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THE NATURE of GOLD
An Environmental History of

the Klondike Gold Rush

KATHRYN MORSE

Foreword by William Cronon

university of washington press


Seattle and London
For M & D

The Nature of Gold is published with the assistance of a grant


from the Weyerhaeuser Environmental Books Endowment,
established by the Weyerhaeuser Company Foundation,
members of the Weyerhaeuser family,
and Janet and John Creighton.

Copyright © 2003 by the University of Washington Press


Printed in the United States of America
Designed by Pamela Canell
10 09 08 07 06 05 04 03 6 5 4 3 2 1

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted


in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopy,
recording, or any information storage or retrieval system,
without permission in writing from the publisher.

University of Washington Press


PO Box 50096, Seattle, WA 98145
www.washington.edu/uwpress

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data


can be found at the back of the book.

The paper used in this publication is acid-free and recycled from 10 percent
post-consumer and at least 50 percent pre-consumer waste. It meets the
minimum requirements of American National Standard for Information
Sciences—Permanence of Paper for Printed Library Materials,
ansi z39.48–1984. 8 A
contents

Foreword by William Cronon ix

Acknowledgments xv

Introduction: On the Chilkoot 3

1 / The Culture of Gold 16

2 / The Nature of the Journey 40

3 / The Culture of the Journey 67

4 / The Nature of Gold Mining 89

5 / The Culture of Gold Mining 115

6 / The Nature & Culture of Food 138

7 / The Nature & Culture of Seattle 166

Conclusion: Nature, Culture, and Value 191

Notes 203

Selected Bibliography 255

Index 275
vii
maps

1. Geography of the Alaska-Yukon gold rush 5

2. Selected transportation routes


to goldfields in the Yukon and Alaska,
including the “Rich Man’s Route,”
the “Poor Man’s Route,”
and the Teslin Trail 41

3. Transcontinental railroad routes


in western North America, 1898 46

4. Transportation routes to the goldfields:


the Chilkoot Trail,
White Pass Trail,
Yukon Headwater Lakes,
Upper Yukon River, and
White Pass & Yukon Railroad (built 1898–1900) 52

5. Transportation routes to the goldfields:


the Upper Yukon to Dawson City 54

6. The Klondike goldfields, Yukon Territory 90

7. Yukon River gold creeks in Alaska 91


viii
foreword: all that glitters
William Cronon

the great gold rushes of the nineteenth century are certainly


among the most dramatic episodes of American western history. Their story
typically begins with John Marshall’s finding of a nugget in John Sutter’s
millrace near Sacramento, California, on January 24, 1848. Although Sut-
ter tried desperately to prevent word of the discovery from leaking out, the
news spread rapidly to San Francisco and proved so electrifying that an aston-
ishing portion of the male population headed for the hills. In the harbor,
sailors decided almost instantly to trade their maritime work for mining,
with the result that abandoned, rotting ships would clog the city’s wharves
for years to come. When the news finally reached the East Coast a few months
later, the phenomenon repeated itself constantly: with remarkable speed,
an amazing number of people abandoned their former jobs and homes to
head west in search of fortune. Prospectors fanned out across the Sierra
Nevada, intent on striking it rich by finding a telltale streak of yellow in the
gray gravel of a river bed, or perhaps even by locating the fabled mother
lode itself. Camps and towns sprang up almost overnight, launching the
cycles of boom and bust that would so characterize the mining West for the
rest of the century and beyond.
This is the stuª of which legends are made, and western history has been
marked by romantic narratives of gold and glory ever since. What happened
in California in 1848–49 would happen at places whose names are famous
today mainly because of the “rushes” that once swept over them: Pike’s Peak,
ix
x / Foreword

the Comstock, Cripple Creek, Leadville, Tombstone, and—the final chap-


ter that closes out the nineteenth-century story with the most flamboyant
episode of all—the Klondike. There, George Washington Carmack found
gold in the Klondike River in 1896, prompting tens of thousands of would-
be prospectors from all across the United States and Canada to race into
the wilds of the Yukon, woefully unprepared for one of the most hostile envi-
ronments one could ever imagine for such a migration. We know their sto-
ries today not just because their hardships were so severe, but because their
tales were told by writers skilled enough to leave a permanent literary mark
on our collective consciousness: Rex Beach, Robert Service, and Jack Lon-
don. Although it should by rights be more a Canadian story than an Amer-
ican one—the Klondike is, after all, in Yukon Territory—the movement of
U.S. citizens into the Canadian Far North was so enormous that history
books usually commit a temporary act of narrative imperialism by annex-
ing the Yukon to the United States just long enough to tell this story.
These gold rushes are so familiar that it’s easy to take them for granted.
On the one hand, they can seem like colorful happenings from a long-ago
time when gullible people proved surprisingly susceptible to dreams that
in most cases never came true. From such a perspective, they look simul-
taneously quaint and exotic. On the other hand, the motives that led people
to dash oª in search of easy wealth can seem so transparently obvious that
they don’t require much thought or analysis. Who wouldn’t head oª to the
gold fields if there was a reasonable chance to become a millionaire and per-
manently change one’s life by doing so? What could be more natural?
The trouble with both such reactions is their either/or quality, discour-
aging us from seeing that the most valuable historical lessons come when
we juxtapose these perspectives and hold them in our minds simultaneously.
Only then can we see both how truly strange the mining gold rushes were,
and also how much they tell us about the cultural values and political-eco-
nomic institutions that made them possible—values and institutions that
are still very much a part of our own day-to-day lives. The challenge is to
experience both the weirdness and ordinariness of a gold rush at the same
time.
The special virtue of Kathryn Morse’s The Nature of Gold is that it meets
this challenge head-on, thereby yielding rich insights not just into the
Klondike Gold Rush, but into the history of much larger ideas about wealth
and risk and opportunity, to say nothing of the human place in nature.
Morse’s chief goal is to explore the diªerent contexts—historical, economic,
Foreword / xi

cultural, natural—that made a nineteenth-century gold rush possible. Her


starting point is the assumption that the desire for gold is not quite so self-
evident as our histories and myths would tempt us to believe. Sure, gold
has certain attractive features that set it apart from other elements of the
periodic table. It is the most malleable and ductile of metals, capable of being
beaten into virtually any shape or form that the human imagination might
care to impose on it. It combines with so few other elements that it can often
be found in relatively pure form. Because it does not oxidize or react with
other gases in the atmosphere, it displays none of the rust or tarnish that
bedevil other metals. And then there is that rich, seductive color. Surely the
human attraction for this magical stuª was ordained by nature and maybe
even hard-wired into our very genes?
Perhaps. But Kathy Morse wants us to remember that even a material
like gold, whose appeal to human beings can seem so natural, always exists
within a web of cultural relationships that change over time to reflect the
historical epoch in which they occur. She therefore asks us to look at the
Klondike Gold Rush through a series of diªerent lenses that quite drasti-
cally change our understanding of what those miners were doing up there
in the Far North at the very end of the nineteenth century. She reminds us,
for instance, that the 1890s were arguably the most volatile decade in Amer-
ican history for post–Civil War debates about a contracting money supply.
Republicans, Democrats, and Populists were vehement in their claims about
gold vs. silver as the proper foundation for the dollar, and the Klondike
occurred just as silver was losing out as an alternative to gold. Despite William
Jennings Bryan’s eloquence in declaring in 1896—the year of George Wash-
ington Carmack’s discovery on the Klondike—that “you shall not crucify
mankind upon a cross of gold,” it was William McKinley who won the White
House that fall. The market for gold had never been better, providing all
the more incentive for those who thought they might follow in Carmack’s
footsteps.
But monetary policy is only one of the contexts in which Morse places
this gold rush. Another is the complex network of transport and mercan-
tile relationships that carried the miners north and supplied them once they
arrived. Here we learn that what looks like the most remote and forlorn of
all mining frontiers was in fact a highly urban outpost. Its supply lines
stretched halfway across the continent from Dawson City, up and down the
Yukon River or across the Chilkoot Pass, to the entrepôt city of Seattle, which
experienced an explosion of growth as the miners arrived to prepare for their
xii / Foreword

journey. Virtually everything that made the Klondike possible—food,


clothing, shelter, tools, horses, mining supplies—passed through that city
or some other. And quite apart from these supply lines, without a metro-
politan economy to provide a market for the district’s gold production the
rush would never have occurred in the first place. The magical appeal of
gold could not by itself have prompted such an enterprise. Although rarely
given much of a role in the tales of Jack London or the poems of Robert
Service, the hard-nosed decisions of merchants and corporations were at
least as important as the romantic siren song of gold itself.
Finally, since Kathy Morse is first and foremost an environmental his-
torian, there is the all-encompassing context of the natural systems in which
the Klondike Gold Rush took place. Here she oªers a fine-grained analysis
of the many ways in which prospectors and miners came to know nature
through labor and through direct personal experience: the extreme climate
that made travel and work so hazardous; the permafrost that created unique
challenges and dangers in underground tunnels; the scarce water supplies
that made it so di‹cult to process gold-bearing gravel; the draught animals
that endured such hardships on the Chilkoot and Dyea trails; the native veg-
etation and wildlife that sustained massive disruption with the influx of
human immigrants; and so on and on. Morse demonstrates the dramatic
environmental damage created by the gold rush, but she also helps us under-
stand the very real accommodations that miners had to make if they hoped
to survive in these far northern landscapes. The result is a much more
nuanced interpretation of the environmental and human impacts that
accompanied the gold rush.
Why should anyone wish to read about the Klondike Gold Rush more
than a century after its heyday has passed? For one thing, it remains among
the most compelling tales in all of North American frontier history. Kathy
Morse is a superb storyteller with a wry sense of humor, a flair for the quirky
detail and the revealing anecdote, and a keen appreciation for the tragicomic
underside of this famous event. More importantly, her book is a powerful
reminder of the immense human capacity to alter the natural systems of
which we are part. That capacity derives in equal measure from individual
human dreams and from the collective systems that embody those dreams
in our material lives.
Tens of thousands of people made the long trek up the Chilkoot Trail.
They did so for personal reasons unique to themselves, and this gives their
individual stories a poignant, heroic, tragic edge. But they did so as well
Foreword / xiii

because of a national currency that was backed by one metal and not another,
transport networks that could move them and their gear as never before,
industrial technologies that gave them the capacity to process immense vol-
umes of frozen gravel . . . and, not least, values that taught them to see nature
as the raw material for extractive wealth, waiting to be seized by those with
the vision and strength of will to make it their own. Wealth beyond the
dreams of avarice: such, we often seem to think, is the glittering nature of
gold. The Klondike shows what a potent force this way of understanding
the wealth of nature can be not just for human beings, but for the envi-
ronments we view through this peculiar lens. Only time will tell what this
golden vision may mean for earth’s future—and our own.
acknowledgments

this book began as a doctoral dissertation at the University of Wash-


ington, directed by Richard White. Richard read and commented on every
draft with extraordinary energy and care, and those familiar with Richard’s
work in The Organic Machine, Land Use, Environment, and Social Change
and other books will recognize the ways in which his ideas shape my inter-
pretations of the history of gold mining in Alaska and the Yukon. Although
Richard may not recognize the final product, and bears no responsibility
for its flaws, his guidance made it possible. I could not have gotten a better
start as an historian, a teacher, or a writer, and I am grateful to him for that.
I am grateful as well to the University of Washington Department of His-
tory for supporting my work during graduate school, and for financial assis-
tance which included the John Calhoun Smith Memorial Scholarship, a
three-year teaching assistantship, a Rondeau Evans Travel Fellowship, the
John Calhoun Smith Dissertation Fellowship, the University Dissertation
Fellowship, several quarters of pre-doctoral lectureships, and several more
quarters of funding from the Center for the Study of the Pacific North-
west. John Findlay was instrumental in shepherding my way through grad-
uate school. I thank him for his support and for his unswerving devotion
to excellence in the careful crafting of historical arguments.
In the fall of 1995 I was fortunate to do archival research in the Yukon
Territory and Alaska. Mac Swackhammer at the Dawson City Museum
allowed me free access to rich materials in the museum archive, unlimited
xv
xvi / Acknowledgments

reign over his xerox machine, and even kindly lent me his truck for up-close
exploration of the Klondike mining sites. The staªs of the Yukon Archive
in Whitehorse and the Manuscripts and Archives Division of the Univer-
sity of Alaska, Fairbanks, library provided invaluable assistance in finding
sources, making xeroxes, and shipping materials to me in Seattle. Prof. Ter-
rence Cole and the staª of the University of Alaska, Fairbanks, Department
of History graciously helped with the logistics of life in Fairbanks.
Despite the wealth of historical materials in the Yukon and Alaska, I could
not have completed this book without the University of Washington
libraries, in particular the Manuscripts, Special Collections, and University
Archives Division. Staª members there, over the years, have patiently put
up with countless requests and questions. I thank Karyl Winn, Richard Enge-
man, Carla Rickerson, and others for their kind tolerance and assistance.
Kris Kinsey provided invaluable help with the photograph collection, which
not only enriches this book, but is an unparalleled resource for research on
Alaska and the Yukon. No small amount of thanks is due, as well, to the
men and women whose diaries and letters, carefully collected and preserved
in these archives, opened the world of the gold rush to me. Historical research
and writing are solitary pursuits, but for much of the time devoted to this
work, I was in the company of brave and funny people who spoke to me
through their writings and kept me laughing. I’m sure Nora Crane, Hunter
Fitzhugh, Bill Ballou, Mac McMichael, Lynn Smith, Asahel Curtis, John Call-
breath, Jonas Houck, and James McCrae never suspected that their letters
and journals would become fodder for a book such as this one. I could not
have asked for finer companions, and I hope that I have served their mem-
ories well.
Since I arrived in 1997, the Middlebury College Department of History
and the Program in Environmental Studies have provided not only new intel-
lectual homes, but also ongoing support for the completion of this book.
Both the Abernethy Lecture Series at Starr Library and the Environmental
Studies Program Howard E. Woodin Colloquium provided opportunities
to work through the ideas in this book with the help of enthusiastic col-
leagues and students. I am fortunate to have landed amongst so many fine
scholars and teachers for whom the writing of books remains the best and
highest of human endeavors.
At the University of Washington Press, Julidta Tarver has exhibited
patience, wisdom, and enthusiasm far beyond the editor’s call of duty. I am
Acknowledgments / xvii

grateful for all of that, and for her keen eye for words and images. Bill Cronon
has championed my journey through academic life since the moment I
walked into his undergraduate classroom in 1986. His editorial guidance in
the writing of this book is only the latest example of that support. Bill’s own
work, particularly Nature’s Metropolis and his 1992 essay “Kennecott Jour-
ney,” literally defined the paths that led to my interest in the environmen-
tal history of gold mining in Alaska and the Yukon. That I have found my
own path through the writing of The Nature of Gold is in great part due to
Bill’s thoughtful advice.
Like all books, this one got written both despite and because of the small
and not-so-small distractions of daily life, which for me included my first
few years as a professor at Middlebury College, and my first few years build-
ing a life in rural Vermont. Middlebury College made this book possible
through its generous support of faculty research and writing, and by fund-
ing some of the maps and images. My thanks go to all the many friends and
colleagues who helped with both the writing and the distractions. Around
the country, these included my brother Peter Morse and sister-in-law Cris
Morse, Clyde A. Milner II, Carol O’Connor, Helen Bronk, Lori Sherman,
Marcie Sidman, Brian Norris, Maggie Miller, Bonnie Christensen, Robert
Self, Matt Klingle, Linda Nash, Ellen Stroud, Annie Gilbert Coleman,
Cristal Weber, Mary Cunningham, Lisa Maki, and Mary Sullivan. Closer
to home in Vermont, I am grateful to my colleagues in History and Envi-
ronmental Studies, and to Lisa Landino, Rebecca Kneale Gould, Holly Allen,
Michael Newbury, Jan Albers, Paul Monod, all of the Amigos, and all of
the Doughboys, Doughwomen, and Doughkids. Thanks as well to the exem-
plary women of Ultimate Harmony. My dear and extraordinary friends Amy
Briggs, Daniel Scharstein, and Anna Briggs Scharstein welcomed me into
their family and in so many ways made it both possible and joyful for me
to complete this work. While Daniel kept me singing, Amy commented on
drafts and provided endless encouragement. Together they showed me that
if you get up every morning and put your shoes on, your time will come.
Anna shows me every day that her parents were right.
This book is for my parents, Deanne and Stephen Morse, with thanks
for their love and faith, not to mention their encouragement, humor, grace,
and astounding generosity. They supported the research and writing of this
book in countless ways. Although a book seems an inadequate token of
thanks, my parents always gave me books, even before I developed the expen-
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