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 MI LK & C OOKIE S

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milk and cookies_mechs rev.indd 2 10/12/10 12:33:12 PM
 89 HEIRLOOM RECIPES
FROM NEW YORK’S
MILK & COOKIES BAKERY

MILK &
COOKIES
by Tina Casaceli
Photographs by Antonis Achilleos

Written with Judie Choate

Foreword by Jacques Torres

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eI
SBN978-
1-4521
-0538-
3
 WITH APPRECIATION AND THANKS:
To my father, Norman, who loved good food as much To Sabena Singh, who has been another blessing in
as I do. Not a day goes by that his influence is not my life. There is no one like Sabena! My number-one
beside me. No experience or education can compare fan, her encouragement and belief in me has helped
to the experience and education I gained as I grew me keep going.
up working with him; with my father, my strong foun-
To my friends and colleagues at The French Culinary
dations were built. I wouldn’t be baking or running
Institute for their endless support and encouragement.
a business today nor, especially, writing a cookbook
had he not taught me so well. I am especially grateful to Judie Choate; she brought
my idea from a thought to a reality. She makes it all
To my mother, Marilyn, for instilling the importance
seem so easy. There is no one better with whom one
of family and keeping tradition in me. She always
could write a book.
believed I could do whatever I put my mind to; I still
find courage in that. I thank her also for having the I am also grateful for my agent, Mickey Choate, who
patience and forethought to sit with our grandmoth- was the first to recognize the potential of this project
ers — hers and mine — transcribing all of their reci- and expertly guided me through the steps toward
pes as they prepared them so the recipes would be publication.
passed down accurately. She neatly typed them and I would also like to thank my editors, Bill LeBlond
created a book of family recipes for me that I still and Sarah Billingsley, at Chronicle Books, for under-
have and use. Her thoughtfulness made writing the taking this project and offering their encouragement
family chapter of this book a breeze. and wise words to make it the best it could possibly
To my brother, Phil, for always watching out for be. Also to Doug Ogan, Vanessa Dina, Tera Killip,
me. Having our businesses so close to each other Peter Perez, David Hawk, and all of the staff at
has been a blessing; knowing he is just around the Chronicle Books who deserve a huge thank you. You
corner makes me feel secure. Watching him operate do a remarkable job and produce beautiful books.
his business so flawlessly helped me believe I could My gratitude also goes out to Antonis Achilleos and
do it, too. I especially thank him for providing lunch Pam Morris for creating beautiful photos and never
each day during the photo shoot for this book. complaining as customers stepped over props and
To my staff at Milk & Cookies Bakery, without whom camera equipment during the entire photo shoot.
there would be no Milk & Cookies Bakery. I espe- You both have unbelievable patience and amazing
cially thank Jennifer Tan, my pastry chef, who helped talent.
produce all the products needed for the photos in this A very special thank-you to Dave and Sue Pacelli
book while never falling behind on any of the daily and Bob Borreggine for the multiple weekends they
bakery production, and for dealing with my craziness spent driving down from Rochester, NY, sleeping on
and then laughing with me at the end of the day. my apartment floor, and working all day and some-
Also to Jose Jerez, for bringing sunshine into our lives times overnight to help me transform the bakery.
every day he walks through the bakery door!
And finally, I would like to thank the many members
To my friends Vicki Wells and Christopher Papagni, of my extended family and my lifetime friends for
who understand when I don’t have time to even grab their unconditional love and continuing support.
a quick bite to eat with them, but who never stop Each of you has been with me all the way and, even
asking. though I don’t mention you by name, I hope that you
Lisbeth Rawl, I thank you for our endless phone calls know who you are.
that always help me keep things in perspective.

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 MILK & COOKIES TABLE of CONTENTS

F oreword by J ac ques Torres 10

Introdu ction 12

H ow To Create
N ever -Fail Cookie D ou gh 16

CHAPTER 1 Chocolate–Peanut Butter Cookies 39

vanilla COOKIEs Chocolate-Almond Cookies 40
Chocolate-Hazelnut Cookies 41
Vanilla Base Dough 20 Candied Orange and Pistachio Cookies 43
Milk & Cookies Bakery Classic
Chocolate Chip Cookies 23
Milk Chocolate–Caramel Cookies 24 CHAPTER 3
Milk Chocolate–Orange Cookies 25 oatmeaL COOKIES

White Chocolate–Macadamia Nut

Cookies 27 Oatmeal Base Dough 46
White Chocolate–Cherry Cookies 28 Scotchies 48
Dark Chocolate–Toffee Cookies 29 Spiced Oatmeal Cookies 49
Walnut Cookies 30 Oatmeal-Raisin Cookies 51
Blueberry-Oatmeal Cookies 52

CHAPTER 2 Cranberry-Walnut Oatmeal Cookies 53

Double Chocolate Cookies White Chocolate–Cherry Oatmeal
Cookies 55
Milk Chocolate–Orange Oatmeal
Dark Chocolate Base Dough 34
Cookies 56
Double Chocolate Chip–Mint Cookies 37
Chocolate Chunk–Oatmeal Cookies 57
Mocha Latte Cookies 38

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 CHAPTER 4 CHAPTER 6
peanut butter COOKIES Special Cooki es

Peanut Butter Base Dough 60 Snickerdoodles 87

Peanut Butter–Milk Chocolate Bites 63 S’mores 88
Crispy Peanut Butter Cookies 64 Jumbles 89
Peanut Butter and Jelly Cookies 65 Gingersnaps 91
Dark Chocolate–Peanut Butter Cookies 66 Coconut Macaroons 93
Mocha-Cherry Drops 94
Chocolate–Macadamia Nut Cookies 95
CHAPTER 5 Maple-Pecan Cookies 96
sugar cookies
Belgian Nut Cookies 97
Pumpkin-Cranberry Cookies 99
Sugar Cookie Base Dough 70
Gingerbread Cookies 100
Brown Sugar–Cinnamon Crisps 73
Chewy Chocolate Chip Cookies 101
Lemon Drop Cookies 74
Chocolate Sablé Cookies 102
M&M’s Sugar Cookies 75
Orange Sablé Cookies 103
Decorated Cut-Out Cookies 76
Carrot Cake Cookies 104
Tropical Sensation Cookies 79
Peanut Butter Cream–Filled
Candied Orange Cookies 80
Wafer Cookies 106
Candied Ginger–Sugar Cookies 81
Vanilla Cream–Filled
Chestnut Cookies 82 Chocolate Sandwich Cookies 108
Ice-Cream Sandwich Cookies 111

CO NT’ d

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 MILK & COOKIES tablE OF COntEnts CO N T ’D

CHAPTER 7 CHAPTER 8
FamilY FavOritEs brOWniEs anD bars

Biscotti 114 Milk & Cookies Bakery Celestial

Brownies 147
Chocolate-Hazelnut Biscotti 115
Kahlúa Brownies 148
Pistachio Biscotti 116
White Chocolate–Hazelnut Brownies 150
Anise Biscotti 118
Another Great Brownie 152
Sfogliati ‘Crown Pastries’ 120
Crispy Chocolate Chip Bars 153
Sfingi 121
Pecan Bars 154
Grandma Connie’s Light and Fluffy Sfingi 122
Magic Bars 155
Grandma Connie’s Anise Toast 123
Linzer Bars 157
Grandma Connie’s Wandies 124
Apple Crumble Bars 158
Grandma Tina’s Chocolate Drop Cookies 127
Toffee Squares 160
Grandma Tina’s Sweet Dough Cookies 129
Honey-Lavender Shortbread 161
Viscotti or Aunt Rose’s Famous
“S” Cookies 132 Vanilla Shortbread 163
Aunt Annie’s Sesame Seed Cookies 133 Crispy Rice Treats 165
Aunt Fran’s Asian Noodle Cookies 134
Aunt Fran’s Clark Bar Cookies 135
Bride’s Cookies 137
Wine Cookies 138
Almond Horns 139
Ciambelli 141
Pinulata 142

S Ou RCE S 1 6 6 IN D E X 168 TA BLE OF Equ IVA LEN TS 176

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milk and cookies_mechs rev.indd 9 10/12/10 12:33:21 PM
 Foreword
by Jacques Torres

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 In France, there is no such thing as “milk and cookies.”
A pot of tea, perhaps, and, of course, a dark espresso
or warm café au lait each served with small biscuits or
madeleines in the afternoon would be as close as you
could get to the favorite American snack. In fact, I had
never tasted a chocolate chip cookie until I came to the
United States and now, not only do I make my own, you
can frequently find me biking over to Milk & Cookies
Bakery for one of Tina’s just-like-homemade cookies for
a midday pick-me-up.
I find that the extraordinary thing about all of the
goodies at Milk & Cookies Bakery is that your childhood
favorites taste even better than you remember! Tina
Casaceli has taken all of her professional knowledge
and pastry skills and combined them with the finest
ingredients available to produce baked goods that are
not only delicious but somehow also say “made with
love,” just like mom does at home. This is not easy to do!
I think that home cooks will appreciate Tina’s skill in
translating her years in the professional pastry world to
creating simple recipes that will always work in the home
kitchen. How marvelous to have all of the base recipes to
perfect and then add so many appealing variations to the
mix. I’m so happy that Milk & Cookies Bakery is a neighbor
and I can pop in anytime I need my “cookie fix.” And for
those of you who don’t live close by, Tina has given you
a wonderfully enticing batch of recipes from which to
bake your own.
Jacques Torres

foreword p. 11

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 INTROD U

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D UCTION

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 MILK AND COOKIES:
THESE WORDS EMBRACE US WITH

SWEET FLAVOR, SUGARY AROMA, AND COZY

CHILDHOOD MEMORIES.
THESE WORDS ARE PART OF MY DNA.

One of my first memories is of a kitchen table heavenly chocolatey-ness with a wee walnut piece
surrounded by women. Their loving, capable hands in the center. Aunt Annie’s Sesame Seed Cookies
shaped, rolled, sugared, and cut cookie dough. As a (page 133) were perfectly rolled into logs and coated
tiny child, I wasn’t even as tall as the table but I wanted with sesame seeds.
to be part of this ritual. I knew they were preparing for Aunt Rose made her famous Viscotti or “S” Cookies
a wedding, holiday, or family gathering. These women (page 132). These cookies are a family heirloom, passed
came together to bake cookies for a celebration. down from my great-grandmother to her daughters-in-
At first I simply watched as they wrapped almond law, Aunt Rose and Grandma Tina, so they could make
paste in little pockets of dough. So quick! So neat! them for their husbands exactly the same way she
Nimble fingers shaped tiny bows of dough, then placed had. Also passed down was the requirement that they
one on each cookie. As I grew bigger, this became my be baked fresh every day—the men only liked them
job; my little fingers were the ideal size for twisting the on the same day they were baked!
dough into bows. This was my first kitchen task, and Each of these cookies had its unique mark—a
I was so proud to be part of the group. I tried to form nuance in flavor or texture—that made it stand out on
each bow perfectly so the women I loved would be a tray of similar cookies baked by other women.
proud of me. As soon as I could read and write, I made my own
These ladies—my mother, grandmother, aunts, grocery lists and asked my father to take me shopping
and great-aunts—all came together to bake. It usu- to buy cookie ingredients. I loved classic Italian cook-
ally started early Sunday afternoon, with a break for ies, but I also trolled my mother’s food magazines for
a huge pasta dinner. Even now, I close my eyes and new recipes to introduce to the family. At Christmas,
feel the closeness and comfort of these women as I gave everyone the same gift: a fancy package of my
they worked, chatting and laughing, and created per- cookie creations.
fect cookies that they shared with family, friends, and I kept baking into my teen years without an inkling
neighbors. that cookies would be my future. I worked alongside
Some of these ladies became identified with one my father in our pizza/sandwich/ice-cream shop in
special cookie. There were Grandma Tina’s Chocolate Rochester, New York. I loved working with food so
Drop Cookies (page 127), expertly iced drops of much that I decided to take myself seriously and

p. 14 MILK & CO O KI ES

milk and cookies_mechs rev.indd 14 10/26/10 5:04:32 PM

 become a chef. I enrolled in the Culinary Institute of Now, four years later, Milk & Cookies Bakery is my
America, where so many of America’s great chefs had pride and joy. All day long, the sweet, honeyed aroma
trained. What I discovered about kitchen life can be of freshly baking cookies fills the air. Not only do we
summed up in one sentence: I was far more interested bake cookies every day, we also throw in-store baking
in making pastry than anything else! parties and create custom flavors for special orders.
After graduation, I moved to New York City to begin Working with a number of base recipes, each baker
my pastry career. I worked in four-star restaurants, can choose any one he or she wants and, with additions,
bakeries, and cafés; with caterers; at wholesale create a signature Milk & Cookies cookie.
commissaries—anywhere to develop and hone my I thought that cookie parties would be a child’s
pastry skills. You name it, I baked it, but cookies were dream and that most of my customers would be little
always my favorite. ones celebrating birthdays and special occasions.
In 1996, I heard about the perfect job: pastry But cookie making is everybody’s favorite kitchen
instructor at the French Culinary institute. The pastry pastime. Young or old, women or men, rich or not so
program at FCI was brand-new and had been devel- rich, all types, sizes, and colors of cookie lovers have
oped by Jacques Torres, renowned pastry chef and sat at our big work tables creating their own style of
chocolatier. I was chosen to become one of the first cookies. It’s so wonderful to watch the satisfaction
instructors. I thought, “Great, this is a temporary job my customers exude as they create their master-
while I plan my own business.” Now, fifteen years pieces. The life I lead is sugarcoated!
later, I’m rich in experience and also the director of Since I believe all good things should be shared,
pastry and baking arts. in this book I give you all of my favorite cookie recipes
All of this was preparation for a full-time life in so you can fill your kitchen with the same sweet
cookies. The Milk & Cookies chapter of my life began moments I experience every day at Milk & Cookies
when a friend called to say that a little bakery in Bakery. I hope you will be inspired to create your
Greenwich Village was for sale. She told me, “You’ve own variations on my favorites. And if you do, I hope
got to buy it! It’s your dream!” I didn’t honestly think that you, in turn, will share your favorites with me.
I had the ability to buy a business but curiosity got
the better of me so I went to check out the place. After
one minute inside the bakery, enveloped in the smell
of freshly baked cookies, I knew; “This is right.” I had
to have it!
I carried that feeling with me, “This bakery will
be mine.” I would bring back my childhood passions
for baking and eating freshly baked cookies with my
family and friends. I would spend the day baking and
serving cookies to enthralled customers. I would live
for the simple love of milk and cookies every day.

introdu ction p. 15

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 HOW TO
C R E AT E

NEVER-FAIL
COOKIE
DOUGH

milk and cookies_mechs rev.indd 16 10/12/10 12:33:32 PM

 The professional knowledge and skills I’ve gained are some doughs (usually with a high liquid content)
through my years at the bakery have enabled me to such as Biscotti (page 114), Gingersnaps (page 91),
create a wide variety of never-fail cookie doughs. or Snicker­doodles (page 87) that are supposed to be
I want to share three important bits of advice with you sticky, which gives the baked cookie a very specific
that I know will help give you a complete understand- texture.
ing of the techniques I use to create successful and Equal in importance to the first two bits of advice
delicious baked products. is the quality of the ingredients. If you want premium
My first bit of advice is to purchase a good-quality cookies, you need to start with premium ingredients.
electronic scale; these are now quite inexpensive and This means all the ingredients! We often purchase
are available from most kitchenware stores as well as high-quality butter, flour, chocolate, and natural flavor-
many large supermarkets. One of the biggest mistakes ings but take all of the lesser ingredients with a grain of
home bakers make when preparing cookie dough is salt. And speaking of salt, I always use sea salt and the
in the scaling (the professional term for measuring) finest-quality sweeteners I can purchase. Taking the
of the ingredients. Concise measurement is probably time to find the perfect, premium ingredients will defi-
the most important part of dough-making and it must nitely pay off with perfect, top-quality baked goods.
be done meticulously. Weighing ingredients instead If you incorporate these three very easy bits of
of using measuring cups (for both liquid and dry mea- advice into your dough preparation, I know you will
surement) is absolutely the only accurate way to find that you are making never-fail cookies every time
scale each ingredient. you bake.
My next bit of advice is for the mixing process.
All bakers have a tendency to overmix doughs. As
much as I love my electric mixer and could not live
without it, it is a dangerous piece of equipment, for it
can very quickly overmix almost any dough. To pre-
vent this, I always finish mixing by hand and I sug-
gest that you do this, too. Stop the mixer while the
dough is still streaky and the ingredients are not fully
blended together. Lightly flour a clean, flat work sur-
face. Scrape the dough onto the surface, lightly flour
your hands, and finish blending the dough using a
gentle kneading motion, working until the dough is
just combined. One warning: Keep in mind that there

H O W T O CRE AT E N E VE R- FA I L CO O KI E D O UGH p. 17

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milk and cookies_mechs rev.indd 18 10/12/10 12:33:36 PM
 CHAPTER 1

VANILLA
COOKIES

milk and cookies_mechs rev.indd 19 10/12/10 12:33:37 PM

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