The

Essential Guide
to
Patt er n
Mak in g
All you need to know
about designing,
adapting &
customising
sewing patterns

Jo Barnfield
& Andrew Richards

SEARCH PRESS
 The
Essential Guide
to
Pa t t e r n
Ma ki ng
Published in 2024 by Search Press Ltd. The
Essential Guide
Wellwood, North Farm Road
Tunbridge Wells
Kent, TN2 3DR

to
This book is produced by

Pa t t e r n
The Bright Press, an imprint of the Quarto Group,
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© 2012 Quarto Publishing plc

Ma k i n g
All rights reserved. No part of this book, text, photographs or
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beforehand from Search Press.

ISBN: 978-1-80092-272-3
Ebook: 978-1-80093-271-5

Publisher: Mark Searle

Creative Director: James Evans
All you need to know about designing,
Managing Editor: Jacqui Sayers
Editor: Abbie Sharman
adapting & customizing sewing patterns
Design: JC Lanaway

10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Jo Barnfield & Andrew Richards

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 5–5

CONTENTS

INTRODUCTION: PATTERN ANNOTATIONS  6

1 2 3 4
THE BASICS  8 DRAFTING TECHNIQUES  46 PATTERN DEVELOPMENT  104 THE DESIGNER MAKER 174
CHAPTER 1: TOOLS, SUPPLIES AND EQUIPMENT  10 CHAPTER 4: DESIGNING PATTERNS FROM SCRATCH 48 CHAPTER 7: VOLUME AND SUPPRESSION 106 CHAPTER 14: GOING PRO 176
• Taking measurements 48 • Volume 106 • Design development 178
CHAPTER 2: FUNDAMENTALS OF A GARMENT 16 • Making basic blocks 50 • Gathering 112 • Technical considerations 182
• Seams 16 • Pattern design essentials 56 • Pleats 114 • Promoting your work 184
• Darts 26 • Dart manipulation 60
• Combining and dividing 68 CHAPTER 8: SLEEVES 116 GLOSSARY 186
CHAPTER 3: FABRIC CONSIDERATIONS 30 • Creating your own pattern blocks 72 RESOURCES 189
• Interfacings 30 • Toiles 77 CHAPTER 9: COLLARS 124 INDEX 190
• Other forms of support 32 ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS192
• Layout, cutting and marking 34 CHAPTER 5: FITTING PRINCIPLES AND PATTERN CHAPTER 10: WAISTBANDS AND CUFFS 130
• Order of make 42 ADJUSTMENTS 78 • Waistbands 130
• Cuffs 134
CHAPTER 6: RUB-OFF PATTERN DRAFTING 94
CHAPTER 11: OPENINGS AND FASTENINGS 136
• Openings 136
• Fastenings  146

CHAPTER 12: FINISHINGS, LININGS AND FACINGS 152

• Hemming 152
• Facings  154
• Linings  158

CHAPTER 13: POCKETS 164

 7–7

INTRODUCTION COMMON PATTERN ANNOTATION

NAME DESCRIPTION ANNOTATION

PATTERN ANNOTATIONS Pattern adjustment lines

Two parallel lines indicate lengthening
or shortening position.
Proper pattern annotation is the main form of communication on the pattern
piece; it is vital that it is clear and informative. For the sewing machinist it Indicates the direction the pattern piece should
ensures that the garment can be properly constructed, that each piece of a Grainline be laid on to fabric. A coloured line has been used
pattern is present and that seam allowances, notches and dart positions are throughout this book to indicate grain direction.
in place and are accurate.
Denotes pattern piece that should be cut on
Cut on fold
a folded piece of fabric.

MARKING LINES ANNOTATION SHOULD

Cut line (single size) Indicates the cut line.

INCLUDE:
Some of the main information on the pattern indicates the following: • The garment name or style code, A commercial dressmaking pattern contains
e.g., Raglan Sleeve Raincoat. multiple sizes on one tissue; in industry this
• The cut line and stitch line. These denote the edges of the allowance needed Cut line (multi-size)
• The garment grade, e.g., size 12. is called a graded nest. This line may be solid
to seam the garment. Tracing the pattern off to the stitch line gives a nett
• The pattern piece, e.g., sleeve, or dashed.
pattern, which is best used if the pattern needs to be altered.
pocket flap.
• Grainline. The grainline has arrows at either end to show direction. Not all commercial patterns indicate the stitch line,
• The number of the piece, e.g., Stitch line
(NB: a red, arrowed line is used in this book to indicate the grainline.) especially ones that contain multiple sizes.
piece 2 of 8.
• Centre front (CF) and centre back (CB). • An explanation for the cutter,
Triangle-shaped marks that indicate positions on
• The main horizontal body measurement lines, such as waist, hip, bust e.g., cut 1 pair self and fusing,
individual seams that need to be lined up during
(including the bust point). cut on fold, etc. Notches
construction. A double triangle indicates a back
• ‘Place on fold’ bracket, indicating that the pattern piece should be placed • Seam allowance, e.g., 1cm (3/ 8in)
pattern piece.
on to folded fabric to create a mirrored piece once cut. SA, Nett, etc.
• The date, or the version number.
• Cut right side up (Cut RSU) or occasionally cut wrong side up (Cut WSU).
Pleat symbols Indicate pleat position and pleat fold direction.
Right side and wrong side may be abbreviated as RS and WS respectively.
If you are working in a team, it is
• Left-hand side (LHS) and right-hand side (RHS).
also helpful to include the name or
• Darts and pocket positions indicated by a punched drill hole in the pattern. initials of the pattern designer who Button position Marks the placement of buttons.
• Pleat direction marked with an arrow from fold to end position. created the pattern.

• Interior cut lines such as for a placket opening on a sleeve.

Buttonhole position Marks the placement of buttonholes.
• Fold lines such as on a button stand or pleat.
• Roll lines such as the soft roll line of a collar or break line of a rever.
Can indicate precise matching
• Hemline. Drill hole
or construction points.
• Fastening positions for buttons and buttonholes, zips and so on.
 1

THE BASICS 
CHAPTER 1: TOOLS, SUPPLIES AND EQUIPMENT  10

CHAPTER 2: FUNDAMENTALS OF A GARMENT 

16
• Seams 16
• Darts 26

CHAPTER 3: FABRIC CONSIDERATIONS  30

• Interfacings 30
• Other forms of support32
• Layout, cutting and marking 34
• Order of make 42

1 6
2 3 4 5
 10–11

CHAPTER 1: 3

TOOLS, SUPPLIES AND EQUIPMENT

1 6
2 3 4 5

It is important to understand the tools of the pattern-cutting trade before

you start. Some are essential (such as a measuring tape) or multifunctional
(such as Patternmaster) and you will use them constantly; others have
a specific use (e.g., a pattern notcher) and you will need them less often.
These tools can be accumulated over time, and you may form your own
5
equipment preferences as you work.

6
PATTERN-CUTTING EQUIPMENT 12
ALSO USEFUL
ESSENTIAL ITEMS The following items may
These items are essential if you want to create professional patterns. be useful in pattern-cutting,
but are not so fundamental. 9
• Tape measure: Used for taking body measurements and measuring curves
• Pattern notcher (7)
on pattern pieces. (1)
• Patternmaster (8)

• Metal ruler: A metre- or yard-length metal ruler keeps a true straight line. • Hip curve (9)
A smaller 30cm (12in) metal ruler is also useful. (2) • Flexible curve (10) 11
2
• T-square (11)
• Set square: This ensures that lines run true at 90 degrees on a pattern. (3) 7 10
• Pattern drill (12)
• Shoben marking tape
• French curves: Use for forming smaller curves such as collars. (4)
or style tape (13)
13
• Awl: This tool can be used to make small holes in pattern pieces. • Mannequin (not shown)
It can also be used to help pivot darts accurately. (5)

• Tracing wheel: This is used to trace through both paper and fabric to mark
lines and positions with a continuous line of small pinpricks on a piece of
paper underneath. (6)

• Pattern paper and card: These are also essential for creating pattern
drafts and ‘working’ (in process) patterns. Pattern paper is very thin and can
8
be traced through, while pattern card is more hardwearing (not shown).

THE BASICS
Tools, supplies and equipment
 12–13

1
GARMENT CONSTRUCTION MARKING TOOLS
EQUIPMENT ESSENTIAL ITEMS
Note that all marks on fabric should be temporary; test these methods before
ESSENTIAL ITEMS use on fabric to find the most suitable.
1 The following are essential in the
process of garment construction. • Tailor’s chalk: This is available in many colours, and is one of the most
traditional methods used to create temporary marks on the fabric. These
• Shears: Large scissors with chalks can blunt quickly; however, there are tools available that use chalk
blades over 15cm (6in) long. (1) dust to produce continuous, fine, sharp chalk lines. (1)
2
2
• Embroidery scissors: Small • Cloth-marking pencils and pens: A chalk pencil can be quite waxy and not
precision scissors for cutting to easily removed from fabric. Cloth-marking pens use ink that either
exact points and trimming disappears within 24 hours or can be removed with water. They are commonly
threads. (2) double-ended with an ink-removal solution at the other end if you want to
3
erase markings immediately. (2)
• Pins: These hold garment
4 sections in position for seaming, • Thread tracing: This is another way of marking fabric: a type of running
and pattern to paper when 3 stitch that is visible as a line on both sides of the fabric (not shown).
cutting out. (3)
ALSO USEFUL
• Unpicker: Used to quickly undo • Chalk sharpener (3)
an incorrect seam. (4)
5

• Tweezers: A precision tool

whose many purposes include PRESSING TOOLS
6 threading machinery. (5) Pressing is fundamental to a well-made garment.

• Hand-sewing needles: These • Press cloth: A press cloth is a piece of fabric, usually cotton, that you can
include crewels (embroidery put over fabric when pressing so the iron does not damage the fabric
needles), sharps (short hand- (not shown).
sewing needles), betweens and
1
blunts (shorter needles used by • Ham: Derived from the traditional word for buttocks, the tailor’s ham is used
7
tailors on heavy fabrics). (6) to press three-dimensional shapes; for example, in bust or hip shaping. (1)

• Lint brush: This will help to • Sleeve board: This is a narrow padded board for pressing sleeves and
raise pile on fabrics, as well as sleeveheads, as well as other tubular garment shapes that cannot be pressed
removing fluff (not shown). flat on the ironing board. (2)

ALSO USEFUL • Iron cleaner: A metal cleaner used for cleaning the metal base of an iron
8 2
• Rotary cutter (7) (not shown).
• Fabric weights (8)
• Fabric sealant (not shown) THE BASICS
Tools, supplies and equipment
 14–15

USING A SEWING MACHINE MACHINE FEET 1

Domestic sewing machines usually serve a variety of purposes, whereas Depending on the make
machines used in industry are often specific to one purpose (for example, and model of your machine,
an overlocker). a range of feet is available:

ESSENTIAL FEATURES • Plain foot: For most general

The following are the essential considerations when using a domestic sewing machine-stitching. (4)
machine for putting together your designs. 2
make and size
• Teflon foot: A Teflon-
shank
• Sewing machine: This is an all-purpose machine, with various stitches for coated plastic foot for use
seams, decorative embroidery stitches and buttonholes. Designed for the on slippery fabrics and
home user, it is unsuitable for heavy industrial use. (1) some leathers. (5)

• Machine needles: The type and weight of fabric dictates which needle • Velvet foot: A narrow foot
you should use. A standard needle has a pointed tip and is suitable for most for fabrics with a heavy pile
long groove
wovens; leather needles have a tip more similar to a blade, to cut into the such as velvet and velour. (6) shaft
material rather than to pierce it; jersey/knit needles have a ballpoint, or
rounded head, so as not to damage or snag the knit. Each of these needles • Zipper feet: These are
short groove/scarf
is available in many sizes, with finer needles more suitable for lightweight available in left- and right- 3
eye
fabrics, and thicker needles for heavier ones. (2) side versions. (7)
point
• Machine threads: Threads are available in many weights and fibre • Invisible/concealed
compositions. The type of thread used is determined both by the weight zipper foot: A small foot
of the fabric and its purpose, whether for seaming or topstitching. (3) with grooved guides for
attaching invisible or
• Bulk threads: Bulk threads are a loosely twisted polyester thread; concealed zips. (8)
8
used for an overlocker, this type of thread gives a flat appearance
(not shown). ALSO USEFUL 4
• A narrow foot is able to 6
stitch closely to an edge.
Used mostly for attaching
plain zips, but also for
piping (not shown).

• Binding attachments are

handy for producing bound
seams and hems in one step
5
(not shown). 7

• Gathering feet are useful

for creating an even gather
(not shown).
THE BASICS
Tools, supplies and equipment
 16–17

MATCHING SEAMS
CHAPTER 2: Seams must be matched accurately; there are ways to ensure this,
as explained below.

FUNDAMENTALS OF A GARMENT PINNING

Pins are available in many types and thicknesses. It is important to choose
an appropriate pin size for the fabric used, so it does not leave pinholes that
cannot be removed. Certain materials, such as leather, PVC or waxed or stitch line

coated fabrics cannot be pinned for this reason; paperclips can be used
SEAMS instead, or take care to pin just within the seam allowance, so that any pin
marks will not show.
Seams are lines of stitching that join together individual garment sections.
The type of seam used is determined by elements such as fabric (its thickness, MATCHING THE THREAD When pinning, secure pieces together at each end first, then at notches
whether it has stretch and so on); the desired look (a certain seam may help Use the correct thread for the fabric and centre, and lastly between these points at 7.5–10cm (3–4in) intervals.
WS
to impart a certain feel, such as a machine-felled seam for workwear or that you are using, matching it as Too many pins can hinder construction. Take care to remove pins while
jeans); and the location of the seam (whether a stronger, more durable closely as possible to the fabric you are sewing; sewing over a pin can result in either a broken needle
seam is most appropriate). colour. If a perfect match cannot be or an irregular stitch line.
found, go for a slightly lighter tone,
as the thread will tend to look darker It is best to pin across, rather than down, the seam, as this helps to secure
PREPARING TO SEW SEAMS when the seam is constructed. points together more accurately. When trying to match two seams that cross
Check the machine tension on a scrap of the fabric before you sew. The stitch You should also consider matching through one another, match seams at the stitch line and pin 1.2cm (½in) on
should be flat and regular, not puckered or loopy. Sewing problems can thread for appropriate weight and either side. Pinning here rather than on the seam means that the seams are
stem from incorrect tension, machine threading, stitch length, needle size fibre content. less likely to slip on one another, and are more likely to line up precisely.
or a blunt or bent needle.
TACKING
A seam guide can be used to keep a constant, accurate seam width. However, Tacking is a form of running stitch, hand-sewn along the stitch line.
with experience you will become less reliant on it and be able to visualise It is used to keep sections together temporarily for machine sewing.
a precise seam allowance in relation to the foot width. The tacking stitch is a large stitch usually made in a contrasting colour
thread. It is unsecured at either end so that it can be removed easily.
With certain exceptions, each seam must be backstitched by sewing back and
forth for a couple of stitches at the start and finish of the seam. This secures Tacking can be more suitable than pins for insetting sleeves, as it gives
the seam and prevents it from opening up. an opportunity to check correct balance on the wearer before it is finally
sewn by machine. It can help to more accurately allocate tolerance (ease)
An alternative to backstitching is to tie off the threads at both ends. This is within a seam, such as on a sleevehead.
more of a couture finish, but there are times when this is appropriate for
certain fabrics. Tacking can also be used to stabilise two layers of fabric that form one
garment section. Here, the stitch is sewn around the edge of the pattern
At the end of each seam, threads must be trimmed, and the seam pressed in pieces on the seam allowance.
preparation for the next stage. A seam should be almost invisible when sewn;
however, decorative seaming and topstitching can be used to enhance style
lines within a garment.

THE BASICS
Fundamentals of a garment