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 Cambridge Library CoLLeCtion
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Travels in the United States, etc. during 1849 and 1850

Published in 1851, Lady Emmeline Stuart Wortley’s account of her travels through
the Americas during the mid nineteenth century represents an early example of
the travel writing genre. The United States was becoming an increasingly popular
tourist destination for Europeans at this time, and Lady Emmeline’s writings present
a quintessentially British impression of America and its people. Volume I of this
three-volume work begins with Lady Emmeline’s arrival in New York in 1849, and
the reader accompanies her to Boston, Philadelphia, Washington and New Orleans
before returning to New York. Written in an engaging and conversational tone, the
volumes are both informative and entertaining, fulfilling the author’s aim to ‘amuse’
with ‘the gossip of travel’.
Cambridge University Press has long been a pioneer in the reissuing of out-of-
print titles from its own backlist, producing digital reprints of books that are still
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Travels in the United
States, etc. during
1849 and 1850
Volume 1

E mmeline Stuart-Wortley
 C A m B r I D g E U N I V E r SI T Y P r E S S

Cambridge, New York, melbourne, madrid, Cape Town, Singapore,

São Paolo, Delhi, Dubai, Tokyo

Published in the United States of America by Cambridge University Press, New York

www.cambridge.org
Information on this title: www.cambridge.org/9781108003353

© in this compilation Cambridge University Press 2009

This edition first published 1851

This digitally printed version 2009

ISBN 978-1-108-00335-3 Paperback

This book reproduces the text of the original edition. The content and language reflect
the beliefs, practices and terminology of their time, and have not been updated.

Cambridge University Press wishes to make clear that the book, unless originally published
by Cambridge, is not being republished by, in association or collaboration with, or
with the endorsement or approval of, the original publisher or its successors in title.
 TRAVELS

THE UNITED STATES,

ETC.

DURING 1849 AND 1850.

BY THE

LADY EMMELINE STUART WORTLEY.

IN THREE VOLUMES.

VOL. I.

LONDON:
RICHARD BENTLEY, NEW BURLINGTON STREET,
in (©rBtnari) to $}er fflajttt}).
1851.
Kxbtv.
 THESE VOLUMES ARE DEDICATED

TO THE

COUNTESS OF CHESTERFIELD,
BY

HER MOST AFFECTIONATE COUSIN,

THE AUTHORESS.
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 PREFACE.

I LEFT England fully determined against

writing a book of travels, nay, I would not
even keep a Journal during our wanderings,
lest I should be tempted to jot down, and
ultimately to publish, my impressions of the
society and institutions in those countries
which it was our good fortune to visit; but
since our return to England, friends, to whose
better judgment I am bound to defer, have
pressed me so strongly to print the letters
which I had written during our excursion,
that I have consented to do so after adding
somewhat, to give them the usual narrative
form, and dividing them into chapters. This
will account for the familiar tone of the Work,
and for occasional repetitions.
For the politician or philosopher these
a 3
VI PREFACE.

pages will, I fear, have little or no interest;

written familiarly to relatives and friends at
home, their staple is the gossip of travel;
and if they amuse that large class to whom
gossip is welcome, and tend in any way to
strengthen kindly feelings in the breasts of
my English readers towards the people from
whom their wandering countrywoman received
so much and such constant courtesy and
hospitality, I shall not regret giving to the
world this Work.

BELVOIR CASTLE.
April, 1851.
 CONTENTS TO VOL. I.

CHAPTER I.
PAGE
Arrival at New York.—First view of Broadway.—
Summer costume of the ladies.—Description of New
York.—Its suburbs and islands.—Its fortifications.—
Prepare to start for Niagara . . . . . . 1

CHAPTER II.

Detained at Albany. — Wreck of the "Empire''

steamer.—American indifference to human life.—The
theatrical riot and massacre caused by Mr. Forrest's
Jealousy of Macready.—Sympathy of the lady for the
captain of the " Empire." — High-sounding names of
towns.—The Hudson.—Hotels at Albany.—Description
of Albany . . . . . . . . . 9

CHAPTER III.

Difficulty of conveying the impression caused by a

first view of the Falls of Niagara.—An Attempt to do
so.—The Falls described.—A thunder-storm over the
Great Cataracts.—The Rainbow.—Kindnesss and cour-
tesy of the Americans.—Their spirit of enterprise.—
Luxurious appointments of American steamers.—The
 Vlll CONTENTS.
PAGE

dimensions of the Falls.—Goat Island.—Quantity of

water precipitated over the Falls. — Grand and Navy
Islands . . . . . . - • • 18

CHAPTER IV.

Port Talbot.—Canadian carriages.—Vast extent of

American woods.—The hotel at Port Stanley.—Lake
Erie.— Mr. A and his family.— Col. Talbot, the
"Last of the Mohicans."—Instance of the memory of
North American Indians.—Another story of the same
kind.—A recurrence to Niagara.—A second thunder-
storm.—American forests.—Lake Erie by sunset.—The
maple, and the sugar made from it.—Coldness of Cana-
dian winters . . . . . . . . 31

CHAPTER V.

Return to New York.—Courtesy and hospitality of

the Americans.—Butterflies and humming-birds.—Rail-
roads through American forests. — Rapid progress of
American civilization.—Port Stanley.—Captain Bawbee.
—Description of Buffalo.—Trading facilities of that city.
—The United States' Military Academy.—Monument to
Kosciusko.—His garden. — West Point.—The Traitor
Arnold, and Major Andre.—Constitution Island.—Oppres-
sive heat of the weather 40

CHAPTER VI.

Boston.—The Park.—The Tremont Hotel.—Its luxu-

rious appointments.—Mr. and Mrs. Abbott Lawrence.
The "Book of the World."—Description of Boston;
the bridges.— Their immense length. — The Western
Avenue. — Boston harbour.—Anticipated rejoicings on
the Anniversary of American Independence.— Boston
 CONTENTS. ix
PAGE
newspapers and reviews.—Supply of water to the city.
— Its docks and wharves. — Public buildings. — The
State House.—The Custom House.—The Athenseum.—
The Exchange and the Lowell Institute.—The crowded
stores.—Constant alarm of fires 50

CHAPTER VII.

Plans for the future. — Musical taste of the New

Englanders.—Cholera in New York.—Transparency of
the American atmosphere. — American newspapers.—
Their personalities.—A signal instance.—Mrs. S. M
of New York and her family.—Miss G of Boston.
—The loud talking ascribed to American ladies.—The
town of Gloucester.—Its trade . . . . .63

CHAPTER VIII.

Return to Boston.—Fire-engines and their horses.—

The cradle of American Liberty.—Faneuil Hall.—Boston
prohibition of street-smoking.—Statue of Washington
in the State House.—Anecdote connected with it.—A
drum preserved in the State House.—Visit to Cambridge.
— Mount Auburn. — Harvard University. — Professors
Pierce, Silliman, Guyon, Sparks, and Agassiz.— Live
coral insects preserved by Professor Agassiz.—Reflec-
tions suggested by them.—Museum of Professor Agassiz. 70

CHAPTER IX.

Plymouth.— The Pilgrim-Fathers.— Mrs. Warren, a

descendant of one of the Pilgrims.—Visit from Mr.
Prescott the Historian.—Graves of the Pilgrim-Fathers.
—Visits from Daniel Webster and from Mr. N . P. Willis.
—Samoset the Indian Chief.—Energy of the Pilgrim-
Fathers—Altered face of their country . . .81
 CONTENTS.

CHAPTER X.
PAGE

Green Harbour, the seat of Daniel Webster.—His

guests.—Description of his mansion.—The militia gene-
ral—Enterprise of American lady-travellers.—An in-
stance.—Mrs. C from China.—Great Intellectual
powers of Mr. Webster.—A storm.—" My Kingdom for
a Pin."—Anecdote of Lady .— The Sole American
with an Aristocratic Title.—Extraordinary popularity of
Mr. Webster in New England.—Anecdote of Mr. Web-
ster.—That statesman and Mr. Clay never Presidents of
the United States.—A cause assigned.—Appointment of
illiterate political postmastmers. — Mode of living at
Green Harbour 87

CHAPTER XI.

Visit to Mr. and Mrs. Prescott at Nahant.—Paucity of

trees there.—A magnificent water-melon. — Beauty of
Boston Harbour.— Poetical additional names given to
American cities. — New Bedford.—Its population and
trade.—Delicate politeness of a descendant of William
Penn.—Martha's vineyard.—The hostess, her son and
daughter.— Woodsville.— Naushon. — Its loveliness.—
The one grave.—Reflection suggested by it.—An ancient
place of Indian sepulture.—Verses suggested by Naushon. 103

CHAPTER XII.

The Blind Asylum at Boston and Laura Bridgeman.

New Haven, the "City of Elms."—Yale College.—Its
objects of science and art.—Professor Silliman, jun.
Governor Yale.—His epitaph.—His English connexions.
—Black domestic servants.—Two opinions of them. A
sable Count D'Orsay.—The American character.—Scenery
about New Haven.—Katydids, tree-frogs, • and crickets.
—Connecticut Yankees
 CONTENTS. xi

CHAPTER XIII.
PAGE
Bridgeport.—The Irish housemaid.—Ultra-Republicans
even in America.—The Great Croton Aqueduct described.
—Supply of water to New York.—New York trotters.
—Delmonico's hotel.—Excursion with American friends.
— Glorious scenery of Staten's Island. — Greenwood
cemetery.—Its extent, scenery, and monuments.—Miss
Lynch the poetess, and Frederika Bremer . . .130

CHAPTER XIV.

Philadelphia.—Incessant uproar in that city.—Its Cus-

tom-House and cemeteries. — Baltimore. — Battle and
Washington monuments. — The catholic cathedral. —
The merchants' shot tower.—Its trade and commerce.
—Its increase and population. — Baltimore clippers—
Barnum's hotel.—Sensitiveness of Americans to cold.—
The deaf gentleman and his stentorian friend.—An-
thracite coal fires . . . . . . . 139

CHAPTER XV.
The City of Washington.—Pensylvania-Avenue.—The
" City of Magnificent Distances."—The stentorian gen-
tleman and his hogs.—The Capitol described—Monu-
ment to Washington.—The Navy Yard.—Georgetown.—
A digression to Tunis.—Public Buildings—The Post-
office.—The Patent Office.—The Treasury.—The Pre-
sident's Mansion.—The "White House." — Visit to
General Taylor, the late President. — His daughter,
Mrs. Bliss.—Appearance of General Taylor.—His affabi-
lity.—His conversation.—Invitation to the authoress.—
Heat of the weather in November . . . .148
 Xll CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XVI.
PACK
Discomforts of travelling over the Alleghanies.—Mr.
Clay. — Pittsburg as sable as Sheffield. — Its popula-
tion.— Visit to a glass factory and iron foundry.— A
dingy vehicle. — Factories and foundries in Pittsburg.—
The Ohio. — The new suspension bridge at Wheeling. —
Accidents to steamers caused by it. — Courtesy of the
captains and clerks of steamers. — Cincinnati. — German
and Irish immigrants compared. — Verses addressed to
emigrants 160

CHAPTER XVII.

Description of Louisville. — Its trade and natural pro-

ductions.—Its soil and rivers.—The Kentucky caves.—
A visit to one. — Its avenues, domes, cataracts, pits, and
rivers. — A sea in it. — The vocifeious bats. — Echoes of
the cave. — The cave once the residence of consumptive
patients.—The eyeless fish.—The narrow path and the
fat Englishman.—Vast extent of the cave.—Verses sug-
gested by it . . . . . . . . .170

CHAPTER XVIII.
A conversation in a coach.—A loquacious gentleman.—
The other passenger.—His appearance.—An American
argument touching the potency of money to make a gen-
tleman. — An exhibition of genuine feeling. — A Ken-
tuckian's notion of England. — The slight value set on
human life in America.—The duel.—Pigs paramount in
Louisville. — Herds of swine on the Alleghanies. — The
hotel-keeper and the Kentucky cave. — Danger attending
a visit to the caves . . . . . . . 182
 CONTENTS. Xlll

CHAPTER XIX.
PAGS
The steamer from Louisville.—The Passengers.—The
lady in the turban, and her refractory charges.—A family
of another description. — The Lilliputian Liston and his
model grandmamma.—The Sonnambula of a stewardess.
—St. Louis.—Ravages of the cholera in that city.—Rapid
growth of St. Louis. — Vast number of German immi-
grants. — Progress of American civilization. — Prairie
hunting. — Frequency of steamboat accidents on the
Mississippi 197

CHAPTER XX.

The Mississippi. — Its impression upon the Author. —

Its banks. — The immense forests seen from it. — Its
varied scenery.— The Mississippi by night. — Hosts of
floating trees. — Steamer " snagged." —Visit to the late
President's cotton plantation. — His slaves. — Interesting
Negro children.— Shanty of Mr. Taylor, the President's
son.—- An aged slave.—His extreme politeness. — The
black valet of Mr. Taylor. — The immediate Slave Abo-
lition question. — Instances of ill-treatment of slaves.—
Persecution of musquitoes . . . . . . 209

CHAPTER XXI.

The St. Charles Hotel at New Orleans.—The Swedish

Waiter and Jenny Lind. — Oppressive heat in December
in New Orleans. — Vast quantities of cotton. — The pro-
bable future aspect of the banks of the Mississippi. —
Commerce of New Orleans.—The city. — Its port.— Its
inhabitants.—Its churches.—The city subject to inunda-
tions.—Places of sepulture above ground.—Wreck of the
Louisiana steamer.—Wonderful capabilities of the valley
VOL. i. a 7
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