toilets

tools & Materials

Adjustable wrench
Bucket and sponge
Channel‑type pliers
Hacksaw
Penetrating oil
Pliers
Putty knife
Rubber gloves
Screwdriver
Supply tube
Teflon tape
Toilet seat bolts
Toilet seat
Towels
Utility knife
Wax ring without flange
Wax ring with flange

Replacing a toilet is simple, Gravity‑assisted toilets are now

and the newer models of designed with taller tanks and
water‑saving toilets have over‑ steeper bowl walls to increase the
come the performance problems effects of gravity.
of earlier models.

you Can rEPl aCE a Poorly functioning or and continue to beleaguer inferior models today. See
inefficient toilet with a high‑efficiency, high‑quality which toilets are available at your local home center
new toilet in just a single afternoon. All toilets made in your price range, then go online and see what other
since 1996 have been required to use 1.6 gallons or consumers’ experiences with those models have been.
less per flush, which has been a huge challenge for the New toilets often go through a “de‑bugging” stage
industry. Today, the most evolved water‑saving toilets when problems with leaks and malfunctioning parts
have wide passages behind the bowl and wide (3") are more common. Your criteria should include ease
flush valve openings—features that facilitate short, of installation, good flush performance, and reliability.
powerful flushes. This means fewer second flushes and With a little research, you should be able to purchase
fewer clogged toilets. These problems were common and install a high‑functioning, economical toilet that
complaints of the first generation of 1.6‑gallon toilets will serve you well for years to come.

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 rEMovInG a toIlE t

1 2 3

Coupling
nut

stop valve

1 Remove the old supply tube. First, turn off the water at the stop valve. Flush the toilet, holding the handle down
for a long flush, and sponge out the tank. Use a wet vac to clear any remaining water out of the tank and bowl.
Unthread the coupling nut for the water supply below the tank using channel‑type pliers.

2 Grip each tank bolt nut with a box wrench or pliers and loosen it as you stabilize each tank bolt from inside the tank
with a large slotted screwdriver. If the nuts are stuck, apply penetrating oil to the nut and let it sit before trying to
remove them again. You may also cut the tank bolts between the tank and the bowl with an open‑ended hacksaw.
Remove and discard the tank.

3 Remove the nuts that hold the bowl to the floor. First, pry off the bolt covers with a screwdriver. Use a socket
wrench, locking pliers, or your channel‑type pliers to loosen the nuts on the tank bolts. Apply penetrating oil and let
it sit if the nuts are stuck, then take them off. As a last resort, cut the bolts off with a hacksaw by first cutting down
through one side of the nut. Tilt the toilet bowl over and remove it.

Pr ying up Wax rings

Removing an old wax ring is one of the more disgusting
jobs you’ll encounter in the plumbing universe (the one
you see here is actually in relatively good condition).
Work a stiff putty knife underneath the plastic flange of
the ring (if you can) and start scraping. In many cases
the wax ring will come off in chunks. Discard each
chunk right away—they stick to everything. If you’re left
with a lot of residue, scrub with mineral spirits. Once
clean, stuff a rag in a plastic bag into the drain opening
to block sewer gas.

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 Ins tallInG a toIlE t

1 tip
If you will be replacing your toilet
flange or if your existing flange
can be unscrewed and moved,
orient the new flange so the slots
are parallel to the wall. This
allows you to insert bolts under
the slotted areas, which are much
stronger than the areas at the
ends of the curved grooves.

2 3 4 5 spud nut

spud
washer

1 Clean and inspect the old closet flange. Look for breaks or wear. Also inspect the flooring around the flange.
If either the flange or floor is worn or damaged, repair the damage. Use a rag and mineral spirits to completely
remove residue from the old wax ring. Place a rag‑in‑a‑bag into the opening to block odors.

2 Insert new tank bolts (don’t reuse old ones) into the openings in the closet flange. Make sure the heads of the bolts
are oriented to catch the maximum amount of flange material. To firmly hold the bolts upright, slide on the plastic
washers and press them down.

3 Remove the wax ring and apply it to the underside of the bowl, around the horn. Remove the protective covering.
Do not touch the wax ring. It is very sticky. Remove the rag‑in‑a‑bag. If you have an older 4‑inch flange, place the
ring on the flange rather than the toilet to make sure it is centered.

4 Lower the bowl onto the flange, taking care not to disturb the wax ring. The holes in the bowl base should align
perfectly with the tank bolts. Add a washer and tighten a nut on each bolt. Hand tighten each nut and then use
channel‑type pliers to further tighten the nuts. Alternate back and forth between nuts until the bowl is secure.
Do not overtighten.

5 Install the flush valve. Some tanks come with a flush valve and a fill valve preinstalled. For models that do not have
this, insert the flush valve through the tank opening and tighten a spud nut over the threaded end of the valve.
Place a foam spud washer on top of the spud nut.

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 6 7 8
Intermediate nut goes
between tank and bowl

Intermediate nut

threaded fill
valve shank

9 10 11

6 Adjust the fill valve as directed by the manufacturer to set the correct tank water level height and install the valve
inside the tank. Hand tighten the nylon lock nut that secures the valve to the tank (inset photo) and then tighten it
further with channel‑type pliers.

7 With the tank lying on its back, thread a rubber washer onto each tank bolt and insert it into the bolt holes from
inside the tank. Then, thread a brass washer and hex nut onto the tank bolts from below and tighten them to a
quarter turn past hand tight. Do not overtighten.

8 Position the tank on the bowl, spud washer on opening, bolts through bolt holes. Put a rubber washer, followed by
a brass washer and a wing nut, on each bolt and tighten these up evenly.

9 You may stabilize the bolts with a large slotted screwdriver from inside the tank, but tighten the nuts, not the bolts.
You may press down a little on a side, the front, or the rear of the tank to level it as you tighten the nuts by hand.
Do not overtighten and crack the tank. The tank should be level and stable when you’re done. Do not overtighten.

10 Hook up the water supply by connecting the supply tube to the threaded fill valve with the coupling nut provided.
Turn on the water and test for leaks. Do not overtighten.

11 Attach the toilet seat by threading the plastic or brass bolts provided with the seat through the openings on the
back of the rim and attaching nuts.

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 CoMMon toIlE t ProBlEMs

A clogged toilet is one of the most common plumbing

problems. If a toilet overflows or flushes sluggishly,
clear the clog with a plunger or closet auger. If
the problem persists, the clog may be in the main
waste‑vent stack.
Most other toilet problems are fixed easily with
minor adjustments that require no disassembly or
replacement parts. You can make these adjustments
in a few minutes, using simple tools.
If minor adjustments do not fix the problem,
further repairs will be needed. The parts of a standard
toilet are not difficult to take apart, and most repair
projects can be completed in less than an hour.
A recurring puddle of water on the floor around
a toilet may be caused by a crack in the toilet base
or in the tank. A damaged toilet should be replaced.
An older toilet may have a tank ball that settles onto
Installing a new toilet is an easy project that can be
the flush valve to stop the flow of water into the bowl. The
finished in three or four hours.
ball is attached to a lift wire, which is in turn attached to
A standard two‑piece toilet has an upper tank the lift rod. A ballcock valve is usually made of brass, with
that is bolted to a base. This type of toilet uses a rubber washers that can wear out. If the ballcock valve
simple gravity‑operated flush system and can easily malfunctions, you might be able to find old washers to
be repaired using the directions on the following repair it, but replacing both the ballcock and the tank ball
pages. Some one‑piece toilets use a complicated, with a float‑cup assembly and flapper is easier and makes
high‑pressure flush valve. for a more durable repair.

A modern float‑cup valve with flapper is inexpensive A pressure‑assist toilet has a large vessel that nearly
and made of plastic, but is more reliable than an old fills the tank. As water enters the vessel, pressure builds
ballcock valve and ball. up. When the toilet is flushed, this pressure helps push
water forcefully down into the bowl. As a result, a
pressure‑assist toilet provides strong flushing power
with minimal water consumption.

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 ProBlEMs & rEPaIrs

Problems Repairs

Toilet handle sticks or is hard 1. Adjust lift wires.

to push. 2. Clean and adjust handle.

Handle must be held down 1. Adjust handle.

for entire flush. 2. Shorten lift chain or wires.
3. Replace waterlogged flapper.

Handle is loose. 1. Adjust handle.

2. Reattach lift chain or lift wires to lever.

Toilet will not flush at all. 1. Make sure water is turned on.
2. Adjust lift chain or lift wires.

Toilet does not flush 1. Adjust lift chain.

completely. 2. Adjust water level in tank.
3. Increase pressure on pressure‑assisted toilet.

Toilet overflows or flushes 1. Clear clogged toilet.

sluggishly. 2. Clear clogged main waste‑vent stack.

Toilet runs continuously or 1. Adjust lift wires or lift chain.

there are phantom flushes. 2. Replace leaky float ball.
3. Adjust water level in tank.
4. Adjust and clean flush valve.
5. Replace flush valve.
6. Replace flapper.
7. Service pressure‑assist valve.

Water on floor around toilet. 1. Tighten tank bolts and water connections.
2. Insulate tank to prevent condensation.
3. Replace wax ring.
4. Replace cracked tank or bowl.

Toilet noisy when filling. 1. Open shutoff valve completely.

2. Replace ballcock and float valve.
3. Refill tube is disconnected.

Weak flush. 1. Clean clogged rim openings.

2. Replace old low‑flow toilet.

Toilet rocks. 1. Replace wax ring and bolts.

2. Replace toilet flange.

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 Making Minor adjustments
Many common toilet problems can be fixed by
tools & Materials
making minor adjustments to the handle and the
Adjustable wrench Hacksaw
attached lift chain (or lift wires). Needlenose pliers Spray Lubricant
If the handle sticks or is hard to push, remove the Screwdriver Small wire brush
tank cover and clean the handle‑mounting nut. Make Scissors Vinegar
sure the lift wires are straight.
If the toilet will not flush completely unless the
handle is held down, you may have to remove excess A continuously running toilet (page opposite)
slack in the lift chain. can be caused by bent lift wires, kinks in a lift chain,
If the toilet will not flush at all, the lift chain or lime buildup on the handle mounting nut. Clean
may be broken or may have to be reattached to the and adjust the handle and the lift wires or chain to
handle lever. fix the problem.

aDJus tInG a toIlE t HanDlE & lIF t CHaIn (or lIF t WIrEs)

1 2 3

Handle
lever lift wires

Handle mounting nut

lift chain

Guide arm

1 Clean and adjust handle‑mounting nut so handle operates smoothly. Mounting nut has reversed threads.
Loosen nut by turning clockwise; tighten by turning counterclockwise. Remove lime buildup with a brush
dipped in vinegar.

2 Adjust lift chain so it hangs straight from handle lever, with about 1⁄2" of slack. Remove excess slack in chain by
hooking the chain in a different hole in the handle lever or by removing links with needlenose pliers. A broken lift
chain must be replaced.

3 Adjust lift wires (found on older toilets without lift chains) so that wires are straight and operate smoothly when
handle is pushed. A sticky handle often can be fixed by straightening bent lift wires. You can also buy replacement
wires, or replace the whole assembly with a float cup.

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 QuICk FIXEs

Phantom flushes? Phantom Seat loose? Loose seats are almost Seat uncomfortably low? Instead
flushes are weak flushes that occur always the result of loose nut on of going to the trouble of raising the
without turning the handle. The the seat bolts. Tighten the nuts toilet or replacing it with a taller
flapper may not be completely with pliers. If the nut is corroded or model, you can simply replace the
sealing against the flush valve’s seat. stripped, replace the bolts and nuts seat with a thicker, extended seat.
Make sure the chain is not tangled, or replace the whole seat.
and that the flapper can go all the
way down. If that does not solve the
problem, shut off water and drain
the tank. If the problem persists, the
flapper may need to be replaced.

Bowl not refilling well? The rim Tank fills too slowly? The first Toilet running? Running toilets
holes may be clogged; many toilets place to check is the shutoff valve are usually caused by faulty
have small holes on the underside where the supply tube for the or misadjusted fill valves, but
of the bowl rim, through which toilet is connected. Make sure it is sometimes the toilet runs because
water squirts during a flush. If you fully open. If it is, you may need to the tank is leaking water into
notice that some of these holes are replace the shutoff—these fittings the bowl. To determine if this is
clogged, use a stiff‑bristled brush are fairly cheap and frequently fail happening with your toilet, add a
to clear out debris. You may need to open fully. few drops of food coloring to the
to first apply toilet bowl cleaner or tank water. If, after a while, the
mineral cleaner. water in the bowl becomes colored,
then you have a leak and probably
need to replace the rubber gasket at
the base of your flush valve.

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 reset tank Water level

Tank water flowing into the overflow pipe is the sound A ball float is connected to a float arm that’s attached
we hear when a toilet is running. Usually, this is caused to a plunger on the other end. As the tank fills, the float
by a minor misadjustment that fails to tell the water to rises and lifts one end of the float arm. At a certain point,
shut off when the toilet tank is full. The culprit is a float the float arm depresses the plunger and stops the flow of
ball or cup that is adjusted to set a water level in the tank water. By simply bending the float arm downward a bit,
that’s higher than the top of the overflow pipe, which you can cause it to depress the plunger at a lower tank
serves as a drain for excess tank water. The other photos water level, solving the problem.
on this page show how to fix the problem.

spring clip

A diaphragm fill valve usually is made of plastic and A float cup fill valve is made of plastic and is easy to
has a wide bonnet that contains a rubber diaphragm. adjust. Lower the water level by pinching the spring clip
Turn the adjustment screw clockwise to lower the water with fingers or pliers and moving the clip and cup down
level and counterclockwise to raise it. the pull rod and shank. Raise the water level by moving
the clip and cup upward.

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 What If the Flush s tops too soon?

Sometimes there is plenty of water in the tank, but not The handle lever should pull straight up on the flapper.
enough of it makes it to the bowl before the flush valve If it doesn’t, reposition the chain hook on the handle
shuts off the water from the tank. Modern toilets are lever. When the flapper is covering the opening, there
designed to leave some water in the tank, since the first should be just a little slack in the chain. If there is too
water that leaves the tank does so with the most force. much slack, shorten the chain and cut off excess with the
(It’s pressed out by the weight of the water on top.) To cutters on your pliers.
increase the duration of the flush, shorten the length of
the chain between the flapper and the float (yellow in the
model shown).

If the toilet is not completing flushes and the lever and Unless the handle parts are visibly broken, try cleaning
chain for the flapper or tank ball are correctly adjusted, them with an old toothbrush dipped in white vinegar.
the problem could be that the handle mechanism needs Replace the handle and test the action. If it sticks or is
cleaning or replacement. Remove the chain/linkage hard to operate, replace it. Most replacement handles
from the handle lever. Remove the nut on the backside come with detailed instructions that tell you how to
of the handle with an adjustable wrench. It unthreads install and adjust them.
clockwise (the reverse of standard nuts). Remove the old
handle from the tank.

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 Repl acing a Fill ValVe

1 2

Mounting unit
for fill valve

coupling nut
for supply tube

3 4
critical
level mark

1 Toilet fill valves wear out eventually. They can be repaired, but it’s easier and a better fix to just replace them. Before
removing the old fill valve, shut off the water supply at the fixture stop valve located on the tube that supplies water
to the tank. Flush the toilet and sponge out the remaining water. Loosen the nut and disconnect the supply tube,
then loosen and remove the mounting nut.

2 If the fill valve spins while you turn the mounting nut, you may need to hold it still with locking pliers. Lift out the
fill valve. In the case of an old ballcock valve, the float ball will likely come out as well. When replacing an old valve
like this, you will likely also need to replace the flush valve (see pages 68-69).

3 The new fill valve must be installed so the critical level (“CL”) mark is at least 1" above the overflow pipe (see inset).
Slip the shank washer on the threaded shank of the new fill valve and place the valve in the hole so the washer is flat
on the tank bottom. Compare the locations of the “CL” mark and the overflow pipe.

4 Adjust the height of the fill valve shank so the “CL” line and overflow pipe will be correctly related. Different
products are adjusted in different ways—the fill valve shown here telescopes when it’s twisted.

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 5 6

Refill tube

Overflow pipe
Threaded
valve stem

7 Tip
Newer diaphragm valves cost a bit more than float
cups, but they boast quieter water flow. Install
one the same way you would a float cup.

5 Slip the valve’s threaded end down through the tank. Push down on its shank (not the top) while tightening the
locknut (inset). Hand tighten, then use a wrench to make an extra ¼ turn. Hook up the water supply tube, and
tighten in the same way.

6 If the overflow pipe has a cap, remove it. Attach one end of the refill tube from the new valve to the plastic
angle adapter and the other end to the refill nipple near the top of the valve. Attach the angle adapter to the
overflow pipe. Cut off excess tubing with scissors to prevent kinking. Warning: Don’t insert the refill tube into
the overflow pipe. The outlet of the refill tube needs to be above the top of the pipe for it to work properly.

7 Turn the water on fully. Slightly tighten any fitting that drips water. Adjust the water level in the tank by
squeezing the spring clip on the float cup with needlenose pliers and moving the cup up or down on the link bar.
Test the flush.

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 Repl acing a Flush ValVe

1 2

3 4
spud nut

spud wrench

1 Before removing the old flush valve, shut off the water supply at the fixture stop valve located on the tube that
supplies water to the tank. Flush the toilet and sponge out the remaining water. To make this repair you’ll need to
remove the tank from the bowl. Start by unscrewing the water supply coupling nut from the bottom of the tank.

2 Unscrew the bolts holding the toilet tank to the bowl by loosening the nuts from below. If you are having difficulty
unscrewing the tank bolts and nuts because they are fused together by rust or corrosion, apply penetrating oil or
spray lubricant to the threads, give it a few minutes to penetrate, and then try again. If that fails, slip an open-ended
hacksaw (or plain hacksaw blade) between the tank and bowl and saw through the bolt (inset photo).

3 Unhook the chain from the handle lever arm. Remove the tank and carefully place it upside-down on an old towel.
Remove the spud washer and spud nut from the base of the flush valve using a spud wrench or large channel-type
pliers. Remove the old flush valve.

4 Place the new flush valve in the valve hole and check to see if the top of the overflow pipe is at least 1" below the
critical level and the tank opening where the handle is installed. If the pipe is too tall, cut it to length with a
hacksaw.

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 5 6 intermediate nut goes
between tank and bowl
spud nut

spud washer

7 8
Refill tube

Overflow pipe
chain clip

intermediate nut

5 Position the flush valve flapper below the handle lever arm and secure it to the tank from beneath with the spud
nut. Tighten the nut one-half turn past hand tight with a spud wrench or large channel-type pliers. Overtightening
may cause the tank to break. Put the new spud washer over the spud nut, small side down.

6 With the tank lying on its back, thread a rubber washer onto each tank bolt and insert it into the bolt holes from
inside the tank. Then, thread a brass washer and hex nut onto the tank bolts from below and tighten them to a
quarter turn past hand tight. Do not overtighten.

7 With the hex nuts tightened against the tank bottom, carefully lower the tank over the bowl and set it down so the
spud washer seats neatly over the water inlet in the bowl and the tank bolts fit through the holes in the bowl flange.
Secure the tank to the bowl with a rubber washer, brass washer, and nut or wing nut at each bolt end. Press the tank
to level as you hand-tighten the nuts. Hook up the water supply at the fill valve inlet.

8 Connect the chain clip to the handle lever arm and adjust the number of links to allow for a little slack in the chain
when the flapper is closed. Leave a little tail on the chain for adjusting, cutting off remaining excess. Attach the
refill tube to the top of the overflow pipe the same way it had been attached to the previous refill pipe. Turn on the
water supply at the stop valve and test the flush. (Some flush valve flappers are adjustable.)

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 plunging a clOgged TOile T

1 2 3

1 Plunging is the easiest way to remove “natural” blockages. Take time to lay towels around the base of the toilet and
remove other objects to a safe, dry location, since plunging may result in splashing. Often, allowing a very full toilet
to sit for twenty or thirty minutes will permit some of the water to drain to a less precarious level.

2 There should be enough water in the bowl to completely cover the plunger. Fold out the skirt from inside the
plunger to form a better seal with the opening at the base of the bowl. Pump the plunger vigorously half-a-dozen
times, take a rest, and then repeat. Try this for four to five cycles.

3 If you force enough water out of the bowl that you are unable to create suction with the plunger, put a controlled
amount of water in the bowl by lifting up on the flush valve in the tank. Resume plunging. When you think the
drain is clear, you can try a controlled flush, with your hand ready to close the flush valve should the water threaten
to spill out of the bowl. Once the blockage has cleared, dump a five-gallon pail of water into the toilet to blast away
any residual debris.

Force cups
A flanged plunger (force cup) fits into the mouth of the
toilet trap and creates a tight seal so you can build up
enough pressure in front of the plunger to dislodge the
blockage and send it on its way.

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 cle aRing clOgs wiTh a clOse T augeR

1 2 3
protective
rubber boot

1 Place the business end of the auger firmly in the bottom of the toilet bowl with the auger tip fully withdrawn. A
rubber sleeve will protect the porcelain at the bottom bend of the auger. The tip will be facing back and up, which is
the direction the toilet trap takes.

2 Rotate the handle on the auger housing clockwise as you push down on the rod, advancing the rotating auger tip up
into the back part of the trap. You may work the cable backward and forward as needed, but keep the rubber boot
of the auger firmly in place in the bowl. When you feel resistance, indicating you‘ve snagged the object, continue
rotating the auger counterclockwise as you withdraw the cable and the object.

3 Fully retract the auger until you have recovered the object. This can be frustrating at times, but it is still a much
easier task than the alternative—to remove the toilet and go fishing.

closet augers
A closet auger is a semirigid cable housed in a tube.
The tube has a bend at the end so it can be snaked
through a toilet trap (without scratching it) to
snag blockages.

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