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food in th e civil war era: the north
A Selection of Recipes
Adapted from the Original Nineteenth-Century Texts,
Brought Up-to-Date for the Modern Cook
Books in the American Food in History Series

Food in the Civil War Era: The North

Food in the Civil War Era: The South
Food in the American Gilded Age
Food and Health Fads
Food in the Age of Progress
Food in the Jazz Age
Food in the Depression
Food and the World War II Era
Food in the 1950s and 1960s
Civil Rights, Black Power, and Food
Eating Ethnic in an Age of Globalization
 A Selection of Modernized Recipes from

F OOD
i n t he c iv il wa r e ra
-

t he north
edited by helen zoe veit

Adapted by Jennifer Billock

Michigan State University Press

e ast l ansing
 Copyright © 2015 by Michigan State University

The paper used in this publication meets the minimum requirements

of ansi/niso z39.48-1992 (r 1997) (Permanence of Paper).

Michigan State University Press

East Lansing, Michigan 48823-5245

Printed and bound in the United States of America.

21 20 19 18 17 16 15 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10

Library of Congress Control Number: 2015933881

isbn: 978-1-61186-156-3 (pbk.)

isbn: 978-1-60917-442-2 (ebook: PDF)

Cover and book design by Erin Kirk New

Cover illustration is from The Cook’s Own Book: An American Family Cook Book
(New York: James Miller, 1864), front matter, MSUSC.

Michigan State University Press is a member of the Green Press Initiative and is
committed to developing and encouraging ecologically responsible publishing practices.
For more information about the Green Press Initiative and the use of recycled paper in
book publishing, please visit www.greenpressinitiative.org.

Visit Michigan State University Press at www.msupress.org

 con t e n ts

Introduction vii

breakfast dinner
Hashed Beef 2 Pea Soup 24
Stewed Trout 4 Mushroom Catsup 24
Baked Potatoes 6 Chicken Pie 26
Slapjacks 6 Beef Smothered in Onions 28
Hasty Pudding 7 Fried Tomatoes 30
Tea/Coffee 7 Boiled Onions 31
Green Corn Cakes 32
-
-
picnic/lunch
Cucumbers and Radishes with Butter 10 dessert
Cold Ham Cake 11 Coffee Custard 34
Minced Salt Fish 12 Bird’s-Nest Pudding 35
Pickled Eggs 14 Fruit, Nuts 37
Preserved Tomatoes 16
Mrs. Reed’s Brown Bread 18
Potato Rolls 20
Strawberry Preserves 21
Sponge Gingerbread 22
 A selection of recipes, updated and tested by food editor
Jennifer Billock, from

Food in the Civil War Era: The North, edited by Helen Zoe Veit
(isbn 978-1-61186-122-8)

-
 Introduction
-

Cookbooks offer a unique and valuable way to examine are many more recipes for puddings, part of the English
American life in the era of the Civil War. One of the first culinary tradition that was still thriving in the United
and most obvious things they reveal is how differently States more than eighty years after the revolution. Like-
Americans ate in the mid-nineteenth century. For exam- wise, foods that would become mainstays of all-Amer-
ple, Americans who could afford to do so ate huge quan- ican cooking in the next century, like cheese, ground
tities of animal products, especially meat. Middle-class beef, and chocolate, play very minor roles in these reci-
cooking usually incorporated meat into every meal, and pes. In contrast, there were whole culinary genres in the
often into every dish, making use of a variety of animal Civil War era that almost totally disappeared from main-
species and body parts that would dizzy a contemporary stream American cookbooks in later years, including
eater accustomed to the poverty of modern supermarket sweetmeats, invalid cookery, and a range of homemade
selections. Desserts routinely called for meat products, common drinks.
too. Many people also ate huge breakfasts filled not just Besides showing how differently Americans ate, these
with meats but with dishes like potatoes, vegetables, cookbooks also show how differently Americans cooked.
beans, and pie. Preserving food and preventing spoilage were urgent
Meanwhile, many of the foods that people today con- tasks in an era before reliable refrigeration, and cook-
sider quintessential American dishes, steeped in age- ing techniques often were one and the same as preser-
old tradition, don’t appear in these cookbooks at all, or vation methods, so that menus regularly featured an
appear only in unfamiliar forms. For example, there are array of pickles, jams, relishes, alcohols, and syrups as
a few recipes for apple pie, but there are many more reci- well as smoked, pickled, or potted meats. People in the
pes for blancmange, a popular nineteenth-century cus- Civil War era also routinely produced items at home that
tard. There are occasional recipes for cookies, but there people today think of as being only available from gro-

This is an abridged version of the introductory essay “Seeing the Civil War Era through Its Cookbooks,”
in Food in the Civil War Era: The North (East Lansing: Michigan State University Press, 2014).

vii
cery stores. Foods made at home included bread, but- cinnamon to tapioca to coffee. The fact that these cook-
ter, cheese, gelatin, carbonated drinks, vinegar, yeast, book authors didn’t hesitate to call for imported ingre-
shortening, bouillon cubes, and ketchup and other con- dients, even during the Civil War, is one more sign that
diments, among many other items. Yet Americans in the these were northern cookbooks, since virtually none
1860s—especially the middle-class northeastern Ameri- of these far-flung ingredients would have been readily
cans targeted by these cookbooks—were not completely available in the South by the middle of the war because
off the industrial food grid. There was already a complex of the blockade. But if food in the Civil War era was not
system of national food transportation in place, and strictly local, it was much more seasonal than it is today.
this decade saw the growth of early canning and meat- Seasonal availability of ingredients was a serious con-
processing industries as well as the expansion of com- straint, an issue that arises in all the cookbooks.
mercial brand names. Many of these cookbooks focused openly on thrift.
The cookbooks also hint at how difficult it was to run Economizing was an old theme in American cookery, but
a nineteenth-century kitchen. Just operating the oven it was especially relevant to families during and after the
was an enormously complicated job, and sometimes a Civil War, as economizing on food took on new urgency
dangerous one. Heated by coal or by wood, ovens were for many. Hundreds of thousands of northern families
notoriously hard to control, and cooks would not have lost husbands, sons, or fathers, and in many cases that
had thermometers to help them gauge the temperature. meant they lost the basis of their economic subsistence.
Cookbook authors relied heavily on their readers’ expe- As many Americans knew all too well, turning the scraps
rience to know how hot to get the oven and how long left from one dinner into a palatable meal the next day
to leave the food inside. Of course, for people with little could mean the difference between living within one’s
cooking experience to draw upon, cookbooks could offer budget and sliding into debt.
frustratingly meager help on this point. Cookbooks offer a tantalizing glimpse of the past, but
Another development that might surprise modern like all historical documents they offer us only a glimpse.
readers is that Americans in the 1860s responded with In fact, cookbooks can be an especially tricky source. For
growing interest to recipes whose titles loudly declared the most part we don’t know the most basic information
them to be foreign. These cookbooks are filled with reci- about the people who read these cookbooks; in most
pes like Chicken Pillau, Calcutta Curry, Vermicelli Soup, cases we don’t even know how many people bought
Charlotte Russe, and Mullagatawnee Soup, among them. We also don’t know how readers might have mod-
many others. Moreover, all these cookbooks, even the ified the recipes, if they tried them at all, or what they
humblest, demanded ingredients that would have been thought of any dishes that resulted. And even the con-
transported across the country and the globe—from tents of the cookbooks themselves can be deceptive. The

viii
recipes and cooking techniques that any single author a reminder that daily life on the Union home front,
suggested don’t necessarily reflect how Americans in especially in the urban North, saw far fewer devastat-
the Civil War era actually cooked and ate. Cookbook ing changes than life in the Confederacy. Yet the five
authors made decisions about which recipes to include cookbooks excerpted in this volume are all still very
and which to leave out, and they based those decisions much books of their time, and the effects of war and
in part on guesses about what information would be politics on daily life is perceptible in all of them. By
helpful to readers. The fact that someone went to the reading closely we can glean hints of the turbulence
trouble of recording a recipe at all meant that the writer churning outside the kitchen window. People who are
assumed most people didn’t already know it by heart. used to thinking of cookbooks as a source for recipes,
At the same time, cookbook authors often left out and not much else, may be surprised at how much
any mention of the Civil War itself, even when they information they can reveal about the daily lives, hab-
were writing right in the middle of it. To some extent, its, aspirations, and cultural assumptions of people in
this is a reminder that lives went on and that dinner the past.
still appeared on most tables most nights, no matter
how much the world was changing outside. It’s also helen zoe veit

ix
x
B R EAKFAST

1
- Hashed Beef

Prep time: 5 minutes; Cook time: 20 minutes;

Total time: 25 minutes

Serves 4

Ingredients
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 tablespoon flour
1 large onion, minced
1 cup beef stock
1 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons chopped peperoncinis
1 pound roast beef, sliced Steps
2 slices of bread Over medium-high heat, brown the butter, flour, and
onion. Slowly stir in the beef stock and salt. Increase
the heat to medium and stir constantly until the sauce
is thick, about 5 minutes.

Add the peperoncinis and beef. Heat through and pour

into a serving dish.

Serve with toasted bread cut into triangles.

2
3
- Stewed Trout

Prep time: 10 minutes; Cook time: 55 minutes;

Total time: 1 hour, 5 minutes

Serves 4

Ingredients
2 trout fillets, skinned
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 tablespoon flour
1½ teaspoon ground nutmeg
1 teaspoon ground mace
½ teaspoon cayenne
1 teaspoon salt
2 cups veal gravy, or 1 cup turkey gravy mixed Pour in the gravy and add the lemon. Bring to a boil.
with 1 cup beef gravy Decrease heat to low and cover the pan. Simmer for 40
Half a lemon, thinly sliced minutes.
2 cups white wine
Uncover the pan, remove the fish, and stir in the wine.
Steps Increase heat to medium and bring the gravy to a boil.
Wash the trout and dry it completely. Set aside. Boil for 5 minutes.

Over medium heat, melt the butter in a stewpan, Pour a third of the gravy over the fish and the remain-
dredging in the flour throughout. Mix in the nutmeg, der into a sauce tureen. Serve immediately.
mace, cayenne, and salt.

Add the trout and cook until slightly browned, about 3

minutes.

4
5
- Baked Potatoes - Slapjacks

Prep time: 10 minutes; Cook time: 1 hour; Prep time: 5 minutes; Cook time: 10 minutes;
Total time: 1 hour, 10 minutes Total time: 15 minutes

Serves 4 Serves 4

Ingredients Ingredients
4 medium potatoes, unpeeled 2 cups milk
4 tablespoons salted butter (optional) 3 eggs
4 tablespoons sour cream (optional) 1 teaspoon baking soda
4 tablespoons shredded cheddar cheese (optional) 1 teaspoon salt
4 tablespoons chopped chives (optional) 2 cups flour
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
Steps 3 tablespoons powdered sugar (optional)
Preheat the oven to 375°F. 1 tablespoon nutmeg (optional)

Scrub and dry the potatoes. Poke 10 to 12 holes in each Steps

potato with a fork. Bake directly on the oven rack for an Mix together the milk, eggs, baking soda, salt, and flour
hour. until smooth.

Remove potatoes from the oven and cut open length- Melt the butter in a skillet over medium heat. Fry 1 cup
wise. Serve with butter, sour cream, cheese, and chives. of batter at a time, 2 minutes per side, or until lightly
browned. The slapjacks should be about the size of a
dinner plate.

Serve hot with powdered sugar and nutmeg sprinkled

on top. Slapjacks will be thicker and more custard-like
than typical pancakes.

6
- Hasty Pudding - Tea/Coffee

Prep time: 5 minutes; Cook time: 15 minutes;

Total time: 20 minutes

Serves 4

Ingredients
4 cups plus 1 cup water
1½ cups cornmeal
2 teaspoons salt

Steps A brand name coffee pot, a luxury few Americans

Over medium heat, bring 4 cups of water to a boil. would have possessed in the 1860s, is described in
The American Practical Cookery Book (Philadelphia,
Meanwhile, stir together the cornmeal, salt, and John E. Potter & Co., 1859):
remaining water. Add mixture to the boiling water and
“Boiled coffee, it is well known, is superior to coffee made
stir constantly until it is thick and heated through, after the French fashion, by straining; but, when boiled in an
about 15 minutes. Serve immediately. ordinary coffee pot, the fine aroma goes off with the vapor,
leaving the infusion flat or bitter, hence a resort by many
housekeepers to the French biggin. Recently, there has been
patented a new coffee pot, which entirely removes the com-
mon objection of waste of strength, and flavor, by evapora-
tion in boiling. It is called the “Old Dominion” Coffee Pot,
and is made with a condenser at the top in which two bent
tubes are arranged, one of which acts as a syphon. . . . As the
coffee continues to boil, the vapor, loaded with the aroma,
continues to pass through the tube into the water held in the
condenser . . . Thus the coffee is boiled, and yet does not lose
a particle of its fine aroma or strength.”

7
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