PHOTOGUIDES »JUGOSLAVIJA«

OP ATI J A
70 PLATES CITY PLAN GUIDE
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PHOTOGUIDES »JUGOSLAV!JA

OPATIJA

PUBLISHER JUQOSLAVIJA BEOGRAD

PHOTOGUIDES »JUGOSLAV!JA

Editor: Ivo FROL

Text: Vinko ANTIC and Ivan IVANJI

Translated from the Serbo-Croat by Kordija KVEDER
Maps by Boris BORODIN
Technical editor: Mihailo NIKOLIC

Photographs: T. DAB AC: 1, 9, 11, 14, 15, 19—24, 31—35, 37, 40, 41. 44,

49, 52, 57, 59, 60, 64. M. PFEIFER' 2, 4. 10, 12, 13, 16, 17,

25, 26, 27, 23, 30, 36, 39, 42, 43, 46, 47. 48, 50, 51, 53, 55,

56, 58, 62, 63, 65, 66, 68. 70; A. SMOKVINA" 3, 5, 8, 18.

29, 38, 45, 54, 61, 67. 696; D. RENDULIC 6, 7.

This book has also appeared in French, German and Italian

Copyright 1964 by Izdavacki zavod »Jugoslavija«

All Rights Reserved

Published by — Izdavac:
IZDAVACKI ZAVOD »JUGOSLAVIJA*
Beograd, Nemanjina 34

Printed by —
Stampa:
Beogradski graficki zavod, Beograd,
Bulevar vojvode MiSica 17, 1964
It is only kilometers from the city and port
ten
of Rijeka to Opatija. An asphalt road skims the water's
edge along the forty-kilometer coast, crisscrossing in
various directions, and finally bringing the holiday-
maker to the Fjord of Plomin. Along the route, he will
find a unique string of hotels, resorts, parks, walks,
and so on. A bird's eye view would show it up at its
best but it is also lovely seen from a ship at sea or
from the motor road winding downward from the
heights. At night it is a glittering necklace of lights
reflected in the dark mirror of the sea, its beauty
enhanced by the stars twinkling above against the
velvety summer sky.
After having tasted the delights of Opatija: joining in
the hustle and bustle always surrounding big hotels,
sauntering along secluded walks, sitting on a shady
bench listening to the whispering of the waves and
counting shooting stars, lolling about the terraces
watching the pretty girls flit by or the fast cars whizzing
along the coastal road, the tourist will feel a nostalgia
to return here year after year as soon as the first whiff
of spring air is wafted through an open window, har-
binger of the hot summer days to come.
 OP ATI J A

If it would be possible to arrange a rendezvous between

the Swiss mountains and the French Riviera beaches,
the only place they could meet would be Opatija.
Regardless of how the traveller approaches this resort
— whether he comes from Ljubljana via Postojna, or
travels from Zagreb through the Gorski Kotar district,
the asphalt ribbon he is following will first climb up to
the clouds swirling about the high-lying pine forests
and curve around the mountains and skiing slopes
before it finally descends to its goal at the seaside.
There is hardly another place in Europe where the
dividing line between two climatic belts, the continental
and the Mediterranean, is so clearly defined as it is
along the road leading to the Kvarner Gulf (Quarnero
Gulf) and its most popular tourist resort, Opatija. This
is especially obvious when the traveller is coming by
rail of a winter's day. It frequently happens that big,
heavy flakes of snow are falling at the Opatija-Matulje
Railway Station on the slopes of Ucka Mountain, only
a few kilometers away from the resort, while in Opatija
itself there is, at worst, a springlike drizzle, or an
uncertain sun shining down on a slatecoloured sea.
The first impression is naturally quite different if
Opatija is approached not from the interior but via
Trieste and Pula by the highway which closely follows
the winding coastline, or by white liner across the sea
from Venice. The traveller will then notice something
else — that Opatija is one of the few places along the
Yugoslav coast where history is silent, where it is left
up to nature, in all its dreamy moods, to speak of
eternity and mutability. No ancient monuments, no fac-
tory smokestacks, no tenements, no hustle and bustle,
no memories of centuries gone by, no reminders of the
unrest of our time disturb those who seek rest and
recreation here.
Hotels, villas, parks, coves with beaches, tiny harbours
in which sailboats rock, shady benches, romantic inns,
hospitable terraces are strung out along a twenty-
kilometer belt hugging the water's edge. The names of
these localities stretching out in a colourful semi-circle
facing seaward are Moscenicka Draga, Lovran, Icici, Ika,
Opatija, Volosko. Standing guard across the way from
them are the islands of Krk, Cres and Losinj, acting
as a breakwater for the Opatija Riviera and permitting
only occasional glimpses of the open sea between them.
They seem determined to preserve the serenity of the
Riviera which is not hemmed in by any barriers of
time or space. For this very reason, it offers guests an
ideal refuge if they are searching for a temporary escape
from the restless, overwhelming contemporary world,
from constant reminders of what is perhaps most
willingly forgotten.
This does not mean that there is no speed for those
who crave a faster tempo. Opatija is unique in the sense
that it offers each and every person exactly what he is
looking for. Elevated slightly above the seaside is a
smooth ribbon of road over which automobiles whizz
in an unending stream day and night, although along the
waterfront itself, separated from the highway by a dense
belt of parks, green with luxuriant vegetation, the lone
promenader can find peace and quiet on paths at the
very edge of the water.
 Some of the richly-appointed hotels in Opatija are of
the type where each meal is a veritable fashion show,
with the secrets of outsize trunks and suitcases paraded
before curious and inquiring gazes. In their public rooms
and terraces, the procession of chic and elegance goes
on from a late breakfast until dawn; from their ball-
rooms the call of the saxophone and the whining of the
clarinet can be heard far into the night, lit by crystal
chandeliers. But the thick belt of pines, cypresses, olive
trees and firs fanning out the length of the seaside in
all hues and shades of green absorbs all the frenetic
sounds of musicmaking. A few hundred steps away, only
an orchestra of crickets is heard and the guest in one
of the many small villas can float off to dreamland
counting the waves lapping rhythmically at the rocky
coast, listening to the whispering of the wind in the
trees or the lonely croak of some sleepy bird.
The Kvarner Gulf, where Opatija is situated, is the
part of the Adriatic Sea lying between the eastern
shores of the Istrian Peninsula and the northern Adriatic
Coast of Yugoslavia, where the slopes of the Velebit
Mountain massif descend almost perpendicularly to the
sea. Although Opatija itself is not a historic place, its
environs are. They may even be considered legendary.
The region was mentioned even in Greek myths. The
island of Aeaea which, according to legend, belonged to
Chryses, the father of Minyas, was actually the present-
day Losinj in the opinion of Robeit Graves, the noted
English historian and writer. If that is so, then Jason
and Medea, returning from the Black Sea with the golden
xleece, and crossing the Danube and the Sava Rivers,
passed through Opatija and finally landed on the island
of Kirka, today's Losinj, where Odysseus was also
received many years later in the course of his wander-
ings. Although prehistoric relics of the Bronze and even
the Iron Age have been found here, the earliest known
inhabitants of this area were the Histrians from whom
the peninsula of Istria derives its name. Scientists today-
believe them to have been Illyrians. The sea here
abounds in fish and the region is rich in olives, chestnuts
and wine. The Romans were followed to this area by the
Goths, Byzantines, Lombards and Avars. The Slavs
appeared for the first time in 599 A.D., but were re-
pulsed by the forces of Pope Gregory I. In the seventh
century, the Croats settled in the area of the present-day
Lovran, Opatija and Rijeka. Proof of this is a document
—
which Pope John IV (640 642) sent a certain Abbot
Martin ordering him to pay ransom for prisoners who
had fallen into the hands of the still pagan Slavs.
During the war between the Franks and the Byzantines
in 788, the Croats maneuvered shrewdly, thanks to
which they eventually succeeded in penetrating into the
towns. The power of the churches and bishops con-
tinued to grow. In 925, this entire region seceded from
the Kingdom of Italy and joined the Duchy of Bavaria,
with the exception of eastern Istria which, according
to contemporaries like Byzantine Emperor Constantine
Porphyrogenitus (in his opus De administrando imperio)
belonged to the Croatian Kingdom under King Tomislav.
A thousand years of political and dynastic strife
ensued with the area being ruled alternately from Italy
and Austria, depending on the nationality of the feudal
overlord ensconced for the time being in Lovran, Kastav,
Veprinac and Moscenice. The area changed hands as
one group defended its interests from the others: barons
from Devin or Walsee, the barons of Gorizia, the
Patriarch of Aquilea, the Duke of Austria, the Habs-
burgs. From the fifteenth century onwards, the boundary
lines in this region moved back and forth between the

8
spheres of influence of the Austrian nobles and the
Venetian rulers.
The earliest towns were therefore able to develop only
if they moved some distance up the slopes of the hills,

far from the lines of communication along which wars

were ceaselessly being fought. These were Kastav 1,237
feet (377 m) above sea level, Veprinac 1,705 feet (519 m),
and Moscenice, only 568 feet (173 m) above an inlet.
This is no great altitude but the tourist who visits the
virtually unchanged hamlet of Moscenice, overlooking
the resort of Moscenicka Draga, will realize how inacces-
sible it must have been without modern roads, defended
by the impenetrable rock and limestone bluffs which
were far more suited to defense than they were to
cultivation of crops. These settlements retained their
independence down through the restless ages; they had
their own judges and elected administrators. "The settle-
ments in the Kvarner region enjoyed more independence
than the other townships of Istria, a fact which was es-
tablished by their statutes. Among them were the Kastav
Statute, drawn up probably in the late fifteenth century;
Veprinac Statute from 1507, and Moscenice Statute from
1637. There is no doubt that these Statutes incorporated
from earlier periods."
legal institutions dating
It would be interesting for the holidaymaker who
decides to take a short excursion into the past to pay
a visit to the Moscenice Cemetery soaring high above
the sea. There, under the venerable trees, are ancient
stones with Croatian, Austrian and Italian names, evok-
ing memories of the persons whose bones rest here.
When alive, their eyes, too, must have sought peace by
gazing at the lightly undulating blue silk of the salt
water lying far below the bluffs. They, too, must have
followed with their gaze the bright spots of the sail-
boats as they ploughed slowly across the sea, or the
 .

barely discernible gull on the wing hovering about a

lonely mast standing like an exclamation point on the
waters . .

It is interesting to note that in ancient times there was

no settlement at the site of the present-day Opatija.
The Ucka Mountain, 4,580 feet (1,396 m)
gentle slope of
above sea probably did not offer sufficient security
level,
against attack in those turbulent times. There are
references to the existence of a sanctuary or temple here
which was probably destroyed during the reign of
Charlemagne. It is a certainty that the Benedictines,
who had numerous monasteries in the Kvarner area for
the accomodation of members of their brotherhood, had
built a chapel and monaster here at the seaside, at one
of the tamest site*, during the time when the Walsee
barons were overlords of the Kastav district. They
named it the Abbey (Opatija) of St. Jacob and it is
from this that the Opatija of today derives its name.
For centuries, it was called the Abbey of St. Jacob
near Preluka. Papal decrees and other documents of that
time make it easy to follow the subsequent development
of this church possession which was to become a town
in the nineteenth century and later one of the loveliest
resorts in all Europe. The inscription on the chapel:
2506 die 21 VIII Symon Abbas fieri fecit, reminds us
that the monastery is the same today as it was many
years ago when it was restored. It passed from one
owner to the other; following the Benedictines came the
Augustinians, the Rijeka Jesuits, the Crikvenica Paulists,
then the Rijeka Capitol, and finally the Volosko Parish,
which was founded in 1804. Thanks to its considerable
income, especially from chestnuts and wine, settlements
began to mushroom around it. In 1759, reference is made
to forty-odd landowners living in the vicinity of the
Abbey of St. Jacob. The township of Rukavac was

10
founded in 1831 with its seat at Opatija, while the title
of a community center, Agenzia comunale, was con-
ferred upon Opatija. Nevertheless, according to a journal
kept by Captain Ivan Fiamino in 1840, Opatija had only
35 houses with 250 inhabitants.

Towards the end of the nineteenth century, Opatija

began to develop rapidly, only to stagnate again between
the two world wars. The upsurge in its growth began
when a patrician citizen of Rijeka, Iginio Scarpa, laid
the foundation stone for a villa, which he called Angio-
lina. This mansion, started in 1844, became the first
tourist resort in Opatija. A year earlier, the road from
Rijeka to Lovran via Volosko had been laid, a fact which
did much to contribute to the development of the area.
Scarpa then began landscaping the grounds, thereby
laying the foundations for what was to become the
lovely park surrounding Opatija. A decade later, the
Governor of Croatia, Jelacic, stayed there with his wife.
A mere ten years after that, it had already become so
attractive to the Austrian sophisticates of the time that
Kaiser Ferdinand's consort, Maria Anna, spent her holi-
days there. This was like a green light to tourists.
—
Beginning with 1869, a steamboat on the Trieste Rijeka
line also started putting in at Moscenicka Drada and Ika,
about two kilometers from Opatija. Taverns and man-
sions began mushrooming along the seaside. Doctors and
spa specialists discovered that the climate and sea water
at Opatija were unusually favorable for convalescents.
A doctor and writer from Rijeka, Djuro Matija Sporer,
and a Vienna University Professor, Leopold Schrotter,
aroused interest in the founding of sanatoria and other
health resorts in Opatija, after having ascertained that

11
rarely could there be found such a concentration of
mineral salts in the sea water, or iodine in the air, as
at Opatija.
Ucka Mountain provided a barrier against strong
winds, while also assuring that the afternoons would be
shady and cool even on the hottest summer days. These
were ideal conditions for those seeking peace and con-
valescence. How right these Mediterranean experts were
is proven by the fact that owing to the same fortunate

combination of circumstances, a modern wave therapy

institute, run by eminent Yugoslav doctors, is now
situated there for the treatment of rheumatism and heart
disorders. Convalescents come here to recover after
heart surgery; those who face serious operations also
stay in Opatija a while to gather strength for their
ordeal.
The Southern Railway Lines of Vienna gave the de-
velopment of Opatija a forceful push when they laid
the track linking the big ports of Trieste and Rijeka
with Vienna. The freight traffic along this line was
heavy and the company decided it would pay to add
passenger trains and pullmans. After some vigorous
publicity, they succeeded in making Opatija one of the
chicest resorts in the Austro-Hungarian Empire.
There was a rush to build mansions, villas and hotels
in Opatija. Even Kaiser Franz Joseph could not resist
following the fashion and bought his mistress, Viennese
actress Katarina Schratt, some property in Volosko
where she built a villa, now open to the public. The
Southern Railways also constructed the first hotel, a
veritable palace, in Opatija —
the present-day Hotel
Kvarner, opened in 1884. The Opatija Jazz Music Fest-
ival, through which many Yugoslav crooners have won
popularity at home and abroad, is held in the hotel's
ballrooms every year.

12
 Opatija's development in the three decades between
the opening of the first hotel and the outbreak of the
First World War was unbelievably rapid. Hotels, beaches,
summer homes, parks, promenades, followed one another
in swift succession. The growth of steamship connections
is also an illustration in point. At the end of the nine-
teenth century, more passenger ships docked at the tiny
port of Opatija than they did anywhere else along the
Eastern Adriatic with the exception of Trieste. It was
the offical policy of the Austrian Government to aid and
abet this process. Localities near Opatija grew apace:
Ika, Icici, Lovran, Volosko, and Mos6enicka Draga.
Guests visiting Opatija at that time included nobility
from the Austrian Imperial Court and other ruling
dynasties in Europe, members of the aristocracy, bankers
and industrialists, parvenus and snobs of various ca-
tegories. But many famous professionals and intellec-
tuals also stopped there for a rest, among them the great
Russian writer, Anton Chekhov, whose short story,
Ariadna, contains the author's impressions of Opatija.
After the First World War, the Rapallo Treaty ceded
to Italy the Kvarner Riviera, the price which the Allies
paid for Italy's joining their side in the war against
Germany and Austria, although it was paid at the
expense of Yugoslavia. During this period, the whole
area receded in importance as a tourist center as it was
cut off from its natural hinterland and lines of com-
munication. After the Second World War, Istria —
populated by Slavs — became part of the federation of
Yugoslavia. This was the signal for continued develop-
ment of summer resorts, new roads and parks. This
small area, wedged between the sea and the mountains,
richly endowed by nature, is being built up to the
greatest possible extent and offers the tourist a great
variety of entertainment, excursions, rest and recreation.

13
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 SIGHTSEEING

THE CHAPEL OF ST. JACOB. — This chapel is situated in

the center of Opatija in a small park at the water's edge, at
a site where the Benedictines had constructed the chapel
with abbey in the fourteenth century which gave this place
its name. The inscription on the facade of the chapel in-
dicates that it was restored at the beginning of the sixteenth
century (1506). The church was rebuilt in the eighteenth
century.

VILLA ANDJULINA (ANGIOLINA). — Located northeast of

the Chapel of St. Jacob in a large park. The Rijeka patrician,
Iginio Scarpa, who had this one-story mansion constructed
in 1844, gave it his wife's name. That year marked the begin-
ning of Opatija's development as a tourist center. Kaiserin
Maria Anna, consort of the Austrian ruler, Ferdinand, stayed
there in 1860. In the year 1875, a Polish Baron, Viktor Cho-
rinsky, bought it only to sell it in 1882 to the Southern
Railways Company. At present, it is no longer used as a
guest house and is open to the public for viewing.

OPATIJA PARK. — Stretches around the Villa Andjulina,

from the sea southward in the direction of the Hotel Kvar-
ner, northward to the main street of Opatija called Marsala
Tita Street and eastward toward the harbour. Iginio Scarpa
began landscaping the grounds in 1845. The park contains
a rich variety of plant specimens. Always green and full of
flowers in bloom, it is a pleasant spot for a stroll and rest.

HOTEL KVARNER. — This was the first up-to-date building

of its kind on the North Adriatic Coast (1884). It is situated
at the water's edge and has a spacious terrace and ballrooms
where swing music festivals and other forms of entertain-
ment are held regularly. It still rates as one of the luxury
hotels of Opatija.

THE SEASIDE WALK. —

A unique promenade of its kind,
winding along the waterfront or climbing up above the steep
rocks. Laid out between 1885 and 1889, it leads northwards
to Volosko and southwards to Icici, Ika and Lovran. The
total length is twelve kilometers. It offers the stroller a
pleasant walk and lovely views of the Kvarner Gulf, Rijeka,
the neighbouring islands of Cres and Krk, and Vela Vrata.

THE FOUNTAIN. — The work of sculptor Hans Rathautsky,

this fountain, erected in 1889, is situated in the park near
the Church of St. Jacob.

"ZORA" CULTURE HALL. —

In the very center of Opatija.
Opened served for a time as a reading room. Up
in 1889, it
to 1914, it was also the seat of cultural and educational
activities in Opatija and had a very high frequency of
visitors. Today, it is used for cultural purposes.

THE NYMPH. — A statue at the seaside, dating from 1956.

It is the work of sculptor Zvonko Car, member of the Aca-
demy of Art.

THE SUMMER THEATRE. — Opened to the public in 1957,

this Theatre is situated in front of the park along the water-
front, near the harbour. During the summer, operas by the
Ivan Zajc Theatre of Rijeka, and other kinds of entertain-
ment, are presented here.

EXCURSIONS
ICICI. —This locality, with its fine beach, offers visitors
an opportunity for a pleasant excursion. Dating from the end
of the nineteenth century, it is connected to the north by
a motor-road and gravel walk with Opatija. A road leads
from Icici to Veprinac, a good starting point for mountain-
climbing excursions up Mount Ucka. There are comfortable
guest-houses, camp sites and a motel in Icici, which also
boasts a memorial to the victims of Nazi terror by the sculp-
tor Alojz Dolinar.

IKA. — A locality sdituated in a small (inlet, one kilometer

away from I&ici. There is a small harbour for local ships. It
was known in the eighteenth century for its shipyards which
produced sailing vessels and small types of fishing craft,
later also tourist craft. Fish canning factory. A memorial to
the dead of the National Liberation War by sculptor Vinko
Matkovic.

LOVRAN. — Next to Opatija, this is the biggest tourist

center on the eastern coast of Istria. Its name was derived
from laurel trees (lovor in Serbo-Croatian) which, in addi-
tion to the chestnut trees, are one of the town's showpoints.
Legend has it that Marcus Vespasius Agrippa, Roman
patrician and statesman, constructed his summer resort
(tusculum) here in the first century B.C. The earliest known
reference to it is in a Ravenna cosmography of the sixth
century. In 1153, the Arab geographer and mapmaker, El
Edrisi, cited Lovran as an important naval and commercial
center. During the Middle Ages, it was a Croatian township
under the administration of the Pazin Duchy, enjoying au-
tonomy under a charter drawn up at the beginning of the
tenth century. From the middle of the nineteenth century
onwards, it was a maritime town, possessing several ocean-
going sailing vessels. A road laid in 1843 linked it up with
Opatija and Rijeka and stepped up its development Lovran
played an important part in the national struggle of the
Croatts living in Istria. Only the ruins and gateway remain
of a one-time fortress, destroyed at the end of the eighteenth
century. There are in Lovran numerous remains of early
coastal architecture dating from the fifteenth to the eight-
eenth century: portals, balustrades, courtyards with cisterns
and coats-of-arms. Standing on the square is the Church of
St. George from the twelfth century and a restored Gothic
building from the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries with
Baroque additions. Inside the church is a Gothic sanctuary
containing frescoes from the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries
by an unknown master, and an inscription in Glagolica, the
early script used in these parts. Outside of town, in the park,
is the chapel of the Holy Trinity dating from the thierteenth
century. Traces of early Croatian arabesques may still be
found on the portals. There are remains of frescoes on the
inside, while the gravestone of a priest named Bekaric from
the sixteenth century contains an inscription in Glagolica.
There is a war memorial in the park. The ruins of an old
fortress, Knezgrad, are situated above Lovran,
MEDVEJA. —A tiny locality surrounded by greenery two
kilometers from Lovran. Set in a semi-circular cove with
fine sand. Pleasant beach. Not far from it is a camp site in
a pine forest.

KRAJ. —
A picturesque settlement in a belt of green right
next to the road, only two kilometers from Moscenicka Dra-
ga. It is the birthplace of the Croatian writer, Viktor Car
Emin (1870—1963). In the vicinity are the Chapel of the Holy
Virgin from 1521 and the Chapel of St. Anthony from 1669.

MOSCENICKA DRAGA. —
Seven kilometers from Lovran
and situated directly underneath the ancient settlement of
Moscenice. Draga has a fine semi-circular sandy beach almost.
1 ^4 miles long. Hotels and camp sites. In the neighbouring

locality of Sv. Petar, there is a chapel with an inscription

in the early Croatian script stating that it was constructed
in 1573.

MOSCENICE. — One of the earliest on the

settlements
eastern shores of Istria (568 feet, 173 m
above sea level). It
was an independent township in the Middle Ages, surrounded
by a bulwark on three sides. Reference to it was made by a
Slovene traveller named Valvasor in 1689. A large part of
the settlement has been preserved including the tower, an
early observation post next to the gateway from the thir-
teenth or fourteenth century, and the entire ancient residen-
tial area with its narrow alleyways, squares, houses with
passageways and arches, some of which were rebuilt or
repaired at a later date. The very old parish church, to which
additions were made in the eighteenth century, has two
beautifully fashioned canonic stalls seating eight. It was
under the archway of the ancient Chapel of St. Bartholomew
that the administrator, judge, keeper of the clock and council
members of the Moscenice township were chosen. The Cha-
pels of St. Sebastian and St. Rok (1506) remain from the six-
teenth century. Today, Moscenice provides a pleasant outing
for holidaymakers from the Opatija Riviera as it offers them
a breathtaking view of the entire Kvarner region.
BRSEC. — An ancient Croatian fortified settlement on a hill
515 feet (157 m) high. The ancient houses laced by alley-
ways and bearing Glagolica inscriptions are still intact. The
township was administered on the basis of a special charter
dating from the fourteenth century. It is mentioned by the
voyager, Valvasor (1689) who also published a picture of it.

Mount Sisol 2,733 feet (833m) looms above Brsec. It was

from the name of this mountain that the Croatian writer,
Eugen Kumicic (1850—1904) who was born here, derived his
pseudonym, Jenio Sisolski. There is a plaque mounted in the
cove underneath Brsec, recalling the landing of units of the
Yugoslav National Liberation Army there in 1945 during
battles for the final emancipation of the Istrian Peninsula.

VEPRINAC. — A medieval fort on a hilltop (1,705 feet, 519 m)

west of Opatija and eleven kilometers away by road. A road
from Ika also leads to Veprinac. Reference to it is made for
the first time in the twelfth century when it was an in-
dependent township. The visitor will find partially preserved
ramparts, gateway and loggia as well as ancient houses with
Glagolica inscriptions on the portals from the sixteenth cen-
tury. The parish church of St. Mark's is situated in the town
proper while the Chapel of St. Anne from the fifteenth cen-
tury is outside the town walls. Today, Veprinac is an ex-
cursion point offering a fine view of the Kvarner Gulf.

VOLOSKO. — a picturesque fishing and naval village

from the fifteenth century, situated in a cove which served
the itown of Kastva as a harbour. Up «to the nineteenth cen-
tury it was a prominent naval town where vessels of all sizes
docked. Today, with its fine beaches, it is a lovely place for

an outing. Not far distant is the cove of Preluka with its

tunny-fishing installations, camp site and special speedway
for automobile and motorcycle racing. It is the birthplace
of thewell-known scientist, Andrija Mohorovicic (1857 — 1936)
and poet Rikard Katalinic Jeretov (1869—1954).
KASTAV. —Asmall town on a hill 1,237 feet (377 m) over-
looking Volosko. Girded by walls and towers in the Middle
Ages, it served as the seat of the Kastav nobles and township.
Still intact are the gateway, a part of the fort and the loggia
(from 1571). There are a number of churches here. A National
Library, the first in Istria, was opened in Kastav in 1866,
giving it a special distinction durins the period of national
renaissance in Istria.The renowned writer, Vladimir Nazor,
lived and worked here for years as a professor and Director
of the Teachers' College. Today, Kastav is an attractive spot
for holidaymakers, thanks to its remarkable view of the
Kvarner Gulf, especially Opatija, the Opatija Riviera, and
Mount Ucka.
UCKA. — Montain lodge and restaurant (3,150 feet, 960 m).
May be reached via Matulje (15 milles, 24 km). Offers pano-
ramic view of the whole of the Kvarner area, and the islands
of Ores, Krk and Rab. From the peak (4,580 feet, 1,396 m),
the visitor can see all the way to Venice.

PLATAK. — Provides a fine outing for the mountain-minded

tourist (3,645 feet, 1,111 m), or for the skier in wintertime.
It is wedged in between the peaks of Risnjak (5,013 feet,
1,528 m) and Snjeznik (4,856 feet, 1,480 m), and boasts a
mountain lodge with restaurant. It can be reached from
Rijeka via Grobnicko Polje, a distance of 15 % miles (25
km). It also offers an excellent view of the Gulf of Kvar-
ner, ithe islands of Ores and Krk and parts of the Croatian
coast.

RIJEKA. —
A port and industrial city at the mouth of the
Rjecina River, twelve kilometers from Opatija. It is the eco-
nomic, cultural and political center of the eastern coast of
Istria, the Gorski Kotor district, and the coastal part of
Croatia known as the Hrvatsko Primorje. It numbers many
cultural institutions, higher schools of learning, faculties and
institutes of various kinds.As far as the tourist is concerned.
it primarily a point of transit and excursions, although it
is

has its own beaches, both on the Opatija and on the SuSak
sides. Above the Rjecina River is the ancient fortress of Trsat
(Tarsatica) providing a fin? view of Rijeka and the entire
Opatija Riviera.
 1 SEAWARD THROUGH THE HILLS (NEAR RIJEKA)
2 OLD ABBEY IN OPATIJA
3 PANORAMA OF OPATIJA WITH UCKA MOUNTAIN
4 RIJEKA—OPATIJA ROAD. CAMP AT PRELUKA
5 RIVIERA AT THE FOOT OF UCKA MOUNTAIN
6, 7 OPATIJA FROM THE AIR
8 CHIAROSCURO RHYTHM OF THE KVARNER RIVIERA (NIGHT
ON THE RIVIERA)
9 THE ROOFS OF VOLOSKO
10 VTEW OF VOLOSKO FROM THE HARBOUR
11 VOLOSKO
12 ALONG THE MAIN STREET OF OPATIJA
13 HOTELS
14 SAILING CRAFT IN FRONT OF OPATIJA
15 PROMENADE, BEACH AND HOTELS
16 VIEW OF BEACH
17 ROWBOAT HARBOUR
18 OPATIJA ENCOUNTER
19 BATHING
20, 21 BEACH
22 HOTEL AND PALMS
23 GREETING TO THE SEA (SCULPTURE BY Z. CAR)
24 CHURCH, HOTELS AND BEACH
25 MOTIF FROM OPATIJA
26 REST IN THE SHADE
27 CEDARS IN THE PARK
28 ON THE TERRACE
29 A "STILL LIFE" OF SPECIALITIES
30 BAROQUE IN THE PARK
31 MOTIF OF OPATIJA
32 WALK ALONG THE SEA
33 AN ISTRIAN WOMAN
34 MOTIF FROM PARK
35 PINES AND SEA
36 OPATIJA'S LUXURIANT VEGETATION
n SAILING REGATTA
38 TUNNY FISHING IN PRELUKA
?,9 LOVRAN AND THE GULF OF KVARNER
40 PIER IN LOVRAN
41 PANORAMA OF LOVRAN
42 MOTIF FROM LOVRAN
43 LOVRAN — FISHING NETS ON THE SHORE
44, 45 MOTIF FROM LOVRAN
46 GRAVELLY BEACH
47 LOVRAN COMPOSITION — NETS, HARBOUR AND TERRACES
48 OLD QUARTER OF TOWN
49 MOTH' FROM LOVRAN
50 ICICI MOTEL
51 SMALL HARBOUR IN iClCl
52 LOVRAN'S OLD HOUSES
53 ADRIATIC SHELLS
54 MEDVEJA — BEACH AND CAMP
55 ALONG THE OPATIJA— MOSCENlCKA DRAGA ROAD. THE
VILLAGE OF KRAJ
56 CHAPEL IN KRAJ
57 ISTRIAN BRIDE
58 PANORAMA OF MOSCENlCKA DRAGA
59 MOSCENlCKA DRAGA — HOUSES, BEACH AND FISHING
NETS
60 MOSCENlCKA DRAGA BEACH
Gl ON THE GRAVELLY BEACH
62 MOSCENICE — ANCIENT DOORWAY AT ENTRANCE TO TOWN
63 MOSCENICE
64 ANCIENT HOUSES AND A VINEYARD IN MOSCENICE
65 SAINT PETER IN THE MOSCENICE CHURCH (EARLY WORK
OF SCULPTURE)
66 STREET IN MOSCENICE
67 UNDER THE FISHING NETS IN MOSCENlCKA DRAGA
68 FISHING CRAFT IN IKA
69 SAILING REGATTA
70 ON UCKA MOUNTAIN
PUBLISHING HOUSE »JUGOSLAVIJA« BEOGRAD