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E Y E W I T N E S S T R AV E L
TOP
MADRID CHRISTOPHER & MELANIE RICE
Top 10 Madrid The Top 10 of
Highlights Everything
Welcome to Madrid........................ 4 Moments in History ..................... 46
Exploring Madrid............................ 6 Museums and Galleries .............. 48
Madrid Highlights ........................ 10 Architectural Sights ..................... 50
Palacio Real.................................. 12 Off the Beaten Track.................... 52
Museo Nacional del Prado.......... 16 Parks and Gardens ...................... 56
Plaza Mayor.................................. 22 Children’s Attractions .................. 58
Monasterio de las Descalzas Sporting Venues ........................... 60
Reales ....................................... 24 Madrid for Free ............................ 62
El Rastro ....................................... 26 Entertainment Venues................. 64
Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza ...... 28 Bars .............................................. 66
Museo Nacional Centro Tapas Bars.................................... 68
de Arte Reina Sofía .................. 32
Restaurants.................................. 70
Parque del Retiro ......................... 36
Spanish Theme Shops................. 72
Museo de Arqueológica
Religious and Cultural
Nacional .................................... 38
Festivals .................................... 74
El Escorial .................................... 40
CONTENTS
Madrid Streetsmart
Area by Area
Around Paseo del Prado ............. 78 Getting To and Around
Salamanca and Recoletos........... 84 Madrid ....................................134
Downtown Madrid........................ 92 Practical Information .................136
Royal Madrid ..............................100 Places to Stay .............................142
Old Madrid ..................................106
Chueca and Malasaña ...............118 General Index .............................148
Comunidad de Madrid ...............126 Acknowledgments .....................156
Phrase Book...............................158
Welcome to
Madrid
Located right in the heart of Spain, Madrid’s attractions
include world-class art, a lavish royal palace, glorious
gardens and showpiece squares. It’s a place that fizzes with
energy and creativity, yet preserves plenty of old-fashioned
appeal. Contemporary art, dance and theatre thrive, while
traditional festivals bring Madrileños out in droves.
For all Madrid’s big-city bustle and glamour, it still feels surprisingly
intimate, thanks to the distinct neighbourhood appeal of its different
districts, and the friendliness of its inhabitants. Swanky Salamanca
has the fanciest restaurants and fashion boutiques, while La Latina
boasts the fantastic El Rastro flea market and atmospheric tapas
bars. Gritty Lavapiés is great for vintage stores and underground
bars, while boho-chic Chueca’s cocktail bars and cafés feature
regularly on the pages of glossy magazines.
You can walk in the footsteps of great writers such as Lope de Vega
and Cervantes in the Barrio de las Letras; visit a splendid convent for
blue-blooded nuns, the Monasterio de las Descalzas Reales; picnic
under the cherry blossom in the Parque Quinto de los Molinos; or
watch the sun set over the Guadarrama mountains. Shiver at Goya’s
“Black Paintings” in the Prado, or Picasso’s Guernica in the Museo
Nacional Centro de Arte Reina Sofía, and try to interpret the enigmatic
smile of the Lady of Elche in the Archaeological Museum. Once night
falls, don’t forget that Madrileños aren’t known as gatos (cats) for
nothing: you’ll dine late and party late in this city that never sleeps.
Whether you are visiting for a weekend or a week, our Top 10 guide
is designed to bring together the best of everything the city can
offer. It gives you tips throughout, from seeking out what’s free to
avoiding the crowds, plus nine easy-to-follow itineraries, designed
to combine a clutch of sights in a short space of time. Add inspiring
photography and detailed maps, and you’ve got the essential
pocket-sized travel companion. Enjoy the book, and enjoy Madrid.
Clockwise from top: View from Palacio de Cibeles; Old Madrid café; Catedrale de la Almudena;
park with almond blossoms; Museo Nacional Centro de Arte Reina Sofía; bridge over Rio
Manzanares
6 ❯❯ Top 10 Madrid
Exploring Madrid
Madrid packs in a fantastic array of museums and monu
ments, parks and gardens, plus great shopping, dining and
nightlife. You’ll be spoiled for choice for things to do, whatever
your interests and however long you spend in the city. Here
are some ideas for two and four days of sightseeing and fun
in beautiful Madrid.
C ECNETNRTOR O
Plaza
Plaza de deOpera Monasterio
Monasterio
de las
de las
Opera Metro
Metro Descalzas
Descalzas
Reales
Reales
Oriente
Oriente Station
Station
Palacio
Palacio
RealReal
SOL
SOL
Mercado
Mercado
de de Plaza
Plaza
Mayor
Mayor
SanSan
Miguel
Miguel
Plaza Mayor is the city’s METMET
grandest and most AUS
AUST RTI A
R ISA S RO RO
famous square.
Museo
Museo
CHCUEC
HUECA A Arqueológico
Arqueológico
Nacional
Nacional
Mallorca
Mallorca
R ERECO
CO L ETO S S
L E TO
El Escorial is a
magnificent
Museo
Museo Thyssen-
Thyssen- Parque
Parque complex of
Bornemisza
Bornemisza deldel
Retiro
Retiro royal palace,
basilica and
monastery.
Paseo
Paseo
deldel Museo
Museo
Nacional
Nacional
Prado
Prado deldel Prado
Prado
CORTES
CORTES
Atocha
Atocha
Metro
Metro
Station
Station
Museo
Museo
Nacional
Nacional
Centro
Centro
de Arte
de Arte
Reina
Reina
Sofía
Sofía
0 metres
0 metres 500500
0 yards
0 yards 500500
Madrid Highlights
Madrid’s three world-class art museums and two royal palaces
alone would set pulses racing, but there is more to this exciting
and diverse capital than its tourist sights, from the high-fashion
boutiques of Salamanca to Madrid’s world-famous tapas. To
simply watch the world go by, head for the supremely elegant
Plaza Mayor.
C . I N C EA
C. INCE
P RD E S A
PR
AR DO
CA LL E DEDO
DE S A
CA E
CA M AL ASAÑ A
M AL ASAÑA
CA LL E DE
LA
L
AR
LL DE
LL
SA N BE RN
SA N BE RN
DE FER
PLAZAPLAZA
DE DE
ESPAÑAE
ESPAÑA TE G G
FE AZ
T
EN CEN
RR
R RA RA
VIC VI
AZ
N N
AL E
H O A L LL E Z E
R T E DA
N N
C TA D
EZ
SA E SA
R E
DE D VI VI
HO ALL
A A A A
E ST EST
C
CU CU PLAZA
PLAZA DE DE
G R AGNR AVNI A V I A
CALLAO
CALLAO
C ENTR
C ENTR O O
N
N
BAILE
BAILE
PLAZA
PLAZA DE DE PLAZA
ORIENTEPLAZA DE DE
ORIENTE ISABEL
ISABEL II II DE DE
L EA L L E
C A LC
PUERTA
PUERTA
DEL DEL
SOL SOL
M A YMOARY O R
S
E
LLE LL SOSOL
L
DE
CA CA
DE
Palacio Real
CA CA
PLAZAPLAZA
DE DE IAT IATA
residence of Spain’s Bourbon LA PAJA
LA PAJA A
C . D EC . M
DAE GM
DAE LGEDNEAL E N A
L AVAP
L AVAP I É SIÉ S
C.
C.
E
LL
Museo Nacional
LL
DE
DE
2
CA
PLAZA
DE DE
EM
PLAZA
EM
del Prado
LAVAPIÉS
LAVAPIÉS
BA
BA
C
JA
JA
DO
DO
S
S
Plaza Mayor
This magnificent square, now lined
3
with shops, has been the focal point of
the city for centuries (see pp22–3).
4 Monasterio de las
Descalzas Reales
This royal convent was founded in
the 16th century for the daughters
of the aristocracy, whose wealthy
5 Museo Thyssen-
Bornemisza
families donated many fabulous Madrid was the envy of the world
works of art (see pp24–5). when it outbid the Getty Foundation
and others for
this priceless
collection of
European art,
which attracts
three-quarters of
a million visitors
every year (see
pp28–31).
Madrid Highlights ❮❮ 11
7 Museo
Reina Sofía
No visitor should miss
Picasso’s Guernica,
the world’s most
6 ElTheRastro
roots of
famous 20th-century
painting. This fabulous
Madrid’s famous flea museum also show-
market go back more cases many other
than 400 years (see modern Spanish
pp26–7). greats (see pp32–5).
TO S
OS
LE T
OLE
SE RR ANDE
SE RR ANDE
O
CA LL E O
8
REC
CA LL E
ZA
CHCH
U EUE
C AC A
E R
DE
RECOL
RECOL ETOS
ETOS
EO
E
PLAZA
PLAZA DE LA
DE LA
PLAZA
PLAZA DE DE INDEPENDENCIA
INDEPENDENCIA
LA CIBELES
LA CIBELES
the city is now enjoyed
by visitors and
PRA DEL
EL
ALC AAL A
A LC A L
EO D
DO
PA S A D O
EO
Madrileños
PR
PA S
CAR CARR
S A N SJAR N
ERA ERA D
E RDOEN E (natives) alike
CALLE
CALLE
E R OJ N
I M O I M O PLAZA
PLAZA
DE DE
CANOVAS
CANOVAS (see pp36–7).
DEL DEL CASTILLO
CASTILLO
DE
DE
CO RT
CORT ESES
PA S E A D O
PA S E A D O
PR DEL
PR
O DE
O
ALFONSO
ALFONSO
CA CA
L
LL LLE
E
DE DE
AT AT O
OC C
HA HA
XII
XII
9 Museo
PLAZA
PLAZA DEL DEL
EMPERADOR
EMPERADOR
Arqueológico
CARLOS
CARLOS V V
C . D EC . D E A
ARGU RGU
MO MO
Nacional
SA SA
0 metres
0 metres 500500
This vast archaeological
0 yards
0 yards 500500 museum is home to over
Guadarrama 300,000 dazzling art-
Collado Villalba works and artifacts, now
displayed to best effect in
A1
a superbly renovated
AP6
M50
Las Rozas
de Madrid
setting (see pp38–9).
5
M503
Madrid
0 km 20
0 miles 10
Villaverde
0 ElSetEscorial
against the stunning backdrop
of the Sierra de Guadarrama mountains,
Felipe II’s awe-inspiring palace, basilica
and monastery complex was founded as
a mausoleum for Spain’s Habsburg
rulers (see p40–43).
12 ❯❯ Top 10 Madrid Highlights
Palacio Real
Madrid’s fabulous Royal Palace is one of Europe’s outstanding
architectural monuments. More than half of the state apartments
are open to the public, sumptuously decorated with silk wall
hangings, frescoes and gilded stucco, and crammed with priceless
objets d’art. The palace’s setting is equally breathtaking: beyond
the main courtyard (Plaza de la Armería) lies an uninterrupted
vista of park and woodland, stretching to the majestic peaks of the
Sierra de Guadarrama.
Façade 1
Stand for a few
moments on Plaza de
Oriente to enjoy the
splendour of Sacchetti’s
façade (right), gleaming in
the sun. Sacchetti
achieved a rhythm by
alternating Ionic columns
with Tuscan pilasters.
3 Hall of Columns
Once the setting for balls and banquets, this
room is still used for ceremonial occasions, with
Giaquinto’s fresco of Carlos III (shown as the sun
god Apollo) and superb 17th-century silk tapestries.
2 Main Staircase
When Napoleon
Throne Room
This room (right)
4
first saw the exquisite was designed for Charles
frescoes on the staircase III by Giovanni Battista
(above) after installing Natale as a glorification of
his brother on the the Spanish monarchy.
Spanish throne, he said The bronze lions that
“Joseph, your lodgings guard the throne were
will be better than mine”. made in Rome in 1651.
5 Gasparini
Room
Plan of Palacio Real
6 7
Named after its Italian
creator, this dazzling 5
room (left) was 1
Charles III’s robing 0
2
room. The lovely 3
ceiling, encrusted
4
with stuccoed fruit
and flowers, is a 8
superb example
of 18th-century
chinoiserie.
9
8 The Royal
Library
Founded by King Felipe V
in 1712, the Royal Library
contains more than
20,000 articles, including
Isabel I of Castile’s
Book of Hours, a Bible
which belonged to Doña
María de Molina, and a
volume of Scriptures
from the era of Alfonso
XI of Castile.
9 Armoury
The royal armoury boasts more
than 2,000 pieces, mostly made for
jousts and tournaments rather than
for the battlefield, as well as
instruments of torture dating from the
days of the Spanish Inquisition.
0 Jardines
Moro
del Campo del
These gardens were landscaped in the
6 Gala Dining Room
The banqueting hall (above) was
19th century and planted with acacias,
chestnuts, magnolias, cedars and palms.
created for the wedding of Alfonso XII Stand on the avenue to be rewarded
in 1879. The tapestries and ceiling with views of the palace’s façade.
frescoes are by Anton Mengs and
Diego Velázquez. Look out for the
Chinese vases “of a thousand flowers” BUILDING THE PALACE
in the window recesses. The palace stands on the site of the
Alcázar, the 9th-century Muslim castle.
7 Royal Chapel
Ventura Rodríguez is usually
In 1734 the wooden structure burned
down and Philip V commissioned Italian
credited with the decoration of this architect Filippo Juvarra, then Giovanni
chapel, although he worked hand- Sachetti, to design a replacement. Work
began in 1738 and was completed in
in-hand with other collaborators. The
1764. However, the present king Felipe
dome, supported by massive columns
VI prefers to live at the Palacio de la
of black marble, is illuminated with Zarzuela outside the city.
some more of Giaquinto’s frescoes.
14 ❯❯ Top 10 Madrid Highlights
2 Vertumnus and
Pomona Tapestries 4 60
These exquisite tapestries in the 8
Gala Dining Room were made in
Brussels by Willem de Panne-
maker in the mid-16th century. Palacio Real
Floorplan
3 Porcelain
Among the royal porcelain
8 Boabdil’s Dagger
are some fine examples of Sèvres This beautiful jewelled dagger
and Meissen dinnerware. in the Armoury belonged to the 15th-
century Muslim ruler Muhammad
XII, also known as Boabdil.
9 Giaquinto’s Apollo
Corrado Giaquinto’s fresco
on the ceiling of the Hall of Columns
depicts Carlos III as the sun god
Apollo, riding in his chariot across
the heavens.
5 Goya Portraits
The quartet of portraits by
Goya depicting Carlos IV and his wife
Maria Luisa show the queen
as a Spanish maja (beauty).
7 Chronos Clock
Made for Carlos IV in 1799,
this contains a marble sculpture of
Chronos, representing time. Tiepolo’s frescoes, Throne Room
Palacio Real ❮❮ 15
1 St Dominic
Presiding
Jacob’s Dream
José de Ribera
3
over an Auto-de-Fé (15911652) reveals
Spanish artist Pedro his mastery in Jacob’s
Berruguete (c.1445– Dream (right), a painting
1503) was influenced by relating to Jacob the
the Italians. This painting Patriarch’s mysterious
from around 1495 shows dream as told in the
St Dominic sitting in Genesis. This artwork
judgment with members (c.1639) displays José’s
of the Inquisition. excellent compositional
ability and his delicate
sense of colour.
4 Nude Maja
This famous
portrait (c.1795–1800)
by Francisco Goya (1746– 6 Las Meninas
This virtuoso exer
1828) is one of the rare cise in perspective (1656)
examples of a nude in a is by Diego Velázquez
Spanish painting of the (1599–1660). Flanking
time. It is one of a pair – the Infanta Margarita
the Clothed Maja is in (below) are two ladies
the same room for inwaiting (las Meninas).
comparison. The scene also includes
the artist, with paintbrush
5 Holy Family
with Little Bird
and palette in hand.
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