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14 views92 pages

Frommer S Paris 2007 Frommer S Complete Darwin Porter Full Digital Chapters

The document provides information about the 'Frommer's Paris 2007' travel guide by Darwin Porter, highlighting its availability in various digital formats and positive reviews from critics. It includes details on the contents of the guide, such as itineraries, dining, accommodations, and attractions in Paris. The document also mentions other related travel guides available on the same platform.

Uploaded by

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Paris
2007
by Darwin Porter & Danforth Prince

Here’s what the critics say about Frommer’s:


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—Knight Ridder Newspapers
Paris
2007
by Darwin Porter & Danforth Prince

Here’s what the critics say about Frommer’s:


“Amazingly easy to use. Very portable, very complete.”
—Booklist

“Detailed, accurate, and easy-to-read information for all price ranges.”


—Glamour Magazine

“Hotel information is close to encyclopedic.”


—Des Moines Sunday Register

“Frommer’s Guides have a way of giving you a real feel for a place.”
—Knight Ridder Newspapers
Published by:

Wiley Publishing, Inc.


111 River St.
Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774
Copyright © 2006 Wiley Publishing, Inc., Hoboken, New Jersey. All rights reserved. No
part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in
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of Arthur Frommer. Used under license. All other trademarks are the property of their
respective owners. Wiley Publishing, Inc. is not associated with any product or vendor
mentioned in this book.
ISBN-13: 978-0-470-00747-1
ISBN-10: 0-470-00747-8
Editor: Shelley Bance
Production Editor: M. Faunette Johnston
Cartographer: Tim Lohnes
Photo Editor: Richard Fox
Production by Wiley Indianapolis Composition Services
Front cover photo: Montmartre and Sacre Coeur at night, café in foreground
Back cover photo: Louvre and Pyramid at night
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5 4 3 2 1
Contents
List of Maps vi

What’s New in Paris 1

1 The Best of Paris 3


1 The Most Unforgettable Travel 5 The Best Things to Do for Free
Experiences . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3 (or Almost) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9
2 The Best Splurge Hotels . . . . . . . . . . .5 6 The Best Museums . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11
3 The Best Moderately Priced Hotels . . .6 7 The Best Neighborhoods for
4 The Most Unforgettable Dining Getting Lost . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12
Experiences . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7

2 A Traveler’s Guide to Paris’s Art & Architecture 15


1 Art 101 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15 2 Architecture 101 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19

3 Planning Your Trip to Paris 27


1 Visitor Information . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27 Healthy Travels to You . . . . . . . . . . .39
2 Entry Requirements . . . . . . . . . . . . .27 7 Specialized Travel Resources . . . . . . .40
3 Money . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29 8 Planning Your Trip Online . . . . . . . . .44
What Things Cost in Paris . . . . . . . .30 Online Traveler’s Toolbox . . . . . . . . .46
4 When to Go . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32 9 Getting There . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .46
Paris Calendar of Events . . . . . . . . . .32 10 Package Tours for the Independent
5 Travel Insurance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .37 Traveler . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .52
6 Health & Safety . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .37 11 Escorted General Interest Tours . . . . .52
Avoiding “Economy Class 12 Recommended Reading . . . . . . . . . .53
Syndrome” . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38

4 Suggested Paris Itineraries 55


1 The Best of Paris in 1 Day . . . . . . . . .55 3 The Best of Paris in 3 Days . . . . . . . .60
2 The Best of Paris in 2 Days . . . . . . . .58
iv CONTENTS

5 Getting to Know the City of Light 64


1 Essentials . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .64 Discount Transit Passes . . . . . . . . . .72
Arrondissements in Brief . . . . . . . . . .66 Fast Facts: Paris . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .74
2 Getting Around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .71

6 Where to Stay 81
1 Best Hotel Bets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .82 3 On the Left Bank . . . . . . . . . . . . . .106
A Room in Paris . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .83 4 Near the Airports . . . . . . . . . . . . . .122
2 On the Right Bank . . . . . . . . . . . . . .84 Hôtel Moderne Saint-Germain,
Family-Friendly Hotels . . . . . . . . . . . .93 Then . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .123

7 Where to Dine 124


1 Best Dining Bets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .124 Family-Friendly Restaurants . . . . . .158
2 Food for Thought . . . . . . . . . . . . . .125 5 On the Left Bank . . . . . . . . . . . . . .161
Dining Savoir-Faire . . . . . . . . . . . . .127 In Pursuit of the Perfect
3 Restaurants by Cuisine . . . . . . . . . .128 Parisian Pastry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .176
4 On the Right Bank . . . . . . . . . . . . .131 6 The Top Cafes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .178
Le Grand Fromage . . . . . . . . . . . . .137 Café Culture, Then & Now . . . . . . .182
A Parisian Piquenique . . . . . . . . . . .144

8 Exploring Paris 183

1 Attractions by Arrondissement . . . .183 7 Literary Landmarks . . . . . . . . . . . . .222


2 The Top Attractions: From the 8 Parks & Gardens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .223
Arc de Triomphe to the Tour Eiffel . . .185 9 Cemeteries . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .225
Some Louvre Tips . . . . . . . . . . . . . .201 10 Paris Underground . . . . . . . . . . . . .228
Time Out at the Tower . . . . . . . . . .204 11 A Day at the Races . . . . . . . . . . . . .229
3 The Major Museums . . . . . . . . . . . .204 12 Neighborhood Highlights . . . . . . . .229
4 Specialty Museums . . . . . . . . . . . . .209 13 Especially for Kids . . . . . . . . . . . . . .234
5 The Important Churches . . . . . . . . .214 14 Organized Tours . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .236
6 Architectural & Historic
Highlights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .218

9 Strolling Around Paris 239


Walking Tour 1: Montmartre . . . . . .239 Walking Tour 3: The Mariais . . . . . .245
Walking Tour 2: The Latin Quarter . . .242
CONTENTS v

10 Shopping in Paris 251


1 The Shopping Scene . . . . . . . . . . . .251 The City’s Most Historic
2 Shopping A to Z . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .254 Shopping Arcade . . . . . . . . . . . . . .267
Food Markets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .264 The Scent of a Parisian . . . . . . . . . .270
Au Printemps, Then . . . . . . . . . . . .274

11 Paris After Dark 275


1 The Performing Arts . . . . . . . . . . . .275 3 Bars, Pubs & Clubs . . . . . . . . . . . . .287
2 The Club & Music Scene . . . . . . . . .278 4 Gay & Lesbian Bars & Clubs . . . . . .291
More After-Dark Diversions . . . . . .284 5 Literary Haunts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .293

12 Side Trips from Paris 294


1 Versailles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .294 3 Giverny . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .305
A Return to Faded Glory . . . . . . . . .298 4 Disneyland Paris . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .307
2 The Cathedral at Chartres . . . . . . . .301 5 Fontainebleau . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .312

Appendix A: Paris History 101 316


1 A Concise History of the Dateline . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .317
City of Light . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .316

Appendix B: Glossary of Useful Terms 326


1 Useful French Words & Phrases . . . .326 2 Food & Menu Terms . . . . . . . . . . . .330

Index 333
General Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .333 Restaurant Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .339
Accommodations Index . . . . . . . . . . . . .339
List of Maps

The Best of Paris in 1 Day 57 Attractions in the 5th–6th


The Best of Paris in 2 Days 59 Arrondissements 190
The Best of Paris in 3 Days 61 Attractions in the 7th
Arrondissement 191
Where to Stay on the Right Bank
(1–4, 9–12 & 18e) 86 Attractions in the 8th
Arrondissement 192
Where to Stay on the Right Bank
(8 & 16–17e) 99 Attractions in the 16th
Arrondissement 193
Where to Stay on the Left Bank
(5–6 & 13–14e) 108 Attractions in the 18th
Arrondissement 194
Where to Stay on the Left Bank
(7e) 119 Notre-Dame de Paris 196
Where to Dine on the Right Bank The Louvre 200
(1–4, 9–12 & 18–19e) 132 Père-Lachaise Cemetery 227
Where to Dine on the Right Bank Walking Tour 1: Montmartre 241
(8 & 16–17e) 151 Walking Tour 2: The Latin
Where to Dine on the Left Bank Quarter 243
(5–6 & 13–14e) 162 Walking Tour 3: The Marais 247
Where to Dine on the Left Bank Ile de France 295
(7 & 15e) 173
Versailles 297
Top Paris Attractions 186
Notre-Dame de Chartres 303
Attractions in the 1st
Arrondissement 188 Fontainebleau 313
Attractions in the 3rd–4th
Arrondissements 189
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An Invitation to the Reader
In researching this book, we discovered many wonderful places—hotels, restaurants, shops, and
more. We’re sure you’ll find others. Please tell us about them, so we can share the information
with your fellow travelers in upcoming editions. If you were disappointed with a recommenda-
tion, we’d love to know that, too. Please write to:
Frommer’s Paris 2007
Wiley Publishing, Inc. • 111 River St. • Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774

An Additional Note
Please be advised that travel information is subject to change at any time—and this is especially
true of prices. We therefore suggest that you write or call ahead for confirmation when making
your travel plans. The authors, editors, and publisher cannot be held responsible for the experi-
ences of readers while traveling. Your safety is important to us, however, so we encourage you to
stay alert and be aware of your surroundings. Keep a close eye on cameras, purses, and wallets,
all favorite targets of thieves and pickpockets.

About the Authors


As a team of veteran travel writers, Darwin Porter and Danforth Prince have produced numer-
ous titles for Frommer’s, including best-selling guides to Italy, France, the Caribbean, England,
and Germany. Porter, a former bureau chief of the Miami Herald, is also a Hollywood biogra-
pher. His most recent releases are Howard Hughes: Hell’s Angel and Brando Unzipped, the latter
an account of the notorious private life of Marlon Brando. Prince was formerly employed by the
Paris bureau of the New York Times and is today the president of Blood Moon Productions and
other media-related firms.

Other Great Guides for Your Trip:


Frommer’s France
Frommer’s Irreverant Guide to Paris
Frommer’s Portable Paris
Frommer’s Paris Day by Day
Frommer’s Memorable Walks in Paris
Paris For Dummies
Suzy Gershman’s Born to Shop Paris
The Unofficial Guide to Disneyland ® Paris
The Unofficial Guide to Paris
Frommer’s Star Ratings, Icons & Abbreviations
Every hotel, restaurant, and attraction listing in this guide has been ranked for quality, value,
service, amenities, and special features using a star-rating system. In country, state, and regional
guides, we also rate towns and regions to help you narrow down your choices and budget your
time accordingly. Hotels and restaurants are rated on a scale of zero (recommended) to three
stars (exceptional). Attractions, shopping, nightlife, towns, and regions are rated according to
the following scale: zero stars (recommended), one star (highly recommended), two stars (very
highly recommended), and three stars (must-see).
In addition to the star-rating system, we also use eight feature icons that point you to the
great deals, in-the-know advice, and unique experiences that separate travelers from tourists.
Throughout the book, look for:

Finds Special finds—those places only insiders know about

Fun Fact Fun facts—details that make travelers more informed and their trips more fun

Kids Best bets for kids and advice for the whole family

Moments Special moments—those experiences that memories are made of

Overrated Places or experiences not worth your time or money

A look back at the early days of Frommer’s, highlighting timeless bits of travel
Then& Now
wisdom as well as hotels and restaurants that have stood the test of time
Tips Insider tips—great ways to save time and money

Value Great values—where to get the best deals

The following abbreviations are used for credit cards:


AE American Express DISC Discover V Visa
DC Diners Club MC MasterCard

Frommers.com
Now that you have the guidebook to a great trip, visit our website at www.frommers.com for
travel information on more than 3,000 destinations. With features updated regularly, we give
you instant access to the most current trip-planning information available. At Frommers.com,
you’ll also find the best prices on airfares, accommodations, and car rentals—and you can even
book travel online through our travel booking partners. At Frommers.com, you’ll also find the
following:
• Online updates to our most popular guidebooks
• Vacation sweepstakes and contest giveaways
• Newsletter highlighting the hottest travel trends
• Online travel message boards with featured travel discussions
What’s New in Paris
Ieconomy,
n a jittery world and with an uncertain
Paris remains one of the most
DINING The new power lunch venue
of the hour is Senso, in the revamped
visited places on the planet. Travelers, of Hôtel La Trémoille, 14 rue de la Trémoille,
course, come to revisit Paris’s glorious 8e (& 01-56-52-14-14). It serves some of
past, as reflected in its art and architec- the city’s most delectable food on exquis-
ture, but they are also intrigued by the itely beautiful plates, with such exotic treats
City of Light’s cutting-edge style, cuisine, as squid stuffed with chorizo or sole with
and fashion. Here are some of the latest fresh ginger and spinach. The contempo-
developments in an ever-changing world rary French cuisine also includes stuffed
metropolis: tomatoes with beef and fresh herbs and—
GETTING TO KNOW Finding a an unusual combination—chateaubriand
babysitter in Paris just got a lot easier served with Provençal monkfish soup.
with the opening of Babychou Services, Designed by the famous Sir Terrence Con-
31 rue du Moulin de la Pointe, 13e ran, the restaurant is ultramodern in its
(& 01-43-13-33-23). Babysitters are appointments. The fashionably cool bar
English speaking and reliable and allow area is decorated with ivory leather sofas
you to go out at night without worry. and subtle lighting that changes from blue
Paris is great for kids during the day, but to red throughout the day.
leans more to adult pleasures in the The famous Taittinger family has
evening. opened its Baccarat-crystal-laden Cristal
Room, 11 place des Etats-Unis, 16e
PARIS ACCOMMODATIONS Deep (& 01-40-22-11-10), in the former
in the heart of the Left Bank, Relais town house of the art patroness Marie-
St-Germain, 9 carrefour de l’Odéon, 6e Laure de Noailles—famous benefactor of
(& 01-43-29-12-05), is created from Man Ray and Salvador Dalí. Philippe
four side-by-side town houses from the Starck designed the stunning minimalist
17th century. Even though it evokes decor, with a bow to the surrealists, and
Paris’s past, it’s as modern as tomorrow the chef is the brilliant Thierry Burlot.
and awash in creature comforts. It has a He is totally original, creating his own
cozy intimacy not found in the city’s distinctive take on such classics as oyster
larger, more impersonal hotels. ravioli and caramel soufflé.
Only 2 blocks from the Champs- Publicis Drugstore, 133 av. des
Elysées, Hôtel Le A, 4 rue d’Artois, 8e Champs-Elysées, 8e (& 01-44-43-
(& 01-42-56-99-99), is a former town 77-64), was a Paris hot spot when it
house that has been elegantly converted opened in 1958, but it grew stale over the
to a boutique hotel of charm and grace. decades. Now it’s been completely over-
With its ultracontemporary design, it hauled, and even France’s most famous
draws fashionistas to a bastion of comfort chef, Alain Ducasse, has been hired as a
in the chic 8e Arrondissement.
2 W H AT ’ S N E W

consultant for both of its restaurants. The most fabled department stores, a tradition
new complex also has two cinemas, a since 1870, closed and is under restora-
wine shop, a bookstore, an international tion. La Samaritaine may have faded into
newsstand, a Cuban cigar shop, and, of history. The new owner has not made his
course, a pharmacy (as befits its name). intentions clear about the future of
Le Drugstore still remains the most reli- this Parisian landmark.
able place to find a hamburger deluxe with One of the hottest new galleries to
foie gras after midnight. open in Paris is La Maison Rouge, 10 bd.
Restaurant de l’Astor, in the Hôtel de la Bastille, 12e (& 01-40-01-08-81),
Saint-Honoré, 11 rue d’Astorg, 8e which features a constantly changing dis-
(& 01-53-05-05-05), is the setting for play of the work of Paris’s most avant-
the cuisine of superchef Frederick garde artists.
Mechiche. A short distance from the AFTER DARK Once a fixture on the
Elysée Palace, diners relish his take on nightlife scene in Paris, Caveau des
modern French cuisine and it’s one of the Oubliettes, 52 rue Galande, 5e (& 01-
most sublime in the capital. Since the gov- 46-34-23-09), eventually became a
ernment ministries are nearby, you will tourist trap. Today, it’s so old that it’s new
often dine shoulder to shoulder with the again, having made a comeback in its set-
men and women who preside over France ting of dungeons from a 12th-century
today. prison. In its transformation, the club
ATTRACTIONS Some of the most attracts a hip, young crowd to the Left
popular tours in Paris are not of the Eiffel Bank. Patrons listen to a nightly jam ses-
Tower or the Musée d’Orsay, but of sights sion, perhaps Latin jazz or rock.
mentioned in Dan Brown’s bestseller, The VERSAILLES ATTRACTIONS At
Da Vinci Code. The mega-blockbuster the Château de Versailles (& 01-30-
kicks off with a murder in the Louvre and 83-78-00), sections of this mammoth
goes on from there. For the best of palace that have been off-limits are now
the tours mentioned in the novel, refer to open to the public for the first time. The
p. 238. most important new room is the vast Bat-
SHOPPING Shoppers going to Paris to tle Gallery, the longest hall at Versailles. It
explore the merchandise at La Samari- displays monumental paintings depicting
taine, 19 rue de la Monnaie, will be in for scenes from some of the country’s greatest
a disappointment. One of the world’s battles.
1
The Best of Paris
D iscovering the City of Light and making it your own has always been the most
compelling reason to visit Paris. If you’re a first-timer, everything, of course, will be
new to you. If you’ve been away for awhile, expect changes: Taxi drivers may no longer
correct your fractured French, but address you in English—tantamount to a revolu-
tion. More Parisians have a rudimentary knowledge of the language, and France, at
least at first glance, seems less xenophobic than in past years. Paris, aware of its role
within a united Europe, is an international city. Parisians are attracted to foreign
music, videos, and films, especially those from America, even though most French
people violently disagree with the political dictates emerging from George Bush’s
Washington.
Though Paris is in flux culturally and socially, it lures travelers for the same reasons
as always. You’ll still find classic sights like the Tour Eiffel, Notre-Dame, the Arc de
Triomphe, Sacré-Coeur, and all those atmospheric cafes, as well as daringly futuristic
projects like the Grande Arche de La Défense, the Cité des Sciences et de l’Industrie,
the Cité de la Musique, and the Bibliothèque François-Mitterrand. Don’t forget the
parks, gardens, and squares; the Champs-Elysées and other grand boulevards; and the
river Seine and its quays. Paris’s beauty is still overwhelming, especially at night, when
it truly is the City of Light.

1 The Most Unforgettable Travel Experiences


• Whiling Away an Afternoon in a purée of sweetened chestnuts and
Parisian Cafe: The cafes are where meringue. The grandest Parisian tea
passionate meetings of writers, artists, salon is Angélina, 226 rue de Rivoli,
philosophers, thinkers, and revolu- 1er (& 01-42-60-82-00; Métro: Tui-
tionaries once took place—and per- leries or Concorde; p. 138).
haps still do. Parisians stop by their • Strolling Along the Seine: Such
favorite cafes to meet lovers and painters as Sisley, Turner, and Monet
friends, to make new ones, or to sit in have fallen under the Seine’s spell. On
solitude with a newspaper or book. its banks, lovers still walk hand in
For our recommendations, see sec- hand, anglers cast their lines, and
tion 6, “The Top Cafes,” in chapter bouquinistes (secondhand-book deal-
7, “Where to Dine.” ers) peddle their mix of postcards,
• Taking Afternoon Tea à la Française: 100-year-old pornography, and tat-
Drinking tea in London has its charm, tered histories of Indochina. For
but the Parisian salon de thé is unique. more details on the sights and
Skip the cucumber-and-watercress moments of Paris, see chapter 8,
sandwiches and delve into a luscious “Exploring Paris.”
dessert like the Mont Blanc, a creamy
4 C H A P T E R 1 . T H E B E S T O F PA R I S

• Spending a Day at the Races: Paris St-Honoré; today, the quarter is


boasts eight tracks for horse racing. home to stores catering to the rich,
The most famous and the classiest is particularly on rue du Faubourg
Hippodrome de Longchamp, in the St-Honoré and avenue Montaigne.
Bois de Boulogne, the site of the Prix Even if you don’t buy anything, it’s
de l’Arc de Triomphe and Grand Prix great to window-shop big names like
(p. 229). These and other top races Hermès, Dior, Laroche, Courrèges,
are major social events, so you’ll have Cardin, and Saint Laurent. If you
to dress up (buy your outfit on rue du want to browse in the stores, be sure
Faubourg St-Honoré). Take the to dress the part. See chapter 10,
Métro to Porte d’Auteuil and then a “Shopping,” for the lowdown on
bus from there to the track. The rac- these boutiques.
ing newspaper Paris Turf and weekly • Exploring Ile de la Cité’s Flower
entertainment magazines have details Market: A fine finish to any day
about race times. (Mon–Sat) spent meandering along
• Calling on the Dead: You don’t have the Seine is a stroll through the
to be a ghoul to be thrilled by a visit to Marché aux Fleurs, place Louis-
Europe’s most famous cemetery, Père- Lépine (p. 268). You can buy rare
Lachaise (p. 226). You can pay your flowers, the gems of the French
respects to the earthly remains of Riviera—bouquets that have inspired
Gertrude Stein and her longtime com- artists throughout the centuries. Even
panion, Alice B. Toklas; Oscar Wilde; the most basic hotel room will feel
Yves Montand and Simone Signoret; like a luxury suite once you fill it with
Edith Piaf; Isadora Duncan; Abélard bunches of carnations, lavender,
and Héloïse; Frédéric Chopin; Marcel roses, and tulips. On Sundays, the
Proust; Eugène Delacroix; Jim Morri- area is transformed into the Marché
son; and others. The tomb designs are aux Oiseaux, where you can admire
intriguing and often eerie. Laid out in rare birds from around the world.
1803 on a hill in Ménilmontant, the • Going Gourmet at Fauchon: An
cemetery offers surprises with its exotic world of food, Fauchon
bizarre monuments, unexpected (p. 177) offers more than 20,000
views, and ornate sculpture. products from around the globe.
• Checking Out the Marchés: A daily Everything you never knew you were
Parisian ritual is ambling through one missing is in aisle after aisle of coffees,
of the open-air markets to buy fresh spices, pastries, fruits, vegetables,
food—perhaps a properly creamy rare Armagnacs, and much more.
Camembert or a pumpkin-gold can- Take your pick: Tonganese mangoes,
taloupe—to be eaten before sun- Scottish smoked salmon, preserved
down. Our favorite market is on rue cocks’ combs, Romanian rose-petal
Montorgueil, beginning at rue Ram- jelly, blue-red Indian pomegranates,
buteau, 1er (Métro: Les Halles). Dur- golden Tunisian dates, larks stuffed
ing mornings at this grubby little with foie gras, dark morels from
cluster of food stalls, we’ve spotted France’s rich soil, Finnish reindeer’s
some of France’s finest chefs stocking tongue, century-old eggs from China,
up for the day. For more details, see and a creole punch from Martinique
“Food Markets” in chapter 10. reputed to be the best anywhere.
• Window-Shopping in the Faubourg • Attending a Ballet or an Opera: In
St-Honoré: In the 1700s, the wealth- 1989, the Opéra Bastille (p. 277)
iest Parisians resided in the Faubourg was inaugurated to compete with the
T H E B E S T S P L U R G E H OT E L S 5

grande dame of the music scene, the Paris might have arrived with a copy
Opéra Garnier (p. 277), which then of Hemingway’s A Moveable Feast
was used solely for dance and soon and, taking the author’s endorsement
closed for renovations. The Opéra to heart, headed for Harry’s Bar at
Garnier reopened a few years ago, “Sank roo doe Noo.” Harry’s is still
and opera has joined dance in the around but now draws an older, more
rococo splendor created by Charles conservative clientele. Today’s chic
Garnier, beneath a controversial ceil- younger expats head for Willi’s Wine
ing by Chagall. The modern Opéra Bar, 13 rue des Petits-Champs, 1er
Bastille, France’s largest opera house, (& 01-42-61-05-09; Métro: Bourse,
with curtains by designer Issey Palais Royal, or Pyramides; p. 288).
Miyake, has opera and symphony Here, the longhaired young bar-
performances in four concert halls tenders are mostly English, as are the
(its main hall seats 2,700). Whether waitresses, who are dressed in Laura
for a performance of Bizet or Tharp, Ashley garb. The place is like an infor-
dress with pomp and circumstance. mal club for Brits, Australians, and
• Sipping Cocktails at Willi’s: Back in Yanks, especially in the afternoon.
the early 1970s, the first-timer to Some 300 wines await your selection.

2 The Best Splurge Hotels


• Hôtel Ritz (15 place Vendôme, 1er; Louis XIV tapestries worth millions.
& 800/223-6800 or 01-43-16-30-30; See p. 98.
www.ritzparis.com). This hotel, which • Hôtel Meurice (228 rue de Rivoli,
gave the world the word “ritzy,” mean- 1er; & 01-44-58-10-10) has been
ing posh, occupies a magnificent restored to its former glory. It reigned
palace overlooking the octagonal bor- as the queen bee hotel of Paris in the
ders of one of the most perfect squares 19th century and has made a come-
in the world. The decor is pure opu- back to preside over post-millennium
lence. Marcel Proust wrote parts of Paris as well. From its Winter Garden
Remembrance of Things Past here, and to its sumptuous bedrooms that shel-
the world’s greatest chef, Georges- tered kings, this one is a winner. See
Auguste Escoffier, perfected many p. 84.
of his recipes in the Ritz kitchens See • Hôtel Pershing Hall (49 rue Pierre
p. 85. Charron, 8e; & 01-58-36-58-00;
• Four Seasons Hotel George V (31 www.pershing-hall.com) is not as well
av. George V, 8e; & 800/332-3442 known as the previous hotels, but it
or 01-49-52-70-00; www.fourseasons. too ranks among Paris’s pockets of
com). Humorist Art Buchwald once posh. Converted from an elegant town
wrote, “Paris without the George V house of the 19th century, it was dras-
would be Cleveland.” The swanky tically altered by Andrée Putnam, one
address has long been a favorite of of France’s most celebrated modern
celebrities in every field, including designers, into this citadel of fine liv-
Duke Ellington, who once wrote in ing. Built for the Comte de Paris and
his memoirs that his suite was so big his mistress, it was the Paris headquar-
that he couldn’t find the way out. Its ters for General John Pershing in
public and private rooms are deco- World War I—hence, its name. It’s
rated with a vast array of antiques and lavish, lush, and luxurious. See p. 100.
6 C H A P T E R 1 . T H E B E S T O F PA R I S

• Plaza Athénée (25 av. Montaigne, 8e; evocative of a visit to a classy private
& 866/732-1106 or 01-53-67-66-65; home, filled with tasteful, beautifully
www.plaza-athenee-paris.com) is still decorated bedrooms and intimate
the favorite lunchtime hangout for public salons with baronial furnish-
Parisian couturiers. It’s also a lot more ings evocative of the era of Louis XV.
than that, providing luxurious accom- You can sleep under a ceiling with
modations for the likes of the Rocke- exposed beams in a canopied bed. See
fellers and super-wealthy Brazilians. p. 111.
This swanky citadel is graced with pot- • L’Hôtel (13 rue des Beaux-Arts, 6e;
ted palms, crystal chandeliers, and ele- & 01-44-41-99-00; www.l-hotel.
gant furnishings—you name it: Louis com) is precious—just precious—the
XV, Louis XVI, Regency, whatever. Its Left Bank’s most charming little town
ivy-covered courtyard is a slice of house hotel. And, yes, this former
heaven. See p. 101. fleabag was where the great Oscar
• Hôtel d’Aubusson (33 rue Wilde died, disgraced and penniless.
Dauphine, 6e; & 01-43-29-43-43; That was Glenn Close or Robert De
www.hotelaubusson.com) lies in the Niro you saw walking through the
heart of St-Germain-des-Prés and is lobby, but not Elizabeth Taylor,
our favorite boutique hotel in Paris. It because the rooms were too small for
takes its name from the original her luggage. The hotel is a triumph of
Aubusson tapestries gracing its ele- Directoire architecture, and the
gant public rooms. Antiques and lux- ambience is oh, so seductive. See
urious accessories make a stay here p. 111.

3 The Best Moderately Priced Hotels


• Axial Beaubourg (11 rue du Temple, hotel on this island, we’d choose this
4e; & 01-42-72-72-22; www.axial restored 18th-century town house. We
beaubourg.com) is a winner in the like the abundance of fresh flowers and
increasingly fashionable Marais dis- the fireplace in the cellar bar. The
trict, convenient to the Picasso rooms are a bit small, but this is one of
Museum and the Centre Pompidou. the city’s greatest locations for a hotel,
Parisian fashionistas have made this a and that should count for something.
favorite nesting place. The old archi- See p. 94.
tecture, including time-worn stones • Hôtel Saint-Louis (75 rue St-Louis-
and exposed beams, has been en-l’Ile, 4e; & 01-46-34-04-80;
respected; otherwise, the place is as www.hotelsaintlouis.com). Like Hôtel
up-to-date as tomorrow. A member des Deux-Iles, this cozy nest, a
of the staff jokingly suggested to us restored 17th-century town house,
that this sophisticated rendezvous is occupies a “world apart” on a tiny
“not for virgins.” See p. 93. island in the middle of the Seine. The
• Hôtel des Deux-Iles (59 rue St-Louis- rooms may be petit, but the charm
en-l’Ile, 4e; & 01-43-26-13-35; of the place compensates, with its
www.deuxiles-paris-hotel.com). There exposed ceiling beams, wooden
exists no more platinum real estate, at Louis XIII furnishings, and modern
least in our view, than the Ile St-Louis, bathrooms. Opt for a fifth-floor bed-
Paris’s most beautiful isle in the Seine. room for a panoramic view over the
For a charming, yet unpretentious, rooftops of Paris. See p. 94.
T H E M O S T U N F O R G E T TA B L E D I N I N G E X P E R I E N C E S 7

• Galileo Hôtel (54 rue Galilee, 8e; • Hôtel de l’Abbaye Saint-Germain


& 01-47-20-66-06; www.galileo- (10 rue Cassette, 6e; & 01-45-
paris-hotel.com). In the super-expen- 44-38-11; www.hotel-abbaye.com).
sive 8th Arrondissement, site of the For those who’d like to stay in the heart
Champs-Elysées and France’s most of the Quartier Latin in the 5th
expensive street, avenue Montaigne, Arrondissement, this charming bou-
this is a holdout since it’s actually tique hotel, originally a convent in the
affordable to many visitors. In the 1700s, has been restored with a certain
epicenter of Paris, this restored town grace and sophisticated flair. Brightly
house is imbued with Parisian ele- painted rooms with traditional French
gance and charm. Though under- furnishings are inviting and comfort-
stated, the bedrooms are tastefully able, and the maintenance is first-rate.
furnished and most comfortable, and Grace notes include a courtyard with a
a few choice ones have glass-covered fountain, along with flowerbeds and
verandas. See p. 102. climbing ivy. Try for the upper-floor
• Hotel Trocadéro La Tour (5 bis rue room with a terrace overlooking Paris.
Massenet, 16e; & 01-45-24-43-03; See p. 112.
www.trocadero-la-tour.com). In a • Residence des Arts (14 rue Git-le-
tony district known for its well- Coeur, 6e; & 01-55-42-71-11;
heeled bourgeoisie and upscale www.arts-residence-paris.com). If
rents, this restored late-19th-cen- your own “studio” in Left Bank Paris
tury town house charges reasonable has always been a dream, you can rent
prices—for Paris, that is. Subdued one here, or else a tastefully decorated
elegance and refined comfort are suite or apartment—all at an afford-
just part of its allure, along with its able price. In the heart of the
view of the Eiffel Tower in the dis- Quartier Latin, this hotel was carved
tance. From its tree-filled courtyard from a former apartment building to
to its elegant, tastefully decorated which two upper floors were added in
bedrooms, this one is a winner and 1998. Some of the units come with
not as well known as it should be. kitchenettes, and a bistro and restau-
See p. 104. rant are on-site. See p. 115.

4 The Most Unforgettable Dining Experiences


• Le Grand Véfour (17 rue de Beaujo- • Aux Lyonnais (32 rue St-Marc, 2e;
lais, 1er; & 01-42-96-56-27). & 01-42-96-65-04). Paris’s bistro of
Seductively and appropriately time- bistros has been taken over by Alain
worn, this dining room is where Ducasse, the six-star Michelin chef
Napoleon sat wooing Joséphine. Its and self-proclaimed “greatest in the
Louis XVI–Directoire interior is a world.” In spite of that takeover, Aux
protected historic monument. With Lyonnais remains the quintessential
its haute cuisine, it has been the Parisian dining choice for Lyonnais
haunt of celebrities since 1760. Its specialties. As any city dweller of
cuisine, mercifully, is even better than Lyon will tell you, that city is the gas-
ever, because it insists on hiring only tronomic capital of France. The mar-
the world’s leading chefs. This monu- ket-fresh produce is as new as the
ment to the past still tantalizes 21st- 1890s bistro is old, with its backdrop
century palates. See p. 134. of potted palms, etched glass, and
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