Contouring
- 2. Contouring Contouring is a technique that is used to change the appearance of the face or facial features by applying the make-up using special techniques. Contouring products are available in liquid, cream or powder form and consist of highlighter, shader and blusher.
- 3. Products used to contour Blusher Blusher is used to define, add warmth and give the skin a healthy glow. Highlighter Highlighter is used to emphasise/draw attention to the area and should be two shades lighter than the foundation. Light pearlised products are effective highlighters, however are best avoided on mature skins or on hairy areas. Shader Shader is used to draw attention away from an area, therefore minimising the feature, and should be two shades darker than the foundation.
- 4. Contouring techniques Contouring can be applied to correct eyes, face shapes, chins, jaw line and noses. It is most commonly used for photographic make- up. ■ If a liquid or cream product is being used it should be applied with a damp make-up wedge before loose powder is applied. ■ If a powder based product is being used it should be applied with the contouring brush after the loose powder has been applied. Simply brush from the outer edges of the face inwards when contouring face shapes as it will produce a more natural result. (Apply blusher at the end of the make-up).
- 5. Face Shape Analysis It is important that you can decide what face shape a client has in order to decide if any corrective contouring work is needed. When deciding on the client’s face shape it is important that they are sat upright to allow you to see their face at the correct angle.
- 6. Corrective work for face shapes When performing your corrective work on the different face shapes your aim is always to produce the highly desired oval shaped face. On the following pictures you will see where highlighter, shader and blusher has been applied to produce the effect of an oval shaped face.
- 7. Oval This face shape and bone structure is thought to be ideal. It is considered to have perfect proportions. To accentuate the bone structure, apply blusher to the cheekbones, highlighter above and shader below.
- 8. Round This face shape has fuller, rounded lower cheeks and rounded corners to the forehead. It will also be shorter in length producing the round shape. A round face will need shading at the 4 corners and highlighting by applying a narrow strip down the centre of the face. Blusher should be applied high on the cheekbones and blended out to the temples. The aim is to add length to the face.
- 9. Diamond This face shape has a pointed forehead and chin. It forms a diamond shape through the cheeks and sides of the forehead. A diamond shaped face will need shading at the top of the forehead and the chin to reduce these points and highlighting at the 4 corners (temples and jaw line) to draw out. Apply blusher to the fullness of the cheeks.
- 10. Oblong This face is long and narrow in shape. The aim is to reduce the length of the face and create width. Apply shader to the tip of the chin and the top of the forehead. Highlighter should be applied to the temples and lower jaw. Blend the blusher out along the cheekbones, towards the ears.
- 11. Pear/triangle This face shape has a narrow forehead and wide, prominent lower jaw, thus producing a triangle/pear shaped face. The aim is to create width to the forehead and to reduce the width of the lower face. Shade at the fullness of the lower cheek and highlighting along the sides of the forehead to draw out, therefore having a balancing effect. Apply blusher along the cheekbones, towards the temples.
- 12. Square This face appears square in shape due to the bone structure being angular. The forehead is broad and has a corresponding jaw line. The aim is to soften the angles and reduce width from the forehead and lower jaw. Apply shader to the four corners. Blusher should be applied under the cheeks, towards the temples.
- 13. Heart This shaped face has a wider forehead and a narrow jaw, which forms a point. A widows peak in the hairline will often accompany this face shape. This face shape will need shading at the sides of the forehead and the point of the chin. Highlighting should be applied to the angles of the jaw to aim to fill out this area. Apply blusher to the fullness of the cheeks.