“Sewn Products Machinery and Equipment - II (Pre &

Post Production Machines & Equipment)”

Project submitted to the National Institute of Fashion

Technology

BACHELOR OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY

By
SUGANYA A
R. No: BFT/20/1287

SATHVIKA

R.NO:BFT/20/504

UNDER THE GUIDENCE OF

Prof. Gangadhar malik

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY

IDOC Plot No -24

Opp. KIIT School of Management
Chandaka Industrial Estate,
Bhubaneswar – 751024
Odisha
 CONTENTS:-

FABRIC DETAILS
TECHNOLOGY LEVELS USED IN :-

 FABRIC INSPECTION
 PATTERN MAKING
 MARKER MAKING
 SPREADING
 CUTTING
 FUSING
 ASSEMBLY LINE
 FINISHING AND SHIPMENT
 SHIRT DETAILS
PRODUCT SELECTED : FORMAL CHECKED SHIRT

COMPANY : FRENCH CROWN

FABBRIC TYPE – 100% COTTON

TYPE OF FABRIC – WOVEN

GSM OF THE FABRIC -100 TO 150

CARE INSTRUCTION – HAND WASH RECOMMENDED

THREAD SIZE -100 TO 110 M

NEEDLE SIZE -70/10 OR 80/12

COLOUR - WHITE AND BLACK CHECKED

SWATCH SAMPLE
SHIRT IMAGES
 SEWING MACHINES USED
SINGLE NEEDLE LOCKSTITCH MACHINE
APPLICATIONS:
Collar run stitch (top and in part)
Collar outline
Collar band hem
Collar and collar band attach
Collar band
Cuff hem
Cuff outline
Placket Attach to front + placket
close Main label attach to back part
Yoke attach to back part
Shoulder Joint
Shoulder top stitch
Collar joint to body
Collar Closed
Collar to Stitch
Cuff attach to
sleeve
A single needle lock stitch machine is called a plain needle sewing machine. A single needle lock
stitch machine is mostly used as an industrial sewing machine. Modern single needle lockstitch has
a thread trimmer that operates at the highest speed of its kind. Lockstitch machine is the most
commonly used sewing machine in the apparel industry, especially in woven garments.
Single Needle Lock Stitch machine or SNLS is used only for lock stitch that is the stitches of Class
300. But it cannot produce all the stitches of this class. This machine is widely used in theapparel
industry. This is the only machine by which an entire garment can be stitched.

FEATURES:
Two thread need for a machine, one for needle and another one for bobbin
Needle thread set in the upper side of fabric and bobbin thread set in the lower side of thefabric
in stitch
Stitching type only lock stitch
Less noise, low vibration, no radiation, and environment-friendly
Sewing Shirts, Jackets, Suits, Over-coats, Bed covers, Curtains, Children’s Clothes, Bags,
leather, Wool, Chemical fiber, and Canvas.
 COMPANY: JUKI
MODEL: DDL-7000A
DIRECT DRIVE, FLAT BED, DROP FEED MECHANISM MACHINE

SPECIFICATIONS:
Stitch class: 300
Stitch style: 301
Number of needles: 1
Max. Sewing speed: 5,500sti/minMax.
Stitch length: 7mm
Presser foot by knee: 13mmThread
take-up: Link type Needle bar
stroke: 35mm
Weight of the machine head: 34kg
Motor type: Direct drive

DOUBLE NEEDLE LOCKSTITCH

MACHINE APPLICATIONS:
Cuff Top Stitch
Armhole Top Stitch
A double-needle lockstitch machine works on the same principle as the single needle lockstitch
machine by using two needles and two bobbins thus resulting in two parallel rows of lockstitch.
This technique of twin needle sewing is also popularly known as double-needle sewing. The
distance between the two stitch lines depends upon the distance between the two needles on the
needle bar which can be adjusted.
The double-needle lockstitch is the tightest and most secure stitch which makes it a good choice for
stitching the inseam of trousers. It also sews box pockets on safari jackets, light jeans and pajamas
and Suitable for sewing Shirts, Uniforms, Jeans and Women Underwear.

FEATURES:
Stitches are produced by interlocking.It
has two needles and two bobbins.
Lockstitch sewing machine is very fast
Bobbin, needle bar, and bobbin case are present in this machineThreads
and needle bar are supplied from the cone.
Stitch Class: 300
 COMPANY: JUKI
MODEL: LH-3528A
FLAT BED, NEEDLE FEED MECHANISM MACHINE

SPECIFICATIONS:
Stitch style: 301
Number of: 2
Max. Sewing speed: 3,000sti/min
Max. Stitch length: 5mm
Presser foot by knee: 17mmMotor
type: Direct drive

FEED OF THE ARM MACHINE MACHINE

APPLICATIONS:
Side seam
under arm
The feed of the arm machine is actually a chain stitch machine for chain stitch designs working
with sewing and stitch. It contains a looper instead of a bobbin. By this machine, a multi-thread
chain stitch can be produced on garments. With this machine, stitch can be produced on heavy
fabrics, like denim or jeans; it has the opportunity of stitching by folding the fabrics.
Different sizes of needle and thread dresses should be used in this machine depending on the
thickness of fabric, for light thickness fabrics needle size should be lower and for heavy thickness
fabric, a higher needle size should be used.

FEATURES:
A multi-thread chain can be formed by this machine.
It has the opportunity of stitching by folding the fabrics.
The needle thread is interconnected with looper thread.
Its appearance is different on the face and back side.
Adjustable sewing machine sew and stitch.
Sewing machine needle sizes should be well
fitted.
 COMPANY: JUKI MODEL: MS-
1261 CHAIN STITCH MACHIne

SPECIFICATION

Stitch class: 400

Circumference of the tube at the
needle entry: 190mm
Number of needles: 3
Max. Sewing speed: 3,600sti/min
Max. Stitch length: 1.4-4.2mm
Presser foot By knee: 10mm
motor type: Servo

KANSAI PLACKET SEWING MACHINEFLAT BED, PULLER FEED

APPLICATIONS:
Front placket make and attach

FEATURES:
Stitches are produced by different techniques.
Kansai portable sewing machines have a puller feed mechanism on mid-heavy and heavy-
weight fabric.
Kansai portable sewing machine produces durable and uniform stitches on mid-heavy and
heavy-weight fabrics.
It has multi needles.
Kansai portable sewing machines may be
flatbed or cylinder bed.
Sewing machine repair is simple and easy

SPECIFICATIONS:
Motor: Direct Drive
Max Sewing Speed: 4500 Stitch/min
Power 300 W
Max Stitch Length: 5mm
Needle bar Stroke: 36.5mm
Number of Threads: 6
BUTTON HOLE MACHINE
Buttonholes are holes in fabric that are paired with functional buttons that serve as fastenersand
as decorative buttons.

FEATURES:
They are normally stitched when the garment is finished.
The simplest buttonholes are used on shirts, blouses, and other lightweight garments.
The complex buttonholes are preferred for all tailored garments such as jackets, overcoats,
etc.
Based on the principle of a lock stitch or chain stitch.
Chain stitched -good appearance and less durability.
Lock stitch -increased life and less attractive appearance than the chain stitch.

COMPANY: JUKI
MODEL: LBH-1790

SPECIFICATIONS:
Automatic Grade: Automatic
Max Sewing Speed: 3000-4000
(stitch/min) Motor: Servo
Power: 550W
Sewing Speed: 4,200sti/min
Size of Cloth Cutting Knife:
6.4~31.8mm Buttonhole Length: Max.
41mm
Number of Standard Patterns: 31 patterns
Number of Patterns that can be input:
Max. 99 patterns

BUTTON STITCHING MACHINE

Button stitching machine is a special type of machine which is used in garments industries to attach
buttons so it is called button attaching machine. This type of machine works for stitching shirt
buttons in a cycle and so these are also called simple auto machine. The button attaching machine is
closely related to the Button Hole Machine.

FEATURES:
It is a simple automatic m/c.
Button positioning can be automatic.
Sewing is according to the hole in the button & may be cross or parallel.
Automatic feeding of the shirt buttons
Stitch type: lock stitch or chain stitch may be used.
 COMPANY: JUKI MODEL:
LBH-1790 LOCKSTITCH
MACHINE

SPECIFICATIO
NS:
Automation Grade: Automatic
Number of Stitches: 8, 16 and 32 stitches
Max Sewing Speed: 1200-1500 stitch/min
Feed length: 2.5-6.5 mm
Feed length lengthwise feed: 0-6.5 mm
Applicable button: Shank button,
Wrapped-around button, Snap, Label,
Metal button, Stay button (exclusive attachments)
Button size: 10-28mm
The thickness of button: 1.8-3.5mm
Group: Lockstitch
Needle size: 9, 11,14,18,21
Thread per inch: Per pressure 54
Seam class: Superimposed

ATTACHMENTS
BUTTON AND BUTTONHOLE MACHINE ATTACHMENTS:

Collar band button stitch guild (601): Attachment for without marking buttoning on thecollar
band.

Collar tip/point buttonhole stitch guild (603): Attachment for collar point buttonhole.

Collar down button stitch gauge (604): Attachment for button-down collar buttoning. Many
varieties are available for different requirements.

Cuff button stitch guild (605): Attachment for buttoning of cuff without marking.

Button stitch spacing gauge (607): Attachment for button stitch spacing gauge.
 Technology Levels in Post – Production Process
Finishing
o In garments industry, finishing is a process which consists of pressing or ironing, folding and
packing of garments. Among them, by pressing were move unwanted crease or wrinkles from
garments. Again foldingis done by ironing
Packaging
o Packaging means wrapping, compressing, filling or creating of goods for the purpose of
protection of goods and their convenient handling.
 FINISHING
• Thread
Trimming
– Uncut threads and thread tails in garments are trimmed in the finishing
• Checking garments
– Checking is done for garment detailing, such as care labelling, and trims.
• Button attach and Butting holing
– Products those have trimming like button, snap button, eyelets are attached
• Removing stains
– Spots are removed using a hand spot gun or by using a stain removing machine prior to pressing.
• Repair work and mending
– All repair activities are done in finishing itself instead of sending defective garments to stitching
• Ironing garments
– This is done to remove creases in the garment
• Folding and tagging
– Pressed garments are folded in a specified dimension, price tags and hang tags are attached to the
garment by meansof a kimble gun or threads
• Packing garments
– Properly folded garments are packed into poly bags
• Preparation of packing list
– After packing is completed for an order, the finishing department informs the concerned merchant.
• Internal shipment audits
– Quality department perform internal shipment audit in the finishing
• Documentation and reporting
– Finishing department maintain production records for pressing, and packing.
PACKAGING

• Single piece packing

• Blister Packing

• Solid Packing

– Packing, the carton box will include garments of a singlecolor and same size

• Ratio Packing

– The carton box includes garments of the same color but ofdifferent sizes according to the ratio

• Mixed Packing

– carton box includes garments of different colors but of same size or garments with different
colors and differentsizes in a particular ratio form