FABRICS
Fabric is made by interlacing or interloping of yarns or fibers.
There are mainly three types of fabrics and they are woven, knitted and non-woven fabric.
Woven fabric is made by weaving process with the help of a loom. Knitted fabric is made by
knitting process with the help of a knitting machine or by hand method like crochet. Non-
woven fabrics are made by felting or bonding fibres together.
FABRIC CONSTRUCTION METHODS
1. Weaving
Weaving is the common method of fabric construction. Two
sets of yarns, warp & weft are used in loom to make to make woven fabrics.
Weaving is the interlacing of warp and weft yarns. Warp yarn is used length wise and
weft yarn is used width wise.
Woven fabrics are manufactured in a loom. There are two basic
types of loom - hand loom & power loom.
In a loom the warp threads are placed in position while the filling threads are
woven through them. Four major operations are involved in weaving.
Shedding: Each alternate warp yarn is raised to insert the filling yarn into the warp
to form a shed.
Picking: As the warp is raised, the filling yarn is inserted through the shed by a
carrier device.
Beating up (Battening): With each picking operation, the reed pushes or beats
each filling yarn against the portion of the fabric that has already been formed.
Taking up and letting off: Winding the finished fabric on the cloth beam and
releasing more of the warp from the warp beam.
There are different types of woven fabric structures like plain
weave, twill weave, satin weave, basket weave etc. Plain weave is used to make fabrics
that are normally used to make shirts and Kurtis. Twill weave is used to make fabrics
that are normally used to make Jeans.
Types of Weaves: - There are three basic weaves – Plain, Twill and Satin. There are
so many variations of these weaves which creates different appearance of fabric.
a) Plain Weave: - It is the simplest method of fabric construction. It is also termed as
calico weave. In a plain weave, each warp yarn passes alternatively over one weft
and then under the second weft yarn. The fabric looks alike on both sides. Stripes
or checks can be created using different colored yarns in warp and weft direction.
The two main variations of the plain weave are Basket weave, Rib weave.
b) Twill Weave: - Twill weaves can be easily identified by its general characteristic of
diagonal lines in either warp or weft direction. The filling yarn interlace more than
one warp yarns, in a progressively stepped up or stepped down manner. This forms
the diagonal patterns in the fabric. The direction of the twill can be varied to create
interesting effects such as right-hand twill weave, left hand twill weave, broken twill
weave, pointed twill, herringbone etc. The most commonly known twill is the denim
or jeans fabric. It is a very strong and durable weave.
c) Satin Weave: - Satin weave is characterized by a smooth and shiny fabric surface.
In satin weave, warp yarns floats over the weft yarns., If the weft yarns floats over
warp yarns, then it is known as ‘sateen’. It requires 5-12 harness to make this
weave.
2. Knitting
Knitted fabrics are made by interloping of yarns. Length wise
yarns are called wales and width wise yarns are called course. Normally there are
two types of knitted fabrics like weft knit and warp knit.
3. Non-Woven
Non – woven fabrics are made directly from fibers. They are
produced by bonding or interlocking fibers by mechanical, chemical, thermal, using
solvents, or combinations of these processes. Non-woven fabrics are lighter in weight
and weaker compared to woven or knitted fabrics. Cotton, rayon, polyester etc. fibres
are used to make non-woven fabrics. These are used to make surgical and industrial
masks, bandages, wipes and towels. Sometimes non-woven fabrics are also used to
make packing materials, geo-textiles and roofing products.
Types of Non-woven- Fabrics
a) Felting: - Layers of fibers (wool or wool blends) are laid down with a desired
thickness and run through hot agitating plates that blend the fibers together. Felts
are not as strong as other fabrics and vary in quality depending on the quality of the
fiber used. Felt has many industrial and clothing uses. It is used industrially for
padding, soundproofing, insulation etc. Felt has wide use in such products as hats,
slippers and clothing decorations.
b) Braid: - Braids are narrow fabrics made by interlacing of yarns length wisely. They
have good elongation characteristics. Braids can be flat or round. Braids are used
primarily for trims, shoelaces, cords, ribbons, cord coverings of industrial products
like wires, cables, hoses etc.
c) Net: - Net are open-mesh fabrics with geometrical shapes. The fibers or yarns are
held together by knots or fusing of thermoplastic fibers. The net mesh can be in
varying shapes and sizes. This process produces tubular nets which are used for
packaging fruit and vegetables, agricultural nets, bird nets, mosquito nets etc.
d) Lace: - Lace is another basic fabric made from yarns. Yarns may be inter looped,
interlaced or knotted to give open-mesh structure. Beautiful decorative designs can
be created through lace making. Laces are very important trimmings that are used to
decorate a garment. Handmade or machine made on special lace machines, laces
are used
TRIMS AND ACCESSORIES
Apparel manufacturing is the main goal of textile manufacturing
processes. Trimmings, and accessories have great importance in garments manufacturing.
The main difference between trimming and accessories is, trimmings are used for functional
purposes, and accessories are used for decorative purposes.
1. Trims: - The raw materials used in sewing other than fabric are called Trims. In other
words, materials are directly attached to the fabric for the construction of a garment, are
called trims.
E.g., Threads, buttons, lining, Interlining, zippers, labels, care labels, etc. (Interlining is
used as shape forming/preserving materials).
Trims Used in Garments
Labels String/Draw Cord Weaving Belt
Buttons Piping Cord Hook and Eye
Zippers Emblem Velcro Tape
Padding Logo Print Seam Sealing tape
Interlining Swivel Hook Shoulder pad
Down Eyelet/ Grommet Cable (steel ware)
Elastic Collar Stay Adjuster
Thread Cord Bell Recco
Twill Tape Buckle Elastic Threads
Stopper Rivet Shoulder Tape
2. Garment accessories: - Accessories are not directly attached with garment by sewing.
The materials, which are used to make a garment attractive for sale and packing, other than
fabrics and trims, are called accessories.
Garment Accessories
Polybag Gum Tape Size Stickers
Elastic bag Arrow Sticker Carton Pad
Mini Polybag Scotch Tape Both Side Tape
Master Carton Barcode Plastic Staple
Inner Carton Defect Indicator Iron Seal
Size Clip Tissue Paper Clip
P.P. Band Backboard Ball chain
Tag Pin Neck Board Size Tag
Brass Pin Butterfly Carton Sticker
Collar Stand Numbering Stickers Safety Sticker
Safety Pin Hanger Plastic Clip
Difference between Trims and Accessories
No. Subject Trimmings Accessories
The materials which are not
The materials which are attached to the body of
Technical attached to the body of garments by sewing, only used
1
Definition garments by sewing are for garments finishing and
termed trimmings. packing are termed as
accessories
Trimmings are the ultimate Accessories are the ultimate
Non-Technical materials that are attached materials that are not attached
2
Definition to the garments while using to the clothing while using by the
by the end-users. end-users.
Trimmings are used for Accessories are used for
3 Key Point
functional purposes. decorative purposes.
Sewing Thread, Button,
4 Example Carton, Gum Tape, Polybag etc.
Interlining, etc.
