0% found this document useful (0 votes)
41 views35 pages

V-Spooler 1.0 Assembly Instructions

The document provides detailed assembly instructions for the V-Spooler 1.0, including a list of required components and optional build items. It outlines the assembly process step-by-step, highlighting the installation of various parts and the use of specific screws and inserts. Additionally, it offers tips for upgrades and maintenance, ensuring a successful build and operation of the V-Spooler.

Uploaded by

kryczka345
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
Available Formats
Download as PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
0% found this document useful (0 votes)
41 views35 pages

V-Spooler 1.0 Assembly Instructions

The document provides detailed assembly instructions for the V-Spooler 1.0, including a list of required components and optional build items. It outlines the assembly process step-by-step, highlighting the installation of various parts and the use of specific screws and inserts. Additionally, it offers tips for upgrades and maintenance, ensuring a successful build and operation of the V-Spooler.

Uploaded by

kryczka345
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
Available Formats
Download as PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
You are on page 1/ 35

V-Spooler 1.

0 Assembly Instructions
Required Components
New V-Spooler Beta 4 - 8.1 Upgrade
• M3 inserts (or same sized M3x5.7) • M3 inserts (or same sized M3x5.7)
x61 x43
• 608 bearings x20 • 693zz bearings x4
• 693zz bearings x4 • 0.5 x 7 x 12mm helical compression
• 0.5 x 7 x 12mm helical compression spring x1
spring x1 • M3 lock nuts x2
• M3x8 screws x18 • M3x8 screws x10
• M3x12 screws x1 • M3x16 screws x28
• M3x16 screws x31 • M3 washers x13
• M3x20 screws x8
• M3x25 screws x4
• M3 washers x65
• M3 lock nuts x2
• PTFE tube with 4mm outside
diameter

The helical compression spring can be easily sourced at Bambu Lab at the following links
US/EU/UK/AU/CA/Global.

Please note that inserts require that you have access to a soldering iron and that those
supplied by Bambu Lab are a slightly different size and less suitable. Ruthex or CNC Kitchen
are good choices.

Optional Build Items


Loctite Blue

At least one of the screws as detailed in the instructions benefits from Loctite Threadlocker
Blue. Do not use the red Loctite, it is too strong for plastic parts with inserts.

When you use Loctite Blue put a very small amount of it on the end before screwing it in.
This is important for future removal. Please do not use this all over the model for ease of
maintenance.
PTFE Lubricant

Plastic parts susceptible to friction benefit from lubrication. If you have a PTFE lubricant or
other lubricant that is compatible with your choice of plastic, when final assembly has been
completed a light greasing of the lead screw will help operation.

Optional Model Parts

The options are provided in separate 3MF downloads.

Desk Mounting - There are now optional desk mounts, the holes for screws in the desk
mounts are 6mm in diameter. You can remove objects called “brace front lower” and “brace
rear lower” from the main print job if you want to use these.

Drill Attachment - You can remove object called “gear 8” from the main print job if you
want to use the optional drill/screwdriver attachment.

Dust Protection - This part stops cardboard particles and other dirt dropping on to the target
spool. It is supplied separately as it obscures the view a little, uses a bit more plastic. You can
remove the objects “brace front upper” and “brace rear upper” from the main print job if you
want to use this part. Note you will need to upgrade to Beta 4 to use the current part.

New Bambu & Extrudr Clamp & Spindle - Included by default from Beta 8. Fits all
Bambu spools and Extrudr 1kg and 1.1kg spools.

Original Bambu Clamp & Spindle - Fits most Bambu spools with the exception of a lot of
newer ones. This is a better option for spools it fits, as there will be less play in the assembly.

Generic Clamp & Spindle - A narrow clamp and spindle which aims to fit more third party
spools.
Upgrading From Betas

If you are upgrading from


beta 4 - 8.1 the upper
frame part provided as part
of the upgrade only deletes
an unused screw hole.

Hence this part is optional


and can be deleted from
the build plate it is on to
save a little plastic.

If you are upgrading from


beta 2 - 3 both of these
should remain in your
print.

As this guide is getting rather complicated, depending on your familiarity with V-Spooler if
you are performing an upgrade the best approach may be to disassemble your existing V-
Spooler and follow the instructions below using the upgraded parts in combination with parts
carried over from betas.

Assembly
Spool Clamp

Install two M3 inserts


into the end of the
spool clamp.
Screw on the retainer,
note that it is a reverse
thread. This is so it is
less likely to undo due
to the rotation.

Install the handle on


the end with two
M3x16 screws and
washers.
Filament Guide

Install two M3
inserts into the
holes in this part of
the filament guide.

Now connect the


two parts together
with two M3x8
screws and
washers.
Take the top part
of the carrier.
Install two inserts
in the holes in each
side.

This part is
sensitive to
warping, so please
be careful with
these lower inserts.

Also install two


inserts on the top
side.
Place a washer
over each of the
holes on one side.
This is to stop the
outer part of the
bearing rubbing on
the plastic.

Place a 693zz
bearing over each
hole and secure
with an M3x8mm
screw and washer.

Now repeat this for


the other side.
Gears

Install an M3
insert into the
end of the gear as
pictured.

Install the axel


extension on the
end with an
M3x16 screw
and washer.

Note that this


uses one of the
smaller axel
extension parts.
Take the gear
that looks like
this.

Install an M3
insert in the hole
on this side as
pictured.
Install the axel
extension on the
end with an
M3x16 screw
and washer.

Note that this


uses one of the
smaller axel
extension parts.

Take the final


gear and install
an M3 insert in
the middle.
Install the axel
extension on the
end with an
M3x16 screw
and washer.

Install an M3
insert into the
end of the drive
axel.
Install an M3
insert into the
side of the drive
axel. Make extra
sure this one is
installed flush
with the surface.

Left Frame

Take the lower


part of the left
frame and install
two M3 inserts in
either end.
Take the front
left leg of the
frame a pictured.

Note that this is


similar to the
right leg, but
slightly different
- there are not
two holes part
way up the leg.

There are four


holes in the top
as pictured.
Install an M3
insert in these
holes.

Take the rear left


leg of the frame a
pictured.

Note that this is


similar to the
right leg, but
slightly different
- there are not
two holes part
way up the leg.

There are two


holes in the top
as pictured.
Install two M3
inserts in these
holes.
Take the left top
section of the
frame. It is the
one with the
arrow pointing to
the left if you lay
it flat on its back
as pictured.

Lay out the parts


as pictured and
also find the thin
black lower
support brackets
as pictured.

If you are using


the optional desk
mounts, these
should be fitted
here.

The face of the


arch that the
arrow is on is
pointing upwards
in this picture.
Install 2x M3x20
screws and
washers in both
corners.

Connect the top


part of the
bracket with 2x
M3x16 screws
and washers on
each side.
Now insert a 608
bearing into this
hole, it is an easy
push-fit.

Find the two


upper supports
and install two
M3 inserts in
each end of both.

If you are using


the optional dust
protection part,
install the inserts
in this part
instead.
Install the upper
supports (or dust
protection
option) on the
upper part of the
frame with 4x
M3x16 screws
and washers.

Note that these


go one way
around, the black
bits should not
stick out over the
chamfered edges,
if they do they
need rotating
around!

Right Frame

Take the front


right leg and
install four M3
inserts in the four
holes in the top
of the leg.
Take the rear
right leg and
install two M3
inserts in the two
holes at the top
of the leg.

Install an M3
insert in the top
of each post with
a hole in the
bearing retainer.
In the central part
of the right hand
side of the frame
install 4 M3
inserts on the
holes on the side
as pictured.

Do the same on
the opposite side.

If you plan on
installing the
motor
modification in
the future it is a
good idea to
install two inserts
in the holes
indicated now as
it will be more
awkward later.
Install 3x 608
bearings in these
areas of the same
part.

Fit the bearing


retainer over the
bearings, making
sure the posts
with the inserts
in are inserted
into the holes
with matching
holes in the back.
Support the
bearing retainer
from the side it is
installed in, and
secure it with
two M3x8
screws and
washers in these
holes on the
opposite side.

Attach the front


leg to the central
part of the frame
using the two
holes half way up
with two M3x16
screws and
washers.

Do the same for


the rear leg.
Connect the top
part of the frame
using the 4 holes
at the top with 4x
M3x16 screws
and washers.

The face of the


arch that the
arrow is on
should be
pointed towards
the middle of the
model, or it is the
wrong way
around.

Install 2x 608
bearings in these
two holes.
Frame

Take the four orange


rollers and put a 608
bearing in each end.
They will fall out if
you are not careful as
they are a loose fit.

Note that there are two


flared rollers that look
a bit different. Bearings
should go in these too.

Move the parts


together so they are in
the correct orientation
for fitment.

Note that the flared


rollers go at the top of
the model.

It's starting to look like


a V-Spooler!
I find it easiest to
connect via the top
supports first. Use 4x
M3x16 screws and
washers in these 4
holes.

Use M3x20 screws and


washers for the bottom
two holes.

Repeat this for the rear


side.
Find this part and
install an M3 insert in
the hole as pictured,
also do the one on the
opposite side.

Attach the part in


between the two sides
of the frame as pictured
and connect either end
with M3x25 screws
and washers.
Insert the carrier
assembly into the black
support beneath it.

Place the spring in the


hole in the bottom of
the carrier and then the
tooth on top of the
spring. You may need
to keep the tooth in
place with your fingers.
Insert the cam through
and into the bearing in
the left leg. Ensure the
tooth is in the groove
in the barrel cam and
oriented correctly.

Install this part over the


cam with 4x M3x8mm
screws and washers.
You will need to slide
it under the tabs on the
top of the carrier.
Install the top section
of the carrier you
prepared earlier with
an M3x8mm screw and
washer on each side.

As the part is being


pushed down by the
spring pushing up, you
will need to pull it up
so the holes align.

Slowly spin the gear on


the end to check the
assembly moves freely
across the cam. Apply
lubrication if you have
it.

It is suggested to pull
these parts out as
pictured and let them
hang there carefully, to
allow fitment of the
other gears later.
The next thing to do is
to attempt to install all
the gears together. This
takes a bit of patience
and careful wiggling.

Please be gentle, it
took you ages to print
this!

Push the gears all the


way in once you have
wiggled them into
alignment.
Gearbox Cover

Lay down the


gearbox cover
flat and install 7x
M3 inserts in all
the holes.

Be careful not to
de-form the three
ones with the thin
outer edge.

Install 3x 608
bearings in these
three points.
Install the
bearing retainer
over the bearings.
Attach with 3x
M3x8 screws and
washers.

Install 3 bearings
in the other slots
in the gearbox
cover.
Install the
gearbox cover.
There are 4
screws to
connect.

The three at the


thinner parts of
the frame should
use M3x16
screws and
washers.

An M3x25 screw
and washer
should be used
on the part that
connects to the
leg.

Handle

If using the
handle option
install an insert
into the end of
the handle.
Put the handle
into the hole of
the arm as
pictured and the
retainer on the
opposite side.
Secure it with an
M3x8 screw and
washer.

This can now be


attached to the
axel if desired
with an M3x12
screw and
washer.

Final Steps

Insert a length of
PTFE tube into the
tube guide. It is best
to leave it a little long
so you can cut it to
your liking later.
Insert the two lock
nuts into the holes
indicated in the tube
guide. You may need
to support them with
a finger to stop them
falling out.

Secure the clamp with


two M3x16 screws
and washers. Tighten
it so it grips the PTFE
tube, but not
completely closed.

When you have


filament in V-
Spooler, and if you
are using this clamp
as a tensioner, it is
best to adjust it with
filament in the tube.

Note that the tube


wears quickly if using
the clamp as a
tensioner, and you
will need to make a
minor adjustment
frequently, possibly
on each spool.
This part should be
left over. Ensure you
have removed all the
supports from the
back cleanly to ensure
that it runs as true as
possible.

The cross in the back


should be aligned
with the cross on the
drive shaft.

This screw for this


part is known to
slowly come loose
and should be
periodically checked,
or a tiny amount of
Loctite Blue on the
end of the screw
should secure it. Do
not use Loctite Red.

You can use the


handle to hold the
axel stable. Screw in
an M3x16 screw and
washer and check to
make sure it is fixed
and runs true.

Congratulations! It was a long build but you should now have a working V-Spooler!

You might also like