Analysis Of Various

Chemical Processing Steps

In Term Of Process &
Quality Control
Different Chemical Processes
Kapil

Dyeing Finishing

Namit

Pretreatment Printing
 DYEING
 Dyeing is the process of imparting colours to a textile material in fibre,
yarn, cloth or garment form by treatment with a dye.
 A dye can generally be described as a colored substance that has an
affinity towards the substrate to which it is being applied. It is applied
to different substrate by using a different kind of machines.
Different types of machines:-
 Pad Mangles
 High Speed Beam Dyeing Machine
 Jet Dyeing Machine
 Jigger Dyeing Machine
 PAD-MANGLE
Introduction:- In this machine, DIP-NIP method is followed. The
main purpose of the mangle is to impregnate the material evenly with
dye liquor.
Factors Needs to be Controlled:-

S. No. Factors Guidelines Controlled by/

Observed by
1. Hardening of rubber 75-85° Shore Hardness Meter
of bowls Durometer
2. Time available for Sufficient for Speed
saturation with thorough saturation
liquor
3. Methods of feeding Perpendicular to the Threading arrangement
the fabric to the nip nip
4. Tension on the fabric Just sufficient to Threading arrangement
ensure smooth entry
5. Pressure on the Equal on both sides & Pressure gauges
mangle rolls sufficient for reqd.
pick-up
DRYING EQUIPMENTS:-
 Many a sequence in cloth dyeing requires “intermediate” drying, i.e.
drying after padding but before fixation. Three types of machines are
used for this purpose:-
 Cylinder drying range
 Hot flue
 Float dryer
• PRECAUTIONS FOR GOOD RESULTS:-
 Use multi cylinder drying range and keep low steam pressure in first to
avoid “shock drying”.
 In hot flue and float dryer use low speed fans in first chamber.
 Add a suitable migration inhibitor to the padding solution(say, 1 g/l for
thick cloth to 0.5 g/l for thin cloth).
 Keep the wet pick-up at the mangle as low as possible.
TO CHECK MIGRATION INDEX:-
Take two pieces of cloth,(stitch one side),pad through the
solution, dry, develop. Compare these visually or measure
the reflectance of both the sides of these pieces. The
migration index is calculated as follow:-

M = 2k/(k’+k)
Where, M= Migration index
k= k/s value of outside surface
k’= k/s value of inside surface
In this test M=1 indicates “no migration” and M=2 indicates
“complete migration”.
MIGRATION BECOME LARGE IF:-
Pick-up is high
Thickness of material is more
Drying rate is high
Polyester content in the blend is high
Cloth is densely woven
Proportion of finer particles in the pad-liquor is high.
STEAMING/THERMOSOLING:-
Some dyes can be fixed by steaming or thermosoling
operation.
Parameters Involved In Steaming:-
Temperature
Speed
Absence of air(for vat dyes)
Parameters Involved In THERMOSOLING:-
• Even distribution of temperature is necessary.
• Regular cleaning of the filters & airflow passage is
necessary to prevent blockage.
AFTERTREATMENT:-
It involves Oxidation(for vat dye), Soaping & Final
rinsing.
Parameters To Be Controlled:-
• Conc. Of Chemicals.
• Temperature According To Dye.
• Time Of Treatment.
• Flow Of Water In Rinsing & Efficiency Of Rinsing.
HIGH Temperature BEAM DYEING
Machine:-
Polyester component of polyester containing fabrics is dyed
with High Temp. Beam Dyeing or Jet dyeing machine.
CONDITIONS:-
• Fabric should be Properly heat set.
• The selvedge should be plain & should not be dented or
folded.
• Fabric tension must remain constant.
• There should be sufficient layers of cotton cloth wound on
the perforated beam before winding batch. This will avoid
possibility of perforation marks.
• Batch size should be acc. To the cover factor, 20 cm for open
weave & 10 cm for closed weave fabric.
• Liquor flow should be in one direction say inside-out.
PRECAUTIONS:-
S. No. Parameters Precautions
1. Beam batching •Ensure wrapping with filter fabric
•Cloth should cover perforation length equally on
both sides
•Winding under satisfactory tension
2. Rate of circulation •Ensure good working of injector & main pump
•Do not allow foam formation
3. Preparation of dye Check for clear solution Or good dispersion by
liquor & addition chromatography
to dye bath
4. Rate of heating Use automatic control, periodically checking
5. Pressure Record pressure periodically
6. Conditions of dye Notice deviation(check pH)
bath during dyeing
7. After treatment Follow suitable sequence
JET DYEING Machine:-
In this machine, we can perform pretreatment and dyeing
of any fabric.
It can perform high temperature dyeing(at 125°c) at MLR of
12:1.
FACTORS NEED TO BE CONTROLED:-
Batch size
Jet type
Cloth speed
Jet pressure
Liquor circulation
Rate of heating/cooling
Concentration Of auxiliaries
Choice of compatible dye
METHOD FOR CHECKING OPTIMISATION OF
COLOUR FEEDING:-
Load machine with water and full fabric length.
Prepare dye stock and auxiliary solution.
Heat water in dye vessel and dye stock to 60°c.
Feed the stock solution to the dye vessel.
Continue to run the machine after adding dye stock for 2
min.
Now stop the machine.
Open it and take out the fabric and cut about 1 meter of it.
Give one stroke to it, hang it warp way and allow it to dry
at room temperature.
Inspect the fabric for dye distribution.
JIGGER DYEING Machine:-
This machine is used for dyeing woven fabrics.
PRECAUTIONS:-
S. NO. PARAMETERS PRECAUTIONS

1. Batch size •Weigh or measure the length accurately

•Stitch the fabric carefully
2. Loading of jigger •Avoid crease formation during loading

3. Colours/chemicals •Weigh or measure accurately

Preparation of
4. Dye-bath •Dissolve the dyestuff as per standard procedure

5. Liquor ratio •Maintain the MLR

•Automatic temperature control is essential
6. Temperature •Or Provide thermometer for manual control
•Follow suitable sequence
7. After treatment •Control time, temp & pH

8. Drying •Dry as soon as possible

 FINISHING
Any operation for improving the appearance and
usefulness of a fabric after it leaves the loom or
knitting machine.
FINISHING ON STENTER/FELT CALENDER
(CELLULOSE & PC BLEND FABRICS):-
S. No. ITEMS PARAMETERS METHODS STANDARDS ACTION
TO CHECK OF NECESSARY
CHECKING
1. Finish paste •Weighing Of •Visual
preparation auxiliaries •At least one -----
•Cooking time •Clock hour
2. Storage of •Temperature •Thermometer >80°c Adjust the
paste •Viscosity •Starch steam flow
refractometer
3. Application •Moisture •Feel or •About 6% •To look into
of finishing content of laboratory test previous
paste fabric before drying
finishing •Measurement •±10% process
•Viscosity of of time reqd. around the •Adjust the
finishing paste for flow of standard temperature
in pad-mangles paste through Adjust the
ATIRA squeeze
viscosity cup pressure
S. No. ITEMS PARAMETERS METHODS OF STANDARDS ACTION
TO CONTROL CHECKING NECESSARY
•Temperature •Thermometer •>85°c •Adjust the
•Pressure at steam flow
pad-mangles •Pressure gauge •As per •Analyse
record
standard
•Wet pick-up •Weigh the
fabric, dip in •Adjust
water & pass •65 to 75% or pressure on
through as per squeeze rolls
mangle, weigh standard for
again and the lot
calculate
•Note
consumption
against length
finished
S. No. ITEMS PARMETERS METHODS STANDARDS ACTION
TO CHECK OF NECESSARY
CHECKING
•Moisture •Moisture •Around 6% •Note steam
content of dried meter or pressure &
fabric laboratory temp. in diff.
test chambers
•Adjust speed
of steam flow
4. Expanders Before padding Visual No crease Adjustment of
mangles or formation expanders or
before fabric
stenter/felt
calendar
5. Fabric Delivery end of Measurement As fixed by Adjust the
width the machine by tape the mill width of
fabric on
stretching
device
Anticrease FINISHING:-
S. No. ITEMS PARAMETERS METHODS STANDARDS ACTION
TO CHECK OF NECESSARY
CHECKING
1. pH of cloth Universal Neutral or
for ----- indicator slightly acidic -----
finishing
2. Finishing •Mode of Add thermo-
paste addition of ----- setting resin
preparation chemicals & catalyst last
•Final volume •Measure -----
height of
solution -----
•pH •pH paper or
meter
3. Application •Moisture •Feel or
of resin content of f/c laboratory test
finishing before finishing
solution •Wet pick-up ----- -----
•Mangle •Pressure
pressure gauge
S. No. ITEMS PARAMETERS METHODS TO STANDARD ACTION
TO CHECK CHECK NECESSARY
4. Curing •Temperature •Thermometer •As fixed by •Adjust the
•Thermo paper the mill ±5% working of
heaters
•Time •Stop watch •As decided •Adjust the
•Speed by the mill speed of the
indicator machine

The fabric is padded through the resin finishing solution, dried on the stenter
and cured in the polymeriser.

The efficiency of curing can be checked as follow:-

Efficiency(%)= Nitrogen content in sample A
Nitrogen content in sample B

Sample A:- Sample of fabric after padding and drying.

Sample B:- Sample of fabric after padding ,drying ,curing and washing.
CARBONISATION:-
This process involves the treatment of PC blend fabric with 70%
sulphuric acid at room temperature. After treatment fabric was
rinsed with water, neutralised with soda ash and then washed
with water.
Important process control during carbonization:-
 Quality of the acid:- Sulphuric acid should be checked for
presence of oxidising impurities by titrating with standard
alkali.
 Conc. And Temperature of Sulphuric acid:- The loss in fibre
bundle strength is higher with increase in concentration And
temperature of sulphuric acid.
• A twaddle meter and thermometer should be provided to
measure concentration And temperature.
WEIGHT REDUCTION:-
This process involves the use of CAUSTIC SODA on polyester
& polyester containing blends to impart special aesthetic
properties to the material. 10% loss in weight is allowed.
Three variables to control:-
Temperature:- Rate of weight reduction increases with
increase in temperature. So, temperature should be carefully
controlled.
Percent Caustic Soda:- The recipe is based on volume
basis. Hence amount of chemicals and volume of bath must
be controlled accurately.
Time:- This parameter is biased on first two parameters and
weight loss level desired.
REFERENCE:-
Process and quality control in chemical processing of
textiles by ATIRA.
Internet source.
BY:-
KAPIL SINGLA