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 Multifunctional
Cosmetics
edited by

Randy Schueller and Perry Romanowski

Alberto Culver Company
Melrose Park, Illinois, U.S.A.

Marcel Dekker, Inc. New York • Basel

TM

Copyright © 2001 by Marcel Dekker, Inc. All Rights Reserved.

CRC Press
Taylor & Francis Group
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 COSMETIC SCIENCE AND TECHNOLOGY

Series Editor
ERIC JUNGERMANN
Jungermann Associates, Inc.
Phoenix, Arizona

1. Cosmetic and Drug Preservation: Principles and Practice, edited by

Jon J. Kabara
2. The Cosmetic Industry: Scientific and Regulatory Foundations, edited
by Norman F. Estrin
3. Cosmetic Product Testing: A Modern Psychophysical Approach,
Howard R. Moskowitz
4. Cosmetic Analysis: Selective Methods and Techniques, edited by P.
Boré
5. Cosmetic Safety: A Primer for Cosmetic Scientists, edited by James H.
Whittam
6. Oral Hygiene Products and Practice, Morton Pader
7. Antiperspirants and Deodorants, edited by Karl Laden and Carl B.
Felger
8. Clinical Safety and Efficacy Testing of Cosmetics, edited by William C.
Waggoner
9. Methods for Cutaneous Investigation, edited by Robert L. Rietschel
and Thomas S. Spencer
10. Sunscreens: Development, Evaluation, and Regulatory Aspects, edited
by Nicholas J. Lowe and Nadim A. Shaath
11. Glycerine: A Key Cosmetic Ingredient, edited by Eric Jungermann and
Norman O. V. Sonntag
12. Handbook of Cosmetic Microbiology, Donald S. Orth
13. Rheological Properties of Cosmetics and Toiletries, edited by Dennis
Laba
14. Consumer Testing and Evaluation of Personal Care Products, Howard
R. Moskowitz
15. Sunscreens: Development, Evaluation, and Regulatory Aspects. Sec-
ond Edition, Revised and Expanded, edited by Nicholas J. Lowe, Na-
dim A. Shaath, and Madhu A. Pathak
16. Preservative-Free and Self-Preserving Cosmetics and Drugs:
Principles and Practice, edited by Jon J. Kabara and Donald S. Orth
17. Hair and Hair Care, edited by Dale H. Johnson
18. Cosmetic Claims Substantiation, edited by Louise B. Aust
19. Novel Cosmetic Delivery Systems, edited by Shlomo Magdassi and
Elka Touitou
20. Antiperspirants and Deodorants: Second Edition, Revised and Ex-
panded, edited by Karl Laden
21. Conditioning Agents for Hair and Skin, edited by Randy Schueller and
Perry Romanowski
22. Principles of Polymer Science and Technology in Cosmetics and Per-
sonal Care, edited by E. Desmond Goddard and James V. Gruber
23. Cosmeceuticals: Drugs vs. Cosmetics, edited by Peter Elsner and
Howard I. Maibach
24. Cosmetic Lipids and the Skin Barrier, edited by Thomas Förster
25. Skin Moisturization, edited by James J. Leyden and Anthony V. Raw-
lings
26. Multifunctional Cosmetics, edited by Randy Schueller and Perry Roma-
nowski

ADDITIONAL VOLUMES IN PREPARATION

About the Series

The Cosmetic Science and Technology series was conceived to permit discussion
of a broad range of current knowledge and theories of cosmetic science and tech-
nology. The series is composed of both books written by a single author and edited
volumes with a number of contributors. Authorities from industry, academia, and
the government participate in writing these books.
The aim of the series is to cover the many facets of cosmetic science and
technology. Topics are drawn from a wide spectrum of disciplines ranging from
chemistry, physics, biochemistry, and analytical and consumer evaluations to
safety, efficacy, toxicity, and regulatory questions. Organic, inorganic, physical
and polymer chemistry, emulsion and lipid technology, microbiology, dermatol-
ogy, and toxicology all play important roles in cosmetic science.
There is little commonality in the scientific methods, processes, and formu-
lations required for the wide variety of cosmetics and toiletries in the market.
Products range from preparations for hair, oral, and skin care to lipsticks, nail pol-
ishes and extenders, deodorants, body powders and aerosols, to quasi-pharmaceu-
tical over-the-counter products such as antiperspirants, dandruff shampoos,
antimicrobial soaps, and acne and sun screen products.
Cosmetics and toiletries represent a highly diversified field involving many
subsections of science and “art.” Even in these days of high technology, art and
intuition continue to play an important part in the development of formulations,
their evaluations, selection of raw materials, and, perhaps most importantly, the
successful marketing of new products. The application of more sophisticated sci-
entific methodologies that gained steam in the 1980s has increased in such areas
as claim substantiation, safety testing, product testing, and chemical analysis and

iii
iv About the Series

has led to a better understanding of the properties of skin and hair. Molecular mod-
eling techniques are beginning to be applied to data obtained in skin sensory stud-
ies.
Emphasis in the Cosmetic Science and Technology series is placed on
reporting the current status of cosmetic technology and science and changing reg-
ulatory climates and presenting historical reviews. The series has now grown to 26
books dealing with the constantly changing technologies and trends in the cos-
metic industry, including globalization. Several of the volumes have been trans-
lated into Japanese and Chinese. Contributions range from highly sophisticated
and scientific treatises to primers and presentations of practical applications.
Authors are encouraged to present their own concepts as well as established theo-
ries. Contributors have been asked not to shy away from fields that are in a state
of transition, nor to hesitate to present detailed discussions of their own work.
Altogether, we intend to develop in this series a collection of critical surveys and
ideas covering diverse phases of the cosmetic industry.
The 13 chapters in Multifunctional Cosmetics cover multifunctional prod-
ucts for hair, nail, oral, and skin care, as well as products with enhanced sunscreen
and antimicrobial properties. Several chapters deal with the development of claim
support data, the role of packaging, and consumer research on the perception of
multifunctional cosmetic products. The authors keep in mind that in the case of
cosmetics, it is not only the physical effects that can be measured on the skin or
hair, but also the sensory effects that have to be taken into account. Cosmetics can
have a psychological and social impact that cannot be underestimated.
I want to thank all the contributors for participating in this project and par-
ticularly the editors, Perry Romanowski and Randy Schueller, for conceiving,
organizing, and coordinating this book. It is the second book that they have con-
tributed to this series and we appreciate their efforts. Special thanks are due to
Sandra Beberman and Erin Nihill of the editorial and production staff at Marcel
Dekker, Inc. Finally, I would like to thank my wife, Eva, without whose constant
support and editorial help I would not have undertaken this project.

Eric Jungermann, Ph.D.

Preface

In the last several years our industry has seen a shift toward the widespread accep-
tance of, and even demand for, products that offer more than one primary benefit. A
variety of technological and marketing factors have contributed to this shift. From
a technological standpoint, improved raw materials and formulation techniques
have improved the formulator’s ability to create products that can accomplish mul-
tiple tasks. In fact, certain performance attributes that were at one time viewed as
incompatible or mutually exclusive (such as simultaneous shampooing and condi-
tioning of hair or concurrent cleansing and moisturizing of skin) are now routinely
delivered by single products. From a business perspective, changing marketing tac-
tics have also played a role in the escalation of product functionality. Marketers
have become increasingly bold in their attempts to differentiate their products from
those of their competitors. Thus, products that claim to have three-in-one function-
ality attempt to outdo those that are merely two-in-ones. For these reasons, among
others, it has become important for cosmetic chemists to understand how to develop
and evaluate multifunctional personal care formulations.
In this book we discuss multifunctional cosmetics from a variety of view-
points. First, and most fundamentally, we attempt to define what constitutes a mul-
tifunctional product. The first two chapters establish the definitions and guidelines
that are used throughout the book. The next several chapters describe the role of
multifunctionality in key personal care categories. Three chapters are devoted to
hair care, with special emphasis on one of the most influential types of multifunc-
tional products, the two-in-one shampoo. In the last several years, two-in-ones
have risen to an estimated 20% of the shampoo market, and we can trace the his-
tory and technical functionality of these formulations. Other multifunctional hair

v
vi Preface

care products we explore include those designed to deliver, enhance, or prolong

color as they clean or condition hair.
Chapters 5–7, 9 delve into the role of multifunctional products in skin care.
After an overview of the category we discuss the growing importance of shower
gels and bath products that claim to cleanse and moisturize skin in one simple step.
We also address how facial care products can perform multiple functions such as
cleansing, conditioning, and coloring. We then discuss how antiperspirant/deodor-
ant products use dually functional formulas to control body odor. Chapter 7 dis-
cusses the relatively new area of cosmeceuticals—products that have both drug and
pharmaceutical functionality.
While the book is primarily concerned with hair and skin care products, one
chapter is devoted to oral care. There is a clear trend in this category toward prod-
ucts that perform more than one function; for example, toothpaste formulations
have gone beyond simple cleansing by adding functionality against cavities, tar-
tar, plaque, and gingivitis.
The next two chapters focus on specific functional categories. We discuss
how to add moisturizing or conditioning functionality to products that have
another primary functionality. For example, Chapter 9 deals with expanding prod-
uct functionality by adding sunscreen protection; Chapter 10 describes how to
include antibacterial properties in a product.
The last three chapters describe some of the executional details one should
be aware of when creating multifunctional products. We discuss general consider-
ations related to formulation and how to design and implement tests for support-
ing claims. We also cover legal considerations, particularly with respect to OTC
monographs, in which covering more than one function can lead to problems. The
final chapter is devoted to the role of packaging in multifunctional products.

Randy Schueller
Perry Romanowski
Contents

About the Series (Eric Jungermann) iii

Preface v
Contributors ix

1. Definition and Principles of Multifunctional Cosmetics 1

Perry Romanowski and Randy Schueller

2. Factors to Consider When Designing Formulations with

Multiple Functionality 13
Mort Westman

3. Multifunctional Ingredients in Hair Care Products 29

Damon M. Dalrymple, Ann B. Toomey, and Uta Kortemeier

4. Multifunctional Shampoo: The Two-in-One 63

Michael Wong

5. Aspects of Multifunctionality in Skin Care Products

Johann W. Wiechers

6. Multifunctional Nail Care Products 99

Francis Busch
vii
viii Contents

7. Cosmeceuticals: Combining Cosmetic and

Pharmaceutical Functionality 115
Billie L. Radd

8. Multifunctional Oral Care Products 139

M. J. Tenerelli

9. Sun Protectants: Enhancing Product Functionality

with Sunscreens 145
Joseph W. Stanfield

10. Approaches for Adding Antibacterial Properties to

Cosmetic Products 161
Jeffrey Easley, Wilma Gorman, and Monika Mendoza

11. Claims Support Strategies for Multifunctional Products 177

Lawrence A. Rheins

12. The Role of Packaging in Multifunctional Products 191

Craig R. Sawicki

13. Consumer Research and Concept Development for

Multifunctional Products 209
Shira P. White

Index 229
Contributors

Francis Busch Founder, ProStrong, Inc., Oakville, Connecticut, U.S.A.

Damon M. Dalrymple Senior Research Scientist, New Product Development,

ABITEC Corporation, Columbus, Ohio, U.S.A.

Jeffrey Easley Senior Technology Transfer Specialist, Product Development,

Stepan Company, Northfield, Illinois, U.S.A.

Wilma Gorman Senior Technology Transfer Specialist, Stepan Company,

Northfield, Illinois, U.S.A.

Uta Kortemeier Degussa Care Chemicals, Essen, Germany

Monika Mendoza Stepan Company, Northfield, Illinois, U.S.A.

Billie L. Radd President, BLR Consulting Services, Naperville, Illinois, U.S.A.

Lawrence A. Rheins Founder, Executive Vice President, DermTech Interna-

tional, San Diego, California, U.S.A.

ix
x Contributors

Perry Romanowski Project Leader, Research and Development, Alberto Cul-

ver, Melrose Park, Illinois, U.S.A.

Craig R. Sawicki Executive Vice President, Design and Development, Tricor-

Braun, Clarendon Hills, Illinois, U.S.A.

Randy Schueller Manager, Global Hair Care, Research and Development,

Alberto Culver, Melrose Park, Illinois, U.S.A.

Joseph W. Stanfield Founder and President, Suncare Research Laboratories,

LLC, Memphis, Tennessee, U.S.A.

M. J. Tenerelli Writer and Editor, Upland Editorial, East Northport, New York,
U.S.A.

Ann B. Toomey Goldschmidt, Dublin, Ohio, U.S.A.

Mort Westman President, Westman Associates, Inc., Oak Brook, Illinois,

U.S.A.

Shira P. White President, The SPWI Group, New York, New York, U.S.A.

Johann W. Wiechers Principal Scientist and Skin Research and Development

Manager, Skin Research and Development, Uniqema, Gouda, The Netherlands

Michael Wong* Clairol, Inc., Stamford, Connecticut, U.S.A.

* Retired.
1
Definition and Principles
of Multifunctional Cosmetics

Perry Romanowski and Randy Schueller

Alberto Culver, Melrose Park, Illinois, U.S.A.

A popular late-night comedy television program once made a joke about a product
that was a combination floor wax and dessert topping. While this is a humorous
example, it does support the central point of this book: consumers love products
that can do more than one thing. This is a critical principle that formulating
chemists should learn to exploit when designing new products and when seeking
new claims for existing products. If formulators can create products that excite the
consumer by performing more than one function, these products are more likely to
succeed in the marketplace. In fact, in many cases, creating products with more than
one function is no longer a luxury, it is a necessity that is mandated by consumers.
This book is written to share with the reader some approaches for formulat-
ing and evaluating multifunctional products. But first, to provide a conceptual
framework for our discussion, we must state what the term “multifunctionality”
means in the context of personal care products. The opening section of this chap-
ter define the term by describing four different dimensions of multifunctionality.
We then discuss three key reasons why this trend is so important to this industry.
On the basis of this conceptual foundation, the remainder of the chapter provides
an overview of the specific product categories discussed throughout the book.

1
2 Romanowski and Schueller

While the reader may have an intuitive sense of what multifunctionality is,
there is no single, universally accepted definition. Therefore, we begin by attempt-
ing to develop a few standard definitions. We hope to better define the concept by
discussing four different dimensions of multifunctionality: performance-oriented
multifunctionality, ingredient-based multifunctionality, situational multifunction-
ality, and claims-driven multifunctionality.

1 PERFORMANCE-ORIENTED MULTIFUNCTIONALITY
Multifunctionality based on performance is probably the type that first comes to
mind. Products employing this type of multifunctionality are unequivocally
designed to perform two separate functions. One of the most obvious examples of
this kind of multifunctionality is the self-proclaimed two-in-one shampoo that is
intended to simultaneously cleanse and condition hair. This type of formulation
was pioneered by Proctor & Gamble with Pert Plus in the late 1970s. Pert contains
ammonium lauryl sulfate as the primary cleansing agent, along with silicone fluid
and cationic polymers as the conditioning ingredients. Proctor & Gamble
researchers found a way to combine these materials in a way that allows concur-
rent washing and conditioning of the hair. The result is a product that is able to
offer consumers the legitimate benefit of saving time in the shower because it
eliminates the need for a separate conditioner. Thus Pert has become a classic
example of a multifunctional personal care product.
In a somewhat different context, antiperspirant/deodorants (APDs) also
exhibit multifunctional performance. To appreciate this example, the reader must
understand that “antiperspirant/deodorants” are very different from “deodorants.”
Deodorants are designed solely to reduce body odor through use of fragrance that
masks body odor and antibacterial agents that control the growth of odor-causing
microbes. Because they are designed to reduce odor only, deodorant are mono-
functional products. Antiperspirants, on the other hand, contain active ingredients
(various aluminum salts) that physiologically interact with the body to reduce the
amount of perspiration produced. Because these aluminum compounds also help
control bacterial growth, antiperspirants are truly multifunctional: they control
body odor and reduce wetness. In this context, it is interesting to note that all
antiperspirants are deodorants but not all deodorants are antiperspirants. We also
point out that since these aluminum salts are responsible both product functions,
they could be considered multifunctional ingredients—this type of multifunction-
ality is discussed later in the chapter.
This principle of performance-oriented multifunctionality has been applied
to almost every class of cosmetic product. For example, the number of makeup
products that make therapeutic claims is increasing. One trade journal, Global
Cosmetics Industry, noted three cosmetic products that combine the benefit of a
Definitions and Principles 3

foundation makeup with a secondary benefit. Avon’s Beyond Color Vertical Lift-
ing Foundation is also said to be effective against sagging facial skin, Clinique
claims that The City Cover Compact Concealer also protects skin from sun dam-
age, and Elizabeth Arden’s Flawless Finish Hydro Light Foundation adds
ceramides, sunscreen, and an α-hydroxy acid (AHA) to smooth and protect skin.
Global Cosmetics Industry anticipates that the combination of multifunctional
claims, combined with strong brand names and affordable prices, will allow such
products to thrive in the coming years. A number of other examples are cited in
Tables 1–8.

TABLE 1 Multifunctional Hair Care Products and Manufacturers’ Claims

Pert Plus Shampoo and Conditioner

Provides a light level of conditioning
Gently cleanses the hair
L’Oréal Colorvive Conditioner
Up to 45% more color protection
Keeps color truer, hair healthier
Conditions without dulling or weighing hair down
Ultra Swim Shampoo Plus
Effectively removes chlorine and chlorine odor
With rich moisturizing conditioners
Jheri Redding Flexible Hold Hair Spray
Holds any hair style in place flexibly
Leaves hair so healthy it shines

TABLE 2 Multifunctional Soaps and Bath Products and Manufacturers’

Claims

Dove Nutrium
Restores and nourishes
Dual formula
Skin-nourishing body wash
Goes beyond cleansing and moisturizing to restore and nourish
FaBody Wash
Moisturizers that feed the body and exotic fragrances that fuel the
senses
Nourishes the skin
Cleans without drying
Dial Anti bacterial Hand Sanitizier
Contains moisturizers
Kills some germs
4 Romanowski and Schueller

TABLE 3 Multifunctional Skin Care Products and Manufacturers’ Claims

Body @ Best All of You Gel Lotion

White lotion and clear red glitter
To moisturize and give a hint of glitter
Biore Facial Cleansing Cloth
Cleanses
Exfoliates
Noxema Skin Cleanser
Cleanses
Moisturizes
Nair Three-in-One cream
Depiliates
Exfoliates
Moisturizes

TABLE 4 Multifunctional Makeup Products and Manufacturers’ Claims

L’Oréal Hydra Perfect Concealer

Foundation makeup
Protects and hydrates with a sun-protection factor (SPF) factor of 12
Revlon Age-Defying All-Day Lifting Foundation
Helps visibly lift fine lines away
Skin looks smoother and softer
Ultraviolet protection helps prevent new lines from forming
L’Oréal Color Riche Luminous Lipstick
Rich color with lasting shine
Moisturizes for hours, enriched with vitamin E
Hydrating lip color
Almay Three-in-One Color Stick
Accents lips, cheeks, and eyes in a few quick strokes
The perfect tool that does it all
Moisturizing color glides on smoothly
Neutrogena Skin Clearing Makeup
Actually clears blemishes
Controls shine and is a foundation makeup

TABLE 5 Multifunctional AntiPerspirant/Deodorant Products

and Manufacturers’ Claims

Mitchum Super Sport Clear Gel Antiperspirant and Deodorant

Antibacterial odor protection
Clinically proven to provide maximum protection against wetness
Arrid XX Antiperspirant Gel
Antibacterial formula works to help kill germs
Advanced wetness protection
Definitions and Principles 5

TABLE 6 Multifunctional Nail Care Products and Manufacturers’ Claims

Sally Hanson Hard As Nails

Helps prevent chipping splitting and breaking
Enhances color
Restructurizing strengthens and grows nails
Moisturizing protection and ultrahardening formula
Sally Hanson Double-Duty Strengthening Base and Topcoat
All-in-one moisturizing basecoat
Protective shiny topcoat

TABLE 7 Multifunctional Oral Care Products and Manufacturers’ Claims

Colgate Total
Helps prevent
Cavities
Gingivitis
Plaque
Crest Multi-Care
Fights cavities
Protects against cavities
Fights tartar buildup
Leaves breath feeling refreshed
Aqua-Fresh Triple Protection
Cavity protection
Tartar control
Breath freshening
Arm & Hammer’s Dental Care Baking Soda Gum
Whitens teeth
Freshens breath
Reduces plaque by 25%
Listerine antiseptic mouthwash
Kills germs that cause
Bad breath
Plaque
Gingivitis
Polydent Double-Action Denture Cleanser
Cleans tough stains
Controls denture odor
Keeps user feeling clean all day
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