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Waves and Water Dynamics

This chapter discusses different types of waves including internal waves caused by density differences, splash waves from landslides or icebergs, seismic sea waves (tsunamis) caused by seafloor movement, tides from gravitational forces, and ship wakes. It describes the characteristics of progressive, orbital, deep water, transitional, and shallow water waves. Key concepts covered include wave generation, speed, height, energy, interference patterns, refraction, reflection, and breaking waves in the surf zone. Tsunamis are discussed as having long wavelengths and behaving as shallow water waves, with the potential for large sea level rises and destruction when reaching shore.

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160 views37 pages

Waves and Water Dynamics

This chapter discusses different types of waves including internal waves caused by density differences, splash waves from landslides or icebergs, seismic sea waves (tsunamis) caused by seafloor movement, tides from gravitational forces, and ship wakes. It describes the characteristics of progressive, orbital, deep water, transitional, and shallow water waves. Key concepts covered include wave generation, speed, height, energy, interference patterns, refraction, reflection, and breaking waves in the surf zone. Tsunamis are discussed as having long wavelengths and behaving as shallow water waves, with the potential for large sea level rises and destruction when reaching shore.

Uploaded by

MULLAI
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
Available Formats
Download as PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd

CHAPTER 8

Waves and Water Dynamics


Wave Generation
• Disturbing force
• Interface of fluids with different densities

• Air – ocean interface

• Air – air interface

• Water – water interface


Types of Waves
Internal Waves

• Associated with
pycnocline
• Larger than surface
waves
• Caused by tides,
turbidity currents,
winds, ships
• Possible hazard for
submarines
Other Types of Waves
• Splash wave
– Coastal landslides, calving icebergs
• Seismic sea wave or tsunami
– Sea floor movement
• Tides
– Gravitational attraction among Moon, Sun,
and Earth
• Wake
– Ships

© 2011 Pearson Education, Inc.


Energy in Ocean Waves
Progressive Waves
• Progressive waves oscillate uniformly and
progress without breaking
– Longitudinal
– Transverse
– Orbital
Orbital Waves
Orbital Wave Characteristics
• Wave steepness = H/L
– If wave steepness > 1/7, wave
breaks
• Wave period (T) = time for one
wavelength to pass fixed point
• Wave frequency = inverse of
period or 1/T
© 2011 Pearson Education, Inc.
Orbital Wave Characteristics

• Diameter of orbital motion decreases


with depth of water
• Wave base = ½ L
Circular Orbital Motion
Deep-Water Waves
• Water depth is greater than wave base (>½L)
• Wave speed = celerity (C)
• C = L/T
• C = 1.25√L
• C = 1.56T
Speed of Deep Water Waves
Transitional Waves
• Characteristics of both deep- and shallow-water waves
• Celerity depends on both water depth and wavelength
Shallow-Water Waves
• Water depth is < ½0L
• C (meters/sec) = 3.13 √ d(meters)
• Where d is water depth
Wind-Generated Wave Development

• Capillary waves • Trochoidal waveforms


– Wind generates stress - Increased energy,
on sea surface pointed crests
• Gravity waves
– Increasing wave energy
Global Wave Heights
Maximum Wave Height
Sea and Swell
• Sea or sea area – where wind-driven waves are
generated
• Swell – uniform, symmetrical waves originating
from sea area
Wave Energy
• Fully developed sea
– Maximum wave height, wavelength for
particular fetch, speed, and duration of
winds at equilibrium conditions
• Swell
– Uniform, symmetrical waves that travel
outward from storm area
– Long crests
– Transport energy long distances
Wave Train Movement
Wave Interference Patterns
Waves in Surf Zone
• Surf zone – zone of breaking waves near
shore
• Shoaling water – water becoming
gradually more shallow
• When deep water waves encounter
shoaling water less than ½ their
wavelength, they become transitional
waves.
Waves Approaching Shore
Three Types of Breakers
a) Spilling
b) Plunging
c) Surging
Wave Refraction
Wave Refraction
• Wave energy
unevenly
distributed on
shore
• Orthogonal lines
or wave rays –
drawn
perpendicular to
wave crests
Wave Reflection
Standing Waves
Tsunami Characteristics
• Long wavelengths

• Behaves as a shallow-water wave

• Speed proportional to water depth


Tsunami
Tsunami Destruction
• Sea level can rise up to 40 meters (131 feet)
when a tsunami reaches shore.
Tsunami
• Most occur in Pacific
Ocean
– More earthquakes and
volcanic eruptions
• Damaging to coastal
areas
• Loss of human lives
Historical LargeTsunami
Tsunami Warning System
• Pacific Tsunami
Warning Center
(PTWC) – Honolulu, HI
• Deep Ocean
Assessment and
Reporting of Tsunami
(DART)
End of CHAPTER 8
Waves and Water Dynamics

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