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FALL
STYLE
ISSUE

SEPTEMBER 2025
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SEPTEMBER 2025 VOLUME 49 NUMBER 7

F E AT U R E S

108
Field Guide
This season’s wardrobe takes its
cues from the tactile richness and quiet
luxury of Gstaad’s alpine terrain.
PHOTOGRAPHED BY
EDUARDO MIERA

122
Sartori Rules
Zegna’s artistic director, Alessandro
Sartori, redefines menswear with a blend
of timeless craftsmanship, innovative
textiles, and a visionary embrace of
personal style that takes precedence over
fleeting trends.
BY NAOMI ROUGEAU

132
Mi Casa Es Su Casa
On a remote Spanish estate, gallerists
Eva Albarrán and Christian Bourdais
are pioneering Solo Houses—a bold
project marrying starchitect-designed
vacation homes, immersive art
installations, and organic vineyards.
BY SIOBHAN REID

Zegna wool and

cashmere coat, price 140
upon request; Caruso
wool-flannel jacket, The Measure of a Man
$1,845; Tod’s wool and
Once seen as a step below bespoke,
silk turtleneck, $1,075;
Dolce & Gabbana made-to-measure is now claiming its
wool-tweed trousers, own spotlight—offered by Manhattan’s
price upon request; top salons as a tailored, time-savvy
Brunello Cucinelli alternative that unites tradition with
EDUARDO MIERA

calfskin belt, $930; today’s pace.

Paul Smith sheepskin
gloves, $295. BY ERIC TWARDZIK

20 THE FALL STYLE ISSUE

SEPTEMBER 2025 CONTENTS
 D E PA R T M E N T S

28
CONTRIBUTORS

30
LETTER FROM
T H E ED I T OR

54
THE ANSWERS
with model turned
fragrance founder
Chris Collins.

P. 46

P. 68

THE GOODS THE VAULT DREAM MACHINES

68
G EN I US AT WORK 32 STYLE 44 ART 52 THE VAULT 76 WHEELS
How Lunaz transforms The narrow trouser As two major exhibitions Craft a scaled Aston, Test-driving Ferrari’s
British classic cars makes room for a spacious open, 85-year-old Larry Bentley, or Bugatti to your all-new F80 hypercar.
into bespoke electric silhouette. Also, a Bell looks back on his exact specs, then venture to And meet the Temerario,
masterpieces with cashmere-silk scarf that storied career. the British countryside to Lamborghini’s latest
cutting-edge tech. adapts to any look, and pick it up in person. hybrid beast.
46 FOOD & DRINK
can Tod’s push leather
148 to new heights? How an Algarve chef has
held two Michelin stars for
DOMAIN 86 WINGS
Private cabins finally
T H E D OW NL OA D
38 GROOMING 30 years without repeating 59 OBJECTIFIED receive the high-design
A vintage connoisseur
This fall’s standout scents a menu. Plus, a smooth treatment they deserve.
shares his sourcing Forget the tassels. A fresh
take their inspiration Welsh gin lands stateside. Plus, Paris Hilton’s
secrets (and it’s not generation of designers is
straight from your closet. G450 jet gets a hot-pink
your local dealer). 50 TRAVEL reviving fringe.
makeover.
40 JEWELRY These supervillas are 62 DESIGN
Ravi Kheni’s debut pairing the seclusion 90 WATER
collection blends of a private estate with Meet the brands turning
showrooms into soulful, Amid changing tides,
antique diamonds with the indulgence of a five- renowned shipyards are
sculptural, avant-garde star resort. sensory destinations.
finding new ways to
artistry. stand out.
42 WATCHES 94 TECH
P. 42
Once overshadowed Luphonic’s H2
by Swiss giants, American turntable pares vinyl
horology is making an playback down to its
exciting comeback. essentials—no buttons,
C OV ER just stunning sound.
I L LUSTR ATED BY
SIRICHAI

22 THE FALL STYLE ISSUE

SEPTEMBER 2025 CONTENTS
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CARING for BEAUTY
since 1873
E X P LO R E T H E H O U S E O F YAC H T I N G
AT B E N E T T I YAC H T S . I T
 Naomi Rougeau
Robb Report’s style editor takes readers
behind the scenes of Alessandro Sartori’s
quiet revolution at Zegna with “Sartori
Rules” (p. 122). In an industry fueled by
constant reinvention, Sartori’s enduring
leadership signals a return to thoughtful,
patient creativity. “This fashion month,
there will be at least half a dozen buzzy
debuts—in Paris and Milan alone,” Rougeau
says. “While change can be a good thing,
Alessandro Sartori’s tenure at Zegna is a
testament to what can happen when
fashion houses stop playing designer
musical chairs and allow creatives time to
explore their visions.”

Sirichai Bryan Hood Siobhan Reid Eduardo Miera

Known for his minimalist yet A senior writer at Robb Reid calls Barcelona home but Trained as a photojournalist,
expressive linework, Report, Hood has covered spends much of her time Miera has spent the past two
Bangkok-born illustrator everything from audiophile chasing stories off the beaten decades crafting fashion
Sirichai merges elegance with gear to hypercars—and his path. With credits in Vogue images that feel cinematic
structural precision. He latest assignment took him and Departures—and a and emotionally resonant. His
studied interior architecture, deep into the next front in the background as a Travel + work captures the human
and his figures often appear E.V. revolution. In September’s Leisure editor—she excels at presence behind the clothes,
to be in mid-motion, Genius at Work (p. 68), he uncovering hidden gems. For prioritizing atmosphere and
abstracted yet precise, with explores how Lunaz is this month’s feature “Mi Casa narrative over styling alone.
just enough detail to draw reviving classic British cars by Es Su Casa” (p. 132), she For this issue’s feature “Field
you in. His restrained electrifying them for the explored the Matarraña Guide” (p. 108), he brought
approach—built on flat tones, modern road. “It’s a sad fact region of Spain, where that sensibility to the
gouache-like textures, and that many British classics visionary gallerists are dramatic natural backdrops of
synthetic silhouettes—has rarely drive as well as they crafting a radical design Gstaad. “We had really bad
earned him commissions look,” he says. “Lunaz’s playground. “I usually head weather on the first day,” he
from Hermès, Saks Fifth solution is to future-proof north to Costa Brava or south recalls. “It rained a lot, but
Avenue, and German Vogue yesterday’s beloved Rolls- to Priorat,” she explains, the whole team rose to the
and now the cover of Robb Royce saloons or Land Rover “but this eastern corner of occasion and we adapted to
Report. “I’m always seeking 4x4s by converting them into Aragon where Solo Houses the situation.”
beauty in simplicity,” he says. E.V.s without altering the style is located had never really
and craftsmanship that won been on my radar.”
them renown as gas-guzzlers.”

28 THE FALL STYLE ISSUE

SEPTEMBER 2025 CONTRIBUTORS
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 LETTER FROM THE EDITOR

Alessandro Sartori leans against his red 1972 Lancia

Fulvia HF “Fanalone” at Milano Garage.

hen I was a teenager, has spent the better part of a decade weaving renowned fashion houses present it not as a
footwear was a his hometown’s textile D.N.A. into collections compromise but as a statement, with fabrics,
declaration of allegiance. that refuse to be hemmed in by tradition. His finishes, and fits that carry each maison’s
Mine came down to two clothes are built for layering, traveling, and lineage while adapting to the wearer’s shape
essentials—creepers living—pieces meant to blend with what a man and style. The result: precision without the
and monkey boots—as already owns, so each new arrival deepens months-long wait.
much a part of the the wardrobe rather than overwrites it. Beyond wardrobes and runways, there’s
punk scene’s vocabulary as spiky hair, leather Rougeau finds Sartori at once attuned to his more to discover. We spend time with a chef in
jackets, and D.I.Y. album covers. I didn’t clients’ habits and in step with the mills’ Algarve, Portugal, who has kept two Michelin
choose them for comfort or even utility. innovations. For him, a collection isn’t a reset stars for three decades without repeating a
They were signals—to friends, strangers, and but a continuation. menu; sample a Welsh gin smooth enough to
perhaps most of all to myself—that I belonged Writer Nick Hendry picks up the thread in sip neat; and check into a slate of supervillas
to a certain tribe. “Cut Loose” (p. 32), tracking the widening of the that combine five-star indulgence with the
I’d like to say I’ve outgrown them, but the trouser leg from Neapolitan tailoring to Milan’s privacy of your own estate. We even spotlight
truth is they’ve simply evolved with me. The runways. The change may sound subtle, but the American watchmaking’s comeback—a
creepers now often anchor an unstructured impact is dramatic: more ease of movement, reminder that reinvention is hardly exclusive to
Barena suit; the monkey boots surface under better airflow, and fabric that drapes and billows the fitting room.
wide-wale cords on days when formality rather than clings. While the silhouette has long As for those creepers and monkey boots,
feels too fussy. They’re no longer rebellious been favored by style-savvy dressers, venerable they’ve outlasted trends, crossed worlds, and
declarations so much as quiet asides—Easter houses are now embracing the cut—less a fad adapted to more than a few dress codes. You’ll
eggs for me and reminders that style isn’t than a recalibration, with elegance expressed see that same dynamic at play throughout these
something you have to discard with age. It’s through proportion and movement instead pages, as heritage is recut for the present and
a language you keep refining, one pairing at a of constraint. personal style sets the course.
time: equal parts personal signature and living From there, writer Eric Twardzik takes Enjoy the issue.
DANIELE MANGO/ W WD

history. It’s that mix that runs through this us inside the hushed salons where made-to-
year’s fall style issue. measure is having a moment (p. 140). Long
Take Alessandro Sartori, the subject of style
editor Naomi Rougeau’s profile in “Sartori
considered bespoke’s lesser sibling, MTM now
arrives with craftsmanship, personal attention, John Vorwald
Rules” (p. 122). The Zegna artistic director and—crucially—speed in equal measure. Three EXECU TIVE EDITOR

30 THE FALL STYLE ISSUE

SEPTEMBER 2025 L ET T E R F RO M T H E E D I T O R
 Some shapes were
never meant to be
forgotten.

T H E R E I S N O S U B S T I T U T E
©2025 Porsche Cars North America, Inc. Porsche recommends seat belt usage and observance of traffic laws at all times.
Cut Loose
The style pendulum
is swinging away from
the slim-fit trouser.
How wide should you go?

32 THE GOODS
SEPTEMBER 2025 ILLUSTRATED BY Darya Semenova
 THE GOODS
T H I S M O N T H ’ S W H O, W H AT, A N D W E A R

THE GOODS
ST Y L E SEPTEMBER 2025 33
At Milan Fashion Week in June, luxury
tailoring house Cesare Attolini announced
it would be widening its trousers. The
updated silhouette, which will see the
leg opening increase from 19 centimeters
to 23, may be imperceptible to the eye
of most observers, but it represents a
sizable shift in prevailing tastes when
you consider Attolini’s traditional
Neapolitan roots. “Our approach has
always been rooted in timeless elegance,
rather than fleeting trends,” says
Massimiliano Attolini, president of the
brand. “The change is more of a
refinement than a revolution.”
And yet, this is no flash in the pan.
The post-pandemic years have seen a
gradual relaxation of most garments and
a renewed focus on comfort. Wider
trouser legs allow the thermoregulating
properties of the chosen cloth to
function properly while also letting the
body move with less restriction.
(Seemingly hundreds of well-dressed
guys tested this theory in Florence
during the summer’s Pitti Uomo
menswear trade show.) There are
aesthetic benefits as well: Dag Granath,
cofounder of Swedish tailor Saman Amel,
tells Robb Report that “having a bit of
space between the body and the fabric
allows the cloth to drape properly and
flow better.” Translation: If you’ve paid a
premium to have the best fabric in the
world, you should let it do its job.
Many of luxury’s biggest menswear
brands are once again embracing louche, the fickle world of fashion, there has
voluminous tailoring. Brioni’s fall 2025 been a more consistent love of the style.
collection featured a performance by Take Connolly, the London-based
ballerinos demonstrating just how much heritage brand whose tailoring has been
freedom of movement its clothes offer. almost decadently relaxed for many
Fendi’s coed centenary show in February years now. “Since 2016 Marc Audibet has
displayed many spacious legs and designed for Connolly, and [we] have
puddling hems, while Kim Jones always had a wide-leg trouser in the
proposed straight-up palazzo pants in collections,” says owner Isabel Ettedgui.
his final showing for Dior. It’s a clear From left: Cesare “The wide leg allows the fabric to show
shift, and designers have collectively Attolini is taking its [its] full beauty, reveals the drape. You
deemed that it’s time for trousers to traditional trousers a can’t hide a poor fabric with [a] wider
once again widen. few centimeters wider; cut; it needs to be designed and cut and
Officine Générale will
But in the tailoring space, where introduce its ninth—and
crafted properly.”
traditions are more tightly held than in widest—cut this fall. What makes this trend so appealing is

34 THE GOODS
SEPTEMBER 2025 ST Y L E
 Clockwise from left:
Brioni’s take on the
wide-legged look;
Saman Amel’s cut
gives a sizable break;
Connolly’s cuffed
Sash style.

that it feels somewhat like a return to

form. In Naples, tailors have long
preferred pleated pants with a relaxed
silhouette. Now anyone with an
Instagram account and an interest in
menswear will have been swamped with
images of this style lately. Pictures of
N.B.A. legend Pat Riley stalking the
sidelines in his roomy 1980s Armani suits
(or anyone who wore Armani in that era)
have flooded the zeitgeist, while a slew of
contemporary celebrities from Brad Pitt
to Robert Downey Jr. have also cosigned
the trend.
But who is actually wearing these
trousers today? It’s easy to break from the
norm when you’re a professional dresser,
but are office-dwelling men also leaving
the standard, slimmer fits behind? Pierre
Mahéo says yes. The French designer has
developed nine distinct trouser cuts, each
one seemingly wider than the last, since
he founded Officine Générale in 2012.
He estimates about 70 percent of his
customers have embraced his Nash
pants, with their 25-centimeter leg
opening, as well as or instead of the
Pierre, which tapers to just 18 centimeters.
This month, Mahéo introduced his
most recent style, the Evans, with a
whopping 28-centimeter leg opening.
At Saman Amel, the shift is less
pronounced, but about 30 percent of its
made-to-measure clientele is now
commissioning wider cuts.
Even my own tastes have evolved:
Since being persuaded to try a pleated,
wide-leg trouser from Sunspel around
four years ago, my collection has grown
beyond count. The extra space around the
seat and thigh that the pleats afford was a
revelation; the gentle sway of the cloth as I
walk brings a nonchalance, and somehow
an added confidence, to my demeanor
when I wear them. As a result, I can no
longer bring myself to wear jeans.
And as more guys discover just how
good they can look and feel in a more
generously cut pair of pants, we might all
have to start making more room for one
another to pass by on the street. Nick Hendry

ST Y L E
 The generously sized
scarf measures
Cesare
Attolini’s
about 36 inches
by 78 inches,
showcasing the
artwork and offering
a good drape—and
plenty to play with,
however you choose
to wear it.
Art Scarf
From its painterly scene
to its hand-
finished hems, this
versatile garment
carries heirloom appeal.

S
carves are one of those
accessories that are easy to
amass a lot of, but Cesare
Attolini’s latest—a limited-run
design for the Neapolitan
tailoring house’s fall-winter 2025
collection—might be the most versatile
one you ever buy.
While the brand creates printed
scarves each year, the designs change
seasonally. This bold release revives a
1930s fashion illustration featuring an
image of a man on the street that reads
more abstract when knotted. Wide
swaths of mustard yellow, royal blue, and
red, balanced with cream, help the
finished product move easily between
casual fare and smarter ensembles.
Remarkably, it looks as sharp with a
camel coat as it does effortlessly cool
with a denim jacket.
But what truly sets it apart is its
gossamer-thin weight. The material is
handmade from a 70-30 blend of the
finest Mongolian cashmere and lustrous
Italian silk. Artisans in Italy carefully
spin and weave the yarn, printing and
finishing each scarf by hand. As a result of
this effort, it feels like both a collector’s
item and a seasonal essential. How many
The $1,850 scarves of your clothes can you say that about?
start with 400 grams of Abigail Montanez
raw cashmere sheared
from the undercoat
of high-altitude hircus
goats. Only the longest,
softest fibers make
it into the final yarn, Eyelash fringing is
as those pill less than crafted manually, thread
shorter ones. Silk by thread, with invisible
enhances fluidity and stitching along hand-
durability and allows the rolled hems to prevent
dyes to impart more- fraying and offering
saturated colors. a more refined look.

36 THE GOODS
SEPTEMBER 2025 PHOTOGRAPHED BY Janelle Jones STYLED BY Miako Katoh
MATERIAL WORLD
Tod’s has long sourced
fashion’s finest hides. This fall,
the brand’s leatherworkers are
elevating them to new heights.

For Tod’s Group chairman Diego Della terms of lightness and softness, evoking
Valle, investing in craftsmanship is a the refinement of pashmina,” says Della
driving principle. It even extends to Valle, who certainly knows his way
realms beyond Tod’s HQ. For proof, look around a ring shawl: His recognizable
to the 286-page book, Italian Hands: uniform features one knotted at the neck
Artisanal Stories From Italy. The in place of a tie. “At the heart of Pashmy
company published it earlier this is the concept of artisanal intelligence—a as rucksacks, puffer jackets, and driving
summer as a way to spotlight makers at philosophy that puts people and their sneakers that marry softness with
the highest level of their technique, skills at the center of fashion, preserving resilience. A double-dyeing process
whose rarefied expertise might traditional know-how while ensuring ensures particularly rich hues (including
otherwise be at risk of extinction. that the human touch remains a most covetable chocolate brown) while
But as any luxury executive knows, fundamental to the creative and a naturally derived stain-resistant
Clockwise from top left:
the work such artisans can do is limited Models wearing a developmental process.” waterproofing treatment enables the
only by the quality of the raw materials bomber jacket (left) Only highly skilled craftspeople, such hides to remain soft, breathable, and
on their benches. With the introduction and a coach jacket, as those at Tod’s production facility in protected from the elements.
both in Pashmy suede,
of its new Pashmy collection, Tod’s is Italy’s Marche region, are capable of “It is the quality of the materials,
$4,945 each; an artisan
aiming to raise the bar on leather cutting the leather to working the Pashmy leathers—reduced to combined with the skill of the human
sourcing and engineering. make shoes; Pashmy just 0.5 millimeters in thickness—without hand, that truly makes the difference,”
The name alone, a nod to cashmere, suede shirt jacket, compromising structural integrity. Most says Della Valle. In an era of corner-
signals just how soft and silky it is. $5,195; Pashmy suede leathers lose body or durability when cutting and A.I., it’s a lesson other luxury
T-Marathon sneakers,
“Tod’s Pashmy project represents the $1,175; Pashmy suede
handled to such a degree. That unique brands would do well to remember.
highest expression of leather selection in backpack, $3,695. property results in utilitarian staples such Naomi Rougeau

THE GOODS
ST Y L E SEPTEMBER 2025 37
 GROOMING

Style Notes
The season’s most stylish scents mine a familiar
source for inspiration: your closet.

C
lothes and fragrances have would deploy when he got dressed up
always shared a strong for date nights. “She always said, ‘You
bond—and not just because think you’re too fucking chic,’’’ he recalls
the brands that craft the with a laugh.
best menswear tend to Most of these new scents wear such
produce stellar colognes. These invisible sartorial inspiration lightly—but Ralph
accessories add a sensory dimension to Lauren’s latest might make you want to
every outfit, often doubling as an extra don a tie. Called Ralph’s Club New York,
dose of confidence. it conjures images of a members-only
But recently, companies large and boîte with a polished dress code. Asked
small have examined this dynamic more what he’d wear to such a club if it were
literally, creating scents that evoke ever built, the scent’s spokesman, Usher,
individual garments, materials, and ideas tells Robb Report, “I’m willing to put on
associated with style. Take the verdant a suit for that.” Here, a few other new
Monsieur Chic from designer Brett fragrances that might make you think
Johnson’s debut trio of parfums, named twice about what you’re wearing.
after a running joke his late wife, Sarah, Justin Fenner
E

GREY BLAZER THE CUT RALPH’S MONSIEUR CHIC SUBLIME LEATHER

D.S. & Durga Penhaligon’s CLUB NEW YORK Brett Johnson Ferragamo
Ralph Lauren
For the base of this cheeky Don’t let the Q4 tweed on the With its elegant, easy-to-wear The Italian maison is renowned
homage to corporate life in the label fool you. Perfumer Paul With a bright burst of black combination of cardamom, cedar, for its leather goods, so it’s no
late 1990s and early aughts, Guerlain crafted this fresh, currant and citrus zest, this and patchouli, this fragrance may surprise that it would take pains
David Seth Moltz concocted a arboreal scent to honor the celebratory scent channels a encourage people to lean to convincingly capture the
virgin-wool accord seasonless heritage of Savile well-mixed cocktail—which may in for a second whiff. “Each time material’s alluring aroma.
from “sandalwood, peach, and Row. “Wearing something made- explain why its bottle looks I wore it, [she] would always This scent reflects how leather is
parsley.” Here, it’s blended with to-measure brings a sense of like a flask from the Prohibition give me a look that I had never worn in an urban landscape,
green spices, tea, and confidence and ease,” he says—a era. It dries into a confident, seen before,” Johnson says pairing it with cedar, davana, and
musk for a result that goes feeling he replicated with mint, masculine mix of oakmoss of his wife, who created the cinnamon for a warming effect
from office to evening. basil, cedarwood, and vetiver. and balsam fir. formulas with him. that feels like a second skin.
$210 for 50 ml $250 for 100 ml $135 for 110 ml About $300 for 100 ml $125 for 100 ml

38 THE GOODS
SEPTEMBER 2025 G RO O M I N G
 A HISTORY OF ELEGANCE.

798 Madison Avenue NY, Bal Harbour Shops FL, Bergdorf Goodman NY, Stanley Korshak TX
 JEWELRY

First Cut
Indian jeweler Ravi Kheni’s debut offering—filled with striking avant-garde
works set with antique stones—heralds a promising new talent.

Kheni’s diamond
and gold earrings
reference decorative
Mughal shapes in a
minimalist setting.

40 THE GOODS
SEPTEMBER 2025 J EW E L RY
 Clockwise from top: Kheni’s diamond appears like
technical prowess is a shard of glass set in
illustrated in pieces like a brushed-gold ring; a
this bracelet with 30 oval- cushion-cut diamond is
cut tension-set diamonds surrounded by “moval”-
fanning out around cut diamonds set at
the wrist; a tension-set 90-degree angles.

antique diamond. “There’s a strange

poetry in the proportions of old stones,”
he says. “A chipped edge, a softened
vein—if it’s ancient, I cannot resist. It
becomes more than a diamond; it
becomes a vessel of memory, of time.” A
stone might sit on his desk for days or
even weeks before a design takes shape
in his mind. Once inspiration strikes, he
sketches the piece and produces a clay
model to explore the proportion and
volume. Each example is then made in
silver “to see the whole journey of a
piece” before artisans craft them in
precious metals. His ultimate goal: to
create a design “where stone and metal
become one.”
His distinctive pieces combine
decorative Mughal motifs and
architecture with the refined lines of
Bauhaus furnishings and the lyrical
beauty he observes in nature. One ring
evokes an insect, albeit one created
with a rare unheated pigeon-blood
Mozambique ruby and wings made of

A
t first glance, designer and relocated to Turkey in 2016 to elongated old-mine-cut diamonds. It’s
Ravi Kheni’s floral ring explore new artistic horizons. During set in a subtle brushed white gold, and
appears to cradle a shard of his time in Istanbul, he traded in antique the metal almost disappears. Another
glass. But a closer look diamonds, immersing himself in the ring illustrates his technical mastery: In
reveals a large, flat antique city’s legacy of crafts and antiquities and it, a cushion-cut diamond is surrounded
diamond, with delicate facets evoking training under an Armenian master by “moval”-cut diamonds (a shape that
ripples on water. It’s part of the jeweler. “He taught me how to make combines marquise and oval). Tension-
designer’s debut collection, unveiled metal flow, how to sculpt it, and how to set a 90-degree angles, the smaller stones
in the U.S. in June, that showcases rare balance proportion and volume,” Kheni appear like undulating waves.
diamonds in sculptural and quietly says during a recent visit to New In his first year, he created 35 unique
radical settings. York—his first trip to the United States. pieces but only recently began sharing
Hailing from a long line of diamond Kheni returned to Mumbai in 2024, them with prospective collectors. “I
dealers, Kheni could easily have brimming with new ideas and skills and keep them in a safe until the right client
followed in his ancestors’ footsteps. a collection of vintage stones assembled comes along,” says Kheni. Now that
Instead, after working with his family over several years. Each of his designs word is out, they likely won’t stay in his
for five years, he chose a different path begins with such gems—most often an vault for long. Jill Newman

THE GOODS
J EW E L RY SEPTEMBER 2025 41
WATCHES

Born in
the U.S.A. W
J. N. Shapiro Infinity
Series Pure
The new 37 mm Infinity Series Pure
features a Swiss manufacture
Swiss watchmaking may movement from La Joux-Perret.
be the default choice It showcases a signature in-house
hand-cut Infinity-weave guilloche
for collectors, but three on the inner dial, encircled by a
radially brushed-steel chapter ring.
U.S. brands are offering The $26,000 Infinity Pure embraces
compelling homegrown wearable classicism while
straddling the line between
alternatives. vintage and modern.

D
uring the 19th century, the
U.S. was known for making
rugged and affordable
watches, dominating the
production of railroad- W
grade timepieces prized for accuracy
RGM Watch Co.
and durability. They also provided Pennsylvania Tourbillon
accessible models to civilians into the
Based in Lancaster, Pa., RGM
early 1900s.
offers everything from affordable
But after World War I, Swiss brands
tool watches like the Model 300
began gaining prestige; by the ’70s, quartz
Diver at $3,700 to its much-lauded
accuracy from Japan nearly decimated
Pennsylvania Tourbillon, priced at
mechanical watchmaking worldwide. $125,000. The latter is the first and
Stateside, it never quite recovered. only watch serially produced in
Recently, however, a new crop of North America that is equipped with
niche watchmakers is changing the a hand-crafted tourbillon made in
perception of American horology. RGM the U.S. It also features an in-house
Watch Co., the Cornell Watch Company, movement and fine traditional-
and J. N. Shapiro are paving the way for watchmaking decorations.
a broader revival. “The biggest challenge
is our lack of a [watch] labor force
combined with the fact that the Made in
the U.S. label means the watch has to be
made in the U.S.,” says Josh Shapiro of
the eponymous watch brand. “The Swiss,
in comparison, can still source their
components from Asia and still qualify as
Swiss-made.”
As an early initiator of the revival, W
Roland G. Murphy has seen a significant
The Cornell Watch
shift in interest since founding RGM Company Lozier
Watch Co. in 1992. “For years now,
In 2021, Chicago collector John
many of our clients want to buy from
Warren and his wife, Chrissy,
us because we are an American watch
purchased the brand (founded in
company,” he says. He admits to using
1870) and officially revived it in 2024
some European-supplied parts but
with the help of RGM’s Murphy.
proudly says, for now, RGM’s prices Cornell’s most recent release is the
have not risen with tariffs. Despite the minimalist $6,200 Lozier, a 37.4 mm
challenges, American-made timepieces model with a three-tier sandblasted-
are increasingly coveted, not just German-silver dial. Setting Cornell’s
because they are local, but also because standards, the case, crown, dial,
they offer quality craftsmanship on and hands are all manufactured on
par with the Swiss. Here are three C.N.C. machines by Swiss-trained
references that prove it. Thor Svaboe watchmakers and machinists in Ohio.

42 THE GOODS
SEPTEMBER 2025 WAT C H E S
WORLDOFREZA.COM
MISTRAL NECKLACE FEATURING ONE 43.85 CARAT ROYAL BLUE BURMESE SAPPHIRE
 ART

IN THE STUDIO WITH

Larry Bell
The octogenarian artist talks about his upcoming shows,
the magic of glass, and what has kept him alive.

A
s a quintessential member the artwork anyway, inserting a sheet the glass reflects, absorbs, and transmits
of the Light and Space of blue paper behind the shard. light. His work will be the subject of two
movement—the blend of “It was a complete epiphany,” he exhibitions in New York in September—
Minimalism and curiosity recalls in his studio in Taos, N.M., in Madison Square Park and at the Judd
about optical perception wearing one of his trademark jaunty Foundation—as well as a retrospective
that germinated among a coterie of West hats and surrounded by some of his that opened August 29 at the San

SOLAR STUDY 38: COURTESY OF LARRY BELL; PHOTO: DESIREE MANVILLE.

Coast artists in the 1960s—Larry Bell collection of 400 guitars, give or take. Antonio Museum of Art.
has spent the better part of seven “The break made three lines: the shadow In the park, six monumental pieces,
decades rigorously investigating the of the break, the reflection of the break two of them site-specific, will be spread
beguiling properties of glass. But his just above that, and the break itself, across as many lawns. They include
practice began with an accident. [all] floating in this blue plane. I was From left: Untitled Coated cubes and configurations that resemble
He’d dropped out of the Chouinard absolutely floored by how beautiful the SS (Habenaro), 2024, deconstructed boxes, the connected
laminated glass coated
Art Institute in Los Angeles, where he’d whole thing was. The epiphany was that with inconel and
walls zigzagging through space in right
enrolled with the goal of becoming a life can be that simple, that you can trust silicon monoxide; Sand angles. “The sculptures balance in the
Disney animator, after realizing he was your improvisation. I learned so much Wall 4 Panels, 2025, weight of their own vertical thrust,”
more drawn to fine art. To pay for a from that moment that I essentially laminated glass coated Bell explains. Viewers’ perceptions
with silicon monoxide,
studio in Venice Beach, he took a job in carried on with that thing until today.” chrome, and quartz;
will change not only with the light of
a frame shop. There, he learned to cut Forever seeking an element of Solar Study 38, 2024, day but also with the seasons, as the
glass—and began experimenting with surprise, he went on to make his name mixed media with objects, which have proved surprisingly
its “magical qualities” in his paintings with glass cubes, often coated with aluminum and silicon immune to the elements, will remain up
monoxide, mounted
and sculptures. When a piece he was thin metallic, oxide, or quartz deposits until March 15.
on canvas, which will
placing in a small shadow box broke in that he vaporized in his own industrial be in the Judd The Judd show will feature 12 two-
half, he grudgingly decided to finish vacuum tank, subtly altering the way Foundation show. dimensional works, all made since the

44 THE GOODS
SEPTEMBER 2025 PHOTOGRAPHED BY Stefan Wachs
 2024 death of his wife, Janet Webb
Larry Bell in his Taos, Bell, whom he describes as a “fantastic
N.M., studio. Right:
mate” for 52 years. “I was in pretty poor
Untitled Cube, 2023,
rosa-tinted glass shape for a couple of months,” he recalls.
coated with chrome, “I decided I had to get back to doing
silicon monoxide, and something, and this work just fell out of
titanium with nickel my hands.”
chrome banding (left)
and Untitled Cube,
Composed of 100 or more layers of
2023, glass coated ultrathin film produced in the vacuum
with chrome and tank, the silvery pieces are abstract but
silicon monoxide with reveal a tinge of figuration. “Some of
black nickel chrome
banding (right).
them look like creatures,” he says. “They
don’t look like people, but they look like
something that’s not inanimate.”
At 85, Bell has discovered another
advantage to working in two dimensions.
“It’s a lot easier physically, because the
glass is heavy and I’m not so strong
anymore,” he says with a laugh. “I mean,
part of [what I loved about] being a
sculptor was grunting heavy shit around.
There was a sensuousness to doing those
things, but it hurts too much now.”
Bell has enjoyed renewed enthusiasm
for his work in recent years—he’s now

represented by the powerful Hauser

& Wirth gallery—but he experienced a
self-imposed lull after decamping from
L.A. to Taos in 1973 and quitting the
influential Pace gallery. The financial
end of the art world scared him, he says,
and “wasn’t good for me.”
“And so rather than drive up a road
where I didn’t know [if ] I could control
the vehicle, I just parked in a quiet
place,” he adds.
He admits to some regrets today
but also says that had he not moved to
New Mexico, “I probably wouldn’t have
survived. There were just too many
distractions, whether it was alcohol
or drugs or whatever else. I just had a
weakness, and this place gave me the
strength to carry on.”
As for what guided his artmaking, he
cites the most important advice imparted
by his friend and mentor Robert Irwin:
“Trust myself.” Julie Belcove

THE GOODS
A RT SEPTEMBER 2025 45
FOOD & DRINK

Everyday Joy
At a small hotel on Portugal’s southern coast, a
relentlessly creative chef has won worldwide acclaim by
serving a different daily menu for the past 30 years.

D
ieter Koschina could
probably get away with
being a little less humble.
The 63-year-old chef helms
the kitchen at Vila Joya—
the restaurant of a gracious boutique
hotel in Portugal that shares its name—
which earned one Michelin star in 1995
and a second in 1999. He has held on to
both ever since. That means this year,
he’s celebrating an accomplishment few
of his contemporaries can claim: three
decades of achieving one of the culinary
world’s highest honors.
And yet, the accolades aren’t

LOBSTER, SNACKS, AND SCARLET PRAWNS: LUK AS KIRCHG ASSER. VILA JOYA SEA
RESTAURANT: VASCO CELIO. XIRINGUITO BEACH AND CHEF KOSCHINA: VILA JOYA.
what motivates him. “I don’t cook for
Michelin; I cook for the clients,” he says.
“They are my stars.”
What makes his winning streak even
more astounding is that he has done it
by devising a new menu every single
day. It’s a level of commitment that can
seem at odds with this laid-back beach
resort near the southwestern tip of the
Iberian Peninsula.
Klaus Jung and his late wife, Claudia,
bought Vila Joya as a vacation home
in 1979, long before the neighboring
structures that now line the winding
shorefront road were built. Their
daughter Joy, for whom the property
is named, took over ownership of the
hotel in 2013. She tells Robb Report that
her father was attracted to the house by

46 THE GOODS
SEPTEMBER 2025 FOOD & DRINK
 These pages, from far left: a view of Vila Joya
Vila Joya’s lobster with from Xiringuito Beach;
Thai curry and mango, Koschina grating
one of the many dishes truffles in the kitchen; a
that earned chef selection of snacks from
Dieter Koschina two the menu; carabiniero,
Michelin stars; crispy Portuguese scarlet
fried squid served at prawns, plated with tonka
the hotel’s beach shack; and cilantro.

the legend of its grand dining table: a

13-foot-long slab of travertine. “It’s one
piece, and they must have brought it in
before everything else was constructed
around it,” she says of the main dining
room’s centerpiece.
Three years after they purchased
the property, Claudia, a German-born
interior designer, decided to open the
home to guests. It now has 13 individually
designed rooms and suites, and bookings
are coveted as much for Koschina’s
cuisine as they are for stellar views of the
Atlantic and direct access to the beach.
The setting informs Koschina’s
beautifully presented and profoundly
savory dishes, which guests and visitors
can enjoy via varied dining options: the
award-winning restaurant’s 13- and five-
course tasting menus; flavorful snacks him into an earlier revival. “Someone important as the dishes—Koschina will
at the poolside bar; and the casual was here yesterday and said he wanted sample up to 20 wines from Vila Joya’s
oceanfront venue Vila Joya Sea, which a cataplana,” a Portuguese fish stew 1,600-strong list to find the right pairing.
serves Japanese cuisine alongside another named after the distinctive copper pot “When you have a plate and a good wine,
globally inspired menu that is reimagined it’s cooked in. “He wanted my style, with the combination makes the taste go up by
annually. Each of these locations changes clams and meat, and I made it for him.” 20 percent,” he explains.
what’s on offer regularly to give patrons But there are ingredients he revisits Ultimately, the secret to his
the sense that they’re visiting friends, not more frequently: Saturday nights, for achievements may come down to how
checking into a hotel. “You wouldn’t cook instance, sometimes feature foie gras. “I many hours he’s willing to spend pursuing
the same thing twice for your friends at like it with different fruits, salt, caramel culinary mastery. Joy’s staff has told her
home, right?” Joy asks. mousse, something sweet,” he adds. more than once that Koschina can be
Koschina often serves a dish once “You take the foie gras and a marinade, a found in the kitchen at 2 a.m., perfecting
and retires it for four or five years reduction of grape juice with Cognac or one of his light, flavorful sauces. “He’s a
before bringing it back—with a twist. white port, and it tastes so good.” true artist,” Joy says. “I don’t know how
Occasionally, a repeat guest can coax The wine selections are just as he does it.” Mike DeSimone and Jeff Jenssen

THE GOODS
FOOD & DRINK SEPTEMBER 2025 47
 trained singer, Jenkins had long been
advised against drinking alcohol, as
its harshness can affect the voice. And
while she abided by that rule, she also
wondered about ways to get around
it. When the pandemic filled their
calendars with copious time at home,
the duo got to work creating a gentler
version of the spirit. That ethos touches
everything from Cygnet’s stylish bottle,
designed to weigh less than standard
containers and double as a flower vase
once the liquid is finished (the label
can be washed off ), to its organically
sourced botanicals.
One of Cygnet’s key ingredients is
manuka honey, a cultivar with unique

Gentle Spirit healing and antimicrobial properties,

which many singers consume to protect
their throats. The honey helps soften
the finished product’s bite, so much so
Cygnet, a gin designed to be smooth enough to that you can sip it neat or on the rocks.
This quality has already helped the
sip neat, is making its stateside debut this fall after gin win more than a dozen awards and
charming drinkers and bartenders across the pond. a loyal audience. Fortnum & Mason
stocks it, and earlier this year Harrods
launched the golden-colored Cygnet

F
or a recent school project about late 2023 and lands in the United States 77, which gets its hue from 55 weeks
her family, Katherine Jenkins this fall. The brand will expand on of resting in ex–Welsh whiskey casks.
and Andrew Levitas’s daughter this side of the Atlantic with three The exclusive London members’ club
didn’t mention that her mother expressions: Cygnet Welsh Dry ($45), Annabel’s even created a version of
is an opera singer who has Cygnet 22 ($66), and Cygnet 77 ($150). James Bond’s Vesper martini with
performed for Queen Elizabeth II, or The bottles will initially be available in Cygnet, pairing it with Cîroc vodka,
that her father is a filmmaker who has New York, Miami, Las Vegas, and Los Lillet Blanc, and crème de pêche.
worked with Amy Adams and Ralph Angeles, with the goal of spreading to Still, the gin’s success has come
Fiennes. Instead, she said that her parents eight to 10 cities by the end of the decade, as something of a surprise. “It’s very
make gin and tonics. “I had to write a according to Matteo Fantacchiotti, a unusual in my world for everyone to
Above, from left: Cygnet 77,
little note to the teacher: ‘We also created longtime spirits-industry exec who joined the brand’s highest-end like something,” Levitas says. “It’s really
a luxury gin brand, so that’s what she’s the company as a partner and chairman expression, which gets hard to make a film or make a piece of
referring to,’” Jenkins says. last November. its color from a little art that universally people connect with
The husband-and-wife team are But the couple didn’t intend for over a year of resting and love and are supportive of.” Cygnet,
in ex-whiskey casks;
behind Cygnet, a high-end gin that Cygnet to become the in-demand Levitas and Jenkins at a
he adds, “suddenly was this other
launched in the United Kingdom in product it is today. A classically bar in London. animal.” Tori Latham

48 THE GOODS
SEPTEMBER 2025 FOOD & DRINK
TRAVEL “There’s just something about being on
your own timetable and doing whatever
you want,” he adds. “For the luxury

Supersize Me traveler, that’s gold.”

Safety is another factor, adds
Squatriglia. Staying at a supervilla
means you can wear what you want and
Private, exclusive, and packed with amenities, a behave how you please. “You can have
one too many drinks and leave your
new class of supervillas is drawing travelers away tennis bracelet, sandals, and Birkin by
from even the plushest of hotels and resorts. the pool, and you don’t have to worry
whether they will be there in the
morning,” he explains.

H
igh in the Costa Rican hills, Squatriglia, a Robb Report Travel Master. The luxury-rentals platform Le
a short drive from the surf “You don’t have to venture out if you Collectionist says it has added 70
mecca of Dominical, sits the don’t want to.” supervillas to its range of offerings in the
new Lamangata estate. The The emergence of this category past three years, many in hot spots such as
12,000-square-foot villa has is driven by a newfound focus on Ibiza, Tuscany, and Greece. What might
six ocean-facing suites, a teakwood yoga “celebration travel”: trips organized for keep the trend going are the converted
studio, a spa, an infinity pool with an milestone birthdays, family reunions, guests who now want to build supervillas
Olympic-size swim lane, and even a grove and the like. Accordingly, most supervillas themselves. One of Jackson’s clients
of fruit trees to supply its kitchens. have at least six bedrooms and sit on “stayed in a few and asked me, ‘Where
This oversize, over-the-top property— ample plots of privacy-enhancing land— can I build my own?’” he says. They’re
yours for $80,000 a week—is emblematic which also makes it easier to outfit them With its name derived now considering a ranch-style property in
of a growing travel trend: the supervilla. with hotel-style facilities. “They’re built from the Swedish term a rugged, horse-friendly location, though
These lavish lodges are larger and more for hospitality, not necessarily as homes,” mångata, describing an exact setting hasn’t been selected.
the moon’s road-like
amenity-rich than a typical luxury says Kevin Jackson of EXP Journeys, “We’re in the process of deciding right
reflection on the ocean,
vacation rental but smaller than a another Travel Master, who has booked Lamangata was designed now.” Until your own vision takes shape,
boutique hotel. “It’s your own resort five supervilla vacations for clients this to harmonize with its these rarefied retreats offer a taste of
that you never have to leave,” says Jason year. The appeal is understandable: natural surroundings. what’s possible. Mark Ellwood
 E
THE TERRACES, Mustique
This nine-bedroom hilltop
villa was built for advertising
legend Mary Wells Lawrence
in the 1980s, but more recent
additions have turned it into
a uniquely lush getaway. Its
17-acre plot features three
pools, a guest cottage, and
a stand-alone entertainment
building with its own cinema,
billiards room, and bar.
From $150,000 per week

E
BIGHORN LODGE, British Columbia
If you want to go straight from your chopper to the slopes, try this
eight-bedroom superchalet in the heart of Revelstoke, Canada’s
ski country. It has 15,000 square feet of living space; its own
helipad for easy arrival, departure, and heliskiing; and, crucially,
a cocktail bar for après-ski unwinding. From $90,000 per week

E
VILLA COACHELLA,
Saint-Tropez
“If someone could build some
more [villas] in Saint-Tropez,
they would be worth their
weight in gold,” Squatriglia
E

VILLA AVELLANA, Costa Rica jokes of the in-demand hot

spot. This standout nine-
The 33,000-square-foot home has its own private park and bedroom retreat is only a
beachfront, as well as a 42-foot yacht to cruise the waters off five-minute drive from the
Peninsula Papagayo. Its large communal areas are one reason Jackson city center, but you might not
recommends it to clients. During a recent multigenerational trip, “the want to leave: It’s served by
principal, his mother, his wife’s family, they were all enjoying it at their a 24/7 concierge team and
leisure—they felt free,” he says. From $182,000 per week has a private vineyard.
From about $80,000 per week
BIGHORN: DANIEL STEWART; VILLA AVELLANA: ANDRES G ARCIA LACHNER.

E
LA DATCHA,
Cabo San Lucas
Jackson calls this “massive
home tucked into the cliff
right there on a beautiful
beach” one of his favorites—
but its 10 bedrooms, spa,
and full-time personal trainer
aren’t the biggest draws. You
can spend a week aboard its
namesake expedition yacht
for an extra $1 million.
From $245,000 per week

THE GOODS
T R AV E L SEPTEMBER 2025 51
Little Legends
Hedley Studios turns automotive icons into diminutive, drivable replicas—
playful, powerful, and personalized down to the last hand-painted detail.

it all started with a dent in a Hedley began importing go-karts from impression. His solution? Scale the cars
Bugatti chassis. Asia modeled after classic cars. That’s to 75 percent of full size. “When Bugatti
Ben Hedley had been car-obsessed when a friend at Bugatti asked if he’d came along, they said, ‘I thought you
since childhood—so much so that, as an be interested in a side project: creating were making a toy, but you made a little
undergrad at Cambridge, he managed replicas of the Bugatti Baby. car,’” he recalls. “I was looking to make
to keep a car on campus despite a Originally built in the 1920s by an accurate reinterpretation of the thing
university ban. “I justified it as being founder Ettore Bugatti for his 4-year- that adults could enjoy and that Ettore
part of the windsurfing club,” he says old son, Roland, the pint-size electric would approve of.”
of the old, rusted MGB roadster car soon became a hit among family That prototype sparked what
he’d rebuilt. “[It] broke down every friends, resulting in a limited run of 500. You can became the Little Car Company—now
10 yards.” Still, a traditional path into But not all of these models were used customize the known as Hedley Studios—a thriving
the automotive industry didn’t appeal. by children. Hedley noticed a recurring color of any business dedicated to crafting what
“They let you design window wipers dent behind the driver’s seat in the Hedley replica he proudly calls drivable art. The firm
to your exact,
for six years, then you get a door mirror originals—a telltale sign that adults had and exacting,
collaborates directly with marques
all of your own,” he jokes. Instead, tried to climb in, leaving a permanent specifications. such as Aston Martin, Bentley, Bugatti,

52
 Robb Report will
receive commission
from items purchased
from The Vault. All
sales are conducted
by independent
merchants.

and Ferrari to build scaled re-creations

of iconic cars. Each is produced in
ultra-limited numbers and offers deep
levels of customization. “A lot of car
companies have to be cautious and
careful with their brand,” he says. “But
what we’re allowed to do is act like a
naughty little brother.”
Now, through this exclusive Vault
experience, you can join the mischief.
You’ll work directly with Hedley and
his team to design your own one-of-
a-kind collectible, complete with an
official chassis plate from the original
automaker. Choose from reimagined
legends like the Bugatti Baby II, Aston
Martin DB5 J, Ferrari Testa Rossa J, or
Bentley Blower Jnr. Every one has its
own character—whether it’s the Bond-
inspired Aston, with simulated Gatling
guns and a license plate that plays the
007 theme, or the Bentley Blower Jnr,
based on the 1929 4.5-liter Team Car
No. 2 and engineered as the brand’s first
road-legal scaled re-creation car.
Because the company is small, the
customization possibilities are virtually now sits beside a picture window with Tower Bridge, a wine-paired tasting
endless. One client brought in her sweeping views of Central Park. “We menu at its restaurant Mei Ume, and
favorite bubblegum-pink handbag; the had to make sure the hand brake was helicopter transfer to Hedley Studios
team scanned it to match the car’s paint pretty good, so he doesn’t drive it out of HQ. A few months later, you’ll return
exactly. Another commissioned an all- the window,” Hedley jokes, adding, “No, to Oxfordshire to get behind the wheel
white model, then handed it off to an we disconnected the power.” of your completed car—wearing your
artist for four days of hand-painting. A As part of this unique experience, custom driving gloves, of course.
third requested a Bentley with a built-in you’ll spend time with Hedley himself, “One of our great testing routes for the
surfboard rack. But perhaps no order hearing stories like these during a one- Bentley Blower Jnr is to Soho Farmhouse,”
topped the one from a New Yorker on-one design consultation. Together, Hedley says. “[It’s] a beautiful drive
living on the 76th floor of a Manhattan you’ll customize every detail—from through the countryside. And we can stop
skyscraper: To ensure the car could colors to materials to hand-painted at a nice English pub—for a nonalcoholic
be delivered, Hedley’s team built a initials—of your motoring masterpiece. beverage.” Mark Ellwood
replica of the building’s elevator in their The package includes a night at
Oxfordshire HQ. The finished vehicle the Four Seasons Hotel London at $ 3 5 2,0 0 0

53
 THE ANSWERS
with . . .

Chris
Collins
As a premed student at the University of Maine, Chris Collins had every intention
of working in health care. The Paterson, N.J., native envisioned a future as a
physical therapist or a psychologist—but a chance encounter with a modeling
scout changed his trajectory dramatically. “You know the saying,” the 50-year-old
quips. “If you want to make God laugh, tell him your plans.”
After graduating in 1996, he moved to New York City and landed a dream gig
as an in-house model for Ralph Lauren. For nearly 20 years, Collins appeared
regularly in campaigns for the American designer’s clothing, which inevitably
exposed him to the wider world of luxury. A friendship with Kilian Hennessy
of the eponymous perfume house motivated Collins to create his own collection
of high-end scents in 2018. Bergdorf Goodman and Neiman Marcus began stock-
ing World of Chris Collins in short order, and in 2021, it became the first Black-
owned fragrance brand sold at Sephora, a major achievement for a niche label.
Its sophisticated, long-lasting aromas—with names like Lust, Sweet Taboo, and
Long Kiss Goodnight—are uniquely sensual, because, he says, “I want people to
feel comfortable in accepting their playful, dark side.” Here, Collins shares what
else inspires his creative output. JUSTIN FENNER

What’s the first thing you do when you wake up in the morning?
1 I’m an early riser. I’m up at like 4 a.m., 4:30 a.m. I take a minute and
After the Greek pause and figure out what I need to do that day, take a breath, and get out
isles, the Croatian of bed around 5 a.m.
archipelago is the
second-largest
chain in the What do you crave most at the end of the day?
Mediterranean
region. But only A nice glass of red wine relaxes me. I don’t drink a lot, but that’s my wind
49 of its 1,244 down: catching up over what happened during the day over a glass of
formations are
inhabited. wine. I like Cabernets, Malbec, Shiraz—I like a nice, bold red.

What have you done recently for the first time?

I sailed on a boat all around Croatia,1 visiting every single island, and
lived on the boat for an entire week, which was incredible.

What do you still do that’s analog?

I’m a big writer. I feel like it’s old-school, but my ritual is writing
down all of my thoughts, even if they don’t make sense. If an idea for a
2 fragrance comes into my head, I write it down.
While opinions
on who invented What in your wardrobe do you wear most often?
the mezcal
negroni differ, it’s A black tuxedo jacket. I’m a jeans, Chelsea boot, T-shirt, blazer guy, but
generally agreed [in the evenings] it’s a tuxedo jacket. I have multiple black ones because
that bartenders
began serving the if one is at the cleaners, I have to be able to wear one. I have one from
smoky variation Tom Ford, and Ralph Lauren, for sure.
on the classic gin
cocktail around
2009. What is your favorite cocktail, and how do you make it?
This summer, it’s been a mezcal negroni.2 I saw it on a menu earlier this
summer, and I was like, “Let me try this out.” h

54 THE FALL STYLE ISSUE

SEPTEMBER 2025 PHOTOGRAPHED BY Chandler Bondurant
 Collins in his Harlem
home and atelier

THE FALL STYLE ISSUE

T H E A N SW E R S SEPTEMBER 2025 55
 What’s the most recent thing you’ve added to your collection?
I’m a huge watch guy. So for my 50th birthday, which was last
November, I got myself an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. They call it
the Cubano because it has a tobacco-colored leather band. 3
The highly
Are you wearing a watch? How many do you have in your coveted Rolex
collection? Submariner Ref.
16610LV, released
I’m wearing my Kermit.3 I think this was the 50th-anniversary Rolex for the model’s
50th anniversary,
Submariner. I have seven in my collection. I got the A.P. I have a few earned its
Rolexes—I have a stainless-steel Daytona—and a Panerai. nickname thanks
to its bright-green
aluminum bezel.
Who is your dealer, and what do they source for you?
I don’t have a dealer, I’m the dealer! [Laughs.] I guess my dealer is my
fragrance house, which provides me all the fragrances I need and new
recipes to launch.

What is your exercise routine, and how often do you do it?

I just picked up doing Pilates—reformer Pilates. I was a little hesitant,
because I thought it wasn’t, like, a “boy sport.”4 My first class kicked
my ass, and now I’m addicted to it. I try to do it at least once or twice
a week.

What does success look like to you? 4

Over the past
Success, to me, is fulfillment. A lot of times, I’m so busy trying to several years,
hit the next mark that I very seldom just stop for a second and say, more men have
begun practicing
“You know, Chris, you’re doing a pretty good job.” To be able to Pilates, a
acknowledge what I’ve done—that, to me, is success. form of body
conditioning long
seen as feminine.
If you could learn a new skill, what would it be? Ironically, it
I always love the violin when I hear it. I would love to learn how to was developed
by German
play the violin, or the cello, or some string instrument. bodybuilder and
gymnast Joseph
Drive or be driven? H. Pilates to
rehabilitate injured
At the moment, drive. I just got myself a little Maserati, a 2024 soldiers and
prisoners during
Grecale. People say it’s my midlife-crisis car. But eventually I want to World War I.
be driven.

What car are you most attached to?

My everyday car, which is a Range Rover. I’ve always got boxes [of
fragrances] in there.

When was the last time you completely unplugged?

I don’t remember, because I feel like if I completely unplug, I’m more
anxious. So, what I do is I accept that, and I take whatever amount of
time I need to do [the work] I need to do—even if I’m on vacation—
Clockwise from and then I can relax.
top: Collins at
home; Savant, What’s your favorite hotel?
his newest scent;
custom mouillettes
Hôtel Costes in Paris. Even if I’m not staying there, I always go there 5
(fragrance-testing for a drink. It smells so good.5 The signature
papers); a neon scent of the
sign that greets What’s the last piece of advice you gave? Hôtel Costes,
developed by
visitors; watches To start. Whatever it is [that you want to do], my advice is always to perfumer Olivia
from Collins’s Giacobetti in 2001,
collection.
start. Don’t wait. You have to start somewhere. You have to make the was designed
energy kinetic. You have to move forward, because if you don’t, the to evoke the
patina of antique
ideas will just go away. furniture. With
notes of waxed
The last piece of advice you were given? wood, paprika,
and bitter-orange
The most precious thing you have is your time, so protect it. peel, it is available
in a room spray
Last streaming binge? and a scented
candle.
The White Lotus. I watched the entire season in one day, right up until
the finale came on.

What sort of music makes you happy?

Opera. I may not understand a single word, but it just makes me feel at
peace. I’m constantly listening to Dante. There’s a song called “Vide Cor
Meum,” which I named a fragrance after, and I listen to that a lot. O

56 THE FALL STYLE ISSUE

SEPTEMBER 2025 T H E A N SW E R S
 CELEBRATING THE
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for Cold Brew, sweet, and hot coffee specialties.
 DOMAIN WHERE DESIGN LIVES

Fringe
Benefits
Forget the heavy corded
details on outdated
antiques—a new approach
to decorative threads is
taking the leading edge.

Light Object N° 23 B,
Sander Bottinga

OBJECTIFIED 59
 E
Light Object N° 23 B,
Sander Bottinga
When it comes to bright
lights, few pieces shine
as boldly—literally and
stylistically—as Sander
Bottinga’s N° Light Object
collection. Consisting
of a floor lamp and wall
sconces, the grouping of

E
handmade brass, leather,
and wood luminaires also Garanhão, Jessica Gersten
drips with dip-dyed fringe Curving like a perfectly folded section of old-fashioned
in lieu of shades; each ribbon candy, Jessica Gersten’s Garanhão lounge chair is a
comes in a colorful ombré refreshingly bold spin on seating. Made by artisans in northern
scheme ranging from hot Portugal and available exclusively through StudioTwentySeven,
bubblegum pink to canary the undulating chair comes in three upholstery options: cream
yellow. $981 linen (seen here), brown alpaca, and black alpaca. Each version
is with trimmed horsehair fringe—that trails behind it on the
floor—bringing a thrilling sense of wildness to the home. $8,600
E

Brush, Calen Knauf Studio

A cheeky wink at utilitarianism, the Brush table by
Vancouver designer Calen Knauf embraces the tough
side of fringe. Made with a waxed-ash-wood top and
bundles of hand-cut-and-glued bamboo bristles, the
E
E

table is intended to create initial puzzlement: Is that a Naga, Ashiesh Shah “25” Paravent, Natalia Jaime Cortez
skirt concealing standard legs? Further investigation
Debuted in January at This month, Parisian art gallerist Amélie du Chalard is launching a
reveals that the bamboo bristles are dense enough to
Paris Design Week, the guest curator series at her SoHo showroom, with designer Kelly
support the weight of an adult. Brush comes in three
Naga bench is a standout Behun stepping into the inaugural role. Behun will transform the
sizes, and its Shaker-adjacent design is simple enough
in Mumbai-based designer gallery, bringing in a medley of 70 works (some new commissions,
to incorporate into any room. From $1,898
and architect Ashiesh some existing), including the “25” Paravent screen by French artisan
Shah’s most recent Natalia Jaime Cortez. The piece, which stands more than six feet
furniture collection. tall, is made with ink on paper, and its long panels end in jagged
Handcrafted in India, the edges that layer and drape like seaweed. $38,000
piece features a bronzed-
cast-aluminum frame and
a “Naga raincoat”—details
modeled after traditional
elephant-grass garments
used as shields against
inclement weather in
eastern parts of the
country. While the bench
itself is simple—thin legs,
an upholstered seat, and
a curved back—the added
textured cloak kicks up the
drama to conversation-
worthy levels. From $6,315

60 DOMAIN
SEPTEMBER 2025 OBJECTIFIED
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 DESIGN

The Space(s) Between

In the online era, design brands are rethinking how customers
experience their wares in real life.

I
n the design world, the in-between artwork during an overnight stay in an Wisconsin, he has constructed an entirely
spaces—those that are neither architectural masterpiece. In a moment new type of experience that allows
strictly private nor purely public— when the digital sphere has made visitors to inhabit his artistic universe.
are having a moment. These everything endlessly scrollable, these “This was an opportunity to create
“third” spaces, as sociologists once environments offer the opposite: They something that was all-encompassing,”
called the cafés, clubs, and libraries that ask visitors to slow down, to physically says Arsham, whose work has been
offered community beyond home and engage, and to deepen their connection featured in museums around the world,
work, have been reimagined by brands as with a brand. They invite you not just to such as the Centre Pompidou in Paris and
immersive extensions of their identities. shop, but to dwell on the way a sofa holds MoMA PS1 in New York City. This two-
Today, a growing number of design you during a long conversation, or on bedroom retreat, which overlooks Lake
Above: The historic Palm
houses and galleries are creating locales Desert Wave House, how a sculpture catches your eye while Michigan, is a living, breathing showcase
that are part showroom, part salon, and originally designed as a you pour a glass of wine. They remind us for his work, including pieces from his
part cultural venue, where products are studio for artist Miles C. that design consists of not just objects, Landshapes collection with Kohler—a
not just displayed, but also lived with and Bates, is now a vacation but entire worlds. collaboration that highlights how art can
rental outfitted by Design
celebrated in new ways. Within Reach. To add
Here, we profile a few of the brands be integrated into the rituals of daily life.
A traditional store or studio will show extra flair, the brand and designers doing it best. John Wogan The cabin is full of Arsham’s touches,
you the shape of a chair and provide an partnered with British including bathroom tiles made of
opportunity for a brief sit test. But a third designer Paul Smith, ARSHAM CABIN, Kohler, Wisconsin recycled material and amorphous glass
whose collaborative
space lets you get a feel for it as you eat furniture collection
The artist Daniel Arsham is no stranger sconces that appear to billow like fabric.
dinner and chat with friends or try out includes dapper stripes, to blending disciplines. Still, with a guest “I approached the design of the house
a bed while becoming familiar with an dots, and plaids. cabin he designed at the Kohler resort in as something I would want to live in

62 DOMAIN
SEPTEMBER 2025 DESIGN
 or spend time in,” he explains, and that painting virtually,” Lissoni says,
sensibility infuses the entire property, emphasizing the importance of real
with its art-filled living areas and Zen encounters with art. “Right now, all
garden dotted with his large-scale bronze companies need to tell their stories in
sculptures. The cabin’s setting, next to new ways. They need to communicate
the property’s famed golf course, also both the most complex and the most
informed Arsham’s work on the project. noble aspects of what they do.”
“I’ve always thought of golf courses as
these kinds of massive earth artworks. THE FUTURE PERFECT’S GOLDWYN HOUSE,
Somebody sculpting the landscape. Los Angeles
Having the cabin adjacent to that builds Step through the gates of Goldwyn House
on this larger narrative around art as a and you will see Los Angeles in an
part of everyday life.” entirely different way. Here, Old
Hollywood and contemporary design
CASA SANLORENZO, Venice share the same living rooms, bedrooms,
For luxury-yacht brand Sanlorenzo, the and gardens. Built in 1916 by architect
transition from sea to land was natural. Arthur S. Heineman and once home to
Having already engaged with the art seminal film producer Samuel Goldwyn,
world for years (showing works by the mansion now serves as a residential
legends such as Lucio Fontana and concept space for contemporary-design
Alberto Burri aboard its vessels), the gallery the Future Perfect. It is also the
shipbuilder sought a permanent home to primary home to its founder, David
host its cultural offerings. The result is Alhadeff, and his family, who, while
Casa Sanlorenzo: a 1940s Venetian designing the space, placed importance
mansion reimagined by architect and on maintaining its architectural character.
designer Piero Lissoni, strategically “The moldings, the proportions, the quiet
located between the Peggy Guggenheim Rather than imposing a new architectural grandeur—it was too special to erase,”
Collection and Punta della Dogana. “The identity, Lissoni aimed to be “as silent as Alhadeff says. “Rather than impose a new
idea was born to create a dedicated venue possible,” preserving historical elements vision, we chose to listen to the house and
where Sanlorenzo can talk about art, including brick facades and original build upon what was already there.”
design, architecture, or literature in a flooring while introducing contemporary That dialogue between past and
completely autonomous way,” explains touches, such as a transparent-glass present plays out across its sunlit rooms
Lissoni, who is based in Milan. staircase. The design creates a space that and into the spacious backyard, where
The building’s relative modernity feels both historic and modern, sculptures and site-specific commissions
(a rarity in Venice) and open floor plan underscoring Sanlorenzo’s belief that extend the curatorial voice outdoors.
made it ideal for his vision. “I was able to industry is culture and offering visitors a Inside, works by Casey McCafferty, John
treat it with the purity that I believe a tangible, in-person experience beyond the Hogan, Seungjin Yang, and others have
space dedicated to art deserves,” he says. virtual. “You can’t truly experience a created a conversation with the original h

Above: Architect Piero

Lissoni’s careful
interventions at Casa
CASA SANLORENZO: FEDERICO CEDRONE

Sanlorenzo bring a
modern sensibility to the
1940s Venetian mansion
the brand uses for
showing art and hosting
events. Left: A waterfront
cabin designed by
artist Daniel Arsham
at the Kohler resort in
Wisconsin features a
Zen garden and bronze
sculptures.

DOMAIN
DESIGN SEPTEMBER 2025 63
design in ways that can feel pleasantly and inspiring destination that could
subversive. And when the gallery closes in spark imagination as well as provide a
the evening, the house returns to being a stunning setting for gathering.”
home. “Seeing a piece in a lived-in space Wave House is the company’s first
makes it tangible,” says Alhadeff. “It rental property, and it collaborated with
becomes part of a story, not just an object. fashion designer Paul Smith to outfit the
The Goldwyn House isn’t just a place to interior furnishings in the brand’s textile
see work. It’s a place to feel something.” collection, which has warm hues and
tailored patterns that feel ideal for the
DESIGN WITHIN REACH WAVE HOUSE, desert light. “The organic color palette
Palm Desert, California of the region naturally complements the
Walter S. White’s 1955 Wave House warm hues and refined patterns of Sir
ripples against the Southern California Paul Smith’s textiles,” Nobil says. “That
desert landscape like a mirage. After was actually why we looked to activate it
experiencing many years of neglect, in Palm Desert.”
the residence was acquired in 2018 by Guests are encouraged to live fully
Los Angeles–based Stayner Architects in the space, where morning coffee
and eventually furnished by modern- brews in a Hay French press, poolside
housewares brand Design Within Reach. afternoons are spent on Oliver James
In 2020, this dreamy escape debuted floats, and alfresco dinners happen amid
as a vacation rental—the result of a DWR’s Terassi outdoor teak furniture
collaboration with Boutique, a travel (all of which, naturally, is for sale).
company that offers a collection of “The rental home simply provides an
vacation homes for design enthusiasts. opportunity to step into our world versus
Once a creative refuge for artist Miles C. looking at it on a page,” says Debbie
Bates, the house was designed to match Propst, president of global retail at
the rhythm of Bates’s life and became MillerKnoll. “That is the ethos of DWR,”
part creative sanctuary, part social hub. adds Nobil. “Modern design for a life
“The intention of the rental home was well lived.”
just that,” says Omar Nobil, DWR’s
creative director, noting that they wanted THE MANZONI, Milan
to offer “a quiet, thoughtfully curated, A mélange of social spaces—restaurant,
showroom, and European headquarters
for London-based Tom Dixon—the
Manzoni is the designer’s vision of
a place where every chair, glass, and
candleholder around you can be yours.
“Showroom shops tend to be quite
dusty, cold, and slow-moving in terms
of retail interaction, but the Manzoni
is alive,” Dixon says. Opened in 2019,
steps from the famed La Scala opera
house, it’s one of the first third-space
concepts, a venture Dixon tried after
years of showing at the annual Salone
del Mobile design fair. Rather than
spending its marketing budget on five
days in Milan, the company asked,
“What could we have that would be
a worthy investment?” The answer
was this ultra-flexible hybrid space.
Dixon notes of his special interest in
restaurants: “In Italy, the best decisions
happen at lunchtime.”
Merging dining and design offers
more product interaction than the static
Above: Tom Dixon’s
multipurpose space, the and leisurely pace of traditional furniture
Manzoni, functions as a retail. According to Dixon, in a typical
restaurant, showroom, showroom, it could be decades before
and headquarters a customer comes in a second time. “By
that allows visitors
to experience the
contrast, restaurants are dynamic, living
brand’s wares as they organisms,” he explains of the spaces
would at home. Left: constantly humming with activity.
An installation by “People come back over and over. That
artist MyungJin Kim
in the pool house at
vibrancy makes them more relevant to
the Future Perfect’s how we want people to experience our
Goldwyn House. products.” O

64 DOMAIN
SEPTEMBER 2025 DESIGN
 SCORPION
THE UR-150
and its 240° retrograde minute

W W W. U R W E R K . C O M
display with wandering satellite hours
in life and so you should have something on your watch,
something exciting, thrilling and engaging to represent it.” Master watchmaker Artist and Chief designer
 GENIUS AT WORK

Throwback to the Future

Lunaz painstakingly transforms some of the U.K.’s finest
classic cars into E.V.s built for the road ahead.
B Y B RYA N H O O D

after over a decade of running a

members’ club in Mayfair, David Lorenz
grew tired of the hospitality world.
The avowed classic-car lover had long
wondered if a pivot to the automotive space
was for him—and in 2018, he had a eureka
moment. As he watched Prince Harry
and Meghan, Duchess of Sussex, leave
their wedding in a 1960s Jaguar E-Type
converted to run on electricity, he was
taken by its marriage of timeless beauty
and modern drivability.
“I thought it merged those worlds
beautifully and got fixated on it,” he tells
Robb Report.
Classic cars tend to look much better
than they drive. With his new company,
Lunaz (named for his daughter Luna), Lorenz
sought to solve that issue by updating some
of Britain’s most iconic vehicles with
contemporary components and an electric
drivetrain. He spent the next year getting the
nascent company off the ground, eventually
partnering with ex–Renault Formula 1
technical director Jon Hilton. They released
their first conversion, a seven-seat Rolls-
Royce Phantom limousine, in 2020.
Since then, they’ve rolled out nearly 50
cars, each an overhauled model from one of
five revered luxury marques (Aston Martin,
Bentley, Jaguar, and Range Rover, in addition
to Rolls-Royce). Among them was a highlight
of another “royal” wedding day: the Jaguar
XK140 that David Beckham—one of Lunaz’s
investors—bought to celebrate his son
Brooklyn’s marriage to Nicola Peltz in 2022.
All this despite the nay-saying of classic-car
purists. (“People did not like it at first,”
Lorenz says. “There’s no nice way to describe
it.”) Still, others have been happy to pay the
cost of revitalizing these vehicles for the 21st
century, which can set you back anywhere
from $600,000 to well over $1 million. One
customer, Italian entrepreneur Andy
Bianchedi, commissioned a Rolls-Royce
Cloud, shown on these pages, which starts
at about $870,000. The green and cream
result doesn’t drive anything like the 1956
Silver Cloud I it’s based on, but it’s filled
with handmade customizations the original
builders would surely be proud of.

68 THE FALL STYLE ISSUE

SEPTEMBER 2025 G E N I U S AT WO R K
ABOVE

1 Lunaz doesn’t simply replace a classic

engine with generic components.
Lorenz and Hilton spent two and a half
years developing fixed platforms for each LEFT
of the five marques their workshop
2 Bianchedi came to Lunaz the
converts. This built-to-order hardware—
old-fashioned way: online. The
which consists of the electric motors,
businessman first saw a Lunaz
battery packs, brakes, and suspension—
electric Phantom on social media.
provides the backbone for each E.V. that
The company usually helps clients
leaves the company’s production facility in
pick a model before acquiring a
Silverstone, England.
donor vehicle (although it can
overhaul ones from your collection).
Fortunately for Bianchedi, it was
already converting a 1956 Silver
Cloud I that aligned with his taste.

RIGHT

Because the car becomes each buyer’s

3
individual canvas, deciding on all the
customizations—from wood paneling to
upholstery to paint color—can take over three
weeks. Bianchedi wanted a stylish car that he
could smoke cigars in. “Most people come to
us wanting to experience the journey of
making something truly bespoke and truly
unique,” Lorenz says. h

69
THE FALL STYLE ISSUE
G E N I U S AT WO R K SEPTEMBER 2025
 LEFT

4 Typical Lunaz conversions are over

60 years old—plenty of time for scars to
accumulate—so craftspeople must carefully strip
each car down to its core elements in a process
that can last up to three weeks. “When you take
off all the paint and you shot blast it, sometimes
you see very little metal left in these cars,” Lorenz
explains. When such damage is repaired, the car
is dry built, a stage of at least 350 hours, in which
the car is reassembled to ensure that everything
fits just right.

RIGHT (TOP)

5 When the components are fitted, the car is

hand-painted with a high-powered spray
gun. “I’ve actually had the same person paint
pretty much every one of our cars,” Lorenz says.
“He’s fantastic. It really is an art in itself.” Once the
paint is dry, the chrome trim is applied. Because
chrome plating is tightly restricted in the U.K.,
producing these accents is one of the few
processes Lunaz outsources.

RIGHT (BOTTOM)

Conversions are assembled in much the

6
same way as the traditional automobiles
they are based on. The difference is in the
components that are used, especially those that
comprise the E.V. platform, such as the dual-
motor power train. Unlike most other E.V. tuners,
Lunaz designs and manufactures its own battery
packs; the power-distribution unit and the
electronic-control unit that manages the vehicle’s
new systems are also added at this stage.
Assembly time can vary, but a car like the Cloud
requires anywhere from 1,500 to 2,500 hours. h

70 THE FALL STYLE ISSUE

SEPTEMBER 2025 G E N I U S AT WO R K
 ABOVE BELOW (LEFT) BELOW (RIGHT)

Each delivery, like the car itself, is

7 The final step is also one of the 8 Lunaz tests each of its vehicles before 9
longest. The Lunaz teams spend delivery to ensure its roadworthiness. tailored to the individual. Lunaz has
between three and five months crafting and “There are a lot of moving components tied this moment to a special event; some
applying the finishing touches. Trimming in that vehicle that have been put together, of its cars have been presented at the
Bianchedi’s Cloud fell on the higher end of and we want to make sure everything is Goodwood Festival of Speed. The company
that spectrum. Its bespoke elements perfect,” Lorenz says. Each conversion will also typically produce a complementary
include a small humidor that holds six covers at least 500 miles before being accessory or art piece. For Bianchedi, that
Cubans and magnetized wooden ashtrays handed over to the client. meant a 200-cigar humidor crafted from an
that won’t slide off the rear tray tables, old Hermès suitcase for the trunk. O
even during sharp turns.

72 THE FALL STYLE ISSUE

SEPTEMBER 2025 G E N I U S AT WO R K
K I S S T H E S K Y.

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DREAM MACHINES
A DEVOTION TO MOTION

Prancing God
Behind the wheel of the 1,184 hp Ferrari F80 hybrid,
we discover a halo car that exceeds its hype.

76 DREAM MACHINES
SEPTEMBER 2025
LORENZO MARCINNÒ

Examples of the new

Ferrari F80, starting at
$3.73 million, await track
time at Italy’s 2.62-mile
Misano circuit.

77
DREAM MACHINES
SEPTEMBER 2025
 the factory in history and distills everything
the marque has learned in nearly 80 years.
The proof, as always, is how it feels on the
road—as if every insight and innovation is
seamlessly deployed.
Developed alongside Ferrari’s
endurance-focused 499P—which makes
Like a brilliant comet, a true supercar 670 hp and recently won its third
from Maranello—such as the new Ferrari consecutive 24 Hours of Le Mans—the F80
F80—appears very rarely, but when required a few more years of R&D. As the
it does, the automotive world can’t automaker points out, it’s easier to build
look away. The luminous F40 debuted a car for motorsport than for the market.
in 1987, followed by the F50 in 1995, Like the 499P and the 296 GTB, the F80
the otherworldly Enzo in 2002, the carries a compact 3.0-liter 120-degree V-6.
eponymous LaFerrari in 2013, and now, But unlike the others—or any production
arriving in early 2026, the inimitable F80. From top: The F80 is car apart from the Porsche 911 GTS—it
To call this 1,184 hp street-legal fit with a power train uses energy derived from the battery to
developed alongside
Prancing Horse magnificent feels like that found in Ferrari’s
power two massive electric turbochargers
an understatement. In two decades of Le Mans–winning spinning at 160,000 rpm. Supplementing
professional driving, I’ve never piloted 499P hypercar; a the engine’s 888 hp are three electric
anything so sublimely capable of devouring bird’s-eye perspective motors—one located on the left cylinder
on aerodynamics
pavement; it borders on menacing. That’s bank and two at the front axle.
contributing to
no surprise, given that it unleashes more 2,314 pounds of Straight-line performance is
power than any road-going Ferrari to leave total downforce. staggering: zero to 125 mph in a claimed

78 DREAM MACHINES
SEPTEMBER 2025 WHEELS
 Left: With a top speed
of 217 mph, the car
accelerates from zero to
60 mph in 2.0 seconds.
Below: Introduced with
the F80, the new steering
wheel will make its way
into future production
models.

5.3 seconds, and zero to 60 in a mere 2.0. may sound strange that the car doesn’t
Launch control is a wild ride, equal parts lean or compress, but when cornering at
fun and brutal, as all that boost sends the these velocities, even slight changes in
V-6 screaming. Driving the F80 quickly downforce would be disruptive.
and efficiently means tracking the shift Plenty of modern hypercars are
It’s safe to say
lights atop the steering wheel: After seven absurdly quick, but few offer this level
red lights, two final blue flash near the of control: It invites, even demands, that it drives
9,000 rpm mark—your cue to pull the that you attack a road or a circuit with better than
upshift paddle. Miss it and you’ll bump total confidence—and attack is the right
into the rev limiter at 9,200 rpm. word. I’ve driven the Valkyrie, which anything
After taking five handwritten struggles with low-speed stability, I’ve ever
pages of notes on the aerodynamics, I and Rhys Millen’s 2021 Bentley GT3
feel confident saying that aside from Pikes Peak car, which shares similar
experienced.
the Aston Martin Valkyrie, nothing aerodynamics but lacks the same power.
harnesses the wind like this Ferrari. It Both require aggression, but the F80 is
produces 1,014 pounds of downforce in another league. Simply put, it’s safe to
on the front axle and 1,300 on the rear say that it drives better than anything I’ve
at 155 mph—a speed I approached ever experienced.
repeatedly while lapping Italy’s 2.62- The only disconcerting thought: I may
LORENZO MARCINNÒ

mile Misano circuit. To ensure that the never drive it again. And unless you’re
F80’s aero performance stays consistent, already among Ferrari’s most favored few,
four 48-volt active dampers complete a you likely won’t either—all 799 examples
cycle every 25 milliseconds to maintain have been presold starting at $3.73 million
ride height and prevent body roll. It apiece. Jonny Lieberman

79
DREAM MACHINES
WHEELS SEPTEMBER 2025
Huracán, Who?
Replacing the Raging Bull’s game-changing model line, the new
907 hp Temerario hybrid delivers plenty of finely tuned fight.

A
s I push off with my greater expectations: It succeeds the
right foot, the surge is beloved Huracán, a model line that earned
instant. Here, at one of Robb Report’s Car of the Year title four
Portugal’s revered proving times between 2017 and 2021.
grounds, that split- Soon after the first turn out of the pit
second commitment unleashes a wave of lane, it’s clear that the aluminum-bodied
momentum that feels endless. But this Temerario—built on an innovative new
isn’t Praia do Norte, home to some of the aluminum spaceframe chassis—uses the
world’s biggest surf—it’s the main straight Huracán’s legacy as only a launchpad.
at Estoril, a former Formula 1 gauntlet Gone is the naturally aspirated V-10,
near Lisbon. And my sled is the 907 hp replaced by a 4.0-liter twin-turbo V-8
2026 Lamborghini Temerario. that tops out at 10,000 rpm and delivers
The latest Raging Bull, starting at 538 ft lbs of torque.
$382,654, is the third plug-in hybrid The gas engine is mated to an eight-
from Sant’Agata Bolognese, following the speed dual-clutch transmission and a
1,001 hp Revuelto and the 789 hp Urus 3.8 kWh battery that juices three electric
SE S.U.V. But the Temerario carries even motors: one set between the engine and h

80 DREAM MACHINES
SEPTEMBER 2025 WHEELS
 JANUARY 15 - 18, 2026

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gearbox to reduce turbo lag and two including Città, Strada, Sport, Corsa,
at the front axle for added propulsion. and the new Corsa Plus. A three-level
The result? A claimed top speed of Drift Mode even lets you explore varying
213 mph and a zero-to-62 mph sprint degrees of low-grip abandon—level two
of just 2.7 seconds in Launch Control. sent me immediately into a spin during
Despite adding 485 pounds compared early drills.
to the already hefty Huracán Sterrato, the Despite its ferocity, the Temerario
Temerario stays extremely agile. That’s is among the most approachable
due largely to smart weight distribution— Lamborghinis to date, second only to the
the gearbox mounted behind the engine, Urus in everyday functionality. A roomier
the battery centered—which keeps the cockpit adds 1.3 inches of headroom and
wheelbase only 1.49 inches longer than 1.8 inches of legroom, while a seven-
its predecessor’s. speaker Sonus faber sound system may
The example I’m piloting features the even impress audio snobs. On the flip side,
optional Alleggerita lightweighting package, track fiends can opt for three onboard
which includes ubiquitous carbon fiber and cameras and Lamborghini’s Telemetry 2.0
helps deliver 158 percent more downforce app, which captures and analyzes video
than that of the Huracán Evo. As Estoril’s and performance data from lap sessions.
long Parabolica Ayrton Senna opens up to Orders are now open, with U.S.
the .61-mile straightaway, rapid upshifts at deliveries expected in 2026. As for
redline end at fifth gear and 184 mph before potential pricing concerns amid
I’m forced to brake hard. Thankfully, the U.S. tariffs? Stephan Winkelmann,
carbon-ceramic stoppers, biting on 21-inch Lamborghini’s chairman and C.E.O.,
wheels (20-inch at the front) wrapped in remains confident: “We have a clear
Bridgestone Potenza Sport rubber, can haul [price] positioning of the car,” he says.
the Temerario down from 62 mph to zero in “And we’re not going to change that.”
just 105 feet. Do I wish the car had active aero?
Along with its newfound muscle, the Yes. The sonic bombardment of a V-12?
Temerario flexes with 13 drive modes, Absolutely. And maybe an easier way
to avoid accidentally switching into
its underwhelming all-electric mode.
Previous page: Portugal’s room than in Huracán (Don’t ask me how I know.) But with
Estoril circuit was models; output of the Temerario, Lamborghini isn’t just
our showcase for the 789 hp is from the twin- entering the hybrid arena; it’s defining it.
Temerario’s hybrid turbo V-8 alone; the car
Surfing Praia do Norte may be beyond
power and athleticism. can reach 213 mph and
This page, from top: The cover zero to 62 mph me, but in Portugal, I still caught a
cockpit boasts more in 2.7 seconds. monster wave. Viju Mathew

82 DREAM MACHINES
SEPTEMBER 2025 WHEELS
WINGS
private-equity deal Ricci recently inked

Cabin Couture Takes Off

with the luxury giant. “Customers and
prospects, they love these interiors
because they’re fun,” says Ricci, who
also designed Flexjet’s new $50 million
The typically staid design of biz-jet living space headquarters. He adds that competitors
are beginning to offer more artistically
is getting a much-needed makeover. customized cabins as well.
Jet owners—from celebrities like Paris

D
Hilton (see page 88) to entrepreneurs—
espite the dominance of dark Emperador marble, and antiqued are embracing interiors that reflect their
grays, beiges, and off- metalwork offset neutral fabrics and muted personalities. Miami Beach–based Ibrahim
whites in private-jet cabins, veneers, evoking a theatrical sense of and Ryann Al-Rashid’s bold Praetor 600
there’s a new sense of sunrise. “We used cove and wash lighting cabin bucks the old adage that conservative
liberation in the air. Bright, in the ceiling’s circular motifs, as well as interiors bolster resale value. In fact, since
stylish, and bespoke interiors are gaining under-seat illumination, to create a layered, taking delivery, they’ve already received
altitude, thanks to designers long eager to almost cinematic feel,” Rodríguez says. several offers to buy the super midsize.
break from the corporate status quo. Other designers are bringing Ricci believes the pipeline of creativity
Natalie Rodríguez’s “Solrise” (pictured expressive style to smaller business jets. will only expand. In a recent design
above) is her vision for a BBJ 787-8, a As part of Flexjet’s Red Label series, the contest, Flexjet received more than 150
The stately decor,
Boeing Dreamliner variant used by heads ceiling, and bar featured
new “Volare” interior aboard a Gulfstream entries, including the winner, “Carolina,”
of state and V.V.I.P.s. For the 2,458-square- in Natalie Rodríguez’s G650 draws inspiration from the iconic focusing on a natural landscape, and
foot interior, the San Antonio–based “Solrise” concept reflect Riva yacht. According to Flexjet chair another interior inspired by Frank Lloyd
designer envisioned more of a five-star how designers are Kenn Ricci, the series also includes Wright’s architecture. “Any four or five
looking to create aircraft
hotel than a flying boardroom, complete interiors with a more
a Bentley-themed interior and will of [the top finalists] could’ve been the
with lounges, dining areas, a primary suite, personalized sense of eventually feature cabins influenced by winner,” he says. “There’s no shortage of
and a lavish bar. Olive and juniper accents, sanctuary. LVMH brands—part of an $800 million good ideas out there.” Michael Verdon

86 DREAM MACHINES
SEPTEMBER 2025 WINGS
Gulfstream G450 “Volare” Gulfstream G650 “Houndstooth”

The Gulfstream’s “Volare” interior (Italian for “to fly”) An oversize-houndstooth motif on the tail and
was born from Flexjet’s close relationship with Riva engine intakes of this Gulfstream—inspired by
Yachts. The stylized design evokes the glamour of the owner’s home decor—sets the tone for this
1960s-era Rivas with the use of mahogany and holly interior. Designer Sarah Mespelt Larrañaga echoed
for the wood panels, hand-stitched leather piping, the bold pattern in the cabin’s carpet, giving the space
and metallic trim. But aircraft weight limits required a whimsical Alice in Wonderland vibe. Intricate seat
techniques that hadn’t been used in private aviation. Flexjet sourced a machine that could stitching extends the theme throughout, adding depth and continuity. The exterior was
shave mahogany into ultrathin veneers, then steamed the wood into shape and finished it the project’s greatest challenge, according to Larrañaga; the tail art required multiple
with 17 coats of varnish to mirror the high-gloss luster of a classic Riva Aquarama. iterations before being hand-painted to get the desired look.

Embraer Praetor 600 Gulfstream G650 “Carolina”

With materials like Icicle Shimmer Fusion, Aeronappa This pastoral interior pays tribute to the 150-year-
Hawthorn, and TAJ Cowhide Blue Jewel, Ibrahim old Avenue of Oaks in Mount Pleasant, S.C., and
and Ryann Al-Rashid’s super midsize jet is anything was conceived by the father-and-son duo of
but traditional. Working closely with Embraer’s design Youngmin and Woojae Sohn—a professional designer
team, the Miami couple sifted through hundreds and an Embry-Riddle student. “The oaks on the rear
of color and fabric options before settling on a bulkhead were entirely hand-drawn to show the detail,”
contemporary aesthetic that didn’t date or bedazzle says Woojae, who hopes to become a U.S. Air Force
the cabin. The piéce de rèsistance is a navy-blue Cambria wool and silk carpet, with rose- pilot. Tree branches extend across the ceiling, the carpet suggests a flowing river,
gold stitching, meant to depict the Amazon rainforest morphing into a circuit board—the and the table is an abstract topographical map in this imaginative ode to the outdoors.
symbolic fusion of nature and technology. “We’d already gone through 30 different rug Dappled lighting, a tufted lounge, and muted-gold fabric at the rear of the executive
concepts, but they all seemed a little loud,” Ryann says. “This one had a beautiful pattern seats complete the concept. The calming design is slated for production as part of
that was also really impactful.” Flexjet’s Red Label fleet.

87
DREAM MACHINES
WINGS SEPTEMBER 2025
Hot Wings
Re-creating Paris Hilton’s signature style on her
G450 jet involved a complete renovation.

P
aris Hilton’s recently the floorboards, et cetera, we built
delivered Gulfstream G450 everything else new.”
bears her signature catch The well-preserved G450’s cabin
phrases, such as “That’s Hot” provided a blank canvas. “I thought they branding while retaining a practical
and “Loves It,” on the pink might want to dial [the interior] down to interior for traveling with the couple’s
and white exterior, along with her Sliv something with blues and grays and maybe young children. Larrañaga used more-

INTERIOR AND EX TERIOR: SAMI JO STUDIOS; PARIS HILTON: ASHLEY OSBORNE.

Air logo. (“Sliv” is a portmanteau Hilton just a few hints of Paris,” says Larrañaga, somber colors for the well-traveled areas.
created by combining “slaying” and noting that Hilton instead fell in love with “White carpeting looks great until you spill
“living your best life.”) the fully customized over-the-top option the first glass of red wine,” she says.
The jet looks deceptively simple with on par with her public persona. The final The new Honeywell avionics in the
its palette of metallic white and two design includes a headliner with pink reconfigured cockpit, the latest Starlink
shades of custom pink, one of which paint hummingbirds, carpet with sparkles, a satellite system, and an advanced cabin-
manufacturer PPG named Paris Pink. new galley and aft lavatory, newly installed management system (C.M.S.) posed more
But getting there essentially involved four-passenger divans with fabric creating significant challenges. “The C.M.S. is
remaking the G450. a mélange effect, a lighting system with really what’s running the whole ship—the
“A full-scale interior and exterior seven shades of pink, and six executive lighting, sound, even flushing the toilets,”
aircraft refurbishment goes beyond seats with Aeristo leather inserts, pink explains Larrañaga. “We had to make sure
cosmetic upgrades,” says Sarah Mespelt piping, and embossed Sliv Air and Paris it worked with the existing Gulfstream
Larrañaga, a Los Angeles–based logos on the headrests. Prince Tokyo From top: Paris Hilton’s
systems.” The G450 spent five months at
aviation designer who presented Gizmo Hilton, the celebrity’s teacup Gulfstream G450 has Standard Aero in Springfield, Ill., for its
multiple concepts to Hilton and her Chihuahua, even has a matching dog bed. a simple exterior color transformation. Back in L.A., when Hilton
husband, Carter Reum, and oversaw The designer faced an aesthetic scheme, while the interior saw the completed jet, she was moved
required a complete refit
the yearlong project. “We took it down conundrum when it came to Sliv Air’s to match her style; Hilton
to tears. “Sarah just got the vision and
to bare bones, and other than the metal dueling missions. The aircraft needed to in the reengineered elevated it to a whole new level of Sliving,”
shells of the seat frames and, of course, be a bright showstopper to convey Hilton’s cockpit. Hilton says. Daniel Cote

88 DREAM MACHINES
SEPTEMBER 2025 WINGS
www.ArturoFuente.com
WAT E R

Casting Off
Convention
Traditional shipyards
are trading pedigree for
personality in the design
evolution of superyachts.

L
ate author and cultural
commentator Gore Vidal once
quipped, “Style is knowing
who you are, what you want
to say, and not giving a damn.”
That pearl of wisdom feels especially
relevant in today’s yachting world. A
decade ago, yacht making was about
lineage and the confidence of classic
designs. But those conventions have given
way to vertical bows, bold architectural
statements, sculpted interiors, and
seamless indoor-outdoor living via
expansive use of glass. Now, many long-
established shipyards are distilling those
elements into a singular ethos that will
define their brands far into the future.
Take Sparta, for example, Heesen’s flashier styling. It turned to Milan-based
220-foot flagship and its largest steel m2Atelier’s Marco Bonelli and Marijana
yacht to date. The exterior, penned by Radovic for a look more in line with Azimut’s
Winch Design, is a study in muscular barefoot-luxury philosophy. “Its palette,
minimalism, with elegant curves and a colored yet inherently neutral, feels nuanced
reverse bow that advances the Dutch and layered without overwhelming the eye,”
yard’s signature identity. But it’s the Bonelli says. Travertine floors, open-pore Below: The rear helideck on
Limerence perfectly exemplifies
interior—a collaboration between Winch woods, micro-perforated leathers, brushed form embracing function.
and the owner’s team—that sets a new metals, and loose furniture are set among Beyond accommodating
bar. Bronze accents, geometric paneling, a muted scheme of taupes and slates. The an ACH145 helicopter, it’s
a hand-carved-oak staircase, and a Unveiling Wall, inspired by theater curtains, versatile enough for social
functions and pickup-
flowing layout augment an “elemental” is a standout feature. “Its vertical slats and basketball games while
approach, with select rooms themed concealed mechanism allow a television to expanding the 172-footer’s
around earth, air, and water. In the main appear and disappear almost magically, while already unique sense of style.
salon, terra firma appears in dining
chairs upholstered in real palm leaf and
a two-piece oak coffee table, as large as
a redwood’s base, inlaid with green and
copper marble. The aquatic-inflected
V.I.P. staterooms feature wavelike Tai
Ping carpets and aquamarine Tramazite
installations over the beds, while the
Japanese-inspired spa and sky-hued
primary suite reinforce the owner’s vision
of a “whimsical, family-friendly” style.
When it comes to modernist restraint,
Azimut’s Grande Trideck reflects
yachting’s transition toward more subtle,
serene inside environs. Though the 125-
foot model, launched in 2021, was already
a success, the yard wanted to move away
from interior designer Achille Salvagni’s

90 DREAM MACHINES
SEPTEMER 2025
 The futuristic profile of represents a softer,
Sparta (left) is juxtaposed meditative path in yacht
inside by the grounding, design. The exterior
Japanese-themed spa of Feadship’s Moonrise
(above). The salon (bottom) pairs a new
of Azimut’s Grande wave of styling cues with
Trideck model (below) traditional hallmarks.

remaining a beautiful textured backdrop

when not in use,” Radovic says. “It looks
completely different in the morning than
it does in the evening, and different again
under artificial lighting.”
Feadship’s 331-foot Moonrise exemplifies
this evolving style. A reimagining of the
owner’s previous yacht of the same name,
this version’s exterior is notably more
future-forward. Its extended decks enhance
the tiered superstructure, while a taller
mast and the absence of satellite domes
sharpen its silhouette. Yet the vertical bow,
panoramic windows, and sloping stern form
a design language instantly recognizable
within the superyacht landscape.
Further pushing the envelope is Alia’s
172-foot Limerence, whose sculpted blue
topsides frame what the yard describes as
a boutique-hotel-level interior. While it’s
certainly a modern superyacht—replete
with space for dancing, entertaining, and
even basketball—Limerence honors its
support-vessel D.N.A. There’s storage
for tenders, submarines, and toys, plus
a certified helideck—the first on a yacht
that size. According to Alia president
Gökhan Çelik, the design’s innovation
stemmed from “every inch being drawn,
engineered, and built from a blank page.”
It’s a philosophy even Gore Vidal might
have appreciated. Julia Zaltzman

WAT E R 91
Fitness at Sea.

© 2025 Dutch Design LTD , Blauwburgwal 18, 1015 AT,

Amsterdam, The Netherlands. DUTCH DESIGN AND SEA
ROVER ARE REGISTERED MARKS.

[email protected] dutchdesign.com +31 20 792 0888

TECH

The Sound of Simple A microprocessor-controlled

synchronous motor, driving the platter
by belt, further diminishes vibration.
No switches, no clutter. Luphonic’s H2 turntable marries The motor and its digital controller are
decoupled from the chassis and tonearm,
minimalist design with astonishingly detailed playback. ensuring minimal mechanical—or
audible—interference during playback.

J
Apart from a phono cartridge, the
okes about the lengths to which The chassis is a “sandwich” of H2 is turnkey. It ships with Luphonic’s
audiophiles will go to chase vibration-damping neoprene foam sophisticated K2 tonearm, which
sonic nirvana abound. One between outer layers of Corian, Dupont’s features traditional gimbal suspension
New Yorker cartoon perfectly high-density synthetic. This blend greatly with precision Japanese ball bearings,
skewers the obsession: A reduces resonance, the archenemy and a silicone record mat. The carbon-
collector, standing in front of an elaborate of clarity. The brilliant white plinth With its stylish yet composite arm tube and lightweight,
turntable and shelves of records, explains undergoes seven grinding and polishing spartan aesthetic, the digitally printed headshell marry low
Luphonic H2 turntable
to his friend, “The two things that really stages to achieve its glass-smooth finish. makes reduced distortion
resonance with easy height, azimuth,
drew me to vinyl were the expense and Its H-shaped form also reduces platter and with maximized and anti-skate adjustments (compatible
inconvenience.” True, spinning LPs is tonearm interference for purer sound. musicality the focal point. with most cartridges).
a laborious ritual, but devotees say the The H2’s sound is as detailed and
rewards—aural, aesthetic, and even precise as its $4,995 price would suggest.
philosophical—far outweigh any hassle. It deserves to be paired with a capable
New from German maker Luphonic, two-channel system plus a high-quality
the H2 will enhance any Bauhaus-styled cartridge and phono preamp to unlock
residence. Beyond its minimalist design, its full potential.
the turntable also aims to simplify We recently auditioned the turntable
record playback: There are no buttons with an equally minimalist rig—Swiss
or switches—only a small, removable Nagra Classic Series electronics and
puck. Flip the puck to select either 33 Boenicke W8 SE loudspeakers. The
ARNO LAT TEN

or 45 rpm (the speed glows red beneath result was indeed expensive yet, thanks
the white surface) and the platter spins. to the Luphonic H2, hardly inconvenient.
Remove it and the H2 stops, reverting to Unless, of course, you lose the puck.
sleek eye candy. Robert Ross O

94 DREAM MACHINES
SEPTEMBER 2025 TECH
 OCTOBER 29 - NOVEMBER 02
FLIB S .COM

7 LOCATIONS | 1,300+ BOATS | 5 UNFORGETTABLE DAYS

 SPECI A L A D V ER T ISING SEC T ION

Recreational
Image Courtesy Reynolds Lake Oconee

PROPERTIES
Unparalleled Residences, From lakeside properties and mountain other outdoor sports to fitness and wellness
retreats to one-of-a-kind residences and facilities and thoughtfully curated
Breathtaking Locations, wild settings waiting to be developed, experiences. With dining venues and
recreational properties provide the perfect gathering spots that encourage meaningful
and Elevated Amenities— choices for homeowners looking for a encounters with family, neighbors, and
Recreational Properties luxurious lifestyle or developers envisioning friends, resorts and clubs redefine luxury in
a wilderness getaway. For a primary the 21st century, while other recreational
Offer Luxury and Relaxation residence or a second home, the private properties may point to new opportunities
communities boast activities and amenities in the future and extraordinary homes
that range from challenging golf courses and promise a lifestyle fit for royalty.
RECREATIONAL PROPERTIES

Where Adventure
Comes Naturally
Discover Old Edwards Reserve at Lake Keowee.

N
estled within the pristine foothills of
the Blue Ridge Mountains, there exists
a place where the spirit of adventure
intertwines seamlessly with curated
experiences that nourish the body and soul.
Along the crystal waters of Lake Keowee in
Sunset, South Carolina, Old Edwards Reserve is a
private residential mountain club offering a
sanctuary for families seeking connection,
community, and a life well lived.
Now, for the first time in more than 20 years, a
new chapter begins. Welcome to Laurel Village—a
limited collection of just 24 thoughtfully crafted
cottages, centered around an exclusive
18,000-square-foot private putting course
reserved solely for Laurel Village residents.
 SPECI A L A D V ER T ISING SEC T ION

Discover your freedom—and your

future—at Old Edwards Reserve
at Lake Keowee.

At Old Edwards Reserve, adventure unfolds at

every turn. Explore miles of forest trails, tee off on a
world-class golf course, or enjoy a spirited match
on the tennis or pickleball courts. After a day on the
lake or golf course, gather in the village core for
food, fun, music, and camaraderie. As dusk settles
over the Blue Ridge Mountains, unwind on your
screened porch and savor the stillness.
Ideally situated between Greenville and Atlanta,
Old Edwards Reserve offers both a serene escape
and easy accessibility. It’s just 45 minutes from
Greenville, yet a world away.

To schedule a personalized tour with the Old Edwards

Reserve Real Estate Group, call 877-922-5253 or email
[email protected].
 RECREATIONAL PROPERTIES

Fall and Winter Promise

Unforgettable Experiences
at Nemacolin
From outdoor adventures and inner relaxation to holiday
celebrations, there’s something for everyone.

Photo Courtesy Jordan Millington Liquorice

 SPECI A L A D V ER T ISING SEC T ION

I
mmerse yourself in a world of
sublime relaxation, thrilling
adventure, and enchanting mystery
at Nemacolin, a four-season resort
in Pennsylvania’s breathtaking Laurel
Highlands. Explore a vast range of
over-the-top activities, settle into one of
three AAA Five-Diamond hotels or a
range of private homes, and celebrate your
passions with larger-than-life events.
Nemacolin is breathtaking in any season,
but when the fall foliage spreads across
the mountains, it’s simply magical. Get
your heart racing with more than 2,200
acres of outdoor experiences, including
horseback riding, whitewater rafting, fly
fishing, sporting clays at the Nemacolin
Rod & Range Club, and more. Indulge in
unforgettable, PGA-tested golf with two
championship courses designed by Pete
Dye — renowned as two of his most
beautiful and challenging creations.
Nemacolin is well known for its seasonal Photo Courtesy Flylords @flylords
events. This fall, embrace your practice in
a place where magic meets mindfulness.
From September 25 to 28, the iconic Yoga
Power Retreat returns, inviting you to
flow, fly, and find your center across more
than 25 unforgettable pursuits, from aerial
yoga and bungee fitness to sunset sessions
that melt into the horizon. Reserve your
place and enjoy 15 percent off
accommodations for the retreat.
Give your family (and your inner child)
the holiday treat of a lifetime at Hardy’s
Holiday Village. Step inside a life-size,
snow-dusted village, where cozy shops
and delectable sweets beckon from every
corner. This unforgettable spectacle is an
immersive masterpiece designed to fill
you with the excitement you remember
from your youngest days — and this year, Photo Courtesy Jordan Millington Liquorice
it’s even more magical, with exclusive
happenings to reserve in advance.
At Wrapped in Wonder, your family will be treated
to an intimate, 90-minute tour through Hardy’s
Holiday Village, complete with an encounter with
Santa Claus, a private performance from the elves, a
gingerbread-house workshop, and much more. When
evening falls and the little ones are asleep, make your
way to Nightcap, Nemacolin’s nightlife hot spot, for
Elves After Dark, a cheeky cabaret show that will
bring out your mischievous side. Reserve your seats
Photo Courtesy Jordan Millington Liquorice

early; these tickets are in high demand.

Follow your passions to Nemacolin, where the
experiences you love are heightened to a grand scale.
You’ll leave with an even deeper connection to the
moments, feelings, and people that mean the most
to you.

Reserve your stay and discover

the meaning of real-life magic.
For more information, visit nemacolin.com
RECREATIONAL PROPERTIES SPECI A L A D V ER T ISING SEC T ION

At Reynolds
Lake Oconee
a Bespoke
Lifestyle and
Luxury Living
Are in Perfect
Harmony

W
hile Reynolds Lake Oconee
has long been recognized as
one of the nation’s most
esteemed private
communities, its commitment to innovation
and excellence has never wavered. Situated
just east of Atlanta and spanning 12,000
breathtaking acres along Georgia’s second-
largest lake, it continues to redefine luxury
living, laidback charm, and world-class golf,
ensuring an extraordinary, ever-evolving
experience for residents and guests alike.
With five full-service marinas, award-
winning amenities, and exclusive real estate
offerings, Reynolds Lake Oconee provides a
lakefront lifestyle unlike any other. The latest
addition to the community, Richland Pointe
Village, features a walkable 35-acre
neighborhood with lakeside residences, a
state-of-the-art fitness center, two infinity-
edge pools, a 160-seat lakefront restaurant, For those considering
and a full-service spa.
For those seeking more privacy and space, making this area their
The Homesteads area offers a limited home, The Ritz-Carlton
collection of private, multi-acre properties
designed for generational living, with Reynolds, Lake Oconee,
full-time care taking services that ensure
effortless ownership. serves as the perfect
Golfers will revel in the latest course introduction. Located in the
expansions at Richland, a stunning 18-hole
course designed by Tom Fazio that opened heart of the community, it
in 2024, along with the recent
announcement of Fenmoor Golf Club,
includes newly refreshed
which will debut in fall 2026. With these accommodations, an
enhancements, Reynolds Lake Oconee will
be home to eight golf courses and 144 elegant speakeasy, a
holes of championship golf, including rejuvenating spa, and fine
three private, member-exclusive layouts.
Other outdoor enthusiasts will enjoy 100 dining—all embodying the
acres of prime sporting grounds, a
nationally recognized tennis and pickleball
resort’s signature warmth
center, 21 miles of scenic walking trails, and hospitality.
multiple fitness campuses, and 11
distinctive dining venues.
For more information, visit reynoldslakeoconee.com/robb
 Lose yourself in the views.
Find yourself on the water.
Just east of Atlanta, and one flight from just about anywhere,
Reynolds Lake Oconee has welcomed Members from around the
country for nearly four decades. Whether a weekend cottage or a
home for the generations, Reynolds has a special magic all its own.

For those interested in Real Estate and Membership, preferred rates in

®
our cottages or The Ritz-Carlton are available.
UH\QROGVODNHRFRQHHFRPUREE_ 

7 GOLF COURSES 374 MIL E S O F SH O R EL INE T H E R I T Z - C A R L T O N ®      5 ( 6 7 $ 8 5 $ 1 7 6

5 MARINAS SPORTING GROUNDS TENNIS & PICKLEBALL WELLNESS PURSUITS

Rates and availability are subject to change and excludes holidays. Club credit for promotional purposes only. Real estate and other amenities are owned by Oconee Land Development Company LLC and/or other subsidiaries and affiliates of MetLife, Inc. (collectively, "OLDC")
and by unrelated third parties. OLDC is not involved in the marketing or sale of properties owned by third-parties. This is not intended to be an offer to sell nor a solicitation of offers to buy OLDC-owned real estate in Reynolds Lake Oconee by residents of HI, ID, NY, OR, or
any other jurisdiction where prohibited by law. Access and rights to recreational amenities may be subject to fees, membership dues, or other limitations. For OLDC properties, obtain the Property Report required by Federal law and read it before signing anything.
No Federal agency has judged the merits or value, if any, of this property. Void where prohibited by law. WARNING: THE CALIFORNIA DEPARTMENT OF REAL ESTATE HAS NOT INSPECTED, EXAMINED, OR DISQUALIFIED THIS OFFERING. An offering statement
has been filed with the Iowa Real Estate Commission and a copy of such statement is available from OLDC upon request. OLDC properties have been registered with the Massachusetts Board of Registration of Real Estate Brokers and Salesmen in Boston, MA.
RECREATIONAL PROPERTIES

A Castle for the

21st Century
Château Plaisance is a masterpiece in
California’s Sherwood Country Club
 SPECI A L A D V ER T ISING SEC T ION

C
hâteau Plaisance, an
extraordinary estate tucked
within the coveted gated enclave
of Sherwood Country Club in
Southern California, is a showplace of
unmatched architectural splendor,
provenance, and artistic refinement.
A true castle, Château Plaisance spans
nearly three acres and encompasses five
private parcels offering sweeping views of
the Santa Monica Mountains and a Jack
Nicklaus signature championship golf
course. The 14,113-square-foot residence
reflects a masterful blend of elegance and
world-class craftsmanship—a one-of-a- Sher Toor
kind legacy estate.
Framed by formal rose gardens,
cobblestone pathways, life-sized bronze
statuary, and a breathtaking 52-foot
“Château Plaisance is
reflection pond, the grounds rival those of not simply a home—
European nobility. Every element of the
home has been curated with precision, it is an experience
from the Baccarat and Waterford of art, legacy, and
chandeliers to the hand-carved fireplaces,
gold-leafed ironwork, and centuries-old, uncompromising
reclaimed materials sourced from France.
This unparalleled estate features a
luxury,” says Sher Toor
22-foot-high grand salon and ballroom, a of Compass, the estate’s
richly paneled library with a hidden bar, a
dining room designed for royal exclusive representative.
entertaining, and a family-centric kitchen “There is nothing like it
that artfully balances form and function.
The upper levels include a lavish primary on the West Coast, and
suite with dual spa baths and a hidden
third floor offering limitless possibilities—
perhaps, in the country.”
imagine an art studio, screening room, or
private observatory. For private inquiries, media access, or
Complementing the main residence is a exclusive tours, please contact Sher Toor
fully appointed pool house—a mini at Compass Real Estate at 805.504.5872
château—along with a carriage house or email: [email protected]
apartment, an expansive motor court, dual DRE #02077173
gated entries, and a grand plaza designed
for events of up to 150 guests.
The owner is considering including an
iconic piece of automotive art with the
sale: the Robb Report Rolls-Royce
Drophead Phantom, a bespoke edition
crafted in partnership with Rolls-Royce
Motor Cars. With its sculptural design
and whisper-quiet performance, the rare
Phantom Drophead would be the perfect
accompaniment for this once-in-a-
lifetime acquisition.

Compass is a real estate broker licensed by the State of California and abides by Equal Housing
Opportunity laws. License Number 01991628, 01527235, 1527365. All material presented herein is intended
for informational purposes only and is compiled from sources deemed reliable but has not been verified.
Changes in price, condition, sale or withdrawal may be made without notice. No statement is made as to
accuracy of any description. All measurements and square footage are approximate.
RECREATIONAL PROPERTIES SPECI A L A D V ER T ISING SEC T ION

Manitou Creek: The Ultimate

Year-Round Wilderness Retreat
and Salmon-Fishing Lodge
Adjacent to a world-famous salmon river and
heli-skiing terrain.

T
ucked within the heart of British Located directly across from the famed Dean
Columbia’s storied Great Bear River—globally renowned for its steelhead and
Rainforest, Manitou Creek salmon runs—Manitou Creek lies in one of
offers a once-in-a-generation North America’s most productive fishing
opportunity to develop a world-class corridors. From fly-fishing to remote coastal
salmon-fishing resort and wilderness kayaking, the potential for curated outdoor
retreat. This private, 148-acre freehold experiences is unmatched.
oceanfront property boasts over 3,280 feet Yet this isn’t only a summer destination.
of untouched shoreline, an old-growth With alpine terrain rising nearby, the property
forest, and a dramatic 100-foot waterfall is also primed for heli-skiing operations,
where a glacier-fed creek meets the sea. transforming it into a year-round luxury
The property features a year-round wilderness lodge. Think salmon angling
freshwater creek—Manitou Creek—cutting in summer, wildlife safaris in fall, and
through the land and cascading over the backcountry powder adventures in winter,
100-foot drop. This spectacular natural all capped by cozy lodge evenings under the Imagine a signature eco-lodge
feature isn’t just visually stunning, it’s northern sky. with chef-prepared meals, wood-
also ideal for off-grid hydroelectric Accessible via floatplane, helicopter, or
development. A feasibility quote is already marine vessel from Bella Coola, the site offers fired saunas, and all-season guided
in hand for the installation of a 325-kW rare privacy in a setting rich with eagles, orcas,
hydropower system, offering self-sufficient wolves, and bears.
adventures—a rare and rugged
energy options and enormous potential for Offered at CAD $2.35 million, Manitou Creek jewel in one of Earth’s last truly
sustainable development. is a blank canvas for visionary developers.
wild places.
DISTRICT LOT 15, RANGE 3, COAST DISTRICT
PID 008-482-497
PROPERTY TYPE: RESIDENTIAL, FEE SIMPLE For more information, visit manitoucreek.ca
 P R O M O T I O N

RICHMOND AUCTIONS richmondauctions.com

in focus
Richmond Auctions specializes in investment-grade collectibles, delivering record-setting results
for rare advertising, firearms, and historical artifacts. Trusted by discerning collectors, Richmond
offers white-glove service, expert curation, and an elite auction experience - now featuring the
Tony Townley Collection and gold nugget rarities. TOP LEFT

SANDI MILLER BURROWS DESIGNS LTD sandimillerburrowsdesigns.com

Sandi Miller Burrows Designs specializes in precious monogram pendants, earrings, cufflinks, belt
buckles and bracelets. Shown here is an SS, FF, and JJ Monogram Pendants in 18K white, yellow,
and pink gold set with white diamonds, yellow and pink sapphires. Pendants also available in colored
diamonds and other precious stones. TOP RIGHT

LAZY CF RANCH lazycfranch.com

Inspired by the rugged landscapes of Colorado, Lazy CF Ranch transforms natural materials into
durable aluminum furniture that looks and feels organic. Each handcrafted piece merges artistry,
heritage, and sustainability—bringing timeless elegance and frontier spirit to outdoor living, from
private estates to global hotels. BOTTOM LEFT

FORT LAUDERDALE INTERNATIONAL BOAT SHOW flibs.com

The world’s largest in-water boat show returns October 29 – November 2 with over 1,300 boats,
1,000 exhibitors, and 7 show locations spanning nearly 90 acres across three million square feet
of exhibit space. BOTTOM RIGHT
Zegna wool and cashmere coat, price
upon request; Caruso wool-flannel
jacket, $1,845; Tod’s wool and silk
turtleneck, price upon request; Dolce
& Gabbana wool-tweed trousers, price
upon request; Brunello Cucinelli
calfskin belt, $930; Paul Smith
sheepskin gloves, $295.

108 THE FALL STYLE ISSUE

SEPTEMBER 2025
FROM NUBBY TWEEDS TO SUPPLE SHEARLINGS, THE SEASON’S
MOST EXCITING MENSWEAR IS AS RICHLY TEXTURED AS THE
FORESTS, MOUNTAINS, AND LAKES SURROUNDING GSTAAD PALACE.

PHOTOGRAPHED BY EDUARDO MIERA / STYLED BY ALEX BADIA

THE FALL STYLE ISSUE

SEPTEMBER 2025 109
Caruso wool overcoat, $2,415;
Boglioli wool-flannel jacket, $1,628,
wool and cashmere sweater, $795,
and wool-flannel trousers, $709;
Tod’s calfskin belt, $725; Zegna
buffalo-leather moccasins, $1,450.

110 THE FALL STYLE ISSUE

SEPTEMBER 2025 FIELD GUIDE
 Massimo Alba wool-tweed
jacket, $1,635; Moncler
Polartec turtleneck, $590;
Tod’s suede backpack,
$3,695; Alonpi cashmere
blanket, $1,981.

THE FALL STYLE ISSUE

FIELD GUIDE SEPTEMBER 2025 111
Prada suede and shearling coat,
$11,800, wool sweater, $2,350,
and wool trousers, $2,150.

112 THE FALL STYLE ISSUE

SEPTEMBER 2025 FIELD GUIDE
Loro Piana dark-camel Rain System
cashmere jacket, $6,200, greige
Rain System cashmere vest, $4,990,
greige cashmere crewneck, $3,280,
and brown wool trousers, $1,815;
Brunello Cucinelli saddle-brown
calfskin boots, $1,650.
Aspesi wool and cashmere field shirt, $890;
Sacai wool trousers, $840; Brioni wool
and cashmere tie, $295; Loro Piana x
Le Chameau rubber boots, $1,580; Paul
Smith sheepskin gloves, $295; Alonpi
cashmere blanket, $1,981.

114 THE FALL STYLE ISSUE

SEPTEMBER 2025 FIELD GUIDE
THE FALL STYLE ISSUE
SEPTEMBER 2025 115
Tod’s wool mockneck sweater, $1,845;
AMI viscose shirt, $440; Ralph Lauren
Purple Label wool-twill trousers, $795;
Patek Philippe Annual Calendar
Ref. 5960P watch, about $48,000,
available at Phillips in association with
Bacs & Russo, Gstaad Palace; Zegna
acetate and metal sunglasses, $455.

116 THE FALL STYLE ISSUE

SEPTEMBER 2025
 Hermès shearling jacket, $23,600,
calfskin overshirt, $10,600, cashmere
and silk turtleneck, $2,425, and wool-
gabardine trousers, $1,150; Chopard
Alpine Eagle 41 watch, $15,500.

THE FALL STYLE ISSUE

FIELD GUIDE SEPTEMBER 2025 117
 Ralph Lauren Purple Label
brown wool-twill sport coat,
$2,995, and trousers, $795,
cream cotton shirt, $595, and
brown wool-flannel tie, $235.

118 THE FALL STYLE ISSUE

SEPTEMBER 2025 FIELD GUIDE
 Louis Vuitton wool coat and wool
trousers, prices upon request; Aspesi
wool and cashmere sweater, $440.

THE FALL STYLE ISSUE

SEPTEMBER 2025 119
Brunello Cucinelli alpaca, virgin-wool, and
cashmere cardigan, $5,500, silk and cotton
jersey shirt, $1,150, cotton and virgin-wool
trousers, $1,600, and calfskin belt, $930;
Canali cashmere and silk blazer, $3,795;
Brioni wool and cashmere tie, $295.

MODEL : Oriol Elcacho Miro

GROOMING : Cristina Crosara
STYLE EDITOR : Naomi Rougeau
MARKET AND SITTINGS EDITOR :
Simone Fantuzzi
PHOTO DIRECTOR : Irene Opezzo
PHOTO ASSISTANT : Ead Gjergji
PRODUCTION :
Monica Poli/Coldfocus
PRODUCTION ASSISTANT :
Lorenzo Borboni
CASTING : Bronson Vajda
LOCATION : Special thanks to
GSTAAD PALACE
 Moncler cream, brown, and black
mélange carded-wool sweater, $1,430,
and brown ski trousers in 2L tech
corduroy with RECCO reflector
system, $1,950; Chopard L.U.C
Quattro Mark IV watch, $40,400.

THE FALL STYLE ISSUE

FIELD GUIDE SEPTEMBER 2025 121
In Dubai, stylist and
longtime Sartori
collaborator Julie
Ragolia makes preshow
adjustments to a spring
2026 Conte jacket
and shorts in Oasi
linen, paired with a
Prince of Wales–check
spread-collar shirt.
Opposite: Alessandro
Sartori photographed at
Chateau Marmont,
one of the designer’s
W WD

favorite hotels.

122 THE FALL STYLE ISSUE

SEPTEMBER 2025
ALESSANDRO SARTORI PORTRAIT: COURTESY OF ZEGNA

By NAOMI ROUGEAU
Photographed by
GIOVANNI GIANNONI
Zegna artistic director Alessandro Sartori
has made his mark on menswear thanks
to a sophisticated palette, languid
textiles, and a wholehearted embrace of
his customers’ personal style.
 joined in 1989 as a recent graduate of Milan’s
Istituto Marangoni, working as a menswear
designer. In 2003, he became the creative
director of Z Zegna, which targeted a younger
customer with more modern sensibilities. He
remained in that role, firmly establishing the
diffusion line’s identity, until 2011, when he was
named artistic director of Paris-based Berluti,
to which his command of color was well suited.
He assumed Zegna’s top creative post five years
later. Since then, he has been refining his vision
for clothing that, despite the brand’s rather
rigid past, looks like nothing else on the market
today—fervent efforts from copycats be damned.
As the fall-winter 2025 lineup now hitting
stores and the recently revealed spring-summer
2026 collection demonstrate, his is not a pin-
sharp, wrinkle-free interpretation of luxury but
a far more soulful approach that encourages men
to blend cherished wardrobe pieces with fresh
When I meet Alessandro Sartori a little over acquisitions over time.
a year ago, the first thing that strikes me, “I’m watching how my clients are styling,
under the searing sun on the shadeless roof- living, traveling, thinking, and working,” Sar-
top of Shanghai’s Middle House hotel on a tori tells me not long after presenting his latest
90-degree day, is that the Zegna artistic direc- collection. “I need to be always plugged-in. It’s
tor is clad head to toe in black. It’s not entirely very important to be into your own commu-
out of the ordinary in an industry where often nity because today in fashion you can’t dictate
dogmatic designers can be easily caricatured anything any longer. It is now about offering a
by their uniforms (Karl Lagerfeld’s high- full proposal with meaning and being able to
collared, heavily starched shirts, Yohji Yama- surprise in a good way. If you think you can
moto’s omnipresent trilby). But curiously, for dictate by pushing products that are overde-
Sartori, his choice of dress is neither a costume signed, through blind trust, you will go nowhere
nor a direct reflection of the aesthetic of the because those years are gone.”
115-year-old Italian brand that he has led since
2016. “It helps me to think,” says the 58-year-old
designer, whose Instagram bio declares, “I am
a colorist but I always wear black.”
The second thing that makes an impression
is how composed Sartori is—remarkably Zen
even—mere hours before a major show. He is
curious and thoughtful, carving out time to
explore during work trips like this one, and
he’s rarely without his Leica M10. On this
particular afternoon, he is marveling at the
post-pandemic sartorial shift in the region,
as witnessed on a recent flight from Chengdu
to Hong Kong. “Before Covid, it was all loud
logos and even louder garments,” he says. “I was
sitting there watching, and people around me
were wearing Arc’teryx, wearing Zegna, wear-
ing monochrome, and wearing technical shoes
with suits. And I said, ‘Where are we? Is it New
York or London?’” There’s also little hint of big
designer ego: When I suggest that perhaps he is
underestimating the impact of Zegna on those
changing tastes, as it was the first luxury brand
to establish a boutique in mainland China, back
in 1991, he demurs.
But make no mistake, he’s every inch a com-
pany man. Sartori’s ties to Zegna run deep. He

From left: Models, in layers final tweaks to a suede

of Oasi linen, backstage in look before a model takes
Dubai; Sartori makes a few to the runway.

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 Whether wool, silk, linen,
or leather, Sartori imbues
each spring look with a
lightness that extends to
the collection’s footwear.

If there was an aha moment for Sartori, it

was the fall-winter 2021 collection. Designed at
the height of the pandemic, the elegantly sup-
ple clothes made clear that the designer was
in tune with his customers and was charting a
new course for Zegna. The finishing touch: the
momentous dropping of “Ermenegildo” from the
brand’s name to better align with the stock-ticker
symbol, ZGN, on the occasion of its I.P.O.
“While many wondered how to approach
fashion during such a seismic event, Alessandro
was more than ready to meet the moment,” says
stylist Julie Ragolia, a longtime collaborator.
“Clothes are the closest things we hold to our
bodies, to our hearts. Deciding to work entirely
in cashmere for that collection was bold, but also
precise. He built at once a sense of armor and
comfort at a time when people needed that most
from their wardrobe. Understanding that link has
always been Alessandro Sartori’s science. But
being able to express this through the medium
of film [in the absence of runway shows] allowed
a more widespread audience to witness the bril-
liance of how his mind works.”

t’s a science that many a brand is doing its

darndest to study. Imitators abound, and
the number of riffs I saw on the best-sell-
ing elasticized Triple Stitch sneakers (a
$1,000-plus gateway buy, prominently fea-
tured on Succession) and moccasin loafers
at both the Pitti Uomo trade show and in
Milan showrooms could justify keeping several
intellectual-property attorneys on retainer.
But the fact is, no one is doing what Sartori is
doing. Perhaps not since Giorgio Armani shook
up the industry with his fluid tailoring in the
1980s has there been such a sustained, singular
vision in menswear, though Ragolia cites Rick
Owens as another directional, influential creator.
“And Thom Browne revealed the ankle, chang-
ing tailoring forever,” she adds. “But Alessandro
Sartori, he changed the way people dress as a
mindset. That’s an impact that is incalculable.”
When I catch up with Sartori via Zoom on a
recent summer evening, he is en route to a din-

SA RT O R I RU L E S
ner with his car club, Oca Rossa, in the northern Italian tains of cashmere fibers and linen-clad models weaving
countryside. He insists on pulling over to send a photo through stalks of flax. The Dubai event was no exception.
of his ride, a 1972 Porsche 911 Targa. It’s just one vintage Zegna transformed the city’s opera house into a desert
automobile in a collection so impressive that he created oasis complete with sand dunes, local flora, and a sun-
Milano Garage to house it, then invited other discerning bleached palette that echoed the clothing, which had an
collectors to rent space there. Cars also present Sartori intentionally lived-in feel. Sartori went heavy on layering
with another opportunity to experiment with hue. “In and monochromatic pairings (think sets over suits). He
order to enjoy colors, I need to be hiding behind the also threw out the rule book on seasonality.
screen,” he says, or in this case, behind the wheel. “My “The clash between seasons is part of [the vision],
car tonight is signal orange, which is pretty strong.” He, the idea of accumulating, of layering, and of stratifica-
on the other hand, is all in black. tion,” says Sartori, attributing his approach to his habit
Before he had keys to a red 1972 Lancia Fulvia HF, of working on more than one collection at a time rather
a bronze 1981 Porsche 911 Turbo, and a blue 1965 Ford than making an abrupt shift every six months.
Mustang Fastback 289, a young Sartori used to tool The collection’s technical achievement lay in Sar-
around this same terrain on his bicycle, in the shadow tori’s innovative take on summer suiting, for which he
of the Zegna wool mill. The aptly named Sartori was developed extraordinarily lightweight linen garments
born in Trivero, a stone’s throw from Zegna HQ, to a through advanced construction methods that eliminated
mother who had an immeasurable influence on his traditional linings while maintaining structural integrity.
future vocation: She was a dressmaker, and he would Slipper-thin loafers and bare feet kept things light, and
often accompany her on Saturday outings to purchase even his signature banded-collar Il Conte jacket was
fabrics. “When I was 7, 8, 9, I remember cycling around made ever so slightly oversize, creating a more relaxed
those villages and passing in front of the Villa Zegna appearance. Eventually, the desert neutrals gave way to
and the wool mill,” he says. “And from the gate of the buttercream, chartreuse, oxblood, burnt orange, and lav-
Casa Zegna, it was possible to see inside the place and ender, while tunics and shorts were paired with tailoring.
some of the beauty. That got me dreaming. But at that Sartori, the self-professed man in black, took his bow in
time I didn’t know it was Zegna. I just loved the place.” a relatively pale, gray ensemble for a change alongside
One can’t help but get the sense that his career was a singer-songwriter James Blake, who provided the music.
bit preordained, particularly when taking into account
how textiles are woven into Zegna’s D.N.A. espite the spectacular destination shows,
Unlike most fashion houses (Loro Piana being a nota- for Sartori and Zegna, all roads lead back
ble exception), Zegna operates five dedicated state-of- to the Biellese Alps—specifically, a nearly
the-art mills. Its origins, in fact, lie in textile manufac- 40-square-mile reforestation project and
turing, and that expertise in raw materials remains at nature preserve known as Oasi Zegna, which
the heart of all the brand’s enterprises. Sartori meets Ermenegildo Zegna had the foresight to set
weekly with his team to discuss the latest technologies aside for conservation in the 1930s, and
and determine which fabrics are required for which which today remains a touchstone for the brand. Over
garments, whether it’s an airy silk-linen blend or a pro- the past nine decades, the company has planted more
prietary waffle cloth that combines 50 percent recycled than 500,000 trees, sowing the seeds for the sustainable
paper gathered from magazines and newspapers with 50 ethos that guides all things Zegna. That means trace-
percent cotton. And then there are the ultralight leath- ability, from crop to garment (with full journey details
ers. One particularly innovative look from spring-sum- for its Oasi cashmere accessible via Q.R. code hangtags),
mer 2026 is a brown and cream plaid jacket that visually reliance on 100 percent renewable energy in the U.S.
reads as a cashmere-linen blend but is in fact knitted and Europe, and an enduring awareness that a great
from thin strips of leather. wardrobe, like a forest, is built over time, not in one fell
Such lightness of materials was well suited to Dubai, swoop. “We are designing for a man that is collecting.
where Zegna presented the collection in June, leaving We’re giving values to the garments, blending season
a gaping hole in the Milan Fashion Week schedule (the after season, as a normal man does with his own ward-
brand typically closes out the event). The show wasn’t a robe and products,” says Sartori. “We want to create a
mere replay of designs previously introduced in Europe, collection that is timeless in the quality, in the design,
a common publicity move for brands, but a full-scale and in the aesthetic.”
unveiling that saw the entire Zegna team decamp for The Zegna customer chooses his acquisitions with
several weeks to one of its major markets. “The collec- care, and the same can be said of Sartori and his col-
tion went straight from the atelier to Dubai without any laborators, many of whom have been in his circle for a
editing,” says Sartori. “The full team, 51 people, 17 of decade or more. Julie Ragolia, who has styled the shows
them tailors.” and a variety of the brand’s campaigns for several years,
Even when not on the road, Sartori understands the met Sartori in 2014. “I think we had seen what each
importance of creating an immersive experience, often other was doing and felt a certain like-mindedness, and
allowing guests time to walk around the sets and to I remember having had the most incredible conversa-
see and feel the clothes postshow. “The Zegna runway tion about art, fashion, and culture,” she says. Not long
shows have grown over the years in their scale, scope, after, Sartori invited her to style the Berluti shows in
and spectacle, with truly awe-inducing, cinematic treat-
ments executed to jaw-dropping effect,” says Bruce Pask,
senior director of men’s fashion at Saks Fifth Avenue and
Neiman Marcus. “There is always a vital, fundamental A quartet of silk, linen,
and wool looks, in varying
idea at the center of each visual concept that absolutely
treatments, demonstrates
underscores and amplifies the core message and mean- the prowess of the
ing of the collection.” Past shows have featured moun- Zegna mills.

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 Paris, and when he returned to Zegna, he asked her to uncommon to spot a few women in the mix—though
follow. This fall will mark 10 years that the two have Sartori has no plans to do women’s suiting anytime soon.
worked together. “No, no, no, it is not a sign of things to come,” he says.
“I love to design for men, but I think that women can
ith a far less dictatorial approach than easily borrow garments from the boyfriend, the part-
many of his peers, Sartori is more inter- ner, the father, the husband. Because those pieces are
ested in how Zegna’s customers live and also good for women with the right dose, so maybe one
interact with their purchases, whether jacket, a beautiful piece of knitwear. And I like offering
they are cool 20-somethings in Tokyo a vision of [that] woman. I think it’s very interesting.”
or chic septuagenarians in Toronto. I Mikkelsen has been a brand fixture for several years,
witnessed this approach firsthand in having walked in shows and fronted campaigns, the
Shanghai when actor Mads Mikkelsen, then 58, along- most recent being spring-summer 2025. But it was the
side Gen Z actor Leo Wu, managed to move nearly choice of 60-something entrepreneur and famed watch
$10 million worth of Zegna merchandise in a single hour, collector Auro Montanari (a.k.a. John Goldberger to
all via WeChat live stream. Sartori also takes a global legions of horology aficionados who follow him online)
perspective, picking up references from all corners. that caught the attention of the Financial Times and had
“I watch everything, and I see everything, but I don’t social media buzzing. When Zegna approached him
design for one specific place in the world,” he says. For about a shoot, Sartori recalls, “He said, ‘Ale, I’m not a
him, it is more a matter of style, values, and supporting a model, I’m a doer.’” Montanari also made the journey
customer who is conscious about what they are buying, to Dubai, thrilling 40 watch collectors, both locals and
how it is made, and how it will fit into not only their V.I.P.s flown in from around the world, who were treated
lifestyle but also their existing wardrobe. Evolution and to a talk by the expert.
a certain continuity are key—chasing trends is not. “Alessandro is an incredibly gifted, experimental,
That regard for agelessness and placelessness is also and intuitive designer,” says Saks and Neiman’s Pask,
Sartori, in his vintage reflected in the casting for shows and ad campaigns. In noting Sartori’s rare combination of creativity and
Mustang, at Milano Garage addition to a span of generations and ethnicities, it’s not pragmatism: His timely embrace of sportswear led the

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 century-old institution to evolve beyond its more tra-
ditional sartorial history. While profits for the Zegna
Group, which also includes Thom Browne and Tom
Ford, slid slightly in 2024, the Zegna brand’s revenues
have grown steadily, reaching about $2.2 billion last
year. The annual earnings report makes for interest-
ing reading during a time when both LVMH and Ker-
ing have taken significant hits while brands such as
Brunello Cucinelli—which also places a priority on
sourcing, ethical production, and transparency—have
seen sales rise. Whether the customer was already in
search of sustainable options is almost inconsequential,
as Sartori and company, never far from their roots, have
made a priority of amplifying the values of Ermeneg-
ildo Zegna.
Still, Sartori must sell a dream, albeit a wearable one,
and he continues to explore that realm between the clas-
sic and the avant-garde, to the delight of modern men—
and a few women—of style and substance. Ragolia recalls
a recent encounter at a gallery opening in New York, for
which she donned Zegna. “I was standing near a friend
who was talking to one of the artists, who kept staring at
me,” she says. Eventually, the artist approached, touched
Ragolia’s sleeve, and asked, wide-eyed, who had made her
jacket. “When I told him it was Zegna, he continued to
marvel over the fabric, the weft and weave, the color. In
a crowded gallery, where his works lined the walls, this
artist was talking about Zegna.”
Sartori may be creating a new benchmark for what a
ALESSANDRO SARTORI: DANIELE MANGO/ W WD

large luxury brand can be, but he references the advice

to “buy what you like,” now a standard line whether
you’re in the market for an artwork or a pair of trousers.
“It seems simple, but it isn’t,” he says. “Customers in
fashion have been around dictates too long. Now it’s
time to go personal, to feel yourself, to build your ward-
robe from listening and watching but in the end make Left: A female model
your own decisions, because fashion and garments only in the mix. Below: Even
really have a meaning when they are your garments, backstage, a trio of rust-
designed to make yourself better. I don’t want you to colored suede looks takes
center stage.
be somebody else.” O

SA RT O R I RU L E S
 ES S U C A S A SIOB
HA N RE
ID

M I CA SA
By

On a rambling estate in rural Spain,

a married pair of gallerists are building
a fantasy land for design lovers,
one starchitect’s dream house at a time.

132 THE FALL STYLE ISSUE

SEPTEMBER 2025
 elgian architects David Van Severen
and Kersten Geers were more than
a decade into their practice when
they first visited Matarraña, Spain,
in 2012. They went at the invitation
of art-world power duo Eva Albar-
rán and Christian Bourdais, who had
acquired a sprawling undeveloped
estate in the rural region and had met
the up-and-coming designers while
trawling for talent at the 2010 Ven-
ice Architecture Biennale. Van Severen and Geers, whose
Office KGDVS won the event’s prestigious Silver Lion
Award for Most Promising Young Practice, were just what
they were looking for. Impressed by the architects’ vision,
Albarrán and Bourdais enlisted them to design a high-end
vacation home that challenged the very notion of what
such a house could be.
They had never experienced a site visit quite like
this one. As Albarrán and Bourdais led the pair around a
densely forested plateau offering 360-degree views over
the soaring limestone massifs of Els Port Natural Park, they
explained that the architects would have free rein to design
whatever kind of house they wanted.
“When you’re given carte blanche, a funny thing hap-
pens,” says Van Severen. “You’re suddenly projected back
on yourself. You think: ‘Well, where would I want to live?
What’s my dream holiday home?’”
It was no ordinary client meeting, but then Albarrán and
Bourdais are no ordinary clients. Since 2004, the couple
have run one of France’s leading contemporary-art produc-
tion companies, specializing in large-scale exhibitions and
public commissions for Paris’s Grand Palais and the French
Pavilion at the Venice Biennale, among others. As the art-
work they produce has grown more complex and increas-
ingly more monumental—take, for instance, Les Extatiques,
the annual outdoor art event they stage just outside the
French capital every fall, with large-scale pieces taking over
wide boulevards and grand buildings—the couple’s process
has necessarily become more spatial, driving a deep interest
in the relationship between object and environment.
“We love art, but we always say that if we could go back
and do it again, we’d pursue architecture,” says Bourdais, who
met Albarrán in the mid-1990s, when they were both studying
at a business school in London. (On their first date, they went
to an Yves Klein exhibition at the Hayward Gallery.)
In 2010, the couple decided to pursue their architectural
ambitions more head-on, hatching the master plan behind
a visionary long-term hospitality project they dubbed Solo
Houses. A collection of design-forward vacation-home
prototypes, each created by a different leading interna-
tional architect, the concept is a sort of modern European
riff on California’s groundbreaking midcentury Case Study
House program. Now, 15 years and dozens of permitting
licenses later, their magnum opus is finally coming into
view: Two homes are complete (including Van Severen and
Geers’s contribution), an avant-garde hotel is underway,
their organic winery is reviving the region’s deep viticul-
tural roots, and a newly unveiled sculpture park showcases
works by some of the biggest names in the art world. It’s
one of the continent’s most radical hospitality ventures,
expanding the boundaries of 21st-century design—and,
crucially, without any of the client pushback that accompa-
The pool at Office KGDVS’s nies many architectural commissions.
RENÉE KEMPS

contribution to Solo Houses,

“Essentially, we wanted to give architects the same cre-
a.k.a. Solo Office. The chaise
longues are by Muller van ative freedom as is typically given to artists,” says Albar-
Severen for Solo Houses. rán, who got her start working at influential independent

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SEPTEMBER 2025 133
galleries, including the Parisian outpost of New
York’s Marian Goodman gallery.
At the same Venice Biennale where they
met Van Severen and Geers, Albarrán and
Bourdais also mingled with other rising young
stars, including India’s Bijoy Jain and Japan’s
Sou Fujimoto, both of whom they would also
later commission to design residences. As Solo
Houses started taking shape, the couple began
articulating their criteria for the practitioners
they approached. Generation-defining talent
and a daring, forward-thinking sensibility were
the obvious prerequisites. But knowing that the
project would take decades to complete, they put
just as much emphasis on personal compatibility.
Going after Pritzker Prize–winning architects
was out of the question, notes Bourdais; by the
time they receive the industry’s top honor, laure-
ates are often in the twilight of their careers, with
their most groundbreaking work behind them.
“We wanted to identify the best architects of
this generation—the people who’d make history
in our lifetime,” he says. So nothing from Renzo
Piano or Peter Zumthor, but two houses from the
husband-and-wife teams of Los Angeles–based
Johnston Marklee and Brooklyn’s SO-IL.

A
lbarrán and Bourdais’s quest to find the
ideal setting for what they have billed
as Europe’s first architecture collec-
tion began in 2009. Amid a hectic pro-
duction schedule, Bourdais traveled
from France to Morocco to Turkey in search of a
spectacular natural setting seemingly untouched
by human intervention. (“No telephone poles or
overhead cables,” insisted Albarrán.) Other items
on their wish list included a sunny Mediterra-
nean climate and proximity to a major interna-
tional airport.

EVA ALBARRÁN AND CHRISTIAN BOURDAIS: PABLO GÓMEZ; DINING ROOM: DIOGO PORTO; KITCHEN: TWENT YFOUR SEVEN
Aragon, the autonomous Spanish community
bordering Catalonia and Valencia and extending perfect opportunity to create their vast architec-
as far north as the French border, was unique in tural playground while also offering meaningful
its appeal. Once a powerful independent kingdom employment opportunities for the region’s build-
in the Middle Ages, the region played a key role ers and craftspeople. Its easternmost corner,
in the formation of modern Spain, with the mar- Matarraña, was particularly ideal, with its rugged
riage of Ferdinand II of Aragon to Isabella of Cas- mountain vistas, balmy climate, and relative ease
tile in 1469. The union merged Castile, then the of access to Barcelona and Valencia, just two-and-
mightiest and wealthiest kingdom, with Aragon, a a-half- and three-hour drives away, respectively.
maritime power. While the region’s influence has In 2010, they purchased 200 hectares (about
dwindled dramatically since then, its civilization- 494 acres), with sweeping views of the Ports de
spanning history lives on in its most famous land- Tortosa-Beseit mountain range and deep valleys
marks, such as the 11th-century Aljafería Palace blanketed with pine, olive, and almond trees.
and the baroque Basilica of the Lady of the Pillar, They approached celebrated Belgian landscape
both in the capital city of Zaragoza. architect Bas Smets—whose portfolio nota-
For Solo Houses, however, Albarrán and bly includes the botanicals around the newly
Bourdais ventured far off the tourist trail to the reborn Notre-Dame cathedral in Paris—to design
southernmost province of Teruel, deep in the “climate-smart” outdoor areas that link the res-
heart of España vaciada, or “empty Spain”—a idences and enhance ecological resilience using
term referring to the economic decline and native species. They also enlisted the Swiss art
depopulation of the country’s rural pockets. curator and critic Hans Ulrich Obrist, artistic
Teruel, while littered with Mudéjar landmarks director at London’s Serpentine Galleries, as a
and storybook-pretty towns, has been one of the long-term collaborator and cultural adviser.
hardest-hit Spanish provinces. In recent years, With its alpine topography and breezy loca-
the government even started paying people to tion just 12 miles from the Mediterranean Sea, the
move to its sleepy medieval villages. Solo Houses site is not dissimilar from the wooded
For Albarrán and Bourdais, Teruel’s rich landscapes of Chile’s Pacific coast, where archi-
heritage and wide-open spaces provided the tects Mauricio Pezo and Sofía von Ellrichshausen

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SEPTEMBER 2025
These pages, clockwise room at Solo Office,
from far left: Eva with walls that can fully
Albarrán and Christian open and chairs by
Bourdais at a Milan Thonet; the house’s
exhibition of their artist kitchen, by Gaggenau,
Felice Varini; the dining with furniture by USM.
have constructed some of their award-winning
contemporary residences. It’s fitting, then, that
their young South American firm was the first

BEDROOM AND COURT YARD POOL: RENÉE KEMPS; NIGHT VIEW AND SPIRAL
to complete a home, which became available for
short-term stays beginning in 2013.
In response to the question “What is a house?”

STAIRCASE: : COURTESY OF SOLO PEZO VON ELLRICHSHAUSEN

the Chilean architects conceived a kind of bru-
talist treehouse, its geometric forms and inter-
play of light and darkness designed to alter the
perception of time—the goal of any holiday get-
away, Pezo notes. A dramatic, bifurcated exterior
staircase leads to an enclosed chamber, where a
portal looks onto the tiled floor of the swimming
pool above. From there, a spiral staircase streams
up to a light-filled central pool courtyard opening
directly to the sky. Standing in the hulking con-
crete box—the open-air nucleus of the home—
evokes being in a James Turrell Skyspace, your
senses heightened to the shifting of the light or
the passing of clouds. To further play with per-
ceptions, Pezo and von Ellrichshausen inverted
the house’s layout, situating living areas and bed-
rooms along the outer edge of the structure, in
the style of an elongated veranda, with retract-
able glass walls that open to the outdoors.
For the architects, the Solo Houses commis-
sion was an opportunity to break from the “cer-
tifications, standardizations, and technocratic
concerns that rule current architectural produc-
tion,” says von Ellrichshausen. Instead, she adds,
by invoking the atemporality associated with
leisure time, architecture can “expose us to the
mystery of our lives.”
Van Severen and Geers, whose design was
completed next, were similarly drawn to austere
lines and geometric forms that blur the divide
between indoor and outdoor space. “The idea
was to make the architecture as invisible as pos-
sible,” says Van Severen.
The pair used glass, stainless steel, and rein-
forced concrete to construct a circular house that
traces the natural edges of a plateau, enclosing a
Mediterranean garden designed by Smets. As in
the Pezo von Ellrichshausen house, the floor-to-
ceiling glass walls slide fully open to the elements
while the interiors balance spartan lines with
avant-garde furniture, such as stool-lamp hybrids
by visual artist Richard Venlet and striking wire-
mesh chaise longues by designer Muller Van
Severen (David’s brother). On the roof, photo-
voltaic panels, water tanks, and generators have
been reimagined as functional sculptural objects
by Belgian painter Pieter Vermeersch.
“We were cautious in our approach of finish-
ing the residence,” recalls David Van Severen,
adding that the project took five years to be real-
ized. “The brutality of it was beautiful—it was
almost like land art. We were nervous to add any
more than what was necessary.”
For Albarrán and Bourdais, seeing how these
architectural ideas come to fruition and evolve
over time is a continual source of excitement. “THERE HAVE BEEN NO BAD SURPRISES.”
“What has been really rewarding is the process,”
says Albarrán. “There have been no bad sur-
prises.” Ultimately, the couple felt so at ease in the
Office KGDVS home, they opted to ride out the
Covid lockdown there with their three children.

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 Still, not every architect involved has found artists while opening their property to the
the project’s carte blanche approach liberating. culturally underserved local community. (There
Go Hasegawa, who is in the process of designing isn’t a contemporary-art space within 60 miles
one of the property’s 13 vacation homes, con- of Solo Houses.) To that end, in 2019, they
fesses that having complete creative control has debuted the biannual Solo Summer Group Show,
instead been a source of stress. an open-air seasonal art exhibition that followed
“I’m not happy with the freedom,” explains a nearly one-mile route designed by Smets.
the Tokyo-based architect, who began his career For the inaugural edition, Albarrán and Bour-
designing small, modest structures in the Japa- dais partnered with two other leading Span-
nese capital. Nor is he interested in doing “what ish galleries—Juana de Aizpuru in Madrid and
I want to do,” in “showing my ego.” Instead, he Àngels in Barcelona—to present nine works
feels that constraints are necessary for “chal- by major artists, including the French sculptor
lenging and overcoming myself.” Christian Boltanski and Colombia’s Iván Argote.
While his contribution is still in develop- Several of the pieces have become permanent fix-
ment seven years in, Hasegawa says his inten- tures on the property, notably a perforated-brick
tion is to depart from the “beautiful Western labyrinth, Truth always appears as something
These pages, clockwise a view of the inside of
from left: A bedroom the swimming pool; the monumentality” embodied by the two existing veiled, by Zamora.
at Solo Pezo von courtyard pool, which Solo Houses. Coming from Japan, where the This past summer, the gallerists decided
Ellrichshausen, with a frames the sky; the four seasons are pronounced, he’s also intrigued to embrace a more permanent art program,
stool by Federicia; the treehouse-like structure by the “timeless” quality of Matarraña’s land- unveiling a nearly two-mile-long circular
home’s entrance, with at night.
scapes, which remain more or less unchanged Solo Sculpture Trail beginning and ending at
throughout the year. This is the “richness” he’s the adjacent organic Venta d’Aubert winery,
looking to explore, he says. which they acquired and renovated in 2022.

A
gainst the backdrop of the Solo Houses
expansion, the couple began dividing
their time between Paris and Madrid,
where, in 2018, they founded a contem-
porary-art gallery, Albarrán Bourdais,
in the tony Salamanca area. Three years later, they
relocated to an airy two-floor space in the nearby
Justicia neighborhood. The gallery—one of the
largest in the capital, at about 8,600 square feet—
has hosted major exhibitions of Swiss painter
Olivier Mosset, Mexican sculptor and installation
artist Héctor Zamora, and Argentina’s kinetic-art
maestro, Julio Le Parc, to name a few.
The decision to open the Madrid gallery and,
later, an outpost in Menorca’s capital, Mahón,
happened organically. “Everything comes
together easily,” explains Albarrán. “We see all
these distinct elements—production, architec-
ture, the galleries—as one and the same, because
it’s all part of our vision.”
In that vein, the couple looked to extend
the gallery’s programming to Teruel, giving
increased visibility to their growing stable of

M I C A SA E S S U C A SA
On the Solo Sculpture Trail:
Claudia Comte, Five Marble
Leaves, 2023, Carrara marble.
DANIEL SCHÄFER

Above, right: Jose Dávila, The

Act of Being Together, 2025,
stones and steel.

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SEPTEMBER 2025 M I C A SA E S S U C A SA
 Though Matarraña has a rich viticultural red lights and affixed to the roof of a vintage
history stretching back centuries, this Volvo. Near the trailhead is Mexican artist
legacy was largely uprooted in the 1990s, Jose Dávila’s The Act of Being Together, a
when vines were replaced by more prof- site-specific work comprising megalithic
itable crops such as almonds and olives. structures that recall prehistoric sites such
By adopting organic, low-yield farming as Stonehenge and Machu Picchu.
methods and the use of both local and “I’m drawn to sculpture in its purest form,
international grape varieties such as Gar- when sculpture didn’t have a name,” says
nacha Tinta and Cabernet Franc, Albarrán Dávila, who was invited to create the piece
and Bourdais hope to rescue this regional for Solo Houses after Albarrán and Bourdais
know-how and put Matarraña back on the saw his stone installation at the most recent
global wine map. True to the spirit of Solo Desert X festival in California’s Coachella
Houses, they’ve given the German-Spanish Valley. “When you encounter these kinds
winemaking duo Stefan Dorst and César of primal volumes, you awaken an original
Fernández total agricultural and creative astonishment that’s not bogged down by
control over the 44 acres under vines and complex narratives.”
have commissioned several of their artists Dávila describes working with Albarrán
to design custom label art. and Bourdais as seamless and wonders how
After a tasting at the winery, visitors they juggle their booming production busi-
can walk or e-bike along the sculpture trail, ness, two galleries, constant travel for art
encountering site-specific large-scale works fairs and architectural biennials, and ongoing
by artists such as Jose Dávila, Alicja Kwade, construction at Solo Houses. This summer,
and the Danish collective Superflex set amid after battling the local authorities over per-
the vineyard, olive groves, and fragrant pine mits for five years, the couple received the
forests. The art is available for purchase, green light to proceed with construction on a
and the idea is to commission new pieces 25-room hotel designed by Chilean architect
regularly. Smiljan Radic. “I remember when we first
Many of the installations can be viewed started talking to Smiljan about this hotel,
as urgent calls for environmental action. our middle son was just this big,” Albar-
Three works by Swiss artist Claudia Comte rán says with a laugh, pointing down to hip
invite a reflection on the connection height. He’s now 19.
between climate change and Earth’s varied Floating above the treetops on a stilted
ecosystems: A visual explosion of curved concrete walkway, with rooms situated inside
lines and fiery color gradients, the Burn- a series of glass cylinders, the futuristic-
ing Sunset mural appears at risk of igniting looking hotel will reimagine high-end hospi-
the surrounding forest, while two leaf- and tality through the same lens of experimental
coral-shaped sculptures carved from milky- design as the residences. For now, it’s slated
white marble conjure the fragility of nature to debut in 2028. As for when the rest of the
on land and underwater. starchitect-designed holiday homes might
Perched on a nearby hill overlooking take shape, the couple is not committing to a
the Els Port Natural Park is Catalan artist hard-and-fast timeline.
Jordi Colomer’s No? Future! installation— “This is a lifelong project,” says Albarrán.
the famous Sex Pistols slogan rendered in a “And we’re just getting started,” Bourdais
marquee-style sign, complete with blinking adds with a smile. O

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I NITCOAT
M SAHE
E SD S
EUE PC A SA SEPTEMBER 2025 139
At Thom Sweeney, Eric
Twardzik is precisely
measured for a new suit.

140 THE FALL STYLE ISSUE

SEPTEMBER 2025
 Photographed by BEN ROSSER
By ERIC TWARDZIK

Fashion houses are

making a serious play for
bespoke tailors’ clientele
with swanky new digs for
made-to-measure.
Our intrepid writer tried
out the luxe services.

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SEPTEMBER 2025 141
I’m standing in a room accessible by private elevator, sip- Covid,” says Thom Sweeney cofounder Thom Whid-
ping Scotch cooled by hand-chiseled ice, and listening dett, listing factors including existing clients moving
intently as an immaculately dressed man presents me uptown to raise their families, the presence of well-
with a swatch of vicuña worth its weight in gold. Clas- heeled tourists, and the opening in the environs of the
sically, such a scene would have played out in a bespoke buzzy new members’ club Maxime’s, which requires
tailor’s atelier. Only I’m in the Prada men’s store on Fifth men to wear a jacket at all times.
Avenue—and in the market for made-to-measure. Robert Burke, founder and C.E.O. of an eponymous
Long existing in the shadow of bespoke, made-to- luxury consultancy, similarly sees the retail zeitgeist
measure (or MTM) has been cast as the second-best migrating north. “SoHo is a very different SoHo than
option for those without the money—or the time—to it was seven years ago,” he notes. “And the spend level
enjoy tailoring’s ultimate expression. Recent retail in SoHo is not what it is on Madison.” He views it as no
developments on Manhattan’s choicest shopping coincidence that the street’s renaissance is taking place
streets, however, are painting a different picture. as high-spending customers are increasingly drawn to
This past spring witnessed the opening of a new custom clothing.
Dolce & Gabbana flagship on Madison Avenue, fol- The key differentiation between bespoke and
lowed swiftly by the launch of a dedicated Prada MTM: In the former, an entirely new pattern will be
menswear store on Fifth. Aside from their uptown drafted, allowing for the most precise tweaks to the fit
addresses, each features a physical carve-out devoted and for potentially limitless options where styling is
to its house’s respective made-to-measure program. concerned. An MTM garment, by comparison, is built
Add in the news that fashion-forward British tai- from an existing pattern called a block, which may
lor Thom Sweeney—which has long championed its be adjusted to address jacket length, trouser rise, and
MTM creations with the same vigor that it promotes other concerns not easily accommodated by off-the-
its bespoke—has a new Madison outpost in the works rack alterations but starts from a preconfigured set of
for early next year, and the result is a luxury made-to- measurements rather than a client’s physical form.
measure corridor rapidly taking shape in Manhattan. Creating a new pattern from scratch is obviously
“It feels like where the energy has gone back to after harder work, and to ensure that it’s done properly,
 Thom Sweeney’s New
York store has the vibe
of a London men’s club.
Opposite, clockwise from
top: Twardzik and a tailor
discuss how a sample jacket
can be modified to
suit his physique and
posture; a completed order
form, which is handwritten
in the traditional manner;
a selection of the
brand’s eveningwear.

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“SOME PEOPLE DON’T HAVE THE PATIENCE TO THINK,
‘I’M GOING TO ORDER SOMETHING NOW AND
GET IT BACK IN THREE TO FOUR MONTHS.’ SIX WEEKS
THEY CAN UNDERSTAND, AND THEY’LL DO THAT.”

multiple fittings are required. As a result, the typical of people love,” says Whiddett, who opened the busi-
lead time for a bespoke commission can be months, ness in 2007 with fellow Savile Row–trained tailor
and longer still if you must wait for a traveling tailor to Luke Sweeney. While they began with bespoke, the
return to your city. duo launched an MTM program the following year. In
“It’s a commitment,” Burke says of bespoke. “It’s the nearly two decades since, Thom Sweeney has nar-
like a woman buying a couture gown.” rowed the gap between the two considerably by push-
A made-to-measure item, on the other hand, often ing its Italian MTM factory—which also produces the
arrives in just weeks, either completely finished or only brand’s ready-to-wear—to increasingly adopt the fea-
a few tweaks away from being worn out the door. But tures of its bespoke clothing, successfully mimicking
the divide is not all about timetables. Bespoke cloth- everything from the greater heft of a handsewn waist-
ing is typically made with a greater level of handwork, band to the razor sharpness of a hand-cut peaked lapel.
imparting a nearly imperceptible quality that can’t be Even so, Whiddett concedes that bespoke remains
replicated with a sewing machine more commonly the bigger prize. “Once you’ve had bespoke, it’s hard to
used on MTM. go back to made-to-measure,” he says. “It’s like flying
“It has that level of consistency where every [gar- private to first class.” As with air travel, the price differ-
ment] looks the same, whereas bespoke always has ential can be substantial. At Thom Sweeney, an MTM
a little more character and variance to it, which a lot suit starts at $3,325, while bespoke begins at $7,390.

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 points of view, so turning to one for MTM can also
advance a customer’s personal style. Burke relates
running into a friend who had long patronized Savile
Row but was sporting a new MTM suit from Giorgio
Armani, which he valued for being less fitted and
more draped, in keeping with the Italian designer’s
signature look.
“‘The reason I like it is because it’s modern made-
to-measure, not the classic made-to-measure,’” Burke
recalls his friend saying. “And I thought that was quite
interesting.”
Meanwhile, from the perspective of the brands
themselves, MTM provides plenty to recommend.
“It’s a new toy—something that you can dabble in—
and at the end of the day, everyone can be happy,” says
veteran menswear stylist Nick Wooster. “The retailers
are happy because they don’t have to invest in a lot of
excess inventory. The brands get more people wearing
their clothes and ideally looking good in them. It’s a
perfect calling card.”

M
y own made-to-measure adventure
begins on a humid June morning with
a first stop at Dolce & Gabbana at 695
Madison Avenue, which has turned a
section of its stark second floor into the
Sartoria, where a desk laden with fab-
ric books and sample collar shapes is ringed by hanging
examples of the house’s custom creations, executed in
eye-catching jacquards and brocades. That such flash
could be yours, I am reminded, is the value-add for vis-
iting a fashion house versus your tailor.
My remit is for a tuxedo shirt, and I start by study-
ing squares of slippery white fabric that look identical
to the naked eye before homing in on their minute
details: a tone-on-tone diamond pattern here, a tonal
double-stripe there. As I deliberate, a tray with branded
water glasses and espresso cups arrives. (I am told that
excellent margaritas are shaken at the fourth-floor bar
and lounge where MTM customers often congregate;
unfortunately, it is not even noon.)
I bandy about the idea of having a tux shirt made
from linen. While the textile is present on the table,
I am gently but firmly advised to remain within the
label’s black-tie aesthetic, which is structured, dra-
matic—and definitely not wrinkled. This, it occurs to
me, is the other side of the coin: When a fashion house
gives you the keys to their look, they also ask that you
not drive it off the road.
In agreement, I land on an extra-fine cotton twill
But Whiddett reels off a variety of reasons why a that might be sheer if not for the shirt’s piqué bib front.
client of bespoke means might choose MTM, relating Swiping through an iPad display of possible configu-
to both time and intention. “Some people don’t have rations, I choose a traditional French cuff and then an
the patience to think, ‘I’m going to order something ultra-traditional wing-tip collar, finishing what I assume
now and get it back in three to four months,’” he says. must be the dullest commission ever to come out of the
“Six weeks they can understand, and they’ll do that.” Sartoria. The salesman, unflinchingly polite, assures me
And with its lower barrier to entry, there’s also the that it is not. But it is very much in line with my own
At Dolce & Gabbana, opportunity to go bolder. Whiddett cites the recent predilections for the classic and the understated, less-
Twardzik confronts example of a client who elected to make his wedding ening the possibility I will suffer from buyer’s remorse.
some of the choices that tuxedo—a blue-chip wardrobe investment if there ever All that’s left now is the measuring, which occurs as I
commissioning a made-
was one—fully bespoke, while pulling the MTM trigger try on two different sample sizes, with the larger clearly
to-measure tuxedo
shirt entails. Opposite, from for a more casual linen jacket he planned to wear for the better fit. A seamstress pins back the extra fabric
left: A display in the brand’s welcome drinks the night before. while allowances are made for physical quirks like my
recently opened Madison “If it comes down to what you’re spending, I think dropped right shoulder, and the ideal roominess of the
Avenue store; the you could be a little bit more cavalier with something collar is divined. (I accept the salesman’s one-finger
writer getting fitted for his
shirt; more than a dozen
made-to-measure,” he continues. rule.) And with that, I bid the Sartoria ciao and make my
stud options. Fashion houses tend to have specific, more-forward way downtown to the not-yet-relocated Thom Sweeney.

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THE MEASURE OF A MAN SEPTEMBER 2025 145
 Top: A private suite within
With its blue billiards table, well-stocked wooden on my commission: I wish to reproduce an off-white Prada’s Fifth Avenue men’s
bar, and coterie of sharp-dressed men in jacket and wool, silk, and linen suit included in the label’s current boutique features a display
of leather goods and
tie, the atmosphere is less shop floor and more private spring-summer collection in my very non-ready-to- ready-to-wear elements for
men’s club. I’m introduced to tailor Richard Whatling, wear proportions. its specialized services.
who’s in from London to attend to MTM clients. While As I slip into a jacket from that very suit in my size, Above, from left: A sample of a
I wait for another fitting to wrap up, I peruse the hang- Whatling concurs that its block fits me well—a promis- Prada three-piece pinstripe
suit in cashmere and silk;
ing ready-to-wear assortment and must restrain myself ing early sign—with the exception of its obvious short- some of the brand’s
from brushing up against springy hopsacks, silky ness on my six-foot-one frame. He proposes adding an extensive selection of fabric
lambswools, and substantial sueded linens like a cat. inch to its length and points out where its amended swatches; silver and
In the process, I’m reminded of a certain advan- button stance will fall. Next are the trousers, which I enamel customizable cuff
links at the store. Opposite:
tage that MTM holds over bespoke: the ability to see, am unable to pull north of my pelvis owing to the mon-
The Thom Sweeney suit
and even try on, a good approximation of the final strous size of my calves, a physical abnormality result- arrives, needing just a few
item. So by the time Whatling calls me up, I’m settled ing from my left leg being a half inch shorter than the small tweaks.

146 THE FALL STYLE ISSUE

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 right. Whatling seems unperturbed and simply takes for. Watching me flounder, Whatling helpfully suggests
my leg measurements using the trousers I wore in. I opt for a flapped pocket, which can always be tucked
Then, the styling. A rack of sample jackets allows me into itself to appear jetted, should I prefer.
to see—and feel—the three different shoulder construc- With the fitting concluded, I’m told that the order
tions on offer: a lightly roped and padded option in the will go to Italy on Monday and that a completed gar-
more traditional British style; a soft, natural shoulder ment will be ready to fit in under six weeks—a timeline
inspired by Italian tailoring; and a completely unstruc- bespoke could never compete with.
tured make that fits like a shirt. I opt for the middle I skip back uptown, to the doors of Prada men’s at
one, mimicking the suit jacket I’ve tried on. Wearing it 720 Fifth Avenue. Upon arrival, I’m whisked upstairs
also allows me to see how its wider lapels, at a touch to where made-to-measure happens—a private suite—
over four inches, look on me. While I’d have objected and handed that glass of very good Scotch. I am begin-
to their broadness on paper, I like them in practice and ning to feel very important, even before the MTM
elect to keep the design over a narrower option. director draws the sliding doors that shut us off from
The last concern is the pockets, which often bedevil the rest of the 13,000-square-foot boutique.
me. I’d thought of going the patch route, as I appreciate The now-enclosed and heavily mirrored space, its
the lovely roundness with which Thom Sweeney cuts walls the same pillow-mint green that pervades the
the shape. But I’m beginning to be swayed by the exist- rest of the store, brings to mind the secret arsenal
ing jacket’s jetted pockets, not a detail I’d usually go where the protagonist is outfitted in a James Bond or
John Wick film. There are no weapons here, but the
goods that hang from the walls—silk-denim jackets,
double-faced cashmere coats, nappa-leather outer-
wear burnished by waxed finishes—feel just as lethal.
Of course, these dozens of garments are here only
WHILE I WAIT FOR ANOTHER FITTING TO WRAP UP, for reference purposes. The real action happens at a
I PERUSE THE READY-TO-WEAR ASSORTMENT AND long glass table, where the MTM director lays out fab-
ric books with the crisp efficiency of a seasoned casino
MUST RESTRAIN MYSELF FROM BRUSHING UP AGAINST dealer. From the brand’s signature Techno Stretch tex-
SPRINGY HOPSACKS, SILKY LAMBSWOOLS, tile to 24-karat-gold pinstripe suiting to 20 shades of
pure cashmere, it’s as if years’ worth of Prada collections
AND SUBSTANTIAL SUEDED LINENS LIKE A CAT. have been atomized into square swatches and pushed
into my hands, granting me the power to play God—or,
at least, Raf Simons. The samples alone are proof that
“MTM” and “luxury” belong in the same breath.

o, do New York’s bespoke tailors have some-

thing to worry about? Brand consultant and
stylist Larry Curran doesn’t think so, at least
where the fashion houses are concerned. “I
would encourage my clients to do the extra
fitting that a bespoke process might entail,”
he says, “rather than losing one fitting and getting a suit
that is going to cost basically what a bespoke suit can
from many really good tailors.”
Curran has a point: A made-to-measure Prada clas-
sic Tela Mohair suit, depending on the season, could
run $6,000, not far from the summits of bespoke. Ulti-
mately, the decision may come down to the same reason
that a traditional Savile Row customer visits Huntsman
over Anderson & Sheppard (or vice versa): because he
already appreciates the house’s cut and point of view.
“If Dolce & Gabbana is your jam, then that’s where
you should start,” Wooster says. “If it’s not, then maybe
a more classic tailor would be a better fit for you.”
At the end of July, I return to Thom Sweeney to try
on the almost-finished suit—and I’m delighted. The fit
is superb, with just a little more room needed below the
knee for my aforementioned calves, a slight shortening
of the sleeves, and a reduction of the jacket’s center
seam to account for my concave back. True to Whid-
dett’s word, there’s a satisfying heft to the waistband
that I haven’t experienced in a non-bespoke trouser
before, and I’m very taken with the wide, beautifully
rolled lapel that I may not have dared ask for had I not
had the opportunity to see it on a sample beforehand.
No matter where your made-to-measure journey
brings you, this much is clear: There has never been a
better time to stand still for the tailor. O

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SEPTEMBER 2025 147
The Download
Sometimes, no matter how smart, connected, built a reputation as a vintage connoisseur as
and well-resourced you are, you simply need well as a creative director, after working for
an expert—and not just any expert, but the everyone from Ralph Lauren to Armani over
rarefied insider who other specialists call his more than 35-year career. Currently, he’s
when they need help. Luckily, Robb Report helping Champion recapture some of its retro
has a roster of such world-class pros on speed cachet. Donadi’s own archive counts around
dial. We’re even rolling out a highly curated 15,000 pieces, which he will occasionally
directory of heavy hitters across categories: sell via his Transnomadica platform.
the Masters of Luxury. Have a conundrum you’d like to see solved?
This month, it’s Maurizio Donadi. He has Email [email protected].

T H E B I G Q U E ST I O N THE EXPERT

NAME: Maurizio Donadi

I’m an avid vintage collector. I want to find some great 1960s and ’70s workwear OCCUPATION: Creativ
e director
pieces, but I think they’re often overpriced. Where else can I look or ask someone and vintage collector
to look for me? HQ: Los Angeles

Y
SPECIALTY: Menswear
whispering
ou can still find the occasional standout piece at Pasadena’s Rose Bowl flea market in
California each month or at the marchés aux puces in Paris, says Donadi, as long as you go
shopping without preconceptions. But his approach to sourcing the best vintage requires a
little more resourcefulness—and travel.
Donadi runs a global network of about two dozen pickers, all based in emerging
nations, who look for key pieces on his behalf. In the 1980s and ’90s, he says, Western aid organizations
encouraged brands to donate clothing to help those countries as their economies stabilized; many EITHER | OR
American firms emptied out their warehouses full of deadstock in response. “The stuff was from the
1960s and ’70s, and they couldn’t even process what we sent—trillions of containers,” he explains.
Today, sought-after pieces might be on sale for pennies in local markets. His team will scour the stalls,
Khaki/Indigo
asking where other clothing vendors operate in countries like Indonesia, Ghana, or the Philippines.
Alternatively, Donadi suggests a trip to Eastern Europe. “The Berlin Wall came down in 1989, so there “At the moment, at least, because
was an incredible desire to dress as Western Europeans for all the Eastern-bloc countries,” he says. This it’s a great canvas for ideas.”
time, the surplus stock—mostly from European brands—was sold rather than donated. Think C. P.
Company and Stone Island. Now, thrift stores and clothing markets from Bulgaria to the Czech Republic Visible mending/Hidden repair
are groaning with castoffs. “You can find exceptional stuff from premium sportswear brands now.” “Because the eye of the expert
will understand it.”

SPEED ROUND Italian tailoring/Japanese utility

“They are obsessed with a level of
What’s the telltale sign a Can’t-fail vintage item? I wouldn’t call it repair, but detail and nuance.”
garment was made to last? “Fishtail parkas from the restoration—they know how Tool pocket/Elbow patch
“The quality of how the buttons Vietnam War. They were a to take a beautiful vintage
were attached. If you see one nylon, satin, and cotton mix— piece apart and rebuild it “It’s more functional and
of the buttons was replaced so beautiful, and the fabric using thread we cannot find offers true protection.”
with another one, maybe on a lasts forever.” anywhere in the Western
One of one/Limited edition
Carhartt or Filson jacket, look world. [On Instagram]
at the thread used to compare What’s your cutoff date for @nestofmanure, @naritabby, “Among billions of people,
it to the old one. Vintage quality collectibles? “To me, vintage and @studioginjirou are we are all one of one.”
was extraordinary.” ends in 1979. Production changed really good.”
then, when a lot of companies Raw denim/Sun-faded selvedge
Quickest way to deduce grew much bigger and were Holy-grail item you can’t “The fade tells me the story of the
whether or not a vintage looking for shortcuts to produce believe you found? “A true man that was wearing it.”
piece is reproduction or more and at a cheaper price.” artist’s smock—a chore jacket.
counterfeit? “A T-shirt with They use it all the time during Military surplus/Miner’s workwear
holes and tears in it, but it Under-the-radar tailor or the making of their art, so it’s
“I wear it all the time—the best
comes in every single size repair service for precious the most personal item. That
traveling clothes you can have.”
possible? That’s the fraud. garments? “The people who jacket becomes the colors of
Vintage is one of a kind.” do the best jobs are all in Japan. your entire life as an artist.”

148 THE FALL STYLE ISSUE

SEPTEMBER 2025 ILLUSTRATED BY Anje Jager