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NUEVA ECIJA UNIVERSITY OF SCIENCE AND TECHNOLOGY

Cabanatuan City, Nueva Ecija, Philippines
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Research No.: 02
Topic: THE AVAILABLE BUILDING
MATERIALS IN THE PHILIPPINES
Subject: Building Technology 4 (AR - 383)

Prepared by: CRISTOBAL, CHARLENE FAYE

R.

Prepared to: ARCH. KING MICHAEL

ANGELO S.
PALAPAL

Year/Section: Course Title: Semester:

School Year:
3D B.S. ARCHITECTURE 2nd SEMESTER
2024-2025

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AVAILABLE BRAND PROVIDERS FOR TUFF CHEMICAL AND ADHESIVES
PLYWOOD, PLYBOARDS: PHILIPPINES
SANTA CLARA MARINE PLYWOOD PACMAC PH
PHENOLIC PLYWOODSUPPLIERS IN 3M ADHESIVES, SEALANT, FILLERS
PHILIPPINES NAILS, SCREWS, BOLTS BRAND NAMES:
MLIM PHENOLIC PLYWOOD STEELWORLD MANUFACTURING
ERSOY PLYWOOD GO 4 WORLD BUSINESS
GREAT STARWAY VENTURES PHILS. INC. UNI-FIVE STEEL CORPORATION
SIRAWAI PLYWOOD AND LUMBER FASTENERS INC.
CORPORATION HELIX STEEL PRODUCTS CORPORATION
FIBER CEMENT BOARDS’ BRAND NAMES: SCREWTECH BOLTS AND NUTS
GLORIUOS MORNING CONSTRUCTION PHILFASTEN
AND INDUSTRIAL SALES INSULATORS BRAND NAMES:
JAMES HARDIE INDUSTRIES ASSISTCO
ALLURA BETAFOAM CORPORATION
GAF PATSUM INSULATION
NICHIHA ULTRA INSULATED PANEL SYSTEMS CORP.
WOODTONE COLORSTEEL SYSTEM CORP.
REINFORCED STEEL BRAND NAMES: TILE BRAND NAMES:
PAR-ASA STEEL WORKS INC. MARIWASA SIAM CERAMICS, INC
CAPITOL STEEL (MARIWASA TILES)
STEELASIA FORMOSA CERAMIC TILES
VSTEEL METAL ASIA MANUFACCTURING CORP (TEN ZEN TILES)
MAXIMASTEELS CORP EUROTILES INDUSTRIAL CORP (EUROTILES)
CEBU STEEL CORPORATION LEPANTO CERAMICS INC (LEPANTO TILES)
PAINTS AND ADHESIVES BRAND NAMES: GRANITE AND QUARTZ BRAND NAMES:
DAVIES PAINTS EUROASIA MARBLE AND GRANITE
PACIFIC PAINT (BOYSEN) STONE 2000 GRANITE TRADING MUNOZ
ULTRACOTE STONE DEPOT
A-PLUS PAINTS STONE TRADING CORP.
DUN AND BRADSTREET KAUFMAN STONE
ISLAND PAINTS STEFISTONE
FORTRESS QUARTZ PH
TITAN PVC AND WPC BRAND NAMES:
SUN AND RAIN GEM KONSTRUK
ELLSWORTH ADHESIVES PH. CONZONE TRADING CORP.
KELVIN MARKETING DECO CITY
SATURN ADHESIVE AND CHEMICAL MARIWASA SIAM CERAMICS INC.
CORPORATION HOME CENTRAL PHILIPPINES
PIONEER LEXUS INDUSTRIAL
ECO EDGE

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PIPES MANUFACTURERS:
MOLDEX PRODUCTS, INC
CROWN PIPES (CROWN ASIA CHEMICALS
CORPORATION)
LUCKY PVC
LAMTEX PIPING SOLUTIONS
BIOPIPE
PARKLANE
ROOFING MANUFACTURERS:
ALPHA PRO STEEL MAKERS
BP CANADA
COLORSTEEL SYSTEMS CORP.
DN STEEL
JACINTO COLOR STEEL INC
MARUSUGI CO. LTD.
STEELTECH COLORED ROOFING
PUYAT STEEL CORPORATION
WIRE MANUFACTURERS:
AM WIRE
PHILFLEX
AMERICAN WIRE AND CABLE CO.
ORION WIRE AND CABLE
UNICON WIRES
WERSON WIRE MESH FENCE
ROYAL WIRE AND CABLE CORP.
SWITCH INDUSTRIAL SALES CORPORATION
AWCP (ASSOPCIATED WIRE
CORPORATION OF THE PHILIPPINES)
MEGAWIRE
STEELWORLD

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PLYWOOD:

Different Types of Plywood Based on Thickness

Plywood thickness can vary depending on its type, manufacturing process, and
intended use. Below, we explore some common types of plywood and their
typical thicknesses:
1. Softwood Plywood
Softwood plywood is commonly made from pine, fir, or spruce. It’s used in
structural applications like sub-flooring, roof decking, and wall sheathing.
Softwood plywood is known for its strength and durability, making it a staple in
construction.
Common thicknesses include:
1/4″ (6 mm)
1/2″ (12 mm)
5/8″ (15 mm)

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3/4″ (19 mm)
2. Hardwood Plywood
Typically crafted from species like oak, birch, or maple, hardwood plywood is
prized for its smooth surface and superior strength. It’s a popular choice for high-
end furniture, cabinetry, and decorative projects. Hardwood plywood offers a
wide range of thickness options:
1/8″ (3.2 mm)
1/4″ (6 mm)
1/2″ (12 mm)
3/4″ (19 mm)
The fine finish of hardwood plywood makes it ideal for visible areas like cabinet
doors and tabletops.
3. Tropical Plywood
Known for its high quality and resistance to moisture and pests, tropical plywood
is made from hardwoods sourced from tropical regions. It’s used in regions with
high humidity due to its durability.
Typical thicknesses include:
1/4″ (6 mm)
1/2″ (12 mm)
3/4″ (19 mm)
This type of plywood is more expensive but highly valued for outdoor projects in
harsh weather conditions.
4. Marine Plywood
Designed specifically for environments exposed to moisture, marine plywood is
essential for boat building and exterior construction. It features waterproof
adhesives and solid veneers to resist water damage. Common thicknesses for
marine plywood include:
1/4″ (6 mm)
1/2″ (12 mm)
3/4″ (19 mm)
Though pricier, marine plywood is unbeatable in terms of water resistance and
strength for outdoor projects.
Plywood Thickness for Specific Applications
The thickness of plywood plays a crucial role depending on the project. Here’s a
guide to help you choose the best plywood thickness for various common
applications:
1. Plywood Thickness for Furniture Construction
For building durable furniture like tables, desks, and chairs, 3/4″ (19 mm)
plywood offers the strength and stability required to support weight and
withstand wear. For drawer bottoms or decorative furniture elements, thinner
plywood like 1/4″ (6 mm) can be used.

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2. Plywood Thickness for Wardrobe

When building a wardrobe, the thickness of the plywood plays a vital role in
ensuring the structure’s stability. For wardrobe doors, 1/2″ (12 mm) or 3/4″ (19
mm) plywood provides durability and a smooth finish. For the wardrobe’s back
panel, 1/4″ (6 mm) plywood is typically sufficient.
3. Plywood Thickness for Bed
The plywood thickness for a bed frame needs to offer ample support. For the
slats or frame, 3/4″ (19 mm) plywood is generally recommended to ensure
strength. However, for less weight-bearing parts like the headboard, 1/2″ (12 mm)
may suffice.
4. Plywood Thickness for Desk
For building a desk, you want plywood that is both strong and visually appealing.
A plywood thickness of 3/4″ (19 mm) is ideal for the desktop to ensure it can
support the weight of items placed on it. For drawers or decorative panels, 1/4″
(6 mm) is often suitable.
5. Plywood Thickness for Sub-flooring
Sub-flooring requires plywood with sufficient thickness to support the flooring
material and the load it will bear. The minimum for tile floors is 5/8″ (15 mm),
though 3/4″ (19 mm) plywood is preferred for added sturdiness.
6. Plywood Thickness for Walls
For wall sheathing, plywood wall panels, or plywood partition walls, 1/2″ (12 mm)
plywood is commonly used. This thickness offers enough structural support
without being too bulky. In areas where strength is more critical, such as in
exterior walls, you might opt for 5/8″ (15 mm) plywood.

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Type of Gypsum Board

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Regular Gypsum Board

The regular one has white color, fire resistant and it’s easy to find on the market.
This is very common and the most affordable one. The size is usually 4×8 feet
with a 1-inch thickness.

Moisture Resistant Gypsum Board

On the market, the other name for this board is the green board. The green part
will protect the gypsum from moisture. However, this gypsum board isn’t water
resistant and will gradually erode.

Plaster Baseboard

For veneer plastering purposes, plaster baseboard is common to use. It has

absorption ability as well. The bathroom and kitchen area usually uses this to
reduce bacteria growth.

Paperless Gypsum Board

The paperless gypsum means it uses more fiberglass because it increases

durability and is mold resistant. The texture is quite inherent and smothering out
will help to get a flatter surface.

Improved moisture-resistant Gypsum Board

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The IMR gypsum is purple. The resistance of this gypsum is very superior. The best
usage is for walls and ceilings in the bathrooms or kitchens where it gets in
contact with water.

Type X Gypsum Board

Type X is fire resistant that is best for building that needs big protection such as
factories and industries. It’s durable and strong that is hard to cut and form into
shape. It can be sound-proofing material as well.

Sound-proof Gypsum Board

The sound-proof board will absorb the noise in the room. It has layers from fibers,
woods, gypsum, and polymers, It’s dense and hard to cut. A lot of karaoke
places and entertainment rooms use this gypsum for the wall.

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THICHNESS OF REINFORCED STEEL BARS

Types of Rebars
Rebars are available in at least 8 types.
1. Mild Steel Bar

The mild steel bar has a smooth surface. Therefore, it

cannot develop a good bond to concrete. It is suitable
for contraction joints in roads, column spirals, and dowels
at expansion joints.
2. Deformed Steel Bar

It has a deformed surface,

such as ribs and lugs so it can develop a better
bond to concrete than the mild steel bar does.
Deformed steel bars come in two choices.
TMT Bars
TMT (thermo mechanical treatment) bar offers
higher bond strength, better weld-ability, and
earthquake resistance. It is also more economical.
High Strength Deformed Bars
High-strength deformed bars are low in carbon so
they are ductile. Moreover, they have better welding capability and high-tensile
strength. They also allow construction workers to use less steel in construction.
3. European Rebar

The European rebar generally is a

manganese rebar, which makes it easily
bendable.
Consequently, it is not suitable for
constructing structures located in natural-
disaster prone areas or under extreme
weather conditions.

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4. Carbon Steel Rebar

The carbon steel rebar is black due to the carbon

content in it. It is one of the best rebars, but it corrodes
easily. Therefore, it is not suitable for structures located
in high humid areas.

5. Epoxy-
Coated Rebar

It is black steel rebar with epoxy coating

on its surface. It doesn’t corrode easily
so it is suitable for bridges, marine
structures, roads, or buildings located
near the sea.

6. Galvanized Rebar

The galvanized rebar has a protective

layer of zinc. This rebar does not corrode
easily.
Construction workers usually apply it to
structures located in humid areas.
However, the galvanized rebars price
Philippines can be pricey.

7. Glass Fiber Reinforced Polymer (GFRP)

GFRP is not a steel rebar, but it is a carbon fiber

bar. It has higher tensile strength and will never
corrode.
8. Stainless Steel Rebar

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Stainless steel rebar is the best rebar for most

construction projects. However, it is very expensive.

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Not all applications need the same steel plates. Therefore, steel plate
manufacturers make them in several types.
1.Checkered Plates

Checkered plates have raised

angular patterns on their surface.
These patterns create a textured
surface that lowers the risk of
skids and slips.
Consequently, checkered steel
plates are ideal for pathways,
walkways, and corner guards.

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2.Galvanized Plates
Galvanized Steel Plates
Galvanized plates are steel plates
with a zinc coating.
This coating makes galvanized
plates more durable and has
better corrosion resistance.
Therefore, galvanized steel plate
price is rather pricey. These plates
are perfect for roofing, water
heaters, and automobiles.
3.Mild Steel Plates

The mild steel plate is one of

the easiest steel plate types
to work with. Mild steel plates
are available in different
thicknesses.
In addition, you can cut and
bend it without specific tools.
Mild steel plates are best for
the construction and
shipping industry.

4.B.I. and G.I. Plates

Black iron (BI) plates contain aluminum

and copper. Meanwhile, galvanized
iron (GI) plates are almost similar to
galvanized plates.
BI and GI plates have a zinc coating
and pass an electric galvanizing
process.
As a result, BI and GI plates have
better resistance to various elements, stronger, and more durable.
This superiority makes their steel plate price slightly higher than particular steel
plate types. BI and GI plates are ideal for the construction and automotive
industry.

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Sizes of Steel Plates
You can find steel plates in a wide array of sizes. Steel plate sizes typically
feature thickness or weight.
Meanwhile, the plate length and width vary greatly because some sellers sell
plates in small cuts and others in full plate sizes.
The steel plate thickness starts from 1.6 mm to 250 mm. In addition, the steel
plate weight is between 12.6 kg/m2 and 1963 kg/m2.

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ISO 9001:2015 CERTIFIED
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Parts of a Nail

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Head
Nails come in multiple shapes, each with its own purpose.

 Round headed nails are often used for general-purpose fastening and construction.
The round head allows good contact with the hammer but creates a rougher finish than
other nail types.
 Flat headed nails are round and relatively large. They make driving a nail easier and
reduce the risk of a nail’s head pulling through a given work surface.
 Checkered heads have a raised pattern, which helps prevent the hammer from slipping
off the nail.
 Countersink and cupped heads are small, and not much larger than the diameter of
the shank. They drive below the surface of the wood, to minimize nail visibility. Cupped
heads allow one to easily fill such nail holes for a smooth finish.
 Clipped heads are relatively small D-shaped heads designed for use in nail guns. This
clipped-style head allows for nails of this design to be joined for use in a nailer.

Shank
The shank is the middle part of the nail that is instrumental in providing strength. There are
several different types of nail shanks.

 A smooth shank is the easiest to drive but offers the least amount of resistance against
pulling out.
 A spiral shank rotates the nail as you drive it, much like threads on a screw. The thread
or flute on the shank makes the nail easier to drive and helps keep the nail in place.
Spiral-shank nails are commonly used for nailing hardwood flooring. Nails with spiral
shanks are also often known as screw nails.
 Ring-shank nails, also known as annular nails, are often used with softer woods. Like a
spiral shank nail, ring-shank nails lock into wood fibers to provide extra holding strength.

Point
A nail’s point is its sharp outer tip, which is instrumental in penetrating wood surfaces.

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 Diamond-shaped points are typical on nails designed for general use and make nails of
this construction easier to drive. Long diamond-shaped points also help minimize the
splitting of the wood.
 A blunt point makes a nail harder to drive, but less likely to split a work piece.

Materials and Coatings

A nail’s external finish or coating helps determine what projects it is best reserved for use with.
Steel is the most common material used in nail construction, but is also susceptible to corrosion.

Steel nails that will be used in decking or other areas that come in contact with moisture, need
to have a corrosion resistant coating. Meanwhile, bright nails consist of untreated steel, and are
suitable for interior use only.

 Black phosphate coatings give nails a gray or black appearance. Black phosphate is a
coating intended for indoor applications, and works well on drywall nails, since this
coating creates excellent adhesion to both paint and drywall mud.
 Zinc plating adds a silvery or gold tint to any nail. Zinc-plated nails have some corrosion
resistance, but standard zinc plating is thin and best used for indoor applications.
 Hot-dipped galvanized nails work well for outdoor use, due to their thicker zinc coating.
This finish adds a flat, gray color. Hot-dipped galvanized nails are suitable for use with
pressure-treated lumber, which can corrode unprotected steel. However, hot dipped
galvanized nails don’t work well with wood species such as cedar and redwood. The
coating reacts with oils in the lumber and can cause staining.
 Vinyl coatings on fasteners make them easier to drive, and increase their holding
strength.
 Paint, brass, bronze, and nickel plating are best used for indoor applications.

Types of Nails
Common Nail

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Like a typical claw hammer, a common nail can be utilized for everyday projects, such as
construction work, framing, and woodworking projects. This type of nail features a round head
and sturdy shank that provides substantial strength.

The common nail is best reserved for jobs where strength is more important than the
appearance of the nail.

Box Nail

A box nail has a similar design to the common nail. However, the shank of a box nail is narrower.
This means that box nails do not possess the same level of strength as that of the common nail,
and are not appropriate for major structural jobs.

The smaller diameter of the shank does reduce the probability of splitting the wood when
driving the nail.

Brad Nail

Brad nails are a smaller variety of finish nails. They are ideal for more precise woodworking and
craft work, but do not possess the same holding strength as a finish nail.

Brad nails have heads that are only slightly bigger than the diameter of the shaft of the brad.
Often brads are installed using a pneumatic nail gun.

Finishing Nail
Also known as: Finish Nail

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Finishing or finish nails are quite often used in carpentry and cabinetry work, where there is a
need to conceal the nail used. They have small heads that can be countersunk below the surface
of the wood with the use of a nail set, thus making them an excellent choice for molding work.

The finishing nail features a small diameter shaft, which reduces the risk of splitting.

Sinker Nail

Sinker nails are typically used for framing and general construction jobs. These nails feature
checkered heads that prevent the framing hammer from sliding off while driving.

Nails of this type are designed to be driven flush with wood surfaces. Sinker nails also have vinyl
covered shanks that provide lubrication for easier driving and increased holding power.

Deck Nail

Due to their corrosion resistant composition, deck nails are the preferred choice for use with
treated lumber. Deck nails customarily have checkered heads for better contact with the head of
a hammer.

The smaller diameter shafts, characteristic of most deck nails, minimize splitting and often
feature rings or spiral flutes to enhance holding power.

Drywall Nail

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Drywall nails are designed specifically for the job of installing drywall. They have large round
heads that are designed to be countersunk for concealment, and minimize the possibility of
tearing drywall board.

Drywall nails also feature long diamond shaped points, which reduce the splitting of wall studs.
Drywall nails are available with both smooth and ringed shanks, the latter of which enhances
holding power.

Flooring Nail

Flooring nails are designed to be used in pneumatic nail guns, for the purpose of installing
wood flooring. They are available in 16, 18, or 20 gauge sizes, which allow for flooring
expansion/contraction, and greater holding power.

The higher the gauge number, the thinner the nail, and the less likely splitting becomes.

Framing Nail

Framing nails, like common nails, are generally used for larger framing and craft projects, where
superior hold and strength are necessary.

These nails are commonly used in framing nail guns, and come in a variety of shank and head
configurations for use with specific nailers. It is commonplace for framing nails to be driven
flush into the wood.

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Roofing Nail

Roofing nails are intended for securing asphalt shingles, roof felt, roof decking and sheathing.
These nails are exposed to the elements so they generally are made of aluminum or have
corrosion resistant finishes.

Oftentimes, roofing nails feature a gasket under their larger than normal nail head to create a
weather resistant seal.

Cut Nails

Cut nails are quite robust, and are often used in a nailing machine for easier handling. Nails of
this configuration are often used when installing flooring.

These nails are cut from a steel plate, leaving a distinctive wedge shape that is quite
unmistakable. Cut nails are known for providing an impressive grip that is highly sought after in
the flooring business.

Duplex Nail
Also known as: Double-Headed Nail, Scaffold Nail

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Duplex nails are essentially two nails in one. They are used for temporarily constructing
scaffolding, or forms for concrete projects.

They are designed with two heads along a central shank. The first head secures the nail against
the wood, while the second head allows for easy removal.

Masonry Nail

Masonry nails are designed to fasten wood to brick, concrete block, and mortar. They are
constructed of hardened steel with longitudinal grooves along the length of the nail’s shank, to
assist with penetration of very hard materials.

Concrete Nail

Concrete nails are made of high-carbon hardened steel, and feature fluted shafts that help them
easily sink into concrete. These nails are driven through boards into the concrete below.

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Typically nails of this type are cheap and hold well, as long as at least 3/4 inch penetrates into
the concrete. Concrete nails are shaped like thick common nails, and are extremely hard to pull
out.

Siding Nail

A siding nail is used to secure wood or siding to a structure. They are made with corrosion
resistant material, or feature a corrosion resistant finish, as such nails are regularly exposed to
the elements.

Siding nails often have small heads, so that they are extremely difficult to see after installation.
These nails feature a ringed or spiral shank for extra holding strength.

Joist Hanger Nail

Joist hangers are brackets used for adding strength and rigidity to connections. These
connections will have wood pieces meeting at a 90-degree angle. In most cases, they are used
in major construction with joists and trusses.

Joist hanger nails are mostly made of stainless steel or hardened steel. Joist hanger nails also
have various options for shanks. The most common shank options include smooth, barbed, and
ring.

Weatherstrip Nail

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Weatherstripping nails are designed to be usable for any weather conditions. They are used to
secure weatherstripping to windows and doors.

Weatherstrip nails come with a sharp point combined with a barbed shank. These two features
make it easy to securely install the nail into position. They are most commonly constructed of
copper because such material can hold up quite well against different weather conditions.

Pole Barn Nail

Pole barn nails are constructed with ring shanks for holding strength and a corrosion resistant
finish for compatibility with pressure treated wood.

These types of nails are for construction projects that use wood poles set in the ground to form
the foundation of the structure. They are commonly found in sizes ranging from about 4 to 8
inches.

Connector Nail

Connector nails are designed for attaching structural hardware such as framing angles and
rafter ties. They are used in nailer guns for installing joist hangers, straps, framing anchors/ties,
and seismic/hurricane ties.

The heads are generally marked for easier nail identification during inspections and are
designed to reduce nail bending when driven into hardware.

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Cap Nail

Cap nails are used to attach roofing felt, house wrap, tar paper, and insulation foam board.
Unlike galvanized nails, a cap nail has a steel spiral shank that helps keep the fastener in place
and a large polyethylene cap to prevent leaks.

Trim Nail

Trim nails are designed for exterior use on homes. They secure home gutters, fascia, and soffit
board as well as exterior trim. They are generally of a galvanized composition to withstand the
elements.

Pin Nail

Pin nails are used for delicate fastening jobs and are the thinnest and shortest of all finishing
nails. These nails come in strips and are installed in a nail gun. They have a very small diameter
(23 gauge) and no head, so they leave a very small entry point.

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Annular Ring Nail
Also known as: Annular Ring Shank

Annular ring shank nails are commonly used to hold clapboards or shingles in place on home
exteriors. These nails are most commonly of a galvanized construction.

Annular ring nails are thin nails, lined with rings for added holding power, and are resistant to
rust.

Tack Nail

A tack nail is a short nail with a wide, flat head or round head that is used for fixing carpets to
floorboards and for stretching fabric onto wood. The lightweight nail is also commonly used for
cabinet-making and for fixing small moldings into place.

The rounded head tack nail is used frequently with upholstery.

Panel Board Nail

Panel board nails have small, round heads and are used for fastening wall panels to studs or
furring. They’re often available painted in different colors to match the panels you’re installing.

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It has a ring shank for greater holding power in medium and soft woods.

Furniture Chair Nail

Furniture chair nails protect hardwood, ceramic tile, linoleum & hard surfaces from mars &
scratches. They are designed for application on straight wooden furniture legs while reducing
friction and noise while moving furniture.

Upholstery Nail
Also known as: Upholstery Tack

Furniture nails or upholstery tacks are small nails with relatively large, decorative heads. They
have two functions, to adhere upholstery to wood and to be decorative.

Spiral Shank Nail

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Spiral shank nails turn as they are driven into wood. Due to the spiral shank design, they work
like wood screws in the sense that they thread into the fibers of the hardwood as you drive
them.

These nails are also designed to handle the dense materials better thanks to the use of
reinforced steel. They are commonly used for squeak-free hardwood flooring and decking,
siding, or in framing that is susceptible to high winds and moisture.

Rose Head Nail

Rose head nails are a solid steel forged nail that is good for framing, face nailing, scaffolding,
and soft wood floors. They get their name from the hammered head that often resembles rose
petals.

The forged look is desirable when you are seeking an antiqued look for the piece you are using
them on. Quite often rose head nails are used in furniture repair and cabinetry due to this
appearance.

The nails come with quite an outstanding durability plus holding power.

Hammer Drive Pin Anchor

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A hammer drive pin anchor is used mostly for light-duty fastening activities and is quite
versatile. They are installed by pre-drilling a hole and then striking the pin anchor with a
hammer, thus driving the nail into the anchor body, expanding the anchor to form a tight fit.

Parts of Screws

Following are the main parts of the screw:

Drive

Head

Threaded shank

Non-threaded shank

Thread

Thread length

Tip

Crest

Screw thickness

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#1 Drive

These parts are also known as screw heads. The drive is a slot where the tip of the screwdriver
will fit to rotate the screw. There are a variety of sizes and shapes of drives available. According
to that, it should be better to have multiple screwdriver tips in a personal toolbox.

#2 Head

The head is the main part of the screw that is located on top of it. All types of screws can be
tightened or loosened by the screw head. It is usually broader than the shank and thread. It has
the conditions to adjust a screwdriver or wrench.

#3 Threaded Shank

This is the tapered part where the threads and helical grooves are on the screw. In this place, the
screw makes its grip on the joining bodies.

#4 Non-threaded Shank

This is the longer part of the screw that does not have threads. This part may be left absent in
some types of screws. It is usually at the top that allows the tip of the wood screw to pull the
screw into the wood like a regular screw.

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#5 Thread

It is a ridge or a similar section in the form of a helix or conical spiral on the outer or inner
surface of a cylinder or cone.

The distance between each thread that makes a difference is known as the pitch. Some screws
have short threads that are close to each other. And some have larger threads that are further
spaced.

#6 Thread Length

In general, the length of the thread is either full or partial. Therefore, full thread and
partial screw threads are also available.

#7 Tip

This is the lowest part of the screw where the screw enters the object you are inserting the
screw into. It usually helps to screw through the joining bodies.

If it doesn’t have a tip, it becomes a bolt that requires a pre-made hole. But, some screws are
missing this part where the threads are still present.

#8 Crest

The crest of the thread is the major part of the thread, whether it is internal or external. The
crest is the valley of the thread.

#9 Screw Thickness

The thickness of the screw is measured by two diameters which is the minor and major diameter.
The major diameter is the diameter at the thickest part of the thread and the minor thickness is
the diameter at the base of the screw.

Read Also: 16 Different Types of Sprockets and Their Uses [Explained With Pictures]

Types of Screws

Following are the types of Screws:

Carriage bolts

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Decking screws

Double ended screws

Drywall screws

Eye bolt screws

Framing screws

Fillister head screws

Hex cap screws

Hammer drive screws

Lag screws

Machine screws

Masonry screws

Oval head screws

Pan-head screws

Particle board screws

Square head bolts

Self-drilling screws

Set screws

Shoulder screws

Sheet metal screws

Socket-head screws

Thread cutting screws

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Washer-faced screws

Wood screws

Weld screws

Tamper-proof screw

#1 Carriage Bolts

Carriage bolts are forms of bolts used to fasten metal to metal or wood to metal. It is different
from other bolts by its shallow mushroom head and the shank being rounded along its entire
length.

The carriage bolt is designed with a domed head, which can prevent loosening from one side.
The increased head size of the screw also prevents the bolt from being pulled through the
wooden construction. Using a domed head nut prevents the carriage bolt from unlocking from
the unprotected side.

#2 Decking Screws

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Deck screws are special screws used to hold decks (flat roofless structures) together primarily
for outdoor applications. Decking screws are made of stainless steel or carbon steel and are
specifically designed for joining wood or composite boards together.

They are made in such a way that they are capable of resisting coating like rust and corrosion
due to which they can withstand damp environmental conditions. They are available in covered
threads with sharp edges and narrow points.

#3 Double Ended Screws

Double-ended screws are threaded fasteners used to form a joint that is usually under the
object. These are used to two pieces of wood or two parts that are able to move together. They
have two pointed ends that can be inserted into two surfaces, which will form a hidden joint.

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They are headless screws with rotating threads at both ends which can be woodless screws with
machine screws on both ends or a combination of wood screws. Double-ended screws are easily
attached or detachable from the user, so they are easy to use.

#4 Drywall Screws

Drywall screws are typically used to attach drywall panels with softwoods or metal studs. These
are unique forms of self-tapping screws with a cylindrical shaft. These screws have deeper
threads than regular screws with a relatively higher pitch and length, which prevents them from
loosening from the drywall.

They have a rough thread and flat tip that makes them easy to drill under the surface of drywall
but requires a power screwdriver. Drywall screws provide a firmer grip but do not have the same
corrosion-resistant properties as deck screws. They do not require pre-drilling the holes as they
have their own drilling tip.

#5 Eye Bolt Screws

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An eye bolt is a bolt that has an eye-shaped loop at one end and threads around the shank of
the screw at the other end. The eye bolt screws are used to attach a secure eye to a structure or
system, so it becomes easy to tie ropes or cables.

These are very easy to carry in metal and provide stability plus strength so that an object can be
easily pulled out or lifted with the help of rope. Eyebolt screws are normally used as a
connection point for anchoring, pulling, pushing, or hoisting applications.

#6 Framing Screws

Framing screws are types of screws used for sheet metal, wood, composite decking, and cement
fiberboard applications. These special types of screed are designed to fit into varieties of
materials from hardwood floors to brittle materials.

The function of framing screws is similar to circular saw blades because they prevent sawdust
from reaching the edge of the screw hole. Framing screws are commonly seen in outdoor
applications such as kitchen cabinet installation and deck building.

#7 Fillister Head Screws

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Fillister head screws are slotted head machine fasteners. These pan heads are similar to machine
screws but are made of larger heads that can be useful for attaching metal or wood to metal.
Often most of the time, these are also referred to as cheese head screws.

The heads of these screws are primarily chosen for counterbore holes. These sizable deep heads
make them suitable for reciprocating and slot drives. But more generally, cheese head screws
are a great selection for use in tool manufacturing and automotive applications.

#8 Hex Cap Screws

Hex cap screws are six-sided bolts (hexagon) made with a perforated hex head and a washer
face on the bearing surface. These types of screws are used to attach wood or metal to wood.
These screws have tight tolerances on body dimensions and have a chamfer.

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Hex screws have short steel threads making them ideal for interior home improvement projects.
These screws also include a flat washer under the screw head and provide precise application.
The major use of hex bolts is in docks, bridges, road structures, and buildings.

#9 Hammer Drive Screws

These screws fall under the category of self-tapping screws. These screws are typically
manufactured with rounded heads that have no slots. Hammer drive screws are used for
attaching nameplates or wall signs, as well as are used to seal drain holes.

In addition, they are also highly useful for corrosion-resistant tubular structures. Screws have a
similar function to nails as they are driven into the holes using a hammer or mallet for fast
assembly purposes. Before installing them, it requires a small pre-drilled hole to complete the
task successfully.

#10 Lag Screws

Lag screws are used in heavy work and are often used in construction to fasten pieces of wood
together. They are rigid screws that come in hex or square with thick threads and are able to
hold up to heavy workpieces.

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The lag bolt provides a long-lasting connection due to its long length. This is why they are used
for materials that may be subjected to heavy force or can bear heavy loads. It is usually much
heavier screws than traditional wood screws. These screws differ from ordinary wood or sheet
metal screws.

#11 Machine Screws

A machine screw fastening parts that have a socket in their head that allows it to be turned
using a screwdriver. They are commonly employed to hold parts of machines in industries such
as electronics, engineering, and manufacturing equipment.

These screws are specifically used to fasten a tapped hole to the surface using a nut. The screws
are stretched when tightened, and tensile loads secure the parts together. Normally, Their
pointed ends are used to connect metal parts together. Nowadays, they are seen in almost
every material including nylon, brass, stainless steel, and carbon steel.

#12 Masonry Screws

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Masonry screws are heavy-duty screws used to hold strong materials such as concrete, CMU,
mortar joints, and brick in place. They are made of stainless or carbon steel and come with or
without a rust coating.

Fitting a masonry screw requires a pre-drilled small hole using a carbide bit or hammer drill
before being inserted. Masonry screws are available in two types: a flat head for countersinking,
or a hex washer head to sit on the top of the surface of the material.

#13 Oval Head Screws

These screws are known in the shape of undercut or trim heads with shorter screw lengths that
usually give a longer thread grip. Oval-head screws are somewhat countersunk, with the screw
head about halfway above the surface.

The oval countersunk screw heads have a rounded finish top and are mostly used to cover
switches. They are also considered a good option to make the finished product more attractive.
These types of screws are generally available in two types, rounded head screws, and Phillips
oval head screws.

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#14 Pan Head Screws

Pan head screws are a common head type of non-countersunk screw head used in woods.
These are also self-tapping, self-drilling, and machine screws. They have wide heads, a flat
bearing surface, a flat head with rounded sides that sit on top of the material it fastens to.

With its larger diameter and higher edges, the drive slot is deeper, allowing for increased torque
while reducing the risk of screw damage. Pan-head screws with single cuts in slotted heads are a
type of pan head screws that works with any screwdriver. The main purpose of using these
screws is to secure metal components like machinery and automotive engine parts.

#15 Particle Board Screws

Particle board screws are full-length threaded screws. The advantage of these screws is that the
longer thread yields greater engagement and higher pulling force. This type of screw is
designed for composite wood such as laminated particle board or craftwood. And is used by
cabinet makers in domestic and commercial joinery.

Particle board screws are similar to drywall screws but are available in shorter lengths than
standard drywall screws. Due to their lightweight, they can be easily carried and handled. These
screws are used by cabinet makers in domestic and commercial joinery.

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#16 Square Head Bolts

Square head bolts are like hex cap screws but have a four edge square head instead of a six
edge hexagonal head. They are also known as both bolts and screws and are designed to work
with a spanner. These screws are threaded partially along a shoulder under the head.

The function and purpose of a square head screw determine the size of the head of the bolt.
This type of screw is used to tighten the nut as well as two parts. Square head screws were the
industry standard before hex bolts gained importance.

#17 Self-drilling Screw

Self-drilling screws come with a highly sharp pointed end that almost work as a drill bit and
cutting threads useful tap holes during installation. Because they have a tip like a drill bit, they
don’t require pilot holes. Self-drilling screws are typically used screws for quick drilling in both
metal and wood.

These are usually be determined by their point and flute tip. They can drill and tap their own
holes in harder materials saves you using the tool. These screws are easy to find because of their
point, which curves at the end and is look like a twist drill.

#18 Set Screws

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A set screw is a screw used to secure an object within or against another object such as fixing
a pulley or gear on a shaft by applying pressure and/or friction. A set screw is typically used
without a nut that is screwed into a threaded hole drilled in two objects to secure it.

Once the screw fits into the first object, the projected end of the set screw presses firmly against
the second object, working similarly to a clamp. These are often headless and are threaded
along their entire length so that it sits completely inside the hole.

#19 Shoulder Screws

This type of screw fits into one part and provides a freely rotating pin joint connection in the
other. It consists of a large diameter shank just below the head which is a smaller diameter for
the threaded length.

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This design allows a shoulder screw to be fitted firmly to one part without locking the other part,
giving it axial clearance. These screws provide versatility by acting as a shaft for rotating items
such as shoulder bearings.

#20 Sheet Metal Screws

Sheet metal screws can bind or join two pieces of sheet metal to other types of metal, such as
tubing. Sheet metal screws can secure and tighten metal objects to each other or fasten objects.
These screw sizes are available which include flat, hex, and round.

Sheet metal screws have pointed ends and include a fine thread along the shank. These screws
work by drilling into the sheet metal with the fully threaded shank. The advantage of using
these screws is that they can provide excellent penetration, corrosion-resistant, and superior
holding.

#21 Socket Head Screws

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A socket cap screw is a type of machine screw that has a cylindrical barrel-shaped head with a
hexagonal socket. Due to their cylindrical heads and internal wrenching features, they allow for
use in locations where externally dampening fasteners are not desirable.

These screws are perfect when needing a fastener to sit under the surface of the material.
Wherever a joint is required, they can deliver extremely strong and reliable plus they are also
resistant to corrosion. Apart from these, they give an attractive and quality finish.

#22 Thread Cutting Screws

These types of screws have sharp edges because the depth of the hole is slightly longer than
that of the screw. This arrangement will keep the metals from getting locked inside the device.
Thread cutting screws are often used with wood and metal.

The purpose of using these is to reduce the build-up of internal tool stresses, thus making them
ideal for extremely hard materials. Unlike a thread-forming screw, it does not have a cutting
edge, which is difficult in materials with low compressive strength.

#23 Washer Faced Screws

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These types of screws act as springs to decrease the distance between the nut and the head of
the screw. The washer-faced type screws are available in many types and sizes.

Basically, some types have teeth that penetrate the surface and lock the screw head into the
workpiece. In this type, the washer face is located just below the head, providing a smooth
bearing surface for easy tightening.

#24 Wood Screws

As the name suggests, this type of screw is used to attach a wooden workpiece. A wood screw is
commonly made of brass, steel, and bronze materials. Wood screws have different threads and
are available in a variety of heads.

As we move towards the top of the screw, it thins a bit, the diameter of the screw being thicker
than the tip. These are available in both the options which are partially or fully covered threads
at the shank. The head size of this screw depends on different applications.

#25 Weld Screws

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These are needed to be welded to a metal surface with a shaft to hold the item in place with a
nut and washer. The screw is first welded to the plate by melting a specially created point on the
screw and then on the plate by means of a powerful electrical impulse.

The welded screw protrudes from the head to allow welding without any holes. The welding
stud is then attached to a piece of metal that is positioned on the metal base. They are used in
the automotive, industrial, marine, construction, and aerospace industries.

#26 Tamper-proof Screws

Tamper-proof screws are made difficult or impossible to remove when installed. These are
suitable for use in buildings or areas that are accessible by the public as a means of controlling
or preventing destruction.

These are the types of safety

screws that can be determined
by their unconventional drive
resulting in more difficulty to
tamper or take apart. These
screws are primarily used in
prisons to secure materials such
as car license plates, gutters,
and grill bars.

Bolt Strength
Bolts are regularly marked to
indicate their strength, which is
dependent on the material and
dimensions of the bolt.

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Metric class and Imperial grade Metric/imperial proof
Material
marking and marking load

Grade 2

Low or medium carbon (no class)

steel

Class 8.8
Grade 5
Medium carbon steel,
quenched & tempered

Medium carbon alloy Grade 8

steel, quenched &
Class 10.9
tempered

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Class 12.9

Alloy steel, quenched (no grade)

and tempered

A-2 18-8

Stainless steel
(markings vary) (markings vary)

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Insulation Type 1: Batts And Rolls Blanket Insulation

Batt insulation is one of the most widely used insulation types. It comes in batts or rolls that are pre-cut
or can be cut in order to fill unfinished:

 Wall studs. Example: We use flame-resistant facing batts on basement walls.

 Attic rafters or trusses.
 Floor joists.

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Example of a batt and roll insulation applied between floor joists.

Basically, we are laying blankets of insulation on our unfinished walls, floors, and even ceilings (in attic or
basements). Batt insulation is made out of different materials, including:

 Fiberglass. Fiberglass is the most commonly used material batts are made out of because it is
flexible, widely available, and has high R-values.
 Cellulose; we talk about cellulose batt insulation.
 Mineral wool.
 Natural fibers.
 In limited cases, batts can be made out of plastic alternatives to fiberglass as well.
R-value of fiberglass batts is very high. You are looking at anywhere from R-2.9 to R-3.8 per inch of
different types of batt insulation. High-density batts with compressed fiberglass can reach R-values as
high as R-4.3.

That means that standard sizes of insulation batts have an extremely high overall R-value:

 2×4 inch walls can hold batts with R-13 or even R-15 values.
 2×6 inch walls can hold batts with R-19 or R-21 values.
We have batt insulation with or without facing. Facing is basically an aluminum foil layer (also kraft paper,
or vinyl) that covers the batts. These facing can work as air barriers, radiant barriers (we cover radiant
barriers in #6 type below), or vapor barriers.

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Pretty much everybody is familiar with batt insulation. The key advantage of this type of insulation is that
you can install it yourself (DIY insulation) and it’s pretty cheap compared to other types of insulation.

Insulation Type 2: Concrete Block Insulation

If you want to build a high R-value house insulation, you usually start with concrete block insulation. As
with any concrete blocks, these ones are used to build the house foundation and walls. Construction-wise,
however, you may determine that the cores of some concrete blocks don’t need to provide additional
support.

In that case, you can use concrete blocks that are filled with insulation material; thereby raising the overall
wall and foundation R-values during construction.

Material-wise, there are two types of these insulating concrete blocks:

 Polystyrene bead concrete blocks. In this type, polystyrene beads are incorporated into existing
blocks. These are high R-value concrete blocks.
 Rigid foam rigid blocks. Here we use rigid foam inserts into various concrete blocks with empty
cores. Be aware that the rigid foam is inserted into existing blocks; you usually can’t buy concrete
blocks that already have rigid foam inserted.
 Concrete blocks with wood chips. Adding wood chips into cores increases the R-value of
concrete blocks. These wood chip-filled blocks are stacked one on top of the other without the use
of mortar. In construction terms, we call this ‘dry stacking’.

Concrete blocks can be shaped with a simple saw and used pretty much as
normal concrete blocks.
As with most concrete blocks, we have to be aware of the negative effects moisture and insects can have.

Of the precast high R-value blocks, you can either get:

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 Autoclaved aerated concrete blocks (AAC). AAC are made out of high-silica sand. By volume,
these concrete blocks are 80% air; extremely useful for insulation.
 Autoclaved cellular concrete blocks (ACC). ACC are made out of fly ash; a material that is used
when burning coal.
As about 80% of the total volume of the blocks is air, you can imagine these concrete blocks are very light.
They are quite easy to handle, you can shape them with a regular saw to fit the building requirements.

Overall, these concrete insulation blocks can have up to 10x higher R-value than regular concrete.

Insulation Type 3: Rigid Foam Or Foam Boards

Rigid foam boards are perfect to put on top of existing walls, ceilings, or floors. They are basically big
thick panels with very high R-values that you can use pretty much anywhere, including:

 Outer walls as exterior wall sheathing. You can wrap foundation walls with foam boards to
increase the R-value of foundation and basements.
 Inner walls as interior wall sheathing. Example: Rigid foam is one of the best types of insulation
to insulate basement walls.
 Low-sloped ceilings.
 Attic inner walls. Attics are notoriously badly insulated. In order to increase the R-values, placing
a foam board on the inner attic wall is a very effective solution.

Rigid foam consists of very small air pockets that provide for exceptionally
high R-values.
These foam boards have an extremely high thermal resistance. Some of the high-density foams can reach
an R-value of R-8 per inch. That is about twice as much as other comparable insulation type materials, like
batts or foamed-in-place insulation. Example: If you were to use 5-inch rigid foam, you are already
looking at the R-40 insulation value.

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This is because of the insulation materials rigid foam is made out of. They include:

 Polystyrene.
 Polyiso (also known as ISO or polyisocyanurate).
 Polyurethane.
Insulation Type 4: Insulating Concrete Walls Forms (ICFs)

These are, in essence, poured concrete walls that can add up to R-20 insulation value to the walls
themselves. Basically, standard walls don’t really provide that much insulation. That’s why these high
thermal resistance concrete walls are used in order to prop up R-values and lower heating and air
conditioning costs.

At its core, these wall forms are made out of several foam boards, placed inside the concrete wall forms.
You connect these high R-value boards with plastic ties. There is a drawback to using these forms,
however; you might imagine that they don’t have the same high structural properties as standard
concrete blocks.

In order to improve the strength-per-weight ratio, steel is added to ICFs to

improve its structural properties.
In order to increase the structural properties, steel rods are added into these forms before the concrete is
poured over the. In such a way, we get:

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 High R-value walls that decrease our heating and AC costs.
 Strong walls that can support our house.
Because the basis of these wall forms are foam boards, made out of polystyrene, polyiso, or other
insulating materials, there is a danger that we will get high relative humidity there and insects. To prevent
this from happening, some insulating concrete wall forms are pre-emptively treated with insecticides.

Insecticide treatment, coupled with waterproofing methods to keep the moisture out, are adequate
measures that keep the wall forms from rooting from the inside out.

Insulation Type 5: Blown-In Insulation And Loose-Fill Insulation

The more insulation, the better is usually the rule. That’s why we build houses with insulation in mind.
However, there are empty air pockets that can either stay empty (and provide no insulation) or be filled
with insulation (providing additional R-values).

Here is where the loose-fill insulation type comes in. This type of insulation is basically blown-in (using a
blowing machine) to fill any empty space and thereby utilize it for insulation.

Loose-fill insulation is incredibly versatile because you can use it pretty much anywhere:

 Attics. Blown-in insulation is the best insulation for attics because you usually have floor joists,
empty nooks, and crannies into which you can easily fill insulation.
 Hard-to-reach spaces. You can’t use rigid foam boards in smaller spaces between walls, for
example. Blown-in insulation comes in handy in these situations.
 Spaces with difficult shapes. Again, boards and batts need a horizontal surface area in order to
be adequately installed. With loose-fill insulation, you can use it as a loose alternative to batts, for
example.

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Blown-in insulation is one of the best types of insulation to use in attics.

Materials loose-fill insulation is made out of are pretty much any small particles with high thermal
resistance like fiber (fiberglass, cellulose), foam, or mineral wool. Here are some examples of materials
and their constitution:

 Cellulose loose-fill insulation. Much of the cellulose particles used in blown-in insulation are, in
fact, made out of old newspapers.
 Fiberglass loose-fill insulation. For blown-in insulation, fiberglass containing anywhere from
40% to 60% of recycled glass is used.
 Mineral wool loose-fill insulation. This is rock wool or slag wool that is usually made out
(mostly) of recycled wool.
 Polystyrene loose-fill insulation. Polystyrene is mainly used for rigid foam or boards. If you cut
them down into small particles, you get a very effective blown-in insulation material.
Given there are many different types of blown-in insulation, the R-values also vary quite a lot. In general,
we cite that loose-fill insulation has an R-value of R-2.2 to R-3.8. For the exact R-value, you should check
the packaging of loose-fill insulation. Manufacturers are federally obligated to label the exact R-value of
the insulation material on the packaging.

In the case of loose-fill insulation, this is especially important because the R-value per inch cannot be
extrapolated with this type of insulation. Example: If you have a cellulose loose-fill insulation with an R-
value of R-3 per inch, that doesn’t mean 4 inches thick cellulose insulation will have an R-value of R-12.

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This is primarily because the more loose-fill insulation you use, the denser it gets (due to its own weight).
That means that a 4-inch thick cellulose loose-fill will have an R-value greater than R-12 but you will also
have to use more than 4 times as much material as you would for a 1-inch thick loose-fill.

We talk about initial thickness and settled thickness because R-value per inch is changing with the
thickness of loose-fill insulation.

Insulation Type 6: Radiant Barrier Insulation

A radiant barrier is a specific type of insulation. We don’t have R-values here because we don’t use a
radiant barrier to reduce heat conduction. We use a radiant barrier to significantly reduce radiant heat;
that is heat generated by radiation (essentially, this is light).

Example: When you live a car in the sun, you will find that the car is hot. The energy that heated up your
car is, primarily, solar radiation.

The purpose here is to reflect as much light (primarily sunlight) away from your home. That’s why we
usually use aluminum foil over foam boards or kraft paper to radiate the heat away from your house.

Aluminum foil is a cheap and effective radiant barrier material.

These radiant barriers are best used where there is most sunlight, including:

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 Attics. Attics are usually the main victims of radiant heating since they are located on top of a
house and get a lot of sun exposure. A radiant barrier installed in the attic can reduce air
conditioning costs by up to 5-10%.
 Unfinished walls. Sunshine on a wall with no radiant barrier can heat a house, even if you have
R-40 insulation. If you were to use a radiant barrier, much of the radiation energy from the sun can
be reflected away from your house.
 Ceilings.
 Floors.
 Garages. Garages usually have sub-par insulation and are exposed to the sun. The simple way to
cool a garage in the summer is to use a radiant barrier in order to shield the attached garage from
direct sun exposure.
It needs to be said that radiant barriers are mostly relevant for houses in hot climates. If you live in
New York, you probably won’t reduce AC costs significantly enough to justify the cost of installing a
radiant barrier.

If you live in Dallas, Miami, Or California, for example, and have an attic, a radiant barrier can be a very
cost-effective way to cut the AC costs in the summer. If you have air cooling ducts running through the
attic, the addition of a radiant barrier can reduce the AC costs by as much as 10% in hot climates.

Note: Installing a radiant barrier in cold climates isn’t financially viable. Yes, you may decrease AC costs by
a couple of percent, but the radiation from the sun also warms your house in the winter. If you install a
radiant barrier, you might have to pay more for heating than you save for air conditioning. That’s why
thermal insulation is a better choice for colder climates.

Insulation Type 7: Rigid Fiber Board Insulation

This is a special HVAC insulation, mostly used for insulating ductwork. As you might imagine, the air in
the ducts can be either cold (air conditioning in the summer) or hot (heating in the winter). Adequately
insulating ductwork can significantly increase the effectiveness of heating/cooling.

Rigid fiber boards are made out of:

 Fiberglass. These are fiberglass rigid boards.

 Mineral wool. These are mineral wool rigid boards.

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Example of a rigid fiber board made out of fiberglass.

To insulate HVAC ductworks, you use prefabricated boards. These have thicknesses from 1 inch to about
2.5 inches. Basically, you have to wrap the exterior duct walls with rigid fiber boards. Given that a typical
R-value of rigid fiber boards is about R-5.4 per inch of thickness, the thickest 2.5-inch board has can
have an R-value of R-13.5.

These boards are mounted with weld pins and secured with clips or washers. On top of the boards, you
can add insulating cement, waterproof mastic, or other materials for additional insulation.

As we have said, this is a specialized type of insulation that gets overlooked quite easily. Nonetheless,
pretty much everybody understands that is useful to keep ductwork insulated due to the high difference
in temperature between air ducts and the surrounding environment.

Insulation Type 8: Sprayed-Foam Insulation Or Foamed-In-Place Insulation

Sprayed foam is one of the most useful insulation types. It comes from small spray cans to big
construction-size foamed-in-place machines. Basically, these spray foams consist of liquid foam that
expands and fills in the gaps in walls, ceilings, basements, attics, you name it. It is incredibly versatile and
can be used in pretty much any part of the construction phase, and even after that.

Smaller spray cans come especially handy when you have to do small DIY jobs that do a significant
positive impact. These include:

 Using spray foam around doors. The area around the doors conducts heat very well. That’s why
it needs to be insulated very well.
 Spraying around windows. Windows are in many cases the part of the house where we use the
most heat.

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 Insulating vents with spray foam.
In bigger jobs, the sprayed foam can be blown into large walls, onto attic surfaces, and on top of floors. If
you want to insulate an attic or basement, the foamed-in-place insulation is the quickest and one of the
most efficient ways to do it.

Bigger jobs require professional help and a foamed-in-place spray machine.

If you have ever used a sprayed foam, you know that it expands quickly, and it’s easy to cut, trim, or even
paint over.

There are two main types of foamed-in-place insulation foam, namely:

1. Open-cell spray foams. These are simple polyurethane foams, filled with air. They are of lower
density and have lower R-values. A typical open-cell spray foam will have an R-value of R-3.7 per
inch of thickness. Open-cell spray is cheaper than closed-cell spray.
2. Closed-cell spray foams. These are also made out of polyurethane foams. They consist of high-
density cells; these cells are closed and contain a gas that helps them to expand into any space
surrounding the spray foam. Because closed cells are more densely packed, they have a higher R-
value than open-cell foams. Typically, closed-cell spray foam will have an R-value of at least R-4
per inch of thickness but you can also find high R-value closed-cell foam sprays with up to R-6.5
per inch insulation value. They are more expensive than open-cell foams, however.
Which one is better: Open-cell foam or closed-cell foam?

When you compare open-cell foam vs closed-cell foam, you will likely have to compare:

 R-values. Closed cells have about 50% higher R-value than open cells.

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 Price. Open cells can be anywhere from 10% to 70% cheaper than closed cells.
A key advantage of closed-cell foam compared to open-cell foam is water resistance. That’s why if you
are trying to insulate spaces that are usually moist like basements, you are always recommended to
choose closed-cell spray foam instead of open-cell spray foam.

Because it can be sprayed in place pretty much anywhere and has a very high R-value per inch, this type
of insulation is especially useful in colder climates. For installation, you can do DIY for smaller jobs. For
bigger jobs, you will need insulation professionals.

Insulation Type 9: Structural Insulated Panels (SIPs)

Structural insulated panels are used during the construction phase. They are usually shipped from the
factory to the construction site; they are prefabricated. Basically, SIPs are insulation-focused building
materials that can reduce heating and AC costs by as much as 14%, according to the US Department Of
Energy.

Using SIPs, you can build pretty much any part of the house, including:

 Walls.
 Ceilings.
 Floors.
 Roofs.

Structural insulated panels used as walls, ceilings, and floors.

In essence, SIPs consist of layers of foam boards squeezed together by an oriented strand board on either
side. You can easily get SIPs with facing on the interior side, exterior side, or both. Foam boards can be
made out of polystyrene or polyiso foam.

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Obviously, SIPs have a very high R-value for building materials. A typical R-value per inch for structural
insulated panels is about R-3 per inch. You would use 4-inch or 8-inch boards; with a total insulation R-
value of R-12 or R-24, respectively.

This is not its only useful quality. Namely, for an insulation type, structural insulated panels:

 Have a very high strength-to-weight ratio. Hence the word “structural” is justifiably used here.
If you compare structural insulation panels to concrete block insulation, you will see that you don’t
need steel reinforcements here due to an amply high strength-to-weight ratio.
 Provide for a quieter home. The SIPs are very airtight, and thereby provide sound insulation as
well.
1. Oil-Based Paint
The major advantage of oil-based paint is that it can be used on virtually any
surface. It is also highly commended for its rich finish and incredible durability.
Sometimes referred to as solvent-based, these paints are the ideal choice if
you’re looking for something that is both durable and reliable. Fortunately, oil-
based paints can also be purchased at a relatively reasonable price as well. As
a result, this paint is one of the most common types seen in people’s homes.
2. Water-Based Paint
Most wall paint on the market today is water-based, primarily due to its ease of
use. Although it’s not as long-lasting or resilient as oil-based varieties, many
choose this type of paint because it dries significantly faster. When you’re trying
to perform a quick paint job, water-based paints are the way to go. In fact,
using water-based paints on the interior of your home will allow you to achieve
several coats in a single day.
3. Latex Paint
When compared to oil-based paints, latex paints are easier to clean up and
perform better on your walls. They are named “latex” because they used to
have a rubber base. However, it’s important to understand that latex paints are
now made using a water-soluble base, built on acrylics and vinyl. As a result, like
traditional water-based paints, latex paints can be easily cleaned up with water
and mild soap. Since this type of paint is incredibly durable, it is the ideal choice
for most exterior painting projects.
Generally speaking, there are three different types of latex paints to choose
from:
Vinyl-Acrylic: This is the least expensive of the three and is most suitable for
interior walls.
100% Acrylic: These paints are the highest performance option, as they retain
color and withstand abrasion incredibly well.
Alkyd-Modified Latex: This type of latex paint is great for exterior jobs, especially
siding that is susceptible to peeling, flaking, or chalking.

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Types of Paint by Finish
Paint can also be categorized based on finish and different paint finishes have
their own individual advantages and best uses. How bright or shiny that you
want the space to be is what will help determine which paint finish, or sheen, to
use in a particular room.
1. Flat Paint
Flat paints have the least amount of shine when compared to all other paint
finishes. However, they typically offer the most coverage and require fewer
coats to conceal imperfections, such as nail holes. These paints are not
reflective, have little to no texture, and won’t give you much of a vibrant look.
They are also the least durable finish available.
2. Matte Paint

Matte paint, on the other hand, is slightly glossier than its flat counterpart. In fact,
many often use the two terms interchangeably when describing paint finishes.
However, it’s important to understand that there are slight differences between
flat and matte paints.
3. Eggshell Paint
When trying to understand eggshell paint finish, think about the low sheen of an
actual eggshell. It is a step up from matte paint, providing a low luster and
smooth, soft finish which works great for decorative finishes. The major
advantage of eggshell paints is the fact that they are relatively durable.
4. Satin Paint
The next step up from eggshell, satin paint offers more of a sheen and creates a
velvety, smooth appearance when applied to your walls. It also can be washed
easily, but should not be roughly scrubbed. Overall, satin paint is pretty similar to
eggshell with minor differences between the two. For example, it does have
more gloss to it but is often still flat enough to suit many people’s needs.
5. Semi-Gloss Paint
This is when we start to get into the glossiest of the paint styles. Even more
reflective than satin paint, semi-gloss offers a smooth sheen, and silky, sleek
appearance. If you’re looking for a paint that’s going to visually stand out, semi-
gloss is an excellent choice. It’s also incredibly durable and holds up to tough
scrubbing and has a high resistance to moisture.

6. High-Gloss Paint
Rounding out our list of paints categorized by finish is high-gloss paint, the
glossiest of the bunch. This type of pain is very shiny, resistant to stain, and
incredibly scrubbable. It’s the ideal choice for many spaces in your home,
including bathroom kitchens, doors, trim, cabinets, and even backsplash, as you
can easily clean fingerprints and food splatter off of the finish. High-gloss paint

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also works well on staircase railings and banisters and offers instant curb appeal
to exterior applications such as window casings and shutters.

ADHESIVES:

Types of Adhesives

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ISO 9001:2015 CERTIFIED
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1. Hot Melt:
Hot melt is a type of thermoplastic polymer adhesive. Thermoplastic polymer adhesives are in a solid state at
room temperature. During the application process , they are liquified by heating to be applied as an adhesive.
Hot melt adhesives are used for manufacturing and packaging purposes in a wide array of industries due to
their superior bonding strength, versatility and setting time. They are also eco-friendly, safe and have a longer
shelf life.
Different hot melt adhesives might have different softening points and hardening times as per their applications.
Some of the common types of hot melt adhesives are polyurethane, metallocene, EVA hot melt, and
polyethene hot melt adhesives.
Let’s talk about reactive hot melt adhesives, which are different from hot melt adhesives. Reactive hot melt
adhesives, once applied to a surface and cured, will not be able to melt again as they generate additional
chemical bonds during the curing process. This makes reactive hot melt adhesives a better choice than simple
hot melt adhesives as they have stronger adherence. Reactive hot melt or RHM are high-quality
adhesives also known for their heightened resistance to moisture, and other chemicals with higher thermal
stability.

2. Thermosetting:
Thermosetting adhesives are materials which cannot be re-melted after they have cured. Thermosetting
adhesives are usually made of two parts, namely, the resin and hardener. However one-part forms can also be
found.
There are various types of thermosetting grades such as:

 Phenolics
 Epoxies
 Polyesters
 Polyurethanes
 Silicones

Out of these, epoxy thermosetting resins are the most commonly used in various industries such as electronics
and electrical, oil and chemical, automotive, aerospace, optical etc. This is due to their excellent resistance to
heat and harsh chemicals and superior mechanical bonding properties.

3. Pressure Sensitive:
Pressure-sensitive adhesives are low-modulus elastomers which means they can be easily taken apart, but
are the best choice for light usage. Pressure-sensitive adhesives can be easily found in tapes, bandages,
sticky notes, etc. Pressure sensitive adhesives are non-structural adhesives which are not suitable for high-
pressure industrial applications. However, they can be used for lighter and thinner material surfaces for which
strong adhesives are not suitable. Pressure sensitive adhesives are also cheaper as compared to other
adhesive materials and can be found more easily.

4. Contact Adhesive:
Contact adhesives are generally used to create strong mechanical bonds by applying adhesive to both
surfaces that are supposed to be bonded together. Contact adhesives are also elastomeric which means the
polymers used in the adhesives have rubber-like properties which helps them stay in shape. This gives contact
adhesives excellent flexibility and mechanical strength. These adhesives are commonly used in the automotive
industry, construction, aerospace and OEM for sealing and coating. They can also be found in rubber cement
or countertop laminates. Contact adhesives are ideal for applications which require stability and durability.

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ISO 9001:2015 CERTIFIED
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Adhesive Applications In Various
Industries
1. Bonding:
Bonding is a process in which two surfaces are practically joined together with the help of a suitable adhesive,
such as epoxy adhesives. Adhesives are used for bonding materials in various industries, such as electronics,
medical, food, optical, chemical and oil and gas industries to bond a range of metals, ceramics, glass, plastics,
rubbers and composites.

2. Sealing:
Unlike bonding which sees two surfaces fused together, sealants are ideal for closing gaps and cavities to
block fluids, dust, and dirt from either entering or getting out. Sealants are widely used in aerospace, oil and
gas, chemical, electronic, optical, automotive and specialty OEM industries.

3. Coating:
Coatings are predominantly used in aerospace, electronic conformal coating, along with some other uses in
OEM and oil & chemical industries. Industrial adhesive coatings can provide superior protection against
chemicals, dust and moisture, reduce friction, improve abrasion resistance and provide EMI/RFI shielding.

4. Potting:
Potting is an encapsulation method used in the electronics industry to cover small or large electrical
components placed inside a housing with a suitable potting material that can withstand high temperatures,
protect the circuits from moisture, dirt, dust and other harsh conditions. Potting and encapsulation are used for
electronic and microelectronic components, such as sensors, motors, coils, transformers, capacitors, switches,
connectors, power supplies, and cable harnesses.

Recommended Mixing Nozzle Sizes by Adhesive Type and Viscosity

Adhesive Type Number of Mixing Elements Needed to Properly Mix
Acrylic 8 - 10 Elements (This includes MMA's or Methyl
Methacrylates)
Epoxy 15 - 24 Elements
Polysulfide 24 - 32 Elements
Polyurethane Foam 10 - 24 Elements
Silicone 20 - 30 Elements
Urethane 24 -36 Elements

Recommended Mixing Nozzle Diameter by Material Viscosity

Material Viscosity Mixing Element Inner
Diameter Range

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Thin < 5,000cps (Thinner than Honey) 2.4 - 6.4mm (0.093 -
0.25 in)
Medium 5,000 - 50,000cps (Between Honey & Ketchup) 5.4 -
8.0mm (0.212 - 0.314 in)
Thick & Gel> 50,000cps (Thicker than Ketchup) > 9.3mm (0.366 in)

Linear Coverage of cartridges and kits:

Linear length coverage for various adhesive volumes: Generally speaking,
(using a typical mixing nozzle with a standard 2mm outlet opening) you can
expect these volume-to-length ratios:
Per 1-ml of adhesive: 1.92-inches of linear length from a 1/8-inch wide bead (or
3.84-inches of linear length from a 1/16-inch wide bead)
... and translated to standard cartridge sizes:
25mL cartridge (1/8-inch bead): About 4 Linear Feet, (1/16-inch bead): 6-8 Feet
50mL cartridge (1/8-inch bead): About 8 Linear Feet, (1/16-inch bead): 12-16
Feet
200mL cartridge (1/8-inch bead): About 32 Linear Feet, (1/16-inch bead): 48-64
Feet
400mL cartridge (1/8-inch bead): About 64 Linear Feet, (1/16-inch bead): 96-128
Feet
600mL cartridge (1/8-inch bead): About 96 Linear Feet, (1/16-inch bead): 144-
192 Feet
1500mL cartridge (1/8-inch bead): About 240 Linear Feet, (1/16-inch bead): 360-
480 Feet
Quart Kit (1/8-inch bead): About 150 Linear Feet, (1/16-inch bead): 225-300
Feet
Gallon Kit (1/8-inch wide bead): About 600 Linear Feet, (1/16-inch bead): 900-
1200 Feet
.
Surface Area Coverage of cartridges and kits:
Surface Area coverage for various adhesive volumes, in sq feet, sq inches, sq
meters, and sq centimeters: Generally speaking, (using a typical mixing nozzle
with a standard 2mm outlet opening) you can expect these volume-to-surface
area coverage measurements:
Per 1-ml of adhesive at 1/8-inch wide bead: approximately 1/2-inch of surface
area coverage
Per 1-ml of adhesive at 1/16-inch wide bead: approximately 1-inch of surface
area coverage
Per 1-ml of adhesive at 1/32-inch wide bead: approximately 2-inch of surface
area coverage

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ISO 9001:2015 CERTIFIED
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TILES:

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Cabanatuan City, Nueva Ecija, Philippines
ISO 9001:2015 CERTIFIED
COLLEGE OF ARCHITECTURE

Contact No. (0927) 4778 -392

NEUST-TSD-F003 “Transforming Communities through Science and Technology“ Email: [email protected]
Rev. 01 (10.14.19)
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 Republic of the Philippines

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Cabanatuan City, Nueva Ecija, Philippines
ISO 9001:2015 CERTIFIED
COLLEGE OF ARCHITECTURE

Contact No. (0927) 4778 -392

NEUST-TSD-F003 “Transforming Communities through Science and Technology“ Email: [email protected]
Rev. 01 (10.14.19)
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ISO 9001:2015 CERTIFIED
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GRANITE

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Cabanatuan City, Nueva Ecija, Philippines
ISO 9001:2015 CERTIFIED
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Contact No. (0927) 4778 -392

NEUST-TSD-F003 “Transforming Communities through Science and Technology“ Email: [email protected]
Rev. 01 (10.14.19)
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 Republic of the Philippines

NUEVA ECIJA UNIVERSITY OF SCIENCE AND TECHNOLOGY

Cabanatuan City, Nueva Ecija, Philippines
ISO 9001:2015 CERTIFIED
COLLEGE OF ARCHITECTURE

Contact No. (0927) 4778 -392

NEUST-TSD-F003 “Transforming Communities through Science and Technology“ Email: [email protected]
Rev. 01 (10.14.19)
www.neust.edu.ph
 Republic of the Philippines

NUEVA ECIJA UNIVERSITY OF SCIENCE AND TECHNOLOGY

Cabanatuan City, Nueva Ecija, Philippines
ISO 9001:2015 CERTIFIED
COLLEGE OF ARCHITECTURE

Contact No. (0927) 4778 -392

NEUST-TSD-F003 “Transforming Communities through Science and Technology“ Email: [email protected]
Rev. 01 (10.14.19)
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 Republic of the Philippines

NUEVA ECIJA UNIVERSITY OF SCIENCE AND TECHNOLOGY

Cabanatuan City, Nueva Ecija, Philippines
ISO 9001:2015 CERTIFIED
COLLEGE OF ARCHITECTURE

Contact No. (0927) 4778 -392

NEUST-TSD-F003 “Transforming Communities through Science and Technology“ Email: [email protected]
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 Republic of the Philippines

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ISO 9001:2015 CERTIFIED
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PIPES:

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ROOFING MATERIALS:

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Contact No. (0927) 4778 -392

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 Republic of the Philippines

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Cabanatuan City, Nueva Ecija, Philippines
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ISO 9001:2015 CERTIFIED
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WIRES:

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 Republic of the Philippines

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Contact No. (0927) 4778 -392

NEUST-TSD-F003 “Transforming Communities through Science and Technology“ Email: [email protected]
Rev. 01 (10.14.19)
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