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KayakRoutesFinal 2/3/04 14:47 Page i

PETER McGEE
foreword by J O H N D O W D

KAYAK
ROUTES O F T H E PA C I F I C
NORTHWEST COAST

g
Douglas & McIntyre Publishing Group
vancouver / toronto / berkeley
KayakRoutesFinal 2/3/04 14:47 Page ii

Copyright © 2004 by the British Columbia Marine Trail Association

04 05 06 07 08 5 4 3 2 1
Second edition 2004

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced, stored in

a retrieval system or transmitted, in any form or by any means, without the prior written
consent of the publisher or a licence from The Canadian Copyright Licensing Agency
(Access Copyright). For a copyright licence, visit www.accesscopyright.ca
or call toll free to 1-800-893-5777.

Greystone Books
A division of Douglas & McIntyre Ltd.
2323 Quebec Street, Suite 201
Vancouver, British Columbia
Canada v5t 4s7
www.greystonebooks.com.

National Library of Canada Cataloguing in Publication Data

Kayak routes of the Pacific Northwest coast / (edited by) Peter McGee;
foreword by John Dowd.—2nd ed.

Included index.
isbn 1-55365-033-6

1. Sea kayaking—Northwest coast of North America—Guidebooks.

2. Northwest coast of North America—Guidebooks. I. McGee, Peter, 1970–
gv776.15.b7k39 2004 797.1′224′09795 c2003-907344-0

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data

Kayak routes of the Pacific Northwest coast / (edited by) Peter McGee;
foreword by John Dowd.—Rev. and updated.
p. cm.
Includes bibliographical references.
isbn 1-55365-033-6 (2nd ed.: pbk.: alk. paper)
1. Sea kayaking—Northwest Coast of North America—Guidebooks.
2. Northwest Coast of North America—Guidebooks. I. McGee, Peter.
gv776.5k39 2004
797.1′224′09795—dc22 2003067534

Editing by Lucy Kenward and Naomi Pauls (second edition)

Cover design by Peter Cocking
Text design by Jessica Sullivan
Cover photograph: Addenbroke Point, Central Coast, Peter McGee
Maps by Darryl Jensen
Printed and bound in Canada by Friesens
Printed on acid-free paper
Distributed in the U.S. by Publishers Group West

We gratefully acknowledge the financial support of the Canada Council for the Arts,
the British Columbia Arts Council, and the Government of Canada through the Book Publishing
Industry Development Program (bpidp) for our publishing activities.

Extreme care has been taken to ensure that all information in this
book is accurate and up to date, but neither the authors nor the publishers can
be held legally responsible for any errors that may appear.
KayakRoutesFinal 2/3/04 14:47 Page iii

To all those who care for the coast

KayakRoutesFinal 2/3/04 14:47 Page iv
KayakRoutesFinal 2/10/04 8:26 Page v

Contents
Foreword ix
Preface to the Second Edition xi
Acknowledgements xii
Introduction xiii
How to Use This Guide xv

1 K AYA K I N G T H E PA C I F I C N O R T H W E S T C O A S T 1
Safety First 1
Principles of Minimum Impact Camping 3
Respecting Wildlife 10
Cultural Impacts 12
Climate, Weather and Hazards 14
Tides and Currents 21
Other Hazards 23

2 THE LOWER COLUMBIA RIVER 27

TRIP 1 The Columbia Gorge 33
TRIP 2 The Ports 35
TRIP 3 Bachelor Island 36
TRIP 4 Skamokawa 38
Additional Routes 39

3 PUGET SOUND 41
TRIP 5 South Sound 47
TRIP 6 Mid Sound 50
KayakRoutesFinal 2/3/04 14:47 Page vi

TRIP 7 Southern San Juan Islands 52

TRIP 8 Outer San Juan Islands 54
TRIP 9 Metropolitan Seattle 58
Additional Routes 61

4 THE GULF ISLANDS 63

TRIP 10 The Gulf Island Chain 68
Additional Routes 79

5 I N A N D A R O U N D VA N C O U V E R 81
TRIP 11 False Creek 83
TRIP 12 English Bay 84
TRIP 13 Crescent Beach 86
TRIP 14 Little Campbell River 88
TRIP 15 Fraser Delta 89
TRIP 16 Indian Arm 90

6 HOWE SOUND 95
TRIP 17 The Pasley Group 98
TRIP 18 Keats Island 99
TRIP 19 Gambier and Anvil Islands 101
Additional Routes 103

7 THE SUNSHINE COAST 105

TRIP 20 Sechelt Island 108
TRIP 21 Hotham Sound/Jervis Island 114
TRIP 22 Nelson Island 119
TRIP 23 Jedediah Island 121
TRIP 24 Strait of Georgia 125
Additional Routes 129

8 131
D E S O L AT I O N S O U N D
TRIP 25 Desolation Sound 135
TRIP 26 Toba Inlet 138
Additional Routes 141
KayakRoutesFinal 2/3/04 14:47 Page vii

9 THE DISCOVERY ISLANDS 143

TRIP 27 The Discovery Islands 146
Additional Routes 153

10 JOHNSTONE STRAIT 155

TRIP 28 Johnstone Strait 160
Additional Routes 165

11 QUEEN CHARLOTTE STRAIT 167

TRIP 29 Queen Charlotte Strait/God’s Pocket 170
Additional Routes 174

12 BARKLEY SOUND 177

TRIP 30 The Broken Group Islands 183
TRIP 31 Bamfield and the Deer Group 187
Additional Routes 190

13 C L AY O Q U O T S O U N D193
TRIP 32 Big Tree Trail (Meares Island) 197
TRIP 33 Meares Island 199
TRIP 34 Hot Springs Cove 201
Additional Routes 205

14 NOOTKA SOUND 207

TRIP 35 Nootka Sound 210
TRIP 36 Nuchatlitz Inlet and Nootka Island 214
Additional Routes 217

15 KYUQUOT SOUND 219

TRIP 37 Kyuquot and the Bunsby Islands 225
Additional Routes 231

16 233
Q U AT S I N O S O U N D
TRIP 38 Quatsino Sound 236
Additional Routes 241
KayakRoutesFinal 2/3/04 14:47 Page viii

17 THE CENTRAL COAST 243

TRIP 39 Bella Bella and the Hakai Conservation Study Area 252
TRIP 40 Klemtu 257
Additional Routes 260

18 H A I D A G WA I I | Q U E E N C H A R L O T T E I S L A N D S 263
TRIP 41 Gwaii Haanas 268
Additional Routes 277

19 THE NORTH COAST 279

TRIP 42 Porcher Island 282
TRIP 43 Stephens Island and the Tree Nobs 285
TRIP 44 Dundas and Melville Islands 287
Additional Routes 290

Useful Contacts 293

Equipment Checklist 322
About the Contributors 323
Sources 328
Index 330
KayakRoutesFinal 2/3/04 14:47 Page ix

Foreword

F or the past 15 years, pessimists have been predicting the “leveling

o¤ ” of sea kayaking as the fastest-growing water sport in North
America, yet the growth continues. In 2003 when a new kayak shop
opened in Vancouver, 80 per cent of its customers were new to the
sport.
Since the first edition of this guide six years ago, the number of
kayakers on the sea has increased dramatically, particularly at such
popular destinations as the San Juans, the Gulf Islands, the Broken
Group Islands, Desolation Sound, Tofino and Johnstone Strait.
More and more kayakers are seeing the Pacific Northwest coast as
a “wilderness” playground. We would do well to welcome these visi-
tors. They leave little trace of their passing and will take back the
word that this coast is a treasure under siege, one worth preserving for
its own sake, not just for the resources extracted. In the long term
their presence may help to preserve the wild nature of those special
places. Happily this edition has been expanded to include more
wilderness areas in the United States, the Oregon marine trails.
The best protection our coasts can have is for environmentally
aware individuals to visit them often and participate in their mainte-
nance. The B.C. Marine Trail Association (bcmta) used the pro-
ceeds from the first edition of this book to build a solar-powered
composting toilet at Blackberry Point, on Valdes Island in the Gulf Is-
lands. Unfortunately, thieves took the solar panels and, incredible as
it may seem (surely this could happen only in B.C. and Brazil), the is-
land is now flagged for logging by Weyerhaeuser.
It is hard to maintain citizen initiative for a project such as a ma-
rine trail when people believe that an area is part of a park overseen
by some level of government. This is frequently not the case. Great

ix
KayakRoutesFinal 2/3/04 14:47 Page x

x | Kayak Routes of the Pacific Northwest Coast

hallelujahs greeted the expansion of B.C.’s marine park system, which

has to be considered a step forward, but kayakers must let their voices
be heard. A deep-water harbour with docks, generators and all-night
parties are not the features most kayakers go to the wilderness to enjoy.
For financial planners and cash-strapped governments, the benefits of
a pristine beach pale beside docking fees, liquor sales or the quick,
one-time hit of pulping a forest. They need to be reminded.
In the USA, kayakers are concerned primarily about access. In
Canada, wild spaces like forests and empty shoreline are often viewed
as unlimited, particularly in the north and mid-coast. Marine trails
will help to preserve access to these areas for future kayakers, but they
will not endure and thrive without our active participation. The new
parks are great, but they will not usually provide even the minimal
services kayakers need unless the paddling community sees to it that
they do. And don’t assume your favourite spot is part of a park and
therefore protected. Remember Blackberry Point.
According to Mercia Sixta, one of the original board members of
the bcmta, the next area to be threatened appears to be the mid-coast
north of Port Hardy and south of Prince Rupert. This area includes
some of the finest kayaking spots in the world. It is rich in wildlife and
dramatic seascapes, yet with surprisingly few good campsites. Com-
peting for the best protected areas are fish farms, log booming areas
and, most recently, commercial tour operators lobbying for tenure
over desirable campsites.
Recreational kayakers need a voice at the table when the future of
such areas is being decided. The B.C. Marine Trail Association is the
ideal forum for Canadian kayakers in these land management issues,
focusing as it does upon informing and educating kayakers rather
than on restricting and controlling access. Implicit is the recognition
that the flip side of this emphasis on unrestricted access is a lofty com-
bination of responsibility and vigilance. That ties in nicely with sea
kayaking at its best. This guide reflects these values, and this new edi-
tion is a timely expansion of the West Coast paddler’s library.
Thanks to Pete McGee and others for continuing to show
confidence in the B.C. Marine Trail by donating their time and the
proceeds from this book to the future of sea kayaking on this coast.

John Dowd
KayakRoutesFinal 2/3/04 14:47 Page xi

Preface
to the Second Edition

W elcome to the second edition of Kayak Routes of the Pacific

Northwest Coast. Not only have the existing chapters been
updated but it is with great excitement that we have expanded the
guide to include Queen Charlotte Strait and Klemtu in British
Columbia and the Lower Columbia River Water Trail in Oregon. As
always, Kayak Routes of the Pacific Northwest Coast has a strong edu-
cational component regarding minimum impact camping and
cultural impacts. All the contributors live or work in the areas they
describe, and each went to great lengths to ensure that local and
environmental concerns were addressed in the site-selection process.
In addition, all royalties from this book will be used to help with a
number of causes including site cleanups, outhouse construction
and the continued lobbying of the B.C. Marine Trail Association for
paddlers’ rights along the coast.
The first edition raised close to $15,000 and it was great to see the
community come together as a legitimate and concerned interest
group, dedicated to protecting the environment that means so much
to us all. Ultimately, however, responsibility for the coast rests with
each of us and depends on our conduct as individuals.
Tread lightly when you visit the areas described in this guide, but
always speak loudly for their preservation. Don’t be afraid to express
your love or concerns for an area. Remember, it is your actions both
on and o¤ the water that will help keep the spirit of our coast alive.
Thank you for choosing Kayak Routes of the Pacific Northwest
Coast as your kayak guide to British Columbia, Washington and
northern Oregon. Happy paddling.

Peter McGee
xi
KayakRoutesFinal 2/3/04 14:47 Page xii

Acknowledgements

T his book has been a collaborative e¤ort from the very beginning
so it is diªcult to list everyone who has helped in its creation. To
give the authors their appropriate due, small biographies are supplied
at the back of the book. All these authors deserve enormous thanks
for volunteering their time and local expertise to ensure this guide
happened.
For their help with content and editing, thanks also to John Dowd,
Louanne Ralston, Jocelyn Lymburner, Ross Tweedale, Chris Hath-
away, Natalie Fournier, Mary Ann Snowden, Paul Chaplow, Rich
Brame, Stuart Smith, Glen Harris, Michael Pardy, Chris Ladner,
Cathie Findlay-Brook, Nicki Browne, Bob Austad, Wally Priedolins,
Meredith Reeve, Dr. Helga Sickert, Pauline Scott, Rueben Weir, Joel
Rogers, Jennifer Carpenter of the Heiltsuk Cultural Education Cen-
tre, John Bolton of the Heiltsuk Fisheries Co-Management Program,
and the Gwaii Haanas Archipelago Management Board. We are also
grateful to David Getchell, Mary Monfort, Sandie Rumble, Jamie
Little, Catherine France and all others who have helped with the
B.C. Marine Trail Association over the years.
A special thanks goes to Lucy Kenward, Naomi Pauls, Nancy Pol-
lak, Rob Sanders, Nancy Flight, Terri Wershler and Leanne Denis for
their incredible patience in dealing with a publishing rookie such as
myself. Finally, thanks to my parents, who allowed the B.C. Marine
Trail Association to evolve in their basement and, at various times,
take over every other room in their home.

xii
KayakRoutesFinal 2/3/04 14:47 Page xiii

Introduction
Marine Trails of the Pacific Northwest Coast

A paddling trail that winds its way along the coast of the Pacific
Northwest has, in essence, always existed. For thousands of years
people have paddled these waters, travelling from camp to camp and
village to village, as they worked their way north or south along the In-
side Passage. Times are changing, however, and pressures from indus-
try and private development, as well as from increased recreational
use, are putting a strain on the number of suitable camping and rest-
ing areas available for the growing paddling community.
In light of this, the B.C. Marine Trail Association (bcmta) and
the Washington Water Trails Association (wwta) were formed in the
early 1990s to establish marine trails in their respective parts of the
coast. When connected, these trails will form a marine trail system
without political boundaries. The Cascadia Marine Trail, as it is
known, will be the longest and most spectacular protected marine
corridor in the world.
More recently, various groups in Oregon have banded together to
form the Lower Columbia River Water Trail Committee (lcrwtc)
and create an amazing 235-km (146-mi.) water trail that follows the
Columbia River from the Bonneville Dam to the Pacific Ocean. Al-
though their route is technically not part of the Cascadia Marine Trail
system, the people behind the Lower Columbia River Water Trail
have the same goals as those at the bcmta and wwta, and we are
thrilled to have the Lower Columbia River Water Trail included in
this edition of the guidebook.
All three trail organizations work incredibly hard to preserve areas
that are important to paddlers and other small boaters, and all three
organizations rely on the support of the paddling community. If you

xiii
KayakRoutesFinal 2/3/04 14:47 Page xiv

u Gnarled driftwood, Queen Charlotte Strait, peter mcgee

have not already done so, don’t wait until it’s too late to protect the
beauty of the coast. Join your local water trail association today!

British Columbia Marine Trail Association

c/o Ecomarine
1668 Duranleau St., Granville Island
Vancouver, B.C. v6h 3s4
Web site: www.bcmarinetrail.com

Washington Water Trails Association

#305–4649 Sunnyside Avenue North
Seattle, WA 98103–6900
Tel.: (206) 545-9161; fax: (206) 547-0350
Web site: www.wwta.org

Lower Columbia River Water Trail

c/o Lower Columbia River Estuary Partnership
811 sw Naito Parkway
Portland, OR 97204
Tel.: (503) 226-1565
Web site: www.columbiawatertrail.org

North American Water Trails Network

1428 Fenwick Lane
Silver Spring, MD 20910
Tel.: (301) 589-1886
Web site: www.watertrails.org

xiv
KayakRoutesFinal 2/3/04 14:47 Page xv

How to Use This Guide

T he paddle routes described in this guide are divided by region,

and the format for each chapter is roughly as follows:
Map, Background, Getting There, Weather and Hazards, Special Con-
ditions, Trip Summaries, Trip Descriptions and Additional Routes.
Although each category is fairly self-explanatory, it is worth noting a
few points. First, the maps are not for navigational use but merely to
orient the reader to the information in the chapter. Always travel with
the appropriate nautical charts. Second, the trip summaries are in
point form and give a suggested trip length and skill level(s) which are
based on the prevalent paddling conditions of an area. However, it is
essential that you make your own assessment as to whether the condi-
tions of a particular day and time of year are compatible with your
paddling ability. Even a trip labelled “Beginner” can be extremely
dangerous if weather conditions don’t cooperate, and it is up to you to
exercise good judgement in selecting your destination and determin-
ing your paddling route.
Finally, although this is the most complete guide to the Pacific
Northwest available, as you adventure along the coast you are bound
to discover places that aren’t included here. There are a few reasons
for this. First, we may not have known about them. Second, due to
space limitations we included only the best, most practically located
sites. Third, we never intended to put out a book that would take away
your sense of discovery, and several sites were left out as little gifts for
the more adventuresome paddler to stumble upon—a small reward
for those willing to take the path less travelled. Finally, there are spots
of local endearment that, in a sense, belong to the communities. You
are free to find and use them, but it was simply not appropriate for us
to point them out.
xv
KayakRoutesFinal 2/3/04 14:47 Page xvi

u Louscoone Inlet, Haida Gwaii, peter mcgee

KayakRoutesFinal 2/3/04 14:47 Page 1

Kayaking the Pacific

Northwest Coast

SAFETY FIRST

S afe travel in the Pacific Northwest is entirely dependent on your

skill, judgement and common sense. Although the routes listed
in this book were selected with the limitation of ocean kayaks in
mind, they still have inherent dangers.
You are on your own when paddling in the Pacific Northwest, so be
prepared. If you get in a jam, there is not a lot of help out there. If you
are injured, the nearest hospital may be many hours away. The follow-
ing are suggestions to help you head o¤ catastrophe. They are not the
only issues a kayaker may face, but they are important bases to cover.

• Be prepared to solve your own problems. For example, pack the nec-
essary supplies to make emergency boat repairs and have extra food in
case your paddling schedule is delayed by poor weather.
• Whether paddling solo or in a group, have your techniques for self-
and assisted rescues so well learned that you can do them under any
conditions. The Eskimo roll is great for a quick recovery but should
not be counted on. Practise alternative exit and re-entry techniques.

1
KayakRoutesFinal 2/3/04 14:47 Page 2

2 | Kayak Routes of the Pacific Northwest Coast

• Enhance your boating skills by taking courses or travelling with more

experienced boaters who can share their knowledge.
• Do not paddle alone unless you are experienced and have your act
well in hand regarding skill, physical condition and mental prepared-
ness. If you are travelling solo, leave yourself a wide margin of safety.
• The greatest single danger to sea kayakers is hypothermia. Cold water
kills. Dress appropriately and educate yourself about hypothermia.
• Get a marine weather forecast each day before you head out on the
water.
• The Canadian and U.S. Coast Guards recommend that all boaters
file a float plan with someone. That person should know where you
are going and when you are due in port. If you make major changes
to your plan during your trip, update your contact party.
• Always carry a compass when paddling and know how to use it. A
deck-mounted compass will help you keep your bearings over long
distances. Also, carry the appropriate marine charts, not facsimiles or
topographic maps. A gps can be extremely helpful but should not
take the place of a compass and charts.
• Carrying a vhf (Very High Frequency) radio aboard is a good idea
but will not eliminate the need for any of the above. Keep in mind:
electronics do not fare well in small open boats and may fail when
you need them most. Small hand-held vhf radios (including weather
radios) have a very limited range and work on line of sight. Do not ex-
pect to pick up vhf channels (either sending or receiving) while on
shore, because the land mass on which you are sitting may be block-
ing the signal. To reach a vhf channel, you may have to paddle
150–200 m (500–650 ft.) o¤shore. The same limitations apply when
travelling up a steep-sided inlet; you may have to completely leave the
inlet to use your vhf radio. A cellphone can also be quite helpful if
there is coverage.
• Always tie up your boat when you go ashore, even when it has been
pulled well above the high tide line. A sudden squall can toss a light-
weight boat right back into the water. As for beaching your boat “for
just a minute,” you may not realize how fast the tide rises until you
turn to see your pride and joy drifting o¤ to sea.
• Always carry a first aid kit. Know exactly what it contains and how to
use it. Make sure that others in your group know where to find it. A
full equipment checklist can be found at the back of the book.
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