CÔNG NGHỆ HỢP CHẤT

NANO HỮU CƠ

Phần 7:
Hệ nano ứng dụng trong mỹ phẩm

PGS.TS. Lê Thị Hồng Nhan

Trường ĐH Bách khoa- ĐHQG TP.HCM

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Content

1 Introduction

1 Nano types in cosmetic

2

3 Applications

4 Conclusions

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Introduction

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3
Introduction

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Introduction

NANO IN
COSMETICS

Use of nano Nano

particles as technology
UV filters for delivery

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Nano types in cosmetics

Liposomes
Solid Lipid Nanoparticles
Transferosomes
Nanostructured Lipid Carriers
Niosomes
Dendrimers & hyperbranched
polymers
Nanoemulsion

Nanocrystal Nanoencapsules

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Liposomes
Liposomes are vesicular structures with an aqueous core
surrounded by a hydrophobic lipid bilayer, created by the
extrusion of phospholipids

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Liposomes
*Advantages:

Phospholipids are GRAS

(generally recognised as safe) ingredients

Carry both hydrophilic

and hydrophobic molecules

The ability to improve the absorption

of active ingredients by skin

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 Liposomes
The first liposomal cosmetic product
was the anti-ageing cream ‘Capture’
launched by Dior in 1986

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 Liposomes

Liposome Formulations:
•Phosphatidyl choline (egg)
• Tween 80
• Oil dye

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Liposomes

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Transfersomes

 More elastic than liposomes

 Sizes in the range of 200-300 nm can penetrate the skin
with improved efficiency than liposomes.

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 Niosomes
The first product ‘Niosome’ was introduced in 1987 by
Lancôme
 Non-ionic surfactant based vesicles
Used for the delivery of anti-inflammatory agents and anti-
infective agents.
 Niosomes do not contain GRAS
components.

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 Nanoemulsions

 Dispersions of nanoscale droplets of one liquid within

another.
 Transparent or translucent
 Components of nanoemulsions are usually GRAS

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Solid lipid nanoparticles
 SLNs are nanometre sized particles with a solid
lipid matrix
 Can be used for the controlled delivery of
cosmetic agents over a prolonged period of time and
improved skin hydration.

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 Solid lipid nanoparticles

Three limitations of the SLN system

particle
agents concentration
limitation of
expulsion
agents load maximum of
phenomenon
only 30%

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 Nanostructures lipid carirers
 NLCs created by by mixing solid lipids with liquid lipids
 Have a distorted structure -> create spaces to accommodate
active compounds.
 EX: Monostearin (MS) and stearic acid (SA) were used as
solid lipid, the oleic acid (OA) was used as liquid lipid

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Nanostructures lipid carirers
The first products containing lipid nanoparticles appeared
on the market in 2005 (Nanorepair
cream and lotion, Dr. Rimpler GmbH, Germany),

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Nanostructures lipid carirers

The composition of the formulations containing retinol. The

lipid was either Compritol 888 or Elfacos C 26, the surfactant
either Tween 80 or Miranol 32

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Nanostructures lipid carirers

The absorption spectra of NLC and a conventional

nanoemulsion
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Nanostructures lipid carirers

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Dendrimers & hyperbranched polymers
 Dendrimers

1 2 3

nanostructure branched Applications

s, around 20 symmetrical in hair care,
nm structure, like skin care and
in size a tree nail care
branching out products.
from a central
point

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Dendrimers & hyperbranched polymers

PAMAM Dendrimer

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Dendrimers & hyperbranched polymers
Hyperbranched polymers are effectively disorganised,
unsymmetrical.

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Dendrimers & hyperbranched polymers
Film-forming Care Cream Formulation:
• Polyvinyl alcohol
• Dendritic polyester
• Ethanol
• PEG 40 stearate
• Glycerol
• Glyceryl stearate
• Cetyl alcohol
• Cyclomethicone (D 5 )
• Karite oil
• Active ingredient (tocopherol)
• Perfumes
• Preservatives
25 • Deionized water
Nano crystals

- used to delivery poorly soluble

actives

- aggregate from several hundred to

tens of thousands atoms => cluster

- typical size: 10-400nm

- be stabilised to prevent larger

aggregates

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 Nano crystals

Juvena (2007): Rutin

La Prairie (2008): Hesperidin

Rutin & Hesperidin

-Poorly soluble Formulated Became
-plant glycoside anti- as dermally
oxidants nanocrytals available
-could not previously be
27 dermally
used
Nanocapsulation & controlled release

 Have a shell & an interior space that

can be load drugs
 Types depend on the nature of material
(hydrophobic or hydrophilic)
 Materials: polymers, proteins,
biomolecules…

Release by : external trigger(ultrasound, magnetic field…),

environment(pH, to,…)

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Nanocapsulation & controlled release

 Polyvinylalcohol PVA + fatty acids

(Fas)
=>polymeric nanoparticles for
cosmetic.

 Give the polymer lipophilicity & used

to test the percutaneous absorption
of Bezophenone-3(BZP).

 percutaneous absorption is highly

discouraged
=>PVA nanoparticles can limit the
adsorption
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Nanocapsulation & controlled release
 In skincare application
 Polymers can self repair: change in environment,
controlled release =>repair skin damage =>
HYDROGELS

Hydrogel facial mask:

-respond to external stimuli(pH,
temperature) to release nutrients

-turn from semi-transparent to

opaque in response to stimuli
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Nanocapsulation & controlled release

 In perfume:
- Polymer capsules release the contents
on exposure to sunlight or hot weather.

- Hollow silica nanoshells: be made

spherical polymer micro-beads for
molecular containment and slow release.

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Cubosomes

 Cubosomes are discrete, sub-

micron, nanostructured particles of
bicontinuous cubic liquid crystalline
phase

 Formed by self assembly of LC of

certain surfactants

 Controlled release of active

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Cubosomes

1 Large surface area

2 Low viscosity

Properties
3 Exist at almost any dilution level

4 High heat stability

Capable of carrying hydrophilic

5 & hydrophobic molecules
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Cubosomes
 L’Oreal, Nivia, P&G are investigating cubosomes for
cosmetic.

 Cubosomes have not yet led to products

- Cost effective for scale up
- Presence of large amounts of water during cubosomes
formation =>difficult to load water soluble actives

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Applications

UV protection

Haircare products

Skincare
products

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UV protection
Eliminating the white chalky appearance
B

Transparent,
More absorbable A C increased
by the skin aesthetic
TiO2 & ZnO appeal

D
Less greasy E Less smelly

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UV protection

Dispersing palm wax nanoparticles with

TiO2 nanoparticles =>increase SPF

produce controllable polymeric

nanocrystals of ZnO with a size
less than 35 nm
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UV protection
Broad spectrum organic UV filter

Bemotrizinol(Tinosorb S)

Bisoctrizole (Tinosorb M)

Octyl methoxycinnamate (Tinosorb OMC)

-less than 200 nm in size

-soluble in oils
-Can be used as an alternative to TiO2 and ZnO.

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Skincare products
Make the immunity system
heathy
Add Your Text

Making skin Anti-ageing

brighter
Your Concept

GOLD
Detoxicating Anti-irritation

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Skincare products
 Gold nano with 50nm size =>
absorption into skin easilly

Peroxide & free radicals are

produced in body
Þ Au is negative metal
Þ strong antioxidant

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Skincare products
- nanospheres of hyaluronic acid and
peptides
- 50-200nm liposomes
- quick penetration into the lower layers
of the skin

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Haircare products
 the first 200nm of the hair surface is softer than the
underlying layer.
=> Size of nanomaterials in haircare products is less than
200nm

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Conclusion
 These offer advantages and improved characteristics
compared with traditional formulations

 Used mainly liposomes, nanoemulsions and metal oxide

nanoparticles

 Toxicity of nanomaterials is currently the subject of an

increasing amount of research

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