DEPARTMENT OF TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY
PSG COLLEGE OF TECHNOLOGY
ANTI-SHRINK FINISHING OF
TEXTILES
AISWARYA V (19MTO1)
COLOURATION AND FINISHING
TECHNOLOGY
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FINISHES
• A fabric finish is applied to a fabric once it has
been made to improve appearance, feel or
other properties
• Finishing process are carried out to improve
the natural properties or attractiveness of the
fabric and to increase its serviceability
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WHY FABRIC FINISHES USED
• Improve the appearance - colour, pattern
• Change the texture of the fabric – embossing,
brushing
• Improve the feel – softer, crisper
• Improve the wearing qualities – crease
resistance, stain resistance, water proof
• Modify care requirements – easy wash,
colourfast, less shrinkage
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FACTORS AFFECTING FINISHING
• Nature of fabric
• Physical properties of fabric
• End use of material
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CLASSIFICATION OF FINISHES
• MECHANICAL
TEMPORARY DURABLE
calender, embossing, compressive shrinkage,
glazing, breaking, milling of wool, raising and
stretching cutting processes,
permanent setting
• CHEMICAL
Mercerization, water repellent finish, fire-
resistant and fireproofing finishes
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SHRINKAGE
• Shrinkage is the contraction in the dimension
of the fabric due to usage
• Cotton fabric suffers from two main
disadvantages of shrinking and creasing during
subsequent washing
• Creasing ; Resin finishing
• Shrinking ; “SANFORIZING”
Machine (Zero-Zero pre shrinking)
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SHRINKAGE
• Controlled residual shrinkage is an important
quality parameter for many fabrics
• Excessive shrinkage is undesirable for fabrics
to be made into garments
• The residual shrinkage should be less than 2%
otherwise the garment will not fit after it is
laundered.
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WHY FABRICS SHRINK
• Fabric is completely relaxed, the crossing
yarns will move around in relation to
each other until a stable configuration is
reached. This stable arrangement, the
point where the relaxed fabric no longer
shrinks in width and length
• stretching tensions are applied to the
fabric, the crimped amplitude decreases
and the fabric grows in the direction of
the stress.
• when the tensions are relieved and the
fabric allowed to relax, the crimp
amplitude returns to its stable
configuration and the fabric shrinks
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OBJECTIVES OF ANTI-SHRINK
• Fabric smooth and free from undesirable
shrinkage
• Reducing residual shrinkage. The process
forces yarns closer together and the fabric
becomes thicker and heavier
• Sanforizer is a fabric compactor is used to
describe shrink proofing processes
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SANFORIZER
• Treating textile fabrics to prevent
the normal dimensional alternation
of warp and weft
• Used for natural and synthetic
fibres
• Method
i. Stretching,
ii. Shrinking
iii. Fixing the woven cloth in both
length and width
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PRINCIPLE
• Elastic felt blanket is passed around a metal roller in
contact with it, its outer surface is process extended
and the inner surface contracted
• The fabric is fed into a sanforizing machine where it
is treated with water or steam to promote shrinkage,
then pressed against a heated rubber band to relax and
re-contract the fibers
• A rotating cylinder presses a rubber sleeve against
another, heated, rotating cylinder. Thereby the sleeve
briefly gets compressed and laterally expanded,
afterwards relaxingAnti-shrink
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to itsfinishing
normalof textiles
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PRINCIPLE
• The cloth to be treated is transported between rubber
sleeve and heated cylinder and is forced to follow this
brief compression and lateral expansion and
relaxation
• Friction between the rubber sleeve and heated
cylinder force adjacent yarns to move closer together
until the “unit length of fabric become equal to the
unit length of rubber blanket”
• The greater the pressure applied to the rubber sleeve ,
the bigger the shrinking afterwards
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SANFORIZER
F = Fabric; S = Skyer; C = Clip expander;
R = Rubber belt; P = Pressure roll;
RB = Rubber belt cylinder; D = Dryer
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METHODOLGY
Fabric (F) passes through the skyer (S) or other moistening device and is
moistened by water and/or steam
Fabric passes through the clip expander (C) and also transports the fabric to
rubber belt unit
Fabric (F) is now fed into the pressure zone
The rubber belt recovers itself and the surface returns to its original length
carrying the fabric with it
After compaction within the rubber belt unit, the fabric enters the dryer (D).
Here the fibers are locked in their shrunken state by removing the moisture
from the fabric
The final result of this test must meet the Sanforized Standard, in length and
width before it may carry the Sanforized label
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EFFECT OF SANFORIZING
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MEASUREMENT OF FABRIC
SHRINKAGE
A glass template put on a fabric
sample
SHRINKAGE (%)
There are six mark on glass (length of fabric before wash –
template length of fabric after wash) ×100
length of fabric after wash
Sample is ready for washing(
washing machine or dry
cleaning) SHRINKAGE (%) lengthwise
(length of fabric after wash –
After washing the fabric is length of fabric before wash) ×100
taken out and dry the samples
length of fabric before wash
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FRICTION CALENDAR COMPACTORS
Another method of compacting fabrics is with calendar rolls
The fabric passes between two metal cylinders, one cylinder rotates faster than
the other
The fabric is restrained by shoes that are positioned against the cylinders
The fabric delivery cylinder rotates faster than the take-off cylinder and the
action is similar to stuffing a string into a straw
The friction causes filling yarns to move closer together and a loss of fabric
length
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FRICTION COMPACTING PRINCIPLE
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OVERFEED PIN TENTERING
A third method of pre-shrinking fabrics is by overfeeding wet cloth onto the
pins of a pin tenter oven during drying or heatsetting
Certain tenter frames are equipped with an auxiliary fabric feed drive that is
independent of the tenter chain drive
These devices deliver fabric at a faster rate than the linear speed of the pin
chains.
The excess fabric is forced onto the pins by pinning wheels
Drying forces causes the fabric to shrink so the fabric exits the oven in a pre-
shrunken state
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OVERFEED PIN TENTER
1 = Tension roller; 2 = Fluted roller; 3 = Feeler;
4 = Selvedge safety device roller;
5 = Feed roller of the leading mechanism;
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= Pressing roller; 7= Brush for pinning the fabric
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THANK YOU!!!
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