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Thanksgiving 101
J
Celebrate America’s Favorite Holiday with America’s Thanksgiving Expert

Rick Rodgers

Photographs by Ben Fink

 K
Contents

Acknowledgments v

Introduction
Talking Turkey
1

Getting It Together
3

Appetizers and Beverages

Just a Little Something to Keep the Edge Off . . .
11

Soups and Salads

Who’s on First?
24

iii
 Turkey and Friends
The Main Event
41

Stuffings and Dressings

The Stuff That Dressings Are Made Of . . .
77

Side Dishes
And the Award for the Best Supporting Side Dish Goes to . . .
87

Photographic Insert

Yeast and Quick Breads

Rising to the Occasion
121

Desserts
How Many Ways Can You Say “Pumpkin”?
132

Leftovers
There’s Got to Be a Morning After . . .
162

Thanksgiving Menu Planner 170

Traditional Thanksgiving Feast171

A Sophisticated Thanksgiving Dinner 173
A Chile Lover’s Thanksgiving 175
Thanksgiving for a Crowd 177

Index 179

About the Author

Credits
Cover
Copyright
About the Publisher

iv Contents
 K
Acknowledgments

This book was born from my Thanksgiving recipes for my cooking classes, I have to work
cooking class, which I have taught from well ahead of my annual tour. I have prepared
Washington to Florida every autumn for over many a Thanksgiving meal in July—often in
fifteen years. When the book was fi rst other people’s kitchens. Harriet Bell tops this
published, new methods of roasting turkeys, list of people who have happily lent me their
such as brining, high-temperature roasting, and kitchens and taste buds. She was the editor of
deep-frying, were being introduced. A lot can many of my books, and she’s been a great
change in ten years, both in the public’s taste friend over many years, too. And we shared the
and the way that an author might approach a fun of deep-frying a turkey together—a
recipe. Organic turkeys were not commonly bonding experience if ever there was one.
available, and heritage turkeys were hardly sold Steven and Cynthia Stahl and Ron Dier were
at all. This new edition reflects these changes, always generous with their kitchens,
and the reader will find some tweaks, friendships, and dishwashing talents during the
adjustments, and new approaches along the many years of wonderful Thanksgivings we’ve
way, all developed from continued testing, shared. And, of course, my parents, Dick and
tasting, and observation. You’ll also see some Eleanor Rodgers, who produce a flawless
recipes that have become new favorites. On Thanksgiving year after year, and showed me
the other hand, other well-established how fun and easy it can be.
Thanksgiving recipes and traditions have been Many cooking schools throughout the
left alone, and I hope that they serve to bring country allowed me to hone my Thanksgiving
back happy memories of great holiday meals. dinner-making skills. Thanks to Adventures in
In order to keep up with creating new Cooking (Wayne, New Jersey, with a special

v
hug to owner Arlene Ward and my long- For researching assistance and permission to
standing assistants, Maria and Paul Lee), The use their companies’ products and recipes, I am
Silo (New Milford, Connecticut, and “The grateful to: Linda Compton (Ocean Spray
Rickettes,” Barbara, Caryl, Cynthia, Lauren, and Cranberries), Ann Marie Murray (Campbell
Ann), Draegers’ Markets (San Mateo and Menlo Soup Company), Roz O’Hearn (Nestlé USA/
Park, California), Let’s Get Cookin’ (Westlake Libby’s Pumpkin), and Cynthia Giorgio
Village, California, with extra appreciation to (General Foods/ Jell-O and Kraft Philadelphia
owner Phyllis Vacarelli and my sous-chef there, cream cheese). Thanks to Valerie Tully of the
JoAnn Hecht), Sur La Table (many locations National Turkey Federation for the turkey
nationwide), Dierberg’s School of Cooking industry statistics and information. For the
(St. Louis, Missouri), Kroger’s Markets (various history of American food companies and eating
locations in Georgia and Florida), Cook ’n Tell habits, two books proved invaluable: James
(Colt’s Neck, New Jersey), Classic Recipes Trager’s The Food Chronology (Henry Holt, 1995)
(Westfield, New Jersey), King’s Markets (Short and Jean Anderson’s The American Century
Hills, New Jersey), A Southern Season (Chapel Cookbook (Clarkson Potter, 1997).
Hill, North Carolina), Cook’s of Crocus Hill Thanks to Sonia Greenbaum, copy editor,
(Edina, Minneapolis), In Good Taste (Portland, and Ann Cahn, production editor. At
Oregon, owned by the ever-loyal Barb Dawson), HarperCollins, my longtime publishing home,
Ramekins (Sonoma, California, with an extra thanks for the continued support of Michael
helping of thanks to Bob Nemerovski and Lisa Morrison, David Sweeney, Gail Winston, and
Lavagetto, and Central Market (various Sarah Whitman-Salkin.
locations in Texas). And while I certainly can’t In my life, very little would get done if it
list all of my students by name, there are weren’t for Diane Kniss. Her helpfulness and
special ones who always show up, year after diligence are combined with a sense of humor
year, to taste and collect the current recipes, that makes her the kind of co-worker that
and I am especially thankful for their loyalty makes you want to get to work so you can
and appetite. try to top yesterday’s laughs. As you know,
Susan Wyler, cookbook editor and friend, Thanksgiving makes for a lot of dishwashing,
encouraged my affection for turkey and stuffi ng but Diane never complains. Thanks, as always,
by providing projects on those subjects that to my agent and dear friend of many years,
helped establish me as the expert on Things Susan Ginsburg, and her lovely and diligent
Thanksgiving. The first edition of this book was assistant, Emily Scardino. Finally, Thanksgiving
vastly improved by the input of my friend and dinner is never better than when I share the
colleague Judith Sutton. table with my partner, Patrick Fisher, who has
eaten almost as many turkeys as I have.

vi Acknowledgments
 J
Introduction
Talking Turkey

O ver the last fifteen years, I have

prepared scores of Thanksgiving
dinners for thousands of people.
Turkey addict? Pumpkin pie groupie? A victim
of gravy obsession syndrome? Yes, but there is a
to represent their turkey products, they came to
me. I learned everything there was to know
about turkey, spending lots of time on turkey
farms and in the kitchen, and wrote my first
cookbook on the subject.
better reason. I travel all over the country Since then, I have traveled all over the
teaching a cooking class called Thanksgiving country teaching Thanksgiving cooking classes
101. Now everything I teach in my classes is in and making television and radio appearances
this book, with my favorite recipes, Make ahead on how to have the perfect Thanksgiving meal.
tips, anecdotes, organization secrets, and Everyone, from friends to television producers,
insights into what makes this holiday so now calls me “Mr. Thanksgiving” or “The
special. Turkey Meister.”
How did I become a Thanksgiving guru? In One of the best things about my work as a
1985, I created a catering company, Cuisine cooking teacher is that I get personal contact
Américaine, and specialized in cooking with our country’s home cooks—I am not a
regional American foods. And what is more restaurant chef who is out of touch with how
American than Thanksgiving dinner? My people actually cook. No matter where I go,
customers loved my holiday spreads. In 1990, from Seattle to Miami, I ask my students about
when one of the East Coast’s largest poultry their personal Thanksgiving dishes and
producers was looking for a media spokesperson customs. First, Thanksgiving 101 is a collection

1
of these favorite recipes—even if some of them hear all of you worried cooks going “Whew!
start with a can of soup or a box of Jell-O. Some Thank you!!”)
of Thanksgiving’s most cherished recipes are My students also tell me that these recipes
brand-name specific. I call these “Classic are too good to reserve for just one day of the
Recipes,” and they include some background on year, and I agree. Thanksgiving isn’t the only
how they rose to the top to become holiday time when turkey makes an appearance—it’s
icons. perfect for a Sunday supper, creating leftovers
We all know the generic recipes that form to use for other meals, and many families serve
the backbone of the quintessential the bird with fixings for Christmas and Easter,
Thanksgiving dinner. Mashed potatoes, gravy, too. You’ll savor many of the other dishes year-
piecrust, and stuffing all fit into this category. round also, especially the side dishes and
With practice, these dishes become simple, but desserts. For example, I rarely serve grilled pork
they can intimidate novices and elude practiced chops without a cranberry chutney (I keep a
cooks looking for the perfect version. These stash of frozen cranberries to use when they’re
recipes are labeled “101,” and if they seem long, out of season). Because most of my Thanksgiving
it’s because I have included extra details that first course soups and salads feature seasonal
even old hands can learn from. ingredients, I use them often during cool
Certain Thanksgiving foods have achieved months. No matter what the season, hardly a
almost religious significance, and must be party goes by without one of the appetizers
served at that meal on the fourth Thursday of from this book. And it certainly doesn’t have to
every November. While researching recipes for be Thanksgiving to make apple pie!
my classes, I became fascinated with how these I have been gathering these recipes for this
particular foods became so important. These book for years, listening to countless American
are discussed in the sections titled, “It Isn’t home cooks tell me about the fun (and fear)
Thanksgiving Without . . .” You’ll fi nd they experience while getting the big meal on
information on classics like cranberries, the table. I promised them I would write a
pumpkin, gelatin salads, and, of course, turkey. practical guide on this beloved holiday. Many of
What I hear most from my students is that these recipes are downright simple, but that
they are desperate for help in organizing the doesn’t make them any less delicious.
meal. So, in addition to a host of tips, I’ve Thanksgiving 101 is a culinary insurance policy
provided suggestions for complete menus with to having the best Turkey Day ever.
preparation and cooking timetables. (I can just Happy Thanksgiving!

2 Thanksgiving 101
 J
Getting It Together

E veryone loves Thanksgiving. But even

experienced cooks look at making
Thanksgiving dinner with a mixture of
trepidation and nostalgia. After all, it has
probably been 364 days since the last time they
on the table at the same time. Plot it out on
paper, and you’ll be one giant step closer to
serving a perfect meal. A written plan is
reassuring—you can look it over as many times
as you want to check and double-check, or
were asked to make such a huge meal. Some of make the changes that will inevitably occur.
those dishes are made on Thanksgiving and
Thanksgiving only, so it is like starting from
scratch. Someone once asked a famous
Lists, Lists, and More Lists
Wagnerian soprano how she performed her
long, grueling roles night after night. “No Thanksgiving Rule Number One
problem,” she modestly replied. “All you need is
There are never too many lists. And nothing
a good pair of shoes.” When people ask me how
feels better than seeing every item checked off.
I pull off my Thanksgiving dinners, I know
You will need the following lists:
how that singer felt. I want to say, “All you need
is a good pair of shoes . . . and a plan!” • Guest List: Invite your guests, by mail or
The happiest Thanksgiving cook is the most by phone, at least three weeks ahead. As
organized. No one ever sees the pile of lists that soon as possible, try to get your friends to
guides me through the organization and notify you if they are bringing guests. I
preparation of the meal. It’s not enough just to always plan on one last-minute phone call
want to serve a delicious holiday dinner—you’d from someone saying, “I just found out that
better think about how to get all of that food so-and-so at the office has nowhere to go.

3
 Can I bring him along?” Especially for large (cheese, eggs, milk, cream, and butter),
gatherings, keep track of RSVPs. canned goods, and spices. When you write
Unfortunately, a confirmed RSVP doesn’t down the groceries you need, try to orga-
mean much these days, and you may want nize them by category (or, if you are really
to call the night before to confirm your familiar with your market, by aisle), so you
guest’s attendance, and how many will be don’t have to run all over the store. If
in the party. When necessary, include necessary, order your turkey and other meat
directions to your house with the invitation. or seafood items.
The last grocery list is for Tuesday or
• Grocery Lists: You should have at least
Wednesday’s shopping, which will include
three grocery lists and a beverage list. Spread
only fresh turkey, vegetables, and fruit, and
out the shopping over a couple of weeks
maybe a couple of extra bags of ice. If you
so you’re not one more person standing in
can, purchase your produce at a
line at the supermarket with an overflowing
greengrocer—the line will be shorter and
cart. Buy as many nonperishables as
the produce better than at most
possible before that final Tuesday or
supermarkets.
Wednesday. That way, you’ll only need a
In some states that sell alcohol at grocery
quick trip to the market to pick up the
stores, your beverage list can be part of the
fresh items. My dream is to be able to
regular shopping list. Otherwise, make a
stand in the Express lane on Thanksgiving
separate list for the liquor store. Don’t forget
Eve, and I have accomplished this more
mixers and nonalcoholic beverages and any
than once.
garnishes like celery for the Bloody Marys.
The first grocery list should be
nonperishables that can be purchased two • Prep Lists: There are a lot of cooking
or three weeks ahead of the dinner. You chores that can be done well ahead of time.
may not know exactly how many people are Look at your menu for potential freezable
coming yet, but you can get candles, coffee items. I am not a big freezer person, mainly
filters, guest towels, cocktail napkins, because I don’t have a large freezer, but I do
camera film or fresh digital camera freeze a few quarts of homemade turkey
batteries, paper towels, guest soap, stock, and maybe some piecrusts.
aluminum foil, plastic wrap, bathroom Be realistic about how much time it will
tissue, and other incidentals. Play it safe and take for you to make each dish. Only you
buy staples like flour, sugar, salt, and such. know how fast you can chop. Also, schedule
Buy coffee and put it in the freezer. If you in cleaning time. It is much easier to clean
are barbecuing your turkey, put charcoal or as you go along than to wait until the piles
propane gas on this list. of utensils are so high you can’t stand it
The second grocery list is for the week anymore.
before the meal. By now (hopefully) your • Utensil List: French chefs call this a
guest list is confirmed. You know what your batterie de cuisine. It means all the pots,
menu is, and what groceries you’ll need. pans, basters, spoons, roasting racks,
Buy all the produce that will keep for a coffeemakers, measuring cups, rolling pins,
week (onions, garlic, potatoes, yams, pie pans, and other things that you’ll need
carrots, lemons, and limes), dairy items to get the dinner on the table. Check all of

4 Thanksgiving 101
 the recipes and be sure that you have centerpiece to be sure everything will fit. If
everything you need. If a recipe calls for a it doesn’t, figure out where you will put the
9 × 13-inch baking dish and yours is a excess. If you don’t have enough chairs,
different size, you can either buy the right borrow them from a friend or rent them. If
pan or throw caution to the wind and hope you need to move any furniture to make
that the recipe turns out all right in your room, take note and add it to another “To
pan. I vote for buying the new dish. I have Do” list.
made every effort to use pots and pans that If you plan to have a buffet, you may
can be found in the average home. Where want to put the plates and eating utensils
necessary, unusual equipment is listed after on a separate sideboard or table. If you have
the ingredients in a recipe. a large crowd, pull the table away from the
Be sure to have plenty of large self- wall, if necessary. Make two stacks of plates
sealing plastic bags on hand. Whenever and place them on opposite sides of the
possible, store prepared food in the plastic table. Now there can be two lines, as guests
bags instead of bowls. You’ll save lots of can serve themselves from both sides. Put
refrigerator space that way. two serving utensils in each bowl so guests
can serve themselves faster. To save space, roll
• Tableware List: Check to see that you
the eating utensils in napkins and tie with
have all of the serving dishes and utensils
ribbons, then stack them in a basket. Place
you need. Many items may be stored away;
the basket at the opposite end of the buffet,
take them out and wash them. To keep all
so guests don’t have to juggle the utensils
of those bowls and platters straight, list
while they are trying to fill their plates.
what food goes in what dish, and identify
the utensils with sticky notes. This way, in • The Bill of Fare: It may sound compulsive,
the heat of the battle, when a helper asks, but I always tape the complete menu,
“What dish do the mashed potatoes go including beverages and appetizers, on the
into?” you can reply, “The blue one with refrigerator door to double-check that
the ‘mashed potatoes’ sticker,” not “I don’t everything makes it out to the table. More
remember!” If there is silver to be polished than once, after the meal, I have found a
or linens to be washed and pressed, bowl of cranberry sauce hidden in the
schedule those jobs well ahead of time. refrigerator (and my guests were too polite
If you don’t have enough china and to say, “How chic! No cranberry sauce!” to
silver, try to avoid paper plates and plastic remind me).
utensils. Inexpensive dishes and silverware
can be found at wholesale clubs, or borrow
Your Menu and You
them from friends and family. You may not
have a matching set, but at least no one’s There are many variables that make a menu the
gravy will seep through his plate. Along the right one. Sure, personal taste comes into play,
same lines, try to use real napkins, not but more important are the logistics. Do you
paper ones—it’s a festive holiday. have enough refrigerator space? Do you have
Everything has its place, but even more only one oven? How big is it? How many people
so at Thanksgiving. Draw a “map” of the can you really seat, even with the card table?
table that includes the serving dishes and Brutally assess your cooking skills. Some people

Getting It Together 5
are entranced by what they see on television my friend Monica’s tactic. She decided that she
cooking shows (or read in cookbooks), and wasn’t going to let the football schedule call
overdo it. Instead of enjoying your guests, you the shots. So, she roasted a turkey, but only
see a lot of your kitchen. served it with fixings for fresh sliced turkey
Most of the recipes in this book are for eight sandwiches. This tactic went over so well, it has
to twelve servings. A serving is an average-sized become her family’s annual Thanksgiving
portion. I can’t say “Serves Eight,” because if meal.
your eight guests have big appetites, and take
big spoonfuls, the eight servings become four.
With the exception of the desserts, all the Help!
recipes can be multiplied or divided to fit your
guest count. Desserts have to be prepared by Another Thanksgiving Rule
the unit—you wouldn’t bake half a pie to get Let your friends help you . . . kinda.
four extra servings. There are times when being a control freak
If you are new to the Thanksgiving routine, can come in handy . . . like on the fourth
concentrate on one or two dishes (like turkey Thursday of November. The first few times I
and gravy) and learn to do them well. Let made Thanksgiving, people asked if they could
someone else bring side dishes and desserts or bring something, and I was glad to let them
pick them up at a takeout place. Next year, pitch in. But I couldn’t help noticing a few
expand your repertoire to cranberry sauce and recurring trends. One friend always brought
pumpkin pie. Pretty soon, you’ll be able to something different than he said he would. If
execute the entire menu. he said he’d bring cranberry sauce, he’d bring a
Being a slave to fashion is bad enough, but green bean bake . . . but only when I already
being a slave to the traditional Thanksgiving had four other vegetable side dishes, and didn’t
menu is worse. You don’t have to serve the make cranberry sauce. Another friend
exact same meal that Mom made. Design a considered it a crime to follow a recipe, and
balanced meal with different colors, textures, always got “creative” with her contribution.
and flavors. If you think there are too many The problem was that her experiments rarely
sweet things or starches on the menu, scratch turned out as expected. (Like the year she
one off and replace it with something else. In substituted honey for sugar in the pumpkin pie
my opinion, most people just serve too much and the filling wouldn’t set.) I considered
food at this meal. Thanksgiving should be having a sampler made saying “No More
about visiting with loved ones over a special Potlucks . . . Ever!” to hang in the kitchen. It’s
feast, not about how much turkey you can eat much better to be in complete charge of the
in twenty minutes because the football game is menu.
about to come on. It’s not that I’m ungrateful, it’s just that
And speaking of football, my heart goes out there are other ways my friends can help. My
to you cooks whose meal has to vie for favorite friend is the one who comes over on
attention with the game. When people come to Wednesday night to keep me company while I
my house for Thanksgiving, they come for a prep. Even if he isn’t a good cook, he can run to
great meal and company, and the television the store if I left something off the list, clean up
never gets turned on except, when necessary, to the dirty dishes, pour us a glass of wine, order
keep the kids occupied. Perhaps you should try pizza (Who has time to make dinner?), set the

6 Thanksgiving 101
dining room for the big dinner. . . . Of course, what everyone was going to bring, and that it
on Thanksgiving Day, anyone who wants to was all going to fit together. My friends were
wash dishes is my friend for life. relieved because they didn’t have to fret about
If you must have a potluck, here’s a strategy what they were going to bring.
that has worked for me. I designed my menu When the going gets rough, remember that
from clipped newspaper, magazine, and at the first Thanksgiving, only six women
cookbook recipes, and assigned them according prepared all the food for ninety-one Native
to the person’s cooking skills, along with Americans and fifty-six settlers, and that the
instructions for multiplying the recipe for a party lasted three days.
certain number of servings. I knew exactly

The Kids’ Table

When kids are a part of your Thanksgiving the bodies. (Some craft stores also sell
guest list, be sure you have activities that inexpensive small, real feathers that can be
don’t just keep them busy but let them used.)
contribute to the festivities. When you’ve set up a kids’ table, make it
My young friends love helping in the something special. Don’t make them feel like
kitchen. Sometimes I let them do easy chores they’re in Siberia. Once, when up in the
like peeling vegetables or whipping cream. country, we sent the youngsters out to collect
But they really love it when they can create the best-looking autumn leaves. When they
something to share with the whole group. returned, they washed and dried the
The day before the dinner, bake turkey- gathered leaves well. I covered the kids’ table
shaped cookies. Set up a corner in the with a piece of white butcher paper, and they
kitchen with icing and colored sugar, and let glued the leaves all over the paper as a
the kids decorate the cookies to serve with tablecloth. It looked so great that the adults
coffee for dessert. were envious. Another time, we simply
If there is just too much activity in the stenciled outlines of turkeys all over the
kitchen for small bodies to be around, I butcher paper, and put out crayons to color
provide crayons, construction paper, paste, the turkeys during dinner.
and scissors in another area for them to Of course, there’s the time-honored
create place cards. I’ll get them going by tradition of the touch football game to help
making turkey-shaped cutouts—it’s their job the kids let off steam. But I wonder if it’s
to cut out and paste colorful paper feathers really to keep the kids occupied or to help
onto the tails and write the guests’ names on the adults burn off calories?

Getting It Together 7
 carve a hole in the center). Another simple
Setting the Scene
centerpiece is a floating candle in a glass bowl,
I know caterer types that seem to have hot-glue with cranberries added to the water. Sometimes
guns at the ready. Not me. I prefer to spend my I do nothing more complicated than a basket
creative time in the kitchen. When it comes filled with autumn foods (persimmons, grapes,
time to decorate, I subscribe to the philosophy apples, and nuts), entwined with a length of
“less is more.” French wired ribbon. The food can be eaten at
You can do very simple things that say the end of the dinner, so it doesn’t go to waste.
“Thanksgiving.” Roll up napkins with an If you wish, substitute brightly colored gourds
autumn leaf around the center, and tie with a and dried corn for the fruit. I often steal items
piece of raffia straw. Put a foil-wrapped from this centerpiece to decorate the turkey
chocolate turkey at each place setting. One of platter.
my favorite settings wasn’t especially elegant, At formal table settings, place cards are
but it was fun. Each setting had a lighted appropriate, and they look great taped to the
kitschy candle (Pilgrims, Indians, and turkeys) side of a mini-pumpkin at each plate. I have
that I had collected from different candle stores. also baked large turkey- or leaf-shaped cookies
They looked great, all grinning and blazing and decorated them with my guests’ names
away. And everyone took his candle home. inscribed in icing. They rarely get eaten that
Remember that centerpieces for a dining evening because people like to take them
table must be low enough for people to see over. home as a memento. (To each his own. I eat
Pumpkins are a great start. Large, hollowed-out mine.) If you want to try this, just use your
ones can serve as vases. Mini-pumpkins or favorite rolled sugar or gingerbread cookie
apples can hold candles (remove the stem and recipe.

Pilgrim’s Progress
The Thanksgiving Story

In the middle of all the planning and Thanksgiving “was a party, and a three-day
festivities, keep in mind what Thanksgiving party, at that!”
is about. It’s not about football, or pumpkin The Puritans wanted to purify the Church
pie, or even turkey. The Pilgrims (aka of England of rituals that had their roots in
Puritans) used the feast as a celebration to Catholicism. They were driven from England
give thanks for the good in their lives, in by James I, and fled to Holland in 1608.
spite of the fact that it had been a very Twelve years later, tiring of Dutch customs
difficult year. But it was no solemn occasion. and language, they made the difficult
One professor of American history said that decision to immigrate to the New World,

8 Thanksgiving 101
where they could practice their own customs Turkies.” However, to the Puritans, turkey
and language. One hundred and two meant any kind of guinea fowl, which also
passengers made the sixty-six-day journey on roamed the wilds of the Atlantic coast, and
the Mayflower, landing in Provincetown we can’t be sure that our familiar turkey was
Harbor (not Plimouth Rock), on Cape Cod, on served. Venison was surely on the menu (the
November 21, 1620. Exactly one month later, Indian chief Massasoit sent braves into the
after exploring the area, they chose Plimouth woods who “killed five Deere which they
as the settling spot. brought to our Governour”), along with
By harvesttime the next year, forty-six of lobsters, clams, sea bass, corn, boiled
the original group had succumbed to scurvy pumpkin, watercress, leeks, and dried fruit.
or pneumonia. However, the autumn crop Corn cakes, fried in venison fat, were served
had been good, mainly due to the help of as the bread, as there was no wheat. It is
one Pawtuxet Indian, Squanto, who taught assumed that cranberries, an Indian favorite,
the settlers much about farming in their new would have been included, probably cooked
home. Squanto, who had been a slave in in maple syrup. As there were no cows, there
Spain and escaped to England, spoke English. could be no dairy products like butter, milk,
He had returned to his native village only six or cheese. Contrary to popular belief, the
months before the Puritans arrived. Puritans did drink alcohol, although they did
The Puritans were familiar with harvest not tolerate drunkenness, and quaffed a
festivals, which were common in England. So, strong beverage that probably resembled
it was a natural turn of events for Governor brandy.
William Bradford to declare a thanksgiving After the meal, a little exercise was in
feast. The exact date has never been order. Of course, football hadn’t been
established. According to Bradford’s own invented yet, but the Indians and Puritan
history, Of Plimouth Plantation, on September soldiers played other games. Marksmanship
18, he sent men to trade with the Indians. was exhibited with both the bow and arrow
The harvest was gathered after they and the musket, and athletic prowess with
returned. The first written mention of the footraces and jumping matches.
party was in a letter dated December 11. But The Thanksgiving feast did not become an
with all of the outdoor activities described annual event. The only other Thanksgiving
by the original sources, the event probably occurred in 1623, to celebrate the end of a
happened while the weather was still drought. Harvest festivals continued
reasonably warm. throughout the colonial period, but actual
As for the menu, we know that Bradford “thanksgivings” were saved for major events,
sent “four men fowling” to gather wild like the one in 1789 proclaimed by George
poultry for the feast. They returned with Washington to commemorate the new
ducks and geese and a “great store of wild Constitution. It was around this time that the

Getting It Together 9
 term “Pilgrim” came into use. The Puritans and diluted the effect of the later holiday,
referred to themselves as “First Settlers,” or moved the date to the third Thursday of that
“First Comers.” They eventually became year. The country responded bitterly, and a
known as the “Forefathers,” but during the lot of people took off the fourth Thursday
American revolution, “Pilgrim” became an anyway. The next year, emotions were even
alternative. higher. The only people who liked the
We have our modern holiday thanks to change were the merchants, who saw a
the dogged efforts of one woman, Sarah longer Christmas buying season. Finally, in
Josepha Hale, the influential editor of the December 1941, a joint resolution of
popular woman’s magazine Godey’s Lady’s Congress specified the fourth Thursday in
Book. With over 150,000 subscribers, Hale November (which is sometimes, but not
used her editorials to promote a national day always, the last Thursday) as Thanksgiving.
of Thanksgiving, and wrote letters to The first Thanksgiving Day parade was
presidents, governors, and other high-profile held in Philadelphia in 1923. It was sponsored
people. She espoused a day to “offer to God by Gimbels department store. Macy’s first
our tribute of joy and gratitude for the parade occurred the next year, in New York
blessings of the year.” The magazine did City. The first professional football game on
much to romanticize the Pilgrim as a Thanksgiving was played by the Detroit Lions
steadfast, hardworking, religious model of and the Chicago Bears in 1934.
American perseverance. After years of Thanksgiving doesn’t enjoy the same
grandstanding, she finally got the support of literary attention as Christmas. Few
President Abraham Lincoln, who declared Thanksgiving songs, movies, or books have
Thursday, November 23, 1863, a national established themselves like the Christmas
holiday. Over the years, Thanksgiving was classics “Jingle Bells,” It’s a Wonderful Life, and
always an excuse for unabashed feasting and A Visit from St. Nicholas. My favorite
fun. Staid New Englanders considered Thanksgiving story is “A Thanksgiving
Christmas a religious holiday, and hardly Visitor” by Truman Capote, and I don’t like to
“celebrated” it at all. It wasn’t until German let the holiday go by without playing my old
immigrants brought their customs to LP of Arlo Guthrie’s “Alice’s Restaurant.”
America in the late 1880s that Christmas got “Over the River and Through the Woods” just
a makeover. doesn’t stand up to Arlo. Also, the turkey-
Until 1941, it was up to each president to cooking scenes in the films Home for the
declare the holiday each year, which usually Holidays and Pieces of April are hilarious, but
took place on the last Thursday of November. don’t expect these movies to make you feel
In 1939, President Franklin D. Roosevelt, who like phoning your family.
felt Thanksgiving was too close to Christmas

10 Thanksgiving 101
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