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 Seattle
2005
by Karl Samson

Here’s what the critics say about Frommer’s:

“Amazingly easy to use. Very portable, very complete.”
—Booklist

“Detailed, accurate, and easy-to-read information for all price ranges.”

—Glamour Magazine

“Hotel information is close to encyclopedic.”

—Des Moines Sunday Register

“Frommer’s Guides have a way of giving you a real feel for a place.”
—Knight Ridder Newspapers
 Seattle
2005
by Karl Samson

Here’s what the critics say about Frommer’s:

“Amazingly easy to use. Very portable, very complete.”
—Booklist

“Detailed, accurate, and easy-to-read information for all price ranges.”

—Glamour Magazine

“Hotel information is close to encyclopedic.”

—Des Moines Sunday Register

“Frommer’s Guides have a way of giving you a real feel for a place.”
—Knight Ridder Newspapers
About the Author
Karl Samson makes his home in the Northwest. He also covers the rest of Washing-
ton for Frommer’s. In addition, Karl is the author of Frommer’s Arizona.
Published by:

Wiley Publishing, Inc.

111 River St.
Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774
Copyright © 2005 Wiley Publishing, Inc., Hoboken, New Jersey. All rights reserved.
No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or trans-
mitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, record-
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Wiley and the Wiley Publishing logo are trademarks or registered trademarks of
John Wiley & Sons, Inc. and/or its affiliates. Frommer’s is a trademark or registered
trademark of Arthur Frommer. Used under license. All other trademarks are the
property of their respective owners. Wiley Publishing, Inc. is not associated with
any product or vendor mentioned in this book.
ISBN 0-7645-7432-9
Editor: Leslie Shen
Production Editor: Bethany André
Cartographer: Nicholas Trotter
Photo Editor: Richard Fox
Production by Wiley Indianapolis Composition Services
Front cover photo: Reflection of neon coffee sign near Pike Place Market
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For information on our other products and services or to obtain technical support,
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5 4 3 2 1
 Contents
List of Maps vi

What’s New in Seattle 1

1 The Best of Seattle 4

1 Frommer’s Favorite Seattle 2 Best Hotel Bets . . . . . . . . . . . . .8
Experiences . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6 3 Best Dining Bets . . . . . . . . . . . .9

2 Planning Your Trip to Seattle 12

1 Visitor Information . . . . . . . . . .12 6 Planning Your Trip Online . . . . .23
2 Money . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12 Frommers.com: The Complete
3 When to Go . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13 Travel Resource . . . . . . . . . . . .25
Seattle Calendar of Events . . . .14 7 The 21st-Century Traveler . . . . .26
4 Health & Insurance . . . . . . . . . .17 Online Traveler’s Toolbox . . . . .28
5 Specialized Travel Resources . . .19 8 Getting There . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29
Won’t You Let Me Take You Flying with Film & Video . . . . . .33
on a Sea Cruise? . . . . . . . . . . .23 9 Tips on Accommodations . . . . .35

3 For International Visitors 38

1 Preparing for Your Trip . . . . . . .38 Fast Facts: For the International
2 Getting to the United States . . .44 Traveler . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .46
3 Getting Around the
United States . . . . . . . . . . . . . .45

4 Getting to Know Seattle 51

1 Orientation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .51 Driving a Bargain in Seattle . . . .61
The Neighborhoods in Brief . . . .54 Fast Facts: Seattle . . . . . . . . . .62
2 Getting Around . . . . . . . . . . . .58

5 Where to Stay 65
1 The Waterfront . . . . . . . . . . . . .66 5 Pioneer Square & the
2 Downtown & First Hill . . . . . . .67 International District . . . . . . . . .77
3 Belltown . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .74 6 Queen Anne & Seattle Center . . .77
4 Pike Place Market . . . . . . . . . . .76 7 Lake Union . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .81
iv CONTENTS

8 Capitol Hill & East Seattle . . . . .82 10 Near Sea-Tac Airport . . . . . . . . .86
Family-Friendly Hotels . . . . . . . .83 11 The Eastside . . . . . . . . . . . . . .86
9 North Seattle (The University
District) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .84

6 Where to Dine 89
1 Restaurants by Cuisine . . . . . . .90 8 Lake Union . . . . . . . . . . . . . .114
2 The Waterfront . . . . . . . . . . . . .93 9 Capitol Hill & East Seattle . . . .115
3 Downtown & First Hill . . . . . . .97 10 North Seattle (Including
Family-Friendly Restaurants . . . .99 Ballard, Fremont, Wallingford
& the University District) . . . . .116
4 Belltown . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .100
11 West Seattle . . . . . . . . . . . . .119
5 Pike Place Market . . . . . . . . . .103
12 The Eastside . . . . . . . . . . . . . .120
Meatless in Seattle . . . . . . . . .106
13 Coffee, Tea, Bakeries &
6 Pioneer Square & the
Pastry Shops . . . . . . . . . . . . .121
International District . . . . . . . .108
14 Quick Bites . . . . . . . . . . . . . .124
7 Queen Anne &
Seattle Center . . . . . . . . . . . .110

7 Exploring Seattle 126

Suggested Itineraries for 5 Architectural Gems . . . . . . . . .144
First-Time Visitors . . . . . . . . . .126 6 Parks & Public Gardens . . . . . .144
1 The Waterfront . . . . . . . . . . . .128 Fish Gotta Swim . . . . . . . . . . .145
2 Pike Place Market to 7 Especially for Kids . . . . . . . . . .147
Pioneer Square . . . . . . . . . . . .130
8 Organized Tours . . . . . . . . . . .148
Good Times in Bad Taste . . . .131
9 Outdoor Pursuits . . . . . . . . . .153
3 Seattle Center & Lake Union . .133
10 Spectator Sports . . . . . . . . . . .157
Space Needle Alternatives . . . .138
11 Day Spas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .159
4 The Neighborhoods . . . . . . . .139

8 City Strolls 160

Walking Tour 1: Pike Walking Tour 3: Fun,
Place Market . . . . . . . . . . . . .160 Funky Fremont . . . . . . . . . . . .168
Walking Tour 2: The Pioneer
Square Area . . . . . . . . . . . . . .164

9 Seattle Shopping 171

1 The Shopping Scene . . . . . . . .171 2 Shopping A to Z . . . . . . . . . . .172
 CONTENTS v

10 Seattle After Dark 184

1 The Performing Arts . . . . . . . .184 3 The Bar Scene . . . . . . . . . . . .192
2 The Club & Music Scene . . . . .189 4 The Gay & Lesbian Scene . . . .195
So Who Needs Cirque 5 Movies . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .196
du Soleil, Anyway? . . . . . . . . .192 6 Only in Seattle . . . . . . . . . . . .196

11 Side Trips from Seattle 198

1 The San Juan Islands . . . . . . .198 8 Snoqualmie Falls & the
All About Orcas . . . . . . . . . . .203 Snoqualmie Valley . . . . . . . . .247
Did You Know? . . . . . . . . . . .210 9 The Woodinville Wine
Country . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .248
2 Victoria, British Columbia . . . .218
10 Kirkland: Art Galleries
3 Port Townsend: A Restored
on Lake Washington . . . . . . . .251
Victorian Seaport . . . . . . . . . .224
11 Snohomish: Antiques Capital
4 Sequim: Lavender
of the Northwest . . . . . . . . . .251
Fields Forever . . . . . . . . . . . . .229
12 Tacoma’s Museums
5 Olympic National Park
& Gardens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .252
& Environs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .232
13 Mount St. Helens National
6 Mount Rainier . . . . . . . . . . . .241
Volcanic Monument . . . . . . . .254
7 Ferry Excursions
from Seattle . . . . . . . . . . . . . .244

Appendix A: Seattle in Depth 258

1 A Look at Seattle’s Past . . . . .258 2 Seattle Today . . . . . . . . . . . . .260
Dateline . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .258

Appendix B: Useful Toll-Free Numbers & Websites 263

Index 266
General Index . . . . . . . . . . . . .266 Restaurant Index . . . . . . . . . . .275
Accommodations Index . . . . . .274
 List of Maps

Greater Seattle Orientation 55 Seattle Attractions: Queen Anne/

Accommodations: The Waterfront, Seattle Center, Lake Union,
Downtown, First Hill, Belltown, Capitol Hill & North
Pike Place Market, Pioneer Square Seattle 134
& the International District 68 Seattle Center 137
Accommodations: Queen Anne/Seattle Walking Tour: Pike Place Market
Center, Lake Union, Capitol Hill & 161
the U District 78 Walking Tour: Pioneer Square
Dining: The Waterfront, Downtown, 165
First Hill, Belltown, Pike Place Walking Tour: Fremont 169
Market, Pioneer Square & the
International District 94 Seattle Excursions 199
Dining: Queen Anne/Seattle Center, The San Juan Islands 201
Lake Union, Capitol Hill & North Mount Rainier National Park
Seattle 112 243
The Waterfront, Downtown, First Mount St. Helens National Volcanic
Hill, Belltown, Pike Place Market, Monument 255
Pioneer Square & the International
District 127
An Invitation to the Reader
In researching this book, we discovered many wonderful places—hotels, restaurants,
shops, and more. We’re sure you’ll find others. Please tell us about them, so we can share
the information with your fellow travelers in upcoming editions. If you were disappointed
with a recommendation, we’d love to know that, too. Please write to:
Frommer’s Seattle 2005
Wiley Publishing, Inc. • 111 River St. • Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774

An Additional Note
Please be advised that travel information is subject to change at any time—and this is
especially true of prices. We therefore suggest that you write or call ahead for confirma-
tion when making your travel plans. The authors, editors, and publisher cannot be held
responsible for the experiences of readers while traveling. Your safety is important to us,
however, so we encourage you to stay alert and be aware of your surroundings. Keep a
close eye on cameras, purses, and wallets, all favorite targets of thieves and pickpockets.

Other Great Guides for Your Trip:

Frommer’s Washington State
Seattle & Portland For Dummies
Frommer’s Vancouver & Victoria
Frommer’s Star Ratings, Icons & Abbreviations
Every hotel, restaurant, and attraction listing in this guide has been ranked for quality,
value, service, amenities, and special features using a star-rating system. In country, state,
and regional guides, we also rate towns and regions to help you narrow down your choices
and budget your time accordingly. Hotels and restaurants are rated on a scale of zero (rec-
ommended) to three stars (exceptional). Attractions, shopping, nightlife, towns, and
regions are rated according to the following scale: zero stars (recommended), one star
(highly recommended), two stars (very highly recommended), and three stars (must-see).
In addition to the star-rating system, we also use seven feature icons that point you
to the great deals, in-the-know advice, and unique experiences that separate travelers from
tourists. Throughout the book, look for:

Finds Special finds—those places only insiders know about

Fun Fact Fun facts—details that make travelers more informed and their trips
more fun

Kids Best bets for kids and advice for the whole family

Moments Special moments—those experiences that memories are made of

Overrated Places or experiences not worth your time or money

Tips Insider tips—great ways to save time and money

Value Great values—where to get the best deals

The following abbreviations are used for credit cards:

AE American Express DISC Discover V Visa
DC Diners Club MC MasterCard

Frommers.com
Now that you have the guidebook to a great trip, visit our website at www.frommers.com
for travel information on more than 3,000 destinations. With features updated regularly,
we give you instant access to the most current trip-planning information available. At
Frommers.com, you’ll also find the best prices on airfares, accommodations, and car
rentals—and you can even book travel online through our travel booking partners. At
Frommers.com, you’ll also find the following:
• Online updates to our most popular guidebooks
• Vacation sweepstakes and contest giveaways
• Newsletter highlighting the hottest travel trends
• Online travel message boards with featured travel discussions
 What’s New in Seattle
S eattle has long been a very forward-
thinking city, and 2004 was no excep-
ACCOMMODATIONS The new
Hotel Ändra, 2000 Fourth Ave.
tion. The city added yet another big, (& 877/448-8600 or 206/448-8600;
bold box of a building to its list of www.hotelandra.com), is a swank and
architectural oddities, and, in a sort of stylish place cut from the same cloth
revenge of the nerds, museums old and as the W chain. Not only is the Ändra
new delved into the realms of science a gorgeous hotel, it’s also located on
fiction and supersonic transport. High- the edge of the hip Belltown neigh-
lighted below are these and other sig- borhood, making it an excellent base
nificant developments that have taken for club kids and foodies alike.
place in Seattle over the past year. For a reasonably priced hotel close
ORIENTATION You can still to downtown Seattle, check out the
expect plenty of confusion at Seattle- new Silver Cloud Hotel Broadway,
Tacoma International Airport 1100 Broadway (& 800/590-1801 or
(& 800/544-1965 or 206/431-4444; 206/325-1400; www.silvercloud.com),
www.portseattle.org/seatac), which is at the Pill Hill end of Capitol Hill.
in the midst of a major expansion. Stay here and you’ll be within a 10- to
However, the new Concourse A is 15-minute walk of most downtown
now completed and boasts a view of attractions, but be forewarned: It’s all
Mount Rainier (on clear days) and uphill on the way back. This hotel is
food concessions charging the same also a good bet if you want to check
prices you would expect to find out- out the Capitol Hill nightlife scene,
side the airport. The shuttle train to which is dominated by gay bars and
the North Satellite Station is also now clubs.
running again. There’s a wonderful new two-room
Once you’re ready to hit the side- lodging option up on Capitol Hill near
walks of Seattle, you’ll find useful a Seattle University. Barclay Court,
great new planning tool. Seattle’s 1206 E. Barclay Court (& 206/329-
Convention and Visitors Bureau runs 3914; www.barclaycourteast.com),
a Citywide Concierge Center, Pike sports colorful contemporary decor
Street between Seventh and Eighth with lots of handblown art-glass
avenues (& 206/461-5888; www.see accents by the owner of this little place.
seattle.org/ccc), on the ground floor of It’s designed primarily for low-mainte-
the Washington State Convention and nance travelers with a taste for con-
Trade Center. The concierge center temporary design aesthetics.
can help you make hotel, restaurant, DINING If you recall hearing
and tour reservations; arrange trans- something on the news this year about
portation; buy tickets to sporting a Seattle restaurant that serves steak
events; and generally get the most out that’s been dredged in espresso
of your visit to Seattle. It even has a grounds, and you just have to try this
Ticketmaster desk on the premises. unusual repast for yourself, then head
2 W H AT ’ S N E W

to Rippe’s, Pier 70, 2801 Alaskan Also new in the market is La Buona
Way (& 206/267-0236; www.rippes Tavola, 1524 Pike Place (& 206/292-
grill.com), located at the north end of 5555; www.labuonatavolausa.com),
the Seattle waterfront. Be sure to eat with its truffle products and specialty
early—the steak has the equivalent of foods.
two shots of espresso! If you’re one of those people who
If you’re looking for creative cuisine have recently developed a craving for
with a bit more character than steak doughnuts, then you absolutely have to
coated with coffee, try one of the three stop by Belltown’s retro-cool Top Pot
great New American–style restaurants Doughnuts, 2124 Fifth Ave. (& 206/
I’ve added to this book. Six-Seven 728-1966). This place is by the same
Restaurant & Lounge, in the Edge- people who gave Seattle Zeitgeist Art/
water hotel at Pier 67, 2411 Alaskan Coffee and Bauhaus Coffee & Books,
Way (& 206/269-4575), has the best two of my favorite local espresso bars.
location: Its deck is built right over the SIGHTSEEING Public libraries
waters of Elliott Bay and has a superb usually aren’t big tourist attractions,
view of the Olympic Mountains. but the new Seattle Central Library,
Union, 1400 First Ave. (& 206/ 1000 Fourth Ave. (& 206/386-4636;
838-8000; www.unionseattle.com), is www.spl.org), in downtown Seattle, is
located right across from the construc- such an architectural oddity that it
tion site of the Seattle Art Museum’s became an instant must-see attraction
new expansion (which won’t be done when it opened in the summer of
for another year or so). The setting is 2004. Designed by Dutch architect
stylishly minimalist, the preparations Rem Koolhaas and constructed of
delicious. glass and steel, the building is all grav-
A few blocks away is Earth & ity-defying angles and vast light-filled
Ocean, 1112 Fourth Ave. (& 206/ spaces. Oh, yeah, there are books, too.
264-6060; www.earthocean.net), Microsoft cofounder Paul Allen has
which is just off the lobby of the been at it again. At the Frank Gehry–
trendy W hotel and attracts a very designed colorful blob of a building
attractive crowd of style-conscious that houses the Experience Music Pro-
Seattleites. ject rock ’n’ roll museum, you can now
New Yorkers on vacation may want gaze upon Captain Kirk’s command
to know that even in Seattle it’s possi- chair from the starship Enterprise.
ble to get a great hot pastrami or Plenty of other pieces of science-fiction
Reuben sandwich. Just head to Fre- memorabilia are also on display at
mont and the new location of Roxy’s Allen’s new Science Fiction Museum
Deli, 462 N. 36th St. (& 206/632- and Hall of Fame (SFM), 325 Fifth
3963. www.hotpastrami.com), which Ave. N. (& 877/SCI-FICT or 206/
for many years has been in the Pike SCI-FICT; www.sfhomeworld.org).
Place Market neighborhood. The Museum of Flight, 9404 E.
Seattle has plenty of worthy new Marginal Way S. (& 206/764-5720;
places for snacks and light meals. At www.museumofflight.org), is now
Pike Place Market, be sure to stop by home to one of the Concorde jets that
Beecher’s Handmade Cheese, 1600 once flew between New York and
Pike Place (& 206/956-1964; www. Europe. The museum has also opened
beecherscheese.com), where you can a new wing dedicated to World War I
watch cheese being made, sample the and World War II fighter planes.
wares, and pick up a container of the
best macaroni and cheese in town. SHOPPING If you need a good
street map of Seattle or even a road
 W H AT ’ S N E W 3

map of Thailand, drop by Metsker If you want to take in Seattle’s

Maps, 1511 First Ave. (& 800/ trendy Belltown scene, swing by the
727-4430 or 206/623-8747; www. new See Sound Lounge, 115 Blan-
metsker.com), which moved from its chard St. (& 206/374-3733), an
longtime location in the Pioneer ultracool bar with great video wallpa-
Square area to an address near Pike per and a futuristic ambience.
Place Market. And if you need some If you prefer wine over martinis or
quick-drying clothes for your next microbrews, you may want to head
trip, be sure to visit the new Belltown north of downtown Seattle to the Bal-
outlet store for Ex Officio, 114 Vine lard neighborhood, where you’ll find
St. (& 206/283-4746; www.exofficio. Portalis, 5310 Ballard Ave. NW
com), a Seattle-based company that (& 206/783-2007; www.portaliswine.
specializes in clothes for world travelers. com), Seattle’s best wine bar.
If you’re in the market for some out- SIDE TRIPS In this edition of
of-the-ordinary gifts and want to do Frommer’s Seattle, you’ll find expanded
your shopping in a really cool neigh- coverage of excursions from Seattle.
borhood, head to the old historic sec- From day trips to overnighters, these
tion of Ballard. Here you’ll find both trips cover the best of what there is to
Souvenir, 5325 Ballard Ave. NW do within a short drive of Seattle. So,
(& 206/297-7116), an antiques and even if you aren’t planning on spend-
curiosities shop with a decidedly 19th- ing all of your Northwest vacation
century aesthetic, and Lucca Great right in Seattle, you’ll find plenty of
Finds, 5332 Ballard Ave. NW (& 206/ useful information in this book.
782-7337; www.luccastatuary.com), a Fares on the Washington State
gift shop with a similar style. Both Ferries (& 800/84-FERRY or 888/
places are fascinating and fun. 808-7977 in Washington, or 206/
NIGHTLIFE While you’re in town, 464-6400; www.wsdot.wa.gov/ferries)
be sure to check the calendar at the route to the San Juan Islands con-
Triple Door, 216 Union St. (& 206/ tinue to skyrocket. At press time, it
838-4333; www.thetripledoor.net), a will now cost you (and your car) as
classy new live-music venue located much as $40 to travel from the main-
across the street from the Seattle Sym- land to Friday Harbor on San Juan
phony’s Benaroya Hall. This club Island.
books a very eclectic mélange of musi-
cal styles.
1
The Best of Seattle
I magine yourself sitting in a park on the Seattle waterfront, a double-tall latte
and an almond croissant close at hand. The snowy peaks of the Olympic Moun-
tains shimmer on the far side of Puget Sound, while the ferryboats come and go
across Elliott Bay. It’s a summer day, and the sun is shining. (Hey, as long as we’re
dreaming, why not dream big?) It just doesn’t get much better than this, unless,
of course, you swap the latte for a microbrew and catch a 9:30pm summer sun-
set. No wonder people love this town so much.
Okay, so the waterfront is as touristy as San Francisco’s Fisherman’s Wharf,
but what a view! Seattle is a city of views, and the must-see vista is the panorama
from the top of the Space Needle. With the 21st century in full swing, this
image of the future may look decidedly 20th-century retro, but still, it’s hard to
resist an expensive elevator ride in any city. And, if it’s up and running again by
the time you read this, you can even take a monorail straight out of The Jetsons
to get there (and pass right through the Frank Gehry–designed Experience
Music Project en route).
EMP, as the Experience Music Project has come to be known, is yet another of
Seattle’s handful of architectural oddities. Its swooping, multicolored, metal-
skinned bulk rises at the foot of the Space Needle, proof that real 21st-century
architecture looks nothing like the vision of the future people dreamed of when
the Space Needle was built for the 1962 World’s Fair. EMP was the brainchild of
Microsoft cofounder Paul Allen, who built this rock ’n’ roll cathedral to house his
vast collection of Northwest rock memorabilia. After revenues from the rock
museum failed to meet expectations, Allen even added a Science Fiction Museum
and Hall of Fame (is this town a computer nerd’s dream come true, or what?).
Paul Allen’s money has also been hard at work changing the architectural face
of the south end of downtown Seattle, where, in March 2000 the Kingdome sta-
dium came crashing down, imploded to make way for the new, state-of-the-art
Seahawks Stadium—home to Allen’s Seattle Seahawks NFL football team.
Together with the Seattle Mariners’ Safeco Field, Seahawks Stadium has created
a massive sports-arena district at the south end of downtown. Next up is the
under-utilized yet very accessible area between downtown Seattle and Lake
Union. Allen has plans for that neighborhood, too.
Allen projects aside, Seattle has become one of the nation’s most talked-about
and popular cities, and life here has undergone dramatic changes in recent years.
An influx of urban residents has brought a new vibrancy to the downtown area,
and as the city has grown wealthier and more sophisticated, it has built itself not
just a new football stadium and a retractable-roof baseball stadium, but also a
new opera house, a new symphony hall, glittering new hotels, and countless
upscale restaurants and shops. Still in the works are a controversial light-rail sys-
tem and an extension of Seattle’s monorail—although both projects have repeat-
edly stalled and may end up being sidetracked completely.
 T H E B E S T O F S E AT T L E 5

It’s clear that Seattle has not grown complacent. Sure, it’s become a congested
city, with traffic problems rivaling those of L.A. And yes, the weather really is
lousy for most of the year. But Seattleites manage to overcome these minor
inconveniences, in large part by spilling out into the streets and parks whenever
the sun shines. To visit Seattle in the summer is to witness an exodus; follow the
lead of the locals and head for the great outdoors. Should you brave a visit in the
rainy season, don’t despair: There are compensations for such misfortune,
including a roof on Pike Place Market and an espresso bar on every block.

WATER, WATER truly defines the city’s character. To

EVERYWHERE . . . & FORESTS the west lies Elliott Bay, an arm of
& MOUNTAINS, TOO Puget Sound; to the east is Lake Wash-
Though the times may be a-changing ington; and right in the middle of the
for Seattle, one thing has stayed the city is Lake Union. With so much
same: the beautiful and wild landscape water all around, Seattle has become a
that surrounds the city. The sparkling city of boaters, who take to the water
waters of Elliott Bay, Lake Union, and in everything from regally appointed
Lake Washington wrap around this yachts to slender sea kayaks. Conse-
city of shimmering skyscrapers, and quently, the opening day of boating
forests of evergreens crowd the city season has become one of Seattle’s
limits. Everywhere you look, another most popular annual festivals.
breathtaking vista unfolds. With end- A CITY DRIVEN BY CAFFEINE
less boating opportunities, and beaches Despite Seattle’s affinity for its nearby
and mountains within a few hours’ natural environment, this city is best
drive, Seattle is ideally situated for the known as the coffee capital of Amer-
outdoor pursuits that are so important ica. To understand Seattle’s coffee
to the fabric of life in the Northwest. addiction, it is necessary to study the
Few other cities in the United States city’s geography and climate. Seattle
are as immersed in the outdoor aes- lies at almost 50 degrees north lati-
thetic as Seattle. The Cascade Range tude, which means that winter days
lies less than 50 miles to the east of are short. The sun comes up around
downtown Seattle, and across Puget 7:30am, goes down as early as
Sound stand the Olympic Mountains. 4:30pm, and is frequently hidden
In the spring, summer, and fall, the behind leaden skies. A strong stimu-
forests and mountains attract hikers, lant is almost a necessity to get people
mountain bikers, anglers, and campers, out of bed through the gray days of
while in winter, the ski areas of Sno- winter. Seattleites love to argue over
qualmie Pass and Stephens Pass draw which espresso bar or cafe in town
snowboarders and skiers. serves the best coffee (and the answer
Though impressive mountains line isn’t always Starbucks, despite the
the city’s eastern and western horizons, famous coffee company’s global
a glance to the southeast on a sunny expansion from its humble beginnings
day will reveal Seattle’s most treasured in Seattle’s Pike Place Market).
sight—Mount Rainier, a 14,410-foot- Seattle’s popularity and rapid
tall dormant volcano that looms large, growth, however, have not been
so unexpected that it demands your entirely smooth. The streets and high-
attention. When “the Mountain is ways have been unable to handle the
out,” as they say here in Seattle, Seat- increased traffic load, and commuting
tleites head for the hills. has become almost as nightmarish as it
However, as important as “the is in California, from whence so many
Mountain” is to Seattle, it is water that of the city’s recent transplants fled
6 C H A P T E R 1 . T H E B E S T O F S E AT T L E

(ironically, partly due to the traffic the Emerald City it once was, but it
congestion). With roads growing ever remains a metropolis in a singularly
more crowded and the cost of living spectacular setting and a superb sum-
continuing to rise, Seattle may not be mertime vacation destination.

1 Frommer’s Favorite Seattle Experiences

• Taking in the Sunset from the • Wandering Around Fremont.
Waterfront. On a clear summer This quirky neighborhood consid-
day, the setting sun silhouettes the ers itself the center of the universe,
Olympic Mountains on the far but it’s really a little bit left of cen-
side of Puget Sound and makes the ter. Retro clothing and vintage-
view from the Seattle waterfront furniture stores, cafes, a couple of
truly memorable. Try the rooftop pubs, a great flea market, and the
park at the Bell Street Pier, Myrtle city’s best public art make this the
Edwards Park at the north end of most eccentric neighborhood in
the waterfront, or the lounge at the Seattle.
Edgewater Hotel. • Seeing a Show at the 5th Avenue
• Riding a Ferry Across Puget Theatre. This historic theater was
Sound. Sure, you could spend designed to resemble the imperial
$20 or $30 for a narrated tour of throne room in Beijing’s Forbid-
the Seattle waterfront, but for a den City. Can you say “ornate”?
fraction of that, you can take a Nothing else in Seattle compares,
ferry to Bremerton or Bainbridge including the show onstage.
Island and see not just Elliott Bay • Attending the Spring Flower and
but plenty more of Puget Sound. Garden Show. Each spring, gar-
Keep an eye out for porpoises and dening madness descends on the
bald eagles. Washington State Convention and
• Eating Your Way through Pike Trade Center in the form of one
Place Market. Breakfast at Le of the largest flower-and-garden
Panier, espresso at what was once shows in the country. This show
the only Starbucks in the world, has more than 5 acres of garden
lunch at Café Campagne, a mar- displays and hundreds of vendors.
tini at The Pink Door, dinner at • Catching Concerts at Bumber-
Chez Shea, Celtic music at Kells, shoot. It isn’t often that you get to
and a nightcap at Il Bistro—that’s agonize over which great music
how you could spend a day at Pike performance to attend next, but
Place. Between stops on this rigor- that’s just what you have to do at
ous itinerary, you can people- the annual Labor Day music-and-
watch, listen to street musicians, arts extravaganza known as Bum-
and shop for everything from bershoot. Whether your tastes run
fresh salmon to tropical fruits to to Grieg or grunge, salsa or swing,
magic tricks to art glass. you’ll have plenty of choices.
• Relaxing Over a Latte. If the rain • Riding the Monorail. Though the
and gray skies start to get to you, ride is short, covering a distance
there is no better pick-me-up that could easily be walked in half
(short of a ticket to the tropics) an hour, the monorail provides a
than a frothy latte in a cozy cafe. different perspective on the city.
Grab a magazine and just hang The retro-futurist transport, built
out until the rain stops (maybe for the Seattle World’s Fair in
sometime in July). 1962, ends at the foot of the Space
 F R O M M E R ’ S FAV O R I T E S E AT T L E E X P E R I E N C E S 7

Needle and even passes right • Walking, Jogging, Biking, or

through the Experience Music Skating a Seattle Path. There are
Project. Although a fire shut down several paved trails around the city
the monorail for much of 2004, it that are ideal for pursuing any of
should be up and running again these sports. The trail around
by the start of 2005. Green Lake is the all-time favorite,
• Spending an Afternoon at Vol- but the Burke-Gilman/Sammam-
unteer Park. Whether the day is ish River Trail along Lake Wash-
sunny or gray, this park on Capi- ington, the trail along Alki Beach,
tol Hill is a great spot to spend an and the trail through Myrtle
afternoon. You can relax in the Edwards and Elliott Bay parks at
grass, study Chinese snuff bottles the north end of the Seattle water-
in the Seattle Asian Art Museum, front are equally good choices.
marvel at the orchids in the con- • Sea Kayaking on Lake Union.
servatory, or simply enjoy the Lake Union is a very urban body
great view of the city from the top of water, but it has a great view of
of the park’s water tower. the Seattle skyline, and you can
• Riding the Water Taxi to Alki paddle right up to several water-
Beach. The water taxi that oper- front restaurants. For more natu-
ates between the Seattle water- ral surroundings, kayak over to
front and Alki Beach, on the far the marshes at the north end of
side of Elliott Bay, is practically the Washington Park Arboretum.
the cheapest boat ride you can • Exploring a Waterfront Park.
take in Seattle. Once you get to Seattle abounds in waterfront
Alki Beach, you can dine with a parks where you can gaze out at
killer view of the Seattle skyline distant shores, wiggle your toes in
and then go for a walk or bike ride the sand, or walk through a rem-
on the beachfront path. nant patch of old-growth forest.
• Enjoying a Day at the Wood- Some of my favorites include Dis-
land Park Zoo. The cages are covery Park, Seward Park, Lincoln
almost completely gone from this Park, and Golden Gardens Park.
big zoo, replaced by spacious ani- • Museum Hopping on First
mal habitats that give the residents Thursday. On the first Thursday
the feeling of being back at home of each month, almost all of Seat-
in the wild. Zebras gallop, brown tle’s museums are open late and
bears romp, river otters cavort, offer free admission for all or part
elephants stomp, and orangutans of the day. Get an early start and
swing. The levels of activity here be sure to check the opening and
make it clear that the animals are closing times of the museums.
happy with their surroundings. Talk about a great way to save
• Strolling through the Arbore- bucks on your vacation!
tum in Spring. Winters in Seattle • Taking a Free Ride on Lake
may not be long, but they do lack Union. For a couple of hours each
color. So, when spring hits, the Sunday afternoon, the Center for
sudden bursts of brightness it Wooden Boats, which is located
brings are reverently appreciated. on Lake Union, offers free boat
There’s no better place in the city rides in classic wooden sailboats.
to enjoy the spring floral displays You can watch noisy floatplanes
than the Washington Park landing and taking off as you sail
Arboretum. silently across the waves.
8 C H A P T E R 1 . T H E B E S T O F S E AT T L E

2 Best Hotel Bets

• Best Historic Hotel: Built in for club-crawling night owls. See
1924, the Fairmont Olympic p. 75.
Hotel, 411 University St. (& 800/ • Best for Families: Situated just
223-8772 or 206/621-1700; www. across the street from Lake Union,
fairmont.com/seattle), is styled the Silver Cloud Inns Seattle–
after an Italian Renaissance palace Lake Union, 1150 Fairview Ave.
and is by far the most impressive N. (& 800/330-5812 or 206/
of Seattle’s handful of historic 447-9500; www.silvercloud.com),
hotels. The grand lobby is unri- is far enough from downtown to
valed. See p. 70. be affordable—and yet is not far
• Best for Business Travelers: If from Seattle Center and has a
your company has sent you to great location overlooking the
Seattle to close a big deal, insist on lake. There are indoor and out-
the best. Stay at the Grand Hyatt door pools and several restaurants
Seattle, 721 Pine St. (& 800/ right across the street. See p. 81.
233-1234 or 206/774-1234; • Best Moderately Priced Hotel:
www.grandseattle.hyatt.com), and The Best Western University
you can avail yourself of all kinds Tower Hotel, 4507 Brooklyn Ave.
of high-tech amenities. If you’re NE (& 800/899-0251 or 206/
here on Microsoft business, head 634-2000; www.universitytower
for the Woodmark Hotel on hotel.com), is surprisingly reason-
Lake Washington, 1200 Carillon ably priced for what you get—it’s
Point, Kirkland (& 800/822-3700 one of the most stylish contempo-
or 425/822-3700; www.thewood rary accommodations in Seattle.
mark.com). Rooms are not only set Ask for a room on an upper floor
up for taking care of business, but and you’ll also get good views. See
most also have water views. See p. 84.
p. 71 and 87. • Best Budget Hotel: It may be a
• Best for a Romantic Getaway: bit out of the way and a little old,
Though Seattle has quite a few but the Mercer Island Trav-
hotels that do well for a romantic elodge, 7645 Sunset Hwy., Mer-
weekend, the Inn at the Market, cer Island (& 800/578-7878 or
86 Pine St. (& 800/446-4484 206/232-8000; www.mercerisland
or 206/443-3600; www.innatthe hotel.com), has a lot to recom-
market.com), with its Elliott Bay mend it. You drive across a float-
views, European atmosphere, and ing bridge to get here, it’s right on
proximity to many excellent (and a walking/biking path, and there’s
romantic) restaurants, is sure to a very pleasant neighborhood a
set the stage for lasting memories. few blocks away. See p. 88.
See p. 76. • Best B&B: Set in the Capitol Hill
• Best for Hipsters: This is a city neighborhood, the Gaslight Inn,
that likes to keep up with the 1727 15th Ave. (& 206/325-
trends, and the new Hotel Ändra, 3654; www.gaslight-inn.com), is a
2000 Fourth Ave. (& 877/448- lovingly restored and maintained
8600 or 206/448-8600; www. Craftsman bungalow filled with
hotelandra.com), has given Seattle original Stickley furniture. Lots of
a boldly contemporary lodging. public spaces, very tasteful decor,
Best of all, it’s on the edge of the and a swimming pool in the back-
trendy Belltown neighborhood, yard all add up to unexpected lux-
which makes this an ideal base ury for a Seattle B&B. See p. 82.
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