Garment Over Dye Orders SOPs
Fabric Inspection Section -SOPs
1.Color wise roll allocation planning by Fabric inspection team
For e.g., if an order has 4 colors as per below
4000 PCS+ 3000 PCS + 1500 PCS + 1500 PCS =10000 PCS i.e., 15000 yds
(considering yy=1.5 yds/ gmt)
out of which,2nd and 4th colors are critical in dying, first rolls have to be allocated for
these colors
3000 x 1.2 = 3600 YDS x 1.2 = 4300 yds out of which – 3600 allocated
1500 .2 = 1800 YDS x 1.2 = 2200 yds out of which – 1800 allocated
Then, will dye the balance 2 colors to complete the allocation.
(Shade band dying - prefer to do it in bulk machine, if the same color is running.
otherwise, dye it using sample machine.)
2.Shade and Shrinkage Blanket Process
Fabric head ends of 100% rolls mentioning the respective roll number should be taken.
Each Head end should be Cut into 6 panels following the dimension of 10inch x 10 inch
minimum each.
2 panels will be kept for revised color allocation, if required and the balance 4 panels
should be sent for dying with roll numbers mentioned, based on the above allocation
plan done.
After dying, panels of each roll should be checked under approved light source to do the
shade grouping based on the dye absorption
After shade grouping, each group representative swatch is approved by quality senior
management and counter signed by washing and merchandising.
Same way shrinkage % of each rolls are checked and, fabric shade & shrinkage & width
report is released by fabric inspection team.
CAD department SOPs;
Cut Plan by CAD department should do Cut plan for the whole order based on fabric in
house qty & fabric grouping report,color wise to optimize the fabric utilization.
The final cut plan should be approved by PPC/ Merchant team.
Based on approved cut plan, Bulk Cutting markers should be issued.
Cutting department SOPs:
Cutting should follow the approved cut plan and take markers form CAD to relax the
fabrics accordingly.
After proper relaxation, fabric spreading & cutting should be done and the roll sticker
should be fixed on the reverse of each lay sheet for future reference.
Also, the end bits of each roll should be kept separately mentioning the accurate roll
number for part replacement
Numbering & bundling should be done based on roll shade wise and the shade
reference should be clearly mentioned on the bundle clearly based on lay sheet.
This will help to trace back, if required.
If Stitching thread is RFD thread across all colors, then, cutting should use different color
numbering stickers for different color for easy identification in sewing lines
Sewing section SOPs
Color identification is required. Best method is use DTM thread for stitching. If not,
follow the respective color numbering sticker to trace or replace sewing parts in the
sewing lines.
Every garment should be attached with shade reference label per grouping report for
easy traceability.
Avoid using any kind of marking pen / chalk for marking purpose without approval.
Proper reinforcements for tear prone areas should be given to avoid damages
Proper care should be given to take care of sewing trims tinting / damage during dying
process.
An Pre-approved sample (signed by washing & QA head) should be there to follow, how
to send the garments for dying. All garments should be sent to wash only as per
approved requirement.
In end line output area, garments should be segregated color wise before sending for
dying.
Washing Department SOPs:
Each color, first bulk shade band approval should be taken from QAD/ merchant before
submitting to the customers.
Approved shade band garments -half leg will be sent to finishing for follow up and the
remaining half to be retained in washing for further lots inspection purpose.
Then, bulk washed garments should be checked against the approved standard and to
ensure that only approved shades are dispatched to finishing.
After that, subsequent lots closely monitor for any additional shades to take prior
approval before sending to finishing.
Whatever shades not accepted will go for rework and then final approval before sending
Dye lots Testing - Each and every lot to be tested in lab for the below parameters.
1.. pH
2. Tear strength
3. Color Fastness in the lab.
Also, a third-party lab testing and correlation is suggested for critical colors
All approved sample counters to be kept safely covered in black polybag to avoid any
kind of distortion.
Finishing Section SOPs
Finishing should do random wash audit of each receipts -color wise on arrival.
If audit is finding, more than 5% of defects, then the lot is failed.
Wash audit should focus on shade bands, hand feel, damages and any other wash
related defects.
If audit failed, QA -GM should decide next the course of action along with washing team
100% garments should be checked against the approved shade band before packing.
