Khaled Meselhy 27/10/2024

Lecture 4
Essential oils definitions, methods of
preparations, safety in the skin care
products & perfumes natural sources

VOLATILE, ETHEREAL or ESSENTIAL OILS

▪ "Volatile" or "ethereal": as they easily
evaporate on exposure to air at room
temperature (volatile, from the Latin "volare"
i.e. to fly & ethereal = ether-like in their
volatility)

▪ "Essential": as they mostly represent the

"essences" or principal active principles of
the plants in which they occur.

They differ entirely from "fixed oils“ in both

chemical & physical properties.
2

1
Khaled Meselhy 27/10/2024

Variation in composition of v. oils from

different organs of the same plant
1. Cinnamon tree:
→ bark oil rich in cinnamaldehyde
→ leaf oil rich in eugenol
→ root oil rich in camphor

2. Bitter orange tree:

→ "Bitter orange oil": from the fresh pericarp of the
fruit (rind or zest),
→ "Neroli oil": from the flowers
→ "Petit grain oil": from the leaves, twigs & unripe
fruits.

These oils are different in composition & aroma

3

Methods of Preparation of Volatile Oils

Distillation Scarification & Expression Extraction Enzymatic

Hydrolysis
Water Distillation Sponge Method Extraction with Volatile
Solvents
Steam Distillation Ecuelle a piquer
Method Extraction with Non-Volatile
Solvents
Water & Steam Expression of Rasping Process
Distillation Enfleurage Method
Machine Processes Pneumatic Method
Direct Steam
Maceration Method
Distillation

2
Khaled Meselhy 27/10/2024

5 [Link]

Distillation
Hydro-distillation

Steam Distillation

[Link] Steam distillation

6
Water distillation
6

3
Khaled Meselhy 27/10/2024

[Link]
Scarification & Expression

[Link]
Scarification Process (Ecuelle a Piquer): Ecuelle a
piquer is a specially designed apparatus first introduced in
France, a large bowl with inner pointed metal needles long Rasping Process: In this process the outer surface of
enough to penetrate only the epidermis for pricking the the peel of citrous fruits containing the oil gland is
outer surface of citrus fruits. The lower stem of the skillfully removed by a grater.
apparatus serve as a receiver for the oil The ‘raspings’ are now placed in horsehair bags and
Now, the freshly washed lemons are placed in the bowl pressed strongly so as to ooze out the oil stored in the
and rotated repeatedly when the oil glands are punctured oil glands. Initially, the liquid has a turbid appearance
(scarified) thereby discharging the oil right into the lower but on allowing it to stand the oil separates out which
stem. may be decanted and filtered subsequently.
Scarification Rasping
7

[Link]
Extraction Typical Enfleurage Set-up

[Link]
[Link]
They are created when carrier (fixed oils) are used as solvents to Enfleurage is one of the oldest methods of essential oil
extract therapeutic properties from plant material. extraction that implements the use of fat. By the end
The ideal plant material to be infused will be harvested so that it is as of this process, either vegetable fat or animal fat becomes
dry as possible, as any plant moisture will cause the oil to become infused with the flower’s fragrance compounds. The fats
rancid and will encourage microbial growth. Adding 5% of Vitamin E that are used are odorless and solid at room temperature.
oil or Wheatgerm oil (which is high in Vitamin E) will prevent The fat that is saturated with fragrance is called
rancidity. "enfleurage pomade."
8
Maceration Enfleurage
8

4
Khaled Meselhy 27/10/2024

Selection of the suitable method is done

according to :

1. The condition of the plant material (moisture

content, degree of comminution)

2. The localization of the oil in the plant (superficial or

deep)

3. The amount of the oil

4. The nature of the oil constituents

Process Applications Advantages Disadvantages

Distillation Suitable for dried & fresh material, rich Cheapest method High temperature &
in volatile oils with constituents mostly (apparatus, solvent & presence of water may
unaffected by heat (thermostable) source of heat) affect the constituents.
as mentha & rosemary

Scarification Suitable for preparation of heat Carried at room Expensive due to need
& sensitive oils present in large amounts temperature, & yields of high number of
Expression in the outer peels of fruits oils with more natural workers
as citrus odors

Extraction Suitable for fresh material with heat- Carried at room or low Expensive due to use
sensitive oils present in small amounts temperature, & yields of solvent & /or high
as rose & jasmine oils with more natural number of workers.
odors
10

10

5
Khaled Meselhy 27/10/2024

Essential Oil
Essential oils are used extensively in the Beauty Recipe. The oils brings healing and protective
skin care qualities to all the products, as well as enhancing these products with their delightful
fragrances. Essential oils are powerful and concentrated, they can be toxic if used incorrectly.
However, if you handle oils carefully and follow these simple guidelines, they are quite safe for all
your Beauty Recipes.
• Never take essential oil orally. It is illegal for even a qualified aromatherapist to suggest this.
• Avoid all contact with the mouth and eyes.
• Some essential oils can cause skin irritation if they are applied undiluted to the skin, therefore
this is not recommended. Apply only properly diluted essential oils to the skin.
• Do not be tempted to increases the amount of essential oils used in the recipes and follow the
instructions carefully.
• If you accidentally splash a drop of essential oil in your eye, use a small amount of the base oil
to dilute the essential oil, absorb this with a soft cloth rinse the eyes with cold water.

11

Perfumes natural sources

12

6
Khaled Meselhy 27/10/2024

1- Rose Oil Biological Source:

✓ Rose oil is an essential oil acquired
from the petals of exclusive rose
species, Rosa damascene and Rosa
centifolia, which belong to the family
Rosacea.

✓ Its chemical constituents include β-

damascenone, β-ionone (Figure 7),
and rose oxide, which account for its
scent [30].

✓ It is used in perfumery in addition

to cosmetics.
13

13

2- Lavender Oil Biological Source:

✓ Lavender oil is vital oil acquired by distillation
from the flower spikes of certain species of
lavender, viz, Lavandula officinalis which
belongs to family Lamiaceae.

✓ Its chemical constituents include alpha-

pinene, limonene, caryophyllene, (Figure 8)
[31].

✓ It has antiseptic and anti-inflammatory

properties, and it is used in perfumes,
cosmetics, and topical software, as well as
in the treatment of pores and skin for
burns to help ease the pain and to treat
14
skin infections [31].
14

7
Khaled Meselhy 27/10/2024

3- German Chamomile Oil Biological

Source:
✓ German chamomile oil is a critical oil
obtained by way of the steam distillation of
the flower and flower buds of Matricaria
chamomilla [32].

✓ Its chemical constituents consist of active

ingredients that include farnesene &
chamazulene(Cause oil blue) (Figure 10),

✓ Have anti-inflammatory, antiphlogistic,

and antiseptic properties [7,32]. It is used
in skin lotions, skin oils, decorative
cosmetics, and shampoos 15

15

4- Neroli Oil (orange flower) Biological

Source:
✓ Neroli oil is a vital oil extracted from the
flower of Citrus aurantium var. Amara,
additionally referred to as bitter orange.

✓ Its chemical constituents include alpha-

terpineol, limonene, nerol & sabinene,
(Figure 11).

✓ It is used in cosmetics, and it is

normally used to refresh either
touchy or oily tired skin

16

16

8
Khaled Meselhy 27/10/2024

5- Rosemary Essential Oil Biological Source:

✓ Rosemary essential oil is produced through steam
distillation of the leaves of Rosamarinus officinalis
that belongs to the family Lamiaceae [33].

✓ Its chemical constituents include the main

chemicals of eucalyptol and Camphor, bornyl
acetate, and borneol (Figure 12)

✓ This oil is widely used for hair care, because it

nourishes the hair, promotes hair growth, and
helps against dandruff. It is recommended in
hair-loss remedies, as it is believed to have
similar characteristics to minoxidil [33].
17

17

6- Tea Tree Oil Biological Source:

✓ Tea tree oil is the essential oil acquired by
distillation from the leaves and terminal
branch lets of Melaleuca alternifolia [7].

✓ Its chemical constituents include alpha-

terpinene, myrcene, alpha-phellandrene,
cineole (Figure 13), etc.

✓ It is used to deal with acne lesions and

extensively utilized in mouth wash due to
the fact that it fights against bad breath
and dental plaque [7].

18

18

9
Khaled Meselhy 27/10/2024

7- Musk from the male musk deer Biological Source:

✓ is obtained from the musk pod, a sac, under the skin of the
abdomen of the male musk deer Fresh musk is semiliquid but
dries to a grainy powder.

✓ Its chemical constituents The odorous principle of musk is

muscone (muskone).

✓ It having a penetrating, persistent odour. It is used in the

highest grades of perfume because of its ability to remain
for long periods of time, and ability to act as a fixative.
✓ There are ethical issues associated with musk which must
be taken into consideration. There is no species of musk
deer that isn’t endangered or extinct as a result of our
industry’s demand for musk pods so recently muscone is
19
synthesized
19

One minute paper

Most interesting

Most confusing

20

20

10