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EYEWITNESS TRAVEL

MOROCCO
EYEWITNESS TRAVEL

MOROCCO
 Produced by Hachette Tourisme, Paris, France
EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Catherine Marquet
PROJECT EDITORS Hélène Gédouin-Hines,
Catherine Laussucq, Paulina Nourissier
ART DIRECTOR Guylaine Moi
DESIGNERS Maogani
CARTOGRAPHY Fabrice Le Goff

CONTRIBUTORS
Rachida Alaoui, Jean Brignon, Nathalie Campodonico,
Fabien Cazenave, Gaëtan du Chatenet, Alain Chenal, The Dadès valley (see pp272–3)
Carole French, Emmanuelle Honorin, Maati Kabbal,
Mohamed Métalsi, Marie-Pascale Rauzier, Richard Williams
Dorling Kindersley Limited CONTENTS
PUBLISHING MANAGER Jane Ewart
MANAGING EDITOR Anna Streiffert HOW TO USE
ENGLISH TRANSLATION & EDITOR Lucilla Watson
CONSULTANT Christine Osborne THIS GUIDE 6
DTP JasonLONDON,
Little, NEW
Conrad
YORK, van Dyk

INTRODUCING
MELBOURNE, MUNICH AND DELHI
PRODUCTION Sarah Dodd
www.dk.com

Reproduced in Singapore by Colourscan

Printed in China by L. Rex Printing Co. Ltd.
MOROCCO
First American Edition, 2002
10 11 12 13 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 DISCOVERING
Published in the United States by DK Publishing,
MOROCCO 10
375 Hudson Street, New York, New York 10014
Reprinted with revisions 2003, 2004, 2006, 2008, 2010 PUTTING MOROCCO
Copyright © 2002, 2010 Dorling Kindersley Limited, London ON THE MAP 14
ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. WITHOUT LIMITING THE RIGHTS UNDER
COPYRIGHT RESERVED ABOVE, NO PART OF THIS PUBLICATION MAY BE REPRODUCED,
STORED IN OR INTRODUCED INTO A RETRIEVAL SYSTEM, OR TRANSMITTED, IN
A PORTRAIT OF
ANY FORM, OR BY ANY MEANS (ELECTRONIC, MECHANCIAL, PHOTOCOPYING, MOROCCO 16
RECORDING, OR OTHERWISE), WITHOUT THE PRIOR WRITTEN PERMISSION OF BOTH
THE COPYRIGHT OWNER AND THE ABOVE PUBLISHER OF THIS BOOK.

PUBLISHED IN GREAT BRITAIN BY DORLING KINDERSLEY LIMITED.

MOROCCO THROUGH
A CATALOG RECORD FOR THIS BOOK IS AVAILABLE FROM THE LIBRARY OF CONGRESS.
THE YEAR 38
ISSN 1542-1554
ISBN 978-0-75666-197-7 THE HISTORY
Front cover main image: Courtyard at Ben Youssef Medersa, Marrakech
OF MOROCCO 44

The information in every

DK Eyewitness Travel Guide is checked regularly.
Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date
as possible at the time of going to press. Some details, however,
such as telephone numbers, opening hours, prices, gallery hanging
arrangements and travel information are liable to change. The
publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences arising
from the use of this book, nor for any material on third party
websites, and cannot guarantee that any website address in this
book will be a suitable source of travel information. We value the
views and suggestions of our readers very highly. Please write to:
Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides, Dorling Kindersley,
Detail of the mosque
80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL, Great Britain.
at Tin Mal (see p252)
The kasbah at Aït Benhaddou, near Ouarzazate
 MARRAKECH 222

HIGH ATLAS 244

OUARZAZATE &
THE SOUTHERN OASES
260

SOUTHERN MOROCCO
& WESTERN SAHARA
282 Rose petals gathered for making
rosewater

SURVIVAL GUIDE

MOROCCO PRACTICAL
REGION BY INFORMATION 360
REGION
TRAVEL INFORMATION
370
MOROCCO
AT A GLANCE 62
INDEX 378
RABAT 64
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
Olives from the Dadès valley 400
NORTHERN
ATLANTIC COAST 82
TRAVELLERS’ FURTHER READING 404
CASABLANCA 94 NEEDS
GLOSSARY 405
WHERE TO STAY
298

WHERE TO EAT
322

SHOPPING IN
MOROCCO 344
An illuminated manuscript
ENTERTAINMENT IN Dish from the Fès region
MOROCCO 350
SOUTHERN
ATLANTIC COAST 108 SPORTS & OUTDOOR
ACTIVITIES 354
TANGIER 128

MEDITERRANEAN
COAST & THE RIF 142

FÈS 162

MEKNÈS & VOLUBILIS

184

MIDDLE ATLAS 206 The Mausoleum of

Moulay Ismaïl at Meknès (pp194–5)
6 H O W T O U S E T H I S G U I D E

HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE

T his guide helps you get the most

from your visit to Morocco,
providing expert recommenda-
tions and detailed practical informa-
tion. Introducing Morocco maps the
towns, describe important sights, using
photographs, maps and illustrations.
Restaurants and hotel recommenda-
tions, and information about hiking,
trekking and other outdoor activities,
country and sets it in its historical and can be found in Travellers’ Needs. The
cultural context. The 13 sections com- Survival Guide contains practical tips
prising Morocco Region by Region, six on everything from visiting mosques
of which focus on the country’s major to transport around the country.

MAJOR CITIES Coloured thumb tabs

In this guide, Morocco is       
     

     


indentify the various towns
described in 13 sections,  and regions of Morocco.
three of which concentrate









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 H O W T O U S E T H I S G U I D E 7
    
   
 
    


  
     
   
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and important features.
Visit https://ebookname.com today to explore
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INTRODUCING
MOROCCO

DISCOVERING MOROCCO 1013

PUTTING MOROCCO ON THE MAP 1415
A PORTRAIT OF MOROCCO 1637
MOROCCO THROUGH THE YEAR 3843
THE HISTORY OF MOROCCO 4459
10 I N T R O D U C I N G M O R O C C O

DISCOVERING MOROCCO
M orocco’s varied geography,
multicultural atmosphere
and rich history make it
a fascinating country. Its towns
offer a striking contrast of ancient
or near the coast in the north; the
Atlas mountains run like a spine
from southwest to northeast,
separating the urban centres
from the desert. The landscape
kasbahs, mosques and souks includes beaches, mountains,
and modern architecture, with a lakes, forests and desert. These
mix of Berber, Arab and African Moroccan pages offer a brief overview to
peoples. Most major cities are on water-seller help you plan your visit.

This area also features some

NORTHERN ATLANTIC fascinating structures from a
COAST much earlier time, such as
the Neolithic stone circle
• Sandy beaches and forests at M’Soura (see p91).
• Birdwatching at Moulay
Bousselham
• Lixus’s Phoenician ruins CASABLANCA
• Neolithic and Roman sites
• Splendid Art Deco heritage
The coastline between • The second-largest mosque
Rabat and Tangier boasts in the world
some of the finest unspoilt • Bustling Old Medina
beaches in the country, as • Strolling around the
well as lush forests and Quartier Habous
lagoons. The motorway
follows the coastline, Expanded by the French
offering tempting glimpses from the 1920s onwards,
of the sea. You can see Casablanca is now the
Rabat’s imposing 14th-century cork-oak trees in the Forest financial capital of Morocco
Chellah Necropolis of Mamora (see p87) and, in and its biggest city.
December and January, Architecturally, the city offers
migratory birds at the Merja an interesting combination
RABAT Zerga lagoon near Moulay of Art Deco and the more
Bousselham (see p90). restrained Moorish styles.
• Oudaïa Kasbah fortress Morocco was shaped by Some of the city’s most
• The majestic Mausoleum waves of invaders, including impressive Art Deco buildings
of Mohammed V the Phoenicians, Romans, can be found in and around
• Impressive Chellah Necropolis Spanish, Portuguese and the Place des Nations Unies
• Ancient artifacts at the Dutch. The Roman ruins and the Boulevard
Musée Archéologique at Thamusida (see p87), Mohammed V (see pp98–9)
the ancient Phoenician in the heart of the new town.
Morocco’s administrative and city of Lixus (see pp90–91) The colossal Mosque of
political capital, Rabat is the and the Portuguese town Hassan II (see pp102–3), on
country’s second-largest city of Asilah (see p91) are all the seafront, is the second
after Casablanca. It has a worth a visit. biggest in the world, after
relaxed, though cosmopolitan,
ambience. With its ancient
ramparts, palace, mosque
and gardens, the 12th-
century Oudaïa Kasbah
(see pp68–9) is the main
attraction, followed by the
17th-century medina to the
south, with its colourful
souks. Other must-sees are
the splendid Mausoleum of
Mohammed V (see pp74–5),
the Chellah Necropolis (see
pp80–81) and the impressive
collections in the Musée
Archéologique (see pp78–9). The vast interior of the Mosque of Hassan II, in Casablanca

Moroccan Festival, a painting by André Suréda (1872–1930)

 D I S C O V E R I N G M O R O C C O 11

the medina and the harbour.

The medina is located to the
northeast of the city, and the
Kasbah (see p132) is at its
northern end, along with the
Dar el-Makhzen palace-
museum and the Kasbah
Mosque. The Grand Socco
(Place du 9 Avril 1947)
The white city of Essaouira, on the Southern Atlantic coast (see p138) provides the link
between the medina and
the mosque in Mecca, while In the foothills of the High the Ville Nouvelle; it hosts
the Old Medina (see p100), Atlas, the Imouzzer des Ida a busy street market at night.
still surrounded by ramparts, Outanane (see pp126–7) The bustling Fondouk
gives an idea of the city’s offers good hiking among Chejra (see p138) is like
humble origins as a tiny waterfalls and argan trees. an Oriental bazaar packed
port. A colourful market is with weavers’ workshops.
held here daily. There is also
a fishing harbour and a large
modern port (see p100) with MEDITERRANEAN
excellent fish restaurants. COAST AND THE RIF
With its flower-lined streets
and souks, the Quartier • Riffian towns and villages
Habous (see p106), also • Ceuta and Melilla’s Spanish
known as the New Medina, connection
is a pleasant place for a stroll. • Holy Chefchaouen
• Birdwatching around the
Moulouya Estuary
SOUTHERN ATLANTIC
COAST This coast has some beauti-
ful beaches around Ceuta,
• Portuguese history at developing into rocky cliffs
El-Jadida further towards Melilla.
• Surfing at Oualidia Inland, the Rif mountains
• Beautiful Essaouira (see pp154–5) run from west
• Hiking around Imouzzer A waiter and relaxed customers to east; myriad villages nestle
des Ida Outanane at a streetside café in Tangier among their low hills, with
higher summits to the east.
This coastline has some The area has a strong
beautiful deserted beaches TANGIER Spanish feel, with Ceuta
interspersed with fortified (see p147) and Melilla (see
towns dating back to the • Tangier’s literary heritage pp158–9) being Spanish
period of the Portuguese and the Café de Paris territories. More interesting
occupation. The region is • The Dar el-Makhzen palace are the cities of Tetouan
undergoing a period of in the Kasbah (see pp148–9), with its
revitalization, with plans for • Shopping at the colourful successive settlements by the
hundreds of new hotels Fondouk Chejra Jews, Moors and Spaniards,
and apartments. and the holy town of
El-Jadida (see pp114–15) is As the main port linking Chefchaouen (see pp150–51),
a small town with a fort and Europe and Africa, Tangier with its steep, narrow streets
a fascinating Portuguese-built has a bustling cosmopolitan and limewashed buildings.
cistern. Just to the east is the atmosphere. The writers and Nature lovers should head
impressive 18th-century artists who have visited over to the Moulouya Estuary (see
Kasbah Boulaouane (see the centuries – from Samuel p159), where a reserve plays
pp112–13), located in the Pepys to William Burroughs, host to a great variety of birds.
heart of a region famous for from Eugène Delacroix to
falconry and wine-making. Henri Matisse – have helped
Oualidia (see p115) has establish the city’s liberal
made a name for itself thanks and bohemian credentials.
to the quality of its oysters. The Place de France and
It is also a famous surfing Place de Faro (see p139) are
centre, as is the pretty town adjacent squares. Famous
of Essaouira (see pp120–21). artists and writers would
Visitors to the city should not gather here, at places like the
miss its labyrinthine medina, Café de Paris, to sip drinks The typical white-and-indigo
harbour and ramparts. and enjoy the views over buildings of Chefchaouen
12 I N T R O D U C I N G M O R O C C O

MIDDLE ATLAS

• Mountains, forests and lakes

• Trekking in Jbel Tazzeka
National Park
• The spectacular Cascades
d’Ouzoud

This region occupies the

central area of Morocco and
features several fortified
ancient towns. Most visitors,
however, will be drawn to its
unspoilt landscape of peaks,
valleys, lakes and lush forests.
Meknès’s Bab Mansour el-Aleuj, one of the finest city gates in Morocco Good bases from which to
explore the area include Taza
pp168–9), of interest as (see p210), one of the oldest
FÈS much for its building and its towns in Morocco; Imouzzer
fine Andalusian garden as for du Kandar (see p211), with its
• World Heritage Site status its collections of local crafts. troglodytic dwellings; Ifrane
• Mosques and medersas (see p212), with its distinctly
• Workshops and tanneries French feel; and Berber-style
around Place el-Saffarine MEKNÈS AND VOLUBILIS Azrou (see p212).
• Shopping in the souks With its caverns and gorges,
• The monumental Bab Jbel Tazzeka National Park
The oldest city in Morocco, Mansour el-Aleuj arch (see p210), on the east side of
Fès is also the country’s • The splendid Mausoleum the range, offers some spec-
religious and cultural capital. of Moulay Ismaïl tacular scenery. At the south-
Its old town, Fès el-Bali, is a • Moroccan arts at the west end of the Middle Atlas,
UNESCO World Heritage Site. Musée Dar Jamaï the Cascades d’Ouzoud (see
It features a rich architectural • Ancient ruins at Volubilis p221) are worth visiting – not
tapestry of fortresses, city just for the waterfall, but also
gates and ramparts; mosques Moulay Ismaïl is to be for the macaque monkeys
and medersas (theological credited for the lavish that have made their home
schools); palaces and gardens; architecture of Meknès (see in the surrounding fig trees.
and souks and workshops. pp186–201), which he built
Visitors should not miss as his imperial capital in the
the intricately decorated 17th century. The fabulous
14th-century Bou Inania gate of Bab Mansour el-Aleuj
Medersa (see pp172–3) and (see p189) leads to the
El-Attarine Medersa (see kasbah, which contains the
p171), considered pinnacles finest buildings in the city,
of Moorish architecture; the such as the Mausoleum of
Karaouiyine Mosque (see Moulay Ismaïl (see pp194–5)
pp176–7); the Tanners’ and the Dar el-Makhzen
Quarter (see p175) and the royal complex (see pp192–3).
souks (see p167); and the The medina features many
Fondouk el-Nejjarine (see fascinating souks, with cloth
p167), a former caravanserai. merchants, metalworkers, A group of musicians performing
Museums include the cobblers and a Berber carpet at Place Jemaa el-Fna in Marrakech
Musée Dar el-Batha (see bazaar. Other sights include
the Grand Mosque (see p188)
and the Musée Dar Jamaï MARRAKECH
(see pp190–91), a museum
of Moroccan arts with a fine • Bustling Place Jemaa el-Fna
Andalusian garden. • The vast Koutoubia Mosque
Dating from the 3rd century • Peaceful city gardens
BC, Volubilis (see pp202–5) is • Grand palaces and museums
worth visiting for its extensive
Roman ruins, including the Marrakech, the red-walled
Arch of Caracalla, the city that gave Morocco its
Basilica and the Capitol, name, is set on a plain
Aerial view of the colourful as well as the remains of between the Atlas mountains
Tanners’ Quarter in Fès Roman houses and mosaics. and the Sahara. Its origins
 D I S C O V E R I N G M O R O C C O 13

were as a staging post on the Sahara and ride a camel

the spice route, and the over the Erg Chebbi dunes
bustle of its souks reflects the near Merzouga (see p281).
commercial soul of the city. Trekkers and rock-climbers
On the central square, will also find plenty to keep
Place Jemaa el-Fna (see them entertained.
p234), food-sellers vie for Less energetic travellers
your attention, along with may wish to visit the film
snake-charmers, jugglers, studios at Ouarzazate (see
performing monkeys, henna- p264), or the palm groves
painters and professional and beautiful kasbahs at
storytellers. The minaret Skoura (see p272).
of the huge Koutoubia
Mosque (see pp236–7), built
in 1147, watches over all. SOUTHERN MOROCCO
Beautiful green spaces AND WESTERN SAHARA
on the outskirts of the city –
such as the Menara, Aguedal • Activities on Agadir beach
and Majorelle gardens and Trekking through the Erg Chebbi • Boundless expanses of
La Palmeraie (see pp242–3) – dunes, near Merzouga sand dunes
provide a tranquil counter- • Birdwatching at Souss
point to the general bustle, Massa National Park
while the Palais Bahia (see OUARZAZATE AND THE • Guelmim’s camel souk
pp234–5) and the Dar Si Saïd SOUTHERN OASES
Museum (see pp240–41) The town of Agadir (see
offer a fascinating insight into • Ancient towns and ksour pp286–7) was destroyed by
the architecture, culture and • Camel-riding over the dunes an earthquake in 1960 and
crafts of this imperial city. • Film studios at Ouarzazate has since been rebuilt as the
• Scenic kasbahs at Skoura main package-holiday resort
of Morocco. It has modern
HIGH ATLAS This region is sandwiched architecture, big hotels, a
between the High Atlas wide range of activities
• Hiking in the Jebel Toubkal mountains to the north and and a large sandy bay.
Massif the Sahara to the south. Agadir is a good base
• Berber dwellings Ancient towns and ksour for trips to the Souss plains
• Skiing and mountain-biking (fortified villages) are scattered to the east, the Anti-Atlas
along the main roads that mountains to the southeast
The highest mountain range follow the Draa, Dadès and the disputed territory of
in North Africa runs west– and Tafilalt valleys, usually the Western Sahara to the
east from Jebel Toubkal (see featuring crumbling kasbahs, south. The most popular
p249) – the highest peak at markets and workshops. excursions are to Taroudannt
4,167 m (13,676 ft) – to Jbel Because of its trading history, (see p288), with its great
Ayachi, towering above the this region has been occupied ramparts and lively souks;
Ziz gorges. There are few by Berber, Arabs and black Tafraoute (see p293) in the
roads here, and the terrain is Moroccans, who still remain. Ameln Valley, with its lunar
harsh, though every possible You will need several landscape; Souss Massa
patch of land is irrigated and days with a guide and a National Park (see p292),
given over to growing crops four-wheel-drive vehicle to for birdwatching; and
and grazing livestock. explore the region’s gorges, Guelmim (see p294),
This region is the including the impressive renowned for its camel
mountain stronghold of Todra gorge (see p274), and souk and the mysterious
the Berbers, and here it is longer if you want to get to “blue men” of the desert.
possible to observe their
subsistence lifestyle. The
28 villages of the remote
Aït Bouguemez valley (see
pp254–7) consist of pisé
houses made from sun-
baked earth and straw and
fortified tighremts, larger
dwellings usually occupied
by the village chief.
Oukaïmeden (see p248) is a
small ski resort that also acts
as a good base for summer
mountain-biking and hiking. The long, sandy beach of Agadir, Morocco’s premier holiday resort
14 I N T R O D U C I N G M O R O C C O

Putting Morocco on the Map

Morocco has many faces. It is situated on the African continent and has
traces of African heritage. But its climate and varied topography, its historical
association with Andalusian Spain, and its wish to join the European Union
give it a European facet. In the distant past it belonged to the indigenous
Berbers. To the Arabs and Muslims who have held Morocco since the 7th
century, it is known as Maghreb el-Aqsa – the westernmost country of the
Muslim world. Morocco has 33,750,000 inhabitants, almost 40 per cent of
whom are under 15 years old. The population is unevenly distributed over
the country’s 710,850 sq km (274,388 sq miles), being concentrated along
the Atlantic coast and in the Rif and the High Atlas mountains.

Safi

ATLANTIC Essaouira

OCEAN
Taroudannt
AGADIR

Tiznit
Tafraoute
Satellite picture of Morocco Lanzarote
Canary Islands Guelmim
La Palma (SPAIN)

Las Palmas Fuerteventura

Tan Tan
Tenerife Tarfaya
Gran Canaria
MOROCCO El-Mahbas
Laayoune

Smara

Guelta
Zemmour KEY
International airport

Domestic airport

Ferry port
Dakhla
Motorway

Motorway under construction

Major road

Minor road

Track

Railway line

Ferry route

National border
Nouadhibou
 P U T T I N G M O R O C C O O N T H E M A P 15

SPAIN MEDITERRANEAN
Gibraltar (UK)
SEA
Tangier Ceuta (SPAIN) Oran
Tetouan Al-Hoceima Melilla (SPAIN)
Larache Chefchaouen
Nador Sidi bel Abbès
Ksar el-Kebir Oujda
Tlemcen
Kénitra Guercif
RABAT Fès
Meknès
Taza
CASABLANCA
Ifrane El-Bayadh
Azrou
El-Jadida Khenifra
Settat
Midelt
Beni Mellal Figuig
Er-Rachidia
MARRAKECH Tinerhir
Boumalne Béchar
du Dadès Erfoud
Asni Abadla
Ouarzazate Merzouga

Zagora

Tata

A L G E R I A
Tindouf Reggane

AFRICA
M A U R I T A N I A TUNISIA
MEDITERRANEAN
SEA
MOROCCO

ALGERIA LIBYA EGYPT

MAURITANIA
MALI NIGER
SENEGAL ERITREA
Tropic of Cancer BURKINA CHAD
SUDAN
GUINEA FASO
NIGERIA
SIERRA ETHIOPIA
LEONE CENTRAL AFRICAN
LIBERIA REPUBLIC
CAMEROON SOMALIA
IVORY GHANA UGANDA
COAST CONGO KENYA
TOGO GABON DEMOCRATIC
BENIN REPUBLIC
INDIAN
M A L I OF CONGO
TANZANIA OCEAN

ANGOLA
ATLANTIC MALAWI
ZAMBIA
OCEAN
MADAGASCAR
ZIMBABWE
NAMIBIA MOZAMBIQUE
0 km 100 BOTSWANA
0 km 2000
0 miles 100
0 miles 2000 SOUTH
AFRICA
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