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CultureShock!
A Survival Guide to Customs and Etiquette

Munich Liz Smith

This 3rd edition published in 2011 by:
Marshall Cavendish Corporation
99 White Plains Road
Tarrytown, NY 10591-9001
www.marshallcavendish.us

FIrst published in 2003 by Times Media Private Limited; 2nd edition published in
2007 by Marshall Cavendish International (Asia) Private Limited.
Copyright © 2011, 2007 Marshall Cavendish International (Asia) Private Limited
All rights reserved

No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system

or transmitted, in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical,
photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior permission of
the copyright owner. Request for permission should be addressed to the
Publisher, Marshall Cavendish International (Asia) Private Limited, 1 New
Industrial Road, Singapore 536196. Tel: (65) 6213 9300, fax: (65) 6285 4871.
E-mail: [email protected]

The publisher makes no representation or warranties with respect to the

contents of this book, and specifically disclaims any implied warranties or
merchantability or fitness for any particular purpose, and shall in no events
be liable for any loss of profit or any other commercial damage, including but
not limited to special, incidental, consequential, or other damages.

Other Marshall Cavendish Offices:

Marshall Cavendish International (Asia) Private Limited. 1 New Industrial Road,
Singapore 536196  Marshall Cavendish International. PO Box 65829, London EC1P
1NY, UK  Marshall Cavendish International (Thailand) Co Ltd. 253 Asoke, 12th
Flr, Sukhumvit 21 Road, Klongtoey Nua, Wattana, Bangkok 10110, Thailand 
Marshall Cavendish (Malaysia) Sdn Bhd, Times Subang, Lot 46, Subang Hi-Tech
Industrial Park, Batu Tiga, 40000 Shah Alam, Selangor Darul Ehsan, Malaysia

Marshall Cavendish is a trademark of Times Publishing Limited

ISBN: 978-0-7614-5881-4

Please contact the publisher for the Library of Congress catalogue number

Printed in Singapore by Times Printers Pte Ltd

Photo Credits:
All black and white photos by the author except page 184 (Photolibrary).
Colour photos: pages b–c, i, j–k (Getty Images); a, d–e, f–g, h, i, l, m, n–o, p
(Photolibrary).  Cover photo: Getty Image

Munich subway map: Wikimedia Commons/ Maximilian Dörrbecker

(Chumwa)

All illustrations by TRIGG

 ABOUT THE SERIES
Culture shock is a state of disorientation that can come over
anyone who has been thrust into unknown surroundings, away
from one’s comfort zone. CultureShock! is a series of trusted
and reputed guides which has, for decades, been helping
expatriates and long-term visitors to cushion the impact of
culture shock whenever they move to a new country.
Written by people who have lived in the country and
experienced culture shock themselves, the authors share all the
information necessary for anyone to cope with these feelings
of disorientation more effectively. The guides are written in a
style that is easy to read and covers a range of topics that will
arm readers with enough advice, hints and tips to make their
lives as normal as possible again.
Each book is structured in the same manner. It begins
with the first impressions that visitors will have of that city or
country. To understand a culture, one must first understand the
people—where they came from, who they are, the values and
traditions they live by, as well as their customs and etiquette.
This is covered in the first half of the book.
Then on with the practical aspects—how to settle in with
the greatest of ease. Authors walk readers through topics
such as how to find accommodation, get the utilities and
telecommunications up and running, enrol the children in
school and keep in the pink of health. But that’s not all. Once
the essentials are out of the way, venture out and try the food,
enjoy more of the culture and travel to other areas. Then be
immersed in the language of the country before discovering
more about the business side of things.
To round off, snippets of basic information are offered
before readers are ‘tested’ on customs and etiquette of the
country. Useful words and phrases, a comprehensive resource
guide and list of books for further research are also included
for easy reference.
 CONTENTS
Acknowledgements vi Chapter 5
Dedication vii Settling In 54
Map of Germany viii
Munich, An International
Map of Munich ix City 55
Munich Subway Map x A Safe City 55
Honesty is the Best Policy 56
Chapter 1 Temporary Accommodation 57
First Impressions 1 Advantages of Renting 64
Munich at First Glance 2 House Rules 66
Legal Requirements 71
Chapter 2 Relocating Pets 72
Overview of Land and Setting Priorities 74
History 9 The Search Ends 77
Birth of Munich 10 Letting Agents 79
The Wittelsbach Dynasty 11 Relocation Agencies 79
Flourishing Arts and Culture 14 Settling In 81
A New Era for Munich 17 Waste Recycling 84
Hitler’s Munich 17 Services 87
Post-World War II 18 Public Phone Booths 90
Rebirth of Munich 20 Dealing with Landlords 91
Centre of Technology 20 Buying a Place of Your Own 93
Snapshots of Residential Munich 22 Council Charges 95
Car Parking 95
Chapter 3 Shops and Services 97
People of Munich 34 Publications 97
Common Perceptions 35 Newspapers 99
Fashion 37 Television 101
Bavarian Society 39 Radio 102
Internet 103
Chapter 4 Videos and Dvds 105
Socialising with Locals 40 Post office 105
Making Friends 41 Travelling by Rail 107
Women’s Clubs 43 Buses, Trams and Taxis 110
Be a Volunteer 44 Lost Property 111
Help Lines 46 Biking in Munich 112
Beer Gardens—The Car Travel 116
Social Equalisers 47 Car Sharing 119
Foreign Communities 47 The Roads Around Munich 123
Gay and Proud 49 Road Signs 124
Cycle of Life 49
Banking 125 Olympiapark 216
Medical Care 129 Sports for Everyone 219
German School System 137 Festivals and Celebrations 236
International Schools 143
Libraries 145 Chapter 8

Entertaining Children 146 Learning the

Shopping, Munich Style 149 Language 256

Secondhand Shops 159 Learning the Language 257

Refunds 168 Trying to be a Local 261
Antiquitäten 171
Religions in Munich 172 Chapter 9
Off to Work 263

Chapter 6 Work Permits 264

Food and Job Hunting 265
Entertainment 176
Taxation 267
Food and Drink 177 Insurance 269
Bavarian Cuisine 179 Labour Rights 270
Restaurants and Cafés 183 Child Benefits 271
Bars 190 Trade Unions 272
Beer Gardens 192 Chamber of Trade and
Industry—IHK 273

Chapter 7 Corporate Cultures 273

Enjoying the Bavarian
Culture 197 Chapter 10
Fast Facts
Vacation Spots Nearby 198
About Munich 275
Munich’s Cultural Heritage 198
Famous People 278
Musical Legacy 200
World-Class Theatres 201
Culture Quiz 282
Marching to the Brass Bands 203
Do’s and Don’ts 290
Museums 204
Glossary 293
Art Galleries 205
Resource Guide 297
Cinemas 208
Further Reading 304
Partying through the Night 209
About the Author 307
Parks and Wildlife 211
Index 308
Celebrating Nature 213
vi ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
With grateful thanks for their help and friendship, Uta Hacker
(Author) for the intial push! Doris Guntner for helping us
settle in. Sarah Keenan and Theodora Quraeshi for the fun
investigative outings. Edwin Court for his experiences and
expertise. Elizabeth Boyd for proof-reading and help in every
way, and to Meike Maenecke. Not forgetting the members of
the International Women’s Club of Munich past and present,
and to my husband John, for his technical wizardry.

Liz Smith
 DEDICATION vii

To my wonderful ever-expanding family, scattered

across the world.
 viii MAP OF GERMANY

DENMARK BALTIC SEA

NORTH
SEA

POLAND
NETHERLANDS

GERMANY

BELGIUM

LUXEMBOURG CZECH
REPUBLIC

FRANCE

• MUNICH
AUSTRIA

SWITZERLAND

ITALY
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 Prinzr
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• Hauptbahnhof Station
• Nationaltheater
Maxi
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• Frauenkirche sse

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• Marienplatz

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MAP OF MUNICH

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MUNICH SUBWAY MAP
 FIRST IMPRESSIONS

CHAPTER 1

‘Schau mer amoi, dann seng ma scho...’

‘Let’s wait and see, then we’ll see.’
Used when Bavarians want to end a conversation with
differing opinions and the outcome will be revealed in the
distant future.
– A popular German saying
2 CultureShock! Munich

MUNICH AT FIRST GLANCE

What does Munich mean to you? Do you think of it being
an alpine city set on a mountain slope? Actually it is mostly
flat. Do you think of beer being consumed in vast quantities?
Well, it is regarded as the beer capital of Germany, possibly
the world, and yes, during the annual Oktoberfest, vast
quantities are consumed. Do you imagine men in Lederhosen
(leather trousers) and women in Dirndls (a kind of pinafore
cut very low)? They can certainly be seen dressed in this
manner, and more so in summer at their street festivals and
at Oktoberfest.
The first glimpse of a new city is often from the pages
of guide books and maps. All cities sparkle in those glossy
pictures, taken from advantageous angles, but a map can
give a better clue to a city’s history and progress. A glance
at Munich’s map soon shows you that it is an old city with
a small, clearly defined, circular centre, dissected by small
streets, from which radiate broad avenues. All this is encircled
by another circular road, well within the city limits and about
2 km from the centre. About 10 km from the centre is a
wide motorway, not yet circular as the southern section is
missing but it does divert traffic from far away places around
the congested urban areas. A train network is also evident,
which has 442 km (275 miles) of inner-urban lines and 86
km (53 miles) of underground lines, so for those living in the
city centre a car isn’t a necessity.
 First Impressions 3

Flying in to Munich airport, many people are struck by

the orderliness of the countryside. The fields are rectangular,
with the various colours of crops defining the edges rather
than hedges. The rivers, which defy regularity, can be picked
out by the attendant trees which trace dark, meandering
lines through the chequered countryside. At first, the
narrow country roads are barely visible, but as the plane
descends for landing, you can pick out the extensive, white
farm buildings, the agricultural wealth of the area, the
clustering hamlets and the different shaped steeples of the
village churches.
The airport has two terminals that are modern, spacious
and shiny clean structures of glass and metal with a high
arched roof covering the connecting courtyard, and shops
and restaurants a plenty in both areas. Announcements
are in both German and English and there are illustrated
symbols for buses, trains and shops negating the need for any
language, as well as plenty of information desks. The old train
ticket machines are a mystery for many newcomers, even
for Germans, but these are being replaced by touch screens
where you can select many different languages. These also
accept credit cards, though they don’t select which is the
cheapest ticket! Most of the larger stations also have manned
information desks where you can buy tickets. Whether
travelling to town by road or rail from the airport, there is
an impression of space, and the gaily flapping Munich flags
outside the airport add a cheery note. For about six weeks
in winter there is a huge illuminated Christmas tree and in
summer, the uncultivated areas are aglow with dandelions—
flowers that are almost a national symbol in Bavaria.
If choosing to hire a car rather than take the S-Bahn
(suburban metro railway), train or taxi, be sure that you
know the route of your journey and how everything operates
before venturing from the airport, as there are no lay-bys or
motorway services to pull into between the airport and town.
I found this to my cost the first time I hired a car alone at
the airport. To leave the car park, a ticket must be fed into
a slot to raise the barrier, the steep slope negotiated and a
gap found in the oncoming traffic, which for me was on the
4 CultureShock! Munich

wrong side of the road. I couldn’t get the window to close,

though I had checked the windscreen wipers and headlights,
both necessary on a dull February morning. I had to drive
25 km (15.5 miles) with the window open before I could
stop—to find that with this model of car the switches had to
be lifted up from below.
The first impressive structure to be seen on the drive in
to Munich from the north is the football arena, set right next
to the motorway, which at this point has six lanes in either
direction. It is huge and at first looks like an enormous,
quilted, silver, inflatable rubber ring. It is even more
impressive at night if one of the resident teams is using it,
as it is then illuminated in either red or blue, depending on
the team. It is like something from outer space!
Soon the motorway is down to two lanes as vehicles
turn off towards Austria, Italy, Switzerland, France and
destinations beyond. If you are heading towards western
Munich, the road passes more spectacular sights: some of
the tallest glass skyscrapers in Munich, the futuristic BMW
museum, the Olympic tower and the silver tiled canopies
that cover some of Olympiapark where the 1972 Olympic
Games were held. It all looks superb!
One soon realises why people say, “It’s a lovely place!”
On my first trip in to the city I was surprised how soon we
could walk around the centre and asked my husband, “Is
this all there is? Where’s the rest of it?” The beautiful centre
can be walked round in less than an hour, though that
barely scratches the surface of what Munich has to offer. A
friend who visited recently was impressed as she found it
“so clean, and there are no yobs!” Some cities may have a
few disreputable youths loitering around the centre but not
Munich. There are many cameras monitoring the behaviour
in the streets, and if there is any trouble, the police will be
there before you know it.
Students can finish school when they are sixteen, but
most of these then take an apprenticeship. The students
who continue with their academic studies take their end
of school exams at the age of 19 and it is usual for them to
complete their first degree at 27, or even 30, so the student
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