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(Ebook) The Turkey: An American Story by Andrew F. Smith ISBN 9780252031632, 0252031636 Complete Edition

The Turkey: An American Story by Andrew F. Smith explores the history and cultural significance of the turkey in America, detailing its journey from the wild to becoming a Thanksgiving staple. The book includes over a hundred historical and modern recipes, providing insights into culinary practices and the evolution of turkey preparation. Smith's work serves as both a historical reference and an engaging read, highlighting the turkey's role as a national icon.

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0% found this document useful (0 votes)
15 views161 pages

(Ebook) The Turkey: An American Story by Andrew F. Smith ISBN 9780252031632, 0252031636 Complete Edition

The Turkey: An American Story by Andrew F. Smith explores the history and cultural significance of the turkey in America, detailing its journey from the wild to becoming a Thanksgiving staple. The book includes over a hundred historical and modern recipes, providing insights into culinary practices and the evolution of turkey preparation. Smith's work serves as both a historical reference and an engaging read, highlighting the turkey's role as a national icon.

Uploaded by

shellytanja2265
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
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The
CULINARY HISTORY / COOKING

The
bird’s ascension to holiday mainstay—and the
techniques of stuffing—are also discussed.
SMITH

Turkey
“I’ve met a lot of turkeys in my life, but it wasn’t until I read

Turkey
As one of the easiest foods to cook, the turkey’s Andy Smith’s book that I finally began to understand them.”
culinary possibilities have been widely explored — BURT WOLF, public television journalist
if little noted. The second half of this book is
a collection of more than a hundred historical An
“Andy Smith tells us how Meleagris gallopavo—turkey to you—traveled from

THE TURKEY
and modern turkey recipes from across American
the New World to the Old after Columbus’s voyages of discovery, got its name,
An
America and Europe. With details on making
everything from sandwiches to salmagundi, was cooked in sixteenth and seventeenth century Europe, supplanted the Story
The Turkey provides a look back at the varied goose in England on festive tables, went wild in America until it disappeared,
ANDREW F. SMITH
appetites of our ancestors and gives seasoned
cooks an opportunity to reintroduce a familiar
and finally ended up on the American table especially at Thanksgiving.
Along the way, he demolishes a few popular assumptions, fills us in on the American
development of the modern popular breeds, and traces the progression of
Story F
food in previously forgotten ways. ondly regarded as the centerpiece of
preparing turkeys for sale from the ‘New York Style’ (defeathered but whole)
family Thanksgiving reunions, the turkey
to the more recent ‘ready to cook.’ We learn about the unexpected connection
is a cultural symbol as well as a multi-billion-
between turkeys and TV dinners, how we came to talk turkey, and why we
andrew f. smith is a freelance writer
make wishes on wishbones. Andy details the reestablishment of wild stocks ANDREW F. SMITH dollar industry. As a bird, dinner, commodity,
and national icon the turkey has become
and heritage breeds and then piles up recipes, mostly historic ones, for
who teaches culinary history and professional as American as the bald eagle, with which
cooking turkey. Here are answers to all the turkey questions you ever had,
it competed for supremacy on the nation’s
food writing at the New School in Manhattan. and some you didn’t.”
insignia.
He is the author of many books, including — SANDRA OLIVER, publisher/editor of Food History News
The Tomato in America and The Peanut, and is Food historian Andrew F. Smith’s sweeping
and multifaceted history of Meleagris gallopavo
coauthor of Real American Food
Food. He is also the “The Turkey pulls together an impressive array of historical separates fact from fiction, serving as both
editor-in-chief of the Oxford Encyclopedia on sources into an engaging, in-depth survey of the natural, a solid historical reference and a fascinating
Food and Drink in America and serves as chair culinary, and ‘social’ history of the turkey in the United States.” general read. With characteristic wit and
of the Culinary Trust, the philanthropic arm — KATHLEEN CURTIN, author of Giving Thanks: Thanksgiving insatiable curiosity, Smith presents the turkey
Recipes and History from Pilgrims to Pumpkin Pie in ten courses, beginning with the bird itself
of the International Association of Culinary
(actually, several species of it) in the wild. The
Professionals (IACP). He can be reached at his Turkey subsequently includes discussions of
Website, www.andrewfsmith.com practically every aspect of the icon, including
its arrival in early America, how it came
to be called “turkey,” its domestication and
A volume in The Food Series mating habits, the expansion of the bird’s
territory into Europe, conditions in modern
Jacket art from a postcard (ca. 1909) in the author’s turkey processing plants, and the surprising

ILLINOIS
collection. boom-or-bust cycles in turkey husbandry. The
isbn 0–252–03163–6
University of Illinois Press
Urbana and Chicago
www.press.uillinois.edu
,!7IA2F2-adbgdc!:t;K;k;K;k
The Turkey

00.FM.i-xxii_Smit.indd 1 8/1/06 3:44:19 PM


00.FM.i-xxii_Smit.indd 2 8/1/06 3:44:20 PM
The Food Series

General Editor
Andrew F. Smith, American Forum for Global Education

Editorial Board
Joseph Carlin, Food Heritage Press
Jessica Harris, Queens College
Karen Hess, Independent Writer
Bruce Kraig, Roosevelt University

A list of books in the series appears at the back of this book.

00.FM.i-xxii_Smit.indd 3 8/1/06 3:44:20 PM


00.FM.i-xxii_Smit.indd 4 8/1/06 3:44:27 PM
The
Turkey
An American Story
Andrew F. Smith

University of Illinois Press


Chicago and Urbana

00.FM.i-xxii_Smit.indd 5 8/1/06 3:44:28 PM


© 2006 by the Board of Trustees
of the University of Illinois
All rights reserved
Manufactured in the United States of America
c 5 4 3 2 1
∞ This book is printed on acid-free paper.

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data


Smith, Andrew F.
The turkey : an American story.
p. cm. — (The food series)
Includes bibliographical references and index.
isbn-13: 978-0-252-03163-2 (cloth : alk. paper)
isbn-10: 0-252-03163-6 (cloth : alk. paper)
1. Turkeys—United States—History. 2. Cookery (Turkey)
I. University of Illinois (Urbana-Champaign campus). Press.
sf507.t84   2006
641.3'65920973—dc22   2006022790

00.FM.i-xxii_Smit.indd 6 8/1/06 3:44:28 PM


This book is dedicated to the old turkeys I’ve known—
Frank Dantona, Fred Czarra, Midge Longley, Tom Collins,
Larry Condon, Bruce Kraig, Joe Carlin, David Finn, and
Alan Boorstein—and to the young chicks I look forward to
knowing better—Meghanne, Reilly, Ethan, and Owen.

00.FM.i-xxii_Smit.indd 7 8/1/06 3:44:28 PM


00.FM.i-xxii_Smit.indd 8 8/1/06 3:44:28 PM
Contents
List of Recipes / xi
Preface / xv
Acknowledgments / xxi

Part 1: The History of the Turkey / 1


1. The Prehistoric Turkey; or, How the Turkey
Conquered North America / 3
2. The Globe-trotting Turkey; or, How the Turkey
Conquered Europe / 14
3. The English Turkey; or, How the Turkey Cooked the
Christmas Goose / 26
4. The Call of the Wild Turkey; or, How the Wild
Turkey Came to a Fowl Ending / 39
5. The Well-dressed Turkey; or, How the Turkey
Trotted onto America’s Table / 54
6. Hale’s Turkey Tale; or, The Invention of
Turkey Day / 67
7. The Well-bred Turkey; or, How the Turkey
Lost Its Flavor / 83
8. The Industrialized Turkey; or, How the Turkey
Became a Profit Center / 93
9. The Social Turkey; or, How the Turkey Became
a Cultural Icon / 110
10. The American Turkey; or, How the Turkey Came
Home to Roost / 130

Part 2 : Historical Recipes / 137

Notes / 169
Selected Bibliography and Resources / 205
Index / 219
Illustrations follow page 66.

00.FM.i-xxii_Smit.indd 9 8/1/06 3:44:29 PM


00.FM.i-xxii_Smit.indd 10 8/1/06 3:44:29 PM
Historical Recipes
à la daube
Geese, Turkeys, and Capons à la Dobe / 141
boiled
Boiled Chickens and Turkies, the Dutch Way / 142
Boiled Turkey and Fowl / 142
boned
Boned Turkey / 142
braised
Braised Turkey / 143
croquettes
Turkey or Chicken Croquettes / 143
cutlets
Turkey Cutlets / 144
deviled
Deviled Turkey’s Legs, with Chow Chow / 144
eggs
Turkey’s Eggs Sauce / 144
Turkey, Geese, and Duck Eggs / 145
escalloped
Escalloped Turkey / 145
galatine
Galatine of Turkey / 145
giblets
Turky Giblets / 146
Turkey Giblets à la Bourgeoise / 146
gravy
Turkey Gravy / 147
gumbo
New Orleans Gumbo / 147

00.FM.i-xxii_Smit.indd 11 8/1/06 3:44:29 PM


hashed
Turkie with Raspis / 147
Turky, Hashed / 148
jelly
Turkey, &c. in Jelly / 148
Meat Jellies / 149
leftovers
Fricasseed Turkey (Cold Meat Cookery) / 150
miscellaneous
Balloons from Turkey’s Crops / 150
Chickens or Small Turkeys, with Jerusalem Artichokes / 150
Turkey in a Hurry / 151
Turkey Soused in Imitation of Sturgeon / 151
Turkey en Pain / 152
Turkey with Cèpes / 152
Turkey-Grenades à la Jules Verne / 153
Turkeys’ Livers en Brochette / 153
Blanquette of Turkey / 153
Boudins of Cold Chicken or Turkey / 154
Mock Turkey / 154
Vegetable Turkey / 155
pies
Goose, Turkey, or Bustard Pie / 155
Yorkshire Christmas-Pye / 155
potted
Potted Turkey / 156
ragoût
Ragoût of Turkey / 156
roast
To Roast a Turkey / 157
salads
Flesh Sallet of a Capon or Turkey / 158
Chicken [and Turkey] Salad / 158
Turkey Salad / 159

00.FM.i-xxii_Smit.indd 12 8/1/06 3:44:29 PM


salmagundi
To Make a Cold Hash, or Salad-Magundy / 159
sandwiches
Turkey Sandwich / 159
Club-house Sandwiches / 160
sauces
Oyster Sauce for a Boiled Turkey / 160
Celery-sauce / 161
sausage
Turkey Sausage / 161
scallop
Turkey Scallop / 162
soups
Turkey Soup / 163
Turkey Bone Soup / 163
steamed
Steamed Turkey / 163
stewed
To Stew a Turkey or Fowl / 164
Stewed Turkey—a French Receipt / 164
stuffing/dressing
Fowl or Tukey Roasted with Chestnuts / 165
Turkey Stuffed after the Hamburgh Way / 165
Liver and Truffle Stuffing for a Pig or Turkey / 165
Stuffings for Turkeys and Ducks / 166
Pickled Pork Stuffing for Turkeys / 166
Chestnut Stuffing for Turkey / 166
wild turkey
Hunter’s or Sportsman’s Soup / 167
Wild Turkey / 167
Wild Turkey à la Delagrange-stuffed / 168

00.FM.i-xxii_Smit.indd 13 8/1/06 3:44:30 PM


00.FM.i-xxii_Smit.indd 14 8/1/06 3:44:30 PM
M

Preface
y fondest childhood food memories relate to the traditional
Thanksgiving feast and its centerpiece, the turkey. In south-
ern California in the 1950s the celebration started at school with
Thanksgiving-related arts and crafts such as tracing our hands on
construction paper and then coloring in the gobbler’s features and
tail feathers. Frequently, there were dramatic reenactments of the
“First Thanksgiving,” with students playing Pilgrims and their
gracious friends the American Indians, who kindly supplied much
of the food. At lunch, the school cafeteria dished up tasteless tur-
key, nondescript gravy, overcooked vegetables, and pastel mashed
potatoes produced from powder, but we knew it was just a feeble
foretaste of what was to come on our family tables on Thanksgiv-
ing Day.
Thanksgiving was the one holiday when the extended family—
grandparents, aunts, uncles, cousins, and friends—came together.
The Thanksgiving meal, served in the dining room or if more
space were needed in a rearranged living room, was shared late in
the afternoon. Everyone brought something: potato salad, wine,
baked beans, cranberry sauce, and apple, mincemeat, or pumpkin
pie. The hosts (my parents alternated with grandparents and aunts)
provided the turkey, gravy, candied sweet potatoes (called yams in
our family), stuffing (usually called dressing), and anything that
had to be served hot. The turkey was always stuffed, and gravy was
made from the drippings.
Hours before dinnertime, savory aromas emanated from the
kitchen, where the women scurried about, an innate sense of cho-
reography keeping them out of each other’s way as they sliced,
chopped, grated, sautéed, strained, boiled, mashed, and baked their
ways through a mountain of groceries. The men chatted in the
living room or sat outside in the patio, weather permitting, and
occasionally asked if they could do anything to help. Unless some-
thing needed to be acquired from the market the answer was usu-
ally no until time to carve the bird. Carving was the prerogative of
the senior male in the host family (grandfather, father, or uncle),
who could, of course, assign the task to someone else. But first the
turkey was placed on tantalizing display in the kitchen for at least
half an hour, “resting” to cool and be easier to carve and letting the

00.FM.i-xxii_Smit.indd 15 8/1/06 3:44:30 PM


xvi . preface

juices redistribute themselves, ensuring more succulent white meat. Nobody


could resist at least one glance into the kitchen to admire the fragrant, crisp-
skinned holiday symbol soon to be gobbled up.
Children were seated at a separate table from the adults, far enough away to
form our own conversational group but near enough so they could chasten us
when our table manners, eating habits, language, or other unpleasantries made
it necessary. When we sat down, side dishes and condiments were already on the
table, and everyone gazed in awe as the enormous platter was reverently brought
forth from the kitchen, bearing steaming slices of light and dark meat flanked
by the wings and two giant drumsticks. This platter was strategically placed in
the middle of the adults’ table, but turkey was liberally dished out to children.
Once the turkey arrived the meal began with grace—usually a nondenomi-
national prayer—usually led by the youngest child. Even though Thanksgiving
was not a religious day, occasionally grace took the form of a litany of the things
for which we should be thankful. The final item on the list was the bountiful
meal set before us. With grace over, the food was passed around or served more
formally by one or two of the women. I always ended up with a drumstick after
most of the meat had been removed. It sounds somewhat pathetic, but I was
happy to pick up and gnaw what to me was a gargantuan bone; I also enjoyed
violating the usual taboo against eating with my hands. Of course, everyone
over-ate. It was an obligation to demonstrate how much you liked each dish.
The person who prepared each delicacy might be offended if it wasn’t enthusi-
astically received.
After the slowest eater had finished and the table was cleared, everyone
looked for some comfortable place to sit or, if possible, lie down. After a “decent
interval,” dessert—usually apple pie with vanilla ice cream or pumpkin pie
with real whipped cream piled high—was served. No matter how much they
had already eaten, everyone always found room for at least one slice of pie. Of
course, Thanksgiving didn’t end with dessert: leftovers were packed up and dis-
tributed among the families. For days afterward turkey turned up in casseroles,
sandwiches, salads, soups, and stews made from the scraps, bones, and carcass.
These memories were surely the beginning of my lifelong fascination
with the turkey, a fascination that persists decades after these extended fam-
ily Thanksgiving celebrations receded into memory. Although my interest in
turkey initially sprang from childhood memories, now, as a food historian, I
am concerned with what the turkey tells us about larger social, historical, cul-

00.FM.i-xxii_Smit.indd 16 8/1/06 3:44:30 PM


preface . xvii

tural, and culinary issues and also what it reveals about what it means to be an
American.
To explore these broader issues I have divided this book into two parts. The
first is a history of the turkey, which has played an important role in North
America for thousands of years. The second offers a tantalizing selection of
more than a hundred historical recipes that feature turkey. The bibliography
provides a listing of selected books, agricultural bulletins, commercial booklets,
and cookbooks as well as organizations or programs that specialize in turkeys
or issues related to turkeys.
From a culinary standpoint, the common turkey (Meleagris gallopavo) was
the only important domesticated animal in the Americas in pre-Columbian
times. Wild turkeys ranged from Mexico to the east and west coasts of North
America. There are many unknowns about its early history. It isn’t known, for
instance, where the turkey originated, where or how it was domesticated or
why many species disappeared. Although wild turkeys were easy to capture,
various American Indian groups were widely divergent in their esteem for the
bird. Some ate turkey with great gusto, whereas others wouldn’t eat the birds
even when faced with starvation. The wild turkey was likely first domesticated
in the highlands of central Mexico and in the American Southwest, although
much about the domestication process is shrouded in mystery. The first chap-
ter relates how and why pre-Columbian groups responded so differently to the
turkey and discusses the wild turkey’s domestication.
Common wisdom has it that hundreds of years passed before New World
foods were integrated into European diets. This is not true of the turkey. The
Spanish encountered domesticated turkeys in Mexico by 1518, and within a
few years they had been introduced into the West Indies and Spain. Shortly
thereafter, turkeys were widely disseminated throughout Western Europe, the
Mediterranean, and Asia. The second chapter tells how and why the North
American turkey so quickly conquered the Old World.
Before 1541 the turkey arrived in England, where it was immediately adopted
by the upper classes. Domesticated birds were easy to raise, and turkey farms
proliferated throughout England. By 1577 English growers raised vast flocks of
turkeys, which were driven like cattle hundreds of miles to market. As turkeys
became plentiful they became affordable to the middle class and soon were the
least expensive bird on the English market. British cookbooks from the six-
teenth century onward featured recipes for preparing turkeys for the table. The

00.FM.i-xxii_Smit.indd 17 8/1/06 3:44:30 PM


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