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 Rick Steves
VENICE
Rick Steves & Gene Openshaw
CONTENTS
Venice
Orientation to Venice
Sights in Venice
Self-Guided Tours
Grand Canal Cruise
St. Mark’s Square Tour
St. Mark’s Basilica Tour
Doge’s Palace Tour
Correr Museum Tour
San Giorgio Maggiore Tour
Accademia Tour
Peggy Guggenheim Collection Tour
La Salute Church Tour
Ca’ Rezzonico Tour
Frari Church Tour
Scuola San Rocco Tour
Venice’s Lagoon Tour
Self-Guided Walks
 St. Mark’s to Rialto Loop Walk
Rialto to Frari Church Walk
St. Mark’s to San Zaccaria Walk
Sleeping in Venice
Eating in Venice
Venice with Children
Shopping in Venice
Nightlife in Venice
Venice Connections
Near Venice
Padua
Vicenza
Verona
Ravenna
Venetian History
Practicalities
Appendix
Index
Map Index
Credits
Copyright
 Welcome to Rick Steves’ Europe
Travel is intensified living—maximum thrills per minute and one

of the last great sources of legal adventure. Travel is freedom. It’s

recess, and we need it.

I discovered a passion for European travel as a teen and have

been sharing it ever since—through my bus tours, public television

and radio shows, and travel guidebooks. Over the years, I’ve taught

millions of travelers how to best enjoy Europe’s blockbuster sights

—and experience “Back Door” discoveries that most tourists miss.

Written with my talented co-author, Gene Openshaw, this book

offers a balanced mix of Venice’s artistic splendors and backstreet

charm, from its impressive museums to its tranquil and colorful

canals. It’s selective: Rather than listing a dozen glassblowing

demonstrations, we recommend only the best. And it’s in-depth:

Our self-guided museum tours and city walks provide insight into

the city’s vibrant history and today’s living, breathing culture.

We advocate traveling simply and smartly. Take advantage of our

money- and time-saving tips on sightseeing, transportation, and

more. Try local, characteristic alternatives to expensive hotels and

restaurants. In many ways, spending more money only builds a

thicker wall between you and what you traveled so far to see.

We visit Venice to experience it—to become temporary locals.

Thoughtful travel engages us with the world, as we learn to

appreciate other cultures and new ways to measure quality of life.

Judging by the positive feedback we receive from readers, this

book will help you enjoy a fun, affordable, and rewarding vacation—

whether it’s your first trip or your tenth.

Buon viaggio! Happy travels!

VENICE
Map: Venice by Neighborhood
VENICE DISTRICTS
Planning and Budgeting
PLANNING YOUR TIME
PLANNING YOUR BUDGET
BEFORE YOU GO
Travel Smart
Engineers love Venice—a completely man-made environment

rising from the sea, with no visible means of support. Romantics

revel in its elegant decay, seeing the peeling plaster and seaweed-

covered stairs as a metaphor for beauty in decline. And first-time

visitors are often stirred deeply, awaking from their ordinary lives to

a fantasy world unlike anything they’ve experienced before.

Frankly, Venice can also be an overcrowded, prepackaged tourist

trap. But Venice is unique. Built on a hundred islands with wealth

from trade with the East, Venice’s exotic-looking palaces are laced

together by sun-speckled canals. It can seem like one giant

amusement park for grown-ups, centuries in the making. And yet,

the longer you’re here—and the more you explore its back streets—

the clearer it becomes that this is a real, living town, with its own

personality and challenges.

By day, Venice is a collection of churches and museums, packed

with great art. Nearly everything is within a half-hour walk. Climb

the Campanile bell tower for stunning seascape views. Linger over

lunch, trying to crack a crustacean with weird legs and antennae. Sip

a spritz at a café on St. Mark’s Square while an orchestra plays “New

York, New York.”

At night, when the day-trippers have gone, another Venice

appears. Dance across a floodlit square. Or pretend its Carnevale

time, don a mask—or just a fresh shirt—and become someone else

for the night.

With mountains of capital, plenty of traders with ready ships, and

a strong military, Venice was a commercial powerhouse from roughly

1100 to 1500. While the city-state didn’t have vast land holdings, it

was a mighty trading empire—built upon a network of

Mediterranean ports and a mastery of the sea. If you needed gold

from Egypt, silk from Byzantium, or a fleet of ships for the Crusades,

Venice delivered.
 Basilica di San Vitale in Ravenna; twilight dining with a view in Venice

But with the discovery of trade routes outside the Mediterranean

—to America in 1492 and to India in 1498—Venice’s power

plummeted. As it fell, its appetite for decadence grew. Through the

17th and 18th centuries, the Venetians partied on, as if drunk on

accumulated wealth. Venice was easy pickings for Napoleon in 1797

and passed into Austria’s hands after Waterloo. The city threw its hat

in with Italy in 1866 and not much has changed here since.

Today, Venice’s beautifully decrepit cityscape enchants visitors,

who are here to soak up the atmosphere as much as the sights.

Among the city’s iconic attractions are St. Mark’s Basilica and the

Bridge of Sighs, the Doge’s Palace and Ca’ Rezzonico palazzo, as well

as the Correr, Accademia, and Peggy Guggenheim museums.

Venice’s calm lagoon harbors the islands of glassmaking Murano,

colorful Burano, and the city’s birthplace, Torcello, all connected by

vaporetti. Nearby towns on the mainland are art-filled Padua, fun-to-

explore Verona, and historic Ravenna, glittering with Byzantine

mosaics. All are worthy of a day trip…but be back in Venice by

nightfall to enjoy its ethereal beauty.

Unmasking Venice’s Carnevale

 Every February Venice celebrates Carnevale—its unique take

on Mardi Gras—with a weeks-long extravaganza of costumes,

food, drink, and entertainment.

In pagan times Carnevale was a wild, end-of-winter festival.

With Christianity’s arrival, Carnevale evolved into the final

debauchery before Lent (the period before Easter when

Christians abstain from worldly things). Aristocrats from all

over Europe, Africa, and the Middle East came to revel in

hedonism, wearing ornate masks and outrageous costumes for

anonymity.

Like Easter, Carnevale’s start date changes from year to year.

The festival can extend a dozen days or more, always ending on

the day before Ash Wednesday—called Fat Tuesday or Shrove

Tuesday. It kicks off with a centuries-old ritual: The Flight of the

Angel, when a young woman in a costume (and harness) floats

down from St. Mark’s Basilica to greet the thousands gathered

in the square. In the weeks that follow, parties, dinners, and

parades fill Venice’s streets and canals. The energy ramps up as

Fat Tuesday approaches, and the festivities end with a huge

dance and fireworks on St. Mark’s Square.

For a visit during Carnevale, prepare for high prices and

reserve a room as soon as your dates are set. If Venice is full,

you could stay in nearby Padua (30 minutes away by train).

Rent a costume and join in the fun, from intimate dinners and

masquerade balls to cabaret shows and cruises (www.Venice-

Carnival-Italy.com).
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