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 Copyright

Copyright © 2010 by Mark Pendergrast

Introduction to the New Edition copyright © 2019 by Mark
Pendergrast
Cover design by Ann Kirchner
Cover image: Cultura Creative / Gallery Stock
Cover copyright © 2019 Hachette Book Group, Inc.

Hachette Book Group supports the right to free expression and the
value of copyright. The purpose of copyright is to encourage writers
and artists to produce the creative works that enrich our culture.

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permission is a theft of the author’s intellectual property. If you
would like permission to use material from the book (other than for
review purposes), please contact [email protected]. Thank
you for your support of the author’s rights.

Basic Books
Hachette Book Group
1290 Avenue of the Americas, New York, NY 10104
www.basicbooks.com

First Edition: May 1999

Third Trade Paperback Edition: July 2019

Published by Basic Books, an imprint of Perseus Books, LLC, a

subsidiary of Hachette Book Group, Inc. The Basic Books name and
logo is a trademark of the Hachette Book Group.

The publisher is not responsible for websites (or their content) that
are not owned by the publisher.
The Hachette Speakers Bureau provides a wide range of authors for
speaking events. To find out more, go to
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Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data:

Pendergrast, Mark.
Uncommon grounds : the history of coffee and how it transformed
our world / Mark Pendergrast.—Rev. ed.
p. cm.
Includes bibliographical references and index.
ISBN 978-0-465-01836-9 (alk. paper)
1. Coffee—History. 2. Coffee industry—History. I. Title.
TX415.P45 2010
338.1’7373—dc22
2010014683

ISBNs: 978-0-465-03631-8 (hardcover), 978-1-541-64642-1 (ebook),

978-1-5416-9938-0 (2019 paperback)

E3-20190524-JV-NF-ORI
 CONTENTS

Cover
Title Page
Copyright
Dedication
Epigraph
Prologue: The Oriflama Harvest
Introduction: Puddle Water or Panacea?
Introduction to the New Edition
Map

PART ONE
SEEDS OF CONQUEST

1 Coffee Colonizes the World

2 The Coffee Kingdoms
3 The American Drink
4 The Great Coffee Wars of the Gilded Age
5 Hermann Sielcken and Brazilian Valorization
6 The Drug Drink

PART TWO
CANNING THE BUZZ
7 Growing Pains
8 Making the World Safe for Coffee
9 Selling an Image in the Jazz Age
10 Burning Beans, Starving Campesinos
11 Showboating the Depression
12 Cuppa Joe

PART THREE
BITTER BREWS

13 Coffee Witch Hunts and Instant Nongratification

14 Robusta Triumphant

PART FOUR
ROMANCING THE BEAN

15 A Scattered Band of Fanatics

16 The Black Frost
17 The Specialty Revolution
18 The Starbucks Experience
19 Final Grounds

Photos
Acknowledgments
Discover More
About the Author
Appendix: How to Brew the Perfect Cup
Notes on Sources
List of Interviews
Illustration Credits
Praise for Uncommon Grounds
Index
To the memories of Alfred
Peet (1920–2007), coffee
curmudgeon supreme,
and Ernesto Illy (1925–
2008), espresso master
Explore book giveaways, sneak peeks, deals, and more.

Tap here to learn more.

This detailed engraving was one of the first accurate portrayals of the exotic coffee plant,
published in 1716 in Voyage de l’Arabie Heureuse
 The voodoo priest and all his powders were as nothing compared to
espresso, cappuccino, and mocha, which are stronger than all the religions
of the world combined, and perhaps stronger than the human soul itself.
—Mark Helprin, Memoir from Antproof Case (1995)

The smell of roasting coffee hit me like a waft of spice.… It was a smell
halfway between mouth-watering and eye-watering, a smell as dark as
burning pitch; a bitter, black, beguiling perfume that caught at the back of
the throat, filling the nostrils and the brain. A man could become addicted
to that smell, as quick as any opium.
—Anthony Capella, The Various Flavors of Coffee (2008)
 PROLOGUE

The Oriflama Harvest

San Marcos region, Guatemala. Picking coffee berries (known as

cherries) for the first time, I struggle to keep my balance on the
precipitous hillside. My basket, or canasta, is tied around my waist.
As Herman, my caporal (supervisor), requested, I try to pick only the
rich red cherries, but sometimes I accidentally knock loose a green
one. I’ll have to sort them later.
I pop the skin of a ripe coffee cherry open in my mouth and savor
the sweet mucilage. It takes a bit of tongue work to get down to the
tough-skinned parchment protecting each bean. Like peanuts, coffee
beans usually grow in facing pairs. Spitting out the parchment, I
finally get the two beans, which are covered by a diaphanous silver
skin. In some cases where the soil lacks sufficient boron, I might
have found only one bean, called a peaberry, considered by some to
possess a slightly more concentrated taste. I spit out the seeds, too
hard to chew.
I hear other harvesters—whole families of them—chatting and
singing in Spanish. This is a happy time, when the year’s hard work
of pruning, fertilizing, weeding, tending, and repairing roads and
water channels comes down to ripe coffee. I sing a song with a few
Spanish phrases: mi amor, mi corazón.
When I stop, I hear giggles and applause. Unwittingly, I have
attracted a group of kids, who now wander off to resume picking or
pestering their parents. Children begin helping with the harvest
when they are seven or eight. Though many campesinos keep their
children out of school at other times for other reasons, it’s no
coincidence that school vacation in Guatemala coincides with the
coffee harvest.
I am 4,500 feet above sea level on Oriflama, the coffee finca
(plantation) owned by Betty Hannstein Adams. Betty’s grandfather,
Bernhard Hannstein (“Don Bernardo”), arrived in Guatemala over a
hundred years ago, one of many German immigrants who pioneered
the country’s coffee production. Oriflama, which contains over four
hundred acres, is half of the original farm, which was called La Paz.
Most of the coffee trees are caturra and catuai, hybrids that are
easier to harvest because they are shorter and more compact than
the older bourbon variety. Still, I have to bend some branches down
to get at them. After half an hour I have picked half a canasta,
about twelve pounds of cherries that, after processing to remove the
pulp, mucilage, and parchment, will produce two pounds of green
coffee beans. When roasted, they will lose as much as 20 percent
more in weight. Still, I have picked enough to make several pots of
fine coffee. I’m feeling pretty proud until Herman, who stands just
over five feet and weighs a little over one hundred pounds, shows
up with a full canasta and gently chides me for being so slow.
The farm is beautiful, covered with the green, glossy-leafed
coffee trees, prehistoric tree ferns and Spanish daggers along the
roadside (to prevent erosion), rolling hills, invisible harvesters
calling, children laughing, birds chirruping, big shade trees dappling
hillsides, springs and streams. As in other high-altitude coffee-
growing areas, the temperature never strays far from 75°F.
In the distance I can see the volcano, Santa María, and the
smoke from the smaller cone, Santiago, where in 1902 a side
eruption exploded, burying Oriflama under a foot of ash and killing
all the songbirds. “Oh God, what a sight,” wrote Betty’s grandmother,
Ida Hannstein, soon after. “As far as the eye could see everything
was blue and gray and dead, like a mammoth cemetery.”
It is difficult to imagine that scene now. The nitrogen-fixing shade
trees—inga, poro, and others—along with the groves of cypresses
and oaks and the macadamia trees grown to diversify output,
provide a much-needed habitat for migratory birds. At breakfast I
had melon, cream, and honey that came from the plantation; also
black beans, rice, and of course, coffee.
By 4:00 P.M. the harvest day is over, and everyone brings bulging
bags of coffee cherries to the beneficio (processing plant) to be
weighed. In other parts of Guatemala, the Mayan Indians are the
primary harvesters, but here they are local ladinos, whose blood
combines an Indian and Spanish heritage. They are all very small,
probably owing to their ancestors’ chronic malnutrition. Many wear
secondhand American T-shirts that appear incongruous here, one
from the Kennedy Space Center.
Tiny women carry amazingly large bags, twice their eighty-pound
weight. Some of the women carry babies in slings around front. A
good adult picker can harvest over two hundred pounds of cherries
and earn $8 a day, more than twice the Guatemalan minimum daily
wage.
In Guatemala, the contrast between poverty and wealth is stark.
Land distribution is lopsided, and those who perform the most
difficult labor do not reap the profits. Yet there is no quick fix to the
inequities built into the economic system, nor any viable alternatives
to coffee as a crop on these mountainsides. The workers are in
many ways more content and fulfilled than their counterparts in the
United States. They have a strong sense of tradition and family life.
As the workers bring in the harvest, I ponder the irony that, once
processed, these beans will travel thousands of miles to give
pleasure to people who enjoy a lifestyle beyond the imagination of
these Guatemalan laborers. Yet it would be unfair to label one group
“villains” and another “victims” in this drama. I realize that nothing
about this story is going to be simple.
I donate my meager harvest to a kid and turn once again to look
at the valley and volcano in the distance. Back in the United States, I
have already begun to accumulate mounds of research material that
threaten to swamp my small home office, where I will write this
history of coffee. But now I am living it, and I can tell that this
experience, this book, will challenge my preconceptions and, I hope,
those of my readers.
 INTRODUCTION
Puddle Water or Panacea?

O Coffee! Thou dost dispel all care, thou are the object of desire to the
scholar. This is the beverage of the friends of God.
—“In Praise of Coffee,” Arabic poem (1511)

[Why do our men] trifle away their time, scald their Chops, and spend their
Money, all for a little base, black, thick, nasty bitter stinking, nauseous
Puddle water?
—Women’s Petition Against Coffee (1674)

It is only a berry, encasing a double-sided seed. It first grew on a

shrub—or small tree, depending on your perspective or height—
under the Ethiopian rain forest canopy, high on the mountainsides.
The evergreen leaves form glossy ovals and, like the seeds, are
laced with caffeine.
Yet coffee is big business, one of the world’s most valuable
agricultural commodities, providing the largest jolt of the world’s
most widely taken psychoactive drug. From its original African home,
coffee propagation has spread in a girdle around the globe, taking
over whole plains and mountainsides between the Tropics of Cancer
and Capricorn. In the form of a hot infusion of its ground, roasted
seeds, coffee is consumed for its bittersweet bouquet, its mind-
racing jump start, and social bonding. At various times it has been
prescribed as an aphrodisiac, enema, nerve tonic, and life extender.
Coffee provides a livelihood (of sorts) for some 100 million human
beings. It is an incredibly labor-intensive crop. Calloused palms plant
the seeds, nurse the seedlings under a shade canopy, transplant
them to mountainside ranks, prune and fertilize, spray for pests,
irrigate, harvest, and lug two hundred–pound bags of coffee
cherries. Laborers regulate the complicated process of removing the
precious bean from its covering of pulp and mucilage. Then the
beans must be spread to dry for several days (or heated in drums),
the parchment and silver skin removed, and the resulting green
beans bagged for shipment, roasting, grinding, and brewing around
the world.
The vast majority of those who perform these repetitive tasks
work in beautiful places, yet these laborers earn an average of $3 a
day. Many live in poverty without plumbing, electricity, medical care,
or nutritious foods. The coffee they prepare lands on breakfast
tables, in offices and upscale coffee bars of the United States,
Europe, Japan, and other developed countries, where cosmopolitan
consumers often pay a day’s Third World wages for a cappuccino.
The list of those who make money from coffee doesn’t stop in the
producing countries. There are the exporters, importers, and
roasters. There are the frantic traders in the pits of the coffee
exchanges who gesticulate, scream, and set the price of a
commodity they rarely see in its raw form. There are the expert
cuppers (equivalent to wine tasters) who spend their day slurping,
savoring, and spitting coffee. There are the retailers, the vending
machine suppliers, the marketers, the advertising copywriters, the
consultants.
Coffee’s quality is first determined by essentials such as type of
plant, soil conditions, and growing altitude. It can be ruined at any
step along the line. A coffee bean greedily absorbs odors and
flavors. Too much moisture produces mold. A too-light roast
produces undeveloped, bitter coffee, while over-roasted coffee
resembles charcoal. After roasting, the bean stales quickly unless
used within a week or so. Boiling or sitting on a hot plate quickly
reduces the finest brew to a stale cup of black bile.
How do we judge coffee quality? Coffee experts talk about four
basic components that blend to create the perfect cup: aroma, body,
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