(Ebook) The Turkey: An American Story by Andrew F. Smith ISBN 9780252031632, 0252031636 Complete Edition
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The
CULINARY HISTORY / COOKING
The
bird’s ascension to holiday mainstay—and the
techniques of stuffing—are also discussed.
SMITH
Turkey
“I’ve met a lot of turkeys in my life, but it wasn’t until I read
Turkey
As one of the easiest foods to cook, the turkey’s Andy Smith’s book that I finally began to understand them.”
culinary possibilities have been widely explored — BURT WOLF, public television journalist
if little noted. The second half of this book is
a collection of more than a hundred historical An
“Andy Smith tells us how Meleagris gallopavo—turkey to you—traveled from
THE TURKEY
and modern turkey recipes from across American
the New World to the Old after Columbus’s voyages of discovery, got its name,
An
America and Europe. With details on making
everything from sandwiches to salmagundi, was cooked in sixteenth and seventeenth century Europe, supplanted the Story
The Turkey provides a look back at the varied goose in England on festive tables, went wild in America until it disappeared,
ANDREW F. SMITH
appetites of our ancestors and gives seasoned
cooks an opportunity to reintroduce a familiar
and finally ended up on the American table especially at Thanksgiving.
Along the way, he demolishes a few popular assumptions, fills us in on the American
development of the modern popular breeds, and traces the progression of
Story F
food in previously forgotten ways. ondly regarded as the centerpiece of
preparing turkeys for sale from the ‘New York Style’ (defeathered but whole)
family Thanksgiving reunions, the turkey
to the more recent ‘ready to cook.’ We learn about the unexpected connection
is a cultural symbol as well as a multi-billion-
between turkeys and TV dinners, how we came to talk turkey, and why we
andrew f. smith is a freelance writer
make wishes on wishbones. Andy details the reestablishment of wild stocks ANDREW F. SMITH dollar industry. As a bird, dinner, commodity,
and national icon the turkey has become
and heritage breeds and then piles up recipes, mostly historic ones, for
who teaches culinary history and professional as American as the bald eagle, with which
cooking turkey. Here are answers to all the turkey questions you ever had,
it competed for supremacy on the nation’s
food writing at the New School in Manhattan. and some you didn’t.”
insignia.
He is the author of many books, including — SANDRA OLIVER, publisher/editor of Food History News
The Tomato in America and The Peanut, and is Food historian Andrew F. Smith’s sweeping
and multifaceted history of Meleagris gallopavo
coauthor of Real American Food
Food. He is also the “The Turkey pulls together an impressive array of historical separates fact from fiction, serving as both
editor-in-chief of the Oxford Encyclopedia on sources into an engaging, in-depth survey of the natural, a solid historical reference and a fascinating
Food and Drink in America and serves as chair culinary, and ‘social’ history of the turkey in the United States.” general read. With characteristic wit and
of the Culinary Trust, the philanthropic arm — KATHLEEN CURTIN, author of Giving Thanks: Thanksgiving insatiable curiosity, Smith presents the turkey
Recipes and History from Pilgrims to Pumpkin Pie in ten courses, beginning with the bird itself
of the International Association of Culinary
(actually, several species of it) in the wild. The
Professionals (IACP). He can be reached at his Turkey subsequently includes discussions of
Website, www.andrewfsmith.com practically every aspect of the icon, including
its arrival in early America, how it came
to be called “turkey,” its domestication and
A volume in The Food Series mating habits, the expansion of the bird’s
territory into Europe, conditions in modern
Jacket art from a postcard (ca. 1909) in the author’s turkey processing plants, and the surprising
ILLINOIS
collection. boom-or-bust cycles in turkey husbandry. The
isbn 0–252–03163–6
University of Illinois Press
Urbana and Chicago
www.press.uillinois.edu
,!7IA2F2-adbgdc!:t;K;k;K;k
The Turkey
General Editor
Andrew F. Smith, American Forum for Global Education
Editorial Board
Joseph Carlin, Food Heritage Press
Jessica Harris, Queens College
Karen Hess, Independent Writer
Bruce Kraig, Roosevelt University
Notes / 169
Selected Bibliography and Resources / 205
Index / 219
Illustrations follow page 66.
Preface
y fondest childhood food memories relate to the traditional
Thanksgiving feast and its centerpiece, the turkey. In south-
ern California in the 1950s the celebration started at school with
Thanksgiving-related arts and crafts such as tracing our hands on
construction paper and then coloring in the gobbler’s features and
tail feathers. Frequently, there were dramatic reenactments of the
“First Thanksgiving,” with students playing Pilgrims and their
gracious friends the American Indians, who kindly supplied much
of the food. At lunch, the school cafeteria dished up tasteless tur-
key, nondescript gravy, overcooked vegetables, and pastel mashed
potatoes produced from powder, but we knew it was just a feeble
foretaste of what was to come on our family tables on Thanksgiv-
ing Day.
Thanksgiving was the one holiday when the extended family—
grandparents, aunts, uncles, cousins, and friends—came together.
The Thanksgiving meal, served in the dining room or if more
space were needed in a rearranged living room, was shared late in
the afternoon. Everyone brought something: potato salad, wine,
baked beans, cranberry sauce, and apple, mincemeat, or pumpkin
pie. The hosts (my parents alternated with grandparents and aunts)
provided the turkey, gravy, candied sweet potatoes (called yams in
our family), stuffing (usually called dressing), and anything that
had to be served hot. The turkey was always stuffed, and gravy was
made from the drippings.
Hours before dinnertime, savory aromas emanated from the
kitchen, where the women scurried about, an innate sense of cho-
reography keeping them out of each other’s way as they sliced,
chopped, grated, sautéed, strained, boiled, mashed, and baked their
ways through a mountain of groceries. The men chatted in the
living room or sat outside in the patio, weather permitting, and
occasionally asked if they could do anything to help. Unless some-
thing needed to be acquired from the market the answer was usu-
ally no until time to carve the bird. Carving was the prerogative of
the senior male in the host family (grandfather, father, or uncle),
who could, of course, assign the task to someone else. But first the
turkey was placed on tantalizing display in the kitchen for at least
half an hour, “resting” to cool and be easier to carve and letting the
tural, and culinary issues and also what it reveals about what it means to be an
American.
To explore these broader issues I have divided this book into two parts. The
first is a history of the turkey, which has played an important role in North
America for thousands of years. The second offers a tantalizing selection of
more than a hundred historical recipes that feature turkey. The bibliography
provides a listing of selected books, agricultural bulletins, commercial booklets,
and cookbooks as well as organizations or programs that specialize in turkeys
or issues related to turkeys.
From a culinary standpoint, the common turkey (Meleagris gallopavo) was
the only important domesticated animal in the Americas in pre-Columbian
times. Wild turkeys ranged from Mexico to the east and west coasts of North
America. There are many unknowns about its early history. It isn’t known, for
instance, where the turkey originated, where or how it was domesticated or
why many species disappeared. Although wild turkeys were easy to capture,
various American Indian groups were widely divergent in their esteem for the
bird. Some ate turkey with great gusto, whereas others wouldn’t eat the birds
even when faced with starvation. The wild turkey was likely first domesticated
in the highlands of central Mexico and in the American Southwest, although
much about the domestication process is shrouded in mystery. The first chap-
ter relates how and why pre-Columbian groups responded so differently to the
turkey and discusses the wild turkey’s domestication.
Common wisdom has it that hundreds of years passed before New World
foods were integrated into European diets. This is not true of the turkey. The
Spanish encountered domesticated turkeys in Mexico by 1518, and within a
few years they had been introduced into the West Indies and Spain. Shortly
thereafter, turkeys were widely disseminated throughout Western Europe, the
Mediterranean, and Asia. The second chapter tells how and why the North
American turkey so quickly conquered the Old World.
Before 1541 the turkey arrived in England, where it was immediately adopted
by the upper classes. Domesticated birds were easy to raise, and turkey farms
proliferated throughout England. By 1577 English growers raised vast flocks of
turkeys, which were driven like cattle hundreds of miles to market. As turkeys
became plentiful they became affordable to the middle class and soon were the
least expensive bird on the English market. British cookbooks from the six-
teenth century onward featured recipes for preparing turkeys for the table. The
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