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 Cambridge Library CoLLeCtion
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History
The books reissued in this series include accounts of historical events and
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of the past.

Travels in the United States, etc. During 1849 and 1850

Published in 1851, Lady Emmeline Stuart Wortley’s account of her travels through
the Americas during the mid nineteenth century represents an early example of
the travel writing genre. The United States was becoming an increasingly popular
tourist destination for Europeans at this time, and Lady Emmeline’s writings present
a quintessentially British impression of America and its people. This third and
final volume records her journeys through Panama to Lima, describing in detail
the architecture, climate, people and scenery of Peru, and her onward journey to
Kingston, Jamaica. Written in an engaging and conversational tone, the volumes are
both informative and entertaining, fulfilling the author’s aim to ‘amuse’ with ‘the
gossip of travel’.
Cambridge University Press has long been a pioneer in the reissuing of out-of-
print titles from its own backlist, producing digital reprints of books that are still
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Travels in the United
States, etc. During
1849 and 1850
Volume 3

E mmeline Stuart-Wortley
 C A m B r i D g E U n i V E r Si T y P r E S S

Cambridge, new york, melbourne, madrid, Cape Town, Singapore,

São Paolo, Delhi, Dubai, Tokyo

Published in the United States of America by Cambridge University Press, new york

www.cambridge.org
information on this title: www.cambridge.org/9781108003377

© in this compilation Cambridge University Press 2009

This edition first published 1851

This digitally printed version 2009

iSBn 978-1-108-00337-7 Paperback

This book reproduces the text of the original edition. The content and language reflect
the beliefs, practices and terminology of their time, and have not been updated.

Cambridge University Press wishes to make clear that the book, unless originally published
by Cambridge, is not being republished by, in association or collaboration with, or
with the endorsement or approval of, the original publisher or its successors in title.
 TRAVELS

THE UNITED STATES,

ETC.

DURING 1849 AND 1850.

BY THE

LADY EMMELLNE STITAKT WORTLEY.

IN THREE VOLUMES.

VOL. III.

LONDON:
RICHARD BENTLEY, NEW BURLINGTON STREET,
in ©tttmatg to Ifatx Jtflafestg.
1851.
 CONTENTS TO VOL. III.

CHAPTER I.
i

Monarchy and democracy.—England's treatment of her

colonies.—The greatness of America.—Her tendency to
propagandism.—Anecdote of a paroquet.—The pearl-
fishery at Panama.—The captain and his crew.—General
Rosas.—Beautifully scented woods in Panama.—The rose
fever.—Theatricals in Panama.—Hostility between Ame-
ricans and the natives of Panama.— Fair children in
Panama.—The would-be Englishwoman

CHAPTER II.

Intention to go to Lima.—Dinner to ex-cannibals.—

Theatricals in Panama.—Taboga.—The French tailoress.
—The "happy ship."—Roman Catholic procession on
GoodFriday.—Amischievous trick.—California thorough-
ly Americanized.—Californian adventurers and the steam-
boat agent.—The dead Negro.—British subjects buried
in Panama. — Tone of American papers in Panama.—
Spirit of enterprise of the Americans.—Old Panama.—
Reptiles and insects in Panama. — Morgan and his
bucaneers.—The pirates and the Spanish fleet.—Wealth
said to have been buried by the bucaneers.—American
love of intellectual progress . . . . . . 20
 CONTENTS.

CHAPTER III.
PAGE

The probable future of Panama. —South American

railroads projected. — Gold-seekers in Panama.—Large
importation of fruit-trees into California.—American im-
provements in Panama.—Alleged ill-treatment of emi-
grants by ship-owners.—The green mountain Yankee.—
The Indians and the damp gunpowder.—The government
of New Granada.—Its recent policy . . . .64

CHAPTER IV.

Arrival at Lima announced.—Embark on the " Bolivia."

—-View of Panama, from the sea.—Buenaventura.—The
river and city of Guayaquil.— Horses' dread of alliga-
tors.—Native boats and their varied freight.— Parrots,
macaws, and paroquets.—Ponchos.—The Guayaquil ladies.
— Grass hats. — The five productions of Guayaquil.—
Payta. — Its population. — Its salubrity. — Its market —
Scarcity of water at Payta.—Former wealth of that place 77

CHAPTER V.

Cherimoyas. — Lambayeque.— The Balsa.—Its use.—

Numerous reptiles and insects at Lambayeque.—Curious
mound-tombs.—Sepulchral curiosities found in them.—
Alleged imitation of them in Birmingham.—Huanchaco.
— The peremptory lady. — Description of Callao. — Its
destruction a century ago.—The frozen apple . . .99

CHAPTER VI.

Site of old Callao.—The shouting inquirer.—Approach

to Lima. — Absence of rain at that city.— The o-raceful
Peruvian costume. — The Poncho. — Male and female
 CONTENTS. V

PAGE
equestrians. — Arrival at Lima.—The aspect of the city.
—Miradors.—Multitude of asses in Lima.—London and
Lima.—Costumes of Lima ladies.—The bridge over the
Rimac.—Venders of cigars.—The Cordilleras . .113

CHAPTER VII.

The Great Plaza. — The cathedral of Lima. — The

streets of that city. — The silversmiths. — The bells of
Lima.—Charitable institutions.—Churches and convents.
—Handsome houses. — Palaces of the past.— Grotesque
paintings. — Well-appointed carriages. — The Limanian
beggar-woman. — Particularities of Lima ladies' dress.—
Their shoes.—M. and Madame B Their daughter 134

CHAPTER VIII.

Signal instance of the heroism of a lady.—The proces-

sion of the oracion.—A lottery in the Grand Plaza.—How
conducted.—Distinguished visitors.—Chorillos.—The sale
of "almas," or souls—The public museum. — Portraits
of the Spanish viceroys.—Mummies of Peruvian Incas.—
Beautiful stuffed birds.—Manco Capac.—Who were the
first Incas?—The children of the sun.—Progress in civili-
zation of old Peru . . . . . . 147

CHAPTER IX.

Manco Capac and his wife.—Their instruction of the

Peruvians —Old Peruvian roads.—Bull-fights at Lima.—
Mode of conducting them. — Spectators at them. — Li-
manian ladies.—Beautiful specimens of Peruvian art and
ingenuity.—Silver ornamented fruits.—Lima burial places.
—The Amancaes —The fiesta of St. John.—The valley
of Amancaes.—The flower of that name.—The streets of
Lima after the fiesta.—Concerts given by a French lady,
vi CONTENTS.
PAGE

—Fruits of Lima.—The Grenadilla.—-" Italia."—Custom

of washing plates by the lower orders in Lima.—The Gor-
gonian servant.—" Huacos" and other curiosities found in
Peruvian sepulchres.—The "Senorita."—A garden in the
suburbs.—Its numerous trees, shrubs, and flowers.—Ener-
vating climate of Lima . . . • • • .16/

CHAPTER X.
About to leave Lima.—The cathedral. — Fragile but
enduring buildings in Lima.—The reason why they are the
latter.—The town of San Domingo.—The choristers of
the cathedral.—The shrine of Santa Rosa.—The Inqui-
sition at Lima.—The cemetery.—Cemeteries in the United
States.—Lima mode of sepulture.—Remains of the Tem-
ple of the Sun.—Peruvian politics.—Disheartening news
from California.—Verses on Happiness.—Earthquake at
Lima.—The shoes of the ladies . . . . . 200

CHAPTER XL
The voyage from Peru to Panama. —Farewell to Lima.
—Guanacos.—The Rio lady in the omnibus.—The rail-
road begun.—Arrival at Callao.—Rodil's defence of Callao
described.—Polite attention of Captain W .—The
harbour of Callao.—The beauty of the Pacific.—Hand-
some appointments of the steamer.—The musical stewards.
—Mr. Beebe, the hatter, for California.—Arrival at Payta.
—The British Consul there.—Description of Payta.—
Treatment of Peru by the Spanish conquerors.—Insur-
rection of Tupac Amaru.—The Indians beyond Peru . 221

CHAPTER X I I .
Peru.—Her internal communication.—Her forts and
coast.— Peruvian agriculture.— Manufacture of Inland
Peru.— Commerce of Peru.— Her commodities. Her
 CONTENTS. Vll

PAGE
trade.—Her government.—Her religion.—Peruvian fer-
tility.—Mineral resources.—Animals.—Cattle.—The face
of the country.—The Andes.—Rivers and lakes of Peru.
—Her coasts. . . . . . . . . 244

CHAPTER XIII.
Departure from Peru.—On board the "New World."—
The nautical ladies.—Chimborazo and Cotopaxi.—The
volcanoes of the Cordillera.—Crater of Cotopaxi.—A
narrow escape.—Arrival at Panama.—An amateur con-
cert.—Departure from Panama.—Scene occasioned by a
dead mule.—Badness of the roads —Arrival at Cruces . 263

CHAPTER XIV.

The hotel at Cruces.—A felonious cat.—The New

Granadian gentleman. — Progress towards Chagres. —
Lightning, thunder, and rain.—Arrival at Chagres.—
The dead American. — Quarrels between Americans and
the natives of Panama. — Humboldt's estimate of the
Indians.—Incredulity of Californian emigrants.—Melan-
choly case of two returned Californians. — A beautiful
sun-set. — Arrival at Jamaica. — Kingston. —Descent of
General Lopez on Cuba.—Strange effect of it.—Reverses
of Jamaica planters.—The glories of Nature.—Crea-
tion's Praise, a poem 282
 NARRATIVE
or

TRAVELS IN THE UNITED STATES,

&c.

IN 1849-50.

CHAPTER I.
MONARCHY AND DEMOCRACY ENGLAND'S TREATMENT OF HER
COLONIES THE GREATNESS OF AMERICA HER TENDENCY
TO PROPAGANDISM ANECDOTE OF A PAROQUET THE PEARL-
FISHERY AT PANAMA THE CAPTAIN AND HIS CREW—GENE-
RAL ROSAS BEAUTIFULLY SCENTED WOODS IN PANAMA THE
ROSE FEVER THEATRICALS IN PANAMA HOSTILITY BE-
TWEEN AMERICANS AND THE NATIVES OF PANAMA FAIR
CHILDREN IN PANAMA THE WOULD-BE ENGLISHWOMAN.

NEW GRANADA, from accounts I have heard,

would not object much to giving up the Isthmus
to the United States, but France and England,
from various reasons, no doubt would ! Educa-
tion, and many other advantages, doubtless,
VOL. III. B
2 TRAVELS IN AMERICA.

would accrue to the people under the enlightened

rule of the Americans; but, after all, it seems
a republican government is not suited to these
South American nations : it becomes a tyranny
or a nullity with them. The genius, character,
and habits of the people tend towards monarchi-
cal institutions in general. Old Spain has left
her mark upon them; she trained all her colo-
nies in her own spirit; she deeply imbued them
with her own principles: this has grown with their
growth, and strengthened with their strength;
and though, when they threw off her yoke, and
asserted their national independence, the ex-
ample of the most flourishing and powerful
nation in this hemisphere was, as it were,
instinctively followed (as if the mere resemblance
in the form of government, without any simi-
larity in character, traditions, or habits of
thought, could effect equal results), yet the
people, it would appear, have generally retained
the impressions that the mother country sought
always consistently to give them.
In vain the letter is altered; the spirit is
still there. A monarchy herself, she educated
and trained her colonies in monarchical prin-
 ENGLAND AND HER COLONIES. 3

ciples, as did Portugal also ; and the consequence

is, that though by the overwhelming influence
of the example of the mightiest people of the
New World they mostly are republics in name,
it is in name only. Look at Mexico; look at
her eminently aristocratical church and army ;
see how in society counts and marquises re-
tain their titles to this very day, and how in a
thousand other things the real tendencies of the
people break forth. How differently does Eng-
land treat her colonies—with what care appa-
rently does she lead them, and teach them, and
tutor them to be republics in time. Monarchy
is a sort of distant vision—a myth to them :
they are seldom reminded of it; it is a shadow
and a name, and democracy seems the substance.
Monarchy is a rare and holiday visitor; demo-
cracy is their every-day comrade and friend: it
comes home to every man's bosom and business
there; it is with him in the market-place, with
him in the street, it is part of his every-day life,
it is with him in all his social intercourse; and
if in the settlers from the old country, habits
previously acquired and sentiments originally
instilled into them should retain some dominion
B 2
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