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India by Design The Pursuit of Luxury and Fashion 1st Edition Alix de Poix All Chapters Available

The document presents 'India by Design: The Pursuit of Luxury and Fashion' by Alix De Poix, an academic exploration of the luxury and fashion market in India, set for release in 2025. It discusses the complexities of Indian consumer behavior, cultural influences, and market potential for luxury brands. The book aims to provide insights for both international brands and local designers navigating the evolving landscape of India's fashion industry.

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100% found this document useful (5 votes)
26 views146 pages

India by Design The Pursuit of Luxury and Fashion 1st Edition Alix de Poix All Chapters Available

The document presents 'India by Design: The Pursuit of Luxury and Fashion' by Alix De Poix, an academic exploration of the luxury and fashion market in India, set for release in 2025. It discusses the complexities of Indian consumer behavior, cultural influences, and market potential for luxury brands. The book aims to provide insights for both international brands and local designers navigating the evolving landscape of India's fashion industry.

Uploaded by

ainoayuki6681
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© © All Rights Reserved
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The Pursuit of Luxury & Fashion
The Pursuit of Luxury & Fashion

MICHAEL BOROIAN
AND
ALIX DE POIX

John Wiley & Sons (Asia) Pte. Ltd.


Copyright © 2010 John Wiley & Sons (Asia) Pte. Ltd.
Published in 2010 by John Wiley & Sons (Asia) Pte. Ltd.
2 Clementi Loop, #02-01, Singapore 129809

All rights reserved.

No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any
form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, scanning or otherwise,
except as expressly permitted by law, without either the prior written permission of the Publisher,
or authorization through payment of the appropriate photocopy fee to the Copyright Clear-
ance Center. Requests for permission should be addressed to the Publisher, John Wiley & Sons
(Asia) Pte. Ltd., 2 Clementi Loop, #02-01, Singapore 129809, tel: 65-64632400, fax: 65-64646912,
e-mail: [email protected].

This publication is designed to provide accurate and authoritative information in regard to the
subject matter covered. It is sold with the understanding that the Publisher is not engaged in
rendering professional services. If professional advice or other expert assistance is required, the
services of a competent professional person should be sought.

Other Wiley Editorial Offices

John Wiley & Sons, Inc., 111 River Street, Hoboken, NJ 07030, USA
John Wiley & Sons, Ltd., The Atrium, Southern Gate, Chichester, West Sussex P019 8SQ, UK
John Wiley & Sons (Canada), Ltd., 5353 Dundas Street West, Suite 400, Toronto, Ontario
M9B 6H8, Canada
JohnWiley & Sons Australia Ltd., 42 McDougall Street, Milton, Queensland 4064, Australia
Wiley-VCH, Boschstrasse 12, D-69469 Weinheim, Germany

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data

ISBN: 978-0470-82396-5

Typeset in 11.5/15pt Legacy Serif ITC Book by Macmillan Publishing Solutions, Chennai, India.
Printed in Singapore by Saik Wah Press Pte. Ltd.
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
Table of Contents

Foreword vii
Preface xi
Acknowledgments xv
List of Tables and Figures xvii
List of Photographs xviii

Part I: Overview 1
Chapter 1: Defining Luxury and Fashion 3
Chapter 2: Framework and Context of Luxury in India 27
Chapter 3: Demographics, Economy, Spending Habits,
and Purchasing Power 49
Chapter 4: Cultural Issues and Specificities of the Indian Market 79

Part II: The Indian Consumer 99


Chapter 5: Consumer Differences Between Cities 101
Chapter 6: Indian Views on Luxury 117

Part III: Market Potential 133


Chapter 7: Mapping Fashion and Luxury Brands in India 135
Chapter 8: Retail and Distribution Issues 163
Chapter 9: Human Resources Issues and Practices 183
Chapter 10: Fashion Education in India 203

Part IV: The Indian Designer 215


Chapter 11: Designer Market Structures 217
Chapter 12: Designers 239

Part V: Conclusion 307


Chapter 13: Where Are Indian Luxury and Fashion Going? 309
Chapter 14: Case Studies 319
Appendix I: How-to Guide for Brands Entering the Market 347
Glossary 355
Bibliography 359
Index 363

v
Foreword

N o one has understood “India” in one lifetime. Even an immod-


est Indian would not make such a preposterous claim. Yet it is
worth making the effort to understand, as this book does, for the
rewards are plenty.

TWO INDIAS

In a land where the cities may well have succumbed to luxuries and
“limited-edition” novelties, someone in a village will surprise you
with the simple wisdom that possession of rare, expensive things
is not the path to happiness—that all this is only maya, the illu-
sion of possession. For nothing really belongs to us. Gita, the ancient
Indian epic, concludes: “What belongs to you today belonged to
someone else yesterday, and tomorrow it will belong to yet someone
else. Change is the only steadfast rule of life.” Yet some of the rarest
material possessions, such as the Peacock Throne and the Koh-i-
noor, Golconda, and Jubilee diamonds were once crafted for, and
possessed by, Indians.
It was the courage of Indian creativity and patronage that
attempted communion with the Buddha at Ajanta, carving amaz-
ing frescoed caves across a mile and a half; that venerated the Hindu
deity Shiva by scooping out 200,000 tons of rocks at the Kailash
temple at Ellora; that raised the 700-feet-high eleventh-century
Brihadeshwara temple in Tanjore. To honor a Jain tirthankara with
1,444 different marble pillars enclosing 29,000 feet of double-storied
space at Ranakpur, Rajasthan, or even conceive of laying the garden
of paradise on earth around the Taj Mahal, requires the same royal
license for religious and spiritual luxuries.

vii
viii Foreword

If both yesterday and tomorrow can be called by the same word


“ kal ” in a cyclic, cosmic understanding of time, then it is easy
to understand how for most of India’s rural communities, both
their identity and security lie in their “continuous editions” of
fashion: except for weddings or festivals, they always dress the
same. A watch, a bag, or even a cell phone can only be an item of
necessity or utility, not a “limited edition” from a brand, which
demands an escalation in spending. Also, much of what this India
uses, even, say, in perfumes is usually the generic rose, jasmine,
and vertiver. The henna on the hands is an unbranded henna
from the grocer.

THE SECOND INDIA

Fortunately for brands seeking new markets here, a parallel India


also exists: complex, but ready to change and consume all they have
to offer.
So when someone wants to delve into this fascinating land of
paradoxes and parallel truths, what sort of lenses does it demand? A
double lens for sure, as this Franco-American collaboration demon-
strates. They have certainly put together an incisive and exhaustive
book on luxury and fashion in India, not just for outsiders, but for
Indians as well. Michael Boroian is American, and Alix de Poix is
French. Though both have European roots and many similarities in
their respective career paths, they adopt different approaches: one
through business expertise in people, situations, and organizations;
the other using a cognitive approach. Some chapters take on an
aerial view, while others focus on detailed analyses.
Writing about such a comprehensive subject is a daunting task,
and many books have recently been written about India (some are
even quoted in this book). The issues raised in India by Design—to
Foreword ix

date the only book devoted solely to this subject—may inspire others
and serve as a foundation for further exploration. Having been
interviewed ourselves in the process of the authors’ research for this
book, we have had the pleasure of sharing their challenges through-
out this ambitious undertaking. The result is one of contrasts: inter-
esting and provocative, refreshing and enriching.
The authors have addressed the most relevant issues and aspects that
affect luxury and fashion in the emerging and challenging environment that
is India today. The focus is on a specific sector of the economy and how that
market is evolving. Where will the growth of the big brands come from given
that Europe, America and Asia are already established destinations for these
consumers? Where will the industry wish to invest for future expansion,
sourcing, and manufacturing? And what of the clientele, ready to spend the
price required to fulfill their dreams (real or not)?
The cultural diversity of India is equivalent to—if not greater
than—its European counterparts. It has taken the Europeans nearly
50 years to build an economic force to compete with the other two
giants, Asia and America. Europeans are proud that the roots of
fashion and luxury are found among their many brands, and it is
with a sense of respect for this heritage that the authors address
their subject. They bring to the subject an insider’s perspective on
the workings of the world of luxury and fashion and illustrate,
interviews in Europe, America, Asia, and India, their vision of the
situations and their understanding of the environment. Both are
recognized as gurus in their respective fields: they have embarked on
a journey both to learn and to share their findings with others who
have a comparable interest in India.
They have covered their topic in a style that is both narrative and
informative, allowing the reader to gain a conceptual framework
of the issues confronting the Indian market. For companies enter-
ing India today, or indeed for those already present, the challenges
are formidable. The authors present an integrated vision that we
x Foreword

believe will give the purveyors of luxury and fashion a better under-
standing of India and the complex and ever-evolving market they
are seeking to explore.
Aman Nath & Francis Wacziarg
Co-chairmen, Neemrana Hotels
Preface

The genesis of this book on luxury and fashion dates back to 1999;
the issues were the same, but the focus was on a different country:
China. As partner and European practice leader for the fashion, retail,
and luxury goods sector at TMP Worldwide Executive Search, I had
been requested to complete several senior-level recruitments in China.
With limited knowledge of the Chinese market at the time, I needed
efficient and speedy instruction regarding the nature of, and chal-
lenges for, the luxury business there, and found very little informa-
tion. I therefore proposed to my management to conduct an in-depth
study, which could be used as the basis for a book on the subject
matter. Whereas management approval was granted, presenting the
project to publishers received a consistently negative response: “Is
there even a market for luxury in China? Is it not premature to write
about such a subject, and who would really be interested?” Thus
discouraged by three different editors, I decided to shelve the study.
Fast forward to 2006. As founder of Sterling International, a lead-
ing niche executive-search firm specializing exclusively in the fashion
and luxury goods sector, I had by now conducted many China-based
search assignments, and had always harbored some regret over not hav-
ing pursued the book-writing project. Yet an old familiar opportunity
was presenting itself, because the clients who had previously requested
recruitment services for the Chinese market were now contacting me
with similar needs for India. “India is the next China” is a comment I
would hear again and again, and to a lesser extent there are some paral-
lels with regard to the luxury goods industry. With limited knowledge
of the market, I set out to increase my exposure to India to learn the
many facets of its fashion and luxury goods paradigm.
Given the complexity of the many contradictions that serve as
a backdrop to luxury and fashion in India, the subject matter was

xi
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xii Preface

daunting. Indeed, it prompts the question: How pertinent is the


subject in a country whose 60 years of independence has its lead-
ers addressing the more relevant past and present challenges of
poverty, caste, illiteracy, and sectarian violence in an ever-growing
population of one billion plus? Contradictions abound in a country
where approximately half of the people are illiterate, yet it houses
the world’s second-largest pool of trained scientists and engineers.
Against a backdrop of an evolving democracy and growing econ-
omy, per capita income is increasing and an ever-growing youth
majority is looking for ways to channel its aspiration.
Enter the luxury brands, identifiable to the discerning eye, qual-
ity driven and tempting the consumer to be a part of the foray of the
happy not-so-few. My primary objective for choosing this subject
matter is to provide the reader with a reference on the evolution that
India is undergoing in branded fashion and luxury goods and, in
particular, the impact of the major European houses, whose success
in India will come at a price: an opportunity cost for the local Indian
businesses and design talents who have not yet learned the essentials
of fashion and luxury branding, and thus risk losing sizeable market
share in the increasingly competitive arena.
Michael Boroian

Why India? This dates back to 1961. To Ootacamund (Ooty), in the


south of India, where my father lived while setting up an impor-
tant manufacturing operation for the film industry. In addition, my
husband, Jacques-Etienne de T’Serclaes, has been traveling to India
doing business regularly since the late 1990s, so I have never disen-
gaged from the country. I had been asked to speak on luxury issues
at global forums, such as the Regional World Economic Forum in
Delhi, and when Michael asked me if I would be interested in writ-
ing something on the subject of luxury, I saw a real opportunity to
share some of the thoughts I had on this continent.
Preface xiii

As a former senior partner with the renowned executive search


firm Heidrick & Struggles, I ran the worldwide luxury practice for
several years. Since then, I have been contacted regularly by friends,
former candidates, and clients for information and advice on the
global luxury market. Since my DNA and specialty are the family
business and the luxury sector, I see an interesting parallel between
the brands in India today and the emerging brands in continental
Europe in the late 1950s. The arrival of a new breed of managers and
the emerging role of women are also strong signs of obvious poten-
tial growth in the sector.
Will India remain in the spotlight? Is it the next destination
for the old developed world, for talents, market opportunities, and
brand development? The answer is “yes.” Is it a new El Dorado?
Potentially, yes; there is a lot of money in India. Is it for now? Prob-
ably not: too many things are missing for the moment, but it will
come quicker than anyone thinks or believes. All the work and
research I am now doing on leadership issues in my new role of exec-
utive search coach and consultant in Europe as well as in Asia, India,
and the Emirates confirm the potential surge of this continent. All
my instincts say “yes”, there is room for India to be on the podium
one day.
The Indians have a unique sense of time and the timeless, which
in and of itself is a representation of luxury; they have the colors, the
music, the fabric, the crafts, the hands, the link between temporal-
ity and spirituality, and the women... It is a continent of “bespoke”
culture, with a coexistence of extreme wealth and extreme poverty,
of individuality and collectivity. Will they make it? Do they want it?
Can our Western eyes understand the Oriental vision? Do they need
us or do we need them? These are some of the questions inspiring
my co-writing of this book.
Alix de Poix
xiv Preface

During the writing of this book, we were faced with several


challenges:
• the musical chairs of the luxury brands ever-changing partner-
ships with India distribution groups, data for which are valid
as of October 2008
• the question of how to present economic data by virtue of cur-
rency choice. Given that our readers are Indian, American, and
European, we have selected one of the three currencies accord-
ing to the original data provided for a specific currency. N.B.
the exchange rates are as of December 31, 2007, as follows:
US$1 ⫽ €0.67942 /€1 ⫽ US$1.47285
1 € ⫽ 58.08184 Indian rupees/1 Indian rupee ⫽ €0.01722
1 Indian rupee ⫽ US$0.02536 /US$1 ⫽ 39.42750 Indian rupees.
(source: The Currency Site, www.oanda.com)
Acknowledgments

During the course of writing our book, we were privileged to meet


with many individuals whose input was facilitative, and whose par-
ticipation was greatly appreciated. Many thanks to the following:
• for their contribution and/or insight:
all the designers, Pialy Aditya, Amar Agrawal, Kajal Aijaz, Harry
and Claudia Ajwani, Sujata Assomull, Harmeet Bajaj, Sanjiv
Batra, Rakesh Biyani, Anna Bredemeyer, Yves Carcelle, Fiona
Caulfield, Radha Chadha, Kalyani Chawla, Vishal Chawla, Anil
and Sabina Chopra, Anil and Mehul Chowksi, Aishwin Deo,
Sobha Dé, Luca Ferro, Fergus Fleming, Irène Frain, Umesh
Ganjam, Parmeshwar Godrej, Oliver Goessler, Didier Grumbach,
Abhay Gupta, Pradeep Hirani, Neelesh Hunderkari, Farhat
Jamal, Tarini Jindal, Tarun Johsi, Anand Kabra, Dilip Kapur,
Thomas Kastgen, Rattan Keswani, Ajay Khaitan, Dietmar
Knoess, Kamal Kant Koner, Ravi Krishnan, Alex Kuruvilla,
Florence Lesché, Jean-Marc Loubier, Judith Leiber, André Maeder,
Anuradha Mahindra, Fern Mallis, Pradeep Mansukhani, Nikhil
Mehra, Vivek Mehra, Bertrand Michaud, Maneesh Mishra,
Maximiliano Modesti, Françoise Montenay, Albert Morris,
Gilles Moutonet, Abhijit Mukerji, Vijay Murjani, Sumeet Nair,
Vinod Nair, Saloni Nangia, Kamal Nath, Amit Oberoi, Marie-Lou
Philips, Marie-France Pochna, Véronique Poles, Gaurav
Pokhriyal, Anil Prabhakar, Rahul Prasad, Avneesh Raghuvanshi,
Deyani Raman, Sergio Ramirez, Sanjeev Rao, Chandralekha
Roy, Megha Roy, Charu Sachdev, Priya Sachdev, Eric Saurage,
Philippe Schaus, Anjana Sharma, Harsimran Singh, Maharaja
Jai Singh, Malvinder Singh, Tikka Singh, Pranay Sinha, Rishab
Soni, Srinath Sridharan, Soumistra Srivastava, Geff Staines,

xv
xvi Acknowledgments

Simone Tata, Bandana Tewari, Sujata Tyagi, Yanchee Vadhera,


Rathi Vinay Jha, Manmeet Vohra, Ness Wadia, Max-Jean Zins
• for their particular contribution, feedback and endorsement:
Xavier Bertrand, Michel Chevalier, Binita Cooper, Ritu Kumar,
Uché Okonkwo, Ashok Som, Aman Nath, Francis Wacziarg
• for their guidance: the team at John Wiley & Sons
• for their help with the artistic direction: Sathya and Shiv Saran
• and a very special thank you to Ruchita Sharma and Charlotte
Cookson whose endurance and invaluable contribution helped
make this book become a reality
List of Tables and Figures

Chapter 1
Figure 1.1Product diversification of luxury brands 12
Figure 1.2The luxury market by product category 15
Figure 1.3The new luxury universe pyramid 16
Figure 1.4Global luxury consumers by region 2005 16
Table 1.1 The major luxury and fashion group companies
(excluding fragrance and cosmetics, wines and spirits) 22
Table 1.2 BrandZ top ranking—Luxury category 23

Chapter 3
Figure 3.1 Religious beliefs 51

Chapter 4
Figure 4.1 Percentage of single women who say it is necessary
to have a big house and a big car to be happy 92
Figure 4.2 Preferred careers for young women today 94

Chapter 5
Figure 5.1 Populations of major cities 105
Figure 5.2 Revenue per inhabitant 106
Figure 5.3 Crime rate for various cities 106
Figure 5.4 Population density of various cities 107

Chapter 7
Table 7.1 Apparel and accessories 142
Table 7.2 Jewelry and watches 145
Table 7.3 Home décor 148
Table 7.4 Tableware 149
Table 7.5 Leisure 149

Chapter 9
Figure 9.1 Indicative salaries 198

Chapter 12
Table 12.1 Designer category list 242

xvii
List of Photographs

Chapter 2
Pg 34—Gandhi in Western clothing
Pg 35—Gandhi in traditional clothing
Pg 38—Madame Ghalleb—the early years
Pg 42—Ritu Kumar
Pg 45—Shiv Nivas
Pg 45—Neemrana Fort Palace

Chapter 4
Pg 87—Wedding splendor
Pg 87—Wedding ceremony

Chapter 6
Pg 126—Ganjam headpiece
Pg 129—Ganjam drop necklace advert
Pg 131—Hidesign leather bag advert

Chapter 10
Pg 206—National Institute of Design

Chapter 11
Pg 217—James Ferreira
Pg 221—Design by Sunil Sethi
Pg 221—Lecoanet and Hemant
Pg 223—Hemant bag
Pg 230—Rohit Khosla
Pg 230—Rohit Khosla design
Pg 232—Ensemble: view of store interior
Pg 236—Aza: view of store interior
Pg 237—Bombay Electric: store exterior
Pg 238—Aza at the Crescent

Chapter 12
Pg 245—Tarun Tahiliani
Pg 245—Tarun Tahiliani creation

xviii
List of Photographs xix

Pg 247—Rohit Bal
Pg 247—Rohit Bal creation
Pg 249—J.J. Valaya
Pg 249—J.J. Valaya creation
Pg 251—Ritu Kumar
Pg 251—Ritu Kumar creation—in modern clothing
Pg 251—Ritu Kumar creation—in traditional clothing
Pg 253—Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla
Pg 253—Abu Jani creation
Pg 255—Rajesh Pratap Singh
Pg 255—Rajesh Pratap Singh creation
Pg 257—Ashish N. Soni
Pg 257—Ashish N. Soni creation
Pg 259—Abraham and Thakore
Pg 259—Abraham and Thakore creation
Pg 261—Narendra Kumar
Pg 261—Narendra Kumar creation
Pg 262—Shahab Durazi
Pg 262—Shahab Durazi creation
Pg 264—Wendell Rodricks
Pg 264—Wendell Rodricks creation
Pg 266—Sabyasachi Mukherjee
Pg 266—Sabyasachi Mukherjee creation
Pg 267—Anamika Khanna
Pg 267—Anamika Khanna creation
Pg 269—Anupama Dayal
Pg 269—Anupama Dayal creation
Pg 271—Manish Arora
Pg 271—Manish Arora creation
Pg 273—Gaurav Gupta
Pg 273—Gaurav Gupta creation
Pg 274—Aki Narula
Pg 274—Aki Narula creation
Pg 276—Nandita Basu
Pg 276—Nandita Basu creation
Pg 277—Namrata Joshipura
Pg 277—Namrata Joshipura creation
Pg 279—Rohit and Rahul
Pg 279—Rohit and Rahul creation
Pg 281—Varun Bahl
Pg 281—Varun Bahl creation
xx List of Photographs

Pg 283—Sonam Dubal
Pg 283—Sonam Dubal creation
Pg 285—Anand Kabra
Pg 285—Anand Kabra creation
Pg 286—Payal Jain
Pg 286—Payal Jain creation
Pg 288—Gauri and Nainika Karan
Pg 288—Gauri and Nainika creation
Pg 289—Rina Dhaka
Pg 289—Rina Dhaka creation
Pg 291—Monisha Jaising
Pg 291—Monisha Jaising creation
Pg 292—Prashant Verma
Pg 292—Prashant Verma creation
Pg 294—Anshu Arora
Pg 294—Anshu Arora creation
Pg 296—Kiran Uttam Ghosh
Pg 296—Kiran Uttam Ghosh creation
Pg 298—Nachiket Barve
Pg 298—Nachiket Barve creation
Pg 299—Debarghya Bairagi and Navonil Das (Dev R Nil)
Pg 299—Dev R Nil creation
Pg 301—Varun Sardana
Pg 301—Varun Sardana creation
Pg 303—Samant Chauhan
Pg 303—Samant Chauhan creation

Chapter 14
Pg 331—TAG Heuer ambassador Shah Rukh Khan
Pg 340—Louis Vuitton special order for the Maharaja of Jammu and
Kashmir © Archives Louis Vuitton

The photographs in this book are sourced by Sathya Saran and are
reproduced with permission.
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