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 eyewitness travel

PortugaL
EYEWITNESS TRAVEL

PORTUGAL
Main Contributor Martin Symington
 Project Editor Ferdie McDonald
Art Editor Vanessa Hamilton
Editors Caroline Ball, Francesca Machiavelli
Introducing Lisbon
Designers Anthea Forlee, Carolyn Hewitson, Portugal
Nicola Rodway, Dutjapun Williams
Main Contributors Susie Boulton,
Discovering Portugal 10 Introducing Lisbon 64
Christopher Catling, Clive Gilbert, Marion
Kaplan, Sarah McAlister, Alice Peebles, Carol
Rankin, Norman Renouf, Joe Staines, Robert Putting Portugal on Alfama 70
Strauss, Martin Symington, Nigel Tisdall, the Map 18
Tomas Tranæus, Edite Vieira Baixa and Avenida 82
Photographers Joe Cornish, Paul Harris, A Portrait of Portugal 20
Robert Reichenfeld, Linda Whitwam, Peter Bairro Alto and Estrela 90
Wilson, Francesca Yorke Portugal Through the
Illustrators Richard Draper, Paul Guest, Year 34 Belém 102
Stephen Gyapay, Claire Littlejohn, Maltings
Partnership, Isidoro González-Adalid Cabezas/
The History of Further Afield 114
Acanto Arquitectura y Urbanismo S.L.,Paul
Weston, John Woodcock, Martin Woodward Portugal 40
Shopping in Lisbon 128
Printed and bound in China
First published in the UK in 1997 by Dorling Entertainment in
Kindersley Limited Lisbon 130
80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL
18 19 20 21 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Lisbon Street Finder 132
Reprinted with revisions
1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004,
2006, 2008, 2010, 2012, 2014, 2016, Portuguese water jug,
2018 Museu Guerra Junqueiro
Copyright 1997, 2018 © Dorling Kindersley
Limited, London
A Penguin Random House Company
All rights reserved. No part of this
publication may be reproduced, stored in
a retrieval system, or transmitted in any
form or by any means, electronic,
mechanical, photocopying, recording or
otherwise, without the prior written
permission of the copyright owner.
A CIP catalogue record is available from
the British Library.
ISBN 978-0-24130-931-5

Lisbon’s skyline as seen from across the Tagus, in Almada

The information in this

DK Eyewitness Travel Guide is checked regularly.
Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date as possible
at the time of going to press. Some details, however, such as telephone numbers,
opening hours, prices, gallery hanging arrangements and travel information are
liable to change. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences
arising from the use of this book, nor for any material on third party websites, and
cannot guarantee that any website address in this book will be a suitable source of
travel information. We value the views and suggestions of our readers very highly.
Please write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides, Dorling Kindersley,
80 Strand, London, WC2R 0RL, UK, or email: [email protected].

Title page View of Porto Moniz, with its natural rock pools, Madeira Front cover image A boat sails past the beautiful Ponta de
Piedade near the town of Lagos, the Algarve Back cover image The Alfama district of Lisbon
 Contents
Central Portugal Travellers’ Needs

Introducing Central Where to Stay 380

Portugal 148
Where to Eat and
The Lisbon Coast 154 Drink 396

Estremadura and Shopping in

Ribatejo 176 Portugal 416

The Beiras 200 Entertainment in

Portugal 420
Northern Portugal Sporting Holidays and
Outdoor Activities 422

Introducing Northern A traditional tram transports passengers

Portugal 230 around Porto Survival Guide
Douro and Trás-os-
Montes 238 Portugal’s Islands Practical
Minho 268 Information 430

Introducing Portugal’s Travel Information 440

Southern Portugal Islands 340
General Index 450
Madeira 346
Phrase Book 479
Introducing Southern The Azores 364
Portugal 290

Alentejo 296

Algarve 320

Mosteiro dos
Jerónimos, Lisbon
6  HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE

HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE

This guide helps you get the most from important sights, using maps, pictures
a visit to Portugal, providing expert and illustrations. Features cover topics
recommendations as well as detailed ranging from architecture and festivals to
practical information. The opening beaches and food. Hotel and restaurant
chapter, Introducing Portugal, maps the recommendations can be found in Travellers’
country and sets it in its historical and Needs. The Survival Guide contains practical
cultural context. Each of the nine regional information on everything from transport
chapters, plus Lisbon Area by Area, describe to personal safety.

Lisbon
Lisbon has been divided into of the major sights described. to locate as the order in
five main sightseeing areas. All sights are numbered and which they appear in the
Each of these areas has its own plotted on an Area Map. chapter follows the numerical
chapter, which opens with a list Information on the sights is easy order used on the map.

1 Area Map LISBON  103

BELÉM All the pages relating to

For easy reference, the sights At the mouth of the River Tagus, where the
caravels set sail on their voyages of discovery,
Belém is inextricably linked with Portugal’s
relatively green suburb with many museums,
parks and gardens, as well as an attractive
riverside setting with cafés and a promenade.
Lisbon have pink thumb tabs.
covered in the chapter are Golden Age (see pp50–53). When Manuel I
came to power in 1495 he reaped the profits
of those heady days of expansion, building
grandiose monuments and churches that
On sunny days there is a distinct seaside feel
to the embankment.
Before the Tagus receded, the monks in
the monastery used to look out onto the river

numbered and located on mirrored the spirit of the time. Two of the
finest examples of the exuberant and exotic
Manueline style of architecture (see pp28–9)
and watch the boats set forth. In contrast,
today several lanes of traffic along the busy
Avenida da Índia cut central Belém off from

a map. The sights are also

are the Mosteiro dos Jerónimos and the the picturesque waterfront, and silver and
Torre de Belém. Today Belém is a spacious, yellow trains rattle regularly past.

Sights at a Glance

marked on the Street Finder Museums and Galleries

2 Museu Nacional dos Coches
5 Museu Nacional de Arqueologia
6 Planetário Calouste Gulbenkian
Churches and Monasteries
4 Mosteiro dos Jerónimos pp108–9
w Ermida de São Jerónimo
e Igreja da Memória
Monuments
9 Monument to the Discoveries
Cultural Centres
8 Centro Cultural de Belém
Sights at a Glance lists the
maps on pages 132–45.
7 Museu de Marinha Historic Buildings

chapter’s sights by category:

0 Museu de Arte Popular
1 Palácio de Belém
Parks and Gardens q Torre de Belém p112 A
UD
AJ
3 Jardim Botânico Tropical t Palácio Nacional da Ajuda C. DO
M IR A N T E
Á

r Jardim Botânico da Ajuda

Churches, Museums and

AJ UDA
DA

Galleries, Historic Buildings,

A
CALÇAD

RC O A
ZA
MERCÊS
I
ÓR

S
VE
ME M
AL

Parks and Gardens.

NÇ

See also Street Finder

RUA DAS
A V.

C. DA
R UA G

G A LVÃO

pp132–45
DA I
LHA

A locator map shows clearly

A
RI
E S TÁ D I O Ó
EM
DA

M U N I C I PA L
DO

M
A
DO T. D
M AD

R E S T E LO
CALÇAD
S

DA
NE

RUA
EIRA

15
EA

LÇA

where the area is in relation

I
L

G OL E NA
. ALC R.
CA

DE O
R

EL
A

RUA ST
RE
DO
EIDA

DO
DA
S

A
RU A 1

I D
RU

A V E N
JER

A
LM

AJUD
R.

to other parts of the city.

4
DO

Ó N
A
M

DE
M

O
ISC
BELÉ

IM

NC
LO

FRA
O
UR

DOM
S

RUA
EN
DE

ÇO

ER RUA
R U A S ÃO F. X A V I
DE

DE B E L ÉM
300 m
E

AL
TORR

VIL

ME
A C

PRAÇA
IDA

DO
RRO

AS IMPÉRIO ÍNDI
A
DI
DA

EI A

DA Belém
U A
ME NID
O LO AVE
BA R T
NIDA

RUA
Estação Fluvial
SÍL
I A de Belém
ÍNDIA BRA
AVE

IDA DA DE
AVEN AV ENI
D A

j o
T e
0 metres 400

0 yards 400

Manueline arches in the cloister of Mosteiro dos Jerónimos For additional map symbols see back flap

104  LISBON BELÉM  105

2
Street-by-Street: Belém
Street-by-Street Map Portugal’s former maritime glory, expressed in
the imposing buildings such as the Jerónimos
monastery, is evident all around Belém. In
BELÉM

This gives a bird’s-eye view

Salazar’s (see p60) attempted revival
of awareness of Portugal’s Golden Age, the area
Tejo
along the waterfront, which had silted up since
the days of the caravels, was restructured to Locator Map

of the heart of each of the

See Lisbon Street Finder maps 1 & 2
celebrate the former greatness of the nation. 4 . Mosteiro dos Jerónimos
Praça do Império was laid out for the Exhibition Vaulted arcades and richly carved columns 3 Jardim Botânico Tropical
of the Portuguese World in 1940 and Praça adorned with foliage, exotic animals and Exotic plants and trees gathered from Portugal’s former
navigational instruments decorate the Manueline colonies fill these peaceful gardens that were once part of the

sightseeing areas.
Afonso de Albuquerque was dedicated to cloister of the Jerónimos monastery. Palácio de Belém.
Portugal’s first viceroy of India. The royal
Palácio de Belém, restored with gardens
0 metres 50
and a riding school by João V in the Antiga Confeitaria de
18th century, briefly housed the royal Belém,a 19th-century café, sells 0 yards 50
pastéis de Belém, rich custard in
family after the 1755 earthquake.
a flaky pastry cup.

5 Museu Nacional de Arqueologia

Archaeological finds ranging from an
2 . Museu Nacional dos Coches
Iron Age gold bracelet to Moorish
This 18th-century coach used by the
artifacts are among the interesting
ambassador to Pope Clement XI is part of the
exhibits on display.
T R AV E S S A museum’s collection. The museum was
DOS FERRE
IROS moved to the east side of Praça Afonso de
Alburquerque in 2016.
T. MART

L ARGO Central
IO
A PINTO

ÉR Lisbon

A suggested route for

MP DOS
O I
A D JERÓNIMOS
AÇ
PR
RUA DE BELÉM

a walk is shown in red. RUA VIEIRA P

ORTUENSE

Torre
de Belém
1 Palácio de Belém
(see p112) Also known as the Palácio Cor de Rosa
(pink palace) because of its faded pink
façade, the former royal palace is the
residence of the Portuguese president.
It also houses the Museu da Presidência
Rua Vieira Portuense runs along da República.
110  LISBON BELÉM  111
a small park. Its colourful 16th-
and 17th-century houses con-
trast with the typically imposing
shipbuilding from the 8 Centro Cultural 0 MAAT – Museu de buildings in Belém.
mid-15th century, de Belém Key Arte, Arquitetura e Praça Afonso de Albuquerque
capitalizing on the
experience of long- Praça do Império. Map 1 B5. Tel 213 Tecnologia
Suggested route is named after the first
612 400. @ 727, 728, 729, 751. v 15. Praça do Império, an impressive Portuguese viceroy of India. A
distance explorers. Av. Brasília, Central Tejo, 1300-598
£ Belém. Berardo Collection square that opens out in front of the Neo-Manueline column in the
Small replicas show Lisboa. Map 2 D5. Tel 210 028 130.
Museum: Tel 213 612 878. monastery, is lit up on special centre bears his statue, with
the transition from @ 727, 728, 729. v15. £ Belém.
occasions with a colourful light display
Open 10am–7pm daily. 7 & Open 12–8pm Wed–Mon. Closed Tue scenes from his life carved on
the bark to the in the central fountain.
∑ ccb.pt; ∑ museuberardo.pt
& public hols: 1 Jan, 1 May & 25 Dec. the base.
lateen-rigged caravel,
through the faster Standing between the Tagus & ∑ maat.pt;
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp386–7 and pp398–401
square-rigged and the Jerónimos monastery,
caravel, to the this stark, modern building was With a spectacular riverside
Portuguese nau. Also erected as the headquarters of view, the stylish Museu de Arte,
here are navigational the Portuguese presidency Arquitetura e Tecnologia is
instruments, of the European Community. operated by the EDP Foundation,
astrolabes and In 1993 it opened as a cultural The huge pavement compass in front of the Monument to the Discoveries and is dedicated to contemp-
replicas of 16th- centre offering performing arts, orary art, primarily Portuguese,
century maps showing music and photography. The royal patrons and all those the huge mariner’s compass along with modern architecture
the world as it was centre houses the Berardo who took part in the develop- cut into the paving stone was and technology. Popularly
known then. The
stone pillars, carved
with the Cross of the
Collection Museum, which has
contemporary art by the likes
of Francis Bacon, Willem de
ment of the Portuguese Age
of Discovery. The monument
is designed in the shape of a
a gift from South Africa in
1960. The central map, dotted
with mermaids and galleons,
known as MAAT, the exhibits
are housed in an award-
winning building designed by
Stars indicate the sights that no
Knights of Christ, are caravel, with Portugal’s coat

visitor should miss.

Kooning and Michel Basquiat. shows the routes of the the London-based architect
replicas of the types Both the café and restaurant of arms on the sides and the discoverers in the 15th and Amanda Levete. Its structure
of padrão set up as spill out onto the ramparts of sword of the Royal House of 16th centuries. Inside the is a sharp contrast to the well-
Façade of the Museu de Marinha monuments to Portu- the building, whose peaceful Avis rising above the entrance. monument a lift whisks you known Lisbon power station,
guese sovereignty on gardens of olive trees and Henry the Navigator stands up to the sixth floor where which stands next door, and
7Museu de the lands discovered. geometric lawns look out at the prow with a caravel in steps then lead to the top for forms an integral part of this
Marinha A series of rooms displaying over the quay and river. hand. In two sloping lines a splendid panorama of building complex. Visits to the
Praça do Império. Map 1 B4. Tel 213
models of modern Portuguese either side of the monument Belém. The basement level is MAAT include a tour of the
620 019. @ 727, 728, 729, 751. ships leads on to the Royal are stone statues of used for temporary exhibitions, iconic power station, not
v 15. £ Belém. Open 10am– Quarters, where you can see Portuguese heroes linked with but not necessarily related to forgetting the pedestrian roof
6pm Tue–Sun (18 Apr–1 Oct: to 5pm). the exquisitely furnished wood- the Age of Discovery, such as the Discoveries. from which visitors can gain
Closed 1 Jan, Easter, 1 May, 25 Dec. panelled cabin of King Carlos Dom Manuel I holding an The rather ostentatious stunning views of Lisbon and
& (free first Sun of month). 7 and Queen Amélia from the armillary sphere, the poet Padrão is not to everyone’s the Tagus river.
∑ ccm.marinha.pt royal yacht Amélia, built in Camões with a copy of Os taste but the setting is Aside from unique temporary
Scotland in 1900. Lusíadas and the painter Nuno undeniably splendid and the exhibitions, the museum also
The Maritime Museum was The modern, incongruous Gonçalves, as well as famous caravel design is imaginative. features the Pedro Cabrita
inaugurated in 1962 in the pavilion opposite houses ori- The modern complex of the Centro navigators, cartographers and The monument looks Reis Collection, which consists
west wing of the Jerónimos ginal royal barges, the most Cultural de Belém kings. On the particularly dramatic when of some 400 works by over
monastery (see pp108–9). It extravagant of which is the monument’s viewed from the west in the 70 artists from the end of the

3
was here, in the chapel built by royal brig built in 1780 for north side, light of the late afternoon sun. 20th century.
Henry the Navigator (see p53), Maria I. The collection ends 9 Monument to

Detailed Information
that mariners took mass before with a display of seaplanes, the Discoveries Eastern Face of the
embarking on their voyages. including the Santa Clara Padrão dos Descobrimentos,
Monument to the
A hall about the Discoveries which made the first crossing Discoveries
Avenida de Brasília. Map 1 C5.
illustrates the progress in of the South Atlantic in 1922. Tel 213 031 950. @ 727, 728.

All the sights in Lisbon are described

v 15. £ Belém. Open Oct–Feb:
10am–6pm Tue–Sun; Mar–Sep:
Vasco da Gama (c.1460–1524)
10am–7pm daily. Closed 1 Jan, 1
In 1498 Vasco da Gama sailed around the May, 25 Dec. & for lift.

individually. Addresses and practical

Cape of Good Hope and opened the sea ∑ padraodosdescobrimentos.pt
route to India (see pp52–3). Although the
Hindu ruler of Calicut, who received him Standing prominently on the
wearing diamond and ruby rings, was Belém waterfront, this massive
Afonso V
not impressed by his humble offerings of angular monument, the

information are provided. The key to

(1432–81),
cloth and wash basins, da Gama returned Padrão dos Descobrimentos,
patron of the
to Portugal with a cargo of spices. In was built in 1960 to mark the
first explorers Pedro Álvares
1502 he sailed again to India, establishing 500th anniversary of the death
Cabral (1467–1520),
Portuguese trade routes in the Indian of Henry the Navigator (see Henry the Navigator

the symbols used in the information

discoverer of Brazil
Ocean. João III nominated him Viceroy p53). The 52-m (170-ft) high (1394–1460)
of India in 1524, but he died of a 16th-century painting of Vasco monument, commis-sioned Fernão Magalhães Padrão erected
fever soon after. da Gama in Goa by the Salazar regime, com- Vasco da Gama (Magellan), who crossed by Diogo Cão in the
memorates the mariners, (1460–1524) the Pacific in 1520–21 Congo in 1482
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp386–7 and pp398–401

block is shown on the back flap.

 CENTRAL PORTUGAL  155
HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE  7
THE LISBON COAST
Within an hour’s drive northwest of Lisbon you can reach the
rocky Atlantic coast, the wooded slopes of Sintra or countryside
dotted with villas and royal palaces. South of Lisbon you can

Portugal
enjoy the sandy beaches and fishing towns along the coast or

1 Introduction
explore the lagoons of the Tagus and Sado river estuaries.

Region By Region
Traders and invaders, from the Phoenicians communities still

A general account of the

to the Spanish, have left their mark in this remain. Lively fish markets
region, in particular the Moors whose forts offer a huge variety of fresh fish and
and castles, rebuilt many times over the seafood; Palmela and the Sado region are

landscape, history and

centuries, can be found all along this noted for their wine; sheep still roam the
coast. After Lisbon became the capital in
1256, Portuguese kings and nobles built
unspoilt Serra da Arrábida, providing milk
for Azeitão cheese; and rice is the main Outside Lisbon, the rest of
character of each region is
summer palaces and villas in the countryside crop in the Sado estuary. Traditional
west of the city, particularly on the cool,
green heights of the Serra de Sintra.
industries also survive, such as salt
panning near Alcochete and marble Portugal has been divided into
given here, explaining both
Across the Tagus, the southern shore quarries at Pero Pinheiro.
(Margem Sul) could be reached only by
ferry, until the suspension bridge was built
Though the sea is cold and often rough,
especially on west-facing coasts, the nine regions, each of which
how the area has developed
in 1966. Now, the long sandy beaches of beaches are among the cleanest in

has a separate chapter. The most

the Costa da Caparica, the coast around Europe. As well as surfing, fishing and
the fishing town of Sesimbra and even the scuba diving, the region provides splendid

over the centuries and what

remote Tróia peninsula have become golf courses, horse riding facilities

interesting cities, towns and

popular resorts during the summer and a motor-racing track. Arts and
months. Fortunately, large stretches of entertainment range from music and

attractions it has to offer the

coast and unspoilt countryside are being cinema festivals to bullfights and country
protected as conservation areas and fairs where regional crafts, such as
nature reserves. Despite the region’s rapid hand-painted pottery, lace and baskets,
sights to visit are located and
visitor today.
urbanization, small fishing and farming are on display.

numbered on a Regional Map.

2 Regional Map
156  CENTRAL PORTUGAL THE LISBON COAST  157

Exploring the Lisbon Coast

Palácio de Mafra (see p158), an 18th-century Baroque palace and monastery on the Lisbon coast
North
Aerial view of a stretch of coastline in the Serra of the Tagus, the beautiful hilltown of Sintra is
da Arrábida
Getting Around
Motorways give quick access from
Lisbon to Sintra, Estoril, Palmela and
Setúbal. Main roads are generally
This shows the main road
network and gives an
dotted with historic palaces and surrounded by wooded
hills, at times enveloped in an eerie sea mist. On the well-signposted and surfaced, though
Torres Vedras traffic congestion can be a problem,
coast, cosmopolitan Cascais and the traditional particularly at weekends and holidays.
Turcifal
fishing town of Ericeira are both excellent Encarnação Watch out for potholes on smaller

illustrated overview of
Sobral de
bases from which to explore the rocky Monte Agraço roads. Fast, frequent trains run from
Ribamar
coastline and surrounding countryside. Lisbon: from Cais do Sodré station to
Santo Isidoro
South of the Tagus, the Serra da Arrábida Vila Franca do Estoril and Cascais, from Roma Areeiro
and Entrecampos stations to Queluz

the region. All entries are

Rosário
and the rugged coast around Cabo ERICEIRA
Sobreiro
Murgeira and Sintra and from Rossio station to
Espichel can be visited from the small Queluz and Sintra. Trains south to
port of Sesimbra. Inland, the nature PALÁCIO DE Milharado
Setúbal, Alcácer do Sal and beyond
MAFRA Malveira

numbered and there

reserves of the Tagus and Sado Convento da Arrábida in the hills of the leave from Roma Areeiro, crossing the
estuaries offer a quiet retreat. LISBOA Alverca do
Ribatejo Serra da Arrábida April 25 bridge. There are good bus
Cheleiros services to all parts of the region,
Lousa
ia

São João das most of which leave from Sete Rios.

ra

are also useful tips on

Póvoa de
or

Lampas
oS

Pero Pinheiro Santa Iria

Azenhas do
Ri

Sights at a Glance Mar Loures

São João da Talha
Vila Franca de Xira
Praia das
1 Palácio de Mafra Maçãs Caneças
MONSERRATE
o

2 Ericeira

getting around the region.

Te j

COLARES R e s e r va
3 Colares SINTRA Odivelas N a t u ra l d o
Sacavém E s t u á r i o d o Te j o
5 Monserrate Cabo da A Belas
Roca S E R R A D E S I N T R Canha Rib
6 Sintra pp162–7 eira
PALÁCIO DE ALCOCHETE de Canh
7 Cascais Malveira da Serra QUELUZ a
Rio

Alcabideche
8 Estoril Guincho
Samouco
9 Palácio de Queluz pp170–71 LISBON
0 Alcochete Caxias Montijo
Boca do Inferno ESTORIL Atalaia
Pegões Velhos
q Costa da Caparica Oeiras Almada
w Cabo Espichel CASCAIS Trafaria Rio Frio
Carcavelos
Barreiro
e Sesimbra Arieiro Moita Évora
r Palmela COSTA DA CAPARICA Seixal Pinhal Novo Poceirão
t Serra da Arrábida Santo António
y Setúbal
da Charneca
SETÚBAL
Each area of Portugal can
u Península de Tróia Coina
i Alcácer do Sal
ATLANTIC Águas Marateca
0 kilometres 10 OCEAN PALMELA de Moura
Tours Marco do Grilo

be identified quickly by its

0 miles 5
Vila Fresca de
4 Serra de Sintra Azeitão A
Lagoa de BID SETÚBAL
Vila Nogueira RÁ
Albufeira de Azeitão AR

colour coding, shown on

R e s e r va
DA Tróia N a t u ra l d o Palma ho
tin
Alfarim RA Figueirinha
Estuário do Sado
Pinheiros M
ar
R

Santana Ri Estação
SE

Pinheiro
ão

Portinho o
S

Sad

the inside front cover.

de

da Arrábida PENÍNSULA o
ira

Nossa Senhora SESIMBRA DE TRÓIA

be

do Cabo
Ri

Baía de
Key CABO ESPICHEL Montalvo
Setúbal
Motorway
Secondary road Comporta
ALCÁCER DO SAL
Minor road
Scenic route Grândola

Main railway
Minor railway
Regional border 174  CENTRAL PORTUGAL THE LISBON COAST  175

Cabo da Roca on the western edge of Serra de Sintra

Fishing boats in the harbour
the lofty interior is adorned with forest, which has been explored
at Sesimbra
twisted columns, carved in and inhabited since 3500 BC.
For additional map symbols see back flap three strands from pinkish Otters, water birds (including
Arrábida limestone, and rope- storks and herons), oysters and a
like stone ribs decorating the great variety of fish are found in
roof, recognized as the earliest the reserve. The old tidal water
examples of the distinctive mill at Mouriscas, 5 km (3 miles)
Manueline style (see pp28–9). to the east of Setúbal, uses the
On Rua do Balneário, in different levels of the tide to
the old monastic quarters, a turn the grinding stones. Rice-
museum houses 14 remarkable growing and fishing are the
paintings of the life of Christ. main occupations today, and
The works are attributed to the pine trees around the lagoon
followers of Jorge Afonso are tapped for resin.
(1520–30), influenced by
the Flemish school. O Reserva Natural do Estuário
do Sado
E Museu de Arqueologia n Praça da República, Setúbal View over Alcácer do Sal and the River Sado from the castle
e Etnografia (265 541 140).

3
Avenida Luísa Todi 162. Tel 265 239 flats are reached by walkways here, and the castle later became

Detailed Information
365. Open 9am–12:30pm & 2–5:30pm raised on stilts. From here to a stronghold for the Romans.
Tue–Sat. Closed public hols. Alcácer do Sal, great stretches Rebuilt by the Moors, it was finally
The archaeological museum of pine forest line the road, conquered by Afonso II in 1217.
displays a wealth of finds from and there are the first glimpses The restored buildings have

All the important towns and

digs around Setúbal, including of the cork oak countryside taken on a new life as a pousada
Bronze Age pots, Roman coins typical of the Alentejo. (see p387), with sweeping views
and amphorae made to carry over the rooftops and untidy
wine and garum, a sauce made T Cetóbriga storks’ nests. Also here is the

other places to visit are

from fish marinated in salt and N253-1. Tel 265 499 413. Open Jun–Sep: Cripta Arqueológica do
herbs. The ethnography display 10am–1pm, 2:30–6pm Wed–Sun.. & Castelo, an archaeological
shows local arts, crafts and A boardwalk crosses the sand dunes to museum holding locally
Manueline interior of Igreja de Jesus, Setúbal industries, including the the beach of Tróia excavated items. The collections

described individually. They

processing of salt and cork i Alcácer do Sal include artifacts from the Iron
y Setúbal here. Rectangular tanks, carved over the centuries. u Península de Road map C6. * 14,000. £ @
Age, as well as from the Roman,
from stone, can be seen under Moorish and medieval periods.
Road map C5. * 119,000. £ @
the glass floor of the Regional + Castelo de São Filipe Tróia n Largo Luís de Camões (265 009
987). ( 1st Sat of month. There are pleasant cafés
g n Casa da Baía, Avenida Luísa

are listed in order, following Todi 468 (265 545 010 or 915 174 442). Tourist Office at No. 10 Travessa Estrada de São Filipe. Tel 265 545 010. Road map C5. @ g Tróia. n Tróia along the riverside promenade
Frei Gaspar. The star-shaped fort was built in Resort (265 499 400/421). Bypassed by the main road, the and several historic churches.
Although this is an important 1595 by Philip II of Spain during ancient town of Alcácer do Sal The bullring is a focus for
industrial town, and the third- R Igreja de Jesus the period of Spanish rule (see High-rise holiday apartments (al-kasr from the Arabic for castle, summer events and hosts the

the numbering given on the

largest port in Portugal (after Largo de Jesus. Tel 913 873 015. pp54–5) to keep a wary eye on dominate the tip of the Tróia and do sal from its trade in salt) agricultural fair in October.
Lisbon and Porto), Setúbal can Open 9:30am–1pm & 2–6pm Tue– pirates, English invaders and the peninsula, easily accessible from sits peacefully on the north bank
be used to explore the area. To Sat. 7 Museum: Tel 913 873 015. local population. A massive Setúbal by ferry. The Atlantic of the River Sado. The imposing E Cripta Arqueológica do Castelo
the south of the central gardens Open Tue–Sun. Closed public gateway and stone tunnel lead coast, stretching south for 18 km castle was a hillfort as early as the Castelo de Alcácer, Piso Inferior

Regional Map. Within each

and fountains are the fishing har- hols. & to the sheltered interior, which (11 miles) of untouched sandy 6th century BC. The Phoenicians Pousada Dom Afonso II. Tel 265 612
bour, marina and ferry port, and To the north of the old town, houses a bar, lounge area as beach, lined with dunes and established an inland trading port 058. Open Tue–Sun. 7 8
a lively covered market. North of this striking Gothic church is well as the original chapel. A pine woods, is now the haunt
the gardens is the old town, with one of Setúbal’s architectural broad terrace offers marvellous of sun-seekers in the summer.
Birds of the Tagus and

entry, there is further detailed

attractive pedestrian streets and treasures. Designed by the views over the city and the Sado Near Tróia, in the sheltered
squares full of shops and cafés. architect Diogo Boitac in 1494, estuary. The fort is undergoing lagoon, the Roman town of Sado Estuaries
The 16th-century cathedral, refurbishment and is Cetóbriga was the site of a Many water birds, including black-
dedicated to Santa Maria da due to reopen in 2016. thriving fish-salting trade, winged stilts, avocets, Kentish plovers

information on important
Graça, has glorious tiled panels established in the 3rd century. and pratincoles are found close to
dating from the 18th century, Environs The stone tanks and ruined areas of open water and mud flats
and gilded altar decoration. Setúbal is an buildings, which are signposted as well as the dried out lagoons of
Street names commemorate excellent starting as Ruinas Romanas, are open to the Tagus and Sado estuaries. Reed-

buildings and other sights.

two famous Setúbal residents: point for a tour by visit. To the south, smart holiday beds also provide shelter for nesting
Manuel Barbosa du Bocage car of the unspoilt villas and golf clubs are and support good numbers of little
(1765–1805), whose satirical Reserva Natural do springing up along the lagoon. bitterns, purple herons and marsh
poetry landed him in prison, Estuário do Sado, a Further on, Carrasqueira is an harriers. From September to March,
and Luísa Todi (1753–1833), vast stretch of mud old fishing community where the area around the Tagus estuary
a celebrated opera singer. In flats, shallow lagoons you can still see traditional reed is extremely important for wildfowl Black-winged stilt, a wader that
Roman times, fish-salting was Fisherman’s boat on the shallow mud flats of the Reserva and salt marshes houses. The narrow fishing and wintering waders. feeds in the estuaries
the most important industry Natural do Estuário do Sado with patches of pine boats moored along the mud
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp388–9 and pp401–2

164  CENTRAL PORTUGAL SINTRA  165

Palácio Nacional de Sintra VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Story boxes explore
At the heart of the old town of Sintra (Sintra Vila), a pair
of unusual conical chimneys rises high above the Royal
Practical Information
Largo Rainha Dona Amélia.
Tel 219 237 300.
specific subjects further.
Palace. The main part of the palace, including the central
∑ parquesdesintra.pt
block with its plain Gothic façade and the large kitchens Open 9:30am–6pm daily (29
beneath the chimneys, was built by João I in the late Mar–24 Oct: to 7pm). Closed
14th century, on a site once occupied by the Moorish 1 Jan, 25 Dec. 8 &.
rulers. The Paço Real, as it is also known, became the
favourite summer retreat for the court, and continued . Sala das Pegas
as a residence for Portuguese royalty until the 1880s. The ceiling shows 136 magpies (pegas)
Additions to the building by the wealthy Manuel I, in holding ribbons with João I’s motto Por . Sala dos Cisnes
the early 16th century, echo the Moorish style. Gradual
rebuilding of the palace has resulted in a fascinating
bem (for good) and roses to signify the
House of Lancaster, to
which Queen Filipa
The magnificent ceiling of the former banqueting hall, painted in
the 16th century, is divided into octagonal panels decorated with
swans (cisnes).
Sala das Sereias
For all the top sights, a
amalgamation of various different styles.
Visitors’ Checklist provides
belonged.
Intricate Arabesque
designs on16th-century
tiles frame this door in

the practical information

the Room of the Sirens.

you need to plan your visit.

Chapel

. Sala dos Brasões

The domed ceiling of this
majestic room is decorated with
stags holding the coats of arms
(brasões) of 72 noble Portuguese

4
families. The lower walls are
lined with 18th-century Delft-
like tiled panels.

KEY
The Top Sights
1 Jardim da Preta, a walled
garden
2 Quarto de Dom Sebastião,
These are given two or more
full pages. Historic buildings
the bedroom
3 The Sala das Galés (galleons)
4 The Torre dos Brasões has

are dissected to reveal their

dovecotes below the cornice
decorated with armillary spheres
and nautical rope. Entrance
5 The Sala dos Árabes is

interiors; museums and galleries

decorated with fine azulejos. 10th century 1495–1521 Reign of 1683 Afonso VI 1755 Parts of
First reference 1281 King Dinis orders Manuel I; major dies after being palace dam-
6 The kitchens, beneath the restoration of palace; aged in great
to the palace, restoration and imprisoned here
huge conical chimneys, have work is carried out by earthquake
as residence of Manueline additions for nine years by
spits and utensils once used for Moorish governor Moors living in Colares brother Pedro II (see pp66–7)

have colour-coded floorplans

preparing royal banquets.
7 Sala dos Archeiros, the 800 1000 1200 1400 1600 1800
Chapel
entrance hall Symmetrical Moorish 1147 Christian reconquest; 1385 João I orders 1880s Maria Pia (grand-
8 Manuel I added the ajimene patterns decorate the Afonso Henriques takes complete rebuilding

to help you locate the most

mother of Manuel II)
windows, a distinctive Moorish original 15th-century over palace of central buildings is last royal resident
design with a slender column chestnut and oak ceiling and kitchens
8th century Start of Moorish 1910 Palace becomes a
dividing two arches. and the mosaic floor of occupation of the region national monument
Siren, Sala das Sereias (c.1660)
the private chapel.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp388–9 and pp401–2
interesting exhibits.
INTRODUCING
PORTUGAL

Discovering Portugal 10–17

Putting Portugal on the Map 18–19
A Portrait of Portugal 20–33
Portugal Through the Year 34–39
The History of Portugal 40–61
10  INTRODUCING PORTUGAL

DISCOVERING PORTUGAL
The following itineraries have been designed can easily be combined into a two-week
to take in as many of Portugal’s highlights as tour. Finally, there are two more themed
possible, while keeping long-distance travel one-week itineraries, designed to showcase
to a minimum. First come three two-day tours the Alentejo’s medieval heritage and the Viana do
of, respectively, the vibrant capital Lisbon, the resort region of the Algarve, in southern Castelo

fascinating city of Porto and the beautiful Portugal. Travelled together, they provide Praia do
Cabedelo
island of Madeira. A one-week itinerary of a memorable 14-day jaunt. Pick, combine
northern Portugal and a themed one-week and follow your favourite tours, or simply
tour of the Atlantic coastline are next. These dip in and out and be inspired.

Porto

Aveiro

Leiria

View of Castro Laboreiro Batalha

Nazaré
Famous for a breed of sheepdog, this village lies in the Peneda
range, in northern Portugal, close to the border with Spain. Alcobaça
Berlenga
Islands
Peniche Óbidos

One Week in Key

Northern Portugal Northern Portugal tour
•
Get to know Portugal’s Atlantic Coastline tour
Lisbon
second-largest city, Porto. Medieval Portugal tour
•
Explore the rugged beauty Southern Portugal tour
of the Parque Nacional de
Peneda-Gerês.
•
Visit Braga and admire its
churches, 18th-century Atlantic
mansions and the sanctuary A Tour of the Atlantic Coastline Ocean
of Bom Jesus do Monte.
•
Immerse yourself in •
Visit Lisbon, Portugal’s •
Step back in time at
Guimarães, the birthplace cosmopolitan capital. Conímbriga, the largest
of the nation. •
Explore fairy-tale Óbidos, Roman site in Portugal.
•
Stand in front of Casa de a wedding present from •
Admire Coimbra’s
Mateus, the manor house a king to his queen. beautiful cathedrals and
depicted on the labels of •
Discover the reefs and its hallowed UNESCO-
Mateus Rosé. grottoes around the recognized university.
•
Take the Port Country Berlenga Islands. •
Walk the briny canals of Aljezur
Tour through the stunning •
Marvel at Batalha Aveiro before heading
Douro Valley, a UNESCO abbey, a masterpiece of for the river and lagoons Cabo de
São Vicente
World Heritage site. Portuguese Gothic. that fringe the city. Lagos
Sagres
Peninsula
Detail of a fresco depicting the Spanish conquest of Lisbon in 1580
 DISCOVERING PORTUGAL  11

Ponte
da Barca
Parque Nacional
Ponte de Peneda-Gerês
de Lima
Bom Jesus do Monte
Braga Citânia de Briteiros

Guimarães
Vila Real Alijó
Amarante Sabrosa
Casa de
Mateus Pinhão
Dour o
Peso da
Régua
The unspoilt Pinhão Beach in Lagos, Algarve
Fringed by rocky cliffs, secluded Pinhão Beach is in
a small bay near Lagos harbour.

A Tour of Medieval
Portugal
Coimbra •
Explore the splendid city
Conímbriga
of Évora, a UNESCO World
Heritage site.
•
Visit the stunning medieval
hamlet of Marvão, in the
Serra de São Mamede range.
ere

Walk the lofty battlements

Zêz

surrounding Elvas, located

Castelo de Vide near the Spanish border.
Marvão
Serra de
•
Take a guided tour of the
jo
Te São Mamede
ducal palace at Vila Viçosa
Portalegre
and then visit the castle.
•
Try the ewe’s milk cheese
in charming Serpa.
Estremoz •
Discover Roman and Islamic
Elvas
Vila Viçosa art in Mértola and stroll
0 kilometres 50 along the River Guadiana.
0 miles 50
•
Climb to the top of Beja’s
Évora landmark castle keep.
Monsaraz

Viana do
Alentejo
Amieira

A Week in Southern Portugal

Sado

Beja
•
Combine Faro, the •
Explore the remote
Serpa
Algarve’s capital, with Sagres peninsula and
the Parque Natural the Cabo de São
da Ria Formosa. Vicente promontory.
Mértola
•
Visit attractive Tavira, •
Travel to the Serra de
then head offshore to Monchique and relax
Guadia

Serra de sandy Ilha de Tavira. at the Caldas de

Monchique
Discover the lively resort Monchique spa resort.
na

Caldas de Monchique
•

Silves Alte Loulé of Lagos, with its wide •

Walk the red sandstone
Portimão bay and picture- battlements of Silves’s
Estoi Tavira
Faro postcard beaches. Moorish castle.
Parque Natural
da Ria Formosa
12  INTRODUCING PORTUGAL

earthquake of 1755. In the and winding alleys typical of

Two Days in Lisbon evening, soak up the bohemian this ancient quarter. Return
vibe of Bairro Alto (pp92–3). after dark and seek out one
Portugal’s cosmopolitan of the many traditional fado
capital melds the past Day 2 restaurants hidden away in this
with the present to offer Morning Take the number captivating neighbourhood.
a rich diversity of visitor 15 tram at Praça da Figueira
attractions. (p87) or the train at Cais do
Sodré and travel to Belém and
Two Days in Porto
•
Arriving Lisbon Airport is
the architecturally stunning
7 km (4 miles) northeast of Porto is Portugal’s second-
Mosteiro dos Jerónimos
the city. Taxis take about largest city. The historical
(pp108–9). Linger in the richly
20 minutes to get to the city centre is compact and easily
decorated cloisters before
centre; the Aerobus slightly explored on foot, and the
exploring the church of Santa
longer. The Metro is area is famous all over the
Maria, where the tombs of
inexpensive and efficient. world for its port wine.
Vasco da Gama and Luís de
Camões lie. Next, head for the •
Arriving Porto Airport is
Day 1 equally exuberant Torre de
20 km (12 miles) north of
Morning Start the day by Belém (p112). The tower’s
the city. Taxis take around
taking the Metro to Oriente Renaissance loggia affords fine
30 minutes to reach the
Station for Parque das Nações views across the River Tagus. For
city centre. The Metro
(p123). From here, it’s a short a truly outstanding panorama of
provides an efficient and
walk to the Oceanário de the area, however, head back
cheaper alternative, as
Lisboa (p123), home to along the esplanade and climb
do shuttle buses.
hundreds of aquatic species. to the top of the 52-m (170-ft)
Look out for the bizarre sunfish, Monument to the Discoveries •
Booking ahead The Palácio
the beautiful and delicate sea (pp110–11). Stop for a bite to eat da Bolsa.
dragon and, uniquely in Europe, at the Antiga Confeitaria de
sea otters. Afterwards, enjoy Belém (p105), where they serve
the views from the cable car pastéis de Belém – deliciously Day 1
that takes visitors from one end rich custard tarts. Morning Start with a visit to
of the park to the other. Stop the Sé (p246). The cathedral’s
to admire the striking Torre Afternoon Head back to Gothic 14th-century cloisters are
Vasco da Gama – Lisbon’s the city centre and Praça do particularly striking. The Casa-
tallest building – then break Comércio (p89), Lisbon’s huge Museu Guerra Junqueiro (p246)
for lunch at any one of the landmark square. From here, is located next door. Among the
promenade restaurants that walk up to the Castelo de São collections of religious art, rare
overlook the River Tagus. Jorge (pp80–81) and climb the ceramics and antique furniture
towers or stroll the shady is a colourful parade of Chinese
Afternoon Allow a good terrace for spectacular views dogs. Afterwards, explore the
hour to absorb the priceless over the city. Afterwards, amble traditional shops clustered
collection of art in the Museu down to Largo das Portas around Avenida Dom Afonso
Calouste Gulbenkian (pp118– do Sol (p72) and pause for Henriques before taking time
21). Exhibits include works by refreshments at the outdoor to marvel at the azulejos that
Rubens, Rembrandt and René café before venturing into decorate the interior of São
Lalique. Don’t miss the marble Alfama (pp72–3). Lose yourself Bento Station (p245). Next,
statue of Diana by the French in the maze of narrow streets climb the steps of the
sculptor Jean-Antoine Houdon.
Afterwards, take a leisurely
downhill stroll towards the
city centre through Parque
Eduardo VII (p117) and along
fashionable Avenida da
Liberdade (p86). For impressive
city views, take a ride on the
Elevador de Santa Justa (p88),
a Neo-Gothic lift that links the
Baixa (downtown) area of
Lisbon with the elegant Chiado
neighbourhood. Take a moment
to contemplate the evocative
ruins of the nearby 14th-century
Igreja do Carmo (p94), badly
damaged by the great Shoals of fish at the impressive Oceanário de Lisboa
For practical information on travelling around Portugal, see pp440–49
 DISCOVERING PORTUGAL  13

Afternoon While in the area,

visit the Sé (p352), the 16th-
century cathedral noted for its
intricately patterned ceiling and
beautifully carved choir stalls.
The island’s history is embodied
in Quinta das Cruzes (p352),
a mansion-museum built on
a spot where João Gonçalves
Zarco, the man who claimed
Madeira for Portugal in 1418, is
said to have lived. Spend some
time here before taking in the
nearby Convento de Santa
Clara (p352), where Zarco is
buried under the high altar.
View of the Castelo de São Jorge and the Baixa neighbourhood in Lisbon The convent walls feature some
fabulous 17th-century azulejos.
18th-century Torre dos Clérigos Nova de Gaia (p253), the centre End the day with a pre-booked
(p247) for a dizzy perspective of of port wine production. Join a tour of Blandy’s Wine Lodge
the city and the distant Douro pre-booked tour of one of the (p353), where fine vintage
Valley. The nearby Cordoaria wine lodges and enjoy tasting Madeira wines can be tasted.
gardens (p242) are an ideal some of the many wine varieties The restaurants and bars in the
picnic spot; alternatively, there on offer. End the day by walking Zona Velha (Old Quarter) offer
are plenty of cafés in the area. up to the esplanade in front of plenty of evening entertainment.
the Mosteiro da Serra do Pilar
Afternoon Join a pre-booked (p252) for majestic views of the Day 2: A Tour of the Island
guided tour of the Palácio da city and the river. Morning Head to the other
Bolsa (p246) and be dazzled side of the island and the
by the magnificently gilded coastal village of São Vicente
Arabian Room. Follow up with
Two Days in Madeira (p362). Join a guided tour of the
a visit to the nearby church of eerie underground caves and
São Francisco (p247). Don’t miss •
Arriving Cristiano Ronaldo lava channels at the Grutas e
the extraordinary Tree of Jesse International Airport is Centro do Vulcanismo, then
or the spooky catacombs. Next, 18 km (11 miles) east of browse the centre’s fascinating
head down to the river and the Funchal. Taxis charge a fixed exhibition. The route east to
Casa do Infante (p246), the fare into the city centre, and Santana (p357) skirts the
house where Prince Henry the the journey takes around northern coast and takes in
Navigator was supposedly born 30 minutes. A shuttle bus some stunning seascapes
in 1394. Spend the evening service runs throughout before turning inland to follow a
exploring the Ribeira (p242), the day. steeper, hairpin course. Look out
an area with a large number •
Transport A car is essential for the quirky A-framed houses
of excellent restaurants. for this trip. Taxis can be and the family-friendly Parque
hired to follow the same Temático da Madeira.
Day 2 route but will be expensive.
Morning Devote at least an Afternoon Incredible mountain
•
Booking ahead The Old
hour musing over the modern scenery provides the backdrop
Blandy Wine Lodge.
art collection in the Fundação for the drive to the pretty
de Serralves Museu de Arte hamlet of Ribeiro Frio (p357).
Contemporânea (p252). For a Day 1: Funchal Here you can park the car and
calm, scenic interlude, head to Morning Start the day early to follow a 30-minute levada walk
Foz do Douro, where the river experience the Mercado dos signposted “Balcões” (Balconies)
meets the ocean. Explore Forte Lavradores (p353) at its liveliest. to reach a viewpoint that affords
de São João Baptista da Foz Afterwards, take the scenic breathtaking views across the
(p252), a mighty sea fort dating cable car up to the Jardim laurel forest. Return to the car
from the 16th century. Stop for Botânico (p352) and admire the park and drive to the summit
lunch at a beachfront café. astonishing display of colourful of Pico do Arieiro (p357),
subtropical flora. On the return Madeira’s third-highest
Afternoon Take a tram back to to Funchal, board the cable car mountain. The mesmerizing
the Ribeira, then stroll across the to Monte (p354) and complete view takes in a landscape of
impressive Ponte Luís I (pp248–9), the descent by toboggan. Walk volcanic peaks and spectacular
built in 1886 by an assistant of back to the city centre for lunch mountain ridges poking
Gustave Eiffel. This landmark at one of the restaurants near through the clouds and is
bridge links the city with Vila Avenida Arriaga. especially dramatic at sunset.
14  INTRODUCING PORTUGAL

One Week in funicular that leads to the

Northern Portugal church of Bom Jesus. Return
to Braga for dinner.
•
Airports Arrive and depart
from Porto Airport. Day 5: Guimarães and
•
Transport A car is essential Citânia de Briteiros
for this trip. It’s a short drive to Guimarães
(pp286–7), the birthplace of
•
Booking ahead The Casa
the nation. Acquaint yourself
de Mateus.
with the brooding Castelo de
Guimarães before walking
Day 1: Porto through the Paço dos Duques,
Pick a day from the city itinerary the 15th-century palace built
on pages 12–13. The Neo-Classical basilica of Bom Jesus by Dom Afonso, Portugal’s
do Monte, near Braga first king. Nearby, the former
Day 2: Viana do Castelo monastery of Nossa Senhora
Head north to the 13th-century bridge to the 15th-century da Oliveira features a beautiful
town of Viana do Castelo church of Santo António and Romanesque cloister and
(pp280–81). From Praça da return later to browse the tradi- overlooks Largo da Oliveira,
República, the historic quarter tional open-air market for where lunch can be enjoyed
is easily explored on foot. souvenirs. Drive on to Ponte da alfresco. Use the afternoon
Admire the Gothic arches of Barca (p273) for a restaurant to visit Citânia de Briteiros
the restored Paços do Concelho, lunch or consider a picnic in the (p287), an Iron Age settlement
formerly the town hall, before tranquil Jardim dos Poetas (Poets’ of impressive dimensions.
taking in the imposing Igreja Garden). Carry on to explore the
Matriz, the 15th-century parish Parque Nacional de Peneda- Day 6: Amarante to Alijó
church. Shop for handicrafts, Gerês (pp276–7), one of Portugal’s Head south out of Guimarães
then pack a picnic and head to greatest natural attractions. If you to explore Amarante (pp254–5).
the beach of Praia do Cabedelo have time, visit the traditional A walk along the pretty river-
(p281). To reach it, cross the river villages of Soajo and Lindoso. front will lead to the Ponte
by ferry or via the road. Round de São Gonçalo and the
off the day by visiting the basilica Day 4: Braga 16th-century Igreja de São
of Monte de Santa Luzia (p281), The drive south brings you Gonçalo. Continue east to Vila
5 km (3 miles) north of the town to Braga (pp282–3). Begin Real (p261) for lunch, before
centre. From here, you can enjoy by visiting the Sé, the city’s heading to Mateus and the
views of Viana and the coast. cathedral, which is noted for magnificent Casa de Mateus
its ornate chapel and Baroque (pp260–61). This 18th-century
Day 3: Ponte de Lima to organ. Pause for coffee in the manor house is famously
Parque Nacional de delightful 19th-century salon- depicted on the labels of
Peneda-Gerês style Café Brasileira, then look Mateus Rosé wine. Book ahead
Head east out of Viana do out for the impressive 14th- for a tour of the ornate interior
Castelo towards Ponte de Lima century Torre de Menagem as and the beautiful landscaped
(p278), a picturesque town on you head for Praça da República, gardens. The route to Alijó
the banks of the River Lima. the central square. Devote the (p259) takes you deep into
Wander the narrow streets and afternoon to exploring the port wine country.
look out for the medieval forti- sanctuary of Bom Jesus do
fications of the 15th-century Monte (pp284–5). Climb the Day 7: The Douro Valley
Palácio dos Marqueses de Ponte enormous Baroque Escadaria Start early and head for
de Lima. Amble across the Roman (stairway) or ride the vintage Sabrosa, another village on
the Port Country Tour route
(pp258–9), set above the River
Pinhão. Continue south through
countryside combed with
vineyards until you reach
Pinhão. Stop here and admire
the fabulous azulejo panels
decorating the railway station.
Next, follow the River Douro
west past numerous wineries,
many of which offer tours and
port-wine tasting, to reach
Peso da Régua. A leisurely drive
along the banks of the Douro
The Ponte de São Gonçalo, leading to the Igreja de São Gonçalo in Amarante takes you back to Porto.
For practical information on travelling around Portugal, see pp440–49
 DISCOVERING PORTUGAL  15

A Tour of the Atlantic

Coastline
Explore Estremadura and
the Beiras regions for their
historic cities, impressive
monuments and lively
coastal resorts.
•
Airports Arrive at Lisbon
Airport and depart from
Porto Airport, or vice versa if
you reverse the itinerary.
•
Transport A car is essential
The picturesque, flower-filled cobbled streets of Óbidos for this trip.

Day 1: Lisbon magnificent abbey of Santa decorated Biblioteca Joanina

Pick a day from the city itinerary Maria da Vitória. Marvel at and the exuberant Capela de
on page 12. the Royal Cloister and the São Miguel. Other attractions
Unfinished Chapels. Afterwards, are the nearby cathedrals:
Day 2: Óbidos to Peniche linger in the Founder’s Chapel, Sé Velha, one of the finest
Begin your day with a visit to where Henry the Navigator is Romanesque buildings in
the enchanting medieval buried. The next stop is the Portugal, and Sé Nova, noted
hilltown of Óbidos (pp180–81). attractive town of Leiria (p187). for its elaborate façade. Browse
Walk the sentry path along the Work up an appetite by beating the Museu Nacional Machado
castle battlements for fine views a path up to the splendid castle. de Castro, a highlight of which
of the town centre and Admire the views from the is the collection of medieval
surrounding countryside. Next, loggia before descending back sculpture. Later, walk across
call in at Peniche (p180). A visit into town. After lunch, take a the Ponte de Santa Clara and
to the Museu de Peniche walk in the Pinhal de Leiria, admire the city from the other
includes access to the prison a pine forest, then relax on the side of the River Mondego.
cells inside the 16th-century beach. End the day with dinner Spend the evening in the
Fortaleza. Later, pack a picnic in Leiria’s charming old quarter. Arco de Almedina area, where
lunch and take the ferry to the there are excellent restaurants.
Berlenga Islands (p180). Spend Day 5: Coimbra
the afternoon on this isolated Start off early to explore Day 6: Aveiro
archipelago, then head back for Conímbriga (p214), the largest Aveiro (pp206–7) offers a
dinner in one of Peniche’s and most extensively excavated complete change of scenery.
famed seafood restaurants. Roman site in Portugal, then Follow the Canal Central,
carry on to Coimbra (pp208–11). where colourful seaweed-
Day 3: Alcobaça to Nazaré Begin your visit in the scholarly collecting moliceiros are
First stop is Alcobaça (pp184–5), environs of the University moored. The Museu de
for the hallowed 12th-century (pp212–13), with the richly Aveiro features an absorbing
Mosteiro de Santa Maria de collection of 15th-century
Alcobaça, Portugal’s largest Portuguese primitive paintings,
church. Spend time wandering among other rare exhibits.
the beautiful and serene Cloister Amble over to the old quarter
of Dom Dinis, then admire the to explore the Canal das
intricately carved tombs of Pirâmides and the Canal de
Pedro I and Inês de Castro. Next, São Roque before heading
travel to the lively coastal town for the busy Praça Humberto
of Nazaré (p186). Take the Delgado for lunch. In the
funicular to Sítio, a tiny village afternoon, explore the Ria
set on a cliff high above the de Aveiro (p207) and the
town. Visit the pocket-sized picturesque fishing villages
chapel of Ermida da Memória of Torreira and São Jacinto.
and the 17th-century church of Leave time at the end of the
Nossa Senhora da Nazaré. day to tour the Museu da
Spend the evening soaking in Vista Alegre, where you can
the nightlife near the beach. purchase fine porcelain.

Day 4: Batalha to Leiria Day 7: Porto

Drive to Batalha (pp188–9) and View of Coimbra and the River Mondego Pick a day from the city itinerary
devote a good hour to the at sunset on pages 12–13.
16  INTRODUCING PORTUGAL

A Tour of Medieval cathedral of Nossa Senhora

Portugal da Assunção. In the afternoon,
meander around the arches
Delve into the Alentejo and of the enormous 17th-century
discover a region of vast Aqueduto da Amoreira. Round
rolling plains peppered with off the day by exploring the
whitewashed villages and nearby Forte de Santa Luzia.
hilltop hamlets crowned
by ancient castles. Day 4: Estremoz and
Vila Viçosa
•
Airports Arrive and depart
A leisurely drive west leads to
from Lisbon Airport, or
Estremoz (pp306–7). Explore
combine this itinerary
the medieval upper town,
with the tour of southern
dominated by a 13th-century
Portugal and depart from
marble keep. For a glimpse of
Faro Airport, or vice versa.
the castle and palace, visit the Praça do Giraldo, Évora’s main square, with
•
Transport A car is essential nearby pousada (p393). Double its remarkable mosaic paving
for this trip. back to Vila Viçosa (p305), where
•
Booking ahead Vila Viçosa. you can take a pre-booked Day 6: Mértola
guided tour of the splendid Paço Set high above the River
Ducal. After lunch, amble up to Guadiana, the vila museu of
Day 1: Évora the medieval castle for fine town Mértola (p319) is a melting pot
It’s a 90-minute drive from Lisbon and countryside views, then take of archaeological treasures.
to Évora (pp308–11). Start with a a leisurely walk through the Tour the castle and its grounds,
visit to the Sé, the city’s 13th- town’s narrow cobbled lanes. then admire the collection of
century cathedral. The upper Portuguese Islamic art in the
level of the Gothic cloisters offers Day 5: Monsaraz to Serpa Núcleo Islâmico or catch up on
a view across the rooftops. Head south to whitewashed the Roman period at the Núcleo
Around the corner is the Museu Monsaraz (p313). Peer inside Romano. For an interesting
de Évora, home to a dazzling the Igreja Matriz, then work your diversion, head to the old copper
Flemish polyptych in 13 panels. way past the rows of ancient mines at Minas de São Domingos.
Next, walk over to the ruins of the cottages to the medieval castle.
Roman Temple, then admire Clamber to the top of the keep Day 7: Beja and Viana
the 18th-century azulejos that for uninterrupted views in every do Alentejo
decorate the church of São João direction. Continue to the marina Drive to the regional capital of
Evangelista, part of the Convento at Amieira (p313); if there’s Beja (p317). The Museu Regional
dos Lóios. End the day at the time, indulge in some kayaking Rainha Dona Leonor, in a former
Capela dos Ossos, the macabre on Lake Alqueva. Next, drive convent, is worth visiting for its
chapel of bones inside the church through countryside peppered remarkable blend of archi-
of São Francisco. with cork oak and olive trees tectural styles. For an overview
to reach Serpa (p316). Walk of the old town, climb the Torre
Day 2: Serra de São Mamede under the monumental Porta de Menagem. After lunch, head
Drive north to the Serra de São de Beja and explore the castle, to Viana do Alentejo (p313).
Mamede (p300) to visit the spa but be sure to leave time to Explore the 14th-century castle
town of Castelo de Vide (p301). visit the quirky Watch Museum. and the impressive church of
Amble through the maze-like In the evening, sample the local Nossa Senhora de Aires before
Judiaria before venturing up to ewe’s milk cheese during dinner. heading back to Lisbon.
the ruins of the 14th-century
castle. Next, drive to idyllic
Marvão (p300). The castle, hewn
out of granite, dates from the
late 13th century. Continue to
Portalegre (pp300–301) and
admire the valuable collection
of tapestries in the Museu da
Tapeçaria de Portalegre.

Day 3: Elvas
Drive south to the frontier town
of Elvas (pp302–3). Walk along
the massive fortifications
around the old town, then visit
the early 13th-century castle.
Afterwards, walk down to the The medieval castle of Marvão, perched on a dramatic escarpment in the Alentejo
For practical information on travelling around Portugal, see pp440–49
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