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 Rick Steves
SCOTLAND
Rick Steves with Cameron Hewitt
CONTENTS
Scotland
Edinburgh
Glasgow
Stirling & Nearby
St. Andrews
The Scottish Highlands
Oban & the Inner Hebrides
Glencoe & Fort William
Isle of Skye
Inverness & Loch Ness
Eastern Scotland
Northern Scotland
Scotland: Past & Present
Practicalities
Appendix
Index
Map Index
Credits
Copyright
 Welcome to Rick Steves’ Europe
Travel is intensified living—maximum thrills per minute and one

of the last great sources of legal adventure. Travel is freedom. It’s

recess, and we need it.

I discovered a passion for European travel as a teen and have

been sharing it ever since—through my bus tours, public television

and radio shows, and travel guidebooks. Over the years, I’ve taught

millions of travelers how to best enjoy Europe’s blockbuster sights

—and experience “Back Door” discoveries that most tourists miss.

This book offers a balanced mix of Scotland’s rich cultural

heritage and the rugged beauty of its countryside. It’s selective:

Rather than listing dozens of islands, I recommend only the best

ones. And it’s in-depth: My self-guided city walks and driving tours

provide insight into the country’s vibrant history and today’s living,

breathing culture.
 I advocate traveling simply and smartly. Take advantage of my

money- and time-saving tips on sightseeing, transportation, and

more. Try local, characteristic alternatives to expensive hotels and

restaurants. In many ways, spending more money only builds a

thicker wall between you and what you traveled so far to see.

We visit Scotland to experience it—to become temporary locals.

Thoughtful travel engages us with the world, as we learn to

appreciate other cultures and new ways to measure quality of life.

Judging by the positive feedback I receive from readers, this book

will help you enjoy a fun, affordable, and rewarding vacation—

whether it’s your first trip or your tenth.

Happy travels!
SCOTLAND
Scotland’s Top Destinations
Map: Scotland’s Top Destinations
THE LOWLANDS
THE HIGHLANDS
Planning Your Trip
DESIGNING AN ITINERARY
BEFORE YOU GO
Travel Smart
Rugged, colorful, and feisty, Scotland stands apart. From its stony

architecture to its unmanicured landscape to its charming people—

and their peculiar fondness for haggis—this little land packs a big

punch. A proud identity unites the sparsely populated country, all

the way from the southern Lowlands, which border England just
north of Hadrian’s Wall, up to the Norwegian latitudes of the rocky

Highlands and remote coastal islands.

Scotland is one of three countries, along with England and

Wales, that make up Great Britain. Add Northern Ireland, and

you’ve got the United Kingdom (UK). Scotland is not a sovereign

state (it shares the monarchy with the rest of the UK), but it is a

“nation” in that it has its own traditions, ethnic identity, languages,

and football league. To some extent, it even has its own government.

In modern times, Scotland has enjoyed its greatest measure of

political autonomy in centuries—the Scottish parliament convened

in 1999 for the first time in almost 300 years. Though its powers are

limited (most major decisions are still made in London), the Scottish

people are enjoying increased self-governance. The question of total

independence from the UK remains a pivotal issue in Scottish

politics.

Scotland even has its own currency…sort of. Scotland uses the

same coins as England, Wales, and Northern Ireland but prints its

own bills, featuring Scottish rather than English people and

landmarks. Fortunately for visitors, all UK currency works

throughout the UK.

 Building-size murals enliven Glasgow’s streets; Arthur’s Seat hovers

over Edinburgh’s old town.

Across Scotland, fortunes were long tied to the sea; its leading

cities, Edinburgh and Glasgow, are located along firths (estuaries),

where major rivers connect to ocean waters. Outside those cities,

Scotland features misty glens, brooding castles, windswept moors,

peaty whisky, shaggy Highland cattle (“hairy coos”), and a vivid,

invigorating culture.

The northern Highlands feature a wild, undulating terrain,

punctuated by lochs (lakes) and fringed by sea lochs (inlets) and

islands. The southern Lowlands are relatively flat and urbanized.

The geologic fault line that divides the Highlands from the

Lowlands also divides Scotland culturally. Historically, the country

had two distinct identities: refined Lowlanders in the southern

flatlands and rougher Highlanders in the northern wilderness. After

the 16th-century Scottish Reformation, the Lowlanders embraced

Protestantism, while most Highlanders stuck to Catholicism.

Today, the Lowlands are dominated by rival cities: bustling

Edinburgh, on the east coast, and friendly Glasgow, on the west.

Edinburgh, the capital, teems with history and is rich in culture. It’s

been home to esteemed writers (Robert “Rabbie” Burns, Robert

Louis Stevenson, Sir Walter Scott) and hosts a huge international

arts festival every August. Glasgow, once gloomy and industrial, is

now a hip, laid-back center of art, music, and architecture. Other

Lowlands highlights include the town of Stirling with its grand

castle, and the university town and golf mecca of St. Andrews.

The Kilt
The kilt, Scotland’s national dress, is intimately tied to the

country’s history. It originated in the 1500s as a multipurpose

robe, toga, tent, poncho, and ground cloth. A wearer would lay

a length of fabric (roughly 2 x 6 yards) on the ground, scrunch it

up into pleats, then wrap it around the waist and belt it. Extra

fabric was thrown over the shoulder or tucked into the belt,

creating both a rakish sash and a rucksack-like pouch.

The colors and patterns of the first kilts depended on who

wove them and what dyes were available in a locale (colors were

muted, unlike later kilts). Because members of one clan tended

to live in the same area, they often wore similar patterns—but

they weren’t specifically designed to represent a single clan until

much later.

The kilt became standard Highlands dress and a patriotic

statement during conflicts with England. After the Battle of

Culloden in 1746, the victorious English dismantled the

Scottish clan system. Wearing the kilt, speaking Gaelic, and

playing the bagpipes were all outlawed.

In 1782, kilts were permitted again, but by then the tradition

had faded, and many Scots no longer wanted to wear one. Then,

in 1822 King George IV visited Edinburgh (the first royal visit in

200 years). In a not-so-subtle assertion of his authority over

Scotland, he wore a kilt. That bit of pageantry charmed Scottish

noblemen, and the kilt was in vogue once more.

During the king’s visit, Sir Walter Scott organized a Highland

festival that reinvented and romanticized the image of

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