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Waves & Water Dynamics: Muhammad Nazirul Bin Zahri Darlson. A Sem Shahrizwan Bin Subri

Waves are moving energy that travels along the interface between the ocean and atmosphere, transferring energy over long distances. Currents are masses of water that flow from one place to another. Waves are generated by wind and cause damage when hitting land, while currents are generated by other ocean forces and do not cause the same damage. There are two types of wave interference - constructive, where waves combine to produce larger displacements, and destructive, where waves combine to produce smaller displacements. A sea has short, rounded waves generated directly by local winds, while a swell has longer, more uniform waves that have traveled away from where they were originally generated by winds.

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34 views

Waves & Water Dynamics: Muhammad Nazirul Bin Zahri Darlson. A Sem Shahrizwan Bin Subri

Waves are moving energy that travels along the interface between the ocean and atmosphere, transferring energy over long distances. Currents are masses of water that flow from one place to another. Waves are generated by wind and cause damage when hitting land, while currents are generated by other ocean forces and do not cause the same damage. There are two types of wave interference - constructive, where waves combine to produce larger displacements, and destructive, where waves combine to produce smaller displacements. A sea has short, rounded waves generated directly by local winds, while a swell has longer, more uniform waves that have traveled away from where they were originally generated by winds.

Uploaded by

roku88
Copyright
© Attribution Non-Commercial (BY-NC)
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
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Download as PPTX, PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
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WAVES & WATER

DYNAMICS
MUHAMMAD NAZIRUL BIN ZAHRI
DARLSON. A SEM
SHAHRIZWAN BIN SUBRI
Compare between waves
&
current
Definition
Waves
moving energy traveling along the interface between
ocean & atmosphere, often transferring energy from a
storm far out at sea over distance of several thousand
kilometers.
Currents
masses of water that flow from one place to another.
Characteristic of the waves
Wavelength
measures the distance between two equivalent parts

Wave height
the waves height can measured between crest and
trough
Crest
highest portion of a wave

Trough
lowest portion of a wave
Wave motion
Transverse
oscillations perpendicular to the direction
of propagation
Longitudinal
oscillations parallel to the direction of
propagation
Current Waves
• Generated by the forces • Generated by wind
acting upon this mean flow.
e.g; breaking waves, wind,
Coriolis effect, temperature
and salinity
• The current not cause • The waves not deflect
damage and deflect when when collision with the land
collision the land and it can cause damage
• Moving in the all oceans • Movement is not extensive
in the world
How Do Constructive &
Destructive Interferences
Affect Wave
Interference

What are two types of interference?


Interference occurs when two or more waves
overlap and combine together.
Two types of interference are constructive
interference and destructive interference.
Interference
When waves collide, they can occupy the same
region of space and then continue on.
 Constructive interference occurs when two or more
waves combine to produce a wave with a larger
displacement.
 Destructive interference occurs when two or more
waves combine to produce a wave with a smaller
displacement.
Constructive Interference
Constructive Interference
Two waves with equal frequencies travel in
Two waves in phase add together,
which is called constructive
opposite directions. interference.
When a crest meets a crest, the result is a wave
with an increased amplitude.
Destructive Interference
Destructive Interference
Two waves with equal frequencies travel in Two waves out of phase cancel each
opposite directions. other out, which is destructive
When a crest meets a trough, the result is a interference.
wave with a reduced amplitude.
Interference of Waves
Factors affecting the interference of water waves;
Different wavelengths
Variables bending moment of waves frequencies
Distance between two consecutive node lines, or, antinodes
lines
Which is a point of constructive interference?
Constructive interference occurs at A and C.

B A

C
Which is a point of constructive interference?

B A

Destructive interference occurs at B.


DIFFERENTIATE BETWEEN A
SEA AND A SWELL
Sea
The wind blows over the ocean surface, it creates
pressure and stress.

These factor deform the ocean surface into small,


rounded wave with V-shape troughs and wavelength
less then 1.74 cm.

Commonly, call ripples or capillary wave. The


length of gravity wave is generally 15 to 35 times
their heights. As additional energy gained, wave
height increase more rapidly than wavelength.
Swell
The wave generate in a sea area move toward margins,
wind speeds diminish and the waves eventually move
faster than the wind

Swells are uniform, symmetrical waves that have


traveled out of the area where they originated.

Swells moves with little loss of energy over large


stretches of the ocean surface, transporting energy
away from one sea area and depositing it in another.
sea swell
SEA SWELL

 Blows over the ocean surface, Generate when wind speed


create pressure and stress. diminishes & waves travel
faster than the wind.
 Deform the ocean surface Uniform symmetrical waves
into small, rounded waves that traveled out of their area
with V-shape troughs & of origin.
wavelengths less than 1.74
cm. Called swells when steepness
 Called ripples or capillary decrease, and wave become
waves. long-crested waves.

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