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Made Up How the Beauty Industry Manipulates Consumers Preys
on Women s Insecurities and Promotes Unattainable Beauty
Standards Martha Laham

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Made Up
Made Up
How the Beauty Industry
Manipulates
Consumers, Preys on Women’s
Insecurities, and Promotes
Unattainable Beauty Standards

Martha Laham
 ROWMAN & LITTLEFIELD
Lanham • Boulder • New York • London
Published by Rowman & Littlefield
An imprint of The Rowman & Littlefield Publishing Group, Inc.
4501 Forbes Boulevard, Suite 200, Lanham, Maryland 20706
www.rowman.com

6 Tinworth Street, London SE11 5AL, United Kingdom

Copyright © 2020 by The Rowman & Littlefield Publishing Group,

Inc.

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any

form or by any electronic or mechanical means, including
information storage and retrieval systems, without written
permission from the publisher, except by a reviewer who may quote
passages in a review.

British Library Cataloguing in Publication Information Available

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
Names: Laham, Martha, author.
Title: Made up : how the beauty industry manipulates consumers,
preys on women’s insecurities, and promotes unattainable beauty
standards / Martha Laham.
Description: Lanham, Maryland : Rowman & Littlefield, 2020. |
Includes bibliographical references and index.
Identifiers: LCCN 2020003493 (print) | LCCN 2020003494 (ebook) |
ISBN 9781538138045 (cloth) | ISBN 9781538138052 (ebook)
Subjects: LCSH: Cosmetics industry—Social aspects. | Feminine
beauty (Aesthetics)—Social aspects. | Beauty, Personal—Social
aspects. | Beauty culture—Social aspects.
Classification: LCC HD9970.5.C672 .L34 2020 (print) | LCC
HD9970.5.C672 (ebook) |DDC 338.4/766855—dc23
LC record available at https://lccn.loc.gov/2020003493
LC ebook record available at https://lccn.loc.gov/2020003494

The paper used in this publication meets the minimum

requirements of American National Standard for Information
Sciences—Permanence of Paper for Printed Library Materials,
ANSI/NISO Z39.48-1992.
To my family and friends
Contents

Cover
HalfTitle
Title
Copyright
Dedication
Contents
Foreword by Jerome R. Potozkin
Acknowledgments
Introduction

Part I:The Beauty Industry

1 The Beauty Industrial Complex
2 The Beauty Industry Unmasked
3 The Beauty Seekers

Part II:The Beauty Ideal

4 The Perfect Woman
5 The Myth Makers

Part III:The Mirror Makers

6 The Decorative Sex
7 The Persuaders

Part IV:The Changelings

8 The Shapeshifters
9 The Skin Trade
Conclusion
Notes
References
Resources
About the Author
Foreword
Jerome R. Potozkin

I have had the privilege of working with Martha Laham for over two
decades. She is a no-nonsense, bright, and insightful author and
professor of advertising and marketing who has done extensive
research on the beauty industry. Made Up: How the Beauty Industry
Manipulates Consumers, Preys on Women’s Insecurities, and
Promotes Unattainable Beauty Standards represents the culmination
of her research and is essential reading for anyone interested in this
topic. The beauty industry generates billions of dollars annually,
more than the gross domestic product of many nations. Professor
Laham explores the origins of this industry and the factors leading to
its continued growth. As a board-certified dermatologist specializing
in cosmetic dermatology, I have seen firsthand what is described in
the book, from the unrealistic pressures to look a certain way to how
technology, with the growth of social media and the selfie, has led
people to scrutinize their appearance as never before.
 This book describes the history of the beauty industry dating
back to ancient Egypt. It gives perspective to the power and impact
of the industry’s early pioneers, such as Josephine Esther Mentzer,
born to Jewish immigrants and the founder of Estée Lauder. She was
committed to her mission and recognized early on that “to sell a
cream, you sold a dream.” An enterprise that started in a kitchen
ended up as a multibillion-dollar company. You will learn how the
beauty industry is regulated and how cosmetics differ from
pharmaceuticals in their regulation.
With her background and expertise in advertising and marketing,
Professor Laham expertly dissects how the cosmetics industry
targets people of all ages. Baby boomers are thought to be obsessed
with youth and are targeted based on the “anti-aging” features of
lotions and potions. On the other hand, the younger generations
have been greatly affected by the selfie craze. The beauty industry
has learned how to push the emotional buttons of each generation.
Have you ever wondered what defines beauty? You will learn
how iconic figures such as Audrey Hepburn and Elizabeth Taylor
helped define the feminine ideal. The book outlines “ideal” beauty
trends over time and provides an insider’s view of what cosmetic
dermatologists and cosmetic surgeons have studied through the
years. In addition to the ways that beauty is defined, Professor
Laham provides great insight into how gender stereotypes are
created and perpetuated in ads that use gender-stereotypic images.
The reader is presented with multiple examples that illuminate the
conditioning we are unwittingly exposed to. We also learn the impact
of the feminist movement on advertisers, leading to regulatory
action. Hand in hand with the beauty and cosmetics industry,
advertisers have engaged in the objectification of women and have
used sexually charged campaigns to promote beauty products. They
have tapped into our obsession with celebrity to sell their products.
In my practice, I have noticed that most people are their own
worst critics when it comes to their appearance. Professor Laham
explores the concept of body image and the effect of advertising on
our psyche. We learn how repeated exposure to idealized images
lowers our self-perceptions of attractiveness. The deck is stacked
against us, as many images are not “real.” In the pre-digital era,
images were idealized through airbrushing. Today’s images can be
easily altered with digital technology. The images that we are
repeatedly exposed to affect us in a way that is far more than skin
deep, and Professor Laham discusses the ill effects of trying to
improve images of ourselves in the section “Photoshopping May Be
Bad for Your Health,” in chapter 8.
The final chapter delves into the growth of aesthetic medicine.
Current trends have demonstrated the common acceptance of
cosmetic surgery. The most dramatic growth that has trended
nationwide, which I have seen in my practice over the past two
decades, is in nonsurgical cosmetic procedures. Professor Laham
accurately describes how increasing numbers of people, driven by
unrealistic expectations, want to completely change their appearance
or look like a celebrity as opposed to having a more realistic goal of
looking like the best natural version of themselves. She details how
the explosion of aesthetic medicine has also led to unskilled and
unethical practitioners entering this arena.
Both entertaining and informative, Made Up is a must-read for
anyone interested in the cosmetics, beauty, and advertising industry.

Jerome R. Potozkin, MD, is an award-winning board-certified

dermatologist and the author of Botox and Beyond: Your Guide to
Safe, Nonsurgical, Cosmetic Procedures.
Acknowledgments

I would like to express my genuine appreciation to several people

without whose support and encouragement this book would not
have been possible.
I owe a special debt of gratitude to my extraordinary copyeditor,
Elissa Rabellino, for her incisive editorial skills and her invaluable
assistance in preparing the manuscript. I am equally grateful to my
attorney, Scott Dallas, for his helpful guidance on the legal and
regulatory landscape of the cosmetics industry. I also wish to thank
Lorna Garano and Peter Handel for their unfailing reassurance and
their invaluable feedback on the book’s concept.
I am much obliged to three generations of marketing and
advertising students who joined me in spirited discussions and
debates on gender representation in advertising. This book is in
large part a response to their abiding interest in this topic.
 I would also like to thank my colleagues in the Business
Administration Department, the dean of the business division, the
vice president of instruction, and the president of Diablo Valley
College, for their validation of my research interests.
Thanks to everyone on the Rowman & Littlefield team who gave
expert guidance, technical help, and editorial support. My special
thanks go out to executive editor Suzanne Staszak-Silva and editorial
assistant Charlotte Gosnell. I also wish to acknowledge Rowman &
Littlefield’s highly professional production staff, including senior
production editor Alden Perkins, copyeditor Jocquan Mooney,
designer Jen Huppert, typesetter Jason Rock, and proofreader Beth
Easter.
And last but hardly least, I am most grateful to my family and
friends for their unwavering love, optimism, and enthusiasm. Thank
you for always believing in me and urging me to press on.
Introduction

When a woman stays young and beautiful forever, the world is hers.
—Queen Ravenna, Snow White and the Huntsman (2012)

Once upon a time over two hundred years ago, Jacob and Wilhelm
Grimm, a pair of nineteenth-century university-trained philologists
and librarians, published their compendium of European folktales
called Children’s and Household Tales (1812), more commonly
known as Grimm’s Fairy Tales in the English-speaking world. Over
the next four decades, the German brothers went on to publish six
more editions, tinkering with their tales from one edition to the next
until the seventh and final edition in 1857, the one best known to us
today.
Modern audiences are mostly familiar with “Disneyfied” versions
of the Grimm brothers’ timeless tales. These singsong, child-friendly
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