Loop Control®
The innovative needle geometry
A perfectly formed loop is the basis for flawless and high quality seams, which
are significantly influenced by the geometry of the sewing machine needle
employed.
Groz-Beckert's unique Loop Control® needle geometry is an intelligent
solution for lockstitching and chainstitching. Secure loop formation minimizes
skipped stitches and the sewing thread is treated with maximum care thanks
to the special geometry of the groove. Moreover, the Loop Control® geometry
of the needle gives it better stability and the needle deflects less, leading to
less needle breakage and less damage to points.
All told, the Loop Control® geometry boosts the stability of the sewing
process, thereby leading to increased productivity.
GEBEDUR®
The titanium nitride coating
Demanding sewing processes, such as the stitching of hard materials or
combinations of materials, often lead to premature wear of sewing machine
needles.
The special GEBEDUR® coating from Groz-Beckert gives the needle a higher
degree of hardness. The titanium nitride coating makes the needle more
wear-resistant, particularly protecting against damage around the point and
eye. This extends the service life of the needle, ultimately leading to
consistently high seam quality and increased productivity.
1. Manual sewing of collar making
The most basic one is the manual sewing wherein one ply (shell fabric) is
sewn over the other ply (fused fabric) with Single Needle Lock Stitch machine
and the edges are cut with vertical edge trimming attachment.
The trimming can be done simultaneously or cut separately. This technology
is mostly used in medium-sized factories as it requires very less investment
on machines. It also justifies with the order quantity. It is very suitable for
lighter fabrics or sensitive fabrics as stitching collars out of them will depend
on the skill of the operator. The time taken is much more and there is a lack of
consistency in the quality of the stitch, making it more susceptible to defects.
#2. Making collar using Auto Jig and Template
The next level of sewing collar is the use of jig which is a template having
slots through which the sewing will follow automatically on feeding it to the
sewing needle, thus eliminating the need for a human hand in the process.
With this, there is a consistent stitch throughout the bulk which makes it
suitable for a large quantity of order. Only dimensionally stable fabrics can be
used as no human hand will be there for adjustments with stretch in the fabric.
Jig templates are not suitable when the order quantity is low as it will require
the making of the templates for each and every order.
3. Collar run stitch using multiple jigs
The third level is the use of multiple jigs or the large area jig template sewing.
Here the template remains constant and the sewing machine moves
according to the jig slot. Since the machine moves along the jig, more than
one number of machines can be synchronised to move if placed next to each
other. It is an upgrade from the single jig and again it is most efficient with
huge order quantities. The advantages and disadvantages are same as above
but the productivity is much higher than the above. It is expensive as a
different setup is required thus making it inaccessible for medium-sized
factories.
4. Full automatic collar run stitch machine
Finally, the most advanced method is the complete automation in collar
sewing. There will be a set of machines which will be responsible for complete
sewing of the collar and everything will be automatic. The setups are also able
to change stitch length at the corners to make the seam stronger. The jig
sizes are adjusted automatically which effectively reduces the frequency and
cost of changing the jig. Not many factories are seen using this method but it
has a huge potential for contributing to Industry4.0. (Sarkar, 2018) (Sarkar,
2018)1
ELASTIC IN CUFF
Manual: In the traditional method, helper measure the elastic, mark on it and
cut the elastic manually. In the next operation, a zig-zag or lockstitch or
overlock machine is used for joining the two ends of the elastic. When you join
two ends of an elastic, it should be butt seam. To maintain even thickness of
the waistband overlapping of the elastic ends is avoided while ends are joined
together. The Zig-zag sewing machine is used for this operation.
Automatic: Now an automatic elastic sewing machine is available, which can
cut and join the elastic operation. By using this machine, garment
manufacturing factories can reduce manpower and improve productivity for
this operation. Factories who is doing mass production of ladies leggings and
briefs can use this automatic workstation.
HEM STITCHING
Manual: The traditional method adapted by majority of factories for bottom/sleeve
hemming operations includes picking up component, placing, aligning, manipulating,
positioning, sewing followed by manipulating and guiding to complete the operation.
Practically only one machine can be assigned to one operator.
Automatic- can sew different fabrics and adjust outseam widths. Automatically control
the start/end points of stitching through exact scanning with electronic sensor and
and measurement arrangement of stitching length.
SHOULDER ATTACHMENT
Level 1 –Manual
Level 2- Folder
Level 3
1
(Sarkar, 2018)
The traditional method adapted by majority of factories for bottom/sleeve hemming
operations includes picking up component, placing, aligning, manipulating,
positioning, sewing followed by manipulating and guiding to complete the operation.
Practically only one machine can be assigned to one operator.
Finishing:
It is the process of value addition / Improvisation on the garment and making it presentable visually to
satisfy the customer’s perspective of Good Quality and Appearance.The following processes constitute
the Finishing department:
Thread Trimming
Manual
Automatic
UNISUN THREAD TRIMMER MACHINE.
THIS IS 100%TAIWAN MADE.
DIRECT DRIVE ,BRUSHLESS MOTOR.
SEPARATE VACUM MOTOR TO SUCKS THE WASTE THREADS
NO DAMAGES ON THE FABRICS
HIGH PRODUCTIVITY
WASHING:
Infection Barrier Washer Extractors High Spin. Soft Mount. Stainless Steel Cabinet. Computer Controlled.
30, 50, 60, 100 & 120 kg. Capacity.
Micro Computer. Upto 99 Programs. All programable. Captures all the features for any customized
process. Preset programs can be easily modified. LCD display provides cycle advance, variable time
signal & diagnostic checks. Easy to operate.
Single motor variable frequency drive ( VFD ) gets all precision speeds required for washing, distribution,
low & normal spin. The energy efficient drive consumes less energy & reduces electric peak load
demands.
5 Compartment Dispenser Five different chemicals can be placed in plastic containers in powder, liquid
or gel form. Powerful jets completely flush out the chemicals as and when signaled by the computer.
Optional : Liquid chemical supply connections for automatic Dozing Pumps.
Electro-Pneumatic / Electro Magnetic Powerful Brake applies automatically as the machine stops.
Activates instantly at the time of alignment of inner cylinder door with the outer drum door. Self
adjusting brake liners. Easily adjustable brake pressure. Fail safe.
Self Unloading:
Hydraulic forward tilt on the 120 kg machine till it drops the entire load into a trolley in less than 30
seconds. Saving on time and labour.
Inside Checking & Quality Checking
Ironing
Top Side Checking, Measurement and Quality Checking
Attaching Finishing and Packing Trims
Packing
