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Cruises
& Ports of Call
From U.S. & Canadian Home
Ports to the Caribbean,
Alaska, Hawaii & More
2008
by Heidi Sarna & Matt Hannafin
“Strategies for getting the best price, including when to book. Ship ratings, cabin eval-
uation.”
—Newark Star Ledger
“. . . is one of the most thorough, easy-to-navigate references that has stats, reviews
and realties of both ships and ports.”
—Pittsburgh Post Gazette
Cruises
& Ports of Call
From U.S. & Canadian Home
Ports to the Caribbean,
Alaska, Hawaii & More
2008
by Heidi Sarna & Matt Hannafin
“Strategies for getting the best price, including when to book. Ship ratings, cabin eval-
uation.”
—Newark Star Ledger
“. . . is one of the most thorough, easy-to-navigate references that has stats, reviews
and realties of both ships and ports.”
—Pittsburgh Post Gazette
Published by:
8 Cozumel & the Yucatán Peninsula . . .546 18 The Panama Canal . . . . . . . . . . . . .582
9 Curaçao . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .555 19 Puerto Rico . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .585
10 Dominica . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .558 San Juan as a Port
11 Grand Cayman . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .561 of Embarkation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .586
12 Grand Turk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .563 Walking Tour: Old San Juan . . . . . .587
13 Grenada . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .566 Puerto Rico Golf Excursions . . . . . .592
14 Jamaica . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .568 20 St. Barts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .592
Montego Bay Golf Excursions . . . . .572 21 St. Kitts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .594
15 Key West . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .573 22 St. Lucia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .596
16 Martinique . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .577 23 St. Martin/Sint Maarten . . . . . . . . .599
Martinique Golf Excursions . . . . . . .580 24 U.S. Virgin Islands: St. Thomas &
St. John . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .603
17 Nevis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .580
13 Bermuda 652
1 Hamilton . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .654 3 Royal Naval Dockyard . . . . . . . . . . .657
2 St. George’s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .656
14 Hawaii 658
1 Oahu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .660 3 Maui . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .666
If You’re Embarking in Honolulu . . .662 4 The Big Island . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .669
2 Kauai . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .664
CONTENTS vii
Index 702
List of Maps
Acknowledgments
A select group of travel writers and experts contributed to this book. Mike Driscoll, editor of
the probing industry newsletter Cruise Week, provided insights into current booking trends.
Merchant Marine officer and travel writer Ben Lyons wrote our new review of American Cruise
Lines and helped out on a few other lines too. Our editor, Naomi Kraus, kept our Orlando
coverage up to date. Big thanks go out to Frommer’s authors Lesley Abravanel, Mary Herczog,
Marie Morris, Bill Goodwin, Matthew Poole, Mary K. Tilghman, Leslie Brokaw, Lauren
McCutcheon, and Mark Hiss, who helped out with our ports of embarkation coverage. We
also appreciate the efforts Felisa Mahabal and Steamship Historical Society of America direc-
tor Steve Swanson put into updating our Caribbean coverage. For their work in previous editions
of this book, big thanks go to writer/biologist Dr. Christina Colon, SeaTrade Cruise Review
U.S. editor Anne Kalosh, cruise expert Art Sbarsky, travel journalist Marilyn Green, ship
authority and author Ted Scull, writer/travelers Ken Lindley and Darlene Simidian, and
passenger ship expert Alan Zamchick.
Lastly, Matt would like to thank his wife, Rebecca, who thinks writing about cruises is a
really strange way to make a living (or at least part of one). Ain’t that the truth. Heidi thanks
her best shipmates, twin sons Kavi and Tejas, for being such good sailors at the ripe old age of
five (15 cruises and counting), and salutes hubby Arun for going along with the crazy cruising
life all these years.
An Invitation to the Reader
In researching this book, we discovered many wonderful places—hotels, restaurants, shops, and
more. We’re sure you’ll find others. Please tell us about them, so we can share the information
with your fellow travelers in upcoming editions. If you were disappointed with a recommenda-
tion, we’d love to know that, too. Please write to:
Frommer’s Cruises & Ports of Call 2008
Wiley Publishing, Inc. • 111 River St. • Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774
An Additional Note
Please be advised that travel information is subject to change at any time—and this is especially
true of prices. We therefore suggest that you write or call ahead for confirmation when making
your travel plans. The authors, editors, and publisher cannot be held responsible for the expe-
riences of readers while traveling. Your safety is important to us, however, so we encourage you
to stay alert and be aware of your surroundings. Keep a close eye on cameras, purses, and wal-
lets, all favorite targets of thieves and pickpockets.
Frommers.com
Now that you have this guidebook to help you plan a great trip, visit our website at www.
frommers.com for additional travel information on more than 3,600 destinations. We update
features regularly to give you instant access to the most current trip-planning information avail-
able. At Frommers.com, you’ll find scoops on the best airfares, lodging rates, and car rental bar-
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Cruising 2008: Big Boats,
Big Business
Iunlikely
f you’ve picked up this book, it’s
we have to talk you into a
them into repeat customers. We’ll be
honest, though. It’s not this stuff that
cruise—that idea’s probably already in grabs us—not the three-story theaters or
your head. And anyway, it’s not our job to sushi bars, not the rock-climbing walls or
try to talk you into anything. We know the hot rock massages or the surfing sim-
some people just love traveling by ship ulators, either. It’s simply being at sea on
and others just hate it. We also know that a ship. It’s the teak decks, white steel rail-
some people just assume they’d hate it, ings, thick mooring lines, and that distant
without having the full story. rumble of the engines way down in the
Because, y’know, it’s a pretty big story, hull. It’s the feeling that you’ve unteth-
and new chapters are being added every ered yourself from the world, as you stand
year. Time was, the cruise biz was a pretty on deck at night, lean over the rail, and
homogenous cow, attracting mostly older watch the waves break around your ship’s
folks plus a smattering of honeymooners bow as it heads to the next port of call.
and party-makers. They’re all still there, The sea: It’s a powerful thing.
but today so is everyone else: young fam-
ilies, young professionals, young couples CRUISING TODAY: NEW SHIPS,
in Harley shirts, baggy-jeans teens, mid- MORE PAX
dle-aged gym rats, multigenerational Between 2000 and 2007, the major lines
family groups, Democrats, Republicans, launched some 80 new cruise ships, and
Rastafarians, and a corps of Canadians, that’s not even counting foreign and
Brits, and other “others” to help us all get small-ship cruise lines. Fortunately for
along. the industry, they’ve been able to per-
In a certain sense, it’s an old-fashioned suade more and more passengers (or
kind of vacation, a shout back to the old “pax” in agent-speak) to come aboard to
European Grand Tours, with travelers fill all those ships: Just over 3.6 million
hitting a region’s high points in quick North Americans took a cruise in 1990.
succession—bam, bam, bam—then get- By 2005 that number was up to nearly 10
ting back aboard ship to socialize with million and in 2007 it was expected to
people who were strangers until circum- top 10.6 million, with many cruising
stance pushed them together. In another from the growing number of home ports
sense, though, cruising is a thoroughly around the country.
modern Millie, where the newest ships The industry keeps on building new
are packed with every possible widget to ships, though not quite at the pace of a
win over prospective travelers and turn few years back. Six major new vessels
2 C R U I S I N G 2 0 0 8 : B I G B OAT S, B I G B U S I N E S S
launched in 2007: Carnival’s Freedom, a standard outside cabin. Now click over
NCL’s Norwegian Gem, Princess’s Emer- to your favorite travel agency’s website
ald Princess, Royal Caribbean’s Liberty of and you’ll probably see that same cruise
the Seas, Cunard’s Queen Victoria, and going for $699. What gives?
Costa’s Costa Serena. Additionally, the Just like new-car prices, cruise line
year saw the introduction of three slightly brochure prices are notoriously inflated—
older, refurbished ships—Princess’s Royal in fact, some lines are talking about drop-
Princess and Azamara’s Journey and Quest, ping them from brochures altogether. In
all three midsize vessels originally built the meantime, you should basically just
for Renaissance Cruises. ignore brochure rates. Everything, and we
At press time, 2008 was shaping up to mean everything, is discounted. Other
be a five-megaship year, with the new guidebooks and articles print those
86,000-ton, 2,044-passenger Eurodam inflated brochure prices anyway, leaving
scheduled for HAL; the 118,000-ton, it up to you to take a guess at what the
2,850-passenger Solstice scheduled for real price may be. We don’t. Instead,
Celebrity; the 160,000-ton, 3,634-pas- we’ve partnered with the agency Just
senger Independence of the Seas coming for Cruisin’ Plus to provide you with the
Royal Caribbean; the 112,000-ton, actual prices consumers were paying for
3,006-passenger Splendor coming for cruises aboard all the ships reviewed in
Carnival; and the 133,500-ton, 3,300- this book. Each review shows you approx-
passenger Fantasia and 89,000-ton, imately how much you can expect to pay
2,550-passenger Poesia on deck for MSC. for an inside cabin (one without win-
With bookings up and the need to fill dows), an outside cabin (with windows or
more new ships decreasing, the ridicu- a balcony), and a small suite, and in chap-
lously low prices we were seeing just a few ter 2 we provide a chart that shows how
years ago have leveled off. You still won’t these prices compare with the published
pay brochure rates (see below), but $400 brochure rates, and with those of all the
weeklong cruises are nowhere near as other ships in the book.
commonplace as they were.
AND NOW, COMING TO
THE REAL SCOOP ON A PORT NEAR YOU . . .
CRUISE PRICES For the past 6 years, the big trend in the
Cruise pricing is really . . . well, dumb. cruise world is putting ships where people
Beyond the fuzzy math that often makes can get to them. It seems like an obvious
the new ships the cheapest to book, you idea, but for decades the cruise lines only
also have the problem of brochure prices. nibbled around its edges, homeporting
Check out Brochure X, which lists a most of their ships in Miami, Fort Laud-
weeklong sailing at $1,900 per person for erdale, Los Angeles, and a few other
C R U I S I N G 2 0 0 8 : B I G B OAT S, B I G B U S I N E S S 3
cities, and forcing people to fly to a port won’t. It’s all a matter of personality. Your
before their vacation could get underway. dream ship is probably out there, some-
Today, ships are sailing regularly from where—you just need to figure out what
more than two dozen U.S. and Cana- you want. If those huge Vegas-style float-
dian home ports, so unless you live in ing resorts you see advertised on TV
North Dakota, there’s a good chance you aren’t your cup of tea, there are also quiet,
can drive to your ship—saving yourself refined ships where you’re left to do your
both time and money. While you’re doing own thing, with outstanding service staff
that, you may just want to stick around standing by in case you need anything,
and see the sights, ’cause some of those anything at all. Other ships are more like
port cities are pretty interesting, whether intimate B&Bs, where the vibe is casual,
you’re sailing to the Caribbean from the cabins are cozy, and the focus is all on
New York, Charleston, Galveston, or history, culture, and the outdoors. A few
New Orleans; to Alaska from Seattle, San are honest-to-God sailing ships that offer
Francisco, or Vancouver; to Bermuda nostalgic adventure.
from Baltimore, Boston, or Philly; to the Chances are there’s a ship out there
Mexican Riviera from Los Angeles or with your name on it, and as your cruise
San Diego; to Hawaii from Ensenada or matchmakers, we’re here to help you
right from Honolulu; or to New England wade through the different options and
from Norfolk or Montreal. When you experiences and meet the cruise of your
add in small ships sailing from places dreams. To do this, we’ve divided the
such as Portland, Oregon; Warren, Rhode cruise lines into three main categories—
Island; and Memphis, Tennessee, you mainstream lines (chapter 6), ultralux-
realize there’s a whole lot of country out ury lines (chapter 7), and small ships,
there to explore. In chapter 9, “The Ports sailing ships, and adventure cruises
of Embarkation,” we discuss the high (chapter 8)—and developed a rating sys-
points of all the major cruise home ports, tem that judges them only against other
giving you the lowdown on what to see if ships in the same category: megaship
you’re going to be there only for a day or against megaship, luxe against luxe, small
two pre- or post-cruise. Chapters 10 ship against small ship.
through 16 give you the scoop on all the
major ports of call in all the so-called SAFETY AT SEA: MORE
“homeland cruising” regions, with info SECURITY, FEWER GERMS
on sights and attractions to see on your For better or worse, we’re currently living
own as well as recommendations for the in a security-obsessed world. People have
best shore excursions. to show ID to get into office buildings,
and take off their shoes to go through air-
FINDING A SHIP IS EASY, port X-rays, so you’d better believe secu-
BUT WILL YOU CLICK? rity measures are in place on cruise ships,
Comparing cruise ships and lines is like too.
scanning an online dating site: “Attractive All the major cruise lines have their
young cruise ship with nice body and own dedicated onboard security forces
good personality seeks friend for dating, who monitor people coming aboard (pas-
possible relationship.” The ship looks sengers, crew, delivery people, and con-
good, but we all know how photos can tractors) and keep an eye out during the
lie. Ditto for the descriptions. cruise, and we’re not just talking the kind
Just like in dating, there are ships that of rent-a-cops you see at your local con-
you’ll get along with and ships that you venience store. Some lines have even
4 C R U I S I N G 2 0 0 8 : B I G B OAT S, B I G B U S I N E S S
hired Gurkhas, the famed Nepalese that causes nausea, vomiting, and diar-
fighters, as onboard security personnel rhea. An extremely common bug that hits
and ex–Navy SEALs as top-level security some 23 million Americans a year
consultants, and have trained deck offi- (mostly on land), it’s also extremely con-
cers in how to react to takeover attempts. tagious. According to the Centers for
Other security measures are also in place, Disease Control (CDC), people infected
but the cruise lines prefer to keep them with norovirus can pass the bug on from
under their hats. the moment they begin feeling ill to
On a day-to-day basis, passengers will between 3 days and 2 weeks after they
mostly notice ship security when board- recover—meaning the cruise ship out-
ing, both initially and at the ports of call. breaks that seem to occur on a regular
Most cruise lines photograph passengers basis are probably the result of contagious
digitally at embarkation and then match passengers bringing the infection aboard,
their pictures to their faces every time rather than of unsanitary practices on the
they get back aboard thereafter. Digital ships themselves. Face it, cruise ships are
pass-cards also allow them to tell instantly a lot like kindergarten: When one kid
who’s aboard at any given time. Other shows up sick, everybody gets sick.
security processes include screening and In any case, don’t worry too much. It’s
X-raying of all hand-carried and checked no fun to have your vacation spoiled by
bags, the use of sniffer dogs in port, and illness, but norovirus causes no long-term
maintenance of a security zone around health effects for most people. Persons
cruise ships while they’re in port. Back- unable to replace liquids quickly
office changes include a rule that ships enough—generally the very young, the
must submit a complete list of passengers elderly, and people with weakened
and crew to the Coast Guard 96 hours immune systems—may become dehy-
before arriving at a U.S. port. Interna- drated and require special medical atten-
tionally, regulations issued by the Inter- tion, but that’s about the worst of it.
national Maritime Organization (IMO) More good news: Outbreaks have been
in 2004 require all ports around the on the downswing since they were first
world to operate within a consistent reported. Cruise lines are keeping a close
framework to address security issues. eye on boarding passengers for signs of
Many of these systems were already in illness, and have further stepped up their
place at most cruise lines and ports, so already vigilant sanitation routines to
passengers generally don’t notice much reduce the chance of transmission. A
difference. Exception: It may take you small outbreak on one of our cruises in
longer to get through the check-in 2006 was contained immediately after
process in the terminal. the first sick passengers were identified,
The other major cruise safety issue that and did not spread any further among
occasionally hits the news is norovirus passengers and crew.
(aka Norwalk-like virus), a stomach bug
The Best of Cruising
P eople are always asking us about our favorite ships, and we always say, “Well, what
do you like to do when you’re not on a ship?” In this section we’ve broken out differ-
ent kinds of cruises, interests, and destinations to help you find one that best matches
what you’re looking for. You’ll find complete information on each pick in part 2, “The
Cruise Lines & Their Ships,” and part 3, “The Ports.”
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