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THE
ANXIOUS
GARDENER’S
BOOK OF
ANSWERS
This page intentionally left blank
THE
ANXIOUS
GARDENER’S
BOOK OF
ANSWERS
TERI DUNN CHACE
ILLUSTRATIONS BY COLLEEN COOVER

Timber Press
Portland • London
Copyright © 2012 by Teri Dunn Chace. All rights reserved.
Illustrations © 2012 by Colleen Coover

Published in 2012 by Timber Press, Inc.

The Haseltine Building
133 S.W. Second Avenue, Suite 450
Portland, Oregon 97204-3527
timberpress.com
2 The Quadrant
135 Salusbury Road
London NW6 6RJ
timberpress.co.uk

Printed in the United States of America

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data

Dunn Chace, Teri.
The anxious gardener’s guide/Teri Dunn Chace; illustrations by Colleen Coover.
p. cm.
Includes bibliographical references and index.
ISBN 978-1-60469-236-5
1. Gardening. I. Coover, Colleen. II. Title.
SB450.97.D86 2012
635dc23 2011027108
A catalog record for this book is also available from the British Library.
Heartfelt thanks to Tom Fischer, Roger B. Swain, Kathleen Pyle,
Alan Chace, Wes and Tristan Dunn, Barbara and Heru Lamb-Hall,
Elizabeth Golding, Rosemary Blau and Linda Christie, Larry
Levinger, Sarah Rutledge Gorman, and Cassandra Wilson.

Dedicated to my gardening mentor, the late W. C. (Bill) Frase,

who always advised me to be thorough, constant, neat, and
patient—good advice for gardening, book writing, and living!
INTRODUCTION ..................................................... 8
BULBS .......................................................................... 14
CHEMICAL WARFARE.......................................... 22
COMPOSTING........................................................... 28
CONTAINERS............................................................ 34
DESIGN........................................................................ 41
FERTILIZING ............................................................ 48
FRUITS AND FRUIT TREES............................... 53
GARDEN CONDITIONS ....................................... 60

CO
THE GARDENER’S HEALTH AND SAFETY.... 66
HERBS.......................................................................... 74
LAWNS ........................................................................ 80
MAINTENANCE AND CLEANUP ..................... 89
PERENNIALS ............................................................ 96
PESTS IN YOUR GARDEN.................................. 107
PRUNING.................................................................... 116
ROSES .......................................................................... 124
SHRUBS ...................................................................... 132
SOIL............................................................................... 140
TOOLS .......................................................................... 150
TREES........................................................................... 158
VEGETABLES............................................................ 168
VINES ........................................................................... 178
WATERING ................................................................ 187
WEEDS AND PROBLEM PLANTS................... 196
ONTENTS
ZONE MATTERS ... 206
METRIC CONVERSIONS ... 207
SUGGESTED READING ... 208
INDEX ... 210
introduction
W elcome to the uncertain, exciting,
fraught, gratifying world of gardening. Whether you
are a complete newbie or have enjoyed some success in your
yard and are now expanding your ambitions, the fact
remains that it’s a wide-open field. There’s so much to do
and so much to learn. So many plants, so many choices, so
many creative ideas. So many gardening books, magazines,
catalogs, websites, and chat rooms.
10
We live in an age of exploding information. The upside is
obvious: you can look up almost anything you might want to
know—about plants; about techniques and projects and
design schemes; about care and coping with pests and
diseases and harvesting. The downside is also apparent: so
much information can be downright overwhelming. What if
you discover facts that contradict each other or don’t match
what you observe in your own yard?
First, thank you and congratulations for buying this book.
A book remains arguably the best way to educate yourself
quietly and contemplatively, at your own pace. You can
thumb through and pause where something catches your
interest, refer to the table of contents, or browse the index.
You can set it down and return later, when you know more
or your questions are clearer. The information here is
deliberately brief and pragmatic, so you won’t feel like
you’re drinking it through a fire hose.
Let me also add that because everyone is so busy
nowadays, I emphasize sensible and efficient tactics and
advice that save time and heartache. And because there is
an ever-growing interest in—and, to be frank, an urgent
need for—gardening practices that are organic and have a
low impact on the environment, you’ll find that theme
 11
as well. My goal is to help you become a more efficient,
savvier gardener, while having fun along the way. That’s how
it should be.
For most of us, the days are gone when older, more
experienced gardeners mentored young or new ones. The
loss of this continuum of practical and inspirational help is
a grievous one indeed. The gentle or bossy instructions and
advice of your gardening grandmother or nurturing
neighbor were valuable precisely because they were not
overwhelming. They knew what they were talking about
because they had once been in your shoes—gaping at the
disease-ridden rosebush leaves, wondering why the peony
wasn’t blooming, or ruing the weeds. They understood
your worries, answered your questions, and passed on their
gardening wisdom in calm and concise tones.
Calm? You know that “oops” or “uh-oh” sinking feeling,
but you may not even trust yourself, never mind navigating
your way to answers you can trust. Something in your
garden has gone awry for some unknown reason, or you
could have done this or that differently—right? Today’s
smaller yards and decks or patio container-based gardens
mean there is a narrower margin of error. You don’t want
to screw up what little gardening space you have. You want
12
beautiful, productive, healthy displays. You don’t want
to ruin everything.
Relax. As your gardening grandmother and nurturing
neighbor might have told you if they were here now:
plants are fairly forgiving. They want to live. Everything
will be all right. Mistakes can almost always be corrected,
or you can learn good lessons from your errors. Dear
anxious gardener: please relax, regroup, learn as you go—
and enjoy your garden.

HOW TO USE THIS BOOK

Start with the table of contents. Individual chapters address

the most common garden topics in alphabetical order,
and within them, the most frequent garden mistakes or
“oh, no” moments. Likely you will recognize familiar issues,
situations, and questions and can get some help and
reassurance. You will pick up ideas and information that
show how prevention is key, and you will become a better
steward of your home landscape and a better gardener
going forward. To use this as a reference book, consult the
detailed index, which can send you directly to plants,
problems, or projects of specific or immediate interest.
 13
Be patient as you browse, and feel free to read
several entries on topics that concern you and your garden.
A broader picture should emerge: Most mistakes
are not disasters, and it is within your power to right a
gardening wrong.
It is my fervent hope that the nuggets of information and
wisdom I share will lead you to feel less worried. You may
be inclined or compelled to continue your education
or search for further information (even returning to the
overwhelming Internet), but do yourself and your garden
a favor and walk that path. Walk, don’t run. Your garden
will prosper under the care of a more patient gardener who
is now confident that everything will be all right.
14

BULBS
GET A
HANDLE ON
BULB
SUCCESS—
BEFORE,
DURING, AND
AFTER
THE DISPLAY.
 15

W
Planting bulbs upside-down
While you would never put a living plant into the ground upside-down,
you might make this somewhat embarrassing, but all-too-common,
mistake if you’ve never planted bulbs or are planting a kind that’s new
to you. After all, bulbs are dormant, and there are no stems, foliage,
or crisp white roots to clearly clue you in to which end is up. If there is
a pointy end, you might guess the roots will eventually emerge from
there—and, alas, you will be wrong. For the vast majority of bulbs, from
tulips to wee snowdrops, the pointy end is up.

THE RIGHT WAY TO DO IT Growth is most efficient when you plant a bulb
roots down and growing end up. In the case of most popular bulbs, this
is generally easy to see. Like a store-bought onion, the top (where all
new growth will emerge) is pointy, and the bottom—the basal plate—is
BULBS

16
flat or flattish. If the orientation is not immediately obvious, such as
with some crocuses or ranunculus, peer at each bulb more carefully
and you should be able to figure it out. Sometimes you’ll even spot tiny
dried roots adhering to the basal plate.

IF I GOOFED, CAN I FIX IT? If you planted only a few bulbs and you
realize your error before the ground freezes, dig them up and replant
them. The prospect of digging up an entire bed of incorrectly planted
bulbs, however, may be daunting. Fortunately, plants have a will to
live. Upside-down bulbs, if otherwise planted in good prepared soil
at the correct depth, will still generate roots, and the emerging stems
will manage to make a U-turn in order to reach the world above. They
will probably emerge aboveground a bit later but will likely still be
strong plants.

Y
Planting bulbs at the wrong depth

You may be new to growing bulbs, or perhaps you’re planting some

that are new to you. Instructions and advice abound, and you do your
best and get them into the ground. And then you have your doubts.
Soon after planting, you read the instructions with more care or hear
conflicting information, or a more experienced gardener chides your
methods. Maybe you planted them too shallowly, in which case rodents
will dig them up, or winter will freeze and kill your bulbs. Or maybe you
planted them too deeply, and when spring comes they will never make
the long trip to the surface. The display you so eagerly anticipated will
be a bust.
 17
THE RIGHT WAY TO DO IT Generally speaking, planting bulbs
twice as deep as they are long is an effective, easy-to-
remember strategy. If you have light, sandy soil, set them
a little deeper; if you have clay, shallower is better. The
important thing is to get them down in the ground deeply
enough so that any freeze-thaw cycles won’t heave them out, and they
can get the chilling period they need to develop properly.

IF I GOOFED, CAN I FIX IT? If you are pretty sure planting depth is the
issue, replant the bulbs promptly, or start over with new ones, and
follow the twice-as-deep guideline.

WHAT ELSE?

Bulbs may fail to put on a good show for a variety of reasons.

Among them: they were poor quality; you picked ones not adapted
to your climate or not hardy enough to survive your winters; you
planted them in terrible or waterlogged soil; you planted them in a
site with too much or not enough sun; squirrels or other pests ate
them (tulip bulbs are bonbons for squirrels); you planted something
over them or they encountered some obstruction on their way up;
or road salt, weedkiller, or another harmful substance filtered into
their area. Finally, be sure to press a bulb into the soil so the basal
plate at the bottom, where roots generate, can come into contact with
the soil. An air pocket under a bulb may mean it will simply dry out,
not grow or show.
BULBS

18

I
Cutting back post-bloom bulb foliage

It’s your first season growing spring-flowering bulbs, and you had a
delightful show. What a lovely sight after the long, cold, barren winter.
But now spring is in full swing, and you’ve been to the garden center
and tucked in some annuals to keep things colorful as the bulb show
subsides and before the surging perennials come into bloom—and
those fading bulb plants look dreadful. You don’t want to yank them
out, so you simply chop off the floppy, yellowing leaves. Then, too late,
you learn you were supposed to let the bulb foliage die back at its own
rate because it was sending starch reserves down into the bulbs to fuel
next year’s show. Oops.
You may even have seen that some gardeners fold over the fad-
ing, floppy leaves and cinch them with a string or a rubber band. This
doesn’t look great, but it indicates to passersby that the resident gar-
dener is not a neglectful slob. However, this tack is not optimal either,
as it constricts or halts the refueling process.
 19
THE RIGHT WAY TO DO IT The best solution is to tolerate the unsightly
mess as it runs its course, but disguise the scene with strategically
placed annuals or garden decor. Remove totally faded leaves, but do
not yank, as you may inadvertently dislodge the bulb. A pair of pruners
or even sharp scissors will do the trick.

IF I GOOFED, CAN I FIX IT? There’s not much you can do this year. But
next spring, as the plants begin to re-emerge, give them a boost. Use
bulb food and apply it according to label directions. Also, resolve to let
nature take its full course that season. If you try it and the show is still
lousy, plan to buy and plant new bulbs.

Y
Planting bulbs in the wrong spot
You had a nice vision last fall. A luxuriant blue carpet of crocuses
under the evergreens in the backyard, or a rainbow of tulips along your
driveway, or a frill of cheerful yellow-and-orange daffodils against the
front of the house. But the beautiful scene fizzled. The backyard has
dusty, dry soil (something you didn’t notice last fall) and too much
shade. The tulips didn’t come up at all. And rain and snow have made
a sodden mess of the daffodil bed. Bulbs are supposed to be relatively
tough—at least the popular ones—and yet you seem to have given
them a bad home and they are sulking.

THE RIGHT WAY TO DO IT Generally speaking, bulbs prosper in sunny

locations in fertile, well-drained ground. Any spot that has poor, quick-
draining, gritty, or sandy soil—or, conversely, is waterlogged—is bad
for them. In dry soil, bulbs just dry out. In wet soil, they rot. As for
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