their original locations.
6. Disconnect the exhaust crossover pipe
from the exhaust manifold on the side being
worked on and loosen it on the other.
7. Remove engine block drain plug, from side
of the block where head is being removed.
8. Remove the pipe plugs covering the upper
Fig. 44 Cylinder head bolt torque sequence - 4.3L engine
cylinder head bolts.
9. Remove all the cylinder head bolts and
To install: 2. Remove valve cover. Loosen or remove remove the cylinder head.
15. Clean the cylinder head and block from any accessory brackets or pipe clamps which 10. If necessary to remove the prechamber,
any foreign matter, nicks or heavy scratches. interfere. remove the glow plug and injection nozzle, then
Clean the cylinder head bolt threads and threads If removing the left cylinder head, tap out with a small blunt Vs in. (3mm) drift. Do
in the cylinder block. remove the oil level indicator guide. NOT use a tapered drift.
16. Position the new cylinder head gasket on 11. Installation is the reverse of removal. Do
the block. 3. Disconnect glow plug wiring (and block not use sealer on the head gasket. If a
17. Carefully guide the cylinder head into heater lead if so equipped on rear bank). prechamber was replaced, measure the
place. Coat the cylinder head bolts with sealing 4. Remove the ground strap from the rear chamber height and grind the new one to within
compound and install. cylinder head. Remove the fuel lines at the 0.001 in. (0.025mm) of the old chamber’s
18. Tighten the cylinder head bolts according injector nozzles. height, using #80 grit wet sandpaper to polish it.
to the following procedure: 5. Remove rocker arm nuts, pivots, rocker Coat the head bolts with sealer, preventing
a. Tighten the cylinder head bolts in coolant leakage.
sequence to 25 ft. lbs. (34 Nm).
b. Do not exceed 60 ft. lbs. (81 Nm) at
any point during the next 2 steps. 6 _J^Y~\
3 7

c. Using a torque angle gauge, tighten

o €>1(5)1
each bolt an additional 90° in sequence. 0 o~q
d. Tighten each bolt an additional 90° in GT e J2 @
sequence.
19. Install the exhaust manifold. (0)c?(§)(©
20. Install the intake manifold, pushrods
and rocker arm assembly.
21. Install the valve cover.
22. Install the radiator and cooling fan, as
required.
23. Connect all vacuum and electrical
0 0
wiring. Fig. 45 Cylinder head bolt torque sequence - 3.3L engine
24. Install the heater hoses and radiator
hoses.
25. Connect the fuel lines and fuel rail. HEAD TORQUE SEQUENCE
26. Install the throttle cable. Install the
cruise control cable, if equipped.
27. Install the alternator, AIR pump, oil
indicator and power steering pump.
28. Install the serpentine belt.
29. Connect the negative battery cable.
30. Fill cooling system and check for
leaks. Start the engine and allow to come to
normal operating temperature. Check for leaks Coat thread with
sealer before install¬
and top off the coolant. ing. Using a 12"
clicker torque wrench
4.3L Diesel Engine torque to 45 N m
(33 Lbs Ft ). Rotate
This procedure requires the wrench an
complete disassembly of the valve additional 90°
(1 4 turn).
lifters as explained under Diesel
Engine Valve Lifter Bleed-Down.
1. Remove intake manifold. Fig. 46 Cylinder head bolt torque sequence - 2.8L (VIN W) and 3.1 L (VIN T) engines
3-60 ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL
12. Torque the cylinder head bolts, except replaced. When milling the
No. 5, 6,11,12,13 and 14, to 100 ft. lbs. (135 cylinder heads of V-type engines,
Nm.); No. 5,6,11,12,13 and 14 bolts to 41 ft. the Intake manifold mounting
lbs. (55 Nm.). Retorque the cylinder head bolts, position is latered, and must be
except No. 5,6,11,12,13 and 14, to 142 ft. lbs. corrected by milling the manifold
(193 Nm.); No. 5, 6,11,12,13 and 14 bolts to flange a proportionate amount.
59 ft. lbs. (80 Nm.).

CLEANING AND INSPECTION

Valves and Springs

Chip carbon away from the valve heads,

combustion chambers, and ports, using a chisel ADJUSTMENT
made of hardwood. Remove the remaining
deposits with a stiff wire brush.
r+This procedure must be
performed with the engine COLD.
RESURFACING
^WARNING 1. Remove the valve cover and the No. 1
spark plug.
DO NOT use a steel wire brush to
All machine work should be 2. Rotate the engine until the O mark on the
clean an aluminum cylinder head.
performed by a competent, crankshaft pulley aligns with the timing tab and
Special brushes are sold Just for
professional machine shop. the No. 1 cylinder is on the TDC of the
use on aluminum. Always wear eye
compression stroke.
protection when grinding chipping Place a straightedge across the gasket
3. With the engine in this position, adjust the
or wire brushing. surface of the cylinder head. Using feeler
exhaust valves of No. 1,2 and 3 and the intake
gauges, determine the clearance at the center of
valves of N. 1,5 and 6. Back out the adjusting
the straightedge. If warpage exceeds 0.003 in.
nut until lash is felt at the push rod, then turn the
Be sure that the deposits are actually (0.076mm) in a 6 in. (152mm) span, or 0.006
nut to remove the lash. With the lash removed,
removed, rather than burnished. Have cylinder in. (0.152mm) over the total length, the cylinder
turn the nut an additional IV2 turns.
head hot-tanked to remove grease, corrosion, head must be resurfaced.
and scale from the water passages. Clean the 4. Rotate the engine 1 complete revolution
^ If warpage exceeds the until the 0 mark on the crankshaft pulley aligns
remaining cylinder head parts in an engine manufacturer’s maximum
cleaning solvent. Do not remove the protective with the timing tab and the No. 4 piston is on the
tolerance for material removal, the TDC of the compression stroke.
coating from the springs. cylinder head must be 5. With the engine in this position, adjust the
exhaust valves of No. 2,3 and 4; adjust the
valves the same way as in Step No. 3.
6. Install the valve covers and the spark
plugs.

REMOVAL & INSPECTION

1. Remove the cylinder head(s) from the

vehicle as previously outlined.
2. Using a suitable valve spring compressor,
compress the valve spring and remove the valve
keys using a magnetic retrieval tool.
3. Slowly release the compressor and
remove the valve spring caps (or rotators) and
the valve springs.
4. Fabricate a valve arrangement board to
use when you remove the valves, which will
indicate the port in which each valve was
originally installed (and which cylinder head on
V6 models). Also note that the valve keys,
rotators, caps, etc. should be arranged in a
manner which will allow you to reinstall them on
the valve on which they were originally used.
 ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL 3-61
5. Remove and discard the valve seals. On cylinder head off the engine compress the valve
models using the umbrella type seals, note the spring using tool J26513 or equivalent, remove
location of the large and small seals for the keeper, spring and seal. All parts must be
assembly purposes. return to their original locations.
6. Thoroughly clean the valves on the wire If the cylinder head is on the vehicle, 60 psi or
wheel of a bench grinder, then clean the cylinder more of compressed air must be used. The
head mating surface with a) a soft wire wheel, b) procedure will require bringing the piston of the
a soft wire brush, or c) a wooden scraper. Avoid cylinder to be service up to top dead center on
using a metallic scraper, since this can cause compression stoke. Then apply compressed air
damage to the cylinder head mating surface, through the spark plug hole using a compressor
especially on models with aluminum heads. gauge fitting. The valve spring and seal can now
7. Using a valve guide cleaner chucked into a be remove.
drill, clean all of the valve guides. If the air pressure is too low or
8. Reinstall each valve into its respective port drops during this procedure the
(guide) of the cylinder head. valve will fall into the engine,
9. Mount a dial indicator so that the stem is at requiring complete disassembly of
90° to the valve stem, as close to the valve guide the cylinder head assembly. Also If
as possible. the valve is pressed downward at
10. Move the valve off its seat, and measure LAPPING all pressure will be lost and the
the valve guide-to-stem clearance by rocking the valve will fall in.
stem back and forth to actuate the dial indicator.
This procedure should be performed after the
11. Measure the valve stems using a- valves and seats have been machined, to insure
micrometer, and compare to specifications, to that each valve mates to each seat precisely. Valve Spring Testing
determine whether stem or guide wear is 1. Invert the cylinder head, lightly lubricate
responsible for excessive clearance. the valve stems, and install the valves in the head Place the spring on a flat surface next to a
Consult the Specifications tables as numbered. square. Measure the height of the spring and
earlier in this Section. 2. Coat valve seats with fine grinding rotate it against the edge of the square to
compound, and attach the lapping tool suction measure distortion. If spring height varies (by
cup to a valve head. comparison) by more than V16 in. (1.6mm) or if
REFACING distortion exceeds V16 in. (1.6mm), replace the
Moisten the suction cup. spring. In addition to evaluating the spring as
3. Rotate the tool between the palms, above, test the spring pressure at the installed
Using a valve grinder, resurface the valves changing position and lifting the tool often to and compressed (installed height minus valve
according to specifications in this Section. All prevent grooving. lift) height using a valve spring tester. Spring
machine work should be performed by a 4. Lap the valve until a smooth, polished seat pressure should be ± 1 lb. (0.45kg) of all other
competent, professional machine shop. is evident. springs in either position.
Valve face angle Is not always 5. Remove the valve and tool, and rinse away
identical to Valve seat angle. all traces of grinding compound.

A minimum margin of V32 in. (0.8mm) should

Valve Seat Service
remain after grinding the valve. The valve stem VALVE SEALS The valve seats are integral with the cylinder
top should also be squared and resurfaced, by head on all engines except the V6 diesel with
placing the stem in the V-block of the grinder, aluminum cylinder heads. On all engines except
and turning it while pressing lightly against the The valve seals can be replaced with the
grinding wheel. Be sure to chamfer the edge of cylinder head on or off the engine. But great care
the tip so that the squared edges don’t dig into and skill must be used to perform this procedure
the rocker arm. with the cylinder head on the engine. With the

Fig. 51 Check the valve spring free length and

squareness. Replace if not square or same
length as other springs
 3-62 ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL
Another method of repairing the guides is to
ream the bores and install oversize valves.
Either of the above services must be
performed by a professional machine shop
which has the specialized knowledge and
tools necessary to perform the service.

Valve and Spring

Installation

Be sure that all traces of lapping

compound have been cleaned off
before the valves are Installed.
1. Lubricate all of the valve stems with a light
coating of engine oil, then install the valves into
the proper ports/guides.
2. If umbrella-type valve seals are used,
install them at this time. Be sure to use a seal
protector to prevent damage to the seals as they
are pushed over the valve keeper grooves.
If O-ring seals are used, don’t
install them yet.
Fig. 53 Depressing valve springs 3. Install the valve springs and the spring
retainers (or rotators), and using the valve
compressing tool, compress the springs.
4. If umbrella-type seals are used, just install
Valve Guide Service the valve keepers (white grease may be used to
The valve guides used in these engines are hold them in place) and release the pressure on
integral with the cylinder head, that is, they the compressing tool. If 0-ring type seals are
cannot be replaced. used, carefully work the seals into the second
groove of the valve (closest to the head), install
Refer to the previous Valves the valve keepers and release the pressure on
Removal and Installation to check the tool.
the valve guides for wear.
If the O-rlng seals are Installed
Valve guides are most accurately repaired BEFORE the springs and retainers
using the bronze wall rebuilding method. In this are compressed, the seal will be
operation, threads are cut into the bores of the destroyed.
valve guide and bronze wire is turned into the
threads. The bronze wall is then reamed to the 5. After all of the valves are installed and
proper diameter. This method is well received for retained, tap each valve spring retainer with a
a number of reasons: rubber mallet to seat the keepers in the retainer.
that particular diesel, the seats are machined into
a. It is relatively inexpensive
the cylinder head casting itself. On the aluminum
b. It offers better valve lubrication (the
head diesel, the valve seats are separate inserts, Valve Lifters
wire forms channels which retain oil)
which may be replaced by a competent machine
c. It offers less valve friction
shop if required. The reason for using inserts on
this engine is basically because the aluminum' d. It preserves the original valve guide-to-
could not withstand the constant pounding of the seat relationship.
Another popular method of repairing valve
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
valves opening and closing as well as the
hardened steel insert which is used. guides is to have the guides knurled. The
Machining of the valve seats, or replacement knurling entails cutting action raises metal off
of the guide bore which actually narrows the 2.5L Engine
of the seats in the case of the diesel, should be
referred to a professional machine shop. inner diameter of the bore, thereby reducing 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
the clearance between the valve guide bore 2. Remove the intake manifold and valve
and the valve stem. This method offers the cover.
same advantages as the bronze wall method, 3. Loosen the rocker arms and rotate to clear
but will generally wear faster. the pushrods.
 ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL 3-63
2.5L Engine
1. Raise and support the car. Drain the oil.
2. Remove the engine cradle-to-front engine
mounts.
3. Disconnect the exhaust pipe at both the
exhaust manifold and at the front of the
converter.
4. Disconnect and remove the starter.
Remove the flywheel housing or torque
converter cover.
5. Remove the alternator upper bracket.
Remove the splash shield.
6. Install an engine lifting chain and raise the
engine. If equipped, remove the power steering
pump and bracket and move it aside.
7. Remove the lower alternator biacket.
Be sure to keep all valve train Remove the engine support bracket
parts in order so they may be 8. Remove the oil pan retaining bolts and
reinstalled in their original remove the pan.
locations and with the same mating 9. Reverse the procedure to install. Clean ail
surfaces as when removed. gasket surfaces thoroughly. Install the rear oil
6. Remove the pushrods and valve lifters pan gasket into the rear main bearing cap, then
using tool J-3049 or equivalent. apply a thin bead of silicone sealer to the pan
To install: gasket depressions. Install the front pan gasket
7. Lubricate the bearing surfaces with into the timing cover. Install the side gaskets
Molykote® or equivalent. onto the pan, not the block. They can be retained
8. Install the lifters in their original locations. in place with grease. Apply a thin bead of
9. With the lifter on the base circle of the silicone seal to the mating joints of the gaskets.
camshaft, tighten the rocker arm bolts to 14-20 Install the oil pan; install the timing gear bolts
ft. lbs. (20-27 Nm). last, after the other bolts have been snugged
10. Connect the negative battery cable. down.
11. Adjust the valves, as required.
2.8L Engine
1. Disconnect the battery ground.
4. Remove the pushrods, retainer and guide. Oil Pan
5. Remove the lifters. Keep all components
separated so they may be reinstalled in the same t SEE FIGS. 55 to 57
location.
To Install:
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
6. Lubricate the lifters with engine oil and
install the lifters in their bore.
7. Install the guides, retainers and pushrods.
8. With the lifter on the base circle of the ** CAUTION
camshaft, tighten the rocker arm bolts to 24 ft.
The EPA warns that prolonged
lbs. (32 Nm).
contact with used engine oil may
9. Install the intake manifold and valve cover.
cause a number of skin disorders,
10. Connect battery negative cable.
Including cancerl You should make
Except 2.5L Engine every effort to minimize your
exposure to used engine oil.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Protective gloves should be worn
2. Drain the cooling system.
when changing the oil. Wash your
3. Remove the valve cover and the intake
hands and any other exposed skin
manifold.
areas as soon as possible after
4. If the engine is equipped with individual
exposure to used engine oil. Soap
rocker arms, loosen the rocker arm adjusting nut
and water, or waterless hand
and rotate the arm so as to clear the pushrod.
cleaner should be used.
5. If the engine is equipped with a rocker
shaft assembly, remove the rocker shaft Fig. 55 Oil pan assembly - 2.8L (VIN X)
retaining bolts/nuts and remove the shaft
engine shown
assembly.
3-64 ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL
To install:
The oil pan on some vehicles may
not require a gasket. If a gasket Is
BEARING CAP STUD not required, the oil pan Is Installed
using RTV gasket material. Make
sure the sealing surfaces are free
of old RTV material. Use a Va Inch
(3mm) bead of RTV material on the
pan sealing flange. Torque the pan
bolts to 8-1 Oft. lbs.
OIL PUMP
PICK-UP ASSEMBLY 15. Install the oil pan using a new gasket or
RTV gasket material.
16. Raise the front frame and install the the
front frame bolts.
REINFORCEMENT 17. Tighten the rear frame bolts.
18. Remove the jackstand from the front
center crossmember.
19. Install the starter and bellhousing cover.
j 20. If removed, install the front engine horse
collar bracket from the block.
10 Nm 21. Install the transaxle mount retaining nuts
(7 FT. LBS.) and engine to frame mount retaining nuts.
22. If removed, install the steering gear pinch
OIL PAN AND bolt.
GASKET ASM. 23. Install the splash shield. Install the right
10 Nm tire and wheel assembly.
SHIELD
5N m (7 LB. FT.) 24. Lower the vehicle.
ASM.
(4 FT. LBS.) 25. Install the tensioner, serpentine belt and
cover.
Fig. 56 Oil pan assembly - 2.5L (VIN R) engine shown 26. Fill the crankcase with oil.
27. Connect the negative battery cable.
2. Raise and support the car on jackstands. 3.1 L Engine 3.3L Engine
3. Drain the oil. 1. Disconnect the battery ground.
4. Remove the bellhousing cover. 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove the serpentine belt cover, belt and 2. Raise and support the vehicle safely.
5. Remove the starter. tensioner.
6. Support the engine. 3. Support the engine with tool J-28467-A
7. Unbolt the engine from its mounts. or equivalent, using an extra support leg.
8. Remove the oil pan bolts. 4. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
9. Raise the engine with a jack, just enough to 5. Drain the oil.
remove the oil pan. 6. Remove the right tire and wheel assembly.
10. Installation is the reverse of removal. The Remove the splash shield.
pan is installed using RTV gasket material in 7. Remove the steering gear pinch bolt, as
place of a gasket. Make sure that the sealing required.
surfaces are free of old RTV material. Use a Vs 8. Remove the transaxle mount retaining nuts
in. (3mm) bead of RTV material on the pan and engine-to-frame mount retaining nuts, as
sealing flange. Torque the pan bolts to 8-10 ft. required.
lbs. 9. Remove the front engine horse collar
bracket from the block, as required.
3.0L Engine
10. Remove the bellhousing cover and
1. Disconnect the battery ground. remove the starter.
2. Raise and support the car on jackstands. 11. Position a jackstand under the frame front
3. Drain the oil. center crossmember.
4. Remove the bellhousing cover. 12. Loosen but do not remove the rear frame
5. Unbolt and remove the oil pan. bolts.
6. Installation is the reverse of removal. 13. Remove the front frame bolts and lower
RTV gasket material is used in place of a the front frame.
gasket. Make sure that the sealing surfaces are 14. Remove the oil pan retaining bolts and
free of all old RTV material. Use a Vs in. (3mm) remove the oil pan.
bead of RTV material on the oil pan sealing
flange. Torque the pan bolts to 10 ft. lbs.
 ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL 3-65
3. Drain the engine oil. 6. Using a V2 in. (13mm) drill bit, drill 2.5L ENGINE
4. Remove the transaxle converter cover and through the spot weld located between the rear
starter motor. 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
holes at the left front stabilizer bar mounting.
5. Remove the oil filter, oil pan retaining bolts 2. Raise and support the vehicle safely.
7. Remove the nuts securing the engine and
and oil pan assembly. 3. Drain the engine oil and remove the oil pan.
transaxle to its cradle.
To install: 4. Remove the 2 flange mounting bolts and
8. Disconnect the left lower ball joint from the
nut from the main bearing cap bolt.
6. Clean the oil pan and cylinder block mating knuckle.
surfaces. 5. Remove the pump and screen as an
9. Place a wood block on a floor jack and
7. Install a new oil pan gasket to the oil pan assembly.
raise the transaxle under the pan until the mount
flange. To install:
studs clear the cradle.
8. Install the oil pan and torque the retaining 6. Remove the 4 cover attaching screws and
10. Remove the bolts securing the front
bolts 8-1 Oft. lbs. cover from the oil pump assembly.
crossmember to the right side of the cradle.
9. Lower the vehicle. 7. Pack the space around the oil pump gears
11. Remove the bolts from the left side front
10. Fill the crankcase with oil. body mounts. completely full of petroleum jelly. There must be
11. Connect the negative battery cable. no air space left inside the pump. If the pump is
12. Remove the left side and front
not packed, it may not begin to pump oil as soon
crossmember assemblies. It will be necessary to
3.8L Engine as the engine is started and engine damage may
lower the rear crossmember below the left side
1. Disconnect the battery ground cable. result.
of the body through the careful use of a large pry
2. Raise and safely support the vehicle. bar. 8. Align the oil pump shaft to match with the
3. Drain the oil. oil pump drive shaft tang, then install the oil
13. Remove the bellhousing cover.
4. Remove the bellhousing cover. pump to the block positioning the flange over the
14. Remove the starter.
5. Unbolt and remove the oil pan. oil pump driveshaft lower bushing. Do not use
15. Remove the engine from mount bracket.
To install: any gasket. Torque the bolts to 20 ft. lbs. (30
16. Unbolt and remove the oil pan.
6. RTV gasket material is used in place of a Nm).
17. Installation is the reverse of removal.
gasket. Make sure the sealing surfaces are free 9. Install the oil pan using a new gasket and
Apply sealer to both sides of the oil pan gasket
of all old RTV material. Use a Vs inch (3mm) seals.
and make sure that the tabs on the gaskets are
bead of RTV material on the oil pan sealing 10. Install the 2 flange mounting bolts and nut
installed in the seal notches. Apply RTV sealer to
flange. Torque the pan bolts to 10-14 ft. lbs. to the main bearing cap bolt.
the front cover oil pan seal retainer, and to each
7. Install the bellhousing cover. 11. Lower the vehicle.
seal where it contacts the block. Wipe the seal
8. Lower the vehicle. area of the pan with clean engine oil before 12. Fill the crankcase with oil.
9. Fill the crankcase with oil. installing the pan. Torque the pan bolts to 10 ft. 13. Connect the negative battery cable.
10. Connect the negative battery cable. lbs. and the steering clamp bolt to 40 ft. lbs. 2.8L Engine
4.3L Diesel Engine 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Raise and support the vehicle safely.
Oil Pump 3. Drain the engine oil and remove the oil pan.
CAUTION 4. Remove the pump-to-rear main bearing
| SEE FIGS. 58 and 59 cap bolt and remove the pump and extension
The following procedure will be
shaft.
personally hazardous unless the REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
procedures are followed exactly. To install:
5. Remove the 4 cover attaching screws and
cover from the oil pump assembly.
1. Install the engine support fixture tool J- 6. Pack the space around the oil pump gears
» CAUTION completely full of petroleum jelly. There must be
28467. Be certain to arrange washers on the
fixture so that the bolt securing the chain to the The EPA warns that prolonged no air space left inside the pump. If the pump is
cylinder head can be torqued to 20 ft. lbs. THIS contact with used engine oil may not packed, it may not begin to pump oil as soon
IS ABSOLUTELY NECESSARY! cause a number of skin disorders, as the engine is started and engine damage may
2. Raise the front and rear of the car and including cancerl You should make result.
support it on jackstands with the rear slightly every effort to minimize your 7. Assemble the pump and extension shaft
lower than the front. The front jackstands should exposure to used engine oil. with retainer to rear main bearing cap, aligning
be located at the front lift points shown in your Protective gloves should be worn the top end of the extension shaft with the lower
owner’s manual. when changing the oil. Wash your end of the drive gear.
3. Turn the intermediate steering shaft so that hands and any other exposed skin 8. Install the pump-to-the rear bearing cap
the steering gear stub shaft clamp bolt is in the areas as soon as possible after bolt. Tighten to 30 ft. lbs. (40 Nm).
UP position. Remove the clamp bolt and exposure to used engine oil. Soap 9. Install the oil pan.
disconnect the two shafts. Drain the oil. and water, or waterless hand 10. Lower the vehicle.
4. Remove the left side steering gear cradle cleaner should be used. 11. Fill the crankcase with oil.
bolt and loosen the right side cradle bolt. 12. Connect the negative battery cable.
5. Remove the front stabilizer bar.
3-66 ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL
3.0L Engines
1. Remove the oil filter.
2. Unbolt the oil pump cover from the timing
chain cover.
3. Slide out the oil pump gears. Clean all
parts thoroughly in solvent and check for wear.
Remove the oil pressure relief valve cap, spring
and valve.
4. Installation is the reverse of removal.
Torque the pressure relief valve cap to 35 ft. lbs.
Install the pump gears and check their
clearances:
• End clearance: 0.002-0.006 in. (0.05—
0.15mm)
• Side clearance: 0.002-0.005 in. (0.05—
0.13mm)
Place a straightedge across the face of the
pump cover and check that it is flat to within
0.001 in. (0.025mm). Pack the oil pump cavity
with petroleum jelly so that there is no air space. with retainer to rear main bearing cap, aligning
Install the cover and torque the bolts to 10 ft. lbs. the top end of the extension shaft with the lower Crankshaft Damper
end of the drive gear.
3.1 Engine
8. Install the pump-to-the rear bearing cap
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. bolt. Tighten to 30 ft. lbs. (40 Nm).
2. Raise and support the vehicle safely. 9. Install the oil pan. REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
3. Drain the engine oil and remove the oil pan. 10. Lower the vehicle.
4. Remove the pump-to-rear main bearing 11. Rll the crankcase with oil.
cap bolt and remove the pump and extension 12. Connect the negative battery cable. 2.5L, 3.3L and 3>8L Engine
shaft. 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable, and
To install: 3.3L And 3.8L Engines
remove the serpentine belt.
5. Remove the 4 cover attaching screws and 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
cover from the oil pump assembly. 2. Drain the engine oil. 3. Remove the flywheel or torque converter
6. Pack the space around the oil pump gears 3. Remove the oil filter adapter, pressure cover.
completely full of petroleum jelly. There must be regulator valve and spring. 4. Right front tire and wheel assembly.
no air space left inside the pump. If the pump is 4. Remove the oil pump cover attaching 5. Remove the right front engine splash
not packed, it may not begin to pump oil as soon screws and cover. shield.
as the engine is started and engine damage may 5. Remove the gears. 6. Use a suitable tool on the flywheel to keep
result. To install: engine from rotating and remove the bolt and
7. Assemble the pump and extension shaft 6. Lubricate the gears with petroleum jelly. washer from the damper.
7. Assemble the gears in the housing. 7. Remove the balancer and the key.
8. Pack the gear cavity with petroleum jelly. To Install:
9. Install the oil pump cover and screws. 8. Install the key and balancer.
Tighten to 97 inch lbs. (11 Nm).
9. Install the bolt and washer, torque the bolt
10. Install the pressure regulator and spring to 162 ft. lbs. (220 Nm).
valve.
10. Install the engine splash shield.
11. Install the oil filter adapter with a new 11. Install the tire and wheel assembly.
gasket. Tighten the oil filter adapter bolts to 24 ft.
12. Install the flywheel or torque converter
lbs. (33 Nm). cover.
12. Install the front cover on the engine.
13. Lower the vehicle.
13. Fill the crankcase with oil.
14. Install the serpentine belt.
14. Connect the negative battery cable.
15. Connect the negative battery cable.
4.3L Diesel Engine 2.8L Engine
1. Remove the oil pan.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable, and
2. Unbolt and remove the oil pump and drive
remove the serpentine belt.
extension.
2. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
3. Installation is the reverse of removal.
3. Remove the flywheel or torque converter
Torque the pump bolts to 18 ft. lbs.
Fig. 58 Oil pump assembly - 2.8L (VIN W) cover.
and 3.1 (VIN T) engines shown 4. Right front tire and wheel assembly.
 ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL 3-67
5. Remove the right front engine splash oil. Wash your hands and any other
shield. Timing Gear Cover exposed skin areas as soon as
6. Remove the AIR pump, if equipped. possible after exposure to used
7. Use a suitable tool on the flywheel to keep t SEE FIGS. 60 to 64 engine oil. Soap and water, or
engine from rotating and remove the bolt and waterless hand cleaner should be
washer from the damper. REMOVAL & INSTALLATION used.
8. With tool J29113, or equivalent, installed
on the damper, turn the puller screw.
2.5L Engine
^ The Inertia weight section off the
damper Is assembled to the hub CAUTION 1. Relieve the pressure in the fuel system
with a rubber sleeve. A proper before disconnecting any fuel line connections.
When draining the coolant, keep in
puller must be used to avoid 2. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
mind that cats and dogs are
damaging the damper assembly. 3. Remove the inner fender splash shield.
attracted by the ethylene glycol
Remove the crankshaft pulley.
9. Remove the damper. antifreeze, and are quite likely to
drink any that is left in an 4. Remove the alternator lower bracket and
To Install:
the front engine mounts.
10. Coat the cover seal with clean engine oil uncovered container or in puddles
on the ground. This will prove fatal 5. Using a floor jack, raise the engine.
before installing the damper using tool J 29113
in sufficient quantity. Always drain 6. Remove the engine mount mounting
or equivalent.
the coolant Into a sealable bracket-to-cylinder block bolts. Remove the
11. Apply sealant to the key and keyway.
container. Coolant should be bracket and mount as an assembly.
12. Place the damper into position and pull
reused unless It Is contaminated or 7. Remove the oil pan-to-front cover screws
into place with tool.
several years old. The EPA and front cover-to-block screws.
13. Install the retaining bolt and torque to 110
warns that prolonged contact with 8. Pull the cover slightly forward, just enough
ft. lbs. (80 Nm).
used engine oil may cause a to allow cutting of the oil pan front seal flush with
14. install the AIR pump, inner splash shield the block on both sides.
and lower the vehicle. number of skin disorders, Including
cancer! You should make every 9. Remove the front cover and attached
15. Install the serpentine drive belt. portion of the pan seal.
16. Install the negative battery cable. effort to minimize your exposure to
used engine oil. Protective gloves 10. Clean the gasket surfaces thoroughly.
3.1 L Engine should be worn when changing the To install:
11. Cut the tabs from the new oil pan front
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable, and
seal.
remove the serpentine belt.
2. Raise and safely support the vehicle. 12. Install the seal on the front cover pressing
the tips into the holes provided.
3. Remove the flywheel or torque converter
cover. 13. Coat the new gasket with sealer and
4. Right front tire and wheel assembly. position it on the front cover.
5. Remove the right front engine splash 14. Apply a Vs in. (3mm) bead of silicone
shield. sealer to the joint formed at the oil pan and stock.
6. Use a suitable tool on the flywheel to keep 15. Align the front cover seal with a centering
engine from rotating and remove the bolt and tool and install the front cover. Tighten the
washer from the damper. screws. Install the pulley and connect the battery
7. Remove the balancer and the key. With negative cable.
tool J 24420—B and turn puller screw to remove
the balancer.
To install:
8. Install the key and balancer.
9. Install the bolt and washer, torque the bolt
to 76 ft. lbs. (103 Nm).
10. Install the engine splash shield.
11. Install the tire and wheel assembly.
12. Install the flywheel or torque converter
cover.
13. Lower the vehicle.
14. Install the serpentine belt.
15. Connect the negative battery cable and
perform Idle Learn procedure.
3-68 ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL

2.8L and 3.1 L Engine

CAUTION
The engines use a harmonic
balancer. Breakage may occur as
the balancer Is hammered back
onto the crankshaft. A press or
special Installation tool is
necessary.

1. Relieve the pressure in the fuel system

before disconnecting any fuel line connections.
Fig. 62 Water pump and front cover assembly - 2.8L (VIN X) engine Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Drain the cooling system.
3. Remove the serpentine belt and tensioner.
4. Remove the alternator and power steering
pump. Locate and support these accessories to
the side, remove the AIR pump and hoses, as
needed.
5. Remove the A/C compressor without
disconnecting any air conditioning lines and lay
it aside. If equipped, remove the A.I.R. pump.
Raise and support the vehicle safely.
6. Remove the inner splash shield. Remove
the torsion damper using tool J—24420-B or
equivalent.
7. Remove the flywheel cover at the transaxle
and starter.
8. Remove the serpentine belt idler pulley.
The outer ring (weight) of the
harmonic balancer Is bonded to the
hub with rubber. The balancer must
be removed with a puller which
acts on the Inner hub only. Pulling
on the outer portion of the balancer
will break the rubber bond or
destroy the tuning of the torsional
damper.
 ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL 3-69

22. Lower the vehicle.

23. Install the bypass hose and overflow
hoses. Install the canister purge hose.
24. Connect the radiator hose to the water
pump. Connect the heater hose to fill pipe.
25. Install the alternator and power steering
pump.
26. Install the tensioner serpentine belt.
27. Connect the negative battery cable.
3.0L Engine
1. Drain the cooling system.
2. Disconnect the radiator hoses and the
heater hose at the water pump.
3. Remove the water pump pulley and all
drive belts. Remove the front engine mount-to-
cradle bolts and raise the engine.
4. Remove the alternator and brackets.
5. Remove the distributor. Remove the front
Fig. 64 Timing cover assembly, apply sealant where shown - 2.8L (VIN W) and 3.1 L (VIN T) and using a puller, remove the balancer.
engines 6. Remove the balancer bolt and washer, and
using a puller, remove the balancer.
7. Remove the cover-to-block bolts. Remove
9. Drain the engine oil. Remove the oil pan To install:
the two oil pan-to-cover bolts.
and lower front cover bolts. 15. Clean the mating surfaces of the front
8. Remove the cover and gasket.
10. Lower the vehicle. cover and cylinder block.
9. Installation is the reverse of removal.
11. Remove the radiator hose at the water 16. Install a new gasket. Make sure not to
Always use a new gasket coated with sealer.
pump. Remove the heater hose at fill pipe. damage the sealing surfaces. Apply sealer
Remove the oil pump cover and pack the area
12. Remove the bypass hose and overflow 1052080 or equivalent, to the sealing surface of
around the gears with petroleum jelly so that no
hoses. Remove the canister purge hose. the front cover.
air space is left within the pump. Apply sealer to
13. Remove the upper front cover retaining 17. Position the front cover on the engine the cover bolt threads.
bolts and remove the front cover. block and install the upper cover bolt.
14. After removing the timing cover, pry oil 18. Raise and safely support the vehicle. 3.3L Engine
seal from front of cover. Lubricate the seal lip Install the oil pan and lower cover bolts. 1. Relieve the pressure in the fuel system
and install new lip seal with lip, open side of seal, 19. Install the serpentine belt idler pulley. before disconnecting any fuel line connections.
facing toward the cylinder block. Carefully drive 20. Install the flywheel cover to the transaxle. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
or press seal into place. Install the starter. 2. Drain the cooling system.
21. Install the torsion damper. Install the inner 3. Remove the serpentine belt.
splash shield.
 3-70 ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL
4. Remove the heater pipes. Remove the 10. After removing the timing cover, pry oil cover installation. Trim Vs in. (3mm) from the
coolant bypass hose and lower radiator hose seal from front of cover. Lubricate the seal lip ends of the new front pan seal. Apply RTV sealer
from cover. and install new lip seal with lip, open side of seal, to the oil pan seal retainer. After the cover gasket
5. Raise and support the vehicle safely. facing toward the cylinder block. Carefully drive is in place, apply sealer to the junction of the
6. Remove the inner splash shield. or press seal into place. pan, gasket and block. When installing the cover,
7. Remove the crankshaft balancer. To install: rotate it right and left while guiding the pan seal
8. Disconnect all electrical connectors at the 11. Clean the mating surfaces of the front into place with a small screwdriver.
camshaft sensor, crankshaft sensor and oil cover and cylinder block.
pressure sender. ^ Remove the oil pump cover and
9. Remove the oil pan-to-front cover pack the space around the oil pump Oil Seal
retaining bolts, front cover retaining bolts and gears completely with petroleum
remove the front cover. jelly. There must be no air space
10. After removing the timing cover, pry oil left inside the pump. If the pump Is
seal from front of cover. Lubricate the seal lip not packed, It may not begin to REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
and install new lip seal with lip, open side of seal, pump oil as soon as the engine Is
facing toward the cylinder block. Carefully drive started and engine damage may
or press seal into place. result. Cover Removed
To install:
11. Clean the mating surfaces of the front 12. Install a new gasket to the oil pan and EXCEPT 3.0L AND 3.8L ENGINES
cover and cylinder block. cylinder block. Install the front cover. Apply 1. After removing the timing cover, pry oil
12. Install a new gasket on the cylinder block. sealer to the threads of the cover retaining bolts seal out of front of cover.
Install the front cover. Apply sealer to the threads and secure the cover. 2. Install new lip seal with lip (open side of
of the cover retaining bolts and secure the cover. 13. Install the cover-to-block bolts. Install the seal) inside and drive or press seal carefully into
Tighten the bolts to 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm). 2 oil pan-to-cover bolts. place.
13. Install the oil pan-to-front cover bolts. 14. Install the balancer, washer and balancer
Tighten the bolts to 88 inch lbs. (10 Nm). bolt. 3.0L AND 3.8L ENGINES
14. Reconnect the camshaft sensor, 15. Install the alternator brackets and install 1. Using a drift punch, drive the oil seal and
the alternator.
crankshaft sensor and oil pressure sender the shedder from the front toward the rear of the
16. Install the water pump pulley and the timing cover.
electrical connectors. Adjust the crankshaft
serpentine belt. 2. To install the new oil seal, coil it around the
sensor using tool J-37087 or equivalent.
15. Install the crankshaft balancer. 17. Lower the engine into position and install opening with the ends toward the top. Using a
16. Install the inner splash shield. the 2 nuts to the front engine mount at the cradle. punch, drive in the oil seal and stake it at three
17. Lower the vehicle. 18. Connect the lower radiator hose and the places. Rotate a hammer handle inside the seal
heater hose to the water pump. until the crankshaft balancer can be inserted
18. Install the heater pipes. Install the coolant
bypass hose and lower radiator hose from 19. Connect the negative battery cable. through the opening.
cover. 20. Fill cooling system and check for leaks. 3. To complete the installation, reverse the
19. Install the serpentine belt. Start the engine and allow to come to normal removal procedures. Tighten the balancer bolt to
20. Connect the negative battery cable. operating temperature. Check for leaks and top proper torque.
21. Fill cooling system and check for leaks. off the coolant.
Start the engine and allow to come to normal Cover Installed
4.3L Diesel Engine
operating temperature. Recheck for leaks. Top- EXCEPT DIESEL ENGINE
1. Drain the cooling system.
up coolant. The oil seal may be removed from the timing
2. Disconnect the radiator hoses and the
3.8L Engine heater hoses at the water pump. Disconnect the cover without removing the cover. To do this,
heater outlet pipe at the manifold. remove the damper pulley and pry the oil seal
1. Relieve the pressure in the fuel system
3. Disconnect the power steering pump, from the timing cover, using a small pry bar.
before disconnecting any fuel line connections.
vacuum pump, belt tensioner, air conditioning Place a Seal Installation Tool J—34995 on the
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
compressor and alternator brackets. crankshaft (to prevent damaging the seal) when
2. Drain the cooling system.
installing the new oil seal or the front cover. To
3. Disconnect the lower radiator hose and the
install the new oil seal, place the seal’s open end
heater hose from the water pump.
** CAUTION toward the inside of the cover and drive it into the
4. Remove the 2 nuts from the front engine
cover. Tighten the damper pulley bolt to proper
mount from the cradle and raise the engine using Do not disconnect any refrigerant
torque.
a suitable lifting device. lines.
5. Remove the water pump pulley and the 4.3L DIESEL ENGINE
serpentine belt. 1. Refer to the Timing Cover, Removal and
6. Remove the alternator and brackets. 4. Remove the crankshaft balancer using a Installation procedures in the section and
7. Remove the balancer bolt and washer. puller. remove the crankshaft balancer from the
Using a puller, remove the balancer. 5. Unbolt and remove the front cover and crankshaft.
8. Remove the cover-to-block bolts. Remove gasket. 2. Using tools J-1859-03 and J-23129,
the 2 oil pan-to-cover bolts. 6. Installation is the reverse of removal. Grind press the oil seal from the timing cover.
9. Remove the cover and gasket. a chamfer on the end of each dowel pin to aid in
 ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL 3-71
3. Lubricate the seal lip with engine oil and GEAR DRIVEN 11. Measure the backlash at position outside
the outer edge with sealant No. 1050026. Using 1. Relieve the pressure in the fuel system the 2 retainer plate access holes and at 2 other
tool J—29659, press the new oil seal into the before disconnecting any fuel line connections. areas 90° from these holes. If the backlash is not
timing cover until it seats. 2. Disconnect the negative battery cable. within specifications, replace the camshaft and
4. To complete the installation, reverse the 3. Remove the engine from the vehicle. crankshaft gears.
removal procedures. Torque the crankshaft 4. Remove the camshaft and gear assembly 12. Lubricate the camshaft journals with a
balancer bolt to 203-350 ft. lbs. from the engine block. high quality engine oil supplement. Install the
5. Using an arbor press and adapter, remove camshaft and gear into the engine block.
the gear from the camshaft. Position the thrust 13. Rotate the camshaft and crankshaft so
plate to avoid damage by interference with the the timing marks on the gear teeth align. The
Timing Gear and/or Woodruff® key as the gear is removed. engine is now in No. 4 cylinder firing position.
Chain To install:
14. Install the camshaft thrust plate-to-block
screws and tighten to 90 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
6. Support the camshaft at the back of the
t SEE FIGS. 65 to 69 15. Install the engine in the vehicle.
front journal in the arbor press using press plate
16. Connect the negative battery cable.
adapters.
7. Position the spacer ring thrust plate over CHAIN DRIVEN
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION the end of the shaft and Woodruff® key in In some 1990 cars, General Motors started
keyway. using a camshaft driven by a chain rather than
8. Press the gear on the shaft with the bottom gears. Most of the repair procedures for these
2.5L Engine against the spacer ring. Measure the end newer design engines are the same. The main
clearance at the thrust plate. Clearance should difference is the procedure needed to service the
On the 2.5L engine that does jiot be within 0.0015-0.0050 in. (0.0381- timing chain. Limited working space still makes
use a timing chain, the camshaft 1.270mm). service difficult, but the engine no longer needs
gear is press fitted on the 9. If the clearance is less than 0.0015 in. to be removed to service the chain or gears.
camshaft. If replacement of the (0.0381mm), replace the spacer ring. 1. Relieve the pressure in the fuel system
camshaft gear is necessary, the 2. 10. If more than 0.0050 in. (1.270mm), before disconnecting any fuel line connections.
engine must be removed from the make certain the gear is seated properly against Disconnect the negative battery cable.
vehicle and the camshaft and gear the spacer. If the clearance is still excessive, 2. Remove the crankcase front cover.
removed from the engine. replace the thrust plate. 3. Place the No. 1 piston at TDC with the

1. Camshaft
2. Key
3. Tensioner
4. Bolt (43 ft. lbs.)
5. Bolt (43 ft. lbs.)
6. Washer
7. Sprocket and chain
assembly
8. Bolt (89 inch lbs.)
9. Bearing
10. Timing marks to be
aligned as shown
when the engine is
rotated to TDC

FIG.65 Timing chain assembly on newer 2.5L engine

3-72 ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL

NOTE-ALIGN TIMING MARKS ON CAM

& CRANK SPROCKETS USING ALIGNMENT
MARKS ON DAMPER STAMPING OR CAST
ALIGNMENT MARKS ON CVL & CASE.

ALIGNMENT
MARKS
aligned.
4. Remove the camshaft sprocket and chain.
FIG.67 Timing chain assembly - 2.8L (VIN W) and 3.1 L (VIN T) engines
p* If the sprocket does not come off
easily, a light blow with a plastic
mallet on the lower edge of the To Install: 9. Draw the camshaft sprocket onto the
sprocket should dislodge the 6. Install the crankshaft sprocket. Apply camshaft using the mounting bolts. Tighten the
sprocket. Molykote® or equivalent, to the sprocket thrust camshaft sprocket mounting bolts to 18 ft lbs.
surface. (25 Nm).
5. Remove the crankshaft sprocket.
7. Hold the sprocket with the chain hanging 10. Lubricate the timing chain with engine oil.
To Install:
down and align the marks on the camshaft and Install the crankcase front cover. Connect battery
6. Install the crankshaft sprocket. Apply
crankshaft sprockets. negative cable.
Molykote® or equivalent, to the sprocket thrust
8. Align the dowel in the camshaft with the
surface.
dowel hole in the camshaft sprocket.
7. Hold the sprocket with the chain hanging
down and align the marks on the camshaft and
crankshaft sprockets.
8. Align the dowel in the camshaft with the
dowel hole in the camshaft sprocket.
9. Draw the camshaft sprocket onto the
camshaft using the mounting bolts. Tighten the
camshaft sprocket mounting bolts to 18 ft. lbs.
(25 Nm).
10. Lubricate the timing chain with engine oil.
Install the crankcase front cover. Connect battery
negative cable.
2.8Land 3.1 L Engines
1. Relieve the pressure in the fuel system
before disconnecting any fuel line connections.
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove the crankcase front cover.
3. Place the No. 1 piston at TDC with the
marks on the camshaft and crankshaft sprockets
aligned. 1. Bolt
4. Remove the camshaft sprocket and chain. 2. Timing chain
3. Camshaft sprocket
If the sprocket does not come off 4. Key
easily, a light blow with a plastic 5. Damper assembly
mallet on the lower edge of the 6. Crankshaft sprocket
sprocket should dislodge the
sprocket. ALIGN'
MARKS
5. Remove the crankshaft sprocket.
FIG.66 Timing chain assembly - 3.3L engine
 ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL 3-73

3.0L Engine 2. Remove the crankcase front cover and 3.8L Engine
1. Remove the timing chain cover. camshaft thrust bearing. 1. Relieve the pressure in the fuel system
2. Turn the crankshaft so that the timing 3. Turn the crankshaft so the timing marks before disconnecting any fuel line connections.
marks are aligned. are aligned. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
3. Remove the crankshaft oil slinger. ' 4. Remove the timing chain damper and 2. Remove the crankcase front cover.
4. Remove the camshaft sprocket bolts. camshaft sprocket bolts. 3. Turn the crankshaft so the timing marks
5. Use two prybars to alternately pry the 5. Remove the camshaft sprocket and chain. are aligned.
camshaft and crankshaft sprocket free along Remove the crankshaft sprocket 4. Remove the crankshaft oil slinger, as
with the chain. To Install: required.
6. Installation is the reverse of removal. If the 6. Make sure the crankshaft is positioned so 5. Remove the camshaft sprocket bolts.
engine was turned, make sure that the #1 No. 1 piston is at TDC on compression stroke. 6. Remove the cam sensor magnet
cylinder is at TDC. 7. Rotate the camshaft with the sprocket
assembly.
temporarily Installed, so the timing mark is
7. Use 2 prybars to alternately pry the
3.3L Engine straight down. camshaft and crankshaft sprocket free along
1. Relieve the pressure in the fuel system 8. Assembly the timing chain on the
with the chain.
before disconnecting any fuel line connections. sprockets with the timing marks aligned. Install
Disconnect the negative battery cable. the timing chain and sprocket. To Install:
9. Install the camshaft sprocket bolts. Torque 8. Make sure the crankshaft is positioned so
the bolts to 27 ft. lbs. (37 Nm). No. 1 piston is at TDC.
10. install the timing chain damper and 9. Rotate the camshaft with the sprocket
engine front cover. Connect battery negative temporarily installed, so the timing mark is
cable. straight down.

FIG.69 Timing chain assembly - 4.3L engine

 3-74 ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL
10. Assembly the timing chain on the 8. Remove the oil pump driveshaft and gear 19. Install the spark plugs and fuel pump.
sprockets with the timing marks aligned. Install assembly. 20. Install the lifters. Install the pushrod
the timing chain and sprocket. 9. Remove the crankshaft hub and timing cover and gasket.
11. Install the cam sensor magnet assembly. gear cover. 21. Install the pushrods, rocker arms and
12. Install the oil slinger with the large part of 10. Remove the 2 camshaft thrust plate rocker cover.
the cone toward the front of the engine, as screws by working through the holes in the gear. 22. Install the engine in the vehicle.
required. 11. Remove the camshaft and gear assembly 23. Connect the negative battery cable.
13. Install the camshaft sprocket bolt, thrust by pulling it through the front of the block. Take
2.8L Engine
button and spring. care not to damage the bearings.
14. Install the timing chain damper and 12. If replacement of the camshaft gear is 1. Relieve the pressure in the fuel system
engine front cover. necessary, use the following procedure: before disconnecting any fuel line connections.
a. Remove the camshaft gear using an 2. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
4.3L Diesel Engine arbor press and adapter. 3. Remove the engine as previously outlined,
The following procedure requires b. Position the thrust plate to avoid and support it on a suitable engine stand.
the bleed-down of the valve lifters. damage by interference with the Woodruff® 4. Remove the intake manifold, valve cover,
Read that procedure before key as the gear is removed. rocker arms, pushrods and valve lifters.
proceeding. c. When assembling the gear onto the 5. Remove the crankshaft balancer and front
camshaft, support the camshaft at the back of cover.
1. Remove the front cover. 6. Remove the timing chain and sprockets.
the front journal in the arbor press using press
2. Loosen all the rocker arms. See Rocker 7. Carefully remove the camshaft. Avoid
Arm Removal and Installation. plate adapters.
d. Press the gear on the shaft until it marring the camshaft bearing surfaces.
3. Remove the crankshaft oil slinger. To install:
bottoms against the spacer ring.
4. Remove the camshaft sprocket bolt. 8. Coat the camshaft with lubricant 1052365
e. Measure the end clearance of the
5. Using two prybars, work the camshaft and or equivalent, and install the camshaft.
crankshaft sprockets alternately off their shafts thrust plate. End clearance should be 0.0015—
0.0050 in. (0.0381-0.1270mm). 9. Install the timing chain and sprocket.
along with the chain. It may be necessary to 10. Install the camshaft thrust button and
f. If clearance is less than 0.0015 in.
remove the crankshaft sprocket with a puller. front cover.
(0.0381mm), replace the spacer ring.
6. Installation is the reverse of removal. If the
g. If clearance is more than 0.0050 in. 11. Install the crankshaft balancer.
engine was turned, make sure that the #1 piston
(0.127mm), replace the thrust plate. 12. Install the intake manifold, valve cover,
is at TDC. Bleed the lifters following the
To install: rocker arms, pushrods and valve lifters.
procedure under Diesel Engine Valve Lifter Bleed-
13. Lubricate the camshaft journals with a 13. Install the engine in the vehicle.
Down.
high quality engine oil supplement and 14. Connect the negative battery cable.
carefully install the camshaft and gear into the 15. Adjust the valves, as required.
cylinder block.
Camshaft 14. Rotate the camshaft and crankshaft so
3.0L Engine
the timing marks on the gear teeth align. The 1. Remove the engine as described earlier.
engine is now in No. 4 cylinder firing position. 2. Remove the intake manifold.
15. Install the camshaft thrust plate-to- 3. Remove the rocker arm covers.
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 4. Remove the rocker arm assemblies,
block screw. Torque the screw to 90 inch lbs.
(10 Nm). pushrods and lifters.
16. Install the crankshaft hub and timing 5. Remove the timing chain and camshaft
2.5L Engine gear cover. sprocket as described earlier.
^ On the 2.5L engine that does not 17. Install the oil pump driveshaft and gear 6. Installation is the reverse of removal.
use a timing chain, the camshaft assembly.
3.8L Engine
gear Is press fitted on the 18. Install the lower alternator bracket,
camshaft. alternator and the front engine mount bracket 1. Relieve the pressure in the fuel system
assembly. before disconnecting any fuel line connections.
1. Relieve the pressure in the fuel system
before disconnecting any fuel line connections.
2. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
3. Remove the engine as previously outlined,
and support it on a suitable engine stand.
4. Remove the rocker cover, rocker arms and
pushrods.
5. Remove the spark plugs and fuel pump.
6. Remove the pushrod cover and gasket.
Remove the lifters.
7. Remove the alternator, the alternator lower
bracket and the front engine mount bracket
assembly.
 ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL 3-75
2. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 1. Remove the camshaft rear cover.
3. Remove the engine as previously outlined, Camshaft Bearings 2. Using Tool J-6098 (1982-84) or J-
and support it on a suitable engine stand. 33049 (1985-88 and later) or its equivalent,
4. Remove the intake manifold. with nut and thrust washer installed to end of
5. Remove the rocker arm covers. threads, index pilot in camshaft front bearing and
6. Remove the rocker arm assemblies,
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION install puller screw through pilot.
pushrods and lifters. 3. Install remover and installer tool with
7. Remove the timing chain cover. shoulder toward bearing, making sure a
2.5L Engine sufficient amount of threads are engaged.
Align the timing marks of the
1. Remove the engine from the vehicle as 4. Using two wrenches, hold puller screw
camshaft and crankshaft sprockets while turning nut. When bearing has been pulled
to avoid burring the camshaft previously outlined.
2. Remove the camshaft from the engine as from bore, remove remover and installer tool and
journals by the crankshaft. bearing from puller screws.
previously outlined.
8. Remove the timing chain, camshaft sensor 5. Remove remaining bearings (except front
3. Unbolt and remove the engine flywheel.
magnet assembly and sprockets. 4. Drive the rear camshaft expansion plug out and rear) in the same manner. It will be
To install: of the engine block from the inside. necessary to index pilot in camshaft rear bearing
9. Coat the camshaft with lubricant 1052365 5. Using a camshaft bearing service tool, J- to remove the rear intermediate bearing.
or equivalent, and install the camshaft. 21473-1 (1982-84) orJ-33049 (1985 and 6. Assemble remover and installer tool on
10. Install the timing chain, camshaft sensor later), drive the front camshaft bearing towards driver handle and remove camshaft front and
magnet assembly and sprockets. the rear and the rear bearing towards the front. rear bearings by driving towards center of
11. Install the camshaft thrust button and 6. Install the appropriate extension tool J- cylinder block.
front cover. 21054-1 on the service tool and drive the center The camshaft front and rear bearings should
12. Complete installation by reversing the bearing out towards the rear. be installed first These bearings will act as
removal procedure. Connect battery negative 7. Drive all of the new bearings into place in guides for the pilot and center the remaining
cable. the opposite direction of which they were bearings being pulled into place.
removed, making sure to align the oil holes of 1. Assemble remover and installer tool on
4.3L Diesel Engine
each bearing with each of the feed holes in the driver handle and install camshaft front and rear
*+■This procedure requires the engine block bores. bearings by driving towards center of cylinder
removal, disassembly, cleaning, block.
The front camshaft bearing must
reassembly and bleed-down of all 2. Using Tool Set J-6098 (1982-84) or J-
be driven approximately Vs In.
the valve lifters. Read that 33049 (1985 and later), or its equivalent with nut
(3mm) behind the front of the
procedure, described earlier, then thrust washer installed to end of threads,
cylinder block to uncover the oil
before proceeding. hole to the timing gear oiling index pilot in camshaft front bearing and install
1. Remove the engine as described earlier. puller screw through pilot.
nozzle.
2. Remove the intake manifold. 3. Index camshaft bearing in bore (with oil
8. Install the camshaft into the engine then hole aligned as outlined below), then install
3. Remove the oil pump drive assembly. reinstall the engine as previously outlined.
4. Remove the timing chain cover. remover and installer tool on puller screw with
5. Align the timing marks. shoulder toward bearing.
2.8L Engine
6. Remove the rocker arms, pushrods and • The rear and intermediate bearing oil holes
Camshaft bearings can be replaced with must be aligned at 2:30 o’clock.
lifters, keeping them in order for reassembly. engine completely or partially disassembled. To
7. Remove the timing chain and camshaft • The front bearing oil holes must be aligned
replace bearings without complete disassembly at 1:00 and 2:30 o’clock (two holes).
lifters, keeping them in order for reassembly. remove the camshaft and crankshaft leaving
8. Remove the camshaft bearing retainer. 4. Using two wrenches, hold puller screw
cylinder heads attached and pistons in place.
9. Remove the cam sprocket key. while turning nut. After bearing has been pulled
Before removing crankshaft, tape threads of into bore, remove the remover and installer tool
10. Remove the injection pump drive gear. connecting rod bolts to prevent damage to from puller screw and check alignment of oil
11. Remove the injection pump driven gear, crankshaft. Fasten connecting rods against sides
intermediate pump adapter and pump adapter. hole in camshaft bearing.
of engine so they will not be in the way while
Remove the snapring and selective washer. 5. Install remaining bearings in the same
replacing camshaft bearings.
Remove the driven gear and spring.
12. Carefully slide the camshaft out of the
EXPANDING COLLET
block.
13. If the camshaft bearings are being
replaced, you’ll have to remove the oil pan.
14. Installation is the reverse of removal.
Perform the complete valve lifter bleed-down
procedure mentioned earlier.

FIG.70 Camshaft bearing removal and installation tool - OHV engine

3-76 ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL
manner. It will be necessary to index pilot in the to remove the engine or welch plug. d. Remove all the metal particles that
camshaft rear bearing to install the rear The front bearing can be removed entered the block and all traces of the old
intermediate bearing. Clean the rear cover by using a spacer between the sealer.
mating surfaces and bolt holes then apply a Vs pulling plate and the cylinder block. Failure to remove the metal
in. (3mm) bead of R.T.V. to the cover. Install the To Install the bearings: particles will result In engine
cover. 10. Assemble puller screw to required length. damage.
3.1 Land 3.3L Engine 11. Select proper size expanding collect and 3. Front bearing removal and installation:
back-up nut. a. To remove the front (No. 1) camshaft
1. Remove the engine from the vehicle as
12. Install expanding collect on expanding bearing, support the retainer in a vise and drive
previously outlined.
mandrel. the bearing out using BT-6409-2 with driver
2. Remove the camshaft from the engine as
13. Install back-up nut BT-6409-7.
previously outlined.
14. Place new camshaft bearing on collect b. To install the bearing use the same
3. Remove the camshaft rear plug.
and GENTLY hand tighten back-up nut to expand tools but make certain that the oil hole In the
4. Assembly the removal tool. Using care and
collect to fit bearing. Do not overtighten back-up bearing is in alignment with the oil hole in the
follow proper tool instructions remove camshaft
nut. A loose sliding fit between collect and retainer.
bearings.
bearing surface is adequate. This will provide 4. #2,3, & 4 bearing removal and
5. Select the proper pilot, nut and thrust
just enough clearance to allow for the collapse Installation:
washer.
which will occur when the new bearing Is pulled
6. Assemble to J-33-49. Make certain the a. Install tool BT-6409-2 on handle BT-
into the engine block.
puller engages a sufficient number of threads 6409-7 and drive out No. 2 cam bearing.
15. Slide mandrel assembly and bearing Into
and pull the bearing. b. Remove the No. 3 bearing in the same
bearing bore as far as it will go without force.
7. Install the appropriate extension tool J- manner using BT-6409-3 on handle BT-
16. Thread end of puller screw onto the end
21054-1 on the service tool and drive the center 6409-7.
of the mandrel. Make certain to align oil holes in
bearing out towards the rear. c. Remove the No. 4 bearing using puller
bearing and block properly. One of the collect
BT-6409-8.
3.0L and 3.8L Engines separation lines may be used as a reference
To aid aligning the bearings with the oil
point.
Care must be exercised during bearing passages, place each bearing in the front of
17. Install pulling plate, thrust bearing and
removal and installation, not to damage bearings the bore with tapered edge toward the block
pulling nut on threaded end of puller screw.
that are not being replaced. and align the oil hole in the bearing with the
18. Install bearing in the same manner as
1. Remove camshaft as previously outlined. center of the oil slot in the bore. Mark bottom
described in Steps 8 and 9 under Bearing
2. Assemble puller screw to required length. of bearing. When installing the bearings, the
Removal.
3. Select proper size expanding collect and mark will act as a guide.
back-up nut. When Installing rear cam bearing, Using pilot BT—6409—1 will aid in installing
4. Install expanding collect on expanding install new welch plug at back of the No. 4 and 3 bearings by preventing
mandrel. Install back-up nut. cam bore. Coat O.D. of plug with cocking of the bearings.
5. Insert this assembly into camshaft bearing non-hardening sealer before d. lnstall No. 4 bearing using tool BT-6409-
to be removed. Tighten back-up nut to expand Installation. 4.
collect to fit I.D. of bearing. Drive the bearing In carefully,
4.3L Diesel Engine
6. Thread end of puller screw assembly into stopping te make certain that the
end of expanding mandrel and collect assembly. The front camshaft bearing may be replaced
separately but numbers 2,3 and 4 must be oil holes are In alignment otherwise
7. Install pulling plate, thrust bearing, and It Is possible to drive the bearing In
pulling nut on threaded end of puller screw. replaced as a completed set. This is because It
is necessary to remove the forward bearings to beyond the oil passage opening.
8. Bearing can then be removed by turning Use a piece of %2 In. (2.4mm) brass
pulling nut. gain access to the rearward bearings.
Camshaft Bearing Remover and Installer Set rod with a 90° bend at the end te
Make certain to grip the •/» In. hex BT—6409 and camshaft bearing pilot spacer BT- check the oil hole opening.
end of the puller screw with a 7817 are available tools. This set can be used to e. lnstall the No. 3 bearing using tool BT-
wrench to keep It from rotating remove can bearings. To replace bearings with 6409-3 until the oil holes are in alignment
when the pulling nut Is turned. engine in car, proceed as follows: f. Install the No. 2 bearing using tool BT-
Failure to do this will result In the
The equivalents of special tools 6409-2 carefully until the oil holes are in
locking up of all threads In the
mentioned here may be used. alignment.
pulling assembly and possible over
g. Use a piece of 3/32 in. (2.4mm) brass
expansion of the collect. 1. Remove the camshaft as previously rod with a 90° bend at the end to check all oil
9. Repeat the above procedure to remove any outlined. hole openings. Wire must enter hole or the
other bearings, except the front bearing, which 2. Remove the rear camshaft plug: bearing will not receive sufficient lubrication.
may be pulled from the rear of the engine. a. Drill a 12mm or V2 in. hole in the center
5. Install the rear plug:
of the plug.
When removing rear cam bearing, a. Coat the block with R.T.V. sealer.
b. Drive the plug Inward carefully just
it is necessary to remove welch b. Drive the plug into the block until it is
enough to loosen it in the block.
plug at the back of cam bore. flush or no more than 0.5mm (0.020 in.)
c. Place a punch or screwdriver in the
However, If only the front bearing Is concave.
drilled hole and remove the plug.
being replaced, it Is not necessary
 ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL 3-77
c. Install the camshaft and engine determined by subtracting the 3. Remove the oil pan.
assembly. Road test the car and inspect for second measurement from the 4. Remove the oil pump assembly.
leaks. first. If all exhaust lobes and all 5. Stamp the cylinder number on the
intake lobes are not identical, the machined surfaces of the bolt bosses of the
camshaft must be reground or connecting rod and cap for identification when
CHECKING CAMSHAFT replaced. reinstalling. If the pistons are to be removed from
the connecting rod, mark the cylinder number on
the piston with a silver pencil or quick drying
Degrease the camshaft, using solvent, and paint for proper cylinder identification and cap to
clean out all oil holes. Visually inspect cam lobes Pistons and Connecting rod location. The 2.5L engine is numbered 1-4
and bearing journals for excessive wear. If a lobe Rods from front to back; on the 3.0L, 3.3L, 3.8L and
is questionable, check all lobes as indicated 4.3L diesel V6s, the right (rear) bank is
below. If a journal or lobe is worn, the camshaft numbered 2-4-6, left (front) bank 1-3-5; the
must be reground or replaced. 2.8L and 3.1 L engine are numbered 1-3-5 on
If a journal Is worn, there Is a ** CAUTION the right bank, 2-4-6 on the left bank.
good chance that the bushings are 6. Examine the cylinder bore above the ring
worn. If lobes and journals appear The EPA warns that prolonged
travel. If a ridge exists, remove the ridge with a
intact, place the front and rear contact with used engine oil may
ridge reamer before attempting to remove the
journals in V-blocks, and rest a dial cause a number of skin disorders,
piston and rod assembly.
indicator on the center Journal. including cancerl You should make
7. Remove the rod bearing cap and bearing.
Rotate the camshaft to check every effort to minimize your
exposure to used engine oil. 8. Install a guide hose over threads of rod
straightness. If deviation exceeds bolts. This is to prevent damage to bearing
O.OOI in. (0.025mm), replace the Protective gloves should be worn
when changing the oil. Wash your journal and rod bolt threads.
camshaft. Check the camshaft
hands and any other exposed skin All caps and rods are matched
lobes with a micrometer, by
measuring the lobes from the nose areas as soon as possible after pairs and must be assembled
to base and again at 90°. The lift is exposure to used engine oil. Soap together. They must also return to
and water, or waterless hand their original locations. Match
cleaner should be used. mark all caps to rods, for both
location and direction. Installing
the caps on the wrong rod or facing
the wrong way will cause
perminate engine damage.
REMOVAL 9. Remove the rod and piston assembly
through the top of the cylinder bore.
1. Remove the engine assembly from the car, 10. Remove any other rod and piston
see Engine Removal and Installation. assemblies in the same manner, pistons must be
marked for proper identification, too. If the piston
2. Remove the intake manifold, cylinder head
Fig. 70b Camshaft lube measurement locations are to be removed from the rods, mark the
or heads.
cylinder number on the piston with a silver pencil
or paint for proper identification.

CLEANING AND INSPECTION

Pistons
Using a piston ring expansion tool, remove the
rings from the piston. Removing the rings by any
other method usually will damage the rings and
could also scratch the piston requiring a new
piston.
Clean varnish from piston skirts and pins with
a cleaning solvent. DO NOT WIRE BRUSH ANY
PART OF THE PISTON. Clean the ring grooves
with a groove cleaner and make sure oil ring
holes and slots are clean.
Inspect the piston for cracked ring lands,
skirts or pin bosses, wavy or worn ring lands,
Fig. 70c Checking the camshaft for straightness scuffed or damaged skirts, eroded areas at top
3-78 ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL

prevent possible damage to these units, do not

INSERT FEELER GAUGE AT TOP OF THE clamp rod or piston is vise since they may
RING GROOVE TO MEASURE RING SIDE
CLEARANCE
become distorted. Do not allow pistons to strike
FIG.73 Installing piston pin using tool
against one another, against hard objects or
J—24086 shown
bench surfaces, since distortion of piston
contour or nicks in the soft aluminum material
may result. 0.0076-0.033mm (0.003-0.0013 in.) loose. If
1. Remove piston rings using suitable piston the pin to piston clearance is to the high limit
ring remover. 0.0127-0.033mm (0.005 in. piston or 0.0013
2. Install guide bushing of piston pin in. rod), the pin can be inserted in the piston or
removing and installing tool. rod with very little hand pressure and will fall
3. Install piston and connecting rod assembly through the piston or rod by its own weight. If the
on support and place assembly in an arbor clearance is 0.0076mm (0.0003 in.), the pin will
FIG.72 Measuring piston ring side clearance press. Press pin out of connecting rod, using the not fall through. It is important that the piston and
appropriate piston pin tool. rod pin hole be clean and free of oil when
4. Clean all disassembled parts completely. checking pin fit.
of the piston. Replace pistons that are damaged The rod may be installed in the piston with
5. Use a mircometerto measure the diameter
or show signs of excessive wear.
of the piston pin. Use an inside mircometer to either side facing up. Whenever the replacement
Inspect the grooves for nicks or burrs that measure to piston pin bore. of a piston pin is necessary, remove the snapring
might cause the rings to hang up. retaining the pin. Then remove pin.
Measure piston skirt (across center line of Iff the piston pln-to-plston
clearance Is In excess of O.OOI In. It is very important that after installing the
piston pin) and check piston clearance. piston pin retaining snaprings that the rings be
(0.0254mm), the piston and pin
Connecting Rods assembly must be replaced. rotated to make sure they are fully seated in their
grooves. The snapring must be installed with the
Wash connecting rods in cleaning solvent and 6. Lube piston and pin assembly and press fit fiat side out.
dry with compressed air. Check for twisted or together.
bent rods and inspect for nicks or cracks.
Never exceed 5000 lbs. off
Replace connecting rods thatare damaged.
pressure when press fitting piston POSITIONING
and pins.
PISTON PIN REPLACEMENT 7. After installing the piston pins, check that
*+ Most pistons are notched or
the piston has freedom of motion.
marked to Indicate which way they
Diesel Engines should be Installed. If your pistons
Gasoline Engines The piston pin is a free floating piston pin and are not marked, mark them before
Use care at all times when handling and the correct piston pin fit in the piston is 0.0076— removal. Then reinstall them In the
servicing connecting rods and pistons To 0.0127mm (0.0003-0.0005 in.) and rod is proper position.
 ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL 3-79
NOTCH TOWARD FRONT OF ENGINE
bore diameter to determine piston-to-bore
NOTCH TOWARD FRONT OF ENGINE clearance.

/ (LEFT BANK PISTON SHOWN)

4. Compare piston-to-bore clearance
obtained with those clearances recommended.
Determine is piston-to-bore clearance is in
acceptable range.
5. When measuring taper, the largest reading
must be at the bottom of the skirt.

SELECTING NEW PISTONS

1. If the used piston is not acceptable, check

service piston sizes and determine if a new
piston can be selected. Service pistons are
available in standard, high limit and standard
FIG.76 Piston identification - 3.0L engine 0.254mm (0.010 in.) oversize.
2. Occasionally during the honing operation,
the cylinder bore should be thoroughly cleaned
and the selected piston checked for correct fit.
3. When finish honing a cylinder bore, the
hone should be moved up and down at a
sufficient speed to obtain very fine uniform
surface finish marks in a cross hatch pattern of
approximately 45° to 65° included angle. The
FIG.74 Piston identification - 2.5L engine finish marks should be clean but not sharp, free
from imbedded particles and tom or folded
metal.
4. Permanently mark the piston for the
cylinder to which it has been fitted and proceed
to hone the remaining cylinders.
Handle pistons with care. Do not
attempt to force pistons through
cylinders through cylinders until
the cylinders have been honed to
correct size. Pistons can be
MEASURING THE OLD distorted through careless
PISTONS handling.
5. Thoroughly clean the bores with hot water
Check used piston to cylinder bore clearance and detergent. Scrub well with a stiff bristle
as follows: brush and rinse thoroughly with hot water. It is
1. Measure the cylinder bore diameter with a extremely essential that a good cleaning
telescope gage. operation be performed. If any of the abrasive
2. Measure the piston diameter. When material is allowed to remain in the cylinder
measuring piston for size or taper, measurement bores, it will rapidly wear the new rings and
must be made with the piston pin removed. cylinder bores. The bores should be swabbed
3. Subtract piston diameter from cylinder several times with light engine oil and a clean

1. Notch on piston 2. No. 2, 4 and 6 has

towards front of two bosses on
engine rod towards the front
Left bank of engine (not
2. No. 1,3 and 5 has shown)
two bosses on 3. Chamfered corners
rod towards rear of on rod cap towards
engine (not shown) rear of engine
3. Chamfered corners
on rod cap towards
front of engine
FIG.78 Piston identification - 3.8L engine Right bank
3-80 ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL
ROD BEARING
REPLACEMENT

If you have already removed the connecting

rod and piston assemblies from the engine,
follow only steps 3-7 of the following procedure.

REMOVAL, INSPECTION,
INSTALLATION

The connecting rod bearings are designed to

have a slight projection above the rod and cap
cloth and then wiped with a clean dry cloth. Fitting faces to insure a positive contact. The bearings
CYLINDERS SHOULD NOT BE CLEANED WITH can be replaced without removing the rod and
1. Slip the compression ring in the cylinder
KEROSENE OR GASOLINE. Clean the remainder piston assembly from the engine.
bore. Be sure the ring is square with the cylinder
of the cylinder block to remove the excess 1. Remove the oil pan, see Oil Pan. It may be
wall.
material spread during the honing operation. necessary to remove the oil pump to provide
2. Measure the space between the ends of
access to rear connecting rod bearings.
the ring with a feeler gauge.
2. With the connecting rod journal at the
3. If the gap between the ends of the ring is
CHECKING CYLINDER BORE bottom, stamp the cylinder number on the
below specifications, remove the ring and try
machined surfaces of connecting rod and cap
another for fit.
for identification when reinstalling, then remove
Cylinder bore size can be measured with 4. Fit each compression ring to the cylinder in caps.
inside micrometers or a cylinder gage. The most which it is to be used. 3. Inspect journals for roughness and wear.
wear will occur at the top of the ring travel. 5. If the pistons have not been cleaned, do so Slight roughness may be removed with a fine grit
Reconditioned cylinder bores should be held prior to installing them. polishing cloth saturated with engine oil. Burrs
to not more than 0.025mm (0.001 in.) out-of- 6. Slip the outer surface of the top and may be removed with a fine oil stone by moving
round and 0.025mm (0.001 in.) taper. second compression ring into the respective ring the stone on the journal circumference. Do not
If the cylinder bores are smooth, the cylinder groove and roll the ring around the groove. If move the stone back and forth across the
walls should not be deglazed. If the cylinder binding is caused by a distorted ring, check journal. If the journals are scored or ridged, the
walls are scored, the walls may have to be another ring. crankshaft must be replaced.
honed before installing new rings. It is important 4. The connecting rod journals should be
that reconditioned cylinder bores be thoroughly checked for out-of-round and correct size with a
washed with a soap and water solution to INSTALLATION micrometer.
remove all traces of abrasive material to Crankshaft rod Journals will
eliminate premature wear.
1. Install oil ring spacer in the groove being normally be standard size. If any
sure the ends are butted and not overlapped. undersized crankshafts are used,
2. Hold the spacer ends butted and install all will be 0.254mm undersize and
PISTON RING 0.254mm will be stamped the
lower steel oil ring rail.
REPLACEMENT 3. Install upper steel oil ring rail with the gap number 4 counterweight.
staggered. If plastic gaging material is to be used:
Using a ring expander, remove the rings from 4. Flex the oil ring to make sure it is free. If 5. Clean oil from the journal bearing cap,
the piston. binding occurs, determine the cause. connecting rod and outer and inner surface of
Clean the ring grooves using an appropriate 5. Install the second compression ring. the bearing inserts. Position insert so that tang is
tool, exercising care to avoid cutting too deeply. Stagger the gap. properly aligned with notch in rod and cap.
Thoroughly clean all carbon and varnish from the 6. Install the top compression ring. Stagger 6. Place a piece of plastic gaging material in
piston with solvent. the gap. the center of lower bearing shell.
r+ In order to Install the piston and 7. Remove bearing cap and determine
rings, you will need a ring bearing clearances by comparing the width of
WARNING compressor. This tool squeezes the the flattened plastic gaging material at its widest
Do not use a wire brush or caustic rings thereby allowing them to fit point with the graduation on the container. The
solvent on pistons. into the cylinder bore. number within the graduation on the envelopes
indicates the clearance in thousandths of an inch
or millimeters. If this clearance is excessive,
Inspect the pistons for scuffing, scoring, replace the bearing and recheck clearance with
cracks, pitting, or excessive ring groove wear. If plastic gaging material. Lubricate bearing with
wear is evident, the piston must be replaced. engine oil before installation. Repeat Steps 2
 ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL 3-81
through 7 on remaining connecting rod bearings. the coolant into a sealable container. Coolant should be
All rods must be connected to their journals container. Coolant should be reused unless It Is contaminated or
when rotating the crankshaft to prevent engine reused unless It Is contaminated or several years old.
damage. several years old.

3. Remove the block heater in the same way

3. If equipped with drain plugs on the engine as the freeze plugs. Some heater units have a
Piston and Connecting remove them. They would be located at the bolt that must be loosened or a V-Clamp that
Rod bottom of the block near the oil pan. must be removed to remove the heating element.
4. Remove any components that restrict 4. Disconnect the heater connector and
access to the freeze plugs, like the starter or remove the heater element
motor mounts. 5. Coat the new heater with sealant and install
5. Wearing proper eye protection, tap the as removed.
INSTALLATION 6. Fill the engine with coolant, connect the
bottom edge of the freeze plug with a chisel. This
should tilt the freeze plug, not cut it Then use battery cable. Start engine and check for leaks.
1. Install connecting rod bolt guide hose over pliers to pull or pry the freeze plug from its bore.
rod bolt threads. Another method is to drill the freeze plug and use
2. Apply engine oil to the rings and piston, a slide hammer, but more often there’s not Rear Main Oil Seal
then install piston ring compressing tool on the enough room to do that
piston. 6. After the plug is removed clean the area
3. Install the assembly in its respective completely. Coat the freeze plug and/or bore
cylinder bore. with gasket sealant REMOVAL & INSTALATION
4. Lubricate the crankshaft journal with 7. Install the freeze plug into the hole, it must
engine oil and install connecting rod bearing and do in evenly or it will keep popping back out as
cap, with bearing index tang in rod and capon you tap on it Using a plug installer or socket that 2.5L Engine
same side. fits the edge of the plug can help keep it straight
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
When more than one rod and as you tap it in place.
2. Support the engine. Remove the transaxle
piston assembly Is being Installed, 8. Fill the engine with coolant, connect the and flywheel.
the connecting rod cap attaching battery cable. Start engine and check for leaks.
3. Being careful not to scratch the crankshaft,
nuts should only be tightened pry out the old seal with an suitable pry tool.
enough to keep each rod In position To Install:
until all have been Installed. This Block Heater 4. Coat the new seal with clean engine oil and
will aid installation of remaining install it by hand or use seal installer tool J-
piston assemblies. 34924 onto the crankshaft The seal backing
5. Torque the rod bolt nuts to specification. must be flush with the block opening.
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 5. Install the flywheel.
6. Install all other removed parts.
7. Install the engine in the car, see Engine 6. Install the transaxle.
Removal and Installation. Factory block heaters are not installed on 7. Connect the negative battery cable.
these models, if an aftermarket heater has been
2.8L Engine
installed the following procedure will most likely
Freeze Plugs work. There are two basic types, one for the oil 2 PIECE THIN SEAL
and one for the coolant The oil heater usually 1. Remove the oil pan and pump.
just slips into the dipstick tube or replaces the oil 2. Remove the rear main bearing cap.
drain plug. The following procedure is for the
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION coolant type.
1. Remove the negative battery cable.
2. Drain the cooling system.
1. Remove the negative battery cable.
2. Drain the cooling system.
CAUTION
CAUTION When draining the coolant, keep In
mind that cats and dogs are
When draining the coolant, keep In attracted by the ethylene glycol
mind that cats and dogs arc antifreeze, and are quite likely to
attracted by the ethylene glycol drink any that Is left In an
antifreeze, and are quite likely to uncovered container or In puddles FIG.82 Installing the upper rear main seal on
drink any that Is left in an on the ground. This will prove fatal 2 piece seal engine - 2.8L (VIN X) engine
uneevered container or In puddles In sufficient quantity. Always drain shown
on the ground. This will prove fatal the coolant Into a sealable
In sufficient quantity. Always drain
3-82 ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL
6. Install a new lower seal in the rear main
cap.
7. Install a piece of Plastigage® or the
equivalent on the bearing journal. Install the rear
cap and tighten to 70 ft. lbs. Remove the cap and
check the gauge for bearing clearance. If out of
specification, the ends of the seal may be frayed
or not flush, preventing the cap from proper
sealing. Correct as required.
8. Clean the journal, and apply a thin film of
sealer to the mating surfaces of the cap and
block. Do not allow any sealer to get onto the
journal or bearing. Install the bearing cap and
tighten to 70 ft. lbs. Install the pan and pump.
1 PIECE THICK SEAL
1. Remove the transaxle and the flexplate.
2. Using a small pry bar, pry the seal from the
block.

❖❖ CAUTION
Be careful not to damage the
crankshaft surface when removing
the oil seal.

3. Clean and inspect the seal mounting

surface for nicks and burrs.
ALIGNMENT HOLE 4. Coat the new seal with engine oil. Using
tool J—34686, press the seal into the block, until
it seats.
5. To complete the installation, reverse the
removal procedures. Start the engine and check
for leaks.
3.0L and 4.3L Diesel Engines

LOWER OIL SEAL REPAIR

Braided fabric seals are pressed into grooves
formed in crankcase and rear bearing cap to rear
of the oil collecting groove, to seal against
leakage of oil around the crankshaft.
A new braided fabric seal can be installed in
crankcase only when crankshaft is removed, but
it can be repaired while crankshaft is installed, as
outlined under Rear Main Bearing Upper Oil Seal
Repair. The seal can be replaced in cap
whenever the cap is removed. Remove old seal
and place new seal in groove with both ends
3. Gently pack the upper seal into the groove G.M. makes a guide tool (J- projecting surface of cap. Force seal into groove
approximately ’A in. (6mm) on each side. 29114-1) which bolts to the block rubbing down with hammer handle or smooth
4. Measure the amount the seal was driven in via an oil pan bolt hole, and a stick until seal projects above the groove not
on one side and add V16 in. (1.6mm). Cut this packing tool (J-29114-2) which more than V16 in. (1.6mm). Cut ends off flush
length from the old lower cap seal. Be sure to get are machined to provide a built-in with surface of cap, using sharp knife or razor
a sharp cut. Repeat for the other side. stop for the Installation of the short blade.
5. Place the piece of cut seal into the groove cut pieces. Using the packing tool, The engine must be operated at slow speed
and pack the seal into the block. Do this for each work the short pieces of seal onto when first started after a new braided seal is
side. the guide tool, then pack them Into installed.
the block with the packing tool. Neoprene composition seals are placed in
grooves in the sides-of bearing cap to seal
against leakage in the joints between cap and
 ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL 3-83
crankcase. The neoprene composition swells in To install: the connecting rod, mark cylinder number on
the presence of oil and heat. The seals are 5. Coat the new seal with clean engine oil, piston with a silver pencil or quick drying paint
undersize when newly installed and may even and install it using seal Installer tool J—34686 or for proper cylinder identification and cap to rod
leak for a short time until the seals have had time equivalent. location.
to swell and seal the opening. 6. Install the flywheel. 7. Remove the connecting rod caps and
The neoprene seals are slightly longer than the 7. Install the transaxle. install thread protectors.
grooves in the bearing cap. The seals must not 8. Remove the engine support tool. 8. Mark the main bearing caps so that they
be cutto length. Before installation of seals, soak 9. Connect the negative battery cable. can be reinstalled in their original positions.
for 1 to 2 minutes in light oil or kerosene. After 9. Remove all the main bearing caps, mark all
installation of bearing cap in crankcase, install 3.3L and 3.8L Engines caps, main and rod for position. They all must go
seal in bearing cap. 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. back to their original locations and they must all
To help eliminate oil leakage at the joint where 2. Raise and support the vehicle safely. face the same direction. Any cap install
the cap meets the crankcase, apply silastic 3. Drain the engine oil and remove the oil pan. incorrectly will cause engine damage when
sealer, or equivalent, to the rear main bearing 4. Remove the rear main bearing cap. reassembled.
cap split line. When applying sealer, use only a Remove the oil seal from the bearing cap. 10. Note position of keyway in crankshaft so
thin coat as an over abundance will not allow the To Install: it can be installed in the same position.
cap to seat properly. 5. Insert a packing tool J-21526-2 or 11. Lift crankshaft out of block. Rods will
After seal is installed, force seals up into the equivalent against one end of the seal in the pivot to the center of the engine when the
cap with a blunt instrument to be sure of a seal cylinder block. Pack the old seal in until it is tight. crankshaft is removed.
at the upper parting line between the cap and Pack the other end of seal in the same manner. 12. Remove both halves of the rear main oil
case. 6. Measure the amount the seal was driven seal if two piece design, if one piece design
up into the block on one side and add remove the seal.
UPPER OIL SEAL REPAIR approximately 1 2 3 4 5 6/32 in. (2mm). With a single edge
1. Remove oil pan.
razor blade, cut this amount off of the old lower
2. Insert packing tool (J-21526-2) against
seal. The bearing cap can be used as a holding INSTALLATION
one end of the seal in the cylinder block. Drive
fixture.
the old seal gently into the groove until it is
7. Install the packing guide tool J-21526-1
packed tight. This varies from ’A in. (6mm) to 1. Measure the crankshaft journals with a
or equivalent, onto the cylinder block.
3A in. (19mm) depending on the amount of pack 8. Using the packing tool, work the short micrometer to determine the correct size rod and
required. main bearings to be used. Whenever a new or
pieces of the seal into the guide tool and pack
3. Repeat Step 2 on the other end of the seal into the cylinder block until the tool hits the built reconditioned crankshaft is installed, new
in the cylinder block. in stop. Repeat this step on the other side. A connect rod bearings and main bearings should
4. Measure the amount the seal was driven small amount of oil on the pieces of seal may be be installed. See Main Bearings and Rod
up on one side and add V16 in. (1.6mm). Using helpful when packing into the cylinder block. Bearings.
a single edge razor blade, cut that length from 9. Remove the guide tool. 2. Clean all oil passages in the block (and
the old seal removed from the rear main bearing 10. Install a new rope seal in the bearing cap crankshaft if it is being reused.
cap. Repeat the procedure for the other side. Use and install the cap. Torque the retaining bolts to f+■ A new rear main seal should be
the rear main bearing cap as a holding fixture specifications. installed anytime the crankshaft Is
when cutting the seal.
11. Install the oil pan. removed or replaced. If any engine
5. Install Guide Tool (J-21526-1) onto
12. Rll the crankcase with oil. repair is made any related seals or
cylinder block.
13. Connect the negative battery cable. gaskets should be replaced. It’s not
6. Using packing tool, work the short pieces
worth the time lost to repeat a
cut in Step 4 into the guide tool and then pack
repair Job due to an old seal or
into cylinder block. The guide tool and packing
Crankshaft gasket leaking.
tool have been machined to provide a built-in
stop. Use this procedure for both sides. It may 3. Install sufficient oil pan bolts in the block to
help to use oil on the short pieces of the rope | SEE FIGS. 84 to 89 align with the connecting rod bolts. Use rubber
seal when packing into the cylinder block. bands between the bolts to position the
7. Remove the guide tool.
REMOVAL connecting rods as required. Connecting rod
8. Install a new fabric seal in the rear main position can be adjusted by increasing the
bearing cap. Install cap and torque to tension on the rubber bands with additional turns
1. Remove the engine assembly as
specifications. around the pan bolts or thread protectors.
previously outlined.
9. Install oil pan. 4. Position the upper half of main bearings in
2. Remove the engine front cover.
the block and lubricate with engine oil.
3. Remove the timing chain and sprockets or
3.1 L Engine 5. Position crankshaft keyway in the same
gears.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. position as removed and lower into block. The
4. Remove the oil pan.
2. Support the engine with tool J-28467-A connecting rods will follow the crank pins into
5. Remove the oil pump.
or equivalent. the correct position as the crankshaft is lowered.
6. Stamp the cylinder number on the
3. Remove the transaxle and flywheel. 6. Lubricate the thrust flanges with 1050169
machined surfaces of the bolt bosses of the
4. Carefully remove the old seal by inserting Lubricant or equivalent. Install caps with lower
connecting rods and caps for identification when
a prying tool through the dust lip at an angle. Pry half of bearings lubricated with engine oil.
reinstalling. If the pistons are to be removed from
out the old seal with an suitable pry tool.
3-84 ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL

the envelope indicates the clearance in

Main Bearings millimeters or thousandths of an inch. If the
clearance is greater than allowed, REPLACE
BOTH BEARING SHELLS AS A SET. Recheck
clearance after replacing shells.
CHECKING BEARING
CLEARANCE
REPLACEMENT
1. Remove bearing cap and wipe oil from
crankshaft journal and outer and inner surfaces Main bearing clearances must be corrected
Lubricate cap bolts with engine oil and install, of bearing shell. by the use of selective upper and lower shells.
but do not tighten. 2. Place a piece of plastic gaging material in UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES should the use of
7. With a block of wood, bump shaft in each the center of bearing. shims behind the shells to compensate for wear
direction to align thrust flanges of main bearing. 3. Use a floor jack or other means to hold be attempted. To install main bearing shells,
After bumping shaft in each direction, wedge the crankshaft against upper bearing shell. This is proceed as follows:
shaft to the front and hold it while torquing the necessary to obtain accurate clearance readings 1. Remove the oil pan as outlined. On some
thrust bearing cap bolts. when using plastic gaging material. models, the oil pump may also have to be
' 4. Reinstall bearing cap and bearing. Place removed.
r+ In order to prevent the possibility
engine oil on cap bolts and install Torque bolts to 2. Loosen all main bearing caps.
of cylinder block and/or main
specification. 3. Remove bearing cap and remove lower
bearing cap damage, the main
5. Remove bearing cap and determine shell.
bearing caps are to be tapped into
bearing clearance by comparing the width of the 4. Insert a flattened cotter pin or roil out pin in
their cylinder block cavity using a
flattened plastic gaging material at its widest the oil passage hole in the crankshaft in the
brass or leather mallet before
point with graduations on the gaging material direction opposite to cranking rotation. The pin
attaching bolts are installed. Do not
container. The number within the graduation on will contact the upper shell and roil it out.
use attaching bolts to pull main
bearing caps into their seat. Failure
to observe this Information may LOCATING LUG SLOT
damage the cylinder block or a
bearing cap. BEARING
8. Torque all main bearing caps to
specification.
9. Remove the connecting rod bolt thread
protectors and lubricate the connecting rod
bearings with engine oil.
10. Install the connecting rod bearing caps in
their original position. Torque the nuts to
specification.
11. Complete the installation by reversing the HOUSING
removal steps. Fig. 107 Proper location of hub on bearing
 ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL 3-85

5. The main bearing journals should be

checked for roughness and wear. Slight
roughness may be removed with a fine grit
polishing cloth saturated with engine oil. Burrs
may be removed with a fine oil stone. If the
journals are scored or ridged, the crankshaft
must be replaced.
The Journals can be measured for
out-of-round with the crankshaft
installed by using a crankshaft
caliper and inside micrometer or a
main bearing micrometer. The
upper bearing shell must be
removed when measuring the
crankshaft Journals. Maximum out* 8. Place new upper shell on crankshaft surface with lubricant 1050169 or equivalent.
of-round of the crankshaft Journals journal with locating tang incorrect position and 12. Lubricate the main bearing cap bolts with
must not exceed 0.037mm (0.0015 rotate shaft to turn it into place using cotter pin engine oil.
in.). or roll out pin as during removal.'
9. Place new bearing shell in bearing cap. In order to prevent the possibility
6. Clean crankshaft journals and bearing 10. Install a new oil seal in the rear main of cylinder block and/or main
caps thoroughly before installing new main bearing cap and block. bearing cap damage, the main
bearings. 11. Lubricate the removed or replaced main bearing caps are to be tapped Into
7. Apply special lubricant, No. 1050169 to bearings with engine oil. Lubricate the thrust their cylinder block cavity using a
the thrust flanges of bearing shells.

1. Splash guard
2. Balance counter 6. Filter
weight assembly 7. Counterweighted
3. Gerotor oil pump balance shaft
4. Oil pump cover 8. Counterweighted
assembly balance shaft gear
5. Pressure regulator 9. Gerotor oil pump
valve drive
FIG.88 Force balancer assembly - 2.5L engine
3-86 ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL
brass or leather mallet before flywheel to the crankshaft flange. Remove the
attaching bolts are Installed. Do not Flywheel and Ring Gear flywheel.
use attaching bolts to pull main 3. Inspect the flywheel for cracks, and
bearing caps Into their seats. inspect the ring gear for burrs or worn teeth.
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
Failure to observe this Information Replace the flywheel if any damage is apparent.
may damage the cylinder block or a Remove burrs with a mill file.
bearing cap. The ring gear is an integral part of the flywheel 4. Install the flywheel. The flywheel will only
13. Torque the main bearing cap bolts. and is not replaceable. attach to the crankshaft in one position, as the
1. Remove the transmission. bolt holes are unevenly spaced. Install the bolts
2. Remove the six bolts attaching the and torque to specification.

EXHAUST SYSTEM

always under. The procedures

CAUTION covered In this section are for Front Pipe or Crossover
replaceable (non-welded)
Catalytic converters under some
components.
Pipe
conditions can reach temperatures
well above 1000°F. They can Whenever working on the exhaust
become very hot very fast when the system please observe the
engine is running. They also stay following:
hot for a long period of time after REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
the engine has been turned off.
1. Check the complete exhaust system for
open seams, holes loose connections, or other 1. Raise and support the front of the vehicle
deterioration which could permit exhaust fumes on jackstands.
to seep into the passenger compartment. 2. Remove the exhaust pipe-to-manifold
Most factory new exhaust is a one piece nuts.
welded system. This means that even though 2. The exhaust system is supported by free-
hanging rubber mountings which permit some 3. Support the catalytic converter and
you can purchase just one piece of the system
movement of the exhaust system, but do not disconnect the pipe from the converter. Remove
from an aftermarket supplier you may not be
permit transfer of noise and vibration into the the pipe.
able to install it with out cutting and welding.
passenger compartment. 4. To install, use a new gasket, add sealer to
Once the original system has been replaced,
3. Before removing any component of the the connecting surfaces, assembly the system,
then most parts are serviceable separately.
exhaust system, ALWAYS squirt a liquid rust check the clearance and tighten the bolts to
** WARNING dissolving agent onto the fasteners for ease of about 15-18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).
removal. 5. All clamps should be tight to about 25 ft.
4. Annoying rattles and noise vibrations in the lbs. (35 Nm). Do over tighten the clamps, if
It Is advisable before purchasing pipes become dented they can leak also it makes
exhaust system are usually caused by
any parts to examine the system it almost impossible to remove if the pipe is
misalignment of the parts. When aligning the
completely to how much of the dented to much.
system, leave all bolts and nuts loose until all
system must be serviced. Look for
parts are properly aligned, then tighten, working
components that are bolted at each
from front to rear.
end, that way you know that piece
is replaceable. Some welded parts 5. When replacing a muffler and/or resonator,
can be cut and new ones bolted or the tailpipe(s) should also be replaced.
clamped, but the parts supplier you 6. When installing exhaust system parts,
deal with should be able to tell you make sure there is enough clearance between
If the parts he sells would fit or If the hot exhaust parts, and pipes and hoses that
you may need to replace other would be adversely affected by excessive heat.
connected components. Also make sure there is adequate clearance from
Most of the bolts on the exhaust the floor pan to avoid possible overheating of the
system will break when you try to floor.
unscrew them. Be prepared for this, 7. Exhaust pipe sealers should be used at all
many times an exhaust manifold slip joint connections except at the catalytic
has to be remove due the broken convertor. Do not use any sealers at the
exhaust stud that holds on the pipe. convertor as the sealer will not withstand
These bolts and studs become convertor temperatures.
brittle due to the extreme heat and
temperature changes they are
 ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL 3-87
Intermediate Pipe
1. Seal
2. Spring The intermediate pipe is the section between
3. 22 ibs.ft. (30 Nm) the catalytic converter and the muffler.
4. 18 Ibs.ft. (24 Nm)
5. Cross over

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

1. Raise and support the front of the vehicle.

2. Disconnect the intermediate pipe from the
catalytic converter. If the pipe is original you may
have to cut the pipe from the catalytic converter.
Before doing this it is advisable to check with the
supplier you will purchase the new pipe from to
FIG.91 Front exhaust pipe installation - 2.8L engine see where to cut or even if the part will fit.
3. At the muffler, remove the clamp and the
intermediate pipe.
4. To install, use a new clamp and nuts/bolts,
assembly the system, check the clearances and
tighten the connectors.
5. All clamps should be tight to about 25 ft.
lbs. (35 Nm). Do overtighten the clamps, if
pipes become dented they can leak also it makes
it almost impossible to remove if the pipe is
dented to much.

Catalytic Converter

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

1. Raise and support the front of the vehicle

on jackstands and place a support under the
catalytic converter.
2. Remove the clamp at the front of the
converter, then cut the pipe at the front of the
converter. If the pipe is original you may have to
cut the pipe from the catalytic converter. Before
doing this it is advisable to check with the

4. Replacement convertei
5. 26 Ibs.ft. (35 Nm)

FIG.95 Replacement converter installation

3-88 ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL
supplier you will purchase the new pipe from to 2. On the single pipe system, cut the exhaust
see where to cut or even if the part will fit. pipe near the front of the muffler. On the dual Tailpipe
3. Remove the converter-to-intermediate pipe system, remove the U-bolt clamp at the
pipe nuts/bolts. front of the muffler and disengage the muffler
4. Disconnect the converter-to-crossover from the exhaust pipe.
pipe or front pipe. REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
Before cutting the exhaust pipe,
6. To install, add sealer to the connecting measure the service muffler
surfaces, use new clamps and nuts/bolts, exhaust pipe extension and make
assemble the system, check the clearances and 1. Raise and support the vehicle on
certain to allow IV2 In. (38mm) for jackstands.
tighten all of the attachments.
the exhaust plpe-to-muffler 2. Remove the hanger clamps from the tail
7. All clamps should be tight to about 25 ft.
extension engagement.
lbs. (35 Nm). Do over tighten the clamps, if pipe.
pipes become dented they can leak also it makes 3. At the rear of the muffler, remove the ll- 3. Remove the tailpipe-to-muffler clamp.
it almost impossible to remove if the pipe is bolt clamp and disengage the muffler from the 4. Disengage the tailpipe from the muffler and
dented to much. tailpipe. remove the tailpipe.
4. Remove the tailpipe clamps and the 5. Inspect the tailpipe hangers and replace, if
tailpipe. necessary.
Muffler 5. Inspect the muffler and the tailpipe 6. To install, add sealer to the connecting
hangers; replace if necessary. surfaces, assemble the system, check the
The exhaust system pipes rearward of the
mufflers, must be replaced whenever a new 6. To install, add sealer to the connecting clearance and tighten the attachments.
muffler is installed. surfaces, assemble the system, check the 7. All clamps should be tight to about 25 ft
clearances and tighten all of the attachments. lbs. (35 Nm). Do overtighten the clamps, if
7. All clamps should be tight to about 25 ft. pipes become dented they can leak also it makes
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION lbs. (35 Nm). Do overtighten the clamps, if it almost impossible to remove if the pipe is
pipes become dented they can leak also it makes dented to much.
it almost impossible to remove if the pipe is
1. Raise and support the vehicle on dented to much.
jackstands.
ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL 3-89
3-90 ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL

FIG.99 Exhaust system configuration - 1986-92 2.5L station wagon

FIG.IOOa Exhaust system configuration with V6 engine before 1986 - station wagon
ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL 3-91
3-92 ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL

FIG.102 Exhaust system configuration with diesel engine - except station wagon
 ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL 3-93
Troubleshooting Basic Charging System Problems
Problem Cause Solution

Noisy alternator • Loose mountings • Tighten mounting bolts

• Loose drive pulley • Tighten pulley
• Worn bearings • Replace alternator
• Brush noise • Replace alternator
• Internal circuits shorted (High • Replace alternator
pitched whine)
Squeal when starting engine or • Glazed or loose belt • Replace or adjust belt
accelerating
Indicator light remains on or • Broken fan belt • Install belt
ammeter indicates discharge • Broken or disconnected wires • Repair or connect wiring
(engine running) • Internal alternator problems • Replace alternator
• Defective voltage regulator • Replace voltage regulator
Car light bulbs continually burn out— • Alternator/regulator overcharging • Replace voltage
battery needs water continually regulator/alternator
Car lights flare on acceleration • Battery low • Charge or replace battery
• Internal alternator/regulator • Replace alternator/regulator
problems
Low voltage output (alternator light • Loose or worn belt • Replace or adjust belt
flickers continually or ammeter • Dirty or corroded connections • Clean or replace connections
needle wanders) • Internal alternator/regulator • Replace alternator or regulator
problems

Troubleshooting Basic Starting System Problems

Problem Cause Solution

Starter motor rotates engine slowly • Battery charge low or battery • Charge or replace battery
defective
• Defective circuit between battery • Clean and tighten, or replace
and starter motor cables
• Low load current • Bench-test starter motor. Inspect
for worn brushes and weak
brush springs.
• High load current • Bench-test starter motor. Check
engine for friction, drag or coolant
in cylinders. Check ring gear-to-
pinion gear clearance.

Starter motor will not rotate engine • Battery charge low or battery • Charge or replace battery
defective
• Faulty solenoid • Check solenoid ground. Repair or
replace as necessary.
• Damage drive pinion gear or ring • Replace damaged gear(s)
gear
• Starter motor engagement weak • Bench-test starter motor
• Starter motor rotates slowly with • Inspect drive yoke pull-down and
high load current point gap, check for worn end
bushings, check ring gear clear¬
ance
• Engine seized • Repair engine
3-94 ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL
Troubleshooting Basic Starting System Problems
Problem Cause Solution

Starter motor drive will not engage • Defective contact point assembly • Repair or replace contact point
(solenoid known to be good) assembly
• Inadequate contact point assembly • Repair connection at ground screw
ground
• Defective hold-in coil • Replace field winding assembly

Starter motor drive will not • Starter motor loose on flywheel • Tighten mounting bolts
disengage housing
• Worn drive end busing • Replace bushing
• Damaged ring gear teeth • Replace ring gear or driveplate
• Drive yoke return spring broken or • Replace spring
missing
Starter motor drive disengages • Weak drive assembly thrust spring • Replace drive mechanism
prematurely • Hold-in coil defective • Replace field winding assembly
Low load current • Worn brushes • Replace brushes
• Weak brush springs • Replace springs

Troubleshooting Engine Mechanical Problems

Problem Cause Solution

External oil leaks • Fuel pump gasket broken or • Replace gasket

improperly seated
• Cylinder head cover RTV sealant • Replace sealant; inspect cylinder
broken or improperly seated head cover sealant flange and
cylinder head sealant surface for
distortion and cracks
• Oil filler cap leaking or missing • Replace cap
External oil leaks • Oil filter gasket broken or improp¬ • Replace oil filter
erly seated
• Oil pan side gasket broken, im- • Replace gasket or repair opening
properly seated or opening in in sealant; inspect oil pan gasket
RTV sealant flange for distortion
• Oil pan front oil seal broken or im- • Replace seal; inspect timing case
properly seated cover and oil pan seal flange for
distortion
• Oil pan rear oil seal broken or im- • Replace seal; inspect oil pan rear
properly seated oil seal flange; inspect rear main
bearing cap for cracks, plugged oil
return channels, or distortion in
seal groove
• Timing case cover oil seal broken • Replace seal
or improperly seated
• Excess oil pressure because of • Replace PCV valve
restricted PCV valve
• Oil pan drain plug loose or has • Repair as necessary and tighten
stripped threads
* • Rear oil gallery plug loose • Use appropriate sealant on gallery
plug and tighten
• Rear camshaft plug loose or • Seat camshaft plug or replace and
improperly seated seal, as necessary
• Distributor base gasket damaged • Replace gasket
 ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL 3-95
Troubleshooting Engine Mechanical Problems (cont)
Problem Cause Solution

Excessive oil consumption • Oil level too high • Drain oil to specified level
• Oil with wrong viscosity being used • Replace with specified oil
• PCV valve stuck closed • Replace PCV valve
• Valve stem oil deflectors (or seals) • Replace valve stem oil deflectors
are damaged, missing, or incor-
* / rect type
• Valve stems or valve guides worn • Measure stem-to-guide clearance
and repair as necessary
• Poorly fitted or missing valve cover • Replace valve cover
v baffles
• Piston rings broken or missing • Replace broken or missing rings
• Scuffed piston • Replace piston
• Incorrect piston ring gap • Measure ring gap, repair as
necessary
• Piston rings sticking or excessively • Measure ring side clearance,
loose in grooves repair as necessary
• Compression rings installed upside • Repair as necessary
down
• Cylinder walls worn, scored, or • Repair as necessary
glazed
• Piston ring gaps not properly • Repair as necessary
staggered
• Excessive main or connecting rod • Measure bearing clearance, repair
bearing clearance as necessary
No oil pressure • Low oil level • Add oil to correct level
• Oil pressure gauge, warning lamp • Replace oil pressure gauge or
or sending unit inaccurate warning lamp
• Oil pump malfunction • Replace oil pump
• Oil pressure relief valve sticking • Remove and inspect oil pressure
relief valve assembly
• Oil passages on pressure side of • Inspect oil passages for
pump obstructed obstruction
• Oil pickup screen or tube • Inspect oil pickup for obstruction
obstructed
• Loose oil inlet tube • Tighten or seal inlet tube

Low oil pressure • Low oil level • Add oil to correct level
• Inaccurate gauge, warning lamp or • Replace oil pressure gauge or
sending unit warning lamp
• Oil excessively thin because of • Drain and refill crankcase with
dilution, poor quality, or improper recommended oil
grade
• Excessive oil temperature • Correct cause of overheating en¬
gine
• Oil pressure relief spring weak or • Remove and inspect oil pressure
sticking relief valve assembly
• Oil inlet tube and screen assembly • Remove and inspect oil inlet tube
has restriction or air leak and screen assembly. (Fill inlet
tube with lacquer thinner to
locate leaks.)
• Excessive oil pump clearance • Measure clearances
• Excessive main, rod, or camshaft • Measure bearing clearances,
bearing clearance repair as necessary
3-96 ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL
Troubleshooting Engine Mechanical Problems (cont.)
Problem Cause Solution

High oil pressure • Improper oil viscosity • Drain and refill crankcase with cor¬
rect viscosity oil
• Oil pressure gauge or sending unit • Replace oil pressure gauge
inaccurate
• Oil pressure relief valve sticking • Remove and inspect oil pressure
closed relief valve assembly
Main bearing noise • Insufficient oil supply • Inspect for low oil level and low oil
pressure
• Main bearing clearance excessive • Measure main bearing clearance,
repair as necessary
• Bearing insert missing • Replace missing insert
• Crankshaft end play excessive • Measure end play, repair as
necessary
• Improperly tightened main bearing • Tighten bolts with specified torque
cap bolts
• Loose flywheel or drive plate • Tighten flywheel or drive plate
attaching bolts
• Loose or damaged vibration • Repair as necessary
damper
Connecting rod bearing noise • Insufficient oil supply • Inspect for low oil level and low oil
pressure
• Carbon build-up on piston • Remove carbon from piston crown
• Bearing clearance excessive or • Measure clearance, repair as
bearing missing necessary
• Crankshaft connecting rod journal • Measure journal dimensions,
out-of-round repair or replace as necessary
• Misaligned connecting rod or cap • Repair as necessary
• Connecting rod bolts tightened • Tighten bolts with specified torque
improperly
Piston noise • Piston-to-cylinder wall clearance • Measure clearance and examine
excessive (scuffed piston) piston
• Cylinder walls excessively • Measure cylinder wall dimensions,
tapered or out-of-round rebore cylinder
• Piston ring broken • Replace all rings on piston
• Loose or seized piston pin • Measure piston-to-pin clearance,
repair as necessary
• Connecting rods misaligned • Measure rod alignment, straighten
or replace
• Piston ring side clearance exces¬ • Measure ring side clearance,
sively loose or tight repair as necessary
• Carbon build-up on piston is • Remove carbon from piston
excessive
 ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL 3-97
Troubleshooting Engine Mechanical Problems (cont.)
Problem Cause Solution

Valve actuating component noise • Insufficient oil supply • Check for:

(a) Low oil level
(b) Low oil pressure
(c) Plugged push rods
(d) Wrong hydraulic tappets
(e) Restricted oil gallery
(f) Excessive tappet to bore clear¬
ance
• Push rods worn or bent • Replace worn or bent push rods
• Rocker arms or pivots worn • Replace worn rocker arms or
pivots
• Foreign objects or chips in • Clean tappets
hydraulic tappets
• Excessive tappet leak-down • Replace valve tappet
• Tappet face worn • Replace tappet; inspect corre¬
sponding cam lobe for wear
• Broken or cocked valve springs • Properly seat cocked springs;
replace broken springs
• Stem-to-guide clearance excessive • Measure stem-to-guide clearance,
repair as required
• Valve bent • Replace valve
♦ Loose rocker arms • Tighten bolts with specified torque
• Valve seat runout excessive • Regrind valve seat/valves
• Missing valve lock • Install valve lock
• Push rod rubbing or contacting cyl- • Remove cylinder head and
inder head remove obstruction in head
• Excessive engine oil (four-cylinder • Correct oil level
engine)
3-98 ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL
Troubleshooting the Cooling System
Problem Cause Solution

High temperature gauge indication— • Coolant level low • Replenish coolant

overheating • Fan belt loose • Adjust fan belt tension
• Radiator hose(s) collapsed • Replace hose(s)
• Radiator airflow blocked • Remove restriction (bug screen,
fog lamps, etc.)
• Faulty radiator cap • Replace radiator cap
• Ignition timing incorrect • Adjust ignition timing
• Idle speed low ♦ Adjust idle speed
• Air trapped in cooling system • Purge air
• Heavy traffic driving • Operate at fast idle in neutral inter¬
mittently to cool engine
• Incorrect cooling system compo¬ • Install proper component(s)
nents) installed
• Faulty thermostat • Replace thermostat
• Water pump shaft broken or • Replace water pump
impeller loose
• Radiator tubes clogged • Flush radiator
• Cooling system clogged • Flush system
• Casting flash in cooling passages • Repair or replace as necessary.
Flash may be visible by remov¬
ing cooling system components
or removing core plugs.
• Brakes dragging • Repair brakes
• Excessive engine friction • Repair engine
• Antifreeze concentration over 68% • Lower antifreeze concentration
percentage
• Missing air seals • Replace air seals
• Faulty gauge or sending unit • Repair or replace faulty
component
• Loss of coolant flow caused by • Repair or replace leaking compo-
leakage or foaming nent, replace coolant
• Viscous fan drive failed • Replace unit
Low temperature indication— • Thermostat stuck open • Replace thermostat
undercooling • Faulty gauge or sending unit • Repair or replace faulty
component
Coolant loss—boilover • Overfilled cooling system • Reduce coolant level to proper
specification
• Quick shutdown after hard (hot) • Allow engine to run at fast idle
run prior to shutdown
• Air in system resulting in occa¬ • Purge system
sional “burping” of coolant
• Insufficient antifreeze allowing • Add antifreeze to raise boiling
coolant boiling point to be too point
low
• Antifreeze deteriorated because of • Replace coolant
age or contamination
• Leaks due to loose hose clamps, • Pressure test system to locate
loose nuts, bolts, drain plugs, source of leak(s) then repair as
faulty hoses, or defective necessary
radiator
 ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL 3-99
Troubleshooting the Cooling System (cont.)
Problem Cause Solution
Coolant loss—boilover • Faulty head gasket • Replace head gasket
• Cracked head, manifold, or block • Replace as necessary
• Faulty radiator cap • Replace cap
Coolant entry into crankcase or • Faulty head gasket • Replace head gasket
cylinder(s) • Crack in head, manifold or block • Replace as necessary
Coolant recovery system inoperative • Coolant level low • Replenish coolant to FULL mark
• Leak in system • Pressure test to isolate leak and
repair as necessary
• Pressure cap not tight or seal • Repair as necessary
missing, or leaking
• Pressure cap defective • Replace cap
• Overflow tube clogged or leaking • Repair as necessary
• Recovery bottle vent restricted • Remove restriction
Noise • Fan contacting shroud • Reposition shroud and inspect
engine mounts
• Loose water pump impeller • Replace pump
• Glazed fan belt • Apply silicone or replace belt
• Loose fan belt • Adjust fan belt tension
• Rough surface on drive pulley • Replace pulley
• Water pump bearing worn • Remove belt to isolate. Replace
pump.
• Belt alignment • Check pulley alignment. Repair as
necessary.
No coolant flow through heater core • Restricted return inlet in water • Remove restriction
pump
• Heater hose collapsed or restricted • Remove restriction or replace hose
• Restricted heater core • Remove restriction or replace core
• Restricted outlet in thermostat • Remove flash or restriction
housing
• Intake manifold bypass hole in • Remove restriction
cylinder head restricted
• Faulty heater control valve • Replace valve
• Intake manifold coolant passage • Remove restriction or replace
restricted intake manifold

NOTE: Immediately after shutdown, the engine enters a condition known as heat soak. This is caused by the cooling
system being inoperative while engine temperature is still high. If coolant temperature rises above boiling point,
expansion and pressure may push some coolant out of the radiator overflow tube. If this does not occur frequently it
is considered normal.
3-100 ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL
Troubleshooting the Serpentine Drive Belt
Problem Cause Solution

Tension sheeting fabric failure • Grooved or backside idler pulley • Replace pulley(s) not conforming
(woven fabric on outside circum¬ diameters are less than mini¬ to specification
ference of belt has cracked or mum recommended
separated from body of belt) • Tension sheeting contacting (rub¬ • Correct rubbing condition
bing) stationary object
• Excessive heat causing woven • Replace belt
fabric to age
• Tension sheeting splice has frac¬ • Replace belt
tured
Noise (objectional squeal, squeak, • Belt slippage • Adjust belt
or rumble is heard or felt while • Bearing noise • Locate and repair
drive belt is in operation) • Belt misalignment • Align belt/pulley(s)
• Belt-to-pulley mismatch • Install correct belt
• Driven component inducing • Locate defective driven component
vibration and repair
• System resonant frequency • Vary belt tension within specifica¬
inducing vibration tions. Replace belt.
Rib chunking (one or more ribs has • Foreign objects imbedded in pulley • Remove foreign objects from pul¬
separated from belt body) grooves ley grooves
• Installation damage • Replace belt
• Drive loads in excess of design • Adjust belt tension
/ specifications
• Insufficient internal belt adhesion • Replace belt
Rib or belt wear (belt ribs contact • Pulley(s) misaligned • Align pulley(s)
bottom of pulley grooves) • Mismatch of belt and pulley groove • Replace belt
widths
• Abrasive environment • Replace belt
• Rusted pulley(s) • Clean rust from pulley(s)
• Sharp or jagged pulley groove tips • Replace pulley
• Rubber deteriorated • Replace belt
Longitudinal belt cracking (cracks • Belt has mistracked from pulley • Replace belt
between two ribs) groove
• Pulley groove tip has worn away • Replace belt
rubber-to-tensile member
Belt slips • Belt slipping because of insufficient • Adjust tension
tension
• Belt or pulley subjected to • Replace belt and clean pulleys
substance (belt dressing, oil,
ethylene glycol) that has re¬
duced friction
• Driven component bearing failure • Replace faulty component bearing
• Belt glazed and hardened from • Replace belt
heat and excessive slippage
“Groove jumping” (belt does not • Insufficient belt tension • Adjust belt tension
maintain correct position on • Pulley(s) not within design toler¬ • Replace pulley(s)
pulley, or turns over and/or runs ance
off pulleys) • Foreign object(s) in grooves • Remove foreign objects from
grooves
 ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL 3-101
Troubleshooting the Serpentine Drive Belt (cont.)
Problem Cause Solution

"Groove jumping" (belt does not • Excessive belt speed • Avoid excessive engine accelera¬
maintain correct position on tion
pulley, or turns over and/or runs • Pulley misalignment • Align pulley(s)
off pulleys) • Belt-to-pulley profile mismatched • Install correct belt
• Belt cordline is distorted • Replace belt
Belt broken (Note: identify and cor¬ • Excessive tension • Replace belt and adjust tension to
rect problem before replacement specification
belt is installed) • Tensile members damaged during • Replace belt
belt installation
• Belt turnover • Replace belt
• Severe pulley misalignment • Align pulley(s)
• Bracket, pulley, or bearing failure • Replace defective component and
belt
Cord edge failure (tensile member • Excessive tension • Adjust belt tension
exposed at edges of belt or • Drive pulley misalignment • Align pulley
separated from belt body) • Belt contacting stationary object • Correct as necessary
• Pulley irregularities • Replace pulley
• Improper pulley construction • Replace pulley
• Insufficient adhesion between ten¬ • Replace belt and adjust tension to
sile member and rubber matrix specifications
Sporadic rib cracking (multiple • Ribbed pulley(s) diameter less • Replace pulley(s)
cracks in belt ribs at random than minimum specification
intervals) • Backside bend flat pulley(s) diam¬ • Replace pulley(s)
eter less than minimum
• Excessive heat condition causing • Correct heat condition as neces¬
rubber to harden sary
• Excessive belt thickness • Replace belt
• Belt overcured • Replace belt
• Excessive tension • Adjust belt tension

ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS
Component U.S. Metric
Camshaft
2.5L (VIN R) engine
End Play: 0.0015-0.005 in. 0.0381-0.127 mm
Bearing Diameter: 1.869 in. 47.4726 mm
Bearing Clearance: 0.0007-0.0027 in. 0.01778-0.0685 mm
Lobe Lift (1982-88)
Intake: 0.398 in. 10.3124 mm
Exhaust: 0.398 in. 10.3124 mm
Lobe Lift (1989)
Intake: 0.232 in. 5.8882 mm
Exhaust: 0.232 in. 5.8882 mm
Lobe Lift (1990-92)
Intake: 0.248 in. 6.302 mm
Exhaust: 0.248 in. 6.302 mm
2.8L (VIN W) engine
End Play: NA NA
Bearing Diameter: 1.8678-1.8815 in. 47.44-47.79 mm
Bearing Clearance: 0.001-0.004 in. 0.026-0.101 mm
Lobe Lift
Intake: 0.2626 in. 6.67 mm
Exhaust: 0.2732 in. 6.94 mm
 3-102 ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL
ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS
Component U.S. Metric
2.8L (VIN X) engine
End Play: NA NA
Bearing Diameter: 1.8876-1.8996 in. 47.44-47.49 mm
Bearing Clearance: 0.001-0.004 in. 0.026-0.101 mm
Lobe Lift
Intake: 0.2348 in. 5.87 mm
Exhaust: 0.2668 in. 6.67 mm
2.8L (VIN Z) engine
End Play: NA NA
Bearing Diameter: 1.8876-1.8996 in. 47.44-47.49 mm
Bearing Clearance: 0.001-0.004 in. 0.026-0.101 mm
Lobe Lift
Intake: 0.2348 in. 5.87 mm
Exhaust: 0.2668 in. 6.67 mm
3.0L (VIN E) engine
End Play: NA NA
Bearing Diameter: 1.785-1.786 in. 45.339-45.364 mm
Bearing Clearance
Number 1: 0.0005-0.0025 in. 0.0127-0.0635 mm
Numbers 2, 3, 4: 0.0005-0.0035 in. 0.0127-0.0889 mm
3.1L (VIN T) engine
End Play: NA NA
Bearing Diameter: 1.8678-1.8815 in. 47.44-47.79 mm
Bearing Clearance: 0.001-0.004 in. 0.026-0.101 mm
Lobe Lift
Intake: 0.2626 in. 6.67 mm
Exhaust: 0.2732 in. 6.94 mm
3.3L (VIN N) engine
End Play: NA NA
Bearing Diameter: 1.7850-1.7860 in. 45.339-45.364 mm
Bearing Clearance: 0.0005-0.0035 in. 0.013-0.089 mm
Lobe Lift
Intake: 0.250 in. 6.43 mm
Exhaust: 0.255 in. 6.48 mm
3.8L (VIN 3) engine
End Play: NA NA
Bearing Diameter: 1.785-1.786 in. 45.339-45.364 mm
Bearing Clearance
Number 1: 0.0005-0.0025 in. 0.0127-0.0635 mm
Numbers 2, 3, 4: 0.0005-0.0035 in. 0.0127-0.0889 mm
4.3L (VIN T) engine
End Clearance: 0.0008-0.0228 0.02-0.58 mm
Bearing Diameter
Cam sprocket: 2.035-2.036 in. 51.707-51.727 mm
Number 2: 2.015-2.016 in. 51.219-51.199 mm
Number 3: 1.996-1.995 in. 50.71-50.60 mm
Number 4: 1.976-1.975 in. 50.20-50.18 mm
Bearing Clearance: 0.0020-0.0043 in. 0.05-0.t1 mm
Lobe Lift
Intake: 0.252 in. 6.40 mm
Exhaust: 0.279 in. 7.09 mm
 ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL 3-103
ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS
Component u.s. Metric
Valves
2.5L (VIN R) engine
Face Angle: 45° 45°
Seat Angle: 46° 46°
Seat Runout: 0.002 in. 0.05 mm
Seat Width
Intake: 0.035-0.075 in. 0.889-1.905 mm
Exhaust (1982-89): 0.058-0.097 in. 1.473- 2.642 mm
Exhaust (1990-92): 0.058-0.105 in. 1.473- 2.667 mm
Stem Clearance
Intake: 0.001-0.0028 in. 0.028-0.071 mm
Exhaust (1982-89): 0.0013-0.0041 in. 0.033-0.1040 mm
Exhaust (1990-92): 0.0013-0.0041 in. 0.033-0.1040 mm
2.8L (VIN W) engine
Face Angle: 45° 45°
Seat Angle: 46° 46°
Seat Runout: 0.001 in. 0.25 mm
Seat Width
Intake: 0.061-0.073 in. 1.550-1.850 mm
Exhaust: 0.067-0.079 in. 1.70-2.0 mm
Stem Clearance
Intake: 0.001-0.0027 in. 0.026-0.068 mm
Exhaust: 0.001-0.0027 in. 0.026-0.068 mm
2.8L (VIN X) engine
Face Angle: 45° 45°
Seat Angle: 46° 46°
Seat Runout: 0.002 in. 0.05 mm
Seat Width
Intake: 0.049-0.059 in. 1.250-1.50 mm
Exhaust: 0.049-0.059 in. 1.250-1.50 mm
Stem Clearance
Intake: 0.001-0.0027 in. 0.026-0.068 mm
Exhaust: 0.001-0.0027 in. 0.026-0.068 mm
2.8L (VIN Z) engine
Face Angle: 45° 45°
Seat Angle: 46° 46°
Seat Runout: 0.002 in. 0.05 mm
Seat Width
Intake: 0.049-0.059 in. 1.250-1.50 mm
Exhaust: 0.049-0.059 in. 1.250-1.50 mm
Stem Clearance
Intake: 0.001-0.0027 in. 0.026-0.068 mm
Exhaust: 0.001-0.0027 in. 0.026-0.068 mm
3.0L (VIN E) engine
Face Angle: 45° 45°
Seat Angle: 46° 46°
Seat Runout: 0.002 in. 0.05 mm
Seat Diameter
Intake: 0.3412-0.3401 in. 8.666- 8.638 mm
Exhaust: 0.3412-0.3405 in. 8.666- 8.649 mm
Stem Clearance
Intake: 0.0015-0.0035 in. 0.038-0.089 mm
Exhaust: 0.0015-0.0032 in. 0.038-0.081 mm
3.1 L (VIN T) engine
Face Angle: 45° 45°
Seat Angle: 46° 46°
Seat Runout: 0.001 in. 0.25 mm
Seat Width
0.061-0.073 in. 1.550-1.850 mm
Intake:
Exhaust: 0.067-0.079 in. 1.70-2.0 mm
Stem Clearance
0.001-0.0027 in. 0.026-0.068 mm
Intake:
0.001-0.0027 in. 0.026-0.068 mm
Exhaust:
3-104 ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL
ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS
Component u.s. Metric
3.3L (VIN N) engine
Face Angle: 45° 45
Seat Angle: 45° 45°
Seat Runout: 0.002 in. 0.05 mm
Seat Width
Intake: 0.060-0.080 in. 1.530-2.030 mm
Exhaust: 0.090-0.110 in. 2.29-2.79 mm
Stem Clearance
Intake: 0.0015-0.0035 in. 0.038-0.089 mm
Exhaust: 0.0015-0.0032 in. 0.038-0.081 mm
3.8L (VIN 3) engine ' . v
Face Angle: 45° 45°
Seat Angle: 46° 46°
Seat Runout: 0.002 in. 0.05 mm
Seat Diameter
Intake: 0.3412-0.3401 in. 8.666-8.638 mm
Exhaust: 0.3412-0.3405 in. 8.666-8.649 mm
Stem Clearance
Intake: 0.0015-0.0035 in. 0.038-0.089 mm
Exhaust: 0.0015-0.0032 in. 0.038-0.081 mm
4.3L (VIN T) engine
Face Angle
Intake: 44° 44°
Exhaust: 30° 30°
Seat Angle
Intake: 45° 45°
Exhaust: 31° 31°
Overall Length
Intake: 5.120 in. 130.048 mm
Exhaust: 5.029 in. 127.7366 mm
Seat Runout
Intake: 0.004 in. 0.10 mm
Exhaust: 0.002 in. 0.05 mm
Head Diameter
Internal EGR
Intake: 1.875 in. 47.01 mm
Exhaust: 1.622 in. 41.20 mm
External EGR
Intake: 1.750 in. 44.45 mm
Exhaust: 1.500 in. 38.20 mm
Stem Diameter
Intake: 0.3425-0.3432 in. 8.6995-8.7376 mm
Exhaust: 0.3420-0.3428 in. 8.6870-8.7070 mm
Clearance in guide
Intake: 0.0010-0.0027 in. 0.026-0.068 mm
Exhaust: 0.0015-0.0032 in. 0.038-0.081 mm
Seat Width
Intake (cast): 0.0037-0.075 in. 0.94-1.9 mm
Intake (aluminum): 0.0032-0.077 in. 0.81-1.97 mm
Exhaust: 0.0046-0.0840 in. 1.17-2.14 mm
Valve Spring
2.5L (VIN R) engine
Free Length: 2.01 in. 51 mm
Installed Height: 1.68 in. 42.64 mm
2.8L (VIN W) engine
Free Length: 1.91 in. 48.5 mm
Installed Height: 1.5748 in. 40.0 mm
2.8L (VIN X) engine
Free Length: 1.91 in. 48.5 mm
2.8L (VIN Z) engine
Free Length: 1.91 in. 48.5 mm
 ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL 3-105
ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS
Component U.S. Metric
3.1 L (VIN T) engine
Free Length: 1.91 in. 48.5 mm
Installed Height: 1.5748 in. 40.0 mm
3.3L (VIN N) engine
Free Length: 1.98 in. 50.32 mm
Installed Height: 1.69-1.720 in. 42.93-44.45 mm
4.3L (VIN T) engine
Free Length: 2.09 in. 53.09 mm
Spring Load
2.5L (VIN R) engine
Closed: 75 ft.lbs. @ 1.68 in. 332 Nm @ 42.64 mm
Open: 173 ft.lbs. @ 1.24 in. 770 Nm @ 31.46 mm
2.8L (VIN W) engine
Closed: 90 ft.lbs. @ 1.70 in. 400 Nm @ 43.0 mm
Open: 215 ft.lbs. @ 1.29 in. 956 Nm @ 33.0 mm
2.8L (VIN X) engine
Closed: 88lbs. @ 1.70 in. 40 Kg @ 40.0 mm
Open: 195 lbs. @ 1.57 in. 88 Kg @ 30.0 mm
2.8L (VIN Z) engine -
Closed: 88lbs. @ 1.70 in. 40 Kg @ 40.0 mm
Open: 195 lbs. @ 1.57 in. 88 Kg @ 30.0 mm
3.0L (VIN E) engine
Closed: 93 ft.lbs. @ 1.727 in. 413 Nm @ 43.9 mm
Open: 220 ft.lbs. @ 1.340 in. 978 Nm @ 34.0 mm
3.1 L (VIN T) engine
Closed: 90 ft.lbs. @ 1.701 in. 400 Nm @ 43.0 mm
Open: 215 ft.lbs. @ 1.291 in. 956 Nm @ 33.0 mm
3.3L (VIN N) engine
Closed: 80 ft.lbs. @ 1.750 in. 356 Nm @ 43.7 mm
Open: 210 ft.lbs. @ 1.315 in. 935 Nm @ 33.4 mm
3.8L (VIN 3) engine
Closed: 64 ft.lbs. @ 1.727 in. 285 Nm @ 43.9 mm
Open: 182 ft.lbs. @ 1.340 in. 810 Nm @ 34.0 mm
4.3L (VIN T) engine
Closed: 90 ft.lbs. @ 1.670 in. 400 Nm @ 42.4 mm
Open: 208 ft.lbs. @ 1.220 in. 935 Nm @ 31.0 mm
Lifter
2.5L (VIN R) engine
Body Diameter: 0.841-0.843 in. 21.3668-21.4046 mm
Bore Diameter: 0.844-0.845 in. 21.425-21.450 mm
Bore Clearance: 0.002-0.0006 in. 0.06-0.016 mm
Plunger Travel: 0.022
in. 5.3 mm
2.8L (VIN W) engine NA NA
2.8L (VIN X) engine NA NA
2.8L (VIN Z) engine NA NA
3.0L (VIN E) engine
Body Diameter: 0.820-0.8427 in. 21.3668-21.4046 mm
Bore Clearance: 0.008-0.0025 in. 0.0203-0.0635 mm
3.1 L (VIN T) engine NA NA
3.3L (VIN N) engine NA NA
3.8L (VIN 3) engine
Body Diameter: 0.820-0.8427 in. 21.3668-21.4046 mm
Bore Clearance: 0.008-0.0025 in. 0.0203-0.0635 mm
4.3L (VIN T) engine
Body Diameter: 0.920-0.922 in. 23.39-23.41 mm
Bore Clearance: 0.0003-0.002 in. 0.009-0.054 mm
Length: 2.706 in. 68.73 mm
3-106 ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL
ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS
Component u.s. Metric
Oil Pump
2.5L (VIN R) engine
Gear Pocket Depth: 0.514-0.516 in. 13.05-13.10 mm
Gear Thickness: 0.511-0.512 in. 12.973-12.998 mm
2.8L (VIN W) engine NA NA
2.8L (VIN X) engine
Gear Pocket Depth: 1.195-1.198 in. 30.36-30.44 mm
Gear Thickness: 1.503-1.506 in. 38.18-38.25 mm
Gear Length: 1.200-1.199 in. 30.48-30.45 mm
Gear Diameter: 1.498-1.500 in. 38.05-38.10 mm
Side Clearance: 0.003-0.004 in. 0.08-0.10 mm
End Clearance: 0.002-0.005 in. 0.05-0.13 mm
Valve to Bore: 0.0015-0.0035 in. 0.089-0.038 mm
2.8L (VIN Z) engine
Gear Pocket Depth: 1.195-1.198 in. 30.36-30.44 mm
Gear Thickness: 1.503-1.506 in. 38.18-38.25 mm
Gear Length: 1.200-1.199 in. 30.48-30.45 mm
Gear Diameter: 1.498-1.500 in. 38.05-38.10 mm
Side Clearance: 0.003-0.004 in. 0.08-0.10 mm
End Clearance: 0.002-0.005 in. 0.05-0.13 mm
Valve to Bore: 0.0015-0.0035 in. 0.089-0.038 mm
3.0L (VIN E) engine NA NA
3.1 L (VIN T) engine NA NA
3.3L (VIN N) engine
Gear Pocket Depth: 0.461-0.4625 in. 11.71-11.75 mm
Gear Diameter: 3.508-3.512 in. 89.10-89.20 mm
Inner Gear
Tip Clearance: 0.006 in. 0.152 mm
Outer Gear
End Clearance: 0.001-00035 in. 0.025-0.089 mm
Diameter Clearance: 0.08-0.015 in. 0.203-0.381 mm
Valve to bore: 0.0015-0.0035 in. 0.089-0.038 mm
3.8L (VIN 3) engine NA NA
4.3L (VIN T) engine
Gear Pocket Depth: 1.505-1.5090 in. 38.1-38.125 mm
Gear Diameter: 1.534-1.539 in. 38.960-39.096 mm
Gear
Length: 1.505-1.5095 in. 38.29-38.341 mm
Diameter: 1.529-1.531 in. 38.887-38.836 mm
Side Clearance: 0.0015-0.0045 in. 0.04-0.12 mm
Valve to bore: 0.0025-0.0050 in. 0.063-0.127 mm
Cylinder Bore
2.5L (VIN R) engine
Diameter: 4.0 in. 101.6 mm
Out of Round: 0.001 in. 0.02 mm
Taper: 0.005 in. 0.13 mm
2.8L (VIN W) engine
Diameter: 3.5046-3.5033 in. 89.016-89-034 mm
Out of Round: 0.0005 in. 0.13 mm
Taper: 0.0005 in. 0.13 mm
2.8L (VIN X) engine
Diameter: 3.504-3.5067 in. 88.90-89.07 mm
Out of Round: 0.001 in. 0.02 mm
Taper: 0.001 in. 0.02 mm
2.8L (VIN Z) engine
Diameter: 3.504-3.5067 in. 88.90-89.07 mm
Out of Round: 0.001in. 0.02 mm
Taper: 0.001in. 0.02 mm
 ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL 3-107
ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS
Component U.S. Metric
3.0L (VIN E) engine
Diameter: 3.8 in. 96.52 mm
Out of Round: 0.001 in. 0.02mm
Taper: 0.001 in. 0.02mm
3.1 L (VIN T) engine
Diameter: 3.5046-3.5033 in. 89.016-89-034 mm
Out of Round: • 0.0005 in. 0.13 mm
Taper: 0.0005 in. 0.13 mm
3.3L (VIN N) engine
Diameter: 3.7 in. 93.9 mm
Out of Round: 0.0004 in. 0.10 mm
Taper: 0.0005 in. 0.13 mm
3.8L (VIN 3) engine
Diameter: 3.8 in. 96.52 mm
Out of Round: 0.001 in. 0.02mm
Taper: 0.001 in. 0.02mm
4.3L (VIN T) engine
Diameter: 4.057 in. 103.05 mm
Out of Round: 0.001 in. 0.025 mm
Taper: 0.001 in. 0.025 mm
Piston
2.5L (VIN R) engine
Clearance: 0.0014-0.0022 in. 0.036-0.056 mm
2.8L (VIN W) engine
Clearance: 0.00093-0.00222 in. 0.0235-0.0565 mm
2.8L (VIN X) engine
Clearance: 0.0017-0.003 in. 0.043-0.069 mm
2.8L (VIN Z) engine
Clearance: 0.0017-0.003 in. 0.043-0.069 mm
3.0L (VIN T) engine
Clearance: 0.0008-0.0020 in. 0.020-0.051 mm
3.1 L (VIN T) engine
Clearance: 0.0022-0.0028 in. 0.057-0.072 mm
3.3L (VIN N) engine
Clearance: 0.0004-0.0022 in. 0.010-0.056 mm
3.8L (VIN 3) engine
Clearance: 0.0008-0.0020 in. 0.020-0.051 mm
4.3L (VIN T) engine
Clearance: 0.0035-0.0045 in. 0.088-0.114 mm
Piston Rings
2.5L (VIN R) engine
Gap (top): 0.01-0.02 in. 0.30-0.50 mm
Gap (second): 0.01-0.02 in. 0.30-0.50 mm
Gap (oil): 0.02-0.06 in. 0.50-1.50 mm
Side Clearance
Top: 0.002-0.003 in. 0.05-0.08 mm
Second: 0.001-0.003 in. 0.03-0.08 mm
Oil Control: 0.015-0.055 in. 0.38-1.40 mm
2.8L (VIN W) engine
Gap (top): 0.01-0.02 in. 0.30-0.50 mm
Gap (second): 0.01-0.02 in. 0.30-0.50 mm
Gap (oil): 0.02-0.55 in. 0.50-1.40 mm
Side Clearance
Top: 0.001-0.003 in. 0.03-0.08 mm
Second: 0.001-0.003 in. 0.03-0.08 mm
Oil Control: 0.008 in. 0.20 mm
3-108 ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL
ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS
Component u.s. Metric
2.8L (VIN X) engine
Gap (top): 0.01-0.02 in. 0.30-0.50 mm
Gap (second): 0.02-0.55 in. 0.50-1.40 mm
Gap (oil): NA NA
Side Clearance
Top: 0.001-0.003 in. 0.03-0.08 mm
Second: 0.001-0.003 in. 0.03-0.08 mm
Oil Control: 0.008 in. 0.20 mm
2.8L (VIN Z) engine
Gap (top): 0.01-0.02 in. 0.30-0.50 mm
Gap (second): 0.02-0.55 in. 0.50-1.40 mm
Gap (oil): NA NA
Side Clearance
Top: 0.001-0.003 in. 0.03-0.08 mm
Second: 0.001-0.003 in. 0.03-0.08 mm
Oil Control: 0.008 in. 0.20 mm
3.0L (VIN E) engine
Gap (top): 0.01-0.020 in. 0.254-0.508 mm
Gap (second): 0.01-0.020 in. 0.254-0.508 mm
Gap (oil): 0.015-0.55 in. 0.381-0.397 mm
Groove Width
Top: 0.0770-0.0780 in. 1.955-1.981 mm
Second: 0.0770-0.0780 in. 1.955-1.981 mm
Oil Control: 0.183-0.189 in. 4.684-4.80 mm
Ring Depth
Top: 0.184-0.194 in. 4.674-4.928 mm
Second: 0.186-0.194 in. 4.724-4.928 mm
Oil Control: 0.188-0.196 in. 4.7752-4.978 mm
3.1 L (VIN T) engine
Gap (top): 0.01-0.02 in. 0.30-0.50 mm
Gap (second): 0.01-0.02 in. 0.30-0.50 mm
Gap (oil): 0.01-0.50 in. 0.25-1.27 mm
Side Clearance
Top: 0.002-0.0035 in. 0.05-0.09 mm
Second: 0.002-0.0035 in. 0.05-0.09 mm
Oil Control: 0.008 in. 0.20 mm
3.3L (VIN N) engine
Gap (top): 0.01-0.025 in. 0.30-0.63 mm
Gap (second): 0.01-0.025 in. 0.30-0.63 mm
Gap (oil): 0.01-0.40 in. 0.25-0.40 mm
Side Clearance
Top: 0.0013-0.0031 in. 0.033-0.079 mm
Second: 0.0013-0.0031 in. 0.033-0.079 mm
Oil Control: 0.0011-0.0081 in. 0.28-0.206 mm
Ring Width
Top: 0.0581-0.0589 in. 1.476-1.497 mm
Second: 0.0581-0.0589 in. 1.476-1.497 mm
Oil Control: 0.1122-0.1182 in. 2.850-3.002 mm
3.8L (VIN 3) engine
Gap (top): 0.01-0.020 in. 0.254-0.508 mm
Gap (second): 0.01-0.020 in. 0.254-0.508 mm
Gap (oil): 0.015-0.55 in. 0.381-0.397 mm
Groove Width
Top: 0.0770-0.0780 in. 1.955-1.981 mm
Second: 0.0770-0.0780 in. 1.955-1.981 mm
Oil Control: 0.183-0.189 in. 4.684-4.80 mm
Ring Depth
Top: 0.184-0.194 in. 4.674-4.928 mm
Second: 0.186-0.194 in. 4.724-4.928 mm
Oil Control: 0.188-0.196 in. 4.7752-4.978 mm
 ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL 3-109
ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS
Component U.S. Metric
4.3L (VIN T) engine
Gap (top): 0.019-0.027 in. 0.4826-0.6858 mm
Gap (second): 0.013-0.021 in. 0.3302-0.5334 mm
Gap (oil): 0.015-0.55 in. 0.381-0.397 mm
Side Clearance
Top: 0.005-0.007 in. 0.127-0.178 mm
Second: 0.003-0005 in. 0.077-0.134 mm
Oil Control: * 0.001-0.005 in. 0.025-0.127 mm
Ring Width: 0.078-0.077 in. 1.958-1.981 mm
Piston Pins
2.5L (VIN R) engine
Diameter: 0.927-0.928 in. 23.546-23.561 mm
Fit in piston: 0.0003-0.0005 in. 0.008-0.013 mm
Fit in rod: press fit press fit
2.8L (VIN W) engine
Diameter: 0.9052-0.9056 in. 22.937-23.001 mm
Clearance: 0.00025-0.0037 in. 0.0065-0.091 mm
Fit in rod: 0.00078-0.0021 in. 0.020-0.0515 mm
2.8L (VIN X) engine
Diameter: 0.9052-0.9056 in. 22.937-23.001 mm
Fit in piston: 0.00026-0.0037 in. 0.0065-0.091 mm
Fit in rod: 0.00078-0.0021 in. 0.020-0.0515 mm
2.8L (VIN Z) engine
Diameter: 0.9052-0.9056 in. 22.937-23.001 mm
Fit in piston: 0.00026-0.0037 in. 0.0065-0.091 mm
Fit in rod: 0.00078-0.0021 in. 0.020-0.0515 mm
3.0L (VIN E) engine
Diameter: 0.9391-0.9394 in. 23.853-23.860 mm
Fit in piston: 0.0004-0.0007 in. 0.0100-0.0177 mm
Fit in rod: 0.00078^0.0017 in. 0.017-0.0432 mm
Pin off-set: 0.040 in. thrust side 1.016 thrust side mm
3.1 L (VIN T) engine
Diameter: 0.9052-0.9054 in. 22.937-22.964 mm
Clearance: 0.0004-0.0008 in. 0.0096-0.0215 mm
Fit in rod: 0.00078-0.0021 in. 0.020-0.0515 mm
3.3L (VIN N) engine
Diameter: 0.9053-0.9055 in. 22.995-23.000 mm
Fit in piston: 0.0004-0.0008 in. 0.0096-0.0215 mm
Fit in rod: 0.0007-0.0017 in. 0.018-0.043 mm
3.8L (VIN 3) engine
Diameter: 0.9391-0.9394 in. 23.853-23.860 mm
Fit in piston: 0.0004-0.0007 in. 0.0100-0.0177 mm
Fit in rod: 0.00078-0.0017 in. 0.017-0.0432 mm
Pin Off-set: 0.040 in. thrust side 1.016 mm thrust side
4.3L (VIN T) engine
Diameter: 1.0949-1.0952 in. 27.81-27.82 mm
Fit in piston: < 0.0003-0.0005 in. 0.0076-0.0127 mm
Fit in rod: 0.0003-0.0013 in. 0.076-0.0330 mm
3-110 ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL
ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS
Component u.s. Metric

Crankshaft
2.5L (VIN R) engine
Main Journal
Diameter: 2.3 in. 58.399-58.400 mm
Taper: ( 0.0005 in. 0.013 mm
Out of Round: 0.0005 in. 0.013 mm
Clearance: 0.0005-0.0022 in. 0.013-0.056 mm
End-play: 0.0051-0.010 in. 0.13-0.26 mm
Crankpin
Diameter: 2.0 in. 50.708-50.805 mm
Taper: 0.0005 in. 0.013 mm
Out of Round: 0.0005 in. 0.013 mm
Clearance
Bearing: 0.0005-0.003 in. 0.013-0.07 mm
Side: 0.006-0.024in. 0.015-0.06 mm
2.8L (VIN W) engine
Main Journal
Diameter: 2.6473-2.6483 in. 67.241-67.265 mm
Taper: 0.0002 in. 0.005 mm
Out of Round: 0.0002 in. 0.005 mm
Clearance: 0.0012-0.0027 in. 0.032-0.069 mm
Thrust: . • t 0.0016-0.0031 in. 0.042-0.079 mm
End-play: 0.0024-0.0083 in. 0.06-0.21 mm
Crankpin
Diameter: 1.9994-1.9983 in. 50.784-50.758 mm
Taper: 0.0002 in. 0.005 mm
Out of Round: 0.0002 in. 0.005 mm
Clearance
Bearing: 0.0015-0.0036 in. 0.038-0.083 mm
Side: 0.014-0.027in. 0.360-0.680 mm
2.8L (VIN X) engine
Main Journal
Diameter: 2.5850-2.5860 in. 63.340-63.364 mm
Taper: 0.0002 in. 0.005 mm
Out of Round: 0.0002 in. 0.005 mm
Clearance: 0.002-0.003 in. 0.05-0.08 mm
End-play: 0.002-0.007 in. 0.05-0.18 mm
Crankpin
Diameter: 2.0713-2.0715 in. 50.784-50.758 mm
Taper: 0.0002 in. 0.005 mm
Out of Round: 0.0002 in. 0.005 mm
Clearance
Bearing: 0.0014-0.0037 in. 0.040-0.083 mm
Side: 0.0065-0.018 in. 0.160-0.440 mm
2.8L (VIN Z) engine
Main Journal
Diameter: 2.5850-2.5860 in. 63.340-63.364 mm
Taper: 0.0002 in. 0.005 mm
Out of Round: 0.0002 in. 0.005 mm
Clearance: 0.002-0.003 in. 0.05-0.08 mm
End-play: 0.002-0.007 in. 0.05-0.18 mm
Crankpin
Diameter: 2.0713-2.0715 in. 50.784-50.758 mm
Taper: 0.0002 in. 0.005 mm
Out of Round: 0.0002 in. 0.005 mm
Clearance
Bearing: 0.0014-0.0037 in. 0.040-0.083 mm
Side: 0.0065-0.018 in. 0.160-0.440 mm
 ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL 3-111
ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS
Component U.S. Metric
3.0L (VIN E) engine
Main Journal
Diameter: 2.4995 in. 63.4873 mm
Taper: 0.0002 in. 0.005 mm
Out of Round: 0.0002 in. 0.005 mm
Clearance: 0.003-0.0018 in. 0.08-0.0457 mm
End-play: 0.003-0.0011 in. 0.08-0.2794 mm
Length
Number 1, 3, 4: 0.864 in. 21.9456 mm
Number 2: 1.057 in. 26.8478 mm
Crankpin
Diameter: 2.2487-2.2495 in. 57.1169-57.1373 mm
Taper: 0.0002 in. 0.005 mm
Out of Round: 0.0002 in. 0.005 mm
Clearance: 0.0005-0.0026 in. 0.0127-0.066 mm
End-play: 0.003-0.015 in. 0.0762-0.381 mm
Length: 0.654 in. 16.611 mm
3.1 L (VIN T) engine
Main Journal
Diameter: 2.6473-2.6483 in. 67.241-67.265 mm
Taper: 0.0003 in. 0.008 mm
Out of Round: 0.0002 in. 0.005 mm
Clearance: 0.0012-0.0027 in. 0.032-0.069 mm
Thrust: 0.0012-0.0027 in. 0.032-0.069 mm
End-play: 0.0024-0.0083 in. 0.06-0.21 mm
Crankpin
Diameter: 1.9994-1.9983 in. 50.784-50.758 mm
Taper: 0.0003 in. 0.008 mm
Out of Round: 0.0002 in. 0.005 mm
Clearance
Bearing: 0.0013-0.0031 in. 0.032-0.079 mm
Side: 0.014-0.027in. 0.360-0.680 mm
3.3L (VIN N) engine
Main Journal
Diameter: 2.4988-2.4998 in. 63.47-63.495 mm
Taper: 0.0003 in. 0.008 mm
Out of Round: 0.0003 in. 0.008 mm
Clearance: 0.0003-0.0018 in. 0.008-0.045 mm
End-play: 0.003-0.0011 in. 0.076-0.279 mm
Crankpin
Diameter: 2.2487-2.2499 in. 57.117-57.147 mm
Taper: 0.0003 in. 0.008 mm
Out of Round: 0.0003 in. 0.008 mm
Clearance
Bearing: 0.0003-0.0026 in. 0.0076-0.071 mm
Side: 0.003-0.015 in. 0.076-0.381 mm
3.8L (VIN 3) engine
Main Journal
Diameter: 2.4995 in. 63.4873 mm
Taper: 0.0002 in. 0.005 mm
Out of Round: 0.0002 in. 0.005 mm
Clearance: 0.003-0.0018 in. 0.08-0.0457 mm
End-play: 0.003-0.0011 in. 0.08-0.2794 mm
Length
Number 1, 3, 4: 0.864 in. 21.9456 mm
Number 2: 1.057 in. 26.8478 mm
Crankpin
Diameter: 2.2487-2.2495 in. 57.1169-57.1373 mm
Taper: 0.0002 in. 0.005 mm
Out of Round: 0.0002 in. 0.005 mm
Clearance: 0.0005-0.0026 in. 0.0127-0.066 mm
End-play: 0.003-0.015 in. 0.0762-0.381 mm
Length: 0.654 in. 16.611 mm
3-112 ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL
ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS
Component U.S. Metric

4.3L (VIN T) engine

Main Journal
Diameter: 2.9993-3.0003 in. 76.181-76.207 mm
Taper: 0.0005 in. 0.013 mm
Out of Round: 0.0005 in. 0.013 mm
Clearance
No. 1, 2, 3: 0.0005-0.002 in. 0.0127-0.0533 mm
No. 4 (rear): 0.0020-0.0034 in. 0.051-0.086 mm
End-play: 0.003-0.0135 in 0.087-0.343 mm
Shell Width
No. 1 & 2: 0.970-0.980 in. 21.9456 mm
No. 3: 1.193-1.195 in. 30.302-30.353 mm
No. 4: 1.27 in. 32.26 mm
Crankpin
Diameter: 2.2498-2.2490 in. 57.120-57.146 mm
Diameter: 2.9993-3.0003 in. 76.181-76.207 mm
Taper: 0.0005 in. 0.013 mm
Clearance: 0.0004-0.0026 in. 0.010-0.066 mm
Side play: 0.008-0.0214 in. 0.21-0.545 mm

TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
Component U.S. Metric
Alternator bracket
2.5L (VIN R) engine
Long bolt: 37 ft. lbs. 50 Nm
Short bolt: 18 ft. lbs. 25 Nm
Camshaft sprocket
2.8L: 15-20 ft. lbs. 20-27 Nm
3.1 L: 15-20 ft. lbs. 20-27 Nm
3.3L, 3.8L, 4.3L: 52 ft. lbs. + 110° 70 Nm + 110°
Camshaft thrust plate bolt
2.5L, 2.8L, 3.0L, 3.1 L: 89 inch lbs. 10 Nm
3.3L, 3.8L, 4.3L: 11 inch lbs. 15 Nm
Camshaft rear cover 6-9 ft. lbs. 8-12 Nm
Connecting rod cap nuts
2.5L (VIN R) engine: 29 ft. lbs. 40 Nm
2.8L (VIN W) engine: 34-40 ft. lbs. 46-54 Nm
2.8L (VIN X) engine: 34-40 ft. lbs. 46-54 Nm
2.8L (VIN Z) engine: 34-40 ft. lbs. 46-54 Nm
3.0L (VIN E) engine: 40-45 ft. IbS. 54-61 Nm
3.1 L (VIN T) engine: 34-40 ft. IbS. 46-54 Nm
3.3L (VIN N) engine: 20 ft. IbS. + 50° 27 Nm + 50°
3.8L (VIN 3) engine: 45 ft. lbs. 61 Nm
4.3L (VIN T) engine: 40-45 ft. lbs. 54-61 Nm
Crankshaft damper/balancer
2.5L (VIN R) (1982-87) engine: 200 ft. lbs. 260 Nm
2.5L (VIN R) (1988-92) engine: 162 ft. lbs. 220 Nm
2.8L (VIN W) engine: 75 ft. lbs. 102 Nm
2.8L (VIN X) engine: 75 ft. lbs. 102 Nm
2.8L (VIN Z) engine: 75 ft. lbs. 102 Nm
3.0L (VIN E) engine: 200 ft. lbs. 260 Nm
3.1 L (VIN T) engine: 75 ft. lbs. 102 Nm
3.3L (VIN N) engine: 105 ft. lbs. + 56° 140 Nm + 56°
3.8L (VIN 3) engine: 220 ft. lbs. 290 Nm
4.3L (VIN T) engine: 40-45 ft. IbS. 54-61 Nm
Engine mount to engine
2.5L. 2.8L, 3.0L, 3.1 L: 40 ft. IbS. 50 Nm
3.3L, 3.8L, 4.3L: 70 ft. Ibs. 95 Nm
 ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL 3-113
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
Component U.S. Metric
Engine mount to frame
2.5L, 2.8L, 3.0L, 3.1 L: 35 ft. lbs. 47 Nm
3.3L, 3.8L, 4.3L: 32 ft. lbs. 44 Nm
Exhaust manifold
2.5L (VIN R) engine
Inner bolt: 37 ft. lbs. 50 Nm
Outer bolt: 28 ft. lbs. 38 Nm
2.8L (VIN W) engine: 15-23 ft. lbs. 20-30 Nm
2.8L (VIN X) engine: 25 ft. lbs. 34 Nm
2.8L (VIN Z) engine: 25 ft. lbs. 34 Nm
3.0L (VIN E) engine: 25-37 ft. lbs. 34-50 Nm
3.1 L (VIN T) engine: 15-23 ft. lbs. 20-30 Nm
3.3L (VIN N) engine: 41 ft. lbs. 55 Nm
3.8L (VIN 3) engine: 37 ft. lbs. 50 Nm
4.3L (VIN T) engine: 29 ft. lbs. 37 Nm
Exhaust pipe: 15-18 ft. lbs. 23-27 Nm
Exhaust pipe clamps: 25 ft. lbs. 35 Nm
Flywheel bolts
2.5L (VIN R) engine:
1982-86: 44 ft. lbs. 61 Nm
1987-92: 55 ft. lbs. 75 Nm
2.8L (VIN W) engine: 52 ft. lbs. 70 Nm
2.8L (VIN X) engine: 52 ft. lbs. 70 Nm
2.8L (VIN Z) engine: 52 ft. lbs. 70 Nm
3.0L (VIN E) engine: 60 ft. lbs. 80 Nm
3.1 L (VIN T) engine: 76 ft. lbs. 108 Nm
3.3L (VIN N) engine: 89 inch lbs. + 90° 10 Nm + 90°
3.8L (VIN 3) engine: 60 ft. lbs. 80 Nm
4.3L (VIN T) engine: 76 ft. lbs. 108 Nm
Front cover
2.5L, 2.8L, 3.0L, 3.1 L: 89 inch lbs. 89 Nm
3.3L, 3.8L, 4.3L: 22 ft. lbs. 30 Nm
Intake Manifold
2.5L (VIN R) engine: 25 ft. lbs. 32 Nm
2.8L (VIN W) engine: 25 ft. lbs. 32 Nm
2.8L (VIN X) engine: 23 ft. lbs. 30 Nm
2.8L (VIN Z) engine: 23 ft. lbs. 30 Nm
3.0L (VIN E} engine: 47 ft. lbs. 65 Nm
3.1 L (VIN T) engine: 25 ft. lbs. 32 Nm
3.3L (VIN N) engine: 89 inch lbs. 10 Nm
3.8L (VIN 3) engine: 47 ft. lbs. 65 Nm
4.3L (VIN T) engine: 41 ft. lbs. 55 Nm
Lifter guide retainer stud 89 inch lbs. 10 Nm
Main bearing caps
2.5L (VIN R) engine:
1982-89: 70 ft. lbs. 95 Nm
1990-92: 65 ft. lbs. 88 Nm
2.8L (VIN W) engine: 63-83 ft. lbs. 85-112 Nm
2.8L (VIN X) engine: 68 ft. lbs. 90 Nm
2.8L (VIN Z) engine: 68 ft. lbs. 90 Nm
3.0L (VIN E) engine: 100 ft. lbs. 135 Nm
3.1 L (VIN T) engine: 63-83 ft. lbs. 85-112 Nm
3.3L (VIN N) engine: 26 ft. lbs. + 45° 35 Nm + 45°
3.8L (VIN 3) engine: 100 ft. lbs. 135 Nm
4.3L (VIN T) engine: 107 ft. lbs. 145 Nm
Oil pan
Except 3.3L (VIN N) engine:
M6 size bolt: 6-9 ft. lbs. 8-12 Nm
M8 size bolt: 15-23 ft. lbs. 20-30 Nm
3.3L (VIN N) engine: 124 inch lbs. 14 Nm
3-114 ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
Component u.s. Metric
Oil pump hold down 67-85 ft. lbs. 27-41 Nm
Oil cover to timing cover
3.3L (VIN N) engine: 97 inch lbs. 11 Nm
Oxygen sensor: 30 ft. lbs. 41 Nm
Push rod cover 89 inch lbs. 10 Nm
Rocker arm covers
2.5L (VIN R) engine: 80 inch lbs. 9 Nm
2.8L (VIN W) engine: 6-9 ft. lbs. 8-12 Nm
2.8L (VIN X) engine: 10 ft. lbs. 11 Nm
2.8L (VIN Z) engine: 10 ft. lbs. 11 Nm
3.0L (VIN E) engine: 14 ft. lbs. 19 Nm
3.1 L (VIN T) engine: 6-9 ft. lbs. 8-12 Nm
3.3L (VIN N) engine: 14 ft. lbs. 19 Nm
3.8L (VIN 3) engine: 14-20 ft. lbs. 19-27 Nm
4.3L (VIN T) engine: 14-20 ft. lbs. . 19-27 Nm
Rocker arm nuts/bolts
2.5L (VIN R) engine: 20 ft. lbs. 27 Nm
except 2.5L engine: 10-25 ft. lbs. 14-34 Nm
Spark plugs
2.5L: 10-25 ft. lbs. 14-34 Nm
2.8L (VIN W) engine: 10-25 ft. lbs. 14-34 Nm
2.8L (VIN X) & (VIN Z): 7-15 ft. lbs. Nm
3.0L (VIN E) engine: 7-15 ft. lbs. Nm
3.1 L (VIN T) engine: 10-25 ft. lbs. 14-34 Nm
3.3L, 3.8L, 4.3L: 20 ft. lbs. 27 Nm
Starter mounting bolts: 32 ft. lbs. 43 Nm
Thermostat housing 15-23 ft. lbs. 20-30 Nm
Timing chain damper 14-19 ft. lbs. 18-24 Nm
Water pump
2.5L (VIN R) (1982-86) engine: 25 ft. lbs. 30 Nm
2.5L (VIN R) (1987-92) engine: 10 ft. lbs. 11 Nm
V6 Gasoline engines
M6 bolt: 6-9 ft. lbs. 8-12 Nm
M10 bolt: 25 ft. lbs. 34 Nm
AIR PUMP 4-9 Exhaust gas recirculation (EGR)
ASSEMBLY LINE DIAGNOSTIC LINK system 4-10
(ALDL) Oxygen (02) sensor 4-14
Multi-port fuel injection 4-104 PCV valve 4-5
Throttle body fuel injection 4-78 Transmission converter clutch
BASIC TROUBLESHOOTING 4-81 system 4-24
COMPUTER CONTROLLED CATALYTIC
CONVERTER (C4)
Troubleshooting charts 4-28
CRANKCASE VENTILATION VALVE
DATA SENSORS
Multi-port fuel injection 4-108
4-5
EVAPORATIVE CANISTER 4-7
EXHAUST GAS RECIRCULATION
(EGR) SYSTEM 4-10
FEEDBACK CARBURETOR
CONTROLS 4-15
MAINTENANCE REMINDER LIGHT 4-13
l
Throttle body fuel injection 4-71 MANIFOLD PRESSURE SENSOR 4-71
EARLY FUEL EVAPORATION MULTI PORT FUEL INJECTION
SYSTEM 4-25 (MPI) 4-102
EGR VALVE 4-10 MPI diagnostic charts 4-117
ELECTRONIC CONTROL MODULE OXYGEN (0t) SENSOR 4-14
Feedback carburetors 4-16 PCV VALVE 4-5
Multi-port fuel injection 4-102 PULSE AIR INJECTION SYSTEM 4-21
Throttle body fuel injection 4-71 THERMOSTATIC AIR CLEANER 4-9
ELECTRONIC ENGINE CONTROLS 4-15 THROTTLE BODY FUEL INJECTION
ELECTRONIC SPARK CONTROL SYSTEM (TBI) 4-65
SYSTEM 4-74 TBI diagnostic charts 4-82
ELECTRONIC SPARK TIMING THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR
SYSTEM 4-24 MPI 4-109
ENGINE EMISSION CONTROLS
Early fuel evaporation system 4-25
Electronic spark control system 4-74
TBI 4-72
TRANSMISSION CONVERTER
CLUTCH SYSTEM 4-24
CONTROLS
Electronic spark timing system 4-24 TROUBLE CODE CHARTS
Evaporative canister 4-7 C4 system 4-26 Basic Troubleshooting 4-81
Electronic Engine Controls 4-15
Engine Emission Control
Systems 4-2
4-2 EMISSION CONTROLS

AIR POLLUTION

The earth’s atmosphere, at or near sea level, returning at the end of the day to their homes in
consists of 78% nitrogen, 21% oxygen and 1% Industrial Pollution the suburbs.
other gases, approximately. If it were possible to It was noted that a fog and smoke type haze
remain in this state, 100% clean air would result. Industrial pollution is caused primarily by was being formed and at times, remained in
However, many varied causes allow other gases industrial processes, the burning of coal, oil and suspension over the cities and did not quickly
and particulates to mix with the clean air, natural gas, which in turn produces smoke and dissipate. At first this “smog”, derived from the
causing the air to become unclean or polluted. fumes. Because the burning fuels contain much words “smoke” and “fog”, was thought to
Certain of these pollutants are visible while sulfur, the principal ingredients of smoke and result from industrial pollution but it was
others are invisible, with each having the fumes are sulfur dioxide (S02) and particulate determined that the automobile emissions were
capability of causing distress to the eyes, ears, matter. This type of pollutant occurs most largely to blame. It was discovered that as
throat, skin and respiratory system. Should these severely during still, damp and cool weather, normal automobile emissions were exposed to
pollutants be concentrated in a specific area and such as at night. Even in its less severe form, sunlight for a period of time, complex chemical
under the right conditions, death could result due this pollutant is not confined to just cities. reactions would take place.
to the displacement or chemical change of the Because of air movements, the pollutants move
It was found the smog was a photo chemical
oxygen content in the air. These pollutants can for miles over the surrounding countryside,
layer and was developed when certain oxides of
cause much damage to the environment and to leaving in its path a barren and unhealthy
nitrogen (NOx) and unbumed hydrocarbons (HC)
the many man made objects that are exposed to environment for all living things.
from the automobile emissions were exposed to
the elements. Working with Federal, State and Local sunlight and was more severe when the smog
To better understand the causes of air mandated rules, regulations and by carefully would remain stagnant over an area in which a
monitoring the emissions, industries have warm layer of air would settle over the top of a
pollution, the pollutants can be categorized into
greatly reduced the amount of pollutant emitted cooler air mass at ground level, trapping and
3 separate types, natural, industrial and
from their industrial sources, striving to obtain an
automotive. holding the automobile emissions, instead of the
acceptable level. Because of the mandated
emissions being dispersed and diluted through
industrial emission clean up, many land areas
normal air flows. This type of air stagnation was
and streams in and around the cities that were
Natural Pollutants given the name “Temperature Inversion”.
formerly barren of vegetation and life, have now
begun to move back in the direction of nature’s
Natural pollution has been present on earth
intended balance.
before man appeared and is still a factor to be Temperature Inversion
considered when discussing air pollution,
although it causes only a small percentage of the In normal weather situations, the surface air is
present overall pollution problem existing in our Automotive Pollutants warmed by the heat radiating from the earth’s
country. It is the direct result of decaying organic surface and the sun’s rays and will rise upward,
The third major source of air pollution is the
matter, wind born smoke and particulates from into the atmosphere, to be cooled through a
automotive emissions. The emissions from the
such natural events as plains and forest fires convection type heat expands with the cooler
internal combustion engine were not an
(ignited by heat or lightning), volcanic ash, sand upper air. As the warm air rises, the surface
appreciable problem years ago because of the
and dust which can spread over a large area of pollutants are carried upward and dissipated into
small number of registered vehicles and the
the countryside. the atmosphere.
nation’s small highway system. However, during
Such a phenomenon of natural pollution has When a temperature inversion occurs, we find
the early 1950’s, the trend of the American
been recent volcanic eruptions, with the resulting the higher air is ho longer cooler but warmer than
people was to move from the cities to the
plume of smoke, steam and volcanic ash blotting the surface air, causing the cooler surface air to
surrounding suburbs. This caused an immediate
out the sun’s rays as it spreads and rises higher become trapped and unable to move. This warm
problem in the transportation areas because the
into the atmosphere, where the upper air air blanket can extend from above ground level
majority of the suburbs were not afforded mass
currents catch and carry the smoke and ash, to a few hundred or even a few thousand feet into
while condensing the steam back into water transit conveniences. This lack of transportation
created an attractive market for the automobile the air. As the surface air is trapped, so are the
vapor. As the water vapor, smoke and ash pollutants, causing a severe smog condition.
traveled on their journey, the smoke dissipates manufacturers, which resulted in a dramatic
increase in the number of vehicles produced and Should this stagnant air mass extend to a few
into the atmosphere while the ash and moisture thousand feet high, enough air movement with
settle back to earth in a trail hundred of miles sold, along with a marked increase in highway
construction between cities and the suburbs. the inversion takes place to allow the smog layer
long, in many cases, lives are lost and millions to rise above ground level but the pollutants still
of dollars of property damage result, and Multi-vehicle families emerged with much
emphasis placed on the individual vehicle per cannot dissipate. This inversion can remain for
ironically, man can only stand by and watch it days over an area, with only the smog level
happen. family member. As the increase in vehicle
ownership and usage occurred, so did the rising or lowering from ground level to a few
pollutant levels In and around the cities, as the hundred feet high. Meanwhile, the pollutant
suburbanites drove daily to their businesses and levels increases, causing eye irritation,
employment in the city and its fringe area, respirator problems, reduced visibility, plant
damage and in some cases, cancer type
diseases.
 EMISSION CONTROLS 4-3
This inversion phenomenon was first noted in putting in air and fuel, we obtain power from this emissions. To understand the behavior of the
the Los Angeles, California area. The city lies in mixture during the combustion process to drive combustion and transfer of its heat, consider the
a basin type of terrain and during certain weather the vehicle. The by-product or waste of this air/fuel charge. It is ignited and the flame front
conditions, a cold air mass is held in the basin power is, in part, heat and exhaust gases with bums progressively across the combustion
while a warmer air mass covers it like a lid. which we must concern ourselves. chamber until the burning charge reaches the
Because this type of condition was first cylinder walls. Some of the fuel in contact with
documented as prevalent in the Los Angeles the walls is not hot enough to bum, thereby
area, this type of smog was named Los Angeles HEAT TRANSFER snuffing out or Quenching the combustion
Smog, although it occurs in other areas where a process. This leaves unbumed fuel in the
large concentration of automobiles are used and combustion chamber. This unbumed fuel is then
the air remains stagnant for any length of time. The heat from the combustion process can forced out of the cylinder along with the exhaust
rise to over 4000°F (2204°C). The dissipation of gases and into the exhaust system.
this heat is controlled by a ram air effect, the use Many attempts have been made to minimize
of cooling fans to cause air flow and having a the amount of unbumed fuel in the combustion
Internal Combustion liquid coolant solution surrounding the chambers due to the snuffing out or
combustion area and transferring the heat of “Quenching”, by increasing the coolant
Engine Pollutants combustion through the cylinder walls and into temperature and lessening the contact area of
the coolant. The coolant is then directed to a thin- the coolant around the combustion area. Design
Consider the internal combustion engine as a finned, multi-tubed radiator, from which the limitations within the combustion chambers
machine in which raw materials must be placed excess heat is transferred to the outside air by 1 prevent the complete burning of the air/fuel
so a finished product comes out. As in any or all of the 3 heat transfer methods, conduction, charge, so a certain amount of the unbumed fuel
machine operation, a certain amount of wasted convection or radiation. is still expelled into the exhaust system,
material is formed. When we relate this to the The cooling of the combustion area is an regardless of modifications to the engine.
internal combustion engine, we find that by important part in the control of exhaust

EXHAUST EMISSIONS

combustion process, other pollutants are formed come from the vehicle’s fuel tank and carburetor
Composition Of The and are considered dangerous. These pollutants bowl.
are carbon monoxide (CO), hydrocarbons (HC), To reduce combustion hydrocarbon emission,
Exhaust Gases oxides of nitrogen (NOx) oxides of sulfur (SOx) engine modifications were made to minimize
and engine particulates. dead space and surface area in the combustion
The exhaust gases emitted into the Lead (Pb), is considered 1 of the particulates chamber. In addition the air/fuel mixture was
atmosphere are a combination of burned and and is present in the exhaust gases whenever made more lean through improved carburetion,
unbumed fuel. Td understand the exhaust leaded fuels are used. Lead (Pb) does not fuel injection and by the addition of external
emission and its composition review some basic dissipate easily. Levels can be high along controls to aid in further combustion of the
chemistry. roadways when it is emitted from vehicles and hydrocarbons outside the engine. Two such
When the air/fuel mixture is introduced into can pose a health threat. Since the increased methods were the addition of an air injection
the engine, we are mixing air, composed of usage of unleaded gasoline and the phasing out system, to inject fresh air into the exhaust
nitrogen (78%), oxygen (21%) and other gases of leaded gasoline for fuel, this pollutant is manifolds and the installation of a catalytic
(1%) with the fuel, which is 100% hydrocarbons gradually diminishing. While not considered a converter, a unit that is able to bum traces of
(HC), in a semi-controlled ratio. As the major threat lead is still considered a dangerous hydrocarbons without affecting the internal
combustion process is accomplished, power is pollutant. combustion process or fuel economy.
produced to move the vehicle while the heat of To control hydrocarbon emissions through
combustion is transferred to the cooling system. fuel evaporation, modifications were made to the
The exhaust gases are then composed of HYDROCARBONS fuel tank and carburetor bowl to allow storage of
nitrogen, a diatomic gas (Nj), the same as was the fuel vapors during periods of engine shut¬
introduced in the engine, carbon dioxide (C02), down, and at specific times during engine
the same gas that is used in beverage Hydrocarbons (HC) are essentially unbumed operation, to purge and bum these same vapors
carbonation and water vapor (H20). The nitrogen fuel that have not been successfully burned by blending them with the air/fuel mixture.
(N2), for the most part passes through the engine during the combustion process or have escaped
unchanged, while the oxygen (0^ reacts (bums) into the atmosphere through fuel evaporation.
with the hydrocarbons (HC) and produces the The main sources of incomplete combustion are CARBON MONOXIDE
carbon dioxide (C02) and the water vapors rich air/fuel mixtures, low engine temperatures
(H20). If this chemical process would be the only and improper spark timing. The main sources of
process to take place, the exhaust emissions hydrocarbon emission through fuel evaporation Carbon monoxide is formed when not enough
would be harmless. However, during the oxygen is present during the combustion
4-4 EMISSION CONTROLS
process to convert carbon (C) to carbon dioxide The most common discharge area on the chemical reaction takes place within the battery
(C02). An increase in the carbon monoxide (CO) automobile engine is the secondary ignition cells.
emission is normally accompanied by an electrical system, especially when inferior When a large concentration of vehicles
increase in the hydrocarbon (HC) emission quality spark plug cables are used. As the surge equipped with catalytic converters are operating
because of the lack of oxygen to completely bum of high voltage is routed through the secondary in an area, this acid mist will rise and be
all of the fuel mixture. cable, the circuit builds up an electrical field distributed over a large ground area causing
Carbon monoxide (CO) also increases the rate around the wire, acting upon the oxygen in the land, plant, crop, paints and building damage.
at which the photo chemical smog is formed by surrounding air to form the ozone. The faint glow
speeding up the conversion of nitric oxide (NO) along the cable with the engine running that may
to nitrogen dioxide (NO^. To accomplish this, be visible on a dark night, is called the “corona PARTICULATE MATTER
carbon monoxide (CO) combines with oxygen discharge.” It is the result of the electrical field
(02) and nitrogen dioxide (NO^ to produce passing from a high along the cable, to a low in
carbon dioxide (C02) and nitrogen dioxide (NOj). the surrounding air, which forms the ozone gas. A certain amount of particulate matter is
(CO + 02 + NO = C02 + NOj). The combination of corona and ozone has been present in the burning of any fuel, with carbon
The dangers of carbon monoxide, which Is an a major cause of cable deterioration. Recently, constituting the largest percentage of the
odorless, colorless toxic gas are many. When different types and better quality insulating particulates. In gasoline, the remaining
carbon monoxide is inhaled into the lungs and materials have lengthened the life of the percentage of particulates is the burned remains
passed into the blood stream, oxygen is replaced electrical cables. of the various other compounds used in its
by the carbon monoxide in the red blood cells, Although ozone at ground level can be manufacture. When a gasoline engine is in good
causing a reduction in the amount of oxygen harmful, ozone is beneficial to the earth’s internal condition, the particulate emissions are
being supplied to the many parts of the body. inhabitants. By having a concentrated ozone low but as the engine wears internally, the
This lack of oxygen causes headaches, lack of layer called the ‘ozonosphere’, between 10 and particulate emissions increase. By visually
coordination, reduced mental alertness and 20 miles (16-32km) up in the atmosphere much inspecting the tail pipe emissions, a
should the carbon monoxide concentration be of the ultra violet radiation from the sun’s rays determination can be made as to where an
high enough, death could result. are absorbed and screened. If this ozone layer engine defect may exist An engine with light
were not present, much of the earth’s surface gray smoke emitting from the tail pipe normally
would be burned, dried and unfit for human life. indicates an increase in the oil consumption
NITROGEN There is much discussion concerning the through burning due to internal engine wear.
ozone layer and its density. A feeling exists that Black smoke would indicate a defective fuel
this protective layer of ozone is slowly delivery system, causing the engine to operate in
Normally, nitrogen is an inert gas. When diminishing and corrective action must be a rich mode. Regardless of the color of the
heated to approximately 2500°F (1371°C) directed to this problem. Much experimenting is smoke, the internal part of the engine or the fuel
through the combustion process, this gas presently being conducted to determine if a delivery system should be repaired to a “like
becomes active and causes an increase in the problem exists and if so, the short and long term new" condition to prevent excess particulate
nitric oxide (NOx) emission. effects of the problem and how it can be emissions.
Oxides of nitrogen (NOx) are composed of remedied. Diesel and turbine engines emit a darkened
approximately 97-98% nitric oxide (N02). Nitric plume of smoke from the exhaust system
oxide is a colorless gas but when it is passed because of the type of fuel used. Emission
into the atmosphere, it combines with oxygen
OXIDES OF SULFUR control regulations are mandated for this type of
and forms nitrogen dioxide (N02). The nitrogen
emission and more stringent measures are being
dioxide then combines with chemically active used to prevent excess emission of the
hydrocarbons (HC) and when in the presence of Oxides of sulfur (SOx) were initially ignored in particulate matter. Electronic components are
sunlight, causes the formation of photo chemical the exhaust system emissions, since the sulfur being introduced to control the injection of the
smog. content of gasoline as a fuel is less than V10 of fuel at precisely the proper time of piston travel,
1 %. Because of this small amount it was felt that to achieve the optimum in fuel ignition and fuel
it contributed very little to the overall pollution usage. Other particulate after-burning
OZONE problem. However, because of the difficulty in components are being tested to achieve a
solving the sulfur emissions in industrial cleaner particular emission.
pollutions and the introduction of catalytic
To further complicate matters, some of the Good grades of engine lubricating oils should
converter to the automobile exhaust systems, a
nitrogen dioxide (N02) is broken apart by the be used, meeting the manufacturers
change was mandated. The automobile exhaust
sunlight to form nitric oxide and oxygen. (N02 + specification. “Cut-rate” oils can contribute to
system, when equipped with a catalytic
sunlight = NO + 0). This single atom of oxygen the particulate emission problem because of
converter, changes the sulfur dioxide (SOz) into
then combines with diatomic (meaning 2 atoms) their low “flash” or ignition temperature point.
the sulfur trioxide (S03).
oxygen (02) to form ozone (03). Ozone is 1 of Such oils burn prematurely during the
When this combines with water vapors (H20),
the smells associated with smog. It has a combustion process causing emissions of
a sulfuric acid mist (H2S04) is formed and is a
pungent and offensive odor, irritates the eyes particulate matter.
very difficult pollutant to handle and is extremely
and lung tissues, affects the growth of plant life The'cooiing system is an important factor in
corrosive. This sulfuric acid mist that is formed,
and causes rapid deterioration of rubber the reduction of particulate matter. With the
is the same mist that rises from the vents of an
products. Ozone can be formed by sunlight as cooling system operating at a temperature
automobile storage battery when an active
well as electrical discharge into the air. specified by the manufacturer, the optimum of
combustion will occur. The cooling system must
 EMISSION CONTROLS 4-5
be maintained in the same manner as the engine pressure area at the end of the tube. Crankcase from the refinery standpoint. However, the
oiling system, as each system is required to emissions were simply drawn out of the road automobile still remained the primary source of
perform properly in order for the engine to draft tube into the air. vaporized, unbumed hydrocarbon (HC)
operate efficiently for a long time. To control the crankcase emission, the road emissions.
draft tube was deleted. A hose and/or tubing was Fuel pumped form an underground storage
routed from the crankcase to the intake manifold tank is cool but when exposed to a wamer
so the blow-by emission could be burned with ambient temperature, will expand. Before
Other Automobile the air/fuel mixture. However, it was found that controls were mandated, an owner would fill the
Emission Sources intake manifold vacuum, used to draw the fuel tank with fuel from an underground storage
crankcase emissions into the manifold, would tank and park the vehicle for some time in warm
Before emission controls were mandated on vary in strength at the wrong time and not allow area, such as a parking lot. As the fuel would
the internal combustion engines, other sources the proper emission flow. A regulating type valve warm, it would expand and should no provisions
of engine pollutants were discovered, along with was needed to control the flow of air through the or area be provided for the expansion, the fuel
the exhaust emission. It was determined the crankcase. would spill out the filler neck and onto the
engine combustion exhaust produced 60% of the Testing, showed the removal of the blow-by ground, causing hydrocarbon (HC) pollution and
total emission pollutants, fuel evaporation from gases from the crankcase as quickly as creating a severe fire hazard. To correct this
the fuel tank and carburetor vents produced possible, was most important to the longevity of condition, the vehicle manufacturers added
20%, with the another 20% being produced the engine. Should large accumulations of blow- overflow plumbing and/or gasoline tanks with
through the crankcase as a by-product of the by gases remain and condense, dilution of the built in expansion areas or domes.
combustion process. engine oil would occur to form water, soots, However, this did not control the fuel vapor
resins, acids and lead salts, resulting in the emission from the fuel tank and the carburetor
formation of sludge and varnishes. This bowl. It was determined that most of the fuel
condensation of the blow-by gases occur more evaporation occurred when the vehicle was
CRANKCASE EMISSIONS frequently on vehicles used in numerous starting stationary and the engine not operating. Most
and stopping conditions, excessive idling and vehicles carry 5-25 gallons (19-95 liters) of
Crankcase emissions are made up of water, when the engine is not allowed to attain normal gasoline. Should a large concentration of
acids, unbumed fuel, oil fumes and particulates. operating temperature through short runs. The vehicles be parked in one area, such as a large
The emissions are classified as hydrocarbons crankcase purge control or PCV system will be parking lot, excessive fuel vapor emissions
(HC) and are formed by the small amount of described in detail later in this section. would take place, increasing as the temperature
unburned, compressed air/fuel mixture entering increases.
the crankcase from the combustion area during To prevent the vapor emission from escaping
the compression and power strokes, between FUEL EVAPORATIVE into the atmosphere, the fuel system is designed
the cylinder walls and piston rings. The head of EMISSIONS to trap the fuel vapors while the vehicle is
the compression and combustion help to form stationary, by sealing the fuel system from the
the remaining crankcase emissions. atmosphere. A storage system is used to collect
Since the first engines, crankcase emissions Gasoline fuel is a major source of pollution, and hold the fuel vapors from the carburetor and
were allowed to go into the air through a road before and after it is burned in the automobile the fuel tank when the engine is not operating.
draft tube, mounted on the lower side of the engine. From the time the fuel is refined, stored, When the engine is started, the storage system
engine block. Fresh air came in through an open pumped and transported, again stored until it is is then purged of the fuel vapors, which are
oil filler cap or breather. The air passed through pumped into the fuel tank of the vehicle, the drawn into the engine and burned with the air/
the crankcase mixing with blow-by gases. The gasoline gives off unbumed hydrocarbons (HC) fuel mixture.
motion of the vehicle and the air blowing past the into the atmosphere. Through redesigning of the The components of the fuel evaporative
open end of the road draft tube caused a low storage areas and venting systems, the pollution system will be described in detail later in this
factor has been diminished but not eliminated, section.

EMISSION CONTROLS

You’ll find emission controls, ignition controls control crankcase blow-by vapors. The system
and fuel system controls are interrelated Crankcase Ventilation functions as follows:
systems on the newer cars. In this section of the When the engine is running, a small portion of
manual you’ll find emission components related
System the gases which are formed in the combustion
to exhaust gas recirculation, crankcase fume chamber leak by the piston rings and enter the
venting, evaporative. The Electronic Engine crankcase. Since these gases are under
Control portion of the section should be be used OPERATION pressure, they tend to escape from the
in conjunction with the Fuel System section of crankcase and enter the atmosphere. If these
the manual. gases are allowed to remain in the crankcase for
All these gasoline vehicles are equipped with any period of time, they contaminate the engine
a positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) system to oil and cause sludge to build up in the
4-6 EMISSION CONTROLS
crankcase. If the gases are allowed to escape
into the atmosphere, they pollute the air with
unburned hydrocarbons.
The job of the crankcase emission control
equipment is to recycle these gases back into
the engine combustion chamber where they are
reburned.
The crankcase (blow-by) gases are recycled
in the following way: as the engine is running,
clean, filtered air is drawn through the air filter
and into the crankcase. As the air passes
through the crankcase, it picks up the
combustion gases and carries them out of the
crankcase, through the oil separator, through the
PCV valve, and into the induction system. As hose. Shake the valve it should rattle. If not it’s 2. Inspect the rubber grommet in the valve
they enter the intake manifold, they are drawn plugged up with dirt and must be replaced. cover and the rubber coupling for brittleness or
into the combustion chamber where they are 6. When replacing a PCV valve you MUST cracking. Replace parts as necessary.
reburned. use the correct valve. Many valves look alike on 3. Insert the new PCV filter through the hole in
The most critical component in the system is the outside, but have different mechanical the air cleaner With the open portion of the filter
the PCV valve. This valve controls the amount of values. Putting an incorrect PCV valve on a upward. Make sure that the square portion of
gases which are recycled into the combustion vehicle can cause a great deal of driveability filter behind the nipple fits into the (square) hole
chamber. At low engine speeds, the valve is problems. The engine computer assumes the in the air cleaner.
partially closed, limiting the flow of gases into valve is the correct one and may over adjust 4. Install a new spring clamp onto the nipple.
the intake manifold. As engine speed increases, ignition timing or fuel mixture. Make sure the clamp goes under the ridge on the
the valve opens to admit greater quantities of
filter nipple all the way around. Then, reconnect
gases into the intake manifold. If the valve should
the rubber coupling and install the air cleaner
become blocked or plugged, the gases will be
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION cover.
prevented from escaping from the crankcase by
the normal route. Since these gases are under
pressure, they will find their own way out of the * SEE FIG. 1
crankcase. This alternate route is usually a weak
oil seal or gasket in the engine. As the gas
In replacing the PCV valve, make sure it is Diesel Crankcase
fully inserted in the hose, that the clamp is
escapes by the gasket, it also creates an oil leak.
moved over the ridge on the valve so that the
Ventilation
Besides causing oil leaks, a clogged PCV valve
valve will not slip out of the hose, and that the
also allows these gases to remain in the
valve is fully inserted into the grommet in the t SEE FIG. 2
crankcase for an extended period of time,
valve cover. A crankcase depression regulator valve is
promoting the formation of sludge in the engine.
1. Slide the rubber coupling that joins the used to regulate the flow of crankcase gases
tube coming from the valve cover to the filter off back into the engine. This valve is designed to
SERVICE the filter nipple. Then, remove the top of the air limit vacuum in the crankcase. The gases are
cleaner. Slide the spring clamp off the filter, and drawn from the valve cover through the CDRV
remove the filter. and into the intake manifold.
Inspect the PCV system hose and connections
at each tune-up and replace any deteriorated
hoses. Check the PCV valve at every tune-up and
replace it at 30,000 mile intervals.
1. Remove the PCV valve from the rocker
arm cover.
2. Start engine, allow to reach normal
temperature and idle speed. crankcase
2. Mounting bracket
3. Place your thumb over the end of the valve 3. Cover diaphragm
to check for vacuum. If no vacuum, check the 4. Body
valve and hose. Most likely the hose is plugged 5. Spring
6. Outlet tube (Gase
up.
manifold)
4. Newer computer controlled vehicles may
no show much of a change in engine rpm when
the valve is blocked or removed due to the
computer compensating almost instantly to the
vacuum change. V-TYPE DIESEL ENGINE

5. Remove the valve from the engine and FIG.2 Crankcase depression regulator (CORV)
 EMISSION CONTROLS 4-7
Fresh air enters the engine through the
combination filter, check valve, and oil fill cap.
This air mixes with blow-by gases and enters the
opposite valve cover. These gases pass through
a filter on the valve cover and are drawn into the
connected tubing.
Intake manifold vacuum acts against a spring
loaded diaphragm to control the flow of
crankcase gases. Higher vacuum levels pull the
diaphragm closer to the top of the outlet tube.
This reduces the amount of gases being drawn
from the crankcase and decreases vacuum in
the crankcase. As intake vacuum decreases, the
spring pushes the diaphragm away from the top
of the outlet tube allowing more gases into the
manifold.
Do not allow solvent to come In
contact with the diaphragm of the
CDRV, as it will cause diaphragm
damage.

EVAPORATIVE EMISSION CONTROL SYSTEM

The basic Evaporative Emission Control the carburetor float bowl are vented through a absorbs these vapors in a bed of activated
System (EEC) used on all models is the carbon vapor canister containing activated charcoal. The charcoal and retains them until the canister is
canister storage method. The system is used to system utilizes a sealed fuel tank with a dome purged or cleared by air drawn through the filter
reduce emissions of fuel vapors from the car’s that collects fuel vapors and allows them to pass at its bottom. The absorbing occurs when the car
fuel system. Evaporated fuel vapors are stored on into a line connected with the vapor canister. is not running, while the purging or cleaning
for burning during combustion rather than being In addition, the vapors that form above the float occurs when the car is running. The amount of
vented into the atmosphere when the engine is chamber in the carburetor also pass into a line vapor being drawn into the engine at any given
not running. To accomplish this, the fuel tank and connected with the canister. The canister

CARBURETOR

-VACUUM SIGNAL

OFF IDLE
PURGE PORT

FUEL TANK VENT

.IDLE PURGE PORT
(CONSTANT)
VENT RESTRICTER

PRESSURE - VACUUM
RELIEF GAS CAP

\ VAPOR STORAGE
'CANISTER

ijtFUEL^^-^^

FUEL TANK

PURGE AIR

FIG.4 Evaporative emission control system with canister open

4-8 EMISSION CONTROLS

FIG.5 Evaporative emission control system with canister closed

time is too small to have an effect on either fuel VAPOR CANISTER REMOVAL Body cars. Many of these systems are controlled
economy or engine performance. by or engine control computer. Included in this
The Electronic Control Module (ECM) controls
& INSTALLATION category are: Thermostatic Air Cleaner
the vacuum to the canister purge valve by using (THERMAC); Air Management System; Early
an electrically operated solenoid valve. When the 1. Loosen the screw holding the canister Fuel Evaporation System (EFE); Exhaust Gas
system is in the 'Open Loop’ mode, the solenoid retaining bracket. Recirculation (EGR); Computer Command
valve is energized and blocks all vacuum to the 2. If equipped with A/C, loosen the Control System (CCC); Throttle Body Injection
canister purge valve. When the system is in the attachments holding the accumulator and pipe (TBI); Multi-Port Fuel Injection (MPI);
‘Closed Loop’ mode, the solenoid valve is de¬ assembly. Deceleration Valve; Mixture Control Solenoid (MI
energized and vacuum is then supplied to 3. Rotate the canister retaining bracket and C); Throttle Position Sensor (TPS); Idle Speed
operate the purge valve. This releases the fuel remove the canister. Control (ISC); Electronic Spark Timing (EST);
vapors, collected in the canister, into the 4. Tag and disconnect the hoses leading from Transmission Converter Clutch (TCC); Catalytic
induction system. the canister. Converter and the Oxygen Sensor System. A
It is extremely important that only vapors be 5. Installation is in the reverse order of brief description of each system and any
transferred to the engine. To avoid the possibility applicable service procedures follows.
removal.
of liquid fuel being drawn into the system, the Many of the component testing is covered in
following features are included as part of the chart format. The ECM (Electronic Control
total system: Module) is capable of storing diagnostic codes.
FILTER REPLACEMENT Many of the components test will be cover in the
• A fuel tank overfill protector is provided to
assure adequate room for expansion of liquid charts related to certain codes. Example is if the
fuel volume with temperature changes. 1. Remove the vapor canister. ECM see an improper signal from the coolant
• A one point fuel tank venting system is 2. Puli the filter out from the bottom of the temperature sensor it will store a code 14. You
provided on all models to assure that the tank canister. would perform the test for Code 14 for the
will be vented under any normal car attitude. This 3. Install a new filter and then replace the engine in your vehicle. If you wanted to test this
is accomplished by the use of a domed tank. canister. component even thought the computer did not
• A pressure-vacuum relief valve is located store a code you would still use the same chart
in the fuel cap. and procedure.
There are 3 major electronic engine control
Some canisters are of the closed Emission Control systems covered in this section. Feedback
design. They draw air from the air
cleaner rather than the bottom of Systems Carburetor also called Computer Command
Control (CCC) System, Throttle Body Injection
the canister.
System and Multi-Port Injection System. You
Emission control system constitute the largest only need use the text and charts for the system
body of emission control devices installed on A-
 EMISSION CONTROLS 4-9
wnich your car uses. The Fuel Systems section be used to make this job easier. The damper 5. A dual-bed, three-way catalytic converter.
of the book will cover must removal, installation door should be open to admit outside air. The belt driven, vane-type air pump is located
and adjustments. This section will be used for 3. Apply at least 7 in.Hg of vacuum to the at the front of the engine and supplies clean air
general descriptions of systems and damper diaphragm unit. The door should close, to the AIR system for purposes already stated.
components and the testing charts needed to if it doesn’t, check the diaphragm linkage for When the engine is cold, the Electronic Control
diagnosis them. binding and correct hookup. Module (ECM) energizes an AIR control
4. With the vacuum still applied and the door solenoid. This allows air to flow to the AIR
closed, clamp the tube to trap the vacuum. If the switching valve. The AIR switching valve is then
door doesn’t remain closed, there is a leak in the energized to direct air to the exhaust ports.
Thermostatic Air diaphragm assembly. When the engine is warm, the ECM de¬
Cleaner (THERMAC) energizes the AIR switching valve, thus directing
the air between the beds of the catalytic
All Feedback Carbureted, and Throttle Body Air Management System converter. This provides additional oxygen for
the oxidizing catalyst in the second bed to
Injected engines use the THERMAC system. This
The AIR management system, is used to decrease HC and CO, while at the same time
system is designed to warm the air entering the
provide additional oxygen to continue the keeping oxygen levels low in the first bed,
carburetor when underhood temperatures are
combustion process after the exhaust gases enabling the reducing catalyst to effectively
low, and to maintain a controlled air temperature
leave the combustion chamber. Air is injected decrease the levels of NOx.
into the carburetor at all times. By allowing
preheated air to enter the carburetor, the amount into either the exhaust port(s), the exhaust If the AIR control valve detects a rapid
manifold (s) or the catalytic converter by an increase in manifold vacuum (deceleration),
of time the choke is on is reduced, resulting in
engine driven air pump. The system is in certain operating modes (wide open throttle,
better fuel economy and lower emissions.
operation at all times and will bypass air only etc.) or if the ECM self-diagnostic system
Engine warm-up time is a also reduced. -
momentarily during deceleration and at high detects any problem in the system, air is diverted
The THERMAC system is composed of the air
cleaner body, a filter, sensor unit, vacuum speeds. The bypass function is performed by the to the air cleaner or directly into the atmosphere.
diaphragm, damper door, and associated hoses AIR Management Valve, while the check valve The primary purpose of the ECM’s divert
and connections. Heat radiating from the exhaust protects the air pump by preventing any mode is to prevent backfiring. Throttle closure at
manifold is trapped by a heat stove and is ducted backflow of exhaust gases. the beginning of deceleration will temporarily
to the air cleaner to supply heated air to the The AIR management system helps reduce create air/fuel mixtures which are too rich to bum
carburetor. A movable door in the air cleaner HC and CO content in the exhaust gases by completely. These mixtures become burnable
case snorkel allows air to be drawn in from the injecting air into the exhaust ports during cold when they reach the exhaust if combined with
heat stove (cold operation). The door position is engine operation. This air injection also helps the the injection air. The next firing of the engine will
controlled by the vacuum motor, which receives catalytic converter to reach the proper ignite this mixture causing an exhaust backfire.
intake manifold vacuum as modulated by the temperature quicker during warmup. When the Momentary diverting of the injection air from the
temperature sensor. engine is warm (Closed Loop), the AIR system exhaust prevents this.
injects air into the beds of a three-way converter The AIR management system check valves
to lower the HC and the CO content in the and hoses should be checked periodically for
exhaust. any leaks, cracks or deterioration.
SYSTEM CHECKS The Air Management system utilizes the
following components:
1. Check the vacuum hoses for leaks, kinks, 1. An engine driven AIR pump. REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
breaks, or improper connections and correct any 2. AIR management valves (Air Control, Air
defects. Switching).
2. With the engine off, check the position of 3. Air flow and control hoses. Air Pump
the damper door within the snorkel. A mirror can 4. Check valves.
1. Remove the AIR management valves and/
or adapter at the pump.
2. Loosen the air pump adjustment bolt and
remove the drive belt.
3. Unscrew the pump mounting bolts and
then remove the pump pulley.
4. Unscrew the pump mounting bolts and
then remove the pump.
5. Installation is in the reverse order of
removal. Be sure to adjust the drive belt tension
after installing it.
Check Valve
1. Release the clamp and disconnect the air
hoses from the valve.
2. Unscrew the check valve from the air
injection pipe.
4-10 EMISSION CONTROLS
A

HOT AIR DELIVERY

MODI

FIG.7 Schematic ot the vacuum motor operation

3. Installation Is in the reverse order of accomplished by the use of an EGR valve which mph. The EGR system is deactivated on vehicles
removal. opens, under specific engine operating equipped with a Transmission Converter Clutch
conditions, to admit a small amount of exhaust (TCC) when the TCC is engaged. There are three
Air Management Valve gas into the intake manifold, below the throttle basic types of systems as described below,
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. plate. The exhaust gas mixes with the incoming differing in the way EGR flow is modulated.
2. Remove the air cleaner. air charge and displaces a portion of the oxygen
3. Tag and disconnect the vacuum hose from in the air/fuel mixture entering the combustion
the valve. chamber. The exhaust gas does not support POSITIVE BACKPRESSURE
4. Tag and disconnect the air outlet hoses combustion of the air/fuel mixture but it takes up
volume, the net effect of which is to lower the
EGR VALVE
from the valve.
5. Bend back the lock tabs and then remove temperature of the combustion process. This
the bolts holding the elbow to the valve. lower temperature also helps control detonation. An air bleed valve, located inside the EGR
6. Tag and disconnect any electrical The EGR valve is a mounted on the intake valve assembly acts as a vacuum regulator. The
connections at the valve and then remove the manifold and has an opening into the exhaust bleed valve controls the amount of vacuum in the
valve from the elbow. manifold. On some vehicles, the EGR valve is vacuum chamber by bleeding vacuum to outside
opened by manifold vacuum to permit'exhaust air during the open phase of the cycle. When the
7. Installation is in the reverse order of
gas to flow into the intake manifold. On others, EGR valve receives enough backpressure
removal.
the EGR valve is purely electrical and uses through the hollow shaft, it closes the valve. At
solenoid valves to open the flow passage. If too this point, maximum available vacuum is applied
much exhaust gas enters, combustion will not to the diaphragm and the EGR valve opens. If
Exhaust Gas occur. Because of this, very little exhaust gas is there is a small amount of vacuum or no vacuum
Recirculation System allowed to pass through the valve. The EGR in the vacuum chamber such as wide open
system will be activated once the engine reaches throttle or at idle, the EGR valve will not open.
normal operating temperature and the EGR valve The positive backpressure EGR valve also will
| SEE FIGS. 8 to 12
will open when engine operating conditions are not open if vacuum is applied to the valve with
Not all vehicles are equipped with above idle speed and below Wide Open Throttle the engine stopped or idling.
an EGR system. (WOT). On California vehicles equipped with a
The EGR system is used to reduce oxides of Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS), the EGR valve
nitrogen (NOx) emission levels caused by high opens when the VSS signal is greater than 2
combustion chamber temperatures. This is
 EMISSION CONTROLS 4-11
NEGATIVE BACKPRESSURE above the diaphragm to below and the bleed closed by a small spring when there is no
valve is normally closed. The negative exhaust backpressure. Engine vacuum opens the
EGR VALVE backpressure EGR valve varies the amount of EGR valve against the pressure of a spring.
exhaust gas flow into the intake manifold When manifold vacuum combines with negative
The negative backpressure EGR valve is depending on manifold vacuum and variations in exhaust backpressure, the vacuum bleed hole
similar to the positive backpressure EGR valve exhaust backpressure. The diaphragm on the opens and the EGR valve closes. This valve will
except that the bleed valve spring is moved from valve has an internal air bleed hole which is held open if vacuum is applied with the engine not
running.

CONTROL VALVE

CONTROL VALVE
CLOSED

TO
VACUUM
SOURCE

FIGURE 2

EXHAUST GAS TO
INTAKE MANIFOLD

GAS (IN) Bill EXHAUST GAS

FIG.8 Exhaust gas modulated EGR valve

FIG.9 Vacuum modulated EGR valve

4-12 EMISSION CONTROLS

EGR VALVE IDENTIFICATION

DIGITAL EGR VALVE to determine the appropriate rate of flow for a

particular engine operating condition. • Positive backpressure EGV valves will have
a “P” stamped on the top side of the valve below
The digital EGR valve, used on the 3.1 L (VIN the date built.
T) engine, is designed to control the flow of EGR INCORRECT EGR • Negative backpressure EGR valves will
independent of intake manifold vacuum. The have a “N” stamped on the top side of the valve
valve controls EGR flow through 3 solenoid- OPERATION below the date built
opened orifices, which increase in size, to • Port EGR valves have no identification
produce 7 possible combinations. When a Too much EGR flow at idle, cruise, or during stamped below the date built.
solenoid is energized, the armature with attached cold operation may result in the engine stalling
shaft and swivel pintle, is lifted, opening the after cold start, the engine stalling at idle after
orifice. deceleration, vehicle surge during cruise and REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
The digital EGR valve is opened by the ECM, rough idle. If the EGR valve is always open, the
grounding each solenoid circuit individually. The vehicle may not idle. Too little or no EGR flow
flow of EGR is regulated by the ECM which uses allows combustion temperatures to get too high Except 3.1L (VINT) Engine
information from the Coolant Temperature which could result in spark knock (detonation),
Sensor (CTS), Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
engine overheating and/or emission test failure. 2. Remove the air cleaner assembly.
and Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor

FIG.12 Exhaust pressure regulator valve (EPR)

 EMISSION CONTROLS 4-13
3. Tag and disconnect the necessary hoses should be at least 14 in.Hg of vacuum. If not,
and wiring to gain access to the EGR valve. Diesel EGR System check the vacuum pump, VRV, RVR, solenoid,
4. Remove the EGR valve retaining bolts. and all connecting hoses. Reconnect the hose to
The diesel EGR systems work in the same
5. Remove the EGR valve. Discard the the MAN port. Connect a vacuum gauge to the
basic manner as gasoline engine EGR systems:
gasket. BIST port on the VMV. The vacuum reading
exhaust gases are introduced into the
6. Buff the exhaust deposits from the should be 12 in.Hg except on High Altitude cars,
combustion chambers to reduce combustion
mounting surface and around the valve using a which should be 9 in.Hg.
temperatures, and thus lower the formation of
wire wheel.
nitrogen oxides (NOx).
7. Remove deposits from the valve outlet.
Vacuum from the vacuum pump is modulated
8. Clean the mounting surfaces of the intake
by the Vacuum Regulator Valve (VRV) mounted Emission Service Light
manifold and valve assembly.
on the injection pump.
To install: An emissions indicator flag may appear in the
The amount of EGR valve opening is further
9. Install a new EGR gasket. odometer window of the speedometer on some
modulated by a Vacuum Modulator Valve (VMV).
10. Install the EGR valve to the manifold. vehicles. The flag could say “Sensor”,
The VMV allows for an increase in vacuum to the
11. Install the retaining bolts and torque to 16 “Emissions” or “Catalyst” depending on the
EGR valve as the throttle is closed, up to the
ft. ibs. (22 Nm). switching point of the VMV. The system also part or assembly that is scheduled for regular
12. Connect the wiring and hoses. employs an RVR valve. emissions maintenance replacement. The word
13. Install the air cleaner assembly. “Sensor” indicates a need for oxygen sensor
In 1985, the EGR valve was moved to the rear
14. Connect the negative battery cable. of the engine and has become electronically replacement and the words “Emissions” or
controlled. “Catalyst” indicate the need for catalytic
3.1 L (VINT) Engine converter catalyst replacement.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. ,
2. Disconnect the electrical connector at the
BASIC COMPONENT
solenoid. RESETTING
3. Remove the 2 base-to-flange bolts. TESTING
4. Remove the digital EGR valve.
To Install: 1. Remove the instrument panel trim plate.
5. Install the digital EGR valve. Vacuum Regulator Valve (VRV) 2. Remove the instrument cluster lens.
6. Install the 2 base-to-fiange bolts. Tighten 3. Locate the flag indicator reset notches at
The VRV is attached to the side of the injection
to 22 ft. Ibs. (30 Nm). the drivers side of the odometer.
pump and regulates vacuum in proportion to
7. Connect the negative battery cable. throttle angle. Vacuum from the vacuum pump is 4. Use a pointed tool to apply light downward
supplied to port A and vacuum at port B (see pressure on the notches, until the indicator is
illustration) is reduced as the throttle is opened. reset.
EGR SOLENOID At closed throttle the vacuum is 15 in.Hg; at half 5. When the indicator is reset an alignment
throttle, 6 in. (152mm); at wide open throttle mark will appear in the left center of the
there should be zero vacuum. odometer window.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Exhaust Gas Recirculation Valve

Apply vacuum to the vacuum port. The valve
should be fully open at 12 in.Hg and closed Service Interval
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. below 6 in. (152mm). Reminder Light
2. Remove the air cleaner, as required.
3. Disconnect the electrical connector at the Response Vacuum Reducer (RVR)
solenoid. Connect a vacuum gauge to the port marked
4. Disconnect the vacuum hoses. To EGR valve orTCC solenoid. Connect a hand
5. Remove the retaining bolts and the operated vacuum pump to the VRV port. Draw
RESETTING
solenoid. 15 in.Hg of vacuum on the pump and the reading
6. Remove the filter, as required. on the vacuum gauge should be lower than the If equipped, the SERVICE REMINDER section
To Install: vacuum pump reading by 0.75 in.. of the driver information center (DIC) display
7. If removed, install the filter. shows how many miles remain until service is
8. Install the solenoid and retaining bolts. Exhaust Pressure Regulator Valve
needed. When the RESET button is pressed
9. Connect the vacuum hoses. Apply vacuum to the vacuum port of the valve. twice, a type of service and number of miles
10. Connect the electrical connector. The valve should be fully closed at 12 in.Hg and remaining until the service is needed will be
11. If removed, install the air cleaner. open below 6 in. displayed. Each time the RESET button is
12. Connect the negative battery cable. pressed, another type of service and mile
Vacuum Modulator Valve (VMV)
remaining for it will be displayed.
To test the VMV, block the drive wheels, and With the ignition switch in the RUN, BULB,
apply tfe parking brake. With the shift lever in TEST or START position, voltage is applied from
Park, start the engine and run at a slow idle. the ECM fuse through a pinMblack wire to the
Connect a vacuum gauge to the hose that ECM. As the vehicle moves the speed sensor
connects to the port marked MAN. There
4-14 EMISSION CONTROLS
sends pulses to the ECM. The ECM then sends • Do not drop or roughly handle the oxygen
signals to the speed input of the DIG module. The Oxygen Sensor sensor.
DIC module converts these pulses to miles. The • The oxygen sensor may be difficult to
module then subtracts the miles travelled from The exhaust oxygen sensor or 02 sensor is remove if the engine temperature is below 120°F
the distance on the DIC display. All four types of mounted in the exhaust stream where it monitors
(48°C). Excessive force may damage the
service can be displayed at the same time. oxygen content in the exhaust gas. The oxygen threads in the exhaust manifold or exhaust pipe.
To reset the service light ti will be necessary content in the exhaust is a measure of the air/fuel
to subtract the mileage from the service interval mixture going into the engine. The oxygen in the
light that is illuminated. The miles remaining for exhaust reacts with the oxygen sensor to REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
a certain type of service can be decreased by produce a voltage which is read by the ECM. The
holding the RESET button, the miles remaining voltage output is very low, ranging from 0.1 volt
t SEE FIG. 13
will be decreased in steps of 500 miles every 5 in a high oxygen-lean mixture condition to 0.9
The oxygen sensor must be replaced every
seconds. If the RESET button is held in and the volt in a low oxygen-rich mixture condition.
30,000 miles (48,000 km.). The sensor may be
miles remaining reach zero, the DIC display will Testing the oxygen sensor without the use of difficult to remove when the engine temperature
show the service interval for the service special scan tools to observe its operation is is below 120°F (48°C). Excessive removal force
selected. The service intervals are; oil change difficult. The oxygen sensor should not be may damage the threads in the exhaust manifold
7500 miles; oil filter 7500 miles, next filter condemned because of a Code 44 or 45. These or pipe; follow the removal procedure carefully.
15,000 miles; rotate tires 7500 miles, next rotate codes tell you the oxygen sensor is seeing a 1. Locate the oxygen sensor, it protrudes
15,000 miles; tune-up 30,000 miles. constant rich or leak mixture. This code is from the center of the exhaust manifold at the
If the RESET button is still held down, the usually not due to a bad oxygen sensor. A rich front of the engine compartment (it looks
miles will decrease in steps of 500 miles from mixture could be a dirty air filter, stuck choke, somewhat like a spark plug).
the service interval. When the RESET button is leaking injector, bum valve or other problems. A 2. Disconnect the electrical connector from
released, the mile display shown will be the new lean mixture could be a vacuum leak, low fuel the oxygen sensor.
distance until the service should be performed. pressure or even a bad spark plug wire. Follow 3. Spray a commercial heat riser solvent onto
When the service distance reaches zero, the the proper charts to test the components.
the sensor threads and allow it to soak in for at
service reminder item will be displayed. If the least five minutes.
service interval is reset within 10 miles the 4. Carefully unscrew and remove the sensor.
display will go out immediately. If more than 10 PRECAUTIONS 5. To install, first coat the new sensor’s
miles passes before the service interval is reset, threads with G.M. anti-seize compound No.
the item will remain displayed for another 10 • Careful handling of the oxygen sensor is 5613695 or the equivalent. This is not a
miles after begin reset before going out. essential. conventional anti-seize paste. The use of a
On some models It may be regular compound may electrically insulate the
• The electrical pigtail and connector are
necessary to depress the SYSTEM sensor, rendering it inoperative. You must coat
permanently attached and should not be
RECALL button In order to display the threads with an electrically conductive anti¬
removed from the oxygen sensor.
the service interval light on the seize compound.
• The in-line electrical connector and
driver information center In order 6. Installation torque is 30 ft. lbs. (42 Nm.).
louvered end of the oxygen sensor must be kept
to be able to decrease mileage Do not overtighten.
free of grease, dirt and other contaminants.
from to reset the Interval light 7. Reconnect the electrical connector. Be
• Avoid using cleaning solvents of any type
careful not to damage the electrical pigtail.
on the oxygen sensor.
Check the sensor boot for proper fit and
installation.
Service Engine Soon
Light

RESETTING

The SES light or Check Engine light will light if

an engine or emission problem is detected. If an
emission problem is detected the computer will
store a code for that fault. If the fault goes away
or is repair the light will go out, but the code will L-4 ENGINE
1. Exhaust manifold
remain in memory. If the problem returns or is 2. Engine harness
not repair the light will not go out and can not be 3. Terminal (Wiring harness) v-6 ENGINE

reset. When the problem goes away the light 4. Oxygen sensor
goes out.
FIG.13 Oxygen sensor installation
 EMISSION CONTROLS 4-15
ELECTRONIC ENGINE CONTROL SYSTEMS

There are 3 basic fuel control systems used oxygen sensor cold), the oxygen sensor has no Loop operation. Closed loop conditions deliver a
on the General Motors A-Body cars. The effect on the air/fuel mixture. 14.7:1 air/fuel mixture to the engine. This makes
feedback carburetor vehicles use a system On some engines, the oxygen it possible for the converter to act upon all 3 of
called Computer Command Control (CCC) sensor will cool off while the engine the major pollutants in an efficient and effective
System. The other two systems are fuel injection is idling, putting the system Into manner, consider, however, what happens in the
systems. One system is called Throttle Body open loop operation. To restore morning when it’s cold and the vehicle is started,
Injection (TBI), this system uses an injected built closed loop operation, run the if the system where to keep the air/fuel mixture
into the throttle body. Throttle body injected engine at part throttle and to the 14.7:1 air/fuel ratio when it’s cold the
vehicle appear very much like carbureted accelerate from Idle to part throttle chances are that the engine wouldn’t run .very
vehicles, but you’ll notice there is no choke. The a few times. well. When the engine is cold, it has to have a
third system is Multi-Port Injected (MPI) richer mixture. An automatic choke is used to
Systems. This MPI system has an injector The basic system block diagram shows the give the engine a richer mixture until it is up to
mounted in the intake manifold at each intake catalytic converter located in the exhaust system normal operating temperature, during this time,
valve. There is one injector for each cylinder. close to the engine. It is ahead of the muffler and the 02 sensor signals are ignored by the ECM.
tailpipe. If the converter is to do its job A temperature sensor is located in the water
effectively, the engine must receive an air/fuel jacket of the engine and connected to the
mixture of approximately 14.7:1. electronic control module. When the engine is
Feedback Carburetor The carburetor mixes air and gasoline into a cold, the temperature sensor will tell the ECM to
combustible mixture before delivering it to the
and Computer Control engine. However, carburetors have reached a
ignore the oxygen sensor signal, since the
sensor is too cold to operate. The electronic
(CCC) System point where they can no longer control the air/ control module then tells the carburetor to
fuel mixture sufficiently close to the ideal 14.7:1 deliver a richer mixture based upon what has
The CCC system monitors engine and vehicle ratio for most operating conditions. Therefore, a already been programmed into the ECM. The
operating conditions which it uses to control different type of control must be used on the ECM will also use information from other
engine and emission control systems. This carburetor, something that has never been used sensors during cold start operation.
system controls engine operation and lowers the before. After the engine has been running for some
exhaust emissions while maintaining good fuel An electric solenoid in the carburetor controls time and has reached normal operating
economy and driveability. The Electronic Control the air/fuel ratio. The solenoid is connected to an temperature, the temperature sensor will signal
Module (ECM) is the brain of the CCC system. electronic module (ECM) which is an on board the ECM that the engine is warm and it can
The ECM controls engine related systems computer. The ECM provides a controlling signal accept the oxygen sensor signal. If other system
constantly adjusting the engine operation. In to the solenoid. The solenoid controls the requirements are met, closed loop operations
addition to maintaining the ideal air/fuel ratio for metering rod(s) and an idle air bleed valve to begins. The oxygen sensor will then influence the
the catalytic converter and adjusting ignition closely control the air/fuel ration throughout the ECM as to what mixture it should deliver to the
timing, the CCC system also controls the Air operating range of the engine. However, since engine. In addition to these 2 conditions, there
Management System so that the catalytic the engine operates under a wide variety of are 3 other conditions which affect the air/fuel
converter can operate at the highest efficiency conditions, the computer must be told what mixture delivered to the engine. First is the load
possible. The system also controls the lockup on those conditions are. This is so that it will know that is placed upon the engine. When an engine
the transmission torque converter clutch, adjusts what to tell the carburetor solenoid to do. is working hard, such as pulling a heavy load up
idle speed over a wide range of conditions, A sensor is located in the exhaust stream a long grade, it requires a richer air/fuel mixture.
purges the evaporative emissions charcoal close to the engine. It’s known as an oxygen This is different from a vehicle that is operating
canister, controls the EGR valve operation and sensor or usually refer to as the oxygen (02) in a cruise condition on a level highway at a
operates the Early Fuel Evaporative (EFE) sensor. This sensor functions when the engine’s constant rate of speed.
system. Not all engines use all of the above sub¬ exhaust temperature rises above 600°F (315°C). Manifold vacuum is used to determine engine
systems. There is a direct relationship between the mixture load. A manifold pressure sensor is connected to
The CCC system is primarily an emission delivered by the carburetor and the amount of the intake manifold. It detects changes in the
control system, designed to maintain a 14.7:1 oxygen left in the exhaust gases. The 02 sensor manifold pressure which are signalled to the
air/fuel ratio under all operating conditions. can determine whether the exhaust is too rich or ECM. As changes occur, the load placed upon
When this ideal air/fuel ratio is maintained the too lean. It sends a varying voltage signal to the the engine varies. The ECM takes this varying
catalytic converter can control oxides of nitrogen ECM. signal into account when determining what
(NOx), hydrocarbon (HC) and carbon monoxide The ECM will then signal the mixture control mixture the carburetor should be delivering to the
(CO) emissions. solenoid to deliver richer or leaner mixture for engine. The next condition in determining what
There are 2 operation modes for CCC system: the current engine operating conditions. As the air/fuel mixture should be is the amount of
closed loop and open loop fuel control. Closed carburetor makes a change, the 02 sensor will throttle opening. The more throttle opening at any
loop fuel control means the oxygen sensor is sense that change and signal the ECM whether given time, the richer the mixture required by the
controlling the carburetor’s air/fuel mixture ratio. or not it’s too rich or too lean. The ECM will then engine. On most applications a Throttle Position
Under open loop fuel control operating make a correction, if necessary. This goes on Sensor (TPS) in the carburetor sends a signal to
conditions (wide open throttle, engine and/or continually and is what we refer to as Closed the ECM. It tells the ECM the position of the
4-16 EMISSION CONTROLS

SIGNAL

FIG.16 Computer command control system schematic

throttle, whether it it at idle, part throttle, wide CCC SYSTEM This could be turning the EGR system on as the
open or whatever condition that exists in engine warms up. If however, the voltage or the
COMPONENTS time interval is not correct, the ECM will also
between.
The last condition, which has a bearing on the recognize this. It will not perform its function and
mixture that the engine would require, is the in most cases turn the "CHECK ENGINE” or
speed the engine is running. Certainly when an ELECTRONIC CONTROL MODULE (ECM) "SERVICE ENGINE SOON” light on.
engine is operating at 600 rpm, it doesn’t need The ECM is a reliable solid state computer, The other CCC components include the
as much gasoline as it does when it is operating protected in a metal box. It is used to monitor- oxygen sensor, an electronically controlled
at 4000 rpm. Therefore, a tachometer signal and control all the functions of the CCC system variable-mixture carburetor, a 3-way catalytic
from the distributor is delivered to the ECM. This and is located in on the passenger side kick converter, throttle position and coolant sensors,
tells the ECM how fast the engine is running. This panel. The ECM can perform several on-car a barometric pressure (BARO) sensor, a
signal will also be taken into consideration when functions at the same time and has the ability to manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor, a
the ECM decides what mixture the carburetor diagnose itself as well as other CCC system "CHECK ENGINE” light on the instrument cluster
should be delivering to the engine. In the typical circuits. and an Electronic Spark Timing (EST) distributor,
CCC system, the ECM will use various inputs to The ECM performs the functions of an on and which on some engines is equipped with an
make decisions that will best control the off switch. It can send a voltage signal to a Electronic Spark Control (ESC) which retards
operation of the mixture control solenoid for circuit or connect a circuit to ground at a precise ignition spark under some conditions
maximum system efficiency. time. Programmed into the ECM’s memory are (detonation, etc.).
voltage and time values. These valves will differ Other components used by the CCC system
from engine to engine. As an example then, if the include the Air Injection Reaction (AIR)
ECM sees a proper voltage value for the correct Management System, charcoal canister purge
length of time it will perform a certain function. solenoid, EGR valve control, vehicle speed
 EMISSION CONTROLS 4-17
sensor (located in the instrument cluster), to load conditions and will lower the idle speed The air valve and metering rods control the
transmission torque converter clutch solenoid under no-load or low-load conditions to air/fuel metering in the secondary bores. A pair
(automatic transmission models only), idle conserve gasoline. of tapered metering rods are attached to a
speed control and Early Fuel Evaporative (EFE) The Early Fuel Evaporative (EFE) system is hanger, which operates by cam action resulting
system. used on most engines to provide rapid heat to from the air valve angle and provides the
The CCC system ECM, in addition to the engine induction system to promote smooth additional fuel flow necessary during increased
monitoring sensors and sending a control signal start-up and operation. There are 2 types of engine air flow at wide open throttle.
to the carburetor, also controls the charcoal system: vacuum servo and electrically heated. The carburetor model identification number is
canister purge, AIR Management System, fuel They use different means to achieve the same stamped vertically on the float bowl, near the
control, idle speed control, idle air control, end, which is to pre-heat the incoming air/fuel secondary throttle lever. The letters in the model
automatic transmission converter clutch lockup, mixture. They may or may not be controlled by name describe the specific features of the
distributor ignition timing, EGR valve control, EFE the ECM. carburetor. For example:
control, air conditioner compressor clutch A/C Wide Open Throttle (WOT) Control, on 1. E - It is electronically controlled.
operation, electric fuel pump and the “CHECK this system the ECM controls the A/C 2. 4M - It is a member of the Quadrajet
. ENGINE” light. compressor clutch to disengage the clutch carburetor family.
The AIR Management System is an emission during hard acceleration. On some engines, the 3. C - It has an integral hot air choke.
control which provides additional oxygen either ECM disengages the clutch during the engine If the carburetor number has an
to the catalyst or the exhaust manifold. An AIR start-up on a warm engine. The WOT contTol is “E” at the end (like E4ME) of It, that
Management System, composed of an air not installed on all engines. carburetor has an integral Electric
switching valve and/or an air control valve, Electronic Spark Control (ESC), on this Choke.
controls the air pump flow and is itself controlled system the ECM controls the spark timing on
by the ECM. The AIR system uses vacuum certain engines to allow the engine to have For Carburetor repair, overhaul or adjustment,
operated, ECM controlled (grounds to complete maximum spark advance without spark knock. refer to procedures covered in Section 5 Fuel
the circuit and energize the solenoids) valves to This improves the driveability and fuel economy. Systems.
control the AIR switching. The 5.0L (VIN Y) This system is not used on all engines.
engine uses an Electric Air Switching and Shift Light Control, on some vehicles, the
Electric Divert Valve (EAS and EDV) 2 valve ECM controls a shift light, to indicate the best DIAGNOSTIC AND TESTING
system, while the 5.7L (VIN H) and 5.0L (VINs 6 manual transmission shift point for maximum
and G) use and Electric Divert/Air Switching fuel economy. This control is not used on all
Valve (EDES) system, that combines the engines. The following explains how to
functions of both valves. activate the trouble code signal
The charcoal canister purge control is an light in the Instrument cluster and
electrically operated solenoid valve controlled by gives an explanation of what each
ROCHESTER FEEDBACK code means. This is not a full CCC
the ECM. When energized, the purge control
solenoid blocks vacuum from reaching the CARBURETORS system troubleshooting and
canister purge valve. When the ECM de¬ isolation procedure.
energizes the purge control solenoid, vacuum is These carburetors are all basically the same Before suspecting the CCC system or any of
allowed to reach the canister and operate the except that the E2ME and E4ME uses an its components as faulty, check the ignition
purge valve. This releases the fuel vapors electrically heated choke and the E4MC uses an system including distributor, timing, spark plugs
collected in the canister into the induction integral hot air choke. Both the E4ME and the and wires. Check the engine compression, air
system. E4MC are 4 barrel, 2 stage Quadrajet design. cleaner and emission control components not
The EGR valve control solenoid is activated by While the E2ME and E2MC are 2 barrel single controlled by the ECM. Also check the intake
the ECM in similar fashion to the canister purge stage design. All carburetors are used with the manifold, vacuum hoses and hose connectors
solenoid. When the engine is cold, the ECM Computer Command Control (CCC) System of for leaks and the carburetor bolts for tightness.
energizes the solenoid, which blocks the vacuum fuel control. All Rochester carburetors consist of The following symptoms could indicate a
signal to the EGR valve. When the engine is 3 major assemblies: the air horn, the float bowl possible problem with the CCC system.
warm, the ECM de-energizes the solenoid and and the throttle body. They have 6 basic 1. Detonation
the vacuum signal is allowed to reach and operating systems: float, idle, main metering, 2. Stalls or rough idle - cold
activate the EGR valve. power, pump and choke. 3. Stalls or rough idle - hot
The Transmission Converter Clutch (TCC) A single float chamber supplies fuel to the 4 4. Missing
lock is controlled by the ECM through an carburetor bores. A closed-cell rubber float, 5. Hesitation
electrical solenoid in the automatic transmission. brass needle seat and a rubber tipped float valve 6. Surges
When the vehicle speed sensor in the instrument with pull clip, are used to control fuel level in the 7. Poor gasoline mileage
panel signals the ECM that the vehicle has float chamber. An electrically operated mixture 8. Sluggish or spongy performance
reached the correct speed, the ECM energizes control solenoid, mounted in the float bowl, is 9. Hard starting - cold
the solenoid which allows the torque converter used to control the air and fuel mixture in the 10. Objectionable exhaust odors (rotten egg
to mechanically couple the engine to the primary bores of the carburetor. The plunger in smell)
transmission. When the brake pedal is pushed or the solenoid is controlled (or pulsed) by 11. Cuts out
during deceleration, passing, etc., the ECM electrical signals received from the Electronic 12. Improper idle speed
returns the transmission to fluid drive. Control Module (ECM).
The idle speed control adjusts the idle speed
4-18 EMISSION CONTROLS
As a bulb and system check, the “CHECK Not all models have such a fuse. Connecting the Dwellmeter
ENGINE" light will come on when the ignition First set the dwellmeter on the 6 cylinder
switch is turned to the ON position but the position, then connect it to the M/C solenoid
engine is not started. The “CHECK ENGINE" light CCC SYSTEM CIRCUIT dwell lead to measure the output of the ECM. Do
will also produce the trouble code or codes by a not allow the terminal to touch ground, this
series of flashes which translate as follows.
DIAGNOSIS
includes any hoses. The dwellmeter must be set
When the diagnostic test terminal under the dash to the 6 cylinder position when diagnosing all
is grounded, with the ignition in the ON position To diagnosis CCC system circuits, use the engines, whether working on is a 4,6, or 8
and the engine not running, the “CHECK same general troubleshooting approach that is cylinder engine.
ENGINE” light will flash once, pause, then flash used for other automotive electrical systems.
twice in rapid succession. This is a code 12, Some older dwellmeters may not
Finding the fault in a CCC circuit will require the
which indicates that the diagnostic system is work properly on CCC. Don’t use
testing tools described in this section, these
working. After a long pause, the code 12 will tools are used with the diagnostic charts for CCC
any dwellmeter which causes a
repeat itself 2 more times. The cycle will then system troubleshooting. Always use a digital
change in engine operation when It
repeat itself until the engine is STARTED or voltmeter for accuracy of readings when using
is connected to the solenoid lead.
the ignition is turned OFF. CCC diagnostic charts. The 6 cylinder scale on the dwellmeter
When the engine is started, the “CHECK provides evenly divided points, for example:
ENGINE” light will remain on for a few seconds, Testing the CCC System a. 15 degrees = Va scale
then turn off. If the “CHECK ENGINE” light Performance with a Dwellmeter b. 30 degrees = midscale
remains on, the self-diagnostic system has The dwellmeter is used to analyze the c. 45 degrees = 3A scale
detected a problem. If the test terminal is then operation of the M/C solenoid circuit. The Connect the positive clip lead of the
grounded, the trouble code will flash 3 times. If operation of that circuit is controlled by the ECM, dwellmeter to the M/C solenoid pigtail
more than a single problem is found, each which used information from the sensors. connector shown in. Attach the other
trouble code will flash 3 times. Trouble codes A chart called the “System Performance dwellmeter clip lead to ground. Do not allow
will flash in numerical order (lowest code Check” is provided in the section. This chart the clip leads to contact other conductive
number to highest). The trouble codes series will provides step-by-step instructions to determine cables or hoses which could interfere with
repeat as long as the test terminal is grounded. if the M/C control solenoid circuit, ECM and accurate readings.
A trouble code indicates a problem with a various sensors (M/C control system) are After connecting the dwellmeter to a warm,
given circuit. For example, trouble code 14 functioning properly. If they are not, the chart operating engine, the dwell at idle and part
indicates a problem in the cooling sensor circuit. indicates the steps to take in order to locate and throttle will vary between 5-55 degrees. That is,
This includes the coolant sensor, its electrical repair the source of the trouble. the needle will move continuously up and down
harness and the Electronic Control Module Charts for the other systems, such as AIR, the scale. Needle movement indicates that the
(ECM). Since the self-diagnostic system cannot EST, EGR, EFE, TCC and canister purge are also engine is in closed loop and that the dwell is
diagnose every possible fault in the system, the provided in the section. Another chart called the being varied by signals from the ECM. However,
absence of a trouble code does not mean the “Diagnostic Circuit Check” follows the system if the engine is cold, has just been restarted, or
system is trouble-free. To determine problems performance check. This chart is the starting the throttle is wide open, the dwell will be fixed
within the system which do not activate a trouble point for any diagnosis. and the needle wil! be steady. Those are signs
code, a system performance check must be The dwellmeter is used to diagnose the M/C that the engine is in open loop.
made. control system. Connect a dwellmeter to the Diagnostic checks to find a condition without
In the case of an intermittent fault in the pigtail connector in the M/C solenoid wiring a trouble code are usually made on a warm
system, the “CHECK ENGINE” light will go out harness. In the old contact point style ignition engine (in closed loop) as indicated by a hot
when the fault goes away, but the trouble code system, the dwellmeter read the period of time upper radiator hose. There are 3 ways of
will remain in the memory of the ECM. Therefore, that the points were closed (dwell) and voltage distinguishing open from closed loop operation.
it a trouble code can be obtained even though the flowed to the ignition coil. 1. A variation in dwell will occur only in
“CHECK ENGINE” light is not on, the trouble In the CCC system the dwellmeter is used to closed loop.
code must be evaluated. It must be determined read the time that the ECM closed the M/C 2. Test for closed loop operation. Cause the
if the fault is intermittent or if the engine must be solenoid circuit to ground, allowing voltage to mixture to become richer, by restricting the air
at certain operating conditions (under load, etc.) operate the M/C solenoid. Dwell, as used in CCC flow through into the carburetor or manually
before the “CHECK ENGINE” light will come on. system performance diagnosis, is the time that closing the choke. If the dwellmeter moves up
Some trouble codes will not be recorded in the the M/C solenoid circuit is closed (or energized). scale, that indicates closed loop.
ECM until the engine has been operated at part The dwellmeter will translate this time into 3. If a large vacuum leak is created and the
throttle for about 5-18 minutes. On the CCC degrees. The 6 cylinder (0-60 degree) scale on dwell drops down, that also indicates closed
system, a trouble code will be stored until the dwellmeter is used for this reading. The loop.
terminal R of the ECM has been disconnected ability of the dwellmeter to perform this kind of
from the battery for 10 seconds. conversion makes it an ideal tool to check the Reading the Dwellmeter
An easy way to erase the computer memory amount of time the ECM.’s internal switch is The M/C solenoid moves the metering rods up
on the CCC system is to disconnect the battery closed, thus energizing the M/C solenoid. The and down 10 times per second. This frequency
terminals from the battery.lf this method is used, only difference is that the degree scale on the was chosen to be slow enough to allow full stop-
don’t forget to reset clocks and electronic meter is more like the percent of solenoid ON to-stop M/C solenoid travel, but fast enough to
preprogrammable radios. Another method is to time rather than actual degrees of dwell. prevent any undesirable influence on vehicle
remove the fuse marked ECM in the fuse panel! response.
 EMISSION CONTROLS 4-19
The duration of the on period determines sensor may cool below its operational If a Code 51 flashes, use chart 51 to diagnose
whether the mixture is rich (mostly up) or lean temperature during prolonged idling. This will that condition before proceeding with the
(mostly down). When the metering rods are cause an open loop condition and make the Diagnostic Circuit Check. A Code 51 means that
down for a longer period (54 degrees) than they diagnostic chart information not usable during the “CHECK ENGINE” or “SERVICE ENGINE
are up (6 degrees), a lean mixture results. diagnosis. Engine rpm must be increased to SOON” light flashes 5 times, pauses, then
As the solenoid on-time changes, the up time warm the exhaust oxygen sensor and re¬ flashes once. After a longer pause, code 51 will
and down time of the metering rods also establish closed loop, diagnosis should begin flash again twice in this same way. To find out
changes. When a lean mixture is desired, the M/ again at the first step on the chart after closed what diagnostic step to follow, look up the chart
C solenoid will restrict fuel flow through the loop is resumed. for Code 51 in this section. If there is not a Code
metering jet 90% of the time, or, in other words, 51, follow the “No Code 51" branch of the chart.
a lean mixture will be provided to the engine. Clear the ECM memory by disconnecting the
This lean command will read as 54 degrees DIAGNOSTIC PROCEDURES voltage lead either at the fuse panel or the ECM
on the dwellmeter (54 degrees is 90% of 60 letter connector for 10 seconds. This clears any
degrees). This means the M/C solenoid has codes remaining from previous repairs, or codes
restricted fuel flow 90% of the time. A rich The following is a complete diagnosis for troubles not present at this time. Remember,
mixture is provided when the M/C solenoid sequence of the CCC system. In all cases, the even though a code is stored, if the trouble is not
restricts fuel flow only 10% of the time and sequence is begun with routine engine checks. present the diagnostic charts cannot be used.
allows a rich mixture to flow to the engine. A rich Then the following: The charts are designed only to locate present
command will have a dwellmeter reading of 6 1. System diagnostic circuit check faults.
degrees (10% of 60 degrees); the M/C solenoid 2. Code chart or chart for systems without
codes
p+ When erasing the computer
has restricted fuel flow 10% of the time.
3. System performance check
memory on the CCC system the
On some engines dwellmeter readings can ignition switch must be turned OFF
vary between 5-55 degrees, rather than between This procedure must be followed each time
the CCC system is suspected as the cause of a
before removing any fuses, wire
6-54 degrees. The ideal mixture would be connectors or battery cables. If the
shown on the dwellmeter with the needle varying problem.
battery cable Is to disconnect from
or swinging back and forth, anywhere between Diagnostic Charts the battery, don’t forget to reset
10-50 degrees. Varying means the needle clocks and electronic
The section contains tree-type charts for
continually moves up and down the scale. The preprogrammable radios.
locating the source of a fault in the CCC system
amount it moves does not matter, only the fact
circuits. When using a tree chart, always start at Next, remove the TEST terminal ground, set
that it does move. The dwell is being varied by
the first step and follow the sequence from top to the parking brake and put the transmission in P.
the signal sent to the ECM by the oxygen sensor
bottom. Often there will be several branches of Run the warm engine for several minutes,
in the exhaust manifold.
the tree to follow. Follow the branch that is making sure it is run at the specified curb idle.
Under certain operating conditions such as
applicable to the result obtained in that step. Then, if the “CHECK ENGINE” or “SERVICE
Wide Open Throttle (WOT), or a cold engine, the
Several charts will be used during diagnosis and ENGINE SOON” light comes on while the engine
dwell will remain fixed and the needle will be
this procedure will be used in all cases. is idling, ground the TEST lead again and
steady. Remember, a low dwellmeter reading (5-
10 degrees) indicates the ECM signal to the M/C The CCC system should not be observe (count) the flashing trouble code.
considered as a possible source of If the “CHECK ENGINE” or “SERVICE ENGINE
control solenoid is a rich command, while 55
poor engine performance, fuel SOON” light does not come on, check the codes
degrees would indicate a lean command.
economy, or excessive emissions which were recorded earlier. If there were no
Open and Closed Loop Operation until all the routine engine checks, additional codes, road test the vehicle for the
such as ignition, plugs, air cleaner problem being diagnosed to make sure it still
Two terms are often used when referring to
and vacuum hoses, have been exists.
CCC system operation. They are closed loop and
made. The purpose of the Diagnostic Circuit check is
open loop.
to make sure the “CHECK ENGINE” or
Basically, closed loop indicates that the ECM
“SERVICE SOON SOON” light works, that the
is using information from the exhaust oxygen SYSTEM DIAGNOSTIC ECM is operating and can recognize a fault and
sensor to influence operation of the mixture
CIRCUIT CHECK to determine if any trouble codes are stored in
control (M/C) solenoid, the ECM still considers
the ECM memory.
other information, such as engine temperature,
If trouble codes are stored, it also checks to
rpm, barometric and manifold pressure and Begin the Diagnostic Circuit Check by making
see if they indicate an intermittent problem. This
throttle position, along with the exhaust oxygen sure that the diagnostic system itself is working.
is the starting point of any diagnosis. If there are
sensor information. Turn the ignition to ON with the engine stopped.
no codes stored, move on to the System
During open loop, all information except the If the "CHECK ENGINE” or "SERVICE ENGINE
Performance Check.
exhaust oxygen sensor input is considered by SOON” light comes on, ground the diagnostic
The codes obtained from the “CHECK
the ECM to control the M/C solenoid. The code terminal (test lead) under the dash. If the
ENGINE” or “SERVICE ENGINE SOON” light
diagnostic charts are based on a warmed up “CHECK ENGINE” or “SERVICE ENGINE SOON”
display method indicate which diagnostic charts
engine (closed loop operation) and will generally light flashes Code 12, the self-diagnostic system
provide in the section are to be used. For
state, run engine at part throttle for 3 minutes or is working and can detect a faulty circuit. If there
example, code 23 can be diagnosed by following
until there is a varying dwellmeter indication is no Code 12, see the appropriate chart in this
the step-by-step procedures on chart 23.
before beginning diagnosis. section. If any additional codes flash, record
It is important to note that the exhaust oxygen them for later use.
4-20 EMISSION CONTROLS
If more than a single code Is turn off. If the Check Engine light remains on, the r+ Ground the test terminal

stored in the ECM, the lowest code self-diagnostic system has detected a problem. according to the instructions given
number must be diagnosed first, If the test terminal is then grounded, the trouble previously In the Basic
then proceed to the next highest code will flash (3) three times. If more than one Troubleshooting section.
code. The only exception Is when a problem is found to be in existence, each trouble
50 series flashes. 50 series code code will flash (3) three times and then change
CARBURETOR COMPONENT
take precedence over all other to the next one. Trouble codes will flash in
trouble codes and must be dealt numerical order (lowest code number to TESTING
with first, since they point to a fault highest). The trouble code series will repeat
in the PROM unit or the ECM. themselves for as long as the test terminal
remains grounded. Electric Choke
A trouble code indicates a problem with a Check the choke unloader and idle setting
given circuit. For example, trouble code 14 adjustments. The choke linkage and fast idle
SERVICE indicates a problem in the coolant sensor circuit. cam must operate freely. Bent, dirty or otherwise
This includes the coolant sensor, its electrical damaged linkage must be cleaned, repaired or
Before suspecting the CCC system, or any of harness and the Electronic Control Module replaced as necessary. Do not lubricate linkage
its components as being faulty, check the (ECM). since lubricant will collect dust and cause
ignition system (distributor, timing, spark plugs Since the self-diagnostic system cannot sticking.
and wires). Check the engine compression, the diagnose every possible fault in the system, the 1. Allow the choke to cool so that when the
air cleaner and any of the emission control absence of a trouble code does not necessarily throttle is opened slightly, the choke blade fully
components that are not controlled by the ECM. mean that the system is trouble-free. To closes.
Also check the intake manifold, the vacuum determine whether or not a problem with the 2. Start the engine and determine the time for
hoses and hose connectors for any leaks. Check system exists that does not activate a trouble the choke blade to reach the full open position.
the carburetor mounting bolts for tightness. code, a system performance check must be 3. If the the choke blade fails to open fully
The following symptoms could indicate a made. You can follow the symptom charts for within 3.5 minutes, proceed with Step 4 and 5
possible problem area with the CCC system: the fuel system your car has. If the chart doesn’t below.
1. Detonation. help you find the problem or instructs you to 4. Check the voltage at the choke heater
2. Stalling or rough idling when the engine is more involved testing using special tool you may connection (engine must be running):
cold. wish to seek a qualified service technician. a. If the voltage is approximately 12-15
3. Stalling or rough idling when the engine is Guessing which component to test or testing a volts, replace the electric choke unit.
component incorrectly can be very expensive. b. If the voltage is low or zero, check ail
hot.
4. Missing. In the case of an intermittent fault in the wires and connections. If any connections in
5. Hesitation. system, the Check Engine light will go out when the oil pressure switch circuitry are faulty, or
the fault goes away, but the trouble code will if pressure switch is failed open, the oil
6. Surging.
remain in the memory of the ECM. Therefore, if warning light will be on with the engine
7. Poor gasoline mileage.
a trouble code can be obtained even though the
8. Sluggish or spongy performance. running. Repair wires or connectors as
Check Engine light is not on, it must still be
9. Hard starting when engine is cold required.
evaluated. It must be determined if the fault Is
10. Hard starting when the engine is hot. 5. If Steps 4a and 4b do not correct the
intermittent or if the engine must be operating
11. Objectionable exhaust odors. problem, replace oil pressure switch. No
under certain conditions (acceleration,
12. Engine cuts out. gasket is used between the choke cover and
deceleration, etc.) before the Check Engine light
13. Improper idle speed the choke housing due to grounding
will come on. In some cases, certain trouble
requirements.
As a bulb and system check, the Check codes will not be recorded in the ECM until the
Engine light will come on when the ignition engine has been operated at part throttle for at Hot Air Choke
switch is turned to the ON position but the engine least 5 to 18 minutes.
1. With the parking brake applied and the
is not started. On the CCC system, a trouble code will be
drive wheels blocked, place the transmission in
The Check Engine light will also produce the stored until the terminal R at the ECM has been
P or N, start the engine and allow it to warm up.
trouble code/codes by a series of flashes which disconnected from the battery for at least 10
Visually check to be sure the choke valve fully
translate as follows: When the diagnostic test seconds, or the battery cable has be removed.
opens.
terminal under the instrument panel is grounded,
2. If the choke fails to open fully,
with the ignition in the ON position and the engine
momentarily touch the choke housing and the
not running, the Check Engine light will flash ACTIVATING THE TROUBLE hot air inlet pipe or hose, to determine if
once, pause, and then flash twice in rapid CODE sufficient heat is reaching the choke stat.
succession. This is a Code 12, which indicates
that the diagnostic system is working. After a
long pause, the Code 12 will repeat itself two On the CCC system, locate the test terminal ** CAUTION
more times. This whole cycle will then repeat under the instrument panel (see illustration). Use
itself until the engine is started or the ignition a jumper wire and ground only the lead. The choke housing and the hot air
switch is turned OFF. inlet pipe or hose will be HOT to the
When the engine is started, the Check Engine touch, use caution to prevent
light will remain on for a few seconds and then burning of hands.
 EMISSION CONTROLS 4-21
4. Subtract the gauge up dimension from
gauge dimension. Record the difference. This
difference is total solenoid travel.
5. If total solenoid travel is not within yirVs
in. (1.6-3mm), perform the mixture control
solenoid adjustments. If the difference is within
VVain- (1-6-3mm), proceed to the idle air
bleed valve adjustment.
If adjustment is required, It will be
necessary to remove the air horn
and drive out the mixture control
solenoid screw plug from the under
side of the air horn.
Idle Load Compensator (ILC)
1. Inspect the condition of the tube cap
covering the access to plunger travel adjustment
2. Observe that the gauge moves freely and screw. If missing or damaged, the diaphragm
3. If the choke housing and or heat inlet are
cool to the touch, check for a loss of vacuum to does not bind. With the gauge released (solenoid chamber will lose vacuum.
in the up position), be sure to read it at eye level 2. Hold throttle lever half open, to allow ILC to
the housing, restricted heat inlet pipe in the
choke housing or choke heat pipe, or restricted and record the mark on the gauge that lines up extend fully.
with the top of the air horn casting (upper edge). 3. Apply finger pressure to the ILC plunger.
passages in the manifold choke heat stove. -
4. Replace or correct as necessary. 3. Lightly press down on the gauge until 4. Apply 20 in. Hg of vacuum to the ILC,
bottomed (solenoid in the down position). plunger should begin to retract. If not replace the
Float Level Record the mark on the gauge that lines up with ILC.
This is an external check procedure. 5. Observe vacuum gauge, vacuum should
the top of the air horn casting.
1. With engine idling and choke wide open, hold for at least 20 seconds, if not replace the
insert gauge J—34935—1, or equivalent, in vent ILC.
slot or vent hole. Allow the gauge to float freely. 6. Release vacuum from the ILC. The plunger
2. Observe the mark on the gauge that lines should extend, if not replace the ILC.
up with the top of the casting.
3. Setting should be within V16 in. (1.6mm) of
the specified float level setting. Pulse Air Injection
4. If not within specified range, check fuel
pressure. (PULSAIR)
5. If fuel pressure is correct, remove air horn
and adjust float. * SEE FIG. 15
All engines use the Pulsair air injection
Mixture Control Solenoid system, which uses exhaust system air pulses to
This is a mixture control solenoid travel test. siphon fresh air into the exhaust manifold. The
Before checking the mixture control solenoid injected air supports continued combustion of
travel, it may be necessary to modify the float the hot exhaust gases in the exhaust manifold,
gauge J—9789—130 or equivalent (used to reducing exhaust emissions. A secondary
externally check the float level).
This should be done by filing or grinding the
sufficient material off the gauge to allow for
insertion down the vertical D-shaped hole in the
air horn casting (located next to the idle air bleed
valve cover).
Check that the gauge freely enters the D-
shaped vent hole and does not bind. The gauge
will also be used to determine the total mixture
control solenoid travel.
With the engine off and the air cleaner
removed, measure the control solenoid travel as
follows:
1. Insert a modified float gauge J-9789—130
or equivalent down the D-shaped vent hole. FIG.17 Mixture control solenoid is located in
Press down on the gauge and release it. the carburetor. For poor idle or stalling check
that the tip Is not broken.
4-22 EMISSION CONTROLS
purpose of the Pulsair system is to introduce 5. Install the tubes to the exhaust manifold(s), prevent backfiring in the exhaust system during
more oxygen into the exhaust system upstream tightening the nuts to 10-13 ft. lbs. (10Nm.). deceleration. The normal position of the valve Is
of the catalytic converter, to supply the converter Connect the support bracket and solenoid and closed. When deceleration causes a sudden
with the oxygen required for the oxidation bracket, if used. Connect the rubber hose(s) and vacuum increase in the vacuum signal lines, the
reaction. install the air cleaner. pressure differential on the diaphragm will
Air is drawn into the Pulsair valve through a overcome the closing force of the spring,
hose connected to the air cleaner. The air passes opening the valve and bleeding air into the Intake
through a check valve (there is one check valve Deceleration Valve manifold.
for each cylinder; all check valves are installed in Air trapped in the chamber above the vacuum
the Pulsair valve), then through a manifold pipe I SEE FIG 18 diaphragm will bleed at a calibrated rate through
to the exhaust manifold. All manifold pipes are The purpose of the deceleration valve is to the delay valve portion of the integral check and
the same length, to prevent uneven pulsation.
The check valves open during pulses of negative
CHECK &
exhaust back pressure, admitting air into the 1/ DELAY
manifold pipe and the exhaust manifold. During SIGNAL v VALVE
pulses of positive exhaust back pressure, the LINE TO
MANIFOLD
check valves close, preventing backfiring into VACUUM
the Pulsair valve and air cleaner.
The Pulsair check valves, hoses and pipes
should be checked occasionally for leaks,
cracks, or breaks.

DIAPHRAGM
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

1. Remove the air cleaner case. Disconnect

the rubber hose(s) from the Pulsair valve(s).
2. Disconnect the support bracket, if present.
Some V6 engines have a Pulsair solenoid and
bracket, which must be removed.
TO INTAKE
3. Unscrew the attaching nuts and remove MANIFOLD
CLEAN
the Pulsair tubes from the exhaust manifold(s).
AIR INTAKE
4. To install, first apply a light coat of clean
OPEN POSITION
oil to the ends of the Pulsair tubes.
FIG.18 Cross section of the deceleration valve

BY-PASS AIR TO AIR CLEANER TWO—VALVES OR INTEGRAL

FIG.19 Air management system operation with engine warm

 EMISSION CONTROLS 4-23

FIG.20 Air management system operation with engine cold

delay valve, reducing the vacuum acting on the

diaphragm. When the vacuum load on the Throttle Position Sensor Idle Speed Control (ISC)
diaphragm and the spring load equalize, the
valve assembly will close, shutting off the air (TPS) t SEE FIG. 22
flow into the intake manifold. The idle speed control does just what its name
The check valve portion of the check and | SEE FIG 21 implies-it controls the idle. The ISC is used to
delay valve provides quick balancing of chamber The throttle position sensor is mounted in the maintain low engine speeds while at the same
pressure when a sudden decrease in vacuum is carburetor body and is used to supply throttle time preventing stalling due to engine load
caused by acceleration rather than deceleration. position information to the ECM. The ECM changes. The system consists of a motor
memory stores an average of operating assembly mounted on the carburetor which
conditions with the ideal air/fuel ratios for each moves the throttle lever so as to open or close
of those conditions. When the ECM receives a the throttle blades.
Mixture Control signal that indicates throttle position change, it The whole operation is controlled by the ECM.
Solenoid (M/C) immediately shifts to the last remembered set of The ECM monitors engine load to determine the
operating conditions that resulted in an ideal air/ proper idle speed. To prevent stalling, it monitors
fuel ratio control. The memory is continually the air conditioning compressor switch, the
The fuel flow through the carburetor idle main
being updated during normal operations. transmission, the park/neutral switch and the iSC
metering circuits is controlled by a mixture
control (M/C) solenoid located in the carburetor.
The M/C solenoid changes the air/fuel mixture to
the engine by controlling the fuel flow through
the carburetor. The ECM controls the solenoid by
providing a ground. When the solenoid is
energized, the fuel flow through the carburetor is
reduced, providing a leaner mixture. When the
ECM removes the ground, the solenoid is de¬
energized, increasing the fuel flow and providing
a richer mixture. The M/C solenoid is energized
and de-energized at a rate of 10 times per
second.

FIG.21 Throttle position sensor

4-24 EMISSION CONTROLS
Catalytic Converter
ISC PLUNGER (DO NOT USE 4-TERMINAL
TO SET CURB IOLE SPEED) HARNESS The catalytic converter is a muffler-like
CONNECTOR container built Into the exhaust system to aid In
PLUNGER the reduction of exhaust emissions. The catalyst
IN
element consists of individual pellets or a
MOTOR
honeycomb monolithic substrate coated with a
noble metal such as platinum, palladium,
rhodium or a combination. When the exhaust
gases come into contact with the catalyst, a
chemical reaction occurs which will reduce the
pollutants into harmless substances like water
rNEVER CONNECT VOLTAGE and carbon dioxide.
SOURCE ACROSS TERMINALS There are essentially two types of catalytic
"A” AND "B" converters: an oxidizing type and a three-way
type. The oxidizing type requires the addition of
FIG.22 The idle speed control motor (ISC) Is mounted on the side of the carburetor oxygen to spur the catalyst into reducing the
engine’s HC and CO emissions into H20 and
C02. The oxidizing catalytic converter, while
throttle switch. The ECM processes all this use TCC. The ECM controls the converter by
effectively reducing HC and CO emissions, does
information and then uses it to control the ISC means of a solenoid mounted in the
little, if anything in the way of reducing NOx
motor which in turn will vary the idle speed as transmission. When the vehicle speed reaches a
emissions. Thus, the three-way catalytic
necessary. certain level, the ECM energizes the solenoid and
converter.
allows the torque converter to mechanically
The three-way converter, unlike the oxidizing
couple the transmission to the engine. When the
type, is capable of reducing HC, CO and NOx
operating conditions indicate that the
Electronic Spark Timing emissions; all at the same time. In theory, it
transmission should operate as a normal fluid
seems impossible to reduce all three pollutants
(EST) coupled transmission, the ECM will de-energize
in one system since the reduction of HC and CO
the solenoid. Depressing the brake will also
requires the addition of oxygen, while the
return the transmission to normal automatic
All models use EST. The EST distributor, as reduction of NOx calls for the removal of oxygen.
operation.
described in an earlier Section, contains no
vacuum or centrifugal advance mechanism and
uses a seven terminal HEI module. It has four INTERMEDIATE PIPE
wires going to a four terminal connector in
addition to the connectors normally found on HEI
distributors. A reference pulse, indicating engine
rpm is sent to the ECM. The ECM determines the
proper spark advance for the engine operating
conditions and then sends an EST pulse back to
the distributor.
Under most normal operating conditions, the
ECM will control the spark advance. However,
under certain operating conditions such as
cranking or when setting base timing, the
distributor is capable of operating without ECM
control. This condition is called BYPASS and is
determined by the BYPASS lead which runs from FIG.23 The catalytic converter is upstream of the muffler
the ECM to the distributor. When the BYPASS V
lead is at the proper voltage (5), the ECM will
control the spark. If the lead is grounded or open
METAL MESH
circuited, the HEI module itself will control the SHELL

spark. Disconnecting the 4-terminal EST OXIDATION

CATALYST
connector will also cause the engine to operate
in the BYPASS mode.

Transmission Converter
_ THREE-WAY
Clutch (TCC) FRONT BED CATALYST REAR BED

FIG.24 Cutaway view ot a three-way catalytic converter

All models with an automatic transmission
 EMISSION CONTROLS 4-25
In actuality, the three-way system really can driveability and reduce emissions. The system is 4. Remove the carburetor as detailed later in
reduce all three pollutants, but only if the amount electric and uses a ceramic heater grid located this Section.
of oxygen in the exhaust system is precisely underneath the primary bore of the carburetor as 5. Lift off the EFE heater grid.
controlled. Due to this precise oxygen control part of the carburetor insulator/gasket. When the 6. installation is in the reverse order of
requirement, the three-way converter system is ignition switch is turned on and the engine removal.
used only in conjunction with an oxygen sensor coolant temperature is low, voltage is applied to
system. the EFE relay by the ECM. The EFE relay in turn
There are no service procedures required for energizes the heater grid. When the coolant EFE HEATER RELAY
the catalytic converter, although the converter temperature increases, the ECM de-energizes REPLACEMENT
body should be inspected occasionally for the relay which will then shut off the EFE heater.
damage.
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove the retaining bracket.
PRECAUTIONS 3. Tag and disconnect all electrical
1. Remove the air cleaner and disconnect the connections.
negative battery cable. 4. Unscrew the retaining bolts and remove
1. Use only unleaded fuel. 2. Disconnect all electrical, vacuum and fuel the relay.
2. Avoid prolonged idling; the engine should connections from the carburetor. 5. Installation is in the reverse order of
run no longer than 20 min. at curb idle and no 3. Disconnect the EFE heater electrical lead. removal.
longer than 10 min. at fast idle.
3. Do not disconnect any of the spark plug
leads while the engine is running. CCC SYSTEM DIAGNOSTIC
4. Make engine compression checks as CHARTS
quickly as possible.
CATALYST TESTING
To properly diagnosis driveability problems
At the present time there is no known way to
you need to use the following charts. Make
reliably test catalytic converter operation in the
certain the charts cover the engine your car has.
field. The only reliable test is a 12 hour and 40
If your check engine light is not lit, check for
min. soak test (CVS) which must be done in a
engine stored engine codes. If any codes are
laboratory.
stored write them down for reference later. Clear
An infrared HC/CO tester is not sensitive the codes as described earlier. Road test the
enough to measure the higher tailpipe emissions vehicle to see if any of the codes return. Never
from a failing converter. Thus, a bad converter try to fix a code problem until you’re sure that it
may allow enough emissions to escape so that comes back. It may have been a old code from
the car is no longer in compliance with Federal or years ago that was never cleared or a code that
state standards, but will still not cause the needle was set do to a rain storm, battery jump, etc.
on a tester to move off zero. After clearing any codes and checking that
The chemical reactions which occur inside a they do not return. If the car drives fine your
catalytic converter generate a great deal of heat. finished. But if there are no codes and the car
Most converter problems can be traced to fuel or runs poorly you’ll need to check the symptoms
ignition system problems which cause unusually charts. The problem is most likely not the
high emissions. As a result of the increased computer or the devices it controls but the
intensity of the chemical reactions, the converter ignition system or engine mechanical.
literally burns itself up. If you do have a code(s) that returns start with
A completely failed converter might cause a the lowest code and follow the proper chart. You
tester to show a slight reading. As a result, it is must follow every step of the chart and not jump
occasionally possible to detect one of these. from test to test or you’ll never be certain to find
As long as you avoid severe overheating and and fix the real problem.
the use of leaded fuels it is reasonably safe to Start with the lowest to highest code chart,
assume that the converter is working properly. If making sure to use the charts for your engine. If
you are in doubt, take the car to a diagnostic you have a 50 series code, like code 54. Always
center that has a tester. check those out first. They are rare but usually
indicate a problem with the computer itself or its
ability to. test itself properly.
For carburetor overhaul or
Early Fuel Evaporation service refer to Section 5 Fuel
(EFE) Systems.

All models are equipped with this system to

reduce engine warm-up time, improve
4-26 EMISSION CONTROLS

EXPLANATION OF TROUBLE CODES

GM C-4 AND CCC SYSTEMS
(Ground test lead or terminal AFTER engine is running.)
Trouble Applicable
Code System Notes Possible Problem Area
12 C-4.CCC No tachometer or reference signal to computer (ECM). This
code will only be present while a fault exists, and will not be
stored if the problem is intermittent.
13 C-4, CCC Oxygen sensor circuit. The engine must run for about five
minutes (eighteen on C-4 equipped 231 cu in. V6) at part
throttle (and under road load—CCC equipped cars) before
this code will show.
13 & 14 (at C-4 Except and 171 See code 43.
same time) cu in. V6
13&43 (at C-4 *. 171 cuin.V6 See code 43.
same time)
14 C-4, CCC Shorted coolant sensor circuit. The engine has to run 2
minutes before this code will show.
15 C-4, CCC Open coolant sensor circuit. The engine has to operate for
about five minutes (18 minutes for C-4 equipped 231 cu in.
V6) at part throttle (some models) before this code will
show.
21 C-4 Shorted wide open throttle switch and/or open
closed-throttle switch circuit (when used).
C-4.CCC Throttle position sensor circuit. The engine must be run up
to 10 seconds (25 seconds—CCC System) below 800 rpm
before this code will show.
21&22 (at C-4 Grounded wide open throttle switch circuit (231 cu io. V6,
same time) 151 cu in. 4 cylinder).
22 C-4 Grounded closed throttle or wide open throttle switch
circuit (231 cu in. V6,151 cu in. 4 cylinder).
23 C-4, CCC Open or grounded carburetor mixture control (M/C)
solenoid circuit.
24 CCC Vehicle speed sensor (VSS) circuit. The car must operate up
to five minutes at road speed before this code will show.
32 C-4, CCC Barometric pressure sensor (BARO) circuit output low.
32&55 (at C-4 Grounded + 8V terminal or V(REF) terminal for barometric
same time) pressure sensor (BARO), or faulty ECM computer.
34 C-4 Except 260cuin. Manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor output high (after
Cutlass ten seconds and below 800 rpm).
34 CCC Including 260 cu in. Manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor circuit or vacuum
Cutlass sensor circuit. The engine must run up to five minutes below
800 RPM before this code will set.
35 CCC Idle speed control (ISC) switch circuit shorted (over Vi
throttle for over two seconds).
41 CCC No distributor reference pulses to the ECM at specified
engine vacuum. This code will store in memory.
 EMISSION CONTROLS 4-27

EXPLANATION OF TROUBLE CODES

QM C-4 AND CCC SYSTEMS
(Ground test lead or terminal AFTER engine is running.)
Trouble Applicable
Code System Notes Possible Problem Area
42 ccc Electronic spark timing (EST) bypass circuit grounded.
43 C-4 Throttle position sensor adjustment (on some models,
engine must run at part throttle up to ten seconds before
this code will set).
44 C-4, CCC Lean oxygen sensor indication. The engine must run up to
five minutes in closed loop (oxygen sensor adjusting
carburetor mixture), at part throttle and under road load
(drive car) before this code will set.
44&55 (at C-4, CCC Faulty oxygen sensor circuit.
same time)
45 C-4, CCC Restricted air cleaner can Rich oxygen sensor system indication. The engine must run
cause code 45 up to five minutes in closed loop (oxygen sensor adjusting
carburetor mixture), at part throttle under road load before
this code will set.
51 C-4, CCC Faulty calibration unit (PROM) or improper PROM
installation in electronic control module (ECM). It takes up
to thirty seconds for this code to set.
52&53 C-4 “Check Engine” light off: Intermittent ECM computer
problem.
"Check Engine” light on: Faulty ECM computer (replace).
52 C-4, CCC Faulty ECM computer.
53 CCC Including 1980 260 cu in. Faulty ECM computer.
Cutlass
54 C-4, CCC Faulty mixture control solenoid circuit and/or faulty ECM
computer.
55 C-4 Except 1980 260 cu. in. Faulty oxygen sensor, open manifold absolute pressure
Cutlass sensor or faulty ECM computer (231 cu in. V6).
Faulty throttle position sensor or ECM computer (except
231 cu. in. V6).
Faulty ECM computer (151 cu in. 4 cylinder)
55 CCC Including 1980 260 cu in. Grounded + 8 volt supply (terminal 19 of ECM computer
Cutlass connector), grounded 5 volt reference (terminal 21 of ECM
computer connector), faulty oxygen sensor circuit or faulty
ECM computer.
4-28 EMISSION CONTROLS

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moderate acceleration and idle conditions, until The ECM controls the exhaust emissions by
Throttle Body Fuel performance returns. modifying fuel delivery to achieve, as near as
Injection (TBI) With the EFI system, the TBI assembly is possible, and air/fuel ratio of 14.7:1. The injector
centrally located on the intake manifold where air on-time is determined by various inputs to the
and fuel are distributed through a single bore in ECM. By increasing the injector pulse, more fuel
The electronic throttle body fuel injection the throttle body, similar to a carbureted engine. is delivered, enriching the air/fuel ratio.
system is a fuel metering system with the Air for combustion is controlled by a single Decreasing the injector pulse, leans the air/fuel
amount of fuel delivered by the throttle body throttle valve which is connected to the ratio. Pulses are sent to the injector in 2 different
injector(s) (TBI) determined by an electronic accelerator pedal linkage by a throttle shaft and modes: synchronized and nonsynchronized.
signal supplied by the Electronic Control Module lever assembly. A special plate is located
(ECM) or Powertrain Control Module (PCM). The Synchronized Mode
directly beneath the throttle valve to aid in
ECM monitors various engine and vehicle mixture distribution. In synchronized mode operation, the injector
conditions to calculate the fuel delivery time Fuel for combustion is supplied by 1 or 2 fuel is pulsed once for each distributor reference
(pulse width) of the injector(s). The fuel pulse injector(s), mounted on the TBI2 assembly, pulse. In dual injector throttle body systems, the
may be modified by the ECM to account for whose metering tip is located directly above the injectors are pulse alternately.
special operating conditions, such as cranking, throttle valve. The injector is pulsed or timed
cold starting, altitude, acceleration, and Nonsynchronized Mode
open or closed by an electronic output signal
deceleration. received from the ECM. The ECM receives inputs In nonsynchronized mode operation, the
The Throttle Body Injection (TBI) system concerning engine operating conditions from the injector is pulsed once every 12.5 milliseconds
provides a means of fuel distribution for various sensors (coolant temperature sensor, or 6.25 milliseconds depending on calibration.
controlling exhaust emissions within legislated oxygen sensor, etc.). The ECM, using this This pulse time is totally independent of
limits. The TBI system, by precisely controlling information, performs high speed calculations of distributor reference pulses. Nonsynchronized
the air/fuel mixture under all operating - engine fuel requirements and pulses or times the mode results only under the following
conditions, provides as near as possible injector, open or closed, thereby controlling fuel conditions:
complete combustion. and air mixtures to achieve, as near as possible, 1. The fuel pulse width is too small to be
This is accomplished by using an Electronic ideal air/fuel mixture ratios. delivered accurately by the injector
Control Module (ECM) (a small on-board When the ignition key is turned ON, the ECM (approximately 1.5 milliseconds)
microcomputer) that receives electrical inputs will initialize (start program running) and 2. During the delivery of prime pulses (prime
from various sensors about engine operating energize the fuel pump relay. The fuel pump pulses charge the intake manifold with fuel
conditions. An oxygen sensor in the main pressurizes the system to approximately 10 psi. during or just prior to engine starting)
exhaust stream functions to provide feedback If the ECM does not receive a distributor 3. During acceleration enrichment
information to the ECM as to the oxygen content, reference pulse (telling the ECM the engine is 4. During deceleration leanout
lean or rich, in the exhaust. The ECM uses this turning) within 2 seconds, the ECM will then de¬ The basic TBI unit is made up of 2 major
information from the oxygen sensor, and other energize the fuel pump relay, turning off the fuel casting assemblies: (1) a throttle body with a
sensors, to modify fuel delivery to achieve, as pump. If a distributor reference pulse is later valve to control airflow and (2) a fuel body
near as possible, an ideal air/fuel ratio of 14.7:1. received, the ECM will turn the fuel pump back assembly with an integral pressure regulator and
This air/fuel ratio allows the 3-way catalytic on. fuel injector to supply the required fuel. An
converter to be more efficient in the conversion
process of reducing exhaust emissions while at
the same time providing acceptable levels of
driveability and fuel economy.

ELECTRONIC CONTROL
MODULE

The ECM program electronically signals the

fuel injector in the TBI assembly to provide the
correct quantity of fuel for a wide range of
operating conditions. Several sensors are used
to determine existing operating conditions and
the ECM then signals the injector to provide the
precise amount of fuel required.
The ECM used on EFI vehicles has a learning
capability. If the battery is disconnected to clear 1. Coolant temperature 5. Injector
diagnostic codes, or for repair, the learning 2. Oxygen sensor 6. Distributor pulses
3. MAP 7. Throttle position
process has to begin all over again. A change 4. ECM sensor
may be noted in vehicle performance. To teach
the vehicle, make sure the vehicle is at operating FIG.27 Non-synchronized mode for single throttle body Injection system
temperature and drive at part throttle, under
4-66 EMISSION CONTROLS
reference pulse the ECM will deliver an injector
1. Coolant temperature
pulse (synchronized). The crank air/fuel ratio will
2. Throttle position
sensor be used if the throttle position is less than 80%
3. Injector A open. Crank air fuel is determined by the ECM
4. Injector B and ranges from 1.5:1 at -33°F (—36°C) to
5. Distributor pulses 14.7:1 at 201 °F (94°C).
6. ECM
7. MAP The lower the coolant temperature, the longer
8. Oxygen sensor the pulse width (injector on-time) or richer the
air/fuel ratio. The higher the coolant temperature,
the less pulse width (injector on-time) or the
leaner the air/fuel ratio.
3 fUUlAIUUUUUUUUL Clear Flood Mode
4 lUUUUUUUUUUliUL
If for some reason the engine should become
5 n_n_ji_n_n_ flooded, provisions have been made to clear this
condition. To clear the flood, the driver must
FIG.28 Non-synchronized mode for dual throttle body injection system depress the accelerator pedal enough to open to
wide-open throttle position. The ECM then issues
injector pulses at a rate that would be equal to an
air/fuel ratio of 20:1. The ECM maintains this
electronically operated device to control the idle The throttle body portion of the TBI may injector rate as long as the throttle remains wide
speed and a device to provide information contain ports located at, above, or below the open and the engine rpm is below 600. If the
regarding throttle valve position are included as throttle valve. These ports generate the vacuum throttle position becomes less than 80%, the
part of the TBI unit. signals for the E6R valve, MAP sensor, and the ECM then would immediately start issuing crank
The fuel injector(s) is a solenoid-operated canister purge system. pulses to the injector calculated by the ECM
device controlled by the ECM. The incoming fuel The Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) is a based on the coolant temperature.
is directed to the lower end of the injector variable resistor used to convert the degree of
assembly which has a fine screen filter throttle plate opening to an electrical signal to the Run Mode
surrounding the injector inlet. The ECM actuates ECM. The ECM uses this signal as a reference There are 2 different run modes. When the
the solenoid, which lifts a normally closed ball point of throttle valve position. In addition, an Idle engine rpm is above 400, the system goes into
valve off a seat. The fuel under pressure is Air Control (IAC) assembly, mounted in the open loop operation. In open loop operation, the
injected in a conical spray pattern at the walls of throttle body s used to control idle speeds. A ECM will ignore the signal from the oxygen (02)
the throttle body bore above the throttle valve. cone-shaped valve in the IAC assembly is sensor and calculate the injector on-time based
The excess fuel passes through a pressure located in an air passage in the throttle body that upon inputs from the coolant and manifold
regulator before being returned to the vehicle’s leads from the point beneath the air cleaner to absolute pressure sensors.
fuel tank. below the throttle valve. The ECM monitors idle During open loop operation, the ECM analyzes
The pressure regulator is a diaphragm- speeds and, depending on engine load, moves the following items to determine when the
operated relief valve with injector pressure on the IAC cone in the air passage to increase or system is ready to go to the closed loop mode:
one side and air cleaner pressure on the other. decrease air bypassing the throttle valve to the 1. The oxygen sensor varying voltage output.
The function of the regulator is to maintain a intake manifold for control of idle speeds. (This is dependent on temperature).
constant pressure drop across the injector 2. The coolant sensor must be above
throughout the operating load and speed range Cranking Mode
specified temperature.
of the engine. During engine crank, for each distributor 3. A specific amount of time must elapse
after starting the engine. These values are stored
in the PROM.
1. ON When these conditions have been met, the
2. Crank system goes into closed loop operation In closed
3. Coolant temperature
4. ECM
loop operation, the ECM will modify the pulse
width (injector on-time) based upon the signal
from the oxygen sensor. The ECM will decrease
the on-time if the air/fuel ratio is too rich, and will
increase the on-time if the air/fuel ratio is too
lean.
5. Injector The pulse width, thus the amount of
6. Distributor pulses enrichment, is determined by manifold pressure
7. Throttle position
change, throttle angle change, and coolant
sensor
temperature. The higher the manifold pressure
6 -H_n_n_tl and the wider the throttle opening, the wider the
pulse width. The acceleration enrichment pulses
FIG.29 Cranking air/fuel ratio are delivered nonsynchronized.
 EMISSION CONTROLS 4-67

OPERATING PARAMETERS SENSED

A/C “On” or'Off'

Engine Coolant Temperature
Engine crank signal Air Management
Exhaust Oxygen(Oj) Sensor Canister Purge
Ignition Reference Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR)
• Crankshaft Position Electronic Spark Timing (EST)
• Engine Speed (RPM) Fuel Control
Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) ELECTRONIC Idle Air Control (IAC)
Park Neutral Switch (P/N) Position CONTROL Transmission Converter Clutch (TCC)
System Voltage MOOULE or Shift Light
Throttle Position (TPS) (ECM) Electric Fuel Pump
Transmission Gear Position Air Conditioning
Vehicle Speed (VSS) Engine Cooling Fan
Fuel Pump Voltage Diagnostics
Power Steering Pressure e "Service Engine Soon" Light
Mass Air Flow (MAF) e Data Output (ALDL)
Manifold Air Temperature (MAT) Electronic Spark Control (ESC)
EGR Vacuum
Engine Knock (ESC)
Differential Pressure (VAC)
A/C High Side Pressure
*Not all items are used on all engines.

FIG.30 Engine control system control parameters

The ECM senses this increase in throttle angle

1. ON
2. Crank and MAP, and supplies additional fuel for a short
3. Throttle position period of time. This prevents the engine from
sensor stumbling due to too lean a mixture.
4. Injector1
5. Distributor pulses Deceleration Leanout Mode
6. ECM
Upon deceleration, a leaner fuel mixture is
required to reduce emission of hydrocarbons
(HC) and carbon monoxide (CO). To adjust the
injection on-time, the ECM uses the decrease in
manifold pressure and the decrease in throttle
position to calculate a decrease in pulse width.
To maintain an idle fuel ratio of 14.7:1, fuel
output is momentarily reduced. This is done
because of the fuel remaining in the intake
manifold during deceleration.
Deceleration Fuel Cut-Off Mode
FIG.31 Clear flood mode of fuel control The purpose of deceleration fuel cut-off is to
remove fuel from the engine during extreme
deceleration conditions. Deceleration fuel cut-off
Any reduction in throttle angle will cancel the Acceleration Enrichment Mode is based on values of manifold pressure, throttle
enrichment pulses. This way, quick movements position, and engine rpm stored in the calibration
When the engine is required to accelerate, the PROM. Deceleration fuel cut-off overrides the
of the accelerator will not over-enrich the opening of the throttle valve(s) causes a rapid deceleration enleanment mode.
mixture. increase in Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP).
This rapid increase in the manifold pressure
causes fuel to condense on the manifold walls.
4-68 EMISSION CONTROLS
Battery Voltage Correction Mode
1. Oxygen sensor
2. MAP
The purpose of battery voltage correction is to
3. Coolant temperature compensate for variations in battery voltage to
4. Bypass fuel pump and injector response. The ECM
5. Reference modifies the pulse width by a correction factor in
6. EST
the PROM. When battery voltage decreases,
7. Throttle position
sensor pulse width increases.
Battery voltage correction takes place in all
operating modes. When battery voltage is low,
the spark delivered by the distributor may be
low. To correct this low battery voltage problem,
the ECM can do any or all of the following:
1. Increase injector pulse width (increase
fuel)
2. Increase idle rpm
FIG.32 Run mode open loop (engine cold)
3. Increase ignition dwell time

Fuel Cut-Off Mode

When the ignition is OFF, the ECM will not
energize the injector. Fuel will also be cut off if
the ECM does not receive a reference pulse from
the distributor. To prevent dieseling, fuel delivery
is completely stopped as soon as the engine is
stopped. The ECM will not allow any fuel supply
until it receives distributor reference pulses
1. Oxygen sensor which prevents flooding.
2. Coolant temperature
3. ECM
4. Throttle position Backup Mode
sensor When in this mode, the ECM is operating on
5. Injector 5 _n, n_n.-n_n the fuel backup logic calibrated by the CalPak.
6. Distributor pulses
7. MAP The CalPak is used to control the fuel delivery if
6 _n_n__n__n_Ji the ECM fails. This mode verifies that the backup
feature is working properly. The parameters that
FIG.33 Run mode closed loop (engine warm) can be read on a scan tool in this mode are not
much use for service.

m A RAPIDLY INCREASING MAP WILL

CAUSE FUEL TO CONDENSE ON THE
MANIFOLD WALLS.
(~2~| THE ECM WILL INCREASE THE INJECTOR
ON TIME TO COMPENSATE.
HTI COOLANT SENSOR
(jT) map
m ACCELERATION ENRICHMENT PULSES
ARE DELIVERED ASYCHRONOUSLY
BASED UPON MANIFOLD PRESSURE AND
THROTTLE ANGLE.
[~6~1 ECM

(T]_n_n_n_n_n_ f~T] INJECTOR

[T1 DISTRIBUTOR PULSES
H] HTI THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR

FIG.34 Schematic of the acceleration enrichment

 EMISSION CONTROLS 4-69
oxygen sensor voltage. Integrator and block
learn will show very little change and the oxygen
sensor voltage is be less than 100 millivolts.

ALCL/ALDL Connector
The Assembly Line Communication Link
(ALCL) or Assembly Line Diagnostic Link
(ALDL) is a diagnostic connector located in the
passenger compartment. It has terminals which
are used in the assembly plant to check that the
engine is operating properly before it leaves the
plant. This connector is a very useful tool in
diagnosing EF1 engines. Important information
from the ECM is available at this terminal and
can be read with one of the many popular
m COOLANT SENSOR scanner tools.
m UPON DECELERATION. THE m ECM
Some models refer to the ALCL as
ECM USES THE DECREASE m THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR
IN MANIFOLD PRESSURE
the Assembly Line Diagnostic Link
(MAP) ANO THE DECREASE f~i1 INJECTOR (ALDL). Either way It Is referred to,
IN THROTTLE POSITION TO m DISTRIBUTOR PULSES they both still perform the same
CALCULATE A OECREASE
IN PULSE WIDTH. m map function.

FIG.35 Schematic of the deceleration leanout FUEL INJECTION

SUBSYSTEMS
Highway Mode activity and a constant vehicle speed before if
When driven at highway speeds the system will enter this mode. The system will switch back Electronic Fuel Injection (EFI) is the name
may enter highway or semi-closed loop mode. to closed loop periodically to check all system given to the entire fuel injection system. Various
This improves fuel economy by leaning out fuel functions. subsystems are combined to form the overall
mixture slightly. The ECM must see correct A scan tool determines highway mode by system. These subsystems are:
engine temperature, ignition timing, canister looking at the integrator/block learn values and 1. Fuel supply system
2. Throttle Body Injector (TBI) assembly
3. Idle Air Control (IAC)
4. Electronic Control Module (ECM)
5. Data sensors
6. Electronic Spark Timing (EST)
7. Emission controls

Fuel Supply System

Fuel, supplied by an electric fuel pump
mounted in the fuel tank, passes through an in¬
line fuel filter to the TBI assembly. To control fuel
pump operation, a fuel pump relay is used.
When the ignition switch is turned to the ON
FIG.36 Battery voltage correction graph position, the fuel pump relay activates the
electric fuel pump for 1.5-2.0 seconds to prime
the injector. If the ECM does not receive
reference pulses from the distributor after this
time, the ECM signals the relay to turn the fuel
pump off. The relay will once again activate the
fuel pump when the ECM receives distributor
TERMINAL IDENTIFICATION reference pulses.
The oil pressure sender is the backup for the
A GROUND E SERIAL DATA
fuel pump relay. The sender has 2 circuits, 1 for
B DIAGNOSTIC TERMINAL F TCC (IF USED) the instrument cluster light or gauge, the other to
activate the fuel pump if the relay fails. If the fuse
C A.I.R. (IF USED) G FUEL PUMP (IF USED) relay has failed, the sender activates the fuel
pump when oil pressure reaches 4 psi. Thus a
0 SERVICE ENGINE M SERIAL DATA (IF USEO)
SOON LIGHT (IF USED) failed fuel pump relay would cause a longer
crank, especially in cold weather. If the fuel
FIG.37 Diagnostic ALDL connector identification
pump fails, a no start condition exists.
4-70 EMISSION CONTROLS
other. The function of the regulator is to maintain
constant pressure (approximately 11 psi) to the
injector throughout the operating loads and
speed ranges of the engine. If the regulator
pressure is too low, below 9 psi, it can cause
poor performance. Too high a pressure could
cause detonation and a strong fuel odor.
Idle Air Control (IAC)
The purpose of the Idle Air Control (IAC)
system is to control engine idle speed while
preventing stalls due to changes in engine load.
The IAC assembly, mounted on the throttle body,
controls bypass air around the throttle plate. By
extending or retracting a conical valve, a
■CD OIL LAMP controlled amount of air can move around the
throttle plate. If rpm is too low, more air is
CD OIL PRESSURE SWITCH CD INSTRUMENT PANEL
diverted around the throttle plate to increase
CD FUEL PUMP RELAY CD IGNITION SWITCH rpm.
0 FUEL PUMP CD BULKHEAD During idle, the proper position of the IAC
ECM CD ENGINE valve is calculated by the ECM based on battery
GO
voltage, coolant temperature, engine load, and
FIG.38 Fuel pump circuit engine rpm. If the rpm drops below a specified
rate, the throttle plate is closed. The ECM will
then calculate a new valve position.
Three different designs are used for the IAC
conical valve. The first design used is single 35
taper while the second design used is a dual
taper. The third design is a blunt valve. Care
should be taken to insure use of the correct
design when service replacement is required.
The IAC motor has 255 different positions or
steps. The zero, or reference position, is the fully
extended position at which the pintle is seated in

Throttle Body Injector (TBI) throttle valve. These ports generate the vacuum
Assembly signals for the EGR valve, MAP sensor, and the
The basic TBI model 700 is used on 4 cylinder canister purge system.
engines, is made up of 2 major casting The fuel injector is a solenoid-operated device
assemblies: (1) a throttle body with a valve to controlled by the ECM. The incoming fuel is
control airflow and (2) a fuel body assembly with directed to the lower end of the injector
an integral pressure regulator and fuel injector to assembly which has a fine screen filter
supply the required fuel. A device to control idle surrounding the injector inlet The ECM turns on
speed (IAC) and a device to provide information the solenoid, which lifts a normally closed ball r~\
about throttle valve position (TPS) are included valve off a seat. The fuel, under pressure, is
as part of the TBI unit. injected in a conical spray pattern at the walls of
The model 220 is used on V6 and V8 engines, the throttle body bore above the throttle valve.
consists of 3 major castings. (1) fuel meter The excess fuel passes through a pressure
cover with pressure regulator, (2) Fuel meter regulator before being returned to the vehicle fuel
tank. BLUNT PINTLi
body with injectors and (3) throttle body with IAC
valve and TPS sensor. The pressure regulator is a diaphragm-
operated relief valve with the injector pressure FIG.40 The 3 designs of the idle air control
The throttle body portion of the TBI unit may valves
contain ports located at, above, or below the on one side, and the air cleaner pressure on the
 EMISSION CONTROLS 4-71
the air bypass seat and no air is allowed to shake may occur if the ECM does not receive the A failure in the coolant sensor circuit should
bypass the throttle plate. When the motor is fully proper signals from the monitored systems. either set a Code 14 or 15. These codes indicate
retracted, maximum air is allowed to bypass the a failure in the coolant temperature sensor
throttle plate. When the motor is fully retracted, High Idle Speed/Warm-Up Idle circuit.
maximum air is allowed to bypass the throttle Speed
plate. (No Kickdown) Oxygen Sensor
The ECM always monitors how many steps it Engine idle speeds as high as 2100 rpm may The exhaust oxygen sensor is mounted in the
has extended or retracted the pintle from the zero be experienced during cold starts to quickly raise exhaust system where it can monitor the oxygen
or reference position; thus, it always calculates the catalytic converter to operating temperature content of the exhaust gas stream. The oxygen
the exact position of the motor. Once the engine for proper exhaust emissions performance. The content in the exhaust reacts with the oxygen
has started and the vehicle has reached idle speed attained after a cold start is ECM sensor to produce a voltage output. This voltage
approximately 40 mph, the ECM will extend the controlled and will not drop for 45 seconds ranges from approximately 100 millivolts (high
motor 255 steps from whatever position it is in. regardless of driver attempts to kickdown. oxygen - lean mixture) to 900 millivolts (low
This will bottom out the pintle against the seat. It is important to recognize the EFI engines oxygen - rich mixture).
The ECM will call this position 0 and thus keep have no accelerator pump or choke. Idle speed By monitoring the voltage output of the
its zero reference updated. during warm-up is entirely ECM controlled and oxygen sensor, the ECM will determine what fuel
The 1AC only affects the engine’s idle cannot be changed by accelerator kickdown or mixture command to give to the injector (lean
characteristics. If it is stuck fully open, idle pumping. mixture - low voltage - rich command, rich
speed is too high (too much air enters the throttle Abnormally low idle speeds are usually mixture - high voltage - lean command).
bore) If it is stuck closed, idle speed is too low caused by an ECM system-controlled or Remember that oxygen sensor indicates to
(not enough air entering). If it is stuck monitored irregularity, while the most common the ECM what is happening in the exhaust. It
somewhere in the middle, idle may be rough, cause for abnormally high idle speed is an does not cause things to happen. It is a type of
and the engine won’t respond to load changes. induction (intake air) leak. The idle air control gauge: high oxygen content = lean mixture; low
valve may occasionally lose its memory oxygen content = rich mixture. The ECM adjust
Idle Speed Control (ISC) function, and it has an ECM programmed fuel to keep the system working.
Incorrect diagnosis and/or misunderstanding method of relearning the correct idle position. The oxygen sensor, if open should set a Code
of the idle speed control systems used on EFI This reset, when required, will occur the next 13. A constant low voltage in the sensor circuit
engines may lead to unnecessary replacement of time the car exceeds 35 mph. At this time the should set a Code 44 while a constant high
the IAC valve. Engine idle speed is controlled by ECM seats the pintle of the IAC valve in the voltage in the circuit should set a Code 45.
the ECM which changes the idle speed by throttle body to determine a reference point. Codes 44 and 45 could also be set as a result of
moving the IAC valve. The ECM adjusts idle Then it backs out a fixed distance to maintain fuel system problems.
speed in response to fluctuations in engine load proper idle speed.
(A/C, power steering, electrical loads, etc.) to Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor
maintain acceptable idle quality and proper The Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP)
exhaust emission performance. DATA SENSORS
sensor measures the changes in the intake
The following is provided to assist the you to manifold pressure which result from engine load
better understand the system. Asking yourself A variety of sensors provide information to the and speed changes. The pressure measured by
questions that a mechanic would ask you will ECM regarding engine operating characteristics. the MAP sensor is the difference between
help you narrow.down the problem area. These sensors and their functions are described barometric pressure (outside air) and manifold
1. Rough idle/low idle speed below. Be sure to take note that not every sensor pressure (vacuum). A closed throttle engine
2. High idle speed/warm-up idle speed; no described is used with every engine application. coastdown would produce a relatively low MAP
kickdown value (approximately 20-35 kPa), while wide-
Engine Coolant Temperature open throttle would produce a high value (100
Rough Idle/Low Idle Speed The Coolant Temperature Sensor (CTS) is a kPa). This high value is produced when the
The ECM will respond to increases in engine thermister (a resistor which changes value pressure inside the manifold is the same as
load, which would cause a drop in idle speed, by based on temperature) mounted on the engine outside the manifold, and 100% of outside air (or
moving the IAC valve to maintain proper idle coolant stream. As the temperature of the engine 100 kPa) is being measured. This MAP output is
speed. After the induced load is removed the coolant changes, the resistance of the coolant the opposite of what you would measure on a
ECM will return the idle speed to the proper level. sensor changes. Low coolant temperature vacuum gauge. The use of this sensor also
During A/C compressor operation (MAX, BI¬ produces a high resistance (100,000 ohms at - allows the ECM to adjust automatically for
LEVEL, NORM or DEFROST mode) the ECM will 40°C/-40°F), while high temperature causes low different altitude.
increase idle speed in response to an A/C-ON resistance (70 ohms at 130°C/266°F). The ECM sends a 5 volt reference signal to the
signal, thereby compensating for any drop in idle The ECM supplies a 5 volt signal to the MAP sensor. As the MAP changes, the electrical
speed due to compressor load. On some coolant sensor and measures the voltage that resistance of the sensor also changes. By
vehicles, the ECM will also increase the idle returns. By measuring the voltage change, the monitoring the sensor output voltage the ECM
speed in response to high power steering loads. ECM determines the engine coolant temperature. can determine the manifold pressure. A higher
During periods of especially heavy loads (A/C¬ The voltage will be high when the engine is cold pressure, lower vacuum (high voltage) requires
ON plus parking maneuvers) significant effects and low when the engine is hot. This information more fuel, while a lower pressure, higher
on idle quality may be experienced. These is used to control fuel management, IAC, spark vacuum (low voltage) requires less fuel. The
effects are more pronounced on 4-cylinder timing, EGR, canister purge and other engine ECM uses the MAP sensor to control fuel
engines. Abnormally low idle, rough idle and idle operating conditions.
4-72 EMISSION CONTROLS
delivery and ignition timing. A failure in the MAP
sensor circuit should set a Code 33 or Code 34.
Intake Air Temperature Sensor
The Intake Air Temperature (IAT) and Manifold
Air Temperature (MAT) are the same sensor.
This sensor is a thermistor mounted in the intake
manifold or air intake. A thermistor is a resistor
which changes resistance based on
temperature. Low manifold air temperature
produces a high resistance (100,000 ohms at -
40°F/-40°C), while high temperature cause low
resistance (70 ohms at 266°F/130°C).
The ECM supplies a 5 volt signal to the MAT/
IAT sensor through a resistor in the ECM and
monitors the voltage. The voltage will be high
when the manifold air is cold and low when the
air is hot. By monitoring the voltage, the ECM
calculates the air temperature and uses this data PM generator is located in the transmission and can either be misadjusted, shorted, open or
to help determine the fuel delivery and spark replaces the speedometer cable. The signal from loose. Misadjustment might result in poor idle or
advance. A failure in the MAT/IAT circuit should the PM generator drives a stepper motor which poor wide-open throttle performance. An open
set either a Code 23 or Code 25. drives the odometer. A failure in the VSS circuit TPS signals the ECM that the throttle is always
should set a Code 24. closed, resulting in poor performance. This
Vehicle Speed Sensor usually sets a Code 22. A shorted TPS gives the
Throttle Position Sensor ECM a constant wide-open throttle signal and
A vehicle equipped with a speed
The Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) is should set a Code 21. A loose TPS indicates to
sensor, should not be driven connected to the throttle shaft and is controlled the ECM that the throttle is moving. This causes
without a the speed sensor by the throttle mechanism. A 5 volt reference
connected, as idle quality may be intermittent bursts of fuel from the injector and
signal is sent to the TPS from the ECM. As the an unstable idle. On some vehicles, the TPS is
affected. Also extreme poor gas throttle valve angle is changed (accelerator pedal
mileage and a code will be stored In adjustable and therefore can be adjusted to
moved), the resistance of the TPS also changes. correct any complications caused by to high or
the computers memory. At a closed throttle position, the resistance of the to low of a voltage signal.
The Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) is mounted TPS is high, so the output voltage to the ECM will
behind the speedometer in the instrument cluster be low (approximately 0.5 volts). As the throttle Crankshaft And Camshaft Sensor
or on the transmission/speedometer drive gear. plate opens, the resistance decreases so that, at
These sensors are mounted on the engine
It provides electrical pulses to the ECM from the wide open throttle, the output voltage should be
block, near the engine crankshaft, and also near
speedometer head. The pulses indicate the road approximately 5 volts. At closed throttle position,
the camshaft on some engines. The sensors are
speed. The ECM uses this information to operate the voltage at the TPS should be less than 1.25
used to send a signal through the Direct Ignition
the IAC, canister purge, and TCC. volts.
System (DIS) module to the ECM. The ECM uses
Some vehicles equipped with digital By monitoring the output voltage from the
this reference signal to calculate engine speed
instrument clusters use a Permanent Magnet TPS, the ECM can determine fuel delivery based
and crankshaft position.
(PM) generator to provide the VSS signal. The on throttle valve angle (driver demand). The TPS
In a typical 4 cylinder engine application, a
sensor is mounted with the ignition module and
2 ignition coils to comprise the direct ignition
assembly. When mounted on the engine block,
the sensor tip is very close to a metal disk wheel
with slots which is mounted on the crankshaft.
The sensor tip contains a small magnet and a
small coil of wire. As the metal disk wheel with
the slots rotates past the sensor tip, the
magnetic field of the permanent magnet is
changed and a voltage is induced into the coil.
This voltage signal is sent to the ignition module.
The ignition module is able to determine engine
speed from the frequency of the voltage curve,
which changes with engine speed.
A 6 cylinder engine may use a different type of
sensor called a hall effect switch. With the direct
ignition connected to the vehicle electrical
system, the system voltage is applied to the hall
effect switch located near the tip of the sensor.
 \ EMISSION CONTROLS 4-73
A small permanent magnet creates a magnetic This switch indicates to the ECM when the Power Steering Pressure Switch
field in the hall 2. effect switch circuit. As the transmission is in P or N. The information is The Power Steering Pressure Switch (PSPS)
disc wheel with the slots rotates past the used by the ECM for control on the torque is used so that the power steering oil pressure
sensor2. tip, the magnetic field in the hall effect converter clutch, EGR, and the idle air control pump load will not effect the engine idle. Turning
switch changes and a change in the voltage valve operation. the steering wheel increase the power steering
occurs at the hall effect switch output terminal. oil pressure and pump load on the engine. The
Since this terminal is connect to the ignition Air Conditioner Request Signal
power steering pressure switch will close before
module, the module senses this change in This signal indicates to the ECM that an air the load can cause an idle problem.
voltage and correlates the frequency of the conditioning mode is selected at the switch and
voltage curve to determine the engine speed. The that the A/C low pressure switch is closed. The Oil Pressure Switch
ignition module then uses this voltage input to ECM controls the A/C and adjusts the idle speed The oil pressure switch is usually mounted on
help determine when to close and open the in response to this signal. the back of the engine, just below the intake
ignition coil primary circuit and fire the spark manifold. Some vehicles use the oil pressure
plug. Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid
switch as a parallel power supply, with the fuel
The purpose of the Torque Converter Clutch pump relay and will provide voltage to the fuel
Park/Neutral Switch (TCC) system is designed to eliminate power pump, after approximately 4 psi (28 kPa) of oil
Vehicle should not be driven with loss by the converter (slippage) to increase fuel pressure is reached. This switch will also help
the park/neutral switch economy. By locking the converter clutch, a prevent engine seizure by shutting off the power
disconnected as Idle quality may be more effective coupling to the flywheel is to the fuel pump and causing the engine to stop
affected In PARK or NEUTRAL and a achieved. The converter clutch is operated by the when the oil pressure is lower than 4 psi.
Code 24 (VSS) may be set. ECM controlled torque converter clutch solenoid.

_J

SOLEMOIO ASM.

♦ 12V A A
T.C.C. BRAKE
D D i
SWITCH -1—

3RD GEAR
N.O. SWITCH
i

m T.C.C. TEST
LI
LEAD
r*
S
/

TRANSMISSION

LOCKING TAB
/
CASE
LOCATOR
® o
® o
TRANS. CONNECTOR

FIG.43 Torque converter clutch operation diagram

4-74 EMISSION CONTROLS
Electronic Spark Timing
Electronic Spark Timing (EST) is used on all
engines. The EST distributor contains no vacuum
or centrifugal advance and uses a 7-terminal
distributor module. It also has 4 wires going to a
4-terminal connector in addition to the
connectors normally found on HEI distributors. A
reference pulse, indicating both engine rpm and BARO
crankshaft position, is sent to the ECM. The ECM
determines the proper spark advance for the
engine operating conditions and sends an EST
pulse to the distributor.
The EST system is designed to optimize spark
timing for better control of exhaust emissions FIG.44 Electronic spark control schematic
and for fuel economy improvements. The ECM
monitors information from various engine
sensors, computes the desired spark timing and
changes the timing accordingly. A backup spark H3
advance system is incorporated in the module in
case of EST failure.

Electronic Spark Control

| SEE FIG'S. 44 to 48 CD
When engines are equipped with Electronic
Spark Control (ESC) in conjunction with EST,
ESC is used to reduce spark advance under
conditions of detonation. A knock sensor signals
a separate ESC controller to retard the timing
S3 CDji

c
when it senses engine knock. The ESC controller
signals the ECM which reduces spark advance
until no more signals are received from the m °2 CD COOLANT

knock sensor. CD ECM MONITORS Oj TEMPERATURE

SENSOR.BUT 02INPUT
NOT USED IN FUEL
CD THROTTLE POSITION
Direct Ignition System CALCULATION SENSOR

* SEE FIG. 49 CD ECM CD INJECTOR

Components of the Direct Ignition System CD DISTRIBUTOR PULSES
(DIS) are a coil pack, ignition module, crankshaft CD MAP
reluctor ring, magnetic sensor and the ECM. The
FIG.45 Electronic spark control timing inputs
coil pack consists of 2 separate,

ECM

BAROMETRIC PRESSURE

MANIFOLD VACUUM
--—--- 1
COOLANT TEMPERATURE

HEI REF 10

E
BATTERY S
EST MODE 12
T
IGNITION
COIL SIGNAL
TRIGGER
SIGNAL
CONVERTER
T
5 V BYPASS 11 [ABOVE 200 RPM
[AFTER 5-15 SEC

HEI MODULE (7 TERMINAL) GRD 13

FIG.46 Electronic spark control timing circuit during cranking mode

 EMISSION CONTROLS 4-75
ECM

BAROMETRIC PRESSURE

MANIFOLD VACUUM

PICKUP COOLANT TEMPERATURE

COIL
HEI REF 10
Hi
RELAY E
BATTERY S
EST MODE 12
T
IGNITION
COIL SIGNAL
TRIGGER
SIGNAL
CONVERTER
T
5 V BYPASS 11 [ABOVE 200 RPM
yYvrv [AFTER 5- IS SEC

HEI MODULE (7 TERMINAL) GRD 13

FIG.47 Electronic spark control timing circuit during running mode

FIG.48 Electronic spark control (ESC) knock sensor circuit for vehicles equipped

interchangeable, ignition coils. These coils The magnetic pickup sensor inserts through the ECM, as with the distributor systems. The
operate in the same manner as previous coils. the engine block, just above the pan rail in ECM controls the timing using crankshaft
Two coils are needed because each coil fires for proximity to the crankshaft reluctor ring. Notches position, engine rpm, engine temperature and
2 cylinders. The ignition module is located under in the crankshaft reluctor ring trigger the manifold absolute pressure sensing.
the coil pack and is connected to the ECM by a magnetic pickup sensor to provide timing
6 pin connector. The ignition module controls the information to the ECM. The magnetic pickup EMISSION CONTROL
primary circuits to the coils, turning them on and sensor provides a cam signal to identify correct
off and controls spark timing below 400 rpm and firing sequence and crank signals to trigger each
if the ECM bypass circuit becomes open or coil at the proper time. Various components are used to control
grounded. This system uses EST and control wires from exhaust emissions from a vehicle. These
4-76 EMISSION CONTROLS
ported vacuum signal is used for purging vapors
COMPUTER COMMAND CONTROL stored in the canister.
BATTERY CONTROLLED CANISTER PURGE
The ECM controls a solenoid valve which
controls vacuum to the purge valve in the
charcoal canister. In open loop, before a
specified time has expired and below a specified
rpm, the solenoid valve is energized and blocks
vacuum to the purge valve. When the system is
in closed loop, after a specified time and above
a specified rpm, the solenoid valve is de¬
energized and vacuum can be applied to the
purge valve. This releases the collected vapors
into the intake manifold. On systems not using
an ECM controlled solenoid, a Thermo Vacuum
Valve (TW) is used to control purge. See the
appropriate vehicle sections for checking
procedures.
AIR MANAGEMENT CONTROL
The air management system aids in the
FIG.49 Direct Ignition System (DIS) system schematic and operation reduction of exhaust emissions by supplying air
to either the catalytic converter, engine exhaust
manifold, or to the air cieaner. The ECM controls
components are controlled by the ECM based on scavenging of crankcase vapors. Fresh air from the air management system by energizing or de¬
different engine operating conditions. These the air cleaner is supplied to the crankcase, energizing an air switching valve. Operation of
components are described in the following mixed with blow-by gases and then passed the air switching valve is dependent upon such
paragraphs. Not all components are used on all through a PCV valve into the induction system. engine operating characteristics as coolant
engines. The primary mode of crankcase ventilation temperature, engine load, and acceleration (or
control is through the PCV valve which meters deceleration), all of which are sensed by the
Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) the mixture of fresh air and blow-by gases into ECM.
System the induction system at a rate dependent upon
EGR is a oxides of nitrogen (NOx) control manifold vacuum. PULSAIR REACTOR SYSTEM
which recycles exhaust gases through the To maintain the idle quality, the PCV valve t SEE FIG. 50
combustion cycle by admitting exhaust gases restricts the ventilation system flow whenever The Pulsair Injection Reactor (PAIR) system
into the intake manifold. The amount of exhaust intake manifold vacuum is designed to allow utilizes exhaust pressure pulsations to draw air
gas admitted is adjusted by a vacuum controlled excessive amounts of blow-by gases to into the exhaust system. Fresh air from the clean
valve in response to engine operating conditions. backflow through the breather assembly into the side of the air cleaner supplies filtered air to
If the valve is open, the recirculated exhaust gas air cleaner and through the throttle body to be avoid dirt build-up on the check valve seat. The
is released into the intake manifold to be drawn consumed by normal combustion. air cleaner also serves as a muffler for noise
into the combustion chamber. reduction.
The integral exhaust pressure modulated EGR Thermostatic Air Cleaner (TAC) The internal mechanism of the Pulsair valve
valve uses a transducer responsive to exhaust System reacts to 3 distinct conditions.
pressure to modulate the vacuum signal to the To assure optimum driveability under varying The firing of the engine creates a pulsating
EGR valve. The vacuum signal is provided by an climatic conditions, a heated intake air system is flow of exhaust gases which are of positive (+)
EGR vacuum port in the throttle body valve. used on engines. This system is designed to or negative (-) pressure. This pressure or
Under conditions when exhaust pressure is warm the air entering the TBI to insure uniform vacuum is transmitted through external tubes to
lower than the control pressure, the EGR signal inlet air temperatures. Under this condition, the the Pulsair valve.
is reduced by an air bleed within the transducer. EFI system can be calibrated to efficiently reduce 1. If the pressure is positive, the disc is
Under conditions when exhaust pressure is exhaust emission and to eliminate throttle blade forced to the closed position and no exhaust gas
higher than the control pressure, the air bleed is icing. The Thermae system used on vehicles is allowed to flow past the valve and into the air
closed and the EGR valve responds to an equipped with EFI operates identical to other supply line.
unmodified vacuum signal. Physical Thermae systems. 2. If there is a negative pressure (vacuum) in
arrangement of the valve components will vary the exhaust system at the valve, the disc will
depending on whether the control pressure is Evaporative Emission Control (EEC) open, allowing fresh air to mix with the exhaust
positive or negative. Systems gases.
The basic evaporative emission control 3. Due to the inertia of the system, the disc
Positive Crankcase Ventilation system used on all vehicles uses the carbon ceases to follow the pressure pulsations at high
(PCV) System canister storage method. This method transfers engine rpm. At this point, the disc remains
A closed Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) fuel vapor to an activated carbon storage device closed, preventing any further fresh air flow.
system is used to provide more complete for retention when the vehicle is not operating. A
 EMISSION CONTROLS 4-77
TO CYLINDER HEAD

[T] VALVE ASM. [TJSRACE

(~T~1 wc asm. f~>~|0ROUND STRAf
(~3~1 BRACKET

FILTERED prjOROMMET
AIR (~T1 VALVE
f~j~| ACTUATOR

TO CYLINDER HEAD

FILTERED
AIR

VIEW B
FIG.50 Pulsair injector system and operation

CATALYTIC CONVERTER • Always keep a dry chemical (class B) fire ground. Charges of the same polarity are drained
Of all emission control devices available, the extinguisher near the area. off, leaving the person highly charged with the
catalytic converter is the most effective in opposite polarity. Static charges of either type
r* * Due to the amount of fuel
reducing tailpipe emissions. The major tailpipe can cause damage, therefore, it is important to
pressure In the fuel lines, before
pollutants are hydrocarbons (HC), carbon use care when handling and testing electronic
doing any work to the fuel system,
monoxide (CO), and oxides of nitrogen (NOx). components.
the fuel system should be
depressurized. To prevent possible electrostatic
discharge damage to the ECM, do
Electrostatic Discharge Damage not touch the connector pins or
SERVICE PRECAUTIONS
Electronic components used in the control soldered components on the circuit
system are often design to carry very low board. When handling a PROM,
When working around any part of the fuel voltage and are very susceptible to damage Mem-Cal or Cal-Pak, do not touch
system, take precautionary steps to prevent fire caused by electrostatic discharge. It is possible the component leads and remove
and/or explosion: for less than 100 volts of static electricity to the integrated circuit from the
• Disconnect negative terminal from battery cause damage to some electronic components. carrier.
(except when testing with battery voltage is By comparison it takes as much as 4000 volts
required). for a person to even feel the zap of a static
• When possible, use a flashlight instead of discharge. DIAGNOSTIC ENGINE
a drop light. There are several ways for a person to
• Keep all open flame and smoking material
COMPUTER CODES
become statically charged. The most common
out of the area. methods of charging are by friction and
• Use a shop cloth or similar to catch fuel induction. An example of charging by friction is
when opening a fuel system. a person sliding across a car seat, in which a ALCL/ALDL Connector
• Relieve fuel system pressure before charge as much as 25000 volts can build up. The Assembly Line Communication Link
servicing. Charging by induction occurs when a person (ALCL) also known as the Assembly Line
• Use eye protection. with well insulated shoes stands near a highly Diagnostic Link (ALDL) is a diagnostic connector
charged object and momentarily touches located in the passenger compartment usually
4-78 EMISSION CONTROLS
of the ALDL connector with the ignition switch in
the ON position. The ALDL scanner tool can
now read 5 of the 20 parameters on the data
stream. These parameters are as mode status,
TERMINAL IDENTIFICATION
oxygen sensor voltage, rpm, block leam and idle
air control. There are 2 ways to enter the backup
A GROUND j^~j
T.CC.(IF USED) mode. Using a scan tool is one way; putting a
B DIAGNOSTIC TERMINAL |~^~j 3.9 kilo-ohms resistor across terminals A and B
FUEL PUMP (IF USED) of the ALDL is another.
C A.I.R. (IF USED) ,-,
H BRAKE SENSE SPECIAL MODE - 10 KILO-OHMS
D SERVICE ENGINE >-> SPEED INPUT
SOON LAMP-IF USED | . This special mode is entered by applying a
SERIAL DATA (U)
10K ohms resistor across terminals A and B.
(SEE SPECIAL TOOLS)
E SERIAL DATA
(SEE SPECIAL TOOLS) When this happens the ECM does the following:
1. Allows all of the serial data to be read.
FIG.51 Diagnostic ALDL connector identification 2. Bypasses all timers.
3. Add a calibrated spark advance.
4. Enables the canister purge solenoid on
some engines.
under the instrument panel. The assembly plant numeric order (lowest number first). The trouble
5. Idles at 1000 rpm fixed idle air control and
were the vehicles originate use the connector to code series will repeat as long as the B terminal
fixed base pulse width on the injector.
check the engine for proper operation before it is grounded.
6. Forces the idle air control to reset at part
leaves the plant. Terminal B is the diagnostic A trouble code indicates a problem in a given
throttle (approximately 2000 rpm).
TEST terminal (lead) and it can be connected to circuit (Code 14, for example, indicates a
terminal A, or ground, to enter the Diagnostic 7. Disables the park/neutral restrict functions
problem in the coolant sensor circuit; this
mode or the Reid Service Mode. includes the coolant sensor, connector harness, OPEN OR ROAD TEST MODE - 20 KILO-
and ECM). The procedure for pinpointing the OHMS
Reading Codes and Diagnostic problem can be found in diagnosis. Similar The system is in this mode during normal
Modes charts are provided for each code. operation and is used by a scan tool to extract
This information is able to be read by putting Also in this mode all ECM controlled relays data while driving the vehicle.
the ECM into 1 of 4 different modes. These and solenoids except the fuel pump relay. This
modes are entered by inserting a specific allows checking the circuits which may be ALDL SCAN TESTER INFORMATION
amount of resistance between the ALDL difficult to energize without driving the vehicle An ALDL display unit (ALDL tester, scanner,
connector terminals A and B. The modes and and being under particular operating conditions. monitor, etc), allows you to read the engine
resistances needed to enter these modes are as The IAC valve will move to its fully extended control system information from the ALDL
follows: position on most models, block the idle air connector under the instrument panel. It can
passage. This is useful in checking the minimum provide information faster than a digital
DIAGNOSTIC MODES - 0 OHMS idle speed. voltmeter or ohmmeter can. The scan tool does
When 0 resistance is between terminals A and not diagnose the exact location of the problem.
FIELD SERVICE MODE - 0 OHMS
B of the ALDL connector, the diagnostic mode is The tool supplies information about the ECM, the
entered. There are 2 positions to this mode. One When the ALDL connector terminal B is
information that it is receiving and the
with the engine OFF, but the ignition ON; the grounded with the engine running, the ECM goes
into the field service mode. In this mode, the commands that it is sending plus special
other is when the engine is running called Reid information such as integrator and block leam.
Service Mode. SERVICE ENGINE SOON light flashes closed or
open loop and indicates the rich/lean status of To use an ALDL display tool you should
If the diagnostic mode is entered with the understand thoroughly how an engine control
the engine. The ECM runs the engine at a fixed
engine in the OFF position, trouble codes will system operates.
ignition timing advanced above the base setting.
flash and the idle air control motor will pulsate in An ALDL scanner or monitor puts a fuel
and out. Also, the relays and solenoids are The SERVICE ENGINE SOON light will show
whether the system is in Open loop or Closed injection system into a special test mode. This
energized with the exception of the fuel pump mode commands an idle speed of 1000 rpm.
and injector. loop. In Open loop the SERVICE ENGINE SOON
The idle quality cannot be evaluated with a tester
As a bulb and system check, the SERVICE light flashes 2 times and one half times per
plugged in. Also the test mode commands a
ENGINE SOON light will come on with the ignition second. In Closed loop the light flashes once per
fixed spark with no advance. On vehicles with
switch ON and the engine not running. When second. Also in closed loop, the light will stay
Electronic Spark Control (ESC), there will be a
the engine is started, the SERVICE ENGINE OUT most of the time if the system is too lean. It
fixed spark, but it will be advanced. On vehicles
SOON light will turn off. If the SERVICE ENGINE will stay ON most of the time if the system is too
with ESC, there might be a serious spark knock,
SOON light remains on, the self-diagnostic rich. In either case the Reid Service mode check,
this spark knock could be bad enough so as not
system has detected a problem. which is part of the Diagnostic circuit check, will
being able to road test the vehicle in the ALDL
If the B terminal is then grounded with the lead you into choosing the correct diagnostic
test mode. Be sure to check the tool
ignition ON, engine not running, each trouble chart to refer to.
manufacturer for instructions on special test
code will flash and repeat 3 times. If more than BACK-UP MODE - 3.9 KILO-OHMS modes which should overcome these
1 problem has been detected, each trouble code The backup mode is entered by applying 3.9 limitations.
will flash 3 times. Trouble codes will flash in kilo-ohms resistance between terminals A and B When a tester is used with a fuel injected
 EMISSION CONTROLS 4-79

engine, it bypasses the timer that keeps the SCAN TOOLS FOR INTERMITTENTS related to certain parameters that can be
system in Open loop for a certain period of time. In some scan tool applications, the data checked on the scan tool, they should be
When all Closed loop conditions are met, the update rate may make the tool less effective than checked while driving the vehicle. If there does
engine will go into Closed loop as soon as the a voltmeter, such as when trying to detect an not seem to be any correlation between the
vehicle is started. This means that the air intermittent problem which lasts for a very short problem and any specific circuit, the scan tool
management system will not function properly time. Some scan tools have a snapshot function can be checked on each position. Watching for
and air may go directly to the converter as soon which stores several seconds or even minutes of a period of time to see if there is any change in
as the engine is started. operation to located an intermittent problem. the reading that indicates intermittent operation.
These tools cannot diagnose everything. They Scan tools allow one to manipulate the wiring The scan tool is also an easy way to compare
do not tell where a problem is located in a circuit. harness or components under the hood with the the operating parameters of a poorly operating
The diagnostic charts to pinpoint the problems engine not running while observing the scan engine with typical scan data for the vehicle
must still be used. These tester’s do not let you tool’s readout. being serviced or those of a known good engine.
know if a solenoid or relay has been turned on. The scan tool can be plugged in and observed For example, a sensor may shift in value but not
They only tell the ECM command. To find out if while driving the vehicle under the condition set a trouble code. Comparing the sensor’s
a solenoid has been turned on, check it with a when the SERVICE ENGINE SOON light turns on reading with those of a known good parameters
suitable test light or digital voltmeter, or see if momentarily or when the engine driveability is may uncover the problem.
vacuum through the solenoid changes. momentarily poor. If the problem seems to be The scan tool has the ability to save time in
4-80 EMISSION CONTROLS
diagnosis and prevent the replacement of good integrator is displaying 128, it indicates a neutral limits of control, the engine hardware should be
parts. The key to using the scan tool condition. This means that the oxygen sensor is checked to determine the cause of the limits
successfully for diagnosis lies in the ability to seeing results of the 14.7:1 air/fuel mixture being reached, vacuum leaks, sticking injectors,
understand the system he is trying to diagnose burned in the cylinders. etc.
as well as an understanding of the scan tool’s ,*• An air leak In the system (a lean If the integrator is lied to, for example, if the
operation and limitations. condition) would cause the oxygen oxygen sensor lead was grounded (lean signal)
sensor voltage to decrease while the integrator and block learn would add fuel to
the integrator would Increase (add the engine to cause it to run rich. However, with
CLEARING TROUBLE more fuel) to temporarily correct the oxygen sensor lead grounded, the ECM
for the lean condition. If this would continue seeing a lean condition
CODES
happened the Injector pulse width eventually setting a Code 44 and the fuel control
would Increase. system would change to open loop operations.
When the ECM finds a problem with the CLOSED LOOP FUEL CONTROL
system, the SERVICE ENGINE SOON light will BLOCK LEARN
Although the integrator can correct fuel The purpose of closed loop fuel control is to
come on and a trouble code will be recorded in precisely maintain an air/fuel mixture 14.7:1.
the ECM memory. If the problem is intermittent, delivery over a wide range, it is only for a
temporary correction. Therefore, another control When the air/fuel mixture is maintained at
the SERVICE ENGINE SOON light will go out after
called block learn was added. Although it cannot 14.7:1, the catalytic converter is able to operate
10 seconds, when the fault goes away. However at maximum efficiency which results in lower
the trouble code will stay in the ECM memory make as many corrections as the integrator, it
does so for a longer period of time. It gets its emission levels.
until the battery voltage to the ECM is removed.
name from the fact that the operating range of Since the ECM controls the air/fuel mixture, it
Removing the battery voltage for 10 seconds will
the engine for any given combinations of rpm needs to check its output and correct the fuel
clear all trouble codes. Do this by disconnecting
and load is divided into 16 cell or blocks. mixture for deviations from the ideal ratio. The
the ECM harness from the positive battery
The computer has a given fuel delivery stored oxygen sensor feeds this output information
terminal pigtail for 10 seconds with the key in the
in each block. As the operating range gets into a back to the ECM.
OFF position, or by removing the ECM fuse for
10 seconds with the key OFF. given block the fuel delivery will be based on
what value is stored in the memory in that block.
^ To prevent ECM damage, the key ENGINE PERFORMANCE
Again, just like the integrator, the number
must be OFF when disconnecting
represents the on-time of the injector. Also, just DIAGNOSIS
and reconnecting ECM power.
like the integrator, the number 128 represents no
correction to the value that is stored in the cell or
block. When the integrator increases or Engine performance diagnosis procedures are
INTEGRATOR AND BLOCK guides that will lead to the most probable causes
decreases, block learn which is also watching
LEARN the integrator will make corrections in the same of engine performance complaints. They
direction. As the block learn makes corrections, consider the components of the fuel, ignition,
the integrator correction will be reduced until and mechanical systems that could cause a
The integrator and block learn functions of the particular complaint, and then outline repairs in a
ECM are responsible for making minor finally the integrator will return to 128 if the block
learn has corrected the fuel delivery. logical sequence.
adjustments to the air/fuel ratio on the fuel It is important to determine if the SERVICE
injected GM vehicles. These small adjustments BLOCK LEARN MEMORY ENGINE SOON light is on or has come on for a
are necessary to compensate for pinpoint air Block learn operates on 1 of 2 types of short interval while driving. If the SERVICE
leaks and normal wear. memories depending on application, non-volatile ENGINE SOON light has come on, the Computer
The integrator and block learn are 2 separate and volatile. The non-volatile memories retain the Command Control System should be checked
ECM memory functions which control fuel value in the block learn cells even when the for stored TROUBLE CODES which may
delivery. The integrator makes a temporary ignition switch is turned OFF. When the engine indicate the cause for the performance
change and the block learn makes a more is restarted, the fuel delivery for a given block complaint.
permanent change. Both of these functions apply will be based on information stored in memory. All of the symptoms can be caused by worn
only while the engine is in CLOSED LOOP. They The volatile memories lose the numbers out or defective parts such as spark plugs,
represent the on-time of the injector. Also, stored in the block learn cells when the ignition ignition wiring, etc. If time and/or mileage
integrator and block learn controls fuel delivery is turned to the OFF position. Upon restarting, indicate that parts should be replaced, it is
on the fuel injected engines as does the MC the block learn starts at 128 in every block and recommended that it be done.
solenoid dwell on the CCC carbureted engines. corrects from that point as necessary.
p+ Before checking any system
INTEGRATOR INTEGRATOR/BLOCK LEARN LIMITS controlled by the Electronic Fuel
Integrator is the term applied to a means of Both the integrator and block learn have limits Injection (EFI) system, the
temporary change in fuel delivery. Integrator is which will vary from engine to engine. If the Diagnostic Circuit Check must be
displayed through the ALDL data line and mixture is off enough so that the block learn performed or misdiagnosis may
monitored with a scanner as a number between reaches the limit of its control and still cannot occur. If the complaint Involves the
0 and 255 with an average of 128. The integrator correct the condition, the integrator would also SERVICE ENGINE SOON light, go
monitors the oxygen sensor output voltage and go to its limit of control in the same direction and directly to the Diagnostic Circuit
adds and subtracts fuel depending on the lean or the engine would then begin to run poorly. If the Check.
rich condition of the oxygen sensor. When the integrators and block learn are close to or at their
 EMISSION CONTROLS 4-81
Basic Troubleshooting indicates a problem in the cooling sensor circuit. Some vehicles will use more
This includes the coolant sensor, its electrical sensors than others. Also, a
The following explains how to complete general diagnostic
harness, and the ECM. Since the self-diagnostic
activate the trouble code signal section Is outlined. The steps and
system cannot diagnose every possible fault in
light in the instrument cluster and procedures can be altered as
the system, the absence of a trouble code does
gives an explanation of what each necessary according to the specific
not mean the system is trouble-free. To
code means. This Is not a full model being diagnosed and the
determine problems within the system which do
system troubleshooting and sensors it Is equipped with. If the
not activate a trouble code, a system
isolation procedure. performance check must be made. battery power is disconnected for
Before suspecting the system or any of its In the case of an intermittent fault in the any reason, the volatile memory
components as faulty, check the ignition system system, the SERVICE ENGINE SOON light will go resets and the learning process
including distributor, timing, spark plugs and out when the fault goes away, but the trouble begins again. A change may be
wires. Check the engine compression, air code will remain in the memory of the ECM. noted in the performance of the
cleaner, and emission control components not Therefore, it a trouble code can be obtained even vehicle. To teach the vehicle,
controlled by the ECM. Also check the intake though the SERVICE ENGINE SOON light is not ensure that the engine Is at normal
manifold, vacuum hoses and hose connectors on, the trouble code must be evaluated. It must operating temperature. Then, the
for leaks. be determined if the fault is intermittent or if the vehicle should be driven at part
The following symptoms could indicate a engine must be at certain operating conditions throttle, with moderate
possible problem with the system: (under load, etc.) before the SERVICE ENGINE acceleration and idle conditions
1. Detonation SOON light will come on. Some trouble codes until normal performance returns.
2. Stalls or rough idle-cold will not be recorded in the ECM until the engine
3. Stalls or rough idle-hot has been operated at part throttle for about 5-18 TBI SYSTEM DIAGNOSTIC
4. Missing minutes.
CHARTS
5. Hesitation
Fuel System Pressure Testing
6. Surges
7. Poor gasoline mileage Due to the varied application of components, To properly diagnosis driveability problems
8. Sluggish or spongy performance a general procedure is outlined. For the exact you need to use the following charts. Make
9. Hard starting-cold procedure for the vehicle being service use Chart certain the charts cover the engine your car has.
10. Objectionable exhaust odors (that rotten A7 for the appropriate engine. A fuel system If your check engine light is not lit, check for
egg smell) pressure test is part of several of the diagnostic engine stored engine codes. If any codes are
11. Cuts out charts and symptom checks. stored write them down for reference later. Clear
12. Improper idle speed 1. Relieve the fuel pressure from the fuel the codes as described earlier. Road test the
As a bulb and system check, the SERVICE system. Turn the ignition OFF and remove the vehicle to see if any of the codes return. Never
ENGINE SOON light will come on when the air cleaner assembly (if necessary). try to fix a code problem until you’re sure that it
ignition switch is turned to the ON position but 2. Plug the Thermae vacuum port if required comes back. It may have been a old code from
the engine is not started. The SERVICE ENGINE on the TBI unit. years ago that was never cleared or a code that
SOON light will also produce the trouble code or 3. Uncouple the fuel supply flexible hose in was set do to a rain storm, battery jump, etc.
codes by a series of flashes which translate as the engine compartment and install fuel pressure After clearing any codes and checking that
follows. When the diagnostic test terminal under gauge J29658/BT8205 or equivalent in the they do not return. If the car drives fine your
the dash is grounded, with the ignition in the ON pressure line or install the fuel pressure gauge finished. But if there are no codes and the car
position and the engine not running, the SERVICE into the pressure line connector located near the runs poorly you’ll need to check the symptoms
ENGINE SOON light will flash once, pause, then left engine compartment frame rail. Connection charts. The problem is most likely not the
flash twice in rapid succession. This is a Code of the fuel gauge will vary accordingly to all the computer or the devices it controls but the
12, which indicates that the diagnostic system is different engine application. ignition system or engine mechanical.
working. After a long pause, the Code 12 will 4. Be sure to tighten the fuel line to the gauge If you do have a code(s) that returns start with
repeat itself 2 more times. The cycle will then to ensure that there no leaks during testing. the lowest code and follow the proper chart. You
repeat itself until the engine is started or the 5. Start the engine and observe the fuel must follow every step of the chart and not jump
ignition is turned off. pressure reading. The fuel pressure should be from test to test or you’ll never be certain to find
When the engine is started, the SERVICE 9-13 psi (62-90 kPa). and fix the real problem.
ENGINE SOON light will remain on for a few 6. Relieve the fuel pressure. Remove the fuel Start with the lowest to highest code chart,
seconds, then turn off. if the SERVICE ENGINE pressure gauge and reinstall the fuel line. Be sure making sure to use the charts for your engine. If
SOON light remains on, the self-diagnostic to install a new O-ring on the fuel feed line. you have a 50 series code, like code 54. Always
system has detected a problem. If the test 7. Start the engine and check for fuel leaks. check those out first. They are rare but usually
terminal is then grounded, the trouble code will Stop the engine and remove the plug covering indicate a problem with the computer itself or its
flash 3 times. If more than 1 problem is found, the Thermae vacuum port on the TBI unit and ability to test itself properly.
each trouble code will flash 3 times. Trouble install the air cleaner assembly. Component repair and
codes will flash in numerical order (lowest code replacement are covered in Section
number to highest). The trouble codes series will 5 Fuel System, this section will only
repeat as long as the test terminal is grounded. deal with the testing of the system
A trouble code indicates a problem with a for both driveablities and emission
given circuit. For example, trouble Code 14 problems.
THROTTLE BODY INJECTION DIAGNOSTIC CHARTS
4-82 EMISSION CONTROLS
 EMISSION CONTROLS 4-83

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 EMISSION CONTROLS 4-85

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4-100 EMISSION CONTROLS
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4-102 EMISSION CONTROLS
The Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor is used to loose and if it is out of adjustment, the idle
Multi-Port Fuel Injection measure the mass of air that is drawn into the quality or WOT performance may be poor. A
(MPI) engine cylinders. It is located just ahead of the loose TPS can cause intermittent bursts of fuel
air throttle in the intake system and consists of a from the injectors and an unstable idle because
heated film which measures the mass of air, the ECM thinks the throttle is moving. This
The Multi-Port Fuel Injection (MPI) system is rather than just the volume. A resistor is used to should cause a trouble code to be set. Once a
controlled by an Electronic Control Module measure the temperature of the film at 758 above trouble code is set, the ECM will use a preset
(ECM) which monitors engine operations and ambient temperature. As the ambient (outside) value for TPS and some vehicle performance
generates output signals to provide the correct air temperature rises, more energy is required to may return. A small amount of engine coolant Is
air/fuel mixture, ignition timing and engine idle maintain the heated film at the higher routed through the throttle assembly to prevent
speed control. Input to the control unit is temperature and the control unit used this freezing inside the throttle bore during cold
provided by an oxygen sensor, coolant difference in required energy to calculate the operation.
temperature sensor, detonation sensor, hot film mass of the incoming air. The control unit uses
mass sensor and throttle position sensor. The this information to determine the duration of fuel
ECM also receives information concerning injection pulse, timing and EGR. ELECTRONIC CONTROL
engine rpm, road speed, transmission gear The throttle body incorporates an Idle Air
position, power steering and air conditioning.
MODULE '.
Control (IAC) that provides for a bypass channel
The injectors are located, one at each intake through which air can flow. It consists of an
port, rather than the single injector found on the orifice and pintle which is controlled by the ECM The fuel injection system is controlled by an
earlier throttle body system. The injectors are through a step motor. The IAC provides air flow on-board computer, the electronic control
mounted on a fuel rail and are activated by a for idle and allows additional air during cold start module (ECM), usually located in the passenger
signal from the electronic control module. The until the engine reaches operating temperature. compartment. The ECM monitors engine
injector is a solenoid-operated valve which As the engine temperature rises, the opening operations and environmental conditions
remains open depending on the width of the through which air passes is slowly closed. (ambient temperature, barometric pressure, etc.)
electronic pulses (length of the signal) from the The Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) provides needed to calculate the fuel delivery time (pulse
ECM; the longer the open time, the more fuel is the control unit with information on throttle width/injector on-time) of the fuel injector. The
injected. In this manner, the air/fuel mixture can position, in order to determine injector pulse fuel pulse may be modified by the ECM to
be precisely controlled for maximum width and hence correct mixture. The TPS is account for special operating conditions, such
performance with minimum emissions. connected to the throttle shaft on the throttle as cranking, cold starting, altitude, acceleration
Fuel is pumped from the tank by a high body and consists of as potentiometer with on and deceleration.
pressure fuel pump, located inside the fuel tank. end connected to a 5 volt source from the ECM The ECM controls the exhaust emissions by
It is a positive displacement roller vane pump. and the other to ground. A third wire is modifying fuel delivery to achieve, as nearly as
The impeller serves as a vapor separator and pre¬ connected to the ECM to measure the voltage possible an air/fuel ratio of 14.7:1. The injector
charges the high pressure assembly. A pressure output from the TPS which changes as the on-time is determined by the various sensor
regulator maintains 28-36 psi (28-50 psi on throttle valve angle is changed (accelerator pedal inputs to the ECM. By increasing the injector
turbocharged engines) in the fuel line to the moves). At the closed throttle position, the pulse, more fuel is delivered, enriching the air/
injectors and the excess fuel is fed back to the output is low (approximately 0.4 volts); as the fuel ratio. Pulses are sent to the injector in 2
tank. A fuel accumulator is used to dampen the throttle valve opens, the output increases to a different modes, synchonized and non-
hydraulic line hammer in the system created maximum 5 volts at Wide Open Throttle (WOT). synchronized.
when all injectors open simultaneously. The TPS can be misadiusted open, shorted, or In synchronized mode operation, the injector

FUEL FILTER
FLEXIBLE HOSE
FUEL PRESSURE GAUGE TOOL
PRESSURE LINE
PRESSURE
RETURN LINE
REGULATOR
BLEED HOSE

IN-TANK PUMP

FUEL PRESSURE MANIFOLD VACUUM

HOSE CONNECTION FUEL PUMP STRAINER PULSATOR
CONNECTION

FIG.53 Multi-port Fuel Injection (MPI) system component

 EMISSION CONTROLS 4-103
is pulsed once for each distributor reference PROM and the fuel pump will build up pressure. The
pulse. In nonsynchronized mode operation, the ECM then checks the coolant temperature
To allow 1 model of the ECM to be used for
injector is pulsed once every 12.5 milliseconds sensor, throttle position sensor and crank
many different vehicles, a device called a
or 6.25 milliseconds depending on calibration. sensor, then the ECM determines the proper air/
Calibrator (or PROM) is used. The PROM is
This pulse time is totally independent of fuel ratio for starting. This ranges from 1.5:1 at
located inside the ECM and has information on
distributor reference. -33°F (-36°C) to 14.7:1 at 201°F (94°C).
the vehicle’s weight, engine, transmission, axle
The ECM constantly monitors the input ratio and other components. The ECM controls the amount of fuel that is
information, processes this information from delivered in the Starting Mode by changing how
While one ECM part number can be used by
various sensors, and generates output long the injectors are turned on and off. This is
many different vehicles, a PROM is very specific
commands to the various systems that affect done by pulsing the injectors for very short
and must be used for the right vehicle. For this
vehicle performance. times.
reason, it is very important to check the latest
The ability of the ECM to recognize and adjust
parts book and or service bulletin information for Clear Flood Mode
for vehicle variations (engine transmission,
the correct PROM part number when replacing
vehicle weight, axle ratio, etc.) is provided by a the PROM. If for some reason the engine should become
removable calibration unit (PROM) that is An ECM used for service (called a controller) flooded, provisions have been made to clear this
programmed to tailor the ECM for the particular comes without a PROM. The PROM from the old condition. To clear the flood, the driver must
vehicle. There is a specific ECM/PROM ECM must be carefully removed and installed in depress the accelerator pedal enough to open to
combination for each specific vehicle, and the the new ECM. wide-open throttle position. The ECM then issues
combinations are not interchangeable with those completely turns off the fuel flow. The ECM holds
of other vehicles. Cal-Pak this operational mode as long as the throttle
The ECM also performs the diagnostic A device called a Cal-Pak is added to allow stays in the wide open position and the engine
function of the system. It can recognize fuel delivery if other parts of the ECM are rpm is below 600. If the throttle position
operational problems, alert the driver through the damaged. It has an access door in the ECM, and becomes less than 62% (2.9mv), the ECM
SERVICE ENGINE SOON light, and store a code removal and replacement procedures are the returns to the starting mode. For throttle
or codes which identify the problem areas to aid same as with the PROM. If the Cal-Pak is openings up to 62% (2.9mv) the ECM increases
the in making repairs. missing, a Code 52 will be set the fuel flow (based on TPS).
Instead of an edgeboard Run Mode
Mem-Cal
connector, newer ECM’s have a
| SEE FIGS. 30 to 35
header connector which attaches This assembly contains the functions of the
There are 2 different run modes. When the
solidly to the ECM case. Like the PROM Cal-Pak and the ESC module used on
engine is first started and the rpm is above 400,
edgeboard connectors, the header other GM applications. Like the PROM, it
the system goes into open loop operation. In
connectors have a different pinout contains the calibrations needed for a specific
open loop operation, the ECM will ignore the
identification for different engine vehicle as well as the back-up fuel control
signal from the oxygen (0^ sensor and calculate
designs. circuitry required if the rest of the ECM becomes
the injector on-time based upon inputs from the
damaged or faulty.
The ECM consists of 3 parts; a Controller (the coolant sensor, MAF sensors and MAT sensors.
ECM without a PROM), a Calibrator called a Synchronized Mode During open loop operation, the ECM analyzes
PROM (Programmable Read Only Memory) and In synchronized mode operation, the injector the following items to determine when the
a Cal-Pak. is pulsed once for each distributor reference system is ready to go to the closed loop mode.
pulse. 1. The oxygen sensor varying voltage output.
(This is dependent on temperature).
Nonsyncronized Mode 2. The coolant sensor must be above
In nonsynchronized mode operation, the specified temperature.
injector is pulsed once every 12.5 milliseconds 3. A specific amount of time must elapse
or 6.25 milliseconds depending on calibration. after starting the engine. These values are stored
This pulse time is totally independent of in the PROM.
distributor reference pulses. When these conditions have been met, the
Nonsynchronized mode results only under the system goes into closed loop operation In closed
following conditions: loop operation, the ECM will calculate the air/fuel
1. The fuel pulse width is too small to be ratio (injector on time) based upon the signal
delivered accurately by the injector from the oxygen sensor. The ECM will decrease
(approximately 1.5 milliseconds) the on-time if the air/fuel ratio is too rich, and will
2. During the delivery of prime pulses (prime increase the on-time if the air/fuel ratio is too
pulses charge the intake manifold with fuel lean.

1. CAL-PAK
during or just prior to engine starting) Acceleration Mode
2. Removal tool 3. During acceleration enrichment
4. During deceleration leanout When the engine is required to accelerate, the
FIG.54 Cal-Pak removal or installation opening of the throttle valve(s) causes a rapid
Starting Mode increase in Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP).
When the engine is first turned ON, the ECM This rapid increase in MAP causes fuel to
will turn on the fuel pump relay for 2 seconds condense on the manifold walls. The ECM
 4-104 EMISSION CONTROLS
senses this increase in throttle angle and MAP,
and supplies additional fuel for a short period of IflNSIDE OF ECM *0
time. This prevents the engine from stumbling FUEL PUMP
due to too lean a mixture. RELAY
IGNITION
Deceleration Mode FEED
Upon deceleration, a leaner fuel mixture is (ON)
required to reduce emission of hydrocarbons (COP)
(HC) and carbon monoxide (CO). To adjust the
injection on-time, the ECM uses the decrease in
MAP and the decrease in throttle position to
calculate a decrease in injector on time. To
maintain an idle fuel ratio of 14.7:1, fuel output
COOLANT
is momentarily reduced. This is done because of SENSOR
the fuel remaining in the intake manifold. The
ECM can cut off the fuel completely for short FIG.55 Back up circuit diagram
periods of time.
Battery Voltage Correction Mode
The purpose of battery voltage correction is to
compensate for variations in battery voltage to e 131! El El El Big
fuel pump and injector response. The ECM
compensates by increasing the engine idle rpm.
mehiiiesk
Battery voltage correction takes place in all TERMINAL IDENTIFICATION
operating modes. When battery voltage is low,
the spark delivered by the distributor may be A GROUND K SERIAL DATA
low. To correct this low battery voltage problem, • DIAGNOSTIC TERMMAL F TCC(IFUSEO)
the ECM can do any or all of the following:
a. Increase injector on time (increase C A.I.R. (IF USED) G FUEL FUMF (VUSED)
fuel)
b. Increase idle rpm 0 loONUGHT(5fUSED) M SIWALDATA (* USED)
c. Increase ignition dwell time FIG.56 Diagnostic ALDL connector identification
Fuel Cut-off Mode
When the ignition is OFF, no fuel will be
4. The ECM circuit fails to insure the Vehicles with the check connector, connect or
delivered by the injectors. Fuel will also be cut
computer operating pulse. The computer jump terminal TE1, the diagnostic TEST terminal
off if the ECM does not receive a reference pulse
operating pulse (COP) is an internal ECM feature to terminal El, or ground circuit. This connector
from the distributor. To prevent dieseling, fuel
designed to inform the fuel backup circuit that is a very useful tool in diagnosing EFI engines.
delivery is completely stopped as soon as the
the ECM is able to function. Important information from the ECM is available
engine is stopped. The ECM will not allow any
Some engines run erratically in the fuel at this terminal and can be read with one of the
fuel supply until it receives distributor reference
backup mode, while others (5.0L and 5.7L) many popular scanner tools.
pulses which prevents flooding.
seemed to run very well. Code 52 will be set to
Converter Protection Mode indicate a missing Cal-Pak. The fuel backup
In this mode the ECM estimates the circuit is ignition fed and senses Throttle FUEL CONTROL SYSTEM
temperature of the catalytic converter and then Position Sensor (TPS), Coolant Temperature
modifies fuel delivery to protect the converter Sensor (CTS) and rpm. The fuel backup circuit
controls the fuel pump relay and the pulse width The fuel control system is made up of the
from high temperatures. When the ECM has
of the injectors. following components:
determined that the converter may overheat, it
1. Fuel supply system
will cause open loop operation and will enrichen ALDL/Check Connector
the fuel delivery. A slightly richer mixture will 2. Throttle body assembly
The Assembly Line Diagnostic Link (ALDL), is 3. Fuel injectors
then cause the converter temperature to be
a diagnostic connector located in the passenger 4. Fuel rail
reduced.
compartment, usually under the instrument 5. Fuel pressure regulator
Fuel Backup Mode panel. 6. idle Air Control (IAC)
The ECM functions in the fuel backup circuit The assembly plant were the vehicles 7. Fuel pump
mode if any one, or any combination, of the originate use these connectors to check the 8. Fuel pump relay
following exist: engine for proper operation before it leaves the 9. In-line fuel filter
1. The ECM voltage is lower than 9 volts. plant. Vehicles with the ALDL system, enter the The fuel control system starts with the fuel in
2. The cranking voltage is below 9 volts. Diagnostic mode or the Reid Service Mode by the fuel tank. An electric fuel pump, located in
3. The PROM is missing or not functioning. connecting or jumping terminal B, the diagnostic the fuel tank with the fuel gauge sending unit,
TEST terminal to terminal A, or ground circuit. pumps fuel to the fuel rail through an in-line fuel
 EMISSION CONTROLS 4-105
filter. The pump is designed to provide fuel at a The injectors are controlled by the ECM. They Fuel Injector
pressure above the pressure needed by the deliver fuel in one of several modes as A fuel injector is installed in the intake
injectors. A pressure regulator in the fuel rail previously described. In order to properly control manifold at each cylinder. Mounting is
keeps fuel available to the injectors at a constant the fuel supply, the fuel pump is operated by the approximately 70-100mm from the center line
pressure. Unused fuel is returned to the fuel tank ECM through the fuel pump relay and oil of the intake valve on V6 and V8 engine
by a separate line. pressure switch. applications. The nozzle spray pattern is on a 25
In order for the fuel injectors to supply a degree angle. The fuel injector is a solenoid
precise amount of fuel at the command of the Throttle Body Unit
operated device controlled by the ECM. The ECM
ECM, the fuel supply system maintains a The throttle body unit has a throttle valve to turns on the solenoid, which opens the valve
constant pressure (approximately 35 psi) drop control the amount of air delivered to the engine. which allows fuel delivery. The fuel, under
across the injectors. As manifold vacuum The TPS and IAC valve are also mounted onto pressure, is injected in a conical spray pattern at
changes, the fuel system pressure regulator the throttle body. The throttle body contains the opening of the intake valve. The fuel, which
controls the fuel supply pressure to compensate. vacuum ports located at,-above or below the is not used by the injectors, passes through the
The fuel pressure accumulator used on select throttle valve. These vacuum ports generate the pressure regulator before returning to the fuel
models, isolates fuel line noise. The fuel rail is vacuum signals needed by various components. tank.
bolted rigidly to the engine and it provides the On some vehicles, the engine coolant is An injector that is partly open, will cause loss
upper mount for the fuel injectors. It also directed through the coolant cavity at the bottom of fuel pressure after the engine is shut down, so
contains a spring loaded pressure tap fortesting of the throttle body to warm the throttle valve and long crank time would be noticed on some
the fuel system or relieving the fuel system prevent icing. engines. Also dieseling could occur because
pressure.

Gasket
Throttle body
assembly
Idle stop screw
Idle stop screw
assembly
Idle stop screw
assembly spring
Throttle position
sensor (TPS)
Clean air cover
Gasket
IAC valve and
coolant cover
assembly
Gasket

FIG.57 Explode view of the throttle body used on MPI system

4-106 EMISSION CONTROLS
some fuel could be delivered after the ignition is
turned to OFF position.
FUEL INLET FILTER
There are 2 O-ring seals used. The lower 0-
ring seals the injector at the intake manifold. The
O-rings are lubricated and should be replaced
whenever the injector is removed from the intake
manifold. The O-rings provide thermal insulation, SOLENOID ASSEMBLY
thus preventing the formation of vapor bubbles
and promoting good hot start characteristics.
The O-rings also prevent excess injector SOLENOID
vibration.
Air leakage at the injector/intake area would SPACER GUIDE
create a lean cylinder and a possible driveability SOLENOID .ASSEMBLY
problem. A second seal is used to seal the fuel HOUSING
injector at the fuel rail connection. The injectors
are identified with an ID number cast on the
injector near the top side. Injectors manufactured CORE SPRING
by Rochester® Products have an RP positioned
near the top side in addition to the ID number. SPRAY HOUSING
The most widely used Injector for
the MPI units are Bosch Injectors,
but now there will also be a new
injector being used. This new
DIRECTOR PLATE
mm
FIG.58 Cross sectional view of a fuel injector
injector will be a Multec MPI
injector (a Rochester® product). It
is classified as a top feed design
because the fuel enters the top of
the Injector and then flows through
the entire length of the Injector. It is
designed to operate with the
system fuel pressures ranging from
36-51 psi (250-350 kPa), and uses
a high impedance (12.2 ohms)
solenoid coil.
Fuel Rail
The fuel rail is bolted rigidly to the engine and
it provides the upper mount for the fuel injectors.
It distributes fuel to the individual injectors. Fuel
is delivered to the input end of the fuel rail by the
fuel lines, goes through the rail, then to the fuel
pressure regulator. The regulator keeps the fuel
pressure to the injectors at a constant pressure.
The remaining fuel is then returned to the fuel
tank. The fuel rail also contains a spring loaded
pressure tap for testing the fuel system or
relieving the fuel system pressure.
Pressure Regulator
* SEE FIG. 60
The fuel pressure regulator contains a
pressure chamber separated by a diaphragm
relief valve assembly with a calibrated spring in
the vacuum chamber side. The fuel pressure is
regulated when the pump pressure acting on the
bottom spring of the diaphragm overcomes the
force of the spring action on the top side.
The diaphragm relief valve moves, opening or
closing an orifice in the fuel chamber to control
the amount of fuel returned to the fuel tank.
Vacuum acting on the top side of the diaphragm
 EMISSION CONTROLS 4-107
along with spring pressure controls the fuel
pressure. A decrease in vacuum creates an FUEL SENDER COVER
increase in the fuel pressure. An increase in 3
vacuum creates a decrease in fuel pressure.
An example of this is under heavy load FUEL SENDER
conditions the engine requires more fuel flow. WIRE HARNESS
The vacuum decreases under a heavy load PRESSURE
condition because of the throttle opening. A CONTROL
decrease in the vacuum allows more fuel VALVE
pressure to the top side-of the pressure relief
valve, thus increasing the fuel pressure.
The pressure regulator is mounted on the fuel BUMPER.
rail and serviced separately. If the pressure is too RESISTOR ASSEMBLYi
low, poor performance could result. If the FUEL PUMP
pressure is too high, excessive odor and a Code
FLOAT/ARM
45 may result. PUMP SUPPORT BRACKET

Idle Air Control (IAC) INSULATOR

t SEE FIG. 61
FUEL PUMP STRAINER
The purpose of the Idle Air Control (IAC)
system is to control engine idle speeds while
FIG.62 Fuel pump and sender assembly
preventing stalls due to changes in engine load.
The IAC assembly, mounted on the throttle body,
controls bypass air around the throttle plate. By has extended or retracted the pintle from the zero the return line. The constant flow of fuel means
extending or retracting a conical valve, a or reference position; thus, it always calculates that the fuel system is always supplied with cool
controlled amount of air can move around the the exact position of the motor. Once the engine fuel, thereby preventing the formation of fuel-
throttle plate. If rpm is too low, more air is has started and the vehicle has reached vapor bubbles (vapor lock).
diverted around the throttle plate to increase approximately 40 mph, the ECM will extend the
rpm. motor 255 steps from whatever position it is in. Fuel Pump Relay Circuit
During idle, the proper position of the IAC This will bottom out the pintle against the seat. The fuel pump relay is usually located on the
valve is calculated by the ECM based on battery The ECM will call this position 0 and thus keep left front inner fender (or shock tower) or on the
voltage, coolant temperature, engine load, and its zero reference updated. engine side of the firewall (center cowl). The fuel
engine rpm. If the rpm drops below a specified The IAC only affects the engine’s idle pump electrical system consists of the fuel
rate, the throttle plate is closed. The ECM will characteristics. If it is stuck fully open, idle pump relay, ignition circuit and the ECM circuits
then calculate a new valve position. speed is too high (too much air enters the throttle are protected by a fuse. The fuel pump relay
Three different designs are used for the IAC bore) If it is stuck closed, idle speed is too low contact switch is in the normally open (NO)
conical valve. The first design used is single (not enough air entering). If it is stuck position.
taper while the second design used is a dual somewhere in the middle, idle may be rough, When the ignition is turned ON the ECM will
taper. The third design is a blunt valve. Care and the engine won’t respond to load changes. for 2 seconds, supply voltage to the fuel pump
should be taken to insure use of the correct relay coil, closing the open contact switch. The
design when service replacement is required. Fuel Pump ignition circuit fuse can now supply ignition
The IAC motor has 255 different positions or The fuel is supplied to the system from an in¬ voltage to the circuit which feeds the relay
steps. The zero, or reference position, is the fully tank positive displacement roller vane pump. The contact switch. With the relay contacts closed,
extended position at which the pintle is seated in pump supplies fuel through the in-line fuel filter ignition voltage is supplied to the fuel pump. The
the air bypass seat and no air is allowed to to the fuel rail assembly. The pump is removed ECM will continue to supply voltage to the relay
bypass the throttle plate. When the motor is fully for service along with the fuel gauge sending coil circuit as long as the ECM receives the rpm
retracted, maximum air is allowed to bypass the unit. Once they are removed from the fuel tank, reference pulses from the ignition module.
throttle plate. When the motor is fully retracted, they pump and sending unit can be serviced The fuel pump control circuit also includes an
maximum air is allowed to bypass the throttle separately. engine oil pressure switch with a set of normally
piate. Fuel pressure is achieved by rotation of the open contacts. The switch closes at
The ECM always monitors how many steps it armature driving the roller vane components. approximately 4 lbs. of oil pressure and provides
The impeller at the inlet end serves as a vapor a secondary battery feed path to the fuel pump.
separator and a precharger for the roller vane If the relay fails, the pump will continue to run
assembly. The unit operates at approximately using the battery feed supplied by the closed oil
3500 rpm. pressure switch. A failed fuel pump relay will
The pressure relief valve in the fuel pump will result in extended engine crank times in order to
control the fuel pump maximum psi to 60-90 build up enough oil pressure to close the switch
psi. The fuel pump delivers more fuel than the and turn on the fuel pump.
O-RING engine can consume even under the most
FIG.61 Idle air control valve extreme conditions. Excess fuel flows through
the pressure regulator and back to the tank via
4-108 EMISSION CONTROLS
ln*Line Fuel Filter When the term Electronic Control Oxygen Sensor
The fuel filter is a 10-20 micron and is Module (ECM) Is used in this + SEE RG. 64
serviced only as a complete unit. The 0-rings are manual It will refer to the engine The exhaust oxygen sensor is mounted in the
used at ail threaded connections to prevent fuel control computer regardless that It exhaust system where it can monitor the oxygen
leakage. The threaded flex hoses connect the may be a Powertrain Control content of the exhaust gas stream. The oxygen
filter to the fuel tank feed line. Module (PCM) or Electronic Control content in the exhaust reacts with the oxygen
Module (ECM). sensor to produce a voltage output This voltage
ranges from approximately 100 millivolts (high
Electronic Spark Control (ESC)
DATA SENSORS oxygen - lean mixture) to 900 millivolts (low
When engines are equipped with ESC in oxygen - rich mixture).
conjunction with EST, ESC is used to reduce By monitoring the voltage output of the
A variety of sensors provide information to the spark advance under conditions of detonation. A oxygen sensor, the ECM will determine what fuel
ECM regarding engine operating characteristics. knock sensor signals a separate ESC controller mixture command to give to the injector (lean
These sensors and their functions are described to retard thp timing when it senses knock. The mixture - low voltage - rich command, rich
below. Be surerto take note that not every sensor ESC controller signals the ECM which reduces mixture - high voltage - lean command).
described is used with every GM engine spark advance until no more signals are received Remember that oxygen sensor indicates to
application. from the knock sensor. the ECM what is happening in the exhaust. It
Engine Coolant Temperature does not cause things to happen. It is a type of
Electronic Spark Timing (EST) gauge: high oxygen content = lean mixture; low
Electronic spark timing (EST) is used on all The coolant sensor is a thermister (a resistor oxygen content = rich mixture. The ECM adjust
engines equipped with HEI distributors and direct which changes value based on temperature) fuel to keep the system working.
ignition systems. The EST distributor contains no mounted on the engine coolant stream. As the The oxygen sensor, if open should set a Code
vacuum or centrifugal advance and uses a 7- temperature of the engine coolant changes, the 13. a constant low voltage in the sensor circuit
terminal distributor module. It also has 4 wires resistance of the coolant sensor changes. Low should set a Code 44 while a constant high
going to a 4-terminal connector in addition to the coolant temperature produces a high resistance voltage in the circuit should set a Code 45.
connectors normally found on HEI distributors. A (100,000 ohms at —40°C/—40°F), while high Codes 44 and 45 could also be set as a result of
reference pulse, indicating both engine rpm and temperature causes low resistance (70 ohms at fuel system problems.
crankshaft position, is sent to the ECM. The ECM 130°C/266°F).
determines the proper spark advance for the The ECM supplies a 5 volt signal to the
coolant sensor and measures the voltage that
Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP)
engine operating conditions and sends an EST
returns. By measuring the voltage change, the Sensor
pulse to the distributor.
The EST system is designed to optimize spark ECM determines the engine coolant temperature. The Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP)
timing for better control of exhaust emissions The voltage will be high when the engine is cold sensor measures the changes in the intake
and for fuel economy improvements. The ECM and low when the engine is hot This information manifold pressure which result from engine load
monitors information from various engine is used to control fuel management, IAC, spark and speed changes. The pressure measured by
sensors, computes the desired spark timing and timing, EGR, canister purge and other engine the MAP sensor is the difference between
changes the timing accordingly. A backup spark operating conditions. barometric pressure (outside air) and manifold
advance system is incorporated in the module in A failure in the coolant sensor circuit should pressure (vacuum). A closed throttle engine
case of EST failure. either set a Code 14 or 15. These codes indicate coastdown would produce a relatively low MAP
The basic function of the fuel control system a failure in the coolant temperature sensor value (approximately 20-35 kPa), while wide-
is to control the fuel delivery to the engine. The circuit. Once the trouble code is set, the ECM will open throttle would produce a high value (100
fuel is delivered to the engine by individual fuel use a default valve for engine coolant kPa). This high value is produced when the
injectors mounted on the intake manifold near temperature. pressure inside the manifold is the same as
each cylinder. outside the manifold, and 100% of outside air (or
Intake Air Temperature Sensor 100 kPa) is being measured. This MAP output is
The main control sensor is the oxygen sensor (IAT) the opposite of what you would measure on a
which is located In the exhaust manifold. The
oxygen sensor tells the ECM how much oxygen The Intake Air Temperature Sensor (IAT) is the vacuum gauge. The use of this sensor also
same as the Manifold Air temperature Sensor allows the ECM to adjust automatically for
is in the exhaust gas and the ECM changes the
(MAT). General Motors on a few applications just different altitude.
air/fuel ratio to the engine by controlling the fuel
change the name. The ECM sends a 5 volt reference signal to the
injectors. The best mixture (ratio) to minimize
exhaust emissions is 14.7:1 which allows the
catalytic converter to operate the most
efficiently. Because of the constant measuring
and adjusting of the air/fuel ratio, the fuel
injection system is called a CLOSED LOOP
system.

FIG.63 Coolant temperature sensor and connector

 EMISSION CONTROLS 4-109
speed. The ECM uses this information to operate
the IAC, canister purge, and TCC.
Some vehicles equipped with digital
instrument clusters use a Permanent Magnet
(PM) generator to provide the VSS signal. The
PM generator is located in the transmission and
replaces the speedometer cable. The signal from
the PM generator drives a stepper motor which
drives the odometer. A failure in the VSS circuit
should set a Code 24.
Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)
The Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) is
connected to the throttle shaft and is controlled
by the throttle mechanism. A 5 volt reference
signal is sent to the TPS from the ECM. As the
throttle valve angle is changed (accelerator pedal
moved), the resistance of the TPS also changes.
At a closed throttle position, the resistance of the
TPS is high, so the output voltage to the ECM will
be low (approximately 0.5 volt). As the throttle
plate opens, the resistance decreases so that, at
wide open throttle, the output voltage should be
approximately 5 volts. At closed throttle position,
the voltage at the TPS should be less than 1.25
volts.
By monitoring the output voltage from the
TPS, the ECM can determine fuel delivery based
on throttle valve angle (driver demand). The TPS
can either be misadjusted, shorted, open or
loose. Misadjustment might result in poor idle or
poor wide-open throttle performance. An open
MAP sensor. As the MAP changes, the electrical code is set, the ECM will use an artificial default TPS signals the ECM that the throttle is always
resistance of the sensor also changes. By value for the MAT and some vehicle closed, resulting in poor performance. This
monitoring the sensor output voltage the ECM performance will return. usually sets a Code 22. A shorted TPS gives the
can determine the manifold pressure. A higher ECM a constant wide-open throttle signal and
Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor
pressure, lower vacuum (high voltage) requires should set a Code 21. A loose TPS indicates to
more fuel, while a lower pressure, higher The Mass Air Row (MAF) sensor measures the ECM that the throttle is moving. This causes
vacuum (low voltage) requires less fuel. The the amount of air which passes through it The intermittent bursts of fuel from the injector and
ECM uses the MAP sensor to control fuel ECM uses this information to determine the an unstable idle. Once the trouble code is set, the
delivery and ignition timing. A failure in the MAP operating condition of the engine, to control fuel ECM will use an artificial default value for the TBI
sensor circuit should set a Code 33 or Code 34. delivery. A large quantity of air indicates and some vehicle performance will return.
acceleration, while a small quantity Indicates
Manifold Air Temperature Sensor deceleration or idle. Crankshaft Sensor
The Manifold Air Temperature (MAT) sensor This sensor produces a frequency output Some systems use a magnetic crankshaft
is a thermistor mounted in the intake manifold. A between 32 and 150 hertz. A scan tool will sensor, mounted remotely from the ignition
thermistor is a resistor which changes display air flow in terms of grams of air per module, which protrudes into the block within
resistance based on temperature. Low manifold second (gm/sec), with a range from 3gm/sec to approximately 0.050 in. (0.127mm) of the
air temperature produces a high resistance 150 gnrVsec. crankshaft reluctor. The reluctor is a special
(100,000 ohms at -40°F/-40°C), while high wheel cast into the crankshaft with 7 slots
Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS)
temperature cause low resistance (70 ohms at machined into it, 6 of which are equally spaced
266°F/130°C). A vehicle equipped with a speed (60 degrees apart). A seventh slot is spaced
The ECM supplies a 5 volt signal to the MAT sensor, should not be driven approximately 10 degrees from one of the other
sensor through a resistor in the ECM and without a the speed sensor slots and severs to generate a SYNC PULSE
monitors the voltage. The voltage will be high connected, as Idle quality may be signal. As the reluctor rotates as part of the
when the manifold air is cold and low when the affected. crankshaft, the slots change the magnetic field of
air is hot. By monitoring the voltage, the ECM the sensor, creating an induced voltage pulse.
The vehicle speed sensor (VSS) is mounted
calculates the air temperature and uses this data Based on the crank sensor pulses, the ignition
behind the speedometer in the instrument cluster
to help determine the fuel delivery and spark module sends 2X reference signals to the ECM
or on the transmission/speedometer drive gear.
advance. A failure in the MAT circuit should set which are used to indicate crankshaft position
It provides electrical pulses to the ECM from the
either a Code 23 or Code 25. Once the trouble and engine speed. The ignition module continues
speedometer head. The pulses indicate the road
4-110 EMISSION CONTROLS
interrupter ring, can result in a hesitation, sag
THROTTLE BODY stumble or dieseling condition.
To determine if the dual crank sensor could be
TPS SENSOR at fault, scan the engine rpm with a suitable scan
tool, while driving the vehicle. An erratic display
indicates that a proper reference pulse has not
been received by the ECM, which may be the
result of a malfunctioning dual crank sensor.
Air Conditioning Pressure Sensor
The air conditioning (A/C) pressure sensor
provides a signal to the electronic control
FIG.65 Throttle position sensor - non-adjustable type shown module (ECM) which indicates varying high side
refrigerant pressure between approximately 0-
450 psi. The ECM used this input to the A/C
compressor load on the engine to help control
to send these reference pulses to the ECM at a which is also a square wave signal similar to the the idle speed with the IAC valve.
rate of 1 per each 180 degrees of the crankshaft crank signal. The reference signal is used to The A/C pressure sensor electrical circuit
rotation. This signal is called the 2X reference calculate the engine rpm and crankshaft position consists of a 5 volt reference line and a ground
because it occurs 2 times per crankshaft by the ECM. The SYNC PULSE is used by line, both provided by the ECM and a signal line
revolution. the C3I module to begin the ignition coil firing to the ECM. The signal is a voltage that varies
The ignition also sends a second, IX sequence starting with No. 3-6 coil. The firing approximately 0.1 volt at 0 psi, to 4.9 volts at
reference signal to the ECM which occurs at the sequence begins with this coil because either 450 psi or more. A problem in the A/C pressure
same time as the SYNC PULSE from the piston No. 3 or piston No. 6 is now at the correct circuits or sensor should set a Code 66 and will
crankshaft sensor. This signal is called the IX position in compression stroke for the spark make the A/C compressor inoperative.
reference because it occurs 1 time per plugs to be fired. Both the crank sensor and the
SYNC PULSE signals must be received by
NoivAir Conditioning Program Input
crankshaft revolution. The IX reference and the
2X reference signals are necessary for the ECM the ignition module for the engine to start. A Vehicles not equipped with air conditioning (A/
to determine when to activate the fuel injectors. misadjusted sensor or bent interrupter ring could C) have a circuit connecting the ECM terminal
By comparing the time between pulses, the cause rubbing of the sensor resulting in potential BC3 to ground, to program to operate without
ignition module can recognize the pulse driveability problems, such as rough idle, poor A/C related components connected to it.
representing the seventh slot (sync pulse) which performance, or a nor start condition. Vehicles with A/C do not have a wire in ECM
starts the calculation of the ignition coil BC3 terminal. If this circuit is open on a non-A/
Failure to have the correct
sequencing. The second crank pulse following C vehicle it may cause false Codes 26 and/or
clearance will damage the
the SYNC PULSE signals the ignition Code 66. If terminal BC3 is grounded on A/C
crankshaft sensor.
module to fire the No. 2-3 ignition coil and the equipped vehicles, it will cause the compressor
fifth crank pulse signals the module to fire the The dual crank sensor is not adjustable for relay to be on whenever the ignition is in the ON
No. 1-4 ignition coil. ignition timing but positioning of the interrupter position.
ring is very important. A clearance of 0.025 in.
Dual Crank Sensor/Combination (0.635mm) is required on either side of the Detonation (Knock) Sensor
Sensor interrupter ring. A dual crank sensor that is This sensor is a piezoelectric sensor located
The dual crank sensor is mounted in a damaged, due to mis0ositioning or a bent near the back of the engine (transmission end).
pedestal on the front of the engine near the
harmonic balancer. The sensor consists of 2 Hall
Effect switches, which depend on 2 metal
interrupter rings mounted on the balancer to
activate them. Windows in the interrupters
activate the hall effect switches as they provide
a patch for the magnetic field between the
switches transducers and magnets. When one of
the hall effect switches is activated, it grounds
the signal line to the C3I module, pulling that
signal line’s (Sync Pulse or Crank) applied
voltage low, which is interpreted as a signal.
Because of the way the signal is created by
the dual crank sensor, the signal circuit is always
either at a high or low voltage (square wave
signal). crank signal pulses and one
SYNC PULSE are created during each
crankshaft revolution. The crank signal is used
FIG.66 View of a dual crankshaft sensor and the positioning tool
by the C3I module to create a reference signal
 EMISSION CONTROLS 4-111
It generates electrical impulses which are the load can cause an idle problem. The ECM will EGR vacuum port in the throttle body valve.
directly proportional to the frequency of the also turn the A/C clutch off when high power Under conditions when exhaust pressure is
knock which is detected. A buffer then sorts steering pressure is detected. lower than the control pressure, the EGR signal
these signals and eliminates all except for those is reduced by an air bleed within the transducer.
frequency range of detonation. This information Oil Pressure Switch Under conditions when exhaust pressure is
is passed to the ESC module and then to the The oil pressure switch is usually mounted on higher than the control pressure, the air bleed is
ECM, so that the ignition timing advance can be the back of the engine, just below the Intake closed and the EGR valve responds to an
retarded until the detonation stops. manifold. Some vehicles use the oil pressure unmodified vacuum signal. Physical
switch as a parallel power supply, with the fuel arrangement of the valve components will vary
Park/Neutral Switch pump relay and will provide voltage to the fuel depending on whether the control pressure is
Vehicle should not be driven with pump, after approximately 4 psi (28 kPa) of oil positive or negative.
the park/neutral switch pressure is reached. This switch will also help
prevent engine seizure by shutting off the power Positive Crankcase Ventilation
disconnected as Idle quality may be
affected In park or neutral and a to the fuel pump and causing the engine to stop (PCV) System
Code 24 (VSS) may be set. when the oil pressure is lower than 4 psi. A closed Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV)
system is used to provide more complete
This switch indicates to the ECM when the
scavenging of crankcase vapors. Fresh air from
transmission is in P or N. the information is
the air cleaner is supplied to the crankcase,
used by the ECM for control on the torque EMISSION CONTROL
mixed with blow-by gases and then passed
converter clutch, EGR, and the idle air control SYSTEMS through a PCV valve into the induction system.
valve operation.
The primary mode of crankcase ventilation
Air Conditioning Request Signal Various components are used to control control is through the PCV valve which meters
This signal indicates to the ECM that an air exhaust emissions from a vehicle. These the mixture of fresh air and blow-by gases into
conditioning mode is selected at the switch and components are controlled by the ECM based on the induction system at a rate dependent upon
that the A/C low pressure switch is closed. The different engine operating conditions. These manifold vacuum.
ECM controls the A/C and adjusts the idle speed components are described in the following To maintain the idle quality, the PCV valve
in response to this signal. paragraphs. Not all components are used on all restricts the ventilation system flow whenever
engines. intake manifold vacuum is designed to allow
Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid excessive amounts of blow-by gases to
The purpose of the torque converter clutch Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) backflow through the breather assembly into the
system is designed to eliminate power loss by System air cleaner and through the throttle body to be
the converter (slippage) to increase fuel EGR is a oxides of nitrogen (NOx) control consumed by normal combustion.
economy. By locking the converter clutch, a which recycles exhaust gases through the Evaporative Emission Control (EEC)
more effective coupling to the flywheel is combustion cycle by admitting exhaust gases
Systems
achieved. The converter clutch is operated by the into the intake manifold. The amount of exhaust
ECM controlled torque converter clutch solenoid. gas admitted is adjusted by a vacuum controlled The basic evaporative emission control
valve in response to engine operating conditions. system used on all vehicles uses the carbon
Power Steering Pressure Switch If the valve is open, the recirculated exhaust gas canister storage method. This method transfers
The power steering pressure switch is used is released into the intake manifold to be drawn fuel vapor to an activated carbon storage device
so that the power steering oil pressure pump into the combustion chamber. for retention when the vehicle is not operating. A
load will not effect the engine idle. Turning the The integral exhaust pressure modulated EGR ported vacuum signal is used for purging vapors
steering wheel increase the power steering oil valve uses a transducer responsive to exhaust stored in the canister.
pressure and pump load on the engine. The pressure to modulate the vacuum signal to the CONTROLLED CANISTER PURGE
power steering pressure switch will close before EGR valve. The vacuum signal is provided by an The ECM controls a solenoid valve which
controls vacuum to the purge valve in the
charcoal canister. In open loop, before a
CHECK BALL specified time has expired and below a specified
SEAT rpm, the solenoid valve is energized and blocks
vacuum to the purge valve. When the system is
in closed loop, after a specified time and above
a specified rpm, the solenoid valve is de¬
energized and vacuum can be applied to the
purge valve. This releases the collected vapors
into the intake manifold. On systems not using
CHECK BALL an ECM controlled solenoid, a Thermo Vacuum
Valve (TW) is used to control purge. See the
TCC SOLENOID appropriate vehicle sections for checking
procedures.

FIG.67 Servicing a torque converter clutch solenoid

4-112 EMISSION CONTROLS
Air Management Control • Keep all open flame and smoking material To prevent possible electrostatic
| SEE FIGS. 19, 20 and 50 out of the area. discharge damage to the ECM, do
• Use a shop cloth or similar to catch fuel not touch the connector pins or
The air management system aids in the
when opening a fuel system. soldered components on the circuit
reduction of exhaust emissions by supplying air
• Relieve fuel system pressure before board. When handling a PROM,
to either the catalytic converter, engine exhaust
servicing. Mem-Cal or Cal-Pak, do not touch
manifold, or to the air cleaner. The ECM controls
the air management system by energizing or de¬ • Use eye protection. the component leads and remove
energizing an air switching valve. Operation of • Always keep a dry chemical (class B) fire the integrated circuit from the
the air switching valve Is dependent upon such extinguisher near the area. carrier.
engine operating characteristics as coolant ^ Due to the amount of fuel
temperature, engine load, and acceleration (or pressure in the fuel lines, before
deceleration), all of which are sensed by the doing any work to the fuel system,
ECM LEARNING ABILITY
ECM. the fuel system should be de¬
PULSAIR REACTOR SYSTEM pressurized. The ECM has a learning capability. If the
The Pulsair Injection Reactor (PAIR) system battery is disconnected the learning process has
Electrostatic Discharge Damage
utilizes exhaust pressure pulsations to draw air to begin all over again. A change may be noted
into the exhaust system. Fresh air from the clean Electronic components used in the control in the vehicle’s performance. To teach the ECM,
side of the air cleaner supplies filtered air to system are often design to carry very low insure the vehicle is at operating temperature and
avoid dirt build-up on the check valve seat. The voltage and are very susceptible to damage drive at part throttle, with moderate acceleration
air cleaner also serves as a muffler for noise caused by electrostatic discharge. It is possible and idle conditions, until performance returns.
reduction. The internal mechanism of the Pulsair for less than 100 volts of static electricity to
valve reacts to 3 distinct conditions. cause damage to some electronic components.
By comparison it takes as much as 4000 volts
The firing of the engine creates a pulsating ALDL/CHECK CONNECTOR
flow of exhaust gases which are of positive (+) for a person to even feel the zap of a static
discharge.
or negative (-) pressure. This pressure or
vacuum is transmitted through external tubes to There are several ways for a person to The Assembly Line Diagnostic Link (ALDL), is
the Pulsair valve. become statically charged. The most common a diagnostic connector located in the passenger
methods of charging are by friction and compartment, usually under the instrument
1. If the pressure is positive, the disc is
induction. An example of charging by friction is panel.
forced to the closed position and no exhaust gas
a person sliding across a car seat, in which a The assembly plant were the vehicles
is allowed to flow past the valve and into the air
charge as much as 25000 volts can build up. originate use these connectors to check the
supply line.
Charging by induction occurs when a person engine for proper operation before it leaves the
2. If there is a negative pressure (vacuum) in
with well insulated shoes stands near a highly plant. Vehicles with the ALDL system, enter the
the exhaust system at the valve, the disc will
charged object and momentarily touches Diagnostic mode or the Field Service Mode by
open, allowing fresh air to mix with the exhaust
ground. Charges of the same polarity are drained connecting or jumping terminal B, the diagnostic
gases.
off, leaving the person highly charged with the TEST terminal to terminal A, or ground circuit.
3. Due to the inertia of the system, the disc opposite polarity. Static charges of either type
ceases to follow the pressure pulsations at high Vehicles with the check connector, connect or
can cause damage, therefore, it is important to jump terminal TE1, the diagnostic TEST terminal
engine rpm. At this point, the disc remains use care when handling and testing electronic
closed, preventing any further fresh airflow. to terminal El, or ground circuit. This connector
components. is a very useful tool in diagnosing EF1 engines.
Catalytic Converter Important information from the ECM is available
Of all emission control devices available, the at this terminal and can be read with one of the
catalytic converter is the most effective in many popular scanner tools.
reducing tailpipe emissions. The major tailpipe
pollutants are hydrocarbons (HC), carbon
monoxide (CO), and oxides of nitrogen (NOx).

SERVICE PRECAUTIONS
H E D C

TERMINAL IDENTIFICATION
B A
M
3
GROUND 0 SERIAL DATA
When working around any part of the fuel
(SEE SPECIAL TOOLS)
system, take precautionary steps to prevent fire DIAGNOSTIC TERMINAL
and/or explosion: □ T.C.C. (IF USED)
A.I.R. (IF USED)
• Disconnect negative terminal from battery
s FUEL PUMP (IF USED)
(except when testing with battery voltage is SERVICE ENGINE
SOON LAMP-IF USED
required). I M I SERIAL DATA (IF USED)
• When ever possible, use a flashlight - (SEE SPECIAL TOOLS)
instead of a drop light. FIG.68 Diagnostic ALDL connector identification
 EMISSION CONTROLS 4-113
READING CODES AND open loop and indicates the rich/lean status of To use an ALDL display tool you should
the engine. The ECM runs the engine at a fixed understand thoroughly how an engine control
DIAGNOSTIC MODES
ignition timing advanced above the base setting. system operates.
The SERVICE ENGINE SOON light will show An ALDL scanner or monitor puts a fuel
This information is able to be read by putting whether the system is in Open loop or Closed injection system into a special test mode. This
the ECM into 1 of 4 different modes. These loop. In Open loop the SERVICE ENGINE SOON mode commands an idle speed of 1000 rpm.
modes are entered by inserting a specific light flashes 2 times and one half times per The idle quality cannot be evaluated with a tester
amount of resistance between the ALDL second. In Closed loop the light flashes once per plugged in. Also the test mode commands a
connector terminals A and B. The modes and second. Also in closed loop, the light will stay fixed spark with no advance. On vehicles with
resistances needed to enter these modes are as OUT most of the time if the system is too lean. It Electronic Spark Control (ESC), th?re will be a
follows: will stay ON most of the time if the system is too fixed spark, but it will be advanced. On vehicles
rich. In either case the Reid Service mode check, with ESC, there might be a serious spark knock,
DIAGNOSTIC MODES - 0 OHMS which is part of the Diagnostic circuit check, will this spark knock could be bad enough so as not
When 0 resistance is between terminals A and lead you into choosing the correct diagnostic being able to road test the vehicle in the ALDL
B of the ALDL connector, the diagnostic mode is chart to refer to. test mode. Be sure to check the tool
entered. There are 2 positions to this mode. One
manufacturer for instructions on special test
with the engine OFF, but the ignition ON; the BACK-UP MODE - 3.9 KILO-OHMS
modes which should overcome these
other is when the engine is running called Reid The backup mode is entered by applying 3.9
limitations.
Service Mode. kilo-ohms resistance between terminals A and B
When a tester is used with a fuel injected
If the diagnostic mode is entered with the of the ALDL connector with the ignition switch in
engine, it bypasses the timer that keeps the
engine in the OFF position, trouble codes will the ON position. The ALDL scanner tool can
system in Open loop for a certain period of time.
flash and the idle air control motor will pulsate in now read 5 of the 20 parameters on the data
When all Closed loop conditions are met, the
and out. Also, the relays and solenoids are' stream. These parameters are as mode status,
engine will go into Closed loop as soon as the
energized with the exception of the fuel pump oxygen sensor voltage, rpm, block learn and idle
vehicle is started. This means that the air
and injector. air control. There are 2 ways to enter the backup
management system will not function properly
As a bulb and system check, the SERVICE mode. Using a scan tool is one way; putting a
and air may go directly to the converter as soon
ENGINE SOON light will come on with the ignition 3.9 kilo-ohms resistor across terminals A and B
as the engine is started.
switch ON and the engine not running. When of the ALDL is another.
These tools cannot diagnose everything. They
the engine is started, the SERVICE ENGINE SPECIAL MODE - 10 KILO-OHMS do not tell where a problem is located in a circuit.
SOON light will turn off. If the SERVICE ENGINE This special mode is entered by applying a The diagnostic charts to pinpoint the problems
SOON light remains on, the self-diagnostic 10K ohms resistor across terminals A and B. must still be used. These tester’s do not let a you
system has detected a problem. When this happens the ECM does the following: know if a solenoid or relay has been turned on.
If the B terminal is then grounded with the 1. Allows all of the serial data to be read. They only tell the you the ECM command. To find
ignition ON, engine not running, each trouble 2. Bypasses all timers. out if a solenoid has been turned on, check it
code will flash and repeat 3 times. If more than with a suitable test light or digital voltmeter, or
3. Add a calibrated spark advance.
1 problem has been detected, each trouble code see if vacuum through the solenoid changes.
4. Enables the canister purge solenoid on
will flash 3 times. Trouble codes will flash in
some engines. SCAN TOOLS FOR INTERMITTENTS
numeric order (lowest number first). The trouble
5. Idles at 1000 rpm fixed idle air control and In some scan tool applications, the data
code series will repeat as long as the B terminal
fixed base pulse width on the injector. update rate may make the tool less effective than
is grounded.
6. Forces the idle air control to reset at part a voltmeter, such as when trying to detect an
A trouble code indicates a problem in a given
throttle (approximately 2000 rpm). intermittent problem which lasts for a very short
circuit (Code 14, for example, indicates a
7. Disables the park/neutral restrict functions time. Some scan tools have a snapshot function
problem in the coolant sensor circuit; this
includes the coolant sensor, connector harness, OPEN OR ROAD TEST MODE - 20 KILO- which stores several seconds or even minutes of
and ECM). The procedure for pinpointing the operation to located an intermittent problem.
OHMS
problem can be found in diagnosis. Similar Scan tools allow one to manipulate the wiring
The system is in this mode during normal
charts are provided for each code. harness or components under the hood with the
operation and is used by a scan tool to extract
Also in this mode all ECM controlled relays engine not running while observing the scan
data while driving the vehicle.
and solenoids except the fuel pump relay. This tool’s readout.
allows checking the circuits which may be ALDL SCAN TESTER INFORMATION The scan tool can be plugged in and observed
difficult to energize without driving the vehicle An ALDL display unit (ALDL tester, scanner, while driving the vehicle under the condition
and being under particular operating conditions. monitor, etc), allows a you to read the engine when the SERVICE ENGINE SOON light turns on
The IAC valve will move to its fully extended control system information from the ALDL momentarily or when the engine driveability is
position on most vehicles, block the idle air connector under the instrument panel. It can momentarily poor. If the problem seems to be
passage. This is useful in checking the minimum provide information faster than a digital related to certain parameters that can be
idle speed. voltmeter or ohmmeter can. The scan tool does checked on the scan tool, they should be
not diagnose the exact location of the problem. checked while driving the vehicle. If there does
FIELD SERVICE MODE - 0 OHMS The tool supplies information about the ECM, the not seem to be any correlation between the
When the ALDL connector terminal B is information that it is receiving and the problem and any specific circuit, the scan tool
grounded with the engine running, the ECM goes commands that it is sending plus special can be checked on each position. Watching for
into the field service mode. In this mode, the information such as integrator and block learn. a period of time to see if there is any change in
SERVICE ENGINE SOON light flashes closed or
4-114 EMISSION CONTROLS
the reading that indicates intermittent operation. INTEGRATOR INTEGRA TOR/BLOCK LEARN LIMITS
The scan tool is also an easy way to compare Integrator is the term applied to a means of Both the integrator and block learn have limits
the operating parameters of a poorly operating temporary change in fuel delivery. Integrator is which will vary from engine to engine. If the
engine with typical scan data for the vehicle displayed through the ALDL data line and mixture is off enough so that the block learn
being serviced or those of a known good engine. monitored with a scanner as a number between reaches the limit of its control and still cannot
For example, a sensor may shift in value but not 0 and 255 with an average of 128. The integrator correct the condition, the integrator would also
set a trouble code. Comparing the sensor’s monitors the oxygen sensor output voltage and go to its limit of control in the same direction and
reading with those of a known good parameters adds and subtracts fuel depending on the lean or the engine would then begin to run poorly. If the
may uncover the problem. rich condition of the oxygen sensor. When the integrators and block learn are close to or at their
The scan tool has the ability to save time in integrator is displaying 128, it indicates a neutral limits of control, the engine hardware should be
diagnosis and prevent the replacement of good condition. This means that the oxygen sensor is checked to determine the cause of the limits
parts. The key to using the scan tool seeing results of the 14.7:1 air/fuel mixture being reached, vacuum leaks, sticking injectors,
successfully for diagnosis lies in the ability to burned in the cylinders. etc.
understand the system he is trying to diagnose +■ An air leak in the system (a lean If the integrator is lied to, for example, if the
as well as an understanding of the scan tool’s condition) would cause the oxygen oxygen sensor lead was grounded (lean signal)
operation and limitations. sensor voltage to decrease while the integrator and block learn would add fuel to
the Integrator would Increase (add the engine to cause it to run rich. However, with
more fuel) to temporarily correct the oxygen sensor lead grounded, the ECM
CLEARING TROUBLE for the lean condition. If this would continue seeing a lean condition
happened the Injector pulse width eventually setting a Code 44 and the fuel control
CODES system would change to open loop operations.
would Increase.

When the ECM detects a problem with the BLOCK LEARN

system, the SERVICE ENGINE SOON light will Although the integrator can correct fuel CLOSED LOOP FUEL
come on and a trouble code will be recorded in delivery over a wide range, it is only for a
temporary correction. Therefore, another control
CONTROL
the ECM memory. If the problem is intermittent,
the SERVICE ENGINE SOON light will go out after called block learn was added. Although it cannot
10 seconds, when the fault goes away. However make as many corrections as the integrator, it The purpose of closed loop fuel control is to
the trouble code will stay in the ECM memory does so for a longer period of time. It gets its precisely maintain an air/fuel mixture 14.7:1.
until the battery voltage to the ECM is removed. name from the fact that the operating range of When the air/fuel mixture is maintained at
Removing the battery voltage for 10 seconds will the engine for any given combinations of rpm 14.7:1, the catalytic converter is able to operate
clear all trouble codes. Do this by disconnecting and load is divided into 16 cell or blocks. at maximum efficiency which results in lower
the ECM harness from the positive battery The computer has a given fuel delivery stored emission levels. .
terminal pigtail for 10 seconds with the key in the in each block. As the operating range gets into a Since the ECM controls the air/fuel mixture, it
OFF position, or by removing the ECM fuse for given block the fuel delivery will be based on needs to check its output and correct the fuel
10 seconds with the key OFF. what value is stored in the memory in that block. mixture for deviations from the ideal ratio. The
Again, just like the integrator, the number oxygen sensor feeds this output information
^ To prevent ECM damage, the key
represents the on-time of the injector. Also, just back to the ECM.
must be OFF when disconnecting
like the integrator, the number 128 represents no
and reconnecting ECM power.
correction to the value that Is stored in the cell or
block. When the integrator increases or ENGINE PERFORMANCE
INTEGRATOR AND BLOCK decreases, block learn which is also watching
the integrator will make corrections in the same DIAGNOSIS
LEARN
direction. As the block learn makes corrections,
the integrator correction will be reduced until Engine performance diagnosis procedures are
The integrator and block learn functions of the finally the integrator will return to 128 if the block guides that will lead to the most probable causes
ECM are responsible for making minor learn has corrected the fuel delivery. of engine performance complaints. They
adjustments to the air/fuel ratio on the fuel consider the components of the fuel, ignition,
BLOCK LEARN MEMORY
injected GM vehicles. These small adjustments and mechanical systems that could cause a
Block learn operates on 1 of 2 types of
are necessary to compensate for pinpoint air particular complaint, and then outline repairs in a
memories depending on application, non-volatile
leaks and normal wear. logical sequence.
and volatile. The non-volatile memories retain the
The integrator and block learn are 2 separate It is important to determine if the SERVICE
value in the block learn cells even when the
ECM memory functions which control fuel ENGINE SOON light is on or has come on for a
ignition switch is turned OFF. When the engine
delivery. The integrator makes a temporary short interval while driving. If the SERVICE
is restarted, the fuel delivery for a given block
change and the block learn makes a more ENGINE SOON light has come on, the Computer
wiH be based on information stored in memory.
permanent change. Both of these functions apply Command Control System should be checked
The volatile memories lose the numbers
only while the engine is in CLOSED LOOP. They for stored TROUBLE CODES which may
stored in the block learn cells when the ignition
represent the on-time of the injector. Also, indicate the cause for the performance
is turned to the OFF position. Upon restarting,
integrator and block learn controls fuel delivery complaint.
the block learn starts at 128 In every block and
on the fuel injected engines as does the MC All of the symptoms can be caused by worn
corrects from that point as necessary.
solenoid dwell on the CCC carbureted engines. out or defective parts such as spark plugs,
 EMISSION CONTROLS 4-115
ignition wiring, etc. If time and/or mileage repeat itself until the engine is started or the UNDERVOLTAGE TO THE
indicate that parts should be replaced, it is ignition is turned off.
recommended that it be done. ECM
When the engine is started, the SERVICE
^ Before checking any system ENGINE SOON light will remain on for a few
controlled by the Electronic Fuel seconds, then turn off. If the SERVICE ENGINE An undervoltage condition below 9 volts will
Injection (EFI) system, the SOON light remains on, the self-diagnostic cause the SERVICE ENGINE SOON light to come
Diagnostic Circuit Check must be system has detected a problem. If the test on as long as the condition exist.
performed or misdiagnosis may terminal is then grounded, the trouble code will Therefore, an intermittent SERVICE ENGINE
occur. If the complaint Involves the flash 3 times. If more than 1 problem is found, SOON light, no code stored and a driveability
SERVICE ENGINE SOON light, go each trouble code will flash 3 times. Trouble comment described as similar to a miss will
directly to the Diagnostic Circuit codes will flash in numerical order (lowest code require checking the grounding circuit, Code 12
Check. number to highest). The trouble codes series will circuit and the ignition feed circuit to terminal C
repeat as long as the test terminal is grounded. of the ECM. This does nor eliminate the
Basic Troubleshooting
A trouble code indicates a problem with a necessity of checking the normal vehicle
The following explains how to given circuit. For example, trouble Code 14 electrical system for possible cause such as a
activate the trouble code signal indicates a problem in the cooling sensor circuit. loose battery cable.
light In the Instrument cluster and This includes the coolant sensor, its electrical
gives an explanation of what each harness, and the ECM. Since the self-diagnostic
code means. This is not a full system cannot diagnose every possible fault in OVERVOLTAGE TO THE ECM
system troubleshooting and the system, the absence of a trouble code does
isolation procedure. not mean the system is trouble-free. To
Before suspecting the system or any of its determine problems within the system which do The ECM will also shut off when the power
components as faulty, check the ignition system not activate a trouble code, a system supply rises above 16 volts. The overvoltage
including distributor, timing, spark plugs and performance check must be made. condition will also cause the SERVICE ENGINE
wires. Check the engine compression, air In the case of an intermittent fault in the SOON to come on as long as this condition exist.
cleaner, and emission control components not system, the SERVICE ENGINE SOON light will go A momentary voltage surge in a vehicle’s
controlled by the ECM. Also check the intake electrical system is a common occurrence.
out when the fault goes away, but the trouble
manifold, vacuum hoses and hose connectors These voltage surges have never presented any
code will remain in the memory of the ECM.
for leaks. problems because the entire electrical system
Therefore, it a trouble code can be obtained even
acted as a shock absorber until the surge
The following symptoms could indicate a though the SERVICE ENGINE SOON light is not
dissipated. Voltage surges or spikes in the
possible problem with the system: on, the trouble code must be evaluated. It must
vehicle’s electrical system have been known, on
1. Detonation be determined if the fault is intermittent or if the occasion, to exceed 100 volts.
2. Stalls or rough idle-cold engine must be at certain operating conditions
The system is a low voltage (between 9 and
3. Stalls or rough idle-hot (under load, etc.) before the SERVICE ENGINE
16 volts) system and will not tolerate these
4. Missing SOON light will come on. Some trouble codes surges. The ECM will be shut off by any surge in
5. Hesitation will not be recorded in the ECM until the engine excess of 16 volts and will come back on, only
6. Surges has been operated at part throttle for about 5-18 after the surge has dissipated sufficiently to bring
7. Poor gasoline mileage minutes. the voltage under 16 volts.
8. Sluggish or spongy performance A surge will usually occur when an accessory
9. Hard starting-cold requiring a high voltage supply is turned off or
10. Objectionable exhaust odors (that rotten INTERMITTENT SERVICE down. The voltage regulator in the vehicle’s
egg smell) ENGINE SOON LIGHT charging system cannot react to the changes in
11. Cuts out the voltage demands quickly enough and surge
12. Improper idle speed occurs. The driver should be questioned to
As a bulb and system check, the SERVICE An intermittent open in the ground circuit determine which accessory circuit was turned
ENGINE SOON light will come on when the would cause loss of power through the ECM and off that caused the SERVICE ENGINE SOON light
ignition switch is turned to the ON position but intermittent SERVICE ENGINE SOON light to come on.
the engine is not started. The SERVICE ENGINE operation. When the ECM loses ground, Therefore, intermittent SERVICE ENGINE
SOON light will also produce the trouble code or distributor ignition is lost. An intermittent open in SOON light operation, with no trouble code
codes by a series of flashes which translate as the ground circuit would be described as an stored, will require installation of a diode in the
follows. When the diagnostic test terminal under engine miss. appropriate accessory circuit.
the dash is grounded, with the ignition in the ON Therefore, an intermittent SERVICE ENGINE
position and the engine not running, the SERVICE SOON light, no code stored and a driveability
ENGINE SOON light will flash once, pause, then comment described as similar to a miss will TPS OUTPUT CHECK TEST
flash twice in rapid succession. This is a Code require checking the grounding circuit and the
12, which indicates that the diagnostic system is Code 12 circuit as it originates at the ignition
Due to the varied application of components,
working. After a long pause, the Code 12 will coil. a general procedure is outlined. For the exact
repeat itself 2 more times. The cycle will then
procedure for the vehicle being service use Code
21 or 22 chart the appropriate engine.
4-116 EMISSION CONTROLS
WITH SCAN TOOL 4. On turbocharged vehicles, use a low approximately 120 degrees apart.
1. Use a suitable scan tool to read the PS pressure air pump to apply air pressure to the 6. If found out of adjustment, the sensor
voltage. regulator to simulate turbocharger boost should'be removed and inspected for potential
2. With the ignition switch ON and the pressure. Boost pressure should increase fuel damage.
engine OFF, the TPS voltage should be less pressure 1 lb. for every lb. of boost. Again, look
than 1.25 volts. for changes rather than specific pressures. The
3. If the voltage reading is higher than maximum fuel pressure should not exceed 46 MPI SYSTEM DIAGNOSTIC
specified, replace the throttle position sensor. psi. CHARTS
5. If the fuel pressure drops, check the
WITHOUT SCAN TOOL
operation of the check valve, the pump coupling
1. Remove air cleaner. Disconnect the TPS To properly diagnosis driveability problems
connection, fuel pressure regulator valve and the
harness from the TPS. you need to use the following charts. Make
injectors. A restricted fuel line or filter may also
2. Using suitable jumper wires, connect a certain the charts cover the engine your car has.
cause a pressure drip. To check the fuel pump
digital voltmeter J—29125—A or equivalent to the If your check engine light is not lit, check for
output, restrict the fuel return line and run 12
correct TPS terminals A and B. engine stored engine codes. If any codes are
volts to the pump. The fuel pressure should rise
3. With the ignition ON and the engine stored write them down for reference later. Clear
to approximately 75 psi with the return line
running, The TPS voltage should be 0.3-1.0 the codes as described earlier. Road test the
restricted.
volts at base idle to approximately 4.5 volts at vehicle to see if any of the codes return. Never
wide open throttle. try to fix a code problem until you’re sure that it
4. If the reading on the TPS is out of ** CAUTION comes back. It may have been a old code from
specification, check the minimum idle speed years ago that was never cleared or a code that
before replacing the TPS. Before attempting to remove or
was set do to a rain storm, battery jump, etc.
5. If the voltage reading is correct, remove service any fuel system
After clearing any codes and checking that
the voltmeter and jumper wires and reconnect component, It is necessary to
they do not return. If the car drives fine your
the TPS connector to the sensor. relieve the fuel system pressure.
finished. But if there are no codes and the car
6. Reinstall the air cleaner. runs poorly you’ll need to check the symptoms
charts. The problem is most likely not the
CRANKSHAFT SENSOR computer or the devices it controls but the
FUEL SYSTEM PRESSURE ignition system or engine mechanical.
If you do have a code(s) that returns start with
Inspection the lowest code and follow the proper chart. You
Testing 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. must follow every step of the chart and not jump
When the ignition switch is turned ON, the 2. Rotate the harmonic balancer using a from test to test or you’ll never be certain to find
in-tank fuel pump is energized for as long as the 28mm socket and pull on the handle until the and fix the real problem.
engine is cranking or running and the control unit interrupter ring fills the sensor slots and edge of Start with the lowest to highest code chart,
is receiving signals from the HEI distributor or the interrupter window is aligned with the edge of making sure to use the charts for your engine. If
DIS. If there are no reference pulses, the control the deflector on the pedestal. you have a 50 series code, like code 54. Always
unit will shut off the fuel pump within 2 seconds. 3. Insert feeler gauge adjustment tool J- check those out first. They are rare but usually
The pump will deliver fuel to the fuel rail and 36179 or equivalent into the gap between the indicate a problem with the computer itself or its
injectors, then the pressure regulator where the sensor and the interrupter on each side of the ability to test itself properly.
system pressure is controlled to maintain 26-46 interrupter ring.
4. If the gauge will not slide past the sensor Component repair and
psi.
1. Connect pressure gauge J-34730—1, or on either side of the interrupter ring, the sensor replacement are covered In Section
equivalent, to fuel pressure test point on the fuel is out of adjustment or the interrupter ring is 5 Fuel System, this section will only
rail. Wrap a rag around the pressure tap to bent. deal with the testing of the system
absorb any leakage that may occur when 5. The clearance should be checked again, at for both driveablities and emission
installing the gauge. 3 positions around the intempter ring problems.
2. Turn the ignition ON and check that pump
pressure is 24-40 psi. This pressure is
controlled by spring pressure within the
regulator assembly.
3. Start the engine and allow it to idle. The
fuel pressure should drop to 28-32 psi due to
the lower manifold pressure.
The idle pressure will vary
somewhat depending on
barometric pressure. Check for a
drop In pressure Indicating
regulator control, rather than
specific values.
 EMISSION CONTROLS 4-117

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TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
Component U.S. Metric
AIR pump pulley bolts: 10 ft. lbs. 13 Nm
Charcoal canister retaining screws: 25 inch lbs. 2.8 Nm
Coolant sensors: 15 ft. lbs. 20 Nm
Digital EGR valve retaining bolts: 22 ft. lbs. 30 Nm
EGR valve retaining bolts: 16 ft. lbs. 22 Nm
Fuel Line Fittings: 22 ft. lbs. 30 Nm
Fuel rail attaching nuts: 20 ft. lbs. 27 Nm

Fuel Pressure Regulator:

2.5L engine: 22 inch lbs. 2.5 Nm
Except 2.5L engine: 102 inch lbs. 11.5 Nm
Idle air control valve:
Screw-in type: 13 ft. lbs. 18 Nm
Retaining screws: 27 inch lbs. 3 Nm
Spark plugs:
Except 2.8L carburated 20 ft. lbs. 27 Nm
2.8L carburated 15 ft. lbs. 17 Nm
Oxygen sensor (with anti-sieze): 30 ft. lbs. 41 Nm
Throttle position sensor bolts: 18 inch lbs. 2 Nm
CARBURETOR FUEL PUMP, MECHANICAL 5-2
Adjustments 5-22 FUEL SYSTEM
Overhaul 5-7 Carbureted 5-2
Removal and Installation 5-2 Diesel 5-41
DIESEL FUEL SYSTEM Fuel injection 5-
Fuel supply pump 5-41
FUELTANK 5-44
Glow plugs 5-43
Injection lines 5-42 IDLE AIR CONTROL VALVE
Injection pump 5-41 MPI 5-38
Injection timing 5-42 TBI 5-27
Injectors 5-41 IDLE SPEED ADJUSTMENT
ELECTRIC FUEL PUMP MPI 5-40
MPI 5-34 TBI 5-33
TBI 5-26
RELIEVING FUEL SYSTEM PRESSURE
ELECTRONIC FUEL INJECTION MPI 5-34
Multi-Port Fuel Injection (MPI) 5-34
TBI 5-26
Throttle Body Fuel Injection (TBI) 5-26
FUEL INJECTOR REPLACEMENT THROTTLE BODY SERVICE
MPI 5-37 MPI 5-35
TBI 5-27 TBI 5-26
FUEL PUMP, ELECTRIC
MPI 5-34
TBI 5-26
THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR
MPI 5-39
TBI 5-32 FUEL
Carbureted Fuel System 5-22
Diesel Fuel System 5-41
Multi-Port Fuel Injection 5-34
Throttle Body Fuel Injection 5-26
Relieving System Pressure
MPI 5-34
TBI 5-26
5-2 FUEL SYSTEM

CARBURETED FUEL SYSTEM

Mechanical Fuel Pump

Mechanical fuel pumps are used on 6-2.8L
engines. The pump has a vapor return line for
both emission control purposes and to reduce
the likelihood of vapor lock.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

All Models
The fuel pump is located at the left side of the
engine.
1. Disconnect the negative cable at the
battery. Raise and support the car.
2. Remove the pump shields and the oil filter,
if so equipped.
3. Disconnect the inlet hose from the pump. with the engine at idle. If the pump has a vapor
Disconnect the vapor return hose, if equipped. return hose, squeeze it off so that an accurate Carburetor
4. Loosen the fuel line at the carburetor, then reading can be obtained. Pressure should
measure 6.0—7.5 psi. The Rochester E2SE is used on all 1982 and
disconnect the outlet pipe from the pump. later A-body cars. It is a two barrel, two stage
5. Remove the two mounting bolts and 3. If the pressure is incorrect, replace the
pump. If it is okay, go on to the volume test. carburetor of downdraft design used in
remove the pump from the engine. conjunction with the Computer Command
6. To install, place a new gasket on the pump Volume Test Control system of fuel control. The carburetor
and install the pump on the engine. Tighten the has special design features for optimum air/fuel
1. Disconnect the pressure gauge. Run the
two mounting bolts alternately and evenly. mixture control during all ranges of engine
fuel line into a graduated container.
7. Install the pump outlet pipe. This is easier operation.
2. Run the engine at idle until one pint of
if the pipe is disconnected from the carburetor.
gasoline has been pumped. One pint should be
Tighten the fitting while backing up the pump nut
delivered in 30 seconds or less. There is
with another wrench. Install the pipe at the
normally enough fuel in the carburetor float bowl MODEL IDENTIFICATION
carburetor.
to perform this test, but refill it if necessary.
8. Install the inlet and vapor hoses, install the
3. If the delivery rate is below the minimum,
shields (if equipped) and oil filter. Lower the car,
check the lines for restrictions or leaks, then General Motors Rochester carburetors are
connect the negative battery cable, start the
replace the pump. identified by their model code. The first number
engine, and check for leaks.

VENT STACK
TESTING THE FUEL PUMP MIXTURE
CONTROL
CHOKE VALVE
SOLENOID
, AIR VALVE LEVER
To determine if the pump is in good condition, PRIMARY
tests for both volume and pressure should be VACUUM
performed. The tests are made with the pump BREAK

installed. Never replace a fuel pump without first

performing these simple tests.
Be sure that the fuel filter has been changed at
CHOKE
the specified interval. If in doubt, install a new HOUSING
filter first.
SECONDARY THROTTLE
Pressure Test VACUUM LEVER
BREAK IDLE
1. Disconnect the fuel line at the carburetor
SPEED'
and connect a fuel pump pressure gauge. Fill the CONTROL
carburetor float bowl with gasoline. FIG.2 Rochester E2SE carburetor
2. Start the engine and check the pressure
 FUEL SYSTEM 5-3
indicates the number of barrels, while one of the
last letters indicates the type of choke used. ASSEM.
These are V for the manifold mounted choke coil, PLANT CODE

C for the choke coil mounted in the carburetor YEAR

body, and E for electric choke, also mounted on DAY OF YEAR
the carburetor. Model codes ending in A indicate
an altitude compensation carburetor.

FLOAT ADJUSTMENT

FIG.3 The carburetor identification number is stamped on the float bowl

t SEE FIGS. 4 and 5
1. Remove the air horn from the throttle body.
2. Use your fingers to hold the retainer in
place, and to push the float down into light
contact with the needle.
o HOLD RETAINER
FIRMLY IN PLACE
3. Measure the distance from the toe of the
float (furthest from the hinge) to the top of the
carburetor (gasket removed).
4. To adjust, remove the float and gently bend
the arm to specification. After adjustment, check
the float alignment in the chamber. GAUGE AT LARGE TOE OF
FLOAT AT POINT FURTHEST
AWAY FROM FLOAT HINGE
PIN (SEE INSET)
PUMP ADJUSTMENT
REMOVE FLOAT AND
BEND FLOAT ARM UP
E2SE carburetors have a non-adjustable OR DOWN TO ADJUST
pump lever. No adjustments are either necessary
or possible. VISUALLY CHECK FLOAT
ALIGNMENT AFTER
LIGHTLY AGAINST NEEDLE ADJUSTING

FIG.4 Float adjustment - 1982-1984

1. REMOVE AIR HORN, AIR HORN GASKET AND

UPPER FLOAT BOWL INSERT. J-34817-20
OR
2. ATTACH J-34817-1 OR BT-8227A-1 TO FLOAT BOWL. BT-8045A
J-9789-90
3. PLACE J-34817-3 OR BT-8227A IN BASE, WITH OR J-34817-3
CONTACT PIN RESTING ON OUTER EDGE OR
OF FLOAT LEVER. BT-8227A

4. MEASURE DISTANCE FROM TOP OF CASTING TO TOP FLOAT STABILIZER

OF FLOAT, AT POINT FARTHEST FROM FLOAT SPRING
HINGE. USE J-9789-90 OR BT-8037.

5. IF MORE THAN ±1.59mm <2/32") FROM

SPECIFICATION. USE J-34817-20 OR BT-8045A
TO BEND LEVER UP OR DOWN REMOVE BENDING
TOOL AND MEASURE, REPEATING UNTIL
WITHIN SPECIFICATION.

8. VISUALLY CHECK FLOAT ALIGNMENT.

7. REASSEMBLE CARBURETOR. J-34817-1

OR
BT-8227A-1

FIG.5 Float adjustment - 1985 and later

5-4 FUEL SYSTEM
FAST IDLE ADJUSTMENT
(T) IF RIVETED. DRILL OUT ANO REMOVE
RIVETS REMOVE CHOKE COVER AND
STAT ASSEMBLY
(T) PLACE FAST IDLE SCREW ON HIGH
t SEE FIG. 6 STEP OF FAST IDLE CAM
(?) PUSH ON INTERMEDIATE CHOKE
1. Set the ignition timing and curb idle speed, LEVER UNTIL CHOKE VALVE IS
CLOSEO

and disconnect and plug hoses as directed on (4) INSERT MS

IN HOLE
(2.18mm) PLUG GAGE

the emission control decal. (5) EOGE OF LEVER SHOULD JUST

^ CONTACT SIDE OF GAGE

2. Place the fast idle screw on the highest (?) SUPPORT AT S AND BENO
INTERMEDIATE CHOKE LINK TO
ADJUST
step of the cam.
3. Start the engine and adjust the engine FIG.7 Choke stat lever adjustment
speed to specification with the fast idle screw.

5. If the lever does not just touch the gauge, 4. Rotate the scale so that the specified
CHOKE COIL LEVER bend the intermediate choke rod to adjust. degree is opposite the scale pointer.
ADJUSTMENT 5. Place the fast idle screw on the second
step of the cam (against the high step). Close the
FAST IDLE CAM (CHOKE choke by pushing in the intermediate lever.
* SEE FIG. 7
1. Remove the three retaining screws and ROD) ADJUSTMENT 6. Bend the fast idle cam rod at the U to
remove the choke cover and coil. On models adjust the angle to specifications.
with a riveted choke cover, drill out the three
* SEE FIG. 8
rivets and remove the cover and choke coil.
A special angle gauge should be AIR VALVE ROD
A choke stat cover retainer kit Is
required for reassembly. used. If It is not available, an inch ADJUSTMENT
(milimeter) measurement can be
2. Place the fast idle screw on the high step
made.
of the cam. 1. Seat the vacuum diaphragm with an
3. Close the choke by pushing in on the 1. Adjust the choke coil lever and fast idle outside vacuum source. Tape over the purge
intermediate choke lever. first. bleed hole if present.
4. Insert a drill or gauge of the specified size 2. Rotate the degree scale until it is zeroed. 2. Close the air valve.
into the hole in the choke housing. The choke 3. Close the choke and install the degree 3. Insert the specified gauge between the rod
lever in the housing should be up against the side s scale onto the choke plate. Center the leveling and the end of the slot in the plunger.
of the gauge. bubble. 4. Bend the rod to adjust the clearance.

©PREPARE VEHICLE
FOR ADJUSTMENTS -
SEE EMISSION LABLE

© TURN FAST IDLE SCREW

IN OR OUT TO OBTAIN
SPECIFIED FAST IDLE
R.P.M. - (SEE LABEL).
FIG.6 Fast idle adjustment
 FUEL SYSTEM 5-5
ATTACH RUBBER BAND TO INTER¬
MEDIATE CHOKE LEVER.
OPEN THROTTLE TO ALLOW CHOKE
VALVE TO CLOSE.

SET UP ANGLE GAGE AND SET ANGLE

TO SPECIFICATIONS.
PLACE FAST IDLE SCREW ON SECOND
STEP OF CAM AGAINST RISE OF HIGH
STEP.

PUSH ON CHOKE SHAFT LEVER TO

OPEN CHOKE VALVE AND TO MAKE
CONTACT WITH BLACK CLOSING
TANG.
SUPPORT AT “S” AND ADJUST BY
BENDING FAST IDLE CAM LINK UNTIL
BUBBLE IS CENTERED. FAST
IDLE CAM

FIG.8 Fast idle cam (choke rod) adjustment

PRIMARY SIDE VACUUM 3. Push in on the intermediate choke lever to SECONDARYVACUUM

close the choke valve, and hold closed during
BREAK ADJUSTMENT adjustment.
BREAK ADJUSTMENT
4. Adjust by using a Vs in. (3mm) hex wrench
} SEE FIG. 11 to turn the screw in the rear cover until the t SEE FIG. 12
1. Follow Steps 1-4 of the Fast Idle Cam bubble is centered. 1. Follow Steps 1-4 of the Fast Idle Cam
Adjustment. 5. After adjusting, apply RTV silicone sealant Adjustment.
2. Seat the choke vacuum diaphragm with an over the screw to seal the setting. 2. Seat the choke vacuum diaphragm with an
outside vacuum source. outside vacuum source.

5) AIR VALVE LINK MUST NOT RESTRICT PLUNGER

FROM RETRACTING FULLY. IF NECESSARY,
SUPPORT AT “5-S” AND BEND LINK (SEE ARROW)
TO PERMIT FULL PLUNGER TRAVEL. FINAL LINK
CLEARANCE MUST BE SET AFTER VACUUM BREAK
SETTING HAS BEEN MADE. WHERE APPLICABLE,
PLUNGER STEM MUST BE EXTENDED FULLY TO
COMPRESS BUCKING SPRING.
(?) TO CENTER BUBBLE, EITHER:
A ADJUST WITH 1/8"
(3.175 mm) HEX WRENCH
(VACUUM STILL APPLIED).
-OR-
B SUPPORT AT “6-S” AND BEND
LINK. (VACUUM STILL APPLIED).

© ATTACH RUBBER BAND TO INTER¬

MEDIATE CHOKE LEVER.
© OPEN THROTTLE TO ALLOW CHOKE
VALVE TO CLOSE.

© SET UP ANGLE GAGE AND SET

ANGLE TO SPECIFICATION.

© RETRACT VACUUM BREAK

PLUNGER USING VACUUM
SOURCE, AT LEAST 18" HG. PLUG
AIR BLEED HOLES WHERE APPLICABLE

FIG.11 Primary side vacuum break adjustment

5-6 FUEL SYSTEM

© ATTACH RUBBER BAND TO INTER¬

MEDIATE CHOKE LEVER.

© OPEN THROTTLE TO ALLOW CHOKE

VALVE TO CLOSE.

© SET UP ANGLE GAGE AND SET ANGLE

TO SPECIFICATION.

© RETRACT VACUUM BREAK PLUNGER

USING VACUUM SOURCE, AT LEAST 18"
HG. PLUG AIR BLEED HOLES WHERE
APPLICABLE.
WHERE APPLICABLE, PLUNGER STEM
MUST BE EXTENDED FULLY TO COM¬
PRESS PLUNGER BUCKING SPRING.

© TO CENTER BUBBLE, EITHER:

A. ADJUST WITH 1/8" (3.175 mm) HEX
WRENCH (VACUUM STILL APPLIED)
-OR
B. SUPPORT AT ‘‘5-S”, BEND LINK
(VACUUM STILL APPLIED)

FIG.12 Secondary side vacuum break adjustment

3. Push in on the intermediate choke lever to CHOKE UNLOADER valve by pushing in on the intermediate choke
close the choke valve, and hold closed during lever.
adjustment. Make sure the plunger spring is
ADJUSTMENT
4. Bend the unloader tang until the bubble is
compressed and seated, if present. centered.
4. Adjust by using a Vs in. (3mm) hex wrench t SEE FIG. 13
to turn the screw in the rear cover until the 1. Follow Steps 1-4 of the Fast Idle Cam
bubble is centered. Adjustment. SECONDARY LOCKOUT
5. After adjusting, apply RTV silicone sealant 2. Hold the primary throttle wide open. ADJUSTMENT
over the screw to seal the setting. 3. If the engine is warm, close the choke

| SEE FIG. 14
1. Pull the choke wide open by pushing out
(7) ATTACH RUBBER BAND TO INTER- on the intermediate choke lever.
MEDIATE CHOKE LEVER.
2. Open the throttle until the end of the
(?) OPEN THROTTLE TO ALLOW CHOKE secondary actuating lever is opposite the toe of
VALVE TO CLOSE.
the lockout lever.
(?) SET UP ANGLE GAGE AND SET ANGLE 3. Gauge clearance between the lockout lever
TO SPECIFICATIONS.
and secondary lever should be as specified.
© HOLD THROTTLE LEVER IN WIDE 4. To adjust, bend the lockout lever where It
OPEN POSITION.
contacts the fast idle cam.
(5) PUSH ON CHOKE SHAFT LEVER TO
OPEN CHOKE VALVE AND TO MAKE
CONTACT WITH BLACK CLOSING
TANG.
AIR VALVE SPRING
(?) ADJUST BY BENDING TANG UNTIL
BUBBLE IS CENTERED. ADJUSTMENT

I SEE FIG. 15
1. To gain access to the lock screw, remove
the intermediate choke link.
FIG.13 Choke unloader adjustment 2. Using a * 1 2 3/32 in. hex wrench, loosen the lock
screw.
 FUEL SYSTEM 5-7
that the throttle body and EFE mating surfaces
0 HOLD CHOKE VALVE WIDE OPEN BY are clean.
PUSHING DOWN ON INTERMEDIATE
CHOKE LEVER. 8. Install the carburetor and tighten the nuts
® OPEN THROTTLE LEVER alternately to the proper specifications.
UNTIL END OF SECONDARY 9. Installation of the remaining components is
ACTUATING LEVER IS OPPOSITE
TOE OF LOCKOUT LEVER.
in the reverse order of removal.

03) GAGE CLEARANCE - DIMENSION

SHOULD BE .025".

® IF NECESSARY TO ADJUST,
Carburetor Overhaul
BEND LOCKOUT LEVER TANG
CONTACTING FAST IDLE CAM. Efficient carburetion depends greatly on
careful cleaning and inspection during overhaul,
since dirt, gum, water, or varnish in or on the
carburetor parts are often responsible for poor
performance.
FIG.14 Secondary lockout adjustment Overhaul your carburetor in a clean, dust-free
area. Carefully disassemble the carburetor,
referring often to the exploded views and
directions packaged with the rebuilding kit. Keep
all similar and look-alike parts segregated during
© IF NECESSARY, REMOVE INTER- disassembly and cleaning to avoid accidental
MEDIATE CHOKE LINK, TO GAIN
ACCESS TO LOCK SCREW. -
interchange during assembly. Make a note of all
jet sizes.
© LOOSEN LOCK SCREW USING 3/32 When the carburetor is disassembled, wash
(2.381mm) HEX WRENCH. (5j
all parts (except diaphragms, electric choke
© TURN TENSION-ADJUSTING SCREW . units, pump plunger, and any other plastic,
0 UNTIL AIR VALVE OPENS SLIGHTLY. u leather, fiber, or rubber parts) in clean carburetor
solvent. Do not leave parts in the solvent any
TURN ADJUSTING SCREW O UNTIL
AIR VALVE JUST CLOSES. CONTINUE
longer than is necessary to sufficiently loosen
o SPECIFIED NUMBER OF TURNS. the deposits. Excessive cleaning may remove
the special finish from the float bowl and choke
© TIGHTEN LOCK SCREW.
valve bodies, leaving these parts unfit for
© APPLY LITHIUM BASE GREASE TO service. Rinse all parts in clean solvent and blow
^ LUBRICATE PIN AND SPRING CON¬ them dry with compressed air or allow them to
TACT AREA.
air dry. Wipe clean all cork, plastic, leather, and
fiber parts with a clean, lint-free cloth.
FIG.15 Air valve spring adjustment Blow out all passages and jets with
compressed air and be sure that there are no
restrictions or blockages. Never use wire or
similar tools to clean jets, fuel passages, or air
3. Turn the adjusting screw clockwise until choke valve and make contact with the black bleeds. Clean all jets and valves separately to
the air valve opens slightly, then turn the screw closing tang. avoid accidental interchange.
counterclockwise until the valve closes and 5. Support at the S point and bend the fast Check all parts for wear or damage. If wear or
continue the number of specified turns. idle cam link until the bubble is centered. damage is found, replace the defective parts.
4. Tighten the lock screw and apply lithium Especially check the following:
grease to the pin and the spring contact area. 1. Check the float needle and seat for wear. If
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION wear is found, replace the complete assembly.
2. Check the float hinge pin for wear and the
CHOKE LINK/FAST IDLE CAM float(s) for dents or distortion. Replace the float
1. Remove the air cleaner and gasket. if fuel has leaked into it.
ADJUSTMENT 2. Disconnect the fuel pipe and all vacuum 3. Check the throttle and choke shaft bores
lines. for wear or an out-of-round condition. Damage
1. Connect a rubber band to the intermediate 3. Tag and disconnect all electrical or wear to the throttle arm, shaft, or shaft bore
choke lever, then open the throttle valve to allow connections. will often require replacement of the throttle
the choke valve to close. 4. If equipped with an Automatic Transaxle, body. These parts require a close tolerance of fit;
2. Set up the angle gauge and the angle to disconnect the downshift cable. wear may allow air leakage, which could affect
specifications. 5. If equipped with cruise control, disconnect starting and idling.
3. Position the fast idle screw on the second the linkage.
step of the fast idle cam (against the rise of the 6. Unscrew the carburetor mounting bolts Throttle shafts and bushings are
high step). and remove the carburetor. not Included In overhaul kits. They
4. Turn the choke lever shaft to open the 7. Inspect the EFE heater for damage. Be sure can be purchases separately.
5-8 FUEL SYSTEM
4. Inspect the idle mixture adjusting needles
for burrs or grooves. Any such condition
requires replacement of the needle, since you
will not be able to obtain a satisfactory idle.
5. Test the accelerator pump check valves.
They should pass air one way but not the other.
Test for proper seating by blowing and sucking
on the valve. Replace the valve check ball and
spring as necessary. If the valve is satisfactory,
wash the valve parts again to remove breath
moisture.
6. Check the bowl cover for warped surfaces
with a straightedge.
7. Closely inspect the accelerator pump
plunger for wear and damage, replacing as
necessary.
8. After the carburetor is assembled, check
the choke valve for freedom of operation.
Carburetor overhaul kits are recommended for
each overhaul. These kits contain all gaskets and
new parts to replace those which deteriorate
most rapidly. Failure to replace all parts supplied
with the kit (especially gaskets) can result in
poor performance later.
Some carburetor manufacturers supply
overhaul kits for three basic types: minor repair;
major repair; and gasket kits. Basically, they
contain the following:
Minor Repair Kits:
• All gaskets
• Float needle valve
• All diagrams
• Spring for the pump diaphragm
Major Repair Kits:
• All jets and gaskets
• All diaphragms
• Float needle valve E2SE Carburetor Overhaul i* Do not remove fast Idle cam
• Pump ball valve screw and cam from the float bowl.
• Float AIR HORN If removed, the cam might not
• Complete intermediate rod 1. Invert the carburetor, then remove the plug operate properly when
• Intermediate pump lever covering the idle mixture needle as previously reassembled. If needed, a
• Some cover holddown screws and described. replacement float bowl will Include
washers 2. Install the carburetor in a suitable holding a secondary locknut lever, fast Idle
Gasket Kits: stand. cam, and cam screw.
• All gaskets 3. Remove the primary and secondary
8. Remove the retainer from the pump link.
After cleaning and checking all components, vacuum break assemblies. Be sure to take note
of the linkage positions for installation. Do not remove the screw attaching the pump
reassemble the carburetor, using new parts and
lever to the air horn assembly. When
referring to the exploded view. When 4. Remove the three screws from the mixture
reassembling, make surethat all screws and jets reassembled, the screw might not hold properly.
control solenoid. Remove the mixture control
are tight in their seats, but do not overtighten as solenoid with gasket and discard the gasket. 9. Remove the seven screw assemblies of
5. Remove the two screws from the vent various length that retain the air horn to the
the tips will be distorted. Tighten all screws
gradually, in rotation. Do not tighten needle stack and remove the vent stack. Remove the carburetor and remove the air horn assembly.
valves into their seats; uneven jetting will result. intermediate choke shaft link retainer at the Tilt the air horn to disconnect fast idle cam link
choke lever and discard it. from the slot in fast idle cam and the pump link
Always use new gaskets. Be sure to adjust the
float level when reassembling. 6. Remove the choke link and bushing from from the hole in the pump lever.
choke lever and save the bushing. 10. Remove the cam link from the choke
7. Remove the retainer and bushing from the lever. Be sure to line up the “squirt” on link with
fast idle cam link and discard the retainer. slot in lever.
11. Invert the air horn and remove the TPS
actuator plunger. The TPS adjusting screw and
plug should not be removed.
 FUEL SYSTEM 5-9
12. Remove the stakings that holds the TPS
plunger seal retainer and pump stem seal
retainer.
13. Remove the retainers and seals and
discard them.
14. Further disassembly of the air horn is not
required for cleaning purposes. The choke valve
and choke valve screws, the air valve and air
valve shaft should not be removed.
Do not turn the secondary
metering rod adjusting screw. The
rod could come out of jet and
possibly cause damage.
FLOAT BOWL
1. Remove the accelerator pump, air horn FIG.71 Air horn assembly, bottom view - E2SE shown
gasket and pump return spring.
2. Remove the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)
assembly and spring. Inspect the TPS connector
wires for broken insulation, which could cause
grounding of the TPS.
3. Remove the upper insert and the hinge pin.
Remove the float and lever assembly with the
float stabilizing spring if used. Remove the float
needle and pull clip.
4. Remove the lower insert, if used.
5. Remove the float needle seat and seat
gasket.
6. Remove the jet and lean mixture needle
assembly.
**• Do not remove or change the
preset adjustment of calibration
needle In the metering Jet unless
the Computer Command Control
system performance check
requires it.
7. Remove the pump discharge spring guide,
using a suitable slide hammer puller only.
r+ Do not pry the guide. Damage
could occur to the sealing surfaces,
and could require replacement of
the float bowl.
9. Remove the spring and check ball, by
inverting the bowl and catching them as they fall.
10. Remove the fuel inlet nut and the fuel filter
spring.
11. Remove the fuel filter assembly and
discard it. Remove the filter gasket and discard
it.
CHOKE ASSEMBLY AND THROTTLE BODY
1. Remove the choke cover as follows:
a. Use a 5/32 in. (4 mm) drill bit to remove
the heads (only) from the rivets.
b. Remove the choke cover retainers.
Remove the remaining pieces of rivets, using intermediate choke shaft, lever and link body assembly from the inverted float bowl.
drift and small hammer. assembly. 5. Remove the gasket, pump link and line
c. Remove the electric choke cover and 3. Remove the two screws and the choke up the “squirt” on link with the slot in the lever.
stat assembly. housing. 6. Count and make a record of the number
2. Remove the stat lever screw, Stat lever, 4. Remove the four screws, and the throttle of turns needed to lightly bottom the idle
5-10 FUEL SYSTEM
Do not Immerse Idle stop
solenoid, mixture control solenoid,
throttle lever actuator, TPS,
electric choke, rubber and plastic
parts, diaphragms, and pump In the
cleaner, as they may be damaged.
Plastic bushing in throttle lever will
withstand normal cleaning.
2. Blow dry the parts with shop air. Be sure
all fuel and air passages are free of burrs and
dirt. Do not pass drill bits or wires through jets
and passages.
3. Be sure to check the mating surfaces of
casting for damage. Replace if necessary. Check
for holes in levers for wear or out-of-round
conditions. Check the bushings for damage and
excessive wear. Replace if necessary.
CARBURETOR REASSEMBLY
1. Install the mixture needle and spring
assembly using Idle mixture socket tool J-
29030-B or BT—7610—B or equivalent. Lightly
bottom the needle and back it out the number of
turns recorded during removal, as a preliminary
adjustment. Refer to idle mixture adjustment
FIG.72 Lean mixture adjusting needle and procedure in this section for the final idle mixture
tool - E2SE shown adjustment.
2. Install the pump link and a new gasket on
the inverted float bowl.
3. Install the throttle body to the float bowl
assembly and finger tighten the four retaining
screws. If the secondary actuating lever engages
the lockout lever, and linkage moves without
binding, tighten retaining screws.
4. If the float bowl assembly was replaced,
stamp or engrave the model number on the new
float bowl in same location as on old bowl.
5. Place the throttle body and float bowl
together on a suitable carburetor holding stand.
6. Install the choke housing on the throttle
body, with the retaining screws.
7. Install the intermediate choke shaft, lever
and link assembly.
FIG.73 Removing the choke cover rivets - 8. Install the choke stat lever on the
E2SE shown intermediate choke shaft. The intermediate
choke lever must be upright.
9. Install the choke lever attaching screw in
the shaft.
mixture needle (69), then back out and remove 10. Install the gasket on the fuel inlet nut and
needle and spring assembly using Idle mixture install the new filter assembly in the nut.
socket tool J—29030—B or BT—7610—B or 11. Install the filter spring and then Install the
equivalent. fuel inlet nut. Tighten the fuel inlet nut to 18 ft.
7. Do not disassemble throttle body lbs. (24 Nm).
further.
INSPECTION AND CLEANING « CAUTION
1. Place the metal parts in immersion
carburetor cleaner. Tightening beyond this limit may
damage gasket and could cause a
fuel leak, which might result In
personal Injury.
 FUEL SYSTEM 5-11
- HOOK PULL CLIP OVER EDGE 22. Install a new TPS actuator plunger seal
Of FLOAT LEVER FACING PONTOON with the lip facing outside of carburetor and
DO NOT
install the retainer. Be sure to stake it at new
HOOK PULL CLIP locations.
IN THESE HOLES
23. Install the TPS plunger through the seal in
the air horn. Use lithium base grease, liberally to
pin, if used, where contacted by spring.
FLOAT AND
24. Install the fast idle cam link in the choke
'LEVER ASSEMBLY lever. Be sure to line-up the “squirt” on link with
slot in lever.
25. Rotate the cam to the highest position.
The lower end of the fast idle cam link goes in
cam slot, and the pump link end goes into the
hole in the lever.
26. Hold the pump down, and than lower the
FIG.77 Float needle pull clip location - E2SE shown air horn assembly onto the float bowl. Be sure to
guide the pump stem through the seal.
27. Install the one of the air horn retaining
screws, finger tight to hold the air horn in place.
28. Install the cam link in the slot of the cam.
Install a new bushing and retainer to the link, with
the large end of bushing facing the retainer.
Check for freedom of movement.
29. Install the rest of the air horn retaining
screws.
30. Install the spacer and a new seal, lightly
coat the seal with automatic transmission fluid.
Assemble the seal on the solenoid stem,
touching the spacer.
31. Install a new retainer and a new gasket on
the air horn. Install the mixture control solenoid
lining up the stem with the recess in the bowl.
32. Install the solenoid retaining screws.
Install the vent stack, with two retaining screws,
(unless lean mixture needle requires on-vehicle
adjustment).
33. Install a new retainer on the pump link.
Adjust the air valve spring, if adjustable.
x 34. Install the bushing on the choke link. With
the intermediate choke lever upright, install the
12. Install the pump discharge ball and 16. Bend the float lever upward slightly at the
link in the choke lever hole. Install the new link
spring. notch.
retainer.
13. Install a new spring guide and tap it until 17. If used, install the float stabilizing spring
35. The following procedures is for
the top is flush with the bowl casting. on float. Install the hinge pin in float lever, with
reassembly of any small components that have
14. Install the needle seat with gasket. If ends toward the pump well.
been removed from the carburetor, if part
used, lower the insert. 18. Install the needle with pull clip assembly
replacement is necessary or for any other
15. Install the jet and lean mixture needle on the edge of the float lever. Install the float and
reason.
assembly. Using lean mixture adjusting tool J- lever assembly in float bowl.
a. Install the idle stop solenoid, retainer
28696-10 or BT-7928 or equivalent, lightly p» Adjust the float level using Float and nut to the secondary side vacuum break
bottom the lean mixture needle. Back it out 2V2 Level T-Scale J-9789-90 or BT- bracket. Bend the retainer tab to secure nut.
turns, as a preliminary adjustment. 8037 or equivalent. b. Install the bushing to the link and the
p» Only adjust the lean mixture 19. Install the upper insert over the hinge pin, link to the vacuum break plunger. Install the
needle screw If It was removed or with the top flush with the bowl. Install the TPS retainer to the link.
touched during disassembly or if spring and the TPS assembly. The parts must be c. Rotate the assembly, insert the end of
the Computer Command Control below the surface of the bowl. the link in the upper slot of the choke lever.
system performance check, made 20. Install the gasket over the dowels. Install Install the bracket screws.
before disassembly, Indicated an the spring and pump assembly. d. Install the idle speed device, retainer
incorrect lean mixture needle 21. Install a new pump stem seal with the lip and nut to the primary side vacuum break
facing outside of carburetor and install the bracket. Bend the retainer tab to secure the
setting:
retainer. Be sure to stake it at new locations. nut.
5-12 FUEL SYSTEM
e-—42B

FIG.79 Exploded view of E2SE carburetor

 FUEL SYSTEM 5-13

AIR HORN PARTS FLOAT BOWL PARTS

1. MIXTURE CONTROL (M/C) SOLENOID 42. NUT FUEL INLET

2. SCREW ASSEMBLY-SOLENOID ATTACHING 43. GASKET-FUEL INLET NUT
3. GASKET-M/C SOLENOID TO AIR HORN 44. FILTER FUEL INLET
4. SPACER-M/C SOLENOID 45. SPRING-FUEL FILTER
5. SEAL-M/C SOLENOID TO FLOAT BOWL 46. FLOAT AND LEVER ASSEMBLY
6. RETAINER-M/C SOLENOID SEAL 47. HINGE PIN-FLOAT
7. AIR HORN ASSEMBLY 48. UPPER INSERT-FLOAT BOWL
8. GASKET-AIR HORN TO FLOAT BOWL 48A LOWER INSERT FLOAT BOWL
9. SCREW AIR HORN TO FLOAT BOWL (SHORT) 49. NEEDLE AND SEAT ASSEMBLY
10. SCREW-AIR HORN TO FLOAT BOWL (LONG) 50. SPRING-PUMP RETURN
11. SCREW AIR HORN TO FLOAT BOWL (LARGE) 51. PUMP PLUNGER ASSEMBLY
12. VENT STACK AND SCREEN ASSEMBLY 52. PRIMARY METERING JET ASSEMBLY
13. SCREW VENT STACK ATTACHING 53. RETAINER PUMP DISCHARGE BALL ,
14. SEAL-PUMP STEM 54. SPRING-PUMP DISCHARGE
15. RETAINER-PUMP STEM SEAL 55. BALL PUMP DISCHARGE
16. SEAL-T.P.S. PLUNGER 56. SPRING T.P.S. ADJUSTING
17. RETAINER T.P.S. PLUNGER SEAL 57. SENSOR THROTTLE POSITION (TPS)
18. PLUNGER T.P.S. ACTUATOR 58. FLOAT BOWL ASSEMBLY
59. GASKET FLOAT BOWL
CHOKE PARTS

19, VACUUM BREAK AND BRACKET ASSEMBLY PRIMARY THROTTLE BODY PARTS
20. HOSE VACUUM BREAK PRIMARY
21. TEE VACUUM BREAK 60. RETAINER PUMP LINK
22. SOLENOID IDLE SPEED 61. LINK-PUMP
23. RETAINER IDLE SPEED SOLENOID 62. THROTTLE BODY ASSEMBLY
24. NUT IDLE SPEED SOLENOID ATTACHING 63. CLIP CAM SCREW
25. SCREW VACUUM BREAK BRACKET ATTACHING 64. SCREW-FAST IDLE CAM
26. LINK-AIR VALVE 65. IDLE NEEDLE AND SPRING ASSEMBLY

27. BUSHING AIR VALVE LINK 66. SCREW-THROTTLE BODY TO FLOAT BOWL
28. RETAINER AIR VALVE LINK 68. SCREW IDLE STOP
29. LINK-FAST IDLE CAM 69. SPRING IDLE STOP SCREW
29A LINK FAST IDLE CAM 70. GASKET INSULATOR FLANGE
29B RETAINER LINK
29C BUSHING-LINK
30. HOSE-VACUUM BREAK
31. INTERMEDIATE CHOKE SHAFT/LEVER/LINK
ASSEMBLY
32. BUSHING INTERMEDIATE CHOKE LINK
33. RETAINER INTERMEDIATE CHOKE LINK
34. VACUUM BREAK AND LINK ASSEMBLY SECONDARY
35. SCREW VACUUM BREAK ATTACHING
36. ELECTRIC CHOKE-COVER AND COIL ASSEMBLY
37. SCREW-CHOKE LEVER ATTACHING
38. CHOKE COIL LEVER ASSEMBLY
39. CHOKE HOUSING
40. SCREW CHOKE HOUSING ATTACHING
41. CHOKE COVER RETAINER KIT
67. SCREW VACUUM BREAK BRACKET ATTACHING

FIG.79 Exploded view of E2SE carburetor

5-14 FUEL SYSTEM

CARBURETOR
HOLDING STAND
J-9789-118
OR
BT-3553

FIG.81 Carburetor holding stand must be used

e. Install the bushing to the vacuum break

link. Install the link to vacuum break plunger.
Install the retainer to the link and the bushing
to the air valve link. Install the link to the
plunger and the retainer to the link.
36. Rotate the vacuum break assembly
(primary side) and insert the end of the air
valve link into the air valve lever and the
vacuum break link into the lower slot of the
choke lever.
37. Install the bracket screws, vacuum
hose between the throttle body tube and the
vacuum break assembly.
38. Install the choke thermostat lever.
Install the choke cover and thermostat
assembly in the choke housing.
39. If the thermostat has a “trap” (box¬ RECESSED IDLE MIXTURE
NEEDLE AND PLUG LOCATIONS
shaped pick-up tang), the trap surrounds the
lever. FIG.82 Idle mixture needle plug removal - E2ME shown
40. Line up the notch in the cover with
projection on the housing flange. Install the
retainers and rivets with rivet tool. If
necessary, use an adapter. Adjust the choke
as previously described.
E2ME Carburetor Overhaul
In many cases, necessary service can be
carried out and completed without removing the
carburetor from the engine. The information that
follows pertains to a complete overhaul. The
carburetor first must be removed from the
engine. A complete overhaul includes
disassembly, through cleaning, inspection and
replacement of all gaskets, diaphragms, seals,
worn or damaged parts, and adjustment of
individual systems.
Refer to exploded view for parts identification.
Always replace internal gaskets that are
removed. Base gasket should be inspected and
replaced, only if damaged.
 FUEL SYSTEM 5-15
** CAUTION
For the next operation, safety
glasses must be worn to protect
eyes from possible metal shaving
damage.

4. Lift off cover and remove any pieces of

rivet still inside tower. Use shop air to blow out
any remaining chips.
5. Remove idle air bleed valve from the air
horn.
6. Remove and discard 0-ring seals from
valve. New 0-ring seals are required for
reassembly. The idle air bleed valve is serviced
as a complete assembly only.
Before performing any service on
the carburetor, It Is essential that it
be placed on a suitable holding
fixture, such as Tool J-9789-118,
BY-30-15 or equivalent. Without
the use of the holding fixture, it Is
possible to damage throttle valves
or other parts of the carburetor.
IDLE SPEED SOLENOID REMOVAL
Remove the attaching screws, then remove
the Idle Speed Solenoid. The Idle Speed Solenoid
should not be immersed in any carburetor
cleaner, and should always be removed before
complete carburetor overhaul, as carburetor RIVETS AND
cleaner will damage the internal components. CHOKE COVER
RETAINERS
IDLE MIXTURE NEEDLE PLUG REMOVAL
1. Use hacksaw to make two parallel cuts in FIG.85 Removing choke cover - E2ME shown
the throttle body, one on each side of the locator
points near one idle mixture needle plug. The
distance between the cuts will depend on the
size of the punch to be used. Cuts should reach
down to the steel plug, but should but extend
more than Vs in. beyond the locator points.
2. Place a flat punch at a point near the ends
of the saw marks in the throttle body. Hold the
punch at a 45° angle, and drive it into the throttle
body until the casting breaks away, exposing the
hardened steel plug. The plug will break, rather
than remaining intact. Remove all the loose
pieces.
3. Repeat the procedure for the other idle
mixture needle plug.
IDLE AIR BLEED VAL VE REMOVAL
1. Cover internal bowl vents and air inlets to
the bleed valve with masking tape.
2. Carefully align a VM in. drill bit on rivet
head. Drill only enough to remove head of each
rivet holding the idle air bleed valve cover.
3. Use a suitably sized punch to drive out the
remainder of the rivet from the castings. Repeat
procedure with other rivet.
5-16 FUEL SYSTEM
 FUEL SYSTEM 5-17

1 Gasket - Air Cleaner 237 Float

5 Gasket-Flange 238 Pull Clip - Float Needle
10 Air Horn Assembly 239 Needle - Float
11 Rivet - Cover Attaching 240 Seat-FloatNeedle
12 Cover * Air 8leed Valve 241 Gasket-Float Needle Seat v
15 Air Bleed Valve Assembly 250 Plug - Pump Discharge (Retainer)
16 O-ringAir Bleed Valve - Lower 251 Ball - Pump Discharge
17 O-ring - Air Bleed Valve - Upper 252 Baffle - Pump Well
35 Lever-Choke 255 Primary Metering Jet Assembly
36 Screw - Choke Lever Attaching 315 Hose - Secondary Side (Rear) Vacuum Break
41 Lever-Pump 320 Vacuum Break Assembly - Secondary Side (Rear)
42 Pin - Pump Lever Hinge 321 Screw - Secondary Side (Rear) Vacuum Break Assembly
46 Screw Assembly - Air Horn to Float Bowl Attaching
47 Screw - Air Horn to Float Bowl (countersunk) 322 Link - Secondary Side (Rear) Vacuum Break to Choke
55 Vacuum Break Assembly - Primary Side (Front) 330 Rivet - Choke Cover Attaching
56 Screw - Primary Side (Front) Vacuum Break Assembly 331 Retainer - Choke Cover
Attaching 335 Electric Choke Cover and Stat Assembly
57 Hose - Primary Side (Front) Vacuum Break 340 Choke Housing Assembly
60 Plunger - Sensor Actuator' 341 Screw and Washer Assembly - Choke Housing to Float
61 Plug - TPS Adjusting Screw Bowl
62 Screw - TPS Adjusting 345 Screw - Choke Stat Lever Attaching
65 Retainer - TPS Seal 348 Lever-Choke Stat
66 Seal - TPS Plunger 350 Intermediate Choke Shaft, Lever and Link Assembly
67 Retainer - Pump Stem Seal 352 Fast Idle Cam Assembly
68 Seal - Pump Stem 354 Lever - Intermediate Choke
70 Plug - Solenoid Adjusting Screw 356 Link - Choke
71 Plug - Solenoid Stop Screw 364 Seal - Intermediate Choke Shaft
72 Screw - Solenoid Stop (Rich Mixture) 370 Nut - Fuel Inlet
200 Float Bowl Assembly 372 Gasket - Fuel Inlet Nut
201 Gasket - Air Horn to Float Bowl 375 Filter - Fuel Inlet
205 Pump Assembly 377 Spring - Fuel Filter
206 Spring - Pump Return 380 Screw - Throttle Stop
210 Sensor - Throttle Position (TPS) 381 Spring - Throttle Stop Screw
211 Spring - Sensor Adjusting 400 Throttle Body Assembly
213 Rod - Primary Metering 401 Gasket - Float Bowl to Throttle Body
215 Plunger - Solenoid 405 Screw Assembly - Float Bowl to Throttle Body
217 Spring - Primary Metering Rod (E2M, E4M only) 410 Link - Pump
221 Screw - Solenoid Connector Attaching 420 Needle - Idle Mixture
222 Gasket - Solenoid Connector to Air Horn 421 Spring - Idle Mixture Needle
225 Mixture Control Solenoid Assembly 422 Plug - Idle Mixture Needle
226 Screw - Solenoid Adjusting (Lean Mixture) 425 Screw - Fast Idle Adjusting
227 Stop - Rich Limit 426 Spring - Fast Idle Adjusting Screw
228 Spring - Solenoid Adjusting Screw 500 Solenoid and Bracket Assembly
229 Spring - Solenoid Return 501 Screw - Bracket Attaching
234 Insert - Aneroid Cavity 515 Idle Speed Control Assembly
235 Insert - Float Bowl
236 Hinge Pin - Float Description - E4ME

FIG.87 Exploded view of E2ME carburetor

5-18 FUEL SYSTEM
AIR HORN REMOVAL (• Use care in removing the TPS 7. Remove the mixture control solenoid from
1. Remove upper choke lever from the end of plunger seal retainer and pump the float bowl as follows:
choke shaft by removing retaining screw. Rotate plunger stem seal retainer to a. Remove screw attaching solenoid
upper choke lever to remove choke rod from slot prevent damage to air horn casting. connector to float bowl. Do not remove
in lever. New seals and retainers are solenoid connector from float bowl until called
2. Remove choke rod from lower lever inside required for reassembly. for in text.
the float bowl casting. Remove rod by holding 11. Invert air horn, and use Tool J-28696—4, b. Use ToolJ—28696—10, BT-7928, or
lower lever outward with small screwdriver and BT-7967A, or equivalent, to remove rich mixture equivalent, to remove lean mixture (solenoid)
twisting rod counterclockwise. stop screw and spring. screw. Do not remove plunger return spring or
3. Remove secondary metering rods by 12. Use a suitable punch to drive the lean connector and wires from the solenoid body.
removing the small screw in the top of the mixture screw plug and rich mixture stop screw The mixture control solenoid, with plunger and
metering rod hanger. Lift upward on the metering plug out of the air horn. Discard the plugs. connector, is only serviced as a complete
rod hanger until the secondary metering rods are 13. Further disassembly of the air horn is not assembly.
completely out of the air horn. Metering rods required for cleaning purposes. c. Remove rubber gasket from top of
may be disassembled from the hanger by The choke valve and choke valve screws, the solenoid connector and discard.
rotating the ends out of the holes in the end of the air valves and air valve shaft should not be d. Remove solenoid screw tension spring
hanger. removed. However, if it is necessary to replace (next to float hanger pin).
4. Remove pump link retainer and remove the air valve closing springs or center plastic 8. Remove float assembly and float needle
link from pump lever. eccentric cam, a repair kit is available. by pulling up on retaining pin. Remove needle
Do not attempt to remove the Instructions for assembly are included in the and seat and gasket using set remover Tool
lever, as damage to the air horn repair kit. J—22769, BT-3006M, or equivalent.
could result. 9. Remove large mixture control solenoid
FLOAT BOWL DISASSEMBLY tension spring from boss on bottom of float
5. Remove front vacuum break hose from 1. Remove solenoid metering rod plunger by bowl located between guided metering jets.
tube on float bowl. lifting straight up. 10. If necessary, remove the primary main
6. Remove eleven air hom-to-bowl screws; 2. Remove air horn gasket by lifting it from metering jets using special Tool J—28696-4,
then remove the two countersunk attaching the dowel locating pins on float bowl. Discard BT-7928, or equivalent.
screws located next to the venturi. If used, gasket.
r+ Use care Installing tool on Jet, to
remove secondary air baffle deflector from 3. Remove pump plunger from pump well.
beneath the two center air horn screws.
prevent damage to the metering
4. Remove staking holding Throttle Position
rod guide (upper area), and
7. Remove air horn from float bowl by lifting Sensor (TPS) in bowl as follows:
locating tool over vertical float
it straight up. The air horn gasket should remain a. Lay a flat tool or metal piece across
sections on lower area of jet. Also,
on the float bowl for removal later. bowl casting to protect gasket sealing surface.
no attempt should be made to
^ When removing air horn from float b. Use a small screwdriver to depress
remove the secondary metering
bowl, use care to prevent damaging TPS sensor lightly and hold against spring
jets (metering orifice plates).
the mixture control solenoid tension.
These jets are fixed and, If
connector, Throttle Position Sensor c. Observing safety precautions, pry
damaged, entire bowl replacement
(TPS) adjustment lever, and the upward with a small chisel or equivalent to
is required.
small tubes protruding from the air remove bowl staking, making sure prying
force is exerted against the metal piece and 11. Remove pump discharge check ball
horn. These tubes are permanently
not against the bowl casting.Use care not to retainer and turn bowl upside down, catching
pressed Into the air horn casting.
damage the TPS sensor. discharge ball as if falls.
DO NOT remove them.
d. Push up from bottom on electrical 12. Remove secondary air baffle, if replaced
8. Remove front vacuum break bracket connector and remove TPS and connector is required.
attaching screws. The vacuum break assembly assembly from bowl. Use care in removing 13. Remove pump well fill slot baffle only if
may now be removed from the air valve dashpot sensor and connector assembly to prevent necessary.
rod, and the dashpot rod from the air valve lever. damage to this critical electrical part.
CHOKE DISASSEMBLY
Do not place vacuum break e. Remove spring from bottom of TPS
The tamper-resistant choke cover is used to
assembly in carburetor cleaner, as well in float bowl.
discourage unnecessary readjustment of the
damage to vacuum break will 5. Remove plastic bowl insert from float choke thermostatic cover and coil assembly.
occur. bowl. However, if it is necessary to remove the cover
9. Remove Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) 6. Carefully lift each metering rod out of the and coil assembly during normal carburetor
plunger by pushing plunger down through seal in guided metering jet, checking to be sure the disassembly for cleaning and normal carburetor
air horn. return spring is removed with each metering disassembly for cleaning and overhaul, the
10. Remove TPS seal and pump plunger rod. procedures below should be followed.
stem seal by inverting air horn and using a small Use extreme care when handling 1. Support float bowl and throttle body, as an
screwdriver to remove staking holding seal these critical parts to avoid assembly, on a suitable holding fixture such as
retainers in place. Remove and discard retainers damage to the metering rod and Tool J-9789—118, BT-30-15, or equivalent.
and seals. spring. 2. Carefully align a 5/32 in. drill (0.159 in.) on
rivet head and drill only enough to remove rivet
head. Drill the two remaining rivet heads, then
 FUEL SYSTEM 5-19
use a drift and small hammer to drive the the final idle mixture adjustment is made on the p+ When Installing a service
remainder of the rivets out of the choke housing. vehicle. replacement filter, make sure the
i* Use care in drilling to prevent 3. If a new float bowl assembly is used, filter is the type that Includes the
damage to the choke cover or stamp or engrave the model number on the new check valve to meet government
housing. float bowl. Install new throttle body-to-bowl safety standard. New service
insulator gasket over two locating dowels on replacement filters with check
3. Remove the two conventional retainers, bowl. valve meet this requirement. When
retainer with tab, and choke cover assembly 4. Install throttle body making certain throttle properly installed, the hole In the
from choke housing. body is properly located over dowels on float filter faces toward the inlet nut.
4. Remove choke housing assembly from bowl. Install three throttle body-to-bowl screws Ribs on the closed end of the filter
float bowl by removing retaining screw and and lockwashers and tighten evenly and element prevent it from being
washer inside the choke housing. The complete securely. installed incorrectly, unless forced.
choke assembly can be removed from the float 5. Place carburetor on proper holding fixture Tightening beyond the specified
bowl by sliding outward. such as J—9789-118, BT-30-15 or equivalent. ' torque can damage the nylon
5. Remove secondary throttle valve lock-out 6. Install fuel inlet filter spring, a new check gasket.
lever from float bowl. valve filter assembly, new gasket and inlet nut. 7. Install a new cup seal into the insert on the
6. Remove lower choke lever from inside Tighten nut to 18 ft. lbs. (24 Nm). side of the float bowl for the intermediate choke
float bowl cavity by inverting bowl. shaft. The lip on the cup seal faces outward.
7. To disassemble intermediate choke shaft 8. Install the secondary throttle valve lock-out
from choke housing, remove coil lever retaining lever on the boss of the float bowl, with the
screw at end of shaft inside the choke housing. recess hole in the lever facing inward.
Remove thermostatic coil lever from flats on 9. Install the fast idle cam on the intermediate
intermediate choke shaft. choke shaft (steps on cam face downward).
8. Remove intermediate choke shaft from the 10. Carefully install fast idle cam and
choke housing by sliding it outward. The fast idle intermediate choke shaft assembly in the choke
cam can now be removed from the intermediate housing. Install the thermostatic coil lever on the
choke shaft. Remove the cup seal from the float flats on the intermediate choke shaft. Inside
bowl cleaning purposes. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO thermostatic choke coil lever is properly aligned
REMOVE THE INSERT. when both inside and outside levers face toward
9. Remove fuel inlet nut, gasket, check valve, the fuel inlet. Install inside lever retaining screw
filter assembly and spring. Discard Check valve into the end of the intermediate choke shaft.
filter assembly and gasket. 11. install lower choke rod (inner) lever into
10. Remove three throttle body-to-bowl cavity in float bowl.
attaching screws and lockwashers and remove FIG.88 Installing mixture control solenoid,
12. Install choke housing to bowl, sliding
throttle body assembly. using special gauging tool - E2ME shown
intermediate choke shaft into lower (inner) lever.
11. Remove throttle body-to-bowl insulator Tool J—23417, BT—6911 or equivalent, can be
gasket. used to hold the lower choke lever in correct
THROTTLE BODY DISASSEMBL Y position while installing the choke housing. The
Place throttle body assembly on carburetor intermediate choke shaft lever and fast idle cam
holding fixture to avoid damage to throttle valves. are in correct position when the tang on lever is
1. Remove pump rod from the throttle lever beneath the fast idle cam.
by rotating the rod until the tang on the rod aligns 13. Install choke housing retaining screws
with the slot in the lever. and washers. Check linkage for freedom of
2. Use Tool J-29030-B, BT-7610B, or movement. Do not install choke cover and coil
equivalent, to remove idle mixture needles for assembly until inside coil lever is adjusted.
thorough throttle body cleaning. 14. If removed, install air baffle in secondary
3. Further disassembly of the throttle body is side of float bowl with notches toward the top.
not required for cleaning purposes. The throttle Top edge of baffle must be flush with bowl
valve screws are permanently staked in place casting.
and should not be removed. The throttle body is 15. If removed, install baffle inside of the
serviced as a complete assembly. pump well with slot toward the bottom.
16. Install pump discharge check ball and
CARBURETOR REASSEMBLY retainer screw in the passage next to the pump
1. Install the lower end of the pump rod in the well.
throttle lever by aligning the tang on the rod with 17. If removed, carefully install primary main
the slot in the lever. The end of the rod should metering jets in bottom of float bowl using Tool
point outward toward the throttle lever. J—28696-4, BT—7928, or equivalent.
2. Install idle mixture needles and springs
using Tool J—29030—B, BT07610B, or Use care In Installing Jets to
equivalent. Lightly seat each needle and then turn prevent damage to metering rod
counterclockwise the number of speified turns, guide.
5-20 FUEL SYSTEM
18. Install large mixture control solenoid
tension spring over boss on bottom of float bowl.
19. Install needle seat assembly, with gasket,
using seat installer J-22769, BT-3006M, or
equivalent.
20. To make adjustment easier, carefully
bend float arm before assembly.
21. Install float needle onto float arm by
sliding float lever under needle pull clip. Proper
installation of the needle pull clip is to hook the
clip over the edge of the float on the float arm
facing the float pontoon.
22. Install float hinge pin into float arm with
end of loop of pin facing pump well. Install float
assembly by aligning needle in the seat, and float
hinge pin into locating channels in float bowl. DO
NOT install float needle pull clip into holes in float
arm.
23. Make a float level adjustment as
necessary.
24. Install mixture control solenoid screw
tension spring between raised bosses next to
float hanger pin.
25. Install mixture control solenoid and
connector assembly as follows:
a. Install new rubber gasket on top of
solenoid connector.
b. Install solenoid carefully in the float
chamber, aligning pin on end of solenoid with
hole in raised boss at bottom of bowl. Align
solenoid connector wires to fit in slot in bowl.
c. Install lean mixture (solenoid) screw
through hole in solenoid bracket and tension
spring in bowl, engaging first six screw
threads to assure proper thread engagement.
d. Install mixture control solenoid gaging 7928, or equivalent, to turn the lean mixture f. Remove solenoid plunger and gaging
Tool J—33815—1, BT-8253-A, or equivalent (solenoid) screw slowly clockwise, until the tool.
over the throttle side metering jet rod guide, solenoid plunger just contacts the gaging tool. 26. Install connector attaching screw, but DO
and temporarily install solenoid plunger. The adjustment is correct when the solenoid NOT overtighten, as that could cause damage to
e. Holding the solenoid plunger against plunger is contacting BOTH the Solenoid Stop the connector.
the Solenoid Stop, use Tool J—28696—10, BT- and the Gaging Tool. 27. Install Throttle Position Sensor return
spring in bottom of well in float bowl.
28. Install Throttle Position Sensor and
connector assembly in float bowl by aligning
groove in electrical connector with slot in float
bowl casting. Push down on connector and
sensor assembly so that connector and wires
are located below bowl casting surface.
29. Install plastic bowl insert over float valve,
pressing downward until properly seated (flush
with bowl casting surface).
PLUG - SOLENOID ADJUSTING
SCREW (TOP OF PLUG SHOULD
30. Slide metering rod return spring over
BE FLUSH WITH BOTTOM OF metering rod tip until small end of spring stops
CHAMFER) against shoulder on rod. Carefully install
PLUG - SOLENOID STOP SCREW metering rod and spring assembly through
- NOT USED ON ALL MODELS
(TOP OF PLUG SHOULD BE holding in plastic bowl insert and gently lower
1/16” BELOW SURFACE) the metering rod into the guided metering jet,
until large end of spring seats on the recess on
end of jet guide.
FIG.90 Installing solenoid adjusting (lean mixture) screw plug - E2ME shown
 FUEL SYSTEM 5-21
Use care Installing the roll pin to
prevent damage to the pump lever
bearing surface and casting
bosses.
10. Install two secondary metering rods into
the secondary metering rod hanger (upper end of
rods point toward each other). Install secondary
metering rod holder, with rods, onto air valve
cam follower. Install retaining screw and tighten
securely. Work air valves up and down several
times to make sure they remove freely in both
directions.
11. Connect choke rod into lower choke lever
inside bowl cavity. Install choke rod in slot in
upper choke lever, and position lever on end of
choke shaft, making sure flats on end of shaft
align with flats in lever. Install attaching screw
FIG.93 Float needle pull clip location - E2ME shown
and tighten securely. When properly installed,
the number on the lever will face outward.
12. Adjust the rich mixture stop screw:
3. Install new pump plunger and TPS plunger
« CAUTION seals and retainers in air horn casting. The lip on a. Insert external float gaging Tool J-
the seal faces outward, away from the air horn 34935-1 ,BT-8420A, or equivalent, in the
Do not force metering rod down In
mounting surface. Lightly stake seal retainer in vertical D-shaped vent hole in the air hom
jet. Use extreme care when casting (next to the idle air bleed valve) and
handling these critical parts to three places, choosing locations different from
allow it to float freely.
avoid damage to rod and spring, if the original stakings.
b. Read (at eye level) the mark on the
service replacement metering 4. Install rich mixture stop screw and rich
gauge, in inches, that lines up with the tip of
rods, springs and Jets are Installed, authority adjusting spring from bottom side of
the air hom casting.
they must be Installed In matched the air horn. Use Tool J—2869-4, BT-7967A, or
equivalent, to bottom the stop screw lightly, then c. Lightly press down on gage, and again
sets.
back out V4 turn. Final adjustment procedure will read and record the mark on the gauge that
be covered later in this section. lines up with the top of the air hom casting.
31. Install pump return spring in pump well. 5. Install TPS actuator plunger in the seal. d. Subtract gauge UP dimension, found in
32. Install pump plunger assembly in pump Step b, from gage DOWN dimension, found in
6. Carefplly lower the air horn assembly onto
well. Step c, and record the difference in inches.
the float bdwl while positioning the TPS
33. Holding down on pump plunger This difference in dimension is the total
Adjustment Lever over the TPS sensor and
assembly against return spring tension, install air solenoid plunger travel.
guiding pump plunger stem through the seal in
horn gasket by aligning pump plunger stem with the air horn casting. To ease installation, insert a fe. Insert Tool J-28696-10, BT—7928, or
hole in gasket, and aligning holes in gasket over thin screwdriver between the air horn gasket and equivalent, in the access hole in the air hom,
TPS plunger, solenoid plunger return spring float bowl to raise the TPS Adjustment Lever, and adjust the rich mixture stop screw to
metering rods, solenoid attaching screw and positioning it over the TPS sensor. obtain V32 in. total solenoid plunger travel.
electrical connector. Position gasket over the 13. With the solenoid plunger travel
7. Make sure that the bleed tubes and
two dowel locating pins on the float bowl. correctly set, install the plugs supplied in the
accelerating well tubes are positioned properly
34. Holding down on air horn gasket and through the holes in the air horn gasket. Do not service kit into the air hom to retain the setting
pump plunger assembly, install the solenoid¬ force the air horn assembly onto the bowl, but and prevent fuel vapor loss:
metering rod plunger in the solenoid, aligning a. Install the plug, hollow end down, into
lower it lightly into place over the two dowel
slot in end of plunger with solenoid attaching the access hole to the lean mixture (solenoid)
locating pins.
screw. Be sure plunger arms engage top of each screw and use a suitably sized punch to drive
8. Install two long air horn screws and
metering. the plug into the air hom until top of plug is
lockwashers, nine short screws and
35. If a service replacement Mixture Control even with the lower edge of the hole chamber.
lockwashers and two countersunk screws
Solenoid package is installed, the solenoid and located next to the carburetor venturi area. Install b. In a similar manner, install the plug
plunger MUST be installed as a matched set. secondary air baffle beneath the No. 3 and 4 over the rich mixture screw access hole and
screws. Tighten all screws evenly and securely. drive the plug into place so that the tip of the
AIR HORN ASSEMBLY
plug is V16 in. below the surface of the air hom
1. If removed, install TPS adjustment screw 9. Install air valve rod into slot in the lever on
casting.
in air horn using Tool J-28696-10, BT-7967A, the end of the air valve shaft. Install the other end
of the rod in hole in front vacuum break plunger. 14. Install the Idle Air Bleed Valve as follows:
or equivalent. Final adjustment of the Throttle
Install front vacuum break and bracket assembly a. Lightly coat two new O-ring seals with
Position Sensor is made on the vehicle.
on the air horn, using two attaching screws. automatic transmission fluid, to aid in their
2. Inspect the air valve shaft pin for
Tighten screw securely. Connect pump link to installation on the idle air bleed valve body.
lubrication. Apply a liberal quantity of lithium
The thick seal goes in the upper groove and
base grease to the air valve shaft pin, especially pump lever and install retainer.
the thin seal goes in the lower groove.
in the area contacted by the air valve spring.
5-22 FUEL SYSTEM

brake and on the tube on the float bowl.

18. Position the idle speed solenoid and
FIG.94 Installing the air bleed valve special gauging tool - E2ME shown bracket assembly on the float bowl, retaining
it with two large countersunk screws.
19. Perform the Choke Rod-Fast Idle Cam
Adjustment, Primary (Front) Vacuum Break
Adjustment, Air Valve Rod Adjustment-Front,
Unloader Adjustment and the Secondary
Lockout Adjustment as previously described.
20. Reinstall the carburetor on the vehicle
with a new flange gasket.

Carburetor Adjustments

PRELIMINARY CHECKS

The following should be observed before

attempting any adjustments.
1. Thoroughly warm the engine. If the engine
is cold, be sure that it reaches operating
temperature.
2. Check the torque of all carburetor
mounting nuts and assembly screws. Also
b. Install the idle air bleed valve in the air 16. Install the cover and coil assembly in check the intake manifold-to-cylinder head bolts.
horn, making sure that there is proper thread the choke housing, as follows: If air is leaking at any of these points, any
engagement. a. Place the cam follower on the highest attempts at adjustment will inevitably lead to
c. Insert idle air bleed valve gaging Tool step of the fast idle cam. frustration.
J—33815—2, BT-8353B, or equivalent, in b. Install the thermostatic cover and coil 3. Check the manifold heat control valve (if
throttle side D-shaped vent hole of the air horn assembly in the choke housing, making sure used) to be sure that it is free.
casting. The upper end of the tool should be the coil tang engages the inside coil pickup 4. Check and adjust the choke as necessary.
positioned over the open cavity next to the idle lever. Ground contact for the electric choke is 5. Adjust the idle speed and mixture. If the
air bleed valve. provided by a metal plate located at the rear of mixture screws are capped, don’t adjust them
d. Hold the gauging tool down lightly so the choke cover assembly. DO NOT install a unless all other causes of rough idle have been
that the solenoid plunger is against the choke cover gasket between the electric eliminated. If any adjustments are performed that
solenoid stop, then adjust the idle air bleed choke assembly and the choke housing. might possible change the idle speed or mixture,
valve so that the gauging tool will pivot over c. A choke cover retainer kit is required to adjust the idle and mixture again when you are
and just contact the top of the valve. attach the choke cover to the choke housing. finished.
e. Remove the gauging tool. Follow the instructions found in the kit and Before you make any carburetor adjustments
f. The final adjustment of the idle air bleed install the proper retainer and rivets using a make sure that the engine is in tune. Many
valve is made on the vehicle to obtain idle suitable blind rivet tool. problems which are thought to be carburetor
mixture control. d. It may be necessary to use an adapter related can be traced to an engine which is
15. Perform the Air Valve Spring (tube) if the installing tool interferes with the simply out-of-tune. Any trouble in these areas
Adjustment and Choke coil Lever Adjustment electrical connector tower on the choke cover. will have symptoms like those of carburetor
as previously described. 17. Install the hose on the front vacuum problems.
 FUEL SYSTEM 5-23

AIR HORN PARTS

Mixture control solenoid
Screw—M/C solenoid (3)
Gasket—M/C solenoid
Spacer—M/C solenoid
Seal—M/C solenoid
Retainer—M/C solenoid seal
7. Air horn assembly
8. Gasket—air horn
9. Screw—air horn—short (2)
0. Screw—air horn—long (3)
1. Screw—air horn—large
2. Vent stack
3. Screw—vent stack (2)
4. Seal—pump plunger
5. Retainer—pump plunger seal
6. Seal—T.P.S. plunger
7. Retainer—T.P.S. plunger seal
8. Plunger—T.P.S.
(throttle position sensor)

CHOKE PARTS
19. Vacuum break and bracket assembly—primary
20. Hose—vacuum break connection
21. Tee—vacuum break connecting
22. Solenoid—idle speed
23. Retainer—idle speed solenoid
XT 24. Nut—idle speed solenoid
FLOAT BOWL PARTS 25. Screw—vacuum break bracket attaching
42. Nut—fuel inlet THROTTLE BODY PARTS 26. Link—air valve
43. Gasket—fuel inlet nut 60. Clip—pump rod 27. Bushing—air valve link
44. Filter—fule inlet 61. Pump rod 28. Retainer—air valve link
46. Spring—fuel filter 62. Throttle body assembly 29. Link—fast idle cam
46. Float assembly 63. Clip—cam screw 30. Hose—vacuum break
47. Hinge pin—float 64. Screw—fast idle cam 31. Intermediate choke shaft/lever/link assembly
48. Insert—float bowl 65. Idle needle and spring 32. Bushing—intermediate choke link
49. Needle and seat assembly 66. Screw—throttle body attaching 33. Retainer—intermediate choke link
50. Spring—pump return 67. Screw—vacuum break bracket 34. Vacuum break and bracket assembly—secon
51. Pump—assembly attaching (new)
dary
52. Metering jet 68. Screw—idle stop
35. Screw—vacuum break attaching (2)
53. Retainer—pump spring and check ball 69. Spring—idle stop screw
36. Choke—cover and coil assembly
54. Spring—pump check bali 70. Gasket—intake manifold
37. Screw—choke lever attaching
55. Ball—pump check 38. Choke lever and contract assembly
56. Spring—T.P.S. 39. Choke housing
57. T.P.S.—(throttle position sensor) 40. Screw—choke housing attaching (2)
58. Float bowl assembly 41. Stat cover retainer kit
59. Gasket—float bowl

FIG.37 Exploded view of the E2SE carburetor

5-24 FUEL SYSTEM
E2SE CARBURETOR SPECIFICATIONS
Fast Choke Air Primary Secondary
Float Idle Coil Valve Vacuum Vacuum Choke
Carburetor Level Cam Lever Rod Break Break Unloader
Year Identification (in.) (deg.) (in.) (deg.) (deg.) (deg.) (deg.)
1982 17082196 5/l6 18° .096 — 21° 19° 27°
17082316 Va 17° .090 10 26° 34° 35°
17082317 V4 17° .090 10 29° 35° 35°
17082320 V4 25° .142 10 30° 35° 33°
17082321 V4 25° .142 10 29° 35° 35°
17082640 V4 17° .090 10 26° 34° 35°
17082641 Va 17° .090 10 29° 35° 35°
17082642 Va 25° .142 10 30° 35° 33°

CO
0
0
1983 17083356 13/32 22° .085 1° 25° 35°
17083357 13/32 22° .085 1° 25° 35° 30°

CO
O
O
17083358 13/32 22° .085 1° 25° 35°

co
0
0
17083359 13/32 22° .085 1° 25° 35°

CO
0
0
17083368 Vs 22° .085 1° 25° 35°
17083370 Ve 22° .085 1° 25° 35° 30°
17083450 V8 28° .085 1° 27° 35° 45°
17083451 V8 28° .085 1° 27° 35° 45°
17083452 Vs 28° .085 1° 27° 35° 45°
17083453 Vs 28° .085 1° 27° 35° 45°
17083454 Vs 28° .085 1° 27° 35° 45°
17083455 V8 28° .085 1° 27° 35° 45°
17083456 V8 28° .085 1° 27° 35° 45°
17083630 V4 28° .085 1° 27° 35° 45°
17083631 V4 28° .085 1° 27° 35° 45°
17083632 V4 28° .085 1° 27° 35° 45°
17083633 V4 28° .085 1° 27° 35° 45°
17083634 V4 28° .085 1° 27° 35° 45°
17083635 V4 28° .085 1° 27° 35° 45°
17083636 V4 28° .085 1° 27° 35° 45°
17083650 Vs 28° .085 1° 27° 35° 45°
1984 17072683 %2 28° .085 1° 25° 35° 45°
17074812 9/32 28° .085 1° 25° 35° 45°
17084356 %2 22° .085 1° 25° 30° 30°
17084357 %2 22° .085 1° 25° 30° 30°
17084358 %2 22° .085 1° 25° 30° 30°
0
co
0

17084359 9/32 22° .085 1° 25° 30°

17084368 Vs 22° .085 1° 25° 30° 30°
17084370 V8 22° .085 1° 25° 30° 30°
CO
OO
O

17084430 1V32 15° .085 1° 26° 42°

 FUEL SYSTEM 5-25
E2SE CARBURETOR SPECIFICATIONS
Fast Choke Air Primary Secondary
Float Idle Coil Valve Vacuum Vacuum Choke
Carburetor Level Cam Lever Rod Break Break Unloader
Year Identification (in.) (deg.) (in.) (deg.) (deg.) (deg.) (deg.)
1984

C\J
CO
O

co
00
0
17084431 1V32 15° .085 1° 42°
17084434 1V32 15° .085 1° 26° 38° 42°
17084435 1V32 15° .085 1° 26° 38° 42°
17084452 %2 28° .085 1° 25° 35° 45°
17084453 5/32 28° .085 1° 25° 35° 45°
17084455 %2 28° .085 1° 25° 35° 45°
17084456 %2 28° .085 1° 25° 35° 45°
17084458 5/32 28° .085 1° 25° 35° 45°
17084532 5/32 28° .085 1° 25° 35° 45°
17084534 %2 28° .085 1° 25° 35° 45°
17084535 %2 28° .085 1° 25° 35° 45°
17084537 %2 28° .085 1° 25° 35° 45°
17084538 %2 - 28° .085 1° 25° 35° 45°
17084540 5/32 28° .085 1° 25° 35° 45°
17084542 Vs 28° .085 1° 25° 35° 45°
17084632 %2 28° .085 1° 25° 35° 45°
17084633 %2 28° .085 1° 25° 35° 45°
17084635 9/32 28° .085 1° 25° 35° 45°
17084636 %2 28° .085 1° 25° 35° 45°
1985 17084534 5/32 28° .085 1° 25° 35° 45°
17084535 5/32 28° .085 1° 25° 35° 45°
17084540 %2 28° .085 1° 25° 35° 45°
17084542 Vs 28° .085 1° 25° 35° 45°
17085356 Vb 22° .085 1° 25° 30° 30°
17085357 9/32 22° .085 1° 25° 30° 30°
17085358 V8 22° .085 1° 25° 30° 30°
17085359 %2 22° .085 1° 25° 30° 30°
17085368 V8 22° .085 1° 25° 30° 30°
17085369 9/32 22° .085 1° 25° 30° 30°
17085370 V8 22° .085 1° 25° 30° 30°
17085371 %2 22° .085 1° 25° 30° 30°
17085452 %2 28° .085 1° 28° 35° 45°
17085453 5/32 28° .085 1° 28° 35° 45°
17085458 V32 28° .085 1° 28° 35° 45°
1986 17084534 %2 28° .085 1° 25° 35° 45°
17084535 %2 28° .085 1° 25° 35° 45°
17084540 5/32 28° .085 1° 25° 35° 45°
17084542 5/32 28° .085 1° 25° 35° 45°
5-26 FUEL SYSTEM

THROTTLE BODY FUEL INJECTION SYSTEM

Some engines are equipped with throttle body 5. Disconnect all hoses from the tank.
electronic fuel injection. The computer (ECM) is 6. Support the tank on a jack and remove the Throttle Body
in complete control of fuel metering under all retaining strap nuts.
driving conditions. The proper amount of fuel is 7. Lower the tank and remove it.
injected directly into the intake manifold. An 8. Remove the fuel gauge/pump retaining
electric fuel pump located in the fuel tank ring using a spanner wrench such as tool J-
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
maintains a constant fuel pressure between 9 24187.
and 13 psi. This electrical fuel pump is 9. Remove the gauge unit and the pump. 1. Relieve the fuel system pressure as
controlled by an electric fuel pump relay. 10. Installation is the reverse of removal. described above.
The emission section of the book contains Always replace the 0-ring under the gauge/pump 2. Remove the air cleaner.
detailed descriptions of this system its function retaining ring. 3. Disconnect all wiring from the unit.
and its testing. This section will just deal with the
4. Disconnect the linkage from the unit.
component replacement and adjustment
procedures for your throttle body injection
TESTING THE FUEL PUMP 5. Mark and disconnect the vacuum lines
from the unit.
components. If your car has several fuel
6. Follow the CAUTION under the fuel
injectors located at the head or in the intake
Pressure Test Pressure Test above, then disconnect the fuel
manifold, your car have multi-port injection. The
feed and return lines from the unit.
multi-port injected cars are cover later in this 1. Relive the fuel system pressure. 7. Unbolt and remove the unit.
section. 2. On TBI equipped engines, disconnect the 8. Installation is the reverse of removal.
fuel line from the EFI, then connect the fuel line Torque the TBI attaching bolts to 10-15 ft.
to a pressure gauge. lbs.; the fuel lines to 19 ft. lbs.
Electric Fuel Pump If the system Is equipped with a
fuel return hose, squeeze It off so
The electric fuel pumps are attached to the
that an accurate reading can be
fuel sending unit, which is located in the fuel
obtained.
tank.
3. On the TBI equipped engines, connect a
jumper wire from the positive battery terminal to
❖❖ CAUTION the G terminal of the ALCL unit or on the
carbureted engines, start the engine, then check
Before opening any part of the fuel
the fuel pressure.
system, the pressure must be
4. The fuel pressure on the TBI unit is 9-13
relieved. Follow the procedure
psi.
below to relieve the pressure:
If the pressures do not Indicate
correctly, check the fuel line for
restrictions or the pump for
malfunctions.
RELIEVING THE FUEL
SYSTEM PRESSURE Volume Test
This test should be completed after the
pressure test has been performed.
1. Remove the fuel pump fuse from the fuse
1. Disconnect the pressure gauge from the
panel.
fuel line and connect a flexible tube from the fuel
2. Start the engine and let it run until all fuel in
line to an unbreakable container.
the line is used.
3. Crank the starter an additional three If the engine Is equipped with a
seconds to relieve any residual pressure. fuel return line, squeeze off the line
4. With the ignition OFF, replace the fuse. to obtain an accurate reading.
2. Connect a jumper wire from the positive
battery cable to the G terminal of the ALCL unit.
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 3. In 15 seconds, the fuel pump should
supply V2 pint of fuel.
1. Relieve fuel system pressure. If the fuel volume Is below
2. Drain the fuel tank. minimum, check the fuel line for
3. Disconnect wiring from the tank. restrictions.
4. Remove the ground wire retaining screw 4. After testing, reconnect the fuel line to the
from under the body. EFI unit.
 FUEL SYSTEM 5-27
Injector

REPLACEMENT

t SEE FIGS. 19 to 24
1. Relieve fuel system pressure as described
above.
2. Remove the air cleaner.
3. Disconnect the injector by squeezing the
two tabs together and pulling straight up.
4. Remove the fuel meter cover by removing
the five attaching bolts; note the positions of the
two short bolts.

** CAUTION
Do not remove the four screws
securing the pressure regulator to 1. Bolt
the meter cover. The pressure 2. TBI unit
regulator includes a large spring 3. Gasket must be
installed with stripe
under heavy tension.
facing up
4. Engine intake
manifold
5. Using a small pliers, grasp the center
collar of the injector, between the terminals and FIG.19 Model 220 TBI unit
remove it with a gentle, upward, twisting motion.
6. Installation is the reverse of removal.
Always use new 0-ring coated with clean
automatic transmission fluid. Make sure all 0-
rings and steel washers are properly located.
Make sure that the injector is fully seated with its
locating lug mated with its notch and the
electrical terminals parallel with the throttle shaft
in the throttle body. Apply thread compound to
the first three threads of the fuel meter cover
bolts.

Idle Air Control (IAC)

Valve
1. Fuel meter cover gasket
2. Removing fuel injector

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION FIG.20 Removing the fuel injector from the
model 220 TBI
1. Remove the air cleaner.
2. Disconnect the electrical connection from
the idle air control assembly.
3. Remove the idle air control assembly from
the throttle body.
5-28 FUEL SYSTEM

(T) FROM TOP, PRICK PUNCH

^ OVER CENTER LINE OF
THROTTLE STOP SCREW
PRICK PUNCH AS INDICATED.

PLUG

THROTTLE LEVER
STOP
DRILL 5/32" DIA. HOLE THRU
THROTTLE STOP CASTING TO HARDENED PLUG.
SCREW

(5) PUNCH
USING 1/16" DIA. PUNCH,
THRU BOTTOM OF
DRILLED HOLE TO REMOVE
PLUG.

FIG. 20a Removing the idle top plug

1. Fuel Injector
2. Filter
3. Small “0” ring
1. Fuel meter body
4. Large "0" ring
2. Fuel injector
5. Steel back-up washer
A. Prybar
B. Fulcrum
FIG.21 Exploded view of the model 300 fuel
injector - 2.5L 1985-86 shown FIG.23 Removing the fuel injector from the model 700 TBI unit - 2.5L 1987 and newer
 FUEL SYSTEM 5-29

Top view of injector C. Build date

Part identification D-Year
number E-Oay
Vendor identification F-Month

FIG.24 Model 220 fuel injector part number

location - 2.8L shown

1. Screw & washer assembly

2. Screw & washer assembly
3. Fuel meter cover assembly
4. Gasket—fuel meter cover
5. Gasket—fuel meter outlet
6. Dust seal—pressure regulator
7. Pressure regulator
11. Filter—fuel injector nozzle
12. Lower "O 'nng
13. Upper "O" nng
14. Back-up washer—fuel iniector
20. Screw & washer assembly
21. Fuel meter body assembly
22. Gasket—fuel meter body
23. Gasket—air filter
30. Fuel return line "O" ring
31. Nut—fuel return
32. Gasket—fuel return nut
37. Fuel inlet line "O" nng
38. Nut—fuel inlet
39. Gasket—fuel inlet nut
50. Screw—TPS lever attaching
51 Lever—TPS
52. Screw & washer assembly
55. Retainer—TPS attaching screw
58. Sensor—throttle position
60. Plug—idle stop screw
61. Screw—throttle stop
62. Spring—throttle stop screw
65. Throttle body assembly
70. Gasket—flange mounting
75. Idle air control assembly
76. Gasket—IAC to throttle body

FIG.25 Exploded view of the model 300 TBI unit

5-30 FUEL SYSTEM

1. Air filter gasket 12. Lower fuel injector O- 24. Idle stop screw and
2. Fuel line inlet nut 0- ring washer assembly
ring 13. Injector filter 25. Idle stop screw
3. Fuel line outlet nut 14. Pressure regulator spring
O-ring cover assembly 26. Throttle Position
4. Flange gasket 15. Pressure regulator Sensor (TPS)
5. Fuel meter assembly attaching screw 27. TPS attaching screw
6. Fuel meter body 16. Spring seat and washer
attaching screw and 17. Pressure regulator assembly
washer assembly spring 28. TPS screw
7. Fuel meter body-to- 18. Pressure regulator 29. Idle Air Control Valve
throttle body gasket diaphragm assembly (IAC)
8. Injector retainer 19. Fuel inlet nut 30. IACV attaching screw
screw 20. Fuel nut seal 31. IACV O-ring
9. Injector retainer 21. Fuel inlet nut 32. Tube module
10. Fuel injector 22. Throttle body assembly
11. Upper fuel injector assembly 33. Manifold attaching
O-ring 23. Idle stop screw plug screw
34. Tubes manifold
gasket

FIG.26 Exploded view of the model 700 TBI unit

 FUEL SYSTEM 5-31

t. Screw assembly—fuel meter cover attaching—long

2. Screw assembly—fuel meter cover attaching—short
3. Fuel meter cover assembly
4. Gasket—fuel meter cover
5. Gasket—fuel meter outlet
6. Seal—pressure regulator
7. Pressure regulator
10. Injector—fuel
11. Filter—fuel injector inlet
12. O-ring—fuel injector—lower
13. O-ring—fuel injector—upper
14. Washer—fuel injector
20. Screw assembly—fuel meter body—throttle body at¬
taching
21. Fuel meter body assembly
22. Gasket—throttle body to fuel meter body
23. Gasket—air filter
30. O-ring—fuel return line
31. Nut—fuel outlet
37. O-ring—fuel inlet line
38. Nut—fuel inlet
40. Gasket—fuel outlet nut
41. Gasket—fuel inlet nut
50. Screw—TPS lever attaching
51. Lever—TPS
52. Screw assembly—TPS attaching
55. Retainer—TPS attachingscrew
58. Sensor—throttle position (TPS)
60. Plug—idle stop screw
61. Screw assembly—idle stop
62. Spring—idle stop screw
65. Throttle body assembly
70. Gasket—flange
75. Valve assembly—idle air control (IAC)
76. Gasket—idle air control valve assembly

FIG.27 Exploded view of the model 220 TBI unit

Before Installing a new idle air using IAC/ISC Motor Tester J- 4. Be sure to identify the replacement idle air
control valve, measure the 37027/BT-8256K. It Is control valve and replace with an identical part.
distance that the valve is extended. recommended not to push or pull on The IAC valve pintle shape and diameter are
This measurement should be made the IAC pintle. The force required to designed for specific applications.
from motor housing to end of the move the pintle of a new valve
should not cause damage. Do not Shiny spots on the pintle or seat
cone. The distance should be no
soak the IAC valve In arty liquid are normal and do not Indicate
greater than IVb in. (28mm). If the
cleaner or solvent as damage may misalignment or bend In the shaft.
cone is extended too far damage to
the valve may result. The IAC valve result. 5. Install the new idle air control valve and
pintle may also be retracted by torque the valve to 13 ft. lbs.
5-32 FUEL SYSTEM
Resetting Procedure
1. If a repair has been made, reset the IAC
before retesting.
2. Turn the ignition switch OFF for 10
1. Pressure regulator seconds.
cover
3. Start the engine for 5 seconds.
2. Screw assembly
3. Spring seat 4. Turn the ignition switch OFF for 10
4. Spring seconds.
5. Diaphragm 5. Retest IAC system, as necessary.
6. Fuel meter assembly

FIG.28 Pressure regulator assembly - model 700 Throttle Position Sensor

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

Remove the air cleaner assembly along with the
necessary duct work.
2. Remove the TPS attaching screws. If the
TPS is riveted to the throttle body, it will be
necessary to drill out the rivets.
3. Remove the TPS from the throttle body
assembly.
The throttle position sensor Is an
electrical component and should
not be Immersed In any type of
liquid solvent or cleaner, as
damage may result.
4. With the throttle valve closed, install the
TPS onto the throttle shaft. Rotate the TPS
counterclockwise to align the mounting holes.
Install the retaining screws or rivets. Torque the
retaining screws to 18 inch lbs. (2.0 Nm).
5. Install the air cleaner assembly and
connect the negative battery cable. Perform the
TPS output check and adjust the TPS if
applicable.
A. Distance of pintle
extension
Adjustment
B. Diameter of pintle
C. IAC valve O-ring Not all vehicle provide for this adjustment. All
D. IAC valve attaching b newer vehicles don’t have adjustable throttle
screw
position sensors. If the sensor your car is
equipped with does not have slots at the
FIG.30 Idle air control valve for the model 700 TBI unit mounting screws then its not adjustable.
1. Remove air cleaner. Disconnect the TPS
harness from the TPS.
2. Using suitable jumper wires, connect a
6. Reconnect all electrical connections. use a cleaner that contains methyl
digital voltmeter J-34029-A or equivalent from
7. The base idle will not be correct unit the ethyl ketone. It Is an extremely
the TPS connector center terminal B to the
ECM resets the IAC. strong solvent and not necessary
outside terminal A. A suitable ALDL scanner can
Be sure to clean the IAC valve 0- for this type of deposits. Shiny
also be used to read the TPS output voltage.
spots on the pintle or on the seat
ring sealing surface, pintle valve 3. With the ignition ON and the engine
seat and air passage. Use a are normal and do not indicate a
stopped, The TPS voltage should be less than
suitable carburetor cleaner (be misalignment or a bent pintle shaft. 1.25 volts.
If the air passage has heavy
sure it is safe to use on systems 4. If the reading on the TPS is not within the
deposits, remove the throttle body
equipped with a oxygen sensor) specified range, rotate the TPS until 0.48±.06
and a parts cleaning brush to for a complete cleaning. Replace
volts are obtained. If this specified voltage
the IAC O-ring with a new one.
remove the carbon deposits. Do not cannot be obtained, replace the TPS.
 FUEL SYSTEM 5-33
resistant plug cover the throttle stop screw, the
Throttle position sensor TBI unit must be removed as instructed above, to
Screw & washer
TPS pick up lever
remove the plug.
Screw 4. Remove the throttle valve cable from the
Lever throttle control bracket to allow access to the
Throttle body assembly throttle stop screw.
5. Connect a tachometer to the engine.
6. Start the engine and run it to normal
operating temperature.
7. Install tool J—33047 into the idle air
passage of the throttle body. Be sure that the tool
is fully seated and that no air leaks exist.
8. Using a #20 Torx bit, turn the minimum air
screw until the engine rpm is 675-725 with auto,
trans. or 725-825 with manual trans. The AT
FIG.31 Throttle position sensor for model 3D0 TBI unit should be in Park; the MT in neutral.
9. Stop the engine and remove the special
tool.
10. Install the cable on the throttle body.
11. Use RTV sealant to cover the throttle stop
screw.

1. Fuel meter assembly

2. Throttle body
assembly
3. Throttle position
sensor
4. TPS attaching screw
and washer
assembly

FIG.32 Throttle position sensor for model 700 TBI unit

1. Idle air passage plug (J33047/BT 8207-A
2. Idle air passage

FIG.34 Plug the passage of the throttle body

as shown - 2.5L shown

1. Throttle body 3. Throttle position

assembly sensor-adjustable
2. Throttle position 4. Screw assembly
sensor-non- 5. Retainer
adjustable

FiG.33 Throttle position adjustment may not be possible on some models

5. If the voltage reading is correct, remove Newer models may not provide for this
the voltmeter and jumper wires and reconnect adjustment as the computer is responsible for
the TPS connector to the sensor. Re-install the idle control.
air cleaner.
The following procedure requires
the use of a special tool.
IDLE SPEED ADJUSTMENT 1. Remove the air cleaner and gasket.
2. Plug the vacuum port on the TBI marked
This procedure should be performed only THERMAC.
when the throttle body parts have been replaced. 3. If the car is equipped with a tamper
5-34 FUEL SYSTEM

MULTI PORT FUEL INJECTION

The system is controlled by the ECM which is RELIEVING THE FUEL ring using a spanner wrench such as tool J-
in complete control of the fuel delivery during 24187.
normal driving conditions. For a complete SYSTEM PRESSURE 9. Remove the gauge unit and the pump.
detailed description of operation and system 10. Installation is the reverse of removal.
testing see Section 4 on Emission Systems. This 1. Remove the fuel pump fuse from the fuse Always replace the 0-ring underthe gauge/pump
section contains replacement and adjustment of panel. retaining ring.
components. 2. Start the engine and let it run until all fuel in
The intake manifold functions like that of a the line is used.
diesel, to let air into the engine. The fuel is 3. Crank the starter an additional three TESTING THE FUEL PUMP
injected by separate injectors mounted over the seconds to relieve any residual pressure.
intake valves; the injectors operate on every 4. With the ignition OFF, replace the fuse.
revolution of the crankshaft. Pressure Test
Of the various sensors which receive both
1. Relive the fuel system pressure.
temperature and barometric pressure
information, the Mass Air Flow sensor (mounted
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 2. On MPI equipped engines, disconnect the
fuel line from the EFI, then connect the fuel line
between the air cleaner and the throttle body)
to a pressure gauge.
measures the volume and temperature of the air 1. Relieve fuel system pressure.
moving through the intake manifold. 2. Drain the fuel tank. f* If the system Is equipped with a
3. Disconnect wiring from the tank. fuel return hose, squeeze It off so
4. Remove the ground wire retaining screw that an accurate reading can be
« CAUTION from under the body. obtained.
Before opening any part of the fuel 5. Disconnect all hoses from the tank. 3. On the MPI equipped engines, connect a
system, the pressure must be 6. Support the tank on a jack and remove the jumper wire from the positive battery terminal to
relieved. Follow the procedure retaining strap nuts. the G terminal of the ALCL unit or on the
below to relieve the pressure: 7. Lower the tank and remove it. carbureted engines, start the engine, then check
8. Remove the fuel gauge/pump retaining the fuel pressure.

The fuel pressure release fitting is located at

the top rear of the fuel injection rail.
1. Remove the cap from the pressure release
fitting, then connect a flexible tube to the fitting CNOCAP
USCMILT
FUEL
and place the other end in an unbreakable OUT
container.
p* Place a shop towel around the
fitting to collect any excess fuel
from spilling. END CAP
ASSEMBLY-
2. Open the pressure release fitting and bleed
off the fuel, then close the fitting.
ELECTRIC
MOTOR
ASSEMBLY-
Electric Fuel Pump
The electric fuel pumps are attached to the HIGH PRESSURE
fuel sending unit, which is located in the fuel PUMP MOOULE-
tank. VAPOR SEPARATOR
ASSEMBLY-

» CAUTION
Before opening any part of the fuel FUEL VAPOR
IN OUT
system, the pressure must be SMELL-
relieved. Follow the procedure
below to relieve the pressure:

FIG.38 Exploded view of a roller vane fuel pump assembly

 FUEL SYSTEM 5-35
4. The fuel pressure should be about 34-46
psl.
p* If the pressures do not Indicate
correctly, check the fuel line for
restrictions or the pump for
malfunctions.
Volume Test
This test should be completed after the
pressure test has been performed.
1. Disconnect the pressure gauge from the
fuel line and connect a flexible tube from the fuel
line to an unbreakable container.
If the engine Is equipped with a
fuel return line, squeeze off the line
to obtain an accurate reading.
2. Connect a jumper wire from the positive
battery cable to the G terminal of the ALCL unit.
3. In 15 seconds, the fuel pump should
supply V2 pint of fuel.
p* If the fuel volume Is below FIG.39 Location of throttle body connections
minimum, check the fuel line for
restrictions.
4. After testing, reconnect the fuel line to the 1. Flange gasket
2. Throttle body assembly
EFI unit. 3. Idle stop screw plug
4. Idle stop screw
assembly
5. Idle stop screw
Throttle Body assembly spring
6. Throttle position sensor
The throttle body is located at the front of the (TPS)
engine and is attached to the intake plenum. 7. TPS attaching screw
assembly
8. TPS attaching screw
retainer
9. TPS lever
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 10. Coolant cavity cover
11. Coolant cover attaching
screw assembly
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Drain the coolant from the cooling system
until the level is below the throttle body.
3. Remove the air inlet duct, the vacuum
hoses and the coolant hoses from the throttle
body.
4. Remove the Idle Air Control (IAC) and the
Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) electrical
connectors from the throttle body.
5. Remove the throttle and the cruise control
12. Coolant cover to throttle
(if equipped) cables. body O-ring
6. Remove the mounting bolts and the throttle 13. Idle air/vacuum signal
body. housing assembly
14. Idle air/vacuum signal
7. To install, reverse the removal procedures assembly screw
and refill the cooling system. assembly
15. Idle air/vacuum signal
assembly long screw 17. Idle Air Control (IAC)
assembly valve assembly
Plenum 16. Idle air/vacuum signal 18. IAC valve assembly
assembly gasket gasket
The Plenum is the top portion of the intake
manifold. This portion must be removed before
servicing the injector system. FIG.40 Exploded view of a multi-port throttle body - 3.8L engine shown
5-36 FUEL SYSTEM

FIG.42 Fuel rail with cold start Injector

2. Fuel rail assembly

3. Gasket
4. Plenum
FIG.41 Exploded view a a multi-port plenum,
fuel rail and intake assembly
 FUEL SYSTEM 5-37
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 16. Turn the ignition switch to the ON 15. Install the throttle cable bracket bolt.
position for 2 seconds, then turn to the OFF 16. Connect the vacuum harness connector
position for 10 seconds. Again, turn the ignition to the throttle body.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. switch to the ON position and check for fuel 17. Connect the air inlet duct to the throttle
2. Tag and disconnect the vacuum lines. leaks. body and crankcase vent pipe to the valve cover
3. Remove the EGR to plenum nuts. 17. Disconnect the negative battery cable. grommet.
4. Remove the two throttle body bolts. 18. Install the intake manifold plenum. 18. Connect the negative battery cable.
5. Remove the throttle cable bracket bolts. 19. Tighten the fuel filler cap. 19. With the ignition switch in the OFF
6. Remove the ignition wire plastic shield 20. Connect the negative battery cable. position, ensure that the movement of the
bolts. 21. If equipped with the 3.1 L (V1N T) engine, accelerator is free.
7. Remove the plenum bolts. perform the idle Learn Procedure. 20. Perform Idle Learn Procedure.
8. Remove the plenum and gaskets from the
engine.
9. To install reverse steps 1 through 8.
Intake Plenum and Fuel Injectors
Torque the plenum bolts to 16 ft lbs.
Runners
Fuel Rail REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 2. Relieve fuel system pressure.
This is a special procedure for 3. Remove the intake plenum and, if
cars equipped with the 3.1 L (VIN equipped, remove the runners.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. T) Engine. 4. Refer to the Fuel Rail, Removal and
2. Relieve the fuel system pressure. Installation procedures in this section and
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
3. Remove the intake manifold plenum, as 2. Remove the air inlet duct at the throttle remove the fuel rail.
required. body and crankcase vent pipe at the valve cover 5. Rotate the injector retaining clip to the
4. Disconnect the fuel feed and return lines at release position.
grommet.
the fuel rail. Use a backup wrench, as required, 3. Disconnect the vacuum harness connector 6. Remove the injector from the fuel rail
to support the fuel rail tube fittings. from the throttle body. assembly.
5. Remove the fuel line O-rings and discard. 4. Remove the throttle cable bracket bolt. 7. Remove the 0-rings from both ends of the
6. Disconnect the vacuum line at the pressure 5. Remove the throttle body attaching bolts. injector and discard.
regulator, as required. Remove the throttle body and gasket. Discard To install:
7. Disconnect the fuel injector electrical the gasket. When replacing fuel Injectors, be
connectors. 6. Remove the EGR transfer tube-to-plenum sure the new injector Is the same
8. Remove the fuel rail attaching bolts. bolts. Remove the EGR transfer tube and gasket. part number as the one removed
Remove the fuel rail assembly. Note the location Discard the gasket from the engine.
and routing of vacuum hoses around the fuel rail 7. Remove the air conditioning compressor-
before removing the rail. 8. Lubricate new injector 0-rings with engine
to-plenum bracket attaching hardware. Remove oil and install on the injectors.
9. Remove the injector 0-ring seal from the the bracket.
spray tip end of each injector. Discard the 0- 8. Remove the plenum bolts and studs.
rings. Remove the plenum and gaskets. Discard the
To install: gaskets.
10. Lubricate new injector 0-ring seals with To install:
engine oil and install on the spray tip end of each
injector. Use care in cleaning old gasket
11. Install the fuel rail assembly into the material from machined aluminum
intake manifold. Tilt the rail assembly to install surfaces. Sharp tool may damage
the injectors. Install the fuel rail attaching bolts gasket surfaces.
and fuel rail bracket bolts. Tighten fuel rail 9. Carefully, remove old gasket material from
attaching bolts. gasket sealing surfaces.
12. Connect the injector electrical 10. Install new plenum gaskets.
connectors. Rotate the injectors, as required, to 11. Install the plenum. Install the plenum
prevent stretching the wire harness. bolts and studs. Tighten to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).
13. If disconnected, connect the vacuum line 12. Install the air conditioning compressor-to-
to the pressure regulator. plenum bracket and attaching hardware. 85 INJECTOR • PORT
14. Install new 0-rings on the fuel feed and 13. Install the EGR transfer tube with a new 87 CLIP-INJECTOR RETAINER
return lines. Connect the fuel lines. gasket. Install the EGR transfer tube bolts.
15. Temporarily, connect the negative battery 14. Install a new throttle body gasket. Install FIG. 43a Fuel injector installation
cable. the throttle body and attaching bolts.
5-38 FUEL SYSTEM
9. If new injector retainers are supplied in the
kit, install on the injector.
10. Install injector into fuel rail injector socket
with the electrical connectors facing out.
11. Rotate the injector clip to the locked
position.
12. Install the fuel rail assembly.
13. Check for fuel leaks by performing the
following:
a. Temporarily connect the negative
battery cable.
b. Turn the ignition switch to the ON
position for 2 seconds. Turn the ignition
switch to the OFF position for 10 seconds.
Again turn the ignition switch to the ON
position and check for fuel leaks.
c. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
14. Install the plenum assembly.
15. Tighten the fuel filler cap. 1. Throttle body assembly
2. Gasket 4. Screw (4)
16. Connect the negative battery cable. 3. Idle air housing 5. Gasket
assembly 6. IAC valve

Idle Air Control Valve

FIG.46 Idle air control valve and housing assembly - 3.8L engine
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
The idle air control valve is mounted to the
throttle body and controls the bypass air around
the throttle plate; it is used to control the engine
idle speed, to prevent stalls due to changes in
the engine load.
1. Remove the electrical connector from the
Idle Air Control (IAC) valve assembly.
2. Unscrew the IAC from the throttle body
and discard the gasket.
Do not remove the thread locking
compound from the threads.
3. To install, use a new gasket and reverse
the removal procedures.

Cold Start Valve

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

The cold start valve (not controlled by the

SINGLE TAPER VALVE DUAL TAPER VALVE ECM) provides additional fuel during the starting
mode to improve cold start ups.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove the IAC pipe and the engine
mount strut brace.
3. Remove the fuel line from the fuel rail, the
electrical connector from the valve and the valve
retaining bolt.
BLUNT PINTLE 4. Pull the cold start valve from the fuel rail.
FIG.45 There are three types of idle air control valves 5. To install, use new 0-rings and reverse
steps 1 through 4.
 FUEL SYSTEM 5-39
100 VALVE • COLO START Mass Air Flow Sensor
101 TUBE ANO BODY ASSEMBLY
102 O-RING SEAL • VALVE
101 O-RING SEAL - BODY
104 O-RING SEAL • TUBE
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
-Z—

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Disconnect the electrical connector at the
MAF.
FIG.47 Cold start valve assembly 3. Loosen the clamps on the air inlet ducts.
4. Remove the air inlet ducts and remove the
MAF sensor.
4. Remove the TPS and, if equipped, TPS 5. Installation is just the reverse of the above
seal from the throttle body. steps. Take note that this is an expensive and
To Install: fragile sensor. If it was defective try and find the
5. Place the TPS in position. Align the TPS cause so the new one will not be damaged by the
lever with the TPS drive lever on the throttle same problem, espically no air filter, broken
body. screen, defective charging system, etc.
6. Install the 2 TPS mounting screws.
7. Connect the electrical connector.
8. Connect the negative battery cable.

ADJUSTMENT

Cold Start Valve Assembly

This procedure is to be performed ONLY when
installing the Cold Start Valve Assembly.
1. Turn the cold start valve completely into PH THROTTLE BODY ASM.
the body, until it seats. f~2~l THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR (TPS)
2. Back out the valve one complete turn, until l~3~l RETAINER (2)
the electrical connector is at the top. FT] SCREW (2) 2 N-m (18 IN. LBS.)
3. Bend the body tang forward to limit the
rotation to less than a full turn. FIG.48 Throttle position sensor assembly - adjustable type with slots
4. Coat the new O-ring with engine oil and
install it into the fuel rail.

Throttle Position Sensor

(TPS)

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Disconnect the TPS electrical connector.
3. Remove the 2 mounting screws.
 5-40 FUEL SYSTEM
12. Remove tool J—37089 or equivalent.
13. Place tool J-37089 or equivalent, on the
harmonic balancer and turn. If any vane of the
harmonic balancer touches the tool, replace the
balancer assembly.
A clearance of 0.025 In.
(0.635mm) Is required on either
side of the interrupter ring. Be
certain to obtain the correct
clearance. Failure to do so will
damage the sensor. A mlsadjusted
sensor of bent Interrupter ring
could cause rubbing of the sensor,
resulting In potential driveability
problems, such as rough Idle, poor
performance, or a no start
condition.
14. Install the balancer on the crankshaft.
Install the balancer retaining bolt. Tighten and
torque the retaining bolt to 200-239 ft lbs. (270-
325 Nm).
FIG.50 Mass air flow sensor - 3.8L (VIN 3) shown 15. Install the inner fender shield.
16. Install the right front wheel assembly.
Tighten and torque the wheel nuts to 100 ft lbs.
(140 Nm).
Crankshaft Sensor Dual Crank Sensor 17. Lower the vehicle.
18. Install the belt(s).
The ignition and emission sections of the book 19. Reconnect the negative battery cable.
also cover testing and removal and installation
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION and adjustment of many computer controlled
components. Minimum Idle Speed
This is a special procedure for the REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
3.8L (VIN 3) engine.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. ADJUSTMENTS
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Disconnect the electrical connector at the
2. Remove the belt(s) from the crankshaft
sensor. The engine should be at normal operating
pulley.
3. Using a 28mm socket and pull handle, temperature before making this adjustment
3. Raise and support the vehicle safely.
rotate the harmonic balancer until any window in Newer engines do not provide for this
the interrupter is aligned with the crank sensor. 4. Remove the right front wheel and inner
fender access cover. adjustment as the idle is completely computer
4. Loosen the pinch bolt on the sensor controlled. If the computer cannot control the
5. Remove the crankshaft harmonic balancer
pedestal until the sensor is free to slide.
retaining bolt, then remove the harmonic
5. Remove the pedestal to the engine
balancer.
mounting bolts.
6. Disconnect the sensor electrical
6. While manipulating the sensor within the
connector.
pedestal, carefully remove the sensor and
pedestal as a unit. 7. Remove the sensor and pedestal from the
engine block, then separate the sensor from the
To Install:
pedestal.
7. Loosen the pinch bolt on the new sensor
To install:
pedestal until the sensor is free to slide.
8. Loosely install the crankshaft sensor to the
8. Verify that the window in the interrupter is
pedestal.
still in the correct place.
9. Using tool J—37089 or equivalent, position
9. Install the sensor and pedestal as a unit
the sensor with the pedestal attached, on the
while making sure that the interrupter ring is
crankshaft.
aligned within the proper slot.
10. Install the pedestal-to-block retaining
10. Install the pedestal and torque engine
bolts. Tighten and torque to 14-28 ft. lbs. (20—
mounting bolts to 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm).
40 Nm).
11. Torque the pedestal pinch bolt 30-35
inch lbs. (20-40 Nm).
 FUEL SYSTEM 5-41
idle, the most likely cause a detective idle air plug (located on the side of the throttle body) and the automatic transaxle (in Drive) or 650 rpm for
control valve. Test the IAC valve, check the remove it by prying it from the housing. the manual transaxle (in Neutral).
engine mechanical for basic tune-up, vacuum 2. Using a jumper wire, ground the diagnostic 5. Turn the ignition Off and reconnect the IAC
leaks, proper compression and the rest of the lead of the IAC motor. motor lead.
fuel control system. The least likely item bad is 3. Turn on the ignition, DO NOT start the 6. Using a voltmeter, adjust the TPS to 0.55
the computer itself, unless someone has engine and wait for 30 seconds, then disconnect ± 0.1 volt and secure the TPS.
recently working on the computer or the the IAC electrical connector. Remove the 7. Recheck the setting, then start the engine
electrical system. For models that are adjustable diagnostic lead ground lead and start the engine. and check for proper idle operation.
following the following procedures: Allow the system to go to closed loop. 8. Seal the idle stop screw with silicone
1. Using an awl,- pierce the idle stop screw 4. Adjust the idle set screw to 550 rpm for sealer.

DIESEL FUEL SYSTEM

The diesel injection pump is mounted on top

of the engine. It is gear driven by the camshaft
and turns at camshaft speed. A light pressure
rotary pump injects a metered amount of fuel
into each cylinder at the precise time. Fuel
delivery lines are the same length to prevent any
difference in timing, from cylinder to cylinder.
The timing advance is also controlled by the fuel
pump. Engine rpm is controlled by the rotary fuel
metering valve.
The fuel filter is located between the fuel pump
and the injection pump at the left rear of the
engine.
An electric fuel pump is used which is located
at the front of the engine next to the fuel heater.
Excess fuel returns to the tank via the fuel return FIG.54 Fuel pump - diesel
line.
?*■ Because of the exacting nature of 10. Remove the pump. Discard the pump to
the diesel injection system all Injection Pump adapter O-ring.
major repairs should be referred to 11. Installation is the reverse of removal, with
your local GM dealer the following recommendations. Position the
number one cylinder to the firing position. Install
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION a new O-ring, then install the pump fully, seating
Fuel Supply Pump it by hand. If a new or intermediate adapter plate
1. Remove the air cleaner. is used, set the pump at the center slots on the
2. Remove the crankcase ventilation filter and mounting flange. If the original adapter is used
pipes from the valve cover and air crossover. align the pump timing mark and the adapter
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 3. Remove the air crossover and install mark. Torque the pump bolts to 35 ft. lbs.
special cover J-29657 or its equal. Remove the
1. Disconnect the negative battery terminal. fuel lines, filter and fuel pump as an assembly.
2. Remove the air cleaner. Cap all line openings.
3. Unplug the electrical connection. 4. Disconnect the throttle cable. Remove the Injector
4. Using a 1 2 3 4A in. wrench to support the inletreturn spring.
fitting, use a 5 6 7 8 9/s in. wrench to unscrew the inlet5. Remove the throttle and TV detent cables
tube. from the intake manifold brackets.
5. Remove the outlet tube. 6. Disconnect the fuel return line from the REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
6. Installation is the reverse of removal. After injection pump.
the pump has been replaced disconnect the fuel 7. Disconnect the injection line clamps,
line at the filter. Turn the ignition on and bleed the closest to the pump. When the lines are disconnected
8. Disconnect the injection lines from the use a back-up wrench on the upper
lines. If the pump runs with a clicking sound, or
air bubbles show up in the fuel, check the line for pump. Cap all openings. Carefully reposition the injection nozzle hex. It may also be
leaks. Check all connections to be sure they are fuel lines. necessary to jack up the engine to
9. Remove the two bolts retaining the gain access to the back bank of
dry. When the clicking noise disappears, tighten
injection pump. injectors.
the line.
5-42 FUEL SYSTEM
Diesel Idle Speed

ADJUSTMENT

1. Apply the parking brake, then place the

transaxle in Park and block the drive wheels.
(35 FT. LBS.) 2. Start the engine and allow it to reach
operating temperature, then turn it Off.
FIG.56 Fuel injector - diesel
3. Remove the air cleaner cover and the MAP
sensor retainer, then move the MAP sensor (with
the leads and the hoses attached) aside.
Fuel Pump Lines 4. Remove the air cleaner assembly and
install tool J-26996-1 on the intake manifold.
5. Clean the rpm counter on the front cover
and the crankshaft balancer rim. Install the
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION magnetic pickup probe tool J—26925 into the
rpm counter, then connect the power leads to the
battery.
All lines may be removed without moving the
6. If equipped with A/C, disconnect the
injection pump. It is not necessary to use a back¬
compressor clutch lead from the compressor. If
up wrench.
equipped with cruise control, remove the servo
1. Remove the air cleaner.
cable retainer and disconnect the servo throttle
2. Remove the filters and pipes from the
cable from the servo blade.
valve covers and air crossover.
7. Make sure all of the electrical accessories
3. Remove the air crossover. Cap the intake
are turned Off.
manifold with special cover J—29657 or its
1. Remove the fuel injection lines as 8. Start the engine and place the transaxle in
equal.
described below. Drive, then check the slow idle speed reading.
4. Remove the injection pump line clamps.
2. Remove the injector nozzles. 9. Turn Off the engine and unplug the engine
Remove the injection pump lines. Cap open
coolant temperature sensor connector.
When replacing the Injectors, be lines, nozzles and pump fittings. Use a back-up
10. Start the engine and place the transaxle in
sure to use new copper gaskets. wrench on the nozzle hex to prevent a fuel leak.
Drive, then check the fast idle speed (allow the
3. Installation is the reverse of removal. 5. Installation is the reverse of removal.
plunger to extend by opening the throttle slightly.
When reinstalling the injectors special 11. Connect the engine coolant temperature
lubricant (GM part 9985462 or its equal) must sensor connector and recheck and/or reset the
be applied to the nozzle threads. Torque the slow idle speed.
injectors to 25 ft. lbs. Make sure the copper 12. Turn Off the engine and reconnect the A/
gasket is installed on the nozzle. C compressor lead, if equipped.
13. To complete the installation, reverse the
removal procedures.

Diesel Injection Timing

CHECKING

A special diesel timing meter Is

needed to check Injection timing.
There are a few variations of this
meter, but the type desirable here
uses a signal through a glow plug
probe to determine combustion
timing. The meter picks up the
engine speed In RPM and the
crankshaft position from the
crankshaft balancer. This tool Is
 FUEL SYSTEM 5-43
available at automotive supply INJECTION TIMING 5. Move the throttle lever to the wide open
houses and from tool Jobbers, and position and set the angle gauge to 0°.
is the counterpart to a gasoline ADJUSTING
6. Center the bubble in the level, then set the
engine timing light, coupled with a gauge to 49°. Rotate the throttle lever so that the
tachometer. An Intake manifold 1. Shut off the engine. bubble is centered.
cover is also needed. The marks 2. Note the relative position of the marks on 7. Attach a vacuum source to port A and the
on the pump and adapter flange will the pump flange and either the pump vacuum gauge to port B, then apply 22 in.Hg
normally be aligned within 0.050 In. intermediate adapter. vacuum to port A.
(1.27mm).
3. Loosen the nuts or bolts holding the pump 8. Rotate the vacuum valve clockwise until
1. Place the transmission shift lever in Park, to a point where the pump can just be rotated. 10.3-10.9 in.Hg vacuum is obtained.
apply the parking brake and block the rear You may need a wrench with a slight offset to 9. Tighten the vacuum bolts, then remove the
wheels. clear the fuel return line. vacuum source and the gauge.
2. Start the engine and let it run at idle until 4. Rotate the pump to the left to advance the 10. Connect the throttle cable and the TV
fully warm. Shut off the engine. timing and to the right to retard the timing. The cables to the pump throttle lever, then remove
^ If the engine Is not allowed to width of the mark on the intermediate adaptor is the intake manifold screens.
completely warm up, the probe may about 1 2 3 4/3°. Move the pump the amount that is 11. Install the air crossover and the EGR
soot up, causing Incorrect timing needed and tighten the pump retaining nuts to 35 valve pipe assembly to the crossover. Torque the
readings. ft. lbs. bolts to 19 ft. lbs.
5. Start the engine and recheck the timing as
3. Remove the air cleaner assembly and described earlier. Reset the timing if necessary.
carefully install cover J—26996—1. This cover 6. Reset the fast and curb idle speeds. Glow Plugs
over the intake is important. Disconnect the EGR Wild needle fluctuations on the
valve hose. timing meter indicate a cylinder not ^ A burned out Fast Glow glow plug
4. Clean away ail dirt from the engine probe firing properly. Correction of this may bulge then break off and drop
holder (RPM counter) and the crankshaft condition must be made prior to into the pre-chamber when the
balancer rim. adjusting the timing. glow plug Is removed. When this
5. Clean the lens on both ends of the glow 7. If after resetting the timing, the timing occurs the cylinder head must be
plug probe and clean the lens in the photoelectric marks are far apart and the engine still runs removed and the pre-chamber
pickup. Use a tooth pick to scrape the carbon poorly, the dynamic timing could still be off. It is removed from the head to remove
from the combustion chamber side of the glow possible that a malfunctioning cylinder will cause the broken tip. When Installing a
plug probe, then look through the probe to make incorrect timing. If this occurs, it is essential that glow plug, apply lubricant 1052771
sure it’s clean. Cleanliness is crucial for accurate timing be checked in cylinder 1 or 4. If different or equivalent to the threads only
readings. timing exists between cylinders, try both when the engine is equipped with
6. Install the probe into the crankshaft RPM positions to determine which timing works best. aluminum cylinder heads. It Is
counter (probe holder) on the engine front cover. important that the pre-chamber be
7. Remove the glow plug from No. 1 cylinder. fully installed flush to the surface of
Install the glow plug probe in the glow plug the cylinder head. If this Is not
opening, and torque to 8 ft. lbs. Diesel Vacuum done, cylinder head gasket or
8. Set the timing meter offset selector to A piston damage can occur. When
Regulator Valve servicing the right rear glow plugs,
(20).
9. Connect the battery leads, red to positive, it may be necessary to follow the
black to negative. procedures below.
10. Disconnect the two-lead connector at the
generator. ADJUSTMENT
11. Start the engine. Adjust the engine RPM REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
to the speed specified on the emissions control 1. Disconnect the EGR valve pipe assembly
decal. from the air crossover, then remove the air 1. Remove the engine support strut (see
12. Observe the timing reading, then observe crossover. above figure).
it again in 2 minutes. When the readings stabilize 2. Disconnect the throttle cable and the TV 2. Rotate the intermediate steering shaft so
over the 2 minutes intervals, compare that final cable from the pump throttle lever. that the steering gear stub shaft clamp bolt is in
stabilized reading to the one specified on the 3. Loosen the vacuum regulator valve-to- the up position and remove the clamp bolt. Then
emissions control decal. The timing reading will injection pump bolts. disconnect the intermediate shaft from the stub
be an ATDC (After Top Dead Center) reading
4. Install tool BT-7944 or J-26701-15 to the shaft.
when set to specifications. injection pump throttle lever, then place angle
13. Disconnect the timing meter and install gauge tool BT-7704 or J-26701 on the adapter.
the removed glow plug, torquing it to 15 ft. lbs.
14. Connect the generator two-lead If may be necessary to file the tool
connection. so that It can fit on the pump’s
thicker throttle lever.
15. Install the air cleaner assembly and
connect the EGR valve hose.
5-44 FUEL SYSTEM
metal contact will result between the frame and 5. Thread the body mount bolts with retainers
❖❖CAUTION the body. The tube spacer should be in all bolt-in¬ a minimum of three turns into the cage nuts so
Failure to disconnect the body mounts. The insulator and metal washer that the bolts retain cradle movement.
intermediate shaft from the rack should be positioned to prevent contact with the 6. Release the floor jack slowly until the
and pinion stub shaft can result In frame rail. Do not overtighten the body mount; a crossmember contacts the body mount bolt
damage to the steering gear and/or collapsed tube spacer or stripped bolt may retainers. As the jack is being lowered, watch
intermediate shaft. This damage result. and correct any interference with hoses, lines,
can cause loss of steering control Proper clamping by the mount depends on pipes and cables.
which could result in a vehicle clean dry surfaces. If the body mount bolt
crash with possible bodily Injury. doesn’t screw in smoothly, it may be necessary
to run a tap through the cage nut in the body to
❖❖ CAUTION
remove foreign material. Take care to ensure that Do not place your hands between
3. Place a floor jack under the front the tap does not punch through the underbody. the crossmember and body mount
crossmember of the cradle and raise the jack Whenever the body is going to be moved in to remove objects or correct
until the jack just starts to raise the car. relation to the cradle, the intermediate shaft interference while the Jack is
4. Remove the front two body mount bolts should be disconnected from the rack and pinion lowering.
with the lower cushions and retainers. Then steering gear stub shaft. Do not lower the cradle without It
remove the cushions from the bolts. being restrained as possible
The removal of any one body mount requires damage can occur to the body and
the loosening of the adjacent body mounts to ❖❖ CAUTION underhood items.
permit the cradle to separate from the body. Failure to disconnect the
Take care to prevent breaking the plastic fan intermediate shaft from the rack
shroud, or damaging frame attachments such as and pinion steering gear stub shaft 7. Reverse the procedure for installation.
steering hoses and brake pipes, during can result in damage to the Torque the intermediate steering shaft clamp bolt
replacement of body mounts. steering gear and/or intermediate to 46 ft. lbs. and the body mount bolts to 77 ft
When installing a body mount, take care to shaft. This damage can cause loss lbs.
ensure that the body is seated properly in the of steering control which could
frame mounting hole; otherwise, direct metal to result In a vehicle crash with
possible bodily Injury.

FUEL TANK

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION through the fuel feed line (the line to the fuel 6. Disconnect the vent hose.
pump), because of the restrictor in the filler neck. 7. Unbolt the support straps, and lower and
3. Disconnect the hose and the vapor return remove the tank.
1. Disconnect the negative cable at the hose from the level sending unit fittings. 8. To install reverse steps 1 through 7.
battery. Raise and support the car. 4. Remove the ground wire screw.
2. Drain the tank. There is no drain plug; 5. Unplug the level sending unit electrical
remaining fuel in the tank must be siphoned connector. SENDING UNIT
REPLACEMENT

The fuel gauge sending unit is attached to the

fuel pump on cars with an electric intank pump.
The following procedure is for pump and
sending unit removal and installation. If the
vehicle as a pump mounted on the engine the
basic steps will still lead you through sending
unit replacement. Be extremely cautious of
sparks or flame when working around the fuel
pump. NEVER apply battery power to a used fuel
pump out of the fuel tank.
1. Relieve the fuel system pressure, then
disconnect the negative battery cable.
 FUEL SYSTEM 5-45

2. Raise and support the vehicle safely. Drain 10. Install the fuel gauge/pump retaining ring
the fuel tank. using a suitable spanner.
3. Disconnect wiring from the tank, then 11. Raise the tank and and install it to the
remove the ground wire retaining screw from vehicle.
under the body. 12. Support the tank on a jack stand and
4. Disconnect all hoses from the tank. install the retaining strap nuts.
5. Support the tank on a jack and remove the 13. Connect the hoses to the tank.
retaining strap nuts. 14. Connect the electrical connectors and the
6. Lower the tank and remove it from the ground wire, if equipped.
vehicle. 15. Lower the vehicle.
7. Remove the fuel gauge/pump retaining 16. Fill the fuel tank.
ring using a suitable spanner wrench. 17. Turn the ignition switch to the ON
8. Remove the gauge unit and the pump. position for 2 seconds, then turn to the OFF
position for 10 seconds. Turn the ignition switch
To install: back to the ON position and check for fuel
9. Install the gauge unit and the pump. leaks.
 5-46 FUEL SYSTEM

TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
Component U.S. Metric
C3I Ignition module: 19 ft. lbs. 25 Nm
Crankshaft bolt
3.3L engine: 220 ft. lbs. 300 Nm
3.8L engine: 220 ft. lbs. 300 Nm
Crankshaft sensor: 22 ft. lbs. 30 Nm
Dual crank sensor: 22 ft. lbs. 30 Nm
Fuel Line Fittings: 22 ft. lbs. 30 Nm
Fuel rail attaching nuts: 20 ft. lbs. 27 Nm
Fuel Pressure Regulator:
2.5L engine: 22 inch lbs. 2.5 Nm
Except 2.5L engine: 102 inch lbs. 11.5 Nm
Fuel tank straps: 26 ft. lbs. 35 Nm
Idle air control valve:
Screw-in type: 13 ft. lbs. 18 Nm
Retaining screws: 27 inch lbs. 3 Nm
Intake plenum 3.1 L engine: 18 ft. lbs. 25 Nm
Spark plugs:
Except 2.8L carburated 20 ft. lbs. 27 Nm
2.8L carburated 15 ft. lbs. 17 Nm
Throttle position sensor: 18 inch lbs. 2 Nm
TBI components:
Fuel line nuts: 20 ft. lbs. 18 Nm
Idle air control valve: 27 inch lbs. 3 Nm
Injector retainer: 27 inch lbs. 3 Nm
Pressure regulator cover: 21 inch lbs. 2.4 Nm
Throttle body bolts: 18 ft. lbs. 25 Nm
Throttle body bolts: 18 ft. lbs. 25 Nm
Tube module assembly: 27 inch lbs. 3 Nm
AIR CONDITIONING INSTRUMENTS AND SWITCHES
Accumulator 6-22 Cluster 6-54
Blower 6-20 Gauges 6-54
Blower resistor 6-21 Radio 6-34
Compressor 6-19 Speedometer 6-42
Condenser 6-20 LIGHTING
Control panel 6-23 Headlights 6-47
Evaporator 6-21 Signal and marker lights 6-47
Orifice tube 6-22 Marker lights 6-47
BLOWER MOTOR 6-9 RADIO 6-34
SPEEDOMETER CABLE 6-42
CHASSIS ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
SWITCHES
Circuit breakers 6-51
Back-up light 6-46
Fuses 6-50
Headlight 6-44
Fusible links 6-51
Windshield wiper 6-43
Heater and air conditioning 6-9
TRAILER WIRING 6-50
Instrument cluster 6-40
TROUBLESHOOTING
Lighting 6-47
Cruise control 6-33
Windshield wipers 6-36
Gauges 6-54
Control panel 6-23
Headlights 6-53
Cruise control 6-26
Heater 6-56
Evaporator 6-21
Lights 6-53
Flashers 6-51
Turn signals and flashers 6-52
Headlights 6-47
Windshield wipers 6-56
Headlight switch 6-44
WINDSHIELD WIPERS
HEATER
Blower 6-9
Control panel 6-9
Core 6-9
Arm and blade 6-6
Linkage and motor 6-37
Switch 6-43
ELECTRICAL
Troubleshooting 6-39
INSTRUMENT CLUSTER 6-54 WIRING DIAGRAMS 6-58 Circuit Protection 6-50
Cruise Control 6-26
Heating and Air Conditioning 6-9
Instruments and Switches 6-44
Lighting 6-47
Radio 6-34
Troubleshooting Charts 6-52
Understanding Electrical
Systems 6-2
Windshield Wipers 6 36
Wiring Diagrams 6-58
6-2 CHASSIS ELECTRICAL
BASIC ELECTRICITY

At the rate which both import and domestic • NEVER use an external power supply to
manufacturers are incorporating electronic Safety Precautions retain component memory when working on the
control systems into their production lines, it instrument panel or inside the car, if the car is
won’t be long before every new vehicle is equipped with an air bag.
equipped with one or more on-board computer. • Leave electronic components in the
CAUTION
These electronic components (with no moving package until you are ready to install them and
parts) should theoretically last the life of the Whenever working on or around any never touch the connector pins.
vehicle, provided nothing external happens to computer based microprocessor • Touch the metal of the car often when
damage the circuits or memory chips. control system, always observe servicing electronic components to remove and
While it is true that electronic components these general precautions to static charge that may build on your body. This
should never wear out, in the real world prevent the possibility of personal charge will damage electronic components if
malfunctions do occur. It is also true that any injury or damage to electronic you touch them.
computer-based system is extremely sensitive components.
to electrical voltages and cannot tolerate
careless or haphazard testing or service ORGANIZED
procedures. An inexperienced individual can • Never install or remove battery cables with
literally do major damage looking for a minor the key ON or the engine mnning. Jumper cables TROUBLESHOOTING
problem by using the wrong kind of test should be connected with the key OFF to avoid
equipment or connecting test leads or power surges that can damage electronic control
When diagnosing a specific problem,
connectors with the ignition switch ON. When units. Engines equipped with computer
organized troubleshooting is a must. The
selecting test equipment, make sure the controlled systems should avoid both giving and
complexity of a modem automobile demands
manufacturers instructions state that the tester is getting jump starts due to the possibility of
that you approach any problem in a logical,
compatible with whatever type of electronic serious damage to components from arcing in
organized manner. There are certain
control system is being serviced. Read all the engine compartment when connections are
troubleshooting techniques that are standard:
instructions carefully and double check all test made with the ignition ON.
1. Establish when the problem occurs. Does
points before installing probes or making any • Always remove the battery cables before
the problem appear only under certain
test connections. charging the battery. Never use a high output
conditions? Were there any noises, odors, or
The following section outlines basic diagnosis charger on an installed battery or attempt to use
other unusual symptoms?
techniques for dealing with computerized any type of “hot shot” (24 volt) starting aid.
2. Isolate the problem area. To do this, make
automotive control systems. Along with a • Exercise care when inserting test probes
some simple tests and observations; then
general explanation of the various types of test into connectors to insure good connections
without damaging the connector or spreading the eliminate the systems that are working properly.
equipment available to aid in servicing modem Check for obvious problems such as broken
electronic automotive systems, basic repair pins. Always probe connectors from the rear
(wire) side, NOT the pin side, to avoid accidental wires, dirty connections or split or disconnected
techniques for wiring harnesses and connectors vacuum hoses. Always check the obvious before
is given. Read the basic information before shorting of terminals during test procedures.
• Never remove or attach wiring harness assuming something complicated is the cause.
attempting any repairs or testing on any 3. Test for problems systematically to
computerized system, to provide the connectors with the ignition switch ON,
especially to an electronic control unit. determine the cause once the problem area is
background of information necessary to avoid isolated. Are all the components functioning
the most common and obvious mistakes that • Do not drop any components during
service procedures and never apply 12 volts properly? Is there power going to electrical
can cost both time and money. Although the switches and motors? Is there vacuum at
replacement and testing procedures are simple directly to any component (like a solenoid or
vacuum switches and/or actuators? Is there a
in themselves, the systems are not, and unless relay) unless instructed specifically to do so.
Some component electrical windings are mechanical problem such as bent linkage or
one has a thorough understanding of all loose mounting screws? Doing careful,
components and their function within a particular designed to safely handle only 4 or 5 volts and
can be destroyed in seconds if 12 volts are systematic checks will often turn up most
computerized control system, the logical test causes on the first inspection without wasting
sequence these systems demand cannot be applied directly to the connector.
time checking components that have little or no
followed. Minor malfunctions can make a big • Remove the electronic control unit if the
relationship to the problem.
difference, so it is important to know how each vehicle is to be placed in an environment where
temperatures exceed approximately 176°F 4. Test all repairs after the work is done to
component affects the operation of the overall
(80°C), such as a paint spray booth or when arc make sure that the problem is fixed. Some
electronic system to find the ultimate cause of a
or gas welding near the control unit location in causes can be traced to more than one
problem without replacing good components
the car. component, so a careful verification of repair
unnecessarily. It is not enough to use the correct
• When possible use a flashlight instead of a work is important to pick up additional
test equipment; the test equipment must be used
drop light. malfunctions that may cause a problem to
correctly.
reappear or a different problem to arise. A blown
• Do not allow extension cords for power
fuse, for example, is a simple problem that may
tools or drop lights to lie on or across any of the
require more than another fuse to repair. If you
vehicle wiring.
 CHASSIS ELECTRICAL 6-3
don’t look for a problem that caused a fuse to Jumper wires are used primarily to locate wherever necessary with the pick. The pick
blow, for example, a shorted wire may go open electrical circuits, on either the ground (-) should be sharp so that it can penetrate wire
undetected. side of the circuit or on the hot (+) side. If an insulation to make contact with the wire, without
Experience has shown that most problems electrical component fails to operate, connect making a large hole in the insulation. The wrap¬
tend to be the result of a fairly simple and the jumper wire between the component and a around light is handy in hard to reach areas or
obvious cause, such as loose or corroded good ground. If the component operates only where it is difficult to support a wire to push a
connectors or air leaks in the intake system; with the jumper installed, the ground circuit is probe pick into it. To use the wrap around light,
making careful inspection of components during open. If the ground circuit is good, but the hook the wire to probed with the hook and pull
testing essential to quick and accurate component does not operate, the circuit between the trigger. A small pick will be forced through
troubleshooting. Special, hand held the power feed and component is open. You can the wire insulation into the wire core.
computerized testers designed specifically.for sometimes connect the jumper wire directly
diagnosing the EEC-IV system are available from from the battery to the hot terminal of the
a variety of aftermarket sources, as well as from component, but first make sure the component CAUTION
the vehicle manufacturer, but care should be uses 12 volts in operation. Some electrical Do not use a test light to probe
taken that any test equipment being used is components, such as fuel injectors, are electronic Ignition spark plug or
designed to diagnose that particular computer designed to operate on about 4 volts and running coil wires. Never use a pick-type
controlled system accurately without damaging 12 volts directly to the injector terminals can test light to probe wiring on
the control unit (ECU) or components being burn out the wiring. By inserting an inline computer controlled systems
tested. fuseholder between a set of test leads, a fused unless specifically instructed to do
Pinpointing the exact cause of jumper wire can be used for bypassing open so. Any wire insulation that Is
trouble In an electrical system can circuits. Use a 5 amp fuse to provide protection pierced by the test light probe
sometimes only be accomplished against voltage spikes. When in doubt, use a should be taped and sealed with
by the use of special test voltmeter to check the voltage input to the silicone after testing.
equipment. The following component and measure how much voltage is
describes commonly used test being applied normally. By moving the jumper
equipment and explains how to put wire successively back from the lamp toward the Like the jumper wire, the 12 volt test light is
It to best use In diagnosis. In power source, you can isolate the area of the used to isolate opens in circuits. But, whereas
addition to the Information covered circuit where the open is located. When the the jumper wire is used to bypass the open to
below, the manufacturer’s component stops functioning, or the power is cut operate the load, the 12 volt test light is used to
instructions booklet provided with off, the open is in the segment of wire between locate the presence of voltage in a circuit. If the
the tester should be read and the jumper and the point previously tested. test light glows, you know that there is power up
clearly understood before to that point; if the 12 volt test light does not
attempting any test procedures. glow when its probe is inserted into the wire or
CAUTION connector, you know that there is an open circuit
Never use jumpers made from wire (no power). Move the test light in successive
TEST EQUIPMENT that Is of lighter gauge than used In steps back toward the power source until the
the circuit under test. If the jumper light in the handle does glow. When it does glow,
wire is of too small gauge, it may the open is between the probe and point
overheat and possibly melt. Never previously probed.
Jumper Wires
use jumpers to bypass high *+ The test light does not detect that
Jumper wires are simple, yet extremely resistance loads (such as motors) 12 volts (or any particular amount
valuable, pieces of test equipment. Jumper wires in a circuit. Bypassing resistances, of voltage) is present; It only
are merely wires that are used to bypass in effect, creates a short circuit detects that some voltage Is
sections of a circuit. The simplest type of jumper which may, In turn, cause damage present. It is advisable before using
wire is merely a length of multistrand wire with and fire. Never use a Jumper for the test light to touch its terminals
an alligator clip at each end. Jumper wires are anything other than temporary across the battery posts to make
usually fabricated from lengths of standard bypassing of components In a sure the light Is operating properly.
automotive wire and whatever type of connector circuit.
(alligator clip, spade connector or pin connector) Self-Powered Test Light
that is required for the particular vehicle being The self-powered test light usually contains a
tested. The well equipped tool box will have 1.5 volt penlight battery. One type of self-
several different styles of jumper wires in several 12 Volt Test Light
powered test light is similar in design to the 12
different lengths. Some jumper wires are made The 12 volt test light is used to check circuits volt test light. This type has both the battery and
with three or more terminals coming from a and components while electrical current is the light in the handle and pick-type probe tip.
common splice for special purpose testing. In flowing through them. It is used for voltage and The second type has the light toward the open
cramped, hard-to-reach areas it is advisable to ground tests. Twelve volt test lights come in tip, so that the light illuminates the contact point.
have insulated boots over the jumper wire different styles but all have three main parts; a The self-powered test light is dual purpose piece
terminals in order to prevent accidental ground clip, a probe, and a light. The most of test equipment. It can be used to test for either
grounding, sparks, and possible fire, especially commonly used 12 volt test lights have pick- open or short circuits when power is isolated
when testing fuel system components. type probes. To use a 12 volt test light, connect from the circuit (continuity test). A powered test
the ground clip to a good ground and probe light should not be used on any computer
 6-4 CHASSIS ELECTRICAL
controlled system or component unless indicating current flow from one end to the other. the battery’s available voltage under load will
specifically instructed to do so. Many engine Voltmeters usually have various scales on the decrease more severely. For this reason, it is
sensors can be destroyed by even this small meter dial and a selector switch to allow the important that the battery be fully charged during
amount of voltage applied directly to the selection of different voltages. The voltmeter has all testing procedures to avoid errors in
terminals. a positive and a negative lead. To avoid damage diagnosis and incorrect test results.
to the meter, always connect the negative lead to
Open Circuit Testing the negative (-) side of circuit (to ground or Voltage Drop
To U9e the self-powered test light to check for nearest the ground side of the circuit) and When current flows through a resistance, the
open circuits, first isolate the circuit from the connect the positive lead to the positive (+) side voltage beyond the resistance is reduced (the
vehicle’s 12 volt power source by disconnecting of the circuit (to the power source or the nearest larger the current, the greater the reduction in
the battery or wiring harness connector. Connect power source). Note that the negative voltmeter voltage). When no current is flowing, there is no
the test light ground clip to a good ground and lead will always be black and that the positive voltage drop because there is no current flow. All
probe sections of the circuit sequentially with the voltmeter will always be some color other than points in the circuit which are connected to the
test light, (start from either end of the circuit). If black (usually red). Depending on how the power source are at the same voltage as the
the light is out, the open is between the probe voltmeter is connected into the circuit, it has power source. The total voltage drop always
and the circuit ground. If the light is on, the open several uses. equals the total source voltage. In a long circuit
is between the probe and end of the circuit voltmeter can be connected either in parallel with many connectors, a series of small,
toward the power source. or in series with a circuit and it has a very high unwanted voltage drops due to corrosion at the
resistance to current flow. When connected in connectors can add up to a total loss of voltage
Short Circuit Testing parallel, only a small amount of current will flow which impairs the operation of the normal loads
By isolating the circuit both from power and through the voltmeter current path; the rest will in the circuit.
from ground, and using a self-powered test light, flow through the normal circuit current path and
INDIRECT COMPUTATION OF VOLTAGE
you can check for shorts to ground in the circuit. the circuit will work normally. When the
DROPS
Isolate the circuit from power and ground. voltmeter is connected in series with a circuit,
Connect the test light ground clip to a good 1. Set the voltmeter selector switch to the 20
only a small amount of current can flow through
ground and probe any easy-to-reach test point in volt position.
the circuit. The circuit will not work properly, but
the circuit. If the light comes on, there is a short the voltmeter reading will show if the circuit is 2. Connect the meter negative lead to a good
somewhere in the circuit To isolate the short, ground.
complete or not.
probe a test point at either end of the isolated 3. Probe all resistances in the circuit with the
circuit (the light should be on). Leave the test Available Voltage Measurement positive meter lead.
light probe connected and open connectors, Set the voltmeter selector switch to the 20V 4. Operate the circuit in all modes and
switches, remove parts, etc., sequentially, until position and connect the meter negative lead to observe the voltage readings.
the light goes out When the light goes out, the the negative post of the battery. Connect the DIRECT MEASUREMENT OF VOL TAGE
short is between the last circuit component positive meter lead to the positive post of the DROPS
opened and the previous circuit opened. battery and turn the ignition switch ON to provide 1. Set the voltmeter switch to the 20 volt
The 1.S volt battery In the test a load. Read the voltage on the meter or digital position.
light does not provide much display. A well charged battery should register 2. Connect the voltmeter negative lead to the
current. A weak battery may not over 12 volts. If the meter reads below 11.5 ground side of the resistance load to be
provide enough power to Illuminate volts, the battery power may be insufficient to measured.
the test light even when a complete operate the electrical system properly. This test 3. Connect the positive lead to the positive
circuit is made (especially If there determines voltage available from the battery side of the resistance or load to be measured.
are high resistances In the circuit). and should be the first step in any electrical 4. Read the voltage drop directly on the 20
Always make sure that the test trouble diagnosis procedure. Many electrical volt scale.
battery is strong. To check the problems, especially on computer controlled Too high a voltage indicates too high a
battery, briefly touch the ground systems, can be caused by a low state of charge resistance. If, for example, a blower motor runs
clip to the probe; If the light glows in the battery. Excessive corrosion at the battery too slowly, you can determine if there is too high
brightly the battery Is strong cable terminals can cause a poor contact that a resistance in the resistor pack. By taking
enough for testing. Never use a self- will prevent proper charging and full battery voltage drop readings in all parts of the circuit
powered test light to perform current flow. you can isolate the problem. Too low a voltage
checks for opens or shorts when Normal battery voltage is 12 volts when fully drop indicates too low a resistance, if, for
power is applied to the electrical charged. When the battery is supplying current example, a blower motor runs too fast in the
system under test. The 12 volt to one or more circuits it is said to be “under MED and/or LOW position, the problem can be
vehicle power will quickly burn out load”. When everything is off the electrical isolated in the resistor pack by taking voltage
the 1.5 volt light bulb In the test system is under a “no-load” condition. A fully drop readings in all parts of the circuit to locate
light. charged battery may show about 12.5 volts at no a possibly shorted resistor. The maximum
load; will drop to 12 volts under medium load; allowable voltage drop under load is critical,
Voltmeter and will drop even lower under heavy load. If the especially if there is more than one high
A voltmeter is used to measure voltage at any battery is partially discharged the voltage
resistance problem in a circuit because all
point in a circuit, or to measure the voltage drop decrease under heavy load may be excessive, voltage drops are cumulative. A small drop is
across any part of a circuit. It can also be used even though the battery shows 12 volts or more
normal due to the resistance of the conductors.
to check continuity in a wire or circuit by at no load. When allowed to discharge further,
 CHASSIS ELECTRICAL 6-5
HIGH RESISTANCE TESTING ^ When checking diodes or other resistances. Parallel circuit resistances will
1. Set the voltmeter selector switch to the 4 solid state components, the always give a lower reading than the actual
volt position. ohmmeter leads can only be resistance of either of the branches. When
2. Connect the voltmeter positive lead to the connected one way in order to measuring the resistance of parallel circuits, the
positive post of the battery. measure current flow In a single total resistance will always be lower than the
3. Turn on the headlights and heater blower direction. Make sure the positive smallest resistance in the circuit. Connect the
to provide a load. ( + ) and negative {-) terminal meter leads to both sides of the circuit (wire or
4. Probe various points in the circuit with the connections are as described in the component) and read the actual measured ohms
negative voltmeter lead. test procedures to verify the one¬ on the meter scale. Make sure the selector
5. Read the voltage drop on the 4 volt scale. way diode operation. switch is set to the proper ohm scale for the
Some average maximum allowable voltage circuit being tested to avoid misreading the
In using the meter for making continuity
drops are: ohmmeter test value.
checks, do not be concerned with the actual
FUSE PANEL - 7 volts resistance readings. Zero resistance, or any
IGNITION SWITCH - 5 volts resistance readings, indicate continuity in the
HEADLIGHT SWITCH - 7 volts
** WARNING
circuit. Infinite resistance indicates an open in
IGNITION COIL (+) - 5 volts the circuit. A high resistance reading where there Never use an ohmmeter with power
ANY OTHER LOAD - 1.3 volts should be none indicates a problem in the circuit. applied to the circuit. Like the self-
Checks for short circuits are made in the same powered test light, the ohmmeter Is
Voltage drops are all measured
manner as checks for open circuits except that designed to operate on its own
while a load is operating; without
the circuit must be isolated from both power and power supply. The normal 12 volt
current flow, there will be no
normal ground. Infinite resistance indicates no automotive electrical system
voltage drop.
continuity to ground, while zero resistance current could damage the meter!
Ohmmeter indicates a dead short to ground.
The ohmmeter is designed to read resistance RESISTANCE MEASUREMENT
(ohms) in a circuit or component. Although there The batteries in an ohmmeter will weaken with Ammeters
are several different styles of ohmmeters, all will age and temperature, so the ohmmeter must be An ammeter measures the amount of current
usually have a selector switch which permits the calibrated or “zeroed” before taking flowing through a circuit in units called amperes
measurement of different ranges of resistance measurements. To zero the meter, place the or amps. Amperes are units of electron flow
(usually the selector switch allows the selector switch in its lowest range and touch the which indicate how fast the electrons are flowing
multiplication of the meter reading by 10,100, two ohmmeter leads together. Turn the through the circuit. Since Ohms Law dictates
1,000, and 10,000). A calibration knob allows calibration knob until the meter needle is exactly that current flow in a circuit is equal to the circuit
the meter to be set at zero for accurate on zero. voltage divided by the total circuit resistance,
measurement. Since all ohmmeters are powered increasing voltage also increases the current
by an internal battery (usually 9 volts), the All analog (needle) type
ohmmeters must be zeroed before level (amps). Likewise, any decrease in
ohmmeter can be used as a self-powered test
use, but some digital ohmmeter resistance will increase the amount of amps in a
light. When the ohmmeter is connected, current circuit. At normal operating voltage, most
from the ohmmeter flows through the circuit or models are automatically
calibrated when the switch Is circuits have a characteristic amount of
component being tested. Since the ohmmeter’s
turned on. Self-calibrating digital amperes, called “current draw” which can be
internal resistance and voltage are known values, measured using an ammeter. By referring to a
the amount of current flow through the meter ohmmeters do not have an
adjusting knob, but its a good Idea specified current draw rating, measuring the
depends on the resistance of the circuit or
to check for a zero readout before amperes, and comparing the two values, one
component being tested.
use by touching the leads together. can determine what is happening within the
The ohmmeter can be used to perform circuit to aid in diagnosis. An open circuit, for
continuity test for opens or shorts (either by All computer controlled systems
require the use of a digital example, will not allow any current to flow so the
observation of the meter needle or as a self- ammeter reading will be zero. More current
ohmmeter with at least 10
powered test light), and to read actual resistance flows through a heavily loaded circuit or when
meagohms impedance for testing.
in a circuit. It should be noted that the chmmeter the charging system is operating.
is used to check the resistance of a component Before any test procedures are
attempted, make sure the An ammeter is always connected in series
or wire while there is no voltage applied to the
ohmmeter used is compatible with with the circuit being tested. All of the current
circuit. Current flow from an outside voltage
the electrical system or damage to that normally flows through the circuit must also
source (such as the vehicle battery) can damage
the on-board computer could flow through the ammeter; if there is any other
the ohmmeter, so the circuit or component
result. path for the current to follow, the ammeter
should be isolated from the vehicle electrical
reading will not be accurate. The ammeter itself
system before any testing is done. Since the To measure resistance, first isolate the circuit
has very little resistance to current flow and
ohmmeter uses its own voltage source, either from the vehicle power source by disconnecting
therefore will not affect the circuit, but it will
lead can be connected to any test point. the battery cables or the harness connector.
measure current draw only when the circuit is
Make sure the key is OFF when disconnecting closed and electricity is flowing. Excessive
any components or the battery. Where current draw can blow fuses and drain the
necessary, also isolate at least one side of the
battery, while a reduced current draw can cause
circuit to be checked to avoid reading parallel motors to run slowly, lights to dim and other
6-6 CHASSIS ELECTRICAL
components to not operate properly. The that measure various circuit voltage levels on damage and to keep them from becoming a
ammeter can help diagnose these conditions by command to check all system components for confusing tangle, they are organized into
locating the cause of the high or low reading. proper operation. Although these testers usually bundles, enclosed in plastic or taped together
cost about $300-500, consider that the average and called wire harnesses. Different wiring
Multimeters
computer control unit (or ECM) can cost just as harnesses serve different parts of the vehicle.
Different combinations of test meters can be much and the money saved by not replacing Individual wires are color coded to help trace
built into a single unit designed for specific tests. perfectly good sensors or components in an them through a harness where sections are
Some of the more common combination test attempt to correct a problem could justify the hidden from view.
devices are known as Volt/Amp testers, Tach/ purchase price of a special diagnostic tester the A loose or corroded connection or a
Dwell meters, or Digital Multimeters. The Volt/ first time it’s used. replacement wire that is too small for the circuit
Amp tester is used for charging system, starting These computerized testers can allow quick will add extra resistance and an additional
system or battery tests and consists of a and easy test measurements while the engine is voltage drop to the circuit. A ten percent voltage
voltmeter, an ammeter and a variable resistance operating or while the car is being driven. In drop can result in slow or erratic motor
carbon pile. The voltmeter will usually have at addition, the on-board computer memory can be operation, for example, even though the circuit is
least two ranges for use with 6,12 and 24 volt read to access any stored trouble codes; in complete. Automotive wiring or circuit
systems. The ammeter also has more than one effect allowing the computer to tell you where it conductors can be in any one of three forms:
range for testing various levels of battery loads hurts and aid trouble diagnosis by pinpointing 1. Single strand wire
and starter current draw and the carbon pile can exactly which circuit or component is 2. Multistrand wire
be adjusted to offer different amounts of malfunctioning. In the same manner, repairs can 3. Printed circuitry
resistance. The Volt/Amp tester has heavy leads be tested to make sure the problem has been Single strand wire has a solid metal core and
to carry large amounts of current and many later corrected. The biggest advantage these special is usually used inside such components as
models have an inductive ammeter pickup that testers have is their relatively easy hookups that alternators, motors, relays and other devices.
clamps around the wire to simplify test minimize or eliminate the chances of making the Multistrand wire has a core made of many small
connections. On some models, the ammeter wrong connections and getting false voltage strands of wire twisted together into a single
also has a zero-center scale to allow testing of readings or damaging the computer accidentally. conductor. Most of the wiring in an automotive
charging and starting systems without switching
It should be remembered that electrical system is made up of multistrand wire,
leads or polarity. A digital multimeter is a
these testers check voltage levels either as a single conductor or grouped together
voltmeter, ammeter and ohmmeter combined in
in circuits; they don’t detect in a harness. All wiring is color coded on the
an instmment which gives a digital readout.
mechanical problems or failed insulator, either as a solid color or as a colored
These are often used when testing solid state
components if the circuit voltage wire with an identification stripe. A printed circuit
circuits because of their high input impedance
falls within the preprogrammed is a thin film of copper or other conductor that is
(usually 10 megohms or more).
limits stored in the tester PROM printed on an insulator backing. Occasionally, a
The tach/dwell meter combines a tachometer
unit. Also, most of the hand held printed circuit is sandwiched between two
and a dwell (cam angle) meter and is a
testes are designed to work only on sheets of plastic for more protection and
specialized kind of voltmeter. The tachometer
one or two systems made by a flexibility. A complete printed circuit, consisting
scale is marked to show engine speed in rpm
specific manufacturer. of conductors, insulating material and
and the dwell scale is marked to show degrees
connectors for lamps or other components is
of distributor shaft rotation. In most electronic A variety of aftermarket testers are available to
called a printed circuit board. Printed circuitry is
ignition systems, dwell is determined by the help diagnose different computerized control
used in place of individual wires or harnesses in
control unit, but the dwell meter can also be used systems. Owatonna Tool Company (OTC), for
places where space is limited, such as behind
to check the duty cycle (operation) of some example, markets a device called the OTC
instrument panels.
electronic engine control systems. Some tach/ Monitor which plugs directly into the assembly
dwell meters are powered by an internal battery, line diagnostic link (ALDL). The OTC tester Wire Gauge
while others take their power from the car battery makes diagnosis a simple matter of pressing the
Since computer controlled automotive
in use. The battery powered testers usually correct buttons and, by changing the internal
electrical systems are very sensitive to changes
require calibration much like an ohmmeter PROM or inserting a different diagnosis
in resistance, the selection of properly sized
before testing. cartridge, it will work on any model from full size
wires is critical when systems are repaired. The
to subcompact, over a wide range of years. An
Special Test Equipment wire gauge number is an expression of the cross
adapter is supplied with the tester to allow
section area of the conductor. The most
A variety of diagnostic tools are available to connection to all types of ALDL links, regardless
of the number of pin terminals used. By inserting common system for expressing wire size is the
help troubleshoot and repair computerized
American Wire Gauge (AWG) system.
engine control systems. The most sophisticated an updated PROM into the OTC tester, it can be
of these devices are the console type engine easily updated to diagnose any new Wire cross section area is measured in
analyzers that usually occupy a garage service modifications of computerized control systems. circular mils. A mil is VI000 in. (0.001 in.
bay, but there are several types of aftermarket [0.0254mmj); a circular mil is the area of a
electronic testers available that will allow quick circle one mil in diameter. For example, a
conductor V4 in. (6mm) in diameter is 0.250 in.
circuit tests of the engine control system by Wiring Harnesses or 250 mils. The circular mil cross section area
plugging directly into a special connector
located in the engine compartment or under the of the wire is 250 squared (2502)or 62,500
The average automobile contains about V2
dashboard. Several tool and equipment circular mils. Imported car models usually use
mile of wiring, with hundreds of individual
manufacturers offer simple, hand held testers metric wire gauge designations, which is simply
connections. To protect the many wires from
 CHASSIS ELECTRICAL 6-7
the cross section area of the conductor in square Wiring diagrams are not included 238°C). Contrary to popular belief, the purpose
millimeters (mm2). in this book. As trucks have become of the soldering iron is not to melt the solder
Gauge numbers are assigned to conductors of more complex and available with itself, but to heat the parts being soldered to a
various cross section areas. As gauge number longer option lists, wiring diagrams temperature high enough to melt the solder when
increases, area decreases and the conductor have grown in size and complexity. it is touched to the work. Melting flux-cored
becomes smaller. A 5 gauge conductor is It has become almost impossible to solder on the soldering iron will usually destroy
smaller than a 1 gauge conductor and a 10 provide a readable reproduction of the effectiveness of the flux.
gauge is smaller than a 5 gauge. As the cross a wiring diagram In a book this size. Soldering tips are made of copper
section area of a conductor decreases, Information on ordering wiring for good heat conductivity, but
resistance increases and so does the gauge diagrams from the vehicle must be “tinned” regularly for
number. A conductor with a higher gauge manufacturer can be found in the quick transference of heat to the
number will carry less current than a conductor owner’s manual. project and to prevent the solder
with a lower gauge number. from sticking to the iron. To “tin”
Gauge wire size refers to the size the iron, simply heat it and touch
of the conductor, not the size of the WIRING REPAIR the flux-cored solder to the tip; the
complete wire. It Is possible to have solder will flow over the hot tip.
two wires of the same gauge with Wipe the excess off with a clean
Soldering is a quick, efficient method of
different diameters because one rag, but be careful as the Iron will
joining metals permanently. Everyone who has
may have thicker insulation than be hot.
the occasion to make wiring repairs should know
the other. After some use, the tip may become pitted. If
how to solder. Electrical connections that are
12 volt automotive electrical systems soldered are far less likely to come apart and will so, simply dress the tip smooth with a smooth
generally use 10,12,14,16 and 18 gauge-wire. conduct electricity much better than connections file and “tin” the tip again. An old saying holds
Main power distribution circuits and larger that are only “pig-tailed” together. The most that “metals well cleaned are half soldered.”
accessories usually use 10 and 12 gauge wire. popular (and preferred) method of soldering is Flux-cored solder will remove oxides but rust,
Battery cables are usually 4 or 6 gauge, although with an electrical soldering gun. Soldering irons bits of insulation and oil or grease must be
1 and 2 gauge wires are occasionally used. Wire are available in many sizes and wattage ratings. removed with a wire brush or emery cloth. For
length must also be considered when making Irons with higher wattage ratings deliver higher maximum strength in soldered parts, the joint
repairs to a circuit. As conductor length temperatures and recover lost heat faster. A must start off clean and tight. Weak joints will
increases, so does resistance. An 18 gauge small soldering iron rated for no more than 50 result in gaps too wide for the solder to bridge.
wire, for example, can cany a 10 amp load for watts is recommended, especially on electrical If a separate soldering flux is used, it should
10 feet without excessive voltage drop; however systems where excess heat can damage the be brushed or swabbed on only those areas that
if a 15 foot wire is required for the same 10 amp components being soldered. are to be soldered. Most solders contain a core
load, it must be a 16 gauge wire. There are three ingredients necessary for of flux and separate fluxing is unnecessary. Hold
An electrical schematic shows the electrical successful soldering; proper flux, good solder the work to be soldered firmly. It is best to solder
current paths when a circuit is operating and sufficient heat. A soldering flux is necessary on a wooden board, because a metal vise will
properly. It is essential to understand how a to clean the metal of tarnish, prepare it for only rob the piece to be soldered of heat and
circuit works before trying to figure out why it soldering and to enable the solder to spread into make it difficult to melt the solder. Hold the
doesn’t. Schematics break the entire electrical tiny crevices. When soldering, always use a soldering tip with the broadest face against the
system down into individual circuits and show resin flux or resin core solder which is non- work to be soldered. Apply solder under the tip
only one particular circuit. In a schematic, no corrosive and will not attract moisture once the close to the work, using enough solder to give a
attempt is made to represent wiring and job is finished. Other types of flux (acid core) will heavy film between the iron and the piece being
components as they physically appear on the leave a residue that will attract moisture and soldered, while moving slowly and making sure
vehicle; switches and other components are cause the wires to corrode. Tin is a unique metal the solder melts properly. Keep the work level or
shown as simply as possible. Face views of with a low melting point. In a molten state, it the solder will run to the lowest part and favor
harness connectors show the cavity or terminal dissolves and alloys easily with many metals. the thicker parts, because these require more
locations in all multi-pin connectors to help Solder is made by mixing tin with lead. The most heat to melt the solder. If the soldering tip
locate test points. common proportions are 40/60,50/50 and 60/ overheats (the solder coating on the face of the
If you need to backprobe a connector while it 40, with the percentage of tin listed first. Low tip burns up), it should be retinned. Once the
is on the component, the order of the terminals priced solders usually contain less tin, making soldering is completed, let the soldered joint
must be mentally reversed. The wire color code them very difficult for a beginner to use because stand until cool. Tape and seal all soldered wire
can help in this situation, as well as a keyway, more heat is required to melt the solder. A splices after the repair has cooled.
lock tab or other reference mark. common solder is 40/60 which is well suited for
Wire Harness and Connectors
all-around general use, but 60/40 melts easier,
has more tin for a better joint and is preferred for The on-board computer (ECM) wire harness
electrical work. electrically connects the control unit to the
various solenoids, switches and sensors used
Soldering Techniques by the control system. Most connectors in the
Successful soldering requires that the metals engine compartment or otherwise exposed to the
to be joined be heated to a temperature that will elements are protected against moisture and dirt
melt the solder-usually 360-460°F (182— which could create oxidation and deposits on the
 6-8 CHASSIS ELECTRICAL
terminals. This protection is important because Secure the harness with suitable plastic wire with the leads molded into the shell have non-
of the very low voltage and current levels used clamps to prevent vibrations from causing the replaceable terminal ends. Replacement usually
by the computer and sensors. All connectors harness to wear in spots or contact any hot involves the use of a special terminal removal
have a lock which secures the male and female components. tool that depress the locking tangs (barbs) on the
terminals together, with a secondary lock connector terminal and allow the connector to be
Weatherproof connectors cannot
holding the seal and terminal into the connector. removed from the rear of the shell. The
be replaced with standard
Both terminal locks must be released when connector shell should be replaced if it shows
connectors. Instructions are
disconnecting ECM connectors. provided with replacement any evidence of burning, melting, cracks, or
These special connectors are weather-proof connector and terminal packages. breaks. Replace individual terminals that are
and all repairs require the use of a special Some wire harnesses have burnt, corroded, distorted or loose.
terminal and the tool required to service it. This mounting Indicators (usually The insulation crimp must be
tool is used to remove the pin and sleeve pieces of colored tape) to mark tight to prevent the insulation from
terminals. If removal is attempted with an where the harness Is to be secured. sliding back on the wire when the
ordinary pick, there is a good chance that the wire is pulled. The insulation must
terminal will be bent or deformed. Unlike In making wiring repairs, it’s important that
you always replace damaged wires with wires be visibly compressed under the
standard blade type terminals, these terminals crimp tabs, and the ends of the
cannot be straightened once they are bent. Make that are the same gauge as the wire being
replaced. The heavier the wire, the smaller the crimp should be turned In for a firm
certain that the connectors are properly seated grip on the insulation.
and all of the sealing rings in place when gauge number. Wires are color-coded to aid in
connecting leads. On some models, a hinge-type identification and whenever possible the same The wire crimp must be made with all wire
flap provides a backup or secondary locking color coded wire should be used for strands inside the crimp. The terminal must be
feature for the terminals. Most secondary locks replacement. A wire stripping and crimping tool fully compressed on the wire strands with the
are used to improve the connector reliability by is necessary to install solderless terminal ends of the crimp tabs turned in to make a firm
retaining the terminals if the small terminal lock connectors. Test all crimps by pulling on the grip on the wire. Check all connections with an
tangs are not positioned properly. wires; it should not be possible to pull the wires ohmmeter to insure a good contact. There
out of a good crimp. should be no measurable resistance between the
Molded-on connectors require complete
Wires which are open, exposed or otherwise wire and the terminal when connected.
replacement of the connection. This means
splicing a new connector assembly into the damaged are repaired by simple splicing. Where
harness. All splices in on-board computer possible, if the wiring harness is accessible and
systems should be soldered to insure proper the damaged place in the wire can be located, it
contact. Use care when probing the connections is best to open the harness and check for all Mechanical Test
or replacing terminals in them as it is possible to possible damage. In an inaccessible harness, Equipment
short between opposite terminals. If this the wire must be bypassed with a new insert,
happens to the wrong terminal pair, it is possible usually taped to the outside of the old harness.
to damage certain components. Always use When replacing fusible links, be sure to use Vacuum Gauge
jumper wires between connectors for circuit fusible link wire, NOT ordinary automotive wire. Most gauges are graduated in inches of
checking and never probe through weatherproof Make sure the fusible segment is of the same mercury (in.Hg), although a device called a
seals. gauge and construction as the one being manometer reads vacuum in inches of water (in.
Open circuits are often difficult to locate by replaced and double the stripped end when H20). The normal vacuum reading usually varies
sight because corrosion or terminal crimping the terminal connector for a good between 18 and 22 in.Hg at sea level. To test
misalignment are hidden by the connectors. contact. The melted (open) fusible link segment engine vacuum, the vacuum gauge must be
Merely wiggling a connector on a sensor or in of the wiring harness should be cut off as close connected to a source of manifold vacuum.
the wiring harness may correct the open circuit to the harness as possible, then a new segment Many engines have a plug in the intake manifold
condition. This should always be considered spliced in as described. In the case of a which can be removed and replaced with an
when an open circuit or a failed sensor is damaged fusible link that feeds two harness adapter fitting. Connect the vacuum gauge to the
indicated. Intermittent problems may also be wires, the harness connections should be fitting with a suitable rubber hose or, if no
caused by oxidized or loose connections. When replaced with two fusible link wires so that each manifold plug is available, connect the vacuum
using a circuit tester for diagnosis, always probe circuit will have its own separate protection. gauge to any device using manifold vacuum,
connections from the wire side. Be careful not to Most of the problems caused In such as EGR valves, etc. The vacuum gauge can
damage sealed connectors with test probes. the wiring harness are due to bad be used to determine if enough vacuum is
All wiring harnesses should be replaced with ground connections. Always check reaching a component to allow its actuation.
identical parts, using the same gauge wire and all vehicle ground connections for
corrosion or looseness before Hand Vacuum Pump
connectors. When signal wires are spliced into a
harness, use wire with high temperature performing any power feed checks Small, hand-held vacuum pumps come in a
insulation only. With the low voltage and current to eliminate the chance of a bad variety of designs. Most have a built-in vacuum
levels found in the system, it is important that the ground affecting the circuit. gauge and allow the component to be tested
best possible connection at all wire splices be without removing it from the vehicle. Operate the
Repairing Hard Shell Connectors pump lever or plunger to apply the correct
made by soldering the splices together. It is
seldom necessary to replace a complete Unlike molded connectors, the terminal amount of vacuum required for the test specified
harness. If replacement is necessary, pay close contacts in hard shell connectors can be in the diagnosis routines. The level of vacuum in
attention to insure proper harness routing. replaced. Weatherproof hard-shell connectors inches of Mercury (in.Hg) is indicated on the
 CHASSIS ELECTRICAL 6-9
pump gauge. For some testing, an additional problems in vacuum control systems, a vacuum These hand vacuum pumps have a built-in
vacuum gauge may be necessary. source is necessary for testing. In some cases, vacuum gauge that allow testing while the device
Intake manifold vacuum is used to operate vacuum can be taken from the intake manifold is still attached to the component. For some
various systems and devices on late model when the engine is running, but vacuum Is tests, an additional vacuum gauge may be
vehicles. To correctly diagnose and solve normally provided by a hand vacuum pump. necessary.

HEATER AND AIR CONDITIONING

Refer to Section 1 for discharging and attracted by the ethylene glycol attracted by the ethylene glycol
charging of the air conditioning system. antifreeze, and are quite likely to antifreeze, and are quite likely to
The heating system provides heating, drink any that Is left In an drink any that is left In an
ventilation and defrosting for the windshield and uncovered container or In puddles uncovered container or In puddles
side windows. The heater core is a heat on the ground. This will prove fatal on the ground. This will prove fatal
exchanger supplied with coolant from the engine in sufficient quantity. Always drain in sufficient quantity. Always drain
cooling system. Temperature is controlled by the the coolant Into a sealable the coolant Into a sealable
temperature valve which moves an air door that container. Coolant should be container. Coolant should be
directs air flow through the heater core for more reused unless It Is contaminated or reused unless It Is contaminated or
heat or bypasses the heater core for less heat. several years old. several years old.
Vacuum actuators control the mode doors
which direct air flow to the outlet ducts. The
mode selector on the control panel directs 3. Disconnect the heater hoses from the 2. On the diesel, raise and support the car on
engine vacuum to the actuators. The position of heater core inlet and outlet connections in the jackstands.
the mode doors determines whether air flows engine compartment. 3. Disconnect the hoses at the core.
from the floor, panel, defrost or panel and 4. Blow residual coolant from the heater core 4. On the diesel, remove the instrument panel
defrost ducts (bi-level mode). using shop air. lower sound absorber.
5. Working inside the vehicle, remove the 5. Remove the heater duct and lower side
lower instrument panel sound insulator panel. covers.
Blower Motor 6. Remove the heater floor outlet duct screws 6. Remove the lower heater outlet.
or clips and remove the duct. 7. Remove the two housing cover-to-air
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 7. Remove the heater core cover by valve housing clips.
removing the attaching screws and clips. 8. Remove the housing cover.
8. Remove the heater core cover. 9. Remove the core restraining straps.
* SEE FIGS. 1-3 9. Remove the heater core retaining straps 10. Remove the core tubing retainers and lift
This procedure Is for all cars, with and remove the heater core. out the core.
or without air conditioning. To install: 11. Reverse the above process to install the
10. Position the heater core in the housing heater core.
1. Disconnect the negative cable at the
and install the retaining straps.
battery.
11. Position the heater core cover on the
2. Working inside the engine compartment,
disconnect the blower motor electrical leads.
housing and install the attaching screws and Control Head
clips.
3. Remove the motor retaining screws, and
12. Install the floor outlet duct and attaching
remove the blower motor.
screws or clips.
4. Reverse the removal process to install.
13. Install the lower instrument panel sound
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
insulator panel.
Heater Core 14. Working in the engine compartment, 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
connect the heater core inlet and outlet hoses. 2. Remove the radio knobs (if equipped) and
15. Fill the cooling system. the clock set knob (if equipped).
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 16. Start the engine and check for coolant 3. Remove the instrument bezel retaining
leaks. Allow the engine to warm up sufficiently to screws.
confirm the proper operation of the heater. 4. Pull the bezel out to disconnect the rear
Recheck for leaks. Fill the cooling system. defogger switch and the remote mirror control (if
Cars Without Air Conditioning
equipped).
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable and Carp With Air Condftioning 5. Remove the instrument panel.
drain the cooling system. 1. Drain the cooling system. 6. Remove the control head to dash screws
and pull the head out.
** CAUTION 7. Disconnect the electrical connectors and/
CAUTION or control cable(s) (if equipped), then remove
When draining the coolant, keep in When draining the coolant, keep In the control head.
mind that cats and dogs are mind that cats and dogs are 8. To install, reverse steps 1 through 7.
6-10 CHASSIS ELECTRICAL

1. Fan ground terminal

2. Blower motor
assembly
3. Fan support
4. Fan
5. Nut
6. Blower case
7. Clip
8. Mounting cable
bracket
9. Temperature valve
and seal assembly
10. Temperature shaft
and lever assembly
11. Vent shaft and lever
assembly
12. Heater case
13. Mounting cable
bracket
14. Defroster valve and
fitting assembly
15. Defroster shaft and
lever assembly
16. Core clamp
17. Large air baffle
18. Valve seat
19. Plate cover
20. Core and fitting
assembly
21. Seal tube

FIG. 1 Heater core and case assembly

1. Module assembly
2. Inlet and blower
assembly
3. Bolt 20 inch lbs. (2.3
Nm)
4. Bolt 39 inch lbs. (4.4
Nm)

FIG.2 Heater module

 CHASSIS ELECTRICAL 6-11

HEATER VENT VENT MODE

m
HEAT MODE DEFROST MODE

1. Heater core 6. Air flow through the

2. Temperature valve instrument panel
7. Air flow to the 8. Air flow to the
3. Blower
windshield and windshield and
4. Vent valve
heater outlet heater outlet
5. Defrost valve

FIG.3 Heater module air flow pattern

6-12 CHASSIS ELECTRICAL

<(T> INSUFFICIENT HEATING OR DEFROSTING

CHASSIS ELECTRICAL 6-13
6-14 CHASSIS ELECTRICAL

IMPROPER AIR DELIVERY OR NO MODE SHIFT

<§> (FUNCTIONAL TEST)

WITH THE VEHICLE ON AND THE ENGINE WARM, RUN THE FOLLOWING FUNC¬
TIONAL CHECKS. CHECK CABLES FOR EXCESSIVE EFFORT OR BINDING.
T
MODE TEMP FAN BLOWER POWER HEATER DEFR. SIDE
LEVER SWITCH SPEED VENT OUTLET OUTLET WINDOW
OUTLET DEFOGGER
OUTLET
VENT COLD OFF OFF NO NO NO NO
AIRFLOW AIRFLOW AIRFLOW AIRFLOW
VENT COLD HIGH HIGH AMBIENT NO NO NO
AIRFLOW AIRFLOW AIRFLOW AIRFLOW
HEATER COLD HIGH HIGH NO COLD TO MINIMUM MINIMUM
TO HOT AIRFLOW HOT C0LDT0H0T C0LDT0H0T
AIRFLOW AIRFLOW AIRFLOW
DEFROSTER COLD HIGH HIGH NO MINIMUM COLD TO MINIMUM
TO HOT AIRFLOW COLD TO HOT COLD TO
HOT AIRFLOW HOT
AIRFLOW AIRFLOW

CHECK DOOR AFFECTED AT UNIT FOR CABLE

CONNECTED & CABLE SHEATH RETAINED

OK NOT OK

DISCONNECT CABLE AT DOOR &CHECK DOOR REPAIR AS NECESSARY

TRAVEL & EFFORT

I
NOT OK OK

ZEZ
REPAIR AS NECESSARY

CHECK BOWDEN CABLE TRAVEL BY

MOVING CONTROL LEVER

I 1
TRAVEL OK NO TRAVEL

HUH
REINSTALL &
n:r
CHECK CABLE ATTACHMENT AT CONTROL & CHECK
RECHECK FOR BROKEN CONTROL. REPAIR AS NECESSARY.
 CHASSIS ELECTRICAL 6-15

TOO MUCH HEAT

<§>
HEATER MODE VENT MODE HEATER MODE

£ 1
ADJUST THE HEATER CON¬ OBJECTIONABLE VENT AIR OBJECTIONABLE
TROLS TO: HEATER MODE, BLEED TOO WARM DEFROSTER BLEED
HIGH BLOWER SPEED, i I T
TEMPERATURE LEVER WITH THE
CHECK FOR CHECK THE HEATER &
TO FULL HOT IGNITION
SYSTEM CASE DEFROSTER DOOR
LEAKS & SWITCH OFF, ADJUSTMENTS, CA¬
CHECK HEAT¬ MOVE THE BLES, CONTROLS,
WITH THE IGNITION ER OUTLET TEMPERATURE LINKAGE & ADJUST
SWITCH ON, CHECK FOR ATTACHMENT LEVER TO FULL AS REQUIRED.
AIRFLOW OUT OF THE HOT THEN
HEATER OUTLET & RAPIDLY TO
CHECK OUTLET FULL COLD,
ATTACHMENT LISTEN FOR
DOOR SLAM
PRIOR TO
CONTROL END
LOW OR OF TRAVEL
-r
NO
AIRFLOW WITH THE IGNITION
SWITCH OFF, MOVE THE
TEMPERATURE LEVER TO DOOR SLAM NO DOOR
CHECK CHECK FULL HOT THEN RAPIDLY OK SLAM
BLOWER BLOWER TO FULL COLD. LISTEN
SPEEDS SPEEDS FOR DOOR SLAM PRIOR
FOR FOR TO CONTROL END OF
AIRFLOW AIRFLOW TRAVEL.
CHANGE CHANGE

IN¬ ADJUST THE CON¬ CHECK THE TEMPER¬

SPEED NO SPEED TROLS TO VENT ATURE DOOR AD¬
CHANGE SPEED CHANGE MODE, HIGH BLOWER JUSTMENT, CABLES.
OK CHANGE OK LINKAGE & ADJUST
SPEED & THE TEMP¬
ERATURE LEVER TO TO FULL COLD.
BLOWER ELECTRICAL MAL¬ FULL COLD. START CHECK FOR
FUNCTION. SEE SECTION 8A.
THE VEHICLE & AL¬ FULL HOT.
LOW THE ENGINE
CHECK THE TEM- ADJUST THE
TO WARM UP. WITH
PERATURE DOOR HEATER DE-
A THERMOMETER,
ADJUSTMENT, CA- FROSTER
CHECK THE AIR
BLES, LINKAGE & AND/OR VENT
TEMPERATURE AT
ADJUST TO FULL DOOR TO
THE BLOWER INLET
COLD, CHECK FOR HEATER
(COWL) & AT THE
FULL HOT. MODE.
VENT AIR OUTLET IN
THE VEHICLE. THE
TEMPERATURE DIF¬
FERENCE IS THE A T.

NO DOOR SLAM DOOR SLAM OK AT 5°C(10°F) A T MORE THAN 5°C(10°F)

1 . OR LESS
CHECK THE
TEMPERATURE
DOOR ADJUSTMENT, ADJUST THE SYSTEM OK CHECK FOR HOT AIR
CABLES, LINKAGE & HEATER DEFROST¬ LEAKS FROM THE ENGINE
ADJUST TO FULL ER & VENT DOOR COMPARTMENT TO THE
COLD. CHECK FOR TO VENT MODE BLOWER INLET & REPAIR
FULL HOT AS NECESSARY
6-16 CHASSIS ELECTRICAL

<£> CONTROLS
 CHASSIS ELECTRICAL 6-17

<5> BLOWER NOISE

INDICATE THE TYPE OF NOISE AND WHERE IT OCCURS:

VENT HEATER DEFROST

FULL FULL FULL FULL FULL FULL
COLD HOT COLD HOT COLD HOT
LOW
BLOWER
M2
M3
HIGH
BLOWER

A—WHINE, B—CLICK/TICK, C—SQUEAUSCREECH, D—FLUTTER, E—RUMBLE,

CONTINUED AT TOP OF NEXT PAGE

6-18 CHASSIS ELECTRICAL
 CHASSIS ELECTRICAL 6-19

AIR CONDITIONER

The heater and air conditioning systems are

controlled manually or electronically. The
systems differ mainly in the way air temperature
and the routing of air flow are controlled. The
manual system controls air temperature through
a cable-actuated lever and air flow through a
vacuum switching valve and vacuum actuators.
With Electronic Climate Control (ECC) systems,
both temperature and air flow are controlled by
the BCM through the Climate Control Panel
(CCP).
There are 2 types of compressors used on
front wheel drive car air conditioning systems.
The HR-6 compressor, used on Cycling Clutch
Orifice Tube (CCOT) systems, is a 6 cylinder
axial compressor consisting of 3 double-ended
pistons actuated by a swash plate shaft
assembly. The compressor cycles on and off
according to system demands. The compfessor
driveshaft is driven by the serpentine belt when
the electro-magnetic clutch is engaged.
The V-5 compressor, used on Variable
Displacement Orifice Tube (VDOT) systems, is
designed to meet the demands of the air
conditioning system without cycling. The
compressor employs a variable angle wobble
plate controlling the displacement of 5 axially
oriented cylinders. Displacement is controlled by 1. Bolt/Screw 25 ft. lbs.
(33 Nm)
a bellows actuated control valve located in the 2. Hose and fitting
rear head of the compressor. The electro¬ assembly 7. Radiator support
magnetic compressor clutch connects the 3. O-ring grommet
4. Accumulator 8. Condenser pipe
compressor shaft to the serpentine drive belt
5. Condenser 9. A/C compressor
when the coil is energized. 6. Condenser outlet 10. Switch assembly

FIG.4 Compressor and hoses - 3.1 L (VIN T) shown

Service Valve Locations
Refer to Section 1 for discharging and To install:
charging of the air conditioning system. 2. Disconnect the electrical connectors from
the compressor. 9. If the compressor is to be replaced, drain
The high-side service valve is normally the oil from the new compressor and discard.
located in the refrigerant line near the discharge 3. Properly discharge the air conditioning
system. Add new refrigerant oil equivalent to the amount
fitting of the compressor. that was drained from the compressor upon
The low-side service valve is normally located 4. Remove the coupled hose assembly from
the rear of the compressor. Discard the O-rings. removal.
on the accumulator or in the condenser-to- 10. Position the compressor in the vehicle.
evaporator refrigerant line. Cap the refrigerant lines when
11. Install the compressor attaching bolts.
opening the system to prevent the
12. Install new O-rings to the coupled hose
entry of dirt and moisture and the assembly. Lubricate the O-rings with refrigerant
Compressor loss of refrigerant lubricant.
oil.
5. Release the drive belt tension and remove 13. Install the coupled hose assembly to the
the belt from the compressor. back of the compressor.
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
6 . Remove the compressor attaching bolts. 14. Install the drive belt.
7. Remove the compressor. 15. Connect the electrical connectors to the
8 . Drain and measure the refrigerant oil from compressor.
t SEE FIGS. 4 & 5 the compressor. Discard the old oil. 16. Evacuate, recharge and leak test the
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. system.
17. Connect negative battery cable.
6-20 CHASSIS ELECTRICAL

A/C module
A/C hose assembly
A/C switches
Bolt/Screw 25 ft. lbs.
(33 Nm)
5. Condenser pipe
6. Radiator support
grommet
7. A/C compressor

FIG.5 Compressor and hoses - 2.5 (VIN R) shown

Use a backup wrench on the 11. Evacuate, charge and leak test the
Condenser condenser fittings when removing system.
the high-pressure and liquid lines.
Cap both refrigerant lines when
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION opening the system to prevent the Blower Motor
entry of dirt and moisture and the
loss of refrigerant lubricant.
3. Remove the condenser attaching bolts REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
from the center support.
** CAUTION
4. Remove the engine strut bracket and upper
Some vehicles are equipped with radiator support. Lean radiator back. t SEE FIG. 7
the Supplemental Inflatable 5. Remove the condenser.
EXCEPT 1991-92 CENTURY AND CUTLASS
Restraint or air bag system. The air To install:
bag system must be disabled 6 . Position the condenser in the vehicle.
CIERA AND CRUISER
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
before performing service on or If replacing the condenser or If 2. Disconnect the electrical connections at
around the air bag, Instrument the original condenser was flushed the blower motor.
panel components, wiring and during service, add 1 fluid oz. 3. Remove the bolts attaching the blower
sensors. Failure to follow safety (30ml) of refrigerant lubricant to motor to the evaporator case.
and disabling procedures could the system. 4. Remove the blower motor.
result in accidental air bag
deployment, possible personal 7. Install the upper radiator support and If equipped with 2.8L or 3.1 L MPI
engine strut bracket. engines, It may be necessary to
injury and unnecessary air bag
system repairs. 8 . Install the condenser attaching bolts. rotate the alternator away In order
9. Replace the condenser fitting 0-rings. to completely remove the blower
Lubricate the O-rings with refrigerant oil. motor.
1. Properly discharge the air conditioning 10. Connect the condenser high-pressure
To install:
system. and liquid lines.
5. Position the blower motor in the
2. Disconnect the high-pressure and liquid p* Use a backup wrench on the evaporator case and install the attaching bolts.
lines at the condenser fittings. Discard the 0-
rings.
condenser fittings when tightening
lines.
6 . Connect the electrical connectors at the
blower motor.
 CHASSIS ELECTRICAL 6-21
p* Cap the refrigerant lines when
Blower Motor Resistor/ opening the system to prevent the
Power Module entry of dirt and moisture and the
loss of refrigerant lubricant.
7. Remove the blower motor resistor from
the top of the cover.
8. Disconnect the blower motor electrical
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION connector.
9. If equipped with the 2.8L MPI engine,
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. remove the alternator bracket bolts, alternator
2. Disconnect the electrical connector at the rear brace bolt, alternator pivot bolt and move
resistor. the alternator away from the module.
3. Remove the resistor attaching screws. 10. Remove the evaporator core.
4. Remove the resistor from the evaporator To install:
case. i* If replacing the evaporator or If
To Install: the original evaporator was flushed
5. Position the resistor in the evaporator during service, add 2-3 fluid oz.
case. Install the attaching screws. (60-90ml) of refrigerant lubricant
1. Fan 6. Connect the electrical connector. to the system.
2. Blower motor 7. Connect the negative battery cable.
11. Clean the old gasket material from the
FIG.7 Blower motor removal with air ' cowl.
conditioning 12. Install the evaporator core in the module.
Evaporator
13. Apply permagum sealer to the case and
install the cover using a new gasket.
7. Connect the negative battery cable. 14. Install the cover attaching screws.
1991-92 CENTURY AND CUTLASS CIERA REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 15. If equipped with the 2.8L MPI engine,
AND CRUISER position the alternator and install the pivot bolts,
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. rear brace bolt and alternator bracket bolts.
2. Remove the wiper arms. 16. Connect the blower motor electrical
3. Remove the cowl panel. connector.
** CAUTION 17. Install the resistor to the top of the cover.
4. Disconnect the blower motor electrical
connector and vent tube. Some vehicles are equipped with 18. Install new 0-rings to the liquid and low
5. Remove the blower motor attaching the Supplemental Inflatable pressure lines. Lubricate 0-rings with refrigerant
screws. Restraint or air bag system. The air oil.
6. Remove the fan retaining nut from the bag system must be disabled 19. Connect the liquid line at the evaporator
blower motor shaft through the plenum opening. before performing service on or inlet and low pressure line at the evaporator
7. Remove the fan from the blower motor around the air bag, instrument outlet.
while removing the blower motor from the panel components, wiring and 20. Install the heater hose routing bracket to
vehicle. sensors. Failure to follow safety the cover.
To install: and disabling procedures could 21. Route the cowl harness in the straps and
8. Holding the fan through the plenum result in accidental air bag connect the module electrical connectors.
opening, position the blower motor in the deployment, possible personal 22. Evacuate, recharge and leak test the
evaporator housing while installing the fan to the injury and unnecessary air bag system.
blower motor. system repairs. 23. Connect the negative battery cable.
9. Install the fan retaining nut to the blower
motor shaft through the plenum opening.
10. Install the blower motor attaching 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Evaporator Core
screws. 2. Remove the air cleaner.
11. Connect the electrical connector and vent 3. Properly discharge the air conditioning
tube. system.
12. Install the cowl panel. 4. Disconnect the module electrical REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
13. Install the wiper arms. connectors, disconnect the harness straps and
14. Connect the negative battery cable. move the harness aside.
5. Remove the heater hose routing bracket 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
from the back of the cover. 2. Discharge the A/C system.
6. Disconnect the liquid line at the evaporator
inlet and low pressure line at the evaporator
outlet.
 6-22 CHASSIS ELECTRICAL
10. Connect the low-pressure inlet and outlet
CAUTION lines. Fixed Orifice Tube
When discharging, evacuating and 11. Evacuate, charge and leak test the
charging the A/C system, please system.
refer to Section 1 and be aware of 12. Connect the negative battery cable.
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
all precautions of handling
refrigerant.
Refrigerant Lines t SEE FIG. 9
1. Properly discharge the air conditioning
3. Remove the module’s rubber seal and system.
screen. 2. Loosen the fitting at the liquid line outlet on
4. Remove the right windshield wiper arm. REMOVAL & INSTALLATION the condenser or evaporator inlet pipe and
5. Remove the diagnostic connector, the high disconnect. Discard the O-ring.
blower relay and the thermostatic switch.
| SEE FIG. 8 Use a backup wrench on the
6. Disconnect the electrical connectors from
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. condenser outlet fitting when
the module.
2. Properly discharge the air conditioning loosening the lines.
7. Remove the module’s top cover.
8. Remove the accumulator bracket screws. system. 3. On 1990-91 vehicles equipped with the
9. Disconnect and tape the refrigerant lines at 3. Disconnect the refrigerant line connectors, 2.0L (VIN K) engine, remove the expansion tube
the accumulator and liquid line. using a backup wrench as required. by performing the following:
10. Remove the evaporator core. 4. Remove refrigerant line support or routing a. Loosen the nut and separate the front
11. When installing, use new sealing brackets, as required. evaporator tube from the rear evaporator tube
material. When connecting the refrigerant lines, 5. Remove refrigerant line. near the compressor to gain access to the
use new 0-rings dipped in clean refrigerant oil To Install: expansion tube.
and charge the A/C system. Refer to Section 1 6. Position new refrigerant line in place, b. Carefully remove the tube with needle-
for proper charging procedure. leaving protective caps installed until ready to nose pliers or special tool J-26549D.
connect. c. Inspect the tube for contamination or
7. Install new O-rings on refrigerant line metal cuttings.
connector fittings. Lubricate with refrigerant oil.
Accumulator 8. Connect refrigerant line, using a backup
4. Carefully, remove the fixed orifice tube
from the tube fitting in the evaporator inlet line.
wrench, as required. 5. In the event that the restricted or
9. Install refrigerant line support or routing plugged orifice tube is difficult to remove,
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION brackets, as required. perform the following:
10. Evacuate, recharge and leak test the a. Remove as much of the impacted
system. residue as possible.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 11. Connect the negative battery cable.
2. Properly discharge the air conditioning
system.
3. Disconnect the low-pressure lines at the
HOLD PRESSURE AGAINST NUT
inlet and outlet fittings on the accumulator.
Cap the refrigerant lines when
opening the system to prevent the
entry of dirt and moisture and the
loss of refrigerant lubricant.
4. Disconnect the pressure cycling switch
connection and remove the switch, as required.
5. Loosen the lower strap bolt and spread the
strap. Turn the accumulator and remove.
6. Drain and measure the oil in the
accumulator. Discard the old oil.
To install:
7. Add new oil equivalent to the amount
SELECT APPROPRIATE TUBE O.D.
drained from the old accumulator. Add an SECTION OF TOOL AND INSTALL OVER
additional 2-3 oz. (60-90ml) of oil to TUBE WITH TOOL FLANGE FACING NUT.
compensate for the oil retained by the
accumulator dessicant. TORQUE VALUE OF ALL DUAL O-RING
8. Position the accumulator in the securing JOINT CONNECTIONS IS 18 FT. LBS (24
bracket and tighten the clamp bolt. NM) V
9. Install new 0-rings at the inlet and outlet
FIG.8 Dual O-ring joint tool
connections on the accumulator. Lubricate the
O-rings with refrigerant oil.
 CHASSIS ELECTRICAL 6-23
Manual Control Head

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

^ SEE FIGS. 10 & 11

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove the hush panel, as required.
3. Remove the instrument panel trim plate.
4. Remove the control head attaching screws
and pull the control head out.
5. Disconnect the electrical and vacuum
connectors at the back of the control head.
b. Using a hair dryer, epoxy drier or 7. Add 1 oz. of 525 viscosity refrigerant oil Disconnect the temperature control cable.
equivalent, carefully apply heat approximately to the system. 6. Remove the control head.
V4 in. (6mm) from the dimples on the inlet 8. Lubricate the new 0-ring and orifice To install:
pipe. Do not overheat the pipe. tube with refrigerant oil and insert into the inlet 7. Position control head near the mounting
pipe. location. Connect the electrical and vacuum
If the system has a pressure
switch near the orifice tube, it Ensure that the new orifice tube is connectors and cables to the back of the control
should be removed prior to heating inserted in the Inlet tube with the head. Connect the temperature control.
the pipe to avoid damage to the smaller screen end first. 8. Install the control head and attaching
switch. 9. Connect the evaporator inlet pipe with the screws.
condenser outlet fitting. 9. Install the instrument panel trim plate.
c. While applying heat, use special tool J
26549—C or equivalent to grip the orifice tube. 10. Install the hush panel, if removed.
Use a backup wrench on the 11. Connect the negative battery cable.
Use a turning motion along with a push-pull condenser outlet fitting when
motion to loosen the impacted orifice tube and tightening the lines.
remove it.
6. Swab the inside of the evaporator inlet pipe 10. Evacuate, recharge and leak test the
system.
with R-11 to remove any remaining residue.

1. Defroster cable
2. Nut
3. Vent cable
4. Temperature cable
5. Control assembly
6. Bolt 13 inch lbs. (1.5
Nm) VIEW Al

FIG.10 Control panel mounting - Pontiac wagon shown

6-24 CHASSIS ELECTRICAL
1. Defroster cable 3. Temperature cable
assembly (blue assembly (red
clamp) clamp)
2. Vent cable assembly 4- Retainer
(qreen clamp) 5. Control assembly
6. Bolt 18 inch lbs. (2.0

RH AIR DISTRIBUTOR DUCT

VIEW | A |

FIG.11 Control panel mounting and cable routing - Chevrolet shown

2. Remove the instrument panel trim plate(s) To install:

Manual Control Cables to gain access to the electronic control panel. 5. Connect control panel electrical connector.
3. Remove the control panel attaching 6. Install control panel attaching screws.
screws. 7. Install the instrument panel trim plate(s).
ADJUSTMENT 4. Pull the control panel out far enough to
8. Connect the negative battery cable.
disconnect the electrical connector. Remove
control panel.
1. Attach the cable to the control assembly.
2. Place the control lever in the OFF
position.
3. Place the opposite loop of cable on the
lever or actuator post.
4. Push the sheath toward the lever until the
lever or actuator seats and the lash is out of the
cable and control.
5. Tighten the screw to secure the cable.

Electronic Climate
Control Panel
2. Air conditioning and
heater control
3. Radio
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 4. Screw

FIG.12 Electronic comfort control panel

t SEE FIG. 12
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
 CHASSIS ELECTRICAL 6-25
High-Pressure
Compressor Cut-Off
Switch

The function of the switch is to protect the

engine from overheating in the event of
excessively high compressor head pressure and
to deenergize the compressor clutch before the
high pressure relief valve discharge pressure is
reached. The switch is mounted on the back of
the compressor or on the refrigerant hose
assembly near the back of the compressor.
Servicing a switch mounted on the back of the
13. Evacuate, recharge and leak test the 3. Disconnect the electrical connector(s).
compressor requires that the system be
system. 4. If the switch is mounted to the rear head of
discharged. Switches mounted on the coupled
hose assembly are mounted on Schrader-type 14. Connect the negative battery cable. the compressor, remove the coupled hose
valves and do not require discharging the system 15. Operate the system to ensure proper assembly to gain access to the switch. Remove
operation and leak test the switch. the switch.
to be serviced.
5. If the switch is mounted to the coupled
Refrigerant Line-Mounted Switch hose assembly, remove the switch from its
The switch is mounted on a mounting position.
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION To install:
Schrader-type valve and does not
require that the system be 6. Install the switch.
#SEE FIG. 6 discharged. 7. Lubricate new O-rings with refrigerant oil.
8. If the switch is mounted to the rear head of
Compressor-Mounted Switch 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
the compressor, install the switch. Install new 0-
2. Disconnect the electrical connector.
The system must be discharged in rings on the coupled hose assembly and install
3. Remove the switch from the coupled hose the assembly to the back of the compressor.
order to service the high pressure assembly. Discard the O-ring.
relief switch mounted to the back of 9. If the switch is mounted on the coupled
To Install: hose assembly, install the switch.
the compressor.
4. Lubricate a new O-ring with refrigerant oil. 10. Connect the electrical connector(s).
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
5. Install the O-ring on the switch and install 11. Evacuate, charge and leak test the
2. Properly discharge the air conditioning the switch.
system. system.
6. Connect the electrical connector. 12. Connect the negative battery cable.
3. Remove the coupled hose assembly at the
7. Connect the negative battery cable.
rear of the compressor.
4. Disconnect the electrical connector.
5. Remove the switch retaining ring using Idle Speed Power
internal snapring pliers.
6. Remove the switch from the compressor. Low-Pressure Steering Pressure
Discard the O-ring. Compressor Cut-Off Switch
To Install: Switch
7. Lubricate a new O-ring with refrigerant oil. Engine idle speed is maintained by cutting off
Insert into the switch cavity. the compressor when high power steering loads
The function of the switch is to protect the
8. Lubricate the control switch housing with are imposed at idle. The switch is located on the
compressor by deenergizing the compressor in
clean refrigerant oil and insert the switch until it pinion housing portion of the steering rack.
the event of a low-charge condition. The switch
bottoms in the cavity.
may be mounted at the back of the compressor
9. install the switch retaining snapring with or on the coupled hose assembly near the
the high point of the curved sides adjacent to the compressor. Servicing the valve requires
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
switch housing. Ensure that the retaining ring is discharging the system.
properly seated in the switch cavity retaining
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
groove.
2. Disconnect the electrical connector.
10. Connect the electrical connector. REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 3. Remove the switch.
11. Lubricate new coupled hose assembly 0-
To install:
rings with refrigerant oil. Install on the hose 4. Install the switch.
assembly fittings*, 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
5. Connect the electrical connector.
12. Connect the coupled hose assembly to 2. Properly discharge the air conditioning
6. Connect the negative battery cable.
the compressor. system.
6-26 CHASSIS ELECTRICAL
7. Allow the engine to come to normal device in the system and senses refrigerant 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
operating temperature and confirm the proper pressure on the suction side. 2. Disconnect the electrical connector.
operation of the switch. 3. Remove the switch and 0-ring seal.
Discard the 0-ring.
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION To install:
Pressure Cycling Switch 4. Install a new 0-ring. Lubricate with
refrigerant oil.
The pressure cycling switch controls the The switch Is mounted on a 5. Install the switch to the accumulator.
refrigeration cycle by sensing low-side pressure Schrader valve on the accumulator. 6. Connect the electrical connector.
as an indicator of evaporator temperature. The The system need not be discharged 7. Connect the negative battery cable.
pressure cycling switch is the freeze-protection to remove the pressure cycling
switch.

CRUISE CONTROL SYSTEMS

which illuminates when the cmise control is or a cruise controller module), servo unit, vehicle
General Description engaged. speed sensor, vacuum supply, electrical and
• All systems will disconnect if the brake and/ vacuum release switches, and electrical
Cmise Control is a speed control system
or clutch pedal is depressed when the system is harness. The EMC system includes an electric
which maintains a desired vehicle speed under
engaged. The vacuum-sustained systems motor in place of the vacuum servo unit and
normal driving conditions. Steep grades -
release vacuum as well as interrupting the related hoses.
either up or down - may cause some variation
electrical signal to the controller.
in the set speed. Speed is maintained only by
mechanically holding the throttle open or • The accelerator may be depressed at any
releasing it; the system cannot apply braking to time to override the chosen cmising speed. If the SYSTEM OPERATION
slow the vehicle. system receives no new orders, it will remember
Most systems use vacuum to operate a the previous cmising speed and return to it when
the driver finishes accelerating. For any of the following conditions to occur,
throttle servo unit. The servo unit maintains a the vehicle must be moving above 25 mph and
desired speed by trapping vacuum when the • Failures in the cmise control may stem
the cruise control system switch must be
servo is at the desired position. The position of from electrical, mechanical and/or vacuum
switched ON. If either of these basics change,
the servo and the vehicle speed are overseen by problems within the cmise control system or any
the system will cease to operate.
the controller or cruise control module (CCM); combination of these.
this unit controls the input or release of vacuum p* The use of the speed control Is not Set and Coast
within the servo, thus adjusting the throttle to recommended when driving When the vehicle is at the desired speed,
maintain speed. conditions do not permit engage the SET/COAST button momentarily.
The some models usually older ones may use maintaining a constant speed. This button is usually at the end of the stalk and
an Electro-Motor Cmise System. The EMC uses These conditions may include is pushed inward to engage it. Vehicle speed will
an electric motor and connecting strap to vary heavy or varying traffic, winding be maintained within 1 mph of the speed the
the throttle angle according to directions from roads or slippery surfaces. vehicle was traveling when the button was
the CCM. The system is completely independent pushed. The system will maintain this speed
The main parts of the vacuum systems are the
of vacuum and allows smoother throttle until:
mode control switches, the controller (which
transitions.
may be the ECM, BCM, instmment panel cluster
Although the systems vary widely across
GM’s model line (component location, circuitry,
interaction of computers, etc.) all cmise control
units share certain common traits:
• The system will not engage until the vehicle
exceeds a minimum speed, usually 25 mph.
• The system provides several modes of
operation including cmise, coast, resume/
accelerate; most allow “tap up” and “tap
down”, an incremental increase or decrease in
set speed.
• All have a system ON/OFF switch; the •WHERE USED

system must be turned ON before it will

engage. Many have a pilot light on the dash FIG.13 Cruise control system operation
 CHASSIS ELECTRICAL 6-27
• The brake or clutch pedals move enough to signals from the controller. The servo consists of will be repeated, as required, until the speed
disengage the system. a vacuum operated diaphragm, a normally open correction brings the vehicle to the set speed.
• A system control switch is used to send a solenoid valve to vent the diaphragm chamber to Under normal road conditions, the vacuum
new message to the controller. atmosphere, a normally closed solenoid valve to valve will remain in a completely open position
• The system switch is turned OFF. connect the diaphragm chamber to the vacuum when vehicle speed has dropped 5 mph below
• The ignition is switched OFF. source, and a variable inductance position set speed. Likewise, if vehicle speed is 3 or
If only the brake or clutch pedal is moved, the sensor. Under normal operating conditions, the more mph over the set speed, such as down a
system disconnects the cruise function but controller reacts to 3 vehicle or system states. steep grade, the vent will go into full open
remembers the set speed and can return to it. position.
Pushing a system control button or turning the STEADY CRUISE STATE
When the cruise system is on and operating
system off removes memory of the previous Both vacuum and vent valves are closed or
with no input from the driver through the control
speed. sealed. The servo has a constant vacuum on the
switches, no correction to the speed will be
Once the vehicle is holding the desired speed, diaphragm and places no flow requirements on
made until the vehicle deviates ± V2 mph from
the SET/COAST button may be used to slow the the vacuum source. Vacuum is trapped in
the set speed.
vehicle. Holding the button in will disconnect the diaphragm chamber.
The servo incorporates a steel core which
system as long as the button is held. Once the VEHICLE LOSING SPEED moves within a coil. Its resulting variable
car has slowed to the new desired speed, The controller energizes the vacuum solenoid, inductance provides a continuous voltage signal
releasing the button will cause the system to opening the vacuum valve to the vacuum source. to the controller. The servo position signal is
hold the new, slower speed. This increases the vacuum level in the servo to constantly compared to the vehicle speed signal.
If the driver accelerates beyond the set increase the throttle opening. The vent remains This comparison determines if the pulses issued
cruising speed, pushing the SET/COAST button closed. have corrected the speed error or if additional
causes the system to maintain the new higher pulses are required. This comparison is also
speed. If the button is not engaged at the higher VEHICLE GAINING SPEED
used to lengthen the average pulse when it is not
speed, the system will maintain the previous set The controller de-energizes the vent solenoid,
enough to compensate for the speed error, such
speed after the vehicle slows. opening the vent valve to the atmosphere. This
as a steep grade.
reduces vacuum in the servo and allows the
Resume and Accelerate throttle return spring to decrease the throttle
opening. The vacuum inlet valve remains closed. EMC Controller/Actuator
The RESUME/ACCEL switch is used after
braking to tell the system to return to the When the controller senses an over or The Electro-Motor Cruise Control eliminates
previous speed. The switch must be moved underspeed condition, it will pulse the opening of the vacuum servo and incorporates the
momentarily into engagement - less than one the vent or vacuum valve. The controller pulse controller and actuator into a single unit. The
second for most systems. If held too long, the
system enters the ACCEL mode.
The ACCEL mode, when engaged, will
accelerate the vehicle from the present set
speed; when the switch is released, the new
(higher) speed will be set and maintained.
Tap-Up and Tap-Down
Many of the 6M systems are programmed to
obey momentary signals from the SET/COAST
and RESUME/ACCEL switches. If the SET/ INTERNAL
COAST switch is tapped or engaged for less than VIEW
one second, the controller will reduce the car
speed by 1 mph per tap. Similarly, if the
RESUME/ACCEL switch is momentarily
engaged, the set speed will increase by 1 mph TO VACUUM
TO VACUUM BRAKE
per tap. This is a particularly handy function for SUPPLY
RELEASE VALVE
fine tuning vehicle speed to prevailing limits,
weather or traffic conditions. 1 —SERVO
If either switch is held too long, the system 2 —VACUUM SOLENOID AND
VALVE (NORMALLY CLOSED)
enters either the COAST or ACCEL mode. When
3 —COIL
the driver next releases the switch, the system
4 —VARIABLE INDUCTANCE
will note and maintain the new speed.
POSITION SENSOR
5 —VENT SOLENOID AND VALVE
(NORMALLY OPEN)
SYSTEM COMPONENTS
6 —STEEL CORE
7 —THROTTLE ATTACHMENT

Vacuum Servo Unit FIG.14 Cruise control servo unit

The servo operates the throttle in response to
6-28 CHASSIS ELECTRICAL
back to a photocell in the optic head, causing a
low power speed signal to be sent to the buffer
for amplification and signal conditioning. The
switching transistor within the buffer provides
the 2000 pulses per mile (0.556 Hz/mph) speed
signal to the ECM and/or cruise control module.
PM GENERATOR
This device supplies the vehicle speed input to
the controller on some cars. Vehicle speed
information is provided to the controller by a
permanent magnet (PM) generator driven by the
transmission/transaxle. The PM generator
produces an AC sine wave signal of 4000 pulses
per mile or a signal frequency of 1.112 Hz/mph.
The signal is received by the buffer amplifier.
Through use of an integrator and Schmitt
Trigger, the signal is converted to square wave
1. Bracket
2. Cruise control DC. The buffer amplifier contains a divider circuit
module which can develop a 2000 pulse (0.556 Hz/mph)
3. Accelerator bracket as well as the 4000 pulse signal. Since cruise
4. Lock tab
control is not the only function requiring VSS
FIG.18 Cruise control module location and mounting - Cutlass Ciera shown input, these two signals are sent to various
control units on the vehicle. Depending on the
model, the speed signal may be used by the
control assembly consists of the electronic Integrated systems also receive input from the speedometer, the suspension control module or
controller board, a solenoid operated clutch, the neutral safety switch; many of these systems even the radio volume controller.
drum gear and strap (connected to the throttle receive a throttle position signal instead of servo
linkage) and a stepper motor with 3-phase wiring position signal. Cadillac products with DFI Vacuum Accumulator
and 4-pole stator. employ a vacuum bleed within the servo and do Found on most systems except those with
When the vehicle speed is set or changed, the not use a servo position sensor. diesel engines, the familiar bail-shaped vacuum
controller assembly adjusts throttle position by accumulator is used to maintain satisfactory
activating the stepper motor. The motor provides Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS)
cruise control performance in vehicles with low
rotation in either direction through the use of 3 OPTICAL VSS AND BUFFER AMPLIFIER manifold vacuum at normal road speeds. The
drive transistors. As the rotor turns, a pinion gear There are 2 types of VSS buffer amplifiers; accumulator is connected to the intake manifold
drives the drum gear assembly, causing the single or dual output The optic head portion of through a one-way check valve and “stores" the
strap to wind or unwind on the drum. The strap the VSS is located in the speedometer frame. A high vacuum level that is available during
pulls or releases the throttle linkage accordingly. reflective blade is attached to the speedometer periods of low engine loading. The system
If the system is turned off or deactivated for operates on accumulator vacuum when higher
cable/head assembly. The blade spins like a
any reason, the controller de-energizes the than manifold vacuum.
propeller, with its blades passing through a light
solenoid operated clutch. The spring on the
beam from a LED in the optic head. As each
clutch arm pushes the pinion away from the
blade enters the LED light beam, light is reflected
drum gear and a spring within the drum unwinds
the strap. The throttle linkage is released and
returns to the idle position until a new speed is
set by the operator.
Electronic Controller (Module)
The controller interprets the position of the
servo or electric motor, the position of the
control switches and the output of the speed
sensor. In response to these inputs, the
controller electrically signals the opening or
closing of the vent and vacuum solenoid valves
in the servo or the rotation of the actuator motor.
The control functions may be performed by 1 SPEED SENSOR 4 RETAINER
either a separate controller (stand alone system)
or through the engine control module (integrated 2 GASKET 5 TRANSMISSION HOUSING
system). The stand alone controller uses a 3 DRIVE GEAR 6 GOVERNOR HOUSING
quartz crystal to produce clock signals for the
integrated circuits within. The ECU can perform
FIG.15 Vehicle speed sensor
the same functions to control the system.
 CHASSIS ELECTRICAL 6-29
To Install:
4. Install the tubular retainer to the brake
pedal mounting bracket.
5. Press the brake pedal and install the
release switch into the retainer until fully seated
in the clips.
6. Connect the wiring and/or vacuum lines.
Adjust the switch.
Adjustment
1. Depress the brake pedal and check that the
release switch is fully seated in the clips.
2. Slowly pull the brake pedal back to the at-
rest position; the switch and valve assembly will
move within the clips to the adjusted position.
1 OPTIC HEAD 2 BUFFER 3 CONNECTOR
3. Measure pedal travel and check switch
FIG.16 PM Generator speed sensor engagement. The electric brake release switch
contacts must open at V8-V2 in. (3-13mm) of
pedal travel when measured at the centerline of
the pedal pad. The brake lights should illuminate
after another 1 2 3 */16 in. (5mm) of travel. The
System Service Electric Brake Release vacuum release should engage at 5/s-1 in. (16-
Precautions Switch and Vacuum 25mm) of pedal travel.
Release Valve
Vacuum Servo Unit
** CAUTION
Many vehicles are equipped with REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
SIR or air bag systems. Before
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
performing any diagnosis or repair
procedures, you must follow the 1. At the brake switch, remove either the 2
safety and disarming procedures. electrical connectors or the electrical connector * SEE FIG. 20
Failure to safely disable the system and the vacuum hose. 1. Disconnect the electrical connector and
may result In air bag deployment, 2. Remove the switch from the retainer. vacuum hoses at the servo.
possible Injury or un-needed 3. Remove the tubular retainer from the brake 2. Disconnect the actuating chain, cable or
repairs. pedal mounting bracket. rod from the servo.

• Never disconnect any electrical connection

with the ignition switch ON unless instructed to
do so in a test.
• Always wear a grounded wrist static strap
when servicing any control module or
component labeled with a Electrostatic
Discharge (ESD) sensitive device symbol.
• Avoid touching module connector pins.
• Leave new components and modules in the
shipping package until ready to install them.
• Always touch a vehicle ground after sliding
across a vehicle seat or walking across vinyl or
carpeted floors to avoid static charge damage.
• Never allow welding cables to lie on, near
or across any vehicle electrical wiring.
• Do not allow extension cords for power
tools or droplights to lie on, near or across any
vehicle electrical wiring.
• Do not operate the cruise control or the
engine with the drive wheels off the ground
unless specifically instructed to do so by a test
procedure.
6-30 CHASSIS ELECTRICAL
1.0mm) between the throttle stud and the end of
the bracket slot.
3. Install the retainer clip; make certain the
throttle is still at idle.
ROD WITH ADJUSTMENT HOLES
1. Inspect the rod to be sure it is securely
connected to the servo and throttle linkage; make
certain the throttle is at idle.
2. Install the retainer pin in the hole which
provides the least slack between the servo
bracket and the retainer.
3. Check the throttle; it must still be in the idle
position.
CHAIN AND CABLE
Chain at Throttle
1. Check for proper installation of cable
assembly. Inspect the throttle; it must be in the
idle position.
2. Install the chain in the swivel so that the
slack does not exceed Vz the diameter of the ball
stud.
3. Install the retainer on the swivel and make
sure the throttle has not move from idle.
Chain at Servo
ROD WITH SCREW ADJUSTER 1. Check for proper installation of cable
3. Remove the screws holding the vacuum 1. Inspect the rod assembly for proper assembly. Inspect the throttle; it must be in the
servo and solenoid unit to the bracket and attachment to the servo and throttle stud. Make idle position.
remove the unit. certain the throttle is at idle. 2. Install the cable on the third link of the
To install: 2. Adjust the slotted bracket or the rod to chain; adjust the jam nuts of the servo until there
4. Connect the large diameter brake release obtain a clearance of 0.02-0.04 in. (0.5- is no noticeable slack in the chain.
vacuum line to the servo unit. Connect the
vacuum hose from the vacuum control valve to
the servo unit.
5. Connect the actuating chain, rod or cable
to the servo.
6. Install the servo unit to the bracket; tighten
the screws to 12 inch lbs. (1.4 Nm).
7. Install the electrical connector to the servo.
8. Adjust the cable, rod or chain.
Vacuum System Linkage
Adjustment
i* Do not stretch cables or chains to
make pins fit or holes align. This
will prevent the engine from
returning to Idle.
CABLE TYPE ^ - VACUUM TANK
2- VACUUM
1. Check that the cable is properly installed FITTING-ENGINE
and that the throttle is closed to the idle position. 3- CAP (W/O A/C)
2. Pull the servo end of the cable toward the 4- VACUUM RELEASE
VALVE; BRAKE
linkage bracket of the servo. Place the servo PEDAL; AUTO
connector in one of the 6 holes in the bracket 5- VACUUM RELEASE
VALVE; BRAKE
which allows the least amount of slack and does PEDAL; MANUAL
not move the throttle linkage. 6- SERVO
3. Install the retainer clip. Check that the 7- CHECK VALVE
throttle linkage is still in the idle position. ENGINE COMPARTMENT

FIG.24 Vacuum schematic - cruise control

 CHASSIS ELECTRICAL 6-31
3. Tighten the jam nuts and check that the
throttle has not moved out of the idle position.

Electro-Motor Cruise
Module and Motor Unit

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

CRUISE CONTROL
t SEE FIG. 25 MODULE
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Disconnect the throttle cable from the
module ribbon.
3. Remove the retaining screws from the
module and remove the module.
4. Disconnect the electrical harness from the
module.
p* Do not attempt the repair the
module.
To install: FIG.25 Electro-motor system control module and motor - Gasoline shown diesel similar
5. Connect the wiring connector to the
module.
6. Install the module and secure the retaining
3. For diesel engines, move the cable conduit
screws.
7. Connect the cable to the module ribbon.
until the injection pump lever moves off the idle Multi-Function Lever
stop screw, then move the conduit just enough
Make certain the ribbon is not twisted; it must be
to return the lever to the idle stop screw. Hold
with Set/Coast and
flat and vertical. this position. Resume/Accel
8. Adjust the cable as needed. 4. While holding the cable exactly in position,
CABLE ADJUSTMENT press down firmly on the cable conduit lock until
1. Unlock the cable conduit (sheath) lock at it snaps in place. Do not let go of the cable until
the engine bracket. firmly locked. REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
2. For gasoline engines, move the cable 5. Inspect the throttle linkage for proper idle
conduit until the throttle plate just begins to open; position; if either the throttle plate or injection t SEE FIG. 27
move the cable in the opposite direction enough pump lever is not at idle (fully released), readjust 1. Disconnect the negative battery terminal.
to close the throttle but no more. Hold this the cable. 2. Disconnect cruise control switch
position. connector at the base of steering column, it may

CRUISE CONTROL SERVO

CABLE ASSEMBLY
RETAINER
SERVO BRACKET
T.V. CABLE V THROTTLE LEVER MUST BE IN THE IOLE
ACCELERATOR CABLE POSITION WITH ENGINE OFF.
THROTTLE BODY 2. PULL SERVO ASSEMBLY END OF CABLE TOWARD
BRAKE VACUUM HOSE THE SERVO BLADE.
LH. SHOCK TOWER 3. IF HOLE IN SERVO BLADE LINES UP WITH CABLE
2 N-m (18 LBS. IN.) PIN, INSTALL PIN IN THAT HOLE ANO INSTALL
6 N*m (54 LBS. IN.) RETAINER.
CAUTION DO NOT STRETCH CABLE AS THIS WILL 4'. IF HOLE DOES NOT ALIGN WITH THE PIN,
PREVENT ENGINE FROM RETURNING TO IDLE AND INSTALL PIN IN THE NEXT HOLE AWAY FROM
A VEHICLE CRASH COULD OCCUR. SERVO ASSEMBLY.

FiG.26 Cruise control servo servicing and adjustment - fuel injected V6 shown
6-32 CHASSIS ELECTRICAL
PERMANENT MAGNET TYPE
installation and adjustment of
SELF-ADJUSTING VACUUM RELEASE VALVE 1. Disconnect the wiring harness from the
1. INSTALL RETAINER.
2. WITH BRAKE PEOAL DEPRESSED. INSERT VALVE INTO speed sensor. If the sensor also contains the
TUBULAR RETAINER UNTIL VALVE SEATS ON RETAINER.
NOTE THAT AUDIBLE "CLICKS" CAN BE HEARD AS speedometer cable, remove the cable.
THREADED PORTION OF VALVE IS PUSHED THROUGH THE
RETAINER TOWARD THE BRAKE PEDAL. 2. Remove the retainer clip.
3. PULL BRAKE PEDAL FULLY REARWARD AGAINST PEDAL
STOP UNTIL AUDIBLE "CLICK" SOUNDS CAN NO LONGER 3. Carefully lift the sensor out of the
BE HEARD. VALVE WILL BE MOVED IN TUBULAR RETAINER
PROVIDING ADJUSTMENT. transmission.
«. RELEASE BRAKE PEDAL ANO THEN REPEAT STEP #3 TO
ASSURE THAT NO AUDIBLE "CLICK" SOUNDS REMAIN. 4. Remove the 0-ring.
1- VALVE ASSEMBLY ■ 3- SWITCH • STOP LAMP
VACUUM RELEASE AND CRUISE ELEC¬ To Install:
2- HOSE • VACUUM TRICAL RELEASE
RELEASE VALVE 4- RETAINER 5. Lubricate a new 0-ring with appropriate
TO SERVO 5- BRAKE PEDAL
8-BRAKE PEDAL
MOUNTING BRACKET
transmission fluid and install the ring on the
sensor.
FIG.27 Cruise control vacuum release valve service and adjustment 6. Install the sensor and secure the retaining
clip.
be necessary to remove an under dash panel or 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 7. Connect the speedometer cable if it was
trim piece for access. 2. Remove the horn pad. removed; connect the wiring harness. Make
3. Make sure lever is in CENTER or OFF 3. Remove the retainer and nut. certain the harness is routed clear of moving or
position. 4. Remove the steering wheel. hot components.
4. Pull lever straight out of retaining clip 5. Disconnect the electrical connectors.
within the steering column. 6. Remove the horn switch if necessary.
5. Attach mechanic’s wire or similar to the To install: Vactium Reservoir
connector; gently pull the harness through the 7. Install the horn switch if necessary.
column, leaving the pull wire in place. Connect the electrical connectors.
To install: 8. Install the steering wheel; tighten the nut to
6. Place the transmission selector in LOW 30 ft. lbs. (41 Nm).
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
or 1. Attach the mechanic’s wire to the 9. Install the retainer and clip.
connector. Gently pull the harness into place, 10. Install the horn pad. Disconnect the vacuum line, remove the
checking that the harness is completely clear of 11. Connect the negative battery cable. retaining screws and remove the reservoir.
any moving or movable components such as tilt- When reinstalling, tighten the retaining screws to
column, telescoping column, brake pedal 53 inch lbs. (6 Nm).
linkage, etc. Speed Sensor
7. Position the lever and push it squarely into
the retainer until it snaps in place.
8. Remove the mechanics’ wire and connect
Cruise Control Module
the cruise control harness connector. REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
9. Reinstall any panels or insulation which
were removed for access. REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
10. Connect the negative battery terminal.
OPTICAL TYPE WITH BUFFER
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
» SEE FIG.28
2. To gain access to the sensor and buffer
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
behind the speedometer, the instrument cluster
Set/Coast And Resume/ must be partially removed. When doing so,
2. The cruise control module is located on a
bracket mounted above the accelerator pedal.
Accel Switches on disconnect the harness connector at the rear of
Disconnect the wiring harness from the module.
Wheel the cluster; if the cluster is pulled too far outward
3. Remove the bracket and module assembly
with the harness attached, both may be
from the accelerator bracket.
damaged.
4. Release the lock tab and remove the
3. Disconnect the amplifier connector.
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 4. Remove the speed sensor attaching screw
module.
and remove the sensor through the opening in To install:
the base of the instrument panel. 5. Fit the module to its bracket and secure the
To Install: lock tab.
** CAUTION 5. Route the sensor wire connector and 6. Install the module assembly to the
harness through the opening in the base of the accelerator bracket.
If equipped with air bag (SIR)
instrument panel. 7. Connect the module wiring harness.
system, the system must be fully
6. Install the sensor on its bracket and install 8. Connect the negative battery cable.
disabled before performing repairs.
the retaining screw.
Follow safety procedures In Section
7. Connect the amplifier connector.
10. Failure to disarm the system
8. Reinstall the instrument cluster and
can result in personal Injury and/or
connect the electrical harness.
property damage.
9. Connect the negative battery cable.
 CHASSIS ELECTRICAL 6-33
3. Engage system by momentarily
depressing the SET button and releasing at
approximately 50 mph; remove foot from
accelerator.) Vehicle should maintain speed.
4. Push the RESUME/ACCEL switch and
hold. Vehicle should accelerate at a controlled
rate. Release slide to engage system at cruise
speed of approximately 55 mph. System should
now be set at this new speed and vehicle should
maintain that speed.
5. Depress brake pedal about Vz in. (13mm);
indicator light, if equipped, should go out,
confirming action of electric brake release
switch, and vehicle should start to slow down.
Allow the vehicle to slow to approximately 45
mph, using brakes if desired.
6. Momentarily push RESUME/ACCEL switch
and release. Vehicle should accelerate at a
car to highway speed. Depress the SET switch controlled rate and resume previously set speed
Cruise Control Basic button and release. System should remain of about 55 mph and maintain that speed. The
inoperative. indicator light (if equipped) should come on
Tests 2. Set cruise control system switch to ON. when slide switch is released.

PRELIMINARY CHECKS

Improper operation can be caused by any

combination of mechanical, electrical and
vacuum problems. In resolving any cruise Kent-Moore Tool Co.
28635 Mound Rd.
system operating problem, always insure there Warren, Ml 48092
are no bare, broken, or disconnected wires or 313-539-5330
any pinched, damaged, or disconnected vacuum
hoses. The servo and throttle linkage should
operate freely and smoothly.
Since any problem in this system may be due
to one or more causes, a quick visual inspection
should always be made before beginning
extended diagnosis. This can be done by
eliminating an obvious vacuum, mechanical or
Modal No. QC11
electrical problem. Start the engine and use a
finger or vacuum gauge to confirm vacuum at AVAILABILITY:
SPECMO Enterprises
the servo. Check the related fuse(s) and look for 2344 N. Woodward Ave.
loose or corroded harness connectors. Inspect Royal Oak, Ml 48073
the brake and clutch switches for loose wires or 313-399-5645
hoses; check that the switch plunger moves
smoothly and is not stuck in the disconnect
position. Inspect the throttle linkage from the
servo for binding, breakage or excess slack.
If the speedometer Is not
operating correctly, vehicles using
optic vehicle speed sensors will not
provide the correct speed signal to
the cruise control module.

ROAD TEST
FIG.29 Cruise control special diagnostic tools available
1. With the cruise control switch OFF, drive
6-34 CHASSIS ELECTRICAL
7. Depress SET/COAST button and hold. Cruise Set Speed High or Low systems. The checker connects to the harness in
Indicator light (if equipped) should go out. Coast place of the module; it allows manual system
1. Check vacuum hoses for proper routing,
to 50 mph. with button pressed. testing and can considerably reduce diagnostic
restrictions or leaks. Adjust or replace as
time. A test lamp may be required during some
8. Release SET/COAST button to engage required.
system at 50 mph; vehicle should maintain the tests.
2. Check servo linkage for excess slack and
new speed. Vehicles with an integrated cruise control
adjust, if necessary.
9. Check the tap-down feature. Depress SET/ system running through either the ECM or BCM
3. If no system problem is noted, replace the
COAST button for less than V2 second (tap). must be put into the diagnostic mode. Once
controller.
Vehicle speed should drop about 1 mph. Tap the engaged, the diagnostic mode will allow the
button a couple more times to check incremental Excessive Cruise Speed Loss On control module to display fault codes or
speed decreases. Hills messages regarding the area of failure. Each of
10. Check the tap-up feature. Actuate these fault codes direct the use a diagnostic
1. Check all the hoses for vacuum leaks.
RESUME/ACCEL for less than V2 second (tap). chart to isolate the fault.
2. Determine if the check valve to the vacuum
Vehicle speed should increase about 1 mph. Tap accumulator is functional. All systems rely on proper battery
the switch a couple more times to check voltage to operate. Insure battery Is
incremental speed increases. Cruise Tap*Up and Tap*Down correctly charged before beginning
11. If all functional conditions are met during If all other functions of cruise control are diagnostics. Do not allow battery to
this test, the regular driver may not be familiar operating correctly except tap-up and/or tap- drain during extended testing. Turn
with the correct operation of the cruise control down, the controller is faulty. system switch or ignition switch
system. OFF when not actively testing the
system. Involved testing and
Cruise System Surges SYSTEM TESTING
special tools are required for most
1. The servo and throttle linkages should testing. This would be best left to a
operate freely and smoothly. This linkage should A reliable digital volt-ohmmeter (DVOM) is professional shop with the
be adjusted if necessary. required for testing all systems. The use of tool necessary test equipment, as the
2. Check hose routing for pinches, leaks or J-34185, Cruise Control Quick Checker or its cost involed for the tools Is usually
restrictions. equivalent is recommended for vacuum operated more than the cost of the repairs.

RADIO

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 8. Install the instrument cluster trim plate. 5. If required, remove the inner to outer
9. Install the accessory trim plate. fender retaining screws.
10. Connect the negative battery cable. 6. If required, raise the vehicle and support it
t SEE FIG.30 safely; then remove the associated front wheel
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. assembly.
2. Remove the instrument panel insulator Power Antenna 7. Remove the lower rocker panel retaining
panel mounting screws enough to remove the screws, lower fender to body retaining bolt and
steering column trim cover. remove the lower rocker panel, as required.
3. Remove the ash tray, the ash tray 8. Remove the inner splash shield from the
assembly and the fuse block, then separate the REMOVAL & INSTALLATION fender, as required.
fuse block and the ash tray. Push forward to 9. Remove the upper antenna retaining nut,
access the cigarette lighter and the rear defogger using an appropriately tool.
switch. Because of the varied applications of power
10. Remove the antenna to bracket retaining
4. Disconnect the lighter and the defogger antennas, the following general power antenna
bolts, then remove the antenna.
switch connectors. removal and installation procedures are outlined.
To Install:
5. Remove the cigarette lighter, the glove These removal steps can be altered as
11. Fit the antenna into position, then loosely
box, the instrument panel center trim panel necessary.
install the antenna gasket and upper nut.
mounting nuts and the trim panel enough to FRONT MOUNTED TYPE 12. Loosely install the antenna to bracket
remove the radio. 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. retaining bolts.
6. Remove the radio mounting screws and 2. Remove the instmment panel sound 13. Tighten the upper antenna retaining nut,
the radio, by disconnecting the electrical absorber pad. using the appropriately tool, then tighten the
connectors. 3. Disconnect the antenna lead-in and antenna to bracket retaining bolts.
To Install: harness connector from the relay assembly. 14. Complete installation in the reverse order
6. Install the radio in the vehicle. 4. Apply masking tape to the rear edge of the of the removal procedure.
7. Connect the electrical connectors. Install fender and door. 15. Apply silicone grease to the harness
the radio attaching bolts. connector before reconnecting.
 CHASSIS ELECTRICAL 6-35

1. Radio
2. Screw on side of radio fits
here
3. Retainer
4. Grille
5. Speaker
6. Front speaker assembly
7. Front speaker assembly
8. Rear speaker wire
9. Antenna
10. Rear speakers
11. Front speakers
12. I.P. harness
13. Receiver assembly
14. I.P. harness

FIG.30 Radio removal and installation - Buick shown others similar

6-36 CHASSIS ELECTRICAL
16. Check the operation of the antenna mast. 4. Remove the upper antenna nut and bezel 8. Install the nut and bezel to the antenna and
Reset the clock, if required. from the antenna, using an appropriately tool. mounting bracket retaining screws.
5. Remove the lead-in cable and wiring 9. Apply silicone grease to the harness
REAR MOUNTED TYPE connector. connector before reconnecting.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 6. Remove the antenna assembly from the 10. Install the trim panel and reconnect the
2. From inside the trunk, remove the trim vehicle. negative battery cable.
panel from either the right or left rear wheel area. To Install: 11. Check the operation of the antenna mast.
3. Remove the antenna mounting bracket 7. Fit the antenna to the vehicle, then connect Reset the clock, if required.
retaining screws. the lead-in cable.

WINDSHIELD WIPERS

Blade and Arm

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

t SEE FIG. 31
Wiper blade replacement procedures are
detailed in Section 1.
Removal of the wiper arms requires the use of
a special tool, G.M. J8966 or its equivalent.
Versions of this tool are generally available in FIG.31 Removing wiper arm using GM tool J-8966
auto parts stores.
1. Insert the tool under the wiper arm and
lever the arm off the shaft.
2. Disconnect the washer hose from the arm
(if so equipped). Remove the arm.
3. Installation is in the reverse order of
removal.
The proper park position is at the top of the
blackout line on the glass. If the wiper arms and
blades were in the proper position prior to
removal, adjustment should not be required.

ADJUSTMENT

The only adjustment for the wiper arms is to

remove an arm from the transmission shaft,
rotate the arm the required distance and
direction and then install the arm back in position
so it is in line with the blackout line on the glass.
The wiper motor must be in the park position.
The correct blade-out wipe position on the
driver’s side is 13/32 in. (28mm) from the tip of
the blade to the left windshield pillar molding.
WINDSHIELD WIPER
The correct blade-down wipe position on the WASHER PUMP
passenger side of the car is in line with the AND MOTOR ASSEMBLY
blackout line at the bottom of the glass. ATTACHING
BOLTS
VIEW A

FIG.33 Wiper motor assembly Installation

 CHASSIS ELECTRICAL 6-37
Wiper Motor
DRIVE
PiN
MUST
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION BE
IN
THIS
I SEE FIGS. 33 & 34 OPEN
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. NOTE: WHEN AREA
ASSEMBLING
2. Remove the wiper arms.
COVER, MAKE
3. Remove the cowl cover. SURE DRIVE PIN
4. Loosen (but do not remove) the drive link- IS IN LARGE
to-crank arm attaching nuts and detach the drive ANGLED OPEN
link from the motor crank arm. AREA OF CAM.
5. Disconnect the wiper motor electrical
connector.
6. Remove the wiper motor attaching botts.
7. Remove the wiper motor, guiding the
crank arm through the hole.
To install:
8. Insert the wiper motor, guiding the crank
arm through the hole. 1. Wiper in park
9. Guide the crank arm through the opening in position
the body and then tighten the mounting bolts to 2. Drive pin
3. Screw 18 inch lbs. (2
4-6 ft. lbs. Nm)
10. Install the drive link to the crank arm with
the motor in the park position.
11. Install the wiper motor attaching bolts. FIG.34 Pulse wiper system with cover removed
12. Connect the electrical connectors.
6-38 CHASSIS ELECTRICAL
13. Connect the wiper arm drive link to the
crank arm.
14. Install the cowl cover.
15. Install the wiper arms.
16. Connect the negative battery cable.

Linkage

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

+ SEE FIGS. 35-41

1. Remove the wiper arms.
2. Remove the shroud top vent grille.
3. Loosen (but do not remove) the drive link-
to-crank arm attaching nuts.
4. Unscrew the linkage-to-cowl panel
retaining screws and remove the linkage.
5. Installation is in the reverse order of
removal.

1. Cover
2. Park switch
3. Drive shaft package
4. Gear package
5. Crank arm

FIG.38 Wiper assembly explode view

 CHASSIS ELECTRICAL 6-39

FIG.40 Wiper and washer switch check chart - 6000 wagon shown

7 8 9 1 2 3 4 5 6
WIPER MOTOR
/fnL
CHECK FOR MOTOR OPERATION BEFORE
<il3>
REMOVING FROM VEHICLE. DISCONNECT LO
ALL WIRING FROM WIPER AND PERFORM SPEED rti 12V( +)
THE FOLLOWING CHECKS IN THIS ORDER:
7 8 9 1 2 3 4 5 6
S to CD
*— cm co ** in (D
* 4fc % 4k Ik *
Ik 4fc . IrU v o
<TO>
c
HI if
SPEED 777 12V(+)

7 8 9 1 2 3 4 5 6

iTTl
<S>
PARK
777
1
12V( + )

7 8 9 2 3 4 5 6

JoL Fni
<SS>
PULSE * ' 500 K
777
12V(+)
12V(+)

*IF A STANDARD TYPE MOTOR IS WIRED FOR THE

PULSE CHECK, THE PARK RELAY WILL CLICK
SHUT BUT THERE WILL BE NO OBSERVABLE
FIG.41 Wiper on car testing - 6000 wagon shown MOTOR ACTION.
6-40 CHASSIS ELECTRICAL
INSTRUMENTS AND SWITCHES

To Install: 5. Remove instrument cluster trim pad.

Instrument Cluster 11. Install the gauge cluster, connect the 6. Remove ash tray, retainer and fuse block,
electrical connectors and install the retaining disconnect wires as necessary.
screws. 7. Remove headlight switch knob and
12. Position the steering column and install instrument panel trim plate. Disconnect electrical
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION the retaining bolts. connectors of any accessory switches in trim
13. Connect the parking brake cable at the plate.
lever. 8. Remove cluster assembly and disconnect
Century 14. Put the gear selector in L. Install the speedometer cable, PRNDL and cluster
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. instrument panel trim plate. electrical connectors.
2. Disconnect the speedometer cable and 15. Install the steering column trim plate. To install:
pull it through the firewall. 16. Install the shift indicator cable clip. 9. Install cluster assembly and connect
3. Remove the left side hush panel retaining 17. Install the right side hush panel retaining speedometer cable, PRNDL and cluster
screws and nut. screws and nut. electrical connectors.
4. Remove the right side hush panel retaining 18. Install the left side hush panel retaining 10. Install headlight switch knob and
screws and nut. screws and nut. instrument panel trim plate. Connect electrical
5. Remove the shift indicator cable clip. 19. Pull the speedometer cable through the connectors of any accessory switches in trim
6. Remove the steering column trim plate. firewall and connect to the speedometer. plate.
7. Put the gear selector in L. Remove the 20. Connect the negative battery cable. 11. Install ash tray, retainer and fuse block,
retaining screws and gently pull out the connect electrical connectors.
instrument panel trim plate.
Celebrity 12. Install instrument cluster trim pad.
8. Disconnect the parking brake cable at the 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 13. On non-air conditioned vehicles, raise the
lever by pushing it forward and sliding it from its 2. Remove instrument panel hush panel. cover with vent cables attached and install
slot. 3. Remove vent control housing, as required. steering column trim cover screws. On air
9. Unbolt and lower the steering column. 4. On non-air conditioning vehicles, remove conditioned vehicles, install trim cover and
10. Remove the gauge cluster retaining steering column trim cover screws and lower attaching screws.
screws. Pull the cluster out far enough to cover with vent cables attached. On air 14. If removed, install vent control housing.
disconnect any wires. Remove the instrument conditioning vehicles, remove trim cover 15. Install instrument panel hush panel.
cluster. attaching screws and remove cover. 16. Connect the negative battery cable.
 CHASSIS ELECTRICAL 6-41

sx_Ji£-
VIEW A

FIG.44 6000 instrument panel removal

6-42 CHASSIS ELECTRICAL
Ciera and Cruiser 10. Pull instrument panel assembly out far
enough to disconnect ignition switch, headlight
Speedometer
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Remove left instrument panel trim pad. dimmer switch and turn signal switch.
2. Remove instrument panel cluster trim Disconnect all other accessory wiring and
cover. vacuum lines necessary to remove instrument
panel assembly.
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
3. Disconnect speedometer cable at
transaxle or cruise control transducer, if 11. Remove instrument panel assembly with
equipped. wiring harness.
To Install: Century
4. Remove steering column trim cover.
5. Disconnect shift indicator clip from 12. Install instrument panel assembly with 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
steering column shift bowl. wiring harness. 2. Remove the left side trim plate.
6. Remove 4 screws attaching cluster 13. Connect ignition switch, headlight 3. Remove the instrument cluster housing
assembly to instrument panel. dimmer switch and turn signal switch. Connect screws. Remove the instrument cluster. If the
7. Pull assembly out far enough to reach all other accessory wiring and vacuum lines. vehicle is equipped with tilt-wheel steering,
behind cluster and disconnect speedometer 14. Install upper and lower instrument panel working room can be gained by removing the
cable. retaining screws, nuts and bolts. tilt-wheel cover.
8. Remove cluster assembly. 15. Connect neutral switch and brake light 4. Remove the speedometer lens screws and
switch. Install the radio, if equipped, and install remove the speedometer lens.
To Install:
center instrument panel trim plate. 5. Disconnect the speedometer cable by
9. Install the cluster assembly.
10. Connect the speedometer cable. 16. Connect chassis harness behind left pushing in on the retaining clip and pulling back
lower instrument panel and ECM connectors on the cable.
11. Install the 4 screws attaching cluster
behind glove box. Connect instrument panel 6. Remove the screws holding the
assembly to instrument panel.
12. Connect shift indicator clip to steering harness at cowl. speedometer to the instrument and remove the
column shift bowl. 17. Connect temperature control cable, inner- speedometer assembly.
to-outer air conditioning wire harness and inner- To Install:
13. Install the steering column trim cover.
to-outer air conditioning vacuum harness, if 7. Install the speedometer assembly and the
14. Connect the speedometer cable at the
equipped. screws holding the speedometer assembly to
transaxle or cruise control transducer, if
18. Raise the steering column and install the instrument panel.
equipped.
retaining bolts. 8. Connect the speedometer cable.
15. Install the instrument panel cluster trim
cover. 19. Install right side and left side hush panels, 9. Install the speedometer lens and retaining
steering column trim cover and connect parking screws.
16. Install the left instrument panel trim pad.
brake cable and vent cables, if equipped. 10. Install the instrument cluster housing and
17. Connect the negative battery cable.
20. Install the instrument cluster lens. retaining screws. If equipped with tilt-wheel
6000 21. Install the screws holding the instrument steering and the tilt-wheel cover was removed,
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable, and cluster to the instrument panel carrier. replace the cover.
remove the center and left side lower instrument 22. Install the center and left side lower 11. Install the left side trim plate.
panel trim plate. instrument panel trim plate. 12. Connect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove the screws holding the instrument 23. Connect the negative battery cable.
Celebrity
cluster to the instrument panel carrier.
3. Remove the instrument cluster lens to gain 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
access to the speedometer head and gauges. Console 2. Remove the cluster trim panel.
4. Remove right side and left side hush 3. Remove the cluster lens screws. Remove
panels, steering column trim cover and the cluster lens.
disconnect parking brake cable and vent cables, 4. Remove the speedometer-to-cluster
if equipped. REMOVAL & INSTALLATION attaching screws. Remove the speedometer
5. Remove steering column retaining bolts from the instrument cluster.
and drop steering column. 5. Disconnect the speedometer cable and
1. Remove the shifter knob from the shifter remove the speedometer assembly.
6. Disconnect temperature control cable,
by removing the retaining screw at the back of To Install:
inner-to-outer air conditioning wire harness and the knob.
inner-to-outer air conditioning vacuum harness, 6. Position the speedometer assembly and
2. Remove the screws at the sides and front connect the speedometer cable.
if equipped.
of the console.
7. Disconnect chassis harness behind left 7. Install the speedometer-to-instrument
3. Open the console box and remove the cluster and install the attaching screws.
lower instrument panel and ECM connectors retaining screw inside the box.
behind glove box. Disconnect instrument panel 8. Install the cluster lens and attaching
4. Remove the ashtray at the rear of the screws.
harness at cowl. console and remove the retaining screw behind
8. Remove center instrument panel trim 9. Install the cluster trim panel.
the ashtray.
plate, radio, if equipped, and disconnect neutral 10. Connect the negative battery cable.
5. Slide the console rearward slightly, then lift
switch and brake light switch. it over the shifter. Ciera and Cruiser
9. Remove upper and lower instrument panel
6. To install, reverse the above process. 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
retaining screws, nuts and bolts.
2. Remove the instrument cluster assembly.
 CHASSIS ELECTRICAL 6-43
ZSi

3. Remove the vehicle speed sensor screw 11. Install the center and left lower trim 3. Remove the turn signal actuator arm, the
from the rear of the speedometer. Remove the plates. lever and the hazard flasher button.
vehicle speed sensor, if equipped. 12. Connect the negative battery cable. 4. Remove the turn signal switch screws, the
4. Remove the speedometer lens screws and lower steering column trim panel and the
remove the speedometer lens. Remove the steering column bracket bolts.
bezel. Speedometer Cable 5. Disconnect the turn signal switch and the
5. Remove the screw that holds the wiper switch connectors.
speedometer to the instrument cluster. 6. Pull the turn signal rearward 6-8 in. (152-
6. Remove the speedometer head by pulling 203mm), then remove the key buzzer switch and
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
forward. Disconnect’the speedometer cable by the cylinder lock.
prying gently on the retainer and pulling the 7. Remove and pull the steering column
speedometer cable from the speedometer head. housing rearward, then remove the housing
Removing the instrument cluster
To install: will give better access to the cover screw.
7. Position the speedometer head and speedometer cable, 8. Remove the wiper switch pivot and the
connect the speedometer cable. t SEE FIG. 45 switch.
8. Install the screw that holds the 9. To install, reverse the removal procedures.
speedometer to the instrument cluster. 1. Remove the instrument cluster.
9. Install the speedometer lens and attaching 2. Slide the cable out from the casing. If the 1987 and later
screws. Install the bezel. cable is broken, the casing will have to be 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
10. Install the vehicle speed sensor and the unscrewed from the transaxle and the broken 2. Remove the steering wheel and turn signal
attaching screw at the rear of the speedometer. piece removed from that end. switch. It may be necessary to first remove the
11. Install the instrument cluster assembly. 3. Before installing a new cable, slip a piece column mounting nuts and remove the 4 bracket-
12. Connect the negative battery cable. of cable into the speedometer and spin it to-mast jacket screws, then separate the bracket
between your fingers in the direction of normal from the mast jacket to allow the connector clip
6000 rotation. If the mechanism sticks or binds, the on the ignition switch to be pulled from the
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. speedometer should be repaired or replaced. column assembly.
2. Remove the center and left lower trim 4. Inspect the casing. If it is cracked, kinked, 3. Tag and disconnect the washer/wiper
plates. or broken, the casing should be replaced. switch lower connector.
3. Remove the screws holding the instrument 5. Slide a new cable into the casing, engaging 4. Remove the screws attaching the column
cluster assembly to the dash assembly. Remove the transaxle end securely. Sometimes it is housing to the mast jacket. Be sure to note the
the instrument cluster. easier to unscrew the casing at the transaxle position of the dimmer switch actuator rod for
4. Remove the instrument cluster lens end, install the cable into the transaxle fitting, and reassembly in the same position. Remove the
screws. Remove the instrument cluster lens. screw the casing back into place. Install the column housing and switch as an assembly.
5. Remove the screws holding the instrument cluster.
Certain tilt and travel columns are
speedometer to the instrument cluster. Remove equipped with a removable plastic
the speedometer. cover on the column housing. This
6. Disconnect the speedometer cable from Wiper Switch provides access to the wiper switch
the rear of the speedometer. without removing the entire column
To install: housing.
7. Connect the speedometer cable at the rear REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
of the speedometer. 5. Turn upside down and use a drift to
8. Install speedometer and the screws remove the pivot pin from the washer/wiper
holding the speedometer to the instrument switch. Remove the switch.
1986 and early To install:
cluster.
t SEE FIGS. 40 to 49 6. Place the switch into position in the
9. Install the instrument cluster lens and
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. housing. Install the pivot pin.
attaching screws.
2. Remove the steering wheel, the cover and 7. Position the housing onto the mast jacket
10. Install the instrument cluster and the
the lock plate assembly. and attach by installing the screws. Install the
screws holding the instrument cluster assembly
to the dash assembly. dimmer switch actuator rod in the same position
as noted when removed. Check switch
operation.
8. Reconnect lower end of the switch
assembly.
9. Install the ignition switch connector clip to
the column assembly.
10. Install the mast jacket to the bracket.
11. If removed, install the column mounting
nuts and the retaining bolts.
12. Install the turn signal switch and steering
wheel.
13. Connect the negative battery cable.
6-44 CHASSIS ELECTRICAL
PUNCH

REMOVE AND
INSTALL SECTOR

KEY RELEASE COLUMN KEY RELEASE COLUMN

FIG.46 Windshield wiper switch service - models without tilt wheel

Headlight Switch
♦ SEE FIGS. 49 and 50

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

Century
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove the instrument panel trim plate.
3. Remove the left side instrument panel
switch trim panel by removing the 3 screws and
gently rocking the panel out.
4. Remove the three screws and pull the
switch straight out.
To Install:
1. Multi-function lever 5. Install the switch and the 3 attaching
2. Insulator
3. Cruise control wire
screws.
harness and 6. Install the left side instrument panel switch
connector trim panel and 3 attaching screws.
4. Mechanics' wire or 7. Install the instrument panel trim plate.
similar
8. Connect the negative battery cable.

FIG.48 Replacing the multi-function lever, place harness carefully

 CHASSIS ELECTRICAL 6-45
Combination Switch

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

Remove the steering wheel and trim cover.
2. Loosen the cover screws. Pry the cover
upward and remove it from the shaft.
FIG.50 Headlight switch - Ciera shown
3. Position U-shaped lock plate compressing
tool J-23653—C on the end of the steering shaft
and compress the lockplate by turning the shaft
Celebrity 7. Install the switch and bracket assembly to
nut clockwise. Pry the wire snapring from the
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. the instrument panel and install the attaching
shaft groove.
2. Remove the headlight switch knob. bolts.
4. Remove the tool and lift the lock plate off
3. Remove the instrument panel trim pad. 8. Install the left instrument panel trim plate.
the shaft.
4. Unbolt the switch mounting plate from the 9. Install the headlight rod and knob. Install
5. Slip the canceling cam, upper bearing
instrument panel carrier. the steering column trim cover.
preload spring and thrust washer off the shaft.
5. Disconnect the wiring from the switch. 10. Connect the negative battery cable.
6. Remove the turn signal lever. Push the
6. Remove the switch.
flasher knob in and unscrew it. Remove the
To install:
button retaining screw and remove the button,
7. Install the switch. Dimmer Switch spring and knob.
8. Connect the wiring to the switch.
7. Pull the switch connector out the mast
9. Install the bolts attaching the switch
jacket and tape the upper part to facilitate switch
mounting plate to the instrument panel carrier.
removal. Attach a long piece of wire to the turn
10. Install the instrument panel trim pad. REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
signal switch connector. When installing the turn
11. Install the headlight switch knob.
signal switch, feed this wire through the column
12. Connect the negative battery cable.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. first, and then use this wire to pull the switch
Ciera and Cruiser 2. Remove the steering wheel. Remove the connector into position. If equipped with tilt-
trim cover. wheel, place the turn signal and shifter housing
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
3. Remove the turn signal switch assembly. in the lowest position and remove the harness
2. Remove the left side instrument panel trim
4. Remove the ignition switch stud and cover.
pad.
screw. Remove the ignition switch. 8. Remove the 3 switch mounting screws.
3. Unbolt the switch from the instrument
5. Remove the dimmer switch actuator rod Remove the switch by pulling it straight up while
panel.
by sliding it from the switch assembly. guiding the wiring harness cover through the
4. Pull the switch rearward and remove it.
6. Remove the dimmer switch bolts and column.
To Install:
remove the dimmer switch. To install:
5. Install the switch and connect the electrical
To install: 9. Install the replacement switch by working
connectors.
7. Install the dimmer switch and attaching the connector and cover down through the
6. Install the bolts attaching the switch to the
bolts. housing and under the bracket. If equipped with
instrument panel.
8. Install the dimmer switch actuator rod by tilt-wheel, work the connector down through the
7. Install the left side instrument panel trim
sliding it into the switch assembly. housing, under the bracket and install the
pad.
9. Adjust the dimmer switch by depressing harness cover.
8. Connect the negative battery cable.
the switch slightly and inserting a 3/32 in. drill bit 10. Install the switch mounting screws and
6000 into the adjusting hole. Push the switch up to the connector on the mast jacket bracket. Install
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. remove any play and tighten the dimmer switch the column-to-dash trim plate.
2. Remove the steering column trim cover adjusting screw. 11. Install the flasher knob and the turn signal
and headlight rod and knob by reaching behind 10. Install the ignition switch, stud and lever.
the instrument panel and depressing the lock tab. screw. 12. With the turn signal lever in the middle
3. Remove the left instrument panel trim 11. Install the turn signal switch assembly. position and the flasher knob out, slide the thrust
12. Install the trim cover. Install the steering washer, upper bearing preload spring and
plate.
4. Unbolt and remove the switch and bracket wheel. canceling cam onto the shaft.
13. Connect the battery negative cable. 13. Position the lock plate on the shaft and
assembly from the instrument panel.
press it down until a new snapring can be
5. Loosen the bezel and remove the switch
from the bracket. inserted in the shaft groove. Always use a new
snapring when assembling.
To install:
14. Install the cover and the steering wheel.
6. Install the switch to the bracket and install
Connect the battery negative cable.
the bezel.
6-46 CHASSIS ELECTRICAL
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 10. Install the instrument panel or trim plate.
Clock 11. Reconnect the negative battery cable.

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Remove the left side instrument panel or GRID LINE
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION accessory trim plate, as required.
3. On some vehicles, it may be necessary to
remove the steering column collar, steering t SEE FIGS. 51 to 53
1. Remove the instrument panel cluster
column opening filler and cluster trim plate.
bezel. Testing
4. Remove the ash tray and sound insulator,
2. Remove the clock retaining screws and 1. Start the engine and pull out the defogger
remove the clock. as required.
5. On some vehicles, it may be necessary to switch knob.
remove the radio control knobs, air conditioning/ 2. Using a test lamp, ground the end and
heater control and/or cables. touch the probe to each grid line. The test lamp
Back-up Light Switch 6. Remove the rear defogger control retaining should operate as indicated.
screws or clip and remove the switch. 3. If the test lamp remains bright at both ends
7. Disconnect the switch electrical of the grid lines, check for a loose ground.
connector. The range zones may vary slightly
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
To install: from 1 glass to another; but, the
8. Reconnect the electrical connector to the test lamp brilliance will decrease
switch. proportionately as it is moved from
Column Mounted 9. Fit the switch to the instrument panel and left to right on the grid line.
1. Working from underneath the dashboard, install the retaining screws.
locate the back-up light switch on the steering
column and remove the wiring harness.
2. Then pull downward and remove the
switch from the steering column.
To install:
3. Apply the parking brake and place the gear
select lever in neutral.
4. Align the actuator on the switch with the
hole in the shift tube.
5. Position the rearward portion of the switch
(connector side) to fit into the cutout in the lower
jacket.
6. Push up on the front of the switch, the two
tangs on the housing back will snap into place in
the rectangular holes in the jacket.
7. Adjust the switch by moving the gear
selector to park. The main housing and the back
should ratchet, providing proper switch
adjustment.

Rear Defogger System

All systems operate on 12 volts. An
instrument panel mounted switch with an
integral indicator lamp is used to turn the system
ON.
Certain conditions such as outside
temperature, vehicle speed, atmospheric
pressure and even the number of passengers
inside the vehicle affects the length of time
required to remove fog from the glass.
The defogger is designed to turn OFF after
approximately 10 minutes of operation. If the
defogger is turn ON again, it will only operate for
approximately 5 minutes. You can however, turn
the system OFF before the time is up by turning FIG.52 Applying repair material to a broken grid wire
the defogger switch or ignition switch OFF.
 CHASSIS ELECTRICAL 6-47
3. Clean the area to be repaired. Buff with
steel wool and wipe clean with a damped cloth
with alcohol.
4. Position a strip of tape above and below
the grid line area to be repair.
5. Repair the grid line break using defogger
repair kit (Part 1052858 or equivalent) and
follow the manufacturer’s instructions.
6. After the grid line has been repaired,
carefully remove the strips of tape.
7. Apply heat, using a heat gun, to the
repaired area for approximately 1-2 minutes. A
minimum temperature of 300°F (149°C) is
required.
r+ To avoid damage to the Interior
FIG.53 Using a heat gun to dry repair. Do NOT over heat the glass trim, protect the trim near the area
to be repair. Allow the repair
materials to cure for at least 24
4. If an abnormal reading is observed by the Repair hours. Do not operate the unit until
test lamp on any grid line, place the test lamp such time.
1. Locate the break(s) on the grid line(s) and
probe on the left of that bus bar and move the
mark the outside of the glass, using a grease 8. Test the rear defogger operation to verified
probe toward the right until the test lamp goes
pencil. proper operation.
out. This will indicate a break in the continuity on
2. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
that grid line.

LIGHTING

Take care not to squeeze the bulbs too tightly, 2. Disconnect the twist lock socket from the
they can break in you hand and give a very bad Signal and Marker lens housing.
cut. If the bulbs are stuck, spray them with
penetrating oil and allow them to soak for a few
Lights To remove the bulb, turn the twist
lock socket (at the rear of the
minutes. There are also tools on the market for housing) counterclockwise V* turn,
gripping and removing bulbs. then remove the socket with the
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION bulb; replace the bulb If defective.
3. To install, reverse the removal procedures.
Headlights 1. Remove the headlight bezel mounting
screws and the bezel.
2. Disconnect the twist lock socket from the
lens housing.
Rear Turn Signal, Brake
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION and Parking Lights
3. Remove the parking light housing.
r* To remove the bulb, turn the twist
1. Remove the headlamp trim panel attaching
lock socket at the rear of the
screws.
housing) counterclockwise V4 turn,
2. Remove the headlamp bulb retaining REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
then remove the socket with the
screws. Do not touch the two headlamp aiming
bulb; replace the bulb If defective.
screws, at the top and side of the retaining ring,
or the headlamp aim will have to be readjusted. 4. To install, reverse the removal procedures. 1. Remove the tail light panel screws and the
3. Pull the bulb and ring forward the separate panel.
them. Unplug the electrical connector from the 2. Disconnect the twist lock socket from the
rear of the bulb. Side Marker Lights lens housing.
4. Plug the new bulb into the electrical To remove the bulb, turn the twist
connector. Install the bulb into the retaining ring lock socket (at the rear of the
and install the ring and bulb. Install the trim REMOVAL & INSTALLATION housing) counterclockwise turn,
panel. then remove the socket with the
1. Remove the marker light housing screws bulb; replace the bulb if defective.
and the housing. 3. To install, reverse the removal procedures.
6-48 CHASSIS ELECTRICAL

FRONT END PNL

FENDER ASM

BEZEL

FRONT END PNL

FENDER VALANCE
PANEL

FRT END PNL

NUT

FRONT END SECTION IA-AI

PANEL

FIG.54 Headlamp assembly service

 CHASSIS ELECTRICAL 6-49
BULB RATING
APPLICATION NO. QUANTITY CANDLEPOWER

FRONT LAMPS
Headlamp - Inner—Std. 4651 2 50W
- Inner-Halogen H4651 2 50W
- Outer 4652 2 60/40W
. Park 194NA 2 1.5CP
Park & Turn Signal 2057NA 2 1.5/24
Sidemarker 194 2 2

REAR LAMPS
Backup - Sedan 2057 2 2/32
- Wagon 1156 2 32
License 194 1 2
Sidemarker 194 2 2
Tail - Sedan 194 2 2
Tail, Stop & Turn Signal 2057 4 2/32
High Mounted Stop - Sedan 1156 1 32
- Wagon 557 2 21
212-2 1 12
INTERIOR ILLUMINATION
A/C - Heater Control 194 1 2
Ash Tray 168 1 3
Auto Trans - Console 168 1 3
Courtesy Lamp - Front 194 2 2
- Console 212 2 1 6
Dome Lamp 561 1 12
Glove Box 194 1 2
Instrument Cluster 161/194 2/3 1/2
Luggage Compt. - Sedan 1003
- Wagon 561 1 12
Radio Dial Exc. Graphic Equalizer 194 1 2
Graphic Equalizer 37 2 0.5
Reading Lamp 906 2 6
Underhood Lamp 93 1 15
WARNING LIGHTS & INDICATORS
Brake 194 1 2
Service Engine Soon 194 1 2
Choke 194 1 2
High Beam 194 1 2
Low Fuel 194 1 2
Oil 194 1 2
Seat Belts 194 1 2
Tailgate Ajar 194 1 2
Temperature 194 1 2
Turn Signal 194 2 2
Upshift 194 1 2
Volts 194 1 2
6-50 CHASSIS ELECTRICAL

TRAILER WIRING

Wiring the car for towing is fairly easy. There Determine the equipment on your trailer and local electronics supply house and buy tour
are a number of good wiring kits available and buy the wiring kit necessary. The kit will contain diodes to wire in series with the brake and turn
these should be used, rather than trying to all the wires needed, plus a plug adapter set signal bulbs. Diodes will isolate the brake and
design your own. All trailers will need brake which included the female plug, mounted on the turn signals. The choice is yours. The isolation
lights and turn signals as well as tail lights and bumper or hitch, and the male plug, wired into, units are simple and quick to install, but far more
side marker lights. Most states require extra or plugged into the trailer harness. expensive than the diodes. The diodes, however,
marker lights for overly wide trailers. Also, most When installing the kit, follow the require more work to install properly, since they
states have recently required back-up lights for manufacturer’s instructions. The color coding of require the cutting of each bulb’s wire and
trailers, and most trailer manufacturers have the wires is standard throughout the industry. soldering in place of the diode.
been building trailers with back-up lights for One point to note, some domestic vehicles, One final point, the best kits are those with a
several years. and most imported vehicles, have separate turn spring loaded cover on the vehicle mounted
Additionally, some Class I, most Class II and signals. On most domestic vehicles, the brake socket. This cover prevents dirt and moisture
just about all Class III trailers will have electric lights and rear turn signals operate with the same from corroding the terminals. Never let the
brakes. bulb. For those vehicles with separate turn vehicle socket hang loosely. Always mount it
Add to this number an accessories wire, to signals, you can purchase an isolation unit so securely to the bumper or hitch.
operate trailer internal equipment or to charge that the brake lights won’t blink whenever the For more Information on towing a
the trailer’s battery, and you can have as many turn signals are operated, or, you can go to your trailer please refer to Section 1.
as seven wires in the harness.

CIRCUIT PROTECTION

Fuses
Fuses (located on a swing down unit near the
steering column or in the glove box) protect all
the major electrical systems in the car. In case of
an electrical overload, the fuse melts, breaking
the circuit and stopping the flow of electricity.
If a fuse blows, the cause should be
investigated and corrected before the installation
of a new fuse. This, however, is easier to say FIG.55 Checking a fuse
than to do. Because each fuse protects a limited
number of components, your job is narrowed
down somewhat. Begin your investigation by
looking for obvious fraying, loose connections,
breaks in insulation, etc. Use the techniques
outlined at the beginning of this section.
Electrical problems are almost always a real
headache to solve, but if you are patient and
persistent, and approach the problem logically
(that is, don’t start replacing electrical
components randomly), you will eventually find
the solution.
The amperage of each fuse and the circuit it
protects are marked on the fusebox, which is
located under the left side (driver’s side) of the
instrument panel and pulls down for easy
access. 5. Signal flasher

FIG.56 Convenience center holds most relays

 CHASSIS ELECTRICAL 6-51
equivalent to the stripped wire. Then, insert the double the stripped wire end of the fuse link
Fusible Links end of the replacement link into the other end before inserting and crimping it into the butt
of the butt connector and crimp firmly. connector for positive wire retention.
The fuse link is a short length of special,
e. Using rosin core solder with a
Hypalon (high temperature) insulated wire,
integral with the engine compartment wiring consistency of 60 percent tin and 40 percent
lead, solder the connectors and the wires at
harness and should not be confused with
the repairs and insulate with electrical tape.
Circuit Breakers
standard wire. It is several wire gauges smaller
than the circuit which it protects. Under no 6. To replace any fuse link on a single circuit The headlights are protected by a circuit
circumstances should a fuse link replacement in a harness, cut out the damaged portion, breaker in the headlamp switch. If the circuit
repair be made using a length of standard wire strip approximately V2 in. (13mm) of breaker trips, the headlights will either flash on
cut from bulk stock or from another wiring insulation from the two wire ends and attach and off, or stay off altogether. The circuit breaker
harness. the appropriate replacement fuse link to the rests automatically after the overload is
To repair any blown fuse link use the following stripped wire ends with two proper size butt removed.
procedure: connectors. Solder the connectors and wires The windshield wipers are also protected by a
1. Determine which circuit is damaged, its and insulate with tape. circuit breaker. If the motor overheats, the circuit
location and the cause of the open fuse link. If 7. To repair any fuse link which has an breaker will trip, remaining off until the motor
the damaged fuse link is one of three fed by a eyelet terminal on one end such as the cools or the overload is removed. One common
common No. 10 or 12 gauge feed wire, charging circuit, cut off the open fuse link
determine the specific affected circuit. cause of overheating is operation of the wipers in
behind the weld, strip approximately V2 in. heavy snow.
2. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
(13mm) of insulation from the cut end and The circuit breakers for the power door locks
3. Cut the damaged fuse link from the wiring
attach the appropriate new eyelet fuse link to and power windows are located in the fuse box.
harness and discard it. If the fuse link is one of
the cut stripped wire with an appropriate size
three circuits fed by a single feed wire, cut it out
butt connector. Solder the connectors and
of the harness at each splice end and discard it.
4. Identify and procure the proper fuse link wires at the repair and insulate with tape.
and butt connectors for attaching the fuse link to 8. Connect the negative battery cable to the Flashers
the harness. battery and test the system for proper
operation. The hazard flasher is located in the
5. To repair any fuse link in a 3-link group
with one feed: convenience center’, under the dash, on the left
Do not mistake a resistor wire for
a. After cutting the open link out of the side kick panel. The horn relay and the buzzer
a fuse link. The resistor wire Is
harness, cut each of the remaining assembly may be found here also. The turn
generally longer and has print
undamaged fuse links close to the feed wire signal flasher is installed in a clamp attached to
stating, “Resistor-don’t cut or
weld. the base of the steering column support inside
splice”.
b. Strip approximately V2 in. (13mm) of the car. In all cases, replacement is made by
insulation from the detached ends of the two When attaching a single No. 16,17,18 or 20 unplugging the old unit and plugging in a new
good fuse links, Then insert two wire ends into gauge fuse link to a heavy gauge wire, always one.
one end of a butt connector and carefully push
one stripped end of the replacement fuse link
into the same end of the butt connector and
crimp all three firmly together.
Care must be taken when fitting
the three fuse links Into the butt
connector as the Internal diameter
Is a snug fit for three wires. Make
sure to use a proper crimping tool.
Pliers, side cutter, etc. will not
apply the proper crimp to retain the
wires and withstand a pull test.
c. After crimping the butt connector to the
three fuse links, cut the weld portion from the
feed wire and strip approximately V2 in.
(13mm) of insulation from the cut end. Insert
the stripped end into the open end of the butt
connector and crimp very firmly.
d. To attach the remaining end of the
replacement fuse link, strip approximately V2
in. (13mm) of insulation from the wire end of
the circuit from which the blown fuse link was
removed, and firmly crimp a butt connector or
6-52 CHASSIS ELECTRICAL
Troubleshooting Basic Turn Signal and Flasher Problems
Most problems in the turn signals or flasher system can be reduced to defective flashers or bulbs, which are easily
replaced. Occasionally, problems in the turn signals are traced to the switch in the steering column, which will require
professional service.
F = Front R = Rear • = Lights off o = Lights on

Problem Solution

Turn signals light, but do not flash • Replace the flasher

No turn signals light on either side • Check the fuse. Replace if defec¬
tive.
• Check the flasher by substitution
• Check for open circuit, short circuit
or poor ground

Both turn signals on one side don’t • Check for bad bulbs
work • Check for bad ground in both
housings

One turn signal light on one side • Check and/or replace bulb
doesn’t work • Check for corrosion in socket.
Clean contacts.
• Check for poor ground at socket

Turn signal flashes too fast or too • Check any bulb on the side flash¬
slow ing too fast. A heavy-duty bulb is
probably installed in place of a
regular bulb.
• Check the bulb flashing too slow.
A standard bulb was probably
installed in place of a heavy-duty
bulb.
• Check for loose connections or
corrosion at the bulb socket
Indicator lights don’t work in either ♦ Check if the turn signals are work-
direction
A ing
• Check the dash indicator lights
mm wm • Check the flasher by substitution
 CHASSIS ELECTRICAL 6-53
Troubleshooting Basic Turn Signal and Flasher Problems
Most problems in the turn signals or flasher system can be reduced to defective flashers or bulbs, which are easily
replaced. Occasionally, problems in the turn signals are traced to the switch in the steering column, which will require
professional service.
F = Front R = Rear • = Lights off o = Lights on

Problem Solution

One indicator light doesn’t light • On systems with 1 dash indicator:

See if the lights work on the
same side. Often the filaments
have been reversed in systems
combining stoplights with taillights
and turn signals.
Check the flasher by substitution
• On systems with 2 indicators:
Check the bulbs on the same
side
Check the indicator light bulb
Check the flasher by substitution

Troubleshooting Basic Lighting Problems

Problem Cause Solution

Lights
One or more lights don’t work, but • Defective bulb(s) • Replace bulb(s)
others do • Blown fuse(s) • Replace fuse(s)
• Dirty fuse clips or light sockets • Clean connections
• Poor ground circuit • Run ground wire from light socket
housing to car frame
Lights burn out quickly • Incorrect voltage regulator setting • Replace voltage regulator
or defective regulator
• Poor battery/alternator connections • Check battery/altemator
connections
Lights go dim • Low/discharged battery • Check battery
• Alternator not charging • Check drive belt tension; repair or
replace alternator
• Corroded sockets or connections • Clean bulb and socket contacts
and connections
• Low voltage output • Replace voltage regulator
Lights flicker • Loose connection • Tighten all connections
• Poor ground • Run ground wire from light housing
to car frame
• Circuit breaker operating (short • Check connections and look for
\
circuit) bare wires

Lights “flare”—Some flare is normal • High voltage setting • Replace voltage regulator
on acceleration—if excessive, see
“Lights Burn Out Quickly”
Lights glare—approaching drivers • Lights adjusted too high • Have headlights aimed
are blinded • Rear springs or shocks sagging • Check rear springs/shocks
• Rear tires soft • Check/correct rear tire pressure
6-54 CHASSIS ELECTRICAL
Troubleshooting Basic Lighting Problems
Problem Cause Solution

Turn Signals
Turn signals don’t work in either • Blown fuse • Replace fuse
direction • Defective flasher • Replace flasher
• Loose connection • Check/tighten all connections
Right (or left) turn signal only won’t • Bulb burned out • Replace bulb
work • Right (or left) indicator bulb burned • Check/replace indicator bulb
out
• Short circuit • Check/repair wiring
Flasher rate too slow or too fast • Incorrect wattage bulb • Flasher bulb
• Incorrect flasher • Replace flasher (use a variable
load flasher if you pull a trailer)
Indicator lights do not flash (burn • Burned out bulb • Replace bulb
steadily) • Defective flasher • Replace flasher
Indicator lights do not light at all • Burned out indicator bulb • Replace indicator bulb
• Defective flasher • Replace flasher

Troubleshooting Basic Dash Gauge Problems

Problem Cause Solution
Coolant Temperature Gauge
Gauge reads erratically or not at all • Loose or dirty connections • Clean/tighten connections
• Defective sending unit • Bi-metal gauge: remove the wire
from the sending unit. Ground
the wire for an instant. If the
gauge registers, replace the
sending unit.
• Defective gauge • Magnetic gauge: disconnect the
wire at the sending unit. With ig¬
nition ON gauge should register
COLD. Ground the wire; gauge
should register HOT.
Ammeter Gauge—Turn Headlights ON (do not start engine). Note reaction
Ammeter shows charge • Connections reversed on gauge • Reinstall connections
Ammeter shows discharge • Ammeter is OK • Nothing
Ammeter does not move • Loose connections or faulty wiring • Check/correct wiring
• Defective gauge • Replace gauge
 CHASSIS ELECTRICAL 6-55
Troubleshooting Basic Dash Gauge Problems
Problem Cause Solution

Oil Pressure Gauge

Gauge does not register or is • On mechanical gauge, Bourdon • Check tube for kinks or bends pre-
inaccurate tube may be bent or kinked venting oil from reaching the
gauge
• Low oil pressure • Remove sending unit. Idle the
engine briefly. If no oil flows
from sending unit hole, problem
is in engine.
• Defective gauge • Remove the wire from the sending
unit and ground it for an instant
with the ignition ON. A good
gauge will go to the top of the
scale.
• Defective wiring • Check the wiring to the gauge. If
it’s OK and the gauge doesn’t
register when grounded, replace
the gauge.
• Defective sending unit • If the wiring is OK and the gauge
functions when grounded,
replace the sending unit
All Gauges
All gauges do not operate • Blown fuse • Replace fuse
• Defective instrument regulator • Replace instrument voltage
regulator
All gauges read low or erratically • Defective or dirty instrument volt¬ • Clean contacts or replace
age regulator
All gauges pegged • Loss of ground between instru¬ • Check ground
ment voltage regulator and car
• Defective instrument regulator • Replace regulator

Warning Lights
Light(s) do not come on when igni- • Defective bulb • Replace bulb
tion is ON, but engine is not • Defective wire • Check wire from light to sending
started unit
• Defective sending unit • Disconnect the wire from the send¬
ing unit and ground it. Replace
the sending unit if the light
comes on with the ignition ON.
Light comes on with engine running • Problem in individual system • Check system
• Defective sending unit • Check sending unit (see above)
6-56 CHASSIS ELECTRICAL
Troubleshooting the Heater
Problem Cause Solution

Blower motor will not turn at any • Blown fuse • Replace fuse
speed • Loose connection • Inspect and tighten
• Defective ground • Clean and tighten
• Faulty switch • Replace switch
• Faulty motor • Replace motor
• Faulty resistor • Replace resistor
Blower motor turns at one speed • Faulty switch • Replace switch
only • Faulty resistor • Replace resistor
Blower motor turns but does not • Intake blocked • Clean intake
circulate air • Fan not secured to the motor shaft • Tighten security
Heater will not heat • Coolant does not reach proper • Check and replace thermostat if
/ temperature necessary
• Heater core blocked internally • Flush or replace core if necessary
• Heater core air-bound • Purge air from core
• Blend-air door not in proper • Adjust cable
position
Heater will not defrost • Control cable adjustment incorrect • Adjust control cable
• Defroster hose damaged • Replace defroster hose
 CHASSIS ELECTRICAL 6-57
Troubleshooting Basic Windshield Wiper Problems
Problem Cause Solution

Electric Wipers
Wipers do not operate— • Internal motor defect • Replace motor
Wiper motor heats up or hums • Bent or damaged linkage • Repair or replace linkage
• Arms improperly installed on link¬ • Position linkage in park and rein¬
ing pivots stall wiper arms
Electric Wipers

Wipers do not operate— • Fuse or circuit breaker blown • Replace fuse or circuit breaker
No current to motor • Loose, open or broken wiring • Repair wiring and connections
• Defective switch • Replace switch
• Defective or corroded terminals • Replace or clean terminals
• No ground circuit for motor or • Repair ground circuits
switch
Wipers do not operate— • Linkage disconnected or broken • Connect wiper linkage or replace
Motor runs broken linkage
Vacuum Wipers
Wipers do not operate • Control switch or cable inoperative • Repair or replace switch or cable
• Loss of engine vacuum to wiper • Check vacuum lines, engine
motor (broken hoses, low vacuum and fuel pump
engine vacuum, defective
vacuum/fuel pump)
• Linkage broken or disconnected • Repair linkage
• Defective wiper motor • Replace wiper motor
Wipers stop on engine acceleration • Leaking vacuum hoses • Repair or replace hoses
• Dry windshield • Wet windshield with washers
• Oversize wiper blades • Replace with proper size wiper
blades
• Defective vacuum/fuel pump • Replace pump
6-58 CHASSIS ELECTRICAL

External front lighting system - 1982-90 Celebrity

 CHASSIS ELECTRICAL 6-59

External rear lighting system - 1982-90 Celebrity

6-60 CHASSIS ELECTRICAL

Instrument panel and lighting system - 1982-85 Celebrity

 CHASSIS ELECTRICAL 6-61

Instrument panel and lighting system - 1986-90 Celebrity

6-62 CHASSIS ELECTRICAL
/

WINDSHIELD WIPER SWITCH To Windshield

(PULSE ONLY) Wiper Motor

Dash controls and accessories - 1982-90 Celebrity

 CHASSIS ELECTRICAL 6-63

Dash controls and accessories - 1982-90 Celebrity (continued)

6-64 CHASSIS ELECTRICAL

Power accessories - 1982-86 Celebrity

 CHASSIS ELECTRICAL 6-65

Power accessories - 1986-90 Celebrity

6-66 CHASSIS ELECTRICAL

To Instrument
Lights

Anti-lock brake system and dash accessories - 1986-90 Celebrity

 CHASSIS ELECTRICAL 6-67

Engine control system 4-cylinder engine - 1982-86 Celebrity

6-68 CHASSIS ELECTRICAL

Engine control system 4-cylinder engine - 1987-90 Celebrity

 CHASSIS ELECTRICAL 6-69

Engine control system (carbureted) 6-cylinder engine - 1982-86 Celebrity

6-70 CHASSIS ELECTRICAL

Engine control system (fuel injected) 6-cylinder engine - 1982-86 Celebrity

 CHASSIS ELECTRICAL 6-71

Engine control system (fuel injected) 6-cylinder engine - 1987-90 Celebrity

6-72 CHASSIS ELECTRICAL

Engine control system (fuel injected) 6-cylinder engine - 1987-90 Celebrity (continued)
 CHASSIS ELECTRICAL 6-73

External front lighting system - 1982-89 Century

6-74 CHASSIS ELECTRICAL

External front lighting system - 1990-92 Century

 CHASSIS ELECTRICAL 6-75

External rear lighting system - 1982-90 Century

t
6-76 CHASSIS ELECTRICAL

Instrument panel and lighting system - 1982-89 Century

 CHASSIS ELECTRICAL 6-77

Instrument panel and lighting system - 1990-92 Century

6-78 CHASSIS ELECTRICAL

WINDSHIELD WIPER SWITCH

(PULSE ONLY)

Dash controls and accessories - 1982-89 Century

 CHASSIS ELECTRICAL 6-79

POWER WINDOW
CONTROL MODULE

Dash controls and accessories - 1990-92 Century

6-80 CHASSIS ELECTRICAL

Power accessories - 1982-89 Century

 CHASSIS ELECTRICAL 6-81

Power accessories, seat and door assembly - 1982- 92 Century

6-82 CHASSIS ELECTRICAL

Dash controls and cruise control assembly - 1982- 92 Century

 CHASSIS ELECTRICAL 6-83

Theft controller unit

6-84 CHASSIS ELECTRICAL

To Instrument
Lights
RADIO FUSE

HOT IN ACC
-YEL.5-
EE] OR RUN
’ BLK / WHT .5
-Hi'
■ YEL .24 —
- ORN .24
o -YEL .22

• BLU .24

Ed
— GRY 24-
. GRN .24 - - GRY 22-

"g^N .8
To Horns • BLK 24-
<toh
BLK 22
SUP
To Horn
TRANSLATOR Switch -BLK .22
MODULE To Radio

1 o□
SPRING LOADED l
BLK .5
CONTACT
CANCEL CAM
ASSEMBLY

DIRECTIONAL / HAZARD
CONTACT MODULE
GRN .22

■ BLU .22

STEERING WHEEL
CONTROL MODULE

To Door Switch's

RIGHT REAR
BELT SHOULDER
RETRACTOR

Passive restraint controller, seat belt assembly

 CHASSIS ELECTRICAL 6-85

Engine control system 4-cylinder engine - 1982-89 Century

6-86 CHASSIS ELECTRICAL

Engine control system 4-cylinder engine - 1990-92 Century

 CHASSIS ELECTRICAL 6-87

RADIO FUSE

Engine control system 4-cylinder engine - 1990-92 Century (continued)

6-88 CHASSIS ELECTRICAL

Engine control system (carbureted) 6-cylinder engine - Century

 CHASSIS ELECTRICAL 6-89

GEAR SELECT SWITCH INJ / COIL FUSE

ENGINE CONTROL
MODULE (VS,
ENGINE)

LLGRN .8

To Air Conditioning
HOT IN RUN Function Switch
TEST OR START

HOT IN RUN
A.L.D.L TEST OR START
SERVICE ENGINE V6 ENGINE A 1C
CONNECTOR
SOON IND. CONPRESSOR RELAY

Engine control system (fuel injected) 6-cylinder engine - Century

6-90 CHASSIS ELECTRICAL

FOG LIGHT RELAY UCENCE / MARKER /

External front lighting system - 1982-89 Cutlass

 CHASSIS ELECTRICAL 6-91

FOG LIGHT RELAY F0G UGHT

External front lighting system - 1990-92 Cutlass

6-92 CHASSIS ELECTRICAL

External rear lighting system - 1982-92 Cutlass

 CHASSIS ELECTRICAL 6-93

Instrument panel and lighting system - 1982-89 Cutlass

6-94 CHASSIS ELECTRICAL

Instrument panel and lighting system - 1990-92 Cutlass

 CHASSIS ELECTRICAL 6-95

WINDSHIELD WIPER SWITCH To Windshield

Dash controls and wipers - 1982-85 Cutlass

6-96 CHASSIS ELECTRICAL

WINDSHIELD WIPER SWITCH To Windshield

(PULSE ONLY) Wiper Motor

Dash controls and wipers - 1986-89 Cutlass

 CHASSIS ELECTRICAL 6-97

POWER WINDOW
CONTROL MODULE

Dash controls and wipers - 1990-92 Cutlass

6-98 CHASSIS ELECTRICAL

Dash controls and accessories - 1990-92 Cutlass

 CHASSIS ELECTRICAL 6-99

Power accessories, seat and door assembly - 1982- 89 Cutlass

6-100 CHASSIS ELECTRICAL

Power accessories, seat and door assembly - 1989- 92 Cutlass

CHASSIS ELECTRICAL 6-101
6-102 CHASSIS ELECTRICAL

Engine control system 4-cylinder engine - 1990-92 Cutlass

 CHASSIS ELECTRICAL 6-103

RADIO FUSE

Engine control system 4-cylinder engine - 1990-92 Cutlass (continued)

6-104 CHASSIS ELECTRICAL

Engine control system (carbureted) 6-cylinder engine - Cutlass

 CHASSIS ELECTRICAL 6-105

COOLANT

Engine control system (fuel injected) 6-cylinder engine - 1982-89 Cutlass

6-106 CHASSIS ELECTRICAL

Engine control system (fuel injected) 6-cylinder engine - 1989-92 Cutlass

 CHASSIS ELECTRICAL 6-107

COOLING FAN .5 MM RED FUSIBLE LINK AT

millliiniiiliiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiimimii HOT AT
CONTROL/
RIGHT HEADLIGHTS ALL TIMES
RELAY HOT IN
RUN

BRN .8

LEFT FRONT MARKER LIGHT

External front lighting system - 1982-85 6000

6-108 CHASSIS ELECTRICAL
 CHASSIS ELECTRICAL 6-109

External rear lighting system - 1982-92 6000

6-110 CHASSIS ELECTRICAL

Instrument panel and lighting system - 1982-85 6000

 CHASSIS ELECTRICAL 6-111

Instrument panel and lighting system - 1986-92 6000

6-112 CHASSIS ELECTRICAL

WINDSHIELD WIPER SWITCH To Windshield

(PULSE ONLY) Wiper Motor
(Pulse Only)

PPL 1

LEFT REAR
LEFT REAR MASTER WINDOW
WINDOW
WINDOW SWITCH
SWITCH
MOTOR
GRN 2-4 1 0
BLU 2

MIST*

BRN2
Hid
LO
PPL 2
LEFT FRONT
WINDOW MOTOR

■GRN 1
• BLU 2 ‘

BRN2.
Z7 J
■ PNK 1

|—GRY 1
RIGHT WINDOW
MOTOR
=V
BLU/_(
BLU 2 WHT 3

WASH
SWITCH
BRN 2

RIGHT WINDOW TAN/_

SWITCH WHT 3
WINDSHIELD WIPER SWITCH (EXC. PULSE)
■PNK 3
To Windshield
.PPL IT-1
Wiper Motor
(Exc. Pulse)
GRN 1
HOT IN RUN

WDO CIRCUIT
BREAKER

GRY 1

■ih BLK 1

REAR WINDOW
LIFT GATE
SAFETY WASHER MOTOR
PNK!
SWITCH

PWR ACC
CIRCUIT BREAKER REAR WINDOW
WIPER / WASHER
SWITCH
BLK 1

REAR WINDOW
|i
■ BLK 7=^ WIPER MOTOR

Dash controls and wipers - 1982-84 6000

 CHASSIS ELECTRICAL 6-113

WINDSHIELD WIPER SWITCH To Windshield

Dash controls and wipers - 1985-92 6000

6-114 CHASSIS ELECTRICAL

Dash controls and cruise control - 6000

 CHASSIS ELECTRICAL 6-115

DOOR LOCK RELAY NOTE; 2 DOOR SHOWN

Power accessories, seat and door assembly - 1982- 87 6000

6-116 CHASSIS ELECTRICAL

Power accessories, seat and door assembly - 1988- 92 6000

 CHASSIS ELECTRICAL 6-117

To Instrument
Lights

Anti-lock brake system and instrument assembly - 6000

6-118 CHASSIS ELECTRICAL

Engine control system 4-cylinder engine - 1982-88 6000

 CHASSIS ELECTRICAL 6-119

Engine control system 4-cylinder engine - 1989-92 6000

6-120 CHASSIS ELECTRICAL

RADIO FUSE

Engine control system - 1999-92 6000 (continued)

 CHASSIS ELECTRICAL 6-121

Engine control system (carbureted) 6-cylinder engine - 6000

6-122 CHASSIS ELECTRICAL

THROTTLE POSITION
SENSOR
FUEL INJECTORS

ENGINE CONTROL
MODULE (V6
FUEL INJECTED)
PPL .8
OXYGEN SENSOR

nq lil
C15 - UBLU.8-

016 ■U.BLU.8 —
D14 - U.GRN .8 -
D15 - U.GRN .8 -
COOLANT TEMP.
D7
SENSOR
C14 ■ GRY.8 ■

C13 -BLU.8
R
C12 ■ BLU.8
D13 ■ BLK .8 -

CIO ■ YEL.8- FUEL PUMP {TANK UNIT)

To Electronic
D8 GRN/WHT.8 ' Vacuum Regulator
- BLK/WHT 1 —
HI'
C3
C4
- Lt GRN/ BLK .8 —

-U.GRN/WHT.8 -
IDLE AIR
CONTROL
71
TAN/ OIL PRESSURE SWITCH
_ U.BLU/BLK.8 WHT 1
C6

C5 • U. BLU / WHT .8 —
-TAN/WHT 2

ORN 1 FUEL PUMP

PRIME CONNECTOR
C16 ■ ORN 1
ORN 1
BATTERY JUNCTION

z
D5 - TAN / BLK .8

-ORN 1 1 BLOCK,

HOT AT
B1 _ ORN1 — 20A • RED 2
ALL TIMES
A6 PNK/BLK1■
FUEL PUMP
D6 -TAN/WHT1-hJ|| INLINE FUSE
D1

A9

A8

A4
-TAN 1-

-BLK/WHT.8 —ToALDL
qrn i_Connector

■ GRY .8
_To Electronic
Vacuum
IT- FUEL PUMP PNK/BLK .5
STOP LIGHT
SWITCH

GAUGE FUSE
PPL .5
AUTOMATIC
TRANSMISSION
CONTROL

A12
Regulator
-BLK/WHT.8 —
RELAY

II' PNK/
t 10A HOT IN RUN
TEST OR START
A1 GRN/WHT .8- BLK .8 -TAN/BLK .8
A7
To Ignition
PNK/BLK .5
A3 -GRN/YEL.8- Switch

B9 BRN .8 . To Vehicle
PURGE SOLENOID
1 CHECK ENGINE

S) LIGHT PNK 3
Speed Sensor
A5 BRN/WHT .8 ■
B9

All
-TAN .8 -
■ BLK/PNK .8 J
B5 - PPL/WHT .8'
B3 BLK/RED .8 —
I- PNK/
WHT.8 -WHT.8-1
To Distributor WHT.8
B4 _WHT.8 •

Bfi To Tachometer
POWER
PNK/
STEERING —<juO 1
GRN/YEL.8 —I * * * BLK .5

MANIFOLD AIR
TEMP.SENSOR
3* SWITCH

—ujj—
IGNITION
COIL

ELECTRONIC SPARK
DISTRIBUTOR HOT AT
BRN/WHT .8 ALL TIMES

„-m L B
BATTERY_
HI— BLK/WHT.8 ■
8 ■ ^r-1 j
JUNCTION
RED 2

— ORN2--( -BRN 3 • 30A

• BLK/WHT.8 MASS AIR FLOW RELAY

INLINE FUSE

Engine control system (fuel injected) 6-cylinder engine - 1982-89 6000

 CHASSIS ELECTRICAL 6-123

GEAR SELECT SWITCH

ENGINE CONTROL
MODULE (V8,
ENGINE)

HOT IN RUN
A.LD.L TEST OR START
8ERVICE ENGINE V0 ENGINE A 1C
SOON IND. CONNECTOR
CONPRESSOR RELAY

Engine control system (fuel injected) 6-cylinder engine - 1989-92 6000

6-124 CHASSIS ELECTRICAL

Engine control system (fuel injected) 6-cylinder engine - 1989-92 6000 (continued)
 CHASSIS ELECTRICAL 6-125

HOT IN RUN. BULB TEST OR START

Diesel engine fuel control system - 4.3L (VIN T) Diesel engine

6-126 CHASSIS ELECTRICAL
MOT IN RUN. BULB TEST OR START

HOT IN RUN, BULB TEST OR START HOT IN RUN, BULB TEST OR START

-“-i FUSE
GAGES FUSE ECM/1NJ | BLOCK
10 AMP FUSE j
SEE FUSE
10 AMP |
BLOCK DETAILS
_J
.5 PNK/BLK ^ 39 SEE INSTRUMENT
PANEL FOR ,8 PNK/BLK ? 439
 CHASSIS ELECTRICAL 6-127
HOT AT ALL TIMES HOT IN RUN, 8UL8 TEST OR START

HR p N B A ELECTRONIC
M
ENGINE SPEEO THROTTLE EGR CONTROL VEHICLE HPAA OUTPUT HPCACONTROL FAST IDLE IGNITION CONTROL
INPUT POSITION PRESSURE SPEED INPUT SOLENOID POWER MOOULE
(LOAD)INPUT SENSOR INPUT CONTROL INPUT
SOLIO STATE SENSOR COOLANT
A/C ON INPUT GROUND TEMPERATURE INPUT
V W

.8 BLK/WHT

TRANSAXLE CONVERTER
CLUTCH (DIESEL VIN T)
COOLANT
TEMPERATURE
SENSOR

Diesel engine fuel control system - 4.3L (VIN T) Diesel engine (continued)
6-128 CHASSIS ELECTRICAL
HOT IN RUN, BULB TEST OR START

'1 , GflGESFUS£
) 10 AMP
_ SEE FUSE |
|-

J
.5 PNK/BLK \ 39
* BLOCK DETAILS •

FUSE
35 sm rnr ^ ^ ^4 ' BLOCK DETAILS
PNK/BLK / ^.35 PNK/BLK

1 INSTRUMENT GENERATOR
—T—
} PANEL J. FIELD 8UL8
NOT
CHARGE 1 PRINTED

| INDICATOR J CIRCUIT © VISIBLE

I
(REO)

TEST
HOLE

Starter and charging system - 4.3L (VIN T) Diesel engine (continued)

HOT AT ALL TIMES

Cl 09
FUSIBLE
LINK C

:
.8 BRN 250 FOR C100 TERMINAL
VIEW. SEE JUNCTION
CONNECTOR PAGE

3 RED 2

.8 8RN/WHTL 250

G,

COOLANT
FAN SWITCH
TWO
SPEED
 CHASSIS ELECTRICAL 6-129
HOT IN RUN. BULB TEST OR START HOT IN START HOT IN RUN, BULB TEST OR START HOT AT ALL TIMES

MOT IN RUN, BULB TEST OR START

MOT AT ALL TIMES

r 83^ IGNITION
| SWITCH
j accy^ r fstart'

1 0 BULB 1
LOCK^
-+T TEST 11
OFF ] RUN
11
l11
Vci SEE FUSE
^ BLOCK DETAILS

SEE INSTRUMENT
3 PNK
POWER PANEL FOR
” DISTRIBUTION CONNECTOR PIN
3
ASSIGNMENTS

*1 FUSE
DIESEL BLOCK
FUSE
\h AMP

1 PNK/BLK ? 1
A,
G Sf C268

1 PNK/BLK \ 139
DIESEL FUEL WATER-IN-FUEL

S12I# CONTROL MOOULE

GLOW PLUG POWER

1 PNK/BLK V 139
CONTROL
INPUT auMuo ^
A^C144
GROUNO

FUEL HEATER
SWITCH CLOSES
BELOW -4.4' C
O FUEL
FILTER
ASSEMBLY

(24* F) AND OPENS

SENSES GROUND
ABOVE 34.9* C (96* F)
THROUGH
WATER
FROM FUEL TANK
WATER SETTLED
TO BOTTOM

/ TO INJECTION PUMP

TO DRAIN VALVE

Fuel filter system - 4.3L (VIN T) Diesel engine

6-130 CHASSIS ELECTRICAL
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
Component U.S. Metric
ENGINE COMPARTMENT
C3I Crankshaft sensor: 71 inch lbs. 8 Nm
C3I Ignition module: 19 ft. lbs. 25 Nm
Coolant temperature sensor: 22 ft. lbs. 30 Nm
Crusie servo bracket: 12 inch lbs. 1.4 Nm
DIS Coil pack: 40 inch lbs. 4.5 Nm
DIS Crankshaft sensor: 20 inch lbs. 2.3 Nm
Idle air control valve retaining screw: 27 inch lbs. 3 Nm
Spark plugs:
Except 2.8L carburated 20 ft. lbs. 27 Nm
2.8L carburated 15 ft. lbs. 17 Nm
Starter through bolts: 32 ft. lbs. 43 Nm
Steering wheel: 30 ft. lbs. 41 Nm
TCC solenoid retaining screws: 10 ft. lbs. 14 Nm
TPS retaining screws: 18 inch lbs. 2 Nm
AIR CONDITIONING
Accumulator strap bolt: 88 inch lbs. 10 Nm
Air inlet assembly screws: 48 inch lbs. 5.4 Nm
Blower resistor screws: 13 inch lbs. 1.5 Nm
Compressor and cooling fan switches: 42 inch lbs. 4.8 Nm
Compressor brace: 22 ft. lbs. 30 Nm
Compressor bracket to engine: 25 ft. lbs. 18 Nm
Compressor front mounting bolts: 37 ft. lbs. 50 Nm
Compressor to bracket: 25 ft. lbs. 18 Nm
Condenser lower bracket bolt: 12.5 inch lbs. 1.4 Nm
Condenser lower bracket nut: 53 inch lbs. 6 Nm
Control assembly screws: 13 inch lbs. 1.5 Nm
Coupled hose assembly: 25 ft. lbs. 33 Nm
Defroster duct screws: 13 inch lbs. 1.5 Nm
Heater pipe clips: 88 inch lbs. 10 Nm
Liquid line filter nuts: 11 ft. lbs. 15 Nm
Outlet (all) duct screws: 13 inch lbs. 1.5 Nm
Refrigent hose clamps: 40 inch lbs. 4.5 Nm
Vaccum tank bolts: 88 inch lbs. 10 Nm
AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION Hub & bearing 7-60
Adjustments 7-55 Removal and installation 7-59
Back-up light switch 7-56 Driveshaft 7-46
Fluid and filter change 7-55 GEARSHIFT LINKAGE
Identification 7-55 Automatic transmission 7-55
Neutral safety switch 7-56 Manual transmission 7-5
Operation 7-54 HALFSHAFTS 7-46
Removal and installation 7-56
MANUAL TRANSMISSION
Throttle cable adjustment 7-55
Adjustments 7-5
Troubleshooting 7-65
Back-up light switch 7-9
AXLE
Identification 7-5
Front 7-46
Linkage 7-5
BACK-UP LIGHT SWITCH
Overhaul
Automatic transmission 7-56
4- speed 7-13
Manual transmission 7-9
5- speed 7-24
CLUTCH
Removal and installation 7-9
Adjustment 7-50
Troubleshooting 7-2,62
Hydraulic system bleeding 7-53
MASTER CYLINDER 7-52
Master cylinder 7-52
Removal and installation 7-51 NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH 7-56

DRIVE
Slave cylinder 7-52 SLAVE CYLINDER 7-52
Troubleshooting 7-64 TROUBLESHOOTING CHARTS
DIFFERENTIAL Automatic transmission 7-65
Rear 7-61 Clutch 7-64
Manual transmission 7-2,62

TRAIN
DRIVE AXLE (FRONT)
Axle shaft 7-46 Torque converter 7-66
Removal and installation 7-46 U-JOINTS
DRIVE AXLE (REAR) Removal 7-46
Axle housing 7-60 Overhaul 7-48
Automatic Transmission 7-55
Clutch 7-50
Front Drive Axle 7-46
Manual Transmission 7-5
Rear Axle 7-46
7-2 DRIVE TRAIN

MANUAL TRANSAXLE

and gear selecting, synchronizers with blocker shaft. The pinion shaft, placed in the differential
General Information rings are controlled by shifting forks. A sliding case bore, is at a right angle to the drive axle
idler gear arrangement is used for reverse gear. shaft.
Transaxle is the term used to identify a unit The components consists of: an aluminum The Hydra-Matic Muncie 282 (HM-282)
which combines the transmission and drive axle transaxle case, an aluminum clutch cover, input transaxle is a 5 speed unit. The gearing provides
into one component. All 1982-86 models were gear (shaft), output gear (shaft) and the for 5 synchronized forward speeds, a reverse
equipped with MT-125 manual four speed differential assembly. Preloaded tapered roller speed, a final drive with differential output and
transaxles. In 1987-88 Muncie five speed bearings support the input gear, output gear and speedometer drive.
transaxles were used. The 4-speed transaxles differential. Selective shims, used to establish The input and output gear clusters are nested
use cable actuated clutches while the five speed the correct preload, are located beneath the right very close together, requiring extremely tight
clutches are hydraulically controlled utilizing a hand bearing cups. tolerances of shafts, gears and synchronizers.
clutch master and slave cylinder. The halfshafts which are attached to the front The input shaft is supported by a roller bearing
All forward gears in this design are in constant wheels, are turned by the differential and ring in the clutch and differential housing and a ball
mesh. Final drive from the transmission is taken gear which are controlled by the final output bearing in the transaxle case.
from the output gear, which is an integral part of gear. The output shaft is supported by a roller
the output shaft; the output gear transfers power The differential, consisting of a set of 4 gears, bearing in the clutch and differential housing and
to the differential ring gear and differential is a conventional arrangement that divides the a combination ball-and-roller bearing in the
assembly. The differential is of conventional torque between the halfshafts, allowing them to transaxle case.
design. rotate at different speeds. Of the 4 gear set, 2 are The differential case is supported by opposed
The 4-speed transaxle assembly is a constant known as differential side gears and the others tapered roller bearings which are under preload.
mesh design, combined with a differential unit are differential pinion gears. The speed gears are supported by roller
and assembled in a single case; the forward The differential pinion gears, mounted on a bearings. A bushing supports the reverse idler
gears are in constant mesh. For ease of shifting differential pinion shaft, are free to rotate on the gear.

Manual 4 Speed Transaxle Troubleshooting Chart

Condition Cause Correction
Noise is the same in drive or coast a) Road noise a) Road test on a smooth road
b) Tire noise b) Select a different tire design
c) Front wheel bearing noise c) Repair front wheel bearing
d) Incorrect drive axle angle (Standing d) Adjust vehicle height
Height)
Noise changes on a different type a) Road noise a) Road test on a smooth road
of road
b) Tire noise b) Select a different tire design
Noise tone lowers as vehicle speed a) Tire noise a) Select a different tire design
is lowered
Noise is produced with engine a) Engine noise a) Determine engine problem and repair it
running vehicle stopped and/or
driving
b) Transaxle noise b) Determine transaxle problem and repair it
c) Exhaust noise c) Determine exhaust problem and repair it
A knock at low speed a) Worn drive axle joints a) Replace worn drive axle joints
b) Worn side gear hub counterbore b) Replace differential assembly
Noise most pronounced on turns a) Differential gear noise a) Replace differential gear(s) or assembly
Clunk on acceleration or a) Loose engine mounts a) Tighten or replace loose engine mounts
deceleration
b) Worn differential pinion shaft in case or b) Replace differential pinion shaft or
side gear hub counterbore in case worn assembly
oversize
c) Worn or damaged drive axle inboard c) Replace inboard drive axle joint
joints
 DRIVE TRAIN 7-3
Manual 4 Speed Transaxle Troubleshootinq Chart (cont.) >

Condition Cause Correction

Clicking noise in turns a) Worn or damaged outboard joint a) Replace damaged outboard joint
Vibration a) Rough wheel bearing a) Replace damaged wheel bearing
b) Damaged drive axle shaft b) Replace axle shaft
c) Out of round tires c) Replace the tires
d) Tire unbalance d) Balance the tires
e) Worn joint in drive axle shaft e) Replace worn drive axle joint
f) Incorrect drive axle angle f) Adjust vehicle height
Noisy in Neutral with engine a) Damaged input gear bearings a) Replace input gear bearings
running
Noisy in First only a) Damaged or worn first-speed constant a) Replace damaged 1st gears
mesh gears
b) Damaged or worn 1-2 synchronizer b) Replace damaged 1-2 synchronizer
Noisy in Second only a) Damaged or worn second-speed constant a) Replace damaged 2nd gears
mesh gears
b) Damaged or worn 1-2 synchronizer b) Replace damaged 1-2 synchronizer
Rattle noise in 2nd gear while a) Bent reverse fork a) Replace bent reverse fork
making left turn
Noisy in Third only a) Damaged or worn third-speed constant a) Replace damaged 3rd gears
mesh gears
b) Damaged or worn 3-4 synchronizer b) Replace damaged 3-4 synchronizer
Noisy in High Gear a) Damaged 3-4 synchronizer a) Replace damaged 3-4 synchronizer
b) Damaged 4th speed gear or output gear b) Replace damaged 4th gear
Noisy in Reverse only a) Worn or damaged reverse idler gear or a) Replace damaged reverse idler gear or
idler bushing bushing
b) Worn or damaged 1-2 synchronizer sleeve b) Replace damaged 1-2 synchronizer sleeve
Noisy in All Gears a) Insufficient lubricant a) Add lubricant
b) Damaged or worn bearings b) Replace damaged bearings
c) Worn or damaged input gear (shaft) and/ c) Replace damaged input and/or output
or output gear (shaft) gear/shaft
Slips out of Gear a) Worn or improperly adjusted linkage a) Replace or adjust linkage
b) Transmission loose on engine housing b) Tighten transaxle housing bolts
c) Shift linkage does not work freely; binds c) Replace, lubricate or adjust linkage
d) Bent or damaged cables d) Replace damaged cables
e) Input gear bearing retainer broken or e) Replace or tighten input gear bearing
loose retainer
f) Dirt between clutch cover and engine f) Remove dirt between clutch cover and
housing engine housing
g) Stiff shift lever seal g) Replace or lubricate shift lever seal
h) Worn shift fork h) Replace worn shift fork
Leaks Lubricant a) Axle shaft seals a) Replace axle shaft seals
b) Excessive amount of lubricant in b) Remove excessive lubricant
transmission
c) Loose or broken input gear (shaft) c) Replace or tighten input gear bearing
bearing retainer retainer
d) Input gear bearing retainer “0” ring d) Replace 0-ring or seal
and/or lip seal damaged
e) Lack of sealant between case and clutch e) Add sealant between case and cover or
cover or loose clutch cover tighten cover
f) Shift lever seal leaks f) Replace shift lever seal.
7-4 DRIVE TRAIN
Muncie HM 282 5-Speed Manual Transaxle
Condition Cause Correction
A knock at low speeds a) Drive axle CV or TRI-POT joints worn a) Replace CV or joints
b) Side gear hub counterbore worn b) Replace hub counterbore
Noise most pronounced on turns a) Differential gear noise a) Check and repair or replace gear
Clunk on acceleration or deceleration a) Engine mounts loose a) Replace mounts
b) Drive axle inboard TRI-POT joints worn b) Replace joints
c) Differential pinion shaft in case worn c) Replace shaft
d) Side gear hub counterbore in case d) Repair or replace hub counterbore
worn oversize
Vibration a) Wheel bearing rough a) Replace bearing
b) Drive axle shaft bent b) Replace shaft
c) Tires out-of-round c) Replace tire
d) Tire unbalance d) Balance tire
e) CV joint in drive axle shaft worn e) Replace CV joint
f) Drive axle angle (trim height) incorrect f) Adjust angle
Noisy in neutral with engine running a) Input gear bearings worn a) Replace bearings
b) Clutch release bearing worn b) Replace bearings
Noisy in 1st only a) 1st speed constant-mesh gears a) Replace gears
chipped, scored or worn
b) 1/2 synchronizer worn b) Replace synchronizer
Noisy in 2nd only a) 2nd speed constant-mesh gears a) Replace gears
chipped, scored or worn
b) 1/2 synchronizer worn b) Replace synchronizer
Noisy in 3rd only a) 3rd gear constant-mesh gears chipped, a) Replace gears
scored or worn
b) 3/4 synchronizer worn b) Replace synchronizer
Noisy in 4th only a) 4th gear or output gear chipped, scored a) Replace gears
or worn
b) 3/4 synchronizer worn b) Replace synchronizer
Noisy in 5th only a) 5th speed gear or output gears a) Replace gears
chipped, scored or worn
b) 5th gear synchronizer worn b) Replace synchronizer
Noisy in reverse only a) Reverse idler gear, idler gear bushing, a) Replace gear(s) and/or bushings
input or output gear(s) chipped, scored
or worn
Noisy in all gears a) Insufficient lubricant a) Add lubricant
b) Bearings worn b) Replace bearings
c) Input gear (shaft) and/or output gear c) Replace gear(s)
(shaft) worn, chipped or scored
Slips out of gear a) Linkage worn or improperly adjusted a) Replace and/or adjust linkage
b) Shift linkage does not work freely; b) Repair or replace linkage
binds
c) Cables bent or worn c) Replace cables
d) Input gear bearing retainer broken or d) Repair or replace retainer
loose
e) Shift fork worn or bent e) Replace shift fork
 DRIVE TRAIN 7-5
Muncie HM 282 5-Speed Manual Transaxle
Condition Cause Correction
Leaks lubricant a) Fluid level indicator not seated in fill a) Seat fluid level indicator
port, causing fluid leakage at vent plug
b) Axle shaft seals worn b) Replace seals
c) Excessive amount of lubricant in c) Remove excessive fluid
transaxle
•
d) Input gear (shaft) bearing retainer d) Repair or replace retainer
loose or broken
e) Input gear bearing worn and/or lip seal e) Replace bearing and/or lip seal
damaged
f) Worn shift lever seal leaks f) Replace seal
g) Lack of sealant between case and g) Repair case and/or cover
clutch cover or loose clutch cover

retainer inside the car. Shift into first gear, then

Transaxle Identification Adjustments loosen the shift cable mounting nuts at the
transaxle.
The transaxle identification stamp is located at 2. Install two No. 22 drill bits, or two 5/32 in.
the center top of the case. The transaxle ' (4mm) rods, into the two alignment holes in the
identification tag is located on the left side near SHIFT LINKAGE shifter assembly to hold it in first gear.
the left side cover. 3. Place the transaxle into first gear by
pushing the rail selector shaft down just to the
MT-125 point of feeling the resistance of the inhibitor
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. spring. Then rotate the shift lever all the way
Remove the shifter boot, the console and counterclockwise.

TRANSAXLE
I.D. STAMP
LOCATION

TRANSAXLE
IDENTIFICATION
TAG LOCATION

MODEL YEAR BUILD DAY OF MONTH

(8 - 1988) 01 - 1ST DAY
1 5 - 15TH DAY

SERIAL NUMBER |—

MODEL P 8 B 17 X
PLANT
I
X X
BUILD MONTH
X
HM-282 A - JANUARY
B - FEBRUARY REBUILD MONTH
TMUNCIE C - MARCH USED ONLY WHEN CASE

XXX 61XXXMXXXXXX
D - APRIL
E - MAY
H - JUNE
K - JULY
M - AUGUST
IS REUSED - SAME
CODING AS 3RD DIGIT

P - SEPTEMBER
R - OCTOBER
S - NOVEMBER
T - DECEMBER

FIG. 1 Transaxle identification locations

7-6 DRIVE TRAIN
4. Install the stud, with the cable attached, SHIFTER SHAFT WASHER 4. On the opposite end of the shaft, apply a
into the slotted area of the select lever, while If a hang-up is experienced in the 1-2 gear load of 8.8-13.3 lbs. (4-6 Kg) and measure the
gently pulling on the lever to remove all lash. range and the shift cables are properly adjusted, end of housing-to-end of shifter shaft
5. Remove the two drill bits or pins from the it may be necessary to change the shift selector (dimension B).
shifter. washer. 5. Subtract dimension B from dimension A
6. Check the shifter for proper operation, it 1. From the end of the housing, remove the and secure dimension C.
may be necessary to fine tune the adjustment reverse inhibitor fitting spring and washer. 6. Using the dimension C and shifter shaft
after road testing. 2. Position the shifter shaft into the 2nd selective washer chart, select the correct shim
gear position. washer to be used on the reinstallation.
3. Measure the end of housing-to-end of
shifter shaft (dimension A).

5/32” DRILL
BIT

LEVER D

FRT

LEVER F 4tn 1st

SHIFT POSITIONS OF LEVERS
VIEW D
VIEW B
FIG.2 Adjusting the shift lever - 4 speed shown
 DRIVE TRAIN 7-7

TRANSMISSION
CONTROL ASM

SHIFTER ATTACHMENTS

CABLE "B
20-34 N.m
(15-25 FT. LBS 8-12 N.m
(6-9 FT. LBS.)
20-34 N.m
(15-25 FT. LBS.)

20-30 N.m
(15-23 FT. LBS.)
TRANSAXLE ATTACHMENTS

FIG.4 Shift cable assembly - 4 speed shown

7-8 DRIVE TRAIN
Shift Cable

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

4 Speed
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. At the transaxle, disconnect the shift
cables and remove the retaining clamp.
3. At the shift control, remove the knob, the
control cover and the boot or console (if
equipped).
4. Disconnect the shift cables from the shift
control.
5. Remove the front sill plate and pull the
carpet back to gain access to the cables.
6. Remove the cable grommet cover screws,
the floor pan cover and the cables.
7. To install the cables, route them into the
vehicle, install the cable cover and screws (at
floor pan).
FIG.5 Shift cable replacement - 5 speed shown
8. At the shift control assembly, connect the
shift cables. Reposition the carpet and install the
sill plate.
SHIM DIM C COLOR & NO
9. Raise and safely support the vehicle. PART NO. (MM) OF STRIPES
10. At the transaxle, position the cables and 14008235 1.8 3 WHITE
install the retaining clamps. 476709 2.1 1 ORANGE
11. Lower the vehicle. 476710 2.4 2 ORANGE
476711 2.7 3 ORANGE
12. Connect and adjust the cables at the shift 476712 30 1 BLUE
lever assembly. 476713 3.3 2 BLUE
476714 3.6 3 BLUE
13. Install the console, if equipped, the boot, 476715 3.9 1 WHITE
the control cover and the knob. 476716 4.2 2 WHITE

5'Speed
FIG.6 Shifter shaft selective washer chart
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Disconnect the shift cables from the
transaxle by removing the cable clamp at the
transaxle.
3. Remove the cable ends from the ball studs
at the shift levers by twisting a large flat blade
tool between the nylon socket and the lever.
4. Remove the knob, console and shift boot.
5. Remove the cable ends from the ball studs
of the shifter by twisting a large flat blade tool
between the nylon socket and the shifter lever.
Do not pry the socket off the stud using the cable
end for leverage.
6. Remove the spring clip holding the cables
to the shifter base and remove the cables from
the shifter.
7. Remove the right front sill plate and pull
the carpet back to gain access to the cables.
8. Remove the cable grommet cover screws
and cover at the floor pan and remove the
cables.
9. To install, route the cables and install the
cable grommet cover and attaching screws at
the floor pan.
 DRIVE TRAIN 7-9
10. Install the shift cables at the control The one at the rear is installed from the engine guide the left axle shaft into place as the cradle
assembly. Snap the cable ends onto the ball side. is moved back into position.
studs using the channel locks. 4. Loosen the engine-to-transaxle bolt near 23. Install the two transaxle extension bolts
11. Reposition the carpet and install the sill the starter, but do not remove. into the engine-to-transaxle bracket.
plate. 5. Disconnect the speedometer cable at the 24. Install the lower engine-to-transaxle
12. Raise and support the vehicle safely. transaxle, or at the speed control transducer on bolts.
13. Route the cables to the transaxle. cars so equipped. 25. Install the flywheel to starter shield and
14. Lower the vehicle. 6. Remove the retaining clip and washer from retaining bolts.
15. Position the cables and install the the shift linkage at the transaxle. Remove the 26. Remove the boot protectors from the
retaining clamps at the transaxle. Connect the clips holding the cables to the mounting bosses driveshafts.
cables to the shift levers. on the case. 27. Install the top bolt to the lower front
16. Install the shift boot, console and knob. 7. Support the engine with a lifting chain. transaxle shock absorber.
17. Connect the negative battery cable. 8. Unlock the steering column and raise and 28. Install the four nuts and connect the front
support the car. Drain the transaxle. Remove the and rear transaxle mounts to the engine cradle.
two nuts attaching the stabilizer bar to the left Install the two rear center crossmember bolts.
lower control arm. Remove the four bolts which 29. Install the stabilizer bar.
Neutral Safety/Back-up attach the left retaining plate to the engine cradle. 30. Install the exhaust pipe and crossover.
Light Switch The retaining plate covers and holds the 31. Install the four bolts holding the right
stabilizer bar. stabilizer bracket.
9. Loosen the four bolts holding the right 32. Install the two nuts attaching the stabilizer
stabilizer bracket. bar to the left lower control arm. Install the four
10. Disconnect and remove the exhaust pipe bolts which attach the left retaining plate to the
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION and crossover if necessary. engine cradle.
11. Pull the stabilizer bar down on the left 33. Remove the transaxle jack, disconnect
1. Remove the shifter knob from the shifter side. the engine lifting chain and lower the vehicle.
by removing the retaining screw at the back of 12. Remove the four nuts and disconnect the 34. Fill the transaxle with the recommended
the knob. front and rear transaxle mounts from the engine fluid.
2. Remove the screws at the sides and front cradle. Remove the two rear center 35. Install the retaining clip and washer to the
of the console. crossmember bolts. shift linkage at the transaxle. Install the clips
3. Open the console box and remove the 13. Remove the three right side front cradle holding the cables to the mounting bosses on the
retaining screw inside the box. attaching bolts. They are accessible under the case.
4. Remove the ashtray at the rear of the splash shield. 36. Connect the speedometer cable at the
console and remove the retaining screw behind 14. Remove the top bolt from the lower front transaxle, or at the speed control transducer on
the ashtray. transaxle shock absorber if equipped. cars so equipped.
5. Slide the console rearward slightly, then lift 15. Remove the left front wheel. Remove the 37. Tighten the engine-to-transaxle bolt near
it over the shifter. front cradle-to-body bolts on the left side, and the starter.
6. Disconnect the wiring harness at the back¬ the rear cradle-to-body bolts. 38. Install the top four engine-to-transaxle
up light switch. 16. Pull the left side driveshaft from the bolts, and the one at the rear near the firewall.
7. Remove the switch from the base of the transaxle using G. M. special tool J-28468 or the The one at the rear is installed from the engine
shifter. equivalent. The right side axle shaft will simply side.
8. Reverse steps 1 through 7 to install the disconnect from the cage. When the transaxle is 39. Remove the two transaxle strut bracket
switch. removed, the right shaft can be swung out of the bolts on the left side of the engine compartment,
way. A boot protector should be used when if equipped.
disconnecting the driveshafts. 40. Connect the negative battery cable to the
17. Swing the cradle to the left side. Secure transaxle case.
Transaxle out of the way, outboard of the fender well.
18. Remove the flywheel and starter shield 1984-86
bolts, and remove the shields.
MT-125
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 19. Remove the two transaxle extension bolts
1. Disconnect the battery ground cable from
from the engine-to-transaxle bracket, if
the transaxle and support it with a wire.
equipped.
2. Disconnect the horn’s electrical lead and
20. Place a jack under the transaxle case.
1982-83 remove the horn’s mounting bolt. Remove the air
Remove the last engine-to-transaxle bolt. Pull the
cleaner.
MT-125 transaxle to the left, away from the engine, then
3. Support the clutch pedal upward against
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable from down and out from under the car.
To install: the bumper stop to release the pawl from the
the transaxle case. quadrant. Disconnect the clutch cable from the
2. Remove the two transaxle strut bracket 21. Place the transaxle on a jack and raise it
into position. Position the right axle shaft into its release lever at the transaxle.
bolts on the left side of the engine compartment,
if equipped. bore as the transaxle is bolted to the engine.
3. Remove the top four engine-to-transaxle 22. Swing the cradle into position and install
bolts, and the one at the rear near the firewall. the cradle-to-body bolts immediately. Be sure to
7-10 DRIVE TRAIN
19. Remove the flywheel/starter shield bolts. 33. Remove the drive axle boot protector tool
❖❖ CAUTION Connect a transaxle jack to the transaxle, then J-33162 from the drive axle boot. Install the left
remove the last engine-to-transaxle bolt. front wheel and tire assembly.
DO NOT allow the clutch cable to
20. Slide the transaxle away from the engine, 34. Remove the engine support tool J-
snap rapidly toward the rear of the
lower the jack and move the transaxle away from 22825-1. Lower the vehicle and fill the transaxle
vehicle, for the quadrant In the
adjusting mechanism can be the vehicle. with fluid.
To install: 35. Connect the speedometer cable at the
damaged.
21. Place the transaxle on a jack and raise it transaxle. Install the top engine-to-transaxle
into position. Position the right axle shaft into its bolts.
4. Lift the locking pawl away from the bore as the transaxle is bolted to the engine. 36. Install the shift linkage retaining clips and
quadrant and slide the cable out to the right side 22. Swing the cradle into position and install the shift cable retaining clips to the transaxle
of the quadrant. the cradle-to-body bolts immediately. Be sure to bosses.
5. At the right side of the cowl, disconnect guide the left axle shaft into place as the cradle 37. If equipped with a V6 engine, connect the
the cable retainer-to-upper stud nuts. Disconnect is moved back into position. fuel lines and clamps to the clutch cable bracket,
the cable from the transaxle bracket and remove 23. Install the flywheel/starter shield and then install the exhaust crossover pipe.
the cable. bolts. 38. At the right side of the cowl, connect the
6. If equipped with a V6 engine, disconnect 24. Install the left side and front cable retainer-to-upper stud nuts. Install the
the fuel lines and clamps from the clutch cable crossmember assembly. cable to the transaxle bracket.
bracket, then remove the exhaust crossover 25. Install the crossmember side bolts and 39. Lift the locking pawl away from the
pipe. the left side body bolts. quadrant and slide the cable into the right side of
7. At the transaxle, remove the shift linkage 26. Connect the engine/transaxle mounts to the quadrant.
retaining clips and the shift cable retaining clips the cradle. 40. Connect the clutch cable to the release
from the transaxle bosses. 27. Connect the left side lower ball joint to the lever at the transaxle. Return the clutch pedal to
8. Disconnect the speedometer cable at the steering knuckle. its normal position.
transaxle. Remove the top engine-to-transaxle 28. Connect the front stabilizer to the left 41. Connect the horn’s electrical lead and
bolts. lower control arm. install the mounting bolt. Install the air cleaner.
9. Install and support the engine with tool J- 29. Connect the drive line vibration absorber. 42. Connect the battery ground cable to the
22825-1. Raise the vehicle and drain the 30. Install the stabilizer bar reinforcements, transaxle.
transaxle fluid. and the steering gear.
31. Install the power steering pressure line 1987-88
10. Install the drive axle boot protector tool
J-33162 to the drive axle boot. Remove the left brackets. MUNCIE
front wheel and tire assembly. 32. Turn the steering wheel so that the 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
IT. Turn the steering wheel so that the intermediate shaft-to-steering gear stub shaft is 2. Remove the air cleaner and air intake duct
intermediate shaft-to-steering gear stub shaft is in the upward position, then install the bolt. assembly.
in the upward position, then remove the bolt.
12. Position a floor jack under the engine to
act as a support. Remove the power steering
pressure line brackets.
13. Remove the steering gear mounting
bolts, then support the steering gear. Disconnect
the drive line vibration absorber, the front
stabilizer from the left side lower control arm and
the left side lower ball joint from the steering
knuckle.
14. Remove both sides of the stabilizer bar
reinforcements.
15. Using a Vz in. drill bit, drill through the
spot weld (located between the rear holes of the
left side front stabilizer bar mounting).
16. Disconnect the engine/transaxle mounts
from the cradle. Remove the crossmember side
bolts and the left side body bolts.
17. Remove the left side and the front
crossmember assembly.
18. Using tools J—33008, J-29794 and J-
261901, remove the left drive axle from the
transaxle and the support.
The right drive axle can be
removed when the transaxle is
removed from the vehicle.
 DRIVE TRAIN 7-11
3. Remove the sound insulator from inside 24. Connect the transaxle to the front and rear 36. Install the clutch slave cylinder to the
the car. mounts. transaxle.
4. Remove the clutch master cylinder push 25. Connect the speedometer cable. 37. Install the clutch master cylinder push
rod from the clutch pedal. 26. Install the clutch housing cover bolts. rod from the clutch pedal.
5. Remove the clutch slave cylinder from the 27. Remove the drive axle boot seal 38. Install the sound insulator inside the car.
transaxle. protectors, Tool J-34754. 39. Install the air intake duct assembly and
6. Disconnect the exhaust crossover pipe. 28. Fill the transaxle with the proper fluid. the air cleaner.
7. Disconnect the shift cables at the 29. Install the left side frame and connect the 40. Connect the negative battery cable.
transaxle. rear transaxle mount to the bracket (if not already
8. Install the engine support fixture J- done). 1989-92
28467. 30. Install the left and right front wheel and 4-SPEED
9. Remove the top engine to transaxle bolts. tire. 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
10. Raise the car and suitably support it. 31. Remove the jack and safety supports and Drain the transaxle.
11. Remove the L.H. and R.H. front wheel lower the car. 2. Remove the 2 transaxle strut bracket bolts
and tire. 32. Install the top engine to transaxle bolts. on the left side of the engine compartment, if
12. Install the drive axle boot seal protectors, 33. Remove the engine support fixture J- equipped.
Tool J—34754. 28467. 3. If equipped with a V6 engine, disconnect
13. Remove the L.H. side frame and 34. Connect the shift cables at the transaxle. the fuel lines and fuel line clamps at the clutch
disconnect the rear transaxle mount from the 35. Connect the exhaust crossover pipe. cable bracket, as required.
bracket.
14. Drain the transaxle.
15. Disengage the R.H. and L.H. drive axles'
from the transaxle.
16. Remove the clutch housing cover bolts.
17. Disconnect the speedometer cable.
18. Attach a jack to the transaxle case.
19. Remove the remaining transaxle to
engine bolts.
20. Slide the transaxle away from the engine.
Carefully lower the jack while guiding the R.H.
drive axle out of the transaxle.
To install:
21. Place the transaxle on a jack and guide it
into the vehicle, position the right drive axle shaft
into its bore as the transaxle is being installed.
The R.H. shaft CANNOT be readily installed after
the transaxie is connected to the engine.
22. Install the transaxle to engine bolts.
23. After the transaxle is fastened to the
engine and the left drive axle is installed at the
transaxle, position the left side frame and install
the frame to body bolts.

40-50 N*m
(29-36 FT. LBS.)

40-50 N*m
(29-36 FT. LBS. TRANS MTG
ASM
FRONT
MOUNT REAR
MOUNT

45-65 N*m
(33-47 FT. LBS.)

TRANS MTG ASM

45-65 N»m
(33-47 FT. LBS

FIG.9a Transaxle mounts

7-12 DRIVE TRAIN
4. Remove the top 4 engine-to-transaxle the cradle into position and install the cradle-to- 5. Remove the clutch slave cylinder from the
bolts and the one at the rear near the firewall. The body bolts immediately. Be sure to guide the left transaxle.
one at the rear is installed from the engine side. halfshaft into place as the cradle is moved back 6. Disconnect the exhaust crossover pipe.
5. Loosen the engine-to-transaxle bolt near into position. 7. Disconnect the shift cables at the
the starter but do not remove. 23. If removed, install the 2 transaxle transaxle.
6. Disconnect the speedometer cable at the extension bolts to the engine-to-transaxle 8. Install the engine support fixture J-
transaxle or at the speed control transducer, if bracket. 28467.
equipped. 24. Install flywheel, starter shield and 9. Remove the top engine-to-transaxle bolts.
7. Remove the retaining clip and washer from attaching bolts. 10. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
the shift linkage at the transaxle. Remove the 25. Install the front cradle-to-body bolts on 11. Install the halfshaft boot seal protectors
clips holding the cables to the mounting bosses the left side and the rear cradle-to-body bolts. with special tool J—34754.
on the case. Install the left front wheel. 12. Remove the left front wheel and tire.
8. Support the engine with a lifting chain. 26. If removed, install the top bolt to the 13. Remove the left side frame and
9. Unlock the steering column. Raise and lower front transaxle shock absorber. disconnect the rear transaxle mount from the
safely support the vehicle. Drain the transaxle. 27. Install the 3 right side front cradle bracket.
Remove the 2 nuts attaching the stabilizer bar to attaching bolts. 14. Drain the transaxle.
the left lower control arm. Remove the 4 bolts 28. Connect the front and rear transaxle 15. Disengage the halfshafts from the
which attach the left retaining plate to the engine mounts to the engine cradle and install the 4 transaxle.
cradle. The retaining plate covers holds the nuts. Install the 2 rear center crossmember 16. Remove the clutch housing cover bolts.
stabilizer bar. bolts. 17. Disconnect the speedometer cable.
10. Loosen the 4 bolts holding the right 29. Place the stabilizer bar in its mounting 18. Attach a jack to the transaxle case.
stabilizer bracket. position. 19. Remove the remaining transaxle-to-
11. Disconnect and remove the exhaust pipe 30. Install and connect the exhaust pipe and engine bolts.
and crossover, if necessary. crossover. 20. Slide the transaxle away from the engine.
12. Pull the stabilizer bar down on the left 31. Tighten the 4 bolts holding the right Carefully lower the jack while guiding the right
side. stabilizer bracket. halfshaft from the transaxle.
13. Remove the 4 nuts and disconnect the 32. Lower the vehicle. To install:
front and rear transaxle mounts from the engine 33. Install the 2 nuts attaching the stabilizer 21. Place the transaxle into position in the
cradle. Remove the 2 rear center crossmember bar to the left side lower control arm. vehicle. When installing the transaxle, position
bolts. 34. Install the 4 bolts attaching the left the right halfshaft shaft into its bore as the
14. Remove the 3 right side front cradle retaining plate to the engine cradle. transaxle is being installed. The right shaft
attaching bolts. They are accessible under the 35. Remove the engine support fixture. cannot be readily installed after the transaxle is
splash shield. 36. Install the clips holding the cables to the connected to the engine.
15. Remove the top bolt from the lower front mounting bosses on the case. Install the 22. After the transaxle is fastened to the
transaxle shock absorber, if equipped. retaining clip and washer to the shift linkage at engine and the left halfshaft is installed at the
16. Remove the left front wheel. Remove the the transaxle. transaxle, position the left side frame and install
front cradle-to-body bolts on the left side, and 37. Connect the speedometer cable at the the frame to body bolts.
the rear cradle-to-body bolts. transaxle or at the speed control transducer, if 23. Connect the transaxle to the front and rear
17. Pull the left side driveshaft from the equipped. mounts.
transaxle using special tool J—28468 or 38. Tighten the engine-to-transaxle bolt near 24. Install the remaining transaxle-to-engine
equivalent. The right side halfshaft will simply the starter. bolts.
disconnect from the case. When the transaxle is 39. Install the top 4 engine-to-transaxle bolts 25. Remove the jack.
removed, the right shaft can be swung aside. A and the one at the rear near the firewall. 26. Connect the speedometer cable.
boot protector should be used when 40. If removed, connect the fuel lines and fuel 27. Install the clutch housing cover bolts.
disconnecting the driveshafts. line clamps to the clutch cable bracket. 28. Engage the halfshafts to the transaxle.
18. Swing the cradle to the left side. Secure 41. If removed, install the 2 transaxle strut 29. Install the left side frame and Connect the
aside, outboard of the fender well. bracket bolts on the left side of the engine rear transaxle mount to the bracket.
19. Remove the flywheel and starter shield compartment. 30. Install the left front wheel and tire.
bolts and remove the shields. 42. Fill the transaxle. Connect the negative 31. Install the halfshaft boot seal protectors
20. Remove the 2 transaxle extension bolts battery cable. with special tool J—34754.
from the engine-to-transaxle bracket, if 32. Lower the vehicle.
5-SPEED
equipped. 33. Install the top engine-to-transaxle bolts.
21. Place a jack under the transaxle case. 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Drain the transaxle. 34. Remove the engine support fixture.
Remove the last engine-to-transaxle bolt. Pull the 35. Connect the shift cables to the transaxle.
transaxle to the left, away from the engine, then 2. Remove the air cleaner and air intake duct
assembly. 36. Connect the exhaust crossover pipe.
down and out from under the vehicle. 37. Install the clutch slave cylinder to the
To install: 3. Remove the sound insulator from inside
the vehicle. transaxle.
22. Place the transaxle under the vehicle and 38. Install the clutch master cylinder pushrod
4. Remove the clutch master cylinder
raise into position. Position the right halfshaft to the clutch pedal.
pushrod from the clutch pedal.
into its bore as the transaxle is being installed. 39. Install the sound insulator from inside the
When the transaxle is bolted to the engine, swing vehicle.
 DRIVE TRAIN 7-13
40. Install the air cleaner and air intake duct ASSEMBLY against the countergear bearing) and secure with
assembly. a snapring.
41. Connect the negative battery cable. 16. Install the snapring, the thrust washer and
1. Using a press, install the shielded ball the Reverse idler gear (with the gear teeth
bearing to the clutch gear shaft with the snapring chamfer facing down) to the idler shaft, then
groove up. secure with the thrust washer and the snapring.
MT-125 Transaxle 2. Install the snapring on the clutch gear 17. Install the shifter shaft snaprings and
Overhaul shaft. Place the pilot bearings into the clutch gear engage the speedometer gear retainer in the hole
cavity, using heavy grease to hold them in place. in the mainshaft (with the retainer loop toward
3. Assemble the clutch gear to the mainshaft the front), then slide the speedometer gear over
The following procedure is for the 4 speed and the detent lever to the shift shaft with the roll the mainshaft and into position.
transaxle, expect some applications. For the pin.
Celebrity with 4 cylinder engine from 1984 and Before installation, heat the gear
4. Position the 1st-2nd gear shifter so that it to 175°F; use an oven or heat lamp,
newer with a 4 speed follow procedures for
engages the detent lever. » not a torch.
Munice 4-speed transaxle.
5. Assemble the 3rd-4th gear shifter fork to
the detent bushing and slide the assembly on the 18. Place the extension housing and the
shift shaft to place it below the 1st-2nd shifter gasket on the case, then loosely install the two
TRANSAXLE CASE fork arm. pilot bolts (one in the top right hand comer and
DISSASSEMBLY the other in the bottom left hand comer) and the
6. Install the shifter assembly to the
other three bolts. The pilot bolts must be
synchronizer sleeve grooves on the mainshaft.
installed in the right holes to prevent splitting the
1. Place the transmission so that it is resting 5. With the front of the bell housing resting on
case.
on the bell housing. wooden blocks, place a thrust washer over the
19. Assemble the shifter shaft arm over the
hole for the countergear shaft. The thrust washer
2. Drive the spring pin from the shifter shaft shifter shaft, align with the drilled hole near the
must be placed in the holes in the bellhousing.
arm assembly and the shifter shaft, then remove end of the shaft, then drive the spring pin into the
the shifter shaft arm assembly. 6. Mesh the countershaft gears to the shifter shaft arm and shaft.
3. Remove the five extension housing-to- mainshaft gears and install this assembly into
20. Turn the case on its side and loosely
the bellhousing.
case bolts and the extension housing. install the two pilot bolts through the bell housing
7. Turn the bellhousing on its side, then install and then the four retaining bolts.
4. Press down on the speedometer gear
the snapring to the ball bearing on the clutch gear
retainer, then remove the gear and the retainer
and the bearing retainer to the bell housing. Use
from the mainshaft.
sealant on the four retaining bolts.
5. Remove the snaprings from the shifter MAINSHAFT DISASSEMBLY
8. Turn the bell housing (so that it is resting
shaft, then the Reverse shifter shaft cover, the
on the blocks) and install the Reverse lever to the
shifter shaft detent cap, the spring, the ball and
case using grease to hold it in place. When 1. Separate the shift shaft assembly and
the interlock lock pin.
installing the Reverse lever, the screwdriver slot countergear from the mainshaft.
6. Pull the Reverse lever shaft outward to
should be parallel to the front of the case. 2. Remove the clutch gear and the blocking
disengage the Reverse idler, then remove the
9. Install the Reverse lever snapring and the ring from the mainshaft; make sure you don’t
idler shaft with the gear attached.
roller bearing-to-countergear opening with the lose any of the clutch gear roller bearings.
7. Remove the Reverse gear snapring, the
snapring groove inside of the case. 3. Remove the 3rd-4th gear synchronizer hub
Reverse countershaft gear and the gears.
10. Using rubber cement, install the gasket snapring and the hub, using an arbor press (if
8. Turn the case on its side and remove the
on the bell housing. Before installing the case, necessary).
clutch gear bearing retainer bolts, the retainer
make sure the synchronizers are in the Neutral 4. Remove the blocking ring and the 3rd
and the gasket.
position, the detent bushing slot is facing speed gear. Using an arbor press and press
9. Remove the clutch gear ball bearing-to-
outward and the Reverse lever is flush with the plates, remove the ball bearing from the rear of
bell housing snapring, then the bell housing-to-
inside wall of the case. the mainshaft. Remove the remaining parts from
case bolts.
11. Expand the snapring in the mainshaft the mainshaft keeping them in order for later
10. Turn the case so that it rests on the bell
case opening and let it slide over the bearing. reassembly.
housing, then expand the mainshaft bearing
12. Install the interlock lock pin with locking
snapring and remove the case by lifting it off the
compound to hold the shifter shaft in place and
mainshaft.
the idler shaft so it engages with the Reverse ASSEMBLY
Make sure that the mainshaft lever inside the shaft.
assembly, the countergear and 13. Install the cover over the screwdriver arm
shifter shaft assembly stay with the to hold the Reverse lever in place. 1. With the rear of the mainshaft turned up,
bell housing. install the 2nd speed gear with the clutching
14. Install the detent ball, the spring and the
teeth facing upward; the rear face of the gear will
11. Lift the entire mainshaft assembly cap in the case, then the Reverse gear (with the
butt against the flange of the mainshaft
complete with shifter forks and countergear from chamfer on the gear teeth facing up). Push the
Reverse gear onto the splines and secure with a 2. Install a blocking ring (with the clutching
the bell housing.
snapring. teeth down) over the 2nd speed gear.
3. Install the 1st-2nd synchronizer assembly
15. Install the smaller Reverse gear on the
countergear shaft (with the shoulder resting (with the fork slot down), then press it onto the
splines on the mainshaft until it bottoms.
 7-14 DRIVE TRAIN
Make sure the notches of the DRIVE GEAR BEARING OIL snaprings is not recommended but should they
blocking ring align with the keys of be: compress the internal ones and compress
the synchronizer assembly.
SEAL REPLACEMENT
the external ones.
4. Install the synchronizer hub-to-mainshaft
snapring, then install a blocking ring (with the Pry out the old seal and install a new one
notches facing down) so they align with the keys making sure that it bottoms properly in its bore. TRANSAXLE DISASSEMBLY
of the 1st-2nd gear synchronizer assembly.
5. Install the 1st speed gear (with the 1. Secure the transaxle to a work stand.
clutching teeth down), then the rear ball bearing
(with the snapring groove down) and press it into
Muncie 4-Speed 2. Remove the clutch cover-to-transaxle
Overhaul bolts. Using a plastic hammer, carefully tap the
place on the mainshaft. clutch cover from the transaxle case.
6. Turn the mainshaft up and install the 3rd 3. Remove the ring gear/differential
speed gear (with the clutching teeth facing up); assembly.
the front face of the gear will butt against the 4. Move the shifter shaft into the N position;
flange on the mainshaft. BEFORE DISASSEMBLY the shifter should move freely and not be
7. Install a blocking ring (with the clutching engaged in any gear.
teeth facing down) overthe synchronizer surface 5. At the shifter shaft, bend back the lock tab
of the 3rd speed gear. When servicing the transaxle it is important to
and remove the bolt. Remove the shifter shaft
8. Install the 3rd-4th gear synchronizer be aware of cleanliness. Before disassembling
and the shift fork shaft from the synchronizer
assembly (with the fork slot facing down); make the transaxle, the outside should be throughly
forks.
sure the notches of the blocking ring align with cleaned, preferably with a high-pressure spray
6. Disengage the reverse shift fork from the
the keys of the synchronizer assembly. cleaning equipment. Dirt entering the unit may
guide pin and interlock bracket, then, remove the
9. Install the synchronizer hub-to-mainshaft negate all the effort and time spent on the
overhaul. reverse shift fork.
snapring and a blocking ring (with the notches 7. Remove the reverse idler gear shaft lock
facing down) so that they align with the keys of During inspection and reassembly, all parts
should be cleaned with solvent and dried with bolt and the gear/shaft/spacer assembly.
the 3rd-4th gear synchronizer assembly. 8. Remove the detent shift lever and interlock
compressed air. Lubricate the seals with
transaxle fluid and use petroleum jelly to hold the assembly. Do not remove the shift forks from the
thrust washers; this will ease the assembly of synchronizer or the detent spring.
SYNCHRONIZER KEYS AND 9. Grasp both the input and output shafts and
the seals and not leave harmful residues in the
SPRINGS REPLACEMENT system. Do not use solvent on neoprene seals, if lift them (as an assembly) from the case.
they are to be reused. When removing the Input/output
1. The synchronizer hubs and the sliding Before installing bolts into aluminum parts, dip shaft assembly, note the position of
sleeves are an assembly which should be kept the threads into clean transmission fluid. Anti¬ the shift forks for reassembly
together as an assembly; the keys and the seize compound may be used to prevent galling purposes. The terms right hand
springs can be replaced. the aluminum or seizing. Be sure to use a torque and left hand refer to the Installed
2. Mark the position of the hub and the sleeve wrench to prevent stripping the threads. Be positions on the vehicle. Right hand
for reassembly. especially careful when installing the seals, the refers to the end nearest the clutch
3. Push the hub from the sliding sleeve; the smallest nick can cause a leak. Aluminum parts (passenger side); left hand refers to
keys will fall out and the springs can be easily are very susceptible to damage; great care the end farthest from the clutch
removed. should be used when handling them. Reusing (drivers side).
4. Place the new springs in position (with one
on each side of the hub) so that the three keys
are engaged by both springs.
5. Place and hold the keys in position, then
slide the sleeve into the hub aligning the marks
made during disassembly.

EXTENSION OIL SEAL

REPLACEMENT

1. Pry the oil seal and drive the bushing from

rear of the extension housing.
2. Coat the inside diameter of the seal and
bushing with transmission fluid and install them.
 DRIVE TRAIN 7-15
INPUT SHAFT DISASSEMBLY

1. From the input shaft, remove (slide) the left

hand bearing and the 4th gear.
2. Remove the brass blocker ring and the
snapring from the 3-4 synchronizer.
3. Using a shop press and support plates
(behind the 3rd gear), press the 3rd gear and
3-4 synchronizer from the input shaft.
4. Using the input shaft right hand bearing
remover tool or equivalent, press the right hand
bearing from the shaft.

PRESS

FIG.15 Removing the 3-4 synchronizer and

3rd gear from the input shaft

FIG.13 Removing the Interlock assembly

7-16 DRIVE TRAIN
 DRIVE TRAIN 7-17
1. Case assembly 27. Output bearing spacer 67. Reverse inhibitor
2. Vent assembly adjustment shim 46. Clutch and spring washer
3. Magnet 28. Output bearing oil differential housing 68. 3rd/4rd shift fork
4. Pin shield 47. Screw 69. Shift shaft fork
5. Washer 29. Output bearing oil 48. Speedo gear fitting 70. Screw
6. Drain screw shield retainer retainer 71. Oil guide
7. Bolt 30. 4th input gear 49. Speedo driven gear 72. 1st/2nd shift fork
8. Fill plug washer 31. Synchronizer sleeve 73. Clutch fork shaft seal
9. Fill plug assembly 50. Speedo gear sleeve assembly
10. Axle shaft seal 32. 3rd input gear seal 74. Clutch fork shaft
11. Plug 33. Input cluster gear 51. Speedo driven gear bearing
12. Oil shield 34. Input bearing 52. Reverse inhibitor 75. Clutch fork shaft
13. Bearing assembly assembly spring seat assembly
14. 4th output gear 35. Screw 53. Reverse inhibitor 76. Differential assembly
15. 3rd output gear 36. Input gear bearing spring 77. Differential bearing
retaining ring assembly shim 54. Pin assembly
16. 3rd output gear 37. Input gear seal 55. Reverse shift lever 78. Differential case
17. 2nd output gear assembly 56. Reverse lever 79. Differential pinion
18. Synchronizer 38. Input gear seal locating stud shaft
blocking ring assembly 57. Lever assembly 80. Speedo drive gear
19. Synchronizer 39. Input gear bearing detent 81. Differential bearing
blocking ring retainer retainer assembly 58. Lock detent lever adjustment shim
20. Synchronizer 40. Input gear bearing washer 82. Pinion thrust washer
blocking ring spring retainer seal 59. Detent spring 83. Differential Pinion
21. Synchronizer key 41. Clutch release 60. Bolt gear
22. Synchronizer bearing assembly 61. Shift shaft 84. Side gear thrust
assembly 42T. Reverse idler screw 62. Shift shaft seal washer
23. 1 st output gear and washer assembly 85. Differential side gear
24. Oil shield sleeve 43. Reverse idler shaft 63. Bolt 86. Lockwasher
25. Output gear 44. Reverse idler gear 64. Nut 87. Pinion shaft screw
26. Output bearing assembly 65. Shift interlock 88. Differential ring gear
assembly 45. Reverse idler shaft 66. Shift shaft shim 89. Bolt

FlG.14a Explode view of GM125-4 - 4-speed transaxle

INSPECTION

1. Check the input shaft bearing surfaces for

scoring and/or wear; if necessary, replace the
shaft. '
2. Check the input shaft splines for wear; if
necessary, replace the shaft.
3. Inspect the bearings for scoring, wear and/
or damage; if necessary, replace them.
4. Check the gears and synchronizer parts for
damage and/or excessively worn teeth; if
necessary, replace them.

ASSEMBLY

-p* 1. Using the input shaft right hand bearing

installer tool or equivalent and a shop press,
C~q press the right hand bearing onto the input shaft.
2. Position the 3rd gear onto the shaft
(aligned with the 3-4 synchronizer), the brass
blocker ring onto the gear cone and the 3-4
synchronizer. Using a deep socket or a piece of
pipe, position it on the synchronizer hub (not the
sleeve) and press the synchronizer hub onto the
shaft.
"f
3. Install the snapring (beveled edges away
FIG.16 Removing the right bearing from FIG.17 Installing the right bearing on the
from synchronizer) to secure the 3-4
the input shaft input shaft
synchronizer.
7-18 DRIVE TRAIN
POSITION SNAP RING PRESS
AS SHOWN TO ALLOW
EASY USE OF SNAP
RING PLIERS LATER

3RD GEAR

2ND SPEED
GEAR

wwwv

3 SUPPORT

FIG.19 Install the snapring on the input shaft

3
PRESS
FIG.21 Removing the 3rd and 2nd gears
PILOT
from the output shaft
L.H.
BEARING
4TH GEAR
PRESS

^ SUPPORT

1-2 SYNCHRONIZER

1ST SPEED

j~l/GEAR
kVxVWVVvV

FIG.22 Removing the 1-2 synchronizer and

4. Install the brass blocker ring. FIG.20 Removing the left bearing and 4th the 1st gear from the output shaft
5. Position the 4th gear (aligned with the 3-4
gear from the output shaft
synchronizer) and the left hand bearing onto the
input shaft. 6. Using the output shaft right hand bearing
or equivalent, and support plates (behind the 4th remover tool or equivalent, and the input/output
gear), press the 4th gear and the left hand shaft pilot tool or equivalent, press the right hand
OUTPUT SHAFT bearing from the output shaft. bearing from the output shaft. This procedure is
2. Remove the 3rd gear snapring. complete precede to inspection and assembly.
DISASSEMBLY 7. For the MX-6 transaxle, from the left end of
3. Move the 1-2 synchronizer into the 1st
gear position and allow the press to support the the shaft, remove the retainer.
There are two variations of this procedure one 2nd gear. Press the 2nd and 3rd gears from the p» The retainer and shaft are
from the MX-6 version and others the steps 1 to output shaft. Remove the brass blocker ring. designed with left hand threads.
6 are for all except the MX-6. For the MX-6 4. Remove the 1-2 synchronizer snapring. The 3rd/4th gear is a one piece
follow steps 7 through 12. 5. Place press plates behind the 1st gear and gear.
1. Except MX-6, by using a shop press, the press the 1st gear/1-2 synchronizer from the 8. Using a shop press, the input/output shaft
input/output shaft pilot tool (for bearing removal) output shaft. pilot tool (forbearing removal) or equivalent, and
 DRIVE TRAIN 7-19
PRESS INSPECTION
PILOT

aiiBrrrT1®—
\\\\\\' r -T“— \\\\VV
XXXXXX'
1. Check the output shaft bearing surfaces for
scoring and/or wear; if necessary, replace the
O SUPPORT shaft.
nxxxxxx 2. Check the output shaft splines for wear; if
necessary, replace the shaft.
3. Inspect the bearings for scoring, wear and/
or damage; if necessary, replace them.
4. Check the gears and synchronizer parts for
damage and/or excessively worn teeth; if
necessary, replace them.

ASSEMBLY

Steps 1 to 7 are for all except the MX-6. For

FIG.23 Removing the right bearing from the
output shaft the MX-6 follow steps 8 through 14.
1. Except on the MX-6, by using a shop press
and the input/output shaft pilot tool or equivalent,
PRESS press the right hand bearing onto the output
shaft.
PILOT
2. Position the 1st gear onto the shaft
(aligned with the 1-2 synchronizer), the brass
■x, T": A L.HJJEARING
l.m. d blocker ring onto the gear cone and the 1-2
4TH GEAR synchronizer. Using a deep socket or a piece of
pipe, position it on the synchronizer hub (not the
\W\ sleeve) and press the synchronizer hub onto the
C SUPPORT
> Cl IDO
shaft.
NXXXVsX
PRESS
d 3RD GEAR

I o
5
3

MX6 ONLY

&
£
S
J

ST'
R.H.
BEARING

N SUPPORT

FIG.24 Removing the left bearing and 3rd/4th

gear from the output shaft

support plates (behind the 4th gear), press the

3rd/4th gear and the left hand bearing from the
output shaft.
9. Remove the 2nd gear and the brass
blocker ring from the output shaft.
10. Remove the 1-2 synchronizer snapring.
11. Using a shop press and press plates
(behind the 1st gear), press the 1st gear and the
1-2 synchronizer from the output shaft.
12. Using the output shaft right hand bearing
remover tool or equivalent, and the input/output FIG.25 Installing the right bearing on the
shaft pilot tool or equivalent, press the right hand output shaft
bearing from the output shaft.
7-20 DRIVE TRAIN
3. Install the snapring to secure the 1-2 INSPECTION
synchronizer.
4. Install the brass blocker ring.
5. Position the 2nd gear (aligned with the 1-2 Clean, inspect and/or replace any worn or
synchronizer) and press the 3rd gear (aligned damaged parts.
with the 4th gear hub) onto the output shaft; use
a deep socket or a piece of pipe, positioned on
the 3rd gear hub. ASSEMBLY
6. Install the 3rd gear snapring.
7. Using support plates, press the 4th gear
1. Align the scribe marks and assemble the
(aligned with the 3rd gear) onto the output shaft.
hub to the sleeve; the extruded hub lip should be
Using the input/output shaft inner race installer directed away from the sleeve’s shift fork
tool or equivalent, install the left hand bearing
groove.
onto the output shaft. This completes the
2. Install a retaining ring. Carefully pry the
assembly, precede to transaxle case
ring back and insert the keys (one at a time); be
disassembly.
sure to position the ring so it is captured by the
8. For the MX-6 model transaxles, using a
keys.
shop press and the input/output shaft pilot tool or
3. Install the other retaining ring; be sure the
equivalent, press the right hand bearing onto the
ring’s open segment is out of phase with the
output shaft.
open segment of the other ring.
9. Position the 1st gear onto the shaft
(aligned with the 1-2 synchronizer), the brass
blocker ring onto the gear cone and the 1-2
synchronizer. Using a deep socket or a piece of TRANSAXLE CASE
pipe, position it on the synchronizer hub (not the DISASSEMBLY
sleeve) and press the synchronizer hub onto the
shaft.
1. From the exterior of the case, remove the
10. Install the snapring to secure the 1-2
reverse inhibitor fitting.
synchronizer.
2. From inside the case, remove the spring
and pilot/spacer.
PRESS
3. Using the transaxle case bearing cup
remover tool or equivalent, and a slide hammer
11. Install the brass blocker ring. puller, press the input/output shaft left hand
L.H. 12. Position the 2nd gear (aligned with the 1- bearing cups and the differential side bearing
n"l F A^BEARING 2 synchronizer) onto the output shaft. cups from the transaxle case.
r L-J V, 13. Using support plates, press the 3rd/4th 4. Remove the oil slingers.
L gear onto the output shaft.
“^4TH GEAR
14. Using the input/output shaft inner race
installer tool or equivalent, press the left hand INSPECTION
J L bearing onto the output shaft.
r 15. Install the left hand bearing retainer and
torque it to 37-55 ft. lbs. (50-75 Nm). 1. At the interlock bracket and the reverse
shift fork, check both guide pins for wear;

r i SYNCHRONIZER
DISASSEMBLY
replace them, if necessary.
2. Check, clean and install the magnet.
3. Using a gasket remover tool or equivalent,

P~5 The transaxle is equipped with 2

remove the sealant from the mating surfaces; be
careful not to gouge or damage the aluminum
surfaces, for leaks can result.
synchronizers: a 1-2 and a 3-4.

\1)urT< 7
1. From each synchronizer, remove both key
springs.
2. Noting the relative positions, separate the
ASSEMBLY
hub, sleeve and keys; be sure to scribe the hub-
[ 1. Using the transaxle case bearing cup
to-sleeve location.
installer tool or equivalent, install the differential
side bearing cups into the transaxle case.
2. Install the oil slingers.
FIG.32 Installing the 4th gear and left
bearing on the output shaft
 DRIVE TRAIN 7-21
3. Using the axle shaft seal and bearing cup
installer tool or equivalent, install the inpuVoutput
shaft left hand bearing cups into the transaxle
case.
4. Inside the case, install the spring and pilot/
spacer.
5. Outside the case, install the reverse
inhibitor fitting.

CLUTCH COVER
DISASSEMBLY

1. Using the transaxle case bearing cup

remover tool or equivalent, remove the
differential side bearing cup/shim and the input/
output shafts right hand bearing cup. From the
back of the input bearing cup, remove the shim.
From the back of the output shaft bearing cup,
remove the oil shield, the shim and the retainer.
2. Remove the input gear bearing retainer
bolts and tap the sleeve.
3. From the sleeve, remove the external and
internal oil rings.
4. Remove the plastic oil scoop.
If it is necessary to replace the
clutch for shaft or bushing, do not
break the weld on the clutch fork to
remove it.
5. Using the clutch shaft bushing installer/
remover tool or equivalent, remove the shaft
bushings and slide the clutch shaft from the case
at a slight angle.

INSPECTION

1. Check, clean and install the magnet.

2. Using a gasket remover tool or equivalent,
remove the sealant from the mating surfaces; be
careful not to gouge or damage the aluminum
surfaces, for leaks can result.

ASSEMBLY

1. Install a new clutch fork shaft seal and the

clutch fork shaft.
2. Install the plastic oil scoop.
3. On the bearing retainer, install a new oil
ring.
4. Install the bearing retainer and torque the
bolts to 7 ft. lbs. (9 Nm).
5. Using the right hand input shaft seal and
bearing cup installer tool or equivalent, install the
new internal oil seal and the bearing cups.
FIG.30 Proper positioning of the oil seal and ring
7-22 DRIVE TRAIN
2. Grasp both shafts (as an assembly) and
carefully lower them into the case; be careful not
to nick the gears.
3. Using a guide pin tool or equivalent,
position the interlock bracket on it; be sure the
bracket engages the shifting forks fingers.
4. Using a straight edge, position it on both
sides of the interlock, to determine if the detent
is out alignment with the interlock.
f*- The straight edge should rest on
both sides off the interlock without
interference from the detent
paddle.
5. If interference is noted on either sides,
perform the following procedures:
a. With the alignment pin still in position,
place the detent and interlock assembly in a

DIFFERENTIAL CASE/RING
GEAR DISASSEMBLY

1. Separate the ring gear from the differential

case.
2. Remove the pinion shaft lock bolt, the
pinion shaft, the gears and the thrust washers.
3. Using the differential side bearing puller leg
tools or equivalent, and the puller, press the
bearings from the differential case.

INSPECTION

Clean and inspect the parts for damage;

replace the parts, if necessary.

ASSEMBLY

1. Using the cone installer tool or equivalent,

install the side bearings into the differential case.
2. Install the gears and thrust washers into
the case.
3. Install the pinion shaft and lock bolt; torque
the lock bolt to 7 ft. lbs. (9 Nm).
4. Attach the ring gear to the differential case,
apply sealant to the ring gear bolts and torque
them to 54 ft. lbs. (73 Nm).

TRANSAXLE ASSEMBLY

1. Position the input and output shafts on a

bench, mesh the gears and install both shift
forks.
 DRIVE TRAIN 7-23

vise. Using light pressure, press the detent 8. Onto the guide pin, install the reverse through the detent shift lever. Bend the lock tab
paddle into alignment. shift fork; be sure the fork engages with the over the bolt head.
b. Loosen the detent spring-to-interlock interlock bracket 11. Through the synchronizer forks and into
nut; the detent spring is slotted beneath the nut 9. Install the reverse idler gear and shaft the case bore, install the fork shaft.
and will seek proper alignment into position; be sure the shaft’s long end 12. Carefully install the ring gear/differential
c. While exerting thumb pressure on the points upward and the gear teeth (large assembly into the case. Install the magnet.
spring, tighten the detent spring-to-interlock chamfered ends) are facing upward. Install the 13. To adjust the transaxle for the correct
nut. spacer onto the shaft. shim sizes, perform the following procedures:
d. Using a straight edge, recheck the a. Place the transaxle case into holding
The reverse Idler shaft’s flat faces
detent alignment. fixture tool or equivalent.
the input gear (shaft).
6. Position the detent shift lever into the b. With the left hand bearing races
interlock. 10. Through the reverse shift fork, install the installed in the case, place the input shaft,
7. Through the interlock bracket and the shifter shaft until it pilots into the inhibitor spring output shaft and differential assemblies into
detent shift lever, install the shifter shaft; do spacer. Remove the dummy shaft. With the shaft their installed positions. Position the right hand
not extend it any further at this time. in the N position, install the bolt and lock bearing races onto their respective bearings.
c. Using the shim selector set or
equivalent, position a gauge on the input
bearing, output bearing and differential
bearing; sure the bearing races fit smoothly
into the bores of the gauge tools.
d. On top of the output shaft gauge, install
the oil shield retainer.
e. Carefully assemble the clutch cover over
the gauges and onto the case, using the spacers
provided evenly around the perimeter. Retain the
assembly with the bolts provided.
f. Alternately and gradually, tighten the
cover-to-case bolts to 10 ft. lbs. (13 Nm); this
will compress the gauge sleeves.
g. Rotate each gauge to seat the bearings.
Rotate the differential case through 3 revolutions
in each direction.
h. With the gauges compressed, the gap
between the outer sleeve and the base pad is
larger than the correct preload shim at each
location. Carefully compare the gap to the
available shims. Determine the largest shim that
7-24 DRIVE TRAIN
17. Move the shift shaft through the gear
ranges to test for freedom of movement of the
internal parts.

Muncie 5-Speed
Overhaul

BEFORE DISASSEMBLY

Cleanliness is an important factor in the

overhaul of the transaxle. Before attempting any
disassembly operation, the exterior of the
transaxle should be thoroughly cleaned to
prevent the possibility of dirt entering the
transaxle internal mechanism. During inspection
and reassembly, all parts should be thoroughly
cleaned with cleaning fluid and then air dried.
Wiping cloths or rags should not be used to dry
parts. All oil passages should be blown out and
checked to make sure that they are not
obstructed. Small passages should be checked
with tag wire. All parts should be inspected to
determine which parts are to be replaced.

TRANSAXLE DISASSEMBLY

External Transaxle Mounted

Linkage
t SEE FIG. 42
1. Remove the nut using a 21 mm socket and
driver.
Do not allow the lever to move
during removal of the nut. Use a * 1 2 3 4
in. drive ratchet to hold the external
shift lever by the slot.
FIG.39 Measuring for shim gap
2. Remove the washer and lever.
3. Remove the pivot pin. Depending on the
can be placed into the gap and drawn through equivalent, install the bearing cups onto the type of linkage, this pin may be removed by
without binding. Then, use the next size smaller output shaft. Using the axle shaft seal and using a hammer and punch to drive it out of the
on the output shaft and differential or bearing cup installer tool or equivalent, install the bracket (replace with part number 14091786) or
reassembly. On the input shaft, use a shim 2 bearing cup onto the differential side. removing a retaining clip and sliding the pin out
sizes smaller. If endplay occurs, use the next 14. Using anaerobic sealant (not RTV), apply of the bracket, which may be reused.
larger shim size. a thin bead onto the clutch cover. Using the 4. Remove the pivot using a 3/16 in. punch
dowel pins, install the clutch cover onto the and hammer.
i. When each of the 3 shims have been
transaxle case. Using a plastic hammer, gently 5. Remove the pin and collar. Note the
selected, remove the clutch cover, spacers and
tap the cover to insure the parts are seated. position of the slot in the collar for installation.
gauges.
15. Install the clutch cover-to-case bolts and 6. Remove the bolts.
j. Place the selected shims into their
respective clutch cover bores and add the metal torque to 16 ft. lbs. (21 Nm). 7. Remove the bracket.
shield. Using the right hand input shaft seal and 16. Torque the idler shaft lock bolt to 16 ft. 8. Remove the fluid level indicator and
bearing cup installer tool or equivalent, install the lbs. (21 Nm). washer. A wrench may be needed to loosen the
bearing cups on the input shaft. Using the fluid level indicator.
transaxle case bearing cup installer tool or
 DRIVE TRAIN 7-25

1. Input cluster shaft and

gear assembly
2. Snapring
3. 5th input gear
4. 4th input gear
5. Cage bearing
6. Needle race .
7. 4th blocker ring
8. 3rd/4th synchronizer
assembly
9. 3rd/4th synchronizer
sleeve
10. 3rd/4th synchronizer
key (3)
11. 3rd/4th synchronizer
ball (3)
12. 3rd/4th synchronizer
spring (3)
13. 3rd/4th synchronizer
hub clutch
14. 3rd blocker ring
15. 3rd input gear
16. Cage bearing (2)
17. Input shaft
18. Bolt
19. Reverse shift rail guide
20. Clutch and differential
housing
21. Input shaft bearing/
sleeve assembly
22. Clutch release bearing
assembly
23. Driveshaft oil seal
24. Output cluster shaft
and gear assembly
25. Reverse output/5th
synchronizer assembly
gear
26. Reverse gear
27. 5th synchronizer key
(3)
28. 5th synchronizer ball
(3)
29. 5th synchronizer
spring (3)
30. 5th synchronizer 47. 1st/2nd synchronizer
sleeve hub
31. 5th gear blocker ring 48. 1st gear blocker ring
32. 5th speed output 49. 1st output gear 66. Differential side gear
bearing 50. 1st output bearing 67. Differential pinion gear
33. 5th speed output 51. Thrust bearing 68. Pinion gear shaft bolt
bearing 52. Thrust washer 69. Lock washer
34. Thrust washer 53. Output shaft 70. Differential ring gear 83. Plug
positioner ball 54. Output shaft support 71. Speedometer output 84. 98. Reverse rail bushing
35. Thrust washer bearing gear (mechanical) 85. Transaxle case 99. Shift rail bushing (3)
36. Snapring 55. Output bearing 72. Speedometer output 86. Output gear bearing 100. Fluid level indicator
37. 3rd/4th cluster gear 56. Output bearing race gear (electronic) 87. Output gear selective washer
38. 2nd output gear 57. Gear and differentia) 73. Differential selective shim 101. Fluid level indicator
39. 2nd output bearing assembly shim 88. Output gear bearing 102. Reverse idler shaft
40. 2nd output bearing 58. Differential assembly 74. Differential assembly retainer 103. Reverse idler gear
race bearing bearing 89. Oil slinger washer 104. Reverse shift idler gear
41. 2nd gear blocker ring 59. Differential bearing 75. Differential bearing 90. Transaxle case end rail
42. 1st/2nd gear race 76. Differential bearing plate 105. Reverse idler gear
synchronizer assembly 60. Differential bearing race 91. Bolt (9) assembly bracket
43. 1st/2nd synchronizer 61. Differential assembly 77. Differential ring bolt 92. Input gear bearing 106. Reverse idler gear
sleeve case (10) retainer bracket ball
44. 1st/2nd synchronizer 62. Differential case 78. Pin (2) 93. Input gear bearing 107. Reverse idler gear
key (3) 63. Differential cross pin 79. Oil drain plug 94. Reverse idler bolt bracket spring
45. 1st/2nd synchronizer 64. Pinion gear thrust 80. Washer 95. Detent lever bushing 108. Reverse idler gear
ball (3) washer 81. Transaxle case bolt 96. Sliding sleeve bushing detent bracket sleeve
46. 1st/2nd synchronizer 65. Side gear thrust (15) 97. Shift shaft needle 109. Reverse idler gear
washer 82. Washer bearing bracket

FIG.40 Transaxle exploded view - 5 Speed

7-26 DRIVE TRAIN

55
52

6^ ft
44

18

52
\',(5x ©
58

.53
&

94

93

38,

68
24

77
20 Vv
88
87 \ <£y.-.

i’." -
85

FIG.41 Transaxle shifter view - 5 Speed

 DRIVE TRAIN 7-27
1. Selector pin retainer 26. Detent assembly lever 50. Detent holder 71. 1st/2nd shift assembly
2. Selector lever retainer 27. Detent pin retainer 51. Detent spring (4) rail
3. Selector lever pilot pin 28. Detent lever 52. Detent ball (4) 72. 1 st/2nd select lever
4. Bolt (2) 29. Detent lever pin 53. Speedometer signal 73. Lever retainer pin
5. Selector lever 30. Detent lever spacer assembly 74. Fork retainer pin
6. Shift shaft collar 31. Detent lever roller 54. Spring pin 75. 1 st/2nd shift fork
7. Spring pin 32. Detent pin retainer 55. Detent holder cover 76. 1st/2nd shift shaft
8. Shift lever 33. Detent roller (4) 56. Bolt (2) 77. Lock pin
9. Washer 34. Reverse lever 57. Shift rail bushings (3) 78. 5th shift assembly rail
10. Nut 35. Detent lever rollers pin 58. Inner clutch fork 79. 5th shift fork
11. Selector lever retainer (2) bushing 80. Fork retainer pin
12. Selector lever pivot pin 36. Shift shaft 59. Output bearing race 81. 5th shift lever
13. Bolt (2) 37. 3rd/4th bias spring retainer 82. Lever retainer pin
14. Selector lever 38. Shift lever 60. Bolt (2) 83. 5th shift shaft
15. Shift shaft collar 39. Roll pin 61. Reverse shift assembly 84. Chip collector magnet
16. Shift lever 40. Bolt (3) rail 85. Shift rail plug (3)
17. Washer 41. Flat washer (3) 62. 5th/reverse shift gate 86. Bolt
18. Nut 42. Spacer (3) 63. Gear disengage roller 87. Sliding sleeve spring
19. Spring pin 43. Shift interlock plate 64. Reverse shift shaft 88. Sliding sleeve
20. Snapring 44. Outer clutch fork 65. 3rd/4th shift assembly 89. Shift shaft seal
21. Shift shaft cover bushing rail 90. Plug
22. Bolt 46. Clutch fork seal 66. 3rd/4th shift shift fork 91. Snapring
23. 5th detent outer spring 46. Clutch fork shaft 67. Fork retainer pin 92. Stud
seat 47. Breather assembly 68. 3rd/4th select lever 93. Speedometer signal
24. Spring 48. Reverse shift rail 69. Lever retainer pin assembly retainer
25. 5th detent inner spring bushing 70. 3rd/4th shift shaft 94. Bolt
seat 49. Interlock pin (2)

FIG.41 Transaxle shifter view - 5 Speed

9. Remove the electronic speedometer signal

LEVER^ ®-NUT
V-v 61 FT. LBS. (83 Nm) assembly, retainer and bolt using a 10mm
COLLAR
’Wjf WASHER socket and driver.
PIVOT
"^PIN Shift Rail Detent/Clutch and
PIVOT PIN
Differential Housing
+ SEE FIG. 43
BOLT (TWO)
1. Remove the bearing.
^ 17 FT. LBS. (23Nm)
2. Remove the detent holder cover. Puncture
.// BOLT
the cover in the middle and pry off. Discard this
W FLUID LEVER
INDICATOR r
84 INCH LBS. (9Nm)
SPEEDO SIGNAL
ASSEMBLY
part and replace it with part number 14082039.
3. Remove the bolts and interlock plate (early
transaxles). If the detent holder is not 18mm
SPEEDO SIGNAL thick, interlock plate kit must be used.
ASSEMBLY RETAINER
4. Remove the holder, detent, springs and
interlock pins.
5. Remove the balls and detent.
6. Remove the bushing by prying loose (2
small pry bars in the slots). Two alien wrenches
work well to pry this bushing.

Shift Shaft Detent/Transaxle

FIG.42 External transaxle linkage Housing
* SEE FIG. 44
1. Remove the snapring.
2. Remove the cover using a soft faced
hammer. v
3. Remove screw and outer spring seat using
a 5mm bit and driver.
4. Remove the 5th/reverse bias spring and
inner spring seat.
7-28 DRIVE TRAIN

FILL BREATHER HOLD

_ WITH PETROLEUM JELLY
PRIOR TO ASSEMBLY
„ BUSHING REVERSE
SHIFT RAIL
Xi / HOLDER
XX DETENT COVER FOR
"J DETENT HOLDER

BEARING BOLTS (TWO) 84 INCH LBS.

CLUTCH DISENGAGE \X (9Nm)
X SPRING DETENT
PIN INTERLOCK (FOUR)
(TWO)
BALL DETENT
(FOUR)

FIG.43 Shift control components

SPRING, 5TH/REV BIAS
SPRING SEAT.
CASE CLUTCH OUTER
AND DIFFERENTIAL
SCREW,
9.0 N m (84 IN. LBS.)
COVER

SNAP RING

FIG.44 Shift shaft detent components

Transaxle Case and Clutch Housing

t SEE FIG. 45
DIFFERENTIAL ASSEMBLY
— BEARING OUTPUT 1. Remove the bolts using a 13mm socket
MAGNET <Cuy and driver.
2. Remove the clutch housing using a soft
faced hammer. Remove the Loctite®518
anaerobic sealer with either a liquid gasket
remover or J—28410 or equivalent, scraper.
3. Remove the differential gear assembly.
Support the transaxle case on a workbench top,
being careful to support it properly.
BOLT 4. Remove the magnet.
15 FT. LBS. (21 5. Remove the bearing. Note the position of
the bearing cage for installation.
FIG.45 Clutch and transaxle housing components
Shift Shaft Components
t SEE FIGS. 46 and 47
1. Remove the pin using a size 3/16 in. (5mm)
punch and hammer.
2. Remove the shift shaft assembly. This
assembly consists of shaft, rollers and pins, IsV
2nd bias spring, shift and reverse levers. Take
care not to lose the detent rollers.

Gear Cluster Support Components

t SEE FIGS. 48 and 49
Engage the gear cluster In 4th
and reverse by pushing down on the
3rd/4th gear rail and reverse gear
rail.
 DRIVE TRAIN 7-29
1. Remove the bolts using a 13mm socket
and driver.
2. Remove the cover. Tap gently with a soft
faced hammer.
3. Remove the selective shim.
4. Remove the oil shield.
5. Remove the retainer, output gear cluster
using tool J-36031 or equivalent.
6. Remove the retainer, input gear cluster
using tool J-36031 or equivalent. These
retainers must not be reused.
7. Return the transaxle to N.

Gear Clusters
| SEE FIG. 50
1. Position tool J—36182-1 and J—36182-2
or equivalent, in the hydraulic press.
2. Position the transaxle case/gear cluster
assembly on tool J—36182-1 and -2 or
equivalent. Align the shift rail and shaft pilots to
the fixture.
3. Position tool J—36185 or equivalent, on the
shaft support bearings and pilots. Using a
hydraulic press, separate the shaft and gear
clusters from the transaxle case.
4. After this operation, the input and output
shaft bearings should be discarded. Remove the
gear clusters from the pallets, as an entire
assembly.
7-30 DRIVE TRAIN
 DRIVE TRAIN 7-31
1. Input cluster shaft 27. 5th synchronizer key 53. Output shaft 82. Washer
and gear assembly 28. 5th synchronizer ball 54. Output shaft support 83. Plug
2. Snapring 29. 5th synchronizer bearing 84. Blank
3. Fifth input gear spring 55. Output bearing 85. Transaxle case
4. Fourth input gear 30. 5th synchronizer 56. Output bearing race 86. Output gear bearing
5. Bearing cage sleeve 57. Gear and differential 87. Output gear selective
6. Needle race 31. 5th gear blocker ring assembly shim
7. Blocker 4th ring 32. 5th output gear 58. Differential assembly 88. Output gear bearing
8. Synchronizer 33. 5th output gear bearing retainer
assembly 3rd/4th bearing 59. Bearing race 89. Oil slinger washer
9. Synchronizer- sleeve 34. Thrust washer 60. Differential bearing 90. End plate
3rd/4th positioner ball 61. Differential case 91. M8 Bolt
10. Synchronizer key 35. Thrust washer assembly 92. Input gear bearing
3rd/4th 36. Snapring 62. Differential case retainer
11. Synchronizer ball 37. 3rd/4th cluster gear 63. Differential cross pin 93. Input gear bearing
3rd/4th 38. 2nd output gear 64. Thrust pinion gear 94. M8 bolt
12. Synchronizer spring 39. 2nd output gear washer 95. Detent lever bushing
3rd/4th bearing 65. Thrust side gear 96. Slide sleeve bushing
13. Synchronizer hub 40. 2nd output gear washer 97. Shift shaft bearings
3rd/4th bearing race 66. Differential side gear needle
14. Blocker ring 3rd 41. 2nd gear blocker 67. Differential pinion 98. Reverse rail bushing
15. Thrid input gear ring gear 99. Shift rail bushings
16. Cage bearing 42. 1 st/2nd synchronizer 68. Pinion gear shaft bolt 100. Fluid indicator
17. Input shaft assembly 69. Lockwasher washer
18. M6 bolt 43. 1st/2nd synchronizer 70. Ring gear 101. Fluid indicator
19. Reverse shaft guide sleeve 71. Speedo output 102. Reverse idler shaft
shift rail 447 1st/2nd synchronizer mech. 103. Reverse idler gear
20. Clutch and key 72. Speedo output elec. 104. Reverse shift idler
differential housing 45. 1st/2nd synchronizer 73. Differential selective gear rail
21. Input shaft bearing/ ball shim 105. Reverse idler bracket
sleeve assembly 46. 1st/2nd synchronizer 74. Differential bearing assembly
22. Clutch release spring assembly 106. Reverse idler bracket
bearing 47. 1st/2nd synchronizer 75. Differential bearing ball
23. Oil drive axle seal hub 76. Differential bearing 107. Reverse idler bracket
24. Output cluster shaft 48. 1st gear blocker ring race spring
and seal assembly 49. 1st output gear 108. Reverse idler bracket
77. Ring bolts (10)
25. Reverse output/5th 50. 1st output gear detent sleeve
78. Pins
synchronizer bearing 79. Oil drain plug 109. Reverse idler gear
assembly 51. Bearing thrust 80. Washer bracket
26. Reverse gear 52. Thrust washer 81. M8 bolts

FIG.50a Transaxle explode view - 5 speed

A. Gear cluster and shift

rail assembly
1. Reverse rail
2. Shift gate
3. Roller
4. 3rd/4th rail
5. 1st/2nd rail
6. Interlock pin
7. 5th rail

FIG.51 Shift rail assembly

7-32 DRIVE TRAIN
Gear Clusters and Shift Rails PRESS
t SEE FIG. 51
This should be done on a
workbench after taking the gear
clusters off the pallet.
1. Remove the 1/2 shift rail assembly and
lock pin.
2. Remove the 3/4 rail assembly.
3. Remove the 5th rail assembly.
4. Remove the reverse rail assembly,
consisting of the shift gate and disengage roller.
Be careful not to lose both the
lock pin and the gear disengage
roller, as they are small parts.

UNIT DISASSEMBLY AND

ASSEMBLY

t SEE FIGS. 52 to 74
The following components will
1. Snapring
require heating prior to Installation 2. 5th gear
during assembly procedures. A 3. 4th gear
suggested heating oven Is a toaster 4. 4th bearing
oven (used as a kitchen 5. Race
appliance). Heat the races, gear 6. 4th blocker ring
7. 3rd/4th synchronizer
assembly and speedometer gear 8. 3rd blocker ring
(electronic) for 7-10 minutes at 9. 3rd gear
250°F (120°C). Heat the 10. 3rd bearing (2)
speedometer gear (mechanical) In 11. Input shaft
hot tap water for 5 minutes. Heat
the gear cluster for a minimum of FIG.52 Input shaft component removal
20 minutes at 250°F (120°C).

4. Inspect bearings for roughness of rotation, and a hydraulic press. Tool J—22828 presses
INPUT SHAFT DISASSEMBLY burred or pitted condition. 4th gear bearing race on very well. The small
5. Inspect bearing races for scoring, wear or outer diameter groove of the sleeve toward the
overheating. 3rd gear and small end of the hub facing 4th.
Identify blocker ring for 3rd gear 6. Inspect snaprings for nicks, distortion or 3. Install the bearing race and bearing using
and blocker ring for 4th gear. Do not wear. gloves to handle the hot race. Check the
mix. 7. Inspect synchronizers assembly for wear. temperature with Tempilstick® or thermometer.
1. Remove the snapring and discard, if 4. Install the 4th gear blocker ring.
stretched. 5. Install the 4th gear with the cone down.
2. Remove the gear, bearing, race, blocker ASSEMBLY 6. Install the 5th gear (flat side down) using
ring, synchronizer assembly and gear using tool tool J-36183, J-36184 or equivalent and a
J—36183, J—36184 or equivalent and a hydraulic hydraulic press.
1. Install the 3rd gear bearing, 3rd gear (cone
press. 7. Install the snapring.
up) and blocker ring.
3. Remove the 3rd gear bearing.
r+ When pressing the 3rd/4th
synchronizer assembly, start press OUTPUT SHAFT
INSPECTION operation, stop before tangs
engage. Lift and rotate the 3rd gear
DISASSEMBLY
into the synchronizer tangs.
1. Clean parts with solvent and air dry. Continue to press until seated. Be
2. Inspect shaft, spline wear for cracks. p* Identify the blocker ring for 5th
sure all shavings are removed.
3. Inspect gear teeth for scuffed, nicked, gear, blocker ring for 2nd gear and
2. Install the 3/4 synchronizer, using tool J- blocker ring for 1st gear. Do not
burred or broken teeth.
22912-01, J—36183, J-36184 or equivalent mix.
 DRIVE TRAIN 7-33
1—o PRESS
PRESS

RAM

7/////M

1. Snapring 7. 3rd/4th gear

2. 5th gear synchronizer assembly
3. 4th gear 8. 3rd gear blocker ring
4. 4th gear bearing 9. 3rd gear
5. 4th gear bearing race 10. 3rd gear bearing
6. 4th gear blocker ring 11. Input shaft

FIG.53 Input shaft component installation

PRESS PRESS

*
RAM

PRESS BED

WXWWWW

B &
\\\\\m\\\\\
PRESS
BED

1. Reverse/5th gear 10. 2nd gear bearing

\ r—i
synchronizer 11. 2nd gear bearing race
2. 5th gear blocker ring 12. 2nd gear blocker ring
3. 5th speed gear 13. 1st/2nd gear
4. 5th gear bearing synchronizer assembly
5. Thrust washer positioner 14. 1st gear blocker ring
ball 15. 1st speed gear
6. Thrust washer 16. 1st gear bearing
7. Snapring 17. Thrust bearing
8. 3rd/4th cluster gear 18. Thrust washer
9. 2nd speed gear 19. Output shaft

FIG.54 Output shaft component removal

7-34 DRIVE TRAIN
1. Remove the reverse/5th gear synchronizer
assembly using tool J-22912-01 or equivalent
and a hydraulic press.
2. Remove the 5th gear blocker ring.
3. Remove the 5th speed gear.
4. Remove the 5th gear bearing.
5. Remove the thrust washer.
6. Remove the thrust washer positioner ball.
7. Remove the snapring. Discard the
snapring if stretched.
8. Remove the 1st gear, bearing, caged mess

thrust bearing and thrust washer using tool J-

36183 or equivalent and a hydraulic press. The
2nd gear, bearing, race, 1/2 synchronizer, 1st
and 2nd gear blocker rings and 3/4 gear cluster 1. Reverse/5th gear
synchronizer c
will press off with the 1st gear.
2. 5th gear blocker ring
3. 5th speed gear
4. 5th gear bearing
INSPECTION 5. Thrust washer positioner .—
ball
6. Thrust washer
1. Clean parts with solvent and air dry. 7. Snapring
8. 3rd/4th cluster gear
2. Inspect shaft, spline wear for cracks. 9. 2nd speed gear
3. Inspect gear teeth for scuffed, nicked, 10. 2nd gear bearing
burred or broken teeth. 11. 2nd gear bearing race
4. Inspect bearings for roughness of rotation, 12. 2nd gear blocker ring
13. 1st/2ndgear
burred or pitted condition.
synchronizer assembly
5. Inspect bearing races for scoring, wear or 14. 1st gear blocker ring
overheating. 15. 1st speed gear
6. Inspect snaprings for nicks, distortion or 16. 1st gear bearing 18. Thrust washer
wear. 17. Thrust bearing 19. Output shaft
7. Inspect synchronizers assembly for wear. FIG.55 Output shaft component installation

ASSEMBLY

The 2nd gear bearing race

requires heating 250°F (120°C) In
oven, minimum of 7-10 minutes.
The 3/4 gear cluster requires
heating 250°F (120°C) In oven,
minimum of 20 minutes. Lubricate
all components as assembly
progresses.
1. Install thmst washer with the chamfer
down.
2. Install the thrust bearing with the needles
down.
3. Install the 1st gear bearing.
4. Install the 1st gear with the cone up.
5. Install the 1st gear blocker ring.
6. Install the 1/2 synchronizer using tool J-
36183, J—36184 or equivalent and a hydraulic
press. Use tool J-22828 or equivalent, to do
this. The small outer diameter groove on the
sleeve (and small end of the hub) toward the 1st
gear.
 DRIVE TRAIN 7-35
(■» When pressing the 1/2 ASSEMBLY INSPECTION
synchronizer assembly, start press
operation, stop before tangs
engage. Lift and rotate the 1st gear 1. Lubricate all components as assembly 1. Clean with solvent and air dry.
and 1st gear blocker ring, to progresses. 2. Inspect the case bearing race bore for
engage the blocker ring tangs. 2. Assemble spring and ball in bracket. wear, scratches or grooves.
Continue to press until seated. Be 3. Install the shaft in the bracket assembly. 3. Inspect the case bushings for scores,
sure all the shavings are removed. 4. Install the gear on the shaft with the slot on burrs, roundness or evidence of overheating.
the gear toward the threaded hole in the shaft. 4. Inspect case for cracks, threaded
7. Install the 2nd gear bearing race (be
5. Install the reverse idler gear assembly. openings for damaged threads, mounting faces
careful handling the hot bearing race), 2nd gear
6. Install sealer to the bolt threads and install for nicks, burrs or scratches.
bearing and 2nd gear (cone down).
the bolt. Torque to 16 ft. lbs. (21 Nm).
8. Install the 3rd/4th gear cluster (be careful
when handling hot cluster gear) using tool J-
36183 or equivalent and a hydraulic press. The ASSEMBLY
large outer diameter gear down. TRANSAXLE CASE
9. Install the snapring, thrust washer DISASSEMBLY 1. Install the shift shaft bearing using tool J-
positioning ball (retain with petroleum jelly) and 36189 and J-36190 or equivalent and a
slotted thrust washer. Align the inner diameter hammer.
slot with the ball. Remove the bearings and 2. Install the shift shaft seal using tool J-
10. Install the 5th gear bearing and the 5th bushings only if there Is evidence of 35823 or equivalent and a hammer.
gear with the cone up. damage or a mating part is being 3. Install the 3 shift rail bushings using tool
11. Install the 5th gear blocker ring. > ' replaced. J-36029 or equivalent, (place new bushing on
12. Install the reverse/5th gear synchronizer 1. Remove the snapring. -2 adapter and retain between the -1 and -2 tool
assembly using tool J-36183, J-36184 or 2. Remove the plug. parts) and J-36190 or equivalent and a hammer.
equivalent and hydraulic press. 3. Remove the sliding sleeve screw, sliding 4. Install the reverse rail bushing using tool
When pressing the reverse/5th sleeve spring and sliding sleeve. J—36030 and J-36190 or equivalent and a
synchronizer, start press 4. Remove the sliding sleeve bushing using hammer.
operation, stop before tangs tool J-36034 and J—36190 or equivalent and a 5. Install the differential carrier support outer
engage. Lift and rotate the 5th gear hammer. race using tool J-26938 or equivalent and a
and 5th gear blocker ring (thrust 5. Remove the detent lever. hammer.
washer must stay down), engaging 6. Remove the bushing shift detent lever 6. Install the axle seal using tool J-26938 or
tangs. Continue to press until using tool J—36039 and J—36190 or equivalent equivalent and a hammer.
seated. Be sure all shavings are and a hammer. 7. Install the plugs even with the bore surface
removed. 7. Remove the shift shaft seal using a small using suitable socket and hammer.
suitable tool. 8. Install the detent lever bushing using tool
8. Remove the bearing shift shaft using tool J—36039 or equivalent and a hammer.
REVERSE IDLER GEAR J-36027 and J—36190 or equivalent and a 9. Install the detent lever.
hammer. 10. Install the sliding sleeve bushing using
DISASSEMBLY
9. Remove the axle seal using a punch and tool J-36034 and J-36190 or equivalent and a
hammer. hammer.
1. Remove the bolt using a 13mm socket and 10. Remove the differential case support 11. Install the sliding sleeve, spring and
driver. outer race using tool J—36181 and J—8092 or screw. Use sealer on the screw and tighten to 32
2. Remove the shift rail, gear, shaft and equivalent and a hammer. ft. lbs. (44 Nm).
bracket. 11. Remove the shift rails plugs using a 12. Install the plug and snapring with the flat
3. Remove the shift rail, detent ball and punch and a hammer. side up.
spring. 12. Remove the input shaft support bearing. 13. Install the stud with the chamfer end out
Remember that these bearings are not to be and tighten to 15 ft. lbs. (21 Nm).
reused.
INSPECTION 13. Remove the output shaft support bearing
using a hammer. CLUTCH AND DIFFERENTIAL
14. Remove the 3 shift rail bushings using
tool J-36029 or equivalent, (small end of J-
HOUSING DISASSEMBLY
1. Clean parts with solvent and air dry.
2. Inspect gear teeth for scuffed, nicked, 36029-2 or equivalent adapter in bushing) and
burred or broken teeth. J-36190 or equivalent and a hammer. Make 1. Remove the bolts and retainer using a
3. Inspect bushings for roughness, burred, sure the tool is positioned to clear the case. 10mm socket and driver.
scores or overheating. 15. Remove the reverse shift rail bushing 2. Remove the output shaft race using tool J-
using tool J-36032 and J-23907 or equivalent. 36038 and J-23907 or equivalent and a
4. Inspect shaft for scoring, wear or
16. Remove the stud using a 13mm socket hammer.
overheating.
and driver. 3. Remove the bolts, washers, spacer and
plate using a 10mm socket and driver.
7-36 DRIVE TRAIN
18 21
remove

1. Driveshaft seal
2. Differential carrier
support outer race
3. Washer
4. Plug J38029-1
5. Transaxle case
6. Output shaft bearing J36190
7. Input shaft bearing
8. Sliding sleeve bushing
9. Detent lever bushing INSTALL
10. Shift shaft bearing
11. Reverse shift rail REMOVE
bushing J36190
12. Shift rails bushings (3)
13. Detent lever
J36190-
14. Shift rails plugs (3)
15. Sliding sleeve screw t
16. Sliding sleeve spring
REMOVE/INSTALL
17. Sliding sleeve
18. Shift shaft seal VIEW C
19. Plug
SPECIAL TOOL USAGE
20. Snapring
21. Stud

FIG.57 Transaxle case components

 DRIVE TRAIN 7-37

INSTALL

REMOVE

J23907

"" J23423-A

REMOVE J8092
INSTALL VIEW A
SPECIAL TOOL USAGE

J36037-

14-V'"'
REMOVE/INSTALL
19

J35824

1. Bo(t
PRESS
2. Reverse rail guide (OIL SEEPAGE HOLE INSTALLED
3. Input shaft bearing REMOVE DOWN IN CLUTCH HOUSING)
sleeve
4. Axle seal
5. Output shaft race VIEW B
6. Selective shim SPECIAL TOOL USAGE
7. Differential race
8. Drain plug
9. Drain plug washer
REMOVE
10. Bolt (3)
11. Washer (3) J23907
12. Spacer (3)
13. Interlock plate
14. Outer clutch shaft J36032
bushing INSTALL
15. Clutch shaft seal
16. Clutch shaft J36190
17. Breather assembly \ J36033
18. Shift rail bushing (3)
19. Inner clutch shaft
bushing
20. Retainer
21. Bolt (2)
J37107-1

J37107-2 INSTALL
VIEW C 217 x m-- J36720-1
SPECIAL TOOL USAGE J36720-2

FiG.58 Clutch and differential housing components

 7-38 DRIVE TRAIN
4. Remove the reverse rail guide bolt and 4. Install the inner clutch shaft bushing using 8. Install the reverse rail guide using hammer.
guide. This may be difficult to remove. Use a tool J—36033 and J-36190 or equivalent and a Short side in the bore and tighten bolt to 15 ft.
10mm socket and driver. hammer. lbs. (21 Nm).
5. Remove the axle seal using a punch and 5. Install the clutch shaft. 9. Install the output shaft race using tool J-
hammer. 6. Install the outer clutch shaft upper bushing 23423-A and J-8092 or equivalent and a
6. Remove the differential race and shim using tool J-36037 or equivalent and a hammer. hammer. Be sure to use side A of the driver.
using tool J—36181 and J—8092 or equivalent 7. Install the clutch shaft seal using a suitable 2. Align the race cutouts with the slots in the
and a hammer. socket and hammer. case.
7. Remove the clutch shaft seal using small
pry bar.
8. Remove the outer clutch shaft upper
bushing using tool J-36037 or equivalent and a
hammer.
9. Remove the clutch shaft.
10. Remove the inner clutch shaft bushing
using tool J-36032 and J-23907 or equivalent.
11. Remove the input shaft bearing sleeve
assembly using tool J-35824 or equivalent and
a hydraulic press.
12. Remove the shift rail bushings using tool BALL, 1ST/2ND -SLEEVE, 1ST/2ND
J—36029 or equivalent, (small end of-2 adapter SYNCHRONIZER (THREE) SYNCHRONIZER
f—1—> (GROOVE TOWARD 1ST)
in bushing) and hammer. KEY, 1ST/2ND
SYNCHRONIZER (THREE)
13. Remove the drain plug and washer using SPRING, 1ST/2ND
a 15mm socket and hammer. lljTSYNCHRONIZER (THREE)
14. Remove the breather assembly. Pry with
a suitable tool.

INSPECTION

1. Clean with solvent and air dry. HUB, 1ST/2ND

2. Inspect the housing bearing race bore for SYNCHRONIZER
wear, scratches or grooves.
3. Inspect the housing bushings for scores,
burrs, roundness or evidence of overheating.
4. Inspect housing for cracks, threaded
openings for damaged threads, mounting faces
for nicks, burrs or scratches.

ASSEMBLY VIEW A VIEW B

Do not install the differential

bearing race and axle seal or shim. 1ST/2ND ASSEMBLY PROCEDURES
Installation will be after differential Install
bearing selective shimming. 1 Sleeve, small O.D. groove up, onto hub.
1. Install the drain plug and new washer and side marked 1ST up.
tighten to 18 ft. lbs. (24 Nm). 2. Spring into key.
2. Install the shift rail bushings using tool J- 3. Spring and key assemblies bevel cut on keys
36029 or equivalent, (place the new bushings on toward sleeve.
-2 adapter and retain between the -1 and -2 tool
4. Position assembly as in View A.
parts) and J-36190 or equivalent and a hammer.
Bushings must not protrude into the case side of 5. Balls. Push the ball and key into the sleeve, using
the clutch housing. a screwdriver.
3. Install the input shaft bearing sleeve (oil 6. Center the hub, keys and balls. View B. Balls will "click'’
seepage hole installed down in the clutch into position.
housing) using tool J-35824 or equivalent and a
hydraulic press. FIG.591st/2nd gear synchronizer components
 DRIVE TRAIN 7-39

SLEEVE, 3RD/4TH
BALL, 3RD/4TH SYNCHRONIZER VIEW C VIEW D
SYNCHRONIZER (THREE) (GROOVE TOWARD 3RD)
KEY, 3RD/4TH 3RD/4TH ASSEMBLY PROCEDURES
SYNCHRONIZER (THREE)^L^-J SPRING, 3RD/4TH
SYNCHRONIZER (THREE) Install
1. Sleeve, small O.D. groove up, onto hub,
side marked 3RD up. Align the ball and spring pockets.
2. Spring into key.
3. Spring and key assemblies, stepped side of keys
toward sleeve.
4. Position assemblys as in View C.
HUB, CLUTCH 3RD/4TH
SYNCHRONIZER 5. Balls. Push the ball and key into the sleeve, using a small
screwdriver.
6. Center the hub, keys and balls. View D. Balls will "click"
into position.
FIG.60 3rd/4th gear synchronizer components

VIEW E VIEW F

5TH ASSEMBLY PROCEDURES

Install
1. Spring into key.
2. Spring and key assemblies, teeth on keys out into slots
on gear.
3. Sleeve, teeth up. Align the ball and spnng pockets.
4. Position assembly as in View E.
5. Balls. Push the ball and key into the sleeve, using a small
screwdriver.
6. Center the sleeve, keys and balls. View F. Balls will
"click'' into position.

FIG.61 5th gear synchronizer components

7-40 DRIVE TRAIN
ASSEMBLY

1. Install the 1 st/2nd gear synchronizer

assembly.
2. Install the 3rd/4th gear synchronizer
assembly.
3. Install the 5th gear synchronizer assembly.

DIFFERENTIAL AND RING

GEAR

1. Remove the differential carrier assembly

bolts using a 15mm socket and driver.
2. Remove the differential ring gear.
3. Remove the differential bearings using tool
J-22888 or equivalent, J—22888—35 or
equivalent and J—2241—11 or equivalent or J-
23598 or equivalent.
4. Remove the speedometer gear using a
prybar. Do not reuse; the removal will destroy
the gear.
5. Remove the differential cross pin locking
bolt and washer.
6. Remove the differential cross pin.
7. Remove the differential pinion gear and
washer, differential side gear and side gear
\ *
TV thrust washer. Identify the parts for same
J
installation.

1. Reverse shift assembly 12. 1st/2nd shift lever

rail 13. Lever retainer pin
2. 5th/reverse shift gate 14. Fork retainer pin
INSPECTION
3. Gear disengage roller 15. 1st/2nd shift fork
4. Reverse shift shaft 16. 1 st/2nd shift shaft
5. 3rd/4th shift assembly 17. Lock pin 1. Clean the parts with a solvent and air dry.
rail 18. 5th shift assembly rail 2. Inspect the gears for scuffed, nicked,
6. 3rd/4th shift shaft fork 19. 5th shift fork burred or broken teeth.
7. Fork retainer pin 20. Fork retainer pin
8. 3rd/4th select lever 5th shift lever
3. Inspect the carrier for distortion, bores out
21.
9. Lever retainer pin 22. Lever retainer pin of round or scoring.
10. 3rd/4th shift shaft 23. 5th shift shaft 4. Inspect the bearings for roughness of
11. 1st/2nd shift assembly •
rotation, burred or pitted condition.
rail
5. Inspect the thrust washers for wear,
FIG.62 Shift rail and fork assemblies scuffed, nicked or burred condition.

10. Install the retainer and bolts and tighten to assemblies and press against the inner hub.
15 ft. lbs. (21 Nm). Use Loctite® 242 on the bolt. 2. Mark the sleeve and hub for installation. ASSEMBLY
11. Install the interlock plate, spacers,
washers and bolts. Use Loctite® 242 and torque
bolts to 15 ft. lbs. (21 Nm). p+ Heat the mechanical
12. Install the breather assembly using a
INSPECTION configuration nylon speedometer
hammer. drive gear In hot tap water for 5
1. Clean the assembly with solvent and air
minutes prior to installation. Heat
dry. the electronic configuration steel
SYNCHRONIZERS 2. Inspect the synchronizer teeth for wear,
speedometer drive gear In an oven
at 250°F (120°C) for 7-10 minutes
DISASSEMBLY scuffed, nicked, burred or broken teeth.
prior to installation. Do not reuse
3. Inspect the synchronizer keys for wear or
distortion.
bolts.
1. Place the 1-2,3-4 and 5th speed 4. Inspect the synchronizer balls and springs
synchronizers in separate shop towels, wrap the for distortion, cracks or wear.
 DRIVE TRAIN 7-41
TRANSAXLE ASSEMBLY

Gear/Shift Rail Assemblies and

Support Components
1. Position the gear cluster/shift rail
assembly on tool J—36182-1 or equivalent.
Align the shift rail and shaft pilots to the fixture.
2. Install the transaxle case. Align the bearing
bores in the case with the shaft pilots.
3. Install the new output shaft bearing using
tool J-35824 or equivalent and a hydraulic
press.

6 7 (a)—5

1. Differential bearing 9. Screw

2. Differential assembly 10. Lock washer
carrier 11. Differential ring gear
3. Differential carrier 12. Speedometer gear
4. Differential cross pin (mechanical)
5. Pinion gear thrust 13. Speedometer gear
washer (electronic)
6. Side gear thrust washer 14. Differential bearing
7. Differential side gear 15. Bolt (10)
8. Differential pinion gear

FIG.63 Differential and ring gear assembly

1. Install the speedometer gear and allow to DIFFERENTIAL ASSEMBLY

cool.
SELECTIVE SHIM PRELOAD
2. Install the differential bearings using tool
J-22919 or equivalent and a hydraulic press. PROCEDURE
3. Install the differential side gear and side
gear thrust washer and differential pinion gear 1. Install tool J-26935 or equivalent, to the
and pinion gear side thrust washer. clutch housing and transaxle housing.
4. Install the differential cross pin. 2. Measure the largest shim possible on tool
5. Install the differential cross locking bolt J-26935—3; use the shim 2 sizes larger.
and washer. Torque to 84 inch lbs. (9 Nm). 3. Install the selective shim.
6. Install the differential ring gear with the 4. Install the differential bearing race using 1. Reverse rail
identification chamfer to the carrier. 2. Shift gate
tool J—26938 or equivalent and J—8092 or 3. Roller
7. Install new bolts and torque to 61 ft. lbs. equivalent and a hammer. 4. 3rd/4th rail
(83 Nm). 5. Install the driveshaft seal using tool J- 5. 1st/2nd rail
8092 or equivalent and a hammer. 6. Interlock pin
7. 5th rail

FIG.65 Gear and shift rail assembly

7-42 DRIVE TRAIN

1. Clutch and differential

housing
2. Driveshaft seal
3. Gear and differential
assembly
4. Selective shim
5. Differential bearing race
6. Transaxle case

J26935-3

J26935-1 3
(SEVEN) DIMENSION U
- DETERMINE LARGEST SHIM WITHOUT BINDING
— USE SHIM TWO SIZES LARGER
SHIM DIM U
PART NO. mm (IN.) COLOR STRIPES
14082132 0.30(0.012) ORANGE 1
14082133 0.35 (0.014) ORANGE 2
14082134 0.40 (0.016) ORANGE 3
14082135 0.45 (0.018) ORANGE 4
14082136 0.50(0.020) YELLOW 1
14082137 0.55(0.022) YELLOW 2
14082138 0.60 (0.024) YELLOW 3
14082139 0.65(0.026) YELLOW 4
14082140 0.70 (0.028) WHITE 1
14082141 0.75(0.030) WHITE 2
14082142 0.80 (0.031) WHITE 3
14082143 0.85(0.033) WHITE 4
14082144 0.90 (0.035) GREEN 1
BOLT, M8 X 1.25-6G/ 14082145 0.95 (0.037) GREEN 2
LENGTH - 160 mm (SEVEN) 14082146 1.00(0.039) GREEN 3
13 N m (10 lb ft) 14082147 1.05 (0.041) GREEN 4
14082148 1.10(0.043) BLUE 1
14082149 1.15(0.045) BLUE 2
14082150 1.20 (0.047) BLUE 3
14082151 1.25(0.049) BLUE 4
14082152 1.30(0.051) RED 1

1 3 N m (10 lb ft) (SEVEN)

FIG.64 Selective shim preload procedure for differential assembly

 DRIVE TRAIN 7-43
PftESS

I —RAM

RETAINER, INPUT
(CLOCKWISE)
70 Nm (50 FT. LBS.)

USE J-36031
OR EQUIVALENT RETAINER, OUTPUT
(COUNTERCLOCKWISE)
70 N*m (50 FT. LBS.)
FIG.66 Gear cluster and shift rail assembly installation

FIG.67 Engaging transaxle in the gear shaft

support component installation

4. Install the new input shaft bearing using

tool J—35824 or equivalent and a hydraulic
press. Push the rails to engage and hold the
transaxle in 4th and reverse gear. The bearings
must be seated.
5. Install the new input and output retainers
using tool J-36031 or equivalent and torque to
DIMENSION A
50 ft. lbs. (70 Nm). Return the transaxle to N.
• SELECTED SHIM CAN BE 0.03 mm (0.001 IN.)
ABOVE OR 0.12 mm (0.004 IN.) BELOW Shift Shaft
THE END PLATE MOUNTING SURFACE.
1. Assemble the pins and rollers on the shift
DIM. A
shaft. Retain with petroleum jelly.
PART NO. mm (IN.) 2. Install the shift shaft assembly. Tap in with
4.54(0.179)
a light hammer and align the hole in the shaft
14092067
14092068 4.64 (0.183) with the hole in the shift lever.
14092069 4.74 (0.187) 3. Install the lever retainer pin using a 3/16 in.
14092070 4.84 (0.191) (5mm) punch and a hammer. Install pin till it is
14092071 4.94 (0.194)
even with the surface of the shift lever.
14092072 5.04 (0.198)
14092073 5.14(0.202)
Clutch and Differential Housing
1. Apply sealant, part number 1052942 or
FIG.68 Output shaft support bearing selective washer procedure equivalent, to the outside of the bolt hole pattern
of the gear case flange.
7-44 DRIVE TRAIN

5. Assemble the interlock pins and springs

into the bores in the detent holder.
6. Install the detent holder and spring
assembly. Position the detent balls over the
2. Install the differential. SHIFT RAIL DETENT/CLUTCH AND springs using a small suitable tool. After all the
3. Install the output bearing noting the DIFFERENTIAL HOUSING detent balls are positioned over the springs, pry
position of the cage. The small inner diameter of 1. Position the shift rails to expose the the reverse shift rail up to allow its detent ball to
the bearing cage is toward the clutch housing. interlock notches in the N position. enter the spring pocket.
4. Install the magnet. 2. Position the reverse shift rail to allow the 7. Position the detent holder using a pry to
5. Install the clutch housing. detent ball to sit in the notch and on the reverse align the bolt holes with the threads.
6. Install the bolts and torque to 15 ft. lbs. (21 bushing. 8. Install the bolts and torque to 84 inch lbs.
Nm). 3. Install the reverse bushing using a suitable (9 Nm).
socket. 9. Install the protective cover by tapping with
OUTPUT SHAFT SUPPORT BEARING
4. Install the detent balls. Place them in the a hammer until seated in the bore.
SELECTIVE SHIM PROCEDURE
notched areas of the shift rails. Retain the ball 10. Install the bearing. Apply high
Be sure that the output bearing is positions with petroleum jelly. temperature grease to the inside of the bore.
seated in the bore by tapping the
bearing into the case. Be sure that
the bearing retainer Is properly
torqued. Selected shim can be FILL BREATHER HOLD
O.OOI in. (0.03mm) above, or 0.004 WITH PETROLEUM JELLY
in. (0.12mm) below the end plate PRIOR TO ASSEMBLY
BUSHING
mounting surface.
REVERSE
1. Using tool J—26900—19 metric dial depth SHIFT RAIL
gauge or equivalent, measure the distance HOLDER
DETENT COVER FOR
between the end plate mounting surface and the DETENT HOLDER
outer race of the output shaft bearing.
2. Select the proper shim.
TRANS AXLE CASE END PLATE
1. Apply sealant, part number 1052942 or
///'
0 L
>ff
BOLTS (TWO)
BEARING ^^84 INCH LBS. (9Nm)
equivalent, to the outside of the end plate bolt CLUTCH DISENGAGE
hole pattern of the case. SPRING DETENT
PIN INTERLOCK
2. Install the selective shim. , (FOUR)
3. Install the oil shield. (™°) BALL DETENT
(FOUR)
4. Install the end cover plate.
5. Install the bolts and torque to 15 ft. lbs. (21 FIG.71 Shift rail detent components
Nm).
 DRIVE TRAIN 7-45
INTERLOCK PLATE SHIFT SHAFT DETENT/TRANSAXLE
(EARLY MODELS) HOUSING
1-2 SHIFT RAIL t SEE FIG. 44
1. Install the inner spring seat.
5TH GEAR
1-2 SHIFT RAIL 2. Install the 5th/reverse bias spring.
SHIFT RAIL 5TH GEAR SHIFT RAIL 3. Install the outer spring seat.
4. Install the spring screw and torque to 84
inch lbs. (9 Nm). Use a small amount of thread
sealant, part number 11052624 or equivalent, to
3-4 SHIFT RAIL '
the screw.
REVERSE SHIFT RAIL r DETENT HOLDER 5. Install the protective cover using a
1 ASSEMBLY hammer. Position to below the snapring groove.
VIEW A INCORRECT „ ou|lrT oa
6. Install the snapring.
SHIFT RAIL POSITIONS 3'4 SHIFT RAIt
REVERSE SHIFT RAIL EXTERNAL TRANSAXLE MOUNTED
LINKAGE
INTERLOCK PLATE
t SEE FIG. 42
DETENT HOLDER'*'' 1. Install the bracket.
VIEW B
ASSEMBLY
CORRECT SHIFT 2. Install the bolts and torque to 17 ft. lbs. (23
RAIL POSITIONS Nm).
3. Install the collar and pin using a punch and
NOTICE: 1-2 SHIFT RAIL MUST BE POSITIONED UP (VIEW B)
(VIEW A) WILL LOCK-UP SHIFTER
a hammer.
4. Install the pivot.
5. Install a new pin.
FIG.72 Shift rail detent position check 6. Install the lever.

SPRING^AND PINS

RETAIN ALL DETENT BALL'

WITH PETROLEUM JELLY*
(VIEW A) REVERSE SHIFT RAIL NOTCH
j POSITIONED ALLOWING DETENT BALL
I TO SET ON BUSHING (VIEW A)

VIEW B

PRY UP REVERSE RAIL A

TO ALLOW ITS DETENT BALL'
POSITION BALLS IN SPRING
TO ENTER THE SPRING POCKET
POCKETS (VIEW B)
(VIEW B)

FIG.73 Detent holder installation

7-46 DRIVE TRAIN
On some vehicles, the hub flange
has a notch In It which can be used
to prevent the hub and the shaft
from turning, when one of the hub
bearing retainer bolts is removed,
by placing a longer bolt put In Its
place through the notch
13. Tighten the hub nut to 70 ft. lbs. (95 Nm)
to completely seat the shaft.
14. Install the brake caliper. Tighten the
caliper mounting bolts to 30 ft. lbs. (41 Nm).
15. Load the hub assembly by lowering it
onto a jackstand. Align the camber cam bolt
marks made during removal, install the bolt and
tighten to 140 ft. lbs. (190 Nm). Tighten the
upper nut to the same value.
16. Install the halfshaft all the way into the
transaxle using a suitable tool inserted into the
groove provided on the inner retainer. Tap the
tool until the shaft seats in the transaxle. Remove
the boot seal protector.
17. Connect the brake hose clip the the strut.
Install the tire and wheel, lower the vehicle and
tighten the hub nut to 192 ft. lbs. (261 Nm).

REAR AXLE - 6000 STEAWD

1. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
2. Remove the tire and wheel assembly.
7. Install the washer and nut. Torque to 61 ft. 4. Disconnect the brake hose clip from the
3. Disconnect the parking brake cable end
lbs. (83 Nm). Do not allow the lever to move Mcpherson strut but do not disconnect the hose
from the bracket.
during installation of the nut. from the caliper. Remove the brake caliper from
4. Insert a suitable tool through the caliper
8. Install the fluid level indicator and a new the spindle and support the caliper with a length
into the rotor to prevent the rotor from turning.
washer. of wire. Do not allow the caliper to hang by the
5. Remove the shaft nut and washer using
9. Install the electronic speedometer sensor brake hose unsupported.
special tool J—34826. Discard the shaft nut.
assembly, retainer and bolt. Torque to 84 inch 5. Mark the camber alignment cam bolt for
6. Remove the anti-lock brake sensor bolt
lbs. (9 Nm). reassembly. Remove the cam bolt and the upper
and move the sensor aside.
attaching bolt from the strut and spindle.
7. Remove the 2 brake caliper bolts and
6. Pull the steering knuckle assembly from
remove the caliper. Support the caliper using a
Halfshafts the strut bracket.
length of wire.
7. Remove the halfshaft from the transaxle.
8. Using spindle remover tool J—28733 or Do not allow the caliper to hang
equivalent, remove the halfshaft from the hub by the brake hose unsupported.
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION and bearing assembly. Do not allow the halfshaft 8. Remove the rotor from the hub and bearing
to hang unsupported. If necessary, support using assembly.
a length of wire in order to prevent component 9. Install leaf spring compression tool J-
damage. 33432 or equivalent.
** WARNING To install: 10. Remove the 3 bolts mounting the hub and
9. If a new halfshaft is to be installed, a new bearing to the knuckle.
Use care when removing the drive knuckle seal should be installed first along with 11. Remove the hub and bearing assembly
axle. Tri-pots can be damaged If the a boot seal protector when necessary. from the knuckle using special tool J-28733—A
drive axle is over extended. 10. Loosely install the halfshaft into the or equivalent.
transaxle and steering knuckle. 12. Remove the bolts and nut plate attaching
11. Loosely attach the steering knuckle to the the lower strut mount to the knuckle. Scribe the
EXCEPT REAR AXLE - 6000 STEAWD suspension strut. position of the upper bolt prior removing.
1. Remove the hub nut and discard. A new 12. The halfshaft is an interference fit in the 13. Install a suitable CV-boot protector to
hub nut must be used for reassembly. steering knuckle. Press the axle into place, then prevent damage to the boot.
2. Raise and safely support the vehicle. install the hub nut. When the shaft begins to turn 14. Swing the knuckle downward and away
Remove the wheel and tire assembly. with the hub, insert a drift through the caliper into from the driveshaft.
3. Install an halfshaft boot seal protector onto one of the cooling slots in the rotor to keep it 15. Remove the drive axle from the
the seal. from turning. differential using a suitable slide hammer.
 DRIVE TRAIN 7-47

To install:
16. Install the drive axle to the differential.
Ensure positive engagement by pulling outward
on the inner axle end. Grasp the housing only. Do
not grasp and pull on the axle shaft.
17. Swing the knuckle up to the lower strut
mount.
18. Position the nut plate and install the lower
stmt mount bolts to the knuckle. Align the top
bolt with scribe marks before tightening the
bolts. Tighten the bolts to 148 ft. lbs. (200 Nm).
19. Remove the CV boot protector.
20. Install the hub and bearing assembly to
the knuckle and axle spline.
21. Install the hub and bearing attaching
bolts. Tighten to 61 ft. lbs. (84 Nm).
22. Remove the leaf spring compression
tool.
23. Install the rotor to hub and bearing
assembly.
24. Install the brake caliper to the rotor and
install the retaining bolts. Tighten the bolts to 38
ft. lbs. (51 Nm).
r-H 7. Shaft nut
25. Install the anti-lock brake sensor to the 1. Outer joint 12 185 ft. lbs. (260 Nm)
knuckle and install the retaining bolt Using a non- 2. Knuckle 8. 125 ft. lbs. (170 Nm)
ferrous feeler gauge, adjust the sensor gap to 3. Hub and bearing 9. Differential
assembly 10. Inner joint
0.028 in. (0.7mm). Tighten the adjustment
4. Washer 11. Slide hammer
screw to 19 inch lbs. (2.2 Nm). 5. 61 ft. lbs. (84 Nm) 12. Adapter
26. Connect the parking brake cabloend into 6. Washer 13. Adapter
the bracket.
FIG.76 Rear drive axle removal - 6000 STE AWD
7-48 DRIVE TRAIN
27. Install the shaft washer and new torque 6. Remove the joint assembly retaining ring. 3. Use a pair of snapring pliers to spread the
prevailing nut. Hold the rotor with a suitable to Remove the joint assembly. retaining ring apart. Pull the axle shaft from the
prevent the axle from turning while tightening. 7. Remove the race retaining ring and remove joint.
Tighten to 185 ft. lbs. (260 Nm). the seal retainer. 4. Using a brass drift and a hammer, lightly
28. Install the tire and wheel assembly. 8. Remove the inner seal retaining clamp. tap on the inner race cage until it has tilted
29. Check the rear wheel camber. Adjust as Remove the inner joint seal. sufficiently to remove one of the balls. Remove
necessary. 9. Flush the grease from the joint and repack the other balls in the same manner.
If the lower strut to knuckle bolts with half of the grease provided. Put the 5. Pivot the cage 90 degrees and, with the
are properly aligned with the scribe remainder of the grease in the seal. cage ball windows aligned with the outer joint
marks, no camber adjustment To Install: windows, lift out the cage and the inner race.
should be necessary. 10. Assemble the inner seal retainer, 6. The inner race can be removed from the
outboard seal and outer seal retainer to the cage by pivoting it 90 degrees and lifting out.
30. Lower the vehicle. halfshaft. Push the joint assembly onto the shaft Clean all parts thoroughly and inspect for wear.
CV>Boot Outer Boot until the retaining ring is seated in the groove. 7. To install, put a light coat of the grease
11. Slide the outboard seal onto the joint provided in the rebuilding kit onto the ball
1. Raise and support the vehicle safely.
assembly and secure using the outer seal grooves of the inner race and outer joint.
2. Remove the front tire and wheel assembly. retainer. Using seal clamp tool J—35910 or 8. Install the balls into the inner race cage.
3. Remove the caliper bolts. Remove the equivalent, torque the outer clamp to 130 ft. lbs. 9. Install the inner race into the cage onto the
caliper and support using a length of wire.
(176 Nm) and the inner clamp to 100 ft. lbs. axle joint.
4. Remove the hub nut, washer and wheel (136 Nm). 10. Install the axle shaft into the joint.
bearing. 12. Install the halfshaft assembly. 11. Install a new seal retainer and clamp onto
5. Using a brass drift, lightly tap around the 13. Install the wheel bearing, washer and hub the joint.
seal retainer to loosen it. Remove the seal nut. Tighten the hub nut to 192 ft. lbs. (260 Nm). 12. To install the seal retainer, install the axle
retainer.
14. Install the caliper and caliper attaching shaft assembly into an arbor press. Support the
6. Remove the seal retaining clamp or ring bolts. seal retainer on blocks, and press the axle shaft
and discard. 15. Install the front tire and wheel assembly. down until the seal retainer seats on the outer
7. Using snapring pliers, remove the race 16. Lower the vehicle. joint. When assembling, apply half the grease
retaining ring from the halfshaft.
provided in the rebuilding kit to the joint; fill the
8. Pull the outer joint assembly and the
seal (boot) with the rest of the grease. Install the
outboard seal away from the halfshaft.
axle shaft.
9. Flush the grease from the joint and repack CV-JOINT OVERHAUL
with half of the grease provided. Put the Inner Joint
remainder of the grease in the seal.
1. The joint seal is removed in the same
To install: Outer Joint manner as the outer joint seal. Follow Steps 1-3
10. Assemble the inner seal retainer, 1. Remove the axle shaft. of the outer joint procedure.
outboard seal and outer seal retainer to the 2. Cut off the seal retaining clamp. Using a 2. To disassemble the inner joint, remove the
halfshaft. Push the joint assembly onto the shaft brass drift and a hammer, lightly tap the seal bail retaining ring from the joint. Pull the cage
until the retaining ring is seated in the groove. retainer from the outside toward the inside of the and inner race from the joint. The balls will come
11. Slide the outboard seal onto the joint shaft to remove from the joint. out with the race.
assembly and secure using the outer seal
retainer. Using seal clamp tool J—35910 or
equivalent, torque the outer clamp to 130 ft. lbs.
(176 Nm) and the inner clamp to 100 ft. lbs.
(136 Nm).
12. Install the wheel bearing, washer and hub
nut. Tighten the hub nut to 192 ft. lbs. (260 Nm).
13. Install the caliper and caliper attaching
bolts.
14. Install the front tire and wheel assembly.
15. Lower the vehicle.

CV Joint Inner Boot

1. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
2. Remove the front tire and wheel assembly.
3. Remove the caliper bolts. Remove the
caliper and support using a length of wire.
4. Remove the hub nut, washer and wheel
bearing.
5. Remove the halfshaft. Place in a suitable
holding fixture being careful not place undue
pressure on the halfshaft.
 DRIVE TRAIN 7-49
_PIVOT CAGE AMO MNER RACE AT W
TO CENTER UNE OF OUTER RACE
WITH CAGE WINDOWS ALIGNED
WITH LANDS OF OUTER RACE.
LIFT OUT CAGE AND INNER RACE.

FIG.82 Inner race assembly

3. Center the inner race lobes in the cage

windows, pivot the race 90 degrees, and lift the
race from the cage.
4. Reverse steps 1,2 and 3 to assembly the
joint. The inner joint seal retainer must be
pressed onto the joint. See Step 12 of the outer
joint procedure.

Driveshaft
The procedure for replacing the driveshaft on
the Pontiac 6000 AWD is covered in detail under
Automatic Transaxle Driveshaft removal and
installation.

FIG.81 Inner CV-joint

CLUTCH

power to the transmission (the load) must be

** CAUTION Understanding the smooth and gradual; if it weren’t, drive line
components would wear out or break quickly.
The clutch driven disc contains Clutch This gradual power transfer is made possible by
asbestos, which has been
gradually releasing the clutch pedal. The clutch
determined to be a cancer causing
The purpose of the clutch is to disconnect and disc and pressure plate are the connecting link
agent. Never clean clutch surfaces
connect engine power from the transmission. A between the engine and transmission. When the
with compressed air! Avoid Inhaling
car at rest requires a lot of engine torque to get clutch pedal is released, the disc and plate
any dust from any clutch surface!
all that weight moving. An internal combustion contact each other (clutch engagement),
When cleaning clutch surfaces, use
engine does not develop a high starting torque physically joining the engine and transmission.
a commercially available brake (unlike steam engines), so it must be allowed to When the pedal is pushed in, the disc and plate
cleaning fluid. operate without any load until it builds up enough separate (the clutch is disengaged),
torque to move the car. Torque increases with disconnecting the engine from the transmission.
engine rpm. The clutch allows the engine to build The clutch assembly consists of the flywheel,
up torque by physically disconnecting the engine the clutch disc, the clutch pressure plate, the
from the transmission, relieving the engine of throwout bearing and fork, the actuating linkage
any load or resistance. The transfer of engine and the pedal. The flywheel and clutch pressure
 7-50 DRIVE TRAIN
plate (driving members) are connected to the release of the pedal and reduces linkage slack CLUTCH LINKAGE AND
engine crankshaft and rotate with it. The clutch due to wear. As the linkage wears, clutch free-
PEDAL HEIGHT/FREE-PLAY
disc is located between the flywheel and pedal travel will increase and free-travel will
pressure plate, and splined to the transmission decrease as the clutch wears. Free-travei is ADJUSTMENT
shaft. A driving member is one that is attached to actually throwout bearing lash.
the engine and transfers engine power to a The diaphragm spring type clutches used are
driven member (clutch disc) on the transmission available in two different designs: flat diaphragm 1982-86 Models
shaft. A driving member (pressure plate) rotates springs or bent spring. The bent fingers are bent All cars use a self-adjusting clutch
(drives) a driven member (clutch disc) on back to create a centrifugal boost ensuring quick mechanism which may be checked as follows:
contact and, in so doing, turns the transmission re-engagement at higher engine speeds. This As the clutch friction material wears, the cable
shaft. There is a circular diaphragm spring within design enables pressure plate load to increase must be lengthened. This is accomplished by
the pressure plate cover (transmission side), in as the clutch disc wears and makes low pedal simply pulling the clutch pedal up to its rubber
a relaxed state (when the clutch pedal is fully effort possible even with a heavy-duty clutch. bumper. This action forces the pawl against its
released), this spring is convex; that it, it is The throwout bearing used with the bent finger stop and rotates it out of mesh with the quadrant
dished outward toward the transmission. design is 1V4 in. (31.75mm) long and is shorter teeth, allowing the cable to play out until the
Pushing in the clutch pedal actuates an attached than the bearing used with the fiat finger design. quadrant spring load is balanced against the load
linkage rod. Connected to the other end of this These bearings are not interchangeable. If the applied by the release bearing. This adjustment
rod is the throwout bearing fork. The throwout longer bearing is used with the bent finger clutch, procedure is required every 5,000 miles or less.
bearing is attached to the fork. When the clutch free-pedal travel will not exist. This results in 1. With engine running and brake on, hold the
pedal is depressed, the clutch linkage pushes the clutch slippage and rapid wear. clutch pedal approximately V2 in. (13mm) from
fork and bearing forward to contact the The transmission varies the gear ratio floor mat and move shift lever between first and
diaphragm spring of the pressure plate. The between the engine and rear wheels. It can be reverse several times. If this can be done
outer edges of the spring are secured to the shifted to change engine speed as driving smoothly without clashing into reverse, the
pressure plate and are pivoted on rings so that conditions and loads change. The transmission clutch is fully releasing. If shift is not smooth,
when the center of the spring is compressed by allows disengaging and reversing power from clutch is not fully releasing and linkage should be
the throwout bearing, the outer edges bow the engine to the wheels. inspected and corrected as necessary.
outward and, by so doing, pull the pressure plate 2. Check clutch pedal bushings for sticking
in the same direction - away from the clutch or excessive wear.
disc. This action separates the disc from the
plate, disengaging the clutch and allowing the
Adjustments 3. Have an assistant sit in the driver’s seat
' and fully apply the clutch pedal to the floor.
transmission to be shifted into another gear. A On 1982-86 models the only service Observe the clutch fork lever travel at the
coil type clutch return spring attached to the adjustment necessary on the clutch is to transaxle. The end of the clutch fork lever should
clutch pedal arm permits full release of the maintain the correct pedal free play. Clutch pedal have a total travel of approximately 1.5-1.7 in.
pedal. Releasing the pedal pulls the throwout free play, or throwout bearing lash, decreases (38-43mm).
bearing away from the diaphragm spring with driven disc wear. On 1987 and newer 4. If fork lever is not correct, check the
resulting in a reversal of spring position. As models a hydraulic clutch system provides adjusting mechanism by depressing the clutch
bearing pressure is gradually released from the automatic clutch adjustment. pedal and looking for pawl to firmly engage with
spring center, the outer edges of the spring bow the teeth in the quadrant.
outward, pushing the pressure plate into closer
contact with the clutch disc. As the disc and
plate move closer together, friction between the
two increases and slippage is reduced until,
when full spring pressure is applied (by fully
releasing the pedal), The speed of the disc and
plate are the same. This stops all slipping,
creating a direct connection between the plate
and disc which results in the transfer of power
from the engine to the transmission. The clutch
disc is now rotating with the pressure plate at
engine speed and, because it is splined to the
transmission shaft, the shaft now turns at the
same engine speed. Understanding clutch
operation can be rather difficult at first; if you’re
still confused after reading this, consider the
following analogy. The action of the diaphragm
spring can be compared to that of an oil can
bottom. The bottom of an oil can is shaped very
much like the clutch diaphragm spring and
pushing in on the can bottom and then releasing
it produces a similar effect. As mentioned
earlier, the clutch pedal return spring permits full
 DRIVE TRAIN 7-51
BUSHING
QUADRANT
CABLE MUST ROUTE
UNDER BRACKET TANG. PEDAL
QUADRANT SPRING -QUADRANT STOP
QUADRANT
PEDAL

INSTALL QUADRANT
QUADRANT SPRING END IN
SPRING HOLE IN PEDAt.
VIEW [A]
PEDAL ASM
PAWL SPRING
(NARROW HOOK PAWL SPRING
END)

BRACKET PAWL
PAWL
VIEW [d] SUPPORT
VIEW[|]
CABLE ASM
QUADRANT

QUADRANT
SUPPORT
BUMPER VIEW fcl ASSEMBLE SUPPORT WITH r=-|
VIEW [B] 1—1 2 3 4 5 6 FLANGED EDGE AWAY FROM V EW LlJ
QUADRANT.
FIG.85 Clutch cable and pedal

Clutch Cable INSTALLATION

Driven Disc and
Pressure Plate
1. With the gasket in position on the two
upper studs, position a new cable with the
REMOVAL retaining flange against the bracket.
2. Attach the end of the cable to the quadrant,
being sure to route the cable underneath the REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
1. Support the clutch pedal upward against
the bumper stop to release the pawl from the pawl.
3. Attach the two upper nuts to the retainer
quadrant. Disconnect the end of the cable from 1. On 1987 and newer models disconnect the
mounting studs, and torque to specifications.
the clutch release lever at the transaxle. Be negative battery cable, remove the hush panel
4. Attach the cable to the bracket mounted to
careful to prevent the cable from snapping from inside the vehicle then disconnect the
the transaxle.
rapidly toward the rear of the car. The quadrant clutch master cylinder push rod from the clutch
5. Support the clutch pedal upward against
in the adjusting mechanism can be damaged by pedal.
the bumper stop to release the pawl from the
allowing the cable to snap back. 2. Remove the transaxle.
quadrant. Attach the outer end of the cable to the
2. Disconnect the clutch cable from the 3. Mark the pressure plate assembly and the
clutch release lever. Be sure not to yank on the
quadrant. Lift the locking pawl away from the flywheel so that they can be assembled in the
cable, since overloading the cable could damage
quadrant, then slide the cable out on the right same position. They were balanced as an
the quadrant.
side of the quadrant. assembly at the factory.
6. Check clutch operation and adjust by lifting
3. From the engine side of the cowl 4. Loosen the attaching bolts one turn at a
the clutch pedal up to allow the mechanism to
disconnect the two upper nuts holding the cable time until spring tension is relieved.
adjust the cable length. Depress the pedal slowly
retainer to the upper studs. Disconnect the cable 5. Support the pressure plate and remove the
several times to set the pawl into mesh with the
from the bracket mounted to the transaxle, and bolts. Remove the pressure plate and clutch
quadrant teeth. disc. Do not disassemble the pressure plate
remove the cable.
4. Inspect the clutch cable for frayed wires, assembly; replace it if defective.
kinks, worn ends and excessive friction. If any of 6. Inspect the flywheel, clutch disc, pressure
these conditions exist, replace the cable. plate, throwout bearing and the clutch fork and
pivot shaft assembly for wear. Replace the parts
as required. If the flywheel shows any signs of
overheating, or if it is badly grooved or scored,
it should be replaced.
7-52 DRIVE TRAIN

VIEW A

Clutch pedal assembly 8. Bolt 40 ft. lbs.

Bolt 9. Lever
Bracket 10. Bolt 37 ft. lbs.
Reservoir 11. Nut
Master cylinder 12. Nut 40 ft. lbs.
20 ft. lbs. 13. Slave cylinder
Slave cylinder bracket 14 Master cylinder push rod.
FIG.84 Clutch hydraulic system

7. Clean the pressure plate and flywheel 13. On 1987 and newer models, install the 6. Install the slave cylinder to the
mating surfaces thoroughly. Position the clutch hush panel and reconnect the negative battery transmission support bracket aligning the push
disc and pressure plate into the installed cable. rod into the pocket on the clutch fork outer lever.
position, and support with a dummy shaft or Tighten the retaining nuts evenly to prevent
clutch aligning tool. The clutch plate is damage to the slave cylinder. Torque the nuts to
assembled with the damper springs offset 40 ft. lbs.
toward the transaxle. One side of the factory Clutch Master and
Do not remove the plastic push
supplied clutch disc is stamped "Flywheel side”. Slave Cylinder rod retainer from the slave cylinder.
8. Install the pressure plate-to-flywheel bolts. The straps will break on the first
Tighten them gradually in a crisscross pattern. clutch pedal application.
9. Lubricate the outside groove and the inside r+ The clutch hydraulic system Is
recess of the release bearing with high serviced as a complete unit, It has 7. Position the clutch master cylinder to the
temperature.grease. Wipe off any excess. Install been bled of air and filled with fluid. front of the dash. Torque the nuts evenly to 20 ft.
the release bearing. lbs.
10. Install the transaxle. 8. Remove the pedal restrictor from the push
11. On 1987 and newer models connect the REMOVAL & INSTALLATION rod. Lube the push rod bushing on the clutch
clutch master cylinder push rod to the clutch pedal. Connect the push rod to the clutch pedal
pedal and install the retaining clip. and install the retaining clip.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 9. If equipped with cruise control, check the
12. On 1987 and newer models, if equipped
2. Remove the hush panel from inside the switch adjustment at the clutch pedal bracket.
with cruise control, check the switch adjustment
vehicle.
at the clutch pedal bracket. When adjusting the cruise control
3. Remove the clutch master cylinder
When adjusting the cruise control switch, do not exert an upward
retaining nuts at the front of the dash.
switch, do not exert an upward force on the clutch pedal pad of
4. Remove the slave cylinder retaining nuts at
force on the clutch pedal pad of more than 20 lbs. or damage to the
the transaxle.
more than 20 lbs. or damage to the master cylinder push rod retaining
5. Remove the hydraulic system as a unit
master cylinder push rod retaining ring may result.
from the vehicle.
ring may result. 10. Install the hush panel.
 DRIVE TRAIN 7-53
11. Press the clutch pedal down several assembly with a pair of needlenosed pliers. The with a dowel until fluid squirts from the outlet
times. This will break the plastic retaining straps switch piston assembly seals are replaceable. ports. Continue pumping until the expelled fluid
on the slave cylinder push rod. Do not remove 9. The reservoir can be removed from the is free of air bubbles.
the plastic button on the end of the push rod. master cylinder if necessary. Clamp the body in 18. Install the master cylinder and bleed the
12. Connect the negative battery cable. a vise by its mounting flange. Use a pry bar to clutch. Check the clutch system for proper
remove the reservoir. If the reservoir is removed, operation.
remove the reservoir grommets and discard
OVERHAUL them. The quick take-up valves under the
grommets are accessible after the retaining
BLEEDING THE HYDRAULIC
snaprings are removed. Use snapring pliers; no
This is a tedious, time consuming job. You other tool will work. CLUTCH SYSTEM
can save yourself a lot of trouble by buying a 10. Clean all parts in denatured alcohol and
rebuilt master cylinder from your dealer or parts allow to air dry. Do not use anything else to clean Bleeding air from the system is necessary any
supply house. The small difference in price and do not wipe dry with a rag, which will leaves time part of the system has been disconnected,
between a rebuilding kit and a rebuilt part usually bits of lint behind. Inspect all parts for corrosion or the fluid level in the reservoir has been
makes it more economical, in terms of time and or wear. Generally, it is best to replace all rubber allowed to fall so low that air has been drawn
work, to buy the rebuilt part. parts whenever the master cylinder is into the master cylinder.
1. Remove the master cylinder. disassembled and replace any metal part which
2. Remove the reservoir cover and drain the shows any sign of wear or corrosion.
fluid. 11. Lubricate all parts with fresh brake fluid ❖❖CAUTION
3. Remove the pushrod and the rubber boot before assembly.
on non-power models. Never under any circumstance use
12. Install the quick take-up valves into the
4. Unbolt the proportioned and the failure fluid that has been bled from the
master cylinder body and secure with the
warning switch from the side of the master system as it could be contaminated
snaprings. Make sure the snaprings are properly
cylinder body. Discard the O-rings found under with air or moisture.
seated in their grooves. Lubricate the new
the proportioned. Use new ones on installation.
reservoir grommets with fresh brake fluid and
There may or may not be an O-ring under the
press them into the master cylinder.
original equipment failure warning switch. If 1. Clean the cap then remove the cap and
13. Install the reservoir into the grommets by diaphragm and fill the reservoir to the top with
there is, discard it. In either case, use a new 0-
placing the reservoir on its lid and pressing the certified DOT 3 brake fluid.
ring upon assembly.
master cylinder body down onto it with q rocking 2. Fully loosen the bleed screw which is in
5. Clamp the master cylinder body in a vise,
motion.
taking care not to crush it. Depress the primary the slave cylinder body next to the inlet
piston with a wooden dowel and remove the lock 14. Lubricate the switch piston assembly. connection. Fluid will now begin to move from
ring with a pair of snapring pliers. Install new 0-rings and retainers on the piston. the master cylinder down the tube to the slave. It
6. The primary and secondary pistons can be Install the piston assembly into the master is important that for efficient gravity fill, the
removed by applying compressed air into one of cylinder and secure with the plug, using a new reservoir must be filled at all times.
the outlets at the end of the cylinder and plugging O-ring on the plug. Torque is 40-140 inch lbs. 3. At this point bubbles will be noticeable at
the other three outlets. The primary piston must (5-16 Nm.). the bleed screw outlet showing air is being
be replaced as an assembly if the seals are bad. 15. Assemble the new secondary piston expelled. When the slave is full, a steady stream
The secondary piston seals are replaceable. seals onto the piston. Lubricate the parts, then of fluid will come from the slave outlet. At this
Install these new seals with the lips facing install the spring, spring retainer and secondary point, tighten the bleed screw.
outwards. piston into the cylinder. Install the primary 4. Install the diaphragm and cap to the
7. Inspect the bore for corrosion. If any piston, depress and install the lock ring. reservoir. The fluid in the reservoir should be
corrosion is evident, the master cylinder body 16. Install new 0-rings on the proportioners level with the step.
must be replaced. Do not attempt to polish the and the failure warning switch. Install the 5. The hydraulic system should now be fully
bore with crocus cloth, sandpaper or anything proportioners and torque to 18-30 ft. lbs. (25- bled and should release the clutch. Check the
else. The body is aluminum; polishing the bore 40 Nm.). Install the failure warning switch and vehicle by starting, then push the clutch pedal to
won’t work. torque to 15-50 inch lbs. (2-6 Nm.). the floor and selecting reverse gear. There
8. To remove the failure warning switch 17. Clamp the master cylinder body upright should be no grinding of gears, if there is, the
piston assembly, remove the alien head plug into a vise by one of the mounting flanges. Fill hydraulic system still contains air. If so, bleed
from the end of the bore and withdraw the the reservoir with fresh fluid. Pump the piston the system again.
7-54 DRIVE TRAIN

AUTOMATIC TRANSAXLE

a one-way clutch. This third set is known as the THE PLANETARY GEARBOX
Understanding stator.
A pump, which is driven by the converter hub
Automatic at engine speed, keeps the torque converter full The ability of the torque converter to multiply
Transmissions of transmission fluid at all times. Fluid flows engine torque is limited. Also, the unit tends to
continuously through the unit to provide cooling. be more efficient when the turbine is rotating at
Under low speed acceleration, the torque relatively high speeds. Therefore, a planetary
The automatic transmission allows engine
converter functions as follows: gearbox is used to carry the power output of the
torque and power to be transmitted to the rear
The toms is turning faster than the turbine. It turbine to the driveshaft.
wheels within a narrow range of engine
picks up fluid at the center of the converter and, Planetary gears function very similarly to
operating speeds. The transmission will allow
through centrifugal force, slings it outward. conventional transmission gears. However, their
the engine to turn fast enough to produce plenty
Since the outer edge of the converter moves constmction is different in that three elements
of power and torque at very low speeds, while
faster than the portions at the center, the fluid make up one gear system, and, in that all three
keeping it at a sensible rpm at high vehicle
picks up speed. elements are different from one another. The
speeds. The transmission performs this job
entirely without driver assistance. The The fluid then enters the outer edge of the three elements are: an outer gear that is shaped
transmission uses a light fluid as the medium for turbine blades. It then travels back toward the like a hoop, with teeth cut into the inner surface;
the transmission of power. This fluid also works center of the converter case along the turbine a sun gear, mounted on a shaft and located at the
in the operation of various hydraulic control blades. In impinging upon the turbine blades, the very center of the outer gear; and a set of three
circuits and as a lubricant. Because the fluid loses the energy picked up in the toms. planet gears, held by pins in a ring-like planet
transmission fluid performs all of these three If the fluid were now to immediately be carrier, meshing with both the sun gear and the
functions, trouble within the unit can easily travel returned directly into the toms, both halves of the outer gear. Either the outer gear or the sun gear
from one part to another. For this reason, and converter would have to turn at approximately may be held stationary, providing more than one
because of the complexity and unusual operating the same speed at all times, and torque input and possible torque multiplication factor for each set
principles of the transmission, a very sound output would both be the same. of gears. Also, if all three gears are forced to
understanding of the basic principles of In flowing through the toms and turbine, the rotate at the same speed, the gearset forms, in
operation will simplify troubleshooting. fluid picks up two types of flow, or flow in two effect, a solid shaft.
separate directions. It flows through the turbine Most modem automatics use the planetary
blades, and it spins with the engine. The stator, gears to provide either a single reduction ratio of
whose blades are stationary when the vehicle is about 1.8:1, or two reduction gears: a low of
THE TORQUE CONVERTER being accelerated at low speeds, converts one about 2.5:1, and an intermediate of about 1.5:1.
type of flow into another. Instead of allowing the Bands and clutches are used to hold various
The torque converter replaces the fluid to flow straight back into the toms, the portions of the gearsets to the transmission case
conventional clutch. It has three functions: stator’s curved blades turn the fluid almost 90° or to the shaft on which they are mounted.
1. It allows the engine to idle with the vehicle toward the direction of rotation of the engine. Shifting is accomplished, then, by changing the
at a standstill, even with the transmission in gear. Thus the fluid does not flow as fast toward the portion of each planetary gearset which is held to
2. It allows the transmission to shift from torus, but is already spinning when the toms the transmission case or to the shaft
range to range smoothly, without requiring that picks it up. This has the effect of allowing the
the driver close the throttle during the shift. torus to turn much faster than the turbine. This
3. It multiplies engine torque to an increasing difference in speed may be compared to the THE SERVOS AND
extent as vehicle speed drops and throttle difference in speed between the smaller and
larger gears in any gear train. The result is that
ACCUMULATORS
opening is increased. This has the effect of
making the transmission more responsive and engine power output is higher, and engine torque
reduces the amount of shifting required. is multiplied. The servos are hydraulic pistons and
The torque converter is a metal case which is As the speed of the turbine increases, the fluid cylinders. They resemble the hydraulic actuators
shaped like a sphere that has been flattened on spins faster and faster in the direction of engine used on many familiar machines, such as
opposite sides. It is bolted to the rear end of the rotation. As a result, the ability of the stator to bulldozers. Hydraulic fluid enters the cylinder,
engine’s crankshaft. Generally, the entire metal redirect the fluid flow is reduced. Under cmising under pressure, and forces the piston to move to
case rotates at engine speed and serves as the conditions, the stator is eventually forced to engage the band or clutches.
engine’s flywheel. rotate on its one-way clutch in the direction of The accumulators are used to cushion the
The case contains three sets of blades. One engine rotation. Under these conditions, the engagement of the servos. The transmission
set is attached directly to the case. This set torque converter begins to behave almost like a fluid must pass through the accumulator on the
forms the toms or pump. Another set is directly solid shaft, with the toms and turbine speeds way to the servo. The accumulator housing
connected to the output shaft, and forms the being almost equal. contains a thin piston which is spmng away from
turbine. The third set is mounted on a hub which, the discharge passage of the accumulator. When
in turn, is mounted on a stationary shaft through fluid passes through the accumulator on the way
to the servo, it must move the piston against
 DRIVE TRAIN 7-55
spring pressure, and this action smooths out the and halfshaft removal, installation, and overhaul 2. Move the slider up until it stops against the
action of the servo. procedures are covered. fitting.
3. Release the adjusting tab.

THE HYDRAULIC CONTROL Pan and Filter

SYSTEM
SHIFT LINKAGE
The hydraulic pressure used to operate the REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
servos comes from the'main transmission oil 1. Place the shift lever into Neutral.
pump. This fluid is channeled to the various 2. Disconnect the shift cable from the
servos through the shift valves. There is 1. Raise and support the vehicle on transaxle lever. Place the transaxle lever in
generally a manual shift valve which is operated jackstands. Neutral, by moving the lever clockwise to the
by the transmission selector lever and an 2. Loosen the pan bolts and drain the fluid. Low (L) detent, then counterclockwise through
automatic shift valve for each automatic upshift 3. Remove the pan and the fitter. the Second (S) and Drive (D) detents to the
the transmission provides: i.e., 2-speed 4. Clean the gasket mounting surfaces. Neutral detent.
automatics have a low/high shift valve, while 3- 5. To install, use a new gasket and filter, then 3. Attach and torque the shift cable to the pin
speeds have a 1-2 valve, and a 2-3 valve. reverse the removal procedures. Refill the on the transaxle lever. Check the shift operation.
There are two pressures which effect the transaxle. Torque the pan bolts to 10 ft. lbs.
operation of these valves. One is the governor
❖❖ CAUTION
pressure which is affected by vehicle speed. The
other is the modulator pressure which is affected Adjustments Any inaccuracies In shift linkage
by intake manifold vacuum or throttle position. adjustments may result In
Governor pressure rises with an increase in The only adjustment required on the 125C premature failure of the
vehicle speed, and modulator pressure rises as transaxle is the shift linkage (cable) adjustment. transmission due to operation
the throttle is opened wider. By responding to The neutral start switch and throttle valve are self- without the controls In full detent.
these two pressures, the shift valves cause the adjusting. The transaxle has only one band, with Such operation results in reduced
upshift points to be delayed with increased no provision for periodic adjustment. Pan fluid pressure and in turn, partial
throttle opening to make the best use of the removal, fluid and filter changes are covered in engagement of the affected
engine’s power output. Section 1. clutches. Partial engagement of
Most transmissions also make use of an the clutches, with sufficient
auxiliary circuit for downshifting. This circuit pressure to permit apparently
may be actuated by the throttle linkage or the T.V. CABLE normal vehicle operation will result
vacuum line which actuates the modulator, or by in failure of the clutches and/or
a cable or solenoid, it applies pressure to a other internal parts after only a few
1. Depress and hold down the metal
special downshift surface on the shift valve or miles of operation.
adjustment tab at the engine end of the TV cable.
valves.
The transmission modulator also governs the
line pressure, used to actuate the servos. In this
way, the clutches and bands will be actuated
with a force matching the torque output of the
engine.

Identification
All models use a 125C or 440-T4 automatic
transmission. The 125C is equipped with a
torque converter clutch (TCC) which under
certain conditions mechanically couples the
engine to the transaxle for greater power transfer
efficiency and increased fuel mileage. The 440-
T4 provides an overdrive feature, for greater fuel
efficiency. A cable operated throttle vaive linkage
is used. Automatic transaxle operation is
provided through a conventional three element
torque converter, a compound planetary gear
set, and a dual sprocket and drive link assembly.
No overhaul procedures are given in this book
because of the complexity of the transaxle.
Transaxle removal and installation, adjustment,
7-56 DRIVE TRAIN
4. Pull up on the detent cable cover at the 22. Swing the partial engine cradle to the left
Neutral Safety/Back-Up transaxle until the cable is exposed. Disconnect (driver) side and wire it out of the way outboard
the cable from the rod. of the fender well.
Light Switch 5. Remove the two transaxle strut bracket 23. Remove the four torque converter and
bolts at the transaxle, if equipped. starter shield bolts. Remove the two transaxle
6. Remove all the engine-to-transaxle bolts extension bolts from the engine-to-transaxle
except the one near the starter. The one nearest bracket.
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION the firewall is installed from the engine side; you 24. Attach a transaxle jack to the case.
will need a short handled box wrench or ratchet 25. Use a felt pen to matchmark the torque
to reach it. converter and flywheel. Remove the three torque
1. Remove the shifter knob from the shifter 7. Loosen, but do not remove the engine-to- converter-to-flywheel bolts.
by removing the retaining screw at the back of transaxle bolt near the starter. 26. Remove the transaxle-to-engine bolt near
the knob. 8. Disconnect the speedometer cable at the the starter. Remove the transaxle by sliding it to
2. Remove the screws at the sides and front upper and lower coupling. On cars with cruise the left, away from the engine.
of the console. control, remove the speedometer cable at the 27. To install, place the transaxle on a jack
3. Open the console box and remove the transducer. and raise it into the vehicle. As the transaxle is
retaining screw inside the box. 9. Remove the retaining clip and washer from installed, slide the right axle shaft into the case.
4. Remove the ashtray at the rear of the the shift linkage at the transaxle. Remove the two 28. Align the matchmarks and connect the
console and remove the retaining screw behind shift linkage at the transaxle. Remove the two torque converter to the flywheel. Install the
the ashtray. shift linkage bracket bolts. transaxle-to-engine bolt near the starter.
5. Slide the console rearward slightly, then lift 10. Disconnect and plug the two fluid cooler 29. Install the engine-to-transaxle bracket
it over the shifter. lines at the transaxle. These are inch-size extension bolts. Install the torque converter and
6. Disconnect the wiring harness at the back¬ fittings; use a back-up wrench to avoid twisting starter shield bolts.
up light switch. the lines. 30. Install the partial engine cradle.
7. Remove the switch from the base of the 11. Install an engine holding chain or hoist. 31. Install the left axle shaft.
shifter. Raise the engine enough to take its weight off the 32. Install the drivers side front and rear
8. Reverse steps 1 through 7 to install the mounts. cradle to body bolts.
switch. 12. Unlock the steering column and raise the 33. Install the top bolt tr the lower front
car. transaxle shock absorber, if equipped (V6 engine
13. Remove the two nuts holding the anti¬ only).
Transaxle sway (stabilizer) bar to the left lower control arm 34. Install the three right (passenger) side
(driver’s side). front engine cradle attaching bolts.
14. Remove the four bolts attaching the 35. Install the two rear center crossmember
covering plate over the stabilizer bar to the bolts.
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION engine cradle on the left side (driver’s side). 36. Connect the front and rear transaxle
15. Loosen but do not remove the four bolts mounts at the engine cradle.
holding the stabilizer bar bracket to the right side 37. Install the stabilizer bar. Tighten the four
125C (passenger’s side) of the engine cradle. Pull the bolts holding the stabilizer bar bracket to the
By September 1,1991, Hydra* bar down on the driver’s side. right side (passenger’s side) of the engine
Matic will have changed the name 16. Disconnect the front and rear transaxle cradle.
designation of the THM 125C mounts at the engine cradle.
17. Remove the two rear center To aid in stabilizer bar
automatic transaxle. The new installation, a pry hole has been
name designation for this transaxle crossmember bolts.
18. Remove the three right (passenger) side provided In the engine cradle.
will be Hydra-Matlc 3T40.
Transaxles built between 1989 and front engine cradle attaching bolts. The nuts are 38. Install the four bolts attaching the
1990 will serve as transitional accessible under the splash shield next to the covering plate over the stabilizer bar to the
years in which a dual system, made frame rail. engine cradle on the left side (driver’s side).
up of the old designation and the 19. Remove the top bolt from the lower front 39. Install the two nuts holding the anti-sway
new designation will be In effect. transaxle shock absorber, if equipped (V6 engine (stabilizer) bar to the left lower control arm
only). (driver’s side).
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable from 20. Remove the left (driver) side front and 40. Lower the vehicle and remove the engine
the transaxle. Tape the wire to the upper radiator rear cradle-to-body bolts. support device.
hose to keep it out of the way. 21. Remove the left front wheel. Attach an 41. Connect the two fluid cooler lines at the
2. Remove the air cleaner and disconnect the axle shaft removing tool (G.M. part no. J—28468 transaxle.
detent cable. Slide the detent cable in the or the equivalent) to a slide hammer. Place the 42. Install the two shift linkage bracket bolts.
opposite direction of the cable to remove it from tool behind the axle shaft cones and pull the
the carburetor. 43. Connect the two shift linkages at the
cones out away from the transaxle. Remove the transaxle and install the retaining clips and
3. Unbolt the detent cable attaching bracket right shaft in the same manner. Set the shafts out
at the transaxle. washers.
of the way. Plug the openings in the transaxle to
prevent fluid leakage and the entry of dirt.
 DRIVE TRAIN 7-57
44. Connect the speedometer cable at the 9. Remove the left front wheel and tire 19. Disconnect the cooler pipes.
upper and lower coupling. On cars with cruise assembly. 20. Remove the converter cover and
control, connect the speedometer cable at the 10. Remove the left side ball joint from the converter-to-flywheel bolts.
transducer. steering knuckle. 21. Remove all of the remaining transaxle-to-
45. Tighten the engine-to-transaxle boit near 11. Disconnect the brake line bracket at the engine bolts except one.
the starter. stmt. 22. Position a jack under the transaxle.
46. Install all remaining engine-to-transaxle p* A halfshaft seal protector tool J- 23. Remove the remaining transaxle-to-
bolts. The one nearest the firewall is installed 34754 should be modified and engine bolt and remove the transaxle.
from the engine side; you will need a short installed on any halfshaft prior to To install:
handled box wrench or ratchet to reach it. service procedures on or near the 24. Install the transaxle in the vehicle. Install
47. Install the two transaxle strut bracket halfshaft. Failure to do so could the engine-to-transaxle bolt accessible from
bolts at the transaxle, if equipped. result in seal damage or Joint under the vehicle. Tighten to 55 ft. lbs. (75 Nm).
48. Install the detent cable and air cleaner. failure. 25. Install all of the remaining transaxle-to-
49. Connect the negative battery cable to the engine bolts. Tighten to 55 ft. lbs. (75 Nm).
transaxle. 12. Remove the halfshafts from the transaxle. 26. Remove the jack.
13. Disconnect the pinch bolt at the 27. Install the converter-to-flywheel bolts and
440-T4
intermediate steering shaft. Failure to do so the converter cover.
By September 1,1991, Hydra- could cause damage to the steering gear. 28. Connect the cooler pipes.
Matic will have changed the name 14. Remove the frame to stabilizer bolts. 29. Install the extension housing to engine
designation of the THM 440-T4 15. Remove the stabilizer bolts at the control block support bracket.
automatic transaxle. The new arm. 30. Connect the speedometer cable or wire
name designation for this transaxle 16. Remove the left front frame assembly. connector to the transaxle.
will be Hydra-Matic 4T60. 17. Disconnect the speedometer cable or 31. Install the left front frame assembly.
Transaxles built between 1989 and wire connector from the transaxle. 32. Install the stabilizer bolts at the control
1990 will serve as transitional 18. Remove the extension housing to engine arm.
years in which a dual system, made block support bracket. 33. Install the frame-to-stabilizer bolts.
up of the old designation and the
new designation will be in effect.
SLIDER AGAINST FITTING
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. ’C (ZERO OR READJUST POSITION)
2. Remove the air cleaner and disconnect the - RE-ADJUST TAB
TV cable at the throttle body. y
3. Disconnect the shift linkage at the _FITTING
transaxle. ^ THROTTLE rftJ ^ RE-ADJUST
4. Remove the engine support fixture tool J- LEVER I1 -,— -c— DIRECTION
28467 or equivalent.
5. Disconnect all electrical connectors.
6. Remove the 3 bolts from the transaxle to
the engine. SLIDER •/
\ ^ CABLE

7. Disconnect the vacuum line at the

modulator. FIG.88 Throttle Valve (TV) adjuster
8. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
7-58 DRIVE TRAIN
34. Connect the pinch bolt at the intermediate to hang unsupported. If necessary, support using 8. Remove the rotor from the hub and bearing
steering shaft. a length of wire in order to prevent component assembly.
35. Install the halfshafts to the transaxle. damage. 9. Install leaf spring compression tool J-
36. Connect the brake line bracket at the To install: 33432 or equivalent.
strut. 9. If a new halfshaft is to be Installed, a new 10. Remove the 3 bolts mounting the hub and
37. Install the left side ball joint to the steering knuckle seal should be installed first along with bearing to the knuckle.
knuckle. a boot seal protector when necessary. 11. Remove the hub and bearing assembly
38. Install the left front wheel and tire 10. Loosely install the halfshaft into the from the knuckle using special tool J—28733—A
assembly. transaxle and steering knuckle. or equivalent.
39. Lower the vehicle. 11. Loosely attach the steering knuckle to the 12. Remove the bolts and nut plate attaching
40. Connect the vacuum line at the suspension strut. the lower strut mount to the knuckle. Scribe the
modulator. 12. The halfshaft is an interference fit in the position of the upper bolt prior removing.
41. Install the 3 bolts from the transaxle to the steering knuckle. Press the axle into place, then 13. Install a suitable CV-boot protector to
engine. install the hub nut. When the shaft begins to turn prevent damage to the boot.
42. Connect all electrical connectors. with the hub, insert a drift through the caliper into 14. Swing the knuckle downward and away
43. Remove the engine support tool. one of the cooling slots in the rotor to keep it from the driveshaft.
44. Connect the shift linkage to the transaxle. from turning. 15. Remove the drive axle from the
45. Connect the TV cable at the throttle body On some vehicles, the hub flange differential using a suitable slide hammer.
and adjust as necessary. Install the air cleaner. has a notch in it which can be used To install:
46. Connect the negative battery cable. to prevent the hub and the shaft 16. Install the drive axle to the differential.
from turning, when one of the hub Ensure positive engagement by pulling outward
bearing retainer bolts is removed, on the inner axle end. Grasp the housing only. Do
not grasp and pull on the axle shaft.
Halfshafts by placing a longer bolt put In its
17. Swing the knuckle up to the lower strut
place through the notch
t SEE FIG. 75 mount.
13. Tighten the hub nut to 70 ft. lbs. (95 Nm)
18. Position the nut plate and install the lower
to completely seat the shaft.
strut mount bolts to the knuckle. Align the top
14. Install the brake caliper. Tighten the
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION bolt with scribe marks before tightening the
caliper mounting bolts to 30 ft. lbs. (41 Nm).
bolts. Tighten the bolts to 148 ft. lbs. (200 Nm).
15. Load the hub assembly by lowering it
19. Remove the CV boot protector.
onto a jackstand. Align the camber cam bolt
20. Install the hub and bearing assembly to
marks made during removal, install the bolt and
the knuckle and axle spline.
CAUTION tighten to 140 ft. lbs. (190 Nm). Tighten the
21. Install the hub and bearing attaching
upper nut to the same value.
Use care when removing the drive bolts. Tighten to 61 ft. lbs. (84 Nm).
16. Install the halfshaft all the way into the
axle. Tri-pots can be damaged iff the 22. Remove the leaf spring compression
transaxle using a suitable tool inserted into the tool.
drive axle is over-extended.
groove provided on the inner retainer. Tap the 23. Install the rotor to hub and bearing
tool until the shaft seats in the transaxle. Remove assembly.
the boot seal protector.
24. Install the brake caliper to the rotor and
Except Rear Axle - 6000 STE AWD 17. Connect the brake hose clip the the strut.
install the retaining bolts. Tighten the bolts to 38
1. Remove the hub nut and discard. A new Install the tire and wheel, lower the vehicle and
ft. lbs. (51 Nm).
hub nut must be used for reassembly. tighten the hub nut to 192 ft. lbs. (261 Nm).
25. Install the anti-lock brake sensor to the
2. Raise and safely support the vehicle. Rear Axle-6000 STE AWD knuckle and install the retaining bolt Using a non-
Remove the wheel and tire assembly. ferrous feeler gauge, adjust the sensor gap to
3. Install an halfshaft boot seal protector onto 1. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
0.028 in. (0.7mm). Tighten the adjustment
the seal. 2. Remove the tire and wheel assembly.
screw to 19 inch lbs. (2.2 Nm).
4. Disconnect the brake hose clip from the 3. Disconnect the parking brake cable end
26. Connect the parking brake cable end into
Mcpherson strut but do not disconnect the hose from the bracket.
the bracket.
from the caliper. Remove the brake caliper from 4. Insert a suitable tool through the caliper
27. Install the shaft washer and new torque
the spindle and support the caliper with a length into the rotor to prevent the rotor from turning.
prevailing nut. Hold the rotor with a suitable to
of wire. Do not allow the caliper to hang by the 5. Remove the shaft nut and washer using
prevent the axle from turning while tightening.
brake hose unsupported. special tool J—34826. Discard the shaft nut.
Tighten to 185 ft. lbs. (260 Nm).
5. Mark the camber alignment cam bolt for 6. Remove the anti-lock brake sensor bolt
28. Install the tire and wheel assembly.
reassembly. Remove the cam bolt and the upper and move the sensor aside.
7. Remove the 2 brake caliper bolts and 29. Check the rear wheel camber. Adjust as
attaching bolt from the strut and spindle. necessary.
6. Pull the steering knuckle assembly from remove the caliper. Support the caliper using a
length of wire. *+ If the lower strut to knuckle bolts
the strut bracket.
7. Remove the halfshaft from the transaxle. ^ Do not allow the caliper to hang are properly aligned with the scribe
8. Using spindle remover tool J—28733 or by the brake hose unsupported. marks, no camber adjustment
equivalent, remove the halfshaft from the hub
should be necessary.
and bearing assembly. Do not allow the halfshaft 30. Lower the vehicle.
 DRIVE TRAIN 7-59
OVERHAUL 7. Remove the race retaining ring and remove mounting plate to floor pan of the vehicle.
the seal retainer. 3. Remove the 4 bolts connecting the rear
8. Remove the inner seal retaining clamp. driveshaft to the rear axle pinion flange.
Remove the inner joint seal. Do not loosen, remove or
Inner And Outer Boots
9. Installation is the reverse of the removal disconnect the 4 bolts adjacent to
OUTER BOOT procedure. Pack the joint assembly with half of the center double cardan joint.
1. Raise and support the vehicle safely. the grease provided. Place remainder of the Disturbing these fasteners may
' 2. Remove the front tire and wheel. grease in the seal. result in a vibration.
3. Remove the caliper bolts and wire the
4. With the aid of an assistant, support the
caliper off to the side.
driveshaft while performing the following:
4. Remove the hub nut, washer and wheel Driveshaft a. Remove the 3 nuts retaining the center
bearing.
bearing support to the underbody of the
5. Using a brass drift, lightly tap around the The procedure for replacing the driveshaft on
vehicle.
seal retainer to loosen it. Remove the seal the Pontiac 6000 AWD is covered in detail under
b. Remove the 4 bolts connecting the
retainer. Automatic Transaxle Driveshaft removal and
front driveshaft to the transaxle output shaft
6. Remove the seal retaining clamp or ring installation.
flange.
and discard.
c. Remove the driveshaft from the
7. Using snapring pliers, remove the race vehicle.
retaining ring from the axle shaft. REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
To install:
8. Pull the outer joint assembly and the 5. With the aid of an assistant, perform the
outboard seal away from the axle shaft. following:
6000 SE AWD
9. Installation is the reverse of the removal a. Install the driveshaft to the vehicle.
procedure. Pack the joint assembly with half of ORIGINAL DRIVESHAFT b. Align the rear driveshaft flange to the
the grease provided. Put the remainder of the 1. Raise and safely support the vehicle. rear axle pinion flange, aligning the scribe
grease in the seal. marks.
The relationship between the
INNER BOOT center bearing support and the The center mount plate must be
1. Raise and support the vehicle safely. floor pan must be maintained. reinstalled at the scribed position
2. Remove the front tire and wheel. Established at the assembly plant, so that the front CV Joint is
3. Remove the caliper bolts and wire the the relationship has an Influence on correctly located within its travel
caliper off to the side of the vehicle. the front joint stoke capacity and limits.
4. Remove the hub nut, washer and wheel remains constant for the vehicle,
c. Loosely install the nuts to the center
bearing. regardless of the driveshaft bearing support and bolts to the rear axle
5. Remove the front drive axle as outlined installed. pinion flange. Tighten the rear driveshaft
earlier in this section: Place in a suitable holding 2. Scribe the transmission output shaft flange flange to the rear axle pinion flange bolts to 40
fixture being careful not place undue pressure on opposite the “painted” marking on the front ft. lbs. (54 Nm).
the axle shaft. driveshaft. The rear pinion flange must be d. Install the bolts to the front driveshaft-
6. Remove the joint assembly retaining ring. scribed opposite the “painted” marking on the to-transmission output flange, using the
Remove the joint assembly. rear driveshaft. Scribe the center support reference marks to align the front flange
7-60 DRIVE TRAIN
4. With the aid of an assistant, perform the
following:
a. Install the driveshaft to the vehicle.
b. Align the point marks supplied on the
flanges of the propeller shaft to the scribe
marks made during removal.
A. Correct CV joint
c. Loosely install the nuts to the center
plunge location bearing support and bolts to the rear axle
1. Driveshaft pinion flange. Tighten the rear driveshaft
2. Transmission output flange to the rear axle pinion flange bolts to 40
shaft flange
3. Transmission
ft. lbs. (54 Nm).
4. Stabilizer shaft d. Push the propeller shaft forward until a
5. Exhaust system click is heard. Temporarily install a 23mm
thick spacer between the output flange and the
FIG.78 Correct CV joint plunge location - 6000 STE AWD front driveshaft flange. Clamp in this position.
5. Install the remaining center bracket nuts.
Tighten to 20 ft. lbs. (27 Nm).
position and center bracket location. Tighten NEW DRIVESHAFT 6. Remove the spacer, extend the front CV
the center bearing support bolts using the 1. Remove the original driveshaft from the joint to meet the output flange and tighten the
scribed reference marks to 25 ft. lbs. (34 Nm); vehicle. bolts. Tighten the front propeller shaft-to-
nuts to 20 ft. lbs. (27 Nm). Tighten the front To Install: transmission output flange bolts to 40 ft. lbs.
propeller shaft-to-transmission output flange 2. Using a dial indicator, measure and mark (54 Nm).
bolts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm). the bolt hole corresponding to the high point of 7. Verify correct location of the front CV
6. Remove the support and lower the radial runout on both the transmission output joint plunge.
vehicle. flange and rear axle pinion flange. 8. Remove the supports. Lower the
3. Transfer the center bearing bracket from
vehicle.
the old driveshaft to the new driveshaft
assembly.

REAR AXLE

r+ The bolts which attach the hub

Hub and Bearing and bearing assembly also support
Axle Housing
the brake assembly. When
Assembly removing these bolts, support the
brake assembly with a wire or other
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
means. Do not let the brake line
support the brake assembly.
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
4. Install the hub and bearing assembly to the Except 6000 AWD
rear axle and torque the hub and bearing bolts to
1. Raise and support the rear end on
1. Raise and support the car on a hoist. 45 ft. lbs.
jackstands.
2. Remove the wheel and brake drum. 5. Install the brake drum, tire and wheel
assembly and lower the car. 2. Remove the rear wheels. Remove the rear
brake drums. Disconnect the parking brake from
CAUTION the rear axle.
3. Remove the brake brackets from the
Do not hammer on the brake drum ADJUSTMENT
vehicle frame.
as damage to the bearing could 4. Remove the rear shock absorbers.
result. There is no necessary adjustment to the rear Remove the track bar.
wheel bearing and hub assembly. 5. Disconnect the rear brake hoses.
6. Lower the axle assembly and remove the
3. Remove the hub and bearing assembly to coil springs and insulators.
rear axle attaching bolts and remove the hub and
7. Remove the hub attaching bolts. Remove
bearing assembly.
the hub and bearing assembly.
 DRIVE TRAIN 7-61
8. Remove the control arm bracket attaching To Install: 2. Disconnect the air pressure from the
bolts. Remove the control arms. Lower the axle 16. Install the drive axle to the differential. Electronic Level Control (ELC) system.
from the vehicle. Ensure positive engagement by pulling outward 3. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
9. To install: on the inner axle end. Grasp the housing only. Do
4. Drain the lubricant from the differential
10. Install the control arms and bracket bolts. not grasp and pull on the axle shaft.
carrier housing.
11. Install the hub and bearing assemblies 17. Swing the knuckle up to the lower strut
and bracket bolts. 5. Remove the tire and wheel assemblies.
mount.
12. Install the coil springs and insulators. 18. Position the nut plate and install the lower Mark the relationship of the
13. Raise the axle into the vehicle. strut mount bolts to the knuckle. Align the top driveshaft to the rear axle pinion
14. Connect the rear brake hoses. bolt with scribe marks before tightening the flange prior to removal of the
15. Install the shock absorbers and track bar. bolts. Tighten the bolts to 148 ft. lbs. (200 Nm). driveshaft from the rear axle pinion
16. Install the brake brackets to the vehicle 19. Remove the CV boot protector. flange to ensure proper driveshaft
frame. 20. Install the hub and bearing assembly to alignment.
17. Connect the parking brake, install the the knuckle and axle spline.
6. Disconnect the rear driveshaft at the rear
brake drums and rear wheels. 21. Install the hub and bearing attaching
axle pinion flange.
18. Remove the safety stands and lower the bolts. Tighten to 61 ft. lbs. (84 Nm).
7. Remove the rear axle assembly.
vehicle. 22. Remove the leaf spring compression
tool. 8. Remove the rear axle shafts.
Rear Axle - 6000 STE AWD 23. Install the rotor to hub and bearing 9. Disconnect the rear axle remote vent hose.
1. Raise and safely support the vehicle. assembly. 10. Remove the 3 bolts attaching the
2. Remove the tire and wheel assembly. 24. Install the brake caliper to the rotor and differential carrier assembly to the rear axle
3. Disconnect the parking brake cable end- install the retaining bolts. Tighten the bolts to 38 assembly.
from the bracket. ft. lbs. (51 Nm). 11. Remove the differential carrier assembly
4. Insert a suitable tool through the caliper 25. Install the anti-lock brake sensor to the from the rear axle assembly.
into the rotor to prevent the rotor from turning. knuckle and install the retaining bolt. Using a non- To install:
5. Remove the shaft nut and washer using ferrous feeler gauge, adjust the sensor gap to 12. Position the differential carrier in the rear
special tool J-34826.8. Discard the shaft nut. 0.028 in. (0.7mm). Tighten the adjustment
axle assembly.
6. Remove the anti-lock brake sensor bolt screw to 19 inch lbs. (2.2 Nm).
13. Install the 3 differential carrier retaining
and move the sensor aside. 26. Connect the parking brake cable end into
bolts. Tighten to 60 ft. lbs. (82 Nm).
7. Remove the 2 brake caliper bolts and the bracket.
14. Connect the rear axle remote vent hose
remove the caliper. Support the caliper using a 27. Install the shaft washer and new torque
and clamp.
length of wire. prevailing nut. Hold the rotor with a suitable to
prevent the axle from turning while tightening. 15. Install the rear axle shafts.
^ Do not allow the caliper to hang
Tighten to 185 ft. lbs. (260 Nm). 16. Install the rear axle assembly in the
by the brake hose unsupported.
28. Install the tire and wheel assembly. vehicle.
8. Remove the rotor from the hub and bearing 29. Check the rear wheel camber. Adjust as The driveshaft must be installed
assembly. necessary. using the reference mark made
9. Install leaf spring compression tool J-
If the lower strut to knuckle bolts during removal of the driveshaft.
33432 or equivalent.
are properly aligned with the scribe 17. Connect the rear driveshaft to the rear
10. Remove the 3 bolts mounting the hub and
marks, no camber adjustment axle pinion flange.
bearing to the knuckle.
should be necessary.
11. Remove the hub and bearing assembly 18. Install the tire and wheel assemblies.
from the knuckle using special tool J—28733—A 30. Lower the vehicle. 19. Fill the differential carrier housing with
or equivalent. 1.9 qts. (1.8L) of SAE 80W-90 weight gear
12. Remove the bolts and nut plate attaching lubricant.
the lower strut mount to the knuckle. Scribe the Differential Carrier 20. Remove the axle assembly supporting
position of the upper bolt prior removing. device.
13. Install a suitable CV-boot protector to
21. Lower the vehicle.
prevent damage to the boot. REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 22. Connect the negative battery cable.
14. Swing the knuckle downward and away -
23. Check the rear camber and align, as
from the driveshaft.
necessary.
15. Remove the drive axle from the
6000 SEAWD
differential using a suitable slide hammer.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
7-62 DRIVE TRAIN
Troubleshooting the Manual Transmission
Problem Cause Solution

Transmission shifts hard • Clutch adjustment incorrect • Adjust clutch

• Clutch linkage or cable binding • Lubricate or repair as necessary
• Shift rail binding • Check for mispositioned selector
arm roll pin, loose cover bolts,
worn shift rail bores, worn shift
rail, distorted oil seal, or exten¬
sion housing not aligned with
case. Repair as necessary.
• Internal bind in transmission • Remove, dissemble and inspect
caused by shift forks, selector transmission. Replace worn or
plates, or synchronizer assem¬ damaged components as nec¬
blies essary.
• Clutch housing misalignment • Check runout at rear face of clutch
housing
• Incorrect lubricant • Drain and refill transmission
• Block rings and/or cone seats • Blocking ring to gear clutch tooth
worn face clearance must be 0.030
inch or greater. If clearance is
correct it may still be necessary
to inspect blocking rings and
cone seats for excessive wear.
Repair as necessary.
Gear clash when shifting from one • Clutch adjustment incorrect • Adjust clutch
gear to another • Clutch linkage or cable binding • Lubricate or repair as necessary
• Clutch housing misalignment • Check runout at rear of clutch
housing
• Lubricant level low or incorrect • Drain and refill transmission and
lubricant check for lubricant leaks if level
was low. Repair as necessary.
• Gearshift components, or • Remove, disassemble and inspect
synchronizer assemblies worn transmission. Replace worn or
or damaged damaged components as
necessary.

Transmission noisy • Lubricant level low or incorrect • Drain and refill transmission. If
lubricant lubricant level was low, check
for leaks and repair as neces¬
sary.
• Clutch housing-to-engine, or trans- • Check and correct bolt torque as
mission-to-clutch housing bolts necessary
loose
• Dirt, chips, foreign material in • Drain, flush, and refill transmission
transmission
• Gearshift mechanism, transmis- • Remove, disassemble and inspect
sion gears, or bearing compo- transmission. Replace worn or
nents worn or damaged damaged components as nec¬
essary.
• Clutch housing misalignment • Check runout at rear face of clutch
housing
 DRIVE TRAIN 7-63
Troubleshooting the Manual Transmission
Problem Cause Solution

Jumps out of gear • Clutch housing misalignment • Check runout at rear face of clutch
housing
• Gearshift lever loose • Check lever for worn fork. Tighten
loose attaching bolts.
• Offset lever nylon insert worn or • Remove gearshift lever and check
lever attaching nut loose for loose offset lever nut or worn
insert. Repair or replace as nec¬
essary.
• Gearshift mechanism, shift forks, • Remove, disassemble and inspect
selector plates, interlock plate, transmission cover assembly.
selector arm, shift rail, detent Replace worn or damaged com¬
plugs, springs or shift cover ponents as necessary.
worn or damaged
• Clutch shaft or roller bearings worn • Replace clutch shaft or roller bear¬
or damaged ings as necessary
Jumps out of gear (cont.) • Gear teeth worn or tapered, syn¬ • Remove, disassemble, and inspect
chronizer assemblies worn or transmission. Replace worn or
damaged, excessive end play damaged components as nec¬
caused by worn thrust washers essary.
or output shaft gears
• Pilot bushing worn • Replace pilot bushing
Will not shift into one gear • Gearshift selector plates, interlock • Remove, disassemble, and inspect
plate, or selector arm, worn, transmission cover assembly.
damaged, or incorrectly assem¬ Repair or replace components
bled as necessary.
• Shift rail detent plunger worn, • Tighten plug or replace worn or
spring broken, or plug loose damaged components as nec¬
essary
• Gearshift lever worn or damaged • Replace gearshift lever
• Synchronizer sleeves or hubs, • Remove, disassemble and inspect
damaged or worn transmission. Replace worn or
damaged components.
Locked in one gear—cannot be • Shift rail(s) worn or broken, shifter • Inspect and replace worn or dam¬
shifted out fork bent, setscrew loose, center aged parts
detent plug missing or worn
• Broken gear teeth on countershaft • Inspect and replace damaged part
gear, clutch shaft, or reverse
idler gear
Gearshift lever broken or worn, shift • Disassemble transmission.
mechanism in cover incorrectly Replace damaged parts or as¬
assembled or broken, worn dam¬ semble correctly.
aged gear train components
7-64 DRIVE TRAIN
Troubleshooting Basic Clutch Problems
Problem Cause

Excessive clutch noise Throwout bearing noises are more audible at the lower end of pedal
travel. The usual causes are:
• Riding the clutch
• Too little pedal free-play
• Lack of bearing lubrication
A bad clutch shaft pilot bearing will make a high pitched squeal, when the
clutch is disengaged and the transmission is in gear or within the first 2”
of pedal travel. The bearing must be replaced.
Noise from the clutch linkage is a clicking or snapping that can be heard
or felt as the pedal is moved completely up or down. This usually re¬
quires lubrication.
Transmitted engine noises are amplified by the clutch housing and heard
in the passenger compartment. They are usually the result of insuffi¬
cient pedal free-play and can be changed by manipulating the clutch
pedal.
Clutch slips (the car does not move This is usually most noticeable when pulling away from a standing start. A
as it should when the clutch is severe test is to start the engine, apply the brakes, shift into high gear
engaged) and SLOWLY release the clutch pedal. A healthy clutch will stall the
engine. If it slips it may be due to:
• A worn pressure plate or clutch plate
• Oil soaked clutch plate
• Insufficient pedal free-play
Clutch drags or fails to release The clutch disc and some transmission gears spin briefly after clutch dis¬
engagement. Under normal conditions in average temperatures, 3 sec¬
onds is maximum spin-time. Failure to release properly can be caused
by:
• Too light transmission lubricant or low lubricant level
• Improperly adjusted clutch linkage
Low clutch life Low clutch life is usually a result of poor driving habits or heavy duty use.
Riding the clutch, pulling heavy loads, holding the car on a grade with
the clutch instead of the brakes and rapid clutch engagement all con¬
tribute to low clutch life.
 DRIVE TRAIN 7-65
Troubleshooting Basic Automatic Transmission Problems
Problem Cause Solution
Fluid leakage • Defective pan gasket • Replace gasket or tighten pan
bolts
• Loose filler tube • Tighten tube nut
• Loose extension housing to trans¬ • Tighten bolts
mission case
• Converter housing area leakage • Have transmission checked
professionally
Fluid flows out the oil filler tube • High fluid level • Check and correct fluid level
• Breather vent clogged • Open breather vent
• Clogged oil filter or screen • Replace filter or clean screen
(change fluid also)
• Interna! fluid leakage • Have transmission checked
professionally
Transmission overheats (this is usu¬ • Low fluid level • Check and correct fluid level
ally accompanied by a strong • Fluid cooler lines clogged • Drain and refill transmission. If this
burned odor to the fluid) doesn’t cure the problem, have
cooler lines cleared or replaced.
• Heavy pulling or hauling with insuf¬ • Install a transmission oil cooler
ficient cooling
• Faulty oil pump, internal slippage • Have transmission checked
professionally
Buzzing or whining noise • Low fluid level • Check and correct fluid level
• Defective torque converter, scored • Have transmission checked
gears professionally
No forward or reverse gears or slip¬ • Low fluid level • Check and correct fluid level
page in one or more gears • Defective vacuum or linkage • Have unit checked professionally
controls, internal clutch or band
failure
Delayed or erratic shift • Low fluid level • Check and correct fluid level
• Broken vacuum lines • Repair or replace lines
• Internal malfunction • Have transmission checked
professionally
7-66 DRIVE TRAIN
Lockup Torque Converter Service Diagnosis
Problem Cause Solution

No lockup • Faulty oil pump • Replace oil pump

• Sticking governor valve • Repair or replace as necessary
• Valve body malfunction • Repair or replace valve body or its
(a) Stuck switch valve internal components as neces¬
(b) Stuck lockup valve sary
(c) Stuck fail-safe valve
• Failed locking clutch • Replace torque converter
• Leaking turbine hub seal • Replace torque converter
• Faulty input shaft or seal ring • Repair or replace as necessary

Will not unlock • Sticking governor valve • Repair or replace as necessary

• Valve body malfunction • Repair or replace valve body or its
(a) Stuck switch valve internal components as neces¬
(b) Stuck lockup valve sary
(c) Stuck fail-safe valve
Stays locked up at too low a speed • Sticking governor valve • Repair or replace as necessary
in direct • Valve body malfunction • Repair or replace valve body or its
(a) Stuck switch valve internal components as neces¬
(b) Stuck lockup valve sary
(c) Stuck fail-safe valve
Locks up or drags in low or second • Faulty oil pump • Replace oil pump
♦ Valve body malfunction • Repair or replace valve body or its
(a) Stuck switch valve internal components as neces¬
(b) Stuck fail-safe valve sary
Sluggish or stalls in reverse • Faulty oil pump • Replace oil pump as necessary
• Plugged cooler, cooler lines or • Flush or replace cooler and flush
fittings lines and fittings
• Valve body malfunction • Repair or replace valve body or its
(a) Stuck switch valve internal components as neces¬
(b) Faulty input shaft or seal sary
ring
Loud chatter during lockup engage¬ • Faulty torque converter • Replace torque converter
ment (cold) • Failed locking clutch • Replace torque converter
• Leaking turbine hub seal • Replace torque converter
Vibration or shudder during lockup • Faulty oil pump • Repair or replace oil pump as nec¬
engagement essary
• Valve body malfunction • Repair or replace valve body or its
internal components as neces¬
sary
• Faulty torque converter • Replace torque converter
• Engine needs tune-up • Tune engine
Vibration after lockup engagement • Faulty torque converter • Replace torque converter
• Exhaust system strikes underbody • Align exhaust system
• Engine needs tune-up • Tune engine
• Throttle linkage misadjusted • Adjust throttle linkage
 DRIVE TRAIN 7-67
Lockup Torque Converter Service Diagnosis
Problem Cause Solution

Vibration when revved in neutral • Torque converter out of balance • Replace torque converter
Overheating: oil blows out of dip • Plugged cooler, cooler lines or fit¬ • Flush or replace cooler and flush
stick tube or pump seal tings lines and fittings
• Stuck switch valve • Repair switch valve in valve body
or replace valve body
Shudder after lockup engagement • Faulty oil pump • Replace oil pump
• Plugged cooler, cooler lines or • Flush or replace cooler and flush
fittings lines and fittings
i • Valve body malfunction • Repair or replace valve body or its
internal components as neces¬
sary
• Faulty torque converter • Replace torque converter
• Fail locking clutch • Replace torque converter
• Exhaust system strikes underbody • Align exhaust system
• Engine needs tune-up • Tune engine
• Throttle linkage misadjusted • Adjust throttle linkage

Transmission Fluid Indications

The appearance and odor of the transmission fluid can give valuable clues to the overall condition of the transmission.
Always note the appearance of the fluid when you check the fluid level or change the fluid. Rub a small amount of fluid
between your fingers to feel for grit and smell the fluid on the dipstick.

If the fluid appears: It indicates:

Clear and red colored • Normal operation

Discolored (extremely dark red or brownish) or smells • Band or clutch pack failure, usually caused by an
burned overheated transmission. Hauling very heavy loads
with insufficient power or failure to change the fluid,
often result in overheating.
Do not confuse this appearance with newer fluids
that have a darker red color and a strong odor
(though not a burned odor).
Foamy or aerated (light in color and full of bubbles) • The level is too high (gear train is churning oil)
• An internal air leak (air is mixing with the fluid). Have
the transmission checked professionally.
Solid residue in the fluid • Defective bands, clutch pack or bearings. Bits of band
material or metal abrasives are clinging to the dip¬
stick. Have the transmission checked professionally.
Varnish coating on the dipstick • The transmission fluid is overheating
7-68 DRIVE TRAIN
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
Component U.S. Metric
Clutch Assembly:
Clutch master cylinder: 15-25 ft. lbs. 20-34 Nm
Clutch pedal to bracket: 20-25 ft. lbs. 28-34 Nm
Clutch release lever: 30-45 ft. lbs. 40-60 Nm
Clutch slave cylinder: 14-20 ft. lbs. 18-26 Nm
4 Speed Transaxle:
Case to cover bolts: 16 ft. lbs. 21 Nm
Front support strut: 48 ft. lbs. 65 Nm
Input shaft right bearing retainer: 7 ft. lbs. 9 Nm
Pinion shaft lock bolt: 7 ft. lbs. 9 Nm
Output shaft left bearing retainer: 45 ft. lbs. 65 Nm
Rear mount through bolt nut: 80 ft. lbs. 108 Nm
Reverse idler shaft lock bolt: 16 ft. lbs. 21 Nm
Reverse inhibitor fitting: 26 ft. lbs. 35 Nm
Ring gear bolts: 54 ft. lbs. 73 Nm
Shift control mount nuts: 18 ft. lbs. 24 Nm
Transaxle to engine: 47-62 ft. lbs. 65-85 Nm
5 Speed Transaxle:
Clutch housing to gear housing: 15 ft. lbs. 21 Nm
Control box to case: 11-16 ft. lbs. 15-22 Nm
Dentent spring retaining bolt: 15-21 ft. lbs. 21-29 Nm
Differential gear: 61 ft. lbs. 83 Nm
Differential pin: 84 inch lbs. 9 Nm
End plate to gear housing: 15 ft. lbs. 21 Nm
Fluid drain plug: 18 ft. lbs. 24 Nm
Flywheel: 44-60 ft. lbs. 60-80 Nm
Front strut to frame: 50 ft. lbs. 68 Nm
Front strut to transaxle: 40 ft. lbs. 54 Nm
Input shaft bearing support: 50 ft. lbs. 70 Nm
Input/output shaft retaining nuts: 87-101 lbs. 118-137 Nm
Interlock plate: 15 ft. lbs. 21 Nm
Neutral Switch: 3 ft. lbs. 4-5 Nm
Output bearing race: 15 ft. lbs. 21 Nm
Output shaft bearing support: 50 ft. lbs. 70 Nm
Pressure plate to flywheel: 14-18 ft. lbs. 18-24 Nm
Rear cover: 11-16 lbs. 15-22 Nm
Rear mount through bolt nut: 80 lbs. 108 Nm
Reverse idler shaft bolt: 22-33 lbs. 30-45 Nm
Reverse shift bracket: 11-16 ft. lbs. 15-22 Nm
Ring gear bolts: 73-79 lbs. 98-107 Nm
Shift control mount nuts: 18 lbs. 24 Nm
Transaxle case to clutch housing: 22-33 lbs. 30-45 Nm
Transaxle to engine: 60 lbs. 75 Nm
ALIGNMENT (WHEEL) SHOCK ABSORBERS
Front 8-8 Front 8-5
COMBINATION SWITCH 8-6 Rear 8-12
FRONT SUSPENSION SPECIFICATIONS CHARTS
Ball joints Wheel alignment 8-9
Lower 8-5
SPRINGS
Knuckle and spindle 8-7
Front 8-5
Lower control arm 8-6
Rear 8-11
Shock absorbers 8-5
STABILIZER BAR
Springs 8-5
Front 8-6
Stabilizer bar 8-6
Wheel alignment 8-8 STEERING COLUMN
FRONT WHEEL BEARINGS 8-7 Removal and installation 8-19
IGNITION SWITCH AND LOCK STEERING GEAR
CYLINDER 8-17 Power 8-19
KNUCKLES 8-7 STEERING LINKAGE
LOWER BALL JOINT 8-5 Tie rod ends 8-19
LOWER CONTROL ARM 8-6 STEERING LOCK 8-17
POWER STEERING GEAR
STEERING WHEEL 8-15
Removal and installation 8-19
POWER STEERING PUMP TIE ROD ENDS 8-19
Adjustments 8-21 TROUBLESHOOTING CHARTS
Removal and installation 8-20 Power steering pump 8-24
Troubleshooting 8-24 Turn signal switch 8-22
REAR SUSPENSION TURN SIGNAL SWITCH 8-16
Bearings 8-13 WHEEL ALIGNMENT
Shock absorbers 8-12 Front 8-8
Springs 8-11 Specifications 8-9

Front Suspension 8-3

Rear Suspension 8-11
Steering 8-15
Front Wheel Alignment
Specifications 8-9
8-2 SUSPENSION AND STEERING
WHEELS

ground. Place dish detergent and water solution

Front and Rear Wheel Inspection around the wheel and wait a few minutes. If there
is a slow leak you will see subs. Flip the tire over
Wheels can be distorted or bent and not effect and repeat this procedure. If a leak is found the
dry road handling to a noticeable degree. Out of
tire must be removed from the wheel. The the tire
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION round wheels will show up as uneven tire wear, bead and wheel rim cleaned, lubricated and
or make it difficult to balance the tires. Without reassembled. Always recheck to make sure the
special tools it is difficult to check wheel radial leak is fixed.
There are many different aftermarket wheels runout. It would be best to ask the shop that
that can be installed on your car. The procedures balances the tires for you to do this. But a good
given in this manual are for the factory original visual inspection will usually reveal any
wheels. Take care if your car as other than problems.
Wheel Studs
factory wheels for their correct installation, too. Look for any bends, cracks or bends. Not
Pay attention to any special washers, spacers or repairs can be made to a wheel. If a wheel has
adapters that may have come with aftermarket any repair marks like welds or patches it should
wheels. REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
be discarded Steel wheels that have slight
1. When removing a wheel, loosen all the lug bends where the tire meets the wheel doesn’t
nuts at least one full turn, before jacking up the
mean the wheel is bad. Many times this is cause t SEE FIGS. 1 to 3
car. by the tire changing machine and can be 1. Raise and safely support the car.
2. Raise and safely support the car.
hammered back into shape. This will only work 2. Remove the brake assembly components.
3. Finish removing the already loosened lug
on steel wheels not alloy or aluminum. If a wheel 3. Remove the hub assembly.
nuts. Sometimes applying slight pressure on
had a little bend in this area and had been repair 4. Remove the damaged stud using a C-
wheel toward car will make it easy to screw
it should be rebalanced and placed in a tank of clamp and pressing it out the back. Hammering
them off by hand.
water to check for leaks. can be done if there is no bearing assembly to be
4. Remove the wheel, take care on some
Another way to check for leaks where the damaged.
drum brakes the dmm could slide off.
wheel and tire meet is to lay the wheel flat on the 5. Install the new stud by inserting in hole.
5. If the wheel is stuck on the hub place at
least to lug nuts back on. Only screw them on
two or three turns, don’t allow them to touch the
wheel.
6. Lower the vehicle back on the ground and
rock it side to side. This is safer than shaking a
vehicle that is on a jack. After the wheel pops
loose, repeat Steps 2 through 5.
To install:
7. Place wheel on car, hand tighten all lug
nuts. If studs or nuts are rusty, now is a good
time to place some light lubricate on them.
8. After all nuts are hand tighten, finished
tighten until snug by skipping every other nut.
This is called a star pattern, because on a five lug
car it makes a star design.
9. After all nuts are very snug, lower the
vehicle.
10. Finishing tightening with a torque wrench
to 100 ft. lbs., or on aftermarket wheels what
ever they recommend.
[T| HUB AND BEARING ASSEMBLY
* HEAVY DUTY BRAKING SYSTEM
❖❖ WARNING |Tj STEERING KNUCKLE ** STANDARD BRAKING SYSTEM

Warning: Uneven tightening of

wheel lug nuts can cause early disc
[T] SHIELD \T\ SEAL
[T| WASHER
95 N-m (70 LB. FT.)*
brake pad and rotor wear.
1~5~] 260 N-m (192 LB. FT.) 85 N-m (63 LB. FT.)**
ITT] O-RING

FIG. 1 Hub and bearing assembly

 SUSPENSION AND STEERING 8-3

1. HUB AND BEARING ASSEMBLY REMOVED FROM

VEHICLE
2. INSERT WASHERS OVER WHEEL STUD
1. HUB AND 8EARING ASSEMBLY
REMOVED FROM VEHICLE 3. TIGHTEN NUT TO DRAW WHEEL STUD INTO CORRECT
2. WHEEL NUT INSTALLED ON WHEEL POSITION
STUD
3. WHEEL STUD REMOVING
TOOL J-6627-A FiG.3 Install the wheel lug stud

FIG.2 Removing the wheel lug stud

7. Make certain stud doesn’t turn in hub or it 8. Reinstall the hub and brake components.
6. Place washers on stud, install nut and will strip out the hole. If stud doesn’t fit very tight 9. Install the wheel following instruction given
tighten evenly to pull stud into place. you’ll need to replace the hub, too. earlier and lower vehicle.

FRONT SUSPENSION

The A-Bodies use a MacPherson strut front

suspension design. A MacPherson strut
combines the functions of a shock absorber and
an upper suspension member (upper arm) into
one unit. The strut is surrounded by a coil spring,
which provides normal front suspension
functions.
The strut bolts to the body shell at its upper
end, and to the steering knuckle at the lower end.
The strut pivots with the steering knuckle by
means of a sealed mounting assembly at the
upper end which contains a preloaded, non-
adjustable bearing.
The steering knuckle is connected to the
chassis at the lower end by a conventional lower
control arm, and pivots in the arm in a preloaded
ball joint of standard design. The knuckle is
fastened to the ball joint stud by means of a
castellated nut and cotter pin.
Advantages of the MacPherson strut design,
aside from its relative simplicity, include reduced
weight and friction, minimal intrusion into the
engine and passenger compartments, and ease
of service.
8-4 SUSPENSION AND STEERING

FIG.5 Exploded view of the MacPherson strut

 SUSPENSION AND STEERING 8-5
To install:
MacPherson Struts 8. Install the strut to the body. Tighten the Lower Ball Joints
upper nuts hand tight.
Springs and Shock ♦ SEE FIGS. 7 to 9
9. Place a jack under the lower arm. Raise
Absorbers the arm and install the lower strut-to-knuckle
bolts. Align the strut-to-steering knuckle
marks made during removal. Tighten the strut-
INSPECTION
to-knuckle bolts to 140 ft. lbs. (190 Nm), and
the strut-to-body nuts to 18 ft. lbs. (24 Nm).
TESTING 1. Raise and safely support the car.
10. Install the brake hose clip on the strut.
2. Grasp the tire at top and bottom and move
11. Install the wheel and lower the car.
the top to the tire in and out.
The function of the shock absorber is to If a new strut damper has been 3. Observe for any horizontal movement of
dampen harsh spring movement and provide a installed, the front end will have to the knuckle relative to the control arm.
means of dissipating the motion of the wheels so be realigned. 4. Ball joints must be replaced if there is any
that the shocks encountered by the wheels are
looseness in the ball joint and should be replaced
not totally transmitted to the body and, therefore,
if the seal is damaged. The ball joint may check
to you and your passengers. As the wheel OVERHAUL good with a bad seal, but will not last long due to
moves up and down, the shock absorber
dirt and water entering the joint.
shortens and lengthens, thereby imposing a
restraint on movement by its hydraulic action. A MacPherson strut compressor tool J-
A good way to see if your shock absorbers 26584 or the equivalent must be used.
are functioning correctly is to push one comer of 1. Clamp the strut compressor in a vise.
the car until it is moving up and down for almost 2. Install the strut in the compressor. Install
the full suspension travel, then release it and the compressor adapters, if used.
watch its recovery. If the car bounces slightly 3. Compress the spring approximately V2 in.
about one more time and comes to a rest, the (13mm). Do not bottom the spring or the strut
shock is all right. If the car continues to bounce rod.
excessively, the shocks will probably require 4. Remove the strut shaft top nut and the top
replacement. mount and bearing assembly from the strut.
5. Unscrew the compressor until all spring
tension is relieved. Remove the spring.
6. Place the strut into the compressor. Rotate
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION the strut until the spindle mounting flange is
facing out, away from the compressor.
7. Place the spring on the strut. Make sure it
1. Remove the top strut-to-body mounting
is properly seated on the strut bottom plate.
nuts.
8. Install the strut assembly on the spring.
2. Loosen the wheel nuts, then raise and
Install the compressor adapters, if used.
support the vehicle on jackstands.
9. Tighten the strut compressor until it just FIG.7 Drilling out the ball joint rivets
3. Remove the brake line clip from the strut,
contacts the spring seat, or the adapters if a tool
then the wheel and the tire assembly.
4. Install the boot protector tool J—28712 with adapters is being used.
10. Thread on alignment rod tool J—26584—
(Double-Offset joint) or J-33162 (Tri-Pot joint)
27 (1982-83) or J-34013-27 (1984-88), onto
over the drive axle boot.
the strut damper shaft, hdhd tight.
If equipped with a Tri-Pot Joint, 11. Compress the spring until approximately
disconnect the drive axle from the IV2 in. (38mm) of the damper rod can be pulled
transaxle before separating the up through the top spring seat. Do not compress
strut from the steering knuckle. the spring until it bottoms.
5. Before separating the strut from the 12. Remove the alignment rod and install the
steering knuckle, perform the following: top mount and nut. Tighten the nut to 65 ft. lbs.
a. Refer to view A, then using a sharp (88 Nm.).
tool, scribe the steering knuckle along the 13. Unscrew the compressor and remove the
lower outboard strut radius. stmt.
b. Refer to view B, then scribe the strut
flange on the inboard side, along the curve of
the steering knuckle.
c. Refer to view C, then using a chisel,
mark the strut-to-steering knuckle interface.
6. Remove the steering knuckle-to-strut
bolts. FIG.8 Installing the ball joint
7. Remove the stmt.
8-6 SUSPENSION AND STEERING
2. Remove the two nuts attaching the
TORQUE APPLIED TO NUT stabilizer bar to the left lower control arm.
40 FT. LBS. (50 NM) Remove the four bolts which attach the left
retaining plate to the engine cradle. The retaining
plate covers and holds the stabilizer bar.
3. Loosen the four bolts holding the right
stabilizer bracket.
REPLACE 4. Disconnect and remove the exhaust pipe
and crossover if necessary.
5. Pull the stabilizer bar down on the left side.
6. Reverse steps 1 through 5 to install the
stabilizer bar
BOLT SHOULD EASILY GO IN
PLACE. IF NOT, CHECK STUD To aid In stabilizer bar
ALIGNMENT Installation, a pry hole has been
provided In the engine cradle.
FIG.9 Ball joint stud should go in easily
7. Install the stabilizer bar attachment
Tighten to 35 ft. lbs.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 5. Loosen the ball joint pinch bolt in the
steering knuckle. Lower Control Arm
6. Remove the ball joint.
Only one ball joint is used in each lower arm. 7. Install the new ball joint in the control arm.
The MacPherson strut design does not use an Tighten the bolts supplied with the replacement
upper ball joint. joint to 13 ft. lbs. (18 Nm). REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
^ Care must be exercised to 8. Install the ball stud into the knuckle pinch
prevent the halfshafts from being bolt fitting. It should go in easily; if not, check the
1. Loosen the wheel nuts, raise the car, and
over extended. Support the lower stud alignment. Install the pinch bolt from the
remove the wheel.
arm. rear to the front. Tighten to 40 ft. lbs. (50 Nm) for
2. Remove the stabilizer bar from the control
for 1982-84 or 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm) for 1985-
1. Loosen the wheel nuts, raise the car, and arm.
88. 3. Remove the ball joint pinch bolt in the
remove the wheel. 9. Install the wheel and lower the car.
2. Use an Vs in. (3mm) drill bit to drill a hole steering knuckle.
approximately V4 in. (6mm) deep in the center ot 4. Remove the control arm pivot bolts and the
each of the three ball joint rivets. Stabilizer Bar control arm.
3. Use a V2 in. (13mm) drill bit to drill off the 5. To install, insert the control arm into its
rivet heads. Drill only enough to remove the rivet fittings. Install the pivot bolts from the rear to the
head. REMOVAL & INSTALLATION front. Tighten the bolts to 66 ft. lbs. (90 Nm).
Warning:Take care not to drill through the 6. Insert the ball stud into the knuckle pinch
halfshaft dust boots. bolt fitting. It should go in easily; if not, check the
4. Use a hammer and punch to remove the 1. Raise and support the vehicle on ball joint stud alignment.
rivets. Drive them out from the bottom. jackstands.
 SUSPENSION AND STEERING 8-7
Front Hub and Bearing

REMOVAL AND
INSTALLATION

The front wheel bearings are sealed, non-

REMOVE LOWER CONTROL ARM BUSHING
adjustable units which require no periodic
attention. They are bolted to the steering knuckle
by means of an integral flange.
You will need a special tool to pull the bearing
free of the halfshaft tool J-28733 or the
equivalent. You should also use a halfshaft boot
protector tool J-28712 (Double-Offset joint) or
J-33162 (Tri-Pot joint) to protect the parts from
damage.
1. Remove the wheel cover, loosen the hub
INSTALL LOWER CONTROL ARM BUSHING nut, and raise and support the car. Remove the
[T] J 21474-18-NUT [~5~| J 21474-19-BOLT front wheel.
2. Install the boot cover, tool J-28712
|~2~| BEARING [~6] J 21474-25-SPACER
(Double-Offset joint) or J—33162 (Tri-Pot joint).
[T] J 21058-12 [71
J 35561-3 3. Remove and discard the hub nut. Be sure
(BUSHING REMOVER) — (BUSHING INSTALLER) to use a new one on assembly, not the old one.
[Tl J 21474-5 4. Remove the brake caliper and rotor:
— (BUSHING RECEIVER) a. Remove the alien head caliper
mounting bolts;
FIG.lOa Lower control arm bushing replacement
b. Remove the caliper from the knuckle
and suspend from a length of wire. Do not
7. Install the pinch bolt from the rear to the 5. Mark the camber alignment cam bolt for allow the caliper to hang from the brake hose.
front. Tighten to 40 ft. lbs. (50 Nm) for 1982-84 reassembly. Remove the cam bolt and the upper Pull the rotor from the knuckle.
or 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm) for 1985-92. attaching bolt from the strut and spindle. 5. Remove the three hub and bearing
8. Install the stabilizer bar clamp. Tighten to 6. Pull the steering knuckle assembly from attaching bolts and remove the hub. If the old
33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm). bearing is to be reused, match mark the bolts
the strut bracket.
9. Install the wheel and lower the car. Prior to installation, a new knuckle seal should and holes for installation. The brake rotor splash
be installed on the steering knuckle. shield will have to come off, too.
6. Attach a puller, tool J-28733 or the
7. Loosely attach the steering knuckle to the
equivalent, and remove the bearing. If corrosion
Knuckle suspension strut, then install the rotor and the
is present, make sure the bearing is loose in the
hub nut. When the shaft begins to turn with the
knuckle before using the puller.
hub, insert a drift through the caliper into one of
the cooling slots in the rotor to keep it from
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION turning. Insert a long bolt in the hub flange to
prevent the shaft from turning. Tighten the hub
nut to 70 ft. lbs.
1. Remove the hub nut. 8. Tighten the brake caliper bolts to 30 ft. lbs.
2. Raise the front of the car. Remove the 9. Load the hub assembly by lowering it onto
wheel and tire. a jackstand. Align the camber cam bolt marks
3. Install an axle shaft boot seal protector, made during removal, install the bolt and tighten
GM special tool No. J-28712 or equivalent, onto to 140 ft. lbs. Tighten the upper nut to the same
the seal. value.
4. Disconnect the brake hose clip from the 10. Remove the boot seal protector.
MacPherson strut, but do not disconnect the 11. Connect the brake hose clip to the strut.
hose from the caliper. Remove the brake caliper, Install the tire and wheel, lower the car, and
rotor and shield from the spindle, and hang the tighten the hub nut to 225 ft. lbs. (1981-82); 185
caliper out of the way by a length of wire. Do not ft. lbs. (1983-92).
allow the caliper to hang by the brake hose. FIG.11 Using a seal driver when installing a
new seal into the knuckle
8-8 SUSPENSION AND STEERING
CAMBER

Camber is the inward or outward tilt from the

vertical, measured in degrees, of the front
wheels at the top. An outward tilt gives the wheel
positive camber, an inward tilt is called negative
camber. Proper camber is critical to assure even
tire wear.
Camber angle is adjusted on the A-Bodies by
loosening the through bolts which attach the
MacPherson strut to the steering knuckle in or
out. The bolts must be tightened to 140 ft. lbs.
(190 Nm) afterwards. The bolts must be seated
properly between the inner and outer guide
surfaces on the strut flange. Measurement of the
camber angle requires special alignment
equipment; thus the adjustment of camber is not
a do-it-yourself job, and not covered here.

TOE

Toe is the amount, measured in a fraction of

a millimeter, that the wheels are closer together
at one end than the other. Toe-in means that the
front wheels are closer together at the front than
the rear; toe-out means the rear of the front
wheels are closer together than the front. A-Body
cars are designed to have a slight amount of toe-
in.
Toe is adjusted by turning the tie rods. It must
7. Clean the mating surfaces of all dirt and be checked after camber has been adjusted, but
corrosion. Check the knuckle bore and knuckle Front End Alignment it can be adjusted without disturbing the camber
seal for damage. If a new bearing is to be setting, you can make this adjustment without
installed, remove the old knuckle seal and install Only camber and toe are adjustable on these special equipment if you make very careful
a new one. Grease the lips of the new seal before cars; caster is preset and non-adjustable. measurements. The wheels must be straight
installation; install with a seal driver made for the ahead.
purpose, tool J-28671 (1982-84) or J-34657
(1985-92).
8. Push the bearing onto the halfshaft. Install
a new washer and hub nut.
9. Tighten the new hub nut on the halfshaft
until the bearing is seated. If the rotor and hub
start to rotate as the hub nut is tightened, insert
a drift through the caliper and into the rotor
cooling fins to prevent rotation. Do not apply full
torque to the hub nut at this time - just seat the
bearing.
10. Install the brake shield and the bearing
retaining bolts. Tighten the bolts evenly to 63 ft.
lbs. (85 Nm).
11. Install the caliper and rotor. Be sure that
the caliper hose isn’t twisted. Install the caliper
bolts and tighten to 28 ft. lbs. (38 Nm) for 1982—
84 or 38 ft. lbs. (51 Nm) for 1985-92.
12. Install the wheel. Lower the car. Tighten
the hub nut to 214 ft. lbs. (290 Nm) for *82 or
192 ft. lbs. (260 Nm) for 1983-92.
 SUSPENSION AND STEERING 8-9

FIG.16 Adjusting the toe at the tie rod ends

between the edges of the wheel rims, but make nuts to 44 ft. lbs. (60 Nm). Adjust the boots and
sure to move the car forward and measure in a tighten the clamps.
couple of places to avoid errors caused by bent
rims or wheel runout. WARNING
2. If the measurement is not within
specifications, loosen the nuts at the steering If out of adjustment enough a tire
knuckle end of the tie rod, and remove the tie rod can wear out In only a few miles. It
boot clamps. Rotate the tie rods to align the toe is advisable to have a front end
1. Toe can be determined by measuring the to specifications. Rotate the tie rods evenly, or alignment professional done after
distance between the centers of the tire treads, at replacing steering or suspension
the steering wheel will be crooked when you’re
the front of the tire and at the rear. If the tread components to avoid costly tire
done.
pattern makes this impossible, you can measure wear.
3. When the adjustment is correct, tighten the

WHEEL ALIGNMENT
Steering
Axis
Caster (deg.) Camber (deg.) Toe-in Inclination
Year Models Range Pref. Range Pref. (in.) (deg.)
1982 All 1-3 2 -V2-V2 0 0 14.5
1983 All 1-3 2 -V2-V2 0 0 NA
1984 All 1-3 2 -V2-V2 0 0 NA
1985 All 1-3 2 -V2-V2 0 0 NA
1986 All 3/4—23/4 13/4 -V2-V2 0 0 NA
1987 All 3/4—23/4 13/4 -V2-V2 0 0 NA
1988 Celebrity
front -23/32-223/32 1 23/32 -V2-V2 0 0 NA
rear — — — 0 0 NA
Century
front —3/4—23/4 13/4 -V2-V2 0 0 NA
rear — — -5/l6-5/l6 0 0 NA
Cutlass
front 1V2-2V2 2 3/l 6-13/l 6 11/l6 0 NA
rear — — — 0 0 NA
6000
front -23/32-223/32 123/32 -V2-V2 0 0 NA
rear — — — 0 0 NA
8-10 SUSPENSION AND STEERING

WHEEL ALIGNMENT
Steering
Axis
Caster (deg.) Camber (deg.) Toe-in Inclination
Year Models Range Pref. Range Pref. (in.) (deg.)
1989 Century

z z
3> >
front —%—2% 13/4 -V2-V2 0 0
rear 5/ie-5/ie 0 0

Cutlass
front 15/l6-25/l6 113/l6 -V2-V2 0 0 NA
rear — — 5/ie-5/ie 0 0 NA

6000
front 1 Vl6—21 Vl6 I1 Vl6 -V2-V2 0 0 NA
rearexc. AWD — — -V4-1/4 0 0 NA
rear AWD — — -1-1/2 -V2 0 NA

1990 Century
front -3/4_23/4 13/4 -V2-V2 0 0 NA
rear — — -5/l6-5/l6 0 0 NA

Celebrity
front 1 Vl6—21 Vl6 1 Vi 6 -V2-V2 0 0 NA
rear — — 5/ie-5/ie 0 0 NA
Cutlass
front 1V2-2V2 2 3/l 6-13/l 6 1 Vi 6 0 NA
rear 14" wheel — — —3/g—5/g V8 0 NA
rearexc. 14" wheel — — -1 Vl6-5/l6 —3/16 0 NA
6000
front 1 Vi6—21 Vi6 11 Vi6 -V2-V2 0 0 NA
rear exc. AWD — — —V4—V4 0 0 NA
rear AWD — — -1-1/2 -1/2 0 NA
1991 Century
front 1 Vi6—21 Vi 6 11 Vi 6 -V2-V2 0 0 NA
rear — — —5/l 6—5/l 6 0 0 NA
Cutlass
front 15/l6-25/l6 113/i6 3/l 6-13/i 6 1 Vi 6 0 NA
rear — — -1 Vl6-5/l6 —3/16 0 NA
6000
front 1 Vi6—21 V16 I1 Vie -V2-V2 0 0 NA
in'*

10^

rear — — 0 0 NA
CD

CD
1

1992 Century
front 1 Vi6—21 Vi 6 11 Vi 6 -V2-V2 0 0 NA
rear — — -5/l 6-5/l 6 0 0 NA
Cutlass
front 15/l6-25/l6 113/l6 3/l 6-13/l 6 '’Vie 0 NA
rear — — -1 Vl6-5/l6 —3/i6 0 NA
6000
front 1 Vi 6-21 Vi 6 I1 Vie -V2-V2 0 0 NA
ID'-

rear 0 0 NA
CD

CD

— —
1

i
 SUSPENSION AND STEERING 8-11
REAR SUSPENSION

Rear suspension consists of a solid rear axle

tube containing an integral, welded-in stabilizer
bar, coil springs, shock absorbers, a lateral track
bar, and trailing arms. The trailing arms (control
arms) are welded to the axle, and pivot at the
frame. Fore and after movement is controlled by 1. Underbody
the trailing arms; lateral movement is controlled 2. Insulator upper
3. Spring
by the track bar. A permanently lubricated and
4. Lower insulator
sealed hub and bearing assembly is bolted to 5. Track bar
each end of the axle tube, it is a non-adjustable
unit which must be replaced as an assembly if
defective.

Coil Springs
+ SEE FIGS. 17 and 18

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

UNDERBODY POSITION LEG ON UPPER

COH. ON SPRINGS PARALLEL
** CAUTION TO AXLE ASM t TOWARDS
LH SIDE Of VEHICLE
WTTWN LI4ITS SHOWN
The coil springs are under a INSULATOR
considerable amount of tension. Be SPRING
very careful when removing or
installing them; they can exert
enough force to cause very serious
Injuries.

1. Raise and support the car on a hoist. Do

not use twin-post hoist The swing arc of the axle
may cause it to slip from the hoist when the bolts
are removed, if a suitable hoist is not available,
raise and support the car on jackstands, and use
a jack under the axle.
2. Support the axle with a jack that can be
raised and lowered. FRONT

3. Remove the brake hose attaching brackets

FIG.18 Rear spring installation
(right and left), allowing the hoses to hang freely.
Do not disconnect the hoses.
4. Remove the track bar attaching bolts from 2. Remove the nut and bolt from both the axle
to 44 ft. ibs. (60 Nm). Install the brake line
the rear axle. and body attachments and remove the bar.
brackets. Tighten to 8 ft. Ibs. (11 Nm).
5. Remove both shock absorber lower 3. To install: Position the track bar at the axle
attaching bolts from the axle. mounting bracket and loosely install the bolt and
6. Lower the axle. Remove the coil spring
and insulator.
Track Bar nut.
4. Place the other end of the track bar into the
7. To install, position the spring and insulator body reinforcement and install the bolt and nut.
on the axle. The leg on the upper coil of the Torque the nut at the axle bracket to 44 ft. Ibs.
spring must be parallel to the axle, facing the left (60 Nm). Torque the nut at the body
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
hand side of the car. reinforcement to 35 ft. Ibs. (47 Nm),
8. Install the shock absorber bolts. Tighten to 5. Remove the rear axle support and lower
43 ft. lbs. (58 Nm) for 1982-84 or 35 ft. lbs. (47 1. Raise the vehicle on a hoist and support the vehicle.
Nm) for 1985-92. Install the track bar, tightening the rear axle.
8-12 SUSPENSION AND STEERING

[7] REINFORCEMENT
(7] CONTROL ARM BRACKET
fil CONTROL ARM
[71 38 Nm (28 LB. FT.)
[7] 115 N m (85 LB. FT.)
[7] AXLE

LH. SIDE SHOWN ^

(TYPICAL BOTH SIDES)

FIG.19 Rear control arm assembly

Shock Absorbers
SHOCK TOWER, MOUNTING 7 FT. LBS. (10 NM)
BRACKET

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION RETAINER ^

GROMMET
1. Open the hatch or trunk lid, remove the
trim cover if present, and remove the upper
shock absorber nut.
2. Raise and support the car at a convenient
working height if you desire. It is not necessary FRONT RETAINER.
to remove the weight of the car from the shock SUPER LIFT SHOCK
absorbers, however, so you can leave the car on SHOCKS ONLY
the ground if you prefer. VIEW A
3. If the car is equipped with superlift shock
TYPICAL BOTH SIDES
absorbers, disconnect the air line.
4. Remove the lower attaching bolt and
remove the shock. FIG.20 Rear shock absorber assembly
5. If new shock absorbers are being installed,
repeatedly compress them while inverted and
extend them in their normal upright position. This
will purge them of air. If there is no sign of excessive leakage (a
TESTING
6. Install the shocks in the reverse order of small amount of weeping is normal) bounce the
removal. Tighten the lower mount nut and bolt to car at one comer by pressing down on the fender
43 ft. lbs. (58 Nm) for 1982-84 or 38 ft. lbs. (51 Visually inspect the shock absorber. If there is or bumper and releasing. When you have the car
Nm) for 1985-92, the upper to 13 ft. lbs. (17 evidence of leakage and the shock absorber is bouncing as much as you can, release the fender
Nm) for 1982-83 or 28 ft. lbs. (37 Nm) for covered with oil, the shock is defective and or bumper. The car should stop bouncing after
1984-92. should be replaced. the first rebound. If the bouncing continues past
 SUSPENSION AND STEERING 8-13

the center point of the bounce more than once, 11. Remove the hub and bearing assembly
the shock absorbers are worn and should be Rear Axle - 6000 STE from the knuckle using special tool J-28733—A
replaced. or equivalent.
AWD 12. Remove the bolts and nut plate attaching
the lower strut mount to the knuckle. Scribe the
Rear Hub and Bearing position of the upper bolt prior removing.
13. Install a suitable CV-boot protector to
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION prevent damage to the boot.
14. Swing the knuckle downward and away
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION from the driveshaft
1. Raise and safely support the vehicle. 15. Remove the drive axle from the
2. Remove the tire and wheel assembly. differential using a suitable slide hammer.
1. Loosen the wheel lug nuts. Raise and 3. Disconnect the parking brake cable end To install:
support the car and remove the wheel. from the bracket. 16. Install the drive axle to the differential.
2. Remove the brake drum. Removal 4. Insert a suitable tool through the caliper Ensure positive engagement by pulling outward
procedures are covered in the next section, if into the rotor to prevent the rotor from turning. on the inner axle end. Grasp the housing only. Do
needed. 5. Remove the shaft nut and washer using not grasp and pull on the axle shaft.
special tool J-34826. Discard the shaft nut. 17. Swing the knuckle up to the lower strut
Do not hammer on the brake drum
6. Remove the anti-lock brake sensor bolt mount.
to remove; damage to the bearing
and move the sensor aside. 18. Position the nut plate and install the lower
will result.
7. Remove the 2 brake caliper bolts and strut mount bolts to the knuckle. Align the top
3. Remove the four hub and bearing retaining remove the caliper. Support the caliper using a bolt with scribe marks before tightening the
bolts and remove the assembly from the axle. length of wire. bolts. Tighten the bolts to 148 ft. lbs. (200 Nm).
4. Installation is the reverse. Hub and bearing p* Do not allow the caliper to hang 19. Remove the CV boot protector.
bolt torque is 45 ft. lbs. (60 Nm). by the brake hose unsupported. 20. Install the hub and bearing assembly to
the knuckle and axle spline.
8. Remove the rotor from the hub and bearing 21. Install the hub and bearing attaching
assembly. bolts. Tighten to 61 ft. lbs. (84 Nm).
9. Install leaf spring compression tool J- 22. Rembve the leaf spring compression
33432 or equivalent.
tool.
10. Remove the 3 bolts mounting the hub and 23. Install the rotor to hub and bearing
bearing to the knuckle. assembly.
8-14 SUSPENSION AND STEERING

,■* %>

24. Bolt
25. Parking brake cable
1. Hypoid axle assembly
assembly 26. Inner toe link
2. Halfshafl assembly assembly
3. Hex bolt 27. Tube adjuster
4. Bolt head protector assembly
5. Nut 28. Outer toe link
6. Frame assembly
7. Hex bolt 19. Insulator and pad 29. Cotter pin
8. Knuckle, brake and 13. Stabilizer bar spring assembly 30. Hex nut slotted
hub assembly beam-mtg. bracket 20. Nut 31. Washer
9. Toe link assembly 14. Bolt 21. Parking brake cable 32. Nut
10. Control arm stab. 15. Bolt assembly 33. Nut
shaft isolator 16. Jack support plate 22. Lower control arm 34. Control arm stab, bar
11. Stabilizer shaft 17. Bolt bushing mtg.-lower bracket
isolator 18. Spring retainer 23. Rear suspension 35. Control arm stab, bar
12. Stabilizer shaft bracket lower control arm mtg.-upper bracket

FIG.22 Rear axle assembly - 6000 STE AWD

 SUSPENSION AND STEERING 8-15
24. Install the brake caliper to the rotor and 26. Connect the parking brake cable end into 29. Check the rear wheel camber. Adjust as
install the retaining bolts. Tighten the bolts to 38 the bracket. necessary.
ft. lbs. (51 Nm). 27. Install the shaft washer and new torque p* If the lower strut to knuckle bolts
25. Install the anti-lock brake sensor to the prevailing nut. Hold the rotor with a suitable to are properly aligned with the scribe
knuckle and install the retaining bolt Using a non- prevent the axle from turning while tightening. marks, no camber adjustment
ferrous feeler gauge, adjust the sensor gap to Tighten to 185 ft. lbs. (260 Nm). should be necessary.
0.028 in. (0.7mm). Tighten the adjustment 28. Install the tire and wheel assembly.
30. Lower the vehicle.
screw to 19 inch lbs. (2.2 Nm).

STEERING

The A-Body cars use an aluminum-housed tie rods. The inner tie rod assemblies are adjustments are necessary or possible on the
Saginaw manual rack and pinion steering gear as lubricated for life and require no periodic system, except for periodic belt tension checks
standard equipment The pinion is supported by attention. and adjustments for the pump.
and turns in a sealed ball bearing at the top and Any service other than replacement of the
a pressed-in roller bearing at the bottom. The outer tie rods or the boots requires removal of
rack moves in bushings pressed into each end of the unit from the car. Steering Wheel
the rack housing. The optional power rack and pinion steering
Wear compensation occurs through the action gear is an integral unit, and shares most features
of an adjuster spring which forces the rack with the manual gear. A rotary control valve
against the pinion teeth. This adjuster eliminates directs the hydraulic fluid to either side of the
** CAUTION
the need for periodic pinion preload adjustments. rack piston. The integral rack piston is attached If car is equipped with an air bag,
Preload is adjustable only at overhaul. to the rack and converts the hydraulic pressure do not service steering wheel, or
The inner tie rod assemblies are both threaded into left or right linear motion. A vane-type dash components. Extreme danger
and staked to the rack. A special joint is used, constant displacement pump with integral of air bag deployment even with
allowing both rocking and rotating motion of the reservoir provides hydraulic pressure. No in-car battery removedl Serious Injury
could occur.
8-16 SUSPENSION AND STEERING
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

1. Remove the steering wheel as previously

outlined. Remove the trim cover.
2. Loosen the cover screws. Pry the cover off
with a screwdriver, and lift the cover off the
shaft.
3. Position the U-shaped lockplate
compressing tool on the end of the steering shaft
and compress the lock plate by turning the shaft
nut clockwise. Pry the wire snapring out of the
shaft groove.
4. Remove the tool and lift the lock plate off
FIG.24 Removing sport steering wheel the shaft.
5. Slip the canceling cam, upper bearing
preload spring, and thrust washer off the shaft.
6. Remove the turn signal lever. Push the
flasher knob in and unscrew it. Remove the
button retaining screw and remove the button,
spring and knob.
7. Pull the switch connector out the mast
jacket and tape the upper part to facilitate switch
removal. Attach a long piece of wire to the turn
signal switch connector. When installing the turn
signal switch, feed this wire through the column
first, and then use this wire to pull the switch
connector into position. On tilt wheels, place the
turn signal and shifter housing in low position
and remove the harness cover.
8. Remove the three switch mounting
screws. Remove the switch by pulling it straight
up while guiding the wiring harness cover
through the column.
9. Install the replacement switch by working
the connector and cover down through the
housing and under the bracket. On tilt models,
the connector is worked down through the
housing, under the bracket, and then the cover is
installed on the harness.
5. Install the wheel on the shaft aligning the 10. Install the switch mounting screws and
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION previously made marks. Tighten the nut. the connector on the mast jacket bracket. Install
6. Insert the horn wires into the canceling the column-to-dash trim plate.
cam.
(■* Disconnect the battery ground
7. Install the center trim and reconnect the
cable before removing the steering
battery cable.
wheel. When Installing a steering
wheel, always make sure that the
turn signal lever Is In the neutral
position. Turn Signal Switch
1. Remove the trim retaining screws from t SEE FIGS. 24 to 28
behind the wheel. On wheels with a center cap,
pull off the cap.
2. Lift the trim off and pull the horn wires CAUTION
from the turn signal canceling cam.
If car Is equipped with an air bag,
3. Remove the retainer and the steering
do not service steering column or
wheel nut.
dash components. Extreme danger
4. Mark the wheel-to-shaft relationship, and
of air bag deployment even with
then remove the wheel with a puller.
battery removedl Serious Injury
could occur.
 SUSPENSION AND STEERING 8-17
COVER
TO ASSEMBLE, ROTATE TO STOP
WHILE HOLDING CYLINDER

LOCK
HOUSING
CYLINDER
LOCK
RETAINING
SCREW

FIG.27 Remove these parts for access to the tum signal switch
KEY WARNING
SWITCH

HOUSING
FIG.29 Ignition lock cylinder

3. Remove the two switch screws and

remove the switch assembly.
4. Before installing, place the new switch in
Off-Unlocked position and make sure the lock
cylinder and actuating rod are in Off-Unlocked
(third detent from the top) position.
5. Install the activating rod into the switch and
assemble the switch on the column. Tighten the
mounting screws. Use only the specified screws
since overlength screws could impair the
11. Install the flasher knob and the tum signal REMOVAL & INSTALLATION collapsibility of the column.
lever.
6. Reinstall the steering column.
12. With the tum signal lever in neutral and
the flasher know out, slide the thrust washer, The switch is located inside the channel
upper bearing preload spring, and canceling cam section of the brake pedal support and is Ignition Lock Cylinder
onto the shaft. completely inaccessible without first lowering
13. Position the lock plate on the shaft and the steering column. The switch is actuated by a
press it down until a new snapring can be rod and rack assembly. A gear on the end of the
inserted in the shaft groove. Always use a new lock cylinder engages the toothed upper end of « CAUTION
snapring when assembling. the rod. If car Is equipped with an air bag,
14. Install the cover and the steering wheel. 1. Lower the steering column; be sure to
do not service steering column or
properly support it
dash components. Extreme danger
2. Put the switch in the Off-Unlocked
of air bag deployment even with
Ignition Switch position. With the cylinder removed, the rod is in
battery removed! Serious injury
Lock when it is in the next to the uppermost
could occur.
} SEE FIGS. 26 to 30 detent. Off-Unlocked is two detents from the top.

CAUTION
If car is equipped with an air bag,
do not service steering column or
dash components. Extreme danger
of air bag deployment even with
battery removed! Serious Injury
could occur.
8-18 SUSPENSION AND STEERING
RETAINING RING
COVER
TURN SIGNAL SWITCH ASSY. NUT
UPPER BEARING INNER RACE
SWITCH ACTUATOR ARM
KEY WARNING SWITCH UPPER BEARING SPRING

KEY WARNING SWITCH RETAINING CLIP

RETAINER
BEARING SCREW LOCK PLATE
LOCK BOLlT LOCK CYLINDER \ TURN SIGNAL
\ CANCELUNG CAM
SPRING SCREWS (3)

HOUSING
ACTUATOR
DRIVESHAFT
SHIELD RACE AND UPPER SHAFT
SPRING
CENTERING SPHERE
PRELOAD SPRING
SPRING WIRE PROTECTOR
PIN pfvOT AND SWITCH ASSY.

^lySPRING RETAINER
CAP

SPRING
SCREW

RACK
V SCREWS (2) fPIN
STEERING SHAFT-

SCREWS (4)
STUD-

X*
IGNITION SWITCH
JACKET
SPRING
ftRING
IGNITION SWITCH ACTUATOR ROD
THRUST WASHER
LOCK PLATE

WAVE WASHER

BOWL
SHROUD DIMMER SWITCH

r
SCREWS (2)
ACTUATOR ROD

BEARING RETAINER
ADAPTER AND BEARING ASSY.

FIG.31 Steering column assembly

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 6. Install the screw. Tighten the screw to 14 Once the steering column Is
inch lb. for adjustable columns and 25 inch lb. removed from the car, the column
for standard columns. is extremely susceptible to
1. Place the lock in the Run position. damage. Dropping the column
2. Remove the lock plate, turn signal switch assembly on Its end could collapse
and buzzer switch. Steering Column the steering shaft or loosen the
3. Remove the screw and lock cylinder. plastic injections which maintain
column rigidity. Leaning on the
column assembly could cause the
» CAUTION ** CAUTION jacket to bend or deform. Any of the
above damage could impair the
If the screw is dropped on removal, If car Is equipped with an air bag,
column’s collapsible design. If It Is
it could fall Into the column, do not service steering column or
necessary to remove the steering
requiring complete disassembly to dash components. Extreme danger
wheel, use a standard wheel puller.
retrieve the screw. of air bag deployment even with
Under no condition should the end
battery removed! Serious Injury
of the shaft be hammered upon, as
could occur.
hammering could loosen the
4. Rotate the cylinder clockwise to align
plastic Injection which maintains
cylinder key with the keyway in the housing.
column rigidity.
5. Push the lock all the way in.
 SUSPENSION AND STEERING 8-19
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
Steering Linkage
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. t SEE FIGS. 32 and 33
2. If column repairs are to be made, remove
the steering wheel. REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
3. Remove the nuts and bolts attaching the
flexible coupling to the bottom of the steering
column. Remove the safety strap and bolt if Tie Rod Ends
equipped. 1. Loosen the jam nut on the steering rack
4. Remove the steering column trim shrouds (inner tie rod).
and column covers. 2. Remove the tie rod end nut. Separate the
5. Disconnect all wiring harness connectors. tie rod end from the steering knuckle using a
Remove the dust boot mounting screws and puller tool J-6627 or BT—7101.
column mounting bracket bolts. 3. Unscrew the tie rod end, counting the
6. Lower the column to clear the mounting number of turns.
bracket and carefully remove from the car. 4. To install, screw the tie rod end onto the
To Install:
Power Rack and Pinion
steering rack (inner tie rod) the same number of
7. Install the column into the vehicle and raise turns as counted for removal. This will give Steering Gear
it into the mounting bracket. approximately correct toe.
8. Loosely install the column mounting bolts 5. Install the tie rod end into the knuckle.
and connect all wiring harness connectors. , Install the nut and tighten to 40 ft lbs. (1982-84) REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
9. Tighten the column mounting bolts and or 30 ft lbs. (1985-92).
install the trim shrouds and column covers. 6. If the toe must be adjusted, use pliers to
10. Install and tighten the nuts and bolts in 1. Raise the intermediate shaft seal and
expand the boot clamp. Turn the Inner tie rod to
the flexible coupling at the bottom of the steering remove intermediate shaft-to-stub shaft pinch
adjust. Replace the clamp.
shaft. bolt.
7. Tighten the jam nut to 44 ft. lbs.
11. Install the steering wheel and connect the 2. If equipped with power steering, remove
battery cable. the air cleaner and disconnect the pressure
hoses from the steering gear.

RETURN BOOT
PRESSURE PIPE HOSE

SCREWDRIVEF

STEERING
KNUCKLE

FIG.33 Power rack assembly

8-20 SUSPENSION AND STEERING
3. Raise and support the vehicle on 13. Install the bracket bolt to the Position the disconnected lines in a raised
jackstands, then remove both front wheel and crossmember under the air management pipe. position to prevent leakage.
tire assemblies. 14. Install the tie rod ends to the steering 2. Remove the pump belt.
4. Remove the cotter pins and nuts from both knuckles, install the retaining nuts and insert new 3. On the four cylinder, remove the radiator
tie rod ends. Using tool J—6627 or BT-7101, cotter pins. hose clamp bolt. On the 6-2.8L, disconnect the
press the tie rod ends from the steering knuckle. 15. Install the front wheels and lower the negative battery cable, disconnect the electrical
5. If equipped with an Air Management pipe, vehicle. connector at the blower motor, drain the cooling
remove the bracket bolt from the crossmember. 16. Install the high pressure hoses to the system, and remove the heater hose at the water
6. Remove the 2 rear cradle mounting bolts steering gear and install the air cleaner. pump. On the 6-3.0L, remove the alternator. On
and lower the rear of the cradle about 4-5 in. 17. Install the intermediate shaft seal and the any model if access appears easier if removing
(102-127mm). intermediate shaft-to-stub shaft pinch bolt. a component such as the alternator, then that
If equipped with power steering, should be considered.
4. Loosen the retaining bolts and any braces,
❖❖ WARNING reconnect the pressure hoses and
and remove the pump.
bleed the system.
If the rear of the cradle Is lowered 5. Install the pump on the engine with the
to far, the engine components retaining bolts handtight.
6. Connect and tighten the hose fittings.
nearest the cowl may be damaged. Power Steering Pump 7. Refill the pump with fluid and bleed the
system.
7. If equipped, remove the rack and pinion 8. Install the pump belt on the pulley and
heat shield. REMOVAL & INSTALLATION adjust the tension.
8. Remove the rack and pinion mounting 9. Remove the tape and install the power
bolts, then the gear assembly through the left steering pump hoses.
wheel opening.
Gasoline Engines Diesel Engine
9. To install:
10. Install the gear assembly through the left All models use integral rack and pinion power 1. Remove the drive belt.
wheel opening and install the mounting bolts. steering. A pump delivers hydraulic pressure 2. Siphon the fluid from the power steering
11. Install the heat shield. through two hoses to the steering gear itself. reservoir.
12. Raise the rear of the cradle and install the 1. Remove the hoses at the pump and tape
mounting bolts. the openings shut to prevent contamination.

SUPPORT

28 N m
(20 FT. LBS.)

55 N m
(40 FT. LBS.)

POWER STEERING
PUMP ASSEMBLY

PULLEY

55 N m 55 N m (40 FT. LBS.)

(40 FT. LBS.) BRACE

FIG.34 Power steering pump assembly - V6 shown

 SUSPENSION AND STEERING 8-21

|T| PULLEY

0 POWER STEERING
PUMP
0 TENSIONER

0 26 N-m (19 LB. FT.)

FIG.35 Power steering pump assembly - 2.5L shown

|T1 BELT TENSIONER ASM.

\7] POWER STEERING PUMP

[T| BOLT/SCREW

|~4~1 BELT TENSIONER BRACE

f~5~| PULLEY
[T| ACCESSORY DRIVE BELT
[7] BOLT 27 N-m (20 LB. FT.)

FIG.36 Power steering pump assembly - 3.3L shown

On some models, It may be 7. To install, reverse steps 1 through 6. minutes, then crank the engine for about two
necessary to remove the right front Torque the brace nuts to 40 ft. lbs.; the pump seconds. Refill reservoir if necessary.
wheel. bolt to 40 ft. lbs. 3. Repeat Steps 1 and 2 above until the fluid
3. Disconnect the hoses from the pump. level remains constant after cranking the engine.
4. Remove the three bolts from the front of 4. Raise the front of the car until the wheels
the pump through the access holes in the pulley. BLEEDING are off the ground, then start the engine. Increase
5. Remove the two nuts holding the lower the engine speed to about 1,500 rpm.
brace to the engine. Remove the brace. 1. Fill the fluid reservoir. 5. Turn the wheels lightly against the stops to
6. Remove the pump. 2. Let the fluid stand undisturbed for two the left and right, checking the fluid level and
refilling if necessary.
8-22 SUSPENSION AND STEERING
Troubleshooting the Turn Signal Switch
Problem Cause Solution

Turn signal will not cancel • Loose switch mounting screws • Tighten screws
• Switch or anchor bosses broken • Replace switch
• Broken, missing or out of position • Reposition springs or replace
detent, or cancelling spring switch as required

Turn signal difficult to operate • Turn signal lever loose • Tighten mounting screws
• Switch yoke broken or distorted • Replace switch
• Loose or misplaced springs • Reposition springs or replace
switch
• Foreign parts and/or materials in • Remove foreign parts and/or
switch material
• Switch mounted loosely • Tighten mounting screws
Turn signal will not indicate lane • Broken lane change pressure pad • Replace switch
change or spring hanger
• Broken, missing or misplaced lane • Replace or reposition as required
change spring
• Jammed wires • Loosen mounting screws, reposi¬
tion wires and retighten screws
Turn signal will not stay in turn • Foreign material or loose parts • Remove material and/or parts
position impeding movement of switch
yoke
• Defective switch • Replace switch
Hazard switch cannot be pulled out • Foreign material between hazard • Remove foreign material. No for¬
support cancelling leg and yoke eign material impeding function
of hazard switch—replace turn
signal switch.
No turn signal lights • Inoperative turn signal flasher • Replace turn signal flasher
• Defective or blown fuse • Replace fuse
• Loose chassis to column harness • Connect securely
connector
• Disconnect column to chassis con¬ • Replace signal switch
nector. Connect new switch to
chassis and operate switch by
hand.
If vehicle lights now operate
normally, signal switch is
inoperative
• If vehicle lights do not operate, • Repair chassis wiring as required
check chassis wiring for opens,
grounds, etc.
 SUSPENSION AND STEERING 8-23
Troubleshooting the Turn Signal Switch (cont.)
Problem Cause Solution

Instrument panel turn indicator lights • Burned out or damaged front or • Replace bulb
on but not flashing rear turn signal bulb
• If vehicle lights do not operate, • Repair chassis wiring as required
check light sockets for high
resistance connections, the
chassis wiring for opens,
grounds, etc.
• Inoperative flasher • Replace flasher
• Loose chassis to column harness • Connect securely
connection
• Inoperative turn signal switch • Replace turn signal switch
• To determine if turn signal switch • Replace turn signal switch
is defective, substitute new
switch into circuit and operate
switch by hand. If the vehicle’s
lights operate normally, signal
switch is inoperative.
Stop light not on when turn indicated • Loose column to chassis connec¬ • Connect securely
tion
• Disconnect column to chassis con¬ • Replace signal switch
nector. Connect new switch into
system without removing old.
Stop light not on when turn indicated Operate switch by hand. If brake
(cont.) lights work with switch in the
turn position, signal switch is de¬
fective.
• If brake lights do not work, check • Repair connector to stop light cir¬
connector to stop light sockets cuits using service manual as
for grounds, opens, etc. guide
Turn indicator panel lights not • Burned out bulbs • Replace bulbs
flashing • High resistance to ground at bulb • Replace socket
socket
• Opens, ground in wiring harness • Locate and repair as required
from front turn signal bulb socket
to indicator lights
Turn signal lights flash very slowly • High resistance ground at light • Repair high resistance grounds at
sockets light sockets
• Incorrect capacity turn signal • Replace turn signal flasher or bulb
flasher or bulb
• If flashing rate is still extremely • Locate and repair as required
slow, check chassis wiring har¬
ness from the connector to light
sockets for high resistance
• Loose chassis to column harness • Connect securely
connection
• Disconnect column to chassis con¬ • Replace turn signal switch
nector. Connect new switch into
system without removing old.
Operate switch by hand. If flash¬
ing occurs at normal rate, the
signal switch is defective.
8-24 SUSPENSION AND STEERING
Troubleshooting the Turn Signal Switch (cont.)
Problem Cause Solution

Hazard signal lights will not flash— • Blow fuse • Replace fuse
turn signal functions normally • Inoperative hazard warning flasher • Replace hazard warning flasher in
fuse panel
• Loose chassis-to-column harness • Conect securely
connection
• Disconnect column to chassis con¬ • Replace turn signal switch
nector. Connect new switch into
system without removing old.
Depress the hazard warning
lights. If they now work normally,
turn signal switch is defective.
• If lights do not flash, check wiring • Repair or replace brown wire or
harness “K” lead for open connector as required
between hazard flasher and
connector. If open, fuse block is
defective

Troubleshooting the Power Steering Pump

Problem Cause Solution

Chirp noise in steering pump • Loose belt • Adjust belt tension to specification
Belt squeal (particularly noticeable at • Loose belt • Adjust belt tension to specification
full wheel travel and stand still
parking)
Growl noise in steering pump • Excessive back pressure in hoses • Locate restriction and correct.
or steering gear caused by Replace part if necessary.
restriction
Growl noise in steering pump (partic¬ • Scored pressure plates, thrust • Replace parts and flush system
ularly noticeable at stand still park¬ plate or rotor
ing) • Extreme wear of cam ring • Replace parts
Groan noise in steering pump • Low oil level • Fill reservoir to proper level
• Air in the oil. Poor pressure hose • Tighten connector to specified
connection. torque. Bleed system by operat¬
ing steering from right to left—
full turn.
Rattle noise in steering pump • Vanes not installed properly • Install properly
• Vanes sticking in rotor slots • Free up by removing burrs,
varnish, or dirt
Swish noise in steering pump • Defective flow control valve • Replace part
Whine noise in steering pump • Pump shaft bearing scored • Replace housing and shaft. Flush
system.
Low pump pressure • Flow control valve stuck or inoper¬ • Remove burrs or dirt or replace.
ative Flush system.
• Pressure plate not flat against cam • Correct
ring
 SUSPENSION AND STEERING 8-25
Troubleshooting the Power Steering Pump (cont.)
Problem Cause Solution

Hard steering or lack of assist • Loose pump belt • Adjust belt tension to specification
• Low oil level in reservoir • Fill to proper level. If excessively
NOTE: Low oil level will also result low, check all lines and joints for
in excessive pump noise evidence of external leakage.
Tighten loose connectors.
• Steering gear to column misalign¬ • Align steering column
ment
• Lower coupling flange rubbing • Loosen pinch bolt and assemble
against steering gear adjuster properly
plug
• Tires not properly inflated • Inflate to recommended pressure
Foaming milky power steering fluid, • Air in the fluid, and loss of fluid due • Check for leaks and correct. Bleed
low fluid level and possible low to internal pump leakage caus¬ system. Extremely cold temper¬
pressure ing overflow atures will cause system aeria-
tion should the oil level be low. If
oil level is correct and pump still
foams, remove pump from vehi¬
cle and separate reservoir from
body. Check welsh plug and
body for cracks. If plug is loose
or body is cracked, replace
body.
Momentary increase in effort when • Low oil level in pump • Add power steering fluid as
turning wheel fast to right or left required
• Pump belt slipping • Tighten or replace belt
• High internal leakage • Check pump pressure. (See pres¬
sure test)
Steering wheel surges or jerks when • Low oil level • Fill as required
turning with engine running espe¬ • Loose pump belt • Adjust tension to specification
cially during parking • Steering linkage hitting engine oil • Correct clearance
pan at full turn
• Insufficient pump pressure • Check pump pressure. (See pres¬
sure test). Replace flow control
valve if defective.
Steering wheel surges or jerks when • Sticking flow control valve • Inspect for varnish or damage,
turning with engine running espe¬ replace if necessary
cially during parking (cont.)
Excessive wheel kickback or loose • Air in system • Add oil to pump reservoir and
steering bleed by operating steering.
Check hose connectors for
proper torque and adjust as
required.

Low pump pressure • Extreme wear of cam ring • Replace parts. Flush system.
• Scored pressure plate, thrust plate, • Replace parts. Flush system.
or rotor
• Vanes not installed properly • Install properly
• Vanes sticking in rotor slots • Freeup by removing burrs, varnish,
or dirt
• Cracked or broken thrust or pres¬ • Replace part
sure plate
8-26 SUSPENSION AND STEERING

TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
Component English Metric
Brake line brackets: 8 ft. lbs. 11 Nm
Caliper retaining bolts: 38 ft. lbs. 51 Nm
Front crossmember-to-body bolts: 103 ft. lbs. 140 Nm
Halfshaft end nut: 184-192 ft. lbs. 250-260 Nm
Lower ball pinch bolt: 33 ft. lbs. 45 Nm
Lower control arm bolts: 61 ft. lbs. 83 Nm
MacPherson strut shaft nut: 65 ft. lbs. 85 Nm
MacPherson strut to fender: 18 ft. lbs. 24 Nm
MacPherson strut to knuckle: 140 ft. lbs. 190 Nm
Rear Shock mount to frame: 16 ft. lbs. 22 Nm
Rear Shock to lower mount: 44 ft. lbs. 59 Nm
Rear Shock to upper mount: 16 ft. lbs. 22 Nm
Rear axle top bolt 6000 AWD: 148 ft. lbs. 200 Nm
Rear control arm-to-bracket: 84 ft. lbs. 115 Nm
Rear control bracket-to-underbody: 28 ft. lbs. 38 Nm
Rear hub and bearing assembly: 44 ft. IbS. 60 Nm
Rear jack pad mounting bolts: 18 ft. lbs. 25 Nm
Rear track bar at brace or underbody: 35 ft. lbs. 47 Nm
Spring retention plate bolts: 15 ft. Ibs. 20 Nm
Steering column mounting bolts: 18 ft. Ibs. 25 Nm
Steering rack mounting bolts: 59 ft. Ibs. 80 Nm
Steering wheel retaining nut: 30 ft. Ibs. 41 Nm
Tie rod adjustment jam nut: 45 ft. Ibs. 60 Nm
Tie rod nut: 43 ft. Ibs. 58 Nm
Wheel nuts: 100 ft. Ibs. 140 Nm
ANTI-LOCK BRAKE SYSTEM
Bleeding 9-63
Control valve 9-60
Diagnosis 9-28
Front wheel speed sensor 9-58
Hydraulic unit 9-59
Pump & motor 9-62
Rear wheel speed sensor 9-59
System operation 9-26
BRAKES
Adjustments
Drum brakes 9-3
Bleeding 9-7
Brake light switch 9-4
DISC BRAKES (FRONT)
Caliper 9-10
Operating principles 9-2
Pads 9-9
Rotor (Disc) 9-14
DRUM BRAKES
Adjustment 9-3
Drum 9-15
Operating principles 9-3
Shoes 9-16
Wheel cylinder 9-23 Anti-Lock Brake System 9-26
HOSES AND LINES 9-7
Brake Specifications 9-64
HYDRO-BOOST SYSTEM 9-7
Disc Brakes 9-9
MASTER CYLINDER 9-4
PARKING BRAKE Drum Brakes 9-15
Adjustment 9-25 Parking Brake 9-24
Removal and installation 9-24 Troubleshooting 9-65
POWER BOOSTER
Operating principles 9-3
Removal and installation 9-6
PROPORTIONING VALVE 9-7
SPECIFICATIONS 9-64
TROUBLESHOOTING 9-65
9-2 BRAKES
BRAKE SYSTEM OPERATION

application of the brake pedal, fluid trapped in pressure from traveling to the disc brakes on the
front of the master cylinder pistons is forced front wheels until the brake shoes on the rear
UNDERSTANDING THE wheels have contacted the drums, ensuring that
through the lines to the slave cylinders. Here, it
BRAKE SYSTEM forces the pistons outward, in the case of drum the front brakes will never be used alone. The
brakes, and inward toward the disc, in the case proportioning valve throttles the pressure to the
of disc brakes. The motion of the pistons is rear brakes so as to avoid rear wheel lock-up
opposed by return springs mounted outside the during very hard braking.
Hydraulic System cylinders in drum brakes. These valves may be tested by removing the
Upon release of the brake pedal, a spring lines to the front and rear brake systems and
A hydraulic system is used to actuate the located inside the master cylinder immediately installing special brake pressure testing gauge.
brakes. The system transports the power returns the master cylinder pistons to the normal Front and rear system pressures are then
required to force the frictional surfaces of the position. The pistons contain check valves and compared as the pedal is gradually depressed.
braking system together from the pedal to the the master cylinder has compensating ports Specifications vaiy with the manufacturer and
individual braking units at each wheel. A drilled in it. These are uncovered as the pistons design of the brake systems.
hydraulic system is used for three reasons. First, reach their normal position. The piston check Brake warning lights may be tested by
fluid under pressure can be carried to all parts of valves allow fluid to flow toward the wheel depressing the brake pedal and holding it while
the automobile by small hoses, some of which cylinders or calipers as the master cylinder opening one of the wheel cylinder bleeder
are flexible, without taking up a significant pistons withdraw. Then, as the return springs screws. If this does not cause the light to go on,
amount of room or posing routine problems. force the shoes into the released position, the substitute a new lamp, make continuity checks,
Second, liquid is non-compressible; a hydraulic excess fluid returns to the master cylinder fluid and finally, replace the switch as necessary.
system can transport force without modifying or reservoir through the compensating ports. It is The hydraulic system may be checked for
reducing that force. Third, a great mechanical during the time the pedal is in the released leaks by applying pressure to the pedal gradually
advantage can be given to the brake pedal end of position that any fluid that has leaked out of the and steadily. If the pedal sinks very slowly to the
the system, and the foot pressure required to system will be replaced through the floor, the system has a leak. This is not to be
actuate the brakes can be reduced by making the compensating ports. confused with a springy or spongy feel due to
surface area of the master cylinder pistons Dual circuit master cylinders employ two the compression of air within the lines. If the
smaller than that of any of the pistons in the pistons, located one behind the other, in the system leaks, there will be a gradual change in
wheel cylinders or calipers. same cylinder. The primary piston is actuated by the position of the pedal with a constant
The master cylinder consists of a fluid fluid trapped between the two pistons. If a leak pressure.
reservoir, a double cylinder and a piston develops in front of the secondary piston, it Check for leaks along all lines and at wheel
assembly. Double type master cylinders are moves forward until it bottoms against the front cylinder. If no external leaks are apparent, the
designed to separate the front and rear braking of the master cylinder and the fluid trapped problem is inside the master cylinder.
systems hydraulically in case of a leak. between the pistons will operate the rear brakes.
Steel lines carry the brake fluid to a point on If the rear brakes develop a leak, the primary
the vehicle’s frame near each of the vehicle’s piston will move forward until direct contact with Disc Brakes
wheels. The fluid is then carried to the slave the secondary piston takes place and it will force
cylinder by flexible tubes in order to allow for the secondary piston to actuate the front brakes. Instead of the traditional expanding brakes
suspension and steering movements. In either case, the brake pedal moves farther that press outward against a circular drum, disc
In drum brake systems, the slave cylinders when the brakes are applied and less braking brake systems utilize a cast iron disc with brake
are called wheel cylinders. Each wheel cylinder power is available. pads positioned on either side of it. Braking
contains two pistons, one at either end, which All dual circuit systems use a distributor effect is achieved in a manner similar to the way
push outward in opposite directions. switch to warn the driver when only half of the you would squeeze a spinning phonograph
In disc brake systems, the slave cylinders are brake system is operational. This switch is record between your fingers. The disc (rotor) is
part of the calipers. One large cylinder is used to located in a valve body which is mounted on the a one-piece casting with cooling fins between
force the brake pads against the disc. All slave master cylinder. A hydraulic piston receives the two braking surfaces. This enables air to
cylinder pistons employ some type of seal, pressure from both circuits, each circuit’s circulate between the braking surfaces making
usually made of mbber, to minimize the leakage pressure being applied to one end of the piston. them less sensitive to heat buildup and more
of fluid around the piston. A rubber dust boot When the pressures are in balance, the piston resistant to fade. Dirt and water do not affect
seals the outer end of the cylinder against dust remains stationary. When one circuit has a leak, braking action since contaminants are thrown off
and dirt. The boot fits around the outer end of the however, the greater pressure in that circuit by the centrifugal action of the rotor or scraped
piston on disc brake calipers and around the during application of the brakes will push the off by the pads. Also, the equal clamp action of
brake actuating rod on wheel cylinders. piston to one side, closing the distributor switch the two brake pads tends to ensure uniform,
The hydraulic system operates as follows: and activating the brake warning light. straightline stops. All disc brakes are self-
When at rest, the entire system, from the pistons In disc brake systems, this valve body also adjusting.
in the master cylinder to those in the wheel contains a metering valve and, in some cases, a
cylinders or calipers, is full of brake fluid. Upon proportioning valve. The metering valve keeps
 BRAKES 9-3
to power brakes and should be checked if the
Drum Brakes Power Brake Boosters following tests do not reveal the problem.
The hydraulic and mechanical problems that
Drum brakes employ two brake shoes Power brakes operate just as standard brake
apply to conventional brake systems also apply
mounted on a stationary backing plate. These systems except in the actuation of the master
to power brakes and should be checked if the
shoes are positioned inside a circular cast iron cylinder pistons. A vacuum diaphragm is located
on the front of the master cylinder and assists following tests do not reveal the problem.
drum which rotates with the wheel assembly.
The shoes are held in place by springs; this the driver in applying the brakes, reducing both Test for a system vacuum leak as described
allows them to slide toward the drums (when the effort and travel he must put into moving the below:
they are applied) while keeping the linings and brake pedal. 1. Operate the engine at idle with the
drums in alignment. The shoes are actuated by a The vacuum diaphragm housing is connected transaxle in Neutral without touching the brake
wheel cylinder which is mounted at the top of the to the intake manifold by a vacuum hose. A pedal for at least one minute.
backing plate. When the brakes are applied, check valve is placed at the point where the hose 2. Turn off the engine and wait one minute.
hydraulic pressure forces the wheel cylinder’s enters the diaphragm housing, so that during 3. Test for the presence of assist vacuum by
two actuating links outward. Since these links periods of low manifold vacuum brake assist depressing the brake pedal and releasing it
bear directly against the top of the brake shoes, vacuum will not be lost. several times. Light application will produce less
the tops of the shoes are then forced outward Depressing the brake pedal closes off the and less pedal travel, if vacuum was present. If
against the inner side of the drum. This action vacuum source and allows atmospheric there is no vacuum air is leaking into the system.
forces the bottoms of the two shoes to contact pressure to enter on one side of the diaphragm. Test for system operation as follows:
the brake dmm by rotating the entire assembly This causes the master cylinder pistons to move 1. Pump the brake pedal (with engine off)
slightly (known as servo action). When pressure and apply the brakes. When the brake pedal is until the supply vacuum is entirely gone.
within the wheel cylinder is relaxed, return released, vacuum is applied to both sides of the 2. Put a light, steady pressure on the pedal.
springs pull the shoes back away from the dmm. diaphragm, the return springs return the 3. Start the engine and operate it at idle with
The dmm brakes are designed to self-adjust diaphragm and master cylinder pistons to the the transaxle in Neutral. If the system is
during application when the car is moving in released position. If the vacuum fails, the brake operating, the brake pedal should fall toward the
reverse. This motion causes both shoes to rotate pedal rod will butt against the end of the master floor if constant pressure is maintained on the
very slightly with the dmm, rocking an adjusting cylinder actuating rod and direct mechanical pedal. Power brake systems may be tested for
lever, thereby causing rotation of the adjusting application will occur as the pedal is depressed. hydraulic leaks just as ordinary systems are
screw by means of an actuating lever. The hydraulic and mechanical problems that tested, except that the engine should be idling
apply to conventional brake systems also apply with the transaxle in neutral throughout the test.

THE BRAKING SYSTEM

The A-Body cars have a diagonally split units. A dual piston wheel cylinder mounted to DRUM BRAKES
hydraulic system. This differs from conventional the top of the backing plate, actuates both brake
practice in that the left front and right rear brakes shoes. Wheel cylinder force to the shoes is
are on one hydraulic circuit, and the right front supplemented by the tendency of the shoes to The drum brakes are designed to self-adjust
and left rear are on the other. wrap into the drum (servo action). An actuating when applied with the car moving in reverse,
A diagonally split system necessitates the use link, pivot and lever serve to automatically however, they can also be adjusted manually.
of a special master cylinder design. The A-Body engage the adjuster as the brakes are applied This manual adjustment should also be
master cylinder incorporates the functions of a when the car is moving in reverse. Provisions for performed whenever the linings are replaced.
standard tandem master cylinder, plus a warning manual adjustment are also provided. The rear Never adjust the parking brake
light switch and proportioning valves. brakes also serve as the parking brakes; linkage cable, until after the regular
Additionally, the master cylinder is designed with is mechanical. Vacuum boost is an option. The service brakes have been adjusted.
a quick take-up feature which provides a large booster is a conventional tandem vacuum unit.
1. Use a punch to knock out the stamped
volume of fluid to the brakes at low pressure
area on the brake dmm. If this is done with the
when the brakes are initially applied. The lower
dmm installed on the car, the dmm must then be
pressure fluid acts to quickly fill the large Adjustments removed to clean out all metal pieces. After
displacement requirements of the system.
adjustments are complete, obtain a hole cover
The front disc brakes are single piston sliding
from your dealer (Part no. 4874119 or the
caliper units. Fluid pressure acts equally against
equivalent) to present entry of dirt and water into
the piston and the bottom of the piston bore in DISC BRAKES
the brakes.
the caliper. This forces the piston outward until
2. Use an adjusting tool especially made for
the pad contacts the caliper to slide over,
The front disc brakes are self-adjusting. No the purpose to turn the brake adjusting screw
carrying the other pad into contact with the other
adjustments are either necessary or possible. star wheel.
side of the rotor. The disc brakes are self-
adjusting.
Rear drum brakes are conventional duo-servo
9-4 BRAKES
»» Keep turning the drum as you are brake pedal inside the car. The pushrod is
adjusting It or you may over tighten Master Cylinder retained to the brake pedal by a clip; there is a
the shoes against the drum. It Is washer under the clip, and a spring washer on
extremely difficult to back the the other side of the pushrod.
adjustment off If over tighten. 2. Unplug the electrical connector from the
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
3. Expand the shoes until there is a slight master cylinder.
drag. No tighter than if the drum can just barely 3. Place a number of cloths or a container
be turned by hand. 1. If your car does not have power brakes, under the master cylinder to catch the brake
3. Back off the adjusting screw a few disconnect the master cylinder pushrod at the fluid. Disconnect the brake tubes from the
notches, if too tight. If the shoes still are
dragging lightly, back off the adjusting screw one
or two additional notches. If the brakes still drag,
the parking brake adjustment is incorrect or the
parking brake is applied. Fix and start over.
4. Install the hole cover into the drum.
5. Check the parking brake adjustment.
On some models, no marked area or stamped
area is present on the drum. In this case, a hole
must be drilled in the backing plate:
1. All backing plates have two round flat
areas in the lower half through which the parking
brake cable is installed. Drill a V2 in. (13mm)
hole into the round flat area on the backing plate
opposite the parking brake cable. This will allow
access to the star wheel.
2. After drilling the hole, remove the drum
and remove all metal particles. Install a hole plug
(Part no. 4874119 or the equivalent) to prevent
the entry of water or dirt.
Another option on these models is simply to
remove the drum, adjust the shoe and try the
drum on. If the drum fit is still loose adjust the
shoes out slightly more and repeat. Using this
method you’ll find you need to make the drum a
very sung fit, due to a ridge that forms on the
outer edge of the dmm.

Brake Light Switch

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

1. Disconnect the wiring connectors from the

brake light switch.
2. Unscrew the brake light switch from the
tubular retaining clip.
3. Insert the new switch into the retainer until
the switch body seats against the clip.
4. Connect the wiring connectors.
5. Pull the brake pedal rearward against the
internal pedal stop. The switch will be moved in
the tubular clip providing proper adjustment.
 BRAKES 9-5
master cylinder; use a flare nut wrench if one is rebuilt master cylinder from your dealer or parts be replaced as an assembly if the seals are bad.
available. Tape over the open ends of the tubes. supply house. The small difference in price The secondary piston seals are replaceable.
between a rebuilding kit and a rebuilt part usually Install these new seals with the lips facing
Brake fluid eats paint. Wipe up
makes it more economical, in terms of time and outwards.
any spilled fluid Immediately, then
flush the area with clean water. work, to buy the rebuilt part. 7. Inspect the bore for corrosion. If any
1. Remove the master cylinder. corrosion is evident, the master cylinder body
4. Remove the two nuts attaching the master must be replaced. Do not attempt to polish the
2. Remove the reservoir cover and drain the
cylinder to the booster or firewall. fluid. bore with crocus cloth, sandpaper or anything
5. Remove the master cylinder. else. The body is aluminum; polishing the bore
3. Remove the pushrod and the rubber boot
6. To install, attach th& master cylinder to the on non-power models. won’t work.
firewall or the booster with the nuts. Torque to 4. Unbolt the proportioners and the failure 8. To remove the failure warning switch
29 ft. lbs. (40 Nm) for 1982-84 or 22 ft. lbs. (27 warning switch from the side of the master piston assembly, remove the alien head plug
Nm) for 1985-88. from the end of the bore and withdraw the
cylinder body. Discard the O-rings found under
7. Reconnect the pushrod to the brake pedal the proportioners. Use new ones on installation. assembly with a pair of needlenose pliers. The
with non-power brakes. switch piston assembly seals are replaceable.
There may or may not be an O-ring under the
8. Remove the tape from the lines and original equipment failure warning switch. If 9. The reservoir can be removed from the
connect to the master cylinder. Torque to 12 ft. there is, discard it. In either case, use a new 0- master cylinder if necessary. Clamp the body in
lbs. (17 Nm) for 1982-84 or 18 ft. lbs. (24 Nm) ring upon assembly. a vise by its mounting flange. Use a pry bar to
for 1985-88. Connect the electrical lead. 5. Clamp the master cylinder body in a vise, remove the reservoir. If the reservoir is removed,
9. Bleed the brakes. taking care not to crush it. Depress the primary remove the reservoir grommets and discard
piston with a wooden dowel and remove the lock them. The quick take-up valves under the
ring with a pair of snapring pliers. grommets are accessible after the retaining
OVERHAUL 6. The primary and secondary pistons can be snaprings are removed. Use snapring pliers; no
removed by applying compressed air into one of other tool will work.
the outlets at the end of the cylinder and plugging 10. Clean all parts in denatured alcohol and
This is a tedious, time consuming job. You allow to air dry. Do not use anything else to clean
the other three outlets. The primary piston must
can save yourself a lot of trouble by buying a

RESERVOIR COVER

RESERVOIR DIAPHRAGM

RETAINER

RESERVOIR GROMMET

RETAINING RING
PLUG
QUICK TAKE-UP
VALVE ASSEMBLY
O-RING

MASTER CYLINDER BODY

SWITCH
PISTON
ASSEMBLY

FAILURE
WARNING
SWITCH
SECONDARY PISTON
ASSEMBLY
ASSEMBLY

PRIMARY PISTON ASSEMBLY

PROPORT IONER
VALVE ASSEMBLY
LOCK RING

SECONDARY SEAL

FIG. 2 Explode view of master cylinder, early design shown

9-6 BRAKES

Fluid level sensor

Porportioner valve
cap assembly
O-ring
Spring
Proportioner valve
piston
Proportioner valve
seal
Reservoir cap
Diaphragm
Spring pin
Reservoir assembly
O-ring
0-ring
Retainer
Primary piston
assembly
Secondary seal
Spring retainer
Primary seal
Secondary piston
Spring
Cylinder body

FIG. 3 Explode view of master cylinder, compact design shown

and do not wipe dry with a rag, which will leaves assembly into the master cylinder and secure brakes. Check the brake system for proper
bits of lint behind. Inspect all parts for corrosion with the plug, using a new O-ring on the plug. operation. Do not move the car until a “hard”
or wear. Generally, it is best to replace all rubber Torque is 40-140 inch lbs. (5-16 Nm). brake pedal is obtained and the brake system
parts whenever the master cylinder is 15. Assemble the new secondary piston has been thoroughly checked for soundness.
disassembled and replace any metal part which seals onto the piston. Lubricate the parts with
shows any sign of wear or corrosion. clean brake fluid, then install the spring, spring
11. Lubricate ail parts with clean brake fluid retainer and secondary piston into the cylinder. Power Brake Booster
before assembly. Install the primary piston, depress and install the
12. Install the quick take-up valves into the lock ring.
master cylinder body and secure with the 16. Install new 0-rings on the proportioned
snaprings. Make sure the snaprings are properly and the failure warning switch. Install the REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
seated in their grooves. Lubricate the new proportioned and torque to 18-30 ft. lbs. (25-
reservoir grommets with clean brake fluid and 40 Nm). Install the failure warning switch and 1. Remove the master cylinder from the
press them into the master cylinder. torque to 15-50 inch lbs. (2-6 Nm). booster. It is not necessary to disconnect the
13. Install the reservoir into the grommets by 17. Clamp the master cylinder body upright lines from the master cylinder. Just move the
placing the reservoir on its lid and pressing the into a vise by one of the mounting flanges. Fill cylinder aside.
master cylinder body down onto it with a rocking the reservoir with fresh brake fluid. Pump the 2. Disconnect the vacuum booster pushrod
motion. piston with a dowel until fluid squirts from the from the brake pedal inside the car. It is retained
14. Lubricate the switch piston assembly outlet ports. Continue pumping until the expelled by a bolt. A spring washer lies under the bolt
with clean brake fluid. Install new 0-rings and fluid is free of air bubbles. head, and a flat washer goes on the other side of
retainers on the piston. Install the piston 18. Install the master cylinder and bleed the the pushrod eye, next to the pedal arm.
 BRAKES 9-7
The calipers and wheel cylinders are unsprung
Hydro-Boost (ride along with the wheels) and the metal brake
lines coming from the master cylinder are
Hydro-Boost differs from conventional power
suspended by the vehicle’s springs, along with
brake systems, in that it operates from power
the frame and body. The flex hoses permit the
steering pump fluid pressure rather than intake
hydraulic force of the brake fluid to be
manifold vacuum.
transmitted to the wheels even though they are
The Hydro-Boost unit contains a spool valve
moving up and down in relation to the frame. The
with an open center which controls the strength
flexing can cause the hoses to wear, especially
of the pump pressure when braking occurs. A
if the surface of a hose should rub against the
lever assembly controls the valve’s position. A
frame or a suspension component. Inspect the
boost piston provides the force necessary to
hoses frequently and replace them if the rubber
operate the conventional master cylinder on the cover has cracked or deteriorated, or if there is
front of the booster.
any sign of leakage.
A reserve of at least two assisted brake
applications is supplied by an pneumatic
FIG. 3a Check outside of master cylinder and
accumulator. The accumulator is an integral part
brake lines for signs of leaks. Signs of dirt REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
of the Hydro-Boost II unit. The brakes can be
build up around brake lines is sometimes a
applied manually if the reserve system is
sign of slight leakage
depleted.
All system checks, tests and troubleshooting Front
3. Remove the four attaching nuts from procedure are the same for the two systems. 1. Remove the through bolt that fastens the
inside the car. Remove the booster. 1. Turn the engine off and pump the brake hose to the caliper. Remove the washers, noting
4. Install the booster on the firewall. Tighten pedal 4 or 5 times to deplete the accumulator. that there is one on either side of the fitting at the
the mounting nuts to 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm) for 2. Remove the nuts from the master cylinder, caliper end of the hose, and disconnect the hose.
1982-84 or 15 ft. lbs. (21 Nm) for 1985-88. then move the master cylinder away from the 2. If there is a clip retaining the connection at
5. Connect the pushrod to the brake pedal. booster, with brake lines still attached. the frame, remove it. Then, unscrew the flare
6. Install the master cylinder. Mounting 3. Remove the hydraulic lines from the fitting located on the pipe running along the
torque is 29 ft. lbs. (40 Nm) for 1982-84 or 22 booster. frame, using a backup wrench on the flats of the
ft. lbs. (27 Nm) for 1985-88. 4. Remove the retainer and washer at the fitting at the end of the brake hose. Remove the
brake pedal. brake line.
5. Remove the attaching nuts retaining the 3. Install in reverse order, using new washers
OVERHAUL booster fastened to the cowl and the booster. and torqueing the connection at the caliper to 33
6. To install, place the booster into position, ft. lbs. Bleed the system.
reconnect the hydraulic lines, reconnect the
This job is not difficult, but requires a number Rear
booster rod to the brake pedal and torque the
of special tools which are expensive, especially booster-to-cowl nuts to 15 ft lbs., and the 1. Remove the clips at either end of the hose.
if they’re to be used only once. Generally, it’s master cylinder-to-booster nuts to 20 ft. lbs. Unscrew the flared fitting located on the pipe
better to leave this job to your dealer, or buy a Bleed the power steering and hydro-booster running along the frame, using a backup wrench
rebuilt vacuum booster and install it yourself. system. on the flats of the fitting at the end of the brake
hose. Do the same with the flared fitting on the
booster pushrod wheel cylinder end.
2. Install in reverse order. Bleed the system.
Proportioning Valves
and Failure Warning
Switch Bleeding
The purpose of bleeding the brakes is to expel
These parts are installed in the master air trapped in the hydraulic system. The system
cylinder body. No separate proportioning or must be bled whenever the pedal feels spongy,
metering valve is used. Replacement of these indicating that compressible air has entered the
parts requires disassembly of the master system. It must also be bled whenever the
cylinder. system has been opened or repaired. You will
need a helper for this job.
FIG. 4 Power brake vacuum booster
Brake Hoses
Brake hoses are rubber covered flex hoses
designed to transmit brake pressure from the
metal tubes running along the frame to the
calipers in front and wheel cylinders in the rear.
9-8 BRAKES
❖❖ CAUTION
Never reuse brake fluid which has
been bled from the brake system.
Brake fluid should be changed
every few years. It wears out due to
moisture being absorbed which
lowers the boiling point.

Old brake fluid Is often the cause

of spongy brakes returning a week
or so after bleeding the system. If
all parts check good. Change the
fluid by repeated bleeding.
1. The sequence for bleeding is right rear, left
front, left rear and right front. If the car has power
FIG. 5 Bleeding the front brake caliper
brakes, remove the vacuum by applying the
brakes several times. Do not run the engine while
bleeding the brakes.
2. Clean all the bleeder screws. You may
want to give each one a shot of penetrating
solvent to loosen it up; seizure is a common FIG. 5b Pressure bleeding the brakes
problem with bleeder screws, which then break
off, sometimes requiring replacement of the part
to which they are attached.
3. Fill the master cylinder with DOT 3 brake
fluid.
Brake fluid absorbs moisture
from the air. Don’t leave the master
cylinder or the fluid container
uncovered any longer than
necessary. Be careful handling the
fluid, it eats paint.

FIG. 5c Brake lines must be steel with double

flared ends

FIG. 5a Bleeding the a brake caliper, using a bottle and tubing. Bleed line until no more bubbles
come from the tube in the bottle
 BRAKES 9-9
Check the level of the fluid often when 5. Have your assistant slowly depress the 6. Repeat the procedure on the other three
bleeding, and refill the reservoirs as necessary. brake pedal. As this is done, open the bleeder brakes, checking the level of fluid in the master
Don’t let them run dry, or you will have to repeat screw V3-V2 of a turn and allow the fluid to run cylinder reservoir often.
the process. through the tube. Then close the bleeder screw After you’re done, there should be no in the
4. Attach a length of clear vinyl tubing to the before the pedal reaches the end of its travel. brake pedal feel. If there is, either there is still air
bleeder screw on the wheel cylinder. Insert the Have your assistant slowly release the pedal. in the line, in which case the process should be
other end of the tube into a clear, clean jar half Repeat this process until no air bubbles appear repeated or there is a leak somewhere, which of
filled with brake fluid. in the expelled fluid. course must be corrected before the car is
moved.

FRONT DISC BRAKES

** CAUTION
Brake shoes contain asbestos,
which has been determined to be a
cancer causing agent. Never clean
the brake surfaces with
compressed airl Avoid inhaling any
dust from any brake surface! When
cleaning brake surfaces, use a
commercially available brake
cleaning fluid.

Brake Pads

INSPECTION

The pad thickness should be inspected every

time that the tires are removed for rotation. The
outer pad can be checked by looking in at each
end, which is the point at which the highest rate
of wear occurs. The inner pad can be checked hrnrttm-’
by looking down through the inspection hole in
the top of the caliper. If the thickness of the pad
I V’ '
is worn to within 0.030 in. (0.76mm) of the rivet P i\.
at either end of the pad, all the pads should be
replaced. This is the factory recommended
measurement; your state’s automobile
inspection laws may not agree with this.
Always replace all pads on both
front wheels at the same time.
Failure to do so will result In uneven
braking action and premature
wear.

Ill illlllllllllilffHffy* £•> m iwmmmm

FIG. 7 The brake pads can be inspected with wheel removed, by looking through the caliper
opening
9-10 BRAKES
bolts. Inspect the bolts for corrosion and replace pad. A new spring should be included in the pad
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
as necessary. replacement kit.
5. Remove the caliper from the steering 11. Install the new inboard into the caliper.
♦ SEE FIGS. 7 to 18 knuckle and suspend it from the body of the car The retention lugs fit into the piston.
1. Siphon 1 2 3 4 5 6/3 of the brake fluid from thewith a length of wire. Do not allow the caliper to 12. Use a large pair of slip joint pliers to bend
master cylinder reservoir. Loosen the wheel lug hang by its hose. the outer pad ears down over the caliper.
nuts and raise the car. Remove the wheel. 6. Remove the pad retaining springs and the 13. Install the caliper onto the steering
2. Position a C-clamp across the caliper so pads from the caliper. knuckle. Tighten the mounting bolts to 28 ft. lbs.
that it presses on the pads and tighten it until the 7. Remove the plastic sleeves and the rubber (38 Nm) for 1982-84 or 40 ft. lbs. (51 Nm) for
caliper bottoms in its bore. bushings from the mounting bolt holes. 1985-92. Install the wheel and lower the car. Fill
8. Install new sleeves and bushings. the master cylinder to its proper level with fresh
If you haven’t removed some
Lubricate the sleeves with a light coating of brake fluid meeting DOT 3 specifications. Since
brake fluid from the master
silicone grease before installation. These parts the brake hose wasn’t disconnected it isn’t really
cylinder, It will overflow when the
must always be replaced when the pads are necessary to bleed the brakes, although most
piston is retracted.
replaced. The parts are usually included in the mechanics do this as a matter of course.
3. Remove the C-clamp.
pad replacement kits.
4. Remove the alien head caliper mounting 9. Install the outboard pad into the caliper.
10. Install the retainer spring on the inboard Brake Caliper
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

1. Follow Steps 1,2 and 3 of the pad

replacement procedure.
2. Before removing the caliper mounting
bolts, remove the bolt holding the brake hose to
the caliper.
3. Remove the alien head caliper mounting
bolts. Inspect them for corrosion and replace
them if necessary.
4. Install the caliper and brake pads over the
rotor. Mounting bolt torque is 28 ft. lbs. (38 Nm)
for 1982-84 or 40 ft. lbs. (51 Nm) for 1985-92
for the caliper.
5. Install the brake hose to the caliper. The
brake hose fitting should be tightened to 33 ft.
lbs. (45 Nm).
6. Install the wheel and tire and lower the
vehicle.

FIG. 10 First step in brake repair is to clean the brake components with FIG. 11 Remove caliper retaining bolts. Make certain socket or hex is a
proper brake cleaning chemicals, to avoid dry brake dust perfect fit. Use one lugnut to keep rotor from falling off
 BRAKES 9-11

FIG. 12 Remove caliper and support with clothes hanger. Don’t allow FIG. 13 When removing the inboard pad note the location and direction
to hang from brake hose. Outboard pad is sometimes a very tight of the retaining pins

FIG. 14 Front disc pads and caliper pins FIG. 15 Front piston can be pressed back into caliper using slip-joint
pliers or a C-clamp. Remove 1/3 the fluid from the master cylinder
9-12 BRAKES

FIG. 17 Clean, lubricate and install caliper retaining pins

FIG. 18 Your completed disc brake replacement should be bled and road tested
 BRAKES 9-13
OVERHAUL pressure to mb the crocus cloth around the
circumference of the bore; do not slide it in and
out. More extensive wear or corrosion warrants
1. Remove the caliper. replacement of the part.
2. Remove the pads. 8. Clean any parts which are to be reused in
3. Place some cloths or a slat of wood in denatured alcohol. Dry them with compressed or
front of the piston. Remove the piston by allow to air dry. Don’t wipe the parts dry with a
applying compressed air to the fluid inlet fitting. cloth, which will leave behind bits of lint
Use just enough air pressure to ease the piston 9. Lubricate the new seal, provided in the
from the bore. repair kit, with clean brake fluid. Install the seal
in its groove, making sure it is fully seated and
not twisted.
10. Install the new dust boot on the piston.
❖❖ CAUTION 6. Inspect the piston for scoring, nicks, Lubricate the bore of the caliper with clean brake
Do not try to catch the piston with corrosion, wear, etc., and damaged or worn fluid and insert the piston into its bore. Position
your fingers, which can result In chrome plating. Replace the piston if any defects the boot in the caliper housing and seat with a
serious Injury. are found. seal driver of the appropriate size, or G.M. tool N.
7. Remove the piston seal from the caliper J—29077.
bore groove using a piece of pointed wood or 11. Install the bleeder screw, tightening to
4. Remove the piston boot with a plastic. Do not use a screwdriver, which will 110 inch lbs. (13 Nm) for 1982-84 or 120 inch
screwdriver, working carefully so that the piston damage the bore. Inspect the caliper bore for lbs. (14 Nm) for 1985-92. Do not overtighten.
bore is not scratched. nicks, corrosion and so on. Very light wear can 12. Install the pads, the caliper and bleed the
5. Remove the bleeder screw. be cleaned up with crocus cloth. Use finger brakes.

* ON SOME MODELS THE RETAINER SPRING IS

ALREADY STAKED TO THE INBOARD SHOE.

1. Mounting bolt and

sleeve assembly
2. Bushing 12
3. Bushing
4. Outboard shoe and
lining
5. Inboard shoe and
lining
6. Wear sensor 10. Piston seal
7. Shoe retainer spring 11. Bleeder valve
8. Boot 12. Caliper housing
9. Piston 13. Boot

FIG. 21 Exploded view of a disc brake caliper - model 3257 shown

9-14 BRAKES
1. Bolt boot 6. Wear sensor
2. Mounting bolt and 7. Inboard shoe and
sleeve assembly lining
3. Bushing 8. Boot
4. Bushing 9. Piston
10. Piston seal
11. Bleeder valve
12. Caliper housing

FIG. 22 Exploded view of a disc brake caliper - model 3264 shown

can be removed by refacing, a job to be referred

Brake Disc (Rotor) to your local machine shop or garage. Minimum
thickness is stamped on the rotor 0.030 in.
(0.76mm) or 0.972 in. (24.7mm) for heavy duty.
If the rotor will be thinner than this after
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION refinishing, it must be replaced.
2. Check the rotor parallelism; it must vary
less than 0.0005 in. (0.0127mm) measured at
1. Remove the wheel cover, loosen the hub
four or more points around the circumference.
nut, and raise and support the car. Remove the
Make all measurements at the same distance in
front wheel.
from the edge of the rotor. Refinish the rotor if it
2. Install the boot cover, tool J—28712
fails to meet this specification.
(Double-Offset joint) or J—33162 (Tri-Pot joint).
3. Measure the disc runout with a dial
3. Remove and discard the hub nut. Be sure
indicator. If runout exceeds 0.002 in. (0.051mm)
to use a new one on assembly, not the old one.
for 1982-84 or 0.004 in. (0.10mm) for 1985—88
4. Remove the alien head caliper mounting FIG. 23 Checking rotor with a dial indicator and the wheel bearings are OK (if runout is being
bolts and remove the brake caliper. for runout measured with the disc on the car), the rotor
5. Remove the caliper from the knuckle and
must be refaced or replaced as necessary.
suspend from a length of wire. Do not allow the
caliper to hang from the brake hose.
10. Connect the brake hose clip to the strut.
6. Pull the rotor from the knuckle.
7. To install, place the rotor onto the steering
Install the tire and wheel, lower the car, and Wheel Bearing
tighten the hub nut to 225 ft. lbs. (1981-82); 185
knuckle, then install the hub nut. When the shaft ft. lbs. (1983-92).
begins to turn with the hub, insert a drift through
the caliper into one of the cooling slots in the
rotor to keep it from turning. Insert a long bolt in
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
INSPECTION
the hub flange to prevent the shaft from turning.
Tighten the hub nut to 70 ft. lbs. 1. Loosen the hub nut, then raise and support
8. Tighten the brake caliper bolts to 30 ft. lbs. 1. Check the rotor surface for wear or the vehicle on jackstands. Remove the wheel
9. Remove the boot seal protector. scoring. Deep scoring, grooves or rust pitting and tire assembly.
 BRAKES 9-15
2. Using tool J-28712 (Double-Offset Joint)
or J—33162 (Tri-Pot Joint), install it over the
drive axle joint boot.
3. Remove the hub nut, the caliper (support it
on a wire) and the rotor.
4. Remove the hub/bearing assembly-to-
steering knuckle mounting bolts and the bearing
assembly, then the splash shield.
If the bearing assembly Is to be
reused, mark the assembly and the
steering knuckle so that the
assembly can be reinstalled In the
same position. To prevent
damage to the bearing, DO NOT use
heat or a hammer.
5. Install tool J-28733 to the bearing
assembly and press the assembly from the drive
axle.
6. Remove the steering knuckle seal from the
steering knuckle seal from the outboard side;
inboard side and cut it off the drive axle.
use tool J—34658 (1985-88 standard duty) to
On the 1985 and later models with install the seal from the inboard side. Grease the
a standard bearing, It will be lip of the seal with wheel bearing grease.
necessary to remove the steering 9. Install a new O-ring between the steering
knuckle from the vehicle. knuckle and the bearing assembly.
Disconnect the stabilizer bar from 10. To complete the installation, reverse the
the lower control arm, using tool J- removal procedures. Torque the bearing
29330, separate the ball Joint from assembly-to-steering knuckle bolts to 63 ft. lbs.
the steering knuckle, then (85 Nm) for 1982-85 standard duty or 77 ft. lbs.
disconnect the steering knuckle (104 Nm) for 1985-88 heavy duty.
from the strut. Support the drive 11. Install the hub/bearing assembly-to-drive
axle (out of the way) on a wire. 7. Clean the gasket and the seal mounting axle nut and partially torque to 74 ft. lbs. (100
Using a brass drift, drive the Inner surfaces. Nm), then lower the vehicle and torque the hub
knuckle seal from the steering 8. Using tool J-28671 (1982-84) or J- nut to 214 ft. lbs. (289 Nm) for 1982 or 192 ft.
knuckle. 34657 (1985-88 heavy duty), install the new lbs. (260 Nm) for 1983-88.

REAR DRUM BRAKES

the matchmarks made during removal. Lug nut

❖❖CAUTION Brake Drums torque is 102 ft. lbs. (140 Nm).
Brake shoes contain asbestos,
which has been determined to be a INSPECTION
cancer causing agent. Never clean REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
the brake surfaces with
compressed air! Avoid Inhaling any 1. After removing the brake drum, wipe out
dust from any brake surface! When 1. Loosen the wheel lug nuts. Raise and the accumulated dust with a damp cloth.
cleaning brake surfaces, use a support the car. Mark the relationship of the
commercially available brake wheel to the axle and remove the wheel.
cleaning fluid. 2. Mark the relationship of the drum to the ❖❖ WARNING
axle and remove the drum. If it cannot be slipped Do not blow the brake dust out of
off easily, check to see that the parking brake is the drums with compressed air or
fully released. If so, the brake shoes are lung-power. Brake linings contain
probably locked against the drum. See the asbestos, a known cancer causing
“Adjustment” section earlier in this section for substance. Dispose of the cloth
details on how to back off the adjuster. used to clean the parts after use.
3. Installation is the reverse. Be sure to align
9-16 BRAKES

FIG. 26 Checking drum and shoe adjustment

2. Inspect the drums for cracks, deep r+ This figure may disagree with It is not really necessary to
grooves, roughness, scoring, or out-of- your state’s automobile inspection remove the hub and wheel bearing
roundness. Replace any drum which is cracked; laws. If the brake lining Is soaked assembly from the axle, but It does
do not try to weld it up. with brake fluid or grease, It must make the job easier. If you can
3. Smooth any slight scores by polishing the be replaced. If this Is the case, the work with the hub and bearing
friction surface with fine emery cloth. Heavy or brake drum should be sanded with assembly in place, skip down to
extensive scoring will cause excessive lining crocus cloth to remove all traces of Step 3.
wear and should be removed from the drum brake fluid, and the wheel cylinders 2. Remove the four hub and bearing
through resurfacing, a job to be referred to your should be rebuilt. Clean all grit from assembly retaining bolts and remove the
local machine shop or garage. The maximum the friction surface of the drum assembly from the axle.
finished diameter of the drums is 7.894 in. before replacing It. 3. Remove the return springs from the shoes
(200.5mm) for 1982-84 or 8.92 in. with a pair of needle nose pliers. There are also
If the lining is chipped, cracked or otherwise
(226.57mm) for 1985-88. The drum must be damaged, it must be replaced with a new lining. special brake spring pliers for this job.
replaced if the diameter is 7.929 in. (201.40mm) 4. Remove the hold down springs by gripping
for 1982-84 or 8.95 in. (227.33mm) for 1985 or Always replace the brake linings
in sets of two on both ends of the them with a pair of pliers, then pressing down
newer. and turning 90°. There are special tools to grab
axle. Never replace just one shoe or
both shoes on one side. and turn these parts, but pliers work fairly well.
5. Remove the shoe holddown pins from
Brake Shoes Check the condition of the shoes, retracting behind the brake backing plate. They will simply
springs and holddown springs for signs of slide out once the holddown spring tension is
* SEE FIGS. 27 to 47 overheating, if the shoes or springs have a slight relieved.
blue color, this indicates overheating, then 6. Lift up the actuator Sever for the self-
replacement of the shoes and springs is adjusting mechanism and remove the actuating
INSPECTION recommended. The wheel cylinders should be link. Remove the actuator lever, pivot and the
rebuilt as a precaution against future problems. pivot return spring.
After removing the brake drum, inspect the 7. Spread the shoes apart to clear the wheel
brake shoes. If the lining is worn down to within cylinder pistons, then remove the parking brake
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION strut and spring.
V32 in. (0.8mm) of a rivet, the shoes must be
replaced. 8. If the hub and bearing assembly is still in
place, spread the shoes far enough apart to clear
1. Loosen the lug nuts on the wheel to be
it.
serviced, raise and support the car, and remove
the wheel and brake drum. 9. Disconnect the parking brake cable from
the lever. Remove the shoes, still connected by
their adjusting screw spring, from the car.
 BRAKES 9-17

FIG. 27 Discard the metal retaining clips; they are only used to retain FIG. 28 Slide drum off carefully to avoid creating brake dust
drums on the assembly line

FIG. 29 First step in brake repair is to clean the brake components with FIG. 30 Removing return springs
proper brake cleaning chemicals, to avoid dry brake dust
9-18 BRAKES

FIG. 31 Removing self-adjuster lever anti-rattle spring FIG. 32 Pull back on parking brake lever to allow enough room to
remove from anchor

FIG. 33 Removing hold-down springs FIG. 34 Remove brake shoes; note that parking brake lever is still
attached to secondary brake shoe
 BRAKES 9-19

FIG. 35 Twist brake shoe assembly around and remove parking brake
lever

FIG. 37 Clean and lubricate the backing plate FIG. 38 Install new brake shoes, make certain adjuster spring does NOT
touch starwheel
9-20 BRAKES

FIG. 39 Install the parking brake lever on secondary shoe strut rod, spring end toward primary shoe

FIG. 41 Install the hold-down springs FIG. 42 Install the self-adjuster lever
 BRAKES 9-21

FIG. 43 Install the return springs FIG. 44 Check all components for proper seating and arrangement
before installing drum and adjusting

10. With the shoes removed, note the the purpose. Install the lever on the secondary 20. Install the actuator pivot, lever and return
position of the adjusting spring, then remove the shoe and secure with the C-clip. spring. Install the actuating link in the shoe
spring and adjusting screw. 16. Install the adjusting screw and spring on retainer. Lift up the actuator lever and hook the
11. Remove the C-clip from the parking the shoes, connecting them together. The coils link into the lever.
brake lever and the lever from the secondary of the spring must not be over the star wheel on 21. Install the holddown pins through the
shoe. the adjuster. The left and right hand springs are back of the plate, install the lever pivots and
12. Use a damp cloth to remove all dirt and not interchangeable. Do not mix them up. holddown springs. Install the shoe return springs
dust from the backing plate and brake parts. 17. Lubricate the shoe contact surfaces on with a pair of pliers. Be very careful not to stretch
13. Check the wheel cylinder by carefully the backing plate with the brake grease. Be or otherwise distort these springs.
pulling the lower edges of the wheel cylinder certain when you are using this stuff that none of
boots away from the cylinders. If there is it actually gets on the linings or drums. Apply the
PROPER SPRING
excessive leakage, the inside of the cylinder will same grease to the point where the parking ADJUSTING
SCREW INSTALLATION
be moist with fluid. If leakage exists, a wheel brake cable contacts the plate. Use the grease
cylinder overhaul is in order. Do not delay, sparingly.
because brake failure could result. 18. Spread the shoe assemblies apart and
connect the parking brake cable. Install the
A small amount of fluid will be
shoes on the backing plate, engaging the shoes PRIMARY
present to act as a lubricant or the SECONDARY SHOE
at the top temporarily with the wheel cylinder SHOE
wheel cylinder pistons. Fluid
pistons. Make sure that the star wheel on the star wheel adjusting screw
spilling from the boot center hole,
adjuster is lined up with the adjusting hole in the SPRING
after the piston is removed,
backing plate, if the hole is back there.
indicates cup leakage and the 19. Spread the shoes apart slightly and install FIG. 45 Proper spring installation with the
necessity for cylinder overhaul. the parking brake strut and spring. Make sure coils over adjuster body and not touching
14. Check the backing plate attaching bolts to that the end of the strut without the spring the star wheel. The star wheel movement
make sure that they are tight. Use fine emery engages the parking brake lever. The end with must not be stopped by the spring
cloth to clean all rust and dirt from the shoe the spring engages the primary shoe (the one
contact surfaces on the plate. with the shorter lining).
15. Lubricate the fulcrum end of the parking
brake lever with brake grease specially made for
9-22 BRAKES i

BLEEDER SCREW

WHEEL CYLINDER
^✓RETAINER

HOLD-DOWN STRUT
PINS SPRING

SECONDARY
SHOE

ADJUSTING
SCREW SPRING'
FIG. 46 Explode view of a drum brake assembly, with parking brake pin on lever

1. Return spring 16. Adjusting screw

2. Return spring 17. Retaining ring
3. Hold down spring 18. Pin
4. Lever pivot 19. Parking brake lever
5. Hold down pin 20. Bleeder valve
6. Actuator link 21. Bolt
7. Actuator lever 22. Boot
8. Lever return spring 23. Piston
9. Parking brake strut 24. Seal
10. Strut spring 25. Spring assembly
11. Primary (small) shoe 26. Wheel cylinder
& lining 27. Backing plate
12. Secondary (larger)
shoe & lining
13. Adjusting screw
spring
14. Socket it
15. Pivot nut

FIG. 47 Explode view of a drum brake assembly, with parking brake on shoe
 BRAKES 9-23
22. Take a look at everything. Make sure the
linings are in the right place, the self-adjusting
mechanism is correctly installed and the parking
brake parts are all hooked up. if in doubt, remove
the other wheel and take a look at that one for
comparison.
23. Measure the width of the linings, then
measure the inside width of the drum. Adjust the
linings by means of the adjuster so that the drum
will fit onto the linings.
24. Install the hub and bearing assembly onto
the axle if removed. Tighten the retaining bolts to
45 ft. lbs. (60 Nm).
25. Install the drum and wheel. Adjust the
brakes. Be sure to install a rubber hole-cover in
the knock-out hole after the adjustment is
complete. Adjust the parking brake.
26. Lower the car and check the pedal for
any sponginess or lack of a “hard” feel. Check
the braking action and the parking brake. The
brakes must not be applied severely immediately
after installation. They should be used
moderately for the first 200 miles of city driving
or 1000 miles of highway driving, to allow the
3. If the wheel cylinder is retained with #6 13. The rest of installation is the reverse of
linings to conform to the shape of the drum.
torx head bolts simply remove the bolts. If removal. After the drum is installed, bleed the
retained with clips, remove the wheel cylinder brakes.
retainer by using two awls or punches with a tip
Wheel Cylinders diameter of Vs in. (3mm) or less. Insert the awls
t SEE FIGS. 48 to 50
or punches into the access slots between the OVERHAUL
wheel cylinder pilot and retainer locking tabs.
Bend both tabs away simultaneously. Remove
the wheel cylinder from the backing plate. As is the case with master cylinders, overhaul
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION To install: kits are available for the wheel cylinders. And, as
4. If retained with bolts simply install wheel is the case with master cylinders, it is usually
cylinder and tighten bolts to 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm). more profitable to simply buy new or rebuilt
1. Loosen the wheel lug nuts, raise and wheel cylinders rather rebuilding them. When
support the car, and remove the wheel. Remove If retained with clips, position the wheel cylinder
against the backing plate and hold it in place with rebuilding wheel cylinders, avoid getting any
the drum and brake shoes. Leave the hub and contaminants in the system. Always install new
wheel bearing assembly in place. a wooden block between the wheel cylinder and
the hub and bearing assembly. high quality brake fluid; the use of improper fluid
2. Remove any dirt from around the brake will swell and deteriorate the rubber parts.
5. Install a new retainer over the wheel
line fitting. Disconnect the brake line. 1. Remove the wheel cylinders.
cylinder abutment on the rear of the backing
plate by pressing it into place with an 1 Vs in. 2. Remove the rubber boots from the cylinder
12-point socket and an extension. ends. Discard the boots.
6. Install a new bleeder screw into the wheel 3. Remove and discard the pistons and cups.
cylinder. Install brake line and torque to 10-15 ft. 4. Wash the cylinder and metal parts in
lbs. (14-20 Nm). denatured alcohol.
7. Install the brake shoes and drum. Adjust
the brakes.
8. Install the tire and wheel assembly.
CAUTION
9. Lower the vehicle. Never use mineral based solvents
10. Bleed the brake system. to clean the brake parts.
11. Install a new retainer over the wheel
cylinder abutment on the rear of the backing
plate by pressing it into place with a 1 Vs in. 12-
point socket and an extension. 5. Allow the parts to air dry and inspect the
12. Install a new bleeder screw into the wheel cylinder bore for corrosion or wear. Light
cylinder. Install the brake line and tighten to 12.5 corrosion can be cleaned up with crocus cloth;
ft. lbs. (17 Nm) for 1982-84 or 18 ft. lbs. (24 use finger pressure and rotate the cloth around
Nm) for 1985 and newer. the circumference of the bore. Do not move the
cloth in and out. Any deep corrosion can be
9-24 BRAKES
cleaned up with crocus cloth; use finger 11. Install the wheel cylinders. Bleed the 4. Remove the brake line from the wheel
pressure and rotate the cloth around the brakes after installation of the drum. cylinder.
circumference of the bore. Do not move the cloth 5. Remove the parking brake cable.
in and out. Any deep corrosion or pitting or wear 6. Remove the hub and bearing assembly.
warrants replacement of the parts. Backing Plate 7. Remove the backing plate.
6. Rinse the parts and allow to dry. Do not To Install:
dry with a rag, which will leave bits of line 8. Install the backing plate to axle.
behind. 9. Install the hub and bearing assembly.
7. Lubricate the cylinder bore with clean 10. Install the parking brake cable.
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
brake fluid. Insert the spring assembly. 11. Install the wheel cylinder and brake line,
8. Install new cups. Do not lubricate prior to following procedures given earlier.
assembly. 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 12. Install the brake components, shoes,
9. Install the new pistons. 2. Raise and safely support the car. spring, etc..
10. Press the new boots onto the cylinders 3. Remove the brake drum, shoes and 13. Adjust and bleed the rear brakes.
by hand. Do not lubricate prior to assembly. springs as previously described. 14. Adjust the parking brake cables.

PARKING BRAKE

7. Remove the 3 screws and 1 nut and lower To Install:

Cables the driver’s side sound insulator panel. 14. Insert the cable through the floor pan and
8. Remove the carpet finish molding. Lift the grommet
carpet. 15. Seat the grommet. Install the grommet
9. Remove the cable retaining clip at the lever retainer to the floor pan.
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 16. Fasten the cable in the retaining clips.
assembly.
t SEE FIGS. 51 to 52 10. Depress the retaining tangs and remove 17. Connect the cable and casing to the lever
Front Cable the cable and casing from the lever assembly. assembly. Seat the retaining tangs.
11. Remove the cable from the retaining 18. Install the cable retaining clip at the lever
1. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
clips. assembly.
2. Loosen the equalizer nut. 19. Place the carpet into position. Install the
12. Remove the grommet retainer from the
3. Disconnect the front cable from the carpet finish molding.
floor pan.
connector and equalizer.
13. Unseat the grommet and pull the cable 20. Install the driver’s side sound insulator
4. Remove the clip at the frame. panel and attaching screws and nuts.
through the floor pan.
5. Remove the cable from the hanger. 21. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
6. Lower the vehicle. 22. Fasten the cable to the hanger.
23. Install the clip to the frame.
STEERING COLUMN 24. Connect the front cable to the equalizer
SUPPORT and connector.
CABLE ft
25. Adjust the parking brake cable.
HANDLE 26. Lower the vehicle.
ASM.
Left Rear Cable
1. Raise and support the rear of the vehicle
on jackstands.
INSTRUMENT
2. Loosen the equalizer nut to relieve the
PANEL CONTROL cable tension, then remove the wheel and tire
ASM. CABLE assembly.
WITH THE RELEASE HANDLE
IN THE RELEASED POSITION MUST 3. Remove the brake drum, then insert a
&FOOT FORCE SLOWLY REDUCED NOT BE screwdriver between the brake shoe and the top
ON PEDAL THE PEDAL MUST KINKED
BELOW of the brake adjuster bracket.
FULLY RETURN TO ITS STOP
ft SHUT OFF THE WARNING THIS 4. Push the bracket forward and release the
LIGHT POINT top adjuster bracket rod. Remove the rear
holddown spring, the actuator lever and the lever
CABLE ASM. PARKING BRAKE FRONT-
return spring.
FIG. 52 Parking brake control assembly 5. Remove the adjuster screw spring and the
top rear brake shoe return spring.
 BRAKES 9-25
HOLE IN \ GROMMET /, FUEL TANK
FLOOR PAN ROCKER PANEL ROUTE CABLE WITH MIN.
^CLEARANCE OF 8mm.
DIMPLE
TO BRAKE PIPES
FLOOR PAN

BRAKE PIPES

SCREW
LEFTSIDE
ROCKER PML LONGITUDINAL
RETAINER
REAR AXLE ASftfS. RAIL
VIEW B
CABLE ASM
VIEW C

RIGHT REAR CABLE

FRONT OF DASH
EQUALIZER ASM.

LEFT REAR
BRAKE
RIGHT REAR BRAKE CABLE ASM.
CABLE ASM
ROCKER PANEL
FISHER ELECTRICAL AXLE ASM.
ROUTE CABLE ON INBOARD HARNESS
CABLE ASM -PARKING
BRAKE FRONT
SIDE OF ELECTRICAL HARNESS VIEWD

FIG. 51 Parking brake cable routing

6. Remove the parking brake cable from the 2. Loosen the equalizer nut to relieve the 11. Connect the cable to the parking brake
parking brake lever. cable tension, then remove the wheel and tire lever.
7. Depress the conduit fitting retaining tangs assembly. 12. Install the brake dmm, tire and wheel.
and remove the fitting from the backing plate. 3. Remove the brake dmm, then insert a 13. Connect the cable at the equalizer and
8. Back off the equalizer nut and remove the screwdriver between the brake shoe and the top connector.
left cable from the equalizer. of the brake adjuster bracket. 14. Adjust the regular service brake, then
9. Depress the conduit fitting retaining tangs 4. Push the bracket forward and release the adjust the parking brake cable.
and remove the fitting from the axle bracket. top adjuster bracket rod. Remove the rear 15. Lower the vehicle.
To Install: holddown spring, the actuator lever and the lever
10. Install the cable through the rear of the return spring. ADJUSTMENT
backing plate. Seat the retaining tangs in the 5. Remove the adjuster screw spring and the
backing plate. top rear brake shoe return spring.
11. Connect the cable to the parking brake 6. Remove the parking brake cable from the 1. Raise and support the car with both rear
lever. parking brake lever. wheels off the ground.
12. Install the brake drum, tire and wheel. 7. Depress the conduit fitting retaining tangs 2. Depress the parking brake pedal exactly
13. Connect the cable at the equalizer and and remove the fitting from the backing plate. three ratchet clicks.
connector. 8. Remove the cable button end from the 3. Loosen the equalizer locknut, then tighten
14. Adjust the regular service brake shoes, connector. the adjusting nut until the left rear wheel can just
then adjust the parking brake cable. 9. Depress the conduit fitting retaining tangs be turned backward using two hands, but is
15. Lower the vehicle. and remove the fitting from the axle bracket. locked in forward rotation.
To install: 4. Tighten the locknut.
Right Rear Cable 10. Install the cable through the rear of the 5. Release the parking brake. Rotate the rear
1. Raise and support the rear of the vehicle backing plate. Seat the retaining tangs in the wheels; there should be no drag.
on jackstands. backing plate. 6. Lower the car.
9-26 BRAKES

ANTI-LOCK BRAKE SYSTEM

valves are provided for each front wheel; both flash other ABS related messages on the Graphic
General Description rear wheels share a set of solenoid valves and a Control Center or other message panels. The
single pipe from the master cylinder to the warning light will illuminate if a malfunction in
The Teves Anti-Lock Brake System used on
proportioner valve or tee. The proportioner valve the anti-lock brake system is detected by the
the General Motors A-Body cars is manufactured
splits the right and left rear brake circuits to the electronic controller. In case of an electronic
by Alfred Teves Technologies of West Germany.
wheels. malfunction, the controller will turn on the
The 4 wheel system uses a combination of
wheel speed sensors and a microprocessor to The Pontiac 6000 AWD ANTILOCK warning light and disable some or all
Incorporates a differential lock of the anti-lock system. If only the ANTILOCK
determine impending wheel lock-up and adjust
the brake pressure to maintain the best braking. mounted on the transaxle transfer light is on, normal braking with full assist is
This system helps the driver maintain the control case. The lock Is engaged when the operational but there may be reduced or no anti¬
of the vehicle under heavy braking conditions. vehicle is In all wheel drive and the lock function. If the ANTILOCK warning light and
transfer case differential is locked. the red BRAKE warning light come on at the
Due to the rigid coupling of the front same time, there may be a fault in the hydraulic
❖❖ CAUTION and rear axles through the drive brake system.
train, the wheel speed sensors The ANTILOCK light will turn on during the
Some procedures In this section starting of the engine and will usually stay on for
require that hydraulic lines, hoses cannot relay accurate data to the
controller. The differential lock approximately 3 seconds after the ignition switch
and fitting be disconnected for is returned to the RUN position.
inspection or testing purposes. disables the ABS system when the
Before disconnecting any hydraulic vehicle Is in all wheel drive. Due to system de-pressurlzatlon
lines, hoses or fittings, be sure that The ABS system can increase, decrease or over time, a vehicle not started In
the accumulator is fully hold pressure in each hydraulic circuit several hours may have the BRAKE
depressurized. Failure to depending on signals from the wheel speed and ANTI LOCK warning lights stay
depressurize the hydraulic sensors and the electronic brake control module. on up to 30 seconds when started.
accumulator may result In personal During an ABS stop, a slight bump or a kick- This is normal and occurs because
Injury. back will be felt in the brake pedal. This bump the ABS pump must restore the
will be followed by a series of short pulsations correct pressure within the
which occur in rapid succession. The brake hydraulic accumulator; both lamps
pedal pulsations will continue until there is no will remain on while this recharging
The use of rubber hoses or parts
longer a need for the anti-lock function or until is completed.
other than those specified for the
ABS system may lead to functional the vehicle is stopped. A slight ticking or popping
problems and/or impaired braking noise may be heard during brake applications Brake System Warning Light
or ABS function. Install all with anti-lock. This noise is normal and indicates
The Anti-lock Brake System uses a 2 circuit
components included in repair kits that the anti-lock system is being used.
design so that some braking capacity is still
for this system. Lubricate rubber During anti-lock stops on dry pavement, the
available if hydraulic pressure is lost in 1 circuit
pats with clean fresh brake fluid to tires may make intermittent chirping noises as
A BRAKE warning light is located on the
ease assembly. Do not use they approach lock-up. These noises are
instrument cluster and is designed to alert the
lubricated shop air to clean or dry considered normal as long as the wheel does not
driver of conditions that could result in reduced
components; damage to rubber truly lock or skid. When the anti-lock system is
braking ability. Certain models may display
parts may result. being used, the brake pedal may rise even as the
brake related messages on screens or other
brakes are being applied. This is normal.
panels; these messages supplement the brake
Maintaining a constant force on the pedal will
warning light.
SYSTEM OPERATION provide the shortest stopping distance.
The BRAKE warning light should turn on
Vehicles equipped with the Anti-lock Brake briefly during engine starting and should remain
System may be stopped by applying normal
Under normal driving conditions the Anti-lock on whenever the parking brake is not fully
force to the brake pedal. Although there is no released. Additionally, the BRAKE warning lamp
system functions the same as a standard brake need to push the brake pedal beyond the point
system. The primary difference is that the power will illuminate if a sensor detects low brake fluid,
where it stops or holds the vehicle, applying if the pressure switch detects low accumulator
assist for normal braking is provided by the more force causes the pedal to travel toward the
booster portion of the hydraulic unit through the pressure or if certain on-board computers run a
floor. This extra brake travel is normal. self-check of the dashboard and instruments.
use of pressurized brake fluid.
If a wheel locking tendency is noted during a AntMock Warning Light If the BRAKE warning light stays on longer
brake application, the ABS system will modulate than 30 seconds after starting the engine, or
Vehicles equipped with the Anti-lock Brake
hydraulic pressure in the individual wheel comes on and stays on while driving, there may
System have an amber warning light in the
circuits to prevent any wheel from locking. A be a malfunction in the brake hydraulic system.
instrument panel marked ANTILOCK.
separate hydraulic line and 2 specific solenoid Additionally, some models using this system will
 BRAKES 9-27

hydraulic pressure within the brake lines.

Pressure in the booster servo circuit is
controlled by a spool valve which opens in
response to the amount of force applied to the
brake pedal. The rate at which the vehicle
decelerates depends on the type of road surface
against interference. The EBCM then calculates and the pressure applied to the brake pedal.
SYSTEM COMPONENTS
wheel speed for each wheel based on the The master cylinder portion uses a 3-circuit
frequency of the AC voltage received from the configuration during normal braking; individual
sensor. circuits are provided for each front wheel while
Electronic Brake Control Module a shared circuit is used for the rear wheels. The
(EBCM) Hydraulic Components 3 circuits are isolated so that a leak or
The EBCM monitors the speed of each wheel The ABS uses an integrated hydraulic unit malfunction in one will allow continued braking
and the electrical status of the hydraulic unit. The mounted on the firewall or cowl. This unit on the others.
EBCM’s primary functions are to detect wheel functions as a brake master cylinder and brake The master cylinder/booster is a non-
lockup, control the brake system while in anti- booster. Additionally, the hydraulic unit provides serviceable component and should never be
lock mode and monitor the system for proper brake fluid pressure modulation for each of the disassembled.
electrical operation. When 1 or more wheels individual wheel circuits as required during
VALVE BLOCK
approach lockup during a stop, the EBCM will braking. The hydraulic unit consists of several
The valve block is attached to the right side of
command appropriate valve positions to individual components.
the hydraulic unit and includes the 6 solenoid
modulate brake fluid pressure and provide
MASTER CYLINDER/BOOSTER ASSEMBLY valves used to modulate pressures in the 3
optimum braking. It will continue to command
This portion of the hydraulic unit contains the circuits during anti-lock braking. Each circuit is
pressure changes in the system until a locking
valves and pistons necessary to develop equipped with an inlet and outlet valve.
tendency is no longer noted.
The EBCM is a separate computer used
exclusively for control of the Anti-lock brake
system. The unit also controls the retention and
display of the ABS trouble codes when in the
diagnostic mode. As the EBCM monitors the
system or performs a self-check, it can react to
a fault by disabling all or part of the ABS system
and illuminating the amber ANTILOCK warning
light. The EBCM is located on the right side of the
dashboard, generally behind the glove box.
Wheel Speed Sensors
A wheel speed sensor at each wheel transmits
speed information to the EBCM by generating a
small AC voltage relative to the wheel speed. The
voltage is generated by magnetic induction
caused by passing a toothed sensor ring past a
stationary sensor. The signals are transmitted
through a pair of wires which are shielded
9-28 BRAKES
During normal braking, the inlet valves are displayed to the driver. The EBCM will engage removal and installation procedures should be
open and the outlet valves are closed. When anti¬ the amber ANTILOCK warning light and disable serviced.
lock control begins, the EBCM switches 12 volts the ABS function. • Do not use rubber hoses or other parts not
to the appropriate valve circuit. This allows the specifically specified for the Teves ABS system.
PRESSURE SWITCH When using repair kits, replace all parts included
fluid pressure in each circuit to be increased,
decreased or held constant as the situation The pressure switch is mounted on the pump/ in the kit. Partial or incorrect repair may lead to
dictates. The position of the valves can be motor assembly and serves 2 major functions, functional problems and require the replacement
changed as quickly as 15 times per second controlling the pump/motor and providing low of the hydraulic unit
when ABS is engaged. pressure warning to the EBCM. • Lubricate rubber parts with clean, fresh
The valve block may be serviced separately The switch will allow the pump/motor to run
brake fluid to ease assembly. Do not use
from the master cylinder/booster assembly but when system pressure drops below
lubricated shop air to clean parts; damage to
should never be disassembled. approximately 2030 psi (14,000 kpa) and will
rubber components may result.
shut the pump/motor off when pressure in the
• Use only brake fluid from an unopened
MAIN VALVE accumulator is approximately 2610 psi (18,000
container. Use of suspect or contaminated brake
The main valve is a 2-position valve kpa). Should pressure within the accumulator
controlled by the EBCM. Except fortesting, the fluid can reduce system performance and/or
drop below approximately 1500 psi (10,300
valve is open only during ABS stops. When open, kpa), internal switches will both signal the EBCM durability.
the valve allows pressurized brake fluid from the and turn on the red BRAKE warning lamp. If the • When any hydraulic component or line is
booster servo into the master cylinder front system re-pressurizes and reaches at least 1900 removed or replaced, it may be necessary to
brake circuits to prevent excessive pedal travel. psi (13,100 kpa), the switches will reset. bleed the entire system.
The main valve is not serviceable as a • A clean repair area is essential. Perform
component; the master cylinder/booster PROPORTIONER VALVE repairs after components have been thoroughly
assembly must be replaced. Included in the rear brake circuit is a cleaned; use only denatured alcohol to clean
proportioner valve or tee assembly which limits components. Do not allow ABS components to
ACCUMULATOR come into contact with any substance containing
brake pressure build-up at the rear brake
The hydraulic accumulator is used to store mineral oil; this includes used shop rags.
calipers. Since the front brakes do the majority
brake fluid at high pressure so that a supply of • Remove the lock pin before disconnecting
of the braking, less pressure is required for the
pressurized fluid is available for ABS operation Connector Position Assurance (CPA) connectors
rear brakes under certain conditions. The
and to provide power assist. The accumulator in the harnesses.
proportioner valve improves front—to—rear brake
uses a rubber diaphragm to separate high- • The EBCM is a microprocessor similar to
balance during normal braking.
pressure nitrogen gas from the brake fluid. other computer units in the vehicle. Insure that
Nitrogen in the accumulator is pre-charged to the ignition switch is OFF before removing or
approximately 870 psi (6000 kpa). During installing controller harnesses. Avoid static
normal operation, the pump and motor assembly Troubleshooting electricity discharge at or near the Controller.
charges the accumulator with brake fluid to an • Never disconnect any electrical connection
operation range of 2000-2600 psi (13,800— with the ignition switch ON unless instructed to
18,000 kpa). do so in a test.
Because of the high pressures in the system, SERVICE PRECAUTIONS
• Always wear a grounded wrist strap when
it is extremely important to observe all safety and servicing any control module or component
pressure reduction precautions before labeled with a Electrostatic Discharge (ESD)
performing repairs or diagnosis. symbol.
CAUTION • Avoid touching module connector pins.
PUMP/MOTOR ASSEMBL Y
The ABS system uses a pump and motor This brake system uses a hydraulic • Leave new components and modules in the
assembly located on the left side of the hydraulic accumulator which, when fully shipping package until ready to install them.
unit to pressurize fluid from the reservoir and charged, contains brake fluid at • To avoid static discharge, always touch a
store it in the accumulator. When pressure within very high pressure. Before vehicle ground after sliding across a vehicle seat
the system drops, the pressure switch on the disconnecting any hydraulic lines, or walking across carpeted or vinyl floors.
hydraulic unit grounds the pump motor relay hoses or fittings be certain that the • Never allow welding cables to lie on, near
which energizes the pump motor and pump. accumulator pressure Is or across any vehicle electrical wiring.
The pump/motor assembly is serviceable only completely relieved. Failure to • Do not allow extension cords for power
as an assembly; the pump must never be depressurize the accumulator may tools or droplights to lie on, near or across any
disconnected from the motor. result in personal Injury and/or vehicle electrical wiring.
vehicle damage.
FLUID LEVEL SENSOR
Found in the fluid reservoir, this sensor is a DEPRESSURIZING THE
float which operates 2 reed switches when low • If the vehicle is equipped with air bag (SIR) HYDRAULIC UNIT
fluid level is detected. One switch will cause the system, always properly disable the system
red BRAKE warning light to illuminate; the other before commencing work on the ABS system.
signals the EBCM and possibly other computers • Certain components within the ABS system The ABS pump/motor assembly will keep the
of the low fluid situation. Depending on model are not intended to be serviced or repaired accumulator charged to a pressure between
and equipment, other messages may be individually. Only those components with approximately 2000 psi (13,800 kpa) and 2600
psi (18,000 kpa) any time the ignition is in the
 BRAKES 9-29
ON or RUN position. The pump/motor cannot DISPLAYING ABS TROUBLE seconds before beginning to flash. If, after 4
operate if the ignition is OFF or if a battery cable seconds, the light turns off and stays off, no
is disconnected.
CODES
codes are stored.
1. With the ignition OFF or the negative 5. The light will pause for 3 seconds between
battery cable disconnected, pump the brake the first and second digits of the first code and
p* The 1st generation system found
pedal a minimum of 25 times using at least 50 then continue flashing. When counting flashes,
on the 6000 AWD does not display
lbs. of pedal force each time. count only the ON pulses.
trouble codes; diagnosis Is
2. A definite increase in pedal effort will be 6. When the EBCM is finished transmitting
performed through symptom
felt as the accumulator becomes discharged. the second digit of the first code, the ANTI-LOCK
analysis and circuit testing.
3. After the increased pedal effort occurs, light will remain on. This last, constant ON
continue with 5-10 additional brake applications Only certain ABS malfunctions will cause the should not be counted as a flash. Record the 2-
to release any remaining pressure. EBCM to store diagnostic trouble codes. Failures digit code.
causing a code will generally involve wheel 7. Without turning the ignition switch OFF,
speed sensors, main valve or the inlet and outlet disconnect the jumper from pin H and reconnect
VISUAL INSPECTION valves. Conditions affecting the pump/motor it. If an additional code is present, it will be
assembly, the accumulator, pressure switch or
displayed in similar fashion to the first. Record
fluid level sensor usually do not cause a code to the second code.
Before any system diagnosis is begun, the set.
8. Repeat the disconnection and
brake system should be inspected visually for The EBCM will store trouble codes in a non¬
reconnection of pin H without changing the
common faults which could disable the ABS or volatile memory. These codes remain in memory
ignition switch until no more codes are
cause a code to set. Check the vehicle carefully until erased through use of the correct
displayed. The system is capable of storing and
for any sign of: binding parking brake or faulty procedure. The codes are NOT erased by
displaying 7 codes; the ANTI-LOCK warning light
parking brake switch, low brake fluid, sysfem disconnecting the EBCM, disconnecting the
will stay on continuously when all codes have
fluid leaks including pump/motor area, failed battery cable or turning off the ignition. Always
been displayed.
fuses or fusible links, failed ABS relay, loose or be sure to clear the codes from the memory after
9. After recording each code, remove the
damaged wiring including connectors, repairs are made. To read stored ABS trouble
jumper from the ALDL, replace the cover and
harnesses, and insulation wear. Check the codes:
proceed.
mounting and function of the brake calipers at 1. Turn ignition switch to ON. Allow the
each wheel. Carefully inspect the multi-pin pump to charge the accumulator; if fully The ABS trouble codes are not
connectors at the EBCM for pushouts or poor discharged, dash warning lights may stay on up specifically designated current or
connections. to 30 seconds. If ANTI-LOCK warning light does history codes. If the ANTI-LOCK
not go off within 30 seconds, note it. light Is on before entering the ABS
2. Turn ignition switch to OFF. diagnostic mode, at least 1 of the
FUNCTIONAL CHECK 3. Remove the cover from the ALDL stored codes is current. It Is
connector. Enter the diagnostic mode by using a impossible to tell which code is
jumper wire to connect pins H and A or to current. If the ANTI-LOCK light Is off
Once the visual check has been performed, connect pin H to body ground. before entering the diagnostic
perform the functional check to determine if the 4. Turn the ignition switch to ON and count mode, none of the codes are
problem is truly ABS related or arising from the light flashes for the first digit of the first code. current.
common faults. The ANTI-LOCK light should illuminate for 4

ABS DIAGNOSTIC MODE

EXAMPLE* • ABS CODE 34 PRESENT
• ALDL PIN H GROUNDED BEFORE KEY-ON

* *

3 SEC. SECOND DIGIT CONTINUOUS

PAUSE OF CODE = 4 LIGHT

END OF CODE

FIG. 56 Reading anti-lock brake system trouble codes

9-30 BRAKES
INTERMITTENTS anti-lock function for the entire ignition cycle, CLEARING TROUBLE
even if the fault clears before the next key-off CODES
occurrence. There are 3 situations which will
Although the ABS trouble codes stored by the allow the ABS to re-engage if the condition
EBCM are not identified as current or history corrects during the ignition cycle. Each of these Stored ABS trouble codes should not be
codes, these codes may still be useful in will illuminate 1 or both dash warning lights. cleared until all repairs are completed. The
diagnosing intermittent conditions. • Low system voltage: If the EBCM detects control module will not allow any codes to be
If an intermittent condition is being diagnosed: low voltage, the ANTI-LOCK warning lamp is cleared until all have been read. After reading
1. Obtain an accurate description of the illuminated. If correct minimum voltage is each stored code, drive the vehicle at a speed
circumstances in which the failure occurs. restored to the EBCM, normal ABS function over 18 mph.
2. Display and clear any ABS trouble codes resumes. Re-read the system; if codes are still present,
which may be present in the EBCM. • Low brake fluid level: Once detected by the not all codes were read previously or additional
3. Test drive the vehicle, attempting to fluid level sensor, this condition illuminates both repair is needed.
duplicate the failure condition exactly. the BRAKE and ANTI-LOCK warning lights; when
4. After duplicating the condition(s), stop the In the following diagnostic
the sensor indicates acceptable fluid level, the charts, certain special tools may be
vehicle and display any ABS codes which have normal ABS function resumes. required. Use of the J-35592 Pinout
set. • Low accumulator pressure: Should the box or equivalent Is required to
5. If no codes have been stored, refer to the accumulator lose or not develop correct avoid damage to the connectors at
Symptom Diagnosis Charts. A good description pressure, both the BRAKE and ANTI-LOCK the EBCM; use of J-35604 pressure
of vehicle behavior can be helpful in determining warning lights will illuminate. Full function is gauge and J-35604-88 adapter (or
a most likely circuit. restored when the correct pressure is achieved. equivalents) will be required to
Most intermittent problems are caused by • Any condition interrupting power to either measure accumulator pressure.
faulty electrical connections or wiring. Always the EBCM or hydraulic unit may cause the The use of a high-impedance
check for poor mating of connector halves or warning lights to come on intermittently. These multi-meter (DVM or DVOM) Is
terminals not fully seated in connector bodies, circuits include the main relay, main relay fuse, required at all times.
deformed or damaged terminals and poor EBCM fuse, pump motor relay and all related
terminal to wire connections. wiring.
Most failures within the ABS will disable the

TEVES ANTI-LOCK BRAKE FUNCTIONAL CHECK

HAS A VISUAL INSPECTION OF THE SYSTEM BEEN PERFORMEO?

O TURN IGNITION TO THE START POSITION OO TO SYMPTOM WAONOS1S

# OBSERVE ANTI-LOCK UOMT CHART

•AWTV-LOCX* OQHT ON ‘ANTI-LOCK* UQHT OFF OR

VERY OtM
O LEAVE ONTTION ON FOR M SECONOS
0 KEY OFF FOR IB SECONOS OO TO SYMPTOM OIAONOSIS
# KEY ON ANO WATT 10 SECONOS CHART
e OBSERVE -BRAKE* ANO 'ANTI-LOCK* UQMTS

•ANTM.OCK* ‘•RAKE* UQHT •ANTI-LOCK* ANO NEITHER

UQHT ONLY ON ONLY ON ‘•RAKE* UQHT ON UQHT ON

ENTER ABS OO TO SYMPTOM OO TO SYMPTOM • TEST DfVVt VEHICLE

OtAQNOSnc MOOE WAONOSIS CHART CXAQNOSIS CHART AS 0ESCM8E0 IN THIS
ARE ANY ABS SECTION. BE SURE TO
COOES PRESENT? ACHIEVE AT LEAST 20 MPH
• WO THE * AN TV-LOCK*
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•i 1 Df~l
APPHOPRUTE OIAONOSIS • WO THE VEHICLE EXHIBIT
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OPTV* ORTVE
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MOOE. CHECK FOR ABS
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•HWTORY- COOES
DIAGNOSIS CHART WAONOSIS CHART DIAGNOSIS CHART
• ARE COOES PRESENT?

dT
e CHARTS DESIONATEO M COOE INDEX MAY BE SEE
USED TO IDENTIFY ANO ISOLATE SUSPECT CIRCUITS NOTE ON
• SEE NOTE ON INTERMITTENTS INTERMITTENTS
ABS WIRING SCHEMATIC BRAKES 9-31

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BRAKES 9-39
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 BRAKES 9-57

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ANTI-LOCK WARNING LAMP ON INTERMITTENTLY WHILE DRIVING

INTERRUPTIONS IN THE FOLLOWING CIRCUITS MAY CAUSE

THE "ANTILOCK" LAMP TO LIGHT INTERMITTENTLY. THIS
LIST DOES NOT INCLUDE ALL POSSIBILITIES, BUT
INCLUDES THOSE CIRCUITS MOST LIKELY TO CAUSE THE
"ANTILOCK" WARNING LAMP TO LIGHT INTERMITTENTLY.

EBCM SWITCH LOOP, INCLUDING

- CIRCUIT 866 ILT. GRN) FROM Ee^ TO FLUID LEVEL
SENSOR
- 2 PIN FLUID LEVEL SENSOR
- CIRCUIT 853 (LT. BLU/ORNI FROM FLUIO LEVEL SENSOR
TO PRESSURE SWITCH
- CIRCUIT 865 (PPL) FROM PRESSURE SWITCH TO EBCM

IGNITION ENABLE CIRCUIT, INCLUDING

- BRAKE FUSE (#5 IN CONVENIENCE CENTER 5A)
- CIRCUIT 350 (PNK/WHT) FROM RELAY COIL TO GROUND
- DIFFERENTIAL LOCK ENGAGED SWITCH AND JUMPER (AWD)
- 951 CIRCUIT TO DIFFERENTIAL LOCK CONTROL RELAY IN THE
CONSOLE (AWD)

MAIN RELAY CIRCUITS, INCLUDING

- CIRCUIT 855 (DK. BLU) FROM EBCM TO RELAY COIL
- CIRCUIT 450 (BLK/WHT) FROM RELAY COIL TO GROUND

ALL WHEEL SPEED SENSOR CIRCUITS

INSPECT CONNECTORS AND WIRES IN THESE CIRCUITS. IF

NO TROUBLE IS FOUND, SEE NOTE ON INTERMITTENTS

Speed Sensors 1. Front axle with

sensor ring
2. Adjusting bolt
3. Sensor bracket
4. Sensor
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 5. Retaining bolt
6. Knuckle and hub

Front Speed Sensor

PONTIAC 6000 AWD

1. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
2. Remove the tire and wheel.
3. Disconnect the wheel sensor connector
from the wiring harness.
4. Remove the sensor retaining screw. FIG. 57 Front speed sensor assembly - 6000 shown
5. Remove the wheel sensor and cable from
the brackets. 8. Install the sensor and cable to the bracket. ALL OTHER MODELS
6. Unseat the grommet and pull the cable and Make certain the cable is clear of the steering 1. Disconnect sensor connector from wiring
connector through the wheel housing. and axle housing components. harness.
7. To install, insert the cable and connector 9. Tighten the sensor retaining bolt to 53 inch 2. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
through the wheel housing; seat the grommet in lbs. (6 Nm). 3. Remove the wheel and tire.
position. 10. If necessary, adjust the air gap to 0.028 4. Remove sensor cables from various clips
i* New wheel sensors are equipped in. (0.7mm) using a non-ferrous feeler gauge. and retainers.
with a paper spacer that will 11. Tighten the sensor lock bolt to 18 inch 5. Either remove large cable grommets from
properly gap the sensor when lbs. (2 Nm). brackets or, if necessary, unbolt bracket from
placed against the sensor ring. 12. Connect the wheel sensor connector. strut.
13. Install the wheel and tire; lower the 6. Remove the sensor retaining screw;
vehicle. remove the sensor.
 BRAKES 9-59
7. To install, coat the sensor body with anti¬ 3. Loosen the sensor adjustment bolt for the 9. If the wiring harness connector is in the
corrosion compound 6M 1052856 or equivalent front or rear sensor. trunk, connect the wiring.
where the sensor will contact the knuckle. 4. Inspect the face of the sensor for abnormal
8. Install the sensor. Tighten the mounting wear or damage. If necessary, replace the
bolt to 106 inch lbs. (12 Nm). sensor. Hydraulic Unit
9. Position and install the cable in grommets,
New sensors come with a paper
clips and retainers. Cables must be secure in the spacer which will properly gap the
retainers and clear of moving parts. Cable must
sensor when placed against the
not be pulled too tight. REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
speed sensor ring.
10. Connect sensor to wiring harness.
11. Install wheel and tire; lower the vehicle. 5. If the sensor is to be reused, clean the face
of the sensor of all traces of the paper spacer,
Rear Speed Sensor dirt, dust, etc. Pontiac 6000 AWD
6. Reposition the sensor; adjust the air gap to 1. Depressurize the hydraulic accumulator.
PONTIAC 6000 AWD 2. With the key OFF, disconnect the
0.028 in. (0.7mm) using a non-ferrous feeler
1. Disconnect the speed sensor connector in gauge. negative battery cable.
the front comer of the trunk compartment. If the 3. Remove the wire clip from the return hose
7. Tighten the adjustment screw to 18 inch
right rear connector is to be disconnected, the fitting and remove the return hose from the
lbs. (2 Nm).
spare wheel and tire must be removed. pump. Pull the return hose fitting out of the pump
8. Install the wheel and tire. Lower the
2. Release the cable grommet Carefully housing.
vehicle.
work the sensor cable and connector through the 4. Remove the pressure hose bolt from the
hole in the body panel. ALL OTHER MODELS
pump; remove the hose and 0-rings from the
3. Raise and safely support the vehicle.- 1. Disconnect the sensor connector located pump.
4. Remove the wheel and tire. in the trunk on most models. Disengage the
5. Remove the pump mounting bolt; separate
5. Remove the sensor mounting bolt; remove retaining clips and grommets holding the sensor
the energy unit from the energy unit from the
the sensor from the caliper. Slide the grommets wire harness.
hydraulic unit.
out of the slots in the brackets and cable guide. 2. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
6. Using 2 wrenches, disconnect the brake
6. If the old sensor is to be reused, remove 3. Remove the wheel and tire.
lines from the valve block and the hydraulic unit.
the paper spacer and any debris from the face of 4. Remove the sensor retaining bolt and 7. Disconnect the pushrod from the brake
the sensor. remove the sensor.
pedal.
7.lnstall the sensor and tighten the retaining 5. To install, the surfaces of the sensor which 8. Push the dust boot forward, off the rear
bolt to 80 inch lbs. (9 Nm). If reusing the old contact the knuckle must be coated with an anti¬ half of the pushrod. Unscrew the 2 halves of the
sensor, adjust the air gap. corrosion compound such as 1052856 or pushrod.
p+ New wheel sensors are equipped
equivalent. This coating must be applied any
9. Remove the 2 hydraulic unit mounting
with a paper spacer that will time the sensor is removed. bolts from the pushrod bracket.
properly gap the sensor when 6. To install, position the sensor and install 10. Remove the hydraulic unit from the
placed against the sensor ring. the retaining bolt. Tighten the bolt to 80-100 inch pushrod bracket. The front half of the pushrod
lbs. (9-12 Nm). will remain locked into the hydraulic unit.
8. Install the grommets in position on the 7. Install the sensor harness into the clips and
brackets and cable guide. To Install:
grommets. Correct cable placement is critical to 11. Mount the hydraulic unit to the pushrod
9. Route the cable to avoid contact with avoid contact or stretching damage during
moving suspension components, work the bracket and install the mounting bolts. Tighten
suspension movement.
connector and cable up through the hole in the the bolts to 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm).
8. If the sensor connector is not in the trunk, 12. Thread the 2 parts of the pushrod
underbody, then fit the grommet into position in connect the harnesses. Install the wheel and tire.
the hole. together and reposition the dust boot.
Lower the vehicle. 13. Connect the pushrod to the brake pedal;
10. Install the wheel and tire. Lower the
vehicle. tighten the nut to 27 ft. lbs. (37 Nm).
11. Connect the wheel sensor connector to 14. Using 2 wrenches, connect the brake
lines to the hydraulic unit and the valve block.
the wiring harness.
12. Install the spare wheel and tire if Tighten to 11 ft. lbs (20 Nm).
15. Connect the energy unit to the pump unit
removed; secure the trunk carpet.
and install the pump mounting bolt.
Air Gap Adjustment 16. Install the pressure hose and 0-rings to
Only the front and rear sensors on the pump; install the hose bolt and tighten it to 15
the Pontiac 6000 AWD are ft. lbs. (20 Nm).
adjustable. On all other vehicles, 17. Push the return hose fitting into the pump
the gap may be checked but is not body and connect the return hose to the pump.
adjustable. 18. Install the wire clip to the return hose
fitting.
PONTIAC 6000 AWD 19. Connect the wiring to the hydraulic unit.
1. Raise and safely support the vehicle. 20. Connect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove the wheel and tire. 21. Bleed the brake system.
9-60 BRAKES
6. Using 2 wrenches, disconnect the brake
CAUTION lines from the hydraulic unit and valve body. Valve Block Assembly
Do not move vehicle until a firm 7. Push the dust boot forward, past the hex
brake pedal is achieved. Failure to on the pushrod, and separate the pushrod into 2
obtain firm brake pedal may result sections by unscrewing it
8. Remove the hydraulic unit mounting bolts
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
In personal injury and/or property
damage. at the pushrod bracket. Remove the hydraulic
unit from the car, part of the pushrod may remain 1. With the ignition OFF disconnect the
with the unit. negative battery cable.
To Install: 2. Depressurize the accumulator.
All Other Models 9. Position the hydraulic unit and install new 3. For Pontiac 6000 AWD, remove the
1. With ignition switch OFF, disconnect the retaining bolts at the pushrod bracket. Tighten hydraulic unit. For all other models, drain or
negative battery cable. the bolts to 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm). remove the brake fluid from the reservoir.
2. Depressurize the hydraulic accumulator. 10. From inside car, thread pushrod halves 4. Disconnect the electrical harness running
3. Disconnect all electrical connections at the together and tighten. Reposition the dust boot to the valve block.
hydraulic unit. and connect the pushrod to the brake pedal. 5. It may be necessary on some models to
4. Remove the cross-car brace if equipped. 11. Install the brake lines to the valve block; disconnect the brake lines from the bottom of the
5. Remove the pump bolt and move pump/ tighten to 106 inch lbs. (12 Nm). valve block.
motor assembly to allow access to the brake 12. Position the pump/motor assembly on 6. At the valve block, remove the 3 nuts or 2
lines. the hydraulic unit. Install the mounting bolt and nuts and 1 bolt with hex faces only. Remove the
tighten to 10 ft lbs. (13 Nm). valve block assembly and O-rings by sliding the
13. Install the cross-car brace if one was valve block off of the studs. Recover any 0-rings
removed. or gaskets from the mounting points and/or the
14. Connect the electrical harness to the fluid line ports.
hydraulic unit
15. Connect the negative battery cable. Do not attempt to disassemble
16. Bleed the brake system. the valve block by removing the
bolts with the recessed drive
heads; the unit cannot be
** CAUTION overhauled or repaired.
Do not move vehicle until a firm To install:
brake pedal Is achieved. Failure to 7. Lubricate the 0-rings with brake fluid.
obtain firm brake pedal may result 8. Install the valve block and O-rings onto the
in personal Injury and/or property master cylinder body.
damage. 9. Install the 3 nuts or 2 nuts and 1 bolt;
tighten to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).
10. Connect the brake lines to the bottom of
FIG. 59 Remove the fasteners from the
the valve block if they were removed.
positions shown by arrows only, other
11. Reinstall the hydraulic unit if it was
fasteners must NOT be disturbed removed.
12. Connect the wiring harnesses.
13. Refill the system or reservoir to the
correct level.
14. Connect the negative battery cable.
15. Bleed the brake system.

Pressure Warning
Switch

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Depressurize the accumulator.
3. Disconnect tha electrical connector from
the pressure/waming switch.

/
BRAKES 9-61
9-62 BRAKES
4. Remove the pressure/waming switch position. The BRAKE light should go out within
using special tool J-35804 or equivalent 60 seconds. Pump and Motor
5. Remove the O-ring from the switch. 9. Check for leakage around the accumulator. Assembly
6. To install, lubricate a new O-ring with clean
brake fluid.
7. Install the O-ring on the pressure/waming
switch. Brake Fluid Reservoir
8. Install the switch and tighten to 17 ft. lbs. and Seal REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
(23 Nm). using the special tool.
9. Connect the electrical connector to the
pressure/waming switch. 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
10. Connect the negative battery cable. 2. Depressurize the accumulator.
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 3. Disconnect the electrical connector from
11. Turn the ignition to the ON position. The
BRAKE light should go out within 60 seconds. the pressure switch and the electric motor.
12. Check for leakage around the switch. 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Remove the fluid from the reservoir.
2. Depressurize the accumulator. Do not remove brake fluid from
3. Remove the return hose and drain the the reservoir using a syringe or
Hydraulic Accumulator brake fluid into a container. Discard the fluid other instrument which Is
properly. contaminated with water,
4. Disconnect the 2 wire connectors from the petroleum based fluids or any other
fluid level sensor assembly. foreign material. Contamination of
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 5. Remove the reservoir-to-block mounting the brake fluid may result in
bolt. impaired system operation,
6. Remove the reservoir by carefully prying property damage or personal
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. between the reservoir and the master cylinder. injury.
2. Depressurize the accumulator. Make 7. To install, lubricate the seals with clean
certain the system is completely relieved of all 4. Remove the hydraulic accumulator and O-
brake fluid. ring.
hydraulic pressure. 8. Install the seals and O-ring into the master
3. Unscrew the hydraulic accumulator from 5. Disconnect the high pressure hose fitting
cylinder body. connected to the pump.
the hydraulic unit. 9. Push the reservoir into the master cylinder
4. Remove the O-ring from the accumulator. 6. Remove the pressure hose assembly and
until it is fully seated. 0-rings.
5. To install, lubricate a new O-ring with clean 10. Install the reservoir to valve block
brake fluid and install it on the accumulator. 7. Disconnect the wire clip then, pull the
mounting bracket bolt. return hose fitting out of the pump body.
6. Install the accumulator and tighten to 32 ft. 11. Connect the 2 wire connectors to the
lbs. (43 Nm), except on 6000 AWD tighten to 17 8. Remove the bolt attaching the pump and
reservoir cap. motor assembly to the main body.
ft. lbs. (23 Nm). 12. Connect the sump hose to the reservoir.
7. Connect the negative battery cable. 9. Remove the pump and motor assembly by
13. Refill the reservoir with clean brake fluid. sliding it off of the locating pin.
8. Turn the ignition switch to the ON 14. Connect the negative battery cable.

1. Hydraulic unit
2. Electronic controller
3. Front wheel speed
sensor
4. Relays and grounds
5. Sensor connections
harness
6. Relays and fuse

FIG. 62 Anti-lock brake system components

 BRAKES 9-63
** Replace the insulators if SYSTEM BLEEDING 10. Check the fluid level and adjust as
damaged or deteriorated. necessary.
10. To install, position the pump and motor 11. Remove the brake bleeding equipment
assembly to the main body. Front and/or rear brake circuits should be bled
and adapters, install the cap or sensor.
using pressure bleeding equipment. The
11. Install the bolt attaching the pump and
pressure bleeder must be of the diaphragm type REAR BRAKE CIRCUIT
motor assembly to the main body.
and must have a rubber diaphragm between the
12. Connect the pressure hose assembly.
air supply and brake fluid. If necessary, the front
13. Connect the return hose and fitting into
brakes may be bled manually; manual bleeding » CAUTION
the pump body. Install the wire clip.
is not recommended for the rear brakes.
14. Install the bolt, O-rings and fitting of the Do not move vehicle until a firm
high pressure hose to the pump assembly. FRONT BRAKE CIRCUIT brake pedal is achieved. Failure to
15. Connect the electrical connector to the obtain firm brake pedal may result
pump motor. in personal Injury and/or property
16. Connect the negative battery cable. ❖❖ CAUTION damage
Do not move vehicle until a firm
brake pedal is achieved. Failure to
obtain firm brake pedal may result 1. With the ignition switch OFF, disconnect
Filling and Bleeding the in personal injury and/or property the negative battery cable.
System damage 2. Depressurize the accumulator.
3. Check the fluid level in the reservoir and fill
as necessary.
1. With the ignition switch OFF, disconnect 4. Turn the ignition switch ON and allow the
SYSTEM FILLING the negative battery cable. system to charge. (Listen for the pump motor; it
2. Depressurize the accumulator. will stop when the system is charged.)
3. Remove the reservoir cap or disconnect 2. Attach a bleeder hose to 1 of the rear
Do not allow the pump to run more the wiring sensor from the fluid level sensor and bleeder valves and submerge the other end in a
than 60 seconds at 1 time. If the remove the sensor. container of clean brake fluid.
pump must run longer, allow the
4. Install the special tool No. J—35798 in 3. Open the bleeder valve.
pump to cool several minutes
place of the cap or sensor. 4. With the ignition ON, slightly depress the
between 60 second runs.
5. Attach the brake bleeder to the adapter tool brake pedal for at least 10 seconds.
With the ignition OFF and the negative No. J—35798 and charge to 20 psi (138 kPa). 5. Allow the fluid to flow from the bleeder
battery cable disconnected, discharge the
5. Attach a bleeder hose to 1 front bleeder until no air bubbles are seen in the brake fluid.
pressure within the accumulator. Remove the
valve and submerge the other end in a container Repeat the Step above if necessary.
cap from the reservoir; fill the reservoir to the
correct level with DOT 3 fluid. of clean brake fluid. 6. Close the bleeder valve.
6. Open the bleeder valve. 7. Repeat Steps 2-6 on the other rear bleeder
m Use only DOT 3 brake fluid from a
7. Allow the fluid to flow from the bleeder valve.
clean, sealed container. Use of DOT
until no air bubbles are seen in the brake fluid. 8. Depressurize the system. Inspect the
5 silicone fluid Is not
recommended. Internal damage to 8. Close the bleeder valve. reservoir fluid level and adjust as necessary.
the pump components may result. 9. Repeat Steps 4-7 on the other front
bleeder valve.

Brake Specifications
Minimum Lining
Bake Disc Brake Drum Thickness
Lug
Nut Master Max Max
Torque Cylinder Minimum Maximum Machine Wear
Model (ft. lb.) Bore Thickness Run-Out Diameter 0/S Limit Front Rear

All 102 0.874 0.830 © ® 0.0005 7.874 7.900 7.930 © ©

© Minimum lining thickness is to V32 of rivet

® Minimum lining thickness is as recommended by the manufacturer. Because of variations in state inspection reg¬
ulations, the minimum allowable thickness may be different than recommended by the manufacturer.
© Heavy Duty: 0.972
9-64 BRAKES
BRAKE SPECIFICATIONS
(All specifications in inches)
Brake Drum_ Minimum
Master Brake Disc Original Max. Maximum Lining
Cylinder Original Minimum Maximum Inside Wear Machine Thickness
Year Model Bore Thickness Thickness Runout Diameter Limit 0/S Front Rear
1982 All 0.874 NA 0.815 0.004 7.879 7.899 7.899 0.030 ©
1983 All 0.874 NA 0.815 0.004 7.879 7.899 7.899 0.030 ©
1984 All exc. HD 0.874 NA 0.815 0.004 8.863 8.883 8.883 0.030 ©
All HD 0.944 NA ^ 0.957 0.004 8.863 8.883 8.883 0.030 ©
1985 All exc. HD 0.874 NA 0.815 0.004 8.863 8.883 8.920 0.030 ©
All HD 0.944 NA 0.957 0.004 8.863 8.920 8.920 0.030 ©
1986 All exc. HD 0.874 NA 0.815 0.004 8.863 8.877 8.877 0.030 ©
All HD 0.944 NA 0.957 0.004 8.863 8.883 8.877 0.030 ©
1987 All exc. HD 0.874 NA 0.815 0.004 8.863 8.877 8.877 0.030 ©
All HD 0.944 NA 0.957 0.004 8.863 8.883 8.877 0.030 ©
Century r/disc — NA 0.681 0.003 — — — — 0.030
6000 r/disc — NA 0.429 0.004 — — — — 0.030
1988 All exc. HD
wagon 0.874 NA 0.815 0.004 8.863 8.877 8.877 0.030 ©
sedan 0.874 NA 0.815 0.004 8.863 8.920 8.920 0.030 ©
All HD
wagon 0.944 NA 0.957 0.004 8.863 8.877 8.877 0.030 ©
sedan 0.874 NA 0.957 0.004 8.863 8.920 8.920 0.030 ©
Century r/disc — NA 0.681 0.003 — — — — 0.030
6000 r/disc — NA 0.429 0.004 — — — — 0.030
1989 All exc. HD
wagon 0.874 NA 0.815 0.004 8.863 8.877 8.877 0.030 ©
sedan 0.874 NA 0.815 0.004 8.863 8.920 8.920 0.030 ©
rear disc — NA 0.681 0.003 — — — — 0.030
All HD
wagon 0.944 NA 0.957 0.004 8.863 8.877 8.877 0.030 ©
sedan 0.874 NA 0.957 0.004 8.863 8.920 8.920 0.030 ©
rear disc — NA 0.681 0.003 — — — — 0.030
1990 All exc. HD
wagon 0.874 NA 0.815 0.004 8.863 8.877 8.877 0.030 ©
sedan 0.874 NA 0.815 0.004 8.863 8.920 8.920 0.030 ©
rear disc — NA 0.681 0.003 — — — — 0.030
All HD
wagon 0.944 NA 0.957 0.004 8.863 8.877 8.877 0.030 ©
sedan 0.874 NA 0.957 0.004 8.863 8.920 8.920 0.030 ©
rear disc — NA 0.681 0.003 — — — — 0.030
1991 All exc. HD
wagon 0.874 NA 0.815 0.004 8.863 8.877 8.877 0.030 ©
sedan 0.874 NA 0.815 0.004 8.863 8.920 8.920 0.030 ©
rear disc — NA 0.681 0.003 — — — — 0.030
All HD
wagon 0.944 NA 0.957 0.004 8.863 8.877 8.877 0.030 ©
sedan 0.874 NA 0.957 0.004 8.863 8.920 8.920 0.030 ©
rear disc — NA 0.681 0.003 — — — — 0.030
 BRAKES 9-65
BRAKE SPECIFICATIONS
(All specifications in inches)
Brake Drum Minimum
Master Brake Disc Original Max. Maximum Lining
Cylinder Original Minimum Maximum Inside Wear Machine Thickness
Bore Thickness Thickness Runout Diameter Limit 0/S Front Rear
1992 All exc. HD
wagon 0.874 NA 0.815 0.004 8.863 8.877 8.877 0.030 ©
sedan ' 0.874 NA 0.815 0.004 8.863 8.920 8.920 0.030 ©
rear disc NA 0.681 0.003 0.030
All HD
wagon 0.944 NA 0.957 0.004 8.863 8.877 8.877 0.030 ©
sedan 0.874 NA 0.957 0.004 8.863 8.920 8.920 0.030 ©
rear disc — NA 0.681 0.003 — — ■U-. — 0.030
© 0.030 in. over rivet head or 0.062 in. over
bonded shoe

Troubleshooting the Brake System

Problem Cause Solution

Low brake pedal (excessive pedal • Excessive clearance between rear • Make 10 to 15 alternate forward
travel required for braking action.) linings and drums caused by in¬ and reverse brake stops to ad¬
operative automatic adjusters just brakes. If brake pedal does
not come up, repair or replace
adjuster parts as necessary.
• Worn rear brakelining • Inspect and replace lining if worn
beyond minimum thickness
specification
• Bent, distorted brakeshoes, front • Replace brakeshoes in axle sets
or rear
• Air in hydraulic system • Remove air from system. Refer to
Brake Bleeding.
Low brake pedal (pedal may go to • Fluid leak in hydraulic system • Fill master cylinder to fill line; have
floor with steady pressure ap¬ helper apply brakes and check
plied.) calipers, wheel cylinders, differ¬
ential valve tubes, hoses and fit¬
tings for leaks. Repair or replace
as necessary.
• Air in hydraulic system • Remove air from system. Refer to
Brake Bleeding.
• Incorrect or non-recommended • Flush hydraulic system with clean
brake fluid (fluid evaporates at brake fluid. Refill with correct-
below normal temp). type fluid.
• Master cylinder piston seals worn, • Repair or replace master cylinder
or master cylinder bore is
scored, worn or corroded
Low brake pedal (pedal goes to floor • Disc brake pads sticking on abut¬ • Clean abutment surfaces
on first application—o.k. on sub¬ ment surfaces of anchor plate.
sequent applications.) Caused by a build-up of dirt,
rust, or corrosion on abutment
surfaces
9-66 BRAKES
Troubleshooting the Brake System (cont.)
Problem Cause Solution

Fading brake pedal (pedal height • Fluid leak in hydraulic system • Fill master cylinder reservoirs to fill
decreases with steady pressure mark, have helper apply brakes,
applied.) check calipers, wheel cylinders,
differential valve, tubes, hoses,
and fittings for fluid leaks. Repair
or replace parts as necessary.
• Master cylinder piston seals worn, • Repair or replace master cylinder
or master cylinder bore is
scored, worn or corroded
Spongy brake pedal (pedal has ab¬ • Air in hydraulic system • Remove air from system. Refer to
normally soft, springy, spongy feel Brake Bleeding.
when depressed.) • Brakeshoes bent or distorted • Replace brakeshoes
• Brakelining not yet seated with • Burnish brakes
drums and rotors
• Rear drum brakes not properly • Adjust brakes
adjusted
Decreasing brake pedal travel (pedal • Caliper or wheel cylinder pistons • Repair or replace the calipers, or
travel required for braking action sticking or seized wheel cylinders
decreases and may be accompa¬ • Master cylinder compensator ports • Repair or replace the master cylin¬
nied by a hard pedal.) blocked (preventing fluid return der
to reservoirs) or pistons sticking
or seized in master cylinder bore
• Power brake unit binding internally • Test unit according to the following
procedure:
(a) Shift transmission into neutral
and start engine
(b) Increase engine speed to 1500
rpm, close throttle and fully de¬
press brake pedal
(c) Slow release brake pedal and
stop engine
(d) Have helper remove vacuum
check valve and hose from
power unit. Observe for back¬
ward movement of brake
pedal.
(e) If the pedal moves backward,
the power unit has an internal
bind—replace power unit
Grabbing brakes (severe reaction to Brakelining(s) contaminated by • Determine and correct cause of
brake pedal pressure.) grease or brake fluid contamination and replace
brakeshoes in axle sets
Parking brake cables incorrectly • Adjust cables. Replace seized
adjusted or seized cables.
Incorrect brakelining or lining loose • Replace brakeshoes in axle sets
on brakeshoes
Caliper anchor plate bolts loose • Tighten bolts
Rear brakeshoes binding on sup¬ • Clean and lubricate ledges. Re¬
port plate ledges place support plate(s) if ledges
are deeply grooved. Do not
attempt to smooth ledges by
grinding.
Incorrect or missing power brake • Install correct disc
reaction disc
Rear brake support plates loose • Tighten mounting bolts
 BRAKES 9-67
Troubleshooting the Brake System (cont.)
Problem Cause Solution

Chatter or shudder when brakes are • Brakeshoes distorted, bent, con¬ • Replace brakeshoes in axle sets
applied (pedal pulsation and taminated, or worn
roughness may also occur.) • Caliper anchor plate or support • Tighten mounting bolts
plate loose
• • Excessive thickness variation of • Refinish or replace rotors in axle
rotor(s) sets
Noisy brakes (squealing, clicking, • Bent, broken, distorted brakeshoes • Replace brakeshoes in axle sets
scraping sound when brakes are • Excessive rust on outer edge of • Remove rust
applied.) rotor braking surface

Hard brake pedal (excessive pedal • Loose or leaking power brake unit • Tighten connections or replace
pressure required to stop vehicle. vacuum hose leaking hose
May be accompanied by brake • Incorrect or poor quality brake¬ • Replace with lining in axle sets
fade.) lining
• Bent, broken, distorted brakeshoes • Replace brakeshoes
• Calipers binding or dragging on • Replace mounting pins and bush¬
mounting pins. Rear brakeshoes ings. Clean rust or burrs from
dragging on support plate. rear brake support plate ledges
and lubricate ledges with molydi-
sulfide grease.
NOTE: If ledges are deeply grooved
or scored, do not attempt to sand or
grind them smooth—replace support
plate.
• Caliper, wheel cylinder, or master • Repair or replace parts as neces¬
cylinder pistons sticking or sary
seized
• Power brake unit vacuum check • Test valve according to the follow¬
valve malfunction ing procedure:
(a) Start engine, increase engine
speed to 1500 rpm, close
throttle and immediately stop
engine
(b) Wait at least 90 seconds then
depress brake pedal
(c) If brakes are not vacuum as¬
sisted for 2 or more applica¬
tions, check valve is faulty
• Power brake unit has internal bind • Test unit according to the following
procedure:
(a) With engine stopped, apply
brakes several times to ex¬
haust all vacuum in system
(b) Shift transmission into neutral,
depress brake pedal and start
engine
(c) If pedal height decreases with
foot pressure and less pres¬
sure is required to hold pedal
in applied position, power unit
vacuum system is operating
normally. Test power unit If
power unit exhibits a bind con¬
dition, replace the power unit.
9-68 BRAKES
Troubleshooting the Brake System (cont.)
Problem Cause Solution
Hard brake pedal (excessive pedal • Master cylinder compensator ports • Repair or replace master cylinder
pressure required to stop vehicle. (at bottom of reservoirs) blocked CAUTION: Do not attempt to clean
May be accompanied by brake by dirt, scale, rust, or have small blocked ports with wire, pencils, or
fade.) burrs (blocked ports prevent fluid similar implements. Use com¬
return to reservoirs). pressed air only.
• Brake hoses, tubes, fittings • Use compressed air to check or
clogged or restricted unclog parts. Replace any dam¬
aged parts.
• Brake fluid contaminated with im¬ • Replace all rubber components,
proper fluids (motor oil, trans¬ combination valve and hoses.
mission fluid, causing rubber Flush entire brake system with
components to swell and stick in DOT 3 brake fluid or equivalent.
bores
• Low engine vacuum • Adjust or repair engine
Dragging brakes (slow or incomplete • Brake pedal binding at pivot • Loosen and lubricate
release of brakes) • Power brake unit has internal bind • Inspect for internal bind. Replace
unit if internal bind exists.
• Parking brake cables incorrrectly • Adjust cables. Replace seized
adjusted or seized cables.
• Rear brakeshoe return springs • Replace return springs. Replace
weak or broken brakeshoe if necessary in axle
sets.
• Automatic adjusters malfunctioning • Repair or replace adjuster parts as
required
• Caliper, wheel cylinder or master • Repair or replace parts as neces¬
cylinder pistons sticking or sary
seized
• Master cylinder compensating • Use compressed air to clear ports.
ports blocked (fluid does not Do not use wire, pencils, or simi¬
return to reservoirs). lar objects to open blocked
ports.
Vehicle moves to one side when • Incorrect front tire pressure • Inflate to recommended cold (re¬
brakes are applied duced load) inflation pressure
• Worn or damaged wheel bearings • Replace worn or damaged bear¬
ings
• Brakelining on one side contami¬ • Determine and correct cause of
nated contamination and replace
brakelining in axle sets
• Brakeshoes on one side bent, dis¬ • Replace brakeshoes in axle sets
torted, or lining loose on shoe
• Support plate bent or loose on one • Tighten or replace support plate
side
• Brakelining not yet seated with • Burnish brakelining
drums or rotors
• Caliper anchor plate loose on one • Tighten anchor plate bolts
side
• Caliper piston sticking or seized • Repair or replace caliper
• Brakelinings water soaked • Drive vehicle with brakes lightly
applied to dry linings
• Loose suspension component • Tighten suspension bolts. Replace
attaching or mounting bolts worn suspension components.
• Brake combination valve failure • Replace combination valve
 BRAKES 9-69
Troubleshooting the Brake System (cont.)
Problem Cause Solution
\
Noisy brakes (squealing, clicking, • Brakelining worn out—shoes con¬ • Replace brakeshoes and lining in
scraping sound when brakes are tacting drum of rotor axle sets. Refinish or replace
applied.) (cont.) drums or rotors.
• Broken or loose holdown or return • Replace parts as necessary
springs
• Rough or dry drum brake support • Lubricate support plate ledges
plate ledges
• Cracked, grooved, or scored • Replace rotor(s) or drum(s).
rotor(s) or drum(s) Replace brakeshoes and lining
in axle sets if necessary.
• Incorrect brakelining and/or shoes • Install specified shoe and lining
(front or rear). assemblies
Pulsating brake pedal • Out of round drums or excessive • Refinish or replace drums,
lateral runout in disc brake re-index rotors or replace
rotor(s)
9-70 BRAKES

TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
Component English Metric
Brake hose fitting to caliper: 33 ft. lbs. 45 Nm
Brake line-to-wheel cylinder: 13 ft. lbs. 17 Nm
Brake lines-to-master cylinder: 13-15 ft. lbs. 17-20 Nm
Brake pedal pivot bolt: 25 ft. lbs. 34 Nm
Bleeder screw:
Caliper screw: 80-140 inch lbs. 9-16 Nm
Wheel cylinder screw: 10-15 ft. lbs. 14-18 Nm
Caliper mounting bolts: 38 ft. lbs. 51 Nm
Failure warning switch: 15-50 inch lbs. 2-6 Nm
Master cylinder retaining nuts: 20 ft. lbs. 27 Nm
Master cylinder piston plug: 80-140 inch lbs. 5-16 Nm
Power booster mounting nuts: 20 ft. lbs. 28 Nm
Proportioner valves: 18-30 ft. lbs. 25-40 Nm
Rear hub & bearing retaining bolts: 38 ft. lbs. 51 Nm
Wheel cylinder mounting bolt: 15 ft. lbs. 20 Nm
Wheel lug nuts: 100 ft. lbs. 140 Nm
Anti-Lock Brake Components:
Bleeder valve: 65 inch lbs. 7 Nm
Brake pipes to the modulator: 13 ft. lbs. 17 Nm
Front speed sensor:
Except 6000 AWD: 106 inch lbs. 12 Nm
6000 AWD: 53 inch lbs. 6 Nm
Lock bolt: 18 inch lbs. 2 Nm
Hydraulic modulator solenoid bolts: 39 inch lbs. 5 Nm
Hydraulic modulator to mount: 38 ft. lbs. 52 Nm
Rear speed sensor: 80 inch lbs. 9 Nm
Vacuum booster nuts: 20 ft. lbs. 27 Nm
AUTOMOTIVE GLOSSARY 10-31
EXTERIOR
Antenna 10-8
Bumpers 10-6
Doors 10-2
Fenders 10-8
Grille 10-7
Hood 10-3
Outside Mirrors 10-7
Spare tire carrier 10-
Tailgate, Hatch, Trunk Lid 10-5
INTERIOR
Console 10-10
Door glass & regulator 10-18
Door locks 10-15
Door panels 10-10
Electric window motor 10-21
Headliner 10-13
Inside mirror 10-23
Instrument Panel & Pad 10-9
Interior trim panels 10-
Power seat motor 10-25
Seat belt systems 10-26
Seats 10-23
Vent windows 10- Exterior 10-2
Windshield glass 10-21
Interior 10-9
STAIN REMOVAL 10-29
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS 10-30 Stain Removal 10-29
 10-2 BODY
EXTERIOR

Doors
* SEE FIGS. 1 to 6

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

STRAP ASSEMBLY
1. Open the door and support it securely. UPPER HINGE STRAP ASSEMBLY
2. On doors equipped with power operated BODY SIDE UPPER HINGE
components, proceed as follows. DOOR SIDE

a. Remove the door trim panel, insulator

,hinge spring
pad (if so equipped) and inner panel water
HOLD-OPEN LINK
deflector.
b. Disconnect the wiring harness from all hinge pin
components in door.
c. Remove rubber conduit from door,
STRAP ASSEMBLY
then remove wire harness from door through STRAP ASSEMBLY LOWER HINGE
conduit access hole. LOWER HINGE DOOR SIDE
3. Tape the area around the door pillar and BODY SIDE
body pillar (below the upper hinge) with cloth
backed body tape.

« CAUTION VIEW A

Before performing the following FIG. 1 Front door hinge system

step, cover the door spring with a
towel to prevent the spring from
flying out and possibly causing
personal injury or damaging the
car.

4. Insert a long flat-bladed lever underneath

the pivot point of the hold-open link and overtop
of the spring. The lever should be positioned so
FIG.2 Door hinge spring compressor tool
as not to apply pressure to the hold-open link.
Cover spring with shop cloth and lift screwdriver
to disengage spring. Spring can also be removed
using tool No. J-28625, door hinge spring b. As pin is removed, clip will ride the
compressor tool, or equivalent. Proceed as shank of the pin and fall free.
follows: c. Reinstall clips onto pins before
a. Install two jaws of tool over spring. installing the door. p» Before Installing door, replace
Jaw with slot slides over spring at hold-open 6. With the aid of an assistant, to support the hinge pin clips or reuse old clips as
link. Jaw with hole fits over spring at bubble door, remove the lower hinge pin using soft explained in the removal
on door hinge pillar. headed hammer and locking type pliers. procedure.
b. Install bolt to jaws of tool and tighten to Assistant can aid in removal of hinge pins by
9. With the aid of an assistant, position the
compress spring. raising and lowering rear of door.
door and insert a small bolt in the upper hole of
c. Remove tool and spring from door 7. Insert 1V4 in. x IV2 in. bolt into upper
the lower hinge.
hinge assembly. Do not remove spring from hole of lower hinge to maintain door
attachment during upper hinge pin removal. 10. The upper hinge pin is installed with the
tool.
pointed end up. The lower hinge pin is installed
5. If replacement hinge pin barrel clips are not 8. Remove upper hinge pin in same
with the pointed end down. With the door in the
available, save the clips as follows: manner as lower. Remove screw from lower
full open position, install the upper hinge pin
a. Using two small flat-bladed tools, hinge and remove door from body.
using locking type pliers and a soft-headed
spread each clip just enough to move clip over hammer. Use a drift punch and hammer to
recess, toward the pointed end of the pin. complete installation.
 BODY 10-3
e. Remove bolt from tool to Install the
spring.
f. Remove the tool from the door hinge
(tool will fall out in three pieces). Open and
close door to check for proper operation of the
spring.
If tool No. J-28625 or equivalent
was used to remove spring, follow
steps d, e and f to Install the spring.
13. Remove the tape from the door and body
pillars.
14. On doors with power operated
components, Install the wire harness to the door
through conduit access hole and install the
rubber conduit to the door.
FIG.4 Installing door side hinge straps 15. Connect the wiring harness to each
component in the door.
16. Install the Inner panel water deflector.
11. Remove the screw from the lower hinge 17. Install the insulator pad and the door trim
and Install the lower hinge pin. Use of tool No. panel.
J—28625 or equivalent is the recommended
method for installing the hinge spring.
r+ If spring Is Installed before STRIKER ADJUSTMENT
Installing upper hinge pin, hinge
bushings may be damaged. * SEE FIG. 7
The striker has provisions for fore and aft
12. If spring was removed using a
screwdriver, install as follows: adjustment only.
1. Insert tool No. J—23457, BT7107 or
a. Place spring in tool No. J—28625 or
equivalent. equivalent Into the star shaped recess in the
head of the striker and loosen the bolt.
b. Place tool and spring in a bench vise.
2. Shift striker as required, then tighten the
c. Compress tool in vise and Install bolt
bolt 34-46 ft. ibs.
until spring is fully compressed.
d. Remove tool (with compressed spring)
from vise and install in proper position in door
upper hinge. Slot in one jaw of tool fits over Hood
hold-open link. Hole on other Jaw fits over
bubble on hinge.
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

t SEE FIGS. 9 to 11
1. Raise the hood. Install protective
coverings over the fenders, to prevent damage to
paint and moldings when removing or installing
the hood.
2. Disconnect the underhood lamp wire.
3. Mark the position of the hinge on the hood
to Lid in alignment when hood is reinstalled.
4. With the hood supported, remove the hinge
to hood screws on each side of the hood.
5. Remove the hood.
To Install:
6. Align the hood with the marks made during
removal.
7. Install the hood to hinge screws on each
side of the hood and torque to 20 ft. Ibs.
8. Connect the underhood lamp wire.
10-4 BODY
TAPPED CAGE
PLATE

FIG.7 Installing the door striker bolt

FIG.8 Hood assembly

1. Pin
2. Nut
3. Washer
4. Bolt
5. Hinge bracket
6. Hinge strap

INBOARD

FIG.10 Hood hinge replacement

HOOD LATCH BOLT ASM

54.0mm
(I'/s INCH)

VIEW A

HOOD INR

I 30.0mm i [
22.0mm
(7/e INCH)
Ws4 INCH^j
BUMPER ASM
HOOD BUMPER
VIEW C

RADSUPT- VIEW B

FIG.11 Adjustment for the hood

 BODY 10-5
ALIGNMENT ADJUSTMENT

Fore and aft adjustment made be made at the Fore and aft adjustment of the lid assembly is
hinge-to-hood attaching screws. Vertical controlled by the hinge-to-lid attaching bolts. To
adjustment at the front may be made by adjust the lid, loosen the hinge-to-lid attaching
adjusting the rubber bumpers up or down. bolts and shift the lid to the desired position; then
tighten the bolts to 20 ft. lbs.
Trunk Lid
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
Lift Gate/Hatch

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

t SEE FIGS. 12 to 15
1. Prop the lid open and place protective
covering along the edges of the rear 1. Open and support the lift gate in the full
compartment opening to prevent damage to the open position.
painted areas.
2. Where necessary, disconnect the wiring
harness from the lid.
3. Mark the location of the hinge strap
attaching bolts to lid.
4. While a helper supports the lid, remove the
hinge to iid bolts and remove the lid.
5. Reverse steps 1 through 4 to install the lid. 1. Pinchweld Flange
2. Weatherstrip
6. Torque the hinge-to-lid attaching bolts to
3. Adhesive
20 ft. lbs.

FIG.14 Back body opening weatherstrip

1. Glass-lift gate pivot

2. Handle
3. Gaskets
4. Striker
5. Hinge assembly
6. Gasket
7. Retaining nut

VIEW A

FIG.15 Lift gate pivot glass handle and striker assembly

10-6 BODY
2. Remove the lid and body side retaining 6. Remove the 8 retaining screws and bolts
clips from the ends of the gas support
Bumpers from the impact bar and remove the impact bar
assemblies. from its reinforcements.
3. Disengage the attachment at each end of 7. To install, reverse steps 1 through 6.
the support and remove from body.
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Rear
4. On styles with heated glass or rear wiper-
washer system, disconnect the wiring harness 1. Remove the 2 push-on retainer clips from
and hose from the washer assembly. each end of the molding, then remove the
5. Using a 5/32 in. (4mm) diameter rod, place Front molding.
the end of the rod against the pointed end of the 1. Remove the 4 retaining screws in each of 2. Remove the 4 wing nuts and electrical
hinge pin; then strike rod firmly to shear retaining the head light bezels and remove the bezels. connectors from each of the tail lamp
clip tabs and drive pin through hinge. Repeat 2. Raise the car and support it securely. assemblies and remove the left and right tail
operation on the opposite side hinge and with the 3. Remove the 6 push-on retainers from the lamp assemblies.
aid of a helper remove the lift gate from the body. bottom of the bumper and remove the 6 screws 3. Remove the 5 wing nuts, disconnect the
6. To install, reverse the above process. Prior holding the retainer to each fender. electrical connector and remove the backup light
to installing hinge pins, install new retaining clips 4. Remove the 4 push-on retainers from the assembly.
in notches provided in hinge pins. Position outer molding and partially remove the outer 4. Open the trunk and remove the 2 retaining
retaining clips so that tabs point toward head of molding from the fenders. nuts from the left and right side reflectors, then
pin. 5. Remove the 2 sheet metal screws from the remove the reflectors.
center bumper retainer, then remove the front 5. Remove the 7 retaining pins from the
bumper. valance panel and remove the panel.

10. Nut 17 ft. lbs. (23

6. Front face bar Nm)
1. Front bumper fascia backing plate 11. Guard assembly
2. Front bumper face 7. Energy absorber 12. Screw/bolt 53 inch
bar assembly lbs. (6 Nm)
3. Upper supports 8. Bolt 20 ft. lbs. (27 13. Fender assembly
4. Push retainer Nm) 14. Retainer plate
5. Front bumper 9. Energy absorber 15. Push retainers
molding reinforcement 16. Lower support

FIG.17 Front bumper assembly - rear bumper similar

 BODY 10-7
6. Disconnect the electrical connector and
remove the 8 retaining nuts, 4 retaining bolts and
11 retaining pins from the rear bumper and
remove the bumper.
7. Disconnect the electrical connector, and
remove the 8 retaining nuts from the impact bar
and energy absorber.
8. Remove the 8 retaining clips and remove
the impact bar from the mounting support
bracket.
9. To install, reverse steps 1 through 8.

Grille

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

1. Remove the 8 retaining screws from the

grille assembly.
2. Remove the grille from the front end panel.
3. To install; position the grille in the front end
panel and install the retaining screws.

Mirrors

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

Standard
1. Remove the doortrim panel and detach the
inner panel water deflector. With the glass in the
down position, pull out the front portion of the
glass run weather strip.
2. Remove the attaching bolts and screws
from the front glass run channel lower retainer to
filler and rotate retainer rearward.
3. Remove the noise control patch to gain
access to the 7mm screw at the belt and remove
the screw.
4. Remove the filler attaching screws at the
top front cf the window frame and remove the
mirror and filler from the door.
5. Remove the attaching nuts from the mirror
base studs and remove the mirror. 2. With the glass in the down position, pull 6. Remove the mirror base with mirror and
6. To install, reverse steps 1 through 5. Be out the front portion of the glass run weather cable assembly from the door.
sure that the mirror gasket is aligned. strip. 7. Remove the mirror to filler attaching nuts
3. Remove the attaching bolts and screws and remove the mirror and cable from filler.
Manual Remote Control 8. To install, reverse steps 1 through 6. Be
from the front glass run channel lower retainer to
1. Remove the mirror remote control filler and rotate retainer rearward. sure cable is routed around front glass run
escutcheons and door trim panel. Detach the 4. Remove the noise control patch to gain channel retainer and installed to clip. Torque nuts
inner panel water deflector. access to the 7mm screw at the belt and remove to 72 inch lbs.
Right side remote mirror may the screw.
5. Remove the filler attaching screws at the Electric Remote Control
require detaching part of the
instrument panel. top front of the window frame. 1. Remove the mirror remote control
10-8 BODY
escutcheons and door trim panel. Detach the
inner panel water deflector and the electrical Antenna Fenders
connector for the mirror.
Right side remote mirror may
require detaching part of the REMOVAL & INSTALLATION REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
instrument panel.
2. With the glass in the down position, pull 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
out the front portion of the glass run weather Manual 2. It may be easier to service the fender with
strip. 1. Working from underneath the dash, the hood removed.
3. Remove the attaching bolts and screws disconnect the antenna cable from the radio. 3. Remove the wiper arms.
from the front glass run channel lower retainer to 4. Remove the cowl vent panel to gain
2. Unscrew the antenna from the fender and
filler and rotate retainer rearward. access to the upper fender-to-cowl bolts.
remove it, with the cable, from the car.
4. Remove the noise control patch to gain 3. To install, reverse the above process.
access to the 7mm screw at the belt and remove j*-

the screw. Power Warning: ♦An outer fender panel

5. Remove the filler attaching screws at the with plastic inner panel may be
See Section 6 Radio and Antenna, for
top front of the window frame. used. Care must be taken In
additional information on power antenna removal handling the unsupported fender
6. Remove the mirror base with mirror and and installation.
electric connector from the door. due to the lack of rigidity prior to
1. Remove the screw securing the antenna
7. Remove the mirror to filler attaching nuts installation.
bracket to the support bracket.
and remove the mirror and electric wire from 2. Disconnect the antenna lead wire to 5. Disconnect and remove the headlamp wire
filler. connector.
antenna wire.
8. To install, reverse steps 1 through 6. Be 3. Disconnect the ground lead from the 6. Disconnect and remove the side marker
sure electric wire is routed around front glass lamp connector.
harness assembly by removing the attaching
run channel retainer and installed to the clip. 7. Remove the rocker panel molding, as
screw.
Torque nuts to 72 inch lbs. necessary.
4. Disconnect the rear quarter harness
assembly wiring feed relay. 8. Remove the wheelhouse panel bolts.
5. Remove nut, bezel and gasket over top of 9. Remove the screws attaching the front end
antenna. Remove the antenna through the panel to the fender.
bottom of the hole in the quarter panel. 10. With the fender removed carefully
6. To install, reverse steps 1 through 5. remove the molding and name plates.

1. Fender assembly
2. Retainer
3. Bolt/Screw 13 inch
lbs. (1.5 Nm)
4. Cap
5. Wheel housing panel

FIG.18 Fender wheelhouse panel mounting

 BODY 10-9
To install: 12. Install the fender assembly and tighten 15. Install the headlamp and marker lamp
11. Transfer fender moldings and nameplates attaching bolts to 88 inch lbs. (10 Nm). wiring and connectors.
to new fender. 13. Install the lower valance if removed and 16. Install the cowl vent panel and wiper
If the fender Is not primed or tighten bolts to 18 inch lbs. (2 Nm). arms.
undercoated as you desire It may 14. Install the wheelhouse panel and the 17. Install the hood if removed and connect
be better to have this procedure rocker panel if used. the battery cable.
done to the fender before
Installation.

INTERIOR

4. Remove the right side hush panel retaining electrical connectors and install the retaining
Instrument Cluster screws and nut. screws.
5. Remove the shift indicator cable clip. 12. Position the steering column and install
There is additional information on instrument
6. Remove the steering column trim plate. the retaining bolts.
panel and switches in Section 6 covering
7. Put the gear selector in L. Remove the 13. Connect the parking brake cable at the
electrical components.
retaining screws and gently pull out the lever.
instrument panel trim plate. 14. Put the gear selector in L. Install the
8. Disconnect the parking brake cable at the instrument panel trim plate.
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION lever by pushing it forward and sliding it from its 15. Install the steering column trim plate.
slot. 16. Install the shift indicator cable clip.
9. Unbolt and lower the steering column. 17. Install the right side hush panel retaining
Century 10. Remove the gauge cluster retaining screws and nut.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. screws. Pull the cluster out far enough to 18. Install the left side hush panel retaining
2. Disconnect the speedometer cable and disconnect any wires. Remove the instrument screws and nut.
pull it through the firewall. cluster. 19. Pull the speedometer cable through the
3. Remove the left side hush panel retaining To Install: firewall and connect to the speedometer.
screws and nut. 11. Install the gauge cluster, connect the 20. Connect the negative battery cable.
 10-10 BODY
Celebrity 11. Install the 4 screws attaching cluster behind glove box. Connect instmment panel
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. assembly to instmment panel. harness at cowl.
2. Remove instrument panel hush panel. 12. Connect shift indicator clip to steering 17. Connect temperature control cable, inner-
3. Remove vent control housing, as required. column shift bowl. to-outer air conditioning wire harness and inner-
4. On non-air conditioning vehicles, remove 13. Install the steering column trim cover. to-outer air conditioning vacuum harness, if
steering column trim cover screws and lower 14. Connect the speedometer cable at the equipped.
transaxle or cruise control transducer, if 18. Raise the steering column and install
cover with vent cables attached. On air
equipped. retaining bolts.
conditioning vehicles, remove trim cover
15. Install the instmment panel cluster trim 19. Install right side and left side hush panels,
attaching screws and remove cover.
cover. steering column trim cover and connect parking
5. Remove instrument cluster trim pad.
16. Install the left instmment panel trim pad. brake cable and vent cables, if equipped.
6. Remove ash tray, retainer and fuse block,
disconnect wires as necessary. 17. Connect the negative battery cable. 20. Install the instmment cluster lens.
7. Remove headlight switch knob and 21. Install the screws holding the instmment
6000 cluster to the instmment panel earner.
instrument panel trim plate. Disconnect electrical
connectors of any accessory switches in trim 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable, and 22. Install the center and left side lower
plate. remove the center and left side lower instmment instmment panel trim plate.
8. Remove cluster assembly and disconnect panel trim plate. 23. Connect the negative battery cable.
speedometer cable, PRNDL and cluster 2. Remove the screws holding the instmment
electrical connectors. cluster to the instmment panel carrier.
To Install: 3. Remove the instmment cluster lens to gain Console
9. Install cluster assembly and connect access to the speedometer head and gauges.
speedometer cable, PRNDL and cluster 4. Remove right side and left side hush
electrical connectors. panels, steering column trim cover and
10. Install headlight switch knob and disconnect parking brake cable and vent cables, REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
instrument panel trim plate. Connect electrical if equipped.
connectors of any accessory switches In trim 5. Remove steering column retaining bolts
and drop steering column. 1. Remove the shifter knob from the shifter
plate. by removing the retaining screw at the back of
11. Install ash tray, retainer and fuse block, 6. Disconnect temperature control cable,
the knob.
connect electrical connectors. inner-to-outer air conditioning wire harness and
2. Remove the screws at the sides and front
12. Install instrument cluster trim pad. inner-to-outer air conditioning vacuum harness,
if equipped. of the console.
13. On non-air conditioned vehicles, raise the 3. Open the console box and remove the
7. Disconnect chassis harness behind left
cover with vent cables attached and install retaining screw inside the box.
steering column trim cover screws. On air lower instmment panel and ECM connectors
behind glove box. Disconnect instmment panel 4. Remove the ashtray at the rear of the
conditioned vehicles, install trim cover and console and remove the retaining screw behind
harness at cowl.
attaching screws. the ashtray.
8. Remove center instmment panel trim
14. If removed, install vent control housing. 5. Slide the console rearward slightly, then lift
plate, radio, if equipped, and disconnect neutral
15. Install instrument panel hush panel. it over the shifter.
switch and brake light switch.
16. Connect the negative battery cable. 6. To install, reverse the above process.
9. Remove upper and lower instmment panel
Ciera and Cruiser retaining screws, nuts and bolts.
10. Pull instmment panel assembly out far
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Remove left instmment panel trim pad. enough to disconnect ignition switch, headlight Door Panels
dimmer switch and turn signal switch.
2. Remove instmment panel cluster trim
cover. Disconnect all other accessory wiring and
vacuum lines necessary to remove instmment
3. Disconnect speedometer cable at REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
panel assembly.
transaxle or cruise control transducer, if
equipped. 11. Remove instmment panel assembly with
wiring harness.
4. Remove steering column trim cover. 1. Remove all door inside handles.
To install: 2. Remove door inside locking rod knob.
5. Disconnect shift indicator clip from
steering column shift bowl. 12. Install instrument panel assembly with 3. Remove screws inserted through door
wiring harness.
6. Remove 4 screws attaching cluster armrest and pull handle assembly into door inner
assembly to instmment panel. 13. Connect ignition switch, headlight panel or armrest hanger support bracket.
dimmer switch and turn signal switch. Connect
7. Pull assembly out far enough to reach 4. On styles with remote control mirror
behind cluster and disconnect speedometer all other accessory wiring and vacuum lines.
assemblies, remove remote mirror escutcheons
cable. 14. Install upper and lower instmment panel and disengage end of mirror control cable from
retaining screws, nuts and bolts. escutcheons.
8. Remove cluster assembly.
To Install: 15. Connect neutral switch and brake light 5. On styles with power window controls
9. Install the cluster assembly. switch. Install the radio, if equipped, and install located in the door trim assembly, disconnect
10. Connect the speedometer cable. center instrument panel trim plate. the wire harness at the switch assembly.
16. Connect chassis harness behind left 6. Remove the remote control handle
lower instmment panel and ECM connectors escutcheons screws.
 BODY 10-11
7. On styles with integral armrests, remove
the screws inserted through the pull cup into the
armrest hanger support.
8. Remove screws and plastic retainers from
the perimeter of the door trim pad using tool BT-
7323A or equivalent and a screwdriver. To
remove the door trim panel, push trim upward
and outboard to disengage it from the door inner
panel at the belt line..
9. On styles with courtesy lamps located in FIG.20 Removing clip retained door Inside handle
the lower area of the trim panel, disconnect the
wiring harness at the lamp assembly.
10-12 BODY

FIG.23 Power window control switch assembly

SECTION B-B

SCREWS

DOOR TRIM PAO

FIG.24 Door trim panel removal and installation

 BODY 10-13
*+ Before Installing the door trim
panel, check that all trim retainers
are securely installed to the panel
and are not damaged. Replace
damaged retainers as required.
10. Connect electrical components where
present.
11. To install the door trim panel, pull door
inside handle inward; then position the trim panel
to the inner panel, inserting door handle through
hole in panel.
12. Position the trim panel to the door inner
panel so trim retainers are aligned with the
attaching holes in the panel and tap the retainers
into the holes with a clean mbber mallet Install
all previously removed items.

Headliner
% SEE FIGS. 30 to 32

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Remove the dome lamp, courtesy lamp,
coat hooks and sunvisors.
3. Remove the quarter upper trim finishing
panels using tool J—24595—C.
4. Remove the rear seat roof mounted
shoulder belt retainers, as needed.
5. Remove the windshield pillar upper side
roof rail and garnish moldings.
6. Remove the headlining hook and loop
strips along the front and on the sear using tool
FIG.27 Front door courtesy and warning lamp assembly, coupe shown J-2772-C.
7. Push in the retainers and retainers from
rear of the headliner, on wagons.
8. Remove assembly through the right front
door opening.
To Install:
9. Care must be taken not to over flex new
liner when installing. Load the rear portion of the
lining diagonally through the right front door
opening.
10. Align the headlining with holes for

r
J 2772-C
•”
o

FIG.30 Headliner tool J-2772-C

10-14 BODY

35 AND 69 STYLE

37 STYLE

1. Molding
2. Retaining clip
3. Tab
4. Fastener

^—tn

FIG.31 Interior windshield pillar trim

 BODY 10-15

holding door ajar switch to lock and disconnect

the connector from the lock. Power Lock Actuator
4, Remove the lock screws and lower the
lock to disengage the outside handle to lock rod.
Remove the lock from the door. REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
5. To install, first install the spring clips to the
lock assembly, then reverse steps 1 through 4.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Torque the door lock attaching screws to 80-
100 inch lbs. 2. Remove the door trim panel and water
deflector.
3. Raise the window.
4. Locate the rivets holding the actuator.
Drive out the rivets center pins, then drill out the
sunvisors and interior lamps. Press into place rivets using a V< in. (6mm) drill bit.
along areas with hook and loop strips.
11. Install the retainers and push-in retainers
to the rear of the headlining, on wagons.
12. Install the sunvisors and interior lamps.
13. Install the windshield pillar upper and
side roof rail garnish moldings.
14. Install the rear shoulder belt retainers, if
needed.
15. Install the quarter trim finishing panels.
16. Install the coat hooks.
17. Make certain no wires for lamps are
pinched or installed incorrectly.
18. Connect the negative battery cable.

Door Locks

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

1. Raise door window. Remove door trim

panel and inner panel water deflector.
2. Disengage the inside lock rod, the inside
handle to lock rod, the lock cylinder to lock rod
and the power lock actuator rod (power locks
only) from the lock assembly.
3. On 2AG19 styles, remove the screw
10-16 BODY
r+ Some vehicle’s door lock actuator To Install: certain to install the clips with the clinch nuts on
are retained with 3/16 In. rivets and 7. Fit the actuator through the door access the outboard side of the retainers.
will require the use of a 3/16 In. drill hole and install the actuator to the lock rod. 9. Reconnect the electrical connector to the
bit. 8. Fastened the actuator to the inner panel actuator.
5. Remove the actuator from the lock rod. using V4 x Vz in. aluminum peel type rivets. If 10. Install the door trim panel and water
6. Disconnect the actuator electrical rivets are not available, install U-clips on the deflector, as required.
connector and remove the actuator from the regulator at the metal retainer locations. Be 11. Reconnect the negative battery cable.
door.

Inside handle
Inside locking knob
to lock rod
Shoe
Lock
Inside handle to lock
rod
Bell crank rivet
Bell crank
Power lock actuator
to bell crank rod
Power lock actuator
rivet
Power lock actuator
inside handle rivet
Inside locking knob
Outside handle

VIEW B

FIG.34 Door lock system components - rear door shown

BODY 10-17
10-18 BODY

Tailgate Electric Lock

Actuator

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Open the tailgate as a door, then position
the glass fully upwards.
3. Remove the tailgate handle, inner trim
panel and water deflector.
4. Remove the right side access hole cover
and disconnect the actuator electrical connector.
5. Locate the rivets holding the actuator.
Drive out the rivets center pins, then drill out the
rivets using a V4 in. (6mm) drill bit.
6. Remove the actuator and rod from the
upper lock lever.
To install:
7. Install the actuator assembly and
reconnect the upper lock lever.
8. Secure the actuator using V4—20 x * 1 2 3 4 5 6 7/16 in.
screws and nuts.
9. Reconnect the electrical connector and
install the access hole cover.
10. Install the water deflector, inner trim
panel and tailgate handle.
11. Reconnect the negative battery cable.

Door Glass and

Regulator

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

Door Glass (Coupe)

1. Remove the door trim panel and inner
panel water deflector.
2. Raise the window to the full up position
and tape glass to door frame using cloth-backed
tape.
3. Remove the bolts holding the lower sash
channel to the regulator sash.
4. Remove the rubber down stop at the
bottom of the door by pulling carefully. from the glass run channel retainer. Slide the before installing the trim parts, check the
5. Attach the regulator handle and run the glass forward and tilt slightly to remove the guide window for proper operation and alignment.
regulator to the full down position. Remove the from the retainer in the run channel.
regulator sash by rotating 90° and pulling 7. Using care, raise the glass while tilting
outboard. forward and remove glass inboard of the upper Door Glass (Sedan)
6. While supporting the glass, remove the frame. 1. Remove the door trim panel and inner
tape and lower the window to the full down 8. To install, reverse steps 1 through 7. Use panel water deflector:
position. Disengage the front edge of the glass liquid soap solution on the rubber down stop 2. Raise the window to the full up position
 BODY 10-19
and tape glass to door frame using cloth-backed
tape.
3. Remove the bolts holding the lower sash
channel to the regulator sash.
4. Attach the regulator handle and run the
regulator to the full down position.
5. While supporting the glass, remove the
tape and lower the window to the half down
position.
6. Wrap tape around the blade of tool BT-
7323A or equivalent Insert tool between the
guide and glass at the fastener and carefully pry
apart.
7. Using care, raise the glass while tilting
forward and remove glass inboard of the upper
frame.
8. Remove guide from the rear of the run
channel weatherstrip metal retainer and discard
guide.
9. Replace guide on glass in the following
manner:
a. Heat guide with hot air gun or soak in
hot water for about one minute.
b. Install guide to glass by aligning to hole
in glass and carefully press guide together at
fastener location.
10. Install glass and lower about halfway.
11. With one hand on bottom edge, rotate
glass rearward to snap guide into retainer.
12. To complete installation, reverse the
remainder of the removal process.

Regulator
1. Remove the door trim panel and inner
panel water deflector.
2. Raise the window to the full up position
and tape glass to doorframe using cloth-backed
tape.
3. Remove the lower sash bolts.
4. Punch out center pins of regulator rivet.
Drill out rivets using V* in. (6mm) drill bit.
5. For manual regulators, remove the
regulator through the rear access hole. For
electric regulator, remove the glass as stated
previously. Move the regulator and motor
assembly rearward and remove the electric
connector. Remove the regulator and motor
assembly through the rear access hole.
6. To install, use hand rivet tool J—29002 or
equivalent and install the regulator to the inner
panel using V4 in. x V2 in. aluminum peel type
rivets, part No. 9436175 or equivalent.
7. If hand rivet tool is not available, install U-
clips on regulator at three attaching locations. Be
sure to install clips with cinch nuts on outboard
side of retainers.
8. Slide the regulator through the rear access
hole and align the regulator attaching clips with
the holes in the inner panel. Attach regulator
FIG.40 Front door window electric window regulator metal retainers with V4 in—20 x V2 in. screws.
Attach housing part of regulator with V4 in—20 x
10-20 BODY

1. Door belt reveal 12. Front inner panel belt

molding with integral sealing strip filler 21. Inside locking to lock
sealing strip 13. Lock remote control rod shoe guide
2. Window glass run handle assembly 22. Inside locking to lock
channel assembly 14. Regulator sash rod
3. Window guide 15. Manual window 23. Lock remote control
4. Door glass regulator assembly to lock rod
5. Outside handle 16. Over slam bumper 24. Inside locking knob
6. Lock cylinder 17. Lock assembly 25. Lock cylinder to lock
7. Lock cylinder gasket 18. Window regulator rod
8. Lock cylinder retainer handle 26. Electric lock actuator
9. Rear inner panel belt 19. Electrical conduit 27. Electric window
sealing strip filler hole plug regulator assembly
10. Lower sash channel 20. Outside handle to 28. Glass run channel
11. Filler assembly lock rod lower front retainer

FIG.41 Front door components

 BODY 10-21
Vz in. screws into Vi in. nuts with integral cause of the crack may be an obstruction or high
washers! Torque bolts 90-125 inch lbs. spot around the flange. This could cause the
9. Install the lower sash bolts. replacement to crack, especially after
10. Remove the tape from the door glass and temperature changes when the windshield needs
frame. to flex and can’t.
11. Install the inner panel water deflector and When a windshield is broken, the glass may
door trim panel. have already fallen or been removed from the
weatherstriping. Other times it is necessary to
remove a cracked windshield that is still intact.
Electric Window Motor In this case, it is a good idea to crisscross the
glass with strips of tape before removing it, this
will help hold the glass together and minimize
the risk of injury.
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION If a crack extends to the edge of the glass,
mark the point where the crack meets the
weather strip. Later examine the window flange
1. Remove the door trim panel and inner at this point for the possible cause of the
panel water deflector. windshield crack.
2. Raise the window to the full up position The higher temperature of the work area, the
and tape glass to doorframe using cloth-backed more pliable the weather strip will be. The more
tape. pliable the weather strip the easier the
3. Remove the lower sash bolts. windshield can be removed. windshield supports, rear view mirror and the
4. Punch out center pins of regulator rivet. There are 2 methods of removing the interior garnish moldings.
Drill out rivets using V4 in. (6mm) drill bit. windshield depending on the method of
pp If equipped with the radio
5. Move regulator and motor assembly windshield replacement chosen. When using the
antenna embedded in the
rearward and remove electrical connector. short method of installation, it is important to cut
windshield, disconnect the
6. With the regulator in the door, drill out the the glass from the urethane adhesive as close to
electrical connector at the base of
regulator to motor rivets using a 3/16 in. (5mm) the glass as possible. THis is due to the fact that
the windshield.
drill bit and remove the motor. the urethane adhesive will be used to provide a
7. To install, reverse steps 1 through 6. Use base for the replacement windshield. When 3. Remove the exterior reveal molding from
y16 in. rivets or3/16 in. nuts and bolts to install the using the extended method, all the urethane the urethane adhesive by prying one end of the
motor to the regulator. adhesive must be removed from the pinchweld molding from the adhesive.
flange so the process of cutting the window from
the adhesive is less critical.
❖❖ CAUTION
Windshield Glass Removal
If you work on any vehicle glass
| SEE FIGS. 42 to 47 pp The following procedure requires always wear eye protection and
pp Bonded windshields require the use of the urethane glass gloves, to reduce the risk of Injury.
special tools and procedures to sealant remover or hot knife tool J-
ensure the windshield will be 24709-1 or equivalent and/or tool
removed without being broken. J-24402-A or equivalent. 4. Using the urethane glass sealant remover
Also it may be very difficult to 1. Place the protective covering around the (hot knife) J—24709 and the glass sealant
provide a quite windshield air seal area will the glass will be removed. remover tool J—24402—A or equivalents, cut the
or water tight seal. For this reason 2. Remove the wiper arms, cowl vent grille, windshield from the urethane adhesive. If the
it is recommended you refer to a
qualified technician.

CAUTION
If you work on any vehicle glass
always wear eye protection and
gloves, to reduce the risk of Injury.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

When replacing the windshield check for the

reason it was damaged in the first place. The
10-22 BODY

short method of replacement is to be used, keep

the knife as close to the glass as possible in
order to leave a base for the replacement glass.
5. With the help of an assistant, remove the
glass.
6. If the original glass is to be reinstalled,
place it on a protected bench or make a holding
device. Remove any remaining adhesive with a
razor blade. Any remaining traces of adhesive
material can be removed with denatured alcohol
or lacquer thinner.
DO NOT use any petroleum based
solvents, this will prevent the
adhesion of the new material. Don’t
allow solvents to contact the
plastic or any non-glass areas to
avoid discoloration.
Inspection
Check the opening for the new glass. If a
reason why the windshield broke is not known
look carefully around the edges for a reason.
Inspection the flange for any imperfections.
Check the replacement glass for chips or
cracks. Small chips can be grounded off,
restoring a smooth edge to the glass and
minimizing concentrations of pressure that may
cause breakage. Don’t remove any more than
necessary, you must maintain the original shape
of the glass and the proper clearance between
the glass and the flange opening.
 BODY 10-23
urethane adhesive while holding it against the
edge of the windshield. Take care to seat the
molding in the comers. The lip must fully contact
the adhesive adhesive and the gap must be
entirely coverd by the crown of the molding.
Slide the molding caps onto the adjacent
moldings. Use tape to hold the molding in
position until the adhesive cures.
11. Install the wiper arms, cowling and
interior garnish moldings.

Inside Rear View Mirror

Short method Installation moldings. Use tape to hold the molding in REPLACEMENT
1. Using masking tape, apply the tape across position until the adhesive cures.
the windshield pillar-to-windshield opening, then 9. Install the wiper arms, cowling and interior The inside rear view mirror is permanently
cut the tape and remove the windshield. garnish moldings. attached to the windshield. Should replacement
2. Using an alcohol dampened cloth, clean Extended method Installation become necessary, refer to your local dealer or
the metal flange surrounding the windshield a qualified technician for service.
1. Using GM Strip Filler No. 20146247 or
opening. Allow the alcohol to air dry.
equivalent, install the sealing strip onto the
3. Using pinchweld primer, found in the
pinchweld flange. The joint of the molding should
installation service kits, apply to pinchweld area.
be located a the bottom center of the molding.
Don’t let any of the primer touch the exposed
2. Using masking tape, apply the tape across
Seats
paint, it wil! damage the finish.. Allow primer to
the windshield pillar-to-windshield opening, then
dry.
cut the tape and remove the windshield.
4. Cut the tip of the adhesive cartridge y16 in.
(5mm) from end of tip. 3. Using an alcohol dampened cloth, clean REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
the metal flange surrounding the windshield
5. Apply adhesive first in and around the
opening. Allow the alcohol to air dry.
spacer blocks. Apply a smooth continuous bead
4. Using pinchweld primer, found in the
into the gap between the glass edge and the Front
installation service kits, apply to pinchweld area.
sheet metal. Use a flat tool to paddle the material 1. Position the seat in the full forward
Don’t let any of the primer touch the exposed
into position as necessary. Be sure the adhesive position. If the car is equipped with six-way
paint, it will damage the finish.. Allow primer to
contacts the entire edge of the glass and extends power seats, place the seat in the full forward
dry.
to fill the gap between the glass and the solidified
5. With aid from a helper, position the glass and up position. When necessary to gain access
urethane base.
on the filler strips against the 2 support spacers. to the adjuster-to-floor pan attaching nuts,
6. With aid from a helper, position the glass
remove
6. Cut the tip of the adhesive cartridge * 1 2 3 4 5/s in. the adjuster rear foot covers and or
on the filler strips against the 2 support spacers. carpet retainers.
(10mm) from end of tip.
The vehicle must remain at room 7. Apply adhesive first in and around the 2. Remove the track covers where
temperature for at least 6 hours. If spacer blocks. Apply a smooth continuous bead necessary; then remove the adjuster-to-floor pan
can’t be driven during the time. into the gap between the glass edge and the rear attaching nuts. Position the seat in the full
7. Spray a mist of water onto the urethane. sheet metal. Use a flat tool to paddle the material rearward position.
Water will assist in the curing process. A mist, into position as necessary. Be sure the adhesive 3. Remove the adjuster front foot covers;
don’t hose it down. Then dry the area where the contacts the entire edge of the glass and extends then remove the adjuster to floor pan front
reveal molding will contact the body glass. to fill the gap between the glass and the solidified attaching nuts. Tilt the seat rearward and
8. Install new reveal moldings. Remove the urethane base. disconnect the feed wire connector.
protective tape covering the butyl adhesive on The vehicle must remain at room 4. Remove the seat assembly from the car.
the underside of the molding. Push the molding temperature for at least 6 hours. If 5. To install, reverse steps 1 through 4 and
caps onto each end of one of the reveal can’t be driven during the time. check for proper seat operation. Torque the bolts
moldings. Press the lip of the molding into the to 40 ft. lbs.
8. Spray a mist of water onto the urethane.
eruethane adhesive while holding it against the
Water will assist in the curing process. A mist,
edge of the windshield. Take care to seat the don’t hose it down. Then dry the area where the Rear
moldings in the comers. The lip must fully reveal molding will contact the body glass. 1. Push the lower forward edge of the seat
contact the adhesive and the gap must be cushion rearward.
9. Install the reveal molding onto the
entirely coverd by the crown of the molding. 2. Lift upward and pull forward on the seat
windshield and remove the masking tape from
Slide the molding caps onto the adjacent cushion frame to disengage the cushion frame
the inner surface of the glass.
10. Press the lip of the molding into the wires from the retainers on the rear seat pan.
10-24 BODY
 BODY 10-25
3. Remove the lower seat cushion from the rear attaching nuts. Position the seat in the full 8. Remove the motor from the seat.
vehicle. rearward position. To install:
4. At the bottom of the seatback, remove the 3. Remove the adjuster front foot covers; 9. Position the motor in the motor support
anchor bolts securing the rear seat wire then remove the adjuster to floor pan front bracket.
retainers. attaching nuts. Tilt the seat rearward and 10. Connect the vertical and horizontal drive
5. Grasp the bottom of the seatback and disconnect the feed wire connector. cables.
swing toward to disengage the offsets on the 4. Remove the seat assembly from the car. 11. Place the seat into the vehicle and
upper frame bar from the hangers. 5. Place the seat up side down on a clean connect the feed wire.
6. Lift the seatback upward and remove from surface. 12. Position the seat in the position that
vehicle. 6. Disconnect the vertical and horizontal drive makes installation of the retaining nuts easiest.
7. To install, reverse the above process. cables from the motor. Install the adjuster to floor pan attaching nuts and
Torque the bolts to 40 ft. lbs. 7. Remove the retainer nut from the motor torque to 15—21 ft.lbs. Install the foot covers.
support bracket.

Power Seat Motor «

«r3 I i

--
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
1
(ITT 1 2 \M/' l
1. Position the seat in the full forward -
position. If the car is equipped with six-way
, t-i.i—r
power seats, place the seat in the full forward
and up position. When necessary to gain access I i 9 ^T"i
to the adjuster-to-floor pan attaching nuts,
1. Front vertical gearnut
remove the adjuster rear foot covers and or 2. Horizontal adjuster 4. Adjuster assembly
carpet retainers. 3. Gearnut to upper channel 5. Rearvertical gearnut
nuts 6. Vertical assist spring
2. Remove the track covers where
necessary; then remove the adjuster-to-floor pan FIG.53 Power seat motor and related components

1Front seat right

adjuster
2. Front seat left
adjuster
3. Adjuster motor
4. Adjuster floor
support cover bench
right front
5. Adjuster floor
support cover bench
left front
6. Adjuster floor
support cover bench
both rear

FIG.52 Power seat adjuster to floor

10-26 BODY
Seat Belts

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

Floor mount
1. Remove the cover from the anchor plate.
2. Remove the cover from the floor mounted
retractor assembly.
9. Front vertical gearnut 3. Disconnect wiring from assembly, as
1. Rear gearnut drive motor
2. Assist springs 10. Rear vertical gearnut needed.
3. Horizontal adjuster motor 4. Remove assembly.
motor 6. Front gearnut drive 11. Front vertical drive cable
4. Adjuster assembly 7. Motor support bracket 12. Rear vertical drive cable 5. To install; reverse removal and tighten
8. Lower channel stop 13. Horizontal drive cable
5. Rear vertical gearnut
(rebuild kit)
retaining bolts to 31 ft. lbs. (42 Nm).
cable 14. Horizontal adjuster drive

Outboard belts and retractors

FIG.54 Power seat motor and related components
1. Remove door trim panel.

1. Clevis 8. Latch plate

2. Nut 21 ft. lbs. (28 9. Escutcheon
Nm) 10. Door trim panel
3. Cover 11. Webbing
4. Spacer 12. Nut
5. Connector 13. Screws
6. Intermediate guide 14. Screw
7. D-ring 15. Lap retractor
16. Shoulder retractor
17. Stud

FIG.55 Front safety belt installation - Sedan and wagon shown

 BODY 10-27
2. Remove screws securing intermediate 8. Remove the shoulder retractor. 13. Install the shoulder retractor and tighten
guide to door. 9. Remove or lower window as necessary. to 31 ft. lbs. (42 Nm).
3. Remove the intermediate guide. 10. Remove the cover, nut and spacer from 14. Install the lap retractor and tighten to 31
4. Disconnect electrical connectors. D-ring and remove the D-ring. ft. lbs. (42 Nm).
5. Remove the nut securing the lap retractor. To install: 15. Connect the electrical connectors.
6. Remove the lap retractor. 11. Install the D-ring, torque bolt to 21 ft. lbs 16. Install the intermediate guide, tighten to
7. Remove the nut and screw securing the (28 Nm). 44 inch lbs. (5 Nm).
shoulder retractor. 12. Install the covers to D-ring. 17. Install the door trim panels.

SEAT BELT TORQUE CHART

PART TORQUE
TYPE THREAD LENGTH
NAME Nm Ft-Lb

BOLT 1 M12-1.76 38 mm 35-48 26-35

(§>[ mm BOLT 2 M12-1.75 25 mm 35-48 28-36

BOLT 3 M12-1.76 30 mm 35-48 26-35

©d fjffj BOLT 4 M8-1.25 20 mm 20-24 16-17

BOLT 6 M12-1.75 39 mm 35-48 26-36

BOLT 6 M12-1.75 35 mm 35-48 26-35

©0Z*B BOLT 7 M12-1.76 43 mm 36-48 26-36

BOLT 8 M12-1.76 3 1 mm 35-48 26-35

k-l
BOLT 0 M 1 2~ 1.7 5 49 mm 35-48 26-35

0 h STUD 10 M6-1.00 1 6 mm N/A N/A

©i ns BOLT 1 1 M12-1.75 53 mm 35-48 28-36

o 0 NUT
|
12 M12-1.75 35-48 26-35

© a NUT 13 M10-1.50 40-55 30-41

(§)
n

NUT 14 M6-1.00 10-14 7-10

(§)cj NUT 15 M8-1.25 18-25 14-19

STUD 16 M8-1.25 13 mm N/A N/A

0 0»
5/16-18 20-24
003STWj BOLT 18 1.25 N.S. 15-17

BOLT 19 6/16-18 8.75 N.S. 20-24 15-17

0&!ESP
■ §3 NUT 20 M6-1.00 9-1 2 7-9

NUT 21 M10-1.50 30-40 22-30

©
_
10-28 BODY
Hood, Trunk Lid, Hatch Lid, Glass and Doors
Problem Possible Cause Correction

HOOD/TRUNK/HATCH LID
Improper closure. • Striker and latch not properly • Adjust the alignment.
aligned.
Difficulty locking and unlocking. • Striker and latch not properly • Adjust the alignment.
aligned.
Uneven clearance with body ♦ Incorrectly installed hood or • Adjust the alignment.
panels. trunk lid.
WINDOW/WINDSHIELD GLASS
Water leak through windshield • Defective seal. • Fill sealant
• Defective body flange. • Correct.
Water leak through door window • Incorrect window glass • Adjust position.
glass. installation.
• Gap at upper window frame. • Adjust position.
Water leak through quarter • Defective seal. • Replace seal.
window. • Defective body flange. • Correct.
Water leak through rear window. • Defective seal. • Replace seal.
• Defective body flange. • Correct.
FRONT/REAR DOORS
Door window malfunction. • Incorrect window glass • Adjust position.
installation.
• Damaged or faulty regulator. • Correct or replace.
Water leak through door edge. • Cracked or faulty weatherstrip. • Replace.
Water leak from door center. • Drain hole clogged. • Remove foreign objects.
• Inadequate waterproof skeet • Correct or replace.
contact or damage.
Door hard to open. • Incorrect latch or striker • Adjust.
adjustment.
Door does not open or close • Incorrect door installation. • Adjust position.
completely. • Defective door check strap. • Correct or replace.
• Door check strap and hinge • Apply grease.
require grease.
Uneven gap between door and • Incorrect door installation. • Adjust position.
body.
Wind noise around door. • Improperly installed • Repair or replace.
weatherstrip.
• Improper clearance between • Adjust.
door glass and door
weatherstrip.
• Deformed door. • Repair or replace.
 BODY 10-29
How to Remove Stains from Fabric Interior
For best results, spots and stains should be removed as soon as possible. Never use gasoline, lacquer thinner, acetone,
nail polish remover or bleach. Use a 3' x 3" piece of cheesecloth. Squeeze most of the liquid from the fabric and wipe
the stained fabric from the outside of the stain toward the center with a lifting motion. Turn the cheesecloth as soon as
one side becomes soiled. When using water to remove a stain, be sure to wash the entire section after the spot has
been removed to avoid water stains. Encrusted spots can be broken up with a dull knife and vacuumed before removing
the stain.

Type of Stain How to Remove It

Surface spots Brush the spots out with a small hand brush or use a commercial
preparation such as K2R to lift the stain.
Mildew Clean around the mildew with warm suds. Rinse in cold water and
soak the mildew area in a solution of 1 part table salt and 2 parts
water. Wash with upholstery cleaner.
Water stains Water stains in fabric materials can be removed with a solution made
from 1 cup of table salt dissolved in 1 quart of water. Vigorously
scrub the solution into the stain and rinse with clear water.
Water stains in nylon or other synthetic fabrics should be removed
with a commercial type spot remover.
Chewing gum, tar, crayons, shoe Do not use a cleaner that will soften gum or tar. Harden the deposit
polish (greasy stains) with an ice cube and scrape away as much as possible with a dull
knife. Moisten the remainder with cleaning fluid and scrub clean.
Ice cream, candy Most candy has a sugar base and can be removed with a cloth wrung
out in warm water. Oily candy, after cleaning with warm water,
should be cleaned with upholstery cleaner. Rinse with warm water
and clean the remainder with cleaning fluid.
Wine, alcohol, egg, milk, soft drink Do not use soap. Scrub the stain with a cloth wrung out in warm
(non-greasy stains) water. Remove the remainder with cleaning fluid.
Grease, oil, lipstick, butter and Use a spot remover to avoid leaving a ring. Work from the outisde of
related stains the stain to the center and dry with a clean cloth when the spot is
gone.
Headliners (cloth) Mix a solution of warm water and foam upholstery cleaner to give
thick suds. Use only foam—liquid may streak or spot. Clean the en¬
tire headliner in one operation using a circular motion with a natural
sponge.
Headliner (vinyl) Use a vinyl cleaner with a sponge and wipe clean with a dry cloth.
Seats and door panels Mix 1 pint upholstery cleaner in 1 gallon of water. Do not soak the
fabric around the buttons.
Leather or vinyl fabric Use a multi-purpose cleaner full strength and a stiff brush. Let stand 2
minutes and scrub thoroughly. Wipe with a clean, soft rag.
Nylon or synthetic fabrics For normal stains, use the same procedures you would for washing
cloth upholstery. If the fabric is extremely dirty, use a multi-purpose
cleaner full strength with a stiff scrub brush. Scrub thoroughly in all
directions and wipe with a cotton towel or soft rag.
10-30 BODY
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
Component U.S. Metric
Adjuster to seat frame bolt: 18 ft. lbs. 24 Nm
Air deflector: 80 inch lbs. 9 Nm
Bumper to absorber bolts: 18-25 ft. lbs. 24-34 Nm
Doors hinge to body: 15-20 ft. lbs. 20-28 Nm
Fender bolts lower: 89 inch lbs. 10 Nm
Fender bolts upper: 18 ft. lbs. 25 Nm
Folding second Seatback lock striker to
back support: 34 ft. lbs. 46 Nm
Front seat center armrest: 106 inch lbs. 12 Nm
Front seatbelt to anchor plate: 31 ft. lbs. 42 Nm
Front seatbelt to rocker: 31 ft. lbs. 42 Nm
High mounted stop light: 49 inch lbs. 5.5 Nm
Hood hinge to hood bolts: 24 ft. lb 33 Nm
Interia lock to seat back panel: 89 inch lbs. 10 Nm
Interia lock to seat bottom frame: 89 inch lbs. 10 Nm
Lockout plate to seat bottom: 106 inch lbs. 12 Nm
Luggage carrier deck lid: 13 inch lbs. 1.5 Nm
Luggage carrier rail: 13 inch lbs. 1.5 Nm
Outer seatback hinge upper and lower
bolts: 18 ft. lbs. 24 Nm
Outer slat retaining nuts: 49 inch lbs. 5.5 Nm
Outside mirror retaining nuts: 80 inch lbs. 9 Nm
Pivot glass bolts: 80 inch lbs. 9 Nm
Pivot glass lock, solenoid and actuator: 53 inch lbs. 6 Nm
Pivot glass screws to deflector: 80 inch lbs. 9 Nm
Pivot glass stricker to glass assembly: 80 inch lbs. 9 Nm
Rear compartment lid lock and solenoid
screws: 53 inch lbs. 6 Nm
Rear seat cushion retainer to floor pan: 89 inch lbs. 10 Nm
Rear seatback frame to floor pan: 89 inch lbs. 10 Nm
Rear seatbelt to anchor plate: 31 ft. lbs. 42 Nm
Recliner to seatback bolt: 13 ft. lbs. 18 Nm
Reclining seatback actuator assembly to
back frame: 13 ft. lbs. 18 Nm
Reclining seatback actuator assembly to
cushion frame: 13 ft. lbs. 18 Nm
Reveal molding to liftgate: 80 inch lbs. 9 Nm
Seat adjuster to floor bolt: 18 ft. lbs. 24 Nm
Seat bottom to back frame: 89 inch lbs. 10 Nm
Seat motor and trans. support: 106 inch lbs. 12 Nm
Seatback frame to cushion: 34 ft. lbs. 46 Nm
Seatback lock assembly screw: 106 inch lbs. 12 Nm
Seatback lock striker and inner side bar
stop: 34 ft. lbs. 46 Nm
Trunk lid retaining bolts: 18 ft. lbs. 25 Nm
 GLOSSARY 10-31
GLOSSARY

AIR/FUEL RATIO: The ratio of air to BAKELITE: A heat resistant plastic insulator CAMSHAFT: A shaft in the engine on which
gasoline by weight in the fuel mixture drawn into material commonly used in printed circuit boards are the lobes (cams) which operate the valves.
the engine. and transistorized components. The camshaft is driven by the crankshaft via a
belt, chain or gears, at one half the crankshaft
AIR INJECTION: One method of reducing BALL BEARING: A bearing made up of speed.
harmful exhaust emissions by injecting air into hardened inner and outer races between which
each of the exhaust ports of an engine. The fresh hardened steel balls roll. CAPACITOR: A device which stores an
air entering the hot exhaust manifold causes any electrical charge.
remaining fuel to be burned before it can exit the BALLAST RESISTOR: A resistor in the
tailpipe. CARBON MONOXIDE (CO): A colorless,
primary ignition circuit that lowers voltage after
the engine is started to reduce wear on ignition odorless gas given off as a normal byproduct of
ALTERNATOR: A device used for converting components. combustion. It is poisonous and extremely
mechanical energy into electrical energy. dangerous in confined areas, building up slowly
to toxic levels without warning if adequate
BEARING: A friction reducing, supportive
AMMETER: An instrument, calibrated in ventilation is not available.
device usually located between a stationary part
amperes, used to measure the flow of an
and a moving part.
electrical current in a circuit. Ammeters are CARBURETOR: A device, usually mounted
always connected in series with the circuit being on the intake manifold of an engine, which mixes
BIMETAL TEMPERATURE SENSOR: the air and fuel in the proper proportion to allow
tested.
Any sensor or switch made of two dissimilar even combustion.
types of metal that bend when heated or cooled
AMPERE: The rate of flow of electrical current
due to the different expansion rates of the alloys. CATALYTIC CONVERTER: A device
present when one volt of electrical pressure is
These types of sensors usually function as an on/ installed in the exhaust system, like a muffler, that
applied against one ohm of electrical resistance.
off switch. converts harmful byproducts of combustion into
ANALOG COMPUTER: Any carbon dioxide and water vapor by means of a
microprocessor that uses similar (analogous) BLOWBY: Combustion gases, composed of heat-producing chemical reaction.
electrical signals to make its calculations. water vapor and unbumed fuel, that leak past the
piston rings into the crankcase during normal CENTRIFUGAL ADVANCE: A
ARMATURE: A laminated, soft iron core engine operation. These gases are removed by mechanical method of advancing the spark timing
wrapped by a wire that converts electrical energy the PCV system to prevent the buildup of harmful by using fly weights in the distributor that react to
to mechanical energy as in a motor or relay. When acids in the crankcase. centrifugal force generated by the distributor shaft
rotated in a magnetic field, it changes mechanical rotation.
energy into electrical energy as in a generator. BRAKE PAD: A brake shoe and lining
assembly used with disc brakes. CHECK VALVE: Any one-way valve installed
ATMOSPHERIC PRESSURE: The to permit the flow of air, fuel or vacuum in one
pressure on the Earth’s surface caused by the BRAKE SHOE: The backing for the brake direction only.
weight of the air in the atmosphere. At sea level, lining. The term is, however, usually applied to the
this pressure is 14.7 psi at 32°F (101 kPa at 0°C). assembly of the brake backing and lining. CHOKE: A device, usually a movable valve,
placed in the intake path of a carburetor to restrict
ATOMIZATION: The breaking down of a BUSHING: A liner, usually removable, for a the flow of air.
liquid into a fine mist that can be suspended in air. bearing; an anti-friction liner used in place of a
bearing. CIRCUIT: Any unbroken path through which
AXIAL PLAY: Movement parallel to a shaft or an electrical current can flow. Also used to
bearing bore. BYPASS: System used to bypass ballast describe fuel flow in some instances.
resistor during engine cranking to increase
voltage supplied to the coil. CIRCUIT BREAKER: A switch which
BACKFIRE: The sudden combustion of gases
protects an electrical circuit from overload by
in the intake or exhaust system that results in a
CALIPER: A hydraulically activated device in a opening the circuit when the current flow exceeds
loud explosion.
disc brake system, which is mounted straddling a predetermined level. Some circuit breakers
the brake rotor (disc). The caliper contains at least must be reset manually, while most reset
BACKLASH: The clearance or play between
one piston and two brake pads. Hydraulic automatically
two parts, such as meshed gears.
pressure on the piston(s) forces the pads against
the rotor. COIL (IGNITION): A transformer in the
BACKPRESSURE: Restrictions in the ignition circuit which steps up the voltage
exhaust system that slow the exit of exhaust provided to the spark plugs.
gases from the combustion chamber.
10-32 GLOSSARY
COMBINATION MANIFOLD: An DETONATION: An unwanted explosion of ENDPLAY: The measured amount of axial
assembly which includes both the intake and the air/fuel mixture in the combustion chamber movement in a shaft.
exhaust manifolds in one casting. caused by excess heat and compression, ENGINE: A device that converts heat into
advanced timing, or an overly lean mixture. Also mechanical energy.
COMBINATION VALVE: A device used in referred to as “ping”.
some fuel systems that routes fuel vapors to a DIAPHRAGM: A thin, flexible wall separat¬ EXHAUST MANIFOLD: A set of cast
charcoal storage canister instead of venting them ing two cavities, such as in a vacuum advance passages or pipes which conduct exhaust gases
into the atmosphere. The valve relieves fuel tank unit. from the engine.
pressure and allows fresh air into the tank as the
fuel level drops to prevent a vapor lock situation. DIESELING: A condition in which hot spots in FEELER GAUGE: A blade, usually metal, of
the combustion chamber cause the engine to run precisely predetermined thickness, used to
on after the key is turned off. measure the clearance between two parts. These
COMPRESSION RATIO: The comparison
blades usually are available in sets of assorted
of the total volume of the cylinder and combustion
DIFFERENTIAL: A geared assembly which
thicknesses.
chamber with the piston at BDC and the piston at
TDC. allows the transmission of motion between drive
F-HEAD: An engine configuration in which the
axles, giving one axle the ability to turn faster than
the other. intake valves are in the cylinder head, while the
CONDENSER: 1. An electrical device which
camshaft and exhaust valves are located in the
acts to store an electrical charge, preventing
DIODE: An electrical device that will allow
cylinder block. The camshaft operates the intake
voltage surges.
valves via lifters and pushrods, while it operates
2. A radiator-like device in the air conditioning current to flow in one direction only.
the exhaust valves directly.
system in which refrigerant gas condenses into a
liquid, giving off heat. DISC BRAKE: A hydraulic braking assembly
FIRING ORDER: The order in which
consisting of a brake disc, or rotor, mounted on
combustion occurs in the cylinders of an engine.
CONDUCTOR: Any material through which an an axle, and a caliper assembly containing,
Also the order in which spark is distributed to the
electrical current can be transmitted easily. usually two brake pads which are activated by
plugs by the distributor.
hydraulic pressure. The pads are forced against
CONTINUITY: Continuous or complete the sides of the disc, creating friction which slows
FLATHEAD: An engine configuration in which
circuit. Can be checked with an ohmmeter. the vehicle.
the camshaft and all the valves are located in the
COUNTERSHAFT: An intermediate shaft
cylinder block.
DISTRIBUTOR: A mechanically driven
which is rotated by a mainshaft and transmits, in device on an engine which is responsible for
turn, that rotation to a working part. FLOODING: The presence of too much fuel in
electrically firing the spark plug at a the intake manifold and combustion chamber
predetermined point of the piston stroke. which prevents the air/fuel mixture from firing,
CRANKCASE: The lower part of an engine in
which the crankshaft and related parts operate. thereby causing a no-start situation.
DOWEL PIN: A pin, inserted in mating holes
in two different parts allowing those parts to FLYWHEEL: A disc shaped part bolted to the
CRANKSHAFT: The main driving shaft of an
maintain a fixed relationship. rear end of the crankshaft. Around the outer
engine which receives reciprocating motion from
the pistons and converts it to rotary motion. perimeter is affixed the ring gear. Trie starter drive
DRUM BRAKE: A braking system which engages the ring gear, turning the flywheel, which
consists of two brake shoes and one or two wheel rotates the crankshaft, imparting the initial starting
CYLINDER: In an engine, the round hole in the
cylinders, mounted on a fixed backing plate, and motion to the engine.
engine block in which the piston(s) ride.
a brake drum, mounted on an axle, which
revolves around the assembly. Hydraulic action FOOT POUND (ft.lb. or sometimes,
CYLINDER BLOCK: The main structural applied to the wheel cylinders forces the shoes ft. lbs.): The amount of energy or work needed
member of an engine in which is found the outward against the drum, creating friction, to raise an item weighing one pound, a distance
cylinders, crankshaft and other principal parts. slowing the vehicle. of one foot.
CYLINDER HEAD: The detachable portion
DWELL: The rate, measured in degrees of shaft FUSE: A protective device in a circuit which
of the engine, fastened, usually, to the top of the rotation, at which an electrical circuit cycles on
cylinder block, containing all or most of the prevents circuit overload by breaking the circuit
and off. when a specific amperage is present. The device
combustion chambers. On overhead valve
is constructed around a strip or wire of a lower
engines, it contains the valves and their operating
ELECTRONIC CONTROL UNIT amperage rating than the circuit it is designed to
parts. On overhead cam engines, it contains the
(ECU): Ignition module, amplifier or igniter. See protect. When an amperage higher than that
camshaft as well.
Module for definition. stamped on the fuse is present in the circuit, the
strip or wire melts, opening the circuit.
DEAD CENTER: The extreme top or bottom ELECTRONIC IGNITION: A system in
of the piston stroke. which the timing and firing of the spark plugs is GEAR RATIO: The ratio between the number
controlled by an electronic control unit, usually of teeth on meshing gears.
called a module. These systems have no points or
condenser.
 GLOSSARY 10-33
GENERATOR: A device which converts MASTER CYLINDER: The primary fluid PISTON RING: An open ended ring which
mechanical energy into electrical energy. pressurizing device in a hydraulic system. In fits into a groove on the outer diameter of the
automotive use, it is found in brake and hydraulic piston. Its chief function is to form a seal between
HEAT RANGE: The measure of a spark
clutch systems and is pedal activated, either the piston and cylinder wall. Most automotive
plug’s ability to dissipate heat from its firing end. directly or, in a power brake system, through the pistons have three rings: two for compression
The higher the heat range, the hotter the plug fires. power booster. sealing; one for oil sealing.
HUB: The center part of a wheel or gear.
MODULE: Electronic control unit, amplifier or PRELOAD: A predetermined load placed on a
igniter of solid state or integrated design which bearing during assembly or by adjustment
HYDROCARBON (HCJ: Any chemical
controls the current flow in the ignition primary
compound made up of hydrogen and carbon. A
circuit based on input from the pick- up coil. PRIMARY CIRCUIT: Is the low voltage
major pollutant formed by the engine as a
When the module opens the primary circuit, the side of the ignition system which consists of the
byproduct of combustion.
high secondary voltage is induced in the coil. ignition switch, ballast resistor or resistance wire,
bypass, coil, electronic control unit and pick-up
HYDROMETER: An instrument used to NEEDLE BEARING: A bearing which coil as well as the connecting wires and
measure the specific gravity of a solution. consists of a number (usually a large number) of harnesses.
long, thin rollers.
INCH POUND (in.lb. or sometimes,
PRESS FIT: The mating of two parts under
in. lbs.): One twelfth of a foot pound. OHM:(H) The unit used to measure the pressure, due to the inner diameter of one being
resistance of conductor to electrical flow. One smaller than the outer diameter of the other, or
INDUCTION: A means of transferring ohm is the amount of resistance that limits current vice versa; an interference fit.
electrical energy in the form of a magnetic field. flow to one ampere in a circuit with one volt of
Principle used in the ignition coil to increase pressure. RACE: The surface on the inner or outer ring of
voltage. a bearing on which the balls, needles or rollers
OHMMETER: An instrument used for move.
INJECTION PUMP: A device, usually measuring the resistance, in ohms, in an electrical
mechanically operated, which meters and circuit. REGULATOR: A device which maintains the
delivers fuel under pressure to the fuel injector. amperage and/or voltage levels of a circuit at
OUTPUT SHAFT: The shaft which transmits predetermined values.
INJECTOR: A device which receives metered torque from a device, such as a transmission.
fuel under relatively low pressure and is activated RELAY: A switch which automatically opens
to inject the fuel into the engine under relatively OVERDRIVE: A gear assembly which and/or closes a circuit.
high pressure at a predetermined time. produces more shaft revolutions than that
transmitted to it. RESISTANCE: The opposition to the flow of
INPUT SHAFT: The shaft to which torque is current through a circuit or electrical device, and
applied, usually carrying the driving gear or gears. OVERHEAD CAMSHAFT (OHC): An is measured in ohms. Resistance is equal to the
engine configuration in which the camshaft is voltage divided by the amperage.
INTAKE MANIFOLD: A casting of mounted on top of the cylinder head and operates
passages or pipes used to conduct air or a fuel/air the valves either directly or by means of rocker RESISTOR: A device, usually made of wire,
mixture to the cylinders. arms. which offers a preset amount of resistance in an
electrical circuit.
OVERHEAD VALVE (OHV): An engine
JOURNAL: The bearing surface within which
configuration in which all of the valves are located RING GEAR: The name given to a ring-
a shaft operates.
in the cylinder head and the camshaft is located in shaped gear attached to a differential case,or
the cylinder block. The camshaft operates the affixed to a flywheel or as part a planetary gear
KEY: A small block usually fitted in a notch
valves via lifters and pushrods. set.
between a shaft and a hub to prevent slippage of
the two parts.
OXIDES OF NITROGEN (NOx): ROLLER BEARING: A bearing made up of
Chemical compounds of nitrogen produced as a hardened inner and outer races between which
MANIFOLD: A casting of passages or set of
byproduct of combustion. They combine with hardened steel rollers move.
pipes which connect the cylinders to an inlet or hydrocarbons to produce smog.
outlet source.
ROTOR: 1. The disc-shaped part of a disc
OXYGEN SENSOR: Used with the feedback brake assembly, upon which the brake pads bear;
MANIFOLD VACUUM: Low pressure in an
system to sense the presence of oxygen in the also called, brake disc.
engine intake manifold formed just below the exhaust gas and signal the computer which can 2. The device mounted atop the distributor shaft
throttle plates. Manifold vacuum is highest at idle reference the voltage signal to an air/fuel ratio. which passes current to the distributor cap tower
and drops under acceleration. contacts.
PINION: The smaller of two meshing gears.
10-34 GLOSSARY
SECONDARY CIRCUIT: The high voltage SPLINES: Ridges machined or cast onto the TUNE-UP: A regular maintenaneelunction,
side of the ignition system, usually above 20,000 outer diameter of a shaft or inner diameter of a usually associated with the replacement and
volts. The secondary includes the ignition coil, bore to enable parts to mate without rotation. adjustment of parts and components in the
coil wire, distributor cap and rotor, spark plug electrical and fuel systems of a vehicle for the
wires and spark plugs. TACHOMETER: A device used to measure purpose of attaining optimum performance.
the rotary speed of an engine, shaft, gear, etc.,
SENDING UNIT: A mechanical, electrical, usually in rotations per minute. TURBOCHARGER: An exhaust driven pump
hydraulic or electromagnetic device which which compresses intake air and forces it into the
transmits information to a gauge. THERMOSTAT: A valve, located in the combustion chambers at higher than atmospheric
cooling system of an engine, which is closed pressures. The increased air pressure allows more
SENSOR: Any device designed to measure when cold and opens gradually in response to fuel to be burned and results in increased
engine operating conditions or ambient pressures engine heating, controlling the temperature of the horsepower being produced.
and temperatures. Usually electronic in nature and coolant and rate of coolant flow.
designed to send a voltage signal to an on-board VACUUM ADVANCE: A device which
computer, some sensors may operate as a simple TOP DEAD CENTER (TDC): The point at advances the ignition timing in response to
on/off switch or they may provide a variable which the piston reaches the top of its travel on increased engine vacuum.
voltage signal (like a potentiometer) as conditions the compression stroke.
or measured parameters change. VACUUM GAUGE: An instrument used to
TORQUE: The twisting force applied to an measure the presence of vacuum in a chamber.
SHIM: Spacers of precise, predetermined object.
thickness used between parts to establish a VALVE: A device which control the pressure,
proper working relationship. TORQUE CONVERTER: A turbine used to direction of flow or rate of flow of a liquid or gas.
transmit power from a driving member to a driven
SLAVE CYLINDER: In automotive use, a member via hydraulic action, providing changes VALVE CLEARANCE: The measured gap
device in the hydraulic clutch system which is in drive ratio and torque. In automotive use, it links between the end of the valve stem and the rocker
activated by hydraulic force, disengaging the the driveplate at the rear of the engine to the arm, cam lobe or follower that activates the valve.
clutch. automatic transmission.
VISCOSITY: The rating of a liquid’s internal
SOLENOID: A coil used to produce a TRANSDUCER: A device used to change a resistance to flow.
magnetic field, the effect of which is to produce force into an electrical signal.
work. VOLTMETER: An instrument used for
TRANSISTOR: A semi-conductor measuring electrical force in units called volts.
SPARK PLUG: A device screwed into the component which can be actuated by a small Voltmeters are always connected parallel with the
combustion chamber of a spark ignition engine. voltage to perform an electrical switching circuit being tested.
The basic construction is a conductive core inside function.
of a ceramic insulator, mounted in an outer WHEEL CYLINDER: Found in the
conductive base. An electrical charge from the automotive drum brake assembly, it is a device,
spark plug wire travels along the conductive core actuated by hydraulic pressure, which, through
and jumps a preset air gap to a grounding point or internal pistons, pushes the brake shoes outward
points at the end of the conductive base. The against the drums.
resultant spark ignites the fuel/air mixture in the
combustion chamber.
AIR CLEANER M3 Fluid level and maintenance 1-21
AIR CONDITIONING General maintenance 1-19
Accumulator 6-22 Jump starting 1-20
Blower 6-20 Replacement 1-21
Blower resistor 6-21 Testing 1-21
Charging 1-31 BELTS 1-21
Compressor 6-19 BLOWER MOTOR 6-9
Condenser 6-20 BRAKES
Control panel 6-23 Adjustment 9-3
Discharging 1-29 Bleeding 9-7
Evacuating 1-30 Brake light switch 9-4
Evaporator 6-21 Disc brakes 9-9
Gauge sets 1-29 Drum brakes 9-15
General service 1-26 Master cylinder 9-4
Inspection 1-28 Parking brake 9-24
Orifice tube 6-22 Power booster 9-6
Safety precautions 1-28 Specifications 9-64
Service valves 1-30 CAMSHAFT
System tests 1-31 Bearings 3-74
Troubleshooting 1-31 Inspection 3-77
AIR PUMP 4-3 Removal and installation 3-74
ALIGNMENT (WHEEL) 8-8 CAPACITIES CHART 1-51
ALTERNATOR CARBURETOR
Alternator precautions 3-10 Adjustments 2-26,5-22
Operation 3-9 Overhaul 5-7
Removal and installation 3-11 Removal and Installation 5-2
ANTI-LOCK BRAKE SYSTEM CATALYTIC CONVERTER 3-87
Bleeding 9-63 CHARGING SYSTEM 3-9
Control valve 9-60 CHASSIS ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
Diagnosis 9-28 Circuit breakers 6-51
Front wheel speed sensor 9-58 Cruise control 6-26
Hydraulic unit 9-59 Flashers 6-51
Pump & motor 9-62 Fuses 6-50
Rear wheel speed sensor 9-59 Fusible links 6-51
System operation 9-26 Headlight switch 6-44
ANTIFREEZE 1-43 Headlights 6-47
ASSEMBLY LINE DIAGNOSTIC LINK Heater and air conditioning 6-9
(ALDL) Instrument cluster 6-40
Multi-port fuel injection 4-104 Lighting 6-47
Throttle body fuel injection 4-78 Windshield wipers 6-36
AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION CHASSIS LUBRICATION 1-47
Adjustments 7-55 CLUTCH
Back-up light switch 7-56 Adjustment 7-50
Fluid and filter change 7-55 Hydraulic system bleeding 7-53
Fluid change 1-41 Master cylinder 7-52
Identification 7-55 Removal and installation 7-51
Neutral safety switch 7-56 Slave cylinder 7-52
Operation 7-54 Troubleshooting 7-64
Removal and installation 7-56 COIL (IGNITION) 3-4
Throttle cable adjustment 7-55 COMBINATION SWITCH 8-6
Troubleshooting 7-65 COMPRESSION TESTING 3-26
AUTOMOTIVE GLOSSARY 10-31 COMPUTER CONTROLLED CATALYTIC
BACK-UP LIGHT SWITCH CONVERTER (C4)
Automatic transmission 7-56 Troubleshooting charts 4-28
Manual transmission 7-9 CONNECTING RODS AND BEARINGS
BATTERY Service 3-77
Cables 1-19 Specifications 3-32
Charging 1-21 COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR 3-21
10-36 INDEX
COOLING SYSTEM 1-43 ELECTRONIC FUEL INJECTION Oxygen (02) sensor 4-14
CRANKCASE VENTILATION Multi-Port Fuel Injection (MPI) 5-34 PCV valve 4-5
VALVE 1-17,4-5 Throttle Body Fuel Injection (TBI) 5-26 Transmission converter clutch
CRANKSHAFT ELECTRONIC IGNITION 2-8 system 4-24
Service 3-83 ELECTRONIC SPARK CONTROL EXHAUST MANIFOLD 3-50
Specifications 3-32 SYSTEM 4-74 EXHAUST PIPE 3-86
CRANKSHAFT SENSOR 2-21 ELECTRONIC SPARK TIMING EXHAUST SYSTEM 3-86
CRANKSHAFT SENSOR 3-18 SYSTEM 4-24 EXTERIOR
CYLINDER HEAD ENGINE Antenna 10-8
Cleaning and inspection 3-60 Block heater 3-81 Bumpers 10-6
Removal and installation 3-56 Camshaft 3-74 Doors 10-2
Resurfacing 3-60 Camshaft bearings 3-74 Fenders 10-8
DATA SENSORS Compression testing 3-26 Grille 10-7
Multi-port fuel injection 4-108 Connecting rods and bearings 3-77 Hood 10-3
Throttle body fuel injection 4-71 Crankshaft 3-83 FAN 3-55
DIESEL FUEL SYSTEM Crankshaft damper 3-66 FEEDBACK CARBURETOR
Fuel supply pump 5-41 Cylinder head 3-56 CONTROLS 4-15
Glow plugs 5-43 Cylinders 3-80 FILTERS
Injection lines 5-42 Description 3-25 Air 1-13
Injection pump 5-41 Exhaust manifold 3-50 Crankcase 1-18
Injection timing 5-42 ' Fan 3-55 Fuel 1-14
Injectors 5-41 Flywheel 3-86 Oil 1-38
DIESEL IDLE SPEED 2-26 Freeze plugs 3-81 FIRING ORDERS 2-6
DISC BRAKES (FRONT) Front (timing) cover 3-67 FLUIDS AND LUBRICANTS
Caliper 9-10 Front seal 3-70 Automatic transmission 1-41
Operating principles 9-2 Intake manifold 3-44 Battery 1-19
Pads 9-9 Lifters 3-62 Chassis greasing 1-47
Rotor (Disc) 9-14 Main bearings 3-84 Coolant 1-43
DISTRIBUTOR Oil pan 3-63 Engine oil 1-37
Removal and installation 3-8 Oil pump 3-65 Fuel recommendations 1-37
Service 2-15 Overhaul techniques 3-25 Manual transmission 1-40
Testing 2-15 Piston pin 3-78 Master cylinder 1-45
DISTRIBUTORLESS IGNITION Pistons 3-77 Power steering pump 1-46
Service 2-20 Rear main seal 3-81 Steering gear 1-47
DRIVE AXLE (FRONT) Removal and installation 3-37 FLYWHEEL AND RING GEAR 3-86
Axle shaft 7-46 Ring gear 3-86 FREEZE PLUGS 3-81
Removal and installation 7-46 Rings 3-80 FRONT SUSPENSION
DRIVE AXLE (REAR) Rocker arms 3-43 Knuckle and spindle 8-7
Axle housing 7-60 Rocker studs 3-43 Lower control arm 8-6
Driveshaft 7-46 Specifications 3-27 Shock absorbers 8-5
Hub & bearing 7-60 Thermostat 3-44 Springs 8-5
Removal and installation 7-59 Timing chain 3-71 Stabilizer bar 8-6
DRUM BRAKES Timing covers 3-67 Wheel alignment 8-8
Adjustment 9-3 Timing gears 3-71 FRONT WHEEL BEARINGS 8-7
Drum 9-15 Troubleshooting 3-94 FUEL FILTER 1-14
Shoes 9-16 Valve (rocker) cover 3-41 FUEL INJECTOR REPLACEMENT
Wheel cylinder 9-23 Valve guides 3-62 MPI 5-37
EARLY FUEL EVAPORATION Valve seats 3-61 TBI 5-27
SYSTEM 4-25 Valve springs 3-60 FUEL SYSTEM
EGR VALVE 4-10 Valves 3-60 Carbureted 5-2
ELECTRIC FUEL PUMP Water pump 3-55 Diesel 5-41
MPI 5-34 ENGINE EMISSION CONTROLS FUEL TANK 5-44
TBI 5-26 Early fuel evaporation system 4-25 GEARSHIFT LINKAGE
ELECTRONIC CONTROL MODULE Electronic spark control system 4-74 Automatic transmission 7-55
Feedback carburetors 4-16 Electronic spark timing system 4-24 Manual transmission 7-5
Multi-port fuel injection 4-102 Evaporative canister 1-18,4-7 HALFSHAFTS 7-46
Throttle body fuel injection 4-71 Exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) HEATER
ELECTRONIC ENGINE CONTROLS 4-15 system 4-10 Blower 6-9
 INDEX 10-37
Control panel 6-9 MANIFOLDS RELIEVING FUEL SYSTEM PRESSURE
Core 6-9 Exhaust 3-50 MPI 5-34
HOSES 1-24 Intake 3-44 TBI 5-26
HOSES AND LINES 9-7 MANUAL TRANSMISSION RING GEAR 3-86
HOW TO USE THIS BOOK 1-2 Adjustments 7-5 RINGS 3-80
HYDRO-BOOST SYSTEM 9-7 Back-up light switch 7-9 ROCKER ARMS 3-43
IDENTIFICATION Identification 7-5 ROCKER STUDS 343
Drive axle 1-13 Linkage 7-5 ROUTINE MAINTENANCE 1-13
Engine 1-8 Removal and installation 7-9 SAFETY MEASURES 1-4
Model 1-7 Troubleshooting 7-2 SENDING UNITS AND SENSORS 3-18
Serial number 1-6 MASTER CYLINDER 1-45, 7-52, 9-4 SENSOR LOCATIONS 3-19
Vehicle 1-6 MODEL IDENTIFICATION 1-7 SERIAL NUMBER LOCATION 1-6
IDLE AIR CONTROL VALVE MODULE (IGNITION) 3-7 SHOCK ABSORBERS
MPI 5-38 MUFFLER 3-88 Front 8-5
TBI 5-27 MULTI-PORT FUEL INJECTION Rear 8-12
IDLE SPEED ADJUSTMENT (MPI) 4-102 SLAVE CYLINDER 7-52
MPI 5-40 NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH 7-56 SPARK PLUG DIAGNOSIS 2-27
TBI 5-33 OIL AND FILTER CHANGE SPARK PLUG WIRES 2-6
IDLE SPEED AND MIXTURE (ENGINE) 1-38 SPARKPLUGS 2-3
ADJUSTMENT 2-25 OIL AND FUEL SPECIAL TOOLS 1-4
IGNITION COIL 3-4 RECOMMENDATIONS 1-37 SPECIFICATIONS CHARTS
IGNITION MODULE 3-7 OIL LEVEL CHECK Brakes 9-64
IGNITION TIMING 2-23 Engine 1-37 Camshaft 3-30
INSTRUMENT CLUSTER 6-54 Transmission 1-41 Capacities 1-50
INSTRUMENTS AND SWITCHES OIL PAN 3-63 Crankshaft and connecting rod 3-32
Cluster 6-54 OIL PUMP 3-65 General engine 3-27
Gauges 6-54 OXYGEN (02) SENSOR 4-14 Piston and ring 3-34
Radio 6-34 OXYGEN SENSOR 3-21 Preventive Maintenance 1-50
Speedometer 6-42 PARKING BRAKE Torque 3-36
INTAKE MANIFOLD 3-44 Adjustment 9-25 Tune-up 2-2
INTERIOR Removal and installation 9-24 Valves 3-29
Console 10-10 PCV VALVE 1-17,4-5 Wheel alignment 8-9
Door glass & regulator 10-18 PICKUP COIL 3-4 SPEEDOMETER CABLE 642
Door locks 10-15 PISTON PIN 3-78 SPRINGS
Door panels 10-10 PISTONS 3-77 Front 8-5
Electric window motor 10-21 POWER BOOSTER Rear 8-11
Headliner 10-13 Operating principles 9-3 STABILIZER BAR
Inside mirror 10-23 Removal and installation 9-6 Front 8-6
Instrument Panel & Pad 10-9 POWER STEERING GEAR STAIN REMOVAL 10-29
Power seat motor 10-25 Removal and installation 8-19 STARTER
Seat belt systems 10-26 POWER STEERING PUMP Brush replacement 3-15
Seats 10-23 Adjustments 8-21 Drive replacement 3-14
Windshield glass 10-21 Fluid level 1-46 Overhaul 3-14
JACKING POINTS 1-48 Removal and installation 8-20 Removal and installation 3-13
JUMP STARTING 1-20 Troubleshooting 8-24 Solenoid or relay replacement 3-17
KNUCKLES 8-7 PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE Troubleshooting 3-12
LIGHTING CHARTS 1-50 STEERING COLUMN
Headlights 6-47 PROPORTIONING VALVE 9-7 Removal and installation 8-19
Marker lights 6-47 PULSE AIR INJECTION STEERING GEAR
Signal and marker lights 6-47 SYSTEM 4-21 Power 8-19
LOWER BALL JOINT 8-5 RADIATOR 1-43 STEERING LINKAGE
LOWER CONTROL ARM 8-6 RADIATOR 3-54 Tie rod ends 8-19
MAIN BEARINGS 3-84 RADIO 6-34 STEERING LOCK 8-17
MAINTENANCE INTERVALS REAR MAIN OIL SEAL 3-81 STEERING WHEEL 8-15
CHART 1-50 REAR SUSPENSION STRIPPED THREADS 3-26
MAINTENANCE REMINDER Bearings 8-13 SWITCHES
LIGHT 4-13 Shock absorbers 8-12 Back-up light 6-46
MANIFOLD PRESSURE SENSOR 4-71 Springs 8-11 Headlight 6-44
10-38 INDEX
Windshield wiper 6-43 Gauges 6-54
TAILPIPE 3-88 Headlights 6-53
THERMOSTAT 3-44 Heater 6-56
THERMOSTATIC AIR CLEANER 4-9 Lights 6-53
THROTTLE BODY FUEL INJECTION Manual transmission 7-2
SYSTEM (TBI) 4-65 Power steering pump 8-24
THROTTLE BODY SERVICE Tires 1-56
MPI 5-35 Torque converter 7-66
TBI 5-26 Turn signal switch 8-22
THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR Turn signals and flashers 6-52
MPI 4-109,5-39 Wheels 1-56
TBI 4-72,5-32 Windshield wipers 6-56
TIE ROD ENDS 8-19 TUNE-UP
TIMING 2-23 Idle speed ancTmixture 2-25
TIMING CHAIN 3-71 Ignition Timing 2-23
TIMING GEARS 3-67 Procedures 2-3
TIRES Spark plug wires 2-6
Buying 1-35 Spark plugs 2-3
Inflation 1-34 Specifications 2-2
Rotation 1-34 Troubleshooting 2-11
Storage 1-34 Valve lash adjustment 2-25
Tread depth 1-34 TURN SIGNAL SWITCH 8-16
Wear problems 1-34 U-JOINTS
TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT 1-2 Overhaul 7-48
TRAILER TOWING 1-47 Removal 7-46
TRAILER WIRING 6-50 VALVE GUIDES 3-62
TRANSMISSION CONVERTER CLUTCH VALVE LIFTERS 3-62
SYSTEM 4-24 VALVE SEATS 3-61
TROUBLE CODE CHARTS VALVE SERVICE 3-60
C4 system 4-26 VALVE SPECIFICATIONS 3-29
TROUBLE CODES VALVE SPRINGS 3-61
Accessing codes 2-12 VEHICLE IDENTIFICATION 1-6
Clearing codes 2-12 WATER PUMP 3-55
TROUBLESHOOTING WHEEL ALIGNMENT
Air conditioning 1-54 Front 8-8
Automatic transmission 7-65 Specifications 8-9
Battery and starting WHEEL BEARINGS 1-47
systems 3-93 WHEELS 1-56
Brakes 9-65 WINDSHIELD WIPERS
Charging system 3-93 Arm and blade 1-31,6-6
Clutch 7-64 Linkage and motor 6-37
Cooling system 3-98 Switch 6-43
Cruise control 6-33 Troubleshooting 6-39
Engine mechanical 3-94 WIRING DIAGRAMS 6-58
Modern cars and trucks require a new
breed of service manual. Total Car Care
is the only manual you’ll need to keep
your vehicle in peak condition.
• Owner maintenance
• Up-to-date specification charts
• Expanded index that helps you locate
information FAST
• Complete wiring diagrams
• Vacuum diagrams
• Detailed procedures, specifications,
exploded views and photos specifically
for your car