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IV. LIGHT-KEEPERS ON THE SEA COAST It is a pious work
to help Christians exposed to the dangers of the sea, so that they
may be brought into the haven out of the waves of the deep. (Patent
Roll, 1247) WHILST the hermits of the island, the forest, or the cave,
chose their haunts chiefly with a view to solitude, there were others
who took up their abode with more regard to the direct service of
their fellowmen. The Church was the pioneer in many works of
mercy and utility, including the provision and maintenance of
beacons, bridges, roads, harbours, and even forts. Tynemouth Priory
kept up a lamp on St. Mary's Island near South Shields, and in foggy
weather a bell used to ring from the chapel for the benefit of
mariners. Probably the towers upon Inner Fame and on Coquet
Island (Plate II) were designed for a similar purpose. When a sea-
mark was required on the coast of Ireland, a tower was built at Hook
(Co. Wexford) by the monastery of St. Saviour, with the assistance of
the Earl of Pembroke. ^ The chapel of St. Nicholas on Lantern Hill,
about 100 *feet above the haven of Ilfracombe, was, and still is,
used as a lighthouse. Year by year throughout the winter a beacon
burned on the top of this chapel " as if it were a star flashing in the
night": so wrote Bishop Veysey in 1522, ,when he testified to its
usefulness in stormy weather, and invited people to stretch forth a
helping hand for the upkeep of the guiding light. - On the
promontory near St. Ives, there was another conspicuous sea-mark.
" There is now," says Leland, " at the very point of Pendinas a
chapel of S. Nicolas, 1 G. B. Hodgson, S. Shields, 287 ; Pat. 31 Hen.
Ill, m. 6. '^ Oliver, Monast. Exon. 29 n. 4 49 p;
50 HERMITS AND ANCHORITES OF ENGLAND I and a
pharos for lighte for shippes sailing by night in those quarters."
Hermits used frequently to act as coastguards and lightkeepers at
these lonely stations. In the days of Edward III, John Puttock settled
on the seashore near Lynn, where he \ erected, at his own great
cost and charge, " a certain remarkable cross of the height of no
feet," which proved a boon to seamen sailing up the Wash.
Recognizing the services of the solitary of " Lenne Crouche " (who
dwelt in a cave in the bishop's marsh), the mayor and commonalty
petitioned the Bishop of Norwich to admit him to the order of
hermits (1349). Possibly some such ministry was performed by the
hermits of Cley by Blakeney Haven and of Cromer. It seems probable
that a leading light was shown from the chapel at St. Edmund's
Point. Near the old village of Hunstanton, the low-lying shore of the
Wash is broken by a ridge, rising at places to 60 feet in height. On
the highest | part of the cliff, near the lighthouse, are the ruins of St.
Edmund's chapel (Plate XX), founded, as tradition says, by the saint
after he had escaped from shipwreck. The building seems to date
from Norman times, with doors and windows of later date. The site
has been recently excavated, and the walls (3 feet thick), show that
the chapel was 79 x 24 feet. Possibly this was the cell occupied by
Thomas Cooke the hermit, who in 1530 was maintained by the
L'Estranges of Hunstanton. There were other hermitages on the
shores of the North Sea, at Saltfleet Haven, at Skegness (near
Ingoldmells Point), j and at the mouth of the Humber. The last-
named, the chapel of Ravenserespourne, was re-built at great
expense by Matthew Danthorpe, shortly before 1399. Because it was
situated "where the king landed at the last coming into England,"
Henry IV granted the place and the chapel of St. Mary and St. Anne
to this hermit and his successors " with wreck of sea and waif and all
other profits on the sand for two leagues round ". The possession of
these privileges seems to have called out the sympathies of the
succeeding chaplain, for in 1427 Richard Reedbarowe had much on
his heart the dangers of the Humber and the frequent disasters, for
lack of sea-mark and lighthouse : —
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FLA TE XX C z z o X
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LIGHT-KEEPERS ON THE SEA COAST 51 So that the seid
Richard, havyng compassion and pitee of the Cristen poeple that olte
tymes are there perisshed, and also of the Godes and Marchaundise
there lost, hath begun ne in weye of Charite, in Salvacon of Cristen
poeple, Godes and Marchaundises comyng into Humbre, to make a
Toure to be uppon day light a redy Bekyn, wheryn shall be light
gevyng by nyght, to alle the Vasselx that comyn into the seid Ryvcr
of Humbre.^ This enterprising man had begun his tower, but needed
assistance in finishing it. He accordingly made a petition to
Parliament, setting forth that the tower " may not be made nor
brought to an ende withouten grete cost," and proposed that a tax
should be levied on every ship entering the Humber ; to this
suggestion the merchants and seamen of Hull had already agreed.
The Commons, in response to these businesslike proposals, made
special request to the king's Council, and the matter was settled. It
was arranged that for ten years the mayor should take tolls from
each ship at a fixed tariff according to her tonnage, and that the
money thus raised should be applied under the survey of certain
merchants and mariners in completing the tower to serve as a
beacon, and in finding a light ' to burn therein. Whether Richard
Reedbarowe ever saw the i fulfilment of his enterprise does not
appear. 1 The terrible frequency of wrecks is shown by the duty inij
cumbent upon the coastguard-chaplain of Reculver. On that ill cliff
was a chapel " ordeyned for the sepulture of suche persons I as by
casualty of storms or other incident fate or mysaventures ;| were
perished ". When the hermitage was founded is not i known; but it
was becoming ruinous in i486, when Thomas Hamond, " hermyte of
the chapell of St. Peter, St. James, and ij St. Anthony being at our
lady of Rekcolver," was granted a - commission to collect alms for
the rebuilding of the roof which had fallen down.-' Perhaps he was
not successful in his quest for alms, or it may be that another fifty
years of exposure to the winds had reduced it again to a state of
disrepair, for Leland notes : " Ther is a neglect chapel, owt of the
church-yard ". V The sea was rapidly encroaching, and eventually
the cliff was swept away at that point, j A hermit kept watch at St.
Margaret's-at-Cliffe on the South ^ P.R.O. Anc. Petitions, No. 1232 :
Rot. Pari., iv., 364-5. 2 B.M. Harl., 433 f. 216.
52 HERMITS AND ANCHORITES OF ENGLAND Foreland. In
1367 Brother Nicholas de Legh dwelt in this hermitage of "St.
Margaret atte Staire " : the "Stair" was probably (like " St. Margaret's
Gate ") a passage from the Bay to the cliff. Local tradition declares
that the cell was cut in the chalk cliff, near the modern lighthouses,
and that a lantern was hung up there to guide ships at sea. Possibly
the hermitage on the Sussex cliff at Seaford was used for a similar
purpose. Upon Chale Down, in the Isle of Wight, there was in 13 12
a hermitage and chapel in honour of St. Catherine. Two years later a
shipwreck occurred, which led to the foundation of a lantern tower
at St. Catherine's. A French ship belonging to a religious house was
wrecked, and the mariners, who sold the cargo to certain men of the
island, were afterwards charged with sacrilege for having
appropriated Church property. It is said that a papal bull was issued
threatening the chief offender, Walter de Godeton, with
excommunication. In expiation he was charged to build a lighthouse
on the Down near Nyton, above the scene of the disaster. A letter of
Bishop Stratford proves that the tower had already been erected in
1328. A chantry priest was to keep up a bright light to warn
mariners sailing by night on that dangerous coast. A survey of 1566
shows the buildings as they then existed, with little stacks of wood
ready piled for the beacon. The octagonal tower with its conical roof
is about 35 feet high (Plate XXI). It is in good preservation, having
been strengthened during the eighteenth century as an important
sea-mark. It stands 750 feet above sea level. Into the walls of the
old lighthouse a piscina is built, which probably came from the
oratory, now demolished. There stands on the Dorset coast another
mediaeval lighthouse from which an idea may be gained of the kind
of provision formerly made upon our shores. The chapel on St.
Aldhelm's Head (in the Isle of Purbeck) is 440 feet above the sea.
Within this oratory, which was in existence in 1291,1 prayers were
offered on behalf of mariners, whilst without, a beacon blazed for
their benefit. There is no actual record that St. Aldhelm's was served
by a hermit, but the fact 1 Hutchins, Dorset, ed. 1774, i. 228.
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i ii'
LIGHT-KEEPERS ON THE SEA COAST 53 that no institutions
occur in the Sarum registers suggests that this lonely chantry was
held by some semi-independent person. Plymouth Hoe had a
hermitage beside which stood a cross for a sea-mark. The chapel is
described as an old one in 141 3. Indulgences were frequently
offered by the bishop to those who should give alms for its
preservation. In 151 1 there was a " hermyt of Seynt Kateryn ".
Leland writes : " Ther is a righte goodly walke on a hille without the
toun by south caullid the How, and a fair chapel of S. Catarine on it
". Several other seacoast cells were standing in his day. Describing
Branksea (or Brownsea) Island in Poole Haven, he observes: "Ther is
yet a chapelle for an heremite ". An earlier traveller, William
Worcester, mentions one dedicated to St. Anthony, in the midst of "
the island of Camber," near Winchelsea. This chapel was destroyed
by Flemish pirates in 1536. "The men of Rye say that these men
burnt the hermitage of the Camber in despite and hewed an image
of St. Anthony with their swords, bidding it call upon St. George for
help." There was also a hermit's cell in the cliff' at Dover, sometimes
called the Chapel of Our Lady in the Rock. A reference to this place
is found in the disbursements of John, King of P" ranee, before
embarking for Calais in July, 1360: " Un homme de Douvre, appellc
le rampeur, qui rampa devant le Roy contremont la roche, devant
I'ermitage de Douvre, pour don fait a li par le Roy, 5 nobles, valent
33^". 4^. ".^ One David Welkes was hermit of Dover in 1399 when
Henry IV continued to him a life-annuity of 40^". granted by Richard
II. When Henry VIII returned from PVance in i 532, he visited the
oratory and gave alms : " Item . . . paied to the kings owne hands
for his offering to our lady in the Rocke at Dover iiijj. viijV. ". The
hermitage had recently been rebuilt (i 530) by Joachim de Vaux, the
P^rench ambassador, who afterwards declared that the little chapel
in the cliff had been restored by himself "in honour of Our Lady and
of that holy peace of which their majesties made him the
instrument". Discord, however, 1 Arclif, cf. hermit of Occlive near
Dover (Pat. 1308). ^ ^Comptes de VArgenterie (See. de I'Hist. de
France), p. 274. ^ ^ 5
54 HERMITS AND ANCHORITES OF ENGLAND arose in
connexion with the chapel, because it was served by a French
chaplain, Jean de Ponte, who was always in trouble with the
comptroller of the king's works at Dover, or with the mayor and
townsmen. The arms of England and France were impaled over the
door. A letter written to Thomas Cromwell in 1535 set forth that
"certain naughty persons have razed out the French king's arms
from a table that stands upon the altar ". Henceforth there was
constant trouble about the chaplain.^ On one occasion he was
arrested by the mayor and put in prison. He was released, but not
long afterwards he was attacked one evening by some labourers
working at the new fortifications. By the friar's own account he was
much ill-used. " One," says he, " knelt on my breast, and with a
stone knocked me on the mould of the head till I was as dead."
Froude, indeed, paints the man as a martyr: — " While the harbours,
piers, and the fortresses were rising at Dover, an ancient hermit
tottered night after night from his cell to a chapel on the cliff, and
the tapers on the altar, before which he knelt in his lonely orisons,
made a familiar beacon far over the rolling waters. The men of the
rising world cared little for the sentiment of the past. The anchorite
was told sternly by the workmen that his light was a signal to the
king's enemies, and must burn no more. And when it was next seen,
three of them waylaid the old man on his way home, threw him
down, and beat him cruelly." ^ By the men of his own day, however,
the friar was regarded as a " false French knave ". The comptroller
of the works himself begged Cromwell to command the mayor to
expel him, because he advertised strangers of all that was done in
those parts. It is of interest to notice that it was partly the light
shown in the hermitage which provoked ill-feeling, ''These persons,"
complained Jean de Ponte, "because I have a light in my chapel at
night when I go to bed or to my book, say I have a light for the
king's enemies, which is not true," But the light was soon to be
extinguished. At this opportune moment (1537), the authorities
determined to extend the harbour works to Arcliff, nor is it surprising
that the Sieur de Vaux sought in vain to turn from their purpose
those who 1 L. and P. Hen. VIII, Vols. IX-XII, ''Hist, ed, 1858, ni.
256-7 «.
LIGHT-KEEPERS ON THE SEA COAST 55 intended to
destroy the chapel by the contruction of a bulwark. For some years,
indeed, a fisherman peacefully occupied the cell ; but the place
having been undermined by Arcliff fort, it was eventually swept away
by a tempestuous sea. The great sea-mark on the cliffs of Dover was
the ancient Roman watch-tower which still stands by the church of
Dover Castle. It is always known as the Pharos,^ although there is
no record of its use as a lighthouse. There was formerly a second
tower, but this was already ruinous when Leland visited Dover. He
describes it as " a mine of a towr, the which has bene as a pharos or
a mark to shyppes on the se ". During the sixteenth century many of
the old beacons were destroyed or fell into disrepair owing,
doubtless, in many cases, to the suppression of religious houses. It
was, however, a happy circumstance that the Fraternity of the
Blessed Trinity had recently been founded at Deptford. This religious
guild was instituted in 15 14 for the benefit of mariners. In 1536 a
similar guild of the Holy Trinity was founded at Newcastleupon-
Tyne,- and was empowered to erect stone towers at the mouth of
the Tyne for " signals, metes, and bounds," and the two towers were
to be " perpetually lighted at night ".'- By an Act of Parliament the
erection of sea-marks for the guidance of navigators was afterwards
committed to the sole charge of the Trinity House, Deptford. This Act
(1566) contains a tribute to the work done by way of charity in
bygone days : — " Forasmuche as by the dystroyeng and taking
awaye of certaine Steeples Woods and other Markes standing upon
the mayne Shores . . . being as Beakons and Markes of auncyent
tyme accustomed for seafaring Men to save and kepe them and the
Shippes in their Charge from sundry Daungers thereto incident,
divers Shyppes . . . have by the lacke of suche Markes of late yeres
ben myscaried peryshed and lost in the Sea, to the great Detryment
and Hurte of the Comon Weale, and the perysheng of no smale
number of People," ^ etc. ^ So called from the Island of Pharos,
whereon Ptolemy Philadelphus built his famous lighthouse tower, one
of the seven wonders of the world. It was of white marble, and
could be seen at a distance of loo miles. On the top fires were kept
burning to direct sailors into the Bay of Alexandria (Lempriere,
Classical Diet.). 2 L. and P. Hen. VIII, xi. 376. ' Statute, 8 Eliz., c. 13.
56 HERMITS AND ANCHORITES OF ENGLAND Henceforth
the story of the watchers of our coasts must be sought in the annals
of the Trinity House. The scientificallyequipped lighthouses on
Coquet Island, Spurn Head, St. Edmund's Point, and St. Catherine's,
form, it is true, a striking contrast to the ancient cells upon those
headlands, but it is well to remember that, in the day of small
things, even the simple signal was to the seafarer a " bright beacon
of God," and that the hermit helped to lay the foundations of the
present elaborate system for the distribution of maritime lights.
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PLATE XXII Z
V. HIGHWAY AND BRIDGE HERMITS " To ordain a hermit to
stay in the hermitage and labour with his hands for the maintenance
of the highway, which has long been a nuisance for lack thereof." —
Patent Roll, 1447 SIR Thomas Malory, looking back in imagination to
the golden age of King Arthur, says that " in these dayes it was not
the guyse of heremytes as is now a dayes ". Formerly, they had
been men of worship and prowess : " and the heremytes helde grete
housholde, and refresshed peple that were in distresse". During the
Middle Ages, however, ministering hermits, often of the peasant
class, were found throughout the country, dwelling beside the
highways, bridges, and fords. Their duties were those of host, guide,
light-bearer, labourer, alms-gatherer, turnpike man, or bridge-
warden. Before the year 1 1 14, Goathland hermitage, on the moors
near Whitby, was a house of hospitality for the poor. It was under
the care of Osmund the priest and other brethren. Another
philanthropic solitary was Hugh Garth, "an heremyt of great
perfection," who, after gathering alms for that purpose, founded a
hospital — probably to shelter travellers — at Cockersand, in the
sandy wastes between the estuaries of the Lune and Coker, a place
described by Leland as " standing veri blekely and object to all
wynddes". This refuge, founded shortly before 1 1 84, afterwards
developed into an abbey. Other hermits acted as guides at the
passages of rivers. There were cells above Rownham Ferry near
Bristol ; by the Severn at Redstone ; by the Itchen at Southampton ;
at several Norfolk fords ; and by the ferry and haven at Gorleston.
The work of light-bearer at the riverside is illustrated by the story of
St. Christopher. In that beautiful legend it is a hermit who bids
Offerus serve travellers, and lights the 57
58 HERMITS AND ANCHORITES OF ENGLAND giant in his
pious labours. In many drawings of St. Christopher depicted on the
walls of our ancient churches, the solitary stands on the bank with a
huge lantern, to light him as he fords the river, carrying the Christ-
Child ; as, for example, in the wall-paintings at St. John's,
Winchester (now destroyed), and at Poughill (restored). The painting
in Shorwell church shows on one shore a cell, and on the other, a
tripod-beacon and cross. ^ That in St. Laurence, Winchester,
depicted a flaming beacon outside the chapel, and on the opposite
bank, a cottage. Road-hermits begin to appear early in the
fourteenth century. Throughout the Middle Ages the upkeep of
highways was left to the charity of the few. Some of the religious
houses did their share, and the bishops encouraged almsdeeds in
this form. Langland, the fourteenth-century social reformer, exhorted
the charitable to repair " wikked ways " and " brygges to-broke ".
The complaint of the ancient rhyme that " London Bridge is broken
down " was echoed in other towns, and how to build it up again was
often a problem. A considerable amount of work was undertaken
during the fourteenth century. The state of the common ways at this
period has been so fully described by M. Jusserand in his Wayfaring
Life that it is not necessary to say more about the subject than
actually concerns the office of the hermit. The bridge-maker's chief
duty was to raise funds for materials and wages. Brother John le
Mareschal went about the country collecting alms for the sustenance
of himself and of the men working at the causeway between Blyth
and Mattersey, and at Mattersey Bridge. This fourteenth-century
stone bridge over the Idle is still standing. It was begun in the
previous century, for Archbishop Wichwane issued a brief for it in
1284. The privilege of raising pavage or pontage — to use the
technical terms — was occasionally given for a term of years. Tolls
were levied at Doncaster in order to fill up certain pits near the
king's highway, and to repair the pavement near the bridge, Geoffrey
de Bolton, "who out of charity undertook that work," was permitted
to take a penny on every cart, and a farthing on every pack-horse
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